Europa-Archive.digest.vol-ks

September 03, 2013 - September 23, 2013



      
      Craig
      
      I guess I don't understand the logic behind this setup. As I
      understand, the pip pin is there to prevent aft movement of the spars.
      So why is the pin only used on the port side and not the starboard
      side?
      
      Later on we bond a hardened steel washer to the port socket to retain
      the pip pin ball. This sounds structural to me, but I know the socket
      is nonstructural, so I am obviously missing something here.
      
      
      On Tue, Sep 3, 2013 at 4:50 AM, craig  wrote:
      >
      > I believe the only reason for opening the hole to 1 inch is so it's a neat
      > fit over the bushing in the spar itself
      > That socket is the one with the pip pin installed in it which is supposed to
      > be packed with washers so the pin doesn't move around guess the logic is you
      > would just have to pack the pin more if you remove both sides out to one
      > inch, as you say, though the consensus is that these pins are not
      > transmitting any lift load, however before the strap around the spars was
      > added, the pip pin would be stopping the end of the starboard spar moving
      > rearward under those high lift high drag scenarios that were discussed at
      > length a month or so ago by everyone when the wing is trying to move
      > forward, which is why I believe the tie bar was added. So this may be one of
      > those things that hasn't changed because it doesn't really effect anything
      > in a bad way if its not altered. So you could probably remove it if you want
      > to, the manual is quite clear the sockets are NOT structural, just a rigging
      > aid to help you get the wings on. Feel free to correct me Bud if I got this
      > all wrong
      >
      > Regards
      >
      > craig
      >
      > -----Original Message-----
      > From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
      > [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Sarangan
      > Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2013 1:38 PM
      > To: Europa List
      > Subject: Europa-List: Spar socket hole enlargement
      >
      >
      > The manual says to open up the port spar socket hole to 1" on one side
      > only, presumably the side facing the seatback. So why not the other
      > side? If the sockets are non structural, it would seem odd to sandwich
      > its plate between the bolt head and the spar bushing. What am I
      > missing here?
      >
      >
      > -----
      > No virus found in this message.
      > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
      >
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)talktalk.net>
Subject: Spar socket hole enlargement
Date: Sep 03, 2013
Hi! Andrew, The washer/washers are bedded to take up any slack on the back of the starboard spa tip and canister So contributing to retaining the Starboard spa close secured to the Port Spa. The Starboard Spar is retained close to the centre of the port spa by laying up the "cuff" surrounding the two spas in the middle . The choice of a plain main pin on the starboard side would have been to do with reducing cost but in any case since the wings fail FORWARDS it is not so vital to retain the starboard spa from migrating aft when it is close to the wing close out but it's tip will tend to be parted from its mate.. Many have purchased an additional pip pin to remove any uncertainty which pin goes where ! Hope this helps ? But spoken from a pure layman ........with two pip pins ! Regards Bob Harrison G-PTAG (Was it you who was sending me some pictures of main gear spats which are hinged to fold upwards?) -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Sarangan Sent: 03 September 2013 19:10 Subject: Re: Europa-List: Spar socket hole enlargement Craig I guess I don't understand the logic behind this setup. As I understand, the pip pin is there to prevent aft movement of the spars. So why is the pin only used on the port side and not the starboard side? Later on we bond a hardened steel washer to the port socket to retain the pip pin ball. This sounds structural to me, but I know the socket is nonstructural, so I am obviously missing something here. On Tue, Sep 3, 2013 at 4:50 AM, craig wrote: > > I believe the only reason for opening the hole to 1 inch is so it's a > neat fit over the bushing in the spar itself That socket is the one > with the pip pin installed in it which is supposed to be packed with > washers so the pin doesn't move around guess the logic is you would > just have to pack the pin more if you remove both sides out to one > inch, as you say, though the consensus is that these pins are not > transmitting any lift load, however before the strap around the spars > was added, the pip pin would be stopping the end of the starboard spar > moving rearward under those high lift high drag scenarios that were > discussed at length a month or so ago by everyone when the wing is > trying to move forward, which is why I believe the tie bar was added. > So this may be one of those things that hasn't changed because it > doesn't really effect anything in a bad way if its not altered. So you > could probably remove it if you want to, the manual is quite clear the > sockets are NOT structural, just a rigging aid to help you get the > wings on. Feel free to correct me Bud if I got this all wrong > > Regards > > craig > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andrew > Sarangan > Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2013 1:38 PM > To: Europa List > Subject: Europa-List: Spar socket hole enlargement > > --> > > The manual says to open up the port spar socket hole to 1" on one side > only, presumably the side facing the seatback. So why not the other > side? If the sockets are non structural, it would seem odd to sandwich > its plate between the bolt head and the spar bushing. What am I > missing here? > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: solid state contactors
Date: Sep 03, 2013
I'm wondering if anyone has installed or has the expertise to evaluate these: http://www.periheliondesign.com/powerlinkjr/PowerLinkJrIIIManual.pdf thanks for any insights, Fred ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Europas - as far as the eye can see!
From: "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net>
Date: Sep 03, 2013
So many Europa's, .Nice meeting you all, especially Nigel, great Chef, thanks for the Burger. Alan/Sunny Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407991#407991 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Refilling a Europa by hand
From: "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net>
Date: Sep 04, 2013
Hi All. My plan is LAA cleared for use with MOGAS. I fill it with a 28 litre plastic cann, lifting this weight of fuel to above my shoulders to fill the plan is hard work. I know Trans Air do a filler nozzle hand pump, I presume this take a lot of time squeezing the trigger to re fill.?? Has anyone used or details off , an electric inline pump that can be plugged into the aircrafts AUX power socket, I have not seen any on the market, so is it make your own,?? Regards. Alan Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408005#408005 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Refilling a Europa by hand
From: Richard Iddon <riddon(at)sent.com>
Date: Sep 04, 2013
Hi Alan. I lift my can onto a non slip pad the wing then use a battery operated fuel pump to transfer it to the tank. Search for battery operated fuel pump on Amazon or Ebay. They are a bit flimsy and not terribly fast but they work OK and you can buy one for about 15. I am on my second one in 8 years. They take a couple of D cells and the batteries last at least a full season with me. Richard Iddon. G-RIXS On 4 Sep 2013, at 15:48, Alan Carter wrote: > > Hi All. > My plan is LAA cleared for use with MOGAS. > I fill it with a 28 litre plastic cann, lifting this weight of fuel to above my shoulders to fill the plan is hard work. > I know Trans Air do a filler nozzle hand pump, I presume this take a lot of time squeezing the trigger to re fill.?? > Has anyone used or details off , an electric inline pump that can be plugged into the aircrafts AUX power socket, I have not seen any on the market, so is it make your own,?? > Regards. > Alan > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408005#408005 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Classic radiator(s) needed
From: "Richard Lamprey" <lamprey.richard(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 04, 2013
Thanks very much Philip and Paul, and also to Kevin Burns who has been in touch by email. So, thanks, good leads to follow: Best Richard Kenya Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408008#408008 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Europas - as far as the eye can see!
From: "Richard Lamprey" <lamprey.richard(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 04, 2013
Looks fantastic; the last rally I made it to was Cranfield 10 years ago (PFA days)! And my Europa has never met another Europa. Richard, Kenya Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408010#408010 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Refilling a Europa by hand
From: Alan Burrill <alanb(at)dpy01.co.uk>
Date: Sep 04, 2013
Personally I use 10 litre fuel cans which I can lift to pour into a filter funnel with a micro mesh filter. I have also seen a standard fuel pump, as in the Europa electric pump, connect to a small rechargeable lead acid cell. All mounted on a 'Sack Barrow' with a 25 litre can. Alan Sent from my iPhone On 4 Sep 2013, at 15:48, "Alan Carter" wrote: > > Hi All. > My plan is LAA cleared for use with MOGAS. > I fill it with a 28 litre plastic cann, lifting this weight of fuel to above my shoulders to fill the plan is hard work. > I know Trans Air do a filler nozzle hand pump, I presume this take a lot of time squeezing the trigger to re fill.?? > Has anyone used or details off , an electric inline pump that can be plugged into the aircrafts AUX power socket, I have not seen any on the market, so is it make your own,?? > Regards. > Alan > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408005#408005 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Refilling a Europa by hand
From: Trevpond <trevpond(at)aol.com>
Date: Sep 04, 2013
Hi Richard I have the same pump, runs on 2 A type batteries - Brilliant! Used mine for years. Regards Trev G:-LINN Sent from my iPad On 4 Sep 2013, at 16:21, Richard Iddon wrote: > > Hi Alan. > > I lift my can onto a non slip pad the wing then use a battery operated fuel pump to transfer it to the tank. Search for battery operated fuel pump on Amazon or Ebay. They are a bit flimsy and not terribly fast but they work OK and you can buy one for about 15. I am on my second one in 8 years. They take a couple of D cells and the batteries last at least a full season with me. > > Richard Iddon. G-RIXS > > On 4 Sep 2013, at 15:48, Alan Carter wrote: > >> >> Hi All. >> My plan is LAA cleared for use with MOGAS. >> I fill it with a 28 litre plastic cann, lifting this weight of fuel to above my shoulders to fill the plan is hard work. >> I know Trans Air do a filler nozzle hand pump, I presume this take a lot of time squeezing the trigger to re fill.?? >> Has anyone used or details off , an electric inline pump that can be plugged into the aircrafts AUX power socket, I have not seen any on the market, so is it make your own,?? >> Regards. >> Alan >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408005#408005 > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Refilling a Europa by hand
From: "graeme bird" <graeme(at)gdbmk.co.uk>
Date: Sep 04, 2013
I brought a hand pump for fuel and mounted it on my hangar wall, its the type with a leaver you waggle. Its quick enough but then I brought a flylight filter and found that a lot of fuel remained in the feed and out 1" pipes. So I use 20 ltr cans and find I can rest them on the side of the filter and they are ok. Its rare that I put in more than 1 or 2. Mine has the middle old position filler. -------- Graeme Bird G-UMPY Mono Classic/XS 912S/Woodcomp 3000/3W Newby: 75 hours 18 months g(at)gdbmk.co.uk Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408019#408019 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Refilling a Europa by hand
From: John Heykoop <john.heykoop(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 04, 2013
Hi all I fitted a car battery and a standard Europa fuel pump on a 'sack barrow', but filling the plane this way takes a lot longer than refueling by simply lifting the jerry can above my shoulders. There is also the hassle of having to load the barrow into the car every time I go flying. So I soon got fed up with this and now do everything the hard way. The exercise probably does me good. What I haven't been able to master is how to keep a filter funnel upright while refueling from a jerry can (my Europa is an XS). After the damn thing had fallen over a number of times, covering me and the plane with fuel I decided to do without. So far without adverse consequences - I have never found a drop of water in the fuel, and my gascolator filter is always very clean. All the same, I am uneasy about not using a filter funnel, and would be interested to know how other XS owners manage this. John Europa XS G-JHKP On 4 Sep 2013, at 18:39, Alan Burrill wrote: > > Personally I use 10 litre fuel cans which I can lift to pour into a filter funnel with a micro mesh filter. > > I have also seen a standard fuel pump, as in the Europa electric pump, connect to a small rechargeable lead acid cell. All mounted on a 'Sack Barrow' with a 25 litre can. > > Alan > > Sent from my iPhone > > On 4 Sep 2013, at 15:48, "Alan Carter" wrote: > >> >> Hi All. >> My plan is LAA cleared for use with MOGAS. >> I fill it with a 28 litre plastic cann, lifting this weight of fuel to above my shoulders to fill the plan is hard work. >> I know Trans Air do a filler nozzle hand pump, I presume this take a lot of time squeezing the trigger to re fill.?? >> Has anyone used or details off , an electric inline pump that can be plugged into the aircrafts AUX power socket, I have not seen any on the market, so is it make your own,?? >> Regards. >> Alan >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408005#408005 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: My Longest flight
From: "graeme bird" <graeme(at)gdbmk.co.uk>
Date: Sep 04, 2013
My longest single continuous flight today, 3:20 370nm, 53ltrs. Comfortable enough. Luton over Cader Idris to Bardsley Isle at the end of the Lynn Northwales, back just over Snowden. Fab. -------- Graeme Bird G-UMPY Mono Classic/XS 912S/Woodcomp 3000/3W Newby: 75 hours 18 months g(at)gdbmk.co.uk Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408021#408021 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04664_1_213.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc043901_112.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc045591_125.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc046101_186.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Karl Heindl <kheindl(at)msn.com>
Subject: Refilling a Europa by hand
Date: Sep 04, 2013
I used to use one of those cheap electric pumps=2C with a 25l can on the wi ng. But the pump eventually fell apart. They are only meant for pumping wat er=2C maybe heating oil also. I was also concerned about the motor being su rrounded by fumes.Much easier=2C quicker and safer is to have 2 or 3 of the same 25l plastic fuel cans=2C but have them only half full. Then they are easy to lift up and pour. The filter fits right into the cobra neck. I can' t remember where I bought it. Cheers=2C Karl > Hi all > > I fitted a car battery and a standard Europa fuel pump on a 'sack barrow' =2C but filling the plane this way takes a lot longer than refueling by sim ply lifting the jerry can above my shoulders. There is also the hassle of h aving to load the barrow into the car every time I go flying. So I soon got fed up with this and now do everything the hard way. The exercise probably does me good. > > What I haven't been able to master is how to keep a filter funnel upright while refueling from a jerry can (my Europa is an XS). After the damn thin g had fallen over a number of times=2C covering me and the plane with fuel I decided to do without. So far without adverse consequences - I have never found a drop of water in the fuel=2C and my gascolator filter is always ve ry clean. All the same=2C I am uneasy about not using a filter funnel=2C an d would be interested to know how other XS owners manage this. > > John > Europa XS G-JHKP > > On 4 Sep 2013=2C at 18:39=2C Alan Burrill wrote: > > > > > Personally I use 10 litre fuel cans which I can lift to pour into a fil ter funnel with a micro mesh filter. > > > > I have also seen a standard fuel pump=2C as in the Europa electric pump =2C connect to a small rechargeable lead acid cell. All mounted on a 'Sack Barrow' with a 25 litre can. > > > > Alan > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > On 4 Sep 2013=2C at 15:48=2C "Alan Carter" w rote: > > .net> > >> > >> Hi All. > >> My plan is LAA cleared for use with MOGAS. > >> I fill it with a 28 litre plastic cann=2C lifting this weight of fuel to above my shoulders to fill the plan is hard work. > >> I know Trans Air do a filler nozzle hand pump=2C I presume this take a lot of time squeezing the trigger to re fill.?? > >> Has anyone used or details off =2C an electric inline pump that can be plugged into the aircrafts AUX power socket=2C I have not seen any on the market=2C so is it make your own=2C?? > >> Regards. > >> Alan > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> Read this topic online here: > >> > >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408005#408005 > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk>
Subject: Re: Refilling a Europa by hand
Date: Sep 04, 2013
John, I have a simple funnel with the spout cut off so it is about 6 or 7cm long and with a string attached to the brim. This attaches by a half hitch to the door strut and the whole thing is nicely stable. A paint filter inside the funnel completes the set up when I am using a jerry can. I don't bother with the funnel when I am filling from an airport pump. Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ John Heykoop wrote: > > > Hi all > > I fitted a car battery and a standard Europa fuel pump >on a 'sack barrow', but filling the plane this way takes >a lot longer than refueling by simply lifting the jerry >can above my shoulders. There is also the hassle of >having to load the barrow into the car every time I go >flying. So I soon got fed up with this and now do >everything the hard way. The exercise probably does me >good. > > What I haven't been able to master is how to keep a >filter funnel upright while refueling from a jerry can >(my Europa is an XS). After the damn thing had fallen >over a number of times, covering me and the plane with >fuel I decided to do without. So far without adverse >consequences - I have never found a drop of water in the >fuel, and my gascolator filter is always very clean. All >the same, I am uneasy about not using a filter funnel, >and would be interested to know how other XS owners >manage this. > > John > Europa XS G-JHKP > > On 4 Sep 2013, at 18:39, Alan Burrill > wrote: > >> >> >> Personally I use 10 litre fuel cans which I can lift to >>pour into a filter funnel with a micro mesh filter. >> >> I have also seen a standard fuel pump, as in the Europa >>electric pump, connect to a small rechargeable lead acid >>cell. All mounted on a 'Sack Barrow' with a 25 litre can. >> >> Alan >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On 4 Sep 2013, at 15:48, "Alan Carter" >> wrote: >> >>> >>> >>> Hi All. >>> My plan is LAA cleared for use with MOGAS. >>> I fill it with a 28 litre plastic cann, lifting this >>>weight of fuel to above my shoulders to fill the plan is >>>hard work. >>> I know Trans Air do a filler nozzle hand pump, I presume >>>this take a lot of time squeezing the trigger to re >>>fill.?? >>> Has anyone used or details off , an electric inline pump >>>that can be plugged into the aircrafts AUX power socket, >>>I have not seen any on the market, so is it make your >>>own,?? >>> Regards. >>> Alan >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Read this topic online here: >>> >>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408005#408005 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > >Un/Subscription, >Forums! >Admin. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Refilling a Europa by hand
From: Bob Hitchcock <robert.hitchcock(at)virgin.net>
Date: Sep 04, 2013
Hi All I have used the same Polarn pump for the last four years. No battery needed a nd allows precise control directly from the jerry can that I place on a stoo l. Can't remember where I purchased from. This link has a good picture. http://www.absoluteflying.co.uk/Jerry_Can_Fuel_Pump/cat933351_842633.aspx Your hand is left free to guide the filler tube into the filter. Easy and safe. Regards Bob On 4 Sep 2013, at 21:27, John Heykoop wrote: > > Hi all > > I fitted a car battery and a standard Europa fuel pump on a 'sack barrow', but filling the plane this way takes a lot longer than refueling by simply l ifting the jerry can above my shoulders. There is also the hassle of having t o load the barrow into the car every time I go flying. So I soon got fed up w ith this and now do everything the hard way. The exercise probably does me g ood. > > What I haven't been able to master is how to keep a filter funnel upright w hile refueling from a jerry can (my Europa is an XS). After the damn thing h ad fallen over a number of times, covering me and the plane with fuel I deci ded to do without. So far without adverse consequences - I have never found a drop of water in the fuel, and my gascolator filter is always very clean. A ll the same, I am uneasy about not using a filter funnel, and would be inter ested to know how other XS owners manage this. > > John > Europa XS G-JHKP > > On 4 Sep 2013, at 18:39, Alan Burrill wrote: > >> >> Personally I use 10 litre fuel cans which I can lift to pour into a filte r funnel with a micro mesh filter. >> >> I have also seen a standard fuel pump, as in the Europa electric pump, co nnect to a small rechargeable lead acid cell. All mounted on a 'Sack Barrow' with a 25 litre can. >> >> Alan >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On 4 Sep 2013, at 15:48, "Alan Carter" wrote: >> et> >>> >>> Hi All. >>> My plan is LAA cleared for use with MOGAS. >>> I fill it with a 28 litre plastic cann, lifting this weight of fuel to a bove my shoulders to fill the plan is hard work. >>> I know Trans Air do a filler nozzle hand pump, I presume this take a lot of time squeezing the trigger to re fill.?? >>> Has anyone used or details off , an electric inline pump that can be plu gged into the aircrafts AUX power socket, I have not seen any on the market, so is it make your own,?? >>> Regards. >>> Alan >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Read this topic online here: >>> >>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408005#408005 > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Refilling a Europa by hand
From: Sky Email <richard.churchill-coleman(at)sky.com>
Date: Sep 04, 2013
I can second Bob's pump choice - available from Demon Tweeks online - I use i t to fuel my gyro with a high tank inlet (pending actually building my XS mo no), the pump is designed for rally car fuelling in the field and can pump w ith the jerry can at ground level or syphon if the can is close to the same l evel as the tank inlet. Regards Richard CC On 4 Sep 2013, at 22:33, Bob Hitchcock wrote: > Hi All > > I have used the same Polarn pump for the last four years. No battery neede d and allows precise control directly from the jerry can that I place on a s tool. Can't remember where I purchased from. This link has a good picture. > > http://www.absoluteflying.co.uk/Jerry_Can_Fuel_Pump/cat933351_842633.aspx > > > Your hand is left free to guide the filler tube into the filter. > > Easy and safe. > > > Regards > > Bob > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Refilling a Europa by hand
From: Kelvin Cobb <kelvin.cobb(at)icloud.com>
Date: Sep 05, 2013
I am set up similar to David, I have the smallest 'Mr Funnel' and use a small length of para cord to tie to passenger lift strut.... Very secure. At the hangar I have a 'waggle side to side handled pump', but on trips just carry a plastic Jerry and my funnel and do the filling with good old fashioned brute force.... Hmmm, as I'm not getting any younger, perhaps one of those battery pump thingies might be worth a look :-) Sent from my iPad On 4 Sep 2013, at 22:05, David Joyce wrote: > > John, I have a simple funnel with the spout cut off so it is about 6 or 7cm long and with a string attached to the brim. This attaches by a half hitch to the door strut and the whole thing is nicely stable. A paint filter inside the funnel completes the set up when I am using a jerry can. I don't bother with the funnel when I am filling from an airport pump. Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ > > > John Heykoop wrote: >> Hi all >> I fitted a car battery and a standard Europa fuel pump on a 'sack barrow', but filling the plane this way takes a lot longer than refueling by simply lifting the jerry can above my shoulders. There is also the hassle of having to load the barrow into the car every time I go flying. So I soon got fed up with this and now do everything the hard way. The exercise probably does me good. >> What I haven't been able to master is how to keep a filter funnel upright while refueling from a jerry can (my Europa is an XS). After the damn thing had fallen over a number of times, covering me and the plane with fuel I decided to do without. So far without adverse consequences - I have never found a drop of water in the fuel, and my gascolator filter is always very clean. All the same, I am uneasy about not using a filter funnel, and would be interested to know how other XS owners manage this. >> John >> Europa XS G-JHKP >> On 4 Sep 2013, at 18:39, Alan Burrill wrote: >>> Personally I use 10 litre fuel cans which I can lift to pour into a filter funnel with a micro mesh filter. I have also seen a standard fuel pump, as in the Europa electric pump, connect to a small rechargeable lead acid cell. All mounted on a 'Sack Barrow' with a 25 litre can. Alan >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> On 4 Sep 2013, at 15:48, "Alan Carter" wrote: >>>> Hi All. >>>> My plan is LAA cleared for use with MOGAS. >>>> I fill it with a 28 litre plastic cann, lifting this weight of fuel to above my shoulders to fill the plan is hard work. >>>> I know Trans Air do a filler nozzle hand pump, I presume this take a lot of time squeezing the trigger to re fill.?? >>>> Has anyone used or details off , an electric inline pump that can be plugged into the aircrafts AUX power socket, I have not seen any on the market, so is it make your own,?? >>>> Regards. >>>> Alan >>>> Read this topic online here: >>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408005#408005 >> Un/Subscription, >> Forums! >> Admin. > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Refilling a Europa by hand
From: roddyeuropa(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 05, 2013
I have used a polarn oump for a number of years. The pump attaches to the t op of a jerry can and you use a hand air pump to pressurize the jerry can. Integral tube goes through jerry can fitting from base of can to europa fil ler. Takes quite a lot of pumping to get the fuel transferred - probably 1 - 2 mins per 20l can.See here: http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/fuel-containers-funnels/demon-twee ks-polarn-pump Needs an extension to reach the filler from jerry can on the ground. Roddy Kesterton G-IKRK -----Original Message----- From: Alan Carter <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net> Sent: Wed, 4 Sep 2013 16:10 Subject: Europa-List: Refilling a Europa by hand Hi All. My plan is LAA cleared for use with MOGAS. I fill it with a 28 litre plastic cann, lifting this weight of fuel to abov e my shoulders to fill the plan is hard work. I know Trans Air do a filler nozzle hand pump, I presume this take a lot of time squeezing the trigger to re fill.?? Has anyone used or details off , an electric inline pump that can be plugge d into the aircrafts AUX power socket, I have not seen any on the market, so is it make your own,?? Regards. Alan Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408005#408005 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 05, 2013
From: danny shepherd <danny(at)mcwalterscafe.co.uk>
Subject: hose replacement
Hi All, I'll be trailing my a/c back to my hangar ( big shed ) soon for some maintenance. the five year hose replacement is due early 2014 so I thought I'd kill two birds with one stone and carry out the hose replacement at the same time. now a couple of questions, I'd like to use the same spring clips on the water hoses that Rotax use. so where can I get them and the tool needed to do the job ? secondly does anyone supply a full kit to change all the hoes fuel/oil/ water. or do I have to order them seperately? Cheers Danny G-c.e.r.i ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Davies" <brian.davies(at)clara.co.uk>
Subject: Refilling a Europa by hand
Date: Sep 05, 2013
". I don't bother with the funnel when I am filling from an > airport pump." David, you might be interested in the following news item;- Contaminated fuel caused Cathay A330 incident By: <http://www.flightglobal.com/landingpage/mavis%20toh.html> MAVIS TOH SINGAPORE 3 hours ago * Print Fuel contamination has been confirmed as the cause of a double engine malfunction on a Cathay Pacific Airbus A330-300 on approach to Hong Kong International airport (HKIA) in 2010. In a final report released on 4 September, Hong Kong's Civil Aviation Department (CAD) says that 24.4t of contaminated fuel was uplifed into the aircraft at Surabaya's Juanda International airport. This caused "stiction" - static friction - in the fuel metering unit of both engines, leading to the total seizure of these components and the loss of thrust controls of the aircraft during approach to HKIA. It found that though the aircraft was uplifed with the proper grade of fuel, it was contaminated with super absorbent polymer (SAP) spheres. During the flight, some SAP spheres were trapped in the fuel metering unit on both engines, causing stiction in the unit that resulted in engine pressure ratio fluctuations. Moral- don't trust airport fuel pumps. I still use my Mr Funnel even when I uplift from aviation pumps. Regards Brian From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of roddyeuropa(at)aol.com Sent: 05 September 2013 09:39 Subject: Re: Europa-List: Refilling a Europa by hand I have used a polarn oump for a number of years. The pump attaches to the top of a jerry can and you use a hand air pump to pressurize the jerry can. Integral tube goes through jerry can fitting from base of can to europa filler. Takes quite a lot of pumping to get the fuel transferred - probably 1 - 2 mins per 20l can.See here: http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/fuel-containers-funnels/demon-tweek s-polarn-pump Needs an extension to reach the filler from jerry can on the ground. Roddy Kesterton G-IKRK -----Original Message----- From: Alan Carter <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net> Sent: Wed, 4 Sep 2013 16:10 Subject: Europa-List: Refilling a Europa by hand Hi All. My plan is LAA cleared for use with MOGAS. I fill it with a 28 litre plastic cann, lifting this weight of fuel to above my shoulders to fill the plan is hard work. I know Trans Air do a filler nozzle hand pump, I presume this take a lot of time squeezing the trigger to re fill.?? Has anyone used or details off , an electric inline pump that can be plugged into the aircrafts AUX power socket, I have not seen any on the market, so is it make your own,?? Regards. Alan Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408005#408005 arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List tp://forums.matronics.com _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Pattinson" <carl(at)flyers.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: hose replacement
Date: Sep 05, 2013
Hi Danny, Conair sports will supply a complete 5 yr rubber replacement kit - excluding the Europa fuel lines which you will need to source separately. Its not cheap but if looking for a one stop solution this is the way to go. http://www.ekmpowershop2.com/ekmps/shops/conairsports/5-year-standard-replac ement-package-912ul--912uls-engines-only-359-p.asp The list price is about 500 but If you source the items separately you can get the job done at half the cost. The carb parts (eg: diaphragms) are standard Bing as used on BMW motorcycles. I can find two stockists in the uk - http://www.motobins.co.uk/ \ and http://www.motorworks.co.uk/ . If you source the diaphragms from these suppliers make sure they are the genuine Bing ones as they also sell cheaper nitrile ones which are claimed to be superior (but arent - for reasons I won't go into). Kevin Dilks may be able to help you with some parts. He is a Rotax engineer but NOT the official UK agent. He has worked for Rotax in Austria and knows where they source most of their components from. I believe he would also be able to supply a 5 yr kit but have no idea regarding cost. Kevin Dilks E-mail: Kevindilks912(at)btinternet.com Telephone: 0116 288 5643 Mobile Phone Number: 07564 192 942 Hope this helps. Carl Pattinson. G-LABS -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of danny shepherd Sent: 05 September 2013 09:50 Subject: Europa-List: hose replacement --> Hi All, I'll be trailing my a/c back to my hangar ( big shed ) soon for some maintenance. the five year hose replacement is due early 2014 so I thought I'd kill two birds with one stone and carry out the hose replacement at the same time. now a couple of questions, I'd like to use the same spring clips on the water hoses that Rotax use. so where can I get them and the tool needed to do the job ? secondly does anyone supply a full kit to change all the hoes fuel/oil/ water. or do I have to order them seperately? Cheers Danny G-c.e.r.i ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 05, 2013
From: GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Refilling a Europa by hand
Brian=0AI had a similar thought but had no evidence. =0AGraham=0A=0A=0A=0A =0A________________________________=0A From: Brian Davies <brian.davies@cla ra.co.uk>=0ATo: europa-list(at)matronics.com =0ASent: Thursday, 5 September 20 13, 9:55=0ASubject: RE: Europa-List: Refilling a Europa by hand=0A =0A=0A =0A". I don't bother with the funnel when I am filling from an =0A> airport pump."=0A-=0ADavid, you might be interested in the following news item;- =0A-=0AContaminated fuel caused Cathay A330 incident=0ABy:---MAVIS TOH-SINGAPORE=0A3 hours ago-=0A* Print=0AFuel contamination has been confirmed as the cause of a double engine malfunction on a-Cathay Pacifi c-Airbus A330-300 on approach to-Hong Kong International-airport (HKI A) in 2010.=0AIn a final report released on 4 September, Hong Kong's Civil Aviation Department (CAD) says that 24.4t of contaminated fuel was uplifed into the aircraft at Surabaya's Juanda International airport. This caused " stiction" - static friction - in the fuel metering unit of both engines, le ading to the total seizure of these components and the loss of thrust contr ols of the aircraft during approach to HKIA.=0AIt found that though the air craft was uplifed with the proper grade of fuel, it was contaminated with s uper absorbent polymer (SAP) spheres. During the flight, some-SAP-spher es were trapped in the fuel metering unit on both engines, causing stiction in the unit that resulted in engine pressure ratio fluctuations.=0A-=0A -=0AMoral- don't trust airport fuel pumps.- I still use my Mr Funnel ev en when I uplift from aviation pumps.=0A-=0ARegards=0A-=0ABrian=0A- =0AFrom:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-se rver(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of roddyeuropa(at)aol.com=0ASent: 05 September 2 013 09:39=0ATo: europa-list(at)matronics.com=0ASubject: Re: Europa-List: Refil ling a Europa by hand=0A-=0AI have used a polarn oump for a number of yea rs. The pump attaches to the top of a jerry can and you use a hand air pump to pressurize the jerry can. Integral tube goes through jerry can fitting from base of can to europa filler. Takes quite a lot of pumping to get the fuel transferred - probably 1 - 2 mins per 20l can.See here:- =0Ahttp://w ww.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/fuel-containers-funnels/demon-tweeks-polar n-pump=0ANeeds an extension to reach the filler from jerry can on the groun d.-=0ARoddy Kesterton=0AG-IKRK=0A-=0A-----Original Message-----=0AFrom: Alan Carter =0ATo: europa-list =0ASent: Wed, 4 Sep 2013 16:10=0ASubject: Europa-List: Refilling rteresq(at)onetel.net>=0A-=0AHi All.=0AMy plan is LAA cleared for use with M OGAS.=0AI fill it with a 28 litre plastic cann, lifting this weight of fuel to above my =0Ashoulders to fill the plan is hard work.=0AI know Trans Air do a filler nozzle hand pump, I presume this take a lot of time =0Asqueezi ng the trigger to re fill.??=0AHas anyone used or details off , an electric inline pump that can be plugged =0Ainto the aircrafts AUX power socket, I have not seen any on the market, so is it =0Amake your own,??=0ARegards.=0A Alan=0A-=0A-=0A-=0A-=0ARead this topic online here:=0A-=0Ahttp:// forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408005#408005=0A-=0A-=0A-=0A -=0A-=0A-=0A-=0Aarget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator ?Europa-List=0Atp://forums.matronics.com=0A_blank">http://www.matronics.com /contribution=0A-=0A-=0A-=0A-=0A-=0Ahttp://www.matronics.com/Navi gator?Europa-List=0A< ------------ MATRONICS WEB FORU MS -=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com=0Ahttp://www.matronics.com/contribution =0A-=0ANo virus found in this message.=0AChecked by AVG - www.avg.com=0AV =========================0A ======================= ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk>
Subject: Re: Refilling a Europa by hand
Date: Sep 05, 2013
Brian, I should perhaps have added 'This side of Budapest'! There the Avgas supplied at the otherwise fantastic GA airfield of Buduors, came out a horrible yellow colour and you could imagine lumps in it too. But the policy has worked well for 12 years. Regards, David "Brian Davies" wrote: > ". I don't bother with the funnel when I am filling from >an > >> airport pump." > > > > David, you might be interested in the following news >item;- > > > > Contaminated fuel caused Cathay A330 incident > > By: > <http://www.flightglobal.com/landingpage/mavis%20toh.html> > MAVIS TOH > SINGAPORE > > 3 hours ago > > * Print > >Fuel contamination has been confirmed as the cause of a >double engine > malfunction on a Cathay Pacific Airbus A330-300 on >approach to Hong Kong > International airport (HKIA) in 2010. > > In a final report released on 4 September, Hong Kong's >Civil Aviation > Department (CAD) says that 24.4t of contaminated fuel >was uplifed into the > aircraft at Surabaya's Juanda International airport. >This caused "stiction" > - static friction - in the fuel metering unit of both >engines, leading to > the total seizure of these components and the loss of >thrust controls of the > aircraft during approach to HKIA. > > It found that though the aircraft was uplifed with the >proper grade of fuel, > it was contaminated with super absorbent polymer (SAP) >spheres. During the > flight, some SAP spheres were trapped in the fuel >metering unit on both > engines, causing stiction in the unit that resulted in >engine pressure ratio > fluctuations. > > > > > > Moral- don't trust airport fuel pumps. I still use my >Mr Funnel even when I > uplift from aviation pumps. > > > > Regards > > > > Brian > > > >From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On >Behalf Of > roddyeuropa(at)aol.com > Sent: 05 September 2013 09:39 > To: europa-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: Europa-List: Refilling a Europa by hand > > > > I have used a polarn oump for a number of years. The >pump attaches to the > top of a jerry can and you use a hand air pump to >pressurize the jerry can. > Integral tube goes through jerry can fitting from base >of can to europa > filler. Takes quite a lot of pumping to get the fuel >transferred - probably > 1 - 2 mins per 20l can.See here: > > http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/fuel-containers-funnels/demon-tweek > s-polarn-pump > Needs an extension to reach the filler from jerry can on >the ground. > > Roddy Kesterton > > G-IKRK > > > > -----Original Message----- >From: Alan Carter <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net> > To: europa-list > Sent: Wed, 4 Sep 2013 16:10 > Subject: Europa-List: Refilling a Europa by hand > > > > Hi All. > My plan is LAA cleared for use with MOGAS. > I fill it with a 28 litre plastic cann, lifting this >weight of fuel to above > my > shoulders to fill the plan is hard work. > I know Trans Air do a filler nozzle hand pump, I presume >this take a lot of > time > squeezing the trigger to re fill.?? > Has anyone used or details off , an electric inline pump >that can be plugged > > into the aircrafts AUX power socket, I have not seen any >on the market, so > is it > make your own,?? > Regards. > Alan > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408005#408005 > > > > > > > > arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List > tp://forums.matronics.com > _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > > > > > > > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Refilling a Europa by hand
From: John Heykoop <john.heykoop(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 05, 2013
Kelvin, David Thanks for the advice about keeping 'Mr Funnel' from falling over when refilling a Europa XS from a jerry can. Now why didn't I figure out something like that myself .... John On 5 Sep 2013, at 08:34, Kelvin Cobb wrote: > > I am set up similar to David, I have the smallest 'Mr Funnel' and use a small length of para cord to tie to passenger lift strut.... Very secure. At the hangar I have a 'waggle side to side handled pump', but on trips just carry a plastic Jerry and my funnel and do the filling with good old fashioned brute force.... Hmmm, as I'm not getting any younger, perhaps one of those battery pump thingies might be worth a look :-) > > Sent from my iPad > > On 4 Sep 2013, at 22:05, David Joyce wrote: > >> >> John, I have a simple funnel with the spout cut off so it is about 6 or 7cm long and with a string attached to the brim. This attaches by a half hitch to the door strut and the whole thing is nicely stable. A paint filter inside the funnel completes the set up when I am using a jerry can. I don't bother with the funnel when I am filling from an airport pump. Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ >> >> >> John Heykoop wrote: >>> Hi all >>> I fitted a car battery and a standard Europa fuel pump on a 'sack barrow', but filling the plane this way takes a lot longer than refueling by simply lifting the jerry can above my shoulders. There is also the hassle of having to load the barrow into the car every time I go flying. So I soon got fed up with this and now do everything the hard way. The exercise probably does me good. >>> What I haven't been able to master is how to keep a filter funnel upright while refueling from a jerry can (my Europa is an XS). After the damn thing had fallen over a number of times, covering me and the plane with fuel I decided to do without. So far without adverse consequences - I have never found a drop of water in the fuel, and my gascolator filter is always very clean. All the same, I am uneasy about not using a filter funnel, and would be interested to know how other XS owners manage this. >>> John >>> Europa XS G-JHKP >>> On 4 Sep 2013, at 18:39, Alan Burrill wrote: >>>> Personally I use 10 litre fuel cans which I can lift to pour into a filter funnel with a micro mesh filter. I have also seen a standard fuel pump, as in the Europa electric pump, connect to a small rechargeable lead acid cell. All mounted on a 'Sack Barrow' with a 25 litre can. Alan >>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>> On 4 Sep 2013, at 15:48, "Alan Carter" wrote: >>>>> Hi All. >>>>> My plan is LAA cleared for use with MOGAS. >>>>> I fill it with a 28 litre plastic cann, lifting this weight of fuel to above my shoulders to fill the plan is hard work. >>>>> I know Trans Air do a filler nozzle hand pump, I presume this take a lot of time squeezing the trigger to re fill.?? >>>>> Has anyone used or details off , an electric inline pump that can be plugged into the aircrafts AUX power socket, I have not seen any on the market, so is it make your own,?? >>>>> Regards. >>>>> Alan >>>>> Read this topic online here: >>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408005#408005 >>> Un/Subscription, >>> Forums! >>> Admin. >> >> >> >> > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Alan Burrill <alanb(at)dpy01.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Refilling a Europa by hand
Date: Sep 05, 2013
>>What I haven't been able to master is how to keep a filter funnel upright while refueling from a jerry can (my Europa is an XS).<< Mine's an XS also. Large Oblong shape funnel with a spout that has been cut so it's about 3 in long. Hooks into the filler and stays in place. Not upright admitted. Can has a spout fixed to it. Pour fuel from can without resting on funnel and don't overdo it, aim direct for funnel filter and try not to overfill funnel use a constant flow of fuel. Alan On 4 Sep 2013, at 21:27, John Heykoop wrote: > What I haven't been able to master is how to keep a filter funnel upright while refueling from a jerry can (my Europa is an XS). ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 05, 2013
From: Frans Veldman <frans(at)privatepilots.nl>
Subject: Re: solid state contactors
On 09/03/2013 09:03 PM, Fred Klein wrote: > > I'm wondering if anyone has installed or has the expertise to evaluate these: > > http://www.periheliondesign.com/powerlinkjr/PowerLinkJrIIIManual.pdf > > thanks for any insights, Yeah, I have seen them too. For some purposes they could be fine. However I just use regular switches for almost all low power purposes. In the case I need relays (like for high current devices) I like to use real relays instead of SSR's. Look at the heat sink these SSR's have. They are there for a reason. The reason is voltage loss (and subsequent heat production in the relay). And one of the reasons you use a relay instead of a switch is to eliminate voltage loss due to lenghty wires. So these SSR's negate their own purpose in some way. I use regular car relays for high current switching purposes. Our aircraft see much daily less use than cars, and if these relays are fine for daily use in a car, they should be fine for an aircraft as well. Frans ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Side window for photography -is it easy, former?
From: "graeme bird" <graeme(at)gdbmk.co.uk>
Date: Sep 05, 2013
I need to get the camera out through the perspex, fed up with reflections spoiling the shots. I looked at it a while back and I recall someone had a template for cutting out a glider style opening (Pete Jeffers?). I would be interested to know how hard it is to cut the perspex, whether you use the existing flap or it comes with its own? Where I can buy them from? Is a down flap best or slide? And where best to put it for strength and camera access. The cooling would be a help too. Thanks -------- Graeme Bird G-UMPY Mono Classic/XS 912S/Woodcomp 3000/3W Newby: 75 hours 18 months g(at)gdbmk.co.uk Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408091#408091 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Buy Samsung Galaxy S4 IV $500/Samsung Note II N7100 $400
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Date: Sep 05, 2013
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Date: Sep 05, 2013
Subject: Side window for photography -is it easy, former?
From: Carl Pattinson <carl(at)flyers.freeserve.co.uk>
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Date: Sep 05, 2013
Subject: Re: solid state contactors
From: Paul McAllister <paul.the.aviator(at)gmail.com>
Hi Fred, I did use one of his SCS switches about 6 or 7 years ago as my main contactor (not starter relay). My main attraction was that SCS does not have a hold in current and as you are aware the Rotax alternator is fairly weak. If worked okay for about 18 months and then one day the engine kicked back while it was cranking and it destroyed it. I think his new product has a much higher current rating, however I still do not know if it is robust enough for this application. In your case it solves problems you don't have and creates new ones. :) Regards Paul. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 06, 2013
From: K BURNS <kjburns(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Side window for photography -is it easy, former?
Graeme,=0ASome good camera options to fasten on outside and use remote cont rols...=0Ahttp://www.flightcam360.com/=0A-=0AWe have some clear view pane ls and rails in the workshop off gliders...they can be sourced from mecaple x Switzerland...if you want a tint to match your aircraft.=0A-=0AThere is a high risk in installing in a old transparency as they get brittle due to UV and stress....there will be an annealing temperature, that also is risk y.=0A-=0AA high speed cut off saw (Air powered disk cutter ) is what we p refer to use, drill screw holes with a blunted drill to avoid snatch breaka ges...=0A-=0AMost gliders end up with damage from this area at some point in their life, usually caused by arms reaching in or out.=0A-=0AHence my opening sugestions !=0A-=0ABut a clear view panel saved us from coming t o grief , on take off at dawn from Elverum in Norway, mid winter at minus 1 5 degrees when the canopy instantly iced as we got off the ground at dawn, we circled the airfield as we climbed to meet the sun using the DV panels u ntil the ice melted !=0A-=0AKevin=0A =0A=0A______________________________ __=0A From: graeme bird <graeme(at)gdbmk.co.uk>=0ATo: europa-list(at)matronics.co m =0ASent: Thursday, 5 September 2013, 22:12=0ASubject: Europa-List: Side w indow for photography -is it easy, former?=0A =0A=0A--> Europa-List messag e posted by: "graeme bird" =0A=0AI need to get the came ra out through the perspex, fed up with reflections spoiling the shots. I l ooked at it a while back and I recall someone had a template for cutting ou t a glider style opening (Pete Jeffers?). I would be interested to know how hard it is to cut the perspex, whether you use the existing flap or it com es with its own? Where I can buy them from?=0AIs a down flap best or slide? And where best to put it for strength and camera access.=0AThe cooling wou ld be a help too.=0A=0AThanks=0A=0A--------=0AGraeme Bird=0AG-UMPY=0AMono C lassic/XS 912S/Woodcomp 3000/3W=0ANewby: 75 hours 18 months =0Ag(at)gdbmk.c o.uk=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronic ========= ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 05, 2013
Subject: Re: Fuel filters
From: rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us
Hi Raimo You mentioned: Notice: - Adding one-way-valve to the fuel return line (idea by Frans Veldman) is a great must (and mandatory at least for me). Can you elaborate a little on why you might want to put a one-way-valve on the fuel return line? Is this for a 914 fuel system? Thx. Ron Parigoris ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 05, 2013
Subject: Re: Fuel filters
From: rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us
Hi Raimo You mentioned: Notice: - Adding one-way-valve to the fuel return line (idea by Frans Veldman) is a great must (and mandatory at least for me). Can you elaborate a little on why you might want to put a one-way-valve on the fuel return line? Is this for a 914 fuel system? Thx. Ron Parigoris ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Side window for photography -is it easy, former?
From: "flyingphil2" <flyingphil627-europastuff(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Date: Sep 06, 2013
Hi Graeme, RD Aviation was absorbed into AFE a long time ago. I found a link here: http://www.afeonline.com/shop/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=Mecaplex&search=Search Also, Severn Valley Sailplanes sell them too and seem cheaper: http://svsponline.co.uk Regards, Phil Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408123#408123 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)talktalk.net>
Subject: Texel weather ,,,......
Date: Sep 06, 2013
Hi! Just to be helpful........I can confirm that the weather here is hot and humid with wall to wall blue sky.........what is it Cavok...... Regards Bob Harrison G-PTAG ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Texel weather ,,,......
From: Frans Veldman <frans(at)privatepilots.nl>
Date: Sep 06, 2013
Beware! Early afternoon bkn008 and sea fog is forecasted, followed by TSRAGR. Better arrive early. See you! Frans Bob Harrison wrote: >Hi! Just to be helpful........I can confirm that the weather here is >hot and >humid with wall to wall blue sky.........what is it > >Cavok...... > >Regards > >Bob Harrison G-PTAG -- Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 06, 2013
From: danny shepherd <danny(at)mcwalterscafe.co.uk>
Subject: Re: hose replacement
On 05/09/2013 10:23, Carl Pattinson wrote: > > Hi Danny, > > Conair sports will supply a complete 5 yr rubber replacement kit - excluding > the Europa fuel lines which you will need to source separately. > > Its not cheap but if looking for a one stop solution this is the way to go. > > http://www.ekmpowershop2.com/ekmps/shops/conairsports/5-year-standard-replac > ement-package-912ul--912uls-engines-only-359-p.asp > > The list price is about 500 but If you source the items separately you can > get the job done at half the cost. > > The carb parts (eg: diaphragms) are standard Bing as used on BMW > motorcycles. I can find two stockists in the uk - http://www.motobins.co.uk/ > \ and http://www.motorworks.co.uk/ . If you source the diaphragms from > these suppliers make sure they are the genuine Bing ones as they also sell > cheaper nitrile ones which are claimed to be superior (but arent - for > reasons I won't go into). > > Kevin Dilks may be able to help you with some parts. He is a Rotax engineer > but NOT the official UK agent. He has worked for Rotax in Austria and knows > where they source most of their components from. I believe he would also be > able to supply a 5 yr kit but have no idea regarding cost. > > > Kevin Dilks > E-mail: Kevindilks912(at)btinternet.com > Telephone: 0116 288 5643 > Mobile Phone Number: 07564 192 942 > > Hope this helps. > > Carl Pattinson. G-LABS > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of danny shepherd > Sent: 05 September 2013 09:50 > To: matronics > Subject: Europa-List: hose replacement > > --> > > Hi All, > I'll be trailing my a/c back to my hangar ( big shed ) soon for > some maintenance. the five year hose replacement is due early 2014 so I > thought I'd kill two birds with one stone and carry out the hose replacement > at the same time. > now a couple of questions, I'd like to use the same spring clips on the > water hoses that Rotax use. so where can I get them and the tool needed to > do the job ? secondly does anyone supply a full kit to change all the hoes > fuel/oil/ water. or do I have to order them seperately? > > Cheers Danny G-c.e.r.i > > > Cheers Carl thanks for the info. Danny. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk>
Subject: Re: Texel weather ,,,......
Date: Sep 06, 2013
Bob, Thanks. Could you be really helpful and post a local METAR at say 8.30 local tomorrow for the sake of those contemplating Sat arrival. The forecasts look generally good apart from RASP predictions which seem to suggest a cloudbase something below windmill height! Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ "Bob Harrison" wrote: > Hi! Just to be helpful........I can confirm that the >weather here is hot and > humid with wall to wall blue sky.........what is it > > Cavok...... > > Regards > > Bob Harrison G-PTAG > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Graphics
From: "Scudrunner" <howardbrooksster(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 06, 2013
While my bird is in the workshop for some enforced repairs (don't ask, I'm too embarrassed), I thought I might update the graphics. I've seen some nice swoopy graphics on Europas and assume that they are simple stick on vinyl? Can anyone advise on sources and costs? Thanks Howard Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408129#408129 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: hose replacement
From: "Dave Disney" <davedisney(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Date: Sep 06, 2013
Hi Danny, there is also a silicone hose replacement kit as advertised in the Europa Flyer - contact is ingemarsson.s(at)telia.com I have no idea what is included in the kit or how much it costs but it could be a viable alternative. Cheers Dave G-RJWX Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408141#408141 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Graphics
From: "Europaul383" <europaul383(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Sep 06, 2013
I used Paul Burton at TWF Solutions (part of Swift) to design the graphic - cost 120 GBP, less 10% for Europa owners, plus 20% VAT = 129.60 GBP. He gets his local branch of Signs Express to make up the vinyl (he supplies them with final PDF camera-ready artwork), cost 265 GBP plus 20% VAT = 318.00 GBP. You could then ask your local Signs Express (or whoever) to apply the vinyl if you don't feel up to experimenting... I was quoted 290 GBP plus 20% VAT = 348.00 GBP. Plenty of videos on YouTube of how to apply vinyl; you'll need chinagraph (grease pencil), masking tape, water, detergent, squeegee, a steady hand and nerves of steel... :-) Contact details: http://www.signsexpress.co.uk/branch-locator/ Paul Burton This Way Forward +44 (0)1933 654810 +44 (0)7590 196648 www.twf-solutions.co.uk Hope this helps Paul M 383 XS Mono 912S G-PLPM Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408142#408142 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/g_plpm_final_452.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Graphics
From: "Scudrunner" <howardbrooksster(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 06, 2013
Wow, that looks great. Who would own copyright for the design? I'd need different colours but..... Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408149#408149 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk>
Subject: Scout camp at Defford 14-15/9/13
Date: Sep 06, 2013
For those in the south of England: The Gloucester Strut is as ever helping to give a large group of air scouts free flights during their weekend camp on 14t or 15th of September, at Croft Farm /Defford (about 10 nm N of Gloucester, EGBJ, grass runway,570m, 28/10). We could do with a few more pilot volunteers to help with these highly motivated youngsters. Timing: 10.00am onwards on the Saturday or if weather dictates on the Sunday. Required experience: 250 hrs total. 20hrs on type; 3hrs on type in last 90/7; 3 T/Os & Landings in last 30/7 Age limit: None What's involved: Flying scouts around a 20 minute triangular course alongside the Malvern Hills What's in it for you: A feeling of deep satisfaction at enthusing the next generation of pilots + some scout cooked food, including some stunning pancakes! If you can help or would like to know more contact me soonest please David Joyce, G-XSDJ, 01454 260542 or email ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Scout camp at Defford 14-15/9/13
From: "gtagr" <clive.maf(at)googlemail.com>
Date: Sep 06, 2013
Hi David, Might be able to help - isn't there some LAA restriction on flying young people? Maybe that's just the Air Cadets? Clive Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408152#408152 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Paul Mansfield <europaul383(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Graphics
Date: Sep 06, 2013
Thanks Howard, Well I guess I own the copyright - I commissioned Paul B to complete the graphic design to my ideas/thinking. Happy for you to use it (imitation is the sincerest form... and all that). The swirl across the tail is supposed to suggest a parachute (a past life) so you may want to modify it for your own purposes. I have artwork PDF if you want. Paul M 383 XS Mono 912S G-PLPM -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scudrunner Sent: 06 September 2013 14:47 Subject: Europa-List: Re: Graphics --> Wow, that looks great. Who would own copyright for the design? I'd need different colours but..... Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408149#408149 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Graphics
From: "Scudrunner" <howardbrooksster(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 06, 2013
Paul, It would be very kind of you if I could use the design. Personally I have no design flair whatsoever. I see what you mean about the parachute. As I started this aviation thing with paragliding, perhaps it resonates with my history also? The pdf would be great. Thanks Howard Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408158#408158 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 06, 2013
From: Jeff B <topglock(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Graphics
Howard, Where are you located? Jeff - Baby Blue On 9/6/2013 4:27 AM, Scudrunner wrote: > > While my bird is in the workshop for some enforced repairs (don't ask, I'm too embarrassed), I thought I might update the graphics. I've seen some nice swoopy graphics on Europas and assume that they are simple stick on vinyl? > > Can anyone advise on sources and costs? > > Thanks > > Howard > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408129#408129 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Graphics
From: "Scudrunner" <howardbrooksster(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 06, 2013
I'm in the UK - West Sussex Howard Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408163#408163 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 06, 2013
From: Jeff B <topglock(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Graphics
I do graphics, but in the US... Sorry. Jeff On 9/6/2013 12:00 PM, Scudrunner wrote: > > I'm in the UK - West Sussex > > Howard ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 06, 2013
From: danny shepherd <danny(at)mcwalterscafe.co.uk>
Subject: graphics
Murray flint of Kings Lyne did mine for me a few years ago, can't remember the exact price but did a great job. attached a pic Danny. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Scout camp at Defford 14-15/9/13
From: Kelvin Cobb <kelvin.cobb(at)icloud.com>
Date: Sep 06, 2013
Hello David, I'd be happy to support this, just let me know what you need. I meet the required experience criteria and am always up for free food especially pancakes :-) Regards Kelvin G-BZAM 07933-698969 Kelvin.cobb(at)gmail.com Sent from my iPad On 6 Sep 2013, at 14:54, David Joyce wrote: > > > For those in the south of England: > The Gloucester Strut is as ever helping to give a large group of air scouts free flights during their weekend camp on 14t or 15th of September, at Croft Farm /Defford (about 10 nm N of Gloucester, EGBJ, grass runway,570m, 28/10). We could do with a few more pilot volunteers to help with these highly motivated youngsters. > Timing: 10.00am onwards on the Saturday or if weather dictates on the Sunday. > Required experience: 250 hrs total. 20hrs on type; 3hrs on type in last 90/7; > 3 T/Os & Landings in last 30/7 > Age limit: None > What's involved: Flying scouts around a 20 minute triangular course alongside > the Malvern Hills > What's in it for you: A feeling of deep satisfaction at enthusing the next > generation of pilots + some scout cooked food, including > some stunning pancakes! > If you can help or would like to know more contact me soonest please > David Joyce, G-XSDJ, 01454 260542 or email > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Texel weather ,,,......
From: "zwakie" <mz(at)cariama.nl>
Date: Sep 06, 2013
Bob 'The Boss' anker me to provider the UK-folks THE local METAR, so here goes. These are the ones along Holland's west coaster: ZCZC SA070525 EHAM AMSTERDAM/SCHIPHOL NLD -3 m. METAR EHAM 070525Z 20004KT 9999 BKN040 17/15 Q1014 NOSIG ZCZC SA070525 EHKD DE KOOY/DE KOOY NLD 1 m. METAR EHKD 070525Z AUTO 20003KT 8000 BR FEW062 OVC110 16/15 Q1014 BLU 19004KT 7000 BKN024 OVC060 BECMG 9999 SCT025 BKN060 ZCZC SA070525 EHRD ROTTERDAM/THE HAGUE AIRPORT NLD -5 m. METAR EHRD 070525Z AUTO 21004KT 160V250 9999 BKN042 BKN049 16/13 Q1014 NOSIG ZCZC SA070525 EHVL VLIELAND NLD 10 m. METAR EHVL 070525Z AUTO 24008KT 9999 FEW025 OVC055 17/15 Q1014 BLU RMK TS INFO NOT AVBL ZCZC SA070525 EHWO WOENSDRECHT/WOENSDRECHT NLD 19 m. METAR EHWO 070525Z AUTO 16001KT 9999 BKN033 OVC038 15/14 Q1014 BLU -------- Marcel Zwakenberg (Europa Classic Tri-Gear PH-MZW) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408189#408189 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk>
Subject: Re: Texel weather ,,,......
Date: Sep 07, 2013
Marcel. Thanks. I had really meant him just to look out of his tent without getting out of bed! David Joyce "zwakie" wrote: > > > Bob 'The Boss' anker me to provider the UK-folks THE >local METAR, so here goes. These are the ones along >Holland's west coaster: > > > > ZCZC > SA070525 EHAM AMSTERDAM/SCHIPHOL NLD -3 m. > METAR EHAM 070525Z 20004KT 9999 BKN040 17/15 Q1014 >NOSIG > > > ZCZC > SA070525 EHKD DE KOOY/DE KOOY NLD 1 m. > METAR EHKD 070525Z AUTO 20003KT 8000 BR FEW062 OVC110 >16/15 Q1014 > BLU 19004KT 7000 BKN024 OVC060 BECMG 9999 SCT025 BKN060 > > > ZCZC > SA070525 EHRD ROTTERDAM/THE HAGUE AIRPORT NLD -5 >m. > METAR EHRD 070525Z AUTO 21004KT 160V250 9999 BKN042 >BKN049 16/13 > Q1014 NOSIG > > > ZCZC > SA070525 EHVL VLIELAND NLD 10 m. > METAR EHVL 070525Z AUTO 24008KT 9999 FEW025 OVC055 17/15 >Q1014 > BLU RMK TS INFO NOT AVBL > > ZCZC > SA070525 EHWO WOENSDRECHT/WOENSDRECHT NLD 19 m. > METAR EHWO 070525Z AUTO 16001KT 9999 BKN033 OVC038 15/14 >Q1014 BLU > > -------- > Marcel Zwakenberg > (Europa Classic Tri-Gear PH-MZW) > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408189#408189 > > > > > > > >Un/Subscription, >Forums! >Admin. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 07, 2013
From: "nigel_graham@m-tecque.co.uk" <nigel_graham@m-tecque.co.uk>
Subject: Firewall Off-cut
A bit of a strange request but ...... does anyone (in the UK) still have the section of the phenolic firewall that would have been cut out and discarded when installing the main engine/undercarriage frame? As some of you will be aware, I am developing a conventional gear and as this does not make use of this frame, I am looking to close off the hole with suitably fire retardant material. If you still have this lurking in the scrap pile in your workshop, I would be happy to offer it a new home. Nigel ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Firewall Off-cut
From: Richard Iddon <riddon(at)sent.com>
Date: Sep 07, 2013
Nigel. I have a small piece approx. 7in. x 13in. if this is any good to you. Richard Iddon G-RIXS. On 7 Sep 2013, at 11:46, nigel_graham@m-tecque.co.uk wrote: > > A bit of a strange request but ...... does anyone (in the UK) still have the section of the phenolic firewall that would have been cut out and discarded when installing the main engine/undercarriage frame? As some of you will be aware, I am developing a conventional gear and as this does not make use of this frame, I am looking to close off the hole with suitably fire retardant material. > > If you still have this lurking in the scrap pile in your workshop, I would be happy to offer it a new home. > > Nigel > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: fuel sight tube - advice needed how to prevent bubble
From: "graeme bird" <graeme(at)gdbmk.co.uk>
Date: Sep 07, 2013
Filled the tank in stages and checked the sight tube as its been a bit odd and I thought I may have made a mistake in marking. At about 4/5ths full the reading goes down but the vent tube stays full. I presume due to wiggles in the pipe and when the surface tension matches the force of the air wanting to escape the bubble stays and it misreads. I am thinking putting a larger dia pipe from the tank to to vent would cure it or maybe just a wide section (like a filter glass with no filter) might do it. I only use if for ground fuel state assessment. Found the seal on the electric qauge is seeping slightly, wretched thing wish I'd gone straight to the FPL5 fuel flow gauge. -------- Graeme Bird G-UMPY Mono Classic/XS 912S/Woodcomp 3000/3W Newby: 75 hours 18 months g(at)gdbmk.co.uk Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408195#408195 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Carpet type ?
From: "graeme bird" <graeme(at)gdbmk.co.uk>
Date: Sep 07, 2013
My cockpit is all bare apart from the seats, Where would I get light, fire resistant carpet from? I have made up some paper formers. I could even consider some upholstery if I knew what to use and where to get it. -------- Graeme Bird G-UMPY Mono Classic/XS 912S/Woodcomp 3000/3W Newby: 75 hours 18 months g(at)gdbmk.co.uk Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408196#408196 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Navaid Servo
From: Kelvin Cobb <kelvin.cobb(at)icloud.com>
Date: Sep 07, 2013
Ok, nearly there with getting all the parts together to complete the Navaid wing leveller installation. Would anyone know the parent numbers & where to purchase the constituent parts that make up the 'push rod' that connects the servo to the aircraft? I can see from photos, that its a length of tubing, rod ends & very small rose joints; but my head hurts from trying to track down all the correct numbers :-( Regards as alway Kelvin (G-BZAM) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Pattinson" <carl(at)flyers.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Navaid Servo
Date: Sep 07, 2013
LAS Aerospace Ltd (Light Aero Spares) would be my first port of call - they should stock everything you require. http://www.lasaero.com What you need will depend on the how you are installing it - I am not aware of any standard installation. Here is a quick pic of ours which I designed myself (sorry, not the full installation - this was a shot of the stick which shows where the servo arm is connected). It is a short length of tube and two rod ends bolted to a bracket at the base of the control stick. Hope this helps. -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelvin Cobb Sent: 07 September 2013 16:14 Subject: Re: Europa-List: Navaid Servo Ok, nearly there with getting all the parts together to complete the Navaid wing leveller installation. Would anyone know the parent numbers & where to purchase the constituent parts that make up the 'push rod' that connects the servo to the aircraft? I can see from photos, that its a length of tubing, rod ends & very small rose joints; but my head hurts from trying to track down all the correct numbers :-( Regards as alway Kelvin (G-BZAM) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 07, 2013
From: Jeff B <topglock(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Carpet type ?
Graeme, There is a very light carpet, meant for auto interiors, that is sold in small rolls at places like Auto Zone and other automotive suppliers. It is pliable enough to be stretched around the contours of the center tunnel. A little heat from a heat gun and it forms perfectly. Any good spray adhesive will hold it in place. I would estimate all the carpet in Baby Blue weighs less than half a kilo. Jeff - Baby Blue On 9/7/2013 9:35 AM, graeme bird wrote: > > My cockpit is all bare apart from the seats, Where would I get light, fire resistant carpet from? I have made up some paper formers. I could even consider some upholstery if I knew what to use and where to get it. > > -------- > Graeme Bird > G-UMPY > Mono Classic/XS 912S/Woodcomp 3000/3W > Newby: 75 hours 18 months > g(at)gdbmk.co.uk > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408196#408196 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "craig" <craigb(at)onthenet.com.au>
Subject: Carpet type ?
Date: Sep 08, 2013
SOME not all marine carpets are a good choice also, I bought 8 metres on a roll 8 feet wide and the whole lot weighs in at about 4kg, very hard wearing and fire resistant, comes in a choice of colours, once cut I expect mine will weigh in around 2kg, that's covering the front floor and sides up to the door opening, tunnel, seat back (front top and back) And baggage bay floor up to the fuselage join and the bulkhead apart from the D panel Hope this helps craig ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Christoph Both <christoph.both(at)acadiau.ca>
Subject: Re: Weight & Balance parameters requested: EUROPA CLASSIC
TRI
Date: Sep 07, 2013
Dear Europa Community: I am in the process of establishing Weight&Balance for my Europa Classic En gine Frame Trigear. The question of the firewall forward datum has come up as data produced fro m preliminary measurements of weight and distance have not yet returned a s atisfactory reference to the required 58'-62.5' CG envelope. The Classic version I completed has the Classic Engine Mount fitted, this i s why I referred to the Pilot Handbook from 1998. However, the handbook sho ws only the MONO configuration. No reference to the recently more common z ero station to be found at 29.75 inches forward from the backward firewall juggle is made there. And I assume this newer, more precise measurement pro bably applies to the XS motor mount and cowling which might have quite diff erent dimensions. My Classic forward face of the cowling shows 29.0 inches from that firewall juggle. Am I missing something important here? Where exactly os the Zero Datum for Classic Engine Mount Europas to be found? Finally, I assume the nose wheel is supposed to point backwards towards the tail when taking weight and distance measurements from station zero. If there is an official documentation how to establish W&B for my configura tion, I appreciate this. Thank you. Christoph Both #223 Classic 912ULS C-GPEL ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 08, 2013
From: GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Weight & Balance parameters requested: EUROPA CLASSIC
TRI Christoph=0ADon't be too confused by different data, (datums? don't sound r ight does it?)=0AThe critical issue is the relationship between Centre of P ressure and C of G. The datum is an empirical position chosen for convenien ce of calculation, so you need to refer your calculated CG to the datum use d to calculate it. I suggest you use the XS datum point, remember you need to be accurate with distance measurement, (0.1 inch.)-=0AI always use a s preadsheet, this can be entered in your iPad to check loading in the field. This -works for any airplane. I simply enter the relevant lengths which sometimes have a -ve sign if they are the other side of the datum. For anot her airplane just alter the measurements.-=0AI hope that helps, please no te I've had my nocturnal Scotch which might dilute quality of communication .-=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0A From: Christoph B oth =0ATo: "europa-list(at)matronics.com" =0ASent: Saturday, 7 September 2013, 23:09=0ASubject: Re : Europa-List: Weight & Balance parameters requested: EUROPA CLASSIC TRI =0A =0A=0A=0ADear Europa Community:=0AI am in the process of establishing W eight&Balance for my Europa Classic Engine Frame Trigear.=0AThe question of the firewall forward datum has come up as data produced from preliminary m easurements of weight and distance have not yet returned a satisfactory ref erence to the required 58'-62.5' CG envelope.-=0AThe Classic version I co mpleted has the Classic Engine Mount fitted, this is why I referred to the Pilot Handbook from 1998. However, the handbook shows only -the MONO conf iguration. No reference to the recently more common zero station to be foun d at 29.75 inches forward from the backward firewall juggle is made there. And I assume this newer, more precise measurement probably applies to the X S motor mount and cowling which might have quite different dimensions. -M y Classic forward face of the cowling shows 29.0 inches from that firewall juggle.=0AAm I missing something important here? Where exactly os the Zero Datum for Classic Engine Mount Europas to be found?=0AFinally, I assume the nose wheel is supposed to point backwards towards the tail when taking wei ght and distance measurements from station zero.=0AIf there is an official documentation how to establish W&B for my configuration, I appreciate this. =========== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Christoph Both <christoph.both(at)acadiau.ca>
Subject: Re: Weight & Balance parameters requested: EUROPA CLASSIC
TRI
Date: Sep 08, 2013
Graham, Thank you so much for addressing my questions. Much appreciated. Best, Christoph From: GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton(at)btinternet.com<mailto:grahamsinglet on(at)btinternet.com>> ropa-list(at)matronics.com> Date: Saturday, 7 September, 2013 8:36 PM ist(at)matronics.com> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Weight & Balance parameters requested: EUROPA CLA SSIC TRI Christoph Don't be too confused by different data, (datums? don't sound right does it ?) The critical issue is the relationship between Centre of Pressure and C of G. The datum is an empirical position chosen for convenience of calculation , so you need to refer your calculated CG to the datum used to calculate it . I suggest you use the XS datum point, remember you need to be accurate wi th distance measurement, (0.1 inch.) I always use a spreadsheet, this can be entered in your iPad to check loadi ng in the field. This works for any airplane. I simply enter the relevant lengths which sometimes have a -ve sign if they are the other side of the d atum. For another airplane just alter the measurements. I hope that helps, please note I've had my nocturnal Scotch which might dil ute quality of communication. Graham ________________________________ From: Christoph Both <christoph.both(at)acadiau.ca<mailto:christoph.both(at)acadi au.ca>> ist(at)matronics.com> Sent: Saturday, 7 September 2013, 23:09 Subject: Re: Europa-List: Weight & Balance parameters requested: EUROPA CLA SSIC TRI Dear Europa Community: I am in the process of establishing Weight&Balance for my Europa Classic En gine Frame Trigear. The question of the firewall forward datum has come up as data produced fro m preliminary measurements of weight and distance have not yet returned a s atisfactory reference to the required 58'-62.5' CG envelope. The Classic version I completed has the Classic Engine Mount fitted, this i s why I referred to the Pilot Handbook from 1998. However, the handbook sho ws only the MONO configuration. No reference to the recently more common z ero station to be found at 29.75 inches forward from the backward firewall juggle is made there. And I assume this newer, more precise measurement pro bably applies to the XS motor mount and cowling which might have quite diff erent dimensions. My Classic forward face of the cowling shows 29.0 inches from that firewall juggle. Am I missing something important here? Where exactly os the Zero Datum for Classic Engine Mount Europas to be found? Finally, I assume the nose wheel is supposed to point backwards towards the tail when taking weight and distance measurements from station zero. If there is an official documentation how to establish W&B for my configura tion, I appreciate this. Thank you. Christoph Both #223 Classic 912ULS C-GPEL http:/rel="nofollow" target="_blank" href="http://forums.matronics.co m/">ht======================= ://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk>
Subject: Re: Scout camp at Defford 14-15/9/13
Date: Sep 08, 2013
Kelvin, Many thanks I attach the Pilot Briefing sheet. Regards, David Kelvin Cobb wrote: > > > Hello David, > I'd be happy to support this, just let me know what you >need. > I meet the required experience criteria and am always up >for free food especially pancakes :-) > > Regards > Kelvin G-BZAM > 07933-698969 > Kelvin.cobb(at)gmail.com > > > Sent from my iPad > > On 6 Sep 2013, at 14:54, David Joyce > wrote: > >> >> >> >> For those in the south of England: >> The Gloucester Strut is as ever helping to give a large >>group of air scouts free flights during their weekend >>camp on 14t or 15th of September, at Croft Farm /Defford >>(about 10 nm N of Gloucester, EGBJ, grass runway,570m, >>28/10). We could do with a few more pilot volunteers to >>help with these highly motivated youngsters. >> Timing: 10.00am onwards on the Saturday or if >>weather dictates on the Sunday. >> Required experience: 250 hrs total. 20hrs on type; >>3hrs on type in last 90/7; >> 3 T/Os & >>Landings in last 30/7 >> Age limit: None >> What's involved: Flying scouts around a 20 minute >>triangular course alongside >> the Malvern Hills >> What's in it for you: A feeling of deep >>satisfaction at enthusing the next >> generation of pilots >>+ some scout cooked food, including >> some stunning >>pancakes! >> If you can help or would like to know more contact me >>soonest please >> David Joyce, G-XSDJ, 01454 260542 or email >> >> >> >> > > >Un/Subscription, >Forums! >Admin. > > > 0M8R4KGxGuEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAPgADAP7/CQAGAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABAAAARAAAAAAA AAAAEAAARgAAAAEAAAD+////AAAAAEMAAAD///////////////////////////////////// //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// 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________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Erich Trombley" <erichdtrombley(at)juno.com>
Date: Sep 08, 2013
Subject: Carpet type ?
Hello Graeme, I sourced my carpet from Airtex Interiors http://www.airte xinteriors.com/samplesCategory.php?categoryKey=carpeting Meets FAA req uirements for aircraft interiors. The carpet is plush and rather lightw eight. I used it for all of the foot wells, rear baggage floor and shel f. It has held up very well these past 10+ years of service. Good luck. Erich TrombleyN28ET Classis Mono 914 ____________________________________________________________ One Weird Trick Could add $1,000s to Your Social Security Checks! See if you QualifyR 30 http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/522c8aab7506eaab74a8st01vuc ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 08, 2013
From: John Cliff <johnfcliff(at)googlemail.com>
Subject: Re: Firewall Off-cut
> A bit of a strange request but ...... does anyone (in the UK) still have the section of the > phenolic firewall that would have been cut out and discarded when installing the main > engine/undercarriage frame? I have a piece about 9" x 11" if it's any use. John Cliff #0259 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Andrew Sarangan <asarangan(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 08, 2013
Subject: Spar pin bushes
I am in the process of bonding the bushes into the CM and the guide sockets. The pre-made spar bushes align perfectly with each other, and I can drop the 1/2" bolts in with no effort. However, the mating blank holes in the CM are a tad too far apart, by about 1mm. The bush doesn't have much wiggle room in the hole. Nevertheless, with a lot of force and torque I am able to drive the bolt in. Removing the bolt is also a big struggle. This doesn't seem right. My thought was that the holes were either made with a small error, or, possibly the cockpit module could have expanded or twisted with time. I was going to lightly grind the inside of the hole to expand it and then bond the bush with flox. My question is, which bush? We are only talking about 1mm, so it may not matter but I didn't want to run in to problems later due to this. Another related concern is, given that the CM has some flexibility at this stage, even if I make the bushes align perfectly now, I am concerned if they may not align later. So one thought I had was to attach a long thick steel plate to the bushes (like a dummy spar) and leave it in there until after the cockpit module is bonded. Has anyone tried something like this, or is this an overkill? BTW, I am in awe of those who did this step by supporting the wings on wooden blocks and beer crates. It took me a greater part of a week to tweak the height and angles and lots of shimming to get the wings line up. This was not trivial. I have some photos on my website. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Fuchs " <gregoryf.flyboy(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Spar pin bushes
Date: Sep 08, 2013
Hi Andrew, I had the same problem as you did. With the bushings dry-fit into the holes into the cockpit module, it was a very tight fit for installing the wing plus bolts into the module. After scratching my head a little, I decided to split the difference, and file the inboard part of both holes a little bit to prevent any offset towards either side of the aircraft. Then if you set up your wings carefully at the proper attitude at this stage, it should supply dividends throughout the entire project. The front of the module was on the ground during this procedure, and hence the leading and trailing edges of the wings were pointed groundward and skyward, respectably. That way only two wing supports were needed to be built up, and they doubled as wing holders for the rest of the project. My wing pins still slide in easily, and the bushings never had to be re-positioned later on. I Araldited (is that a verb? :) )and floxed mine in at that early stage, but skipped putting in the 3mm plywood supports over the bushings until the wing lift-drag pins were installed into the fuselage...just in case the bushings didn't line up later, and needed to be removed. All was good however, and I installed those plywood pieces about 6 months ago. I never had to support the bushings with anything but the cockpit module. If I remember correctly, my method of filing both holes in the cockpit module was ok'd and verified by the company before I did it. It was only a very small amount that needed to be filed. To sum up, if the bushings are installed properly in the beginning (taking lateral offsets and wing attitude into account) they should not ever have to be removed or re-positioned later. Regards, Greg F -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Sarangan Sent: Sunday, September 08, 2013 12:55 PM Subject: Europa-List: Spar pin bushes I am in the process of bonding the bushes into the CM and the guide sockets. The pre-made spar bushes align perfectly with each other, and I can drop the 1/2" bolts in with no effort. However, the mating blank holes in the CM are a tad too far apart, by about 1mm. The bush doesn't have much wiggle room in the hole. Nevertheless, with a lot of force and torque I am able to drive the bolt in. Removing the bolt is also a big struggle. This doesn't seem right. My thought was that the holes were either made with a small error, or, possibly the cockpit module could have expanded or twisted with time. I was going to lightly grind the inside of the hole to expand it and then bond the bush with flox. My question is, which bush? We are only talking about 1mm, so it may not matter but I didn't want to run in to problems later due to this. Another related concern is, given that the CM has some flexibility at this stage, even if I make the bushes align perfectly now, I am concerned if they may not align later. So one thought I had was to attach a long thick steel plate to the bushes (like a dummy spar) and leave it in there until after the cockpit module is bonded. Has anyone tried something like this, or is this an overkill? BTW, I am in awe of those who did this step by supporting the wings on wooden blocks and beer crates. It took me a greater part of a week to tweak the height and angles and lots of shimming to get the wings line up. This was not trivial. I have some photos on my website. _ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Scout camp at Defford 14-15/9/13
From: "Bill & Sue" <Billandsue(at)billbell.co.uk>
Date: Sep 09, 2013
David, Sue and I live near Defford and were planning to attend, unfortunately our plane has to go in for its Annual on the Friday but we aim to show up and see what we can do to help. If anyone needs it we can offer a bed for the night. Our contact number 01684 311001. Regards Bill & Sue Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408256#408256 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Max Cointe (Free)" <mcointe(at)free.fr>
Subject: Tires
Date: Sep 09, 2013
Hi There All, I changed my tires on main gear in June 2011 and they are now completely smooth and looks very thin after only 150 hours (maybe 150 TO and landing?) on paved runway. What tire do you use (certified or not, Michelin, AirTrac, ...) and how long do you keep them? Max Cointe mcointe(at)free.fr F-PMLH Europa XS_TriGear Kit #560-2003 912ULS/AirmasterAP332 450 hours F-PLDJ DynAro MCR 4S Kit #27-2002 912ULSFR/MTProp MTV7A 1550 heures ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 09, 2013
From: Jeff B <topglock(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Tires
Max, I've used them all, from Michelins to cheapest. They all seem to last about 150 hours. I now have 6 ply Air Tracs on board and they per form well... Jeff - Baby Blue On 9/9/2013 7:57 AM, Max Cointe (Free) wrote: > > Hi There All, > > I changed my tires on main gear in June 2011 and they are now completely > smooth and looks very thin after only 150 hours (maybe 150 TO and landing?) > on paved runway. What tire do you use (certified or not, Michelin, AirTrac, > ...) and how long do you keep them? > > Max Cointe > mcointe(at)free.fr > F-PMLH Europa XS_TriGear > Kit #560-2003 912ULS/AirmasterAP332 450 hours > > F-PLDJ DynAro MCR 4S > Kit #27-2002 912ULSFR/MTProp MTV7A 1550 heures > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 09, 2013
From: DAVID JOYCE <stranfaer(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Avcomm bulbs still in business
Does anyone know if Avcomm are still trading, my Europa has a unit supplied by them that monitors engine starter, fuel pressure etc and shows a red bu lb on the dash. I believe the bulbs are 6 volt and want to source one urgen tly.=0A-=0Argds=0ADJ=0AThe other one=0A=0ASent to you from David Joyce=0A www.eastmidsspas.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Avcomm bulbs still in business
From: John Heykoop <john.heykoop(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 09, 2013
David They have a website www.avcomm.co.uk, so it looks as if they are still tradi ng. John On 9 Sep 2013, at 19:28, DAVID JOYCE wrote: > Does anyone know if Avcomm are still trading, my Europa has a unit supplie d by them that monitors engine starter, fuel pressure etc and shows a red bu lb on the dash. I believe the bulbs are 6 volt and want to source one urgent ly. > > rgds > DJ > The other one > > Sent to you from David Joyce > www.eastmidsspas.com > > > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 09, 2013
From: DAVID JOYCE <stranfaer(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Avcomm bulbs still in business
Cant get any answer from them John?=0A=0ASent to you from David Joyce=0Awww .eastmidsspas.com=0A=0A =0A=0A________________________________=0A From: Joh n Heykoop =0ATo: "europa-list(at)matronics.com" =0ASent: Monday, 9 September 2013, 20:03=0ASubject: R e: Europa-List: Avcomm bulbs still in business=0A =0A=0A=0ADavid=0A=0AThey have a website http://www.avcomm.co.uk/, so it looks as if they are still trading.=0A=0AJohn=0A=0AOn 9 Sep 2013, at 19:28, DAVID JOYCE wrote:=0A=0A=0ADoes anyone know if Avcomm are still trading, m y Europa has a unit supplied by them that monitors engine starter, fuel pre ssure etc and shows a red bulb on the dash. I believe the bulbs are 6 volt and want to source one urgently.=0A>-=0A>rgds=0A>DJ=0A>The other one=0A> =0A>Sent to you from David Joyce=0A>http://www.eastmidsspas.com/=0A>=0A>=0A >=0A>--- =0A>================== ==================0Atp://www.matronics.co m/Navigator?Europa-List=0A================ ====================0Acs.com=0A== =========0Amatronics.com/contribution=0A====== =================== ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Avcomm bulbs still in business
From: John Heykoop <john.heykoop(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 09, 2013
I see your problem. If they are not responding to your emails then that is n ot a good sign. You could try and get a phone number for them. Avcomm is a l imited company so Companies House should be able to tell you where they are l ocated. On 9 Sep 2013, at 20:26, DAVID JOYCE wrote: > Cant get any answer from them John? > > Sent to you from David Joyce > www.eastmidsspas.com > > From: John Heykoop <john.heykoop(at)gmail.com> > To: "europa-list(at)matronics.com" > Sent: Monday, 9 September 2013, 20:03 > Subject: Re: Europa-List: Avcomm bulbs still in business > > David > > They have a website http://www.avcomm.co.uk/, so it looks as if they are s till trading. > > John > > On 9 Sep 2013, at 19:28, DAVID JOYCE wrote: > >> Does anyone know if Avcomm are still trading, my Europa has a unit suppli ed by them that monitors engine starter, fuel pressure etc and shows a red b ulb on the dash. I believe the bulbs are 6 volt and want to source one urgen tly. >> >> rgds >> DJ >> The other one >> >> Sent to you from David Joyce >> http://www.eastmidsspas.com/ >> >> >> >> >> >> ========= >> tp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List >> ========= >> cs.com >> ========================= ========= >> matronics.com/contribution >> ========================= ========= >> > http://www.matro==================== > > > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Refilling a Europa by hand
From: "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net>
Date: Sep 09, 2013
Hi all. Many thanks for replies, Lots to choose from. Personally I am not keen on jerry cans, maybe safer in transporting, but I like plastic possibly cleaner inside. however I have seen many use jerry cans without problems. I always use a filter, I have a plastic one that fits quit tightly into the filler hole, What I do notice in the filter after refilling is insects ie a small flies. I suppose one of these could block the jets, ??? So recommend using a filter, They was a post saying filter as you refill you cann at the pumps, sounded a good idea to me, till I remembered the flies. Regards. Alan Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408302#408302 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Tires
From: "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net>
Date: Sep 09, 2013
Hi All. I remember a post and photo of a jig cam you placed under the main gear leg, Like a Cam shaft drive, it lifted the wheel off the ground with easy. Changing the wheel in the field. Please post it again, as I have lost the photo. Regards. Alan Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408303#408303 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 09, 2013
From: William Bliss <william(at)wbliss.co.uk>
Subject: Landing Gear Warning System
Dear All I am considering adding a landing gear warning system to my monowheel Europa. I would be grateful for any ideas or tips on how to go about it. Thanks in anticipation Will Bliss G-WUFF ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk>
Subject: Re: Refilling a Europa by hand
Date: Sep 09, 2013
Alan, As a point of interest one of he (rarely) fatal ditchings in the UK was said by the AAIB to be due to a fly blocking he carburettor jet! Regards, David Joyce, GXDJ "Alan Carter" wrote: > > > Hi all. > Many thanks for replies, Lots to choose from. > Personally I am not keen on jerry cans, maybe safer in >transporting, but I like plastic possibly cleaner inside. >however I have seen many use jerry cans without problems. > I always use a filter, I have a plastic one that fits >quit tightly into the filler hole, What I do notice in >the filter after refilling is insects ie a small flies. > I suppose one of these could block the jets, ??? > So recommend using a filter, > They was a post saying filter as you refill you cann at >the pumps, sounded a good idea to me, till I remembered >the flies. > Regards. > Alan > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408302#408302 > > > > > > > >Un/Subscription, >Forums! >Admin. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk>
Subject: Re: Landing Gear Warning System
Date: Sep 09, 2013
William, If you invest in a smartASS it may well save your life and it also incidentally comes with a system warning you if gear is not down when you reduce to approach speed, so it may save your prop and engine too! Regards, David Joyce, GXSDJ William Bliss wrote: > > > Dear All > I am considering adding a landing gear warning system to >my monowheel Europa. I would be grateful for any ideas or >tips on how to go about it. > Thanks in anticipation > Will Bliss G-WUFF > >Un/Subscription, >Forums! >Admin. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Refilling a Europa by hand
From: "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net>
Date: Sep 09, 2013
Well just goes to show, The carburettor jet life or death. I don't know why she swallowed the fly, perhaps she'll die. Regards, Alan Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408309#408309 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk>
Subject: Re: Refilling a Europa by hand
Date: Sep 10, 2013
Yes the AAIB couldn't work out why she swallowed a fly either! It was an exotic brand of fly normally only found in N Africa and this was a PA 28 (which sink in 3 mins), in the wilds of E Scotland in winter, at night, with both crew not wearing lifejackets, so it was a bit hard to blame it all on the fly! Regards, David "Alan Carter" wrote: > > > Well just goes to show, The carburettor jet life or >death. > I don't know why she swallowed the fly, perhaps she'll >die. > Regards, > Alan > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408309#408309 > > > > > > > >Un/Subscription, >Forums! >Admin. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Justin Kennedy <Justin(at)systemwise.co.uk>
Date: Sep 10, 2013
Subject: Refilling a Europa by hand
Hi, I am a happy Polarn pump user. You neglect to say that you can empty a Jerr y can into the plane with it more quickly than pouring it direct. This is also through the filter funnel which you can steady with the left h and along with the tube. The Jerry can stay on the deck so that as it gets near empty you can put your foot on it to keep it stable while you pump the last wee bit. I have two Jerry cans in the back of the car and I take two ten litre plast ic containers with me in the plane so I can go to a garage when I am landin g away. I was not enjoying lifting cans to my side filler and tis sorted it. It was great to see so many Europas at Sywell. Cheers Justin Justin Kennedy SystemWise 107 Saughtonhall Drive Edinburgh EH12 5TS O: 0131 313 0707 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Refilling a Europa by hand
From: "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net>
Date: Sep 10, 2013
Hi. This Polarn Pump. Will it fit in and work with a 25litre plastic container. Alan Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408329#408329 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 10, 2013
Subject: Re: Landing Gear Warning System
From: rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us
Hi Will I am considering adding a landing gear warning system to my monowheel. I would be grateful for any ideas or tips on how to go about it. I am not flying yet, but here is what we are doing: http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=27480 http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=29497 See last 6 schematics: http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=81632 Ron Parigoris ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk>
Subject: Re: Landing Gear Warning System
Date: Sep 10, 2013
Ron, I would very seriously recommend putting in a SmartASS (see article in upcoming Europa Club Mag.) I know that it has saved at least one Europa pilot's life. It is an amazing bit of kit that is your best bet for avoiding stall spin accidents, but also has a nice lady telling you to put the U/C down! If you are at all interested I will send you a preview of the article. Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us wrote: > > > > > Hi Will > > > I am considering adding a landing gear warning system >to my monowheel. I > would be grateful for any ideas or tips on how to go >about it. > > > I am not flying yet, but here is what we are doing: > > > http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=27480 > > > http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=29497 > > > See last 6 schematics: > > > http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=81632 > > > Ron Parigoris > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Pattinson" <carl(at)flyers.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Refilling a Europa by hand
Date: Sep 10, 2013
I am guessing that the Polarn pump uses a cap that seals and clips to the top of the jerry can. Ron Swinden (sadly no longer with us) made a filling system for 20l steel cans which works on the same principle. You need a spare filler cap and an airbed inflating pump. Basically as long as you can seal the can and pressurise it (doesn't require much pressure) a hose that reaches to the bottom will empty the can once pressure is applied. So two connections - one which takes fuel from the bottom of the can and one which enables you to pressurise the sealed air above the fuel level. I'm guessing that with a plastic fuel can it would be possible to make a rubber or plastic bung which seals the top of the container. You might want to consider this if there is nothing specifically designed for your cans. -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan Carter Sent: 10 September 2013 11:44 Subject: Europa-List: Re: Refilling a Europa by hand --> Hi. This Polarn Pump. Will it fit in and work with a 25litre plastic container. Alan Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408329#408329 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 10, 2013
Subject: Re: Landing Gear Warning System
From: rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us
Hi David Ron, I would very seriously recommend putting in a SmartASS: We purchased a Smart ASS Mk 1 that will be installed: http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=79836 I forget if it has a UC warning input, if it does will probably use it as well as our warning system. Thx. for your INPUT! Ron Parigoris ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk>
Subject: Re: Landing Gear Warning System
Date: Sep 10, 2013
Ron, If it is reasonably current it has a wire for a U/C warning which you can attach to a microswitch in the indent where the U/C lever goes when locked. You shouldn't need another one as well. regards, David rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us wrote: > > > > > Hi David > > > Ron, I would very seriously recommend putting in a >SmartASS: > > > We purchased a Smart ASS Mk 1 that will be installed: > > > http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=79836 > > > I forget if it has a UC warning input, if it does will >probably use it as > well as our warning system. > > > Thx. for your INPUT! > > > Ron Parigoris > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 10, 2013
From: "nigel_graham@m-tecque.co.uk" <nigel_graham@m-tecque.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Firewall Off-cut
Thanks to everyone that responded to my request - both on and off-list. I have been offered enough phenolic off-cuts to build a new workshop! It is truly alarming how much material does get thrown away during the build process - I still have a (warm) loft full of blue foam. Nigel On 07/09/2013 11:46, nigel_graham@m-tecque.co.uk wrote: > <nigel_graham@m-tecque.co.uk> > > A bit of a strange request but ...... does anyone (in the UK) still > have the section of the phenolic firewall that would have been cut out > and discarded when installing the main engine/undercarriage frame? As > some of you will be aware, I am developing a conventional gear and as > this does not make use of this frame, I am looking to close off the > hole with suitably fire retardant material. > > If you still have this lurking in the scrap pile in your workshop, I > would be happy to offer it a new home. > > Nigel > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: " Peter Jeffers" <pjeffers(at)talktalk.net>
Subject: Re: Refilling a Europa by hand
Date: Sep 10, 2013
No, you will just have to get Jerry cans. Pete -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan Carter Sent: 10 September 2013 11:44 Subject: Europa-List: Re: Refilling a Europa by hand Hi. This Polarn Pump. Will it fit in and work with a 25litre plastic container. Alan Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408329#408329 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Fuel Flow Meter
From: "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net>
Date: Sep 10, 2013
Hello ALL. I spent to much money at the LAA Sywell show. At 67 I must be crazy considering the price of second-hand aircraft at the moment. I purchased a MGL Flow meter, 2 Flowscan Senders, and line fittings, An incredible 650, the final job will cost nearer a 1000, as I will need a few more bits and a new externally mounted compass, as I need the panel compass hole for the new meter, and they tell me I will need new 8.33 radio in 4 years time, Crazy Country. However, a couple Questions, 914 rubber fuel hose, what type and Where do I get this from,? The instruction for the Flow scan senders, at low fuel flows ie the 914 it recommends installing a jet in the fuel line before the flow meter, no picture of this jet, no item number or price, just give a different K value to use, Anybody know what this is all about.???!!!!! Regards. Alan Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408380#408380 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Torque Tube Clamp SM11906
From: Brian Phillips <bphillips(at)ausgrid.com.au>
Date: Sep 11, 2013
Hi Pat, I received back torque tube fitted with your clamps, knurled bronze & new nylon bushes, it was very professional. I am very pleased with results, the machining was A1, anyone thinking of this mod, I believe it is well worth the cost. Many thanks for your help, Pat! Regards, Brian Phillips | *: bphillips(at)ausgrid.com.au | ----- Forwarded by Brian Phillips/Ausgrid on 11/09/2013 06:47 AM ----- From: "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net> Date: 19/08/2013 06:43 AM Subject: Europa-List: Re: Torque Tube Clamp SM11906 Sent by: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com Hi Pat. My clamps are working well and removed all play in the tube, absolute no movement. I am pleased with them, many thanks. Alan This e-mail may contain confidential or privileged information. If you have received it in error, please notify the sender immediately via return e-mail and then delete the original e-mail. If you are the intended recipient, please note the change of sender email address to @ausgrid.com.au. Ausgrid has collected your business contact details for dealing with you in your business capacity. More information about how we handle your personal information, including your right of access is contained at http://www.ausgrid.com.au/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Landing Gear Warning System
From: roddyeuropa(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 11, 2013
Instead of a microswitch, I use a magnetic reed switch mounted on the centr e console, with a small magnet embedded in the undercarriage latch. It has the advantage of not restricting the latching in any way. Roddy Kesterton G-IKRK -----Original Message----- From: David Joyce <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk> Sent: Tue, 10 Sep 2013 17:01 Subject: Re: Europa-List: Landing Gear Warning System > Ron, If it is reasonably current it has a wire for a U/C warning which you can attach to a microswitch in the indent where the U/C lever goes when locked. You shouldn't need another one as well. regards, David rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us wrote: > > > > > Hi David > > > Ron, I would very seriously recommend putting in a >SmartASS: > > > We purchased a Smart ASS Mk 1 that will be installed: > > > http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=79836 > > > I forget if it has a UC warning input, if it does will >probably use it as > well as our warning system. > > > Thx. for your INPUT! > > > Ron Parigoris > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuel Flow Meter
From: "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 11, 2013
Alan, Floscan makes 3 models of the 201 sender for varying expected mean flow rates of gasoline. The appropriate unit for the 914 is the 201A model which handles 0.3 - 30 gal per hour. If a jet is added, at least in my imagination of what a "jet" or orifice might be, it will add turbulence and reduce accuracy of the flow turbine. I could not find a reference to such an addition in the FloScan site. Further, in a 914 application, the meaningful flow regime is roughly 3 - 7 gal/hour, well within the linear range of system. Does it really matter if the measured flow rate at idle power (less than 2 gal/hr) is slightly off? The only place where the flow rates are less than that is in the return line to the tank. In my 912s application, the return flow is unmeasured, but very small, since my measured forward flow rate are right at what Rotax predicts in the manual. It is much less than the LAA posited rate of 0.8 gal/hr through the 0.35mm orifice.This was after I independently calibrated my Floscan at three different flow rates. Perhaps the LAA used a higher than Rotax max pressure head of 5 psi through the orifice? The slight apparent increase in fuel flow rate (by not measuring the return flow and subtracting it in the totalizer) seems to me a a safety feature. BTW, any additional "jet" in the return line, if that is what you were contemplating is a direct violation of the engine install instructions for the 914 which requires a low resistance path bach to the tank after the pressure regulator. The return flow rate situation with the 914 may be a bit different than with the 912s, though the pressures and the return orifice are the same. I recognize that if the LAA tells you that you must have return flow measured, if measuring flow at all, you must comply. It is just my opinion that trying to measure flow rates under 0.5 gal/hr will be inherently inaccurate with the Floscan 201A in an aircraft environment and isnot worth the trouble and expense. On the other hand, many builders have this feature installed. Best of luck! -------- Ira N224XS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408424#408424 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk>
Subject: Re: Fuel Flow Meter
Date: Sep 11, 2013
Alan, I go along with that. My 914/twin Floscan set up has worked nicely without any sort of jet. The only relevant stipulation I can remember is that there should be a reasonable length of fairly straight hose leading into each Floscan as sharp corners will produce turbulence and false readings. One of the key points with the Floscan I believe is that even if its spinner jams it will not significantly impede flow. It seems a bad idea to put anything in the flow if you don't have to. Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ "rampil" wrote: > > > Alan, > >Floscan makes 3 models of the 201 sender for varying >expected mean > flow rates of gasoline. The appropriate unit for the >914 is the 201A > model which handles 0.3 - 30 gal per hour. > > If a jet is added, at least in my imagination of what a >"jet" or orifice might > be, it will add turbulence and reduce accuracy of the >flow turbine. I could > not find a reference to such an addition in the FloScan >site. Further, in a > 914 application, the meaningful flow regime is roughly 3 >- 7 gal/hour, well > within the linear range of system. Does it really matter >if the measured > flow rate at idle power (less than 2 gal/hr) is slightly >off? > > The only place where the flow rates are less than that >is in the return line > to the tank. In my 912s application, the return flow is >unmeasured, but > very small, since my measured forward flow rate are >right at what Rotax > predicts in the manual. It is much less than the LAA >posited rate of 0.8 > gal/hr through the 0.35mm orifice.This was after I >independently > calibrated my Floscan at three different flow rates. >Perhaps the LAA > used a higher than Rotax max pressure head of 5 psi >through the orifice? > The slight apparent increase in fuel flow rate (by not >measuring the return > flow and subtracting it in the totalizer) seems to me a >a safety feature. > > BTW, any additional "jet" in the return line, if that is >what you were > contemplating is a direct violation of the engine >install instructions for the > 914 which requires a low resistance path bach to the >tank after the > pressure regulator. > > The return flow rate situation with the 914 may be a bit >different than > with the 912s, though the pressures and the return >orifice are the same. > > I recognize that if the LAA tells you that you must have >return flow measured, if measuring flow at all, you must >comply. > > It is just my opinion that trying to measure flow rates >under 0.5 gal/hr will > be inherently inaccurate with the Floscan 201A in an >aircraft environment > and isnot worth the trouble and expense. On the other >hand, many > builders have this feature installed. > > Best of luck! > > -------- > Ira N224XS > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408424#408424 > > > > > > > >Un/Subscription, >Forums! >Admin. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 11, 2013
From: Dean Seitz <daseitz(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Flow Meter
The 914 does not have a low flow rate. It pumps around 20 gal per hour from the tank and returns all of that minus what the engine used back to the tank. Feed is around 20 gal/hr and return is about 15 gal/hr at cruise. At idle it's almost 20 gal/hr return. ---- David Joyce wrote: > > Alan, I go along with that. My 914/twin Floscan set up has > worked nicely without any sort of jet. The only relevant > stipulation I can remember is that there should be a > reasonable length of fairly straight hose leading into > each Floscan as sharp corners will produce turbulence and > false readings. One of the key points with the Floscan I > believe is that even if its spinner jams it will not > significantly impede flow. It seems a bad idea to put > anything in the flow if you don't have to. > Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ > > > "rampil" wrote: > > > > > > Alan, > > > >Floscan makes 3 models of the 201 sender for varying > >expected mean > > flow rates of gasoline. The appropriate unit for the > >914 is the 201A > > model which handles 0.3 - 30 gal per hour. > > > > If a jet is added, at least in my imagination of what a > >"jet" or orifice might > > be, it will add turbulence and reduce accuracy of the > >flow turbine. I could > > not find a reference to such an addition in the FloScan > >site. Further, in a > > 914 application, the meaningful flow regime is roughly 3 > >- 7 gal/hour, well > > within the linear range of system. Does it really matter > >if the measured > > flow rate at idle power (less than 2 gal/hr) is slightly > >off? > > > > The only place where the flow rates are less than that > >is in the return line > > to the tank. In my 912s application, the return flow is > >unmeasured, but > > very small, since my measured forward flow rate are > >right at what Rotax > > predicts in the manual. It is much less than the LAA > >posited rate of 0.8 > > gal/hr through the 0.35mm orifice.This was after I > >independently > > calibrated my Floscan at three different flow rates. > >Perhaps the LAA > > used a higher than Rotax max pressure head of 5 psi > >through the orifice? > > The slight apparent increase in fuel flow rate (by not > >measuring the return > > flow and subtracting it in the totalizer) seems to me a > >a safety feature. > > > > BTW, any additional "jet" in the return line, if that is > >what you were > > contemplating is a direct violation of the engine > >install instructions for the > > 914 which requires a low resistance path bach to the > >tank after the > > pressure regulator. > > > > The return flow rate situation with the 914 may be a bit > >different than > > with the 912s, though the pressures and the return > >orifice are the same. > > > > I recognize that if the LAA tells you that you must have > >return flow measured, if measuring flow at all, you must > >comply. > > > > It is just my opinion that trying to measure flow rates > >under 0.5 gal/hr will > > be inherently inaccurate with the Floscan 201A in an > >aircraft environment > > and isnot worth the trouble and expense. On the other > >hand, many > > builders have this feature installed. > > > > Best of luck! > > > > -------- > > Ira N224XS > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408424#408424 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >Un/Subscription, > >Forums! > >Admin. > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Factory upholstery kit
From: "Kelvin Weston" <kelv(at)kdweston.biz>
Date: Sep 11, 2013
Hi all If anyone has the Europa supplied seat and upholstery kit, I would like some information regarding the seats. How well does the seat back cushion fit around the wing spar pins? and do the cushions provide support in the lower back area? I saw some examples of the seats at the LAA Rally a few weekends ago. The seat base looks ok but the seat back looks like a very simple flat, slab-like arrangement. On returning home and looking at the cockpit module, it would appear that the back cushion will conflict with and cover the wing spar pins. Has anybody experienced problems in this area? In addition, I was also very aware of the change in angle of the cockpit module front face. There is a tendency to think of this as a flat face but there is actually quite a large change of angle. From sitting in the seat - something I do quite a lot, with associated noises, etc, I have come to the conclusion that any seat back cushion should follow the headrest angle down to the seat base. Is that correct? This would leave a triangular shaped void between the bottom of the seat back cushion and the cockpit module. This would almost certainly need some additional foam / support if bad backs were to be avoided. Anyone had any problems like this? -------- Regards Kelv Weston Kit 497 kelv(at)kdweston.biz Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408442#408442 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 11, 2013
From: Jan de Jong <jan_de_jong(at)casema.nl>
Subject: Re: Fuel Flow Meter
I saved a message by Jim Butcher on a blue-mountain-avionics forum where he reported measuring a flow of 41 gph into a bucket. The Rotax 914 installation manual gives 30 gph as the rated flow for 1 pump at 300 hPa (airbox at sea level pressure) to 25 gph at 1000 hPa (airbox at 16000' with full boost). The second pump would increase this by a small amount. Floscan 201A-6 seems marginal, 201B-6 seems better. I bought from Floscan 2 of type 231 ("marine use only"), similar to 201B-6 but heavier (steel). And less expensive. And no fretting with aluminium adapters... Alan, if you have a 914 I believe you might get the 914 installation manual - it has a flow graph for the pump (Pierburg E1F no. 7.21440.78.0). And you might check out the Floscan website. There are 2 aviation pages. Regards, Jan de Jong. On 9/11/2013 7:45 PM, Dean Seitz wrote: > > The 914 does not have a low flow rate. It pumps around 20 gal per hour from the tank and returns all of that minus what the engine used back to the tank. Feed is around 20 gal/hr and return is about 15 gal/hr at cruise. At idle it's almost 20 gal/hr return. > > > ---- David Joyce wrote: >> >> Alan, I go along with that. My 914/twin Floscan set up has >> worked nicely without any sort of jet. The only relevant >> stipulation I can remember is that there should be a >> reasonable length of fairly straight hose leading into >> each Floscan as sharp corners will produce turbulence and >> false readings. One of the key points with the Floscan I >> believe is that even if its spinner jams it will not >> significantly impede flow. It seems a bad idea to put >> anything in the flow if you don't have to. >> Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ >> >> >> "rampil" wrote: >>> >>> >>> Alan, >>> >>> Floscan makes 3 models of the 201 sender for varying >>> expected mean >>> flow rates of gasoline. The appropriate unit for the >>> 914 is the 201A >>> model which handles 0.3 - 30 gal per hour. >>> >>> If a jet is added, at least in my imagination of what a >>> "jet" or orifice might >>> be, it will add turbulence and reduce accuracy of the >>> flow turbine. I could >>> not find a reference to such an addition in the FloScan >>> site. Further, in a >>> 914 application, the meaningful flow regime is roughly 3 >>> - 7 gal/hour, well >>> within the linear range of system. Does it really matter >>> if the measured >>> flow rate at idle power (less than 2 gal/hr) is slightly >>> off? >>> >>> The only place where the flow rates are less than that >>> is in the return line >>> to the tank. In my 912s application, the return flow is >>> unmeasured, but >>> very small, since my measured forward flow rate are >>> right at what Rotax >>> predicts in the manual. It is much less than the LAA >>> posited rate of 0.8 >>> gal/hr through the 0.35mm orifice.This was after I >>> independently >>> calibrated my Floscan at three different flow rates. >>> Perhaps the LAA >>> used a higher than Rotax max pressure head of 5 psi >>> through the orifice? >>> The slight apparent increase in fuel flow rate (by not >>> measuring the return >>> flow and subtracting it in the totalizer) seems to me a >>> a safety feature. >>> >>> BTW, any additional "jet" in the return line, if that is >>> what you were >>> contemplating is a direct violation of the engine >>> install instructions for the >>> 914 which requires a low resistance path bach to the >>> tank after the >>> pressure regulator. >>> >>> The return flow rate situation with the 914 may be a bit >>> different than >>> with the 912s, though the pressures and the return >>> orifice are the same. >>> >>> I recognize that if the LAA tells you that you must have >>> return flow measured, if measuring flow at all, you must >>> comply. >>> >>> It is just my opinion that trying to measure flow rates >>> under 0.5 gal/hr will >>> be inherently inaccurate with the Floscan 201A in an >>> aircraft environment >>> and isnot worth the trouble and expense. On the other >>> hand, many >>> builders have this feature installed. >>> >>> Best of luck! >>> >>> -------- >>> Ira N224XS >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Read this topic online here: >>> >>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408424#408424 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Un/Subscription, >>> Forums! >>> Admin. >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk>
Subject: Re: Fuel Flow Meter
Date: Sep 11, 2013
Jan, I wonder whether he was measuring what came out of the pump, rather than what came back through the return hose with the engine not going, once the fuel had gone through the pressure release valve., which will be quite a bit less I guess. Regards, David Joyce, G- XSDJ Jan de Jong wrote: > > > I saved a message by Jim Butcher on a >blue-mountain-avionics forum where he reported measuring >a flow of 41 gph into a bucket. The Rotax 914 >installation manual gives 30 gph as the rated flow for 1 >pump at 300 hPa (airbox at sea level pressure) to 25 gph >at 1000 hPa (airbox at 16000' with full boost). The >second pump would increase this by a small amount. >Floscan 201A-6 seems marginal, 201B-6 seems better. > I bought from Floscan 2 of type 231 ("marine use only"), >similar to 201B-6 but heavier (steel). And less >expensive. And no fretting with aluminium adapters... > Alan, if you have a 914 I believe you might get the 914 >installation manual - it has a flow graph for the pump >(Pierburg E1F no. 7.21440.78.0). > And you might check out the Floscan website. There are 2 >aviation pages. > Regards, Jan de Jong. > > On 9/11/2013 7:45 PM, Dean Seitz wrote: >> >> >> The 914 does not have a low flow rate. It pumps around >>20 gal per hour from the tank and returns all of that >>minus what the engine used back to the tank. Feed is >>around 20 gal/hr and return is about 15 gal/hr at cruise. >>At idle it's almost 20 gal/hr return. >> >> >> ---- David Joyce wrote: >>> >>> >>> Alan, I go along with that. My 914/twin Floscan set up >>>has >>> worked nicely without any sort of jet. The only relevant >>> stipulation I can remember is that there should be a >>> reasonable length of fairly straight hose leading into >>> each Floscan as sharp corners will produce turbulence >>>and >>> false readings. One of the key points with the Floscan I >>> believe is that even if its spinner jams it will not >>> significantly impede flow. It seems a bad idea to put >>> anything in the flow if you don't have to. >>> Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ >>> >>> >>> "rampil" wrote: >>>> >>>> >>>> Alan, >>>> >>>> Floscan makes 3 models of the 201 sender for varying >>>> expected mean >>>> flow rates of gasoline. The appropriate unit for the >>>> 914 is the 201A >>>> model which handles 0.3 - 30 gal per hour. >>>> >>>> If a jet is added, at least in my imagination of what a >>>> "jet" or orifice might >>>> be, it will add turbulence and reduce accuracy of the >>>> flow turbine. I could >>>> not find a reference to such an addition in the FloScan >>>> site. Further, in a >>>> 914 application, the meaningful flow regime is roughly 3 >>>> - 7 gal/hour, well >>>> within the linear range of system. Does it really matter >>>> if the measured >>>> flow rate at idle power (less than 2 gal/hr) is slightly >>>> off? >>>> >>>> The only place where the flow rates are less than that >>>> is in the return line >>>> to the tank. In my 912s application, the return flow is >>>> unmeasured, but >>>> very small, since my measured forward flow rate are >>>> right at what Rotax >>>> predicts in the manual. It is much less than the LAA >>>> posited rate of 0.8 >>>> gal/hr through the 0.35mm orifice.This was after I >>>> independently >>>> calibrated my Floscan at three different flow rates. >>>> Perhaps the LAA >>>> used a higher than Rotax max pressure head of 5 psi >>>> through the orifice? >>>> The slight apparent increase in fuel flow rate (by not >>>> measuring the return >>>> flow and subtracting it in the totalizer) seems to me a >>>> a safety feature. >>>> >>>> BTW, any additional "jet" in the return line, if that is >>>> what you were >>>> contemplating is a direct violation of the engine >>>> install instructions for the >>>> 914 which requires a low resistance path bach to the >>>> tank after the >>>> pressure regulator. >>>> >>>> The return flow rate situation with the 914 may be a bit >>>> different than >>>> with the 912s, though the pressures and the return >>>> orifice are the same. >>>> >>>> I recognize that if the LAA tells you that you must have >>>> return flow measured, if measuring flow at all, you must >>>> comply. >>>> >>>> It is just my opinion that trying to measure flow rates >>>> under 0.5 gal/hr will >>>> be inherently inaccurate with the Floscan 201A in an >>>> aircraft environment >>>> and isnot worth the trouble and expense. On the other >>>> hand, many >>>> builders have this feature installed. >>>> >>>> Best of luck! >>>> >>>> -------- >>>> Ira N224XS >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Read this topic online here: >>>> >>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408424#408424 >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Un/Subscription, >>>> Forums! >>>> Admin. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > >Un/Subscription, >Forums! >Admin. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuel Flow Meter
From: "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 11, 2013
I defer to those with 914 experience! -------- Ira N224XS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408452#408452 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 11, 2013
From: Richard Holder <richard.holder(at)outlook.com>
Subject: Re: Club clothing
On 14/08/2013 09:27, Steven Pitt wrote: > At the LAA Rally at Sywell, we hope to have some clothing > for sale with the Club emblem (please see website under > sales for the items expected to be on sale). If you would > like to order personalised items, to include the Club logo > and your aircraft registration, then I can arrange this > and save you postage. > Time is short so if anyone is interested contact me off > list to arrange the order and you can save on postage. I > need to order by this weekend to have them at Sywell. > Pilot shirts are 15 > Fleeces are 16 > Polo shirts are 10 > Caps are 9 > See you at the show. > Steve Pitt > Chairman, Europa Club > steven.pitt2(at)ntlworld.com Hi Steve Hope everything went well at Sywell - everything bar my four polos ! Any plans to be passing this way in the near future ? Richard ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 11, 2013
From: Jan de Jong <jan_de_jong(at)casema.nl>
Subject: Re: Fuel Flow Meter
David, "I measured actual fuel flow (ran pump into a bucket) and determined it is 41 gph." The maximum operating flow through the forward flow sensor would be slightly smaller than 41 gph - the difference between 300 hPa and 0 hPa in the pump diagram is between 1 and 2 gph. I agree that the return flow is 0 (engine off) to 10 gph (115%) smaller than the forward flow. Regards, Jan de Jong On 9/11/2013 9:32 PM, David Joyce wrote: > > > Jan, I wonder whether he was measuring what came out of the pump, > rather than what came back through the return hose with the engine not > going, > once the fuel had gone through the pressure release valve., which will > be quite a bit less I guess. > Regards, David Joyce, G- XSDJ > > > Jan de Jong wrote: >> >> I saved a message by Jim Butcher on a blue-mountain-avionics forum >> where he reported measuring a flow of 41 gph into a bucket. The Rotax >> 914 installation manual gives 30 gph as the rated flow for 1 pump at >> 300 hPa (airbox at sea level pressure) to 25 gph at 1000 hPa (airbox >> at 16000' with full boost). The second pump would increase this by a >> small amount. >> Floscan 201A-6 seems marginal, 201B-6 seems better. >> I bought from Floscan 2 of type 231 ("marine use only"), similar to >> 201B-6 but heavier (steel). And less expensive. And no fretting with >> aluminium adapters... >> Alan, if you have a 914 I believe you might get the 914 installation >> manual - it has a flow graph for the pump (Pierburg E1F no. >> 7.21440.78.0). >> And you might check out the Floscan website. There are 2 aviation pages. >> Regards, Jan de Jong. >> >> On 9/11/2013 7:45 PM, Dean Seitz wrote: >>> >>> The 914 does not have a low flow rate. It pumps around 20 gal per >>> hour from the tank and returns all of that minus what the engine >>> used back to the tank. Feed is around 20 gal/hr and return is about >>> 15 gal/hr at cruise. At idle it's almost 20 gal/hr return. >>> >>> >>> ---- David Joyce wrote: >>>> >>>> >>>> Alan, I go along with that. My 914/twin Floscan set up has >>>> worked nicely without any sort of jet. The only relevant >>>> stipulation I can remember is that there should be a >>>> reasonable length of fairly straight hose leading into >>>> each Floscan as sharp corners will produce turbulence and >>>> false readings. One of the key points with the Floscan I >>>> believe is that even if its spinner jams it will not >>>> significantly impede flow. It seems a bad idea to put >>>> anything in the flow if you don't have to. >>>> Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ >>>> >>>> >>>> "rampil" wrote: >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Alan, >>>>> >>>>> Floscan makes 3 models of the 201 sender for varying >>>>> expected mean >>>>> flow rates of gasoline. The appropriate unit for the >>>>> 914 is the 201A >>>>> model which handles 0.3 - 30 gal per hour. >>>>> >>>>> If a jet is added, at least in my imagination of what a >>>>> "jet" or orifice might >>>>> be, it will add turbulence and reduce accuracy of the >>>>> flow turbine. I could >>>>> not find a reference to such an addition in the FloScan >>>>> site. Further, in a >>>>> 914 application, the meaningful flow regime is roughly 3 >>>>> - 7 gal/hour, well >>>>> within the linear range of system. Does it really matter >>>>> if the measured >>>>> flow rate at idle power (less than 2 gal/hr) is slightly >>>>> off? >>>>> >>>>> The only place where the flow rates are less than that >>>>> is in the return line >>>>> to the tank. In my 912s application, the return flow is >>>>> unmeasured, but >>>>> very small, since my measured forward flow rate are >>>>> right at what Rotax >>>>> predicts in the manual. It is much less than the LAA >>>>> posited rate of 0.8 >>>>> gal/hr through the 0.35mm orifice.This was after I >>>>> independently >>>>> calibrated my Floscan at three different flow rates. >>>>> Perhaps the LAA >>>>> used a higher than Rotax max pressure head of 5 psi >>>>> through the orifice? >>>>> The slight apparent increase in fuel flow rate (by not >>>>> measuring the return >>>>> flow and subtracting it in the totalizer) seems to me a >>>>> a safety feature. >>>>> >>>>> BTW, any additional "jet" in the return line, if that is >>>>> what you were >>>>> contemplating is a direct violation of the engine >>>>> install instructions for the >>>>> 914 which requires a low resistance path bach to the >>>>> tank after the >>>>> pressure regulator. >>>>> >>>>> The return flow rate situation with the 914 may be a bit >>>>> different than >>>>> with the 912s, though the pressures and the return >>>>> orifice are the same. >>>>> >>>>> I recognize that if the LAA tells you that you must have >>>>> return flow measured, if measuring flow at all, you must >>>>> comply. >>>>> >>>>> It is just my opinion that trying to measure flow rates >>>>> under 0.5 gal/hr will >>>>> be inherently inaccurate with the Floscan 201A in an >>>>> aircraft environment >>>>> and isnot worth the trouble and expense. On the other >>>>> hand, many >>>>> builders have this feature installed. >>>>> >>>>> Best of luck! >>>>> >>>>> -------- >>>>> Ira N224XS >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Read this topic online here: >>>>> >>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408424#408424 >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Un/Subscription, >>>>> Forums! >>>>> Admin. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> Un/Subscription, >> Forums! >> Admin. >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 12, 2013
From: Keith Hickling <keithhickling(at)clear.net.nz>
Subject: Re: Factory upholstery kit
Hi Kevin, I used the factory upholstery kit. I made a triangular wedge shaped piece of stiff foam rubber to fill in the lower part of the seatback so that in continues the slope of the upper seatback. This is fixed to the seatback with velcro. I made a cutout for the wingpins, and these are then effectively in a recess in this foam and behind the seatback cushion, so they do not protrude into the cushion. The result is quite comfortable. I can't find a photo of the actual foam wedge at the moment, but attach a photo showing the velcro on the seatback where it attaches. Regards, Keith. -------------------------------------------------- From: "Kelvin Weston" <kelv(at)kdweston.biz> Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2013 6:50 AM Subject: Europa-List: Factory upholstery kit > > Hi all > > If anyone has the Europa supplied seat and upholstery kit, I would like > some information regarding the seats. > > How well does the seat back cushion fit around the wing spar pins? and do > the cushions provide support in the lower back area? > > I saw some examples of the seats at the LAA Rally a few weekends ago. The > seat base looks ok but the seat back looks like a very simple flat, > slab-like arrangement. > On returning home and looking at the cockpit module, it would appear that > the back cushion will conflict with and cover the wing spar pins. > Has anybody experienced problems in this area? > > In addition, I was also very aware of the change in angle of the cockpit > module front face. There is a tendency to think of this as a flat face > but there is actually quite a large change of angle. From sitting in the > seat - something I do quite a lot, with associated noises, etc, I have > come to the conclusion that any seat back cushion should follow the > headrest angle down to the seat base. Is that correct? > > This would leave a triangular shaped void between the bottom of the seat > back cushion and the cockpit module. This would almost certainly need > some additional foam / support if bad backs were to be avoided. Anyone > had any problems like this? > > -------- > Regards > > Kelv Weston > Kit 497 > kelv(at)kdweston.biz > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408442#408442 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 11, 2013
Subject: Re: Factory upholstery kit
From: rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us
Hi Kelv If anyone has the Europa supplied seat and upholstery kit, I would like some information regarding the seats. We purchased Factory seat cushions. This was I think in 2007. The fit was not great. I don't know if Europa changed dimensions since then. Here is a link to how my cushions fit when I first got them, you can see the spacer I made out of blue foam and Balsa, you can see how I mutilated the supplied cushion foam. I sent back to Europa and they modified the covers and location of velcro and now all is well, except that my bird is not yet flying. Note that I have long wings too, so the balsa and blue foam will allow for airbrake cable routing as well: http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=86921 Ron Parigoris ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 12, 2013
Subject: Re: Landing Gear Warning SystemLanding Gear Warning System
From: stephan cassel <stephan.cassel(at)gmail.com>
Hi all, I built a Gear Up Warning System for some years ago. Input 1,2: One micro switch mounted on each outrigger locking system. Input 3: One pressure switch mounted on the dynamic pressure hose, same type that is used for the stall warning system. Bought from Europa Aircraft. Pressure switch will turn off below 65 knots. All inputs are connected to a relay via diodes. When all are off (Gear UP and speed below 65 knots): ALARM Micro switch on the outrigger locking system also tell you that the outrigger is locked. Best regards Stephan LN-STE. Norway ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rowland Carson <rowlandcarson(at)gmail.com>
Subject: farm strips guide offered
Date: Sep 12, 2013
I have a 5th edition (one before current) of the Farm Strip Guide. It's available free to anyone who can offer it a good home, or suggestions welcome for how to dispose of it. in friendship Rowland | Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ... | http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk | Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson | pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuel Flow Meter
From: "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net>
Date: Sep 12, 2013
Hello All. Sorry but I may have got into a bit of a muddle over this. 1. At LAA Show Rotax Stand, said the flow rate being pumped around the system on a 914 was about 100 Ltr/Hr.and my sender could cope with measuring up to 136 an hour. Does not fit in with what the Forum are saying, but maybe the bods on the Rotax Stand have it wrong. 2. On Advice from the Rotax Stand, and the MGL Stand, I purchased the Flowscan "A" model 0 to 30 gallons and hour, ("B" modal was 0 to 60 Gph) for larger engines. 3. The MGL instructions referring to installing these in line Jets before the sender, which it clearly states, but give no information on, I believe may be only relating too, and with installing a MGL Flow Sender,!! However I think the whole lot is very poor with the instruction, and what Sender to use. Rotax Stand, Rotax don,t approve of any Flow sender being install in the fuel line, Regards . Alan Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408490#408490 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 12, 2013
Subject: Re: Fuel Flow Meter
From: rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us
Hi Group Curiosity question, has anyone had a Flowscan fuel flow sender fail because of stale auto fuel? Somehow I think I remember pulses are created optically, not magnetically and was always wondering if stale fuel would cloud the optics. If the optics do cloud, is there any procedure to clean? Ron Parigoris ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuel Flow Meter
From: "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net>
Date: Sep 12, 2013
Hi All. MGL. Instructions. It is highly recommended a small jet is installed on engines with low fuel flows. The sender is delivered with a small jet that can be installed in the flow senders inlet, Installation of this jet is recommended with engine with fuel flows less than 30 gal/Hr, this would apply to most small 2 stroke and 4 stroke engines. The FF-1 is shipped with the fuel flow sender calibration set for the jet installation, in a good installation you can expect an accuracy of +- 3% you can calibrate the sender yourself to a higher degree of accuracy if you desire. So it the FF-1 , mentioned here, so what about other makes of senders, does this only apply to the FF-1 ????? Alan Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408495#408495 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuel Flow Meter
From: "Europaul383" <europaul383(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Sep 12, 2013
Maybe try the MGL Knowledge Base http://www.mglavionics.com/kb/ or ask the MGL people if they have install instructions specifically for the Floscan sensor? HTH Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408508#408508 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Landing Gear Warning SystemLanding Gear Warning System
From: "Remi Guerner" <air.guerner(at)orange.fr>
Date: Sep 13, 2013
Stephan, I am interested in this subject as I am planning to install a Smart ass and the associated landing gear warning. In my opinion there is one weakness in your system: if your gear/flap lever is in the down position but not completely pushed to the right the lock is not engaged and your system will not detect it. This "gear down and unlocked" situation happened to me twice recently. Fortunately in both occasions I detected it during the second check and pushed the lever into the locked position before landing. Has anyone fitted a switch which detect the position of the lock? Remi F-PGKL Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408543#408543 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Factory upholstery kit
From: "Kelvin Weston" <kelv(at)kdweston.biz>
Date: Sep 13, 2013
Thanks Keith / Ron You have confirmed my thoughts about the seat back cushion. I spoke with Ingrid at Auto-Trim, the company that makes the factory kit and she sent me this reply regarding the conflict with the wing spar pins: Having seen the aircraft, the position of the pins and the comments from potential customers I have made the decision to modify the pattern and cut away the foam in that area and re shape the cover accordingly. Good to hear, a bit late for those that have already purchased a kit or seats and still doesn't address the potential problem of the gap between the bottom of the seat back and the cockpit module. At the moment, I am investigating some local upholstery businesses to see what they can offer and at what price. Living near to the sailing areas of Portsmouth and The Solent, there are lots of marine upholsterers that have shown an interest. I have also approached some car and vehicle trimmers. To assess what I wanted from the seat cushions, I purchased some foam from a company that will cut any shape and size for you either regular shapes, or to your supplied template. I had some rectangles cut to the required thickness for the main part of the seat base and seat back and also some trapezium and triangle shaped bits for under the knees and as an infill for the gap at the lower back. I glued the various bits together to form the two cushions and cut the back to the headrest shape. They look good even without covers, are really comfortable to sit on and should give me a good template to take to the upholsterer. I will probably substitute some Dynafoam or Confor foam for the seat base in the final configuration. I ordered enough foam for two seats to allow a bit of experimenting and this only cost 20 uk pounds. Well worth the expense and time getting it right if I'm going to spend several hundreds on the final upholstered article. -------- Regards Kelv Weston Kit 497 kelv(at)kdweston.biz Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408544#408544 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Landing Gear Warning SystemLanding Gear Warning System
From: roddyeuropa(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 13, 2013
're- Has anyone fitted a switch which detect the position of the lock?' Yes, I have a small magnet on the gear down latch which activates a magneti c reed switch on the console only when the latch is in the right position. This lights up a green light 'gear down'. I didn't want to use a microswitc h as I thought there was a chance that it could interfere with the latching , which relies of the latch dropping into position under its own (light) we ight. Roddy Kesterton G-IKRK -----Original Message----- From: Remi Guerner <air.guerner(at)orange.fr> Sent: Fri, 13 Sep 2013 9:17 Subject: Europa-List: Re: Landing Gear Warning SystemLanding Gear Warning S ystem Stephan, I am interested in this subject as I am planning to install a Smart ass and the associated landing gear warning. In my opinion there is one weakness in your system: if your gear/flap lever is in the down position but not completely pushed to the right the lock is not engaged and your system will not detect it. This "gear down and unlocked" situation happened to me twice recently. Fortunately in both occasions I detected it during the second check and pushed the lever into the locked position before landing. Has anyone fitted a switch which detect the position of the lock? Remi F-PGKL Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408543#408543 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Landing Gear Warning SystemLanding Gear Warning System
From: "Remi Guerner" <air.guerner(at)orange.fr>
Date: Sep 13, 2013
Roddy, Do you have pictures showing details of your installation? Remi Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408546#408546 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk>
Subject: Re: Landing Gear Warning SystemLanding Gear Warning
System
Date: Sep 13, 2013
Remi, My gear down system, iinked into my SmartASS is triggered by a small micro switch bonded on the bottom of the gear slot so that it only activates when the lever is completely in the detent - foolproof! Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ "Remi Guerner" wrote: > > > Stephan, > I am interested in this subject as I am planning to >install a Smart ass and the associated landing gear >warning. > In my opinion there is one weakness in your system: if >your gear/flap lever is in the down position but not >completely pushed to the right the lock is not engaged >and your system will not detect it. This "gear down and >unlocked" situation happened to me twice recently. >Fortunately in both occasions I detected it during the >second check and pushed the lever into the locked >position before landing. > Has anyone fitted a switch which detect the position of >the lock? > Remi >F-PGKL > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408543#408543 > > > > > > > >Un/Subscription, >Forums! >Admin. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: farm strips guide offered
From: Rowland Carson <rowlandcarson(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 13, 2013
On 12 Sep 2013, at 14:01, Rowland Carson wrote: > I have a 5th edition (one before current) of the Farm Strip Guide. It's available free to anyone who can offer it a good home It's gone! in friendship Rowland | Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ... | http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk | Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson | pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 13, 2013
Subject: Re: Landing Gear Warning SystemLanding Gear Warning
System
From: rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us
Hi Remi Has anyone fitted a switch which detect the position of the lock? I installed a reed switch that detects a magnet in the latch. I detail components in europa owners link on prior e-mail. Ron Parigoris ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: NSI VP Prop
From: "Scudrunner" <howardbrooksster(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 13, 2013
Anyone (in the UK) using the NSI VP prop? I might be able to help you out with spare parts (um not blades though) Howard [Embarassed] Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408555#408555 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Landing Gear Warning SystemLanding Gear Warning System
From: "Remi Guerner" <air.guerner(at)orange.fr>
Date: Sep 14, 2013
Thank you Ron, Roddy and David for your responses. The read switch with the the magnet embedded in the latch as shown in Ron's album is a very clever solution. Remi Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408575#408575 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 14, 2013
From: Thomas Scherer <thomas(at)scherer.com>
Subject: Re: My Longest flight
having changed from webbased mailer to thunderbird as mail client, this is a test to the forum. Was hitherto unable to post to the forum. greetings, Thomas, N81EU -------- Original Message -------- Subject: Re: Fwd: Europa-List: My Longest flight Date: Sat, 07 Sep 2013 17:02:22 +0100 From: Graeme Bird <graeme(at)gdbmk.co.uk> Ha, ha thanks for the email. Why cant you post to forum, company firewall/policy? Regards Graeme On 07/09/2013 11:00, Thomas Scherer wrote: > Graeme, > > long flights are addictive ! Congrats. > > One anectode from my longest flight nonstop Alaska to Japan with 20 hrs and 50 mins: I was on freq 123.45 Mhz which is for air-to-air over the bodies of water. > > Talked to a Northwest Airliner B747 and as I was in the weather asked him when I could expect to break out. Gave him my lat/lon and he told me that 50 nm further I will be in the clear. He asked then when I'd expect Japan. Told him: 14 hrs to go. Quite a surprised voice came back: "what type aircraft are you flying there ?". Told him to be in a little homebuild burning 2.5 gals of fuel an hour. His voice - again puzzled - when he repsonded "Wow, sheeet we're burning 120 gals a minute here". > > As I cannot post to the forum - feel free to relay. > > be well > > > ------------Forwarded message------------ > From: europa-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Sep 4, 2013 04:39:00 PM > Subject: Europa-List: My Longest flight > To: europa-list(at)matronics.com > > > My longest single continuous flight today, 3:20 370nm, 53ltrs. Comfortable enough. Luton over Cader Idris to Bardsley Isle at the end of the Lynn Northwales, back just over Snowden. Fab. > > -------- > Graeme Bird > G-UMPY > Mono Classic/XS 912S/Woodcomp 3000/3W > Newby: 75 hours 18 months > g(at)gdbmk.co.uk > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408021#408021 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04664_1_213.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc043901_112.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc045591_125.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc046101_186.jpg > > ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: europa-List: Re: Factory upholstery kit
Date: Sep 14, 2013
On Sep 13, 2013, at 1:09 AM, Kelvin Weston wrote: > I ordered enough foam for two seats to allow a bit of experimenting and this only cost 20 uk pounds. Well worth the expense and time getting it right if I'm going to spend several hundreds on the final upholstered article. Kelvin...I would urge that you consider using the very special (and quite spendy) temperfoam for the seat bottoms rather than upholstery foam...your tush will be very appreciative. My seat bottoms are 1" of the green "crash foam" (very dense), 1" of blue (less dense), plus triangular wedges of upholstery foam...it could save you some trauma from a hard landing...sorry but I cannot source this material for you. Good luck, Fred ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 14, 2013
From: GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: europa-List: Re: Factory upholstery kit
Fred Klein is right. Soft foam and a hard landing (not damaging the airplan e)=0Awill probably cause serious back injury. Think about it, the foam will still be compressing-=0Aand you are still going down ,when the airplane has started its bounce so you hit the seat base twice as hard.-=0ABest se at cushion is a styoroam bean bag in this situation.=0AGraham=0A=0A________ ________________________=0A From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>=0ATo: europa-list(at)matronics.com =0ASent: Saturday, 14 September 2013, 14:56=0ASu bject: Europa-List: europa-List: Re: Factory upholstery kit=0A =0A=0A=0A=0A =0AOn Sep 13, 2013, at 1:09 AM, Kelvin Weston wrote:=0A=0AI ordered enough foam for two seats to allow a bit of experimenting and this only cost 20 uk pounds. -Well worth the expense and time getting it right if I'm going t o spend several hundreds on the final upholstered article.=0A=0AKelvin...I would urge that you consider using the very special (and quite spendy) temp erfoam for the seat bottoms rather than upholstery foam...your tush will be very appreciative. My seat bottoms are 1" of the green "crash foam" (very dense), 1" of blue (less dense), plus triangular wedges of upholstery foam. ..it could save you some trauma from a hard landing...sorry but I cannot so ======= ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rob Housman" <rob@hyperion-ef.com>
Subject: Re: europa-List: Re: Factory upholstery kit
Date: Sep 14, 2013
Here's some more info on Tempur-Pedic foam. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tempur-Pedic . Best regards, Rob Housman Europa XS A070 Rotax 914 Airframe complete Avionics a work in progress From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Klein Sent: Saturday, September 14, 2013 6:57 AM Subject: Europa-List: europa-List: Re: Factory upholstery kit On Sep 13, 2013, at 1:09 AM, Kelvin Weston wrote: I ordered enough foam for two seats to allow a bit of experimenting and this only cost 20 uk pounds. Well worth the expense and time getting it right if I'm going to spend several hundreds on the final upholstered article. Kelvin...I would urge that you consider using the very special (and quite spendy) temperfoam for the seat bottoms rather than upholstery foam...your tush will be very appreciative. My seat bottoms are 1" of the green "crash foam" (very dense), 1" of blue (less dense), plus triangular wedges of upholstery foam...it could save you some trauma from a hard landing...sorry but I cannot source this material for you. Good luck, Fred ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 14, 2013
From: Jan de Jong <jan_de_jong(at)casema.nl>
Subject: Re: europa-List: Re: Factory upholstery kit
Aircraft Spruce has pieces on page 29 of the catalogue as follows: 1" x 16" x 18" .........................P/N 01-09310 ........................ $23.50 ea. 2" x 16" x 18" .........................P/N 01-09320 ........................ $45.75 ea. 3" x 16" x 18" .........................P/N 01-09300 ........................ $74.75 ea. On 9/14/2013 8:36 PM, Rob Housman wrote: > > Here's some more info on Tempur-Pedic foam. > > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tempur-Pedic > > . > > Best regards, > > Rob Housman > > Europa XS A070 > > Rotax 914 > > Airframe complete > > Avionics a work in progress > > *From:*owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Fred Klein > *Sent:* Saturday, September 14, 2013 6:57 AM > *To:* europa-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* Europa-List: europa-List: Re: Factory upholstery kit > > On Sep 13, 2013, at 1:09 AM, Kelvin Weston wrote: > > > I ordered enough foam for two seats to allow a bit of experimenting > and this only cost 20 uk pounds. Well worth the expense and time > getting it right if I'm going to spend several hundreds on the final > upholstered article. > > Kelvin...I would urge that you consider using the very special (and > quite spendy) temperfoam for the seat bottoms rather than upholstery > foam...your tush will be very appreciative. My seat bottoms are 1" of > the green "crash foam" (very dense), 1" of blue (less dense), plus > triangular wedges of upholstery foam...it could save you some trauma > from a hard landing...sorry but I cannot source this material for you. > > Good luck, > > Fred > > * * > * * > ** > ** > ** > ** > ** > *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List* > *< - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -* > ** > *http://forums.matronics.com* > ** > ** > ** > ** > *http://www.matronics.com/contribution* > ** > * * > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 14, 2013
Subject: Re: europa-List: Re: Factory upholstery kit
From: rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us
Hi Group I don't have personal experience flying in colder weather with temperfoam, but Richard who flies a Europa upstate NY got rid of his because it got too hard for his likes in the cold. Ron Parigoris ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk>
Subject: Re: My Longest flight
Date: Sep 15, 2013
Thomas, Received on forum and a big welcome back, David Joyce, G-XSDJ Thomas Scherer wrote: > having changed from webbased mailer to thunderbird as >mail client, this is a test to the forum. Was hitherto >unable to post to the forum. > > greetings, Thomas, N81EU > > > -------- Original Message -------- > Subject: Re: Fwd: Europa-List: My Longest flight > Date: Sat, 07 Sep 2013 17:02:22 +0100 >From: Graeme Bird <graeme(at)gdbmk.co.uk> > To: thomas(at)scherer.com > > > > Ha, ha thanks for the email. Why cant you post to forum, >company > firewall/policy? > > Regards Graeme > > On 07/09/2013 11:00, Thomas Scherer wrote: >> Graeme, >> >> long flights are addictive ! Congrats. >> >> One anectode from my longest flight nonstop Alaska to >>Japan with 20 hrs and 50 mins: I was on freq 123.45 Mhz >>which is for air-to-air over the bodies of water. >> >> Talked to a Northwest Airliner B747 and as I was in the >>weather asked him when I could expect to break out. Gave >>him my lat/lon and he told me that 50 nm further I will >>be in the clear. He asked then when I'd expect Japan. >>Told him: 14 hrs to go. Quite a surprised voice came >>back: "what type aircraft are you flying there ?". Told >>him to be in a little homebuild burning 2.5 gals of fuel >>an hour. His voice - again puzzled - when he repsonded >>"Wow, sheeet we're burning 120 gals a minute here". >> >> As I cannot post to the forum - feel free to relay. >> >> be well >> >> >> >> >> >> ------------Forwarded message------------ >> From: europa-list(at)matronics.com >> Date: Sep 4, 2013 04:39:00 PM >> Subject: Europa-List: My Longest flight >> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com >> >>graeme(at)gdbmk.co.uk> >> >> My longest single continuous flight today, 3:20 370nm, >>53ltrs. Comfortable enough. Luton over Cader Idris to >>Bardsley Isle at the end of the Lynn Northwales, back >>just over Snowden. Fab. >> >> -------- >> Graeme Bird >> G-UMPY >> Mono Classic/XS 912S/Woodcomp 3000/3W >> Newby: 75 hours 18 months >> g(at)gdbmk.co.uk >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408021#408021 >> >> >> >> >> Attachments: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04664_1_213.jpg >> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc043901_112.jpg >> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc045591_125.jpg >> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc046101_186.jpg >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: europa-List: Re: Factory upholstery kit
From: Richard Iddon <riddon(at)sent.com>
Date: Sep 15, 2013
I had a similar experience. Couldn't sit on it for more than an hour without my nether regions going numb. Richard Iddon G-RIXS On 14 Sep 2013, at 20:36, rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us wrote: > Hi Group > > I don't have personal experience flying in colder weather with temperfoam, but Richard who flies a Europa upstate NY got rid of his because it got too hard for his likes in the cold. > > Ron Parigoris > > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List > > http://forums.matronics.com > > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 15, 2013
From: GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: My Longest flight
Thomas=0Agood to see you back! How is Camaroon?=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A__________ ______________________=0A From: David Joyce <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk>=0AT o: europa-list(at)matronics.com =0ASent: Sunday, 15 September 2013, 8:42=0ASub ject: Re: Europa-List: My Longest flight=0A =0A=0A--> Europa-List message p osted by: "David Joyce" =0A=0AThomas, Received o n forum and a big welcome back, David Joyce, G-XSDJ=0A=0A=0AOn Sat, 14 Sep changed from webbased mailer to thunderbird as mail client, this is a test to the forum. Was hitherto unable to post to the forum.=0A> =0A> greetings , Thomas, N81EU=0A> =0A> =0A> -------- Original Message --------=0A> Subjec t: --- Re: Fwd: Europa-List: My Longest flight=0A> Date: --- Sa .co.uk>=0A> To: --- thomas(at)scherer.com=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> Ha, ha than ks for the email. Why cant you post to forum, company=0A> firewall/policy? =0A> =0A> Regards Graeme=0A> =0A> On 07/09/2013 11:00, Thomas Scherer wrote :=0A>> Graeme,=0A>> =0A>> long flights are addictive ! Congrats.=0A>> =0A>> One anectode from my longest flight nonstop Alaska to Japan with 20 hrs an d 50 mins: I was on freq 123.45 Mhz which is for air-to-air over the bodies of water.=0A>> =0A>> Talked to a Northwest Airliner B747 and as I was in t he weather asked him when I could expect to break out. Gave him my lat/lon and he told me that 50 nm further I will be in the clear. He asked then whe n I'd expect Japan. Told him: 14 hrs to go. Quite a surprised voice came ba ck: "what type aircraft are you flying there ?". Told him to be in a little homebuild burning 2.5 gals of fuel an hour. His voice - again puzzled - wh en he repsonded "Wow, sheeet we're burning 120 gals a minute here".=0A>> =0A>> As I cannot post to the forum - feel free to relay.=0A>> =0A>> be wel l=0A>> =0A>> =0A>> =0A>> =0A>> =0A>> ------------Forwarded message--------- ---=0A>> From: europa-list(at)matronics.com=0A>> Date: Sep 4, 2013 04:39:00 PM =0A>> Subject: Europa-List: My Longest flight=0A>> To: europa-list@matronic bmk.co.uk>=0A>> =0A>> My longest single continuous flight today, 3:20 370nm , 53ltrs. Comfortable enough. Luton over Cader Idris to Bardsley Isle at th e end of the Lynn Northwales, back just over Snowden. Fab.=0A>> =0A>> ----- ---=0A>> Graeme Bird=0A>> G-UMPY=0A>> Mono Classic/XS 912S/Woodcomp 3000/3W =0A>> Newby: 75 hours 18 months=0A>> g(at)gdbmk.co.uk=0A>> =0A>> =0A>> =0A> > =0A>> Read this topic online here:=0A>> =0A>> http://forums.matronics.com /viewtopic.php?p=408021#408021=0A>> =0A>> =0A>> =0A>> =0A>> Attachments: =0A>> =0A>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04664_1_213.jpg=0A>> http ://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc043901_112.jpg=0A>> http://forums.matroni cs.com//files/dsc045591_125.jpg=0A>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc 046101_186.jpg=0A>> =0A>> =0A>> =0A>> =0A>> =0A>> =0A>> =0A>> =0A> =0A> =0A > =0A> -----=0A> No virus found in this message.=0A> Checked by AVG - www.a = ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Impact absorbing foam and reed switches
From: alan.twigg775(at)gmail.com
Date: Sep 15, 2013
The online shop for the British Gliding Association sells seat sized pieces of both densities of foam. The BGA strongly recommend impact absorbing foam, which to my knowledge has saved many backs. BGA site is www.gliding.co.uk On reed switches, I had a wiring system designed for Tim Houlahan by Robin Morton. This employs micro switches but I scratched my head raw trying to get the down latch to strike a switch. My other requirement was to hide the switches in the tunnel. The solution that worked has a reed switch supported in paxolene shaped within the tunnel, with several disc magnets within a hole at the lower most point the latch falls. Having really struggled to repair a broken cable, I have built the whole set of switches onto a module that mounts on the screws used to mount the aluminium undercarriage gate. Since I have Motorglider wings this is enlarged to accommodate the airbrake lever. I will try to attach photos when I work out how. Alan Twigg (Twiggy) Motorglider kit 463. Wings ready to fill Panel built engine and prop (Airmaster) on. Fuselage just about ready to paint. Completion possibly before Motorglider approved in UK. Sent from my iPhone ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 15, 2013
From: GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: europa-List: Re: Factory upholstery kit
that's the advantage of a bean bag, just shuffle a bit and the shape adjust s=0Ato the new profile of your backside. In a bump the beans crush and abso rb energy.=0AThat came from Farnborough via the BGA donkeys years ago.=0AGr aham=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0A From: Richard Iddon <riddo n(at)sent.com>=0ATo: europa-list(at)matronics.com =0ASent: Sunday, 15 September 2 013, 9:27=0ASubject: Re: Europa-List: europa-List: Re: Factory upholstery k om>=0A=0AI had a similar experience. Couldn't sit on it for more than an ho ur without my nether regions going numb.=0A=0ARichard Iddon =0A=0AG-RIXS=0A On 14 Sep 2013, at 20:36, rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us wrote:=0A=0A> Hi Group =0A> =0A> I don't have personal experience flying in colder weather with te mperfoam, but Richard who flies a Europa upstate NY got rid of his because it got too hard for his likes in the cold.=0A> =0A> Ron Parigoris=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List=0A> =0A> http://fo rums.matronics.com=0A> =0A> http://www.matronics.com/contribution=0A> =0A> =========================0A =================== ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: europa-List: Re: Factory upholstery kit
From: Richard Iddon <riddon(at)sent.com>
Date: Sep 15, 2013
Do you have a source for a small bean bag Graham or is it a case of DIY? I just googled it and could only find giant things. Richard On 15 Sep 2013, at 10:18, GRAHAM SINGLETON wrote: > that's the advantage of a bean bag, just shuffle a bit and the shape adjusts > to the new profile of your backside. In a bump the beans crush and absorb energy. > That came from Farnborough via the BGA donkeys years ago. > Graham > > From: Richard Iddon <riddon(at)sent.com> > To: europa-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Sunday, 15 September 2013, 9:27 > Subject: Re: Europa-List: europa-List: Re: Factory upholstery kit > > > I had a similar experience. Couldn't sit on it for more than an hour without my nether regions going numb. > > Richard Iddon > > G-RIXS > On 14 Sep 2013, at 20:36, rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us wrote: > > > Hi Group > > > > I don't have personal experience flying in colder weather with temperfoam, but Richard who flies a Europa upstate NY got rid of his because it got too hard for his likes in the cold. > > > > Ron Parigoris > > > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List > > > > http://forums.matronics.com > > > > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigatorsp; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "richard" <rcollings(at)talktalk.net>
Subject: Re: Factory upholstery kit
Date: Sep 15, 2013
Hi Kelvin I found the solution to your problem was to make two cushion shaped seat backs in 3mm ply wood. I covered both sides with bid and re-enforced with 2 lengths of 1/2 inch tube approx 12 inches apart running down about 12 inches of the back surface and extending about 1 inches from the bottom edge. I made 2 holes in the 3mm ply wood seat floor for the extended re-enforcement tubes to locate at an angle that best suited my comfort and cut out the profile of the wing pins on each side . I just lay the seat cushion back up against these back rests and hold them in place with the Velcro flap at the top and the seat cushion at the base, problem solved. It would be possible to add further holes in the seat base to alter the seat position but I have not found it necessary. Best of luck Richard -----Original Message----- From: Kelvin Weston Sent: Friday, September 13, 2013 9:09 AM Subject: Europa-List: Re: Factory upholstery kit on.biz> Thanks Keith / Ron You have confirmed my thoughts about the seat back cushion. I spoke with Ingrid at Auto-Trim, the company that makes the factory kit and she sent me this reply regarding the conflict with the wing spar pins: Having seen the aircraft, the position of the pins and the comments from potential customers I have made the decision to modify the pattern and cut away the foam in that area and re shape the cover accordingly. Good to hear, a bit late for those that have already purchased a kit or seats and still doesn't address the potential problem of the gap between the bottom of the seat back and the cockpit module. At the moment, I am investigating some local upholstery businesses to see what they can offer and at what price. Living near to the sailing areas of Portsmouth and The Solent, there are lots of marine upholsterers that have shown an interest. I have also approached some car and vehicle trimmers. To assess what I wanted from the seat cushions, I purchased some foam from a company that will cut any shape and size for you either regular shapes, or to your supplied template. I had some rectangles cut to the required thickness for the main part of the seat base and seat back and also some trapezium and triangle shaped bits for under the knees and as an infill for the gap at the lower back. I glued the various bits together to form the two cushions and cut the back to the headrest shape. They look good even without covers, are really comfortable to sit on and should give me a good template to take to the upholsterer. I will probably substitute some Dynafoam or Confor foam for the seat base in the final configuration. I ordered enough foam for two seats to allow a bit of experimenting and this only cost 20 uk pounds. Well worth the expense and time getting it right if I'm going to spend several hundreds on the final upholstered article. -------- Regards Kelv Weston Kit 497 kelv(at)kdweston.biz Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408544#408544 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: europa-List: Re: Factory upholstery kit
From: "AirEupora" <AirEupora(at)sbcglobal.net>
Date: Sep 15, 2013
I bought the foam for my seats at the following URL: > http://www.seatfoam.com/aviation.htm They have three different firmness and they are heat activated. Just like ski boots. It a little on the pricey side, but they work. I need to put a lumbar support on my airplane and one more layer of the dense foam as I'll hit bottom after an hour of flight time. There are three colors . Pink real soft, green middle and then the hard Blue. I'm 250 lbs and I fly in a warm climate. Rick Stockton N120EJ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408625#408625 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Seat backs
From: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 16, 2013
Gidday, Considering seating solutions I was wondering if anyone has an opinion on whether there might be an argument to take a plaster moulding of my back, then laying it up with cloth, then applying a suitable depth of foam to that plug, and then re-laying more cloth on-top of that. This way you get an insert that has your upholstery attached that you can drop in, and the plan is to then pack it out appropriately. Would that be a worthy strategy, or am I thinking too much? It might be a bit limiting for wriggle room I suppose, but as I see it, there isn't much wiggle room anyway. I'm interested in the bean bag solution, but I have never sat in one that was initially comfortable, and I don't know how you could contain the beads such that they didn't migrate. So, any opinions on my attempts to "redesign the wheel" ? I would love to find a product, a spray foam, that would go off quickly and then be shapeable. It would be great to be able to use a spray foam as a template-able material. If there is anything out there that can do that, I'd love to know. Regards Tony Renshaw Sydney Aussie ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: europa-List: Re: Factory upholstery kit
From: "Dave Disney" <davedisney(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Date: Sep 16, 2013
I need an additional cushion to raise my height in the aircraft so I have been following this thread with interest. There is a company in the UK that appears to supply just the sort of cushions that I am looking for. http://www.qbitus.co.uk/ If you click on the green tab on the right hand side for the 'Dynamic Range', there is an interesting write up that includes reference to the thermo-reactive problems of some foam products. I haven't contacted the company yet to discuss my needs, but there may be some interesting information on their site for others with regards to different types of foam products and their attributes. Dave G-RJWX Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408653#408653 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Seat backs
From: Alan Burrill <alanb(at)dpy01.co.uk>
Date: Sep 16, 2013
As far as the shape of the setback to clear the spar pins mine has a clear curved hardback which clears the pins and provides a firm base for the foam for the back. It also offer s a little Lumbar support. The seat cushion insert is the 'absorbing foam material which is a little hard after a long flight and I'm looking to try and provide more thigh support to take the pressure off and spread the load a little better. No idea of the manufacture but I did let the Yorkshire lass at the LAA Rally Tent have a look to see if it helped her seat design. As far as shaping seats to persons profile I remember once watching a program on formula one cars and they had the driver sit in a mould while they pumped in a foam to get the exact shape required - sorry don't have any details other than that. Alan G-OBJT On 16 Sep 2013, at 09:31, Tony Renshaw wrote: > > Gidday, > Considering seating solutions I was wondering if anyone has an opinion on whether there might be an argument to take a plaster moulding of my back, then laying it up with cloth, then applying a suitable depth of foam to that plug, and then re-laying more cloth on-top of that. This way you get an insert that has your upholstery attached that you can drop in, and the plan is to then pack it out appropriately. Would that be a worthy strategy, or am I thinking too much? It might be a bit limiting for wriggle room I suppose, but as I see it, there isn't much wiggle room anyway. I'm interested in the bean bag solution, but I have never sat in one that was initially comfortable, and I don't know how you could contain the beads such that they didn't migrate. So, any opinions on my attempts to "redesign the wheel" ? I would love to find a product, a spray foam, that would go off quickly and then be shapeable. It would be great to be able to use a spray foam as a template-able materia! > l. If there is anything out there that can do that, I'd love to know. > Regards > Tony Renshaw > Sydney Aussie > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 16, 2013
From: GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: europa-List: Re: Factory upholstery kit
Dave=0Aa deep soft cushion WILL cause injury in a moderately heavy landing. =0AGraham=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0A From: Dave Disney <da vedisney(at)yahoo.co.uk>=0ATo: europa-list(at)matronics.com =0ASent: Monday, 16 S eptember 2013, 9:56=0ASubject: Europa-List: europa-List: Re: Factory uphols ney(at)yahoo.co.uk>=0A=0AI need an additional cushion to raise my height in th e aircraft so I have been following this thread with interest.=0A=0AThere i s a company in the UK that appears to supply just the sort of cushions that I am looking for. =0A=0Ahttp://www.qbitus.co.uk/=0A=0AIf you click on the green tab on the right hand side for the 'Dynamic Range', there is an inter esting write up that includes reference to the thermo-reactive problems of some foam products.=0A=0AI haven't contacted the company yet to discuss my needs, but there may be some interesting information on their site for othe rs with regards to different types of foam products and their attributes. =0A=0ADave=0AG-RJWX=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp:// forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408653#408653=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A =============== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Brian Davies <brian.davies(at)clara.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Seat backs
Date: Sep 16, 2013
Tony Take a look at www. Demon-tweaks.co.uk and look up expanding foam seat kit. I have used this in racing car and makes an exact foam shape of your body. I am not sure of the practicality of in a Europa because it be could uncomfortable for any one else who sat in the seat. Regards Brian Davies Sent from my iPad On 16 Sep 2013, at 09:31, Tony Renshaw wrote: > > Gidday, > Considering seating solutions I was wondering if anyone has an opinion on whether there might be an argument to take a plaster moulding of my back, then laying it up with cloth, then applying a suitable depth of foam to that plug, and then re-laying more cloth on-top of that. This way you get an insert that has your upholstery attached that you can drop in, and the plan is to then pack it out appropriately. Would that be a worthy strategy, or am I thinking too much? It might be a bit limiting for wriggle room I suppose, but as I see it, there isn't much wiggle room anyway. I'm interested in the bean bag solution, but I have never sat in one that was initially comfortable, and I don't know how you could contain the beads such that they didn't migrate. So, any opinions on my attempts to "redesign the wheel" ? I would love to find a product, a spray foam, that would go off quickly and then be shapeable. It would be great to be able to use a spray foam as a template-able materia! > l. If there is anything out there that can do that, I'd love to know. > Regards > Tony Renshaw > Sydney Aussie > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 16, 2013
From: GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Seat backs
Tony=0Ayour idea is a good starting point. The trick with bean bags is that they have to be only half full so that the beans can wriggle too. They don 't migrate through normal upholstery fabric.=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_______ _________________________=0A From: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268(at)gmail.com> =0ATo: europa-list(at)matronics.com =0ASent: Monday, 16 September 2013, 9:31 =0ASubject: Europa-List: Seat backs=0A =0A=0A--> Europa-List message posted by: Tony Renshaw =0A=0AGidday,=0AConsidering sea ting solutions I was wondering if anyone has an opinion on whether there mi ght be an argument to take a plaster moulding of my back, then laying it up with cloth, then applying a suitable depth of foam to that plug, and then re-laying more cloth on-top of that. This way you get an insert that has yo ur upholstery attached that you can drop in, and the plan is to then pack i t out appropriately. Would that be a worthy strategy, or am I thinking too much? It might be a bit limiting for wriggle room I suppose, but as I see i t, there isn't much wiggle room anyway. I'm interested in the bean bag solu tion, but I have never sat in one that was initially comfortable, and I don 't know how you could contain the beads such that they didn't migrate. So, any opinions on my attempts to "redesign the wheel" ? I would love to find a product, a spray foam, that would go off quickly and then be shapeable. I t would be great to be able to use a spray foam as a template-able materia!=0Al. If there is anything out there that can do tha t, I'd love to know. =0ARegards=0ATony Renshaw=0ASydney Aussie=0A=0A=0A=0A_ -======================== ============== ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: europa-List: Re: Factory upholstery kit
From: "h&jeuropa" <butcher43(at)att.net>
Date: Sep 16, 2013
We chose Oregon Aero for our seat cushions. They have years of experience engineering seats that are comfortable and provide safety in the event of hard landing / crash. They now have a pattern for the Europa XS, with cut outs for the spar pins. They sent us the cushions to try before upholstering. They can do upholstery or you can have a local person do it. They also sold us lightweight, aircraft quality (fire resistant) carpet which we cut & finished for our interior. We actually had 3 sets made - one for each seat plus a "booster" that can be used in pilot or co-pilot side (since Heather couldn't reach pedals / see out to land with normal seats). It works well for taking Young Eagles also. Seats are very comfortable. When it is cold out, they initially feel hard, but within minutes you don't even notice the seat. Most of our flights are 2-3 hours, and it can be very cold in Michigan & at altitude. We've flown from Michigan to Colorado and Arizona (6-7 hours in a day). Absolutely no back pain or discomfort in flight and after arriving. People complain that they are expensive, but between comfort & knowing that they will protect in the event of hard landing, we think they are the best way to go for seats. Jim & Heather Butcher N241BW 485 hrs Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408660#408660 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: europa-List: Re: Factory upholstery kit
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Date: Sep 16, 2013
An excellent description and documentation of a Europa seat upholstery method can be found at: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/justin@systemwise.co.uk.05.07.2007/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Seat backs
From: "flyingphil2" <flyingphil627-europastuff(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Date: Sep 16, 2013
When I used to work in F1, we would have people come round to help with the seat fitting for the new drivers. The procedure was to get the driver to sit in their preferred position whilst sitting on a bag full of polystyrene beads and resin (it may have been more glamorous than that - just to get the price up to F1 standards). Once they had sat there for a while and it had cured, the bag could then be taken away and used as a mould to make a padded seat from. So, all of the ideas so far and the link to demon tweaks are similar to this and would achieve the same end result. Regards, Phil Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408670#408670 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: The Weather
From: "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net>
Date: Sep 16, 2013
Hi All. The Met Office have given themselves 1000000 bonus for predicting the weather this year, Is, ant this what they are employed to do, or am I missing something. Crazy country. Alan Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408687#408687 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Raimo Toivio" <raimo.toivio(at)rwm.fi>
Subject: Re: Fuel return line one-way-valve
Date: Sep 16, 2013
Hi Ron, I try to elaborate this a bit: Think what happen if you will get a leak to this line. Return fuel is then coming out from engine as well as direct from the tank by gravity. Remember =93 if installed as per manual =93 a fuel return line is connected to the reserve side bottom of the tank. Even worse scenario: during succesful forced landing your ac will suffer minor damages to the fire wall etc. Before landing you have closed as per POH your fuel valve but you have no valve in the fuel return line. If it is broken your tank will go empty under you. Maybe you are not able to escape in time. How is then sitting as jammed in the ac, listening fuel splitting out and waiting the possible flames? Of course it is possible to have also a manual fuel valve in the return line also. Intead of that one-way-valve is automatic and works well if located as close as possible from the tank. Before installing my one-way-valve I closed the entire fuel return line and I did not noticed any difference (there is a risk for a vapour lock /fire upp engine difficulties when semi warm and reserve side of the tank is then also not refreshed ie. always full). If I were building now, I would like to instal the fuel return line joint to the top of the tank instead of the bottom of it. That=C2=B4s bad only if you are inverted...and damaging the ac same time. How was my elaboration? Cheers, Raimo Toivio Europa XS Mono OH-XRT #417 Updated flight hours /landings: 376 /604 (no damaged props so far) 37500 Lempaala FINLAND p +358-3-3753 777 f +358-3-3753 100 www.rwm.fi From: rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us Sent: Friday, September 06, 2013 5:21 AM Subject: Re: Europa-List: Fuel filters Hi Raimo You mentioned: Notice: - Adding one-way-valve to the fuel return line (idea by Frans Veldman) is a great must (and mandatory at least for me). Can you elaborate a little on why you might want to put a one-way-valve on the fuel return line? Is this for a 914 fuel system? Thx. Ron Parigoris ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Seat backs
From: "graeme bird" <graeme(at)gdbmk.co.uk>
Date: Sep 16, 2013
Maybe I am a Philistine; I just used 2" memory foam (blue) with a 6mm ply base and back to match the headrest angle. It adapts to your shape, its absorbs energy, I cant feel the spar pins, its square shape was easy to upholster. I used 3" for the seat, 2 blue and one pink. Just a rectangle. I cant see how it could be more comfortable. Dont forget you will be taking them in and out a lot and putting your muddy feet on them and kneeling on them too. I was very impressed with the upholstery for Europas at the LAA Rally though for 400 quid though -------- Graeme Bird G-UMPY Mono Classic/XS 912S/Woodcomp 3000/3W Newby: 75 hours 18 months g(at)gdbmk.co.uk Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408692#408692 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Raimo Toivio" <raimo.toivio(at)rwm.fi>
Subject: Re: Texel weather ,,,......
Date: Sep 16, 2013
Yes it definetely was - below windmills - and both directions from and to the East. We elected to climb to the clouds and relax in IMC. Marke and Raimo OH-XRT -----Alkuper=E4inen viesti----- From: David Joyce Sent: Friday, September 06, 2013 11:23 AM Subject: Re: Europa-List: Texel weather ,,,...... Bob, Thanks. Could you be really helpful and post a local METAR at say 8.30 local tomorrow for the sake of those contemplating Sat arrival. The forecasts look generally good apart from RASP predictions which seem to suggest a cloudbase something below windmill height! Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ "Bob Harrison" wrote: > Hi! Just to be helpful........I can confirm that > the weather here is hot and > humid with wall to wall blue sky.........what is > it > > Cavok...... > > Regards > > Bob Harrison G-PTAG > browse Un/Subscription, FAQ, http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List Forums! List Admin. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268(at)gmail.com>
Subject: =?windows-1252?Q?Instrument_Panel_Sub_Panel_Setup=85=2E=2ERunner?=
=?windows-1252?Q?s=3F_?
Date: Sep 17, 2013
Gidday, I am interested in advice on what might be considered the best setup for the instrument panel, in terms of ease of maintenance, removal etc. I am wondering if the main sub panel could be removable forward on runners, like drawer sliders? Big aircraft have these, as was my misfortune one day to realise when I grabbed the two foot rests D rings either side of the panel and pulled to give my shoulders a stretch, but little did I know that during maintenance the locking screws had not been actuated, and the whole panel came forward up to the back of the control column! I looked at the other guy with shock, and just gently eased it back in place, hoping nothing had, or would disconnect in the process. Yes, we were airborne! It left an indelible memory, but has inspired me as to whether such a setup could work on the Europa. This idea is borne out of imagining how unwieldy it might be with all the weight aft of the sub panel, to remove it forward easily, especially with plumbing attached. Runners would make it a lot easier. If there is other options for these sub panels I'd appreciate knowing, or whether my anxieties are unfounded. Thanks in anticipation. Regards Tony Renshaw Sydney Aussie ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeremy Fisher <jffisher(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: europa-List: Re: Factory upholstery kit
Date: Sep 16, 2013
Let me emphasize the importance of using a Temperfoam or Comforfoam seat bottom cushion. Two years ago I flew my Lancair 360 when the engine quit after only 8 hours from new, because the fuel transfer system failed. I had to deadstick into a small field. A Lancair glides like a brick so I had a long flare at the bottom. According to the FAA, I clipped a tall tree, which caused me to land in a horizontal attitude, but with a very high descent rate, and little forward speed. =46rom my experience with ejection seats, I estimate that I pulled between 25 and 30 Gs. It was enough to snap the main spar, break the crankshaft and break off the rear fuselage. I survived with relatively minor injuries, broken ribs, two broken teeth and a very badly sprained neck. I believe that this was due to two things. I had used Temperfoam with all 3 grades of hardness for the seat cushions, and I had repositioned the upper seatbelt attachment points to the upper fuselage just behind the canopy. The original seatbelt point is below the pilot's shoulder level and well back, so that there is always some slack left, and it will increase the likelihood of spinal injury. If I had used ordinary upholstery foam, I think that I would have broken my spine. Ordinary foam would have rebounded and increased the stress on my back. As it was, I lost one full inch in height as the discs all compressed. The original seat belt location would also have increased the spinal loading. As it was the belt held rock solid, and I just had bad bruising. Now that I am building a Europa, I see the same issues, especially the upper seat belt mounting position. As you can guess, I am using Temperfoam and have repositioned the upper belt mountings in a similar way to that done by Frans Veldmann. I don't care if the seat feels hard (it didn't), I want the protection. As a slightly amusing side effect, I used to have a bad back, and occasionally a slipped disc. Since the crash, my bad back is almost cured, with no slipped discs; but I don't recommend it as a treatment! Jerry Fisher On Sep 14, 2013, at 2:21 PM, GRAHAM SINGLETON wrote: Fred Klein is right. Soft foam and a hard landing (not damaging the airplane) will probably cause serious back injury. Think about it, the foam will still be compressing and you are still going down ,when the airplane has started its bounce so you hit the seat base twice as hard. Best seat cushion is a styoroam bean bag in this situation. Graham From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com> Sent: Saturday, 14 September 2013, 14:56 Subject: Europa-List: europa-List: Re: Factory upholstery kit On Sep 13, 2013, at 1:09 AM, Kelvin Weston wrote: > I ordered enough foam for two seats to allow a bit of experimenting and this only cost 20 uk pounds. Well worth the expense and time getting it right if I'm going to spend several hundreds on the final upholstered article. Kelvin...I would urge that you consider using the very special (and quite spendy) temperfoam for the seat bottoms rather than upholstery foam...your tush will be very appreciative. My seat bottoms are 1" of the green "crash foam" (very dense), 1" of blue (less dense), plus triangular wedges of upholstery foam...it could save you some trauma from a hard landing...sorry but I cannot source this material for you. Good luck, Fred http://www.matronics.com/Naviet="_blank" href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics-> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: europa-List: Re: Factory upholstery kit
Date: Sep 16, 2013
On Sep 16, 2013, at 7:41 PM, Jeremy Fisher wrote: > I had used Temperfoam with all 3 grades of hardness for the seat cushions, and I had repositioned the upper seatbelt attachment points to the upper fuselage just behind the canopy. The original seatbelt point is below the pilot's shoulder level and well back, so that there is always some slack left, and it will increase the likelihood of spinal injury. Jeremy...as you're no doubt aware, the standard shoulder belt on the Europa is at or below shoulder height and is apt to contribute to spinal compression in a hard landing. I've raised mine w/ a hinged riser as shown in the attached photos...I've stress-tested them to 15 Gs w/ no collapse or deformation...the hinge allows for the normal "sitting on the raised seat back" method for entering and exiting a XS mono...no change in shoulder belt attach point. The last photo shows my layers of blue and green Temperfoam, augmented w/ regular upholstery foam wedges...note the ends of the lumbar support visable at the seat back...backs are propped in place w/ blocks of pink styrofoam. Fred ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: f-8?Q?Re:_Europa-List:_Inst?= =?utf-8?Q?rument_Panel_Sub_Pane?=
=?utf-8?Q?l_Setup..Runners=3F?
From: roddyeuropa(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 17, 2013
Hi Tony I installed a sub panel for the six standard instruments. The instruments w ere installed in a 3 mm aluminum plate, a hole cut to that size and the su b panel attached to the main panel by six countersunk machine screws. The s ub pane is installed flush with the main panel - I added a narrow fiberglas s backing strip, and the sub panel screws into anchor nuts - the type with the two holes for the pop rivets on the same side. Qutie a tight fit for a mono panel, but just about room. All the instruments have connectors - incl uding the pitot static, which means you can get the sub panel out in about 5 minutes. It has worked well. It makes it easier to take the main panel in and out as you have 1) a big hole through which you can work behind the pa nel and 2) when you take the panel in and out, quite a lot of the weight ha s already been removed. if I did it all again, 10 years on, I wouldn't be i nstalling gyro instruments, but would still go for a sub panel. Roddy Kesterton G-IKRK -----Original Message----- From: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268(at)gmail.com> Sent: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 1:24 Subject: Europa-List: Instrument Panel Sub Panel Setup..Runners? Gidday, I am interested in advice on what might be considered the best setup for th e instrument panel, in terms of ease of maintenance, removal etc. I am wonder ing if the main sub panel could be removable forward on runners, like drawer sliders? Big aircraft have these, as was my misfortune one day to realise w hen I grabbed the two foot rests D rings either side of the panel and pulled to g ive my shoulders a stretch, but little did I know that during maintenance the locking screws had not been actuated, and the whole panel came forward up t o the back of the control column! I looked at the other guy with shock, and just gently eased it back in place, hoping nothing had, or would disconnect in t he process. Yes, we were airborne! It left an indelible memory, but has inspir ed me as to whether such a setup could work on the Europa. This idea is borne out of imagining how unwieldy it might be with all the weight aft of the sub panel , to remove it forward easily, especially with plumbing a! ttached. Runners would make it a lot easier. If there is other options for these sub panels I'd appreciate knowing, or whether my anxieties are unfounded. Thanks in anticipation. Regards Tony Renshaw Sydney Aussie ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 17, 2013
From: GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: =?utf-8?B?UmU6IEV1cm9wYS1MaXN0OiBJbnN0cnVtZW50IFBhbmVsIFN1YiBQYW5lbCBT?=
=?utf-8?B?ZXR1cOKApi4uUnVubmVycz8g? Tony=0Aexcellent idea to think about this. I've been working on an old Clas sic and several times wanted to check things =0Abehind the panel. Accessibi lity on a standard plans built Europa is a long way from being good. Factor y was so =0Astressed at design time that they laft all that to we builders and there were a few good ideas tried.=0AOne I haven't seen is a hinge at t he bootom of the panel.=0AMost important is to keep it light, early panel i nstallations with a lot of steam age stuff in them weighed anything =0Aup t o 40lbs!=0ADigital stuff has made it a lot easier and engine management sys tems ease the workload of single crew VFR.=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_________ _______________________=0A From: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268(at)gmail.com>=0A y, 17 September 2013, 1:23=0ASubject: Europa-List: Instrument Panel Sub Pan ny Renshaw =0A=0AGidday,=0AI am interested in adv ice on what might be considered the best setup for the instrument panel, in terms of ease of maintenance, removal etc. I am wondering if the main sub panel could be removable forward on runners, like drawer sliders? Big aircr aft have these, as was my misfortune one day to realise when I grabbed the two foot rests D rings either side of the panel and pulled to give my shoul ders a stretch, but little did I know that during maintenance the locking s crews had not been actuated, and the whole panel came forward up to the bac k of the control column! I looked at the other guy with shock, and just gen tly eased it back in place, hoping nothing had, or would disconnect in the process. Yes, we were airborne! It left an indelible memory, but has inspir ed me as to whether such a setup could work on the Europa. This idea is bor ne out of imagining how unwieldy it might be with all the weight aft of the sub panel, to remove it forward easily, especially with plumbing a!=0Attached. Runners would make it a lot easier. =0AIf there is other options for these sub panels I'd appreciate knowing, or whether my anxieties are unfounded.=C2- Thanks in anticipation.=0ARega =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2 ================= ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: f-8?Q?Re:_Europa-List:_Instrument_Panel_Sub_Panel_Setup?= =?utf-8?Q?..Runners=3F_?
From: Donald Cameron <fireflier(at)btinternet.com>
Date: Sep 17, 2013
Hi I went down the route of aluminium sub panels screwed into anchor nuts which were riveted onto a 15mm edge all the way around my panel cut outs. Below i s photo of my panel with the sub panels cut out and mounted, then another on e with the completed panel with instruments installed. This set up is very easy to remove if required for maintenance just undo sec uring screws and panel pulls out giving plenty of access to work in behind p anel. Kind regards Donald Sent from my iPhone On 17 Sep 2013, at 01:23, Tony Renshaw wrote: > > Gidday, > I am interested in advice on what might be considered the best setup for t he instrument panel, in terms of ease of maintenance, removal etc. I am wond ering if the main sub panel could be removable forward on runners, like draw er sliders? Big aircraft have these, as was my misfortune one day to realise when I grabbed the two foot rests D rings either side of the panel and pull ed to give my shoulders a stretch, but little did I know that during mainten ance the locking screws had not been actuated, and the whole panel came forw ard up to the back of the control column! I looked at the other guy with sho ck, and just gently eased it back in place, hoping nothing had, or would dis connect in the process. Yes, we were airborne! It left an indelible memory, b ut has inspired me as to whether such a setup could work on the Europa. This idea is borne out of imagining how unwieldy it might be with all the weight aft of the sub panel, to remove it forward easily, especially with plumbing a! > ttached. Runners would make it a lot easier. > If there is other options for these sub panels I'd appreciate knowing, or w hether my anxieties are unfounded. Thanks in anticipation. > Regards > Tony Renshaw > Sydney Aussie > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > > >

      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: My Longest flight
From: "goff" <goffmoore(at)aviators.net>
Date: Sep 17, 2013
Great photos. Goff Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408722#408722 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 17, 2013
From: GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: europa-List: Re: Factory upholstery kit
Fred=0Alooking brilliant! Make sure you don't make my mistake and finish it when you're =0Atoo old (and unrich) to fly it!=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A____ ____________________________=0A From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com> =0ATo: europa-list(at)matronics.com =0ASent: Tuesday, 17 September 2013, 5:13 =0ASubject: Re: Europa-List: europa-List: Re: Factory upholstery kit=0A =0A =0A=0A=0A=0AOn Sep 16, 2013, at 7:41 PM, Jeremy Fisher wrote:=0A=0AI had us ed Temperfoam with all 3 grades of hardness for the seat cushions, and I ha d repositioned the upper seatbelt attachment points to the upper fuselage j ust behind the canopy. -The original seatbelt point is below the pilot's shoulder level and well back, so that there is always some slack left, and it will increase the likelihood of spinal injury.=0A=0AJeremy...as you're n o doubt aware, the standard shoulder belt on the Europa is at or below shou lder height and is apt to contribute to spinal compression in a hard landin g. I've raised mine w/ a hinged riser as shown in the attached photos...I'v e stress-tested them to 15 Gs w/ no collapse or deformation...the hinge all ows for the normal "sitting on the raised seat back" method for entering an d exiting a XS mono...no change in shoulder belt attach point.=0A=0AThe las t photo shows my layers of blue and green Temperfoam, augmented w/ regular upholstery foam wedges...note the ends of the lumbar support visable at the seat back...backs are propped in place w/ blocks of pink styrofoam.=0A=0AF red ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 17, 2013
From: "nigel_graham@m-tecque.co.uk" <nigel_graham@m-tecque.co.uk>
Subject: You have been warned .....(off topic)
;-) Nigel ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeremy Fisher <jffisher(at)gmail.com>
Subject: =?windows-1252?Q?Re=3A_Europa-List=3A_Re=3A_Europa-List=3A_Instr?=
=?windows-1252?Q?ument_Panel_Sub_Panel_Setup=85=2E=2ERunners=3F_?
Date: Sep 17, 2013
Graham, Do you mean like this? Photo is of my instrument panel ready for installations. Both sides are hinged, with 2 Camloc fasteners for each side; both are hinged, with one shown closed and the other open. Opening one takes 10 seconds. Jerry Fisher On Sep 17, 2013, at 5:00 AM, GRAHAM SINGLETON wrote: > Tony > excellent idea to think about this. I've been working on an old Classic and several times wanted to check things > behind the panel. Accessibility on a standard plans built Europa is a long way from being good. Factory was so > stressed at design time that they laft all that to we builders and there were a few good ideas tried. > One I haven't seen is a hinge at the bootom of the panel. > Most important is to keep it light, early panel installations with a lot of steam age stuff in them weighed anything > up to 40lbs! > Digital stuff has made it a lot easier and engine management systems ease the workload of single crew VFR. > Graham > > > From: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268(at)gmail.com> > To: "europa-list(at)matronics.com" > Sent: Tuesday, 17 September 2013, 1:23 > Subject: Europa-List: Instrument Panel Sub Panel Setup=85..Runners? > > > Gidday, > I am interested in advice on what might be considered the best setup for the instrument panel, in terms of ease of maintenance, removal etc. I am wondering if the main sub panel could be removable forward on runners, like drawer sliders? Big aircraft have these, as was my misfortune one day to realise when I grabbed the two foot rests D rings either side of the panel and pulled to give my shoulders a stretch, but little did I know that during maintenance the locking screws had not been actuated, and the whole panel came forward up to the back of the control column! I looked at the other guy with shock, and just gently eased it back in place, hoping nothing had, or would disconnect in the process. Yes, we were airborne! It left an indelible memory, but has inspired me as to whether such a setup could work on the Europa. This idea is borne out of imagining how unwieldy it might be with all the weight aft of the sub panel, to remove it forward easily, especially with plumbing a! > ttached. Runners would make it a lot easier. > If there is other options for these sub panels I'd appreciate knowing, or whether my anxieties are unfounded. Thanks in anticipation. > Regards > Tony Renshaw > Sydney Aussie > > > > ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List" target="_blank">htronics.com/" = --> > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Sub Panels....thanks
Date: Sep 18, 2013
> Thank you for the replies regarding sub panels, Graham and co. I get the single consolidated list Digest email which unfortunately does not have the photos, but I know there is some way to dig them out of the web, so I'm off to try and find them. Meanwhile I'll give this whole sub panel stuff some serious thought. Regards Tony Renshaw ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Airworld fuel gauge sealing - what to use
From: "graeme bird" <graeme(at)gdbmk.co.uk>
Date: Sep 18, 2013
I fitted the airworld fuel gauge a while back and when the tank is up to the top of the tube it seeps at the screw heads and round the top of the tank. I spoke to airworld and they said to take each screw out and apply some automotive gasket compound. I brought some fuel resistant hylotyte from hylomar. Has anyone had a similar experience? The design seems bound to fail as the fuel is surely going to seep through the threads. Also tightening is going to just crush the poly tank. -------- Graeme Bird G-UMPY Mono Classic/XS 912S/Woodcomp 3000/3W Newby: 75 hours 18 months g(at)gdbmk.co.uk Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408792#408792 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Airworld fuel gauge sealing - what to use
From: Rowland Carson <rowlandcarson(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 18, 2013
On 18 Sep 2013, at 19:25, graeme bird wrote: > I fitted the airworld fuel gauge a while back and when the tank is up to the top of the tube it seeps at the screw heads and round the top of the tank. I spoke to airworld and they said to take each screw out and apply some automotive gasket compound. I brought some fuel resistant hylotyte from hylomar. Has anyone had a similar experience? The design seems bound to fail as the fuel is surely going to seep through the threads. Also tightening is going to just crush the poly tank. Graeme - I have not yet tested the fuel-tightness of my tank, but I did pressurise it as much as my lungs would allow while observing for bubbles in washing-up liquid wiped around the likely areas of escape (old bicycle tube puncture finding technique). I had sealed around my Mod 60 tank probe with Loctite 5922, which I got from Grampian Fasteners. It was recommended to me by Brian Fogg, who said that smearing it around the flange of the sender had cured the cockpit fuel smell he'd had for a long time. He got his from Halfords, but my local branch never seemed to be able to get any in stock. Hope this helps. in friendship Rowland | Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ... | http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk | Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson | pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 18, 2013
From: GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Airworld fuel gauge sealing - what to use
Roqland=0Ause Hylomar Blue, Rolls Royce use it on their engines so it must be good.=0AShould find it locally.=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_________________ _______________=0A From: Rowland Carson <rowlandcarson(at)gmail.com>=0ATo: eur opa-list(at)matronics.com =0ASent: Wednesday, 18 September 2013, 19:48=0ASubje ct: Re: Europa-List: Airworld fuel gauge sealing - what to use=0A =0A=0A--> Europa-List message posted by: Rowland Carson =0A =0AOn 18 Sep 2013, at 19:25, graeme bird wrote:=0A=0A> I fitted the airworl d fuel gauge a while back and when the tank is up to the top of the tube it seeps- at the screw heads and round the top of the tank. I spoke to airw orld and they said to take each screw out and apply some automotive gasket compound. I brought some fuel resistant hylotyte from hylomar. Has anyone h ad a similar experience? The design seems bound to fail as the fuel is sure ly going to seep through the threads. Also tightening is going to just crus h the poly tank.=0A=0AGraeme - I have not yet tested the fuel-tightness of my tank, but I did pressurise it as much as my lungs would allow while obse rving for bubbles in washing-up liquid wiped around the likely areas of esc ape (old bicycle tube puncture finding technique). I had sealed around my M od 60 tank probe with Loctite 5922, which I got from Grampian Fasteners. It was recommended to me by Brian Fogg, who said that smearing it around the flange of the sender had cured the cockpit fuel smell he'd had for a long t ime. He got his from Halfords, but my local branch never seemed to be able to get any in stock.=0A=0AHope this helps.=0A=0Ain friendship=0A=0ARowland =0A=0A| Rowland Carson- - - - - ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ... =0A| - - - - - - http://www.rowlandcar son.org.uk=0A| Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson- - - Facebook: Rowland Carson=0A| pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson=0A=0A=0A=0A_ -======================== ============== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Pattinson" <carl(at)flyers.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Airworld fuel gauge sealing - what to use
Date: Sep 18, 2013
Just be aware that any excess compound may get into the fuel system and could result in a filter blockage. We used a silicone gasket sealant to seal the fuel float gauge on my previous kit aircraft (Shadow) and it broke off into the fuel forming perfect jelly like spheres which blocked the fuel line. Engine stopped at 2,000 ft - fortunately we were within gliding range of the field. I appreciate Hylomar is different (ie: not silicone) but needs to be used sparingly. I have used Red Hermetite to seal fuel connections in the past and it will form a fuel proof seal. -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of graeme bird Sent: 18 September 2013 19:26 Subject: Europa-List: Airworld fuel gauge sealing - what to use I fitted the airworld fuel gauge a while back and when the tank is up to the top of the tube it seeps at the screw heads and round the top of the tank. I spoke to airworld and they said to take each screw out and apply some automotive gasket compound. I brought some fuel resistant hylotyte from hylomar. Has anyone had a similar experience? The design seems bound to fail as the fuel is surely going to seep through the threads. Also tightening is going to just crush the poly tank. -------- Graeme Bird G-UMPY Mono Classic/XS 912S/Woodcomp 3000/3W Newby: 75 hours 18 months g(at)gdbmk.co.uk Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408792#408792 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)talktalk.net>
Subject: Airworld fuel gauge sealing - what to use
Date: Sep 18, 2013
Hi! All/Graham,/Roland Fuel system sealant. Yes, Graham is right , Hylomar is a product made under licence from Rolls Royce who developed it, I worked there and it was mandatory . However it only requires a very thin but positive film, no globules should be allowed to be ingested into the live fuel system and definitely allow 10 minutes for the solvent to evapourate before assembly of the flanges/ threads. Had some taken out by my mini Andair gascolator filter mesh and wondered what it was for a while. Regards Bob Harrison G-PTAG From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of GRAHAM SINGLETON Sent: 18 September 2013 20:01 Subject: Re: Europa-List: Airworld fuel gauge sealing - what to use Roqland use Hylomar Blue, Rolls Royce use it on their engines so it must be good. Should find it locally. Graham _____ From: Rowland Carson <rowlandcarson(at)gmail.com> Sent: Wednesday, 18 September 2013, 19:48 Subject: Re: Europa-List: Airworld fuel gauge sealing - what to use On 18 Sep 2013, at 19:25, graeme bird wrote: > I fitted the airworld fuel gauge a while back and when the tank is up to the top of the tube it seeps at the screw heads and round the top of the tank. I spoke to airworld and they said to take each screw out and apply some automotive gasket compound. I brought some fuel resistant hylotyte from hylomar. Has anyone had a similar experience? The design seems bound to fail as the fuel is surely going to seep through the threads. Also tightening is going to just crush the poly tank. Graeme - I have not yet tested the fuel-tightness of my tank, but I did pressurise it as much as my lungs would allow while observing for bubbles in washing-up liquid wiped around the likely areas of escape (old bicycle tube puncture finding technique). I had sealed around my Mod 60 tank probe with Loctite 5922, which I got from Grampian Fasteners. It was recommended to me by Brian Fogg, who said that smearing it around the flange of the sender had cured the cockpit fuel smell he'd had for a long time. He got his from Halfords, but my local branch never seemed to be able to get any in stock. Hope this helps. in friendship Rowland | Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ... | http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk <http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk/> | Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson | pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pete Lawless" <pete(at)lawless.info>
Subject: Airworld fuel gauge sealing - what to use
Date: Sep 18, 2013
Graeme I don't know what you are screwing into but on my fuel gauge set up I have sealed anchor nuts on the tank side. Basically it is a standard anchor nut with a plastic(?) fuel proof cover over the nut. Got the nuts from LAS. Pete -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of graeme bird Sent: 18 September 2013 19:26 Subject: Europa-List: Airworld fuel gauge sealing - what to use I fitted the airworld fuel gauge a while back and when the tank is up to the top of the tube it seeps at the screw heads and round the top of the tank. I spoke to airworld and they said to take each screw out and apply some automotive gasket compound. I brought some fuel resistant hylotyte from hylomar. Has anyone had a similar experience? The design seems bound to fail as the fuel is surely going to seep through the threads. Also tightening is going to just crush the poly tank. -------- Graeme Bird G-UMPY Mono Classic/XS 912S/Woodcomp 3000/3W Newby: 75 hours 18 months g(at)gdbmk.co.uk Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408792#408792 -- This message has been scanned for viruses and dangerous content by MailScanner, and is believed to be clean. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 19, 2013
Subject: Re: Fuel return line one-way-valve
From: rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us
Hi Raimo Thx. for your elaboration. From what you wrote, you must have a 912S? The 914 returns a lot of fuel to the tank compared to the 912S. By returning fuel to the top of the tank, I think I remember reading it may not be a great idea to let fuel (especially auto fuel) cascade as I think it may somehow accelerate spoiling the fuel? Did you ever hear of this? I suppose could put a dip tube to the bottom of the tank to prevent this? On the 914 you don't want much in the way of back pressure as it can cause problems with proper functioning of the fuel pressure regulator. Ron Parigoris Hi Ron, > > I try to elaborate this a bit: > > Think what happen if you will get a leak to this line. Return fuel is then > coming out from engine as well as direct from the tank by gravity. > Remember €“ if installed as per manual €“ a fuel return line is > connected to the reserve side bottom of the tank. > > Even worse scenario: during succesful forced landing your ac will suffer > minor damages to the fire wall etc. Before landing you have closed as per > POH your fuel valve but you have no valve in the fuel return line. If it > is broken your tank will go empty under you. Maybe you are not able to > escape in time. How is then sitting as jammed in the ac, listening fuel > splitting out and waiting the possible flames? > > Of course it is possible to have also a manual fuel valve in the return > line also. Intead of that one-way-valve is automatic and works well if > located as close as possible from the tank. > > Before installing my one-way-valve I closed the entire fuel return line > and I did not noticed any difference (there is a risk for a vapour lock > /fire upp engine difficulties when semi warm and reserve side of the tank > is then also not refreshed ie. always full). > > If I were building now, I would like to instal the fuel return line joint > to the top of the tank instead of the bottom of it. Thats bad only if > you are inverted...and damaging the ac same time. > > How was my elaboration? > > > > Cheers, Raimo Toivio > > > > Europa XS Mono OH-XRT #417 > > Updated flight hours /landings: 376 /604 > > (no damaged props so far) > > 37500 Lempaala > FINLAND > > p +358-3-3753 777 > f +358-3-3753 100 > > www.rwm.fi > > > > > > From: rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us > Sent: Friday, September 06, 2013 5:21 AM > To: Europa > Subject: Re: Europa-List: Fuel filters > > Hi Raimo > > You mentioned: > > Notice: > > - Adding one-way-valve to the fuel return line > (idea by Frans Veldman) is a great must (and > mandatory at least for me). > Can you elaborate a little on why you might want to put a one-way-valve on > the fuel return line? Is this for a 914 fuel system? > > Thx. > > Ron Parigoris > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 19, 2013
From: Frans Veldman <frans(at)privatepilots.nl>
Subject: Re: Fuel return line one-way-valve
On 09/19/2013 07:07 AM, rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us wrote: > The 914 returns a lot of fuel to the tank compared to the 912S. By I have a 914 AND I have a one-way-valve in the fuel return line. No problems, although with the engine at idle the fuel pressure tends to climb to the upper edge of the green zone of my fuel differential pressure gauge. But maybe that would even be the case without the one way valve. At anything else than idle the fuel pressure is in about the middle of the green zone. > I think I remember reading it may > not be a great idea to let fuel (especially auto fuel) cascade as I > think it may somehow accelerate spoiling the fuel? Did you ever hear of > this? I have the same fear. Remember the returning fuel has an increased temperature (might even be hot) due to its travel through the heated engine bay, pumps, pressure regulator, etc! That's the reason why we have a fuel return line after all; by keeping more flow in the system than the engine requires we prevent vapor lock. Fuel consists of many components, and they all vaporize at a different rate. It doesn't feel right to have hot fuel cascading downwards from the top of the tank, splattering around, having its components vaporize partly, then condensing against the cold tank walls, and dripping into the fuel pool again. Also the surrounding oxigen together with the high temperature of the return fuel vapor might oxidize some of the fuel components at an increased rate. We all know that fresh fuel is different than "old" fuel and elevated temperatures and lots of contact with oxigen might play a role in this "aging" process. My feeling is that it is healthier to arrest the returning fuel immediately on arrival in a pool of cold fuel without letting it get into contact with air and oxigen first. For what it is worth, I try to use Mogas as much as possible, even when flying in the French Alps (around FL100), have done this dozens of times (Ilona's parents live there so we tend to visit them often with our little aircraft) and I never had any problems with the fuel. Maybe it just helps to keep the fuel temps down and not inviting too much interaction with oxigen molecules. > I suppose could put a dip tube to the bottom of the tank to > prevent this? So then what would be the point to route the fuel to the top of the tank first while there is a shorter route to the same spot? > On the 914 you don't want much in the way of back pressure > as it can cause problems with proper functioning of the fuel pressure > regulator. One more reason to feed the fuel back at the underside of the tank. Shorter hose, and less elevation of the fuel required to deliver it where it ends up anyway. Of course, a one way valve gives some resistance, but apparently it is not too much. A valve can fail, but the most dangerous fail is when it remains shut. If this happens, you will discover it during engine start up. With the low fuel demand during that stage there is much return flow, and if the valve stays shut it will quickly flood the engine (apart from your fuel pressure needle pegging against the stop) Once open, it seems utterly unlikely that the valve will spontaneously close against the fuel pressure during flight. Once open, it will stay open as long as fuel pressure is pushing against it and holding it there. It gives some piece of mind that there is not an unclosable fuel hose going to the engine bay. If the hose breaks, the fuel flow will stop by itself. Frans ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Raimo Toivio" <raimo.toivio(at)rwm.fi>
Subject: Re: Fuel return line one-way-valve
Date: Sep 19, 2013
Hi Frans, you are absolutely as right ******as usually********* (ask Ilona about these stars ;) but still I am brave enough to consider that fuel will not be significantly "aged" when dropping or in fact spraying it from top of the tank. That spray will contact air just a split second during the drop distance from 0 to max say 40 cm. Notice you will use this fuel in hours or at least mix it soon to the fresh fuel when refueling again. Anyway - if you have a manual tap or an automatic one-way-valve - there is no reason to instal it (a return line) to the top of the tank. BTW have you any idea what=B4s a typical fuel temperature rise from the tank outlet to the tank inlet? My guess is it is just couple of degrees only or even zero - flow rate is so high. Anyway - thanks you helped me/us to understand that return line potential danger IN TIME (and to do something to it). Among us is living at least one person who would have been very happy about that extra valve during his awful incident (IMHO). Funny, we (me & my wife) feel comfortable over the shoreless sea or in the most thickiest cloud but so far we cannot even think about flying VFR over hostile & high terrain like Ilona=B4s parent=B4s Alps. I understand it=B4s just our lack of information. And also lack of turbo, oxygen and BRS... Raimo HA-MDO http://www.flyfinland.fi/view/10153/ OH-XRT http://www.flyfinland.fi/view/9490/ -----Alkuper=E4inen viesti----- From: Frans Veldman Sent: Thursday, September 19, 2013 11:55 AM Subject: Re: Europa-List: Fuel return line one-way-valve On 09/19/2013 07:07 AM, rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us wrote: > The 914 returns a lot of fuel to the tank > compared to the 912S. By I have a 914 AND I have a one-way-valve in the fuel return line. No problems, although with the engine at idle the fuel pressure tends to climb to the upper edge of the green zone of my fuel differential pressure gauge. But maybe that would even be the case without the one way valve. At anything else than idle the fuel pressure is in about the middle of the green zone. > I think I remember reading it may > not be a great idea to let fuel (especially auto > fuel) cascade as I > think it may somehow accelerate spoiling the > fuel? Did you ever hear of > this? I have the same fear. Remember the returning fuel has an increased temperature (might even be hot) due to its travel through the heated engine bay, pumps, pressure regulator, etc! That's the reason why we have a fuel return line after all; by keeping more flow in the system than the engine requires we prevent vapor lock. Fuel consists of many components, and they all vaporize at a different rate. It doesn't feel right to have hot fuel cascading downwards from the top of the tank, splattering around, having its components vaporize partly, then condensing against the cold tank walls, and dripping into the fuel pool again. Also the surrounding oxigen together with the high temperature of the return fuel vapor might oxidize some of the fuel components at an increased rate. We all know that fresh fuel is different than "old" fuel and elevated temperatures and lots of contact with oxigen might play a role in this "aging" process. My feeling is that it is healthier to arrest the returning fuel immediately on arrival in a pool of cold fuel without letting it get into contact with air and oxigen first. For what it is worth, I try to use Mogas as much as possible, even when flying in the French Alps (around FL100), have done this dozens of times (Ilona's parents live there so we tend to visit them often with our little aircraft) and I never had any problems with the fuel. Maybe it just helps to keep the fuel temps down and not inviting too much interaction with oxigen molecules. > I suppose could put a dip tube to the bottom of > the tank to > prevent this? So then what would be the point to route the fuel to the top of the tank first while there is a shorter route to the same spot? > On the 914 you don't want much in the way of > back pressure > as it can cause problems with proper functioning > of the fuel pressure > regulator. One more reason to feed the fuel back at the underside of the tank. Shorter hose, and less elevation of the fuel required to deliver it where it ends up anyway. Of course, a one way valve gives some resistance, but apparently it is not too much. A valve can fail, but the most dangerous fail is when it remains shut. If this happens, you will discover it during engine start up. With the low fuel demand during that stage there is much return flow, and if the valve stays shut it will quickly flood the engine (apart from your fuel pressure needle pegging against the stop) Once open, it seems utterly unlikely that the valve will spontaneously close against the fuel pressure during flight. Once open, it will stay open as long as fuel pressure is pushing against it and holding it there. It gives some piece of mind that there is not an unclosable fuel hose going to the engine bay. If the hose breaks, the fuel flow will stop by itself. Frans browse Un/Subscription, FAQ, http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List Forums! List Admin. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 19, 2013
From: Frans Veldman <frans(at)privatepilots.nl>
Subject: Re: Fuel return line one-way-valve
On 09/19/2013 06:43 PM, Raimo Toivio wrote: > you are absolutely as right > > ******as usually********* > > (ask Ilona about these stars ;) I will do! > but still I am brave enough to consider that fuel will not be > significantly "aged" when dropping or in fact spraying it from top of > the tank. That spray will contact air just a split second during the > drop distance from 0 to max say 40 cm. Well, ever noticed in the shower how much the water cools down in the same distance? It is pure interaction with the surrounding air... > Notice you will use this fuel in > hours I often park my airplane with the tank about half filled. > BTW have you any idea whats a typical fuel temperature rise from the > tank outlet to the tank inlet? My guess is it is just couple of degrees > only or even zero - flow rate is so high. I don't know. But even it it were at room temperature I wouldn't think that repeatedly cascading it down would do any good to its composition. > Anyway - thanks you helped me/us to understand that return line > potential danger IN TIME (and to do something to it). Among us is living > at least one person who would have been very happy about that extra > valve during his awful incident (IMHO). It was at that moment of the incident I was installing the fuel hoses and indeed considered that I didn't want to go that same route. > Funny, we (me & my wife) feel comfortable over the shoreless sea or in > the most thickiest cloud but so far we cannot even think about flying > VFR over hostile & high terrain like Ilonas parents Alps. This gets interesting. The places we feel incomfortable is when flying in Scandinavia. With an almost blank GPS screen, and hours of flying above just rocks, ice and maybe some trees (if you are not too far north) beneath you. I've never observed an almost blank GPS screen, except in Scandinavia, and I've never seen such strectched areas where you can't find a landing area of 200 meters without hitting at least a car sized rock. At our return flight from the North cape, at about 2am in daylight conditions (for you not amazing but for the majority of pilots it is) we were flying above terrain that looked very hostile and didn't change for two hours. In these two hours we didn't see any road, house, or whatever human structure. We felt very alone and wondered if in case we would have to carry out a forced landing (between the endless rocks) whether anybody would ever find our remains. Don't get me wrong, I found it absolutely beautifull, very serene, the midnight sun, the small amount of haze, the reddish sky, the blueish light surrounding you and the absolute silence (radio contact got lost very soon). Even while the engine was dutyfully whirring you could sense the silence around you. And then to see a moon rise just in front of you. Priceless. Then the Alps. Chances are big that if you look down at any spot you will find an airfield beneath you. The mountains look agressive, but so much cultivated that there is always some pasture, road, or anything within gliding distance. There are plenty of shallow slopes. I guess it is difficult to land uphill but of course it means that once in the landing flare you will very quickly come to a halt. If in doubt, just land uphill and gently fall down when your speed reaches zero just above the tree tops. I haven't seen much of these escape possibilities in Scandinavia. The terrain, although filled with enormous rocks, is most of the time very shallow. And even if you were to survive such a landing, you will freeze to death, eaten by wolves or bears (no beers unfortunately!) before someone finds you. If something is left at all. Anyway, you are invited. If you want to go to the Alps, just let us know. We can guide you in and probably offer some accommodation. Frans ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 19, 2013
Subject: Re: Fuel return line one-way-valve
From: rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us
Hi Frans Thx. for the reply. If there is a trauma to the return line, we want the break or leak to occur upstream of the 1 way return valve (closder to the fuel pressure regulator). Did you do anything to stack the cards in favor when the engine gets ripped off that the 1 way return valve stays connected to the fuel tank? Ron Parigoris ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 19, 2013
From: Frans Veldman <frans(at)privatepilots.nl>
Subject: Re: Fuel return line one-way-valve
On 09/19/2013 07:00 PM, rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us wrote: > Hi Frans > > Thx. for the reply. > > If there is a trauma to the return line, we want the break or leak to > occur upstream of the 1 way return valve (closder to the fuel pressure > regulator). > > Did you do anything to stack the cards in favor when the engine gets > ripped off that the 1 way return valve stays connected to the fuel tank? Good to mention this! I have the one way valve very close to the fuel outlet. The rest of the hose is securely tied to the aircraft at numerous places before it enters the cowling. I'm quite confident that if the engine gets ripped off the one way valve stays connected to the fuel tank. Frans ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rowland Carson <rowlandcarson(at)gmail.com>
Subject: toroids for vhf comms aerial cable
Date: Sep 20, 2013
Annex C of my manual calls out 4-off toroids to fit on the RG-58 coax cable adjacent to the dipole tapes. The part number given is Philips 4330 030 34420, but this now appears to be made of unobtainium. Does anyone know of an equivalent ferric toroid currently available? RS list hundreds; obviously it needs to have a central hole of a suitable size for RG-58 (or probably RG-400 in my case) to pass through, but what about the other dimensions, and the magnetic characteristics? It's not clear whether the toroids are fitted to act as a filter, as tuning, or as a balun. If, as I suspect, the latter, the magnetic characteristics are likely to be more critical. in friendship Rowland | Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ... | http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk | Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson | pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 20, 2013
From: Frans Veldman <frans(at)privatepilots.nl>
Subject: Re: toroids for vhf comms aerial cable
On 09/20/2013 10:34 AM, Rowland Carson wrote: > RS list hundreds; obviously it needs to have a central hole of a suitable size for RG-58 (or probably RG-400 in my case) to pass through, but what about the other dimensions, and the magnetic characteristics? It's not clear whether the toroids are fitted to act as a filter, as tuning, or as a balun. If, as I suspect, the latter, the magnetic characteristics are likely to be more critical. The torroids are there do make it clear to the electrons where the border is between the outer surface of the coax and the antenna leg connected to it. Without the torroids it is just one long piece of conductor. It is not that critical though, but without these torroids you will get more radiation from the cable itself and it will pick up more noise from the surroundings of the cable, and since this is an airplane packed with lots of electronic stuff you will want to prevent that. The magnetic properties of the torroids are critical indeed. I don't have a list or manual, part numbers have been disappeared from memory long time ago, but you obviously need to find something suitable for the intended frequency range (100-150 MHz). Some googling is in order here. Or ask a local radio amateur club, the popular 2m-band (144 MHz) is close to the aircraft frequencies and what will work for them will work for you too. Changes are that someone has a box full of these things on his bench and is happy to share a few. As an alternative you can coil up a part of the coax close to the antenna, but this is heavier. Frans ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Pattinson" <carl(at)flyers.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: toroids for vhf comms aerial cable
Date: Sep 20, 2013
As I recall Rowland, any old toroid is suitable. I think we used ones sourced from Maplin or Tandy and they appear to work fine. Being a non-technical type I haven't got an idea if the exact specification was critical. -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rowland Carson Sent: 20 September 2013 09:34 Subject: Europa-List: toroids for vhf comms aerial cable --> Annex C of my manual calls out 4-off toroids to fit on the RG-58 coax cable adjacent to the dipole tapes. The part number given is Philips 4330 030 34420, but this now appears to be made of unobtainium. Does anyone know of an equivalent ferric toroid currently available? RS list hundreds; obviously it needs to have a central hole of a suitable size for RG-58 (or probably RG-400 in my case) to pass through, but what about the other dimensions, and the magnetic characteristics? It's not clear whether the toroids are fitted to act as a filter, as tuning, or as a balun. If, as I suspect, the latter, the magnetic characteristics are likely to be more critical. in friendship Rowland | Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ... | http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk | Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson | pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 20, 2013
From: GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: toroids for vhf comms aerial cable
Rowland=0Athey are to form a balun, Fergus Kyle will probably know the answ ers you want,=0Ahe won't be up yet (Ontario)=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_______ _________________________=0A From: Frans Veldman <frans(at)privatepilots.nl> =0ATo: europa-list(at)matronics.com =0ASent: Friday, 20 September 2013, 10:23 =0ASubject: Re: Europa-List: toroids for vhf comms aerial cable=0A =0A=0A-- =0AOn 09/20/2013 10:34 AM, Rowland Carson wrote:=0A> --> Europa-List messag e posted by: Rowland Carson =0A=0A> RS list hundre ds; obviously it needs to have a central hole of a suitable size for RG-58 (or probably RG-400 in my case) to pass through, but what about the other d imensions, and the magnetic characteristics? It's not clear whether the tor oids are fitted to act as a filter, as tuning, or as a balun. If, as I susp ect, the latter, the magnetic characteristics are likely to be more critica l.=0A=0AThe torroids are there do make it clear to the electrons where the =0Aborder is between the outer surface of the coax and the antenna leg=0Aco nnected to it. Without the torroids it is just one long piece of=0Aconducto r.=0AIt is not that critical though, but without these torroids you will ge t=0Amore radiation from the cable itself and it will pick up more noise fro m=0Athe surroundings of the cable, and since this is an airplane packed wit h=0Alots of electronic stuff you will want to prevent that.=0AThe magnetic properties of the torroids are critical indeed. I don't=0Ahave a list or ma nual, part numbers have been disappeared from memory=0Along time ago, but y ou obviously need to find something suitable for the=0Aintended frequency r ange (100-150 MHz). Some googling is in order here.=0AOr ask a local radio amateur club, the popular 2m-band (144 MHz) is=0Aclose to the aircraft freq uencies and what will work for them will work=0Afor you too. Changes are th at someone has a box full of these things on=0Ahis bench and is happy to sh are a few.=0A=0AAs an alternative you can coil up a part of the coax close =========== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bud Yerly" <budyerly(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: ndows-1252?Q?Re:_Europa-List:_Re:_Europa-List:_Re:_Europa-List:_Instr?=
=?Windows-1252?Q?ument_Panel_Sub_Panel_Setup=85..Runners=3F_?
Date: Sep 20, 2013
Jeremy, Tony and all, I have tried the pivot out panels in RVs and Europas and frankly the system works, however the length of todays instruments always seem to prevent the tilt out from being satisfactory. A slide out panel or whole panel is much more convenient. I prefer to build the panel so that when the outer support screws on the panel edge are unscrewed, the entire panel shell is free to detach as a unit. Of course I have a through the firewall access panel that I learned from Pete and Bob at Flight Crafters and further refined the screw pattern, metal selection, attachments, and sealing technique to assure a fire resistant and fully sealed panel. I fully understand those who prefer not to put an access hole in the panel for fear of fire/smoke incursion and the sealing that is necessary to prevent such a problem. If you don't want to learn to do it, I understand. .060 aluminum and .016 stainless, and some high temp sealant is what is needed form material, and a good steady hand with a diamond wheel on a dremel to cut the hole so the phenolic panel has minimum gap. Rivet the stainless to the cut panel after fit and it is a door ready to go. The back of the panel is equipped with CPC screw type plugs and D subs as appropriate. The cowl and access cover take longer to detach than the instrument panel. Typically the panel is ten screws, 4 D subs and three CPC circular connectors, and the quick disconnect pitot and static. The whole panel comes out and on to the bench for upgrades and testing. I have never found a reason to open my panel and just look. If it's broke, you built it so fix it. During an annual inspection, I routinely pull my panel and check my busses, through panel mounts and wire bundles for any upgrades I would like. It makes experimenting and maintenance of components a breeze. The trick is making sure the brakes, throttle etc. do not need to be removed. The high top fuselage has just enough height that the panel can be lifted over the brakes, throttle etc. in a trigear or mono. In a low top, I can unscrew six screws and drop my throttle and brake handles down to easily clear the panel. We have it down pat when removing, just pull aft an inch to check you didn't accidently leave a plug attached, then pull the panel back four inches, rotate the panel left side back and down to clear the canopy bow and remove. Carry to the bench and work. Make some extension plugs and put the panel on the bench next to the plane and troubleshoot away. Should one component fail such as the prop controller or autopilot, I can see the desire to pull out the front and then reach around and try to disconnect the D sub connector from the front, but in practice, I just found it not worth the time. Pull the firewall access panel and unplug and pull the whole thing out. Less of a chance of breaking wires and more convenience for me. I also don' t have to deal with excessively long and tediously folded service loops to work the panel. In the RV series I have found that the pull out on drawer slides to be quite nice as the bottom of the panel is open to allow you to work the service loops. I still hate to crawl into the RV8 and lay upside down to work on something. I am too stiff for that sort of thing, so I make the whole panel to pull. I have done it in two RVs, a Zenith and all the Europas I have built. Regards, Bud ----- Original Message ----- From: Jeremy Fisher<mailto:jffisher(at)gmail.com> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2013 9:54 AM Subject: Europa-List: Re: Europa-List: Re: Europa-List: Instrument Panel Sub Panel Setup=85..Runners? Graham, Do you mean like this? Photo is of my instrument panel ready for installations. Both sides are hinged, with 2 Camloc fasteners for each side; both are hinged, with one shown closed and the other open. Opening one takes 10 seconds. Jerry Fisher On Sep 17, 2013, at 5:00 AM, GRAHAM SINGLETON wrote: Tony excellent idea to think about this. I've been working on an old Classic and several times wanted to check things behind the panel. Accessibility on a standard plans built Europa is a long way from being good. Factory was so stressed at design time that they laft all that to we builders and there were a few good ideas tried. One I haven't seen is a hinge at the bootom of the panel. Most important is to keep it light, early panel installations with a lot of steam age stuff in them weighed anything up to 40lbs! Digital stuff has made it a lot easier and engine management systems ease the workload of single crew VFR. Graham ------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- From: Tony Renshaw > To: "europa-list(at)matronics.com" > Sent: Tuesday, 17 September 2013, 1:23 Subject: Europa-List: Instrument Panel Sub Panel Setup=85..Runners? > Gidday, I am interested in advice on what might be considered the best setup for the instrument panel, in terms of ease of maintenance, removal etc. I am wondering if the main sub panel could be removable forward on runners, like drawer sliders? Big aircraft have these, as was my misfortune one day to realise when I grabbed the two foot rests D rings either side of the panel and pulled to give my shoulders a stretch, but little did I know that during maintenance the locking screws had not been actuated, and the whole panel came forward up to the back of the control column! I looked at the other guy with shock, and just gently eased it back in place, hoping nothing had, or would disconnect in the process. Yes, we were airborne! It left an indelible memory, but has inspired me as to whether such a setup could work on the Europa. This idea is borne out of imagining how unwieldy it might be with all the weight aft of the sub panel, to remove it forward easily, especially with plumbing a! ttached. Runners would make it a lot easier. If there is other options for these sub panels I'd appreciate knowing, or whether my anxieties are unfounded. Thanks in anticipation. Regards Tony Renshaw Sydney =======ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-Lis t<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List>" target="_blank">htronics.com/" = --> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> face="courier new,courier"><http://www.matronics.com/contribution>http://www.matronics. com/Navigator?Europa-List<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List> href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ontribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Sub Panels....thanks
From: "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net>
Date: Sep 20, 2013
Hi Tony. My panel which I did not build has the six main instruments in a sub panel secured by six screws, the chap who built it did not use anchor bolts, when I try to remove the panel, the screws just went round and round, a nice sub panel that you can't remove, just my luck. However if I ever get it off there is always the opportunity of hinging it from the bottom, provided they is the clearance for the instruments as they rotate through the 90 degrees,? I see some postings of all electric panels on the forum, but I can not see any room to mount the stand by vacuum driven instrument, the minimum would be a Turn and Slip, Altimeter and Compass to maintain control if you are very very good ,just the last two but only in calm air. You could have Main Electric instruments and battery electric standby, say an ipad horizon, but in flight some strange things can happen, so I would not rely on this and use vacuum for stand by. VFR is the rule , but there could be a time when circumstances put you in cloud or on top of cloud, and without instruments in cloud or over the sea in poor visibilty I know you would be out of control within less than 3 minutes. I would have thought the LAA would have something laid out on just what you must have,??? Regards. Alan Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408902#408902 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <f.kyle(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: VHF toroids
Date: Sep 21, 2013
Hello, Reading the mail and noting Graham's kind words set me to writing Amidon Inc in California. They make the majority of toroids for a myriad of uses and are familiar to hams in many places. I have used their devices, but am long out of it so am not familiar with (a) their numbers or (b) tasks any more. If you can wait until their reply (prob'ly week-day) I will relay relevant material same day. I am sure there are equally effective producers Europe-wise, but these guys are by far the big guns in America (North America really). I note some firms shying away from aircraft matters as a defence against wild lawsuits, but believe we are OK because few toroids result in aviation accidents any more. Cheers Ferg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: toroids for vhf comms aerial cable
Date: Sep 21, 2013
I have one of those AAE dipole antennas...there is no mention in the installation instructions of adding toroids or the need thereof...am I missing something? Fred On Sep 20, 2013, at 2:42 AM, GRAHAM SINGLETON wrote: > Rowland > they are to form a balun, Fergus Kyle will probably know the answers you want, > he won't be up yet (Ontario) > Graham ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: toroids for vhf comms aerial cable
From: "Martymason" <captainmarty(at)bellsouth.net>
Date: Sep 21, 2013
Rowland make a coaxial cable balun per Lectric Bob's instructions at http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/BALUN/Balun_Fabrication . For a comm antenna the lengths should be 59 cm or 23.25 inches vs. 26 inches. The RG400 cable solders easily and will not melt. Marty -------- Marty Mason Europa XS Mono 10% Norcross, GA Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408937#408937 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: toroids for vhf comms aerial cable
From: "Martymason" <captainmarty(at)bellsouth.net>
Date: Sep 21, 2013
OOps, the correct article is http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/BALUN/Balun_Fabrication.html Marty -------- Marty Mason Europa XS Mono 10% Norcross, GA Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408938#408938 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject:
From: Frans Veldman <frans(at)privatepilots.nl>
Date: Sep 21, 2013
@Raimo: The Alps are beautiful @FL115! Today we went to Croatia=2E Probably our last "longer" trip this year=2E Just wanted to share=2E Frans & Ilona -- Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail=2E Please excuse my brevity =2E ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Sub Panels....thanks
From: "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net>
Date: Sep 21, 2013
Hi All Tried to fly on limited panel today in my Europa, Cheap instruments as seen in many Europa's, Turn Co ordinator bouncing from side to side, dependant on the DI only, the thermals tossing it about made it a very unstable instrument platform making flying extremely difficult. I would not like to be in a real situation in bad weather on limited panel in a Europa. Give me a Robin to fly IMC a nice stable platform. Regards. Alan Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408945#408945 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Sub Panels....thanks
From: Kevin Challis <kevinmarie(at)blueyonder.co.uk>
Date: Sep 21, 2013
Alan I am doing my IMC training on my Europa. It seems fine to me. You seem to find such fault with the Europa why did you buy one? Kevin On 21 Sep 2013, at 21:36, "Alan Carter" wrote: > > Hi All > Tried to fly on limited panel today in my Europa, Cheap instruments as seen in many Europa's, Turn Co ordinator bouncing from side to side, dependant on the DI only, the thermals tossing it about made it a very unstable instrument platform making flying extremely difficult. > I would not like to be in a real situation in bad weather on limited panel in a Europa. > Give me a Robin to fly IMC a nice stable platform. > Regards. > Alan > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408945#408945 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Sub Panels....thanks
From: "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net>
Date: Sep 21, 2013
Kevin, I am not sure on this maybe you have the answer, But as far as I know the Europa is not cleared for flight in IMC. and if ever you find yourself in real cloud being bumped around in bad weather on limited panel I think you will find it quit frightening, and maybe a change of underpants needed. Cloud is beautiful and fun to fly in, but it can also kill you. The reason I purchased a Europa is that it can be trailed around as you can de rige the plane in 20 minutes, trailer it home for repair, store it in my garage if I get short of money and can't afford the hangerage, few home built aircraft have this potential , pretty simple reasons . Regards, Alan Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408956#408956 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Recommend LFSM Montbeliard-Courcelles and Swiss Info
From: "John Wighton" <john(at)wighton.net>
Date: Sep 22, 2013
Flew UK to Switzerland a few weeks ago, caught that nice week of clear weather at the start of Sept. Tried to get back after a week but got blocked out by bad WX in France. I backtracked and ended up in LFSM (partly because it has a TGV station to get me back to work in Switzerland). A group of enthusiasts fly a Dassault 312 from there and l was fortunate enough to meet up with them, lovely people put GIPOD in the hangar (turned out to be 2 weeks stay), charged me nothing at all. Just shows there are still nice people in this world. This would be an excellent place to stop over as part of a Euro tour. Flying in the Alps was educational, Frans noted the fine view from FL115, which is true, but the valley flying is challenging, flying amongst 6k to 10k peaks, no horizon reference. I can recommend Switzerland generally but keep away from Buochs (ironically my local airfield as l live and work within its extended boundaries), particularly anal even for Switzerland and refused me re-entry for a weather diversion (there have been 6 recent fatalities at nearby Kagiswil when pilots could possibly have diverted to Buochs but maybe (speculation) thought they would be refused). I am taking that one up with FOCA. Recommend entry/exit via Grenchen, charged 20 approx for landing, customs and Police (needed when planning direct to UK). Military zones near Bern need checking as the airspace seems to close for GA regularly. There are a couple of Europa projects on the go, l met Albert Buess who is nearing flight test. -------- John Wighton Europa XS trigear G-IPOD Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408974#408974 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Andrew Sarangan <asarangan(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 22, 2013
Subject: Spar won't come off the socket!!
I am hoping someone will have a great idea to solve this problem. I just finished gluing the spar sockets, but I am unable to withdraw the port spar out of the starboard socket. I was able to get the bolts out quite easily. It also doesn't look like the spar got glued to anything, because I am able to rotate the spar, and wiggle it just but it won't slide out of the socket. What I suspect is that some flox might have oozed into the inside face of the socket which and might be preventing the bushing from sliding out. I greased everything, but did not grease the inside faces of the sockets. If all fails I was going to cut the outer face of the socket to extract the spar. Perhaps I could reglue that face back in place. Any ideas would be appreciated. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Spar won't come off the socket!!
From: Alan Burrill <alanb(at)dpy01.co.uk>
Date: Sep 22, 2013
Is there enough clearance to slide a knife blade between the spar and socket ? If you sight down the pin hole when you do it you might just be able to se e what the problem is an maybe even cut through it! Alan Sent from my iPad > On 22 Sep 2013, at 19:54, Andrew Sarangan wrote: > > I am hoping someone will have a great idea to solve this problem. I just f inished gluing the spar sockets, but I am unable to withdraw the port spar o ut of the starboard socket. I was able to get the bolts out quite easily. It also doesn't look like the spar got glued to anything, because I am able to rotate the spar, and wiggle it just but it won't slide out of the socket. W hat I suspect is that some flox might have oozed into the inside face of the socket which and might be preventing the bushing from sliding out. I grease d everything, but did not grease the inside faces of the sockets. If all fa ils I was going to cut the outer face of the socket to extract the spar. Per haps I could reglue that face back in place. Any ideas would be appreciated. > > > > > > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tim Ward <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz>
Subject: Re: Spar won't come off the socket!!
Date: Sep 23, 2013
Andrew, Try heating the spar socket to allow the spar to be released. You may have t o redo the setting. Cheers, Tim Tim Ward 12 Waiwetu Street Fendalton, Christchurch, 8052 New Zealand. ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz Ph 64 3 3515166 Mob 0210640221 > On 23/09/2013, at 6:54 am, Andrew Sarangan wrote: > > I am hoping someone will have a great idea to solve this problem. I just f inished gluing the spar sockets, but I am unable to withdraw the port spar o ut of the starboard socket. I was able to get the bolts out quite easily. It also doesn't look like the spar got glued to anything, because I am able to rotate the spar, and wiggle it just but it won't slide out of the socket. W hat I suspect is that some flox might have oozed into the inside face of the socket which and might be preventing the bushing from sliding out. I grease d everything, but did not grease the inside faces of the sockets. If all fa ils I was going to cut the outer face of the socket to extract the spar. Per haps I could reglue that face back in place. Any ideas would be appreciated. > > > > > > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Spar won't come off the socket!!
From: Pete <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com>
Date: Sep 22, 2013
Along the same lines, how about a thin gauge SS safety wire ( if it was the s ide face that is glued ) -Pete A239 > On Sep 22, 2013, at 3:17 PM, Alan Burrill wrote: > > Is there enough clearance to slide a knife blade between the spar and sock et? If you sight down the pin hole when you do it you might just be able to s ee what the problem is an maybe even cut through it! > > Alan > > Sent from my iPad > >> On 22 Sep 2013, at 19:54, Andrew Sarangan wrote: >> >> I am hoping someone will have a great idea to solve this problem. I just f inished gluing the spar sockets, but I am unable to withdraw the port spar o ut of the starboard socket. I was able to get the bolts out quite easily. It also doesn't look like the spar got glued to anything, because I am able to rotate the spar, and wiggle it just but it won't slide out of the socket. W hat I suspect is that some flox might have oozed into the inside face of the socket which and might be preventing the bushing from sliding out. I grease d everything, but did not grease the inside faces of the sockets. If all fa ils I was going to cut the outer face of the socket to extract the spar. Per haps I could reglue that face back in place. Any ideas would be appreciated. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D >> a-List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List >> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D >> //forums.matronics.com >> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D >> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D >> > > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Karl Heindl <kheindl(at)msn.com>
Subject: Spar won't come off the socket!!
Date: Sep 22, 2013
I would use heat. A hairdryer aimed at the socket for a few minutes=2C and get someone else to pull on the wing.Karl Subject: Re: Europa-List: Spar won't come off the socket!! From: peterz(at)zutrasoft.com Date: Sun=2C 22 Sep 2013 15:37:46 -0400 Along the same lines=2C how about a thin gauge SS safety wire ( if it was t he side face that is glued )-Pete A239 On Sep 22=2C 2013=2C at 3:17 PM=2C Alan Burrill wrote: Is there enough clearance to slide a knife blade between the spar and socke t? If you sight down the pin hole when you do it you might just be able to see what the problem is an maybe even cut through it! Alan Sent from my iPad On 22 Sep 2013=2C at 19:54=2C Andrew Sarangan wrote: I am hoping someone will have a great idea to solve this problem. I just fi nished gluing the spar sockets=2C but I am unable to withdraw the port spar out of the starboard socket. I was able to get the bolts out quite easily. It also doesn't look like the spar got glued to anything=2C because I am a ble to rotate the spar=2C and wiggle it just but it won't slide out of the socket. What I suspect is that some flox might have oozed into the inside f ace of the socket which and might be preventing the bushing from sliding ou t. I greased everything=2C but did not grease the inside faces of the socke ts. If all fails I was going to cut the outer face of the socket to extrac t the spar. Perhaps I could reglue that face back in place. Any ideas would be appreciated.=0A =0A =0A =0A =0A =0A D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=0A a-List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List=0A D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=0A //forums.matronics.com=0A D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=0A ot=3B">http://www.matronics.com/contribution=0A D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=0A =0A =0A =0A =0A D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=0A a-List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List=0A D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=0A //forums.matronics.com=0A D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=0A ot=3B">http://www.matronics.com/contribution=0A D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=0A =0A =0A =0A =0A ============0A ============0A ============0A ============0A =0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 22, 2013
From: GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Spar won't come off the socket!!
Redux will soften at moderate temps, I'd try that. Heat the socket on the o uter surface, =0Aquickly and quite hot, Heat the pin socket too,then give w ing a strong pull.=0AIf you can get a wooden spar to lever between fuselage and wing root rib with wooden=0Apads to spread the loads that would be the way to break the stuck part.=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A______________________ __________=0A From: Tim Ward <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz>=0ATo: "europa-list@matroni cs.com" =0ASent: Sunday, 22 September 2013, 20: 24=0ASubject: Re: Europa-List: Spar won't come off the socket!!=0A =0A=0A =0AAndrew,=0ATry heating the spar socket to allow the spar to be released. You may have to redo the setting.=0ACheers,=0ATim=0A=0ATim Ward=0A12 Waiwet u Street=0AFendalton,=0AChristchurch, -8052=0ANew Zealand.=0A=0Award.t@xt ra.co.nz=0A=0APh 64 3 3515166=0AMob 0210640221=0A=0A=0AOn 23/09/2013, at 6: 54 am, Andrew Sarangan wrote:=0A=0A=0AI am hoping som eone will have a great idea to solve this problem. I just finished gluing t he spar sockets, but-I am-unable to withdraw the port spar out of the s tarboard socket. I-was able to get the bolts-out quite easily.-It als o doesn't look like the spar got glued to anything, because I am able to ro tate the-spar, and wiggle it just but it won't slide out of the socket. W hat I suspect is that some flox might have-oozed into the-inside face -of the socket which and might be preventing the bushing from sliding out . I greased everything, but did not grease the inside faces of the sockets. --If all fails I was going-to cut the outer face of the socket to ext ract the spar. Perhaps I could reglue that face back in place. Any ideas wo uld be appreciated.=0A>-=0A>-=0A>-=0A>-=0A>D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=0Aa-List"">http://www. matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List=0AD=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=0A//forums.matronics.com=0AD=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=0Aot ;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution=0AD=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D ==== ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 22, 2013
From: K BURNS <kjburns(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Spar won't come off the socket!!
Andrew,=0AI concur that heat will soften the bond, but a paint stripping ho t air/ heat gun is probably-the tool for this job, but would recommend yo u practice on some uncured scraps of fiberglass first ,apply the heat and y ou can see that the resin will soften enough to peel the layers of glass ap art,-also protect your spar around the socket, wet towels or similar.. yo u can set up-a temperature probe on the spar if you want to be sure you d o not ruin it...=0A-=0ATo set some limits to help you prevent damage to w ing / spar or surrounding areas ,some guide temps used for post hardening 5 0 degrees centigrade for areas near blue foam.... 80 degrees for areas wher e no blue foam ,while piece is fully supported (as parts will deform)-is used to heat soak-composite over 18 hour period.=0A-=0ABy testing with a piece of steel on a glass fibre scrap..or flox and resin scrap you will e stablish how long you need to apply the heat to the socket to allow you to pull the wings apart.=0A-=0AGood Luck !=0A-=0AKevin=0A-=0A-=0A =0A =0A________________________________=0A From: Andrew Sarangan <asarangan@gma il.com>=0ATo: Europa List =0ASent: Sunday, 22 S eptember 2013, 19:54=0ASubject: Europa-List: Spar won't come off the socket !!=0A =0A=0A=0AI am hoping someone will have a great idea to solve this pr oblem. I just finished gluing the spar sockets, but-I am-unable to with draw the port spar out of the starboard socket. I-was able to get the bol ts-out quite easily.-It also doesn't look like the spar got glued to an ything, because I am able to rotate the-spar, and wiggle it just but it w on't slide out of the socket. What I suspect is that some flox might have -oozed into the-inside face-of the socket which and might be preventi ng the bushing from sliding out. I greased everything, but did not grease t he inside faces of the sockets.--If all fails I was going-to cut the outer face of the socket to extract the spar. Perhaps I could reglue that f ========== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Andrew Sarangan <asarangan(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 22, 2013
Subject: Re: Spar won't come off the socket!!
Thanks to everyone who responded. It seems the problem was I had overestimated my upper body strength :-) I was trying to pry the wings apart by pushing on each wing root. Instead, I inserted a bottle jack horizontally with a long 2x4, and I was able to pry the two wings apart There was indeed some epoxy around the bushing. It was not much, but I guess it was enough to cause a significant resistance. On Sun, Sep 22, 2013 at 3:37 PM, Pete wrote: > Along the same lines, how about a thin gauge SS safety wire ( if it was > the side face that is glued ) > -Pete > A239 > > On Sep 22, 2013, at 3:17 PM, Alan Burrill wrote: > > Is there enough clearance to slide a knife blade between the spar and > socket? If you sight down the pin hole when you do it you might just be > able to see what the problem is an maybe even cut through it! > > Alan > > Sent from my iPad > > On 22 Sep 2013, at 19:54, Andrew Sarangan wrote: > > I am hoping someone will have a great idea to solve this problem. I just > finished gluing the spar sockets, but I am unable to withdraw the port spar > out of the starboard socket. I was able to get the bolts out quite > easily. It also doesn't look like the spar got glued to anything, because I > am able to rotate the spar, and wiggle it just but it won't slide out of > the socket. What I suspect is that some flox might have oozed into > the inside face of the socket which and might be preventing the bushing > from sliding out. I greased everything, but did not grease the inside faces > of the sockets. If all fails I was going to cut the outer face of the > socket to extract the spar. Perhaps I could reglue that face back in place. > Any ideas would be appreciated. > > > * > > D============================================ > a-List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List > D============================================ > //forums.matronics.com > D============================================ > ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > D============================================ > * > > * > > D============================================ > a-List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List > D============================================ > //forums.matronics.com > D============================================ > ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > D============================================ > * > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 22, 2013
From: GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Spar won't come off the socket!!
Great news Andrew!=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________ =0A From: Andrew Sarangan <asarangan(at)gmail.com>=0ATo: Europa List <europa-l ist(at)matronics.com> =0ASent: Sunday, 22 September 2013, 22:09=0ASubject: Re: Europa-List: Spar won't come off the socket!!=0A =0A=0A=0AThanks-to ever yone who responded. It seems the problem-was I had overestimated-my upp er-body strength :-) I was trying to pry the wings apart by pushing on ea ch wing root. Instead, I inserted a bottle jack horizontally with a long 2x 4, and I was able to pry the two wings apart-There was indeed some epoxy around the bushing. It was not much, but-I guess it-was enough to cause a significant resistance. =0A-=0A=0A=0A=0AOn Sun, Sep 22, 2013 at 3:37 P M, Pete wrote:=0A=0AAlong the same lines, how about a thin gauge SS safety wire ( if it was the side face that is glued )-Pete -=0A>A239=0A>=0A>On Sep 22, 2013, at 3:17 PM, Alan Burrill wrote:=0A>=0A>=0A>Is there enough clearance to slide a knife blade be tween the spar and socket? If you sight down the pin hole when you do it yo u might just be able to see what the problem is an maybe even cut through i t!=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>Alan=0A>>=0A>>Sent from my iPad=0A>>=0A>>On 22 Sep 2013, a t 19:54, Andrew Sarangan wrote:=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>I am ho ping someone will have a great idea to solve this problem. I just finished gluing the spar sockets, but-I am-unable to withdraw the port spar out of the starboard socket. I-was able to get the bolts-out quite easily. -It also doesn't look like the spar got glued to anything, because I am a ble to rotate the-spar, and wiggle it just but it won't slide out of the socket. What I suspect is that some flox might have-oozed into the-insi de face-of the socket which and might be preventing the bushing from slid ing out. I greased everything, but did not grease the inside faces of the s ockets.--If all fails I was going-to cut the outer face of the socket to extract the spar. Perhaps I could reglue that face back in place. Any i deas would be appreciated.=0A>>>-=0A>>>-=0A>>>-=0A>>>-=0A>>>D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=0Aa- List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=0A//forums.matronic s.com D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=0Aot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =0A>>D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=0Aa-List"">h ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=0A//forums.matronics.com D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =0Aot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =0A>arget="_blank">http:/ /www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List=0Atp://forums.matronics.com=0A_bla ==== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Raimo Toivio" <raimo.toivio(at)rwm.fi>
Subject: Re:
Date: Sep 23, 2013
Frans & Ilona; Thanks for sharing. The Alps are really beautiful =93 so far we have looked them only from the ground by walk, train or car. We wish you will give us some current mountain flight training =93 you will get from us some basics for remote flying. Coming back! Also shoreless seas are beautiful like Baltic Sea or how do you like? This one is @ FL80. How about windmills - aren=C2=B4t they like The Beasts from The Revelation? BTW did you know that you have a nice night club in Tampere? Ilona & Villisika. Maybe you wonder what means =9CVillisika=9D ? A direct translation is =9CA Wildpig=9D. You are maybe Ilona=C2=B4s very private Villisika ;) Marke has started her Helicopter lessons and managed to levitate R44 instantly. They claim that=C2=B4s a rare wonder. Marke & Raimo From: Frans Veldman Sent: Saturday, September 21, 2013 11:34 PM Subject: Europa-List: @Raimo: The Alps are beautiful @FL115! Today we went to Croatia. Probably our last "longer" trip this year. Just wanted to share. Frans & Ilona -- Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Rotax 914 CHT probes
Date: Sep 23, 2013
> > Gidday, Can someone please remind me of the CHT sensing options for the Rotax 914? I know under spark plug sensors can be used, but that it can effect spark plu g torque, so I am interested in whether there is a port on a cylinder etc th at can be used accurately, or whether water temperature is the better method of monitoring engine temperature health. Thanks in anticipation. Regards Tony Renshaw ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 23, 2013
From: GTH <gilles.thesee(at)free.fr>
Subject: Re: Rotax 914 CHT probes
Tony Renshaw a crit : >> >> Gidday, > Can someone please remind me of the CHT sensing options for the Rotax > 914? I know under spark plug sensors can be used, but that it can > effect spark plug torque, so I am interested in whether there is a > port on a cylinder etc that can be used accurately, or whether water > temperature is the better method of monitoring engine temperature > health. Thanks in anticipation. G'day Tony, The 914 comes with two CHT sensors, one on the front left head, the other on the rear right head. You just connect one of those to your gage. Everything is the installation manual. Naturally, since all the temps limits in the manual are CHT temps, those are the temps you need to monitor. FWIW, Best regards, -- Gilles http://contrails.free.fr ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)talktalk.net>
Subject: Rotax 914 CHT probes
Date: Sep 23, 2013
Hi! Tony . There is a position to the side of the rocker box which is dry ( no coolant and no oil to receive the sensor which is not unlike a little cylindrical sensor definitely NOT an under plug sensor .) On the 914 it is also vital to have a water flow temperature sensor in the coolant =9Cmanifold=9D pipe passing down the rear of the engine bay to the radiator.. It is no good sensing the coolant temperature anywhere else it won=99t be reliable.


September 03, 2013 - September 23, 2013

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