FEWMustang-Archive.digest.vol-aa
September 03, 2003 - July 05, 2005
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | New Email List For FEW Mustang Builders and Flyers... |
Edward et al,
I have just finished setting up a new FEW Mustang list on the Matronics
Servers. All of the usual archive searching, browsing, and downloading
will be available with the new list (some archive stuff will show up
tomorrow with the overnight updates).
At the bottom of each message, you will find a table of URL links to all
the fun stuff! The Photoshare is also something you-all might find useful
and interesting!
To post a message to the new list, simply send an email message to the
following address:
fewmustang-list(at)matronics.com
Your message will be automatically redistributed to everyone on the
list. If you wish to subscribe or unsubscribe from either the real-time or
digest versions of the fewmustang list (or any of the other Lists at
Matronics), surf over to the following URL and carefully follow the directions:
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
I have taken the liberty of automatically subscribing the people CC'd on LR
Eidemiller's original request message regarding the new list.
Please tell all of your FEW buddies about the new list and encourage them
to join! About the only catch to the new list is that I have a PBS-like
fund raiser in November where I ask Lists members to make a small voluntary
contribution to support the operation of the Lists. Otherwise, you'll
pleasantly find no advertising, no SPAM, no viruses, and no flashing banner
ads on the Matronics Email Lists!
I look forward to the new discussions on the List!!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List
RV-4 Builder
At 07:36 AM 8/29/2003 Friday, you wrote:
>Matt,
>
>Thanks for the quick reply.
>
>All of the FEW builders and myself included would greatly appreciate you
>setting up this e-group for us. Larry's suggestion of "FEW Mustang List"
>would be fine with me. Let me know how I can help and what procedures to
>take after it has been completed.
>
>My biggest concern is the monitoring that someone with FEW assembly
>knowledge will have to do. I will be available most all the time and the
>plane's designer Jim Kern will check in regularly.
>
>Thanks again Matt. I look forward to getting our guys back together with
>this tool.
>
>Regards,
>Edward Hullinger
>Fighter Escort Wings
>Aircraft Development / Production
>948 Tourmaline Drive
>Newbury Park, CA 91320
>805.499.9737 / 805.402.1554
>hms23turbo(at)aol.com
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
Gentlemen,
I guess that I am partly to blame for the e-mails that you received
to day regarding your having subscribed to the FEW Mustang-list. Ed Hullinger
and I have been discussing how to create a useful forum for our group to
communicate. Matt Draille runs a number of builders "lists", and does a great
job
of handling the technical aspects of the operation.
Several of us have followed his AeroElectric list for some time, and
the information has been invaluable.
My intent was to set up the list and then invite each of you to join
if you wished.
However, Matt, in his efficient fashion, Took my cc: of the message that I
sent to him and you all, and subscribed each of you to the list.
DON'T WORRY, THE SUBSCRIPTION IS FREE. However, I apologize for
setting you up for this without your permission.
You can easily UNSUBSCRIBE, by following the instruction is Matt
Draille's introductory e-mails.
It sounds complicated, but is really dead simple. I hope it works.
LRE2(at)aol.com
Larry Eidemiller
Firewall forward
90% to go!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Melvinke(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | work in progress |
P51D, N51KX is coming together. Awaiting Ed Hullinger's magnificent PSRU.
Engine by Jerry Morrell, Redmond, Oregon. 383c.i. 460 HP at 4800 RPM. Partners
in
the project: Ken Melvin and Chris Longaker.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fairing attachment bobbins |
Hi guys,
I have had my CNC turning shop build a couple of sets (300 + pieces) of what
I call "bobbins" for attaching all the fairings and dorsal fin. I found that
the prototype TF with the previously recommended book binding nuts was in need
of replacement of several of these due to stripping of the threads or simply
being used up. The bad news is that there isn't enough material left to re-tap
or insert these things, so I've had to dig the out and put new ones in. The
new version are 304 stainless with a 6-32 thread, and an o.d. of .625". There
are two heights needed because the core material is thicker in some of the areas
on both the wing and the fuselage (the horizontal stab. is all the same
thickness). These little guys are a piece of cake to install. Just hole saw through
one skin, clean out a bit of the core, push them in until flush, squeeze in
some adhesive with a syringe through a .062" hole in the skin nearby and you're
done. I'll get a couple of pictures today and post them. Anyway, this isn't a
sales pitch but if anyone wants some let me know, The CNC program is written
and all I need to do is make a call and the guys will turn them out.
The prototype TF is getting a new engine (LS6) and will be flying soon. We
should make arrangements if anyone wants to come out and fly it.
Ed Hullinger
TF, about 80% there. Painting the wing next week. Red.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fairing attachment bobbins |
Ed,
As usual, you are "Right ON" with this one. I used the alum "Book
Binder Nuts"
on the dorsal fin, and found that the threads stripped out after three or
four installations. I wound up digging them all out and replacing them with ss
T-Nuts available at your friendly hardware store intended for use in furniture
building. I have used them for all of the faring installations, including the
wingroot farings and parts of the cowling. So far, none have stripped out.
Your system sounds much slicker and easier. I wish I had access to those
"little guys" a few years ago.
To those of you who haven't installed farings yet, DON'T use the book
binder nuts.
Ed's inserts may save you Hours and hours of aggravation...LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Melvinke(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FEWMustang-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 09/06/03 |
Ed, your proposal to produce the fairing bobbins is great. Please make me a
set. Do I infer from your message that you are offering flight experience in
your TF? If so, what airport are you located on, and when can we come? Ken
Melvin, N51KX.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FEWMustang-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 09/06/03 |
Ken,
I'll get the machine shop on it on Monday.
I intend to have the prototype TF available to any qualified FEW builder as
soon as it is back up (currently fitting a new engine and rewiring / replumbing
as needed).
Camarillo, CA (CMA is the identifier) will be the aircraft's home base.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Securing your engine mount bathtub fittings |
Guys,
A huge "gotcha" got me this morning. As I was doing a little maintenance on
the prototype I found that I could turn most of the 10-32 nuts (bolts have come
loose over time) that are on the inside of the fuselage behind the firewall.
These nuts are on the bolts that hold the bathtub fittings to the fuselage
longerons in four places. These mounts are what the engine support frame bolt to.
When this fuselage was built, these 4 fittings were bolted in, foamed and
glassed over, and forgotten. Now after a bit of flying time the bolts are loose
and there is no way to tighten them without digging out all the glass and foam
that covers them! I suggest that you either leave them exposed so that you can
get a socket on them in the future, or put the bolts in without washers on
them (from the outside of the fuselage in), put a small tack of weld on each
bolts head (one flat would be plenty) to the fitting with a TIG welder after they
have been tightened. This would enable you to reach in and snug up the nuts
at any time, even if you have completely covered over the fittings as the
prototype has been. I would expect these bolts to loosen up in any case due to
the
fact that they pass through a lot of composite material that will crush
slightly over time. I would also "pot" these fittings in the fuselage pockets with
epoxy / flox when you bolt them in for the final time to reduce any extra
movement that would tend to elongate these #10 holes.
Ed Hullinger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harold Anderson" <andy_lindaanderson(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Securing your engine mount bathtub fittings |
I figured that would happen so I filled the fuselage voids with White
foam blocks then covered that with structural adhesive it's no big deal
to cut out the foam if I have to. On the inside I have not covered the
nuts with anything.
Ed, on another note what is the weight and dimensions of the engine the
plane is based on.
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com
Subject: FEWMustang-List: Securing your engine mount bathtub fittings
Guys,
A huge "gotcha" got me this morning. As I was doing a little maintenance
on
the prototype I found that I could turn most of the 10-32 nuts (bolts
have come
loose over time) that are on the inside of the fuselage behind the
firewall.
These nuts are on the bolts that hold the bathtub fittings to the
fuselage
longerons in four places. These mounts are what the engine support frame
bolt to.
When this fuselage was built, these 4 fittings were bolted in, foamed
and
glassed over, and forgotten. Now after a bit of flying time the bolts
are loose
and there is no way to tighten them without digging out all the glass
and foam
that covers them! I suggest that you either leave them exposed so that
you can
get a socket on them in the future, or put the bolts in without washers
on
them (from the outside of the fuselage in), put a small tack of weld on
each
bolts head (one flat would be plenty) to the fitting with a TIG welder
after they
have been tightened. This would enable you to reach in and snug up the
nuts
at any time, even if you have completely covered over the fittings as
the
prototype has been. I would expect these bolts to loosen up in any case
due to the
fact that they pass through a lot of composite material that will crush
slightly over time. I would also "pot" these fittings in the fuselage
pockets with
epoxy / flox when you bolt them in for the final time to reduce any
extra
movement that would tend to elongate these #10 holes.
Ed Hullinger
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Securing your engine mount bathtub fittings |
Ed
This is very worrisome. The Prototype doesn't have that many hrs on it,
does it. Has it flown its 1st 50 hrs?
There shouldn't be any compressible foam between the mounting plates.
According to my (scant) instruction drawings and recollection, that should be
solid glass plys. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harold Anderson" <andy_lindaanderson(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Securing your engine mount bathtub fittings |
I found a composite construction when I drilled the holes, outer layers
of Fiberglass, then a layer of steel sheet metal with a wooden core. The
wooden core would allow for some compressibility, but it would be
minimal.
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
LRE2(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: FEWMustang-List: Securing your engine mount bathtub
fittings
Ed
This is very worrisome. The Prototype doesn't have that many hrs
on it,
does it. Has it flown its 1st 50 hrs?
There shouldn't be any compressible foam between the mounting
plates.
According to my (scant) instruction drawings and recollection, that
should be
solid glass plys. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gerber <44gn(at)kconline.com> |
Hi All...
I'm really new at this email website stuff so just bare with me.
I'm in the process of building my wing. I have all of the ribs and bulk
heads in. I have the fuel vent tubes installed. I have the flap motor
installed and working. I'm getting 40 degrees of flap travel. I have
the ailerons mounted and the push rods ready to weld the ends. The tail
section is finished and ready to close the Horz Stab, elevators and
rudder. The mac servo's are installed and working. I do have one
advantage I have the Proto Type Fuselage Little Friend One. So mounting
the tail section was good just hope the wing fits as well. I'm now
waiting for Ed to send me my gear. I do hope you FEW builders will use
this site to become excited about your plane and start building again if
you have stopped. You know we FEW builders are the only replica 51's
out there that has some one who we can get information and help from.
so lets get the plane in the air and meet some place and have some plane
talk. More later as it happens. Gary Gerber
PS Any of you are invited to come to Syracuse, IN to visit. Goshen
airport is just 10 miles from home.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Securing your engine mount bathtub fittings |
Larry,
I'm going to speak with Jim and Rick Kern to see what material "stack up"
there should be in this area. It's entirely possible that when this fuselage was
put together that these bolts were never tightened properly and now appear to
have loosened.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
Guys,
In an effort to add a builder tip or two a day, I wanted to mention something
to those who haven't done it as of yet. Split your cowl ring. This is the
ring that the top and bottom cowl bolt to. I suggest that you make up a couple
of
small plates (approx. 2" x 3") to bolt your ring together after the surgery.
I found it helpful to cut it straight across at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions
and then rivet the plates to one or the other and use nuts and bolts to secure
the plate to the other half. This will allow you to run the engine with the
prop on and the cowl off (and the ring out of your way) without having to tie
the ring back. It also makes putting the prop on a whole lot easier. I've got
pictures if any of you would like to see how I did it.
Ed Hullinger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Melvinke(at)aol.com |
Lary Eidemiller has the split ring mod and it certainly offers every
advantage you refer to.
Kenneth Melvin (N51KX)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
Could you educate those of us that are quite as far down the road. Split
ring, tell me more. Ken Gottschall
________________________________________________________________________________
Ken, Good to hear from you. The Split Nose Ring deal has to do with the fact
that once the prop is on, you can't et the nose ring off without pulling and
reinstalling the prop. Not an easy task. If you need to paint the nose ring,
or wish to run the engine with the cowling off, the you have a problem.
I cut the nose ring in half, horizontally ( 3:00-9:00) and then made
0.050 alum
plates riveted to the bottom half, and screwed into nutplates on the top. I
can send you photos, if you like. This way, I can quickly dissemble, the
entire cowling in about 10 min. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
I appreciate the quick response and I will certaintly do the split cowl. I'm
very close to gluing the wing together. It feels nice to putting in
pushrods, etc for the last time. I'm finding time to work on the bird quite a bit
this
summer during my busiest time of the year. I've added about 30 gallons by
sealing in, with a lot of effort, the 3 rear compartments on each side with more
fuel. Sounds like Ed is making a significant effort to ge this bird back
into production. I think he could sell many planes if he's got everything
together, particularly with advanced fastbuild kits. My Fuse is ready to hang engine
as soon as I can come up with the Ray Ward type that I want (Super Bede 4
with 450hp). Only money cures my building problems.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
Guys,
Another mod that I have done after seeing the need, was to add a tube through
the fuselage (forward of the tailwheel / behind the radiator scoop) much like
the original had. I assume that North American had done this for transport /
lifting; but I see our need as simply a better way of securing the aircraft
for ground running. I've experienced both methods of tying down; one via the
tailwheel, and two through the inspection holes under the horizontal stabilizer.
Both have done damage to the aircraft (ask Robert Oliver, he ripped 6" gashes
through the fuselage skins!) that this was applied to. The tube that I used
was a .875 o.d. x .750 i.d. 6061 aluminum piece that I glued and glassed in
from the inside. The ends are flush with the skin and almost invisible when
painted. For ground running I put a steel bar through this tube and attach an eye
on each end. From the eyes simply run tie down straps to whatever you are using
as your anchor point on the ground. The position of my tube is as close as I
could find to the original. This location is high enough and forward enough on
the fuselage to keep the tail from "flying" if it is tied down properly. I've
got pics. if anyone would like.
Ed Hullinger
________________________________________________________________________________
Ed, put me on the list for some pictures.
I have installed a tail tie down ring, by reinforcing the floor of the
fuselage just aft of B/H 0170 with 8 plys of bid. Then I welded a 3/8" nut to
a 3x4" square of 1/6"4130
screwed in place with #10 MS. A 3/8 ring bolt or fancy chrome pickup bed
tiedown ring can be screwed in or removed as desired.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Melvinke(at)aol.com |
I tried the same thing, but found it was in the way of the elevator push/pull tube.
I now have a very strong reinforced area just aft of the tailwheel into which
screws a removable tie-down. The tube through the rear fuselage of the full-scale
Mustang was to elevate the tail for bore-sighting the guns. Ken Melvin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Hoyle" <c.hoyle(at)comcast.net> |
Ed,
I follow all of your emails with interest and now am especially
interested in the tie down tube. Yes, I would like pictures. Thanks,
Cliff
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: FEWMustang-List: FEW
Guys,
Another mod that I have done after seeing the need, was to add a tube
through
the fuselage (forward of the tailwheel / behind the radiator scoop) much
like
the original had. I assume that North American had done this for
transport /
lifting; but I see our need as simply a better way of securing the
aircraft
for ground running. I've experienced both methods of tying down; one via
the
tailwheel, and two through the inspection holes under the horizontal
stabilizer.
Both have done damage to the aircraft (ask Robert Oliver, he ripped 6"
gashes
through the fuselage skins!) that this was applied to. The tube that I
used
was a .875 o.d. x .750 i.d. 6061 aluminum piece that I glued and
glassed in
from the inside. The ends are flush with the skin and almost invisible
when
painted. For ground running I put a steel bar through this tube and
attach an eye
on each end. From the eyes simply run tie down straps to whatever you
are using
as your anchor point on the ground. The position of my tube is as close
as I
could find to the original. This location is high enough and forward
enough on
the fuselage to keep the tail from "flying" if it is tied down properly.
I've
got pics. if anyone would like.
Ed Hullinger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gerber <44gn(at)kconline.com> |
ED. I was going ask about doing this. It's great Idea. Send me some pic's.
Also Thanks for the pic's of the fuel hook ups. That really helps. I will put
in
the second line so if I want fuel injection it will be ready. I also was going
to
ask about cutting the tube at an angle. Great Idea.
I wish more of the guys would get on line. Did you get your RFA newsletter? I
see
that Jack Hunt flew his FEW to Oshkosh. Are you in contact with him?
I will be going to St Louis to see Ken Gotchell's wing and bring myself up to date.
Take pic's and stuff. He is about ready to close his wing. Did you know he has
Huey
Long's wrecked plane? Get some good visuals that way.
Have a good day. Gary
HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Guys,
>
> Another mod that I have done after seeing the need, was to add a tube through
> the fuselage (forward of the tailwheel / behind the radiator scoop) much like
> the original had. I assume that North American had done this for transport /
> lifting; but I see our need as simply a better way of securing the aircraft
> for ground running. I've experienced both methods of tying down; one via the
> tailwheel, and two through the inspection holes under the horizontal stabilizer.
> Both have done damage to the aircraft (ask Robert Oliver, he ripped 6" gashes
> through the fuselage skins!) that this was applied to. The tube that I used
> was a .875 o.d. x .750 i.d. 6061 aluminum piece that I glued and glassed in
> from the inside. The ends are flush with the skin and almost invisible when
> painted. For ground running I put a steel bar through this tube and attach an
eye
> on each end. From the eyes simply run tie down straps to whatever you are using
> as your anchor point on the ground. The position of my tube is as close as I
> could find to the original. This location is high enough and forward enough on
> the fuselage to keep the tail from "flying" if it is tied down properly. I've
> got pics. if anyone would like.
>
> Ed Hullinger
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
Just to get my two cents in. Jerry Frey from RFA flew successful his P-51
around here for 3-4 yrs. and he also had the cross tube support installed in
his plane. It made it much easier to push in and out of the hanger. One hand
on the rod and the other on the stab. Worked real well. Lastly NA did
install that tube mainly for crating to go over on ships. I have pictures that
show fuses in crates. Question. I'm using Usher fuel caps and adaptors. The
adaptor protudes about 3/8" beyond inner skin. Should this be floxed radius
or is there another adaptor that slides over the inside?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Melvinke(at)aol.com |
The tube through the fuselage may have been used for a variety of functions, but
the primary one was the elevation and fixing of the fuselage while boresighting
the guns. I know, because I flew them and watched the procedure. Ken Melvin,
N51KX.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
Ken,
With your "real" Mustang experience, I look forward to having you fly the
prototype TF and give us all your opinion! Maybe we could get a magazine article
written around the occasion. (I hope it won't be compared to riding a
"Shetland Pony" as one of my T-28 buddies has a habit of joking to me. Come to
think
of it, he doesn't fly his "real warbird" much anymore due to the price of fuel
these days)
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Melvinke(at)aol.com |
I would dearly love to fly the prototype when it is ready, and I am sure that the
Portland contingent will fly down to Camarillo to share in the fun! A good
article in the aviation press, with in-flight photos of two or three FEW Mustangs
in formation, and a show and tell account of your PSRU, should get things
moving again. All of which raises the question of insurance. How have those who
are flying FEW P51's currently managed to obtain coverage, and at what cost?
Your tiedown mod is important, particularly in light of Dennis Turner's setback
when he tipped his TF on its nose during a full power run-up.
Ken Melvin (N51KX)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | New SPAM and Virus Filtering Appliance At Matronics... |
Dear Listers,
I will be installing a new SPAM and virus blocking appliance this
evening or tomorrow. The installation will involve some changes
in the Matronics DNS MX records, and will impact how incoming
email is handled. While I expect these changes to be transparent
to all of the List subscribers, things might go differently... ;-)
The Lists get bombarded with tons of SPAM messages and viruses
each day and fortunately my custom filters have been extremely
effective at filtering most of this from redistribution. Its
time to move to the next level of technology, however, and this
SPAM and Virus filtering appliance seems like an excellent
solution.
I will post a follow up message later in the week when things
have stabilized and I have some filter statistics to share.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
Ken,
I don't know anything about the Usher fuel caps, so I would be at a loss to
give you any advice without any more information. Send a photo of the cap and
adapter to a couple of us (Larry or Ken are always good sets of eyes for
problem solving) via regular e-mail, and we'll certainly give you our opinions.
Why
didn't you use the "standard" caps supplied with the kit?
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
Ken and Ed...P.S. The caps supplied with the kit ARE Usher caps. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
Ken,
I have used Usher Caps in both the aux and main tanks. (I have
separated the tanks).. They are pretty easy to install, and work well. I'm not
quite
sure I understand your question. Basically, I cut the appropriate hole in
the outer skin, and scooped out the foam. I then made a nutplate to fit
inside and bonded and screwed the fillneck in place. ( you could easily use
rivets.) Then filled the defect around the ring with my favorite mixture of 1/3
Cabosil, 2/3 micro and sanded it smooth. I did not fillet or glass the inside
of
the neck. I did however run braided copper bonding strips from the filler
necks to the ground plane, to prevent static charge build up. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gerber <44gn(at)kconline.com> |
It is sure nice that you got Usher caps with your kits. Mine seemed to be
not there. Gary
LRE2(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Ken and Ed...P.S. The caps supplied with the kit ARE Usher caps. LRE
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
Larry,
You are absolutely right, the Usher caps are standard issue. What threw me
with Ken's question was the need to put in the receptacles; not knowing that he
was adding additional fillers to the two that are already in the wing.
Gary, FEW owes these to you and I'll make certain that they get sent.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FEWMustang-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 09/15/03 |
These were the caps and adaptors as supplied by FEW. Gerber suggested a
phenolic ring Hysoled around the inside flange end. When the o-ring on the cap
expands when closing it pushes in this unsupported area. I'm going to use
this solution.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gerber <44gn(at)kconline.com> |
Ok sounds good I will look forward for the fuel caps.
I'm sure Ed when you ask the other builders to get on line I think they will.
It
is exciting setting down in the evening and get your email it's just like
Christmas. We have so many good builders who have so many great ideas that make
the job much easier.
Keep the good stuff coming. The pic's are great. Gary
HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Larry,
>
> You are absolutely right, the Usher caps are standard issue. What threw me
> with Ken's question was the need to put in the receptacles; not knowing that
he
> was adding additional fillers to the two that are already in the wing.
>
> Gary, FEW owes these to you and I'll make certain that they get sent.
>
> Ed
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FEWMustang-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 09/15/03 |
Ken, I assume that you are using the filler necks that come with the Usher
caps. If so, you have no need for an additional phenolic ring. Hysol is a poor
choice to use in the fuel tanks, as it is soluble in gasoline and in ethanol.
Resin/Flox is not, so a better choice. This is also an important
consideration when you close your wing. Several of us, after learning of this
charactoristic of Hysol, have been careful to lay a generous bead of Resin/Flox
on the
tank edges of the cap strips to preclude contact of the gas with the Hysol
bond. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gerber <44gn(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FEWMustang-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 09/15/03 |
Good day to you all...
I have a question. What's new.
I need some information on how to mount the push pull tube in side of
the Torque Tube. It fits in there some how. I have no manual pages for
this.
That's all for today.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FEWMustang-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 09/15/03 |
Gary;
I have some 12 pages of inst. regarding this. I found that they were
helpful, but needed some modification to work well. I can fax them to you, but
we would probably need to talk to explain the nuances. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gerber <44gn(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FEWMustang-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 09/15/03 |
I will hook up the Fax Just give me 5 min. Gary
LRE2(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Gary;
> I have some 12 pages of inst. regarding this. I found that they were
> helpful, but needed some modification to work well. I can fax them to you, but
> we would probably need to talk to explain the nuances. LRE
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FEWMustang-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 09/15/03 |
Drawings are in the mail. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
Guys'
This is a test.
The FEW List rejects any messages with attached files, an a virus
protection strategy. You can, of course sent photos by using the Photoshare
HTML feature.
This is an attempt to see if we can send photos by imbedding them in
the message.[Unable to display image]We'll see if it works
LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
WELL, it doesn't work, so I guess that we will have to use the photoshare
HTML feature....LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [Please Read] SPAM Filter Could Be Causing Posting Problems |
For Some Members...?
Dear Listers,
Matronics is now utilizing a SPAM filter appliance to filter out the
excessive amounts of inappropriate email that bombards the Email List
Forums each day. The filter is reporting that over 66% of the email
messages sent to Matronics email destinations are of SPAM content and
reviewing the logfiles, it would appear to be true. That is indeed great!
While the Lists are enjoying the breath of fresh air afforded by the new
appliance, I am suspecting that a few legitimate email List posts are being
blocked as too, although I can't confirm this. It is difficult to churn
through the logfiles looking though thousands of blocked email messages
trying to determine if any legitimate List posts were blocked.
If you suspect that your posts are accidently being blocked by the SPAM
filter appliance, I have created a new Trouble Report web page that will
allow you to report your problems directly to me without having to use
email. If the SPAM filter is blocking your email address for some reason,
then its likely that I wouldn't be able to receive your direct email
regarding difficulty in posting. The web form bypasses the incoming email
and directs your message directly to me.
Please include as much information as possible regarding the problems you
are having including any bounced email or email error messages that you may
have received back in regard to your posts to the lists. The more
information I have about the email you are sending and what the errors you
are receiving, the better chance I'll have in hunting down the problem.
The Trouble Report Website URL is:
http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report/
I apologize for any inconvenience the SPAM filter may be causing you. I
will work toward resolving your issues as quickly as possible.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics EMail List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | All New Matronics Email List Online Chat!!! |
Hi Listers!
A number of Listers have been asking for some Matronics Email List online
chat and NOW ITS HERE! Over the last couple of days I've set up a nifty
web-based Chat site here on the Matronics systems. No special programs to
download; all you need is a late model web browser like Internet Explorer
or Netscape with a java plugin. I would recommend downloading the latest
Java plugin if you experience any problems getting the page to come
up. Here's a link to the Sun Java download
website. http://java.com/en/index.jsp Look for the green box with the
yellow arrow in the upper right corner. Before you bother, though, just
try you browser because it'll probably just work.
Each Email List on Matronics has its own "Room" and all rooms can easily be
accessed from the same client. In the Email List URL Trailer at the bottom
of each List message, you'll find the Link to this List's specific Chat
Room. Just click on the Link, and then type in your name or email address
in the User Name box. Try to use a name or email address that the other
Listers know you by. You'll find me lurking around the various List chat
rooms as "MattDralle".
There's a couple of nifty features I'll explain right off. On the main
Chat Window page after you login, you'll see a little icon with a Hammer
and a Screwdriver. This is the Control Panel window. Once the Control
Panel comes up, click on the "Settings" tab. Here you'll find, among other
things, three check boxes to enable sound. Click all three and you'll be
treated to a sound whenever someone enters or leaves the Room, or when
someone sends a message.
The other cool button is the one that has four little arrows pointing to
each of the four corners of the button. This will rip the main Chat window
from the web page and allow you to resize and move it anyway you'd like.
Let's have some fun and get to know one another better using this awesome
new Chat Room! To get started, just click the URL Link below for this
List's specific Chat Room!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin
PS - I'm working on a web link interface to the chat logfiles. Coming soon...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | 2003 List Fund Raiser - Please Support Your Lists... |
Dear Listers,
During November of each year, I have a voluntary Email List Fund Raiser to
support the continued operation, development, maintenance and upgrade of
the Email Forums sponsored here. Your Contributions go directly into
improvements in the systems that support the Lists and to pay for the
Internet connectivity primarily dedicated to supporting the Lists.
The traffic on the Lists continues to grow and the numbers are nothing
short of impressive! Here are some statistics that show how much traffic
the Lists generated this year alone:
* 11/01/2002 - 10/31/2003
o Web server hits: 10,446,780 (870,565/mo)
o Incoming Email Posts: 58,918 (4,909/mo)
List-related upgrades this year have been plentiful, and List performance
has substantially improved as a result. Upgrades and enhancements this
year have included:
* Internet Connection upgrade to a full, commercial-grade T1 Line!
* New Web Server platform - Dual 3Ghz Xeon with 2Gb Ram and U320 SCSI!
* Upgrade of Email Server platform - Dual 1.7 Ghz Xeon with 1Gb Ram!
* All new SPAM Filtering Appliance - filters about 98% of the unwanted SPAM!
* All new, web-base List Chat Room society!
As you can well imagine, this year's upgrades translate into a fair amount
of cash outlay on my part and this annual List Fund Raiser is the sole
means by which I fund these upgrades. Unlike most of the other "list
servers" on the Web these days, I have a strict
*no-commercial-advertisement policy* on the Matronics Lists and associated
List web sites. I was again approached by a number of vendors recently
with advertising deals that have been very tempting. My commitment to
providing a grass-roots, non-commercial environment prevailed,
however! Commercialism on the Internet seems to be increasing
exponentially every year, with more and more SPAM and pop up ads, not to
mention the ever increasing Virus attacks.
My goal with the Matronics List Service is to provide all members
with a commercial-free, virus-free, and high-performance system
with which the may share information, ideas, and camaraderie.
The best news this year is that, with the gracious help of Andy Gold and
The Builder's Bookstore ( http://www.buildersbooks.com ), I have been able
to significantly expand the lineup of fantastic Gift offers to support the
List Fund Raiser! In all, there are eight awesome free gifts this year
ranging from List Archive CD's to Flight Computers with qualifying
Contribution levels. Those great Jeppesen Flight Bags that were so popular
last year are even back! A special thanks goes out to Andy Gold again this
year for his very kind and generous support of the Lists. Thanks Andy, for
these great incentives!!
Over the next month I'll be posting a few reminder messages about the List
Fund Raiser, and I ask for your patience and understanding during the
process. Remember that the Lists are *completely* funded through the
generous Contributions of its members. That's it! There's no support from
a bloated advertising budget or deep pockets somewhere. Its all made
possible through YOUR thoughtful and generous support!
To make your List Contribution using a Visa or MasterCard, PalPal, or with
a personal check, please go to the URL link below. Here you can find
additional details on this year's great free Gifts as well as information
on the various methods of payment. Contributions in the $20, $30, $50,
$75, and $100 range are common. The Contribution web page is kind of long
this year with the details of each of the gifts, so please scroll all the
way down!
SSL Secure Contribution Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contributions
I would like to thank everyone who supports the Lists this year! Your
Contributions truly make it all possible!!
Thank you!!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | List Fund Raiser - Wow, Have You Seen The Free Gifts? |
Dear Listers,
The List Fund Raiser is going well so far this year and I wanted to say
"Thank You" to everyone that has made a Contribution already this year!
Though the generous support of Andy Gold and the Builders Bookstore (
http://www.buildersbooks.com ), I'm able to offer some truly awesome gifts
with qualifying Contributions this year. There's quite a line up and a
rather diverse set of options - certainly something for every taste and
personality. Here's a list of this year's fine options:
* List Archive CD
* Aircraft Builder's Log
* Pilot Flashlight System
* Pro Pilot Logbook
* FAR/AIM on CD
* Jeppesen Flight Bag
* Aviation History Book
* Techstar Flight Computer
Please support your Email List Community AND pick up a really slick Gift at
the same time! The SSL Secure Contribution web site can be found at the
following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/contributions
Once again, I would like to thank everyone that has so generously supported
the continued operation and upgrade of the Lists Services here on the
Matronics servers!!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Dear Listers,
Below are some of the nice things people have been saying about the Lists
in that little message box on the Contribution form! Thank you to everyone
that has made a Contribution thus far and for all the great
feedback! Please know that I really appreciate the comments and support!!
If you haven't yet shown your support for these Lists, won't you take a
moment and make your Contribution today? The Matronics Lists are always
Commercial-Free, SPAM-Free, Virus-Free, and High-performance and its your
direct support through this yearly Fund Raiser that enables all of these
valuable services you've come to expect.
Thank you for your Contribution!!
SSL Secure Web Site - http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Matt Dralle
EMail List Administrator
================================================================
=================== What Listers Are Saying ====================
================================================================
You provide a service to us kit builders that cannot be measured.
-Clifford M.
...great service to the aviation community.
-Curt R.
Thanks for being there - your List has really been of help.
-Thomas R.
Your lists have been most helpful to my RV-9A project.
-Dean V.
...has been a great help to me.
-Jim N.
..."must-have" for RV builders and pilots.
-Douglas W.
I find something every day on the List that helps me in my project.
-Ron P.
...very valuable!
-Patrick L.
Don't know that I could have persevered and succeeded without the List.
-Curt R.
...service continues to be awesome and is one of the most helpful resources
for homebuilding that I have ever found.
-Jim H.
The information and hours of entertainment many of us derive from the Lists
is priceless.
-Chris R.
I learn a lot about my [aircraft] through the Lists...
- Lee P.
Great source of education and entertainment. Love it!!!
-Lar B.
Great List & very well organized.
-Peter D.
I couldn't build my [airplane] without this List.
-William G.
The List is an important part of my daily routine.
-Roger H.
...incredible resource.
-Ron P.
Excellent facility.
-David M.
...unmatched service to all builders and flyers.
-Ralph C.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [PLEASE READ] - Why Do I Have A Fund Raiser Each Year? |
Dear Listers,
I was thinking that perhaps I should explain why I have a Fund Raiser and
also take the opportunity to express why I think the List Services here
provide a far better experience than the commercial equivalents.
I use the List Fund Raiser each year to offset the costs involved with
running a high performance email list site such as this one. With the
annual support from the List members through the PBS-like Fund Raiser, I
have found I can run the entire site without having to inflect any of the
members with those annoying banner ads flashing up all the time trying to
sell Toner Cartridge Refills or other garbage nobody wants or needs. From
the comments I've received over the years regarding the Lists, the great
majority of the members really appreciate the non-commercialism of my List
systems and don't mind my 'go-team-go' banter once a year to encourage
members to support the Lists.
I believe that the Lists services that I provide here offer a great many
benefits over the commercial equivalents in a number of ways. The first
feature I believe to be particularly significant is that you *cannot*
receive a computer v*rus from any of my Lists directly. I've been on a few
other List servers and have been unfortunate enough to download infected
files people have innocently or not-so-innocently included with their
posts. This just can't happen with my Lists; each incoming message is
filtered and attachments stripped off prior to posting. I provide a Photo
and File Share feature that allows members to share files and bitmaps with
other members and everyone can be assured that these files will be
prescanned for any sort of v*rus before they are posted. Safe and
simple. Also, with this photo and file sharing technique, the Archives
don't get loaded up with a huge amounts of bitmap "data" that slows the
Archive Search times.
Another feature of this system is the extensive List Archives that are
available for download, browsing, and searching. The Archives go all the
way back to the very beginning of each List and with the super fast Search
Engine, the huge size of the Archives is a non-issue in quickly finding the
data you're looking for. Another feature of the Archives, in my opinion,
is that they have been primarily stripped of all the useless email header
data and all the other header garbage that seems to build up in a typical
email thread.
I have received an extremely positive response from Listers regarding the
List Browse feature and the consensus is that the format and ease of use is
outstanding. Members report that having the previous 7 days worth of
messages on line for easy browsing and sorting is hugely beneficial. And
again, as with the real time distribution of List email, the messages are
stripped of all the unnecessary email headers and potentially dangerous
v*ruses.
I've been running email Lists and services under the matronics.com domain
since about 1989 starting with RV-List and 30 guys who I knew and who where
also building RVs. It has grown into over 40 different aviation-related
Email Lists and an associated web site that receives over 10,000,000 hits
each year!! Additionally, the List email system forwards well over
90,000,000 (yes, that 90 MILLION) email messages to subscribers each
year! With all the dot.bombs these days, I think there's a lot of value in
supporting a service that has gone the long haul and is still providing and
improving a high quality service at a price that's nearly free.
I have to admit running these Lists is a labor of love and I hope it shows
in the quality of the experience that you receive when you get a List Email
Message, Search the Archives, or use the List Browser. The Lists will be
here for a long time to come. If you just want to lurk a while for free,
that's great and I encourage you to do so. If you use, appreciate, and
receive value from these Lists, then please support them during the Annual
List Fund Raiser!
-----------------------------------------------
The SSL Secure Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-----------------------------------------------
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | What Listers Are Saying III |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FEWMustang-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 12/04/03 |
What is the proper procedure to intially service the struts as supplied and
is 5606 the fluid to use? Ken Gottschall
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FEWMustang-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 12/04/03 |
Ken,
I'm not an expert, but I'll tell you how I did it.
Yes, I used 5606G hydraulic fluid. With the plane up on jacks, I
removed the strut valve and attached a length of plastic tubing to extend down
into
the can of fluid.
I then pushed the strut to the very top and let it down about three
inches to suck the fluid into the strut. I worked it up and down a few times, and
then blocked the wheel to prevent and air from reentering the strut. Then,
the valve is replaced. Now you should have 2-3 inches of strut showing.
Let the plane down on the gear and use your N2 tank (or strut pump) to
pressurize the struts to the desired level (5-6 in). Check for leaks.
Any of you out there have a better way to do it? LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
(authenticated bits=0)
(envelope-from 44gn(at)kconline.com)
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2003 22:10:58 -0500
From: Gary Gerber <44gn(at)kconline.com>
Subject: tail wheel
Larry....
Question... What type of cable to use from Cockpit to tail wheel lock
up? I think I have the tail wheel working. Does the tail wheel go up
fast? It hits the lock up hard. Can this be adjusted by setting the
micro switch to shut the motor from the pump off just before it locks
up. This should be a good one for you. Hey have a nice day. Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: tail wheel |
Gary,
I have forwarded your message to the FEW builders page, because I'd
like to have other builders see that this can be a useful forum. So far, it has
not caught on, but the information that several of us exchange could be useful
to others, and there are others out there that have useful information for
us. It is really a very easy system to use.
As to your questions:
A 1/16 cable is more than adequate to trip the Lock lever on the
tailwheel. I used a 1/16 Bowden cable just because it is neat and tidy.
The tailwheel comes down and locks in a flash and with a bang,
without any hydraulic action. However, it retracts slowly and gently. Your
problem will be getting it to come up sufficiently to positively engage the Lock
lever. I found it necessary to lengthen the arm of the Elastomeric shock
absorber by ~5/8" with a phenolic wedge inorder to get reliable engagement. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
To KMelvin: Any word from Ed Hullinger as yet regarding to arrival of your
gear reduction unit? LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FEWMustang-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 12/27/03 |
Has anyone come up with a good solution to operate the tailwheel doors? Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gerber <44gn(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: tail wheel |
Larry...
Understand about the Bowden cable. Next question what kind of handle do I use?
I
would need the bowden cable clamp also?
My hyd action for the tail wheel does not retract slowly it comes up now. If yours
is slowly and gently how do I fix that? It does lock up positively no problem
there.
Next question... What is the hook up at the tail wheel so you can install the cable
to make it swivel? Is there a special fitting?
Enough for today. Having an extended Christmas dinner to day. Take Care Gary
LRE2(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Gary,
> I have forwarded your message to the FEW builders page, because I'd
> like to have other builders see that this can be a useful forum. So far, it
has
> not caught on, but the information that several of us exchange could be useful
> to others, and there are others out there that have useful information for
> us. It is really a very easy system to use.
> As to your questions:
> A 1/16 cable is more than adequate to trip the Lock lever on the
> tailwheel. I used a 1/16 Bowden cable just because it is neat and tidy.
> The tailwheel comes down and locks in a flash and with a bang,
> without any hydraulic action. However, it retracts slowly and gently. Your
> problem will be getting it to come up sufficiently to positively engage the Lock
> lever. I found it necessary to lengthen the arm of the Elastomeric shock
> absorber by ~5/8" with a phenolic wedge inorder to get reliable engagement.
LRE
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gerber <44gn(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FEWMustang-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 12/27/03 |
Ken... In the Mustang Express that Dennis Turner put out. I can fax it to you.
Maybe you have it. Gary
PolymerDesign(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Has anyone come up with a good solution to operate the tailwheel doors? Ken
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Melvinke(at)aol.com |
Not a thing! I will email him today. K.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FEWMustang-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 12/27/03 |
Plse fax it to me but call first so i can coordinate things. Were there any
pixs?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: tail wheel |
I've got Huey's set up on the swivel which I'll bring with me when I come up
next month. Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FEWMustang-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 12/27/03 |
Ken G
The retractable tailwheel doors were a challenge, but they are working
well for me now. I tried the aluminum hoop mechanism described in the Mustang
Express article. It worked sometimes, but not consistently, due, I think, to
the sort of "catch as catch can" geometry of the set up.
Jim sent out a drawing of a mechanism using "bungie cords" As drawn, it
didn't work, but with a few modifications, it does work, and that is what I am
using, and I am pleased with the consistency of the mechanism..
A major problem that I found was finding the "rat trap" springs to fit
on the piano hinges of the doors, to securely close them. I wound up making a
"spring winder" tool and using 0.0625 music wire to make the springs. Sounds
hard, but is pretty easy, once you figure it out. I can help you with this if
you'd like. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: tail wheel |
Gary,
Yes, I used bowden clamps, but appropriately sized and placed Adel
clamps would work as well.
I'm not sure how to explain the retraction speed of your tailwheel, but
I expect that it has to do with the fact that you don't have the whole system
online yet, and are pumping just the small cylinder, so your hydraulic pump
is way more powerful that you need to actuate the cylinder. Once you have
everything online, the pump will take longer to build pressure and the activating
speed will be slower.
I Nikopressed the tailwheel end of the Bowden cable to an eye bolt
with a long threaded shank to allow for adjustment. The cockpit end of the cable
(the Handle as you describe) attaches to the Main gear actuating lever, so
that whenever you move the gear handle to the "lower" position, the tailwheel
lock lever is released. You don't need any other "handle." I have drawings for
this if you need them. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FEWMustang-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 12/27/03 |
Thanks for the info. Do you have drawings or pixs showing what you did? I
have nothing to visualize the system in my paperwork. I'm close to wing mate
and I'd like to knock out the tailwheel system this winter. Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
I'm ready to start some priming of the micro, prepreg, and Aeropoxy/glass
layups. My local PPG dealer is not knowledgeable of such. I know that I need
to
start with an epoxy primer and then move to a urethane primer but am not
knowledgeable about the steps. Do I do a non -sandable epoxy primer first and
then immediately move to urethane primer before wet sanding or? Also I want to
spray silver topcoat but not do any buffing or polishing , so as to eliminate a
clear top coat. Is this realisitc? I'm in STL area where several high class
truck trailer painting booths are available. Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
Ken G.
My 2 cents worth. I tried several primer systems and then found the
SITS POLYFIBER Waterbased polyurathane system. It eliminates the need for an
epoxy base, includes a UV protection, is odorless, nontoxic, fuelproof and
compatible with their topcoat, TopGloss, or Aerothane, or Imron, or most std auto
paints.
The primer is called SMOOTH PRIME, and can be ordered from Aircraft
Spruce, or directly from the supplier, I can give you a 1-800 #
You will need to fill major weave patterns and or glass defects with
thin micro first. sand to #220. then, the beauty of this stuff is that if you
ROLL on a couple of fairly thin coats and sand it until you think it is gone,
you will have FILLED THE PINHOLES. (a big deal). then spray on 2 or three
more coats, and sand to #320 and you are there.
A nice characteristic of this waterbased primer, is that for the first
5-7 days (depending on temperature), it is soft and easy to sand. Then it
starts getting harder and harder.
Spraying on a metallic silver top coat is another matter. My paint
friends tell me that this is the hardest thing to do, because getting even
dispersment of the metalic fragments requires a high degree of skill. If you get
everything nicely primed, A little professional help with the topcoat might be
in order. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gerber <44gn(at)kconline.com> |
Question...
If I put AN4-3a in the P-2 location you can not slide the tail wheel box
into the fuselage. The bolt sticks out and will not let the box slide
into place. What is the solution?
Question...
At the tail wheel steering lock assembly. Is there a thimble small
enough to go behind the roll pin?
Thanks Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
On Huey's set up he didn't use a thimble because of thhe tightness of the
roll pin cable, etc. He just nicropressed a sleeve in place and appears to work
ok. Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
Gary,
Put the P-2 bolts in after the box is in place. A tight fit, but
do-able. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
In my wonderful manual, I've got no pages where part numbers are shown for
reference; neither P-2 or the pair of arms in the tailwheel that Ed is building
for me now. Could I get a page faxed or emailed me on this vital. Plse call
first if you are going to fax. Thanks Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
Ken G.
First, re The Stits Polyfiber system. I'd recommend you contact them
directly @1-800-362-3490. They are nice people and are glad to answer questions
and give advise. They will ship directly to you, cutting both time and $$ as
opposed to ordering from ACS. Be sure to ask for the "Bubba Sez" Instruction
manual which will save you a lot of trial and error.
Also look closely at"SuperFil" a lightweight catalyzed filler that
won't "powderize" with time and exposure, like Hobbylite or Epoxylite.
Re tailwheel instructions... What do you need? I can fax you pages
that I have, that gave me enough information to successfully complete mine, but
I'll need a FAX #. or, if you like, I can snail mail copies of all my pages.
I'll need a current mailing address. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
To all FEW builders who are receiving these FEW Builders communications.
Who all is out there? Would you be willing to tell those of us who are
sharing, who all is on line, also phone numbers and addresses, Fax # if you
have them.
This is clearly a grass roots attempt to get people talking. Nobody is
selling anything.
I keep hearing that FEW builders can't get any help. Lets help each
other.
To start the ball rolling, I am
Larry Eidemiller
5051 SW Downs View Ct.
Portland Oregon, 97221
1-503-297-2104
Fax 1-503-203-1534
E-mail lre2(at)aol.com
I have completed my TF airframe to the firewall, including landing
gear operations. I have rebuilt the engine mount to fit the FEW Hyvo Chain
drive. I am using a 383 cu in torquer engine, and a Whirlwind CS prop. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: tail wheel / communication |
Sorry Guys, I've been so busy getting PSRU work done that I've been away from
this site lately.
Ken,
If needed, I can send you any manual pages that are missing as I have all the
manual building / assembling information, as well as the individual part
manufacturing drawings here. "In my spare time" I am converting all of the
original hand drawings from FEW to CAD so that future manuals will be much more
informative and understandable.
Larry,
I'm going to take all of the current e-mail address I have and send another
message out to the guys we aren't hearing from. I don't understand why more of
us aren't tuned into this site.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gerber <44gn(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Communications |
In answer to Larry Eidemiller...
I am Gerald L. (Gary ) Gerber
6956 East Waco Drive
Syracuse, IN 46567
1-574 457 5924
Fax 1 574 457 5924
Cell 1 574-536 7005
email 44gn(at)kconline.com
I have my wing just about ready for the gear, I have the FEW
prototype fuselage little friend one. I'm now working on the tail wheel box.
I
have it installed and ready to hook up to pump to check out the movement. No
engine or PSRU or prop. Gary
LRE2(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> To all FEW builders who are receiving these FEW Builders communications.
> Who all is out there? Would you be willing to tell those of us who are
> sharing, who all is on line, also phone numbers and addresses, Fax # if you
> have them.
> This is clearly a grass roots attempt to get people talking. Nobody is
> selling anything.
> I keep hearing that FEW builders can't get any help. Lets help each
> other.
>
> To start the ball rolling, I am
> Larry Eidemiller
> 5051 SW Downs View Ct.
> Portland Oregon, 97221
> 1-503-297-2104
> Fax 1-503-203-1534
> E-mail lre2(at)aol.com
> I have completed my TF airframe to the firewall, including landing
> gear operations. I have rebuilt the engine mount to fit the FEW Hyvo Chain
> drive. I am using a 383 cu in torquer engine, and a Whirlwind CS prop. LRE
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Gary, and anyone else out there listening.
The idea and advantage of the builders list, is to build dialog,
and share information. The disadvantages are that everyone gets to listen in
and add their opinion (maybe that's and advantage), and that you can't sent
photos, due to the anti virus protection.
However, we can share photos other ways.
To use, go to your address book and create a name, FEW Builders list,(
or what ever you choose,) and then copy this address for it:
fewmustang-list(at)matronics.com
That's all there is to it.
As to your question of what fuel senders to use. That is a matter
of opinion. The main fuel cells are set up to use Mitchell float type
senders.( see ACS) They fit, and will work OK. I am using them in my main tanks.
However, they are susceptible to mechanical binding and corrosion. The good
news is that they are cheap and easy to replace.
I am using Capacitance senders in my auxiliary tanks. They are
said to be more reliable, but are expensive and difficult to replace and
calibrate. Were I to do it over, I think I would go with the Mitchell's and a
carefully marked dip stick. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gerber <44gn(at)kconline.com> |
Hi guys...
Can't remember who told me about the fuel return line if you have fuel
injection motor. Question.. where does the return line go in to the
fuel tank? The same area as the pick up or to the top of the tank?
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
Gary,
I'm hoping that Ed will join in on this one, because he is by far and
away the expert. I think that you need to determine the fuel injection system
that you are going to use. AirFlow Performance is probably the standout in
this area. They provide a number of acceptable plumbing diagrams for managing
the "Return Flow"
which I understand to be the fuel that is over pressure, and thus must return
to the Tank.
Where ever you decide to return this fuel It would seem to be best to
return it to the top of the tank, rather than the bottom LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
Gary,
My feeling is that it is always the best if you can return the fuel to an
area that offers the lowest back pressure or head pressure; normally the highest
point practical.
A little of this depends upon how your tanks flow; outer to inner on each
wing half via gravity or you may have completely separated them and can switch
between all four independently. If your tanks flow together and are simply
joined at the baggage / gun bay access, as is the prototype, the inner tanks will
always be fairly, if not completely full and have "head pressure" on any return
port location on the inners until the outers have been consumed, thus keeping
any return port underwater, so to speak, until the inner's fuel levels have
dropped below this point. It's not practical to return the fuel to the wing
tips, so the rule of thumb would be is stick with the highest point available on
the inners. With the Airflow Performance system any place will do, as the fuel
is returned in this system under pressure; pressure higher than the pressure
in your properly vented tanks will ever be. The Airflow system doesn't read or
need the data from the amount of returned fuel so don't worry about damaging
any signal the system needs by returning it to a "covered return port". If you
choose to use the LS1 / LS6 Chevy and it's fuel system, there is no return
from the F.I.. If you are planning to use another type of F.I. let me know, and
I'll be glad to look at it's needs for you. My advise is to put the return
where you can do it with the best integrity and plumb it practically. The center
or top of the tank, either one, it won't really matter much here. Keep it
simple!
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Oliver" <rocslo(at)charter.net> |
Gary: I agree with Ed H., it really depends on the fuel injection system used.
I have the Airflow Performance unit on my engine and I return the fuel back into
the feed line per a drawing # 6 that I got from airflow performance. They
show a system of returning the fuel back to both tanks or as an alternate, back
into the feed line from the fuel selector to the fuel pumps. I set mine up
to feed back from the regulator bypass into the fuel line between the fuel selector
and the dual fuel pumps using all 3/8 tubing. The advantage to recycling
is that you are not returning the fuel to any particular tank and thus keep
a handle on fuel usage. Just as a general note, I burn about 19 GPH on take
off power (4500RPM) then am down to about 11.8 GPH at cruise power of 3400 RPM.
In 167 hours of flying, I have had zero problems with my Airflow system.
Robert
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
Hi Bob. Can you give us some more flight info on your plane since you've
got so many hours? Cruise at full throttle and at 3400rpm? And stall and
approach speeds? Also which redrive you're using and hp of engine. Etc. Ken
Gottschall
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gerber <44gn(at)kconline.com> |
Thanks to you all for your answer to my Fuel question...I will save the
email in my file.
I'm not ready for the engine yet but needed to make sure I have the
fittings in the fuel cells before I close out the wing.
Take care Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Information needed for the RFA newsletter |
Guys,
Gary Gerber has suggested, as I have in the past, that we submit a little
detail to Tom Preuss for the RFA newsletter and help get FEW back on the radar
screen. The deadline for submissions into the next newsletter is 2/15/04. If you
want, send anything interesting to me and I'll get it in Tom's hands in time
to get us on board. I plan to get plenty to Tom on the status of FEW (just as
soon as I figure out what that is!) and on the progress we've made on the
PSRU. I hope that we can all get a bunch of stuff into him and get the FEW ball
rolling yet again.
Ed Hullinger
My kit is a TF / LS6 engine / FEW PSRU / Whirlwind prop. This aircraft is in
the primer / paint, wiring, and plumbing stage. Really think it will get up
later this year.
I also have here the FEW prototype TF / ZZ3 (soon to be LS1) / FEW PSRU / MT
prop. Its undergoing a ton of clean up work. I'm trying to take the "prototype
mistakes" out of it. Should be flying soon.
948 Tourmaline Drive
Newbury Park, CA 91320
805.499.9737 / 805.402.1554 / 805.493.2420
hms23turbo(at)aol.com / ehullinger(at)msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Merle Wagner" <MerleWagner(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | RE: FEWMustang-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 01/04/04 |
Ed,
Curious as to the status of the FEW PSRU. I currently have 2 51 projects.
One is a SAL51 and the other a Boeve p-51. I have been leaning towards the
Geschwender but wondering if the FEW unit will be available to non FEW
projects, etc.
Merle Wagner
Spring Hill, FL
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
FEWMustang-List Digest Server
Subject: FEWMustang-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 01/04/04
*
==================================================
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
==================================================
Today's complete FEWMustang-List Digest can be also be found in either
of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked
Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII
version of the FEWMustang-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic
text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/fewmustang-list/Digest.FEWMustang-List.2004-
01-04.html
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/fewmustang-list/Digest.FEWMustang-List.2004-
01-04.txt
================================================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
================================================
FEWMustang-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Sun 01/04/04: 3
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:03 AM - Re: Fuel system (PolymerDesign(at)aol.com)
2. 10:54 AM - fuel (Gary Gerber)
3. 12:24 PM - Information needed for the RFA newsletter
(HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com)
________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
From: PolymerDesign(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: FEWMustang-List: Fuel system
Hi Bob. Can you give us some more flight info on your plane since you've
got so many hours? Cruise at full throttle and at 3400rpm? And stall and
approach speeds? Also which redrive you're using and hp of engine. Etc.
Ken
Gottschall
________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
From: Gary Gerber <44gn(at)kconline.com>
Subject: FEWMustang-List: fuel
Thanks to you all for your answer to my Fuel question...I will save the
email in my file.
I'm not ready for the engine yet but needed to make sure I have the
fittings in the fuel cells before I close out the wing.
Take care Gary
________________________________ Message 3
_____________________________________
From: HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com
Subject: FEWMustang-List: Information needed for the RFA newsletter
Guys,
Gary Gerber has suggested, as I have in the past, that we submit a little
detail to Tom Preuss for the RFA newsletter and help get FEW back on the
radar
screen. The deadline for submissions into the next newsletter is 2/15/04. If
you
want, send anything interesting to me and I'll get it in Tom's hands in time
to get us on board. I plan to get plenty to Tom on the status of FEW (just
as
soon as I figure out what that is!) and on the progress we've made on the
PSRU. I hope that we can all get a bunch of stuff into him and get the FEW
ball
rolling yet again.
Ed Hullinger
My kit is a TF / LS6 engine / FEW PSRU / Whirlwind prop. This aircraft is in
the primer / paint, wiring, and plumbing stage. Really think it will get up
later this year.
I also have here the FEW prototype TF / ZZ3 (soon to be LS1) / FEW PSRU / MT
prop. Its undergoing a ton of clean up work. I'm trying to take the
"prototype
mistakes" out of it. Should be flying soon.
948 Tourmaline Drive
Newbury Park, CA 91320
805.499.9737 / 805.402.1554 / 805.493.2420
hms23turbo(at)aol.com / ehullinger(at)msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tore S. Bristol" <tf51(at)c2i.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: FEWMustang-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 01/04/04 |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Merle Wagner" <MerleWagner(at)verizon.net>
Subject: FEWMustang-List: RE: FEWMustang-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 01/04/04
>
> Ed,
>
> Curious as to the status of the FEW PSRU. I currently have 2 51 projects.
> One is a SAL51 and the other a Boeve p-51. I have been leaning towards
the
> Geschwender but wondering if the FEW unit will be available to non FEW
> projects, etc.
>
> Merle Wagner
> Spring Hill, FL
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> FEWMustang-List Digest Server
> To: FEWMustang-List Digest List
> Subject: FEWMustang-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 01/04/04
>
> Hi Merle!
I am a FEW TF 51 builder, and have a FEW PSRU ready for delivery( I think)
Surprised Ed --HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com- has not come back to You ( he is doing
the PSRU now)
But then again I have not heard from him as promised either.
You also could try Robert Oliver, he probably is the one with the most
experience
with the it-.rocslo(at)charter.net
Regards
Tore S Bristol
Lake City, FL/ Norway
> *
>
> ==================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> ==================================================
>
> Today's complete FEWMustang-List Digest can be also be found in either
> of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
> formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked
> Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII
> version of the FEWMustang-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic
> text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/fewmustang-list/Digest.FEWMustang-List.2004-
> 01-04.html
>
> Text Version:
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/fewmustang-list/Digest.FEWMustang-List.2004-
> 01-04.txt
>
>
> ================================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ================================================
>
>
> FEWMustang-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Sun 01/04/04: 3
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 07:03 AM - Re: Fuel system (PolymerDesign(at)aol.com)
> 2. 10:54 AM - fuel (Gary Gerber)
> 3. 12:24 PM - Information needed for the RFA newsletter
> (HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com)
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
> _____________________________________
>
>
> From: PolymerDesign(at)aol.com
> Subject: Re: FEWMustang-List: Fuel system
>
>
> Hi Bob. Can you give us some more flight info on your plane since you've
> got so many hours? Cruise at full throttle and at 3400rpm? And stall and
> approach speeds? Also which redrive you're using and hp of engine.
Etc.
> Ken
>
> Gottschall
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
> _____________________________________
>
>
> From: Gary Gerber <44gn(at)kconline.com>
> Subject: FEWMustang-List: fuel
>
>
> Thanks to you all for your answer to my Fuel question...I will save the
> email in my file.
>
> I'm not ready for the engine yet but needed to make sure I have the
> fittings in the fuel cells before I close out the wing.
>
> Take care Gary
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 3
> _____________________________________
>
>
> From: HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com
> Subject: FEWMustang-List: Information needed for the RFA newsletter
>
>
> Guys,
>
> Gary Gerber has suggested, as I have in the past, that we submit a little
> detail to Tom Preuss for the RFA newsletter and help get FEW back on the
> radar
>
> screen. The deadline for submissions into the next newsletter is 2/15/04.
If
> you
>
> want, send anything interesting to me and I'll get it in Tom's hands in
time
> to get us on board. I plan to get plenty to Tom on the status of FEW (just
> as
> soon as I figure out what that is!) and on the progress we've made on the
> PSRU. I hope that we can all get a bunch of stuff into him and get the FEW
> ball
>
> rolling yet again.
>
> Ed Hullinger
>
> My kit is a TF / LS6 engine / FEW PSRU / Whirlwind prop. This aircraft is
in
> the primer / paint, wiring, and plumbing stage. Really think it will get
up
> later this year.
>
> I also have here the FEW prototype TF / ZZ3 (soon to be LS1) / FEW PSRU /
MT
> prop. Its undergoing a ton of clean up work. I'm trying to take the
> "prototype
>
> mistakes" out of it. Should be flying soon.
>
>
> 948 Tourmaline Drive
> Newbury Park, CA 91320
> 805.499.9737 / 805.402.1554 / 805.493.2420
> hms23turbo(at)aol.com / ehullinger(at)msn.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: FEWMustang-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 01/04/04 |
Tore,
Merle and I have exchanged several e-mails away from the Builders List since
his request for information. That's the problem with this site; everything
becomes a public forum.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Merle Wagner" <MerleWagner(at)verizon.net> |
Tore,
Just to back up Ed... He did get in touch with me off-line from the forum
(which I greatly appreciate). Thanks Ed.
Good luck on your project. Hope to hear more here relative to your progress.
I am currently in a stalled process as I am relocating from Florida to New
Hamsphire. That is what retirement does to you.......
Merle
>
> Hi Merle!
I am a FEW TF 51 builder, and have a FEW PSRU ready for delivery( I think)
Surprised Ed --HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com- has not come back to You ( he is doing
the PSRU now)
But then again I have not heard from him as promised either.
You also could try Robert Oliver, he probably is the one with the most
experience
with the it-.rocslo(at)charter.net
Regards
Tore S Bristol
Lake City, FL/ Norway
From: HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: FEWMustang-List: RE: FEWMustang-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 01/04/04
Tore,
Merle and I have exchanged several e-mails away from the Builders List since
his request for information. That's the problem with this site; everything
becomes a public forum.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gerber <44gn(at)kconline.com> |
Hi guys..
Here is George Bertwells email address...
birddog(at)onlinemac.com
He has moved to Amity, OR I don't have an address. May be you could
give him a line or two and get him back in the fold. Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gerber <44gn(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | [Fwd: [Fwd: Lady Nelda flys]] |
Here is more exciting news. So get your project in the air. Gary
(envelope-from LRE2(at)aol.com)
(envelope-from LRE2(at)aol.com)
From: LRE2(at)aol.com
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 19:18:39 EST
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Lady Nelda flys]
barryair(at)intersurfusa.com, team-38(at)TEAM-38.com,
dbuchanan(at)taskresearch.com, alexanmh(at)gtcinternet.com,
HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com, andy_lindaanderson(at)msn.com,
cropjet(at)northnet.com.au, tf51(at)c2i.net, brookerg(at)optushome.com.au,
ccavallaro(at)hotmail.com, mustang(at)rucc.net.au, delam(at)glatmos.com,
EHHooper(at)aol.com, c.hoyle(at)attbi.com, 72032.410(at)compuserve.com,
jan.notnes(at)c2i.net, jensen(at)bbc.net, glazik(at)wgn.net,
george737ual(at)sbcglobal.net, rocslo(at)charter.net, hkcmt(at)northnet.org,
MWatson83(at)aol.com, wicko(at)pac.com.au, GAMBATE(at)aol.com
Gary, Thanks for the FWD from Tom Preuss about the initial flight of his
Loehle 5151, Lady Nelda. He's been working on that plane for a long time. It's
nice to hear that he's airborne. Gives us FEW guys a boost to "keep on
truckin." LRE
Gary, Thanks for the FWD from Tom Preuss about the initial flight of his Loehle
5151, Lady Nelda. He's been working on that plane for a long time. It's nice
to hear that he's=20airborne. Gives us FEW guys a boost to "keep on truckin."
LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Cahoon @ Aircraft Engravers" <wayne(at)engravers.net> |
, ,
, ,
, ,
, ,
, ,
, ,
, ,
, ,
, ,
, ,
, ,
, ,
, ,
,
| Subject: | Fuel Cap Engraving, Labeling, Indentifying |
Have your Fuel Caps engraved, it's permanent and easy to read. Aircraft Engravers
has been engraving fuel caps for over 14 years.
You can see our web page at http://engravers.net/aircraft/fuel_caps.htm
Other types of engraving jobs can be viewed at http://engravers.net/main/ac_products.htm
There are a few sets of loaner fuel caps for the more common styles if your tanks
are wet.
FREE shipping by USPS Priority mail for all fuel cap engraving orders in the month
of February.
Wayne Cahoon
Aircraft Engravers
(860) 653-2780
(860) 653-7324 Fax
http://engravers.net/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Oliver" <rocslo(at)charter.net> |
Hi Ken: Sorry about the delay in getting back to your questions back on the
4th. Have been out of town. I have a TF-51 with the stock ZZ3 Chevy 350
engine, 86 inch MT prop, the FEW PSRU reduction unit, Airflow performance
fuel injection system, and the MSD ignition system. Originally I had the
Blackhawk PSRU unit on it but was never happy with it because it did not
seem aircraft grade. The new FEW unit is really aircraft grade and I am
more than pleased with it. I have about 20 hours on it and Ed Hullinger put
another 11 hours on it on a test stand. I take off at full throttle and
4500 RPM, pull back to 4300 RPM in the climb and get an easy 2000 FPM in
climb with a fuel burn of about 20 GPH. I generally cruise at 22 inches MP
and 3400 RPM. at a speed of about 180 - 190 MPH and a fuel burn of 11.8 gph.
I have had the a/c up to 290 mph in a test dive and other than heavy on the
controls, no problems. My stall clean is about 78 MPH and with flaps and
gear down, about 70 MPH. I am using the gear design as furnished by Jim
Kern and have had no problems with it in the total hours I have flown. Have
never had to use the emergency gear release but have tried it in flight and
it worked fine. I am using the stock oil pan that came with the engine and
have never seen any oil pressure fluctuations in flight but have never flown
it inverted. I use a Corvette heat exchanger between the oil filter and
engine for oil cooling. My oil will get up to about 215 F in climb but
drops down to about 190 F in cruise. My water temp. stays about 195 F which
is my thermostat temp. The PSRU runs about 160F. The PSRU has its own
dedicated oil system. I always fly with air scoop door closed in flight. I
land the a/c with 20 degrees of laps and make wheel landings as that is the
way it seems to want to land. It is really well tamed on the ground and
does not seem to have any bad habits in the air. It does have a lot of
rudder which needs watching. I do not notice any particular torque on
takeoff. I feel that I have more than sufficient power but have never flown
with anyone in the back seat, although have flown with 175 pounds of lead
shot in the back seat and it felt fine. The aircraft is a real attention
getter at the airports and am always getting requests for a flyby. I hope
this answers most of the questions you may have and if you need more info,
let me know. Robert Oliver
----- Original Message -----
From: <PolymerDesign(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: FEWMustang-List: Fuel system
>
> Hi Bob. Can you give us some more flight info on your plane since you've
> got so many hours? Cruise at full throttle and at 3400rpm? And stall and
> approach speeds? Also which redrive you're using and hp of engine.
Etc. Ken
> Gottschall
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Robert,
Thanks for sharing good information.
What does your a/c weigh, empty, and Ramp weight? I like those Vsi/Vso
numbers.
Do you have an idea of top speed, i.e. balls to the wall at 5000 ft?
Tell us more about "It does have a lot of rudder which needs watching"
Thanks LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
Thanks for the detailed info. It sure gets my juices flowing. I'll be
starting the landing gear actuation system in a couple of weeks. Do you have
changes to the basic sytem and hardware> I know Huey Long had a alot of
adjustments necessary. It would work great 5 times in a row and then some problem
mostly sequential would effect cycle 6 while on the jacks? Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gerber <44gn(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FEWMustang-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 01/25/04 |
Robert....
Thanks for all the information. Will need that as we build the project towards
flying. Any
other information about installing the gear would be helpful. Thanks again and
take care. We
need this stuff to keep the juices flowing. Gary
FEWMustang-List Digest Server wrote:
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> ---
> Total Messages Posted Sun 01/25/04: 2
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> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 05:54 PM - Good Info (LRE2(at)aol.com)
> 2. 06:02 PM - Re: Good Info (PolymerDesign(at)aol.com)
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________
>
> From: LRE2(at)aol.com
> Subject: FEWMustang-List: Good Info
>
>
> Robert,
> Thanks for sharing good information.
>
> What does your a/c weigh, empty, and Ramp weight? I like those Vsi/Vso
> numbers.
> Do you have an idea of top speed, i.e. balls to the wall at 5000 ft?
> Tell us more about "It does have a lot of rudder which needs watching"
> Thanks LRE
>
> ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________
>
> From: PolymerDesign(at)aol.com
> Subject: Re: FEWMustang-List: Good Info
>
>
> Thanks for the detailed info. It sure gets my juices flowing. I'll be
> starting the landing gear actuation system in a couple of weeks. Do you have
> changes to the basic sytem and hardware> I know Huey Long had a alot of
> adjustments necessary. It would work great 5 times in a row and then some problem
>
> mostly sequential would effect cycle 6 while on the jacks? Ken
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wayne(at)engravers.net |
Mail transaction failed. Partial message is available.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | westonjudy(at)earthlink.net |
The message contains Unicode characters and has been sent as a binary attachment.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Worrisome messages |
I have received 2 messages on the FEWMustang list today that have
included error messages and offered downloads. The legitimate Matronics List
does not allow downloads, as a form of virus protection. I am very suspicous
that these are not legitimate massages, and may be related to MyDoom.
Legitimate FEWMustang list messages will never include an attachment of
download. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gerber <44gn(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | [Fwd: Test fright # 4 & 5] |
Hello to you.
Here is the information that Tom Preuss has on his test flight. Enjoy.
Gary
(envelope-from RFAPrez1(at)aol.com)
(envelope-from RFAPrez1(at)aol.com)
From: RFAPrez1(at)aol.com
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 17:17:48 EST
Subject: Re: Test fright # 4 & 5
clzue(at)valley.net, alexanmh(at)gtcinternet.com, team-38(at)team-38.com,
corsair82(at)adelphia.net, n51vm(at)bellsouth.net, laddy(at)pctcnet.net,
steven.j.hoffman(at)medtronic.com, JKD3252(at)Yahoo.com, gclark(at)mchsi.com,
RFAGrasshopper(at)aol.com, rogerbocox(at)ryko.com
Hi folks:
I did test FRIGHT # 4 and #5 this morning.
In order to verify the tail heavy problem I put the plane back on the
scales and worked out the CG with me in the cockpit. It seems there was an
arithmetic error in the first set of calculations. When we did it again we
found a significant difference of about 5 inches aft of the rear most CG point.
So we started hanging lead slugs on various parts of the nose close to
where I would likely place then permanently. With my fat butt in the cockpit
and the seat back moved forward 3 inches we found that it would take about 50
lbs to get it in ballance.
I made patterns and then poured lead slugs that are now mounted in the
bottom of the nose bowl, bolted to some of the unused engine bosses and at
the firewall. The ones on the nose bowl weight 14.5 lbs, on the engine 10 lbs
and another 17 lbs on the firewall. I also placed about 20 lbs behind the
firewall ahead of the fuel tank. So I now have 76.5 lbs in the nose of this
airplane.
I took her out this morning for the first fright. There was a very
slight tail wind on 33, maybe about 3-5 mph. I wanted to use this runway
because it is all open fields on the opposite end for emergency landings. The
plane
was airborn in about 250 ft and, on climb out, the extra weight was
noticable. I climbed out at 70 mph to 1000 ft out over some fields to the west
and
made various combinations of engine RPM and attitude. I found that the speeds
were about where they were on the previous flights. Only the rate of climb
seemed different which is to be expected. The most important improvement was that
I needed very little nose down trim to make it fly correctly
I returned to the field and landed. I was too low and had to add power
as it does want to sink more quickly now. The landing was not very pretty
but it was controlable with only one or two not very hard bounces. I taxied back
to my hanger for an inspection and to see if the wind was going to pick up or
not.
Inspection revealed I still have a small oil leak. So tomorrow I'm
going to pull the cowling again and then, if it isnt raining, run it at high
power for a while to see if I can find it.
The second flight was about the same. Went out over the open fields
and did some turns, low power decents and high power climbs while making
shallow turns right and left. Every thing seemed normal and my new airspeed
indicator works fine. The highest speed seen was just over 90 in a slight decent
with 5000 rpm. I'm sure I could push it up over the VNE easily with just a
little more nose down attitude and I'm going to have to watch that carefully.
The second landing was picture perfect. I set up on final at about
450 ft and aimed for about 300 ft. down the runway. I kept the speed at 70 and
flew it down to the runway. As soon as I was stabilized in ground effect I
pulled power and let her sink with forward pressure on the stick. The wheels
touched, skipped and we were down. I kept the stick forward untill the tail
dropped on its own. The plane rolls straight ahead with very little attention
to
the rudder. The tires are still a bit soft at 25 lbs so I will take them up to
30 pounds for the next flight.
So, I have a bit more confidence in both the airplane and myself now.
Total flight time is 2.3 hours. The engine runs very smooth but it looks like
I'm going to have to cut an inch off the prop blades. I'm only getting 5,100
rpm rolling and It needs to be 5,400 and preferably 55.
End of report.
Hi folks:
I did test FRIGHT # 4 and #5 this morning.
In order to verify the tail heavy problem I put the plane back on the scales and
worked out the CG with me in the cockpit. It seems there was an arithmetic
error in the first set of calculations. When we did it again we found a significant
difference=20of about 5 inches aft of the rear most CG point.
So we started hanging lead slugs on various parts of the nose close to where I
would likely place then permanently. With my fat butt in the cockpit and the
seat back moved forward 3 inches we found that it would take about 50 lbs to get
it in ballance.
I made patterns and then poured lead slugs that are now mounted in the bottom
of the nose bowl, bolted to some=20of the unused engine bosses and at the firewall.
The ones on the nose=20bowl weight 14.5 lbs, on the engine 10 lbs and another
17 lbs on the firewall. I also placed about 20 lbs behind the firewall ahead
of the fuel tank. So I now have 76.5 lbs in the nose of this airplane.
I took her out this morning for the first fright. There was a very slight tail
wind on 33, maybe about 3-5 mph. I wanted to use this runway because it is all
open fields on the opposite end for emergency landings. The plane was airborn
in about=20250 ft and, on climb out, the extra weight was noticable. I climbed
out at 70 mph to 1000 ft out over some fields to the west and made various
combinations of engine RPM and attitude. I found that the speeds were about where
they were on the previous flights. Only the rate of climb seemed different
which is to be expected. The most important improvement was that I needed very
little nose down trim to make it fly correctly
I returned to the field and landed. I was too low and had to add power as it does
want to sink more quickly now. The landing was not very pretty but it was
controlable with only one or two not very hard bounces. I taxied back to my hanger
for an inspection=20and to see if the wind was going to pick up or not.
Inspection revealed I still have a=20small oil leak. So tomorrow I'm going to
pull the cowling again and then, if it isnt raining, run it at high power for
a while to see if I can find it.
The second flight was about the same. Went out over the open fields and did some
turns, low power decents and high power climbs while making shallow turns right
and left. Every thing seemed normal and my new airspeed indicator works fine.
The highest speed seen was just over 90 in a slight decent with 5000 rpm.
I'm sure I could push it up over the VNE easily with just a little more nose
down attitude and I'm going to have to watch that carefully.
The second landing was picture perfect. I set up on final at about 450 ft and
aimed for about 300 ft. down the runway. I kept the speed at 70 and flew it down
to the runway. As soon as I was stabilized in ground effect I pulled power
and let her sink=20with forward pressure on the stick. The wheels touched, skipped
and we were down. I kept the stick forward untill the tail dropped on its
own. The plane rolls straight ahead with very little attention to the rudder.=20The
tires are still a bit soft at 25 lbs so I will take them up to 30 pounds
for the next flight.
So, I have a bit more confidence in both the airplane and myself now. Total flight
time is 2.3 hours. The engine runs very smooth but it looks like I'm going
to have to cut an inch=20off the prop blades. I'm only getting 5,100 rpm rolling
and It needs to be 5,400 and preferably 55.
End of report.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Worrisome messages |
Thanks Larry for keeping us up to date on this and other info on our P-51.
Saw Gary's plane and saw the UV Smooth prime. Looked real good and minimal
sanding. You did not use the Pre- prime Sealer first? I've got several parts
out of carbon fiber like the wing fairings where the lay up is thin and rough
with fiber showing. Boy, the Bubba instruction manual is critical. Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Worrisome messages |
Ken G;
On any parts that are rough, with fiber showing, I used either Super Fil
(another PolyFiber product) or micro to smooth out the surface. Superfil is
easier to use, but lots more spendy.
A trick that I used to fill in open grain is to mix micro VERY dry. So
dry that its hard to spread, and doesn't adhere well. Then thin it to the
consistency of yogurt with acetone. (easy does it) Spread it on with a paint
brush, and smooth it quickly. The acetone evaporates quickly leaving a smooth,
thin coat of dry micro to cure. It's easy to sand and has fewer pinholes. I
don't know if Jim would approve, but it has worked well for me.( I the idea
from a guy at Composites Unlimited)
On relatively smooth surfaces, like wing skins, gear doors, etc, just
go straight to the UV Smooth Prime. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
Jan,
It was good to hear from you this evening and get your current e-mail
address. If you look at the bottom of this listing, you will find how to be
included in all of the information exchange between builders. Its not a real
active list as yet, but it seems to be growing.
Your engine project ( inverted V-12, direct drive) sounds exciting. If I
can be of help, let me know. If you can arrange a visit, you will be very
welcome. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gerber <44gn(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FEW information |
Jan... I don't know who you are but welcome. I'm Gary Gerber and building a FEW
P-51 I'm about two years away from flying. Lets hear about what you are doing.
We use this list to be in touch and get excited about other builders. Take care
Gary
LRE2(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Jan,
> It was good to hear from you this evening and get your current e-mail
> address. If you look at the bottom of this listing, you will find how to be
> included in all of the information exchange between builders. Its not a real
> active list as yet, but it seems to be growing.
> Your engine project ( inverted V-12, direct drive) sounds exciting. If I
> can be of help, let me know. If you can arrange a visit, you will be very
> welcome. LRE
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
I have W60 wheels which was supplied without the outer washers. Three nuts
but no washers. Who makes this wheel and where can I buy washers. Ken
Gottschall
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: wheel washers |
Ken,
Those are Matco wheels. If you are talking about the three bolts that hold
the halves together; the washers are regular AN washers, thick or thin depending
upon bolt grip length.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kenneth Melvin <melvinke(at)direcway.com> |
If they are the wheels supplied with the kit, they are by Matco. Matco
now has available an upgraded version, with scale cutouts in the outer
half.
Kenneth Melvin, N51KX.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
PolymerDesign(at)aol.com
Subject: FEWMustang-List: wheel washers
I have W60 wheels which was supplied without the outer washers. Three
nuts
but no washers. Who makes this wheel and where can I buy washers. Ken
Gottschall
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FEWMustang-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 02/10/04 |
For your current info. Matco will supply the outer halves at $50/pc. current
price. They really look good on the 51. Ken PS George is really easy to
work with of any builders have problems with brakes, wheels, etc. And Carolyn
returns phone calls unlike Mr. kern.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Landing Gear Strut |
I have a technical problem on my left strut where it plugs into the
trunion; and that is the socket is about .015" too big and I'm trying to figure
out
which gap tightner to use. JB Weld or red locktite or ? Fortunately the other
socket is fine. Ken Gottschall
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Strut |
Ken
Personally, I wouldn't use any liquid "gap reducer" in this area. I suggest
having the end of the Oleo tube (only the area which fits into the trunion)
hard chromed and ground back to the proper size. Hard chroming can build up a
significant, durable, layer which will last forever.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Strut |
Or... hard chrome the i.d. of the trunion socket and have it cut back to
size. The trade off is the work it takes to disassemble the Oleo compared to the
hassle it will be to set up the trunion for final machining. It is an odd
shaped thing and maybe hard to hold on the lathe or mill bed accurately.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Strut |
Ken,
Have you heat shrunk the steel reinforcing ring over the trunion socket
yet? When I did that, it tightened things up a bit. Probably not .015, but
some. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Strut |
Is it hard to get the strut apart? I have no idea how.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Strut |
Yes I have installed the reinforcing rings. Made them a little thicker and
wider in hopes of shrinking, but it didn't. But it did round up the socket
which was several thousands egg shaped, so I got rid of one problem at least.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Strut |
Ken,
Disassembling the strut isn't too bad. I can walk you through it.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Questions for Ed Hullinger |
Ed,
I thought I'd ask you to address some questions that I think would be of
general interest to the group.
1...You spoke about the possibilities of using a high volume oil pump. Where
can I get one of these, and can you give me a PN or specs/
2...you also mentioned a high pressure engine driven fuel pump that would be
compatible with the AirFlow Fuel injection system. Again where and what?
3...Regarding the coolant system. I know that Robert Oliver is using a
thermostat. If you are monitoring coolant temperatures, and have the ability to
adjust the radiator air flow, it seems that a thermostat is just one more thing
to get stuck and go wrong. Comments?
You asked for ideas about parts that we might be interested in having you
produce and vendor.
SS firewall pass thrus, both for wiring and especially for the
coolant hoses would be very useful. I'd buy them. We could talk about
design, etc.
Looking forward to your upcoming visit.
L.R.Eidemiller
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Questions for Ed Hullinger |
Ed,
I thought I'd ask you to address some questions that I think would be of
general interest to the group.
1...You spoke about the possibilities of using a high volume oil pump. Where
can I get one of these, and can you give me a PN or specs/
2...you also mentioned a high pressure engine driven fuel pump that would be
compatible with the AirFlow Fuel injection system. Again where and what?
3...Regarding the coolant system. I know that Robert Oliver is using a
thermostat. If you are monitoring coolant temperatures, and have the ability to
adjust the radiator air flow, it seems that a thermostat is just one more thing
to get stuck and go wrong. Comments?
You asked for ideas about parts that we might be interested in having you
produce and vendor.
SS firewall pass thrus, both for wiring and especially for the
coolant hoses would be very useful. I'd buy them. We could talk about
design, etc.
Looking forward to your upcoming visit.
L.R.Eidemiller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Questions for Ed Hullinger |
Larry,
I will respond in depth to all of your questions first thing tomorrow. I
didn't want you to think that I wasn't responding, but we are taking just a 5
minute break in the middle of a very long PSRU / engine test to change fuel drums.
This is a 10 hour, two stop, high power setting run that needs to be done at
night due to noise issues. Back to you soon.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Questions for Ed Hullinger |
Good on Ya Ed. No Hurry. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Questions for Ed Hullinger |
Larry,
I mentioned the high volume oil pump when you were considering the single
stage PSRU system. With that type of system, the engines oil is lubricating the
PSRU as well as the engine via it's pump mounted inside the oil pan. In this
case the volume that the standard pump produces is close to the ragged edge of
being enough. With two stage, or stand alone, PSRU oiling system this isn't
necessary, as the PSRU is taking care of its own oiling needs and the engine's
pump is adequate to handle it's normal duty. Having said that, if you have added
extra oiling options to your engine such as piston squirters or additional
valve train lubrication points, then maybe a high volume pump would be
appropriate. If you haven't done any of this additional work you won't need it.
But if
you decide to go this route, this is a very simple swap. The pump is just a
bit taller with wider gears, the shaft is a little heavier and there is a
variety of pickups that can be used. It all bolts in the same location without
any
modifications needed. They are available at most any auto parts supply house
that does any sort of high performance parts sales. A Melling HV55 is the most
common high volume unit out there. Around $50.
The engine driven fuel pump is from Kinsler Fuel Injection. I'll have to get
you the part #. This guy can be either cam driven or belt driven as it wants
to run at about 50% of crank speed. You'll need a pressure regulator and a
3-way valve to complete the package, but it's not a bad way to go. It allows you
to start up on the electric pump and then switch it off after the engine is
running. The 3-way valve will take care of directing the fuel from which ever
pressure source is active. A very simple setup that has been used in racing since
the 60's.
The thermostat a double edged sword or sorts. If it is working properly, the
engine temp is nothing to worry about. Takeoff, close the radiator exit door,
and the water temp will stay at the thermostat setting. But if it fails, and
they do, the temp can get away from you. I would definitely try to leave it out
of the engine but put a restrictor in its place. A flat plate with a 3/4"
hole would be a good place to start. Without restriction, the water moves through
the engine too quickly and never really has a chance to pull the heat off of
the metal. The size of the restrictor may need adjusting depending upon how
well the rest of your system is working. In flight the FEW radiator / scoop /
exit door package has proven to work pretty well. You may find that on very cool
days or at higher altitudes, the engine needs a thermostat to maintain a
reasonable minimum temperature. If this turns out to be the case, rather than
fitting a thermostat another thought would be to decrease the size of the radiator
exit by adding additional material to the door. All of this is a little bit
of trial and error as each of us has different engines, power levels, and
somewhat different plumbing which can make for dramatic differences in how well
the
system cools. I would suggest starting with the standard radiator
configuration with a restrictor in place and go from there.
I would love to hear your thoughts on additional FEW pieces. The pass
throughs are certainly needed and a good idea. I used -16 bulkhead fittings for
the
water lines, but that all gets real expensive by the time you've put a -16 hose
end fitting on each side of that. I would think that about a 3.000" long
machined tube with a flange for attaching it to the firewall would be a better
solution here. Then you could hose clamp a piece of tubing of your choice to
either side. I've got a good idea for the wiring pass throughs, I think!
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Questions for Ed Hullinger |
Thanks for the thoughts, Ed. I'll show you some sketches when you come up.
LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
Jan;
As per our discussion today, I have reviewed the math re: prop
efficiency. Check my figures. Whirl Wind recommends a prop redline of 2400 RPM.
for the 92" four bladed prop.
Most experts claim that a prop reaches maximum efficiency at
0.8-0.85%Mach.above that, efficiency is lost (read speed) and stress increases
exponentially.
For the 92" prop, my calculations are:
2300RPM = 0.83 MACH
2350RPM = 0.90 MACH
2400RPM = 0.92 MACH
Thus, it would seem that RPMs > 2350 would be counter productive,
resulting in less efficiency, decrease in speed, higher fuel consumption and
greater stress on the engine and prop.
I am no expert, but ther you are........LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
DNA: not not archive
| Subject: | [PLEASE READ] Virus Laden Spam Purports To Be From Matronics... |
Dear Listers,
First let me say that I normally don't condone the sharing of warnings
about Internet viruses on the Matronics Email Lists. I don't want to
start a storm of discussion regarding computer viruses on the Lists, so
please just note the information below and refrain from commenting to
the List. The circumstances I describe below are disturbing enough
that I felt an explanation is necessary. That being said...
There is a new email-bourne virus running rampant on the Internet that
is cleverly disguising itself as legitimate email warning of such
things as:
"your email account is disabled because of unauthorized access"
"Some of our clients complained about the spam (negative e-mail
content) outgoing from your e-mail account"
"Probably, you have been infected by a proxy-relay trojan server. In
order to keep your computer safe, follow the instructions."
"Our main mailing server will be temporary unavailable for next two
days, to continue receiving mail in these days you have to
configure our free auto-forwarding service."
All of these messages include an attachment that you are instructed to
click upon to "Get more information", "clean the virus from your
system", or "check your system for infections".
These enclosures all contain a virus that will infect your system and
propagate even more copies of the original message.
The disturbing part of these messages is that they appear to be coming
from very legitimate addresses and have very legitimate, convincing
dialog. For example, I have received a number of them today that
appear to be from "support(at)matronics.com", "management(at)matronics.com",
"administration(at)matronics.com", and "staff(at)matronics.com".
The text of the messages seems believable enough, and given the forged
source address, seem even more legitimate.
Please be assured that no one at Matronics.com will be sending you
these kinds of messages. If you receive one, it is a spam/virus that
has forged headers and was sent to you from someone other than
Matronics. Delete the message and the attachment promptly. Invest in
a copy of Norton Antivirus and keep the definitions up dated on a daily
basis.
Again, I want to stress that I *DO NOT* want a big discussion of
viruses on the Matronics Email Lists. Please do not reply to this
email with any comments. You may write to me directly at
dralle(at)matronics.com if you wish, but do not include the List.
Since many of these appear to come from matronics.com, I wanted to
assure everyone that Matronics wasn't the real source of these messages.
Let's be careful out there and keep those virus definitions up to date!
Today alone, the Matronics spam filter and virus blocking appliance
has filtered out 11,550 spam messages and 375 viruses! That's just in
an 18 hour period!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | incorrect information |
Jan,
The information I sent you re: the Whirl Wind Prop was in error.
The prop is 86" not 92". thus at the manufacturers recommended Redline of
2400RPM, the tip speed would be 0.82 Mach, well within the parameters you were
talking about.
I also have another phone number for GeeBee Canopies in Puyallup.
253-891-4614.
Regards,
LREidemiller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: incorrect information |
Guys,
GB has really let me down recently. I've been waiting for 18 months for a
pair of TF / D style canopies that he has yet to get right. I'm contracting with
a large So. California outfit that does nothing but aircraft glass to get a
mold and parts made. I wouldn't waste my time with Glen - nice. He is truly a
nice guy but the quality is gone. He free-blows his stuff and that makes for
absolutely no consistency. Just a warning.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: incorrect information |
Hey Larry!
Is anyone else looking at any of our postings here? This lack of
communication is frustrating.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Hoyle" <c.hoyle(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | FEWMustang List Postings |
Ed and Larry,
I read and save everything you men send out. Seldom do I write because I would
rather read and learn than write.
Cliff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FEWMustang List Postings |
Understood. Thanks for the reply Cliff.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: incorrect information |
Ed, I'm a plastic engineer and wish I had know sooner your problem. You are
absolutely right in not using free forming thermoformed acrylic. Only a male
or female mold will give proper shape. Any other plastic questions from the
51 forum, I'd be happy to help out. Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: incorrect information |
Ken G;
I should have guessed from your screen name, that you are an expert
resource for many of our problems. I am very happy, with my hand blown canopy,
but you guys should be aware that this was the third canopy. I ruined the
first one, trying to make it fit, the second was unacceptable. I guess I got
lucky on the third.
I am convinced that the teardrop shape with bulging sides, ALA the
Malcolm Hood design is the way to go. How to reproduce them reliably is the
problem.
Also installing them without damage. My final installation taught me
some changes in procedure that I think will save a lot of grief($$$$). If anyone
is interested, I will describe the procedure for you. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: incorrect information |
Ken,
I had no idea that you were such a resource. I guess I should have figured
that out by your e-mail address!
Kinda proves how important all of this communication stuff really is.
Anyway, the company that will be taking on the canopies is Aircraft
Windshield in Placentia, CA. I've used them in the past for several race car projects
and have always been happy with delivery and quality. We'll see .....
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gerber <44gn(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: incorrect information |
Larry ....
I'm interested in how to replace the canopy. As I'm changing mine. Thanks again.
Gary
LRE2(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Ken G;
> I should have guessed from your screen name, that you are an expert
> resource for many of our problems. I am very happy, with my hand blown canopy,
> but you guys should be aware that this was the third canopy. I ruined the
> first one, trying to make it fit, the second was unacceptable. I guess I got
> lucky on the third.
> I am convinced that the teardrop shape with bulging sides, ALA the
> Malcolm Hood design is the way to go. How to reproduce them reliably is the
> problem.
> Also installing them without damage. My final installation taught me
> some changes in procedure that I think will save a lot of grief($$$$). If anyone
> is interested, I will describe the procedure for you. LRE
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Mireley <mireley(at)msu.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: incorrect information |
HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Hey Larry!
>
> Is anyone else looking at any of our postings here? This lack of
> communication is frustrating.
>
> Ed
>
Ed;
I'm just watching as I'm looking to use the PSRU on an engine for my
Aerocomp project. I've not thought to ask about the Mustang construction
practices, which I know little about. One question comes to mind as
I getting ready to put in the hard points for the fuel line fittings
in my tanks. How are they done on the Mustang?
John Mireley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: incorrect information |
Sounds like you've got things under control now. I'd recommend clear RTV to
adhere the plex to the skirt. Its a good sealer but is also a strong adhesive
for Plexiglas. Also it can be cut out if God forbid the canopy is broken.
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tore S. Bristol" <tf51(at)c2i.net> |
| Subject: | Re: incorrect information |
Hi Larry!
Looking at your figures I agree. 2400rpm static should come out around M
.825 depending on temp. But as airspeed builds I would think M. no. should
as the airspeed vector is added. ( by sine to airspeed)? Does anybody know a
formula for this?
Regards
TS Bristol
---- Original Message --ds ---
From: <LRE2(at)aol.com>
Subject: FEWMustang-List: incorrect information
>
> Jan,
> The information I sent you re: the Whirl Wind Prop was in error.
> The prop is 86" not 92". thus at the manufacturers recommended Redline
of
> 2400RPM, the tip speed would be 0.82 Mach, well within the parameters you
were
> talking about.
> I also have another phone number for GeeBee Canopies in Puyallup.
> 253-891-4614.
> Regards,
> LREidemiller
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tore S. Bristol" <tf51(at)c2i.net> |
I have a 350 SB with tuned port fuel injection that I plan to use in my Mustang
project. Does anybody out there have any experience with fuel flow on such a
system? ( Constant pressure w/return ) I was hoping it would be possible to connect
the return line after the FF transducer, so the excess fuel is led back
to the pump.This would simplify the system, as it does away with a second transducer
and computer. I don't know if heat buildup in the fuel or other things
could be a problem.
Greetings from Norway
TS Bristol
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
Hi John,
The mustang tanks walls are honeycomb composite. I've found that the best
solution is to attaching any hardware is to bore through the general location
with a hole saw well oversized the actual fitting you are looking to install. For
instance, my fuel pickup fittings are -6 bulkhead fittings / dowty seals with
short tubes. So I hole sawed a 2.500" hole clean through the wall and then
cut out a piece of phenolic plate the same thickness as the honeycomb with an
o.d. of 2.500". Then put a -6 clearance hole in the phenolic insert in the
center. After this, I put the phenolic "patch" in the fuel cell wall cutout and
covered each side with 4 plys of glass out to about a 5.000" circle. After cure,
redrill the -6 pass throughs and sand the sealing area smooth, and you're
ready to put the fitting in place.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stan and Lindy <stanlindy(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel fittings |
>
>Hi John,
>
>The mustang tanks walls are honeycomb composite. I've found that the best
>solution is to attaching any hardware is to bore through the general location
>with a hole saw well oversized the actual fitting you are looking to
>install. For
>instance, my fuel pickup fittings are -6 bulkhead fittings / dowty seals with
>short tubes. So I hole sawed a 2.500" hole clean through the wall and then
>cut out a piece of phenolic plate the same thickness as the honeycomb with an
>o.d. of 2.500". Then put a -6 clearance hole in the phenolic insert in the
>center. After this, I put the phenolic "patch" in the fuel cell wall
>cutout and
>covered each side with 4 plys of glass out to about a 5.000" circle. After
>cure,
>redrill the -6 pass throughs and sand the sealing area smooth, and you're
>ready to put the fitting in place.
>
>Ed
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kenneth Melvin <melvinke(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel fittings |
I used a similar method, using a hole saw, but stopped short of the
inner skin. A disk of phenolic drilled to accept the -6 AN fitting was
then epoxied into the hole, with a need to patch only the outer skin.
Ken Melvin, N51KX
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stan
and Lindy
Subject: unsuscribe Re: FEWMustang-List: fuel fittings
>
>Hi John,
>
>The mustang tanks walls are honeycomb composite. I've found that the
best
>solution is to attaching any hardware is to bore through the general
location
>with a hole saw well oversized the actual fitting you are looking to
>install. For
>instance, my fuel pickup fittings are -6 bulkhead fittings / dowty
seals with
>short tubes. So I hole sawed a 2.500" hole clean through the wall and
then
>cut out a piece of phenolic plate the same thickness as the honeycomb
with an
>o.d. of 2.500". Then put a -6 clearance hole in the phenolic insert in
the
>center. After this, I put the phenolic "patch" in the fuel cell wall
>cutout and
>covered each side with 4 plys of glass out to about a 5.000" circle.
After
>cure,
>redrill the -6 pass throughs and sand the sealing area smooth, and
you're
>ready to put the fitting in place.
>
>Ed
>
>
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Turner" <dennis.turner(at)rmci.net> |
Tore,
Hi, long time no see.
I have my system set up just that way you are describing. I installed a
small (approximately one quart) header tank on the inside of the firewall
which is down stream from the FF transducer. The excess fuel from the fuel
pressure regulator on the fuel rails flows back to this header tank. You do
have to add a line from the top of the header back to the fuel tanks to vent
air that will accumulate in the header tank. I have a valve in the cockpit
that I open during my pre-takeoff checks and the return line has a clear
section where I can see it in the cockpit. I just open the valve and close
it when the bubbles stop flowing through the line. I really don't have to
open it on every flight as the accumulation of air in the header tank
appears to be pretty small.
I haven't had any problems with this setup, but I can't guarantee that there
are not potential problems that I haven't experienced.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tore S.
Bristol
Subject: FEWMustang-List: Fueflow
I have a 350 SB with tuned port fuel injection that I plan to use in my
Mustang project. Does anybody out there have any experience with fuel flow
on such a system? ( Constant pressure w/return ) I was hoping it would be
possible to connect the return line after the FF transducer, so the excess
fuel is led back to the pump.This would simplify the system, as it does away
with a second transducer and computer. I don't know if heat buildup in the
fuel or other things could be a problem.
Greetings from Norway
TS Bristol
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
Larry, you really hit a winner here on this website with your help on this
great filler and primer. I've gone thru the first gallon with two more on the
way. Easy to sand and no toxic fumes. And Aerothane on the top. Great
system. Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: UV Smooth Prime |
Ken G.
I'm glad its working out for you. After trying some other systems, I
found it to be far superior.
The only thing I don't like is the stark white color. It makes it
hard to see imperfections. After talking with the folks at Polyfiber, I have
adopted the technique of adding 8 oz of black tempora water soluble poster paint
(available at any art store) to each gal of Smooth prime. This gives it a
sort of dull aluminum color which makes it much easier to see when you are
"there." LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gerber <44gn(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FEWMustang-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 03/11/04 |
Larry...
Thanks for the info on the Smooth Prime. I was having a problem getting all of
the hard to
see places smoothed out. I got a bottle of black and tryed it out. Works great.
Thanks
again for being there for us. Gary
FEWMustang-List Digest Server wrote:
> *
>
> ==================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> ==================================================
>
> Today's complete FEWMustang-List Digest can be also be found in either
> of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
> formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked
> Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII
> version of the FEWMustang-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic
> text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/fewmustang-list/Digest.FEWMustang-List.2004-03-11.html
>
> Text Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/fewmustang-list/Digest.FEWMustang-List.2004-03-11.txt
>
> ================================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ================================================
>
>
> FEWMustang-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Thu 03/11/04: 2
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 04:40 PM - UV Smooth Prime (PolymerDesign(at)aol.com)
> 2. 04:55 PM - Re: UV Smooth Prime (LRE2(at)aol.com)
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________
>
> From: PolymerDesign(at)aol.com
> Subject: FEWMustang-List: UV Smooth Prime
>
>
> Larry, you really hit a winner here on this website with your help on this
> great filler and primer. I've gone thru the first gallon with two more on the
>
> way. Easy to sand and no toxic fumes. And Aerothane on the top. Great
> system. Ken
>
> ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________
>
> From: LRE2(at)aol.com
> Subject: Re: FEWMustang-List: UV Smooth Prime
>
>
> Ken G.
> I'm glad its working out for you. After trying some other systems, I
> found it to be far superior.
> The only thing I don't like is the stark white color. It makes it
> hard to see imperfections. After talking with the folks at Polyfiber, I have
> adopted the technique of adding 8 oz of black tempora water soluble poster paint
>
> (available at any art store) to each gal of Smooth prime. This gives it a
> sort of dull aluminum color which makes it much easier to see when you are
> "there." LRE
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cory Emberson" <bootless(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Request: Information for Kitplanes Magazine (Interiors/Exteriors) |
Hello!
I am writing an article for Kitplanes magazine that will feature builders who have
distinctive interiors and/or exteriors.
My deadline is rather short, so if you could email me as soon as possible, hopefully
by Tuesday, that will give me enough time to put it together.
Here are some of the criteria I'm looking for:
Interiors that are (one or any combination):
1. creative
2. inexpensive
3. very comfortable
4. lightweight
5. generally cool and different
6. distinctive in some way.
Exteriors that are:
1.. stunningly attractive
2.. original design
3.. historically accurate
4.. distinctive in some way
Other things to keep in mind:
1. How you came to design your interior/exterior (How you got your idea)
2. The reasons why you did it as you did
3. What benefits you had in mind
4. Any unexpected benefits (and/or pitfalls) there were
5. What you learned
6. How many hours you've flown with it (if completed)
7. How much of the work did you do yourself?
8. Did you have any professional assistance? How much?
9. The equipment and tools you used
10. How much time it took to build and install
11. The cost of building it.
12. Would you do it again the same way? Why?
Here are the photo requirements for Kitplanes: Photos must be 300 dpi at a size
large enough to use in the magazine, which is usually at least 3 x 3 inches.
If an image is 300 dpi at 1 x 1 inch, it won't be big enough to do any good. Hard
copy photos are good, too.
Thanks so much - I really appreciate your help!
best regards,
Cory Emberson
Hayward, CA [KHWD]
510.599.4409
cory(at)lightspeededit.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cory Emberson" <bootless(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Santa Maria CA Fly-in (April 30-May 2) |
Hello everyone!
With Matt Dralle's blessing (thank you, Matt!), I'm pleased to post this announcement
for a terrific aviation fly-in weekend. SMXgig (in Santa Maria, CA) has
become the year's largest face-to-face get-together of electronically networked
aviators. We hope you'll plan to attend because we expect this year's gig to
be the best ever.
People come from all over the country (and sometimes overseas) to attend, and most of the sessions qualify for FAA Wings cards. The dates are 4/30-5/2/04 (Friday-Sunday) - it's a lot of fun, and a great chance for pilots from all over to mingle and share aviation stories, ideas, etc. The announcement below contains most of the crucial information, and you can get the rest from the website (www.smxgig.org). If you have any questions at all, just let me know, and thanks!
~~Cory Emberson
KHWD
>>> NOTICE TO AIRMEN! <<<
Announcing the Sixteenth Annual SMXgig
to be held on April 30 - May 2, 2004
at the Radisson on the Santa Maria (CA) Airport (aka SMX)
www.smxgig.org
SMXgig will be April 30 - May 2, 2004, at the Santa Maria Radisson. This year,
our featured speaker after Friday night's dinner will be Rod Machado!
"MACH 2 WITH MACHADO" is the byline Rod Machado has earned for his rapid fire delivery
at his lively safety seminars and keynote speeches. His programs are information-packed,
energetic, and humorous. He has spoken in all fifty of the
United States and in Europe sharing his fresh approach to aviation education.
If you can make it, please do. It's going to be pretty special. More information and the announcement/ registration info is available at www.smxgig.org You may also contact me by email at: cory(at)smxgig.org.
All technical sessions will be held in the Enterprise Ballroom at the SMX Radisson.
Each session will last about an hour. We schedule four tech sessions on Saturday
morning, and four on Sunday morning. Most of the speakers are set (I'm
still firming up a couple of slots - I'm working on a session about Experimentals):
MIKE BUSCH - The Art and Science of Troubleshooting
Your A frequently, that person is you. That's particularly true of problems that
occur only in-flight and/or are intermittent. This session offers methodology
for troubleshooting aimed at aircraft owners who aren't A&Ps.
ED WILLIAMS - GPS - How It Works, and How to Work It
Ed is a nuclear physicist working at Lawrence Livermore Labs. Ed does a
remarkable job of making physics phun!
BRENT BLUE, M.D. - Pilot Medicals: How to Avoid Problems with the FAA
Brent is an AME Advocate, who specializes in helping the tough cases renew their
medicals. He's a former member of EAA's medical advisory committee.
DOUG RITTER - Equipping Yourself To Survive - Personal Survival Gear for Pilots
Doug is a survival evangelist, personally driven to help pilots live through whatever comes next. www.equipped.org
PAUL MILLNER - The Future of Avgas
Paul works with ChevronTexaco, and is right in the middle of the industry developments
regarding our fuel of choice.
MARY DUFFY & UWE LEMKE - Flying in Europe
Mary and Uwe are a Scot and a German who live in the San Francisco Bay Area, but
return "home" often.
As always, each qualifying session will get you a WINGS Safety Session card.
Our Saturday evening event should be a delicious one! At 5:45 p.m., the BFUB (Big Fat Ugly Bus) will arrive at the Santa Maria Radisson to bring us to the Far Western Tavern for dinner in beautiful Guadalupe (www.farwesterntavern.com).
DOLLARS AND CENTS
Just as in previous years, there will be one flat all-encompassing "gig" fee that
covers all events that involve significant out-of-pocket costs for the organizers.
The fee is $160 per person, and will cover:
- Friday afternoon welcome party
- Friday evening dinner banquet
- Saturday and Sunday tech sessions
- Saturday afternoon lunch
- Saturday evening dinner at the Far Western Tavern in Guadalupe
- Meeting rooms and coffee service at the Santa Maria Radisson
- Transportation to (and from) the Far Western Tavern
Lodging at the SMX Radisson will cost $89.00/night for either a single or double
room, which is far below the regular hotel room rate. Be sure you check in as
a SMXgig attendee and get the special rate. We have our definitive preference
listed with the hotel for rampside rooms - early registration can only help,
but of course, the rampside rooms are subject to availability depending on how
many existing guests are in those rooms.
You do not need to register with the hotel - just give me your preferences, and
I will take care of the reservations.
Important: This year, our final rooming lists are due to the hotel on April 11,
2004 (the even of Sun 'n Fun), which will guarantee space and the group rate.
The hotel will accept additional room reservations after that, on a space- and
rate-available basis. They will try their best to accommodate us after that
date, but the hotel is already sold out for the weekend.
The website (www.smxgig.org) has detailed information about the schedule, meals, hotel accommodations, and online registration. If you'd like your own announcement/registration emailed to you, or have any other questions, just let me know. (cory(at)smxgig.org or bootless(at)earthlink.net ).
Thanks, and see you there!
best, Cory Emberson
________________________________________________________________________________
Hey Guys, I'd like to share with you that Ed Hullinger came up to Portland
this week end to install Ken Melvin's and my PSRU. It was a great time. He
has a wealth of knowledge to share. The unit is EXCELLENT! and I believe
will prove to be far better than anything else out there.
Mating it with an LS1, for a firewall forward package will cut the
costs, increase reliability and greatly simplify installation. Larry
Eidemiller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kenneth Melvin <melvinke(at)direcway.com> |
I can endorse what Larry has said about the Hullinger PSRU, and the man
behind it! Ed Hullinger is a tremendous asset to the FEW Project, with
the knowhow, drive and enthusiasm that promises to take the FEW Mustang
into an exciting new future. Keep an eye on the new website, and look
for several first flights in the next year.
Ken Melvin
N51KX
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
LRE2(at)aol.com
Subject: FEWMustang-List: FEW PSRU
Hey Guys, I'd like to share with you that Ed Hullinger came up to
Portland
this week end to install Ken Melvin's and my PSRU. It was a great
time. He
has a wealth of knowledge to share. The unit is EXCELLENT! and I
believe
will prove to be far better than anything else out there.
Mating it with an LS1, for a firewall forward package will cut
the
costs, increase reliability and greatly simplify installation.
Larry
Eidemiller
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gerber <44gn(at)kconline.com> |
What excitement that was for you. It makes all the waiting time worth while.
We
sure need to keep Ed out front and showing us the way. When you get some time
take some Pic's and share the excitement with the rest of us. Now the push is
one to get into the air. I don't know if you will have time but sure hope you
will be able to get to one of the RFA Fly-in's. The will show the talkers the
the movers and shakers are on a roll. It's like being on the train and it's
leaving the station and it doesn't back up. Take Care. Gary
LRE2(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Hey Guys, I'd like to share with you that Ed Hullinger came up to Portland
> this week end to install Ken Melvin's and my PSRU. It was a great time. He
> has a wealth of knowledge to share. The unit is EXCELLENT! and I believe
> will prove to be far better than anything else out there.
> Mating it with an LS1, for a firewall forward package will cut the
> costs, increase reliability and greatly simplify installation. Larry
> Eidemiller
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Ed,
I am using the Chev "Sandwich" heat exchanger oil cooler, that mounts
on the oil filter boss on the block. I think we discussed it briefly and I
recall that you indicated that you were or were going to use the same system.
Dennis, Do I recall that you are using this system also?
My question is: the return from the heat exchanger, obviously goes into
the heater port on suction side of the water pump. Where do we get the cool
pressurized water source to input to the unit?
One could make a spacer with a side port to go between the water pump
and the block, or drill and tap a port into the water pump leg. Is there a
better way?
How did you guys do it? LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Heat Exchanger |
Larry,
First of all, thanks for the kind words regarding my trip up last weekend. I
don't think anyone realizes how passionate I am about getting FEW back up and
rolling as well as working with all of the current builders to get their
projects completed and flying. I just have to ask for everyone's patience as I
dig
through all of the obligations that I've inherited.
To your question. The water source is the intake manifold. It may seem to be
hot water at this point and be counterproductive to cooling the oil, but the
temps. will all level out when running. There are normally a few ports in the
area of the thermostat housing (the cross over between the cylinder heads) on
most small block manifolds. Usually they are tapped 1/2 npt. This is your
source. The return from the exchanger heads back to the top of the water pump;
normally at the 12 o'clock position with a port pointing straight up; again
usually a 1/2 npt thread is provided. I've got pictures if you like.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heat Exchanger |
Thanks Ed, That helps me a lot. Some pics would be good too. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Heat Exchanger |
Photos on the way to your e-mail address shortly Larry.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Turner" <dennis.turner(at)rmci.net> |
Larry,
I originally had a Moroso heat exchanger that has the water running through
it lengthwise and the oil flowing across laterally. That didn't appear to
be enough, however, I have since discovered that the real problem was that
our engines produce so much heat in the oil at high RPM that even when I put
a 10"x21" oil radiator in front of the water radiator it still didn't cool
the oil as fast as the engine heated it up. Bottom line is that you have to
lower the RPM shortly after takeoff and then the temp has a chance to
stabilize, al biet at a fairly high temp of 260 degrees or so. The good
news is that the performance seemed better at the lower RPM anyway. My top
speed went from 215 mph (true) to 236 when I pulled the RPM back to 4600
RPM. So, bottom line in my case was I got more horsepower at high RPM so I
use that for takeoff, but for all other operations it is better (and a bit
quieter) at lower RPMs. The oil temps run wild at the high RPMs anyway. I
took the heat exchanger out and I'm just using the oil radiator now. I'm
not sure if just the heat exchanger would work because I never operated at
the lower RPMs for a prolonged time when the heat exchanger was all I had.
Could be that it would work, and if not you could always go back and put the
radiator in (if you haven't already). By the way, I have never had a
problem with water temps.
Hope this helps, give me a call if you want more info.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
LRE2(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: FEWMustang-List: Heat Exchanger
Thanks Ed, That helps me a lot. Some pics would be good too. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Heat Exchanger |
Another thought Larry.
If you wanted to reduce the length of one of the runs to the heat exchanger,
you can get pick-up a pressurized water source at the block drain located
about six inches forward of the oil filter pad. This is a smaller port but more
than adequate for what you are looking for.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heat Exchanger |
Dennis, Thanks for that good information. Its a big help. It sounds
like you seeing best prop efficiency at 2100-2200 rmp (4600-4800rmp on the
engine) I am also reading that the heat exchanger may not be enough to maintain
adequate oil temps. Good to hear from you. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gerber <44gn(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heat Exchanger |
Hey guys when you email each other about all this good stuff and send pic's I
would sure like it if you would ( reply all ) that way we will see what we
will be up to later on. Thanks for all that you do. Gary
HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Photos on the way to your e-mail address shortly Larry.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | melvinke(at)direcway.com |
| Subject: | Re: Heat Exchanger |
Ed, I have an aluminum water pump with spare bosses on both the
input and output side of the pump for AN fitttings from which one
could run a line from the pump output to the sandwich heat
exchanger under the oil filter.
Ken Melvin, N51KX
________________________________________________________________________________
Gary,
Most of the pro painters I have talked to say that paint will nicely
fill surfaces sanded to #320, so there is little point in going any finer.
Wet sanding adds little, and need not be done until the final sanding.
However, I usually keep a wet rag handy, just to wipe down the surface that I'm
working on to remove the dust and help me see better.
You can get long rolls of adhesive backed sandpaper at your local
autobody and paint store. I find that I try to use a piece of sandpaper far to
long. When it begins to stop cutting, throw it away and get a fresh piece!
As to imbedding nuts in various surfaces, ie faring attachment, I
have developed a technique which is cheap and very durable. I think I'll write
up a little" How to" article. Jim's technique just didn't work for me. The
Book binders nuts are aluminum and strip out easily. They also tend to spin
in the holes. Ed is machining some steel "Bobbins" which look to me as though
they should work. However, you're going to need a lot of them and they will
be spendy to make.
I used steel "T-Nuts" from the hardware store, you know the ones
with the three barbs on them for pennies a piece and bonded them in using a spot
facer to remove the outer skin. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harold Anderson" <andy_lindaanderson(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: FEW Mustang-List: Re: sanding |
Guys,
Hi this is Andy Anderson, I've got my fuselage about 90% complete, I
bought Ed's bobbins to use in the fairing installation but I've thought
about simply using 1/8" aluminum pull rivets to install the fairings,
for the number of times you have to remove the fairing it seems to make
more sense, if you do have to remove them simply drill them out and
replace them. The direction of airflow over the fuselage presses the
fairings on to the fuselage, so there is little or no stress in the
attachments, if there was Jims book bindings would fail long before pull
rivets would.
Any thoughts on this?
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
LRE2(at)aol.com
Subject: FEWMustang-List: Re: sanding
Gary,
Most of the pro painters I have talked to say that paint will
nicely
fill surfaces sanded to #320, so there is little point in going any
finer.
Wet sanding adds little, and need not be done until the final sanding.
However, I usually keep a wet rag handy, just to wipe down the surface
that I'm
working on to remove the dust and help me see better.
You can get long rolls of adhesive backed sandpaper at your
local
autobody and paint store. I find that I try to use a piece of sandpaper
far to
long. When it begins to stop cutting, throw it away and get a fresh
piece!
As to imbedding nuts in various surfaces, ie faring
attachment, I
have developed a technique which is cheap and very durable. I think
I'll write
up a little" How to" article. Jim's technique just didn't work for me.
The
Book binders nuts are aluminum and strip out easily. They also tend to
spin
in the holes. Ed is machining some steel "Bobbins" which look to me as
though
they should work. However, you're going to need a lot of them and they
will
be spendy to make.
I used steel "T-Nuts" from the hardware store, you know the
ones
with the three barbs on them for pennies a piece and bonded them in
using a spot
facer to remove the outer skin. LRE
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: FEW Mustang-List: Re: sanding |
Andy,
Don't use rivets. You are going to take the fairings off many times over the
life of the plane and the rivet holes will get bigger and bigger every time
you drill them out. You're gonna end up with either huge rivets to fill the
holes eventually or repairing the used up skin. Put the bobbins in. Period. They
are stainless just like the 6-32 screws that will screw into them. Take the
time now and you'll never have an issue.
The fairings will have forces trying to peel them off in flight and aluminum
pop rivets won't be anywhere near strong enough.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE: FEW Mustang-List: Re: sanding |
Andy, I have had my farings on and off a dozen times so far. At very least
they will need to be removed every annual to check the horizontal stab and
wing mount bolts. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | melvinke(at)direcway.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: FEW Mustang-List: Re: sanding |
My experience with aluminum pull rivets for composite fairings has
not been good. Some will inevitably spin when drilled, particulary
as they heat up during the process, and leave a hole you can cover
again with a Tinnerman washer and new rivet, but not very
satisfying.
Ken Melvin, N51KX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harold Anderson" <andy_lindaanderson(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: FEW Mustang-List: RE: FEW Mustang-List: Re: sanding |
Thanks for the reply everyone, I'll go with the bobbins. Ed what did you
use as a syringe to put in the adhesive?
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: FEWMustang-List: RE: FEW Mustang-List: Re: sanding
Andy,
Don't use rivets. You are going to take the fairings off many times over
the
life of the plane and the rivet holes will get bigger and bigger every
time
you drill them out. You're gonna end up with either huge rivets to fill
the
holes eventually or repairing the used up skin. Put the bobbins in.
Period. They
are stainless just like the 6-32 screws that will screw into them. Take
the
time now and you'll never have an issue.
The fairings will have forces trying to peel them off in flight and
aluminum
pop rivets won't be anywhere near strong enough.
Ed
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: FEW Mustang-List: RE: FEW Mustang-List: Re: sanding |
Wicks handles a nice cheap plastic syringe that you can cut the tip to any
angle and size. Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE: FEW Mustang-List: RE: FEW Mustang-List: Re: sanding |
I use disposable icing bags, from Aircraft Spruce P/N 01-1471
$18.20 for 100 bags. At 18 cents a bag, WAY cheaper than syringes.
And you will use lots of them. They are also very useful during wing closing.
You can make the aperture what ever you need for the current application.
LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | another FEW flies! |
Guys,
This morning Bob Bonde flew his TF for the first time out of Sandy Valley,
NV. He had no real problems, just a sticking flap motor. When he called me this
morning, you could just hear the excitement that was in his voice! I'll get a
full report and maybe a picture or two as soon as my schedule allows.
Ed Hullinger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: another FEW flies! |
Come to think of it, his voice may have been reflecting the celebratory
Champagne that had been opened in his hangar after that first successful flight!
________________________________________________________________________________
Guys,
Ed Hullinger recently came up to install Ken Melvin's and my PRSRs. I
am Very impressed with his expertise and dedication to making this project
work. I am aware that patience wears thin. But Ed is doing his damnedest to
make sure that things are right.
I waited 4 + years for my unit, but thetas a WHOLE lot better than
flying behind a BlackHawk, or holding the pieces of a Stewart or Thunder
Mustang.
I believe that the firewall forward package that Ed is putting
together is going to be very good, and will save you guys many dollars and much
time, and be more reliable in the long run.
LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gerber <44gn(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The FEW PSRU |
Sounds good to me. I'm working hard and as you know it just takes time to get
it
put together. I know Ed is doing the best he can. Jim has some funds that need
to
be sent to Ed for the PSRU's. Can't do this for nothing. Doing a lot of sanding
I
know you were there once. Ed just keep hanging in there we all will make a go
of
the projects. We get some of the planes to some of the fly-in's so people see
what
we have they will want one for sure. Hey take care. Gary
LRE2(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Guys,
> Ed Hullinger recently came up to install Ken Melvin's and my PRSRs. I
> am Very impressed with his expertise and dedication to making this project
> work. I am aware that patience wears thin. But Ed is doing his damnedest to
> make sure that things are right.
> I waited 4 + years for my unit, but thetas a WHOLE lot better than
> flying behind a BlackHawk, or holding the pieces of a Stewart or Thunder
> Mustang.
> I believe that the firewall forward package that Ed is putting
> together is going to be very good, and will save you guys many dollars and much
> time, and be more reliable in the long run.
> LRE
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FEWMustang-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 04/19/04 |
Ed is owed a very large amount of money by Jim including $4500 of my money in
picking up the FEW line. I think everything considered, Ed is making a
significant effort to satisfy all of us builders that have been left hanging.
Since the gearboxes are so changed from the first unit, seems to me that
installing those units close to Ed's operation on the west coast makes sense.
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
Ed,
B&C is shipping the alternator directly to you to fit the 14 tooth
Gilmore pulley. They will include the rear spacer which impinges on the bearing.
They suggested that the pulley could be milled to do the same and the spacer
omitted, if that works out.
I have talked with the folks at Peterson Fluid Systems about the
details of the Gilmore belt drive system for the accessories. They were very
helpful. As I explained what we are doing, the guy ( Mike Fucks) went thru each
part and the necessary match ups. We have changed some of the parts, to make
the system more compatible. When I get the package, I'll let you know what
works and what doesn't so that other builders can have a "This will work" package
to refer to.
I have drilled and Tapped a 3/8 NPT orifice in the starboard leg of
the short nosed water pump for a 5/8 barbed hose connector which should give me
a good source of pressurized cool water for the oil heat exchanger. It is
easy to do, and worked out well. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russ Clifford" <rjcliff(at)COX.NET> |
| Subject: | Re: FEWMustang-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 04/09/04 |
----- Original Message -----
From: "FEWMustang-List Digest Server" <fewmustang-list-digest(at)matronics.com>
Subject: FEWMustang-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 04/09/04
> *
>
> ==================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> ==================================================
>
> Today's complete FEWMustang-List Digest can be also be found in either
> of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
> formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked
> Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII
> version of the FEWMustang-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic
> text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/fewmustang-list/Digest.FEWMustang-List.2004-04-09.html
>
> Text Version:
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/fewmustang-list/Digest.FEWMustang-List.2004-04-09.txt
>
>
> ================================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ================================================
>
>
> FEWMustang-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Fri 04/09/04: 0
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harold Anderson" <andy_lindaanderson(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | RE: FEWMustang-List Digest: |
Does anyone know a repair for a crack in the lexan canopy? I found a
small crack in the lower left corner of my canopy it's about 2 inches
long coming out of the canopy bow and it just makes it to the edge of
the skirt, I've stop drilled it and I'm wondering if it can be repaired.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Hoyle" <c.hoyle(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: FEWMustang-List Digest: |
Andy,
Nothing will completely repair the crack but you can make it better with
"super glue" like what they use to repair auto windshields. The glue is a
cyanoacryalate. Be very careful you don't let it drip or run onto any other
part of the canopy because it will leave a permanent smudge.
Cliff
----- Original Message -----
From: "Harold Anderson" <andy_lindaanderson(at)msn.com>
Subject: FEWMustang-List: RE: FEWMustang-List Digest:
>
>
> Does anyone know a repair for a crack in the lexan canopy? I found a
> small crack in the lower left corner of my canopy it's about 2 inches
> long coming out of the canopy bow and it just makes it to the edge of
> the skirt, I've stop drilled it and I'm wondering if it can be repaired.
>
> Andy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harold Anderson" <andy_lindaanderson(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | RE: FEWMustang-List Digest: |
Cliff
Should I "V" out the crack first or just apply it to the surface?
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Cliff
Hoyle
Subject: Re: FEWMustang-List: RE: FEWMustang-List Digest:
Andy,
Nothing will completely repair the crack but you can make it better with
"super glue" like what they use to repair auto windshields. The glue is
a
cyanoacryalate. Be very careful you don't let it drip or run onto any
other
part of the canopy because it will leave a permanent smudge.
Cliff
----- Original Message -----
From: "Harold Anderson" <andy_lindaanderson(at)msn.com>
Subject: FEWMustang-List: RE: FEWMustang-List Digest:
>
>
> Does anyone know a repair for a crack in the lexan canopy? I found a
> small crack in the lower left corner of my canopy it's about 2 inches
> long coming out of the canopy bow and it just makes it to the edge of
> the skirt, I've stop drilled it and I'm wondering if it can be
repaired.
>
> Andy
>
>
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Hoyle" <c.hoyle(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: FEWMustang-List Digest: |
Andy, you don't want to do any grinding just apply the liquid glue directly
to the crack very carefully. The glue will quickly seep throughout the
crack.
Cliff
----- Original Message -----
From: "Harold Anderson" <andy_lindaanderson(at)msn.com>
Subject: RE: FEWMustang-List: RE: FEWMustang-List Digest:
>
> Cliff
> Should I "V" out the crack first or just apply it to the surface?
>
> Andy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Cliff
> Hoyle
> To: fewmustang-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: FEWMustang-List: RE: FEWMustang-List Digest:
>
>
>
> Andy,
>
> Nothing will completely repair the crack but you can make it better with
> "super glue" like what they use to repair auto windshields. The glue is
> a
> cyanoacryalate. Be very careful you don't let it drip or run onto any
> other
> part of the canopy because it will leave a permanent smudge.
>
> Cliff
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Harold Anderson" <andy_lindaanderson(at)msn.com>
> To:
> Subject: FEWMustang-List: RE: FEWMustang-List Digest:
>
>
>
> >
> >
> > Does anyone know a repair for a crack in the lexan canopy? I found a
> > small crack in the lower left corner of my canopy it's about 2 inches
> > long coming out of the canopy bow and it just makes it to the edge of
> > the skirt, I've stop drilled it and I'm wondering if it can be
> repaired.
> >
> > Andy
> >
> >
>
>
> ==
> ==
> ==
> ==
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE: FEWMustang-List Digest: |
Andy,
At your local plastics supply store (in our area it is TAP PLASTICS) you can
get a mixture of Methylene Chloride and Trichloroethylene called various
things, Acrylic weld, Plexeweld. etc. it is a solvent that is thinner than water
and welds the Lexan. Talk to the guys at the shop and let them know what you
are doing. This stuff definitely fuses lexan. Ken G. you are the expert in
this area. Chime in. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: FEWMustang-List Digest: |
Sorry guys I've been out of town for 6 days and just saw the questions. The
advise on the acrylic glue is correct. No prep work other than having area
clean. When applying the solvent less is better and be concerned with
orienting the crack so gravity flows any excess solvent toward the edge where crack
started. Solvent should be applied with hypodermic needle like insulin folk
use. This type of repair sort of fuses the material but is not considered a weld
like a crack is welded in steel. Joint strength is probably less than 25% 0f
the original strength. Stop drilling is good but a special 60 degree bit
MUST be used whenever drilling into Plex or Lexan. Wicks has these bits.
Normal bits produce microscopic cracks or as we engineers say 'stress risers".
To
prevent recurrance it is important to find out what caused crack to start in
first place. Most likely unless plex was scratched or had some type of notch
on the edge the crack was caused by uneven mating surface. Maybe a bump or
some sharp edge on the alum. or the mating part. Always use a bed of clear
silicone under the plex and under any mating alum. part. You can also put clear
silicone in the stop drill hole. Let canopy sit unmoved for at least 24 before
handling. That's all the advise that comes to mind. I do have an extra
canopy if needed. Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harold Anderson" <andy_lindaanderson(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | RE: FEWMustang-List Digest: |
Ken,
Thanks for the advice; you are right the crack was caused by a bump. The
crack is in a non critical area of the canopy so this repair should
work. As to the 60 degree bit I have drilled all the holes in the canopy
using a standard bit, is this going to cause a problem further down the
line?
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
PolymerDesign(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: FEWMustang-List: RE: FEWMustang-List Digest:
Sorry guys I've been out of town for 6 days and just saw the questions.
The
advise on the acrylic glue is correct. No prep work other than having
area
clean. When applying the solvent less is better and be concerned with
orienting the crack so gravity flows any excess solvent toward the edge
where crack
started. Solvent should be applied with hypodermic needle like insulin
folk
use. This type of repair sort of fuses the material but is not
considered a weld
like a crack is welded in steel. Joint strength is probably less than
25% 0f
the original strength. Stop drilling is good but a special 60 degree
bit
MUST be used whenever drilling into Plex or Lexan. Wicks has these
bits.
Normal bits produce microscopic cracks or as we engineers say 'stress
risers". To
prevent recurrance it is important to find out what caused crack to
start in
first place. Most likely unless plex was scratched or had some type of
notch
on the edge the crack was caused by uneven mating surface. Maybe a bump
or
some sharp edge on the alum. or the mating part. Always use a bed of
clear
silicone under the plex and under any mating alum. part. You can also
put clear
silicone in the stop drill hole. Let canopy sit unmoved for at least 24
before
handling. That's all the advise that comes to mind. I do have an extra
canopy if needed. Ken
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: FEWMustang-List Digest: |
Andy,
What holes did you put in the canopy. - There shouldn't be any!
By the way, I've got a motor mount that was originally built in Ardmore that
I'm tuning up and will send your way - no cost.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harold Anderson" <andy_lindaanderson(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | RE: FEWMustang-List Digest: |
Ed,
In the manual it clearly shows the 10/32 screws in the canopy bow
retaining aluminum angles going through the canopy plexi, is this wrong?
Thanks for the motor mount.
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: FEWMustang-List: RE: FEWMustang-List Digest:
Andy,
What holes did you put in the canopy. - There shouldn't be any!
By the way, I've got a motor mount that was originally built in Ardmore
that
I'm tuning up and will send your way - no cost.
Ed
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: FEWMustang-List Digest: |
Andy,
No, you don't want any holes in the canopy. You'll get cracks for sure
originating at the hole locations. The manual shows attaching the aluminum framework
to the bows only, 90 degrees around the bow from the canopy sides. The canopy
is glued in place. Same with the front windshield pieces.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | canopy questions |
Andy,
If your manual does depict the canopy being bolted in I would like to know
more about it so that we can make any needed changes to any new manuals that are
printed. The master manual that I have here doesn't show that being the case,
but we all know that the manual has had numerous errors and rewrites and
quite possibly the version you have may this in it.
Let me know.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harold Anderson" <andy_lindaanderson(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | canopy questions |
Ed,
My drawing shows the canopy through bolted at the top and sides with
10-32 screws. I cross referenced this with some pictures I have on
actual P51s and several of them show screws along the top and sides of
both the canopy and windshield bows, so I assumed that the drawings were
correct. I am going to over size the holes to relieve some of the
pressure from the screws, I will use the 60 degree bit that ken talked
about to open the hole. If I'm doing something wrong let me know.
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com
Subject: FEWMustang-List: canopy questions
Andy,
If your manual does depict the canopy being bolted in I would like to
know
more about it so that we can make any needed changes to any new manuals
that are
printed. The master manual that I have here doesn't show that being the
case,
but we all know that the manual has had numerous errors and rewrites and
quite possibly the version you have may this in it.
Let me know.
Ed
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE: FEWMustang-List Digest: |
Ed, Agree. In fact, the front windshield pieces are so securely held by the
surrounds. (No holes, just rounded notches) that I question whether they need
to be glued.
Is the new Web site up yet? LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: FEWMustang-List Digest: |
Larry,
The new site is done just waiting to get the domain name freed up from
Ardmore.
I'm concerned that Andy's canopy is going to crack no matter what precautions
he takes now that holes are in place.
I received your alternator yesterday (nice!) and will get a pulley on it
early next week and send it, the governor and bracket, and firewall water
pass-through up to you at that time.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harold Anderson" <andy_lindaanderson(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | RE: FEWMustang-List Digest: |
Ed, Larry
The front windshield Plexi was not drilled, the canopy and the side
glass was. I could grind or cut out the holes and make them like
windshields rounded notches if you think that would help. I have not
found any cracks in the area of the holes as of yet, the one crack that
I do have is not related to a drill hole.
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: FEWMustang-List: RE: FEWMustang-List Digest:
Larry,
The new site is done just waiting to get the domain name freed up from
Ardmore.
I'm concerned that Andy's canopy is going to crack no matter what
precautions
he takes now that holes are in place.
I received your alternator yesterday (nice!) and will get a pulley on it
early next week and send it, the governor and bracket, and firewall
water
pass-through up to you at that time.
Ed
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE: FEWMustang-List Digest: |
Andy, for the side panels, converting the holes to rounded notches might
help, they are quite a bit thicker. Using a fine sanding drum on a Dremel tool
makes them nice and smooth, and also heats the edges slightly during the process,
rather than chipping. As for the canopy, I don't know. I'll defer to Ken
Gottchall on this one. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harold Anderson" <andy_lindaanderson(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | RE: FEWMustang-List Digest: |
Thanks,
Any help at this point would be welcome
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
LRE2(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: FEWMustang-List: RE: FEWMustang-List Digest:
Andy, for the side panels, converting the holes to rounded notches might
help, they are quite a bit thicker. Using a fine sanding drum on a
Dremel tool
makes them nice and smooth, and also heats the edges slightly during the
process,
rather than chipping. As for the canopy, I don't know. I'll defer to
Ken
Gottchall on this one. LRE
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: FEWMustang-List Digest: |
Andy,
I gotta go with Larry on this one -- Ken is the expert here. Depending how
close to the edge you drilled the holes, you might be able to trim a strip off
and eliminate them all together. It doesn't take much to hold the canopy in due
to the fact that there is so much area to bond.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harold Anderson" <andy_lindaanderson(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | RE: FEWMustang-List Digest: |
I thought of that I do have the area, so I'll look at that tomorrow
Thanks
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: FEWMustang-List: RE: FEWMustang-List Digest:
Andy,
I gotta go with Larry on this one -- Ken is the expert here. Depending
how
close to the edge you drilled the holes, you might be able to trim a
strip off
and eliminate them all together. It doesn't take much to hold the canopy
in due
to the fact that there is so much area to bond.
Ed
==
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==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: FEWMustang-List Digest: |
Hi. I'm glad I've help. As a general rule you do not want to drill into
clear plastic unless you absolutley must. You will not see any cracks from the
drilling. They are microscopic and will show up many months ahead when
vibration is introduced. color plastics are not generally affected with this craze
problem because a rubber based additive is added- but clear is different. If
you already have holes in canopy, which you should not have,I would recommend
that the holes be redrilled much oversize with the 60 degree bit only,not
champered or notched, so that the attaching screws DO NOT TOUCH THE plastic either
plex or Lexan. Don't notch or otherwise affect the existing hole other than
enlarging. Lexan for your windscreen is JUST as prone as plex to crack
propogation even though it can stop a 45 bullet. Don't ask me to explain that
one
but it is fact. Your loyal plastic engineer. Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: FEWMustang-List Digest: |
Trimming away the holes would be good as long as you use a special fine tooth
saw and cut slowly NO notches at all on cut edge even when viewed with
jewelers eye piece. Eliminating holes is best option but if you trim stop whenever
plastic sawdust becomes other than powder sort of crumbly. Wait 5 min for
blade and plex to cool. Never push saw thru material, sort of nibble if you get
my drift. Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harold Anderson" <andy_lindaanderson(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | RE: FEWMustang-List Digest: |
Thanks Ken,
You said that colored plastics don't have this problem, what about any
uv coatings? This canopy has a noticeable gray-brown uv coloring to it.
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
PolymerDesign(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: FEWMustang-List: RE: FEWMustang-List Digest:
Trimming away the holes would be good as long as you use a special fine
tooth
saw and cut slowly NO notches at all on cut edge even when viewed with
jewelers eye piece. Eliminating holes is best option but if you trim
stop whenever
plastic sawdust becomes other than powder sort of crumbly. Wait 5 min
for
blade and plex to cool. Never push saw thru material, sort of nibble if
you get
my drift. Ken
==
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: FEWMustang-List Digest: |
Yes any tinted plex would have the same problems most likely. We some times
use the words- notch sensitivity- meaning that any defect other than a
perfectly smooth cut edge will cause crack propogation. Opaque materials have
small
amounts of butadiene as impact modifiers that pretty much eliminate cracking.
I should also mention that any cut edge should be sanded with a 180 grit
sandpaper on a block. This will sand away any tiny notches caused by sawing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harold Anderson" <andy_lindaanderson(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | RE: FEWMustang-List Digest: |
Thanks I really appreciate the help, I've taken out all the drill holes
in the canopy and sanded the edges smooth with a dremel. I'll glue the
canopy in and use the drilled holes in the surrounds as an additional
clamp area with the 10-32 screws. I've ordered the solvent and will
repair the crack next week.
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
PolymerDesign(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: FEWMustang-List: RE: FEWMustang-List Digest:
Yes any tinted plex would have the same problems most likely. We some
times
use the words- notch sensitivity- meaning that any defect other than a
perfectly smooth cut edge will cause crack propogation. Opaque
materials have small
amounts of butadiene as impact modifiers that pretty much eliminate
cracking.
I should also mention that any cut edge should be sanded with a 180 grit
sandpaper on a block. This will sand away any tiny notches caused by
sawing.
==
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tore S. Bristol" <tf51(at)c2i.net> |
Does anybody know where ED Hullinger is?
He does not answer my phone calls or E-mails. I would like to know when I can expect
delivery of my PSRU.
I was told Aug 7th 2003 ; working on your PSRU, Pre delivery test next week.
Again Aug 25th ; UNIT COMPLETE!, waiting for test stand time. Are you planning
to send the remaining money due on the PSRU soon?
Which I did in full on Sept 18th, after waiting 3 weeks for his bank account no.
Since then I have been promised the PSRU several times, but received nothing, and
now he seems to have vanished.
Tore S Bristol
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gerber <44gn(at)kconline.com> |
Tore....
I have just received an email from Ed. So he must be there some place. Just keep
trying we need your plane in the air and see you
flying. It will be worth the wait. Still working on my wing will be ready soon
for the gear. Take care. Gary
"Tore S. Bristol" wrote:
>
> Does anybody know where ED Hullinger is?
> He does not answer my phone calls or E-mails. I would like to know when I can
expect delivery of my PSRU.
> I was told Aug 7th 2003 ; working on your PSRU, Pre delivery test next week.
> Again Aug 25th ; UNIT COMPLETE!, waiting for test stand time. Are you planning
to send the remaining money due on the PSRU soon?
> Which I did in full on Sept 18th, after waiting 3 weeks for his bank account
no.
> Since then I have been promised the PSRU several times, but received nothing,
and now he seems to have vanished.
> Tore S Bristol
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tore S. Bristol" <tf51(at)c2i.net> |
Hey Few 51builders,
I agree with you. After seeing the PSRU last Oct. I think it is a good unit,
but my problem is that I paid for it last Sept. when Ed said it was ready,
but have not received it as promised.And now he will not take my calls or
answer my mails. Where is he and what is he doing?
Regards
Tore S Bristol
----- Original Message -----
From: <LRE2(at)aol.com>
Subject: FEWMustang-List: FEW PSRU
>
> Hey Guys, I'd like to share with you that Ed Hullinger came up to
Portland
> this week end to install Ken Melvin's and my PSRU. It was a great time.
He
> has a wealth of knowledge to share. The unit is EXCELLENT! and I believe
> will prove to be far better than anything else out there.
> Mating it with an LS1, for a firewall forward package will cut the
> costs, increase reliability and greatly simplify installation.
Larry
> Eidemiller
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harold Anderson" <andy_lindaanderson(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | RE: FEW Mustang-List: RE: FEW Mustang-List Digest: |
Good Morning Guys,
I have a question regarding the adhesive used in the attachment of the
canopy to the skirt. My manual says to use resin and micro beads, is
this correct or should it be structural adhesive and micro? Also could
this be substituted with the adhesive/sealant used in auto windshields?
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: FEW Mustang-List: RE: FEW Mustang-List Digest: |
Andy, I would definitely recommend using RTV clear caulking. It adheres well
to the plex and gives a good "bed' for the plex to rest in. Also if you ever
have to replace the canopy you can slit the caulk with anXacto blade without
ruining the skirt. RTV is used to glue together aquariums without any frame
so its strong. Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harold Anderson" <andy_lindaanderson(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | RE: FEW Mustang-List: RE: FEW Mustang-List: RE: FEW Mustang-List |
Digest:
Thanks Ken
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
PolymerDesign(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: FEWMustang-List: RE: FEW Mustang-List: RE: FEW Mustang-List
Digest:
Andy, I would definitely recommend using RTV clear caulking. It adheres
well
to the plex and gives a good "bed' for the plex to rest in. Also if you
ever
have to replace the canopy you can slit the caulk with anXacto blade
without
ruining the skirt. RTV is used to glue together aquariums without any
frame
so its strong. Ken
==
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Hoyle" <c.hoyle(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | 108 RV adjusting and cleaning instructions.pdf |
Mustang builders - FYI
Here are the instructions for changing the pressure settings of your hydraulic
pump and for cleaning it.
Cliff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 108 RV adjusting and cleaning instructions.pdf |
Guys,
Talk to Robert Oliver. (in fact, I'll ask him to respond to this forum) He
found that he had to increase his pump pressure to, I believe, 1500 to 1600 lbs.
to get the gear to retract with air loads on it. This is something that Bob
Bonde has been fighting as his number of flights increased to the point he was
putting the gear up. Bob started down at 1100 and has been going up. The
pressure required is certainly different on the wing jacks than it will be in
flight.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Hoyle" <c.hoyle(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | 108 RV Adjusting and Cleaning Instructions |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 108 RV adjusting and cleaning instructions.pdf |
Oh boy, this is something we need to know about. Who do we go about doing
that?Lre
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 108 RV adjusting and cleaning instructions.pdf |
Larry,
Cliff's previous note on this subject was missing the attachment on my end.
If he sees this, possibly he'll try again; if not I have a hard copy of the
user manual for the pump here that I can forward.
It is a real good idea to have a pressure gauge in the cockpit for monitoring
Hydraulic pressure. This would have probably kept Al Hyde from having to
belly land the prototype a few summers ago - although he did a masterful job of
it!
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 108 RV adjusting and cleaning instructions.pdf |
Ed, I do have a hydraulic pressure gauge on the panel. When running the
pump against resistance, I read 1200 psi. However I have no idea how to adjust
it. If you have a users manual, I'd love to have a look. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Hoyle" <c.hoyle(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Cleaning and Adjusting Hydraulic Pump |
Everyone,
This website will not allow attachments nor will it even copy the page I keep trying
to post with the instructions. If you are interested in this information
contact me directly and I'll send you the information.
Cliff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Turner" <dennis.turner(at)rmci.net> |
| Subject: | 108 RV adjusting and cleaning instructions.pdf |
I had the same problem along with slow gear retraction. It isn't very
difficult to change the pressure relief valve in the pump. Take the
reservoir off and you will see the pressure relief valve as a screw in post.
Screw it out and it increases the pressure. I don't think you can go to
far, but I can't guarantee that.
Personally I'm looking into finding a pump with a higher flow rate as it
just takes too long for the gear to retract. I have to pull power to keep
from getting too fast before the gear locks up. If I get going too fast the
air loads fluttering around in the gear well keep the mains from locking up.
Pulling power on takeoff leg, even though you do have good flying airspeed,
is not a comfortable thing to be doing!
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
LRE2(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: FEWMustang-List: 108 RV adjusting and cleaning
instructions.pdf
Oh boy, this is something we need to know about. Who do we go about doing
that?Lre
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Turner" <dennis.turner(at)rmci.net> |
| Subject: | 108 RV adjusting and cleaning instructions.pdf |
I forgot to mention, Oil dyne has a good web site with documentation for the
pumps.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
LRE2(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: FEWMustang-List: 108 RV adjusting and cleaning
instructions.pdf
Ed, I do have a hydraulic pressure gauge on the panel. When running the
pump against resistance, I read 1200 psi. However I have no idea how to
adjust
it. If you have a users manual, I'd love to have a look. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cleaning and Adjusting Hydraulic Pump |
Cliff, Yes, Please, sent the info directly to me at lre2(at)aol.com Thanks,
LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Oliver" <rocslo(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 108 RV adjusting and cleaning instructions.pdf |
I adjusted my hydraulic pump to about 1500 # to insure the gear came up in
flight. Also, the higher pressure gives you some cushion in regards to the
pressure necessary to operate the hydraulic sequence valves which I believe
is in the area of 1100#.. After 170 hrs, I have not had any problems, and do
not find it necessary to drop my speed on gear retraction on takeoff. I
have a hydraulic pressure gauge on my panel which is really helpful.
Robert Oliver
----- Original Message -----
From: <HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: FEWMustang-List: 108 RV adjusting and cleaning instructions.pdf
>
> Guys,
>
> Talk to Robert Oliver. (in fact, I'll ask him to respond to this forum) He
> found that he had to increase his pump pressure to, I believe, 1500 to
1600 lbs.
> to get the gear to retract with air loads on it. This is something that
Bob
> Bonde has been fighting as his number of flights increased to the point he
was
> putting the gear up. Bob started down at 1100 and has been going up. The
> pressure required is certainly different on the wing jacks than it will be
in
> flight.
>
> Ed
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy&Linda Anderson" <andy_lindaanderson(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: circuit breakers |
Does anyone know of a good source to find the recommended amperage rating
for circuit breakers for various aircraft systems?
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Russell Johnson <entec1(at)pld.com> |
| Subject: | You`ve got 1 VoiceMessage! |
Dear Customer!
You`ve got 1 VoiceMessage from voicemessage.com website!
You can listen your Virtual VoiceMessage at the following link:
http://virt.voicemessage.com/index.listen.php2=35affv
or by clicking the attached link.
Send VoiceMessage! Try our new virtual VoiceMessage Empire!
Best regards: SNAF.Team (R).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Insurance for your project |
Guys,
Larry E. and myself were talking yesterday and the subject of insurance
available for your FEWs came up. Recently there have been a number of Lancair
accidents, and I have been told that the insurance industry has been tough on that
group before and now getting even tougher. Just wondering what the "flying"
members of the FEW builders group are doing for insurance and what the rest of
you are planning in this area.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kenneth Melvin <melvinke(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | Insurance for your project |
Avemco cancelled my project insurance, saying they did not plan to cover
the finished product. EAA insurance responded that they were not
covering FEW or any other auto-powered planes.
Ken Melvin, N51KX.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com
Subject: FEWMustang-List: Insurance for your project
Guys,
Larry E. and myself were talking yesterday and the subject of insurance
available for your FEWs came up. Recently there have been a number of
Lancair
accidents, and I have been told that the insurance industry has been
tough on that
group before and now getting even tougher. Just wondering what the
"flying"
members of the FEW builders group are doing for insurance and what the
rest of
you are planning in this area.
Ed
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance for your project |
Ken,
Any indication for either group on what it would take for them to "warm up"
to guys like us flying auto-powered kits?
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Turner" <dennis.turner(at)rmci.net> |
| Subject: | Insurance for your project |
I had several insurance agents tell me that there was no way I could get
insurance. Basically, the insurance market is going through a "tight" phase
where they are very selective on what they will insure. I was told the only
think I could do was to wait a few years until the insurance industry swings
to a more open market. Such is life!
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: FEWMustang-List: Insurance for your project
Ken,
Any indication for either group on what it would take for them to "warm up"
to guys like us flying auto-powered kits?
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tore S. Bristol" <tf51(at)c2i.net> |
Hi everybody.
What happened to the FEW web site?
It seems to be offthe "air"
Regards
Tore S Bristol
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
With Ed shipping me my new socket to replace Kern's piece of . I'm ready
to complete gear retraction system. Any advise would be appreciated. I have
Huey Long's old wing with the standard setup to look at, but manual is pretty
lean. Pix's welcomed. My plane headed for CPS for wing mate. My patient
wife never complained about all the primer dust from Larry's wonderful
suggestion of Smooth Prime. Engine coming Sept. Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tore S. Bristol" <tf51(at)c2i.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: FEW Mustang-List: RE: FEW Mustang-List Digest: |
Ken,
I have finished my undercarriage some time ago, only difference; I have an
electronic sequensing and hydraulic operated downlock. I have quite a few
pictures if it will help.Let me know if I can be of any assistance. As soon
as possible as I am leaving for the states on saturday. You can also contact
me in Florida on Phone 386 758 2028, and get my E mail adress when I get
there.
I probably made some of the mistakes you like to avoid !
Regards
Tore S Bristol
----- Original Message -----
From: <PolymerDesign(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: FEWMustang-List: RE: FEW Mustang-List: RE: FEW Mustang-List
Digest:
>
> Andy, I would definitely recommend using RTV clear caulking. It adheres
well
> to the plex and gives a good "bed' for the plex to rest in. Also if you
ever
> have to replace the canopy you can slit the caulk with anXacto blade
without
> ruining the skirt. RTV is used to glue together aquariums without any
frame
> so its strong. Ken
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Ken, Are you going to use the conventional set up, or go with one of the
Dennis Turner/Bothe modified systems?
If you are going with the conventional set up, I can be of some help.
To begin with, you will need to make an access hole in the upper
skin, centered over the aft end of the trunion and the rod end, for later
adjustment of the rod end bearing and for lubrication of the trunion. I made mine
4"
sq, which is a little tight. Kem M. made his a 6" circle, which is better.
Secondly, the finger on the lock block to prevent the trunion from
being blocked.(see article in Mustang Express) you might make it just a bit
longer. 3/4-7/8". 5/8 worked fine on mine, but was just a bit short on KenMs
unit.
There are lots of other important detailswe can discuss as you come
to them. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
I am going to use theStandard setup. While Bothe's system looked simple, I
don't have a good knowledge about elctronics for later repair and mods. COuldd
you send me a pix of the access hole. I have article onlock block and will
definitely do. Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
Ken, Bothe's system was neither simple nor reliable. I'll get you some pics
of the service access hole, I want to send you pics of KenM's, because its
better than mine. It will take a couple of days, but I'll get them to you.
Another VERY IMPORTANT detail is the release of the inner door latch,
which initiates the whole mechanism. Most have had trouble adjusting the
bowden cables so that both sides released at once. If one released early, it
prevented the release of the other side. yet the nature of Bowden cables is that
they move .
I solved this problem by interposing a short, stiff spring that allowed
the lever to continue travel to the unreleased side, after the first side
released. This required a simple return spring to re cock the latch.
This GREATLY increases the reliability of the system. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Hoyle" <c.hoyle(at)comcast.net> |
Larry,
Would you also include me in the information on the landing gear that you are sending
Ken?
Thanks, Cliff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
Oh boy, I need pixs of all this. Myplane goes to CPS tomorrow am and I will
commence installing whole system in a big hanger full of Merlins, King Airs,
and A/P's who want to help in the successful completion of this Baby! Sorry
one last ? On my custom build engine do I want steel heads rather than alum.
so that I can carry a rear seat 170# passenger without control problems..
I'm already using a bowtie steel block. Presently all components are rated at
800hp and I'm looking for 450hp at 5500rpm. Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
Ken G
You are right, this whole thing gets to be intimidating. But, one
step at a time, it comes together.( I think).
I am using a "BowTie" block with a stroker nodular, forged crank and
oversized journals.
the heads are Edelbrock Victor Jr. alum racing heads. The Cam, I can't
specify, but it is what we use to call a Torquer.
The engine on the Dyno, with tuned exhaust turns 455 Brake HP at 4200 RMP
(~2100 on the prop) and 495 FP torque = 990 FPTorque at the prop at that RMP.
I'm told by the gurus that I'll loose ~ 10 % when I go to the straight
stack exhaust. I think that that is more than adequate. I expect to take
off at 2/3rds power.
ED, CHIP IN HERE!
I'll get some pics to you in the next few days. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
Ken,
In my opinion, go with a good set of aluminum heads. They have several
advantages over iron heads; weight, cooling efficiency, ease of porting, and you'll
have far more choices in head castings and valve train pieces. The weight of
the PSRU will negate any need for heavy engine parts. Have a close look at some
of the other completed aircraft weight and balance numbers before you decide
on just where you will put your wing (I've got several sets here that I can
give you). Moving the wing fore and aft slightly from the original set-up
numbers (provided by Jim Kern) will make a dramatic difference in your ability
to
put your bigger friends in the back seat. (Larry - have you done a weight and
balance as of yet?)
Don't get too carried away with hp numbers and sacrifice reliability just to
have a big number to talk about (Huey Long comes to mind here). Remember the
most successful FEWs flying out there are using crate engines producing no more
that 300 hp at take off and likely around 250 - 260 hp in cruise. One thing
that is really cool about using automotive engines in these applications is
that you can always find more power by changing things as you need it. Start off
with real reliable pieces and a moderate power level and then later if you
really feel you need 400 - 500 hp, it can be found. There is no end to high
performance Chevrolet parts available. If you look at the parts Larry has chosen
as
a staring point, you'll be in good shape. If I were at the point of looking
at specific engine parts to put together an engine from scratch - I would
certainly be opting for the Gen III engines over the earlier stuff. There is a
lot
of developed technology in the new engine that you will never find in all the
best after-market Gen II pieces. But I think you are already well down that
path so ...
I have found that the exhaust system as was designed by the guys in Oklahoma
is a real power thief - in the neighborhood of 60 hp at 5000 rpm. We have
built a cleaner, higher flow version in stainless that gets about 70% of that
back. The other issue with the old system is longevity. Being mild steel it seems
to only live about 100 hours before it need major work or replacement.
Unfortunately the stainless version is expensive and time consuming to build but
there are quite a few guys lined up for them. I've got 3 sets for the LS1 and LS6
underway right now and will be doing a batch of "standard - siamesed port"
systems soon.
Hope some of this is of help.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harold Anderson" <andy_lindaanderson(at)msn.com> |
Ed,
How are you doing on the engine cradle you said you had and any other
parts?
Any help you can give would be appreciated.
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: FEWMustang-List: Advise
Ken,
In my opinion, go with a good set of aluminum heads. They have several
advantages over iron heads; weight, cooling efficiency, ease of porting,
and you'll
have far more choices in head castings and valve train pieces. The
weight of
the PSRU will negate any need for heavy engine parts. Have a close look
at some
of the other completed aircraft weight and balance numbers before you
decide
on just where you will put your wing (I've got several sets here that I
can
give you). Moving the wing fore and aft slightly from the original
set-up
numbers (provided by Jim Kern) will make a dramatic difference in your
ability to
put your bigger friends in the back seat. (Larry - have you done a
weight and
balance as of yet?)
Don't get too carried away with hp numbers and sacrifice reliability
just to
have a big number to talk about (Huey Long comes to mind here). Remember
the
most successful FEWs flying out there are using crate engines producing
no more
that 300 hp at take off and likely around 250 - 260 hp in cruise. One
thing
that is really cool about using automotive engines in these applications
is
that you can always find more power by changing things as you need it.
Start off
with real reliable pieces and a moderate power level and then later if
you
really feel you need 400 - 500 hp, it can be found. There is no end to
high
performance Chevrolet parts available. If you look at the parts Larry
has chosen as
a staring point, you'll be in good shape. If I were at the point of
looking
at specific engine parts to put together an engine from scratch - I
would
certainly be opting for the Gen III engines over the earlier stuff.
There is a lot
of developed technology in the new engine that you will never find in
all the
best after-market Gen II pieces. But I think you are already well down
that
path so ...
I have found that the exhaust system as was designed by the guys in
Oklahoma
is a real power thief - in the neighborhood of 60 hp at 5000 rpm. We
have
built a cleaner, higher flow version in stainless that gets about 70% of
that
back. The other issue with the old system is longevity. Being mild steel
it seems
to only live about 100 hours before it need major work or replacement.
Unfortunately the stainless version is expensive and time consuming to
build but
there are quite a few guys lined up for them. I've got 3 sets for the
LS1 and LS6
underway right now and will be doing a batch of "standard - siamesed
port"
systems soon.
Hope some of this is of help.
Ed
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
Definitely put me in the line on the exhaust. I'll go with alum heads and
will get you mfgr and model I'll be using. Plse send me the info you've got on
wing positions. I'm only a few weeks away from wing mate. Move to airport
went without a hitch except for all the gawking drivers- one of whom ran off the
interstate looking rather than driving. Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
Could I get some pixs on the innear gear door actuator modifications. Thanks
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bristolsabre(at)aol.com |
ED HULLINGER,
Since you do not reply to my E- mails I can only assume you are not receiving
them. As you do not answer the phone either, I have no other way of
contacting you.
I cannot belive you are ignoring me, a paying customer?
All I want to know is; when can I receive my PSRU?
My project has come to a grinding halt while I wait for it.
According to yourself my unit was ready for testing mid Aug 2003, and
promised in March 2004.
When that did not happen, you told me in Apr. this year I would be first in
line.
Then you told me on June 17th that you were catching up and would send me the
PSRU.
I am in FL now and more than ready to take delivery asap.
What is happening?
Regards
Tore S Bristol
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
Hey Guys. Just checking in since not many emails are hitting site. Other
than flying the Baron a bunch, I've been hard at work on my plane . Trying to
get all those doors lined up when retracted, just mechanically, is
challenging .. But progress is happening. I also wanted to back up what Larry
and
Dennis and others have said awhile back about Ed. Ed recently delivered to me
a
new trunion socket, strut, mod engine mount and sub assembly. The work is
perfect. My parts from OK were so bad they had to be trashed. I sure can't
complain about the prices because its right. Thanks Ed for supporting us many
builders how would never finish and be screwed on such a fine plane. Ken
Gottschall
________________________________________________________________________________
Ken G
Just a word on the doors.
When you turn the wing into flight position, they may not snug in as
tightly as you think. I believe that it is Very important to build up the fwd
lip of the wing skin so that it extends, ~ 3/32-1/8 below the doors, to prevent
the airstream from entering into the wheel well, which could tear a door off
as I think Dennis can confirm. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FEWMustang-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 08/08/04 |
Great hint. I had not even thought about this possibility before now. Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tore S. Bristol" <tf51(at)c2i.net> |
Ed.
Great news !
But are you making the 6 or 8 bolt flange? You promised the 8 bolt earlier, but
as you never answer my E- mails I have no idea as to what I am getting. Had to
cancel a very good offer for a MT Prop ( 3700 $ off) because of this. Also had
to cancel buing Dave Bothes for same reason.
So hopefully I get the PSRU 13 months after you said it was ready, and 12 months
after I paid in full (+ my 2000$)
Let me know when it is ready for shipping.
Regards
Tore
--- Original Message -----
From: HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com
To: Bristolsabre(at)aol.com
Cc: Tore S. Bristol
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2004 3:25 PM
Subject: PSRU
Tore,
I now have all the pieces I need to do the update on your PSRU. I'll be out of
my office on other business until the 7th. Upon my return your unit is absolute
first on my list of items to get done. It will ship by the end of August.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tore S. Bristol" <tf51(at)c2i.net> |
ED.
Great news !
But are you you making the 6 or 8 bolt flange ? You promised me the 8 bolt a long
time ago, but as you never answer my E- mails, I have no idea what I am getting
! Had to cancel a very good offer for a MT Prop ( 3700 $ discount) because
of this. Also had to cancel buying Dave Bothes prop for same reason.
So hopefully I will get my PSRU 13 months after you said it was ready, and 12 months
after I paid in full. ( plus my 200$)
Let me know when it is ready for shipping.
Regards
Tore
----- Original Message -----
From: HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com
Subject: PSRU
Tore,
I now have all the pieces I need to do the update on your PSRU. I'll be out of
my office on other business until the 7th. Upon my return your unit is absolute
first on my list of items to get done. It will ship by the end of August.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tore S. Bristol" <tf51(at)c2i.net> |
----- Original Message -----
From: Tore S. Bristol
Subject: Fw: PSRU
ED.
Great news !
But are you you making the 6 or 8 bolt flange ? You promised me the 8 bolt a long
time ago, but as you never answer my E- mails, I have no idea what I am getting
! Had to cancel a very good offer for a MT Prop ( 3700 $ discount) because
of this. Also had to cancel buying Dave Bothes prop for same reason.
So hopefully I will get my PSRU 13 months after you said it was ready, and 12 months
after I paid in full. ( plus my 200$)
Let me know when it is ready for shipping.
Regards
Tore
----- Original Message -----
From: HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com
Subject: PSRU
Tore,
I now have all the pieces I need to do the update on your PSRU. I'll be out of
my office on other business until the 7th. Upon my return your unit is absolute
first on my list of items to get done. It will ship by the end of August.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
Tore,
The prop flange choice is still yours. I've prepared both styles.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tore S. Bristol" <tf51(at)c2i.net> |
ED.
As you seem to get the mail on the FEW list, I will keep using it.
I would of course like to have the 8 bolt flange, as that was my request from way
back.
Looks like I will finally get lucky and get my PSRU, but then it is my birthday
today!
Let me know when it is ready to ship, ( within 2 weeks according to your mail of
July 28th)
The adress is ;
Tore S Bristol
408 SW Airpark Glen
Lake City
32025 FL
I will not be there so I will have to arrange with one of my neighbours to take
delivery, and
look after it until I get back.
Tore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
The plane moves along. The engine will be built by Oct.1. I'm having the
crank and rods X-ray which is slowing assembly 2 weeks. My question is to
builders with their engine complete and ready to fire. What other accessories
components do I need from Ed so I can finish my installation. Of course the
exhaust and prop governor but what else. Is the oil pan and pump special? I've
got the gearbox paid for, but I need to get my new wish list to Ed asap. Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
Ken G.
I'm not sure what sort of things you are thinking of for your "wish
list" and If Ed is building your engine, he knows what you need.
Regarding oil systems. Are you going wet or dry? If wet sumping, as
I think most of us are, considerations include;
PAN: I have gone thru consideration of shoebox vs marine vs
std and have come to the conclusion that the configuration is not as important
as good baffeling and splashtrays. A high volume racing oil pump with a well
placed pick up should do the job. Several of us are using the Chev
Permormance oil cooling heat exchanger (I can get you the PN) It costs ~$350.00,
requires some innovative plumbing, and may or may not be necessary.
Water Pump: I'm currently on my third. You definitely need
a short nose. The Stewart aluminum Hi Flow available from SpeedWay Racing is
finally working for me, including the availability of a flat boss to drill
and tap for intake source for the heat exchanger.
GOVERNOR: you will need a Woodward C-210680. I got mine from
Southwest Aero, inc in Tukwila Wash. (206-575-8732) They are not easy to
find. You will require a belt drive adapter and bracket. Ed makes one that is
so
pretty it will make your eyes water, and fits to a T.
Let me know if I can help. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
I'm definitely going wet sump. I'd love if you could get the part numbers on
the heat exchanger, water pump and pan. I'd like to order exactly what
you're using. I'm having my engine built by a well respected racing engine shop
right here in Belleville, Illinois. I want to use what Ed has available but i
want to get on order anything he's not ready to supply. His governor looks
real good and got a great write up in one of the mags. Ofcourse any pixs would
be great also. Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Land Shorter <landshorter2(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | New product announcement: affordable VG's |
homebuilt-list(at)matronics.com, jabiru-list(at)matronics.com,
kitfox-list(at)matronics.com, kolb-list(at)matronics.com, kr-list(at)matronics.com,
l29-list(at)matronics.com, l39-list(at)matronics.com,
lancair-list(at)matronics.com.1.00.SORTED_RECIPS.Recipient.list.is.sorted.by.address
Hey folks,
I double checked and Matt Dralle's earlier post says it's OK to post about new
aviation products as long as the message doesn't come off as having a "flavor"
of "traditional spam". Don't worry I'm not going to try to sell you anything
that supposedly makes any of your body parts larger (or smaller) and this product
is directly aviation related :) I'm just an airplane builder, owner, pilot,
and aviation nut who wants to tell you where you can find more information about
a great new product.
I've been selling kits of vortex generators (VG's) for only $95 and my customers are telling me they really like the performance gains they're seeing. VG's are great for reducing stall speeds and allow you to land slower, shorter, and safer. I invite you to check out my site at www.landshorter.com and see what you think. My VG's can be quickly installed for testing using removable double-stick tape and come with a 100% money-back guarantee so why not try them out on your plane? You'll be really glad you did :)
Thanks and let's keep 'em flying!
Joa Harrison
The VG Guy
www.landshorter.com
1-877-272-1414 (toll free)
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tore S. Bristol" <tf51(at)c2i.net> |
ED.
According to this mail my PSRU should have shipped ( again)12 days ago? So I guess
I will have it in the very near future?
I am goingto Florida shortly, so I am ready. ( as I have been for more than 1 year!!!)
How about some info from you?
Tore S Bristol.
----- Original Message -----
From: HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com
To: Bristolsabre(at)aol.com
Cc: Tore S. Bristol
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2004 3:25 PM
Subject: PSRU
Tore,
I now have all the pieces I need to do the update on your PSRU. I'll be out of
my office on other business until the 7th. Upon my return your unit is absolute
first on my list of items to get done. It will ship by the end of August.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tore S. Bristol" <tf51(at)c2i.net> |
Ed Hullinger,
We just got back from a Mercedes Classic car rally in Sweden. On the way back we
visited with Mr. Bostr=F8m at his summer home north of Gothenburg. He wanted
me to check why you do not reply to his mails.Maybe you did not get them?
I understand you promised him a quote on 2 FEW Mustang kits, and this was more
than 2 months ago?
He showed me all the mails you sent, and I must say I found that interesting reading!
Frankly I must say I am surprised too, at least I thought you would keep in touch
until you make a sale?
I showed him this site, so if you want you can reply on the FEWmustang site.
Tore S Bristol
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tore S. Bristol" <tf51(at)c2i.net> |
Ed Hullinger.
I have been getting 1 E- mail from you about every 5-6 weeks, and every time you
say my PSRU will be ready shortly.
First one came Aug 7th 2003, where you said it would be ready in a " couple of
days ".
Last one I got was Aug. 16th, where you confirmed the 8-bolt flange.
In the one below you say it will ship by the end of August. That is more than 3
weeks ago, so I must have missed your latest telling when it was shipped?
But since you never get back to me, I started to use the FEW-List to make sure
you get my mails. If you are so certain your mails get "lost in cyberspace", why
dont you do the same?
That way you will know it is getting out to us.
Tore S Bristol
----- Original Message -----
From: HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com
To: Bristolsabre(at)aol.com
Cc: Tore S. Bristol
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2004 3:25 PM
Subject: PSRU
Tore,
I now have all the pieces I need to do the update on your PSRU. I'll be out of
my office on other business until the 7th. Upon my return your unit is absolute
first on my list of items to get done. It will ship by the end of August.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | FEW builder fly-in |
Guys,
(Great idea Ken!) I'd like to propose an FEW / Stewart / any other P51
replica fly-in (or drive in as will likely be the case for most) for later this
year
in Southern California. My shop is very near the Camarillo Airport and is
somewhat local to several FEW builders. If we shoot for late November or early
December, we can probably get Robert Oliver, Bob Bonde, and Dennis Turner come
in with their FEWs and there is a beautiful flying Stewart on the field built
by Owen Smith and I believe a second S51 under construction there as well. And
possibly the prototype can be available if I can get it out of hock with Jim
Kern by then. The weather is normally quite good around here at that time. We
can all get together for a day at the airport and a second day in my facility
for a barbecue and spend some time getting up to speed on all the latest.
Anyone interested? As this forum only reaches a small portion of the builder group,
pass the idea on to anyone who might have interest and let me know.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FEW builder fly-in |
Ed,
Sounds good to me. I'd love to meet and exchange ideas with other
builders, and admire and glean from the projects that have been successfully
completed.
Let's make this happen. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Turner" <dennis.turner(at)rmci.net> |
| Subject: | RE: FEW Mustang-List: FEW builder fly-in |
Ed,
Great Idea! I'll certainly try to make it.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com
Subject: FEWMustang-List: FEW builder fly-in
Guys,
(Great idea Ken!) I'd like to propose an FEW / Stewart / any other P51
replica fly-in (or drive in as will likely be the case for most) for later
this year
in Southern California. My shop is very near the Camarillo Airport and is
somewhat local to several FEW builders. If we shoot for late November or
early
December, we can probably get Robert Oliver, Bob Bonde, and Dennis Turner
come
in with their FEWs and there is a beautiful flying Stewart on the field
built
by Owen Smith and I believe a second S51 under construction there as well.
And
possibly the prototype can be available if I can get it out of hock with Jim
Kern by then. The weather is normally quite good around here at that time.
We
can all get together for a day at the airport and a second day in my
facility
for a barbecue and spend some time getting up to speed on all the latest.
Anyone interested? As this forum only reaches a small portion of the builder
group,
pass the idea on to anyone who might have interest and let me know.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Oil filter bypass suggestion |
The following is an excerpt from an e-mail that Dennis had sent to me. l
wanted to pass it on to the builders group. I highly recommend doing just what
Dennis has done.
I had another thought on the engine this weekend. When I first completed my
engine install I had to cut a corner off the oil pan to make it fit under the
cowling. That involved grinding off the corner and welding a new plate on.
Well, I evidently left some grindings under one of the baffles in the pan and
they worked their way into the oil stream. The result was scratched bearings
and crank. I discovered it during an early teardown to see how things were
going so it didn't do too much damage. After talking with a few engine builders
in my area I decided to plug the bypass on the oil filter so that this
wouldn't happen again.
During the rebuild, my engine builder thought he'd better check the valve
adjustments but he failed to lock down one of the set screws. The rocker worked
its way up the stud and the lifter started banging the lifting rod into it
with such force that it flattened the end of the rod and stripped the threads on
the stud. The rocker was completely off the stud and laying loose in the
valve tray. When we tore the engine down again we found that all the metal from
the stripped threads were in the filter and there was no further damage to the
bearings. I highly recommend that all builders plug the oil filter bypass and
force all oil through the filter.
Dennis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kenneth Melvin <melvinke(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | FEW builder fly-in |
Count me in! I won't have an airworthy Mustang by then, but will get
there somehow.
Ken Melvin
N51KX
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com
Subject: FEWMustang-List: FEW builder fly-in
Guys,
(Great idea Ken!) I'd like to propose an FEW / Stewart / any other P51
replica fly-in (or drive in as will likely be the case for most) for
later this year
in Southern California. My shop is very near the Camarillo Airport and
is
somewhat local to several FEW builders. If we shoot for late November or
early
December, we can probably get Robert Oliver, Bob Bonde, and Dennis
Turner come
in with their FEWs and there is a beautiful flying Stewart on the field
built
by Owen Smith and I believe a second S51 under construction there as
well. And
possibly the prototype can be available if I can get it out of hock with
Jim
Kern by then. The weather is normally quite good around here at that
time. We
can all get together for a day at the airport and a second day in my
facility
for a barbecue and spend some time getting up to speed on all the
latest.
Anyone interested? As this forum only reaches a small portion of the
builder group,
pass the idea on to anyone who might have interest and let me know.
Ed
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Hoyle" <c.hoyle(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | FEW builder fly-in |
I'll try to make it also unless a snow storm gets between me and California.
Cliff
N2051P
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tore S. Bristol" <tf51(at)c2i.net> |
| Subject: | FEW builder fly-in |
Ed,
Great idea. I will be in FL at that time so I plan to make the trip. Just let me
know the date !
Again, has my PSRU shipped yet ?
Tore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
Thanks for offering to help with the fly-in Larry.
I'll put some details down and send them along. Any suggestions that you may
have are certainly welcomed.
I'll do what I can to get Ed Hooper and Jim to come. We'll see. I have
invited both with no reply from either as of yet. Also looking to invite several
of
the original "players" - both guys who did the initial flight testing, early
prototype assemblers, hangers on, etc. (most are still in the area.)
I think the biggest hurdle is to just get guys there with or without
aircraft. Dennis looks good for bringing his A/C and Robert said the same and I'll
work on Bob Bonde. That would make 3 flying FEWs in one place - gotta be a record
of some kind?! There are a ton of FEW builders that I am not in contact with,
that I need to get in touch with - even a couple of flyers. With any luck
this can put the fire back into some of the guys who have dropped their projects
or are on the sidelines at the moment. If you are in communication with anyone
outside our "group", please pass on the info as it develops. What about Ken's
partner? Jim Wickham makes an annual pilgrimage to the US, so Robert and I
are working on him to come at that time (no aircraft in tow, but a ton of FEW
flying and building experience as he is now nearly done with his second FEW).
Not sure when the next RFA magazine comes out but maybe a small ad / invite
would stir some potential builders to the event. Tom Preuss has responded and
wanted us all to come to Copperstate instead (early next month) - too early for
Dennis and Bob Bonde and I need time to get this rolling. I will ask him
about RFA coverage of the event. Also going to contact all of the magazines that
would be interested. Now I need to work Tom into flying his Mustang to us. I
think in an effort to get several planes to attend I need to open this to any
Mustang replica - you agree?
The local CAF chapter has a Mustang, P38, and a bunch of other warbirds @
Camarillo. I'll see what I can do to get us access to the P51 and maybe get it
out to climb on and possibly get someone to fly it for us.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kenneth Melvin <melvinke(at)direcway.com> |
Ed, even if we have only a single flying FEW, it will be worth while.
The opportunity to hear directly from those who are flying will fire up
the enthusiasm, and the most important thing as I see it, is the
opportunity for the guys who have had disappointments and communication
issues to come to know you and the true "state of the union" down there.
It would be important to have a PSRU on display, and time for a
presentation from you on the engineering that has gone into it since you
took it over. I, for one, would be interested in a visit to your shop,
and perhaps there you could present your ideas and hopes for the future
of the project. We all can bring photos of our projects. I don't know
whether you might have access to a digital projector that read from a
card reader -- I imagine most of us are using digital cameras now.
Access to a real Mustang -- or better still, a flying demonstration --
would be the icing on the cake. If a TF version, maybe a drawing for a
ride??
Looking forward to it.
Ken Melvin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com
Subject: FEWMustang-List: FEW fly-in
Thanks for offering to help with the fly-in Larry.
I'll put some details down and send them along. Any suggestions that you
may
have are certainly welcomed.
I'll do what I can to get Ed Hooper and Jim to come. We'll see. I have
invited both with no reply from either as of yet. Also looking to invite
several of
the original "players" - both guys who did the initial flight testing,
early
prototype assemblers, hangers on, etc. (most are still in the area.)
I think the biggest hurdle is to just get guys there with or without
aircraft. Dennis looks good for bringing his A/C and Robert said the
same and I'll
work on Bob Bonde. That would make 3 flying FEWs in one place - gotta be
a record
of some kind?! There are a ton of FEW builders that I am not in contact
with,
that I need to get in touch with - even a couple of flyers. With any
luck
this can put the fire back into some of the guys who have dropped their
projects
or are on the sidelines at the moment. If you are in communication with
anyone
outside our "group", please pass on the info as it develops. What about
Ken's
partner? Jim Wickham makes an annual pilgrimage to the US, so Robert
and I
are working on him to come at that time (no aircraft in tow, but a ton
of FEW
flying and building experience as he is now nearly done with his second
FEW).
Not sure when the next RFA magazine comes out but maybe a small ad /
invite
would stir some potential builders to the event. Tom Preuss has
responded and
wanted us all to come to Copperstate instead (early next month) - too
early for
Dennis and Bob Bonde and I need time to get this rolling. I will ask him
about RFA coverage of the event. Also going to contact all of the
magazines that
would be interested. Now I need to work Tom into flying his Mustang to
us. I
think in an effort to get several planes to attend I need to open this
to any
Mustang replica - you agree?
The local CAF chapter has a Mustang, P38, and a bunch of other warbirds
@
Camarillo. I'll see what I can do to get us access to the P51 and maybe
get it
out to climb on and possibly get someone to fly it for us.
Ed
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FEW builder fly-in |
Shit yes Ken G.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gerber <44gn(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FEW builder fly-in |
Ed...
Yes I would like to come. Just pin down a date. It would be great to meet you
and the
other builders.
One name comes to mind is Jack Hunt who lives in Wichita, KS Phone no. is 316
524 4800
He had his FEW at Oshkosh the past two years. Invite him with all of the others
coming
he may also come. Gary
HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Guys,
>
> (Great idea Ken!) I'd like to propose an FEW / Stewart / any other P51
> replica fly-in (or drive in as will likely be the case for most) for later this
year
> in Southern California. My shop is very near the Camarillo Airport and is
> somewhat local to several FEW builders. If we shoot for late November or early
> December, we can probably get Robert Oliver, Bob Bonde, and Dennis Turner come
> in with their FEWs and there is a beautiful flying Stewart on the field built
> by Owen Smith and I believe a second S51 under construction there as well. And
> possibly the prototype can be available if I can get it out of hock with Jim
> Kern by then. The weather is normally quite good around here at that time. We
> can all get together for a day at the airport and a second day in my facility
> for a barbecue and spend some time getting up to speed on all the latest.
> Anyone interested? As this forum only reaches a small portion of the builder
group,
> pass the idea on to anyone who might have interest and let me know.
>
> Ed
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gerber <44gn(at)kconline.com> |
Ed....
The next deadline for the RFA magazine is Oct. 15. This will not do us any good
as
mail date is Nov 15th or there abouts. You should get in touch with Tom and clear
this
with him as to mailing date. Gary
HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Thanks for offering to help with the fly-in Larry.
>
> I'll put some details down and send them along. Any suggestions that you may
> have are certainly welcomed.
>
> I'll do what I can to get Ed Hooper and Jim to come. We'll see. I have
> invited both with no reply from either as of yet. Also looking to invite several
of
> the original "players" - both guys who did the initial flight testing, early
> prototype assemblers, hangers on, etc. (most are still in the area.)
>
> I think the biggest hurdle is to just get guys there with or without
> aircraft. Dennis looks good for bringing his A/C and Robert said the same and
I'll
> work on Bob Bonde. That would make 3 flying FEWs in one place - gotta be a record
> of some kind?! There are a ton of FEW builders that I am not in contact with,
> that I need to get in touch with - even a couple of flyers. With any luck
> this can put the fire back into some of the guys who have dropped their projects
> or are on the sidelines at the moment. If you are in communication with anyone
> outside our "group", please pass on the info as it develops. What about Ken's
> partner? Jim Wickham makes an annual pilgrimage to the US, so Robert and I
> are working on him to come at that time (no aircraft in tow, but a ton of FEW
> flying and building experience as he is now nearly done with his second FEW).
>
> Not sure when the next RFA magazine comes out but maybe a small ad / invite
> would stir some potential builders to the event. Tom Preuss has responded and
> wanted us all to come to Copperstate instead (early next month) - too early for
> Dennis and Bob Bonde and I need time to get this rolling. I will ask him
> about RFA coverage of the event. Also going to contact all of the magazines that
> would be interested. Now I need to work Tom into flying his Mustang to us. I
> think in an effort to get several planes to attend I need to open this to any
> Mustang replica - you agree?
>
> The local CAF chapter has a Mustang, P38, and a bunch of other warbirds @
> Camarillo. I'll see what I can do to get us access to the P51 and maybe get it
> out to climb on and possibly get someone to fly it for us.
>
> Ed
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gerber <44gn(at)kconline.com> |
Ed....
You can put some information on the RFA web site. Gary
HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Thanks for offering to help with the fly-in Larry.
>
> I'll put some details down and send them along. Any suggestions that you may
> have are certainly welcomed.
>
> I'll do what I can to get Ed Hooper and Jim to come. We'll see. I have
> invited both with no reply from either as of yet. Also looking to invite several
of
> the original "players" - both guys who did the initial flight testing, early
> prototype assemblers, hangers on, etc. (most are still in the area.)
>
> I think the biggest hurdle is to just get guys there with or without
> aircraft. Dennis looks good for bringing his A/C and Robert said the same and
I'll
> work on Bob Bonde. That would make 3 flying FEWs in one place - gotta be a record
> of some kind?! There are a ton of FEW builders that I am not in contact with,
> that I need to get in touch with - even a couple of flyers. With any luck
> this can put the fire back into some of the guys who have dropped their projects
> or are on the sidelines at the moment. If you are in communication with anyone
> outside our "group", please pass on the info as it develops. What about Ken's
> partner? Jim Wickham makes an annual pilgrimage to the US, so Robert and I
> are working on him to come at that time (no aircraft in tow, but a ton of FEW
> flying and building experience as he is now nearly done with his second FEW).
>
> Not sure when the next RFA magazine comes out but maybe a small ad / invite
> would stir some potential builders to the event. Tom Preuss has responded and
> wanted us all to come to Copperstate instead (early next month) - too early for
> Dennis and Bob Bonde and I need time to get this rolling. I will ask him
> about RFA coverage of the event. Also going to contact all of the magazines that
> would be interested. Now I need to work Tom into flying his Mustang to us. I
> think in an effort to get several planes to attend I need to open this to any
> Mustang replica - you agree?
>
> The local CAF chapter has a Mustang, P38, and a bunch of other warbirds @
> Camarillo. I'll see what I can do to get us access to the P51 and maybe get it
> out to climb on and possibly get someone to fly it for us.
>
> Ed
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Copperstate, FEW fly-in |
Thanks to all who have responded regarding our FEW fly-in. Attendance is
building rapidly and we will be working hard to insure that this a success and
hopefully an annual gathering. Help me get the word out. I am looking at mid
November as a first choice.
Is anyone planning to attend the Copperstate event next month? I believe it
is October 7th - 10th.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gerber <44gn(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Copperstate, FEW fly-in |
Ed...
Yes I will be attending Copper State. Gary
HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Thanks to all who have responded regarding our FEW fly-in. Attendance is
> building rapidly and we will be working hard to insure that this a success and
> hopefully an annual gathering. Help me get the word out. I am looking at mid
> November as a first choice.
>
> Is anyone planning to attend the Copperstate event next month? I believe it
> is October 7th - 10th.
>
> Ed
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
Guys,
I'm looking at November 13th and 14th for our gathering. Any input /
conflicting plans?
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
Works good for me . Ken G.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kenneth Melvin <melvinke(at)direcway.com> |
That weekend will be just fine.
Thanks Ed.
Ken Melvin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com
Subject: FEWMustang-List: Fly-in date
Guys,
I'm looking at November 13th and 14th for our gathering. Any input /
conflicting plans?
Ed
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ChrisL3064(at)aol.com |
Ken Melvin's partner.
Nov 13-14 is best for me. I'll try to come with Ken.
Chris Longaker
________________________________________________________________________________
Ed;
I'm planning to be there. Are the dates firm enough for me to buy
tickets? I plan to arrive Santa Barbara @6:30 Fri 11/12 and depart Monday am.
Can you recommend a convient place to stay? I am looking forward to an exciting
interchange of ideas. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gerber <44gn(at)kconline.com> |
Ok for me. Gary
HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Guys,
>
> I'm looking at November 13th and 14th for our gathering. Any input /
> conflicting plans?
>
> Ed
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
Larry,
I plan to confirm the date (11.13 / 11.14) over the weekend. I'll also
recommend a few hotels in the area. My shop is only 7-10 minutes from the Camarillo
airport and there are many hotels nearby, so there shouldn't be any problem
finding accommodations for all. I've got only 10 confirmed FEW attendees (and 4
flying aircraft) at this point. I'll put a list together of MIA FEW builders
and start beating the bushes.
How did your ignition leads work out?
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tore S. Bristol" <tf51(at)c2i.net> |
Ed Hullinger.
According to your mail of July 28th, you would ship my PSRU by the end of Aug
2004.
It has been in transit now for 5 weeks, and I have heard nothing from you.
Could I have the tracking No. , as it must be delayed or lost on the way.
Tore S Bristol
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tore S. Bristol" <tf51(at)c2i.net> |
Good news.
I am in FL at that time so I plan to make the Fly In too.
Have already booked tickets. Will fly in the night before.
Have looked at motels, will it be best to stay in Camarillo?
Guess that is closest to the airport, and I remember your shop was just over the
hill.
Please confirm date asap as I have to confirm tickets.
regards
Tore S Bristol
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
Tore,
The dates are confirmed and I will book a block of rooms for all attending at
a suitable hotel nearby.
Would you like your PSRU shipped to FL? - I will be able to do so next week
just after Robert Oliver's engine package testing is finished. At the moment, I
have only one test rig built so I have to complete Robert's LS1 engine / PSRU
tests, convert the stand back to my mule motor, and then run 10 hours on your
unit prior to shipping.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tore S. Bristol" <tf51(at)c2i.net> |
Ed,
That is great, I have to buy the tickets tomorrow as there are not too many
seats avialable. I will arrive in the afternoon of Nov 12th.
Yes , ship my PSRU to FL as we agreed on last winter.
I guess I can start looking for it around the 20 to 25th then.
If you have mislayed my adress;
Tore S Bristol
#408 Airpark Glen
Cannon Creek Airpark
32025 Lake City
Florida
Tore
----- Original Message -----
From: <HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: FEWMustang-List: Fly In
>
> Tore,
>
> The dates are confirmed and I will book a block of rooms for all attending
at
> a suitable hotel nearby.
>
> Would you like your PSRU shipped to FL? - I will be able to do so next
week
> just after Robert Oliver's engine package testing is finished. At the
moment, I
> have only one test rig built so I have to complete Robert's LS1 engine /
PSRU
> tests, convert the stand back to my mule motor, and then run 10 hours on
your
> unit prior to shipping.
>
> Ed
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
Guys.
Jim Kern has agreed to attend our gathering on Nov. 13th and 14th. Now I'm
working on getting Ed Hooper there as well.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
Count on three rooms and bodys from Ken. I'm bringing both my engine builder
and the a/p whose doing the retracts. Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MWatson83(at)aol.com |
Ed,
It looks like I'll be able to attend. So put me on your list. I plan a
booking flights in the next couple of days - please let me know if any thing has
changed and any additional info on motels. Thanks, see you soon.
Mark Watson
(850)497-8288
mwatson83(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
A thought for all you builders who will be attending the Fly-in.
The completeness of instructions that each of us has is VERY
VARIABLE. I have gotten many important instruction pages from others.
If we all bring what instructions we have, and any aides that we
have developed and/or stumbled upon, the pooling of information could be very
useful. We may need to commandeer a local Kinkos. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
I'm installing my ldg. gear and have run into this page in manual where the
retract cylinder is modified with a spacer. With this page is a hand note that
this may not be right. Anybody help clear up my mind as what I need to do.
Also I've found a good source for brass shim stock to use in the fitting up of
the the downlock brackets. Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: (no subject) |
Ken G.
I don't know if I will help you clear up or muddy up the issue. I
found that when my gear retracted under hydraulic pressures of 1000-1100 psi, it
hit the uplocks pretty hard. So I made some calculations, and put in the
spacers, as directed. I made mine 0.090 alum. The gear sounds better, doesn't
hit as hard. I have the feeling that each installation is going to be
different, based on small differences in dimensions. It's easier to put the spacers
in
before you put everything together and hook up the pump. But you'll never
know for sure if you really needed them. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Turner" <dennis.turner(at)rmci.net> |
Ken,
The travel on the cylinder is greater than you need. That assures there is
sufficient travel to raise the gear in every case, since the installation
WILL vary slightly from plane to plane. The spacer goes on the cylinder rod
to limit the travel to what is needed. My spacers were about a half inch
thick (see last paragraph for why).
Once I had the gear installed in the wing I adjusted the rod end bearing to
the length necessary to position the gear in the down and locked position
when the cylinder rod is fully retracted. Then, I pushed the gear to the up
and locked position. I carefully disconnected the actuator and measured how
much more rod travel there was by pulling the rod out to the end. I then
took a piece of aluminum bar stock and cut a piece slightly larger than that
distance. I think it was 3/4" stock, but I'm not sure and it doesn't matter
as long as it is larger than the push rod and smaller than the inside of the
cylinder body. Drill a hole the size of the push rod through the center of
the cut pieces and you have your spacer. Then it's install, test, grind
down and repeat until you have the right size. I installed a set screw in
my spacers, but I'm not sure it is necessary since they are considerably
smaller then the cylinder diameter and therefore, even if floating free will
slide to the end as the push rod extends. If your setup doesn't require a
thick spacer, so much the better. Some people have used thin spacers and
glued or epoxied them to the back of the rod end (where the cylinder washer
separates the upside from the downside).
One other consideration for those who haven't installed the actuator anchor
point. When you are putting the actuator in, the length the rod end bearing
sticks out at the end of the rod is important. If you put the rod end
bearing too far into the rod, the lock nut will hit the mechanism on the
landing gear. So, if you haven't positioned the aluminum anchors, you
should put the rod in just enough to assure won't hit the lever arms on the
landing gear axle and then, with the cylinder installed, fully retracted,
and the gear down, position the anchors.
Hope this clears up the spacer issue.
Dennis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bristolsabre(at)aol.com |
Ed.
As I have not heard from you since Oct. 5th, when you said my PSRU was
finished and only needed 10hrs in the test stand, I wonder if it has been shipped?
I am expecting to receive it before I go to LA Nov 12th.
Tore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bristolsabre(at)aol.com |
Would the gentleman who sent me a picture of his fantastic looking all silver
P51D Mustang,
please send me his E-mail adress. Your message seems to have gotten lost in
my computor, and I would like to reply to your questions.
Regards
Tore S Bristol
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bristolsabre(at)aol.com |
Ed,
thanks for coming back so soon.
I will only need a room from friday to saturday, as I already booked for the
rest to make sure I had accomodations.
I still need to know name and adress though.
Regards
Tore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bristolsabre(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Hotel booking/ Rate ? |
Ed,
still waiting for the map to the hotel. Also would like confirmation on hotel
booking.
I have been away all day today, and will be away flying all day tomorrow too.
That leaves little time before departure friday morning.
Tore
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hotel booking/ Rate ? |
Tore,
The motel that Ed has reserved is :
The Hyatt Westlake
880 South Westlake Blvd
Westlake Village Ca 91361
1-800-233-1234
Best bet for directions is to go to www.MapQuest.com and type in LAX as
a starting point and the above address as destination. They will give you
Printable maps and driving directions.
You can confirm reservations by going to www.Travelocity.com and typing
in the motel name and address. Or, call toll free.
See you on Sat. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bristolsabre(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Hotel booking/ Rate ? |
Larry,
I already found the hotel on internet, but as I understood Ed he was going to
book the rooms. When I checked there was no booking in Eds or my name, so I
will just do it myself.
See you friday night or saturday morning.
Regards
Tore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Hotel booking/ Rate ? |
All the rooms are reserved via my travel booking agent. You guys have the
choice of staying at the Hyatt in Westlake Village or now at the Country Inn in
Camarillo. I thought it would be good to have everyone together (for meeting up
for dinner and such) but a couple of guys got nervous and booked rooms
thinking that I didn't have anything for them and now we are really spread out.
The
Country Inn is about $90.00 a night and the Westlake Hyatt $170.00. The Hyatt
has much more amenities - but who really cares? I'm gonna try to move everyone
to the Country Inn if that is doable. For those of you looking for my shop -
do a Mapquest search for 948 Tourmaline Drive, Newbury Park, CA 91320 and
you'll find it is easy to get to. Call my cell today to sort out where you want
to stay so my credit card isn't billed for rooms I've held and not used. -
805.402.1554.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ChrisL3064(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Hotel booking/ Rate ? |
Ed,
Ken Melvin, Larry Eidemiller and I are staying at the Country Inn. Sorry
about the mixup!!
Chris Longaker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Oliver" <rocslo(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hotel booking/ Rate ? |
Ed: Cannot seem to contact you. Wanted to get set up for a room. Will
probably drive down and thought I would bring the pickup so I can bring the
engine back. I could bring my boys trailer down and bring the engine back
on your test stand if it would be easier. Let me know on a room . Robert
----- Original Message -----
From: <HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: FEWMustang-List: Hotel booking/ Rate ?
>
> All the rooms are reserved via my travel booking agent. You guys have the
> choice of staying at the Hyatt in Westlake Village or now at the Country
Inn in
> Camarillo. I thought it would be good to have everyone together (for
meeting up
> for dinner and such) but a couple of guys got nervous and booked rooms
> thinking that I didn't have anything for them and now we are really spread
out. The
> Country Inn is about $90.00 a night and the Westlake Hyatt $170.00. The
Hyatt
> has much more amenities - but who really cares? I'm gonna try to move
everyone
> to the Country Inn if that is doable. For those of you looking for my
shop -
> do a Mapquest search for 948 Tourmaline Drive, Newbury Park, CA 91320 and
> you'll find it is easy to get to. Call my cell today to sort out where you
want
> to stay so my credit card isn't billed for rooms I've held and not used. -
> 805.402.1554.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bristolsabre(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Hotel booking/ Rate ? |
Ed,
of course we are spread out.
Remembered you told us the Hyatt Westlake was where you had reserved rooms?
This is the first I hear about another place, a bit late I think. And
definately to late to cancel and book a new room.
I certainly would not like to start looking for a room when I arrive in the
evening.
You also said you would mail directions 5 days ago.
When I checked last night, there was no booking in your or my name, so I
booked on the net. That is much cheaper as well( $97)
I am still totally in the dark as to when and where we meet.
Tore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Hotel booking/ Rate ? |
Meet at my shop on Saturday morning - 9:00 AM. I'm a little busy to be
everyone's social director.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Hotel booking/ Rate ? |
Robert,
I'll get you into the hotel for Saturday and Sunday nights.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Lister Comments - Please Support The Lists |
Dear Listers,
Wow! People have been including some very nice comments along with their
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days left in this year's Fund Raiser, so if you've been waiting until the
last minute to make your Contribution, now's the time!
Make Your Contribution Today: http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FEWMustang-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 12/12/04 |
Hey Larry and Dennis and any others flying. I'm mating wing to fuse and i
find that if I trim the rear spar notch to the plans it is 4.5" back from the
factory trim line in my factory fast build fuse.. Just being cautious I drove
home and measured Huey wrecked fuse to compare and found that Huey's wing was
1" ahead of the magic 26" on page 50 . So my question is, do I follow the
drawings in my manual and disregard what was working on Huey's plane? Also if
anyone has the distance between the rear spar vertical notch and the vertical
joggle of the scoop and I'd like to check it out before I start drilling holes.
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FEWMustang-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 12/14/04 |
Ken G.
I'm not sure that I understand your questions exactly. Perhaps, If no
one else answers your question to your satisfaction, a phone conversation would
be in order.
The key here is to properly position the wing, where you want it. I
placed mine 7/8th" aft of the reference because I knew that my engine and Pru
would be heavy, and I wish at all costs to avoid a tail heavy situation.
Once the wing is exactly where you want it carefully minding not only
frwd/aft but also roll, incidence and alignment, you simply trim the fuselage
to fit. a small gap (1/8-1/4th") is good to avoid binding. It will be
completely covered by farings.
Match drill the attachment fittings to fix the relationships. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FEWMustang-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 12/12/04 |
Ken,
I'll have a look at the prototype today and let you know what I see.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FEWMustang-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 12/15/04 |
Larry, are you using Ed's geaarbox? Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | [PLEASE READ NOW] - Addressing Upgrade At Matronics TONIGHT! |
Dear Listers,
Service Provider to upgrade to a larger IP subnet. I will be
re-addressing all of the machines on the network including the
Matronics Web Server and Matronics Email Server at that time. Name
Service will be updated at that time as well and most things should
work again pretty quick. There may be some bounced email for a few hours
or even a day or so as the new name-to-ip-address resolutions propagate
into the depths of the Internet.
If you have problems posting a message to one of the Lists or get a
bounced message back, please wait a couple of hours and try sending it
again. Generally, access to the web site should work within 1-hour of
Hopefully the transition will go smoothly and you'll hardly even
notice! :-)
Thanks for your patience!
Matt Dralle
List Administrator
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tore S. Bristol" <tf51(at)c2i.net> |
0.06 DATE_IN_FUTURE_06_12 Date": fewmustang-list(at)matronics.com
Hi Ed,
Visited with Jan N=F8tnes the other day, and he had met Tommy in Stockholm on one
of his flights.
He and his friend are both still interested in buying 2 fastbuild kits , but the
are both disappointed that you did not take time to answer their
questions. They have waited since August 2004 !
They are also looking at Lancair and RV 8, but what they really want is a Mustang
!
They want it so bad they are even looking at Jurca plans.
But I still think you can sell 2 kits if you get your act together.
Regards
Tore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harold & Linda Anderson" <andy_lindaanderson(at)msn.com> |
Tore,
Would your friends be interested in buying my fuselage? It's 90%
complete, all it needs is a tail wheel, and the forward electronics /
avionics. I would let it go for $18,000.00 $19,500 with a new trailer to
haul it. I have a wing assembly from another builder, I've given him a
deposit only, so they could make their own deal for it, it's waiting on
landing gear so it can be closed up.
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tore S.
Bristol
fewmustang-list(at)matronics.com
Subject:
Hi Ed,
Visited with Jan N=F8tnes the other day, and he had met Tommy in
Stockholm on one of his flights.
He and his friend are both still interested in buying 2 fastbuild kits
their
questions. They have waited since August 2004 !
They are also looking at Lancair and RV 8, but what they really want is
a Mustang !
They want it so bad they are even looking at Jurca plans.
But I still think you can sell 2 kits if you get your act together.
Regards
Tore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skyrider <skyrider(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | TF51 Kit with Engine PSRU and extras - for sale |
Since you are on this list FEW Mustang list you must already be familiar
with the FEW kits there's not much more I need to say about those. There are
photos and details at fighterescortwings dot com . So I'll provide more
details about the engine-PSRU.
First some background: I used to be a professional race engine builder. I've
built hundreds of engines and I was Manager of the engine R&D department for
a major automotive OEM. Presently I am a Principal Engineer at Raytheon
Missile Systems in Tucson Arizona where I have been in charge of developing
military UAV's and such. I have had more than 15 homebuilts and projects
since the mid 70's and I have built 7 to completion and several airframes
for other people, some buy-and-rebuild projects and so on. I have a large
hobby shop, well equipped, including a CNC mill.
I developed this engine over several years in the mid 90's for an airplane
called the Viper. It was a single seat go-fast composite with dual
turbochargers on the engine. It was featured in an article in Kitplanes and
shown in Sport Aviation. It was on the back outside cover of the Wick's
Aircraft catalog a few years ago. I'll email you a photo if you like. Jim
Kern at Task/FEW and some other companies were even interested in building
parts for it or in kitting it.
The turbos I originally had on it were selected and the TEC was tuned to
allow this engine to make about 450HP at sea level and to hold that all the
way up to about 20,000 feet. The engine has about 9 hours of running time on
the ground, on the Viper airframe, in flyable trim (not just a jury rig for
a test stand). The airplane was destroyed in a ground accident at that point
due to a brake lock-up on a taxi test. The prop tips struck the ground so
the blades are ruined but there is no damage to anything else due to the
broken blades. The MT composite blades are just wood cores coated with a
thin fiberglass so it just turned the blade tips into a million toothpicks.
The turbos are gone now, but you don't want them on a Mustang kit anyway.
You could run this engine normally aspirated or run a centrifugal blower
(e.g. Vortech or Paxton). If you run it normally aspirated then you can run
relatively low octane gas. It will run cooler too. It mostly depends on how
much power you want versus cost and complexity. If I were to finish the FEW
for myself I'd add a Vortech blower parallel to the dry-sump oil pump and
add a belt drive to the existing drive stack. Real P51 Merlin engines had
centrifugal blowers.
For this engine I had Donovan machine their aluminum V8 block (their version
of S.B. Chevy) with a 0.4 inch taller than stock deck. The same model
Donovan blocks
have been run on fuel in dragsters and made 1340hp, so this block is strong!
I
used 6.0in. long chrome moly rods from Crower, the heavy NASCAR Grand
National rods (800+HP strong). Ross Racing made the required pistons. This
geometry (a much larger rod-to-stroke ratio than a real S.B. Chevy) will
lower the RPM of the peak horsepower point. That brings it much closer to
what an airplane application needs. So this is NOT some sort of hot rod car
engine, it was developed specifically for an airplane. I used the highest
quality, strongest, most bullet proof parts, but kept the engine tuned like
you would tune a tow truck or a motor home. This is unique to this engine
versus a GM crate motor. So this engine can make more power at a lower RPM
and run a lower PSRU gear ratio and that will make the engine quieter and
last longer (all else being equal)(and perhaps sound more authentic). If I
finished the FEW kit for myself, I was intending to run a Vortech blower on
it and I like to run dual batteries. With the batteries mounted on/near the
firewall, the blower, and the oil tank in front of the firewall I think the
weight and balance won't be too far off. I also considered moving the engine
an inch or so forward to help even more. I hate ballast. Here are the
details:
426 cu.in. small block all aluminum V8:
Donovan Aluminum small block casting (all S.B.Chevy external bolt
patterns), 4.125in. bore x 4.0in. stroke
AFR aluminum heads, 2.05in. SS intakes and 1.65in. solid Inconel
exhaust valves.
CompCams roller-tip rockers
Chrome moly large diameter pushrods, hardened guides.
Crower Turbo cam
Crower 6in. 4130 Grand-National rods
Crower 4130 forged steel crank, 400 sized mains
Ross custom 2618 forged pistons, ~8.25:1 C.R.
Total Seal Rings
Fluidamper, 7.25in.
5-stage dry sump oil system, HTD drive belt
Milodon dry-sump pan with swing-gate pickup.
Electromotive TEC (Total Engine Control) system (crank trigger DIS +
MPI fuel injection, 150+ parameters can be tuned via a PC's serial port)
Custom intake manifold (long runners) with large integrated throttle
body.
All required sensors to run the engine (MAP, CLT, TPOS, etc)
Delco Alternator + External aircraft regulator with OV control
Aluminum water pump
All accessories run with 8mm HTD timing belts (stronger, reduces
bearing loads)
All hoses are Aeroquip AQP racing hose (no inferior aircraft grade
hoses)
High-torque mini starter
Coolant header tank above PSRU
Airborn vacuum pump
{I also have a new aluminum radiator that I bought for the FEW kit. It
will be included}
Propeller Speed Reduction Unit (PSRU):
Magnesium case (Universal back plate & front cover)
Timken roller bearings on back of prop shaft (at driven sprocket)
Roller bearings on front of prop shaft
Chrome Moly prop shaft & flange
Billet Steel "outer mass" flywheel with 153T ring gear
1.82:1 ratio with heat treated sprockets
3" wide Morse Hy-Vo chain drive
Adjustable crank-trigger ignition sensor & mount on front of case
Built-in torque and thrust strain gages on prop shaft (built-in dyno)
MTV-29 3-blade prop hub with electric pitch change and "constant
speed" electronics box
Matching Kevlar spinner (not for FEW)
(prop blade roots available for rebuilding new blades, FEW needs
different blades anyway
Instruments & Avionics:
The Viper was a completed airplane, ready to fly, IFR equipped. It had
5
traditional 3.125_inch diamater pitot-static and vacuum gyro
instruments. It
had a complete stack of Terra radios which are about 4" wide and will
fit
nicely in a Mustang kit. Plus I have a handful of other instruments
that
will go with it. The Viper had a "glass cockpit" setup for everything
else,
but that is not available (you wouldn't want it in a Mustang anyway,
too
modern looking). When the Viper was destroyed I removed everything and
was
intending to use it all in the Mustang. So now all of this is
available with
this FEW kit.
I will not split up the engine package to sell the engine or PSRU or prop
hub separately. It is a good package as it is. I will sell the
engine/PSRU/Prop hub separate from the FEW kit. Likewise I won't sell the
instruments and avionics until someone buys the FEW kit in case they want
them too. If they don't want the instruments and avionics, then I'll sell
avionics after the kit is gone.
FEW and CamFire and others are selling their V8 PSRU's for about $10K. This
one is at least as strong, probably stronger (and has the built-in dyno!),
but with the magnesium case it is fairly light. My Donovan bare block alone
costs more than most complete, ready-to-run GM crate motors do. This engine
would cost at least $20K if you went shopping for a similar one. And the MTV
propeller was almost $13K new. Assuming the blades are 50% of the cost then
there's $6.5K value left in it. That totals up to about $36.5K. I still have
the blade roots and was intending to just make new blades onto them were I
to finish the FEW kit. You could do that or just buy new blades from MT or
have a prop-maker rebuild new blades on the MT roots.
You can see from the FEW web site that the kits are $69.5K, their crate
motors are nearly $10K, their PSRU is $10K, their plumbing is $1.25K, their
prop is $15K, prop governor and drive is $1.4k, radiator is $0.4K, so that
is $107,550. If you discount their prop 50% too (for the blades) you have
about $100K even. Then, go add the prices of airspeed, altimeter,
directional gyro, artificial horizon, turn and bank indicator, ROC meter,
and the Terra radio stack with Comm, Nav, Transponder/marker beacon
receiver, encoding altimeter, and a handful of engine instruments and your
back up between $110K and $120K.
As for the FEW kit, it is the fast-build TF-51 version. So the fuselage
halves and bulkheads are already mated from the factory, I added the
windshield bow, canopy tracks and canopy+skirt. It is the TF51 bubble
canopy. I closed the empennage assembly. I have done zero to the wings,
which have the bottom skin plus the upper skin with all the ribs and spars
factory installed. I have a couple of large wooden crates with all the other
bits and pieces. The only sub-kit missing is the landing gear. The spinner
is also missing but paid for and FEW owes one to this kit. What very little
work I did on it is first class. Aside from those items I just mentioned, it
is essentially an untouched kit.
As for price, I am looking at moving out of state in a few months and
probably to an apartment. So I really don't want to move all this stuff with
me. So let's just say I am very motivated to sell and the quicker and easier
the transaction the less I'll probably take. Make me an offer. I also have a
22' enclosed trailer available.
Thanks,
Daryl Elam
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harold & Linda Anderson" <andy_lindaanderson(at)msn.com> |
Tore,
Did you receive my e-mail regarding my fuselage fro sale? My server
crashed and I don't know who got what?
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tore S.
Bristol
fewmustang-list(at)matronics.com
Subject:
Hi Ed,
Visited with Jan N=F8tnes the other day, and he had met Tommy in
Stockholm on one of his flights.
He and his friend are both still interested in buying 2 fastbuild kits
their
questions. They have waited since August 2004 !
They are also looking at Lancair and RV 8, but what they really want is
a Mustang !
They want it so bad they are even looking at Jurca plans.
But I still think you can sell 2 kits if you get your act together.
Regards
Tore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tore S. Bristol" <tf51(at)c2i.net> |
Andy,
Yes, thank you I did.
I have not talked to Capt. Bostroem yet. Will try to see him on my way to
Germany next week.
But I think they are basically interested in 2 new and complete kits.
Tore
----- Original Message -----
From: "Harold & Linda Anderson" <andy_lindaanderson(at)msn.com>
Subject: FEWMustang-List: RE:
>
>
> Tore,
> Did you receive my e-mail regarding my fuselage fro sale? My server
> crashed and I don't know who got what?
>
> Andy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-fewmustang-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tore S.
> Bristol
> To: 0.06 DATE_IN_FUTURE_06_12 Date :
> fewmustang-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject:
>
>
> Hi Ed,
> Visited with Jan N=F8tnes the other day, and he had met Tommy in
> Stockholm on one of his flights.
> He and his friend are both still interested in buying 2 fastbuild kits
> their
> questions. They have waited since August 2004 !
> They are also looking at Lancair and RV 8, but what they really want is
> a Mustang !
> They want it so bad they are even looking at Jurca plans.
> But I still think you can sell 2 kits if you get your act together.
>
> Regards
> Tore
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Olen Goodwin" <ogoodwin(at)comcast.net> |
What size tire does the FEW use? I know you use Matco wheels and brakes, but wonder
what size.
Olen Goodwin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: main gear tires |
Olen,
Not sure if the above will read correctly, but these are the specs. for the
FEW mains.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: main gear tires |
Olen,
I'll try that again.
The wheels are part no. W60 (6" Wheel and Brake Assy.)
The tires are part no. T600x6-4 (6.00 x 6-4 4 ply Airtrack - would recommend
6 ply for FEWs if you can fit them in the wing - higher load rating)
The tubes are part no. TU5.3x6 (5.30 x 6)
All Matco numbers.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Olen Goodwin" <ogoodwin(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: main gear tires |
Thanks Ed.
Olen
----- Original Message -----
From: <HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: FEWMustang-List: main gear tires
>
> Olen,
>
> I'll try that again.
>
> The wheels are part no. W60 (6" Wheel and Brake Assy.)
> The tires are part no. T600x6-4 (6.00 x 6-4 4 ply Airtrack - would
recommend
> 6 ply for FEWs if you can fit them in the wing - higher load rating)
> The tubes are part no. TU5.3x6 (5.30 x 6)
>
> All Matco numbers.
>
> Ed
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tore S. Bristol" <tf51(at)c2i.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: Missing PSRU |
----- Original Message -----
From: Tore S. Bristol
Subject: Missing PSRU
Ed,
Tried sending you a mail some time ago, but you never reply, so I never know
if you receive anything.So I try this adress.
As you can see from your mail of aug 7th 2003!!! my Psru was only days from being
finished. That is more than 18 months ago!!
Since then you have told me many times it was supposedly ready,and you were only
days away from shipping it to me.So where is it?
I also noticed when we were wisiting with you in Nov 04, that none of the "
Kits" in your shop had my name on it.
Correct me if I am wrong, but I have feeling I am never going to get what I paid
for?
Tore
----- Original Message -----
From: HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com
To: Tore S. Bristol
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2003 1:34 AM
Subject: PSRU
Tore,
I hope you made it home safely
Just letting you know that I'm working on your PSRU at the moment. A coupe of
days and it will be completed. Likely run the pre-delivery test early next week.
Dave Bothe came out for a couple of days for a bit of inspiration.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Missing PSRU |
Tore,
Tell me where to send it, Florida or Norway, and it will ship this week.
I have been extremely busy with the work required setting up the new FEW LLC
business as well as moving the entire shop to the airport. Because of this
workload and some recent changes at the airport, I have not had the
opportunity to find a suitable location to operate the PSRU test stand. It is
likely
that we will be able to carry this work out at the airport but that decision
has yet to be made. If I ship it now, your unit will have to be sent with zero
time on it. I am not comfortable doing this, but it sounds like your urgency
is greater than I anticipated.
I apologize as my current focus has been trying to save FEW and not
fulfilling my previous commitments.
Again, I can ship your PSRU as soon as you give me the address.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tore S. Bristol" <tf51(at)c2i.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Missing PSRU |
Ed,
I thought you had my adress, as I have given it to you about 5 times.
It still is;
TORE S BRISTOL
408 SW Airpark Glen
Lake City
Florida 32025
With regard to your previous commitments, there has been 18 !!!!! months to
do it in.
Over the last 12 months you have told me time and again that it was ready
and only needed test stand time.
And again in early aug 2004 you told me it would ship in a few days.
I also told you a year ago that my project was coming to a halt waiting for
the PSRU, so I can not understand you did not" anticipate my urgency".
I will be in Florida waiting for it.Guess I should have it in 2 weeks if you
ship it this time.
Tore
----- Original Message -----
From: <HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: FEWMustang-List: Fw: Missing PSRU
>
> Tore,
>
> Tell me where to send it, Florida or Norway, and it will ship this week.
>
> I have been extremely busy with the work required setting up the new FEW
> LLC
> business as well as moving the entire shop to the airport. Because of
> this
> workload and some recent changes at the airport, I have not had the
> opportunity to find a suitable location to operate the PSRU test stand.
> It is likely
> that we will be able to carry this work out at the airport but that
> decision
> has yet to be made. If I ship it now, your unit will have to be sent with
> zero
> time on it. I am not comfortable doing this, but it sounds like your
> urgency
> is greater than I anticipated.
>
> I apologize as my current focus has been trying to save FEW and not
> fulfilling my previous commitments.
>
> Again, I can ship your PSRU as soon as you give me the address.
>
> Ed
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skyrider <skyrider(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | Need a TF-51 kit ? |
Tore and anyone else interested,
I have a TF-51 kit for sale complete except for landing gear subkit. I also
have a complete Donovan small block Chevy motor WITH a PSRU which already
has 9 hours ground running on it. Plus, I have lots of instruments, Terra
radios and other needed items. The FEW kit has very little done on it, so
it's almost like starting from a new kit except for HALF price ! Contact me
for more details. - - - Daryl Elam 520-586-0296
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cory Emberson" <bootless(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Builder Feedback Requested for Kitplanes Articles (Alternative |
Engines)
Hello everyone,
I've subscribed (quietly) to this list for a little more than a year, and
would like to hear from you if you're a builder who has successfully
installed and flown an alternative engine in your plane. I'm writing a
builder's roundup for Kitplanes magazine, and am looking for an installation
that's flown for a minimum of 150 hours, and is currently flying.
For the builders that we profile, the magazine will also be able to pay you
$100 for the write-up. We would also need at least 2-3 good photos,
including a close-up of the engine and an overall shot of the aircraft.
Additional photos would be great, and all photos will be returned. If you
have digital photos, it is very important that they be high-resolution, at
least 300 dpi.
I have a list of specific areas to address if you'd like to participate, but
we can handle that off-line.
Please feel free to contact me off-line at:
cory @ lightspeededit.com (remove the spaces - my anti-spam protection)
or reply offline to my list email address.
I have a rather short deadline, so if you're able to contact me as soon as
you're able, I would greatly appreciate it!
Thank you so much!
best,
Cory Emberson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary" <44gn(at)kconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Builder Feedback Requested for Kitplanes Articles |
(Alternative Engines)
Ed... Maybe you can get some promotion for FEW with Cory. Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cory Emberson" <bootless(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: FEWMustang-List: Builder Feedback Requested for Kitplanes Articles
(Alternative Engines)
>
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> I've subscribed (quietly) to this list for a little more than a year, and
> would like to hear from you if you're a builder who has successfully
> installed and flown an alternative engine in your plane. I'm writing a
> builder's roundup for Kitplanes magazine, and am looking for an
> installation
> that's flown for a minimum of 150 hours, and is currently flying.
>
> For the builders that we profile, the magazine will also be able to pay
> you
> $100 for the write-up. We would also need at least 2-3 good photos,
> including a close-up of the engine and an overall shot of the aircraft.
> Additional photos would be great, and all photos will be returned. If you
> have digital photos, it is very important that they be high-resolution, at
> least 300 dpi.
>
> I have a list of specific areas to address if you'd like to participate,
> but
> we can handle that off-line.
>
> Please feel free to contact me off-line at:
> cory @ lightspeededit.com (remove the spaces - my anti-spam protection)
> or reply offline to my list email address.
>
> I have a rather short deadline, so if you're able to contact me as soon as
> you're able, I would greatly appreciate it!
>
> Thank you so much!
>
> best,
> Cory Emberson
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tore S. Bristol" <tf51(at)c2i.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Missing PSRU |
Ed.
It is now over a week since I sent you my Florida adress again, so
I guess you have shipped my PSRU now.
Please advice me on details of metod of shipping and times, so I can be
there ready to take delivery
Tore
-- Original Message -----
From: <HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: FEWMustang-List: Fw: Missing PSRU
>
> Tore,
>
> Tell me where to send it, Florida or Norway, and it will ship this week.
>
> I have been extremely busy with the work required setting up the new FEW
> LLC
> business as well as moving the entire shop to the airport. Because of
> this
> workload and some recent changes at the airport, I have not had the
> opportunity to find a suitable location to operate the PSRU test stand.
> It is likely
> that we will be able to carry this work out at the airport but that
> decision
> has yet to be made. If I ship it now, your unit will have to be sent with
> zero
> time on it. I am not comfortable doing this, but it sounds like your
> urgency
> is greater than I anticipated.
>
> I apologize as my current focus has been trying to save FEW and not
> fulfilling my previous commitments.
>
> Again, I can ship your PSRU as soon as you give me the address.
>
> Ed
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tore S. Bristol" <tf51(at)c2i.net> |
Ed,
If it didnt have such a tragic impact on the pace of my project, this would almost
be funny.
On March 2nd. you said in writing you would ship my PSRU that week "as soon as
you had my adress" Which I mailed the same day ( seventh time you said so in 19
months, and also a few times over the phone )
It has been interesting waiting for your reason to cancel this time.
You have completely screwed up the progress of my airplane for over a year, and
you are doing it again. Now you ask me to wait for "a month or so" For how long
do you intend fool me this time?
But at least you came back this time. Guess George has a positive influence on
you.
Capt Bostrom and his friend are still interested in 2 kits, but they are getting
impatient. He wants to come and see my project, but they are particluarly concerned
about the Firewall Fwd. It is hard to explain that I still do no have
my PSRU. He is also sceptical because you stopped comunicating with him.
I am trying to help here, but you are not making it easy.
Thanks for the offer for a mock-up, but for only a month that would be very expensive
with freight to Norway and back plus VAT/duty and so on.
Today is March 10th, and I expect the PSRU to be shipped to FL before April 10th.
You have the adress!!!
If not, you leave me no alternativ. I have a neighbour in the airpark who is a
lawer, and I will consult him to get some action.( also on how to get the money
that was transfered by mistake, and you have promised to return for a year)
I honestly do not understand you Ed, How do you expect to make a go of the FEW
project while screwing your original customers? I think you need to understand
that the homebuilding community is small and close knit, and rumours spread through
the internet at the speed of light.
So I am giving you another month and that is it.That makes it a total of 20+ months.
I am awiting your reply
Tore
----- Original Message -----
From: HMS23TURBO(at)aol.com
To: Tore S. Bristol
Cc: glazik(at)wgn.net
Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2005 5:29 PM
Subject: PSRU
Tore,
I have to sincerely apologize for the lack of communication. I have been preoccuppied
with moving FEW and trying to keep the company alive by forming a new
entity and rounding up investors. I assume that you are aware of what we (Dr.
Lazik and myself) have been trying to do to keep FEW and all of our kits viable.
It doesn't look as if that is going to happen any time soon, so it may be time
to refocus on the PSRU backorders.
George Lazik and I want to reevaluate the testing program for the PSRU. The issues
of liability keep coming up and have both of us very concerned. I feel that
the product that is being produced is indeed very reliable but further testing
and documentation of this work is in order. I want to ask you to allow me
a bit more time to get this end of things in order. I realize that you are at
a critical stage of building and likely at a standstill without a PSRU. I wish
to offer to ship to you an accurate mock-up unit for you to use to complete
the areas that need a PSRU in place. I know that there are many hours of work
on the cowling / spinner / engine mount that can be accomplished with the aid
of a mock PSRU.
Would this suffice for a month or so?
As soon as we have a handle on the testing procedures, I will run your unit through
them. At that time we can then comfortably ship units. Then we can all
sleep at night knowing that we have done things in a prudent manner.
Regards,
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skyrider <skyrider(at)direcway.com> |
NOW.
That is when my FEW TF51 fastbuild kit is available to ship.
NOW.
That is when my engine/PSRU is available. It has 9 hours ground running time
on it.
NOW it is sitting in my workshop ready to put in a crate and ship it to you.
No waiting.
No BS.
No vaporware.
Just make me a reasonable offer.
Daryl Elam
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skyrider <skyrider(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | FEW Kit and engine on Ebay |
Starting Thursday night my FEW TF51 kit and engine with PSRU will go on a
10day auction on Ebay. If you are interested, then great. If not, please
tell anyone else who may be interested in a great deal on a Mustang kit.
Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skyrider <skyrider(at)direcway.com> |
Just to let you know: my Fighter Escort Wings P51 Mustang Kit and engine
with PSRU is at auction on Ebay.com from March 17th through March 27th. You
can find it easily by putting the item number, 4536381334, into any Ebay
search window.
If you are interested in bidding, good luck. If not, then perhaps you know
someone else who may be interested. If you refer someone to the bidding, ask
them to email me before bidding and let me know you referred them. Then if
they win the bidding I'll send you $100 as a referral reward.
Thanks,
Daryl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skyrider <skyrider(at)direcway.com> |
Just to let you know: my Fighter Escort Wings P51 Mustang Kit and engine
with PSRU is at auction on Ebay.com from March 17th through March 27th. You
can find it easily by putting the item number, 4536381334, into any Ebay
search window.
If you are interested in bidding, good luck. If not, then perhaps you know
someone else who may be interested. If you refer someone to the bidding, ask
them to email me before bidding and let me know you referred them. Then if
they win the bidding I'll send you $100 as a referral reward.
Thanks,
Daryl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
I'm ready to fabricate the mounts for the alternator and Woodward prop
govenor. I need sketches and pictures please. Ken Gottschall
________________________________________________________________________________
Ken G.
The fabrication of the alternator and governor brackets is not hard,
but is VERY dependent on what you are using and how you intend to install the
units.
I can and will send you photos of my installation and brackets if you
wish. HOWEVER:
You will require a drive unit for the Woodward. Ed makes the nicest
one out there. If you are going to buy his drive unit, you would be wise to
buy his bracket as well. Then everything will line up, and the drive ratios
will be right.
What alternator are you using, and where are you going to mount it?
I am using a B&C 60 amp alternator which is a new but aircraft modified
Nippon Denso alternator mounted in the upper starboard position. Key here is
getting the drive pulleys of the proper ratio lined up. I found that I needed
a
Long Nosed waterpump
with a 3/8th shim to line up the pulleys and belts.
Thus final dimensions depend on the installation.
Let me know what information might be of use to you. LRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PolymerDesign(at)aol.com |
Hello. I've got a good drive unit for the Woodward that came off of Huey's
plane, but no bracket . I'd like to use the same alternator you are using, so
pictures would be very helpful. Then I can call you if I have any questions.
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [Please Read] Matronics Email Server Upgrade... |
Dear Listers,
I will be upgrading the Matronics Email Server this weekend. This includes
some hardware improvements - more memory, faster, more capable processors -
as well as a complete operating system upgrade from scratch. I hope to
have both the old system and the new system running at the same time to
minimize the actual impact of the upgrade.
Hopefully there will be little actual downtime during the transition, but a
few posts may get lost in the shuffle. If you don't see your post show up
on the List in the normal amount of time (plus a little bit), then please
just try posting it again.
Upgrading the Matronics Email Server operating system (from Redhat Linux
7.2 to Redhat Linux WS 4) is a sizeable undertaking and requires a great
deal of work to port all of the utilities, programs, and scripts over to
the new system. As I've already mentioned, both the old and new systems
will be on line at the same time, so interruption should be held to an
absolute minimal. You might see a couple of odd test messages during the
cut-over or other odd messages; please just ignore them.
I have setup a new System Status Web Page that I will use to update List
Members on the current status of the email and web systems. Please refer
to it as often as you like:
http://www.matronics.com/SystemStatus/
Thank you for your continued support of the List Services at
Matronics! Its your yearly Contributions that make these major upgrades
possible!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [Please Read] Matronics Email Server Upgrade Complete! |
Dear Listers,
The upgrade of the Matronics Email Server can be considered complete at
this time. All known issues related to the upgrade process have been
resolved and email services are running normal. The Nightly Digest
processing has not yet been tested and will wait for tonight's update.
If you encounter any odd behavior with respect to the Matronics Email
Server over the next few days, please contact me via email at
dralle(at)matronics.com or if that fails try dralle(at)speakeasy.net.
Thanks to everyone for being patient through this arduous process of a
major system upgrade!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
At 12:37 PM 4/16/2005 Saturday, Matt Dralle wrote:
>Dear Listers,
>
>I will be upgrading the Matronics Email Server this weekend. This
>includes some hardware improvements - more memory, faster, more capable
>processors - as well as a complete operating system upgrade from
>scratch. I hope to have both the old system and the new system running at
>the same time to minimize the actual impact of the upgrade.
>
>Hopefully there will be little actual downtime during the transition, but
>a few posts may get lost in the shuffle. If you don't see your post show
>up on the List in the normal amount of time (plus a little bit), then
>please just try posting it again.
>
>Upgrading the Matronics Email Server operating system (from Redhat Linux
>7.2 to Redhat Linux WS 4) is a sizeable undertaking and requires a great
>deal of work to port all of the utilities, programs, and scripts over to
>the new system. As I've already mentioned, both the old and new systems
>will be on line at the same time, so interruption should be held to an
>absolute minimal. You might see a couple of odd test messages during the
>cut-over or other odd messages; please just ignore them.
>
>I have setup a new System Status Web Page that I will use to update List
>Members on the current status of the email and web systems. Please refer
>to it as often as you like:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/SystemStatus/
>
>
>Thank you for your continued support of the List Services at
>Matronics! Its your yearly Contributions that make these major upgrades
>possible!
>
>Best regards,
>
>Matt Dralle
>Matronics Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tore S. Bristol" <tf51(at)c2i.net> |
Hello FEW Mustang builders.
I am about to make a tool described in Dennis Turners Mustang Express
Vol 2, Oct 1998.
It is designed by Conrad Boulton.
Has anybody else made it, and how well does it performe?
I have to admit I have problem visualizing how to use it, and therefore to set
the dimentions.
Regards
Tore S Bristol
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tore S. Bristol" <tf51(at)c2i.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: PSRU and money |
----- Original Message -----
From: Tore S. Bristol
Subject: Re: PSRU and money
George,
You must by this time know what is up. The guy is a crook, and he has been lying
to me for 23 months.
I still remember what you said when we met in Nov.; If Ed was not honest, you would
have nothing to do with him and the company?
He still has not been in contact with me, so he is obviously using you as a shield.
As I told you some time ago, I am not taking this laying down.
If I don=B4t have the PSRU in Florida when I get there Aug 3rd, I am taking action.
I am considering going to Oskosh first, and warning everybody about Ed and the
new company.
I will also post messages with all internet sites frequented by homebuilders.
As we say in Norway there is more than one way to skin a cat.
Writing warnings in Sport Aviation, and other publications is something else I
will do to save other honest people from being cheated.
In addition to that I will contact my lawyer neighbour in the airpark about taking
legal action.
I have been extremely patient here, as I thought I would give you a chance to prove
yourself, but things are no better than before.
It is clear that I am being used.
Tore
----- Original Message -----
From: George Lazik
To: 'Tore S. Bristol'
Sent: Monday, July 04, 2005 10:18 PM
Subject: RE: PSRU and money
Tore:
From my side, it's not a charade. I am trying to meet with him and find out
what's up.
George
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-----Original Message-----
From: Tore S. Bristol [mailto:tf51(at)c2i.net]
Sent: Monday, July 04, 2005 11:48 AM
To: George Lazik
Subject: Re: PSRU and money
George,
NEXT WEEK????
Today is monday here in Norway.
How long do you think this charade will go on?
Tore
----- Original Message -----
From: George Lazik
To: 'Tore S. Bristol'
Sent: Monday, July 04, 2005 8:01 PM
Subject: RE: PSRU and money
Tore:
Sorry, I just forgot to get back to you.
In short, I was not able to get together with Ed last week. Whenever I went
there, he was away, having parts painted. Yesterday, I literally passed him
in his car, going in the opposite direction.
I will try for next week.
George
FIGHT BACK AGAINST SPAM!
Download Spam Inspector, the Award Winning Anti-Spam Filter
http://mail.giantcompany.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Tore S. Bristol [mailto:tf51(at)c2i.net]
Sent: Monday, July 04, 2005 10:43 AM
To: George
Subject: Re: PSRU and money
Next day or so?
----- Original Message -----
From: George
To: 'Tore S. Bristol'
Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 12:15 AM
Subject: RE: PSRU and money
Tore:
I know this won't help, but I've also been trying to reach him for the past
four days. Not a good business practice.
Robert Oliver brought his plane down to Camarillo airport, and I then ferried
it over to Santa Paula. I guess he didn't feel comfortable with the short
runway. I respect his decision not to push beyond his comfort level. From
what I understand, Ed has been working hard to get it ready for paint and Oshkosh.
But that still isn't a good reason not to return calls.to you and me.
With respect to your PSRU, the last time I was out at Santa Paula, he told
me that he had gotten the airport to agree to let him set up an engine test
location on the field. I checked and that is true. He now has to install some
anchors in concrete to keep the test stand from flying away. But the engine
that was in the hangar was not yet mounted on the stand, and until it is, he
can't run any tests.
I don't think Ed expects you to walk away, and from all that I've heard,
he does have a PSRU for you. I have never seen it, but then again, I haven't
gone to the rented location where a lot of things are still stored.including some
of my own things which I have been trying to liberate for the past months!!!
And yes, the semester is over. I just hope I don't have to spend it chasing
these types of problems. I will be out at the airport either tomorrow or
the next day and will find out first hand what is happening. I will email you
a report. I promised you I would follow up on your problem, and I will continue
working with you until you obtain satisfaction (which I totally agree with
you that you deserve).
September 03, 2003 - July 05, 2005
FEWMustang-Archive.digest.vol-aa