RV-Archive.digest.vol-fa
July 10, 1998 - July 17, 1998
There is a looooooong thread on this in the archives from last year. I
think you will find alot of opinions and info. FWIW, I think PVC is a
dangerous option since it can shatter, although folks use it. Pressurized
water and air are two different bananas when it comes to a break. You do
not need to use steel, though, since copper is an excellent choice.
Chris Browne
Atlanta
Tail done, -6AQB on the way
jpl(at)showpg.mn.org.showpg.mn.org on 07/09/98 11:24:09 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Plumbing air compressor |
I want to plumb the air from my air compressor. I intend to put the
compressor out in my garage while I work in my basement. It's loud.
This will also give me places to hook up all those things you're
supposed to hook up -- de-water, one line with an oil mister, etc.
I'm wondering about plumbing materials. Do I *have* to use steel pipe,
or could I use PVC? PVC is easier to work with and get tight joints,
but I've always only seen people use steel pipe.
Comments?
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvbldr3170(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Plumbing air compressor |
In a message dated 7/10/98 2:50:44 AM Eastern Daylight Time, donc(at)analogia.com
writes:
<< Short answer - PVC pipe is easier to use, and some people have used it, but
if it ever breaks it can shatter and blasts sharp shards in all directions.
>>
You should NEVER use PVC pipe for compressed air. As a piping contractor, we
aren't even allowed to use compressed air to TEST a PVC system. Water is for
all practical purposes incompressible, so if the a pipe filled with water
breaks the pressure is almost instantaneously dissipated. When a pipe full of
compressed air breaks, there is residual pressure which tends to expel shards
of the broken pipe at a very alarming velocity. i.e. projectiles. Please
don't use PVC pipe for compressed air systems even at low pressures.
Regards, Merle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
| Subject: | Re: Plumbing air compressor |
PVC as is generally available is incapable of holding the pressure in
a compressed air system. Special pressure fittings are available for
use in mains pressure water supply systems and these are suitable but
must be very carefully installed and are more expensive than
*galvanised* steel piping.
A discussion on this point occurred last year so check the files.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RV-List: Plumbing air compressor
Date: 09-07-98 22:24
I want to plumb the air from my air compressor. I intend to put the
compressor out in my garage while I work in my basement. It's loud.
This will also give me places to hook up all those things you're
supposed to hook up -- de-water, one line with an oil mister, etc.
I'm wondering about plumbing materials. Do I *have* to use steel pipe,
or could I use PVC? PVC is easier to work with and get tight joints,
but I've always only seen people use steel pipe.
Comments?
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
| Subject: | Plumbing air compressor |
An alternative could be 1/2" or 3/4" nylon tube or polyethylene tubing with
appropriate fittings.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-List: Plumbing air compressor
Date: 09-07-98 23:21
Short answer - PVC pipe is easier to use, and some people have used it, but
if it ever breaks it can shatter and blasts sharp shards in all directions.
(Air is different than water in this case - compressed air will keep
accelerating the shards after the pipe is broken, water is not elastic, so
it doesn't have the same danger.)
Not to change the subject, but I was at the EAA show in Arlington today and
saw the guys from Van's. Now I've gotta schedule one of those $30K free
rides....
--
Don Corbitt, donc(at)analogia.com
>
>I want to plumb the air from my air compressor. I intend to put the
>compressor out in my garage while I work in my basement. It's loud.
>This will also give me places to hook up all those things you're
>supposed to hook up -- de-water, one line with an oil mister, etc.
>
>I'm wondering about plumbing materials. Do I *have* to use steel pipe,
>or could I use PVC? PVC is easier to work with and get tight joints,
>but I've always only seen people use steel pipe.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Plumbing air compressor |
JOE,
pvc works fine, i ran about 200' of it with about 6 places to hook up my
hoses, 3 years ago and still no problems
scott
winging it in tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Plumbing air compressor |
joe
i forgot to mention i used schedule forty and run a sand blaster set at 125
psi, no trouble yet
scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MartyRV6A" <emrath(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim cable cover on left elevator |
OK, but how about putting the ring in a glass 2 quart measuring cup and
microwave it to melt, like butter?
I'm sure the listeners don't "mind your own beeswax".
-----Original Message-----
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Date: Thursday, July 09, 1998 6:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Trim cable cover on left elevator
>
>Listers,
>Go to your local Hardware or home store and buy a toilet bowl setting ring.
>It's the ring used under the tiolet bowl to secure and seal it to the
>plumbing under the floor. .............Next melt the ring wax in a can with
>a propane tourch and pour it into the empty deoderant cases.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MartyRV6A" <emrath(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim tab cover nutplates |
Yup!, my dad said to use the left overs of an old table candle, but that
was in days that we used dinner candles around the house.
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott A. Jordan <SAJ_SLJ(at)compuserve.com>
Date: Wednesday, July 08, 1998 8:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: Trim tab cover nutplates
>
>Message text written by INTERNET:rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>I feel better now and I'm going for the Boelube.<
>
>Long ago, my father taught me to put a little soap (Ivory seemed to be the
>soap of choice) on a screw before inserting it. Also works on saw blades
>and drill bits. It is amazing how close to Boelube it is (Boelube = Ivory
>soap?). Soap is much cheaper and readily available at the corner store.
>A fellow builder now asks "pass the soap" even when he is using Boelube.
>
>Scott A. Jordan
>80331
>Wing skeleton ready for priming when the rain stops
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
ETAsAhRh0YIxnUnngCWUg9GcJ8qqtStcvQIUGukFR5HXzfKsOJh+xfweoBFs8Xc=
| From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 weights |
Who cares? Do you really think that you are going to pull (push?) -6
G's?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: The Mecca of engines!-Proud |
In a message dated 7/10/98 1:08:52 AM Eastern Daylight Time, JRWillJR(at)aol.com
writes:
> You know, Why wouldn't someone buy a used certified engine with all logs and
a
> clean bill of health off a homebuilt that was---say--damaged by weather
beyond
> repair--and hang it on the "family 172"? There is this misguided and untrue
> perception among some people that Amateur Built/ Experimental is some
lesser
> form of aviation practiced by weirdos and I resent that--I am the same A&P
> that might be maintaining that "family 172" and there are plenty of non-A&P
> RV's out there I would be proud to claim as my own--in fact I wish I were
that
> good. Proud to be a Homebuilder--WE are the MAINSTREAM ---- not the fringe
> and do not let them forget that. JR
Of course, we know better, but Joe Pilot who has been flying nothing but spam
thinks that we are lunatics. They don't understand why were so nutty about
our hobby and our aircraft. They think that were all going to auger-in.
There scared to death of us.
Most (not all) of these guys only know how to get from point A to B...hope
that GPS doesn't fail. When you start talking to them about real flying (not
just acro, but truly being the master of the machine and understanding how and
why aircraft fly) their eyes glaze over and they politely excuse themselves
from the conversation. Those who stay are true believers and have either
built an aircraft or they will one day.
So why don't I think Joe Pilot will not buy an engine from an experimental?
Because they think if the aircraft wasn't built buy one of the big three that
the aircraft is somehow inferior. I'm not insulted by this, in fact I'm
amused by it. My life revolves around aviation. I have two brothers who fly,
almost everybody I work with are pilots, and the friends I socialize with are
aircraft builders or enthusiasts. With the exception of my friends, no other
pilot I know understands why we build aircraft (they think we do it because
we're too cheep to buy a Cessna) and our love of flying in general.
Hey, different strokes for different folks. Some pilots just want to fly from
A to B and they are quite happy. Some are always is search of that perfect
flight. Some want to tear-up the sky doing acro. Some just want to show
everybody how much money they have.
I think that homebuilders have a bit of all of the above in us. I think we
tend to be better pilots than the rest of the population. I think that we are
always trying to learn something new and improve upon what we already know.
Pat yourself on the back...I just did.
We have all to some degree dedicated our lives to our hobby. BTW, I hate that
word hobby because it implies that we do not have a professional attitude
towards out craft, we do! Come to think of it, we are lunatics.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim cable cover on left elevator |
Sam,
I forgot to add, "remove the deoderant labels and don't store in your
bathroom!". Al
>
>Al Mojzisik wrote:
>>
>>
>> Listers,
>> Go to your local Hardware or home store and buy a toilet bowl setting ring.
>> It's the ring used under the tiolet bowl to secure and seal it to the
>> plumbing under the floor. They cost all of about .99 cents. They are made
>> up of about 3 cups of bees wax. Now save your next three or four empty
>> stick deoderant cases or have your friends save theirs. (If you have any
>> friends and you don't use deoderant.) Next melt the ring wax in a can with
>> a propane tourch and pour it into the empty deoderant cases. When they cool
>> you can turn up more wax stick as you need it. Been doing it for
>> years..... Al
>
>But it sure does make your armpits sticky......
>
>Sam Buchanan (think I have been up too long....)
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <michaelt(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Plumbing air compressor |
News-Software: UReply 3.1
In a previous message, it was written:
>
>I want to plumb the air from my air compressor. I intend to put the
>compressor out in my garage while I work in my basement. It's loud.
>This will also give me places to hook up all those things you're
>supposed to hook up -- de-water, one line with an oil mister, etc.
>
>I'm wondering about plumbing materials. Do I *have* to use steel pipe,
>or could I use PVC? PVC is easier to work with and get tight joints,
>but I've always only seen people use steel pipe.
Joe, as has been mentioned you can glean a lot from the archives. I
researched it not long ago - just started my emp, closing the HS as
we speak.
I ran PVC from the compressor to a valve so I can cut the air off from
the rest of the system - that addresses the leakage from connections and
terminators which is a real problem, as I have learned when I forgot to
turn the valve at the end of a work session. Then, to give a token nod to
the concerns of "exploding" PVC (you'll find a 50/50 split on this when
you do the research), I wrapped each length of PVC with duct tape
figuring if the PVC does split from the pressure (it won't "explode"
unless it has become brittle from age or UV exposure - my installation
is in my garage, and I fully intend to have the project done in a
couple of years :) ) then the pieces will be contained by the tape (my
theory).
I ran from the compressor to the valve to a filter/water trap to an
unregulated outlet to the regulator to a regulated, non-olied outlet
to an oiler then split to the overhead where I ran a line to over the jig,
and to an outlet right at post-oiler.
Don't use an oiler. Unless you get one where you can regulate the amount
of oil delivered to the system (I can't see where mine would), a $30 oiler
like you would get at Home Depot delivers way too much oil. I emptied
the thing and just add drops to the tools as most people do. Now I
know why, but it was never written about. Maybe there are some things
one is expected to know about this business, but hell I'm a programmer
and cabinet maker. I knew nothing about metal working and the tools
used.
BTW, use teflon tape on those PVC connections.
Have fun!
- Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 emp, closing HS
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Plumbing air compressor |
<< Do I *have* to use steel pipe,
or could I use PVC? >>
There's been lots of discussion on this on either the woodworking or
metalworking newsgroups. Try a search with Dejanews. But to summerize, many
people use pvc, a few have had it burst and send plastic fragments around.
For this reason some are strongly against pvc. Steel threaded pipe is a
pain, but copper isn't too bad to work with. I've had a pvc system installed
at work for 25 years without problems. However, I only run 45 psi (that's all
I need for my application). If I ever get around to doing my shop I'll use
the copper.
Tom De Winter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Chernich" <Ron_Chernich(at)clmt.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim cable cover on left elevator |
I'd be a bit cautious about using soap. This was a trick my dad taught me
long. long ago for wood screws. Worked fine for that too, but they hava a
tendency to rust while the ones put in "dry" don't. Now that may be
something to do with the moisture in wood interacting with the soap, but
it's not something I'd risk where my soft body is concerned.
Ron Chernich (Portland, OR)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Hyde <hyde(at)bcl.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Plumbing air compressor |
SNIP
>
>I'm wondering about plumbing materials. Do I *have* to use steel pipe,
>or could I use PVC? PVC is easier to work with and get tight joints,
>but I've always only seen people use steel pipe.
>
SNIP
I wondered the same thing and asked around, but nobody seemed to know why
they use steel pipe. My best guess is fire safety. If you have a fire and
there is pressure in your tank and lines, then if the pipe burns through it
will fan the flames.
I gave up trying to figure it out, and did the simplest thing -- I used the
PVC. I always turn off the compressor, and feel pretty OK, since it has a
built-in warning device if I forget. There are enough leaks in the
fittings and hoses, etc. that the compressor cycles on every couple of
hours, and the garage where the compressor sits is right under my
bedroom... The wife gets mad because it wakes her up too, but it works.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <michaelt(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Plumbing air compressor |
News-Software: UReply 3.1
In a previous message, it was written:
>
>built-in warning device if I forget. There are enough leaks in the
>fittings and hoses, etc. that the compressor cycles on every couple of
>hours, and the garage where the compressor sits is right under my
>bedroom... The wife gets mad because it wakes her up too, but it works.
-----------------------------------------
:) This is exactly what I was refering to when I mentioned leaving
the air valve open. I don't turn off the compressor - just isolate all
those leaks. For me it usually cycles on about the time I'm in the
shower :\
- Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 emp, closing HS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chat Daniel" <cdaniel(at)fnbbaldwin.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 weights |
Larry,
Just checked my manual again to verify the +6/-3 figure I mentioned
earlier, and I noticed that it referred these limits as applying to not
only the -8 but the -3, -4, -6, and -6A as well. I can't explain the
discrepency, but I am fairly sure the +6/-3 number is correct for all RV's
Chat Daniel
RV-8 N678RV (reserved)
----------
> From: n5lp <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 weights
> Date: Thursday, July 09, 1998 12:55 PM
>
>
> >
> >
> >The -8 like all RVs has a design strength of 6 possitive and 3 negative
> >G's. These numbers always have a 50% safety factor built in so the
> >"ultimate" ( when things start falling off) limits are 9 possitive and
4.5
> >negative G's.
> >
> >Chat Daniel
> >RV8 N678RV (reserved)
>
> I continually read the RV's limit load factor is 6 positive and 3
> negative. I have seen it on the list many times, the RAH newsgroups many
> times and Scott McDaniels quoted those very figures yesterday.
>
> From builders manual page 15-21 (RV-6) under G-Load Testing:
>
> "The RV-6 structure has been designed to withstand aerobatic design loads
> of plus and minus 6 Gs at an aerobatic gross wt. of 1375 lbs."
>
> From my Van's brochure under Aerobatics:
>
> "The RVs have a design stress limit of plus & minus 6 Gs at aerobatic
> gross weights:"
>
>
> So, my question. Where is this minus 3 stuff coming from?
>
>
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> Pacer N8025D
> RV-6Q N441LP Reserved
>
> Fitting Flaps to Fuselage
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WoodardRod(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Wing Kit For Sale |
In a message dated 7/9/98 11:08:10 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
seaok71302(at)Juno.com writes:
> HUMMMMM.... sounds like a future regional airline pilot.... I can make
> that statement because I've been there too... One of the few US
> industries who have figured out how to pay less than minimum wage when
> you consider hours of duty vs total pay. OR,... you are moving to the
>
Actually, I'd love it if I could start at the regional airline level. :-) More
likely, given my 800TT and 15ME, it'll take me a year or more to accumulate
enough hours to fly a Beech 1900 for a commuter. Still a better option than
what I'm doing now, IMHO.
Somebody buy my kit so I can get on with it! :-)
Rod Woodard
Loveland, Colorado
WoodardRod(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "robert dziewiontkoski" <DZflyer(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Soapy screws - was Trim cable cover on left elevator |
If you plan to lubricate screws, etc, - use beeswax instead of soap. Most
soaps include chemicals to attract water.
-----Original Message-----
From: Hal Kempthorne <halk(at)sybase.com>
Date: Thursday, July 09, 1998 7:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Soapy screws - was Trim cable cover on left elevator
>
>Hi,
>
>George Stanley says beeswax works. I would guess it would be less
corrosive
>than soap. Some soaps corrode aluminum tho not steel.
>
>hal
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6160hp(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | H2AD Mag swap to single question |
I've got a H2AD motor and wish to swap out this mag system to an electronic
flywheel driven system for one set of plugs and a single mag for the other.
The double mag is big and I understand there is a single mag unit that will
fit in this hole taking up much less space. Any ideas out there? Any stabs
at the value of the double mag system fairly new on 1 and rebuilt on the other
side?
Thanks Dave McManmon RV6 Cicero NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Larson <jpl(at)showpg.mn.org.showpg.mn.org> |
| Subject: | PVC plumbing of air compressor |
This group is great! I got *dozens* of responses to my initial query.
Some people expressed concerns with potential harm a blow-out can cause
with shrapnel. And a number of people stated they were using PVC themselves
either in their shops or places of business.
Thanks for your responses.
I'm going to let it stew overnight and work on it this weekend.
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 weights |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>I continually read the RV's limit load factor is 6 positive and 3
>negative. I have seen it on the list many times, the RAH newsgroups
>many
>times and Scott McDaniels quoted those very figures yesterday.
>
>>From builders manual page 15-21 (RV-6) under G-Load Testing:
>
>"The RV-6 structure has been designed to withstand aerobatic design
>loads
>of plus and minus 6 Gs at an aerobatic gross wt. of 1375 lbs."
>
>>From my Van's brochure under Aerobatics:
>
>"The RVs have a design stress limit of plus & minus 6 Gs at aerobatic
>gross weights:"
>
>
>So, my question. Where is this minus 3 stuff coming from?
>
>
I guess this could be a little confusing (if it mattered much).
Regardless, all of the manuals and literature should have the same info
on them.
I believe the reason we have been quoting +6 and - 3 is that some people
may take that far too seriously and plan to go out and do - 6 G's. This
is not really what an RV was designed for. If you want that kind of
airplane - buy an Extra or similar.
This was originally quoted because the main structure and wing spar are
designed for + & - 6 G's, but would you go out and push
- 6 G's using the single latch seat belts that we sell for the RV kits?
This is only one of many reasons to be a little more conservative in
quoting G loads.
Everyone send mail to Ken Scott and tell him to get with updating all of
the info so that it matches :) (he'll love me for that one)
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Howard Williamson <skybolt(at)mail.erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plumbing air compressor |
Joe Larson wrote:
>
>
> I want to plumb the air from my air compressor. I intend to put the
> compressor out in my garage while I work in my basement. It's loud.
> This will also give me places to hook up all those things you're
> supposed to hook up -- de-water, one line with an oil mister, etc.
>
> I'm wondering about plumbing materials. Do I *have* to use steel pipe,
> or could I use PVC? PVC is easier to work with and get tight joints,
> but I've always only seen people use steel pipe.
>
> Comments?
>
> -Joe
>
Joe:
I simply ran an air hose from my garage-located compressor to the
basement. I then attached it to a good filter with moisture drain. I
installed a dual outlet brass fitting on the filter which allows me to
operate two pneumatic tools (drill and rivet gun). The installation
works great and allows me to move things around if I desire to do so.
Howard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The Mecca of engines!-Proud |
>Of course, we know better, but Joe Pilot who has been flying nothing but spam
>thinks that we are lunatics.
There is a lot of truth in that statement.
While visiting a rural airport in my RV-6 recently, upon learning that my
airplane was an RV replied "They're having a lot of trouble with them RV's
aren't they?" After a little questioning, I learned that he based his
question upon hearing about an RV-4 accident a few days earlier.
There is this perception among 'spam can drivers' that we are a fringe
group. We need to spend more time educating people. Maybe we need to make
up some 3x5 or 5x7 cards to carry with us, extolling the virues of sport
aviation, and give them out freely to anyone who seems interested in our
airplanes.
>I think we tend to be better pilots than the rest of the population.
>I think that we are always trying to learn something new and improve
>upon what we already know.
I don't know about 'better', but we certainly more 'holistic' than the guy
knows nothing about his Cessna except how to fly it.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
RV-6 sn 23744 N601DB
Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: throttle/mixture and prop governor brackets |
>Whew! It would have probably been easier, quicker, and certainly cheaper,
>to have started out and custom made the brackets to fit whatever stock
>cables are availbalbe. But then, I wouldn't have gained all the education
>and recreation that this experimenting is all about, would I?
And a tip for those planning on using the Cablecraft cables. They are far
to 'friction free' without the friction lock. All my controls (Throttle,
Prop, and Mixture) are vernier. The throttle has a friction lock, but the
prop and mixture control do not.
In flight, both the prop and mixture control creep. I called Cablecraft,
and the guy there commented that it is a common problem. He joked that
their cables were just 'too good'. In the next few weeks, while my RV-6 is
down for installing gear leg fairings, I'll install new cables with the
friction lock.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744 N601DB
Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Bristol" <bbristol(at)intranet.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: H2AD Mag swap to single question |
-----Original Message-----
From: RV6160hp(at)AOL.COM <RV6160hp(at)AOL.COM>
Date: Friday, July 10, 1998 8:30 PM
Subject: RV-List: H2AD Mag swap to single question
>
>I've got a H2AD motor and wish to swap out this mag system to an electronic
>flywheel driven system for one set of plugs and a single mag for the other.
I am also flying with an 0320H2AD and asked the same questions at Sun And
Fun. Fortunately I found the answer I wanted from ELECTROAIR DIRECT IGNITION
SYSTEM. They have a system in use for our engines. If I remember correctly
the price quoted was $785, and the flyer they gave me seems to verify that
price. However to obtain more info the flyer says to call Jeff Rose at
423-622-8825, Chattanooga TN.
hope this is of some use to you.
Bob Bristol RV6A C-GCTZ 8 hours bbristol(at)intranet.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plumbing air compressor |
I used sched. 40 plastic with up to 130 psi. No problems so
far. If you want to run pipe down hill around your walls to get
rid of water in lines, you need metal pipe. Water won't
condensate well in plastic.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 weights |
<< but would you go out and push
- 6 G's using the single latch seat belts that we sell for the RV kits?
>>
NO, but many folks might keep that in mind when building the airplane and
purchasing their system of restraints.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 weights |
The guy just asked an honest question and hoped for an honest
answer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Foam for seat cushions |
Need guidance on where to buy foam for seat cushions...Can't recall name of
foam similiar to Temperfoam but lot less in price and where to get it....Would
appreciate help....Thanks--Jim Brown, NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ron calhoun <roncal(at)flash.net> |
Listers: Anyone have a 4 canopy and frame they would like to sell?
Please e-mail me off list if you can help.
Ron Calhoun
Palestine, Tx
RV-4 Installing engine, instruments
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another RV-8 Takes to the Air |
Dear Wallace,
I was very happy to hear about Charlie Douma's RV8 flying. I am building
an RV8 and should have it flying this fall or winter. I and others would
be interested in some statistics such as: EW, prop type and model, cruise
speed, any info relating to interesting construction ideas or speed mods
etc.
Thank you.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
80124 Airframe essentially complete, installing innards, received engine
yesterday
----------
> From: Wallace R. Penney <wallyp(at)interlog.com>
> To: 'RV-List'
> Subject: RV-List: Another RV-8 Takes to the Air
> Date: Thursday, June 18, 1998 9:31 PM
>
>
> This is just a note to say that Charlie Douma's brand new RV-8, CG-CSQ,
took to the air for the first time tonight from Brampton Flying Club, just
outside Toronto. This is Charlie's third RV, having already built an RV-4
followed by an RV-3. Charlie reported that the plane was a delight to fly
and that everything worked well in this IO-360 powered machine. Doug
Buchanon flew chase in his RV-4 and his son Todd took lots of video from
the back seat. Charlie's 8 joins four RV-3's, two RV-4's and three RV-6's
(under construction) at BFC.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Plumbing air compressor |
>
>I want to plumb the air from my air compressor. I intend to put the
>compressor out in my garage while I work in my basement. It's loud.
Joe, spent an extra $ or so and a little more time for installation and use
COPPER piping. It is SAFE and permament
About 8 months ago I posed the same question, and I am satisfied to decided
to use copper.
Lothar
Lothar ||-6A|| Denver, CO || Ready to jig fuselage||
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald Blum" <fly-in-home(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Proud Builders |
>>Of course, we know better, but Joe Pilot who has been flying nothing but
spam
>>thinks that we are lunatics.
>
Isn't being called a 'lunatic homebuilder' the same as us calling them 'spam
drivers'? Let's raise the level or big bro (FAA) is going to take all of
our toys away. Personally, I judge pilots by how they fly; there are
lunatics, drivers and great pilots in both areas. As a matter of fact, two
pilots I consider elite are Bob Hoover and Duane Cole . . . great routines .
. . . in production aircraft. I can but practice the rest of my life to
hope to some day be that good.
>We need to spend more time educating people. Maybe we need to make
>up some 3x5 or 5x7 cards to carry with us, extolling the virues of sport
>aviation, and give them out freely to anyone who seems interested in our
>airplanes.
>
Amen. Walk a mile in my shoes. . . . . . . . . . .
>>I think we tend to be better pilots than the rest of the population.
>>I think that we are always trying to learn something new and improve
>>upon what we already know.
>
As with all, you get out of something what you put into it. There are some
pilots/builders I wouldn't fly within a sectional of (both X and production
a/c). On the other side, I have felt comfortable putting my life in the
hands of others. As a good example, Wichita recently held the International
C180/185 "Homecoming" Convention. One of the mornings, they had a "fly-out"
from the big airport to our quaint, little 2000' grass strip for a "fly-in
breakfast". Of the 43 airplanes that braved the 25 knot direct crosswind
curling over the tops of our houses and trees (Welcome to Kansas folks. . .
. and. . . . sometimes a 'no-go' decision is a sign of a good pilot), all
made it in. Some took more than one try, some used the full runway and yet
others used the first quarter. Same airplane; different skill levels.
Most homebuilt accidents happen in the first 10 hours (lots of building
hours logged and not enough flight time). Practice, practice, practice.
I'll never get perfect no matter how long or often I practice, but pilots
that want to get old continue to practice, practice, practice which WILL
some day change the 'lunatic' perception. Maybe someday we'll be known as
'sport aircraft pilots', and they'll be known as 'bus drivers'.
FLY-IN-HOME,
Ron
ps. Any way to NOT archive this, as it is really not RV related?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Nippondenso alternator (model, modifications) |
I'm well in to my "attach stuff to the firewall" phase, and it occurs to me that
I've
never solved the alternator problem. I need 60 amps or so, but I'm not quite
willing to part with the amount of money B&C want for their alternator. I have
Van's regulator and "Aeroelectric" Bob's o.v. protection circuit.
I've received a lot of advice in the past telling me to get a Nippondenso
alternator and have it modified ("B" circuit, I was told) for external regulator.
Can anybody tell me a specific model number or part number of 60 amp
alternator that you've had good luck modifying for external regulator and
attaching to a Lycoming? Does anybody know the model of Nippondenso
alternator that B&C uses?
(FWIW, I have an O-360 A1A from Van's)
Thanks,
Tim
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 on gear, engine mounted
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelli Lewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Linear amplifier |
My com radio doesn't seem to reach as far as I would like it to. I have the
belly-mounted bent antenna and maybe that is part of the problem. My
question: I have seen linear amplifiers for one watt hand-held radios. Would
they work for 5-7 watt panel mount? Should I look elsewhere for a solution?
I'm sure a straight antenna or a top-mounted antenna would work better
(don't want one there). The bent one has an S/W of 3.0 where the straight is
less than 2. Is there a linear amp made or buildable for the panel mounts?
Just wondering.............
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
WHAT????
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Foam for seat cushions |
Call Becky Orndorff...very nice work, and reasonably priced...plus they are
cut for the RV's
Paul Besing
>
>Need guidance on where to buy foam for seat cushions...Can't recall name of
>foam similiar to Temperfoam but lot less in price and where to get it....Would
>appreciate help....Thanks--Jim Brown, NJ
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 weights |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>
><< but would you go out and push
> - 6 G's using the single latch seat belts that we sell for the RV
>kits?
> >>
>NO, but many folks might keep that in mind when building the airplane
>and
>purchasing their system of restraints.
>
>
>
That's good! Because I personally think it would be foolish to purposely
execute "any" neg. G maneuvers without additional restraints. It's a
requirement in any aerobatic competition (though some pilots have gotten
by the inspection for sportsman because no neg manuvers are performed.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Hyde <hyde(at)bcl.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Linear amplifier |
3.0 sounds like a pretty lousy SWR. You should be able to improve that by
trimming the length of the antenna whatever shape it is, though if you know
to measure SWR you probably know that already...
Are you sure you've got a good connection between the ground plane (skin)
and the cable shield at the antenna?
SNIP
>The bent one has an S/W of 3.0 where the straight is
>less than 2. Is there a linear amp made or buildable for the panel mounts?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Blake Harral <bharral(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Linear amplifier |
> My com radio doesn't seem to reach as far as I would like it to ...
> Is there a linear amp made or buildable for the panel mounts?
>
> Just wondering.............
>
> Michael
> RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
I won't bore you with the technical details, but if your radio
is really capable of 5 watts power, that should be more than
adequate for the needs of a typical light plane. You could
probably quadruple the power output without being able to tell
the difference, unless you had special measuring equipment.
Your antenna installation will be the dominant factor. If
the installation is not properly done, your transmitter
might be putting only a very small portion of 5 watts into
the antenna (the SWR of 3 indicates a mismatch between the
transmitter and the antenna, which will reduce the effective
radiated power of your setup). Also, the bottom of a plane
does not seem to be a optimal location for a comm antenna,
particulary when the plane is on the ground.
So, forget the amplifier (adds weight, sucks power, and more
likely to interfere with other onboard electronics) and clean up that
antenna installation.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Linear amplifier |
Mike,
I think you can make a phone call to Amateur Wholesale Electronics - they have
several locations, ( I just dumped there catolog ) but the sales staff would
be able to tel you if they manufacture such an animal. AM Amp.5 to 20 watts in
50 watts out or better.
However this is not gonna solve your problem, because your SWR is too high.
Try matching the Antena better, Find out what part of the band your SWR is
low, and you may have to trim the antena or get a longer one. Find a local
Ham Operator, this should be a walk in the park for him, and knowing most
Ham's thewould be glad to help, and will have a good SWR Meter to do the
measuring - a BIRD METER
or Equal. 1.5 to 1 or lower would be where I would be shooting for. 3 to 1 is
unacceptable, If the SWR gets in line you should see a large diffrence in you
com.
both Trans & Rec.
BSivori(at)AOL.COM
KB2DU
N929RV ( Reserved )
Closing Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Plumbing air compressor |
| From: | rvpilot(at)Juno.com (William R. Davis Jr) |
Joe,
My compressor is located about 25 ft. from my shop in a garden shed. The
pipe from the shed to the shop is underground and is PVC as is all of the
piping in the shop. this setup has been there for over ten years and has
given no trouble. Naturally, you want to use the heaviest wall PVC that
that is available.
Regards, Bill, N66WD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Linear amplifier |
>However this is not gonna solve your problem, because your SWR is too high.
>Try matching the Antena better, Find out what part of the band your SWR is
>low, and you may have to trim the antena or get a longer one. Find a local
>Ham Operator, this should be a walk in the park for him, and knowing most
>Ham's thewould be glad to help, and will have a good SWR Meter to do the
>measuring - a BIRD METER
>or Equal. 1.5 to 1 or lower would be where I would be shooting for. 3 to
1 is
>unacceptable, If the SWR gets in line you should see a large diffrence in
you
>com.
>both Trans & Rec.
I have an antenna analyzer for rent which can be seen
at <http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/catalog.html>
This is a self contained signal generator, antenna
impedance meter that shows resistand and SWR and a
frequency counter for announcing the signal generator's
frequency.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MLaboyteau(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Nippondenso alternator (model, modifications) |
<< Can anybody tell me a specific model number or part number of 60 amp
alternator that you've had good luck modifying for external regulator and
attaching to a Lycoming? >>
Tim & Others,
I bought a used alternator from a salvage yard, that came off of an '89
Mazda 323. I don't have the exact part #, but I do know that it says
"Mitsubishi" on it. I modified it to use an external regulator, and I'm using
the one from B&C. What you have to do is disassemble the alternator and
disable the internal regulator by unsoldering and removing the small diode
ass'y that provides power for the internal regulator. Then I used some de-
soldering braid and jumpered one brush to ground and the other brush to one of
the spade terminals on the external connector. This is what becomes the field
connection from the regulator. Another local builder is wanting to do this,
and I'm considering photographing the procedure to make up a web page to help
other builders make the mods themselves. I paid $40 for the alternator from
the salvage yard. I bought the mounting bracket kit from Van's, and the
alternator fit, but I did have to make a small adjustment to the bolt holes
for the bolts that go into the crakcase. One day before I had learned all of
the procedures for getting my fuel injected engine to start, I was afraid of
flooding it when it was cold and didn't prime it enough, I had cranked and
cranked on it before I finally clued in that it needed more prime. So when it
finally started, I turned on my RMI micromonitor and it showed 60 amp charge
rate! it quickly backed off as the battery re-charged, but just goes to show
that this thing really will put out 60 amps+ when required.
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV "The Silver Streak!"
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
Broken Arrow, Ok
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Starter and Master Relay Orientation |
Listers,
I've looked at the threads in the archives, and am still a bit unsure about this
one. It seems to me that I should mount the relays (bought from Van's) with
the main terminals vertical. That means the end cap on each relay (and the
contactor direction of travel, I assume) would point face sideways, minimizing
the impact of + and - G loads on the contactor. Correct?
Thanks,
Tim
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 on gear, engine mounted
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Antenna Location |
| From: | fitton(at)Juno.com (Robert D Fitton) |
In the posts regarding Linear Amplifiers, the comment was made that the
belly of the airplane is not the best location for the com antenna
particularly when still on the ground. I suppose that is because the
aircraft may be between the receive antenna and the broadcast antenna.
However, in flight, there should never be anything shadowing the ship's
antenna from those on the ground unless, of course, you're inverted.
Probably don't communicate much then.
I'm about to install my com antenna and was going to put in on the belly.
I'd appreciate any competent guidance on this issue.
Bob
RV-4 Wiring the panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Fasching" <jfasching(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Foam for seat cushions |
Temperfoam, three different densities, purchased from the folks in
Lincoln NE (I believe) are GREAT !!! they have an ad in SA each month.
A bit "high" but worth every cent!! Been using them for over a year and
wouldn't part with them.
RV-6A flying 3yrs, CO mountains
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Fasching" <jfasching(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Comm Antenna Location |
Having worked with the FAA for years in electronics in towers, centers,
RAPCONS, RCO's etc, etc, I would never put a comm antenna on a metal
airplane anywhere BUT on the bottom....why shadow the ground station
with a big hunk of metal? Most all transponder problems involve aircraft
shadowing the antenna....unless you plan to fly underground, the belly
is the place.
Also a note regarding linear amplifiers; a comment was made the the
transmitter must be matched to the antenna; not completely the case. It
is the characteristic impeadance of the coaxial cable that must be
matched to the input impedance of the antenna. The practice of trimming
the feed line until the SWR is low is valid, but is only an expediant
way of compensating for an inherent mismatch. I agree, tho' that a VSWR
of 3:1 is excessive.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna Location |
It depends on both the plane and how you use it.
If you fly light planes out of controlled airports with ground control
you need an antenna on the top of the plane.
If all you do is talk to ground stations (and not other aircraft) from
the air you could use an antenna on the bottom of the plane.
Note: Fixed gear installations interfere with the antennas so on an RV
a mount on the underside may not be a good idea. You will note that
most aircraft with antennas on the bottom are retractables for this
reason.
The alternative is to fit both with either a splitter or two com
radios.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RV-List: Antenna Location
Date: 11-07-98 10:07
In the posts regarding Linear Amplifiers, the comment was made that the
belly of the airplane is not the best location for the com antenna
particularly when still on the ground. I suppose that is because the
aircraft may be between the receive antenna and the broadcast antenna.
However, in flight, there should never be anything shadowing the ship's
antenna from those on the ground unless, of course, you're inverted.
Probably don't communicate much then.
I'm about to install my com antenna and was going to put in on the belly.
I'd appreciate any competent guidance on this issue.
Bob
RV-4 Wiring the panel
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Newsflash
Subject: This Just In (Polish Air Disaster)
Polish Air Disaster
A small two-seater Cessna 152 plane crashed into a cemetery early this
afternoon in central Poland. Polish
search and rescue workers have recovered 300 bodies
so far and expect that number to
climb as digging continues into the evening
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Hiers <craig-RV4(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna Location |
Robert D Fitton wrote:
>
>
> In the posts regarding Linear Amplifiers, the comment was made that the
> belly of the airplane is not the best location for the com antenna
> particularly when still on the ground. I suppose that is because the
> aircraft may be between the receive antenna and the broadcast antenna.
> However, in flight, there should never be anything shadowing the ship's
> antenna from those on the ground unless, of course, you're inverted.
> Probably don't communicate much then.
>
> I'm about to install my com antenna and was going to put in on the belly.
> I'd appreciate any competent guidance on this issue.
>
> Bob
> RV-4 Wiring the panel
>
I put mine on the belly just because so many others have.
I figure if there is a problem they would be on top.
Now, if I could just figure out how to wire the damn radio.
Craig Hiers
Tallahassee,FL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Hiers <craig-RV4(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | wiring rear nav light |
Listers
I'm running the wire for the rear nav light. Where on the rear
bulkhead/vertical spar do I make the exit hole, and what protection
should I use on the wire to keep it from breaking, chafing etc?
On my next RV I will put all the lights in the wingtip, this rudder
light stuff in a pain.
Craig Hiers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Foam for seat cushions |
The only problem with temper foam is when
its cold outside, the foam gets harder than a rock.
RVer273sb Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Foam for seat cushions |
The only problem with temper foam is when
its cold outside, the foam gets harder than a rock.
RVer273sb Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: wiring rear nav light |
craig,
it's not so bad, if you look at it close enough you see there is plenty of
place to exit wiring on top of the horn, i had to extend the wires and used
heat shrink to protect it from chaffing, also i put a disconnect plug (
female ) so if i have to remove the rudder all i have to do is disconnect the
plug instead of cutting the wire
good luck]
scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Kachmar" <tkachmar(at)ibm.net> |
| Subject: | Vision Microsystems |
Does anyone have any experience with the "all in one" VM-1000 engine monitor
system or their fuel indicating system? Looks easy to install (one big hole)
and not much panel space required. Called them and got some literature(no
web site and took a month to get the info after 2 calls). They seemed
disorganized. Van's has them in the prototypes so must have some redeeming
value!
I'm also wondering about pitot tube/static source stuff. Again on a first
look it seems easier to have an all in one unit. Don't want some cheesy
looking tube hanging in the slipstream. Some of my RV6 buddies said to be
careful on mounting the pitot cause the tie-down ropes could
interfere-hit-the pitot tube. I'm not that far yet. Don't even remember
seeing any info on pitot mounting in the plans-other than some discussion in
tubing in the wing. Probably haven't looked hard enough.
Had strobe questions but the list cleared that up over the last week or so.
Thanks...
Any suggestions or help would be appreciated on either subject.
Tom Kachmar
RV8 50508 Wings in the jig - ribs and spars riveted
Keller, TX Hotter than hell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "robert dziewiontkoski" <DZflyer(at)email.msn.com> |
I'm glad you think it's funny
-----Original Message-----
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Date: Saturday, July 11, 1998 6:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: a funny
>
> Subject: Newsflash
>
>
> Subject: This Just In (Polish Air Disaster)
>
> Polish Air Disaster
> A small two-seater Cessna 152 plane crashed into a cemetery early this
> afternoon in central Poland. Polish
> search and rescue workers have recovered 300 bodies
> so far and expect that number to
> climb as digging continues into the evening
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott VanArtsdalen" <svanarts(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Bottom wing skins on |
Just riveted on the bottom wing skins. Really starting to look like an
airplane wing! Looking for some advice here. Can I take the wing out of
the jig at this point? It would be easier to work on if laying on
sawhorses. Or should I leave it in the jig? Seems like it would be easier
to mount ailerons and flaps with wing on sawhorses...
Opinions? Advice? Warnings?
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 #1054 (fuel tank done, flaps and ailerons in progress)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Opps - Dimpling Wing skins and Ribs |
I accidently used Cleavelands tank dimple dies on my my outboard tip ribs and
skins. I realize this dimple makes a slightly deeper dimple. Is this going to
cause this to look poor? Other than asthetics do I have any problems?
John L. Danielson
JLD AirCraft Tools
13020 Welcome Lane
Burnsville, MN 55337
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Foam for seat cushions |
<< Temperfoam, three different densities, purchased from the folks in
Lincoln NE (I believe) are GREAT !!! they have an ad in SA each month.
A bit "high" but worth every cent!! Been using them for over a year and
wouldn't part with them.
RV-6A flying 3yrs, CO mountains
>>
Agree that the temperfoam is a VERY comfortable seat... I completely forget
about seating comfort when I'm sitting on my temperfoam seats- it's like
they're not even there... but the plane knows they are there because they
weigh 7 lbs apiece. I get lots of hangar comments on how heavy they seem.
Still lighter than typical spam seats, I'll bet.
Bill B
RV-6A 15 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | derek reed <dreed(at)cdsnet.net> |
robert dziewiontkoski wrote:
>
>
> I'm glad you think it's funny
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Saturday, July 11, 1998 6:00 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: a funny
>
> >
> > Subject: Newsflash
> >
> >
> > Subject: This Just In (Polish Air Disaster)
>
>
Just as well there are no lawers on the list,they would really be P'Od
by now!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vision Microsystems |
| From: | fitton(at)Juno.com (Robert D Fitton) |
writes:
>
>Does anyone have any experience with the "all in one" VM-1000 engine
>monitor
>system or their fuel indicating system? Looks easy to install (one big
>hole)
>and not much panel space required. Called them and got some
>literature(no
>web site and took a month to get the info after 2 calls). They seemed
>disorganized. Van's has them in the prototypes so must have some
>redeeming
>value!
>
>Tom Kachmar
>RV8 50508 Wings in the jig - ribs and spars riveted
>Keller, TX Hotter than hell
I understand that there was a death in the family of the owners of VM. I
believe it was their son. I was told they shut down for a week to
arrange the funeral, etc., but that the upset was much more profound than
that. They're getting back on an even keel and working off their
backlog. This might explain the delay in answering your query. However,
since they build the systems to fit the aircraft/engine, there always
will be a lead-time of a couple of months after ordering.
After much research into the many issues involved with an all-in-one
device, I ordered a VM-1000 about a month ago. Because I requested it,
they have sent me everything except the data processing unit (DPU) and
the flat panel display. These will come in about a month in the normal
flow of their work. The RV-4 I share the hanger with has a VM 800 system
installed and the owner swears by it. Next door (hanger) is a Cozy with
VM 1000 installed along with a TCAS, a HUD, and a bunch of other good
stuff. Apparently, the owner, a physician, could afford to install
whatever he wanted and chose the VM-1000. Of course, this could be the
old "I bought a Firebelcher V-12 and I love it 'cause I have to. I
bought it."
The high temperature each day in Las Vegas is approaching 110 (that's F
although sometimes it feels like C) and is expected to push above 110-115
next week.
Stay cool!
Bob
RV-4 wiring the panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Foam for seat cushions |
| From: | fitton(at)Juno.com (Robert D Fitton) |
>
>Need guidance on where to buy foam for seat cushions...Can't recall
>name of
>foam similiar to Temperfoam but lot less in price and where to get
>it....Would
>appreciate help....Thanks--Jim Brown, NJ
>
Is the only answer to Jim's question Becky Orndorff? Is the foam she
uses similar to Temperfoam as he asked? I need to do my seats soon and
am interested in the answer. Also, do we use the expensive stuff only of
the seat bottom and not the back? Since we sit fairly erect in our
aircraft is it reasonable to use a less costly foam in the seat backs?
It seems the only time there would be much pressure on the seat back
would be during a blazing climb or doing aerobatics. Is that reason
enough? Gotta save money where it makes sense to do so but don't want to
get caught up in false economy.
On page 145, right hand column, third add from the bottom in the July
issue of Sport Aviation is the add for Temperfoam from the folks in
Lincoln, NE, home of Big Red.
Bob
RV-4 Wiring panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WoodardRod(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Vision Microsystems |
In a message dated 7/11/98 7:53:37 PM Mountain Daylight Time, tkachmar(at)ibm.net
writes:
> Does anyone have any experience with the "all in one" VM-1000 engine monitor
> system or their fuel indicating system? Looks easy to install (one big
hole)
> and not much panel space required. Called them and got some literature(no
> web site and took a month to get the info after 2 calls). They seemed
> disorganized. Van's has them in the prototypes so must have some redeeming
> value!
>
Actually, now that you mention it, I have the capacitance senders and fuel
quantity guage I need to sell. (I'm the one who's selling the RV-8 wing kit,
too.) I can't remember what I've invested off the top of my head, but I'll
sell them at a 20% discount off what I've spent to whoever wants them. If
anyone's interested, I'll dig out the receipts and figure out an exact price.
As a note to anyone who's considering this option... What I concluded is that
these buggers are expensive no matter how you look at it, but are _really_
expensive if you don't plan on using the VM1000 or VM800 setup. If you don't
unit" to run the fuel quantity system.
I've heard great things about the Vision products from people using them. I've
heard lukewarm comments from people who do not. I guess it's a personal
preference thing. I had planned on using the VM1000 in my -8. John Stewart of
Burlington, Colorado used the Vision products in his Bronze Lindy-winning
RV-6A. John says the two independent systems of fuel flow vs. quantity guage
always indicated within 1 tenth of a gallon. Last I talked with him, he had
nothing bad to say about the Vision 1000 system in his bird.
For what it's worth...
Rod Woodard
Loveland, Colorado
Still selling...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | How Many Breakers? |
Could someone provide a list of which items need circuit breakers? I see
many panels with 15-20 breakers and I can only count seven for me...
gps/comm
transponder
engine monitor
microencoder
navaid
alternator
electronic ignition
What else?
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB)Arizona
Panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nippondenso alternator (model, modifications) |
Bart Dalton at B's aircraft sells the whole shooting match. He can be reached
at Planenutts@worldnet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna Location |
<< I'm about to install my com antenna and was going to put in on the belly.
> I'd appreciate any competent guidance on this issue. >>
Bob,
I cant comment for anyone else but I have a wire (whip) type antenna
located just behind and between the landing gear. I have no problems on the
ground or in the air. Works great! I woulnt change a thing.
Ryan Bendure Co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Blake Harral <bharral(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna Location |
Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com wrote:
>
>
> It depends on both the plane and how you use it.
> If you fly light planes out of controlled airports with ground control
> you need an antenna on the top of the plane.
> If all you do is talk to ground stations (and not other aircraft) from
> the air you could use an antenna on the bottom of the plane.
> Note: Fixed gear installations interfere with the antennas so on an RV
> a mount on the underside may not be a good idea. You will note that
> most aircraft with antennas on the bottom are retractables for this
> reason.
> The alternative is to fit both with either a splitter or two com
> radios.
>
Listers,
I was the original poster who suggested that the belly was not the best
place for
a comm antenna - I should have elaborated on my reasoning, but now Allan
has
covered a few of my concerns. I would add that if a bottom-mounted
antenna
is moved aft to be further from the prop/gear it will have less ground
clearance
on taildraggers or in the landing flare.
For best performance, the size of an antenna needs to be an appreciable
portion of
the wavlength associated with the communication frequency. For
transponders at
about 1090 Mhz, an antenna of a few inches works fine, and the belly is
an
excellent place for the transponder antenna, especially since the
transponder
function is not particulary important on the ground. Proximity to the
landing
gear is generally not a concern since there are many available mounting
locations
on the belly that are 'far' (in terms of wavelength) from the gear.
Since the wavelength for comm frequencies is about 6 ft, and practical
antenna lengths
are about 1/4 of that, it makes it more difficult to find an suitable
position on the
belly 'in the clear' (from electrical interference, and ground
clearance). More difficult,
but not impossible. I did not mean to imply that this location won't
work, because many
people have achieved satisfactory results. However, I have personally
witnessed poor ground
performance of such a system (with marked improvement once airborne), so
it colors my
view.
For my own RV-4, the current plan is for some type of low drag
installation, probably in
the wingtip or inside the canopy - both of these locations will
compromise the electrical
performance of the antenna. the wingtip installation suffers from wrong
polarization and
airframe blanking, while the under-the-canopy approach has the antenna
in close proximity
to interfering conductors. The price for speed and beauty, I guess.
I have toyed with the idea of using the gear legs themselves for a comm
antenna
(I would have to concede this a 'belly mount'). I believe this to be
possible with a
properly-designed feeder. I'm hoping some other Amateur Radio type will
beat me to it so
I can copy their installation! Hey Bob Nuckolls, this would probably be
a cinch for
someone with your brains and equipment!
John is correct that a suitable length of coax feedline can be used as a
transformer
to match the impedance of the transmitter to the antenna. For those of
you who have
simply stuck a COMM antenna on the belly or turtledeck and attached it
to the comm
radio without the benefits of professional analysis, using Smith charts
and complex
math, I can only say ....
Hey, wait a minute ... you guys are FLYING!
Regards,
Blake
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bottom wing skins on |
>Just riveted on the bottom wing skins. Really starting to look like an
>airplane wing! Looking for some advice here. Can I take the wing out
of
>the jig at this point? It would be easier to work on if laying on
>sawhorses. Or should I leave it in the jig? Seems like it would be
easier
>to mount ailerons and flaps with wing on sawhorses...
>
>Opinions? Advice? Warnings?
>
>--
>Scott VanArtsdalen
>RV-4 #1054 (fuel tank done, flaps and ailerons in progress)
Scott,
I removed my wings from the jig after installing the top wing skins. I
installed the bottom skins and fitted the flaps and ailerons with the
wings on my work table. I can't really say if these procedures were any
easier or perhaps more tedious this way, but I don't recall having any
problems and would do it the same way again. I also didn't need an extra
set of hands to hold the flaps and ailerons up in position while trying
to fit the spacers, bolts and other tiny bits. The table is covered with
a piece of carpet, and the wing panel can be easily slid around,
allowing for support of the surfaces while you're making (numerous?)
attempts at fabricating spacers for those darned attachment bolts.
Hope this helps you out. Those finished wings look COOL, huh?!
Brian Denk
-8 #379
fuselage (hopefully) coming my way this week.
http://geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/9656/akroshomepage.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How Many Breakers? |
>Could someone provide a list of which items need circuit breakers? I
see
>many panels with 15-20 breakers and I can only count seven for me...
>
>gps/comm
>transponder
>engine monitor
>microencoder
>navaid
>alternator
>electronic ignition
>
>What else?
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB)Arizona
>Panel
>
Paul,
How about:
Landing and/or taxi lights
Cockpit/instrument lighting
pitot heat
CD/Cassette/and disco ball lighting (OK, maybe not)
electric gyros, if any
strobes
position lights
hair dryer and curling iron (She'll LOOVE you for it)
Hmm....maybe you won't have that many breakers after all. I won't have
many in my airplane either, perhaps around 10 or so. As I understand it,
every individual circuit should be protected, as well as the entire
system up to the master switch.
Now...how to get that hair dryer outlet installed for Debbie...
Enjoy!
Brian "gettin' goofy without something to rivet" Denk
-8 #379
fuselage not here yet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Holman" <bholman(at)fullcomp.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Linear amplifier |
Can anyone tell us what effect of the proximity of the ground has on the
SWR of a bottom mounted antenna. It would have some influence I suspect
as other antenna mounted too close can affect SWR. Therefore would it be
more useful to check the SWR in the air, rather than on the ground. I have
flown in a Grumman with a bottom mounted antenna that works just fine inthe
air, but could not even contact the tower on the ground. Regards, Brian
> Your antenna installation will be the dominant factor. If
> the installation is not properly done, your transmitter
> might be putting only a very small portion of 5 watts into
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Bottom wing skins on |
Scott,
I kept my wings on the jig until they were done. I thought it would
minimize the chance of damage. As long as its on the jig, you don't
have to handle it. You can get to both sides.
Steve
Huntington, Vermont
Getting ready to take the RV-6A fuselage out of the jig (at last)
-----Original Message-----Can I take the wing out of
the jig at this point? It would be easier to work on if laying
on
sawhorses.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fran Malczynski <fmalczy(at)ibm.net> |
| Subject: | RV-List Bottom Wing Skins On |
Scott, I took my wing out of the jig after riveting on the bottom skins
no problem. My wife and I laid them on a couple of sawhorses with a 4X6
piece of particle board between them. For piece of mind I also supported
the center section of the particle board with a jack. The wing was light
enough for my wife and I to easily handle it.
With the wing on the sawhorses I found it was infinitely easier to work
on the aileron mounting brackets, flap brace, aileron gap fairing and
taking the aileron on and off to fit spacers. You end up working in a
horizontal plane at slightly above waist level rather then in a vertical
plane reaching up all the time to fit parts.
The only problem I encountered is when riveting on the flap brace the
wing has to be clamped to the sawhorses and the leading edge pushed up
against a wall to keep the whole assempbly from moving while you rivet.
Otherwise you end up with many smiles on your rivet heads and end up
drilling them out and doing them over. Go on, ask me how I know?
Hope this helps.
Fran Malczynski
RV6 (Wings almost done, riveting on bottom skins)
Olcott, NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Philip A Lehrke" <plehrke(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plumbing air compressor |
-----Original Message-----
From: Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net>
Date: Friday, July 10, 1998 10:35 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Plumbing air compressor
>
>>
>>I want to plumb the air from my air compressor. I intend to put the
>>compressor out in my garage while I work in my basement. It's loud.
>
>Joe, spent an extra $ or so and a little more time for installation and use
>COPPER piping. It is SAFE and permament
>About 8 months ago I posed the same question, and I am satisfied to decided
>to use copper.
>
>Lothar
>
> Lothar ||-6A|| Denver, CO || Ready to jig fuselage||
Just use a hose. Spend the time build the PLANE!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> |
Hi,
I have found several archive references to an RV-ator article on a stall
warning indicator for an RV aircraft. Unfortunately an issue number
wasn't issued.
Could someone please tell me which issue it was in so that I can order a
back issue from Van's. Or better yet, if someone would be generous
enough to fax it to me, it would be greatly appreciated. My fax number
is (847) 291-9505.
Thank you,
Glenn Gordon
(Struggling to build in a one car garage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Starter and Master Relay Orientation |
>I've looked at the threads in the archives, and am still a bit unsure about
this
>one. It seems to me that I should mount the relays (bought from Van's) with
>the main terminals vertical. That means the end cap on each relay (and the
>contactor direction of travel, I assume) would point face sideways,
minimizing
>the impact of + and - G loads on the contactor. Correct?
>Tim Lewis
>N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 on gear, engine mounted
Tim,
This is how I mounted my relays and it has worked out fine. I don't do
acro, though. You are correct. This is the mounting recommendation for
those who do pull "g's". I mounted them this way because it simplified the
way I have things wired. I went from the battery up to the top post of the
battery relay mounted on the left side of the aft firewall. From the bottom
terminal of the battery relay, I attached a short, curved wire to the bottom
of the starter relay, mounted to the right of the battery realy. From the
top terminal of the starter relay, I went through the firewall to the
starter. The relays were mounted with nutplates. The nutplates were
attached to the front of the firewall.
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How Many Breakers? |
>Could someone provide a list of which items need circuit breakers? I see
>many panels with 15-20 breakers and I can only count seven for me...
>Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB)Arizona Panel
Gosh, Paul, we don't want to make it too easy for you, right?
On my six:
Switch/CB combination---fuel boost, landing light, taxi light, strobe light,
nav lights, radio master.
Circuit breakers--- alternator, alt field, bat, intercom, GEM (engine
montitor), com, Loran, transponder & encoder, Navaid wing leveler
Fuses---tach, E.I. volt/amp gauge (3 fuses), engine gauges
If I had it to do over again, I would use many, if not all of the ideas
that I read about in Bob Nuckoll's AeroElectric Connection. By using Bob's
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Foam for seat cushions |
>Temperfoam, three different densities, purchased from the folks in
>Lincoln NE (I believe) are GREAT !!! they have an ad in SA each month.
>A bit "high" but worth every cent!! Been using them for over a year and
>wouldn't part with them.
>RV-6A flying 3yrs, CO mountains
It seems that most people like the 3-density Temperfoam for comfort. I
guess I'm one of the few who does not. I flew my 40 hour test period on the
3 layer Temperfoam (stuck in a pillow case) and, after 3 hours, I was ready
to get out. When I covered the cushions, I added a one inch layer of
generic, medium density foam. This seemed to help. Be aware that in cold
weather, these cushions are as hard as a concrete park bench until body heat
"melts" them a bit. If you overlay the Temperfoam, it will take longer to
"melt-in". Cold country flyers may want to take their cushions home with them.
I used a one inch layer of Sunmate for the seat back (which is also sold
by Jim Fix in Lincoln, NE. phone: 402-470-2346. Also, for any of you close
to Lincoln, Jim is an excellant prop man (all fixed pitch, no constant
speed, I believe.) He does a very nice job of re-conditioning metal, fixed
pitch props. I had Jim reduce the pitch on my CM70 Sensenich on my RV and
he did a good job at a reasonable price.
By the way, Jim really pushes the Temperfoam. He strongly believes that
this material is the best crash protection that your posterior can have. If
I had it to do over again, I'd perhaps have a cushion made that used one
layer of low density and two layers of the medium density and forgo the high
density on the bottom layer. I would also consider the Sunmate. It's
cheaper and lighter.
I would also look into Conforfoam. I saw some neat, uncovered, formed
seats in a RV-6 at the Longmont fly-in. Anyone know what these were?
Bob Skinner RV-6 425 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How Many Breakers? |
Let's see, I count 24 on mine:
Turn Coordinator
clock power (always hot)
flaps
transponder
engine monitor
encoder
alternator
primer
nav/com
GPS
aux power (12v jack in the cockpit for handhelds)
audio panel
marker beacon
panel lights
fuel gauges
starter
The following are through a switch/breaker combo (still circuit protection):
nav light
landing light
cockpit eyeball lights
fuel pump
main buss alternate feed
spare (future use)
There are three more that I can't remember at this time.
Hope this helps.
Scott Gesele N506RV - Flying
>Could someone provide a list of which items need circuit breakers? I see
>many panels with 15-20 breakers and I can only count seven for me...
>
>gps/comm
>transponder
>engine monitor
>microencoder
>navaid
>alternator
>electronic ignition
>
>What else?
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A (197AB)Arizona
>Panel
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How Many Breakers? |
On 11 Jul 98, at 21:57, Paul Besing wrote:
> Could someone provide a list of which items need circuit breakers? I see
> many panels with 15-20 breakers and I can only count seven for me...
>
> gps/comm
> transponder
> engine monitor
> microencoder
> navaid
> alternator
> electronic ignition
>
> What else?
Here's my list:
Alternator (60 A)
Landing Lights
Strobe/Nav Lights
Flaps
Fuel Pump
Pitot Heat
Starter (relay)
Alternator Field (5 A)
Avionics Master (50 amp switch/breaker between main bus and avionics bus)
Nav/Com
GPS/ICS/MB/Tape player
Engine Monitor/Xpndr
Navaid
Trim
Hope this helps.
tim
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 on gear, engine mounted
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | proseal expiration and archives |
Hi all,
I have some proseal in the premix tubes with an expiration date of June, and
my riveting partner has to take a break to work on his house. I stored the
proseal in my garage this last winter, so I am sure I can push the
expiration date a bit. What are the indications that I will have to buy new
proseal? I am sure I have seen this subject in the past, but I am having no
luck getting Matt's new search engine to work for me.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MLaboyteau(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Foam for seat cushions |
<< I need to do my seats soon and
am interested in the answer. Also, do we use the expensive stuff only of
the seat bottom and not the back? Since we sit fairly erect in our
aircraft is it reasonable to use a less costly foam in the seat backs?
It seems the only time there would be much pressure on the seat back
would be during a blazing climb or doing aerobatics. Is that reason
enough? Gotta save money where it makes sense to do so but don't want to
get caught up in false economy. >>
If you call Mr. Jim Fix in Lincoln, NE at 402-470-2346, he'll set you up with
a complete kit for both seats in your RV. It includes the three types of
Temperfoam for the seat bottoms, and two pieces of Sunmate for the seat backs.
The Sunmate is 1" thick, softer and lighter than the Temperfoam. It also
includes instructions on how to construct your seat cushions. My seat cushions
are Temperfoam, and they are very comfortable. I haven't had the opportunity
to sit on them in the winter yet, but with ambient temps of 98~100 F that
we've had lately, they've been very soft!
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV "The Silver Streak!"
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
Broken Arrow, Ok
________________________________________________________________________________
chill out,
when i posted this joke all i did was copy and paste it. if this offends you,
just substitute polish people with whatever ethnic group you choose.
scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna Location |
>
> >I'm about to install my com antenna and was going to put in on the belly.
> > I'd appreciate any competent guidance on this issue.
> >
> >Bob
> >RV-4 Wiring the panel
>
> Bob,
> I mounted my comm antenna on the bottom of my RV6 and the installation has
> worked very well. I fly into a tower controlled airport on a regular basis
> and have never had any complaints. No complaints from center, either.
> I'm using a bent whip antenna and it is mounted directly under the fuel
> selector valve. It's just in front of the 604 bulkhead. On the 6's, this
> location also allows the quick un-coupling of the coax to the panel mount so
> that a coax from a hand held can be easily attached just in case the panel
> mount conks out.
>
> Bob Skinner RV-6 425 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
>
I second what Bob has said. I have two comm radios and both antennas
are mounted on the bottom just in front of the main spar which makes it
very easy to get to the coupling. They are as far to the sides as I
can get them, and then in the middle below the fuel valve I have my
transponder antenna. I have ask the tower how it sounds to them from
the ground and it is always load and clear.
If you want to hide the antennas somewhere else is fine but if you want
good radio reception in the air and ground the bottom is the place.
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How Many Breakers? |
>Could someone provide a list of which items need circuit breakers? I see
>many panels with 15-20 breakers and I can only count seven for me...
>gps/comm
>transponder
>engine monitor
>microencoder
>navaid
>alternator
>electronic ignition
>What else?
Turn & Bank
Strobes
Nav Lights
Landing Light
Fuel Boost Pump
Electric Trim
Electric Flaps
Anything electrical needs a fuse or CB to protect the wiring. If you don't
plan on having any of the items on *MY* list you won't fly at night and
will have to have an alternate fuel pump (wobble pump?) since the FAA won't
sign off your low wing plane with only the engine driven pump.
Bob Steward, A&P IA
AA-1B N8978L
AA-5A N1976L
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: proseal expiration and archives |
>I have some proseal in the premix tubes with an expiration date of June, and
>my riveting partner has to take a break to work on his house. I stored the
>proseal in my garage this last winter, so I am sure I can push the
>expiration date a bit. What are the indications that I will have to buy new
>proseal? I am sure I have seen this subject in the past, but I am having no
>luck getting Matt's new search engine to work for me.
>Steve Johnson
>RV-8 #80121
The "expired" pro-seal is a bit like "expired" film or day old bread.
Still useful and often will meet the needs of the user with no problem. I
have some Coast Pro-Seal that is *10 YEARS* out of date. It still works.
I wouldn't dream of using it to seal fuel tanks anymore, but I find that it
makes an excellent potting compound to stabilize components from vibration,
etc.
The effects of age on unused fuel tank sealant are primarily to cause
unreliable pot life while mixed and differing cure times to full strength.
Used judiciously it would be no problem for most applications. If it were
considerably past the expiration date then I'd buy new for critical areas
like the fuel tanks and use the older stuff as a bonding agent at trailing
edges, etc.
Bob Steward, A&P IA
AA-1B N8978L
AA-5A N1976L
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Linear Amp for hand held |
Please advise who makes, price if Possible
thanx
Bud Hawkins RV-6 flying 31 hours & holding cowl repairs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "TOMMY E. WALKER" <twsurveyor(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bottom wing skins on |
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts(at)jps.net>
Date: Saturday, July 11, 1998 10:08 PM
Subject: RV-List: Bottom wing skins on
>
>Just riveted on the bottom wing skins. Really starting to look like an
>>
>--
>Scott VanArtsdalen
>RV-4 #1054 (fuel tank done, flaps and ailerons in progress)
>
Scott, I just completed riviting my top skins on my right wing. I did the
top inboard skins in the jig and the top outboard skins on a 4' x 8' padded
top table. I also fitted the flap and flap brace on with the wing on the
table. That was an akward way to do it! On my left wing I moved the
horizontal spar supports down to 18" off the floor and flipped the wing over
with the leading edge down. This allowed an eazy method of fitting the
aileron, flap and flap brace! I plan on doing the top skins in the same
manner as the right wing. Hope this helps.
Tommy (Ridgetop, TN)
6-A closing wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Craig-Stearman <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Carb and fuel pump for sale |
Hi 'Listers,
I am back on the list after an unplanned absence when my hard drive
crashed. I have for sale one carburetor and one engine-driven fuel pump,
both removed from a brand new O-360A1A purchased from Van's Aircraft. The
carb is a Precision Airmotive MA-4-5, part number 10-3878. Aircraft
Spruce, in Trade-A-Plane, lists a factory remanufactured carb, same part
number, for $645 + $400 core charge. I didn't see a part number on the
fuel pump. AC is cast into the case, and what I presume is the serial
number is stamped into the bottom: A154729609. The Aircraft Spruce catalog
lists the engine-driven fuel pump for $118.75, apparently outright. I will
sell each for 2/3 of the list price: $695 for the carb and $80 for the fuel
pump, plus shipping. E-mail me off-list if you want either or both.
I removed the carb and fuel pump to convert the engine to Airflow
Performance fuel injection. Everett Hatch flow-matched the cylinders,
installed the Airflow Performance system, installed a custom sump and
cold-air plenum, and experimented until he settled on 27" tuned induction
runners. The engine now puts out 200hp on the dyno with stock 8.5 to 1
compression. I can't wait to hear it run on the airplane. I hope to have
a first-flight report in a few weeks.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraigst(at)ionet.net
RV-4 50TC (reserved) mounting the engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 weights-Scott |
Scott McDaniels--do you work for Van's?? Sorry if this is a stupid question
--sometimes I am a little slow or in this case alot slow. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Woodson <woodson(at)soe.berkeley.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna Location |
>Since the wavelength for comm frequencies is about 6 ft, and practical
>antenna lengths
>are about 1/4 of that, it makes it more difficult to find an suitable
>position on the
>belly 'in the clear' (from electrical interference, and ground
>clearance). More difficult,
>but not impossible. I did not mean to imply that this location won't
>work, because many
>people have achieved satisfactory results. However, I have personally
>witnessed poor ground
>performance of such a system (with marked improvement once airborne), so
>it colors my
>view.
>
While I haven't worked with installations with the inability to contact
ground control but good performance in the air, I suspect this is a problem
of antenna matching rather than antenna location. Modern radios have
considerable capacity to adjust to antenna mismatch, but there are limits.
Being near the ground would detune the antenna. An antenna detuned beyond
what the radio can adapt to, could lead to very poor signals. It could
also damage the radio, but modern radios are designed to resist this sort
of damage.
I would check antenna match while flying and on the ground. I would
optimize the match for flying. If the difference is very large, one might
consider optimizing for in between these conditions. Radio signals weaken
by the cube of the distance, so whatever signal you put out on the ground
is likely to be thousands of times stronger than needed in a properly
matched radio.
In the case of the problem antenna mentioned above, I would expect to find
it far off in both cases, but further off on the ground. Performance in
the air is probably poor, but not so poor to be noticed. The reports we
usually get are very crude measures.
Charles Woodson
http://socrates.berkeley.edu/~cw
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
>just substitute polish people with whatever ethnic group you choose.
ONe of the things I've found amusing in my world travels (My wife and I
had the privelege of living in the UK for a year some time ago) is that
each nationality seems to have another nationality that is the object of
their humour.
Americans tell Polish Jokes
The British tell Irish jokes
The Germans tell Bavarian jokes
The Norwegians tell Swedish jokes
etc.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744 N601DB
Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | L & M Rowles <lmrowles(at)netspace.net.au> |
Hello to list members from Australia.
I am trying to organize a school similar to one just gone in Newcastle. In
my area here in Gippsland there are about 19 RVs on the go, but, we would
need more people to cover expenses.
You Sand gropers ought to be able to have a stage over there as you breed
RVers like flys. I need to know how many would be interested, and where
you are all from, so as to pick locations and venues. I know some of the
top people in RV circles ion the States are interested.
Please e-mail me off list and include details of your mates who are
interested but don't have e-mail.
Les Rowles
Po Box 1895
Traralgon
Australia 3844
lmrowles(at)netspace.net.au
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James A. Tillman" <till3(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Carb and fuel pump for sale |
howdy, my partner and i are considering the same possiblity of coverting an
0-360 to an io360. can you give me the particulars?
jim tillman/chris landry
rv8 80655, left wing about ready for gig.
newnan, ga
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Craig-Stearman <tcraigst(at)ionet.net>
Date: Sunday, July 12, 1998 3:11 PM
Subject: RV-List: Carb and fuel pump for sale
>
>Hi 'Listers,
>I am back on the list after an unplanned absence when my hard drive
>crashed. I have for sale one carburetor and one engine-driven fuel pump,
>both removed from a brand new O-360A1A purchased from Van's Aircraft. The
>carb is a Precision Airmotive MA-4-5, part number 10-3878. Aircraft
>Spruce, in Trade-A-Plane, lists a factory remanufactured carb, same part
>number, for $645 + $400 core charge. I didn't see a part number on the
>fuel pump. AC is cast into the case, and what I presume is the serial
>number is stamped into the bottom: A154729609. The Aircraft Spruce catalog
>lists the engine-driven fuel pump for $118.75, apparently outright. I will
>sell each for 2/3 of the list price: $695 for the carb and $80 for the fuel
>pump, plus shipping. E-mail me off-list if you want either or both.
>
>I removed the carb and fuel pump to convert the engine to Airflow
>Performance fuel injection. Everett Hatch flow-matched the cylinders,
>installed the Airflow Performance system, installed a custom sump and
>cold-air plenum, and experimented until he settled on 27" tuned induction
>runners. The engine now puts out 200hp on the dyno with stock 8.5 to 1
>compression. I can't wait to hear it run on the airplane. I hope to have
>a first-flight report in a few weeks.
>
>Regards,
>Tom Craig-Stearman
>tcraigst(at)ionet.net
>RV-4 50TC (reserved) mounting the engine
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna Location |
<< However, I have personally
witnessed poor ground
performance of such a system (with marked improvement once airborne), so
it colors my
view. >>
How many folks fly with two antennas for Comm?? A simple coaxial switch would
do the trick. It is more bother, more drag, more expense, and more weight,
BUT, it would work nicely.
Jim Nice
RV6A
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna Location |
Charles wrote::
<< While I haven't worked with installations with the inability to contact
ground control but good performance in the air, I suspect this is a problem
of antenna matching rather than antenna location. Modern radios have
considerable capacity to adjust to antenna mismatch, but there are limits.
Being near the ground would detune the antenna. An antenna detuned beyond
what the radio can adapt to, could lead to very poor signals. It could
also damage the radio, but modern radios are designed to resist this sort
of damage.
I would check antenna match while flying and on the ground. I would
optimize the match for flying. If the difference is very large, one might
consider optimizing for in between these conditions. Radio signals weaken
by the cube of the distance, so whatever signal you put out on the ground
is likely to be thousands of times stronger than needed in a properly
matched radio. >>
I agree with Charles 100% - and I am one who is using a belly mounted comm
antenna which has not yet been properly VSWR checked and trimmed. There are
spots at the far end of the runway where tower absolutely cannot hear my Icom
A-200, but if I move a few feet, I become solid copy. When receiving in that
spot, there is a definite chopped-modulation from the prop blades. I suspect
the whole setup is poorly matched, and the transmitter final is in foldback-
limiting mode. I have not had lousy reports while airborne. My antenna is a
quarter-wave inverted -L that runs half its length down the gear leg
fiberglass fairing before turning 90 degrees aft into the slipstream. It
_looks_ aerodynamic; performance so far is another matter on the ground. I
plan to obtain an MFJ bridge like "Electric Bob" has in order to tune this
(and all future) antennas.
Bill Boyd
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
<< Americans tell Polish Jokes
The British tell Irish jokes
The Germans tell Bavarian jokes
The Norwegians tell Swedish jokes
etc. >>
I have found that these ethnic jokes tend to be divided by geography within
the U.S. In Milwaukee, WI, the jokes are on the Polish. In Minneapolis, St.
Paul area, it is Swedish jokes. In New York or Chicago, you are more likely
to hear Italian jokes. At any rate, I have noticed one thing for sure. The
best jokes I have heard were told by persons who are of the ethnic extraction
that is the crux of the joke being told. Go figure.
Jim Nice
WA State
(Where it is "not politically correct" to tell "any" ethnic jokes.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Cocker <JCocker(at)ibm.net> |
| Subject: | Antenna Location |
Bob, I have the antenna on the belly of the aircraft and I have never had
any problem with communications.
Another advantage, it is on the floor between the two seats. My back-up
radio is a hand-held. If the main radio fails, I should be able to unplug
the antenna, and plug in the mobile - so now it will have an external
antenna.
The reason I say "should" is that you have to be a bit of a contortionist,
and I have tried the mobile comm. and it works fine just as a hand-held.
John RV 6A 190 hours
[John Cocker] .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Farrar" <fourazjs(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-6 Elevator travel |
Ron Chernich
Ron, You said in an earlier list message, which I foolishly deleted, that
chapter 6 pg14 of the RV8 manual references cutting away the spar flange to
clear the elevator horns. I have read that page several times and cannot
find it. That page is dated 11/17/97 file 8S6PP44.DOC. What is yours? It
looks like there hase been a change. Thanks, Jeff Farrar, RV8A, Empennage
done waiting for QB, Chandler, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Lycoming care and feeding |
Now that I have apparently solved my electronic ignition woes (by removing
same and replacing with a magneto) and my carburtetion woes (by drilling out
the main jet to #37 and setting the floats to the proper height), I must admit
my ignorance and ask my list buddies for instruction in the proper handling of
the mixture control during engine break-in (14 hrs SMOH) and during all phases
of flight. Most of my recent hours are in a two-stroke aircraft, and before
that, in the C-150 days, my instructor never seemed to fiddle with the mixture
very much, nor perhaps very knowledgeably. I want to be reminded how the
mixture should be handled during ground ops, T/O, climb, cruise at various
power levels, descent, and so forth. I have full instrumentation (EGTx4,
CHTx4, MAP,etc) so be as detailed as you'd like in terms of what point to lean
to, etc.
Many thanks. I really don't know much on this topic and don't want to hurt my
newly overhauled Lyc O-320.
BTW, Jeff Rose was as helpful as he could be short of travelling here himself,
but we still couldn't get either the first or the replacement DIS units to
perform at all well in my plane. We both figure it must be my installation
that is at fault, but the supply voltage and grounding checked okay, the mag
is now using the same spark plugs and purrs like a kitten, the mechanical
timing was checked repeatedly and the mechanical index was right, the voltage
signal was correct for the MAP advance feature, etc, so I finally listened to
my survival instinct and removed the DIS before it removed me. If you have
one (or two) of these on your airplane and they work well, hey - I am
genuinely happy for you. I gave up, and I'm GLAD I DID! But I can say only
good things about the service Jeff tries to offer his customers and the
knowledge he seems to posess. With so many satisfied customers, I must be the
one with a problem, but right now that problem is taken care of and I am not
going to look back or second-guess myself anymore.
There - I feel better with that off my chest!
Thanks in advance for the forthcoming list wisdom.
Bill Boyd
RV-6A flying (smoothly at last!) Wonder what the red knob does............
Western Virginia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jeffrey m. sedlock" <jlock(at)centuryinter.net> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
| Subject: | Antenna Location |
Why use a switch, some coax wired as a balun works fine to drive both
antennas at the same time.
If you can find an ARRL antenna hand book (mine is over the other side
of Australia) it will tell you how.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-List: Antenna Location
Date: 12-07-98 19:02
<< However, I have personally
witnessed poor ground
performance of such a system (with marked improvement once airborne), so
it colors my
view. >>
How many folks fly with two antennas for Comm?? A simple coaxial switch would
do the trick. It is more bother, more drag, more expense, and more weight,
BUT, it would work nicely.
Jim Nice
RV6A
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
| Subject: | Antenna Location |
If you are getting propeller noise are you using an aluminium prop?
If so you could be getting screening effects. This is typical for a
bottom mounted antenna as item like undercart and props block the
signal in narrow bands (or not so narrow if you have a retract with
large doors). You can get perfect reception in one spot and none in
another. A signal strength meter will tell you your dead spots in your
radiation pattern and is one of the checks most military aircraft are
subjected to before acceptance.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-List: Antenna Location
Date: 12-07-98 19:09
Charles wrote::
<< While I haven't worked with installations with the inability to contact
ground control but good performance in the air, I suspect this is a problem
of antenna matching rather than antenna location. Modern radios have
considerable capacity to adjust to antenna mismatch, but there are limits.
Being near the ground would detune the antenna. An antenna detuned beyond
what the radio can adapt to, could lead to very poor signals. It could also
damage the radio, but modern radios are designed to resist this sort of
damage.
I would check antenna match while flying and on the ground. I would
optimize the match for flying. If the difference is very large, one might
consider optimizing for in between these conditions. Radio signals weaken
by the cube of the distance, so whatever signal you put out on the ground
is likely to be thousands of times stronger than needed in a properly
matched radio. >>
I agree with Charles 100% - and I am one who is using a belly mounted comm
antenna which has not yet been properly VSWR checked and trimmed. There are
spots at the far end of the runway where tower absolutely cannot hear my Icom
A-200, but if I move a few feet, I become solid copy. When receiving in that
spot, there is a definite chopped-modulation from the prop blades. I suspect
the whole setup is poorly matched, and the transmitter final is in foldback-
limiting mode. I have not had lousy reports while airborne. My antenna is a
quarter-wave inverted -L that runs half its length down the gear leg
fiberglass fairing before turning 90 degrees aft into the slipstream. It
_looks_ aerodynamic; performance so far is another matter on the ground. I
plan to obtain an MFJ bridge like "Electric Bob" has in order to tune this
(and all future) antennas.
Bill Boyd
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
With all the excitement I have had regarding my rough-running engine, I
haven't had the occasion to mention the other minor squawks I have encountered
getting my 6A airborne.
I had the "brake thing," too: groaning brakes and pedals that refused to
return to the fully upright position on the pax side. A call to Van's for
replacement springs elicited this helpful informnation: the brake spring
problem, according to the factory, is a hoax, an urban legend. Bendix is
giving away springs only because that is easier than arguing with demented RV
builders who are convinced the springs are defective. Now they have asked
Van's to take the pressure off further by becoming the distribution center for
the not-really-needed replacement springs.
I just thought that all of you holding _short springs_ in your hands would
like to know you are having hallucinations, fueled by the internet. Seems the
real problem is where you drill the weldment for the master cylinder attach
hardware. This would explain why the problem is unique to RV-6's and 6A's.
As an explanation for why new springs take care of the problem, it lacks a
little something.... I ended up telling them to wait on sending the
replacement springs. Those of you who did use them: did they work?
One day I found the canopy was harder to tip up fully, and found that one of
the gas struts had apparently farted away its nitrogen supply during the
night... I knew I would have to be careful from then on, but still managed to
let the canopy slam down on my legs while I was on my back under the panel.
Fortunately, my helper was nearby and came to my aid. Then yesterday the
mechanic gave the plane a smart tug to get it rolling and sent the canopy
slamming shut with none of my body parts handy to cushion the impact. The
force of impact bowed the canopy safety handle, but did not crack any plexi.
Close call.
The factory was called when the problem first appeared; the strut arrived 2
weeks later. They were so quick to offer a free replacement that I didn't
even have the presence of mind to ask if this has been a common problem.
Reading between the lines I would guess it has.
They don't call this the Test Period for nothing :-)
Bill Boyd
RV-6A flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Miller <rgmiller(at)acadiacom.net> |
| Subject: | Burlington, Colo. Fly-In |
Anyone know the date of the RV Fly-In at Burlington, Colorado?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Linear amplifier |
Kelli Lewis wrote:
>
>
> My com radio doesn't seem to reach as far as I would like it to. I have the
> belly-mounted bent antenna and maybe that is part of the problem. My
> question: I have seen linear amplifiers for one watt hand-held radios. Would
> they work for 5-7 watt panel mount? Should I look elsewhere for a solution?
> I'm sure a straight antenna or a top-mounted antenna would work better
> (don't want one there). The bent one has an S/W of 3.0 where the straight is
> less than 2. Is there a linear amp made or buildable for the panel mounts?
>
> Just wondering.............
>
> Michael
> RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Michael;
Reading from my com radio installation booklet.......
" Antenna selection for the radio should be a 50 ohm vertically
polarized COM antenna. Vertical bent whip antennas are not
recommended."
I suspect that may be part of your matching problem.
John Kitz
N721JK
Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bryon Maynard <bmaynar3(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | F602 wire bundle |
I am now in the process for wiring up my rv-6a. I am running the main
bundle of wire through F604 then along the lower angle leading towards
the F602. I am having difficulting deciding wheather I should attach the
bundle to the F602 surface facing inwards or run through the F602 and
then up it. I need suggestions particular how to do this and about
possible inteferance with the vent line (which I still have not figure
out how it is going to route.)
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AIRPLANEIT(at)aol.com |
<...Americans tell Polish Jokes
The British tell Irish jokes...>
I'm curious...who tells the jokes about the Americans? Everyone?
And better yet....I've heard multiple spam-can-happy CFI's laughing about
jokes about homebuilders. Same thing?
-Nick Stolley
Woodbury, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4131rb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Burlington, Colo. Fly-In |
The date of the fly in in Burlington is September 19th and 20th. We had a
good turn out last year and hope the weather is better this year for an even
better turn out. The city really tries hard to make sure that everyone is
having a great time. You will be treated very well. Hope to see you there.
Ryan Bendure
Rv 4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ed loveday <eloveday(at)ici.net> |
| Subject: | Frey Jig Specials |
Frey Precision Steel Jigs for RV Aircraft
Listers:
Announcing the Oshkosh Specials for 1998:
Empennage Jig (all RV's) $575.00
Wing Jig (all) 575.00
Comb. Empennage/Wing Jig (all) 900.00
Fuselage Jig (RV-3) 895.00
Fuselage Jig (RV-4) 975.00
Fuselage Jig (Rocket II) 1075.00
Fuselage Jig (RV-6/6A) 1150.00
Fuselage Jig (RV-8/8A) Coming in '99
Optional Steel Fixtures
Empennage Main Frame (All RV's) 150.00
Empennage Stop Bar Package (All) 100.00
Wing Spar Arm Package (All) 100.00
Birdcage Option (All) 200.00
Offer Valid through September 1998
- A non-refundable 50% deposit is required to hold offer
- Prices do not include crating, shipping or handling
- Not combined or included with any other offer
Contact Ed Loveday at Sport Aero - 15 Roberts Road - Plymouth, MA 02360
(508) 747-0061 or eloveday(at)ici.net
Major Credit Cards Accepted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Woodson <woodson(at)soe.berkeley.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna Location |
> My antenna is a
>quarter-wave inverted -L that runs half its length down the gear leg
>fiberglass fairing before turning 90 degrees aft into the slipstream. It
>_looks_ aerodynamic; performance so far is another matter on the ground. I
>plan to obtain an MFJ bridge like "Electric Bob" has in order to tune this
>(and all future) antennas.
>
Ahh, that close to the metal of the gear will likely detune the antenna in
a very
major way. Another alternative might be to go straight back with the
whole length, using the gear as a ground. But the radiation of that would
be mostly horizontally polarized, as the NAV signals are, and not optimal
for the COM function.
I wonder how much drag a 1/4 wave out the bottom has anyway. I suppose
one could estimate it by holding an antenna out in the air at cruise. If
it were 2 pounds, then
that could be compared to the total drag of the RV6 at cruise.
My guess is you need to lengthen it. You might try a clip lead on the tip
of the antenna with 2, 4, or 6 inches of wire on it, and plot the change
with each. This would give you something to try while waiting for the SWR
meter, which would be the better test to make.
I rather doubt loading the gear would work well. The big hunk of metal on
the end would complicate things, especially since it somethings gets close
to the ground.
How about a half wavelength large copper wire down the rear edge of the
fiberglass fairing and connected to the gear at the other end. When
tuned, by having the right length, it should have mostly vertical
polarization and a low impedance feed point. This is just a wild untested
idea.
Antennas in the wingtips should be relatively easy, but the common designs
would give horizontal polarization, optomized for NAV but not for COM.
By the way, given the importance of communication, I would be inclined to
install the usual antenna out the bottom between the gear. Experimenting
with these other alternatives would be fun, but communication capability
should not be neglected.
Charles Woodson
http://socrates.berkeley.edu/~cw
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "IEN YOE" <PAUL.AND.IEN(at)worldnet.att.net> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Lundquist" <DLUNDQUIST(at)postoffice.worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna Location |
Allan Gibson wrote:
>
> Why use a switch, some coax wired as a balun works fine to drive
both
> antennas at the same time.
> If you can find an ARRL antenna hand book (mine is over the other
side
> of Australia) it will tell you how.
>
Be very careful!
While this may seem simple enough, and would probably work well under most
circumstances, 2 antennas connected to a common source creates what we
engineering types call a phased array. The effect is to create apparent
gain in directions from the antenna where the two signals are in phase and
add, and also create nulls (no signal) in directions where the two signals
are out of phase and cancel. When properly applied this phenomenon is very
useful in creating directional antennas. It is very commonly used for FM
broadcast, Mobile communications, cellular, etc where we want to push all
of the radiated power in the direction of the horizon. Multiple dipole
antennas are stacked vertically and then fed in proper phase and a great
benefit in both reduced transmit power requirement and improved receive
signal strength is achieved. I suspect the unpredictable nulls acheived
with two comm antennas would outweigh any other potential benefits of this
dual antenna approach in aircraft applications. While not an aircraft
radio expert I would expect that mounting a comm antenna on the belly of a
plane would work just fine, even on fixed gear aircraft. As long as
everything is mounted, tuned and matched properly, the relatively short
shot to the tower should be no problem even with a 1 or 2 watt handheld.
Things may get a bit strange (the flutter problem mentioned in a previous
post for example) if the antenna tip to runway clearance is just a few
inches and the runway is concrete with a lot of steel rebar, but I would be
very surprised if this were common problem. I would be curious to hear if
anybody else has had problems with belly mounted antennas, or is using the
two antennas and a splitter config.
David Lundquist
RV-6 Wings
Long Island, NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
Living in Iowa we tend to tell jokes on the Norwegians that live up north in
Minnesota....
However it is not polite to tell joke on any ethnic group.
If we must we should tell them on some vanished race like the Atlantan's who
vanished centurys B.C.
"You see there was these two Atlantans, Lars and Nels........."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Woodson <woodson(at)soe.berkeley.edu> |
| Subject: | Wing tip designs |
I suspect wing tips have a noticeable influence on efficiency and other
flight characteristics of a RV.
(1) For example, wouldn't a rounded wing tip (WW2 Spitfire) be more
efficient? By how much?
(2) Also, I seem to recall people putting end plates on clipped wings of
J3's and reporting great improvement in stall speed and other
characteristics.
(3) People are spending lots of money for drooped wing tips to speed up
Cessnas.
Can anyone direct me to research reports about wing tip characteristics?
Charles Woodson
http://socrates.berkeley.edu/~cw
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming care and feeding |
SportAV8R(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
I want to be reminded how the
> mixture should be handled during ground ops, T/O, climb, cruise at various
> power levels, descent, and so forth. I have full instrumentation (EGTx4,
> CHTx4, MAP,etc) so be as detailed as you'd like in terms of what point to lean
> to, etc.
>
> Many thanks. I really don't know much on this topic and don't want to hurt my
> newly overhauled Lyc O-320.
>
Bill
Referring back to your post about landing in your friends 2000 ft strip
and being concerned about being to close to the trees on the way out
and having a 4100 ft density altitude. My question is did you lean on
the ground before takeoff? If you did not you are being robbed of
quit allot of power at that density altitude.
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Bishop <wemkbish(at)nponline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Burlington, Colo. Fly-In |
Robert Miller wrote:
>
> Anyone know the date of the RV Fly-In at Burlington, Colorado?
>
Sat & Sun. 19-20 Sept.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Antenna Location |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>How many folks fly with two antennas for Comm?? A simple coaxial
>switch would
>do the trick. It is more bother, more drag, more expense, and more
>weight,
>BUT, it would work nicely.
>
I really like the less drag and less complexity idea, but then why even
have 2 coms in the airplane if you can't use them both at the same time
(such as monitoring an ATIS while you are still on an approach control
freq. etc.). There is now an option for builders wishing to keep it
simple but still wanting this type of flexibility.
The new SL40 (or SL60 with the GPS) com has the capability to monitor
(receive only) the freq. that is in the standby position so you can
listen and xmit on the freq. in the active window while you still listen
in on the freq. selected on the other half of the flip-flop function of
the radio.
We have one in the RV-8A and like it a lot. It is small and light but
big on performance.
Yes... Van's sells them, but this is not meant to be an advertisement.
I just like to pass along info on things that I find to be great for RV's
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 weights-Scott |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>
>Scott McDaniels--do you work for Van's?? Sorry if this is a stupid
>question
>--sometimes I am a little slow or in this case alot slow. JR
>
>
>
Yes, I work in the prototype shop at Van's.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
AIRPLANEIT(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> And better yet....I've heard multiple spam-can-happy CFI's laughing about
> jokes about homebuilders. Same thing?
>
> -Nick Stolley
> Woodbury, MN
>
HAHA now that is really a good one, the jokes on them because they don't
know what they are missing.
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "robert dziewiontkoski" <DZflyer(at)email.msn.com> |
Thank you Rob.
-----Original Message-----
From: Rob Acker <roba(at)globalink.net>
Date: Sunday, July 12, 1998 5:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: a funny
>
>>
>> chill out,
>> when i posted this joke all i did was copy and paste it. if this offends
>you,
>> just substitute polish people with whatever ethnic group you choose.
>> scott
>
>Better yet Scott,
>
>Chill out yourself and follow the list rules (you know, the ones you got
>when you signed on AND in the form of daily reminders). They specifically
>ask not to post the type of "content" you did in the first place.
>
>Rob Acker (RV-6Q).
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Frey Jig Specials |
ed loveday wrote:
>
>
> Frey Precision Steel Jigs for RV Aircraft
>
> Listers:
> Announcing the Oshkosh Specials for 1998:
>
Not trying to cut into anyone's business but I just don't understand why
anyone would want to pay those prices when the jigs are so easy to
construct from less than $100.00 worth of lumber and less than a days
work. The wood fuselage jig I built was used on at least three other
RV before I lost track of it, it may still be being used 9 years later
for all I know. IMO spend the money on airplane goodies.
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Stall Warning |
| From: | carowbotham(at)Juno.com (Charles A Rowbotham) |
Glenn,
There was article in the May-98 issue of Sport Aviation, by Jim Frantz
about his AOA system. I called him and discussed his article & system
and was impressed. The retail price is $1450, but he is offering an
Oshkosh special at $1200. IMO definitely worth your review.
Jim can be reached at (612) 474-4154 or FRantz(at)compuserve.com
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A (awaiting QB)
writes:
>
>Hi,
>
>I have found several archive references to an RV-ator article on a
>stall
>warning indicator for an RV aircraft. Unfortunately an issue number
>wasn't issued.
>
>Could someone please tell me which issue it was in so that I can order
>a
>back issue from Van's. Or better yet, if someone would be generous
>enough to fax it to me, it would be greatly appreciated. My fax
>number
>is (847) 291-9505.
>
>Thank you,
>Glenn Gordon
>(Struggling to build in a one car garage)
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Graf <markgraf(at)SprintMail.com> |
> I had the "brake thing," too: groaning brakes and pedals that refused to
> return to the fully upright position on the pax side. A call to Van's for
> replacement springs elicited this helpful informnation: the brake spring
> problem, according to the factory, is a hoax, an urban legend. Bendix is
> giving away springs only because that is easier than arguing with demented RV
> builders who are convinced the springs are defective. Now they have asked
> Van's to take the pressure off further by becoming the distribution center for
> the not-really-needed replacement springs.
>
> I just thought that all of you holding _short springs_ in your hands would
> like to know you are having hallucinations, fueled by the internet. Seems the
> real problem is where you drill the weldment for the master cylinder attach
> hardware. This would explain why the problem is unique to RV-6's and 6A's.
> As an explanation for why new springs take care of the problem, it lacks a
> little something.... I ended up telling them to wait on sending the
> replacement springs. Those of you who did use them: did they work?
>
Dad and I had the break problem with our 6. The breaks would not bleed
(two sets of master cylinders). Once the toes were pulled up, the
breaks would bleed.
Once removed, the springs were measured, both height (4.125 to 4.25
inches), and spring pressure (eight pounds at three inches). They met
neither MANUFACTURER standard. The new springs meet both standards.
All in my head? Yea maybe,, but the breaks work well now.
I must thank Cleveland for standing behind their products. I called on
a Monday morning and had the springs in my hand by Tuesday 0900 hours.
I would also like to thank the people that brought this to light on the
list.
Mark Graf
N71CG RV-6 150 hp
Denver CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Corsair" <tinckler(at)axionet.com> |
Here we go again, opening a hornet's nest, but I would like your opinion on
the use of Mogas for a 150 hp Lyc......A fellow builder did a test wherein
he put some autogas in a big jar and immersed two pieces of aluminum joined
together with Proseal, and left it there for two years. After this time, he
took the test pieces out and found he could roll the Proseal off like gum
with his fingernail. Well, hell's bells, nobody thereafter wanted to use
mogas for fear of losing the seals and springing leaks in the tanks.
I know that some of you use avgas in one tank and mogas in the other,
and that the chief worry is alcohol in the gas in Winter. Now, I did say
that I was talking about 150 hp engines, but I have it on good authority
that those of you with 160 hp can use mogas too if you use a higher octane
like 91 for instance.
I have been using mogas with good results but in all fairness, I
must say that it has not been for a long period of time. What do I know
about the seals etc. ? Too early to tell.
Any long time users out there ? Any opinions ? Any flames ?
Some of us were born cheap and will never get any better. I don't even bore
around with a high throttle setting, why should I ? From up here I can't
tell the difference between 145 mph and 175 mph as far as landscape going
by, and why should I burn 8 or 9 gph when I can have as much fun more often
by burning 6 ? Ergo, mogas is my pal.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Burlington, Colo. Fly-In |
>> Anyone know the date of the RV Fly-In at Burlington, Colorado?
>>
>
>Sat & Sun. 19-20 Sept.
>
Fooey . . . they picked the 3rd weekend in Sept again this year.
I'm going to the Walnut Valley Festival in Winfield, KS this
year, will have to forgo Burlington.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Holman" <bholman(at)fullcomp.com.au> |
Mogas is no longer an issue regarding price in Australia. Since we went to
location specific pricing for services and removed the surcharge on avgas
that was used to cross subsidise the flying schools and other operators
using towered airports, avgas in my town has dropped from 84c per litre to
71c per litre. Mogas costs 83c per litre.
No doubt 71c per litre is still a lot dearer than in the US. Brian
I know that some of you use avgas in one tank and mogas in the other,
> and that the chief worry is alcohol in the gas in Winter. Now, I did say
> that I was talking about 150 hp engines, but I have it on good authority
> that those of you with 160 hp can use mogas too if you use a higher
octane
> like 91 for instance.
> I have been using mogas with good results but in all fairness, I
> must say that it has not been for a long period of time. What do I know
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pbennett(at)zip.com.au |
> I just thought that all of you holding _short springs_ in your hands
> would like to know you are having hallucinations, fueled by the
> internet. Seems the real problem is where you drill the weldment
> for the master cylinder attach hardware.
Horsefeathers!!!! The springs are short, probably in my case because
I cycled the master cylinders checking for clearance between cylinder
and pedal weldment. They don't return to their full length if fully
compressed.
> replacement springs. Those of you who did use them: did they work?
Yes!!! But I'll probably cripple the new ones bleeding the brakes. In
that case I'll stretch the mothers - as per AC 43.13-1A of course!
Peter Bennett
Sydney Australia
RV6 doing cowls
Sufficient without being anal.
Peter Bennett
Sydney Australia
RV6 doing cowls
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick & Barbara Osgood" <randbosgood(at)SprintMail.com> |
| Subject: | I have a hotel room in oshkosh that's available |
Hello listers,
I made a reservation for a hotel in Oshkosh last year for this year.
This past week I received my reservation card with the statement that
the minimum stay was 5 days and $100.00 per day. I can not stay 5 days
and I am not paying $300.00 for the wasted time. So, if anyone needs
this room the arrival starts the 31st and runs 5 days. Contact me off list
for details
Rick Osgood
randbosgood(at)sprintmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Thomas <wd_thomas(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Foam for seat cushions |
Medical supply houses that cater to wheelchair-bound individuals are a good source
for material akin to Temperform. It goes by different brand names. Suggest you
use the yellow pages, make a few calls, tell them what you are looking for, and
I'll bet you find a "Temperfoam" that is cheaper and works like the original!
Bill Thomas
Finishing fuselage in jig
A20driver(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Need guidance on where to buy foam for seat cushions...Can't recall name of
> foam similiar to Temperfoam but lot less in price and where to get it....Would
> appreciate help....Thanks--Jim Brown, NJ
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mills, Trevor R" <MillsTR(at)az1.bp.com> |
I have not long ago closed all the controls on my tail kit to find the
overlaping edge is facing up on my left elevator. ie. the water will
run into the joint not over. As George O. in his video explains all
overlaps on the trim tabs should be folded bottom tab first to allow
water to run over the joint.
As I live in a corrosive area I don't feel happy with this.
Question. Have I just got a problem skin or is this common, if so
how should I deal with it.
Thank You.
Trevor Mills 80605
waiting on wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rimbold <rimbold(at)ntr.net> |
| Subject: | Easy ProSeal removal method |
After sealing one of the fuel tanks on our RV-6A, and allowing it time
to cure, it was time to clean up the "extra" sealant. There was
plenty of it in areas where the fuel tank skin needs to fit flush
against something else. Putting masking tape on these areas before
sealing, and then removing it while the sealant is still wet is an
idea that I hadn't had before I applied the sealant. Hindsight is
a wonderful thing. :-)
I started out using a sharpened hobby (aka popsicle) stick to scrape
away the hardened sealant. I then used some lacquer thinner to clean
away the residue. This would have taken hours.
I decided to try a Dremel (hand-held rotary tool) and the small
wire wheel that comes with it. It works like magic, removing the
dried sealant in an instant, but not doing more to the aluminum skin
than a Scotchbrite wheel. It's easy to control in curved places, too.
The wheel is made of very fine stainless wire, and leaves the skin
smooth. Best of all, there's no need to mess around with solvents.
--
--------
Rob Rimbold
rimbold(at)ntr.net
RV-6A, Wings and gear on fuse, upside down in jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MLaboyteau(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna Location |
<< How many folks fly with two antennas for Comm?? A simple coaxial switch
would
do the trick. It is more bother, more drag, more expense, and more weight,
BUT, it would work nicely.
Jim Nice
RV6A
WA State >>
I have two bent whip comm antennas on the belly, just forward of the rear
spar. The airfield I fly out of is 4.5 nm from Tulsa Int. airport, and I have
been able to contact Tulsa approach while holding short for takeoff at my home
field. During testing of my radios with a VSWR/WATT meter I borrowed from a
ham operator, my worst vswr's were at each end of the comm band and were no
higher than 1.5/1. The power output were just the opposite, highest in the
center of the comm band and slightly lower at each end. My #1 radio is a
Garmin GNC-300 gps/comm, and is rated at a minimum of 5 watts. The highest
measured 7.5 watts, and lowest was 4.5 watts. My #2 radio is a Terra 760D,
rated for 5 watts minimum, and it measured almost exactly what the Garmin
measured.
One other note, I built a VOR antenna based on the dimensions from Bob
Nuckolls Aeroelectric Connection, and installed it in my right wingtip. I've
been able to tune to a vor that the gps said was 85 nm away. The only thing
I've noticed is that during a flat turn, there's a dead spot at a 45 degree
angle off of the aft wingtip. It only lasts for about 5~7 degrees, but I
haven't tried this same check with a closer vor yet. I am also using this
antenna for my localizer/glideslope antenna through a splitter, but I haven't
done any ILS approaches yet to test it out.
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV "The Silver Streak!"
MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
Broken Arrow, Ok
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna Location |
Original message:
<< Ahh, that close to the metal of the gear will likely detune the antenna in
a very major way. >>>> very true. the question is: how much?<<<<
Another alternative might be to go straight back with the
whole length, using the gear as a ground. But the radiation of that would
be mostly horizontally polarized, as the NAV signals are, and not optimal
for the COM function.>>>> i agree completely.<<<<
I wonder how much drag a 1/4 wave out the bottom has anyway. I suppose
one could estimate it by holding an antenna out in the air at cruise. If
it were 2 pounds, then
that could be compared to the total drag of the RV6 at cruise.
>>> Someone on the list awhile back said the drag of a Van's boarding step was
in fact negligible (0.5 mph penalty?) In retrospect I am not sure my effort
to reduce comm antenna drag was at all worth it. The design you suggest here
is probably fine and good (best?)<<<
My guess is you need to lengthen it. >>> My guess is the opposite, since
capacative coupling usually tends to lower the resonant frequency of a quarter
wave radiator. At least that has been my experience over years of trying to
make eight-foot whips radiate well at 3.5 and 7 Mhz in the car. My VHF/UHF
experience, admittedly, has been nearly all plug-and-play :-( <<<
You might try a clip lead on the tip of the antenna with 2, 4, or 6 inches of
wire on it, and plot the change with each. This would give you something to
try while waiting for the SWR meter, which would be the better test to make.
>>>I must get one of those bridges like Bob rents out. That will come in
handy over the next fifty years of antenna farming ! (Ed. note: this is a
compulsive ritual practiced by all _true_ ham radio nuts - each year you
string up miles of wire and/or towers of dizzying height and exorbitant cost.
If the antennas survive the winter weather that year and are still standing in
the Spring, they are deemed not to have been large enough. Go figure.)<<<
I rather doubt loading the gear would work well. The big hunk of metal on
the end would complicate things, especially since it somethings gets close
to the ground.
>>>Yeah, I thought about doing that...<<<
How about a half wavelength large copper wire down the rear edge of the
fiberglass fairing and connected to the gear at the other end. When
tuned, by having the right length, it should have mostly vertical
polarization and a low impedance feed point. This is just a wild untested
idea.
>>> So, go test it. I've done my share of R&D - it's your turn. Tell us how
it works out :-) <<<
Antennas in the wingtips should be relatively easy, but the common designs
would give horizontal polarization, optomized for NAV but not for COM.
By the way, given the importance of communication, I would be inclined to
install the usual antenna out the bottom between the gear. Experimenting
with these other alternatives would be fun, but communication capability
should not be neglected.
Charles
>>>> I suppose, all things considered, I am communicating fine; except on the
ramp when waiting for takeoff clearance sometimes...<<<
Bill Boyd
RV-6A flying
western VA
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Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 19:48:33 -0700
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
From: Charles Woodson <woodson(at)soe.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Antenna Location
Sender: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
Precedence: bulk
Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming care and feeding |
<< Bill
Referring back to your post about landing in your friends 2000 ft strip
and being concerned about being to close to the trees on the way out
and having a 4100 ft density altitude. My question is did you lean on
the ground before takeoff? If you did not you are being robbed of
quit allot of power at that density altitude.
Jerry Springer >>
That was BEFORE I drilled out the carb jet and reset the floats, which I
believe cured an over-lean condition, but yes, I did lean a tad on that T/O as
I did not realize the lean symptoms I already had. I recall leaning just rich
of peak static rpm before I made that takeoff. Plus I believe that if I had
had two mags at that time vs. the Electronic Ignition I was then using, I
would have had more HP at my disposal (at least the engine _sounds_ better
now; measurements will have to await another flight test.)
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Breakers-Thanks! |
Thanks for all of your input....I now have every possible combination for
breakers!
I plan on using Mooney circuit breaker/switches for everything that has a
switch and breakers for the rest...
thanks..
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
Protecting the Panel!
not cause any problems when it failed whether
turned on or not as fuel passed through it OK.
Has anyone else had such a failure?
Richard E. Bibb
RV-4 N144KT
Oak Hill, VA
rbibb(at)fore.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Tried to hot-plug a removable hard drive at about 1:30 yesterday
morning . . . and snorked it's boot sectors. Had backups for
99.5% of all our data but I did loose about a week to ten days
worth of e-mail threads.
If anyone has an ongoing conversation with me, please drop me
a note to bring me back into the loop. That ought to teach me
to turn the switch off first!!!!!
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
==========o00o=(_)=o00o==========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Farrar" <fourazjs(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Left Elevator |
Trevor, I noticed the same thing but I don't see how it could be done
differently as the one tab has the 90deg. bend in it and needs to go under
the other. Jeff Farrar, RV8A, Empennage done waiting for QB, Chandler, AZ
-----Original Message-----
From: Mills, Trevor R <MillsTR(at)az1.bp.com>
Date: Monday, July 13, 1998 5:47 AM
Subject: RV-List: Left Elevator
>
>I have not long ago closed all the controls on my tail kit to find the
>overlaping edge is facing up on my left elevator. ie. the water will
>run into the joint not over. >
>Thank You.
>
>Trevor Mills 80605
>waiting on wings.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Fogerson <rfogerson(at)baf.com> |
| Subject: | How Many Breakers? |
I ended up with 10 fuses on my main buss and 9 out of 10 fuse positions
on my essential buss for a total of 19. I used Bob Nuchols wiring
diagrams and assistance. I have had no problems from day one to now
with 56 hours and recommend his assistance. He's is very reasonable
with charges and can provide you with about everything you need. I have
never wired anything in my life and he made it simple
Rick Fogerson, 56 hours on an RV-6A
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Besing [mailto:rv8er(at)doitnow.com]
Sent: Saturday, July 11, 1998 10:57 PM
Subject: RV-List: How Many Breakers?
Could someone provide a list of which items need circuit breakers? I
see
many panels with 15-20 breakers and I can only count seven for me...
gps/comm
transponder
engine monitor
microencoder
navaid
alternator
electronic ignition
What else?
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB)Arizona
Panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.hsd.utc.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Boost Pump failure |
I have 1120 Hrs of flight operations on my RV-6A without any Facet pump
failures.....
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Richard Bibb [SMTP:rbibb(at)fore.com]
>Sent: Monday, July 13, 1998 10:10 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Fuel Boost Pump failure
>
>
>I just had my electric fuel boost pump (FACET unit sold by Van's for low
>pressure carbs) fail after 125 hours. Have not removed it yet but I can
>hear it "operating" in that I hear activity when I turn on the switch but it
>does not pump fuel. It did not cause any problems when it failed whether
>turned on or not as fuel passed through it OK.
>
>Has anyone else had such a failure?
>
>
>
>Richard E. Bibb
>RV-4 N144KT
>Oak Hill, VA
>rbibb(at)fore.com
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Boost Pump failure |
>
>I just had my electric fuel boost pump (FACET unit sold by Van's for low
>pressure carbs) fail after 125 hours. Have not removed it yet but I can
>hear it "operating" in that I hear activity when I turn on the switch but it
>does not pump fuel. It did not cause any problems when it failed whether
>turned on or not as fuel passed through it OK.
>
>Has anyone else had such a failure?
>
Normally, these pumps are like the Energizer bunny . . . they go,
and go and go . . . If you have no specific plans to use the failed
pump for warranty claim or do your own failure analysis, I'd like
to have it for disection and analysis in our shop. Report on same
to be shared with the list . . . AND with Facet.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Moe Colontonio <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Left Elevator |
If you really want to change it, drill out the pop rivets, cut off the tabs, and
make a rib to fit in there. Can't you seal it off with some proseal or something?
--
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
Mills, Trevor R wrote:
>
> I have not long ago closed all the controls on my tail kit to find the
> overlaping edge is facing up on my left elevator. ie. the water will
> run into the joint not over. As George O. in his video explains all
> overlaps on the trim tabs should be folded bottom tab first to allow
> water to run over the joint.
> As I live in a corrosive area I don't feel happy with this.
>
> Question. Have I just got a problem skin or is this common, if so
> how should I deal with it.
>
> Thank You.
>
> Trevor Mills 80605
> waiting on wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <dwalsh(at)ecentral.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Foam for seat cushions |
Robert D Fitton wrote:
>
>
> Is the only answer to Jim's question Becky Orndorff? Is the foam she
> uses similar to Temperfoam as he asked? I need to do my seats soon and am
> interested in the answer. Also, do we use the expensive stuff only of the seat
> bottom and not the back? Since we sit fairly erect in our aircraft is it
> reasonable to use a less costly foam in the seat backs?
I really like the Orndorffs and can gladly recommend all their products; however
based on my conversations and the literature I don't believe she uses temperfoam
in her cushions. She does sell a great set of cushions which fit RVs perfectly
and at a reasonable price.
D J Lauritsen, the brains behind Cleaveland, also sells seat sets and she does
use temperfoam, but only in limited quantities. The butt portion has a thin
layer of temperfoam on top a nd a thicker layer of what looks like urethane foam
on bottom. Her trade secret is just the right thickness of the temperfoam . Her
prices are also reasonable but higher than Becki's.
They both have marvelous products and are great people to work with. In the end
I made my choice mostly on personal preference of stlye!
D Walsh. 250 hours of solid comfort. (more solid in winter than in summer).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stall Warning |
I just ordered the AOA from Jim Frantz of Proprietary Software Systems.
You can view these at http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/LFrantz/
My dad is an ex-Marine fighter/carrier pilot and swears by AOA's. I have
been looking for one that is "affordable" (cough, cough, choke) that was a
bit more sophisticated and "in-my-face" than the Bacon Saver wind vane. I
wanted an AOA for obvious real stall warning but will also use it in
flying-by-the-numbers. I plan on using it to optimize landing
configurations, best ANGLE of climb, best ANGLE of glide and anything else
I can figure out. Since I got my IFR ticket, I am a true believer in
flying-by-the-numbers. I believe the AOA will be a real safety boost and
aid to precision flying. It will be mounting high and centered on my
panel.
Ross Mickey, Finishing Kit, Oregon
----------
> From: Charles A Rowbotham <carowbotham(at)Juno.com>
> Glenn,
>
> There was article in the May-98 issue of Sport Aviation, by Jim Frantz
> about his AOA system. I called him and discussed his article & system
> and was impressed. The retail price is $1450, but he is offering an
> Oshkosh special at $1200. IMO definitely worth your review.
>
> Jim can be reached at (612) 474-4154 or FRantz(at)compuserve.com
>
> Chuck Rowbotham
> RV-8A (awaiting QB)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
<< I had the "brake thing," too: groaning brakes and pedals that refused to
return to the fully upright position on the pax side. A call to Van's for
replacement springs elicited this helpful informnation: the brake spring
problem, according to the factory, is a hoax, an urban legend. Bendix is
giving away springs only because that is easier than arguing with demented RV
builders who are convinced the springs are defective. Now they have asked
Van's to take the pressure off further by becoming the distribution center
for
the not-really-needed replacement springs.>>
You can believe what you like. IMO, Cleveland's info is bogus. The springs
were too short and the new ones are long. It's possible that they will sack
out but we'll see over time.
<< I just thought that all of you holding _short springs_ in your hands would
like to know you are having hallucinations, fueled by the internet. Seems
the
real problem is where you drill the weldment for the master cylinder attach
hardware.>>
This is incorrect. The plans specify the positions but relay on the springs
to be under slight preload to start with. They weren't.
<< This would explain why the problem is unique to RV-6's and 6A's.
As an explanation for why new springs take care of the problem, it lacks a
little something.>>
What? My problem was completely solved by the correct springs.
<>
Absolutely. This isn't rocket science.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Spark Plug Gap? |
<< Does anyone know the correct spark plug gap on an 0-360 engine? >>
.018" for the massive plugs.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Vision Microsystems |
<< Does anyone have any experience with the "all in one" VM-1000 engine
monitor
system or their fuel indicating system? >>
I have the VM1000 system, but not the fuel indicating part. It works great
and would use it again. My understanding is that VM is working on a newer
system that will even be better but probably many more $$.
-GV
he impact of + and - G loads on the contactor. Correct? >>
IMO, Yes.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Boost Pump failure |
> I just had my electric fuel boost pump (FACET unit sold by Van's for low
> pressure carbs) fail after 125 hours.
Did you install the boost pump at an angle like the plans show? I
called the manufacturer about something else and asked them about pump
orientation as an aside, and they told me the pump life is much shorter
(on the order of hundreds of hours instead of thousands) if it's
installed horizontally. Something to do with the piston getting a flat
spot.
Since you only have 125 hours and probably don't run the pump
continuously I doubt that is the problem but it's something to keep in
mind.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Deal Fair" <dealfair(at)bcni.net> |
| Subject: | Navaid Devices, Inc. Inquiry |
Hi Listers,
I am making this inquiry for a buddy who isn't on the net. He is just
days from completing and testing a beautiful -4.
Problem is that he purchased an "autopilot/wing-leveler" from a business
named NAVAID DEVICES, INC. out of Chattanooga, TN. He has their address
and phone number; but, their telephone has been disconnected. We assume
they are out of business. My friend is seeking some technical advice for
final twixing.
If anyone has knowledge of this instrument or knows anyone with expertise,
please furnish me names and numbers off list so that my "bud" might contact
you or them.
Your assistance would be most appreciated!!!!!!!!!!
Deal Fair
RV-4 - flying
George West, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna Location |
Allan wrote:
> If you fly light planes out of controlled airports with ground control
> you need an antenna on the top of the plane.
Negative. I have one on top and one on bottom on my Deb. Each is connected to
its own radio. Twice in five years I had trouble contacting ground on #1 radio
which is connected to bottom ant. Turning the plane 90 degrees solved the
problem without switching to top antenna.
I put mine behind the gear legs (RV6A) but far enough forward to keep it out of
grass, gravel etc.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Deal Fair" <dealfair(at)bcni.net> |
----------
> From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Dear Mr. Nuckolls,
I just posted a message on the RV-List about a friend having dificulties
with a NAVAID DEVICES, INC. "autopilot/wing-levler". Seems the company is
out of business and my friend needs some "Electo-technical" advice. You
might be the answer to his prayers. (Actually Raquel Welch would be the
answer to his prayers, but you'd do in this matter.)
He needs to do some final "Twixing". I'm not exactly sure what his
problems are. You seem to be the electronic Guru (said with respect) on
the net. If you might be of some help, would you please funish me your
phone number for him. He will PAY for advice!
Thanks,
Deal Fair
George West, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Left Elevator |
Try Bondo...it worked on my rudder
Just kidding Scott!!!
Paul Besing
>
>If you really want to change it, drill out the pop rivets, cut off the
tabs, and
>make a rib to fit in there. Can't you seal it off with some proseal or
something?
>--
>Moe Colontonio
>moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
>Check out my RV-8 page at:
>http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
>
>Mills, Trevor R wrote:
>
>>
>> I have not long ago closed all the controls on my tail kit to find the
>> overlaping edge is facing up on my left elevator. ie. the water will
>> run into the joint not over. As George O. in his video explains all
>> overlaps on the trim tabs should be folded bottom tab first to allow
>> water to run over the joint.
>> As I live in a corrosive area I don't feel happy with this.
>>
>> Question. Have I just got a problem skin or is this common, if so
>> how should I deal with it.
>>
>> Thank You.
>>
>> Trevor Mills 80605
>> waiting on wings.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Fasching" <jfasching(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Squawks: GAS STRUTS |
>The factory was called when the problem first appeared; the strut
arrived 2
>weeks later. They were so quick to offer a free replacement that I
didn't
Well, good for you: when my gas struts (purchased from VANs died after
only 6 (yes, six!) openings, the manufactured denied even making them,
much less any offer of replacement. A lot of heavy complaints to someone
at Vans got me a replacement from them, but it was not pleasant!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Proud Builders |
> Isn't being called a 'lunatic homebuilder' the same as us calling them 'spam
> drivers'?
I'm a "lunatic homebuilder" AND a "spam driver". I wear both labels
with pride!
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com> |
| Subject: | Plug description for KX-155A |
Anyone know of where I can get a description of the pin out on a
KX-155a. I bought the unit used with no manual and while most of the
wires are intact, some were cut during the removal of the unit. For
example, the ones to the radio head. I know for an arm and leg I could
probably get one from King.
Gary
RV6A
Ronaoke, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Deal Fair" <dealfair(at)bcni.net> |
| Subject: | Navaid Devices, Inc. |
Dear John,
Thanks for the info. I apologize to NAVAID DEVICES, INC. for spreading the
untimely demise of their business.
I asked my friend if he dialed the right number. He replied that he had
tried several times. I don't believe he had been drinking. I know he
cannot see close range very well without his reading glasses.
He and I are both embarrasssed!
Thanks again for the help.
Deal Fair
George West, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: wiring rear nav light |
<< On my next RV I will put all the lights in the wingtip, this rudder
light stuff in a pain. >>
Craig
It's a real pain in the "rudder," huh?
Regards
Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
<< This is incorrect. The plans specify the positions but relay on the
springs
to be under slight preload to start with. They weren't.
<< This would explain why the problem is unique to RV-6's and 6A's.
As an explanation for why new springs take care of the problem, it lacks a
little something.>>
What? My problem was completely solved by the correct springs.
<>
Absolutely. This isn't rocket science.
-GV >>
Gary, and all: I am not arguing, just relaying what I was told by the
builders' helpline people ("Bill") at Van's. I thought you all ought to know
their latest official stance (which is considerably different from the latest
RVator theory about damage to the springs during bleeding.)
I'm glad to know the new springs work on this problem. Now I can order my new
set of four!
-BB
________________________________________________________________________________
I'm English, German, Irish, Dutch, and Swede, so very few ethnic jokes miss me
completely. I found it much easier to learn to giv'em a chuckle and go on, or
just hit the delete key. The individual I heard the best Polish jokes from,
was a Polish instructor I had in A&P school, and he thought they were
hilarious.
Those who learn to laugh at lifes vissisitudes, are generally a bit less up
tight about things, and one doesn't need to be too up tight when they are
building their chosen RV series of aircraft.
Regards
Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM
Rebuilding the "Junkyard Dog" RV-4 Kit
Memphis, Tennessee
Keep your sense of humor!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming care and feeding |
<< I want to be reminded how the mixture should be handled during ground ops,
T/O, climb, cruise at various power levels, descent, and so forth. I have
full instrumentation (EGTx4, CHTx4, MAP,etc) so be as detailed as you'd like
in terms of what point to lean to, etc. >>
Bill
Our engines breath the same thing we do, oxygen. When you get high enough that
it's difficult for you to breath, you have to add oxygen. I have been told
that flying below 10,000 feet,requires very little mixture adjustments. Going
above that point, however, your fuel mixture becomes too rich for proper
operation. It is at that point that leaning out the engine, will do the most
good.
The way I have come to understand, EGT is the most responsive of your
temperature measuring devices. Exhaust Gasses rise and abate in temperature
immediately, while CHT may lag behind for a few moments. I was taught that you
lean until your EGT peaks, then move the mixture control toward a rich
setting, until it drops slightly below peak. That way you are not running your
engine full hot, and you will not be running it too lean.
Regards
Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM
Rebuilding the "Junkyard Dog" RV-4 Kit
Memphis, Tennessee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Rathbun" <meanuncl(at)sprynet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Left Elevator |
I had the same thing so I looked down the line at Arlington. There were
several RV's that way so I'm assuming it will be OK. The leading edge is
far enough into the HS it was hard to see on most so is covered from the
weather.
RV8 also waiting on wings
>
> I have not long ago closed all the controls on my tail kit to find the
> overlaping edge is facing up on my left elevator. ie. the water will
> run into the joint not over. As George O. in his video explains all
> overlaps on the trim tabs should be folded bottom tab first to allow
> water to run over the joint.
> As I live in a corrosive area I don't feel happy with this.
>
> Question. Have I just got a problem skin or is this common, if so
> how should I deal with it.
>
> Thank You.
>
> Trevor Mills 80605
> waiting on wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid Devices, Inc. Inquiry |
> Problem is that he purchased an "autopilot/wing-leveler" from a business
>named NAVAID DEVICES, INC. out of Chattanooga, TN. He has their address
>and phone number; but, their telephone has been disconnected. We assume
>they are out of business. My friend is seeking some technical advice for
>final twixing.
>
> If anyone has knowledge of this instrument or knows anyone with expertise,
>please furnish me names and numbers off list so that my "bud" might contact
>you or them.
Just checked with Jeff Rose in Chattanooga, he tells me that
Navaid Devices is alive and well at:
Richard Ray
Navaid Devices
641 N MARKET ST
CHATTANOOGA TN 37405-3914
423-267-3311
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< If you continue to do >
< What you've always done >
< You will continue to be >
< What you've always been. >
=================================
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
| Subject: | Plug description for KX-155A |
Gary,
Go to your local Avionics shop, act humble, describe your problem and
that you are a homebuilder; then ask if you can make a copy of the pin
diagram for the KX-155. It worked for me.
Good luck!
Ken Harrill
RV- 6, fuselage
Anyone know of where I can get a description of the pin
out on a
KX-155a. I bought the unit used with no manual and
while most of the
wires are intact, some were cut during the removal of
the unit. For
example, the ones to the radio head. I know for an arm
and leg I could
probably get one from King.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gar Pessel <pessel(at)ptialaska.net> |
| Subject: | top longeron cutoff for qb6 |
Sorry to ask this question again, but I have searched the archives, found
that I am not the only one to have had the problem, but never found a reply
to the list.
The qb comes with the top longerons extending about 3 inches back of F612,
placing it obviously in the way for mounting the VS. I have searched the
plans, directions, etc. of both the preview and qb plans, but can find no
reference to trimming these items This concerns me because in the qb,
these are rivetted in place, and cutting them off without damaging the
adjacent bulkhead and skin would be a delicate operation, to say the least.
Van's told me to look in the preview plans. Been there, done that, no joy.
Gar Pessel, Fairbanks AK (building empennage for qb6)
________________________________________________________________________________
THANKS WINDELL
SCOTT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Thomas <wd_thomas(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Boost Pump failure |
I have had a facet pump in a homebuilt (not an RV) for many years, and on several
occasions I mistakenly thought it had failed. It was making the usual clacking
noise, but was pumping nothing. Turns out it had lost its prime. Once re-primed,
it continued to work A-OK. Maybe yours isn't actually broken????
Bill Thomas
Richard Bibb wrote:
>
> I just had my electric fuel boost pump (FACET unit sold by Van's for low
> pressure carbs) fail after 125 hours. Have not removed it yet but I can
> hear it "operating" in that I hear activity when I turn on the switch but it
> does not pump fuel. It did not cause any problems when it failed whether
> turned on or not as fuel passed through it OK.
>
> Has anyone else had such a failure?
>
> Richard E. Bibb
> RV-4 N144KT
> Oak Hill, VA
> rbibb(at)fore.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Left Elevator |
Things would have turned out a bit different had the elevators not been
built upside down:( The flanged portion of the leading edge on the
elevators is the bottom which allows the top skin to curve over and lay on
top of the the bottom portion.
Trevor, I'd probably apply a little sealer to the "upside down edge". If
you can find someone with a little left over proseal, I think this would
work well for you.
Bob Skinner RV-6 425 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
>Trevor, I noticed the same thing but I don't see how it could be done
>differently as the one tab has the 90deg. bend in it and needs to go under
>the other. Jeff Farrar, RV8A, Empennage done waiting for QB, Chandler, AZ
>>
>>I have not long ago closed all the controls on my tail kit to find the
>>overlaping edge is facing up on my left elevator. ie. the water will
>>run into the joint not over. >
>>Trevor Mills 80605
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
| Subject: | Megellan EC-10X GPS |
Has anyone bought a Megellan EC-10X GPS? Would like to know if you are
happy with it. I have all the data from the factory, but how would a guy
drive it be I buy it. I guess I will have to go to OSK.
Don Jordan ~ 76DJ ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Craig-Stearman <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Left Elevator |
Trevor,
Don't worry about it. If your bent edges look like mine, there is an
opening at the extreme trailing edge that will allow water to drain. If
not, just drill a couple of drain holes in the elevator bottom and call it
good.
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraigst(at)ionet.net
RV-4 50TC (reserved) mounting the engine
>
>I have not long ago closed all the controls on my tail kit to find the
>overlaping edge is facing up on my left elevator. ie. the water will
>run into the joint not over. As George O. in his video explains all
>overlaps on the trim tabs should be folded bottom tab first to allow
>water to run over the joint.
>As I live in a corrosive area I don't feel happy with this.
>
>Question. Have I just got a problem skin or is this common, if so
>how should I deal with it.
>
>Thank You.
>
>Trevor Mills 80605
>waiting on wings.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: top longeron cutoff for qb6 |
I do not recall the drawing number, but it is there...I had the same
problem on my QB and looked forever, and found that it extends just past
F-612 (no measurements but I think I cut mine about 1/8" past F-612)...lost
of cutting and filing, have fun! I have since mounted my vs and rudder,
and that worked out fine...
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB)
Panel
>
>Sorry to ask this question again, but I have searched the archives, found
>that I am not the only one to have had the problem, but never found a reply
>to the list.
>
>The qb comes with the top longerons extending about 3 inches back of F612,
>placing it obviously in the way for mounting the VS. I have searched the
>plans, directions, etc. of both the preview and qb plans, but can find no
>reference to trimming these items This concerns me because in the qb,
>these are rivetted in place, and cutting them off without damaging the
>adjacent bulkhead and skin would be a delicate operation, to say the least.
>
>Van's told me to look in the preview plans. Been there, done that, no joy.
>
>Gar Pessel, Fairbanks AK (building empennage for qb6)
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming care and feeding |
>ask my list buddies for instruction in the proper handling of
>the mixture control during engine break-in (14 hrs SMOH) and during all phases
>of flight. I want to be reminded how the
>mixture should be handled during ground ops, T/O, climb, cruise at various
>power levels, descent, and so forth. I have full instrumentation (EGTx4,
>CHTx4, MAP,etc) so be as detailed as you'd like in terms of what point to lean
>to, etc.
>Bill Boyd
>RV-6A flying (smoothly at last!) Wonder what the red knob does............
>Western Virginia
Bill,
For break in, I operated my engine at mostly at 75% power, varying the
rpms in cruise every 30 minutes or so. There are some who think varying
rpms is a good idea even after the engine is broken in but now, at 425
hours, I generally leave the throttle alone. Of course, with a fixed pitch
prop out here in the west with all of the thermal activity, the rpms tend to
flucuate a bit:)
I lean during all engine operations: when taxiing out, run up, for best
power on high density altitude take offs, at cruise and after landing and
taxiing back in. I also run the engine up to 1,200 rpms for 30 seconds
before shut down. This temperature range supposedly helps scavange the lead
out & help prevent plug fouling. I service spark plugs every 50 hours and
have a very small amount of lead accumulation in the bottom plugs that are
easily removed with a dental pick. Top plugs are clean as a whistle. I
burn 100 LL.
When breaking in, I tried to err on the side of too rich, especially on
take off. I made shallow climb outs to keep things cool. My oil
consumption stabilized after 10 hours or so. This was with steel cylinders.
Bob Skinner RV-6 425 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The Mecca of engines!-Proud |
Dear Dave,
Have Van make up some realistic cards to pass out and I will certainly pass
out my share!
Dave Pann, hoping for Sep-Oct up-up and away!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael L. Weller" <midibu(at)mindspring.com> |
At 09:23 AM 7/13/98, you wrote:
>
>Tried to hot-plug a removable hard drive at about 1:30 yesterday
>morning . . . and snorked it's boot sectors.
Well Robert, at least it wasn' from the late Robert "I work on 'em hot"
Nuckolls.
This is kind of "on-topic" because I was USAF trained. It was a religion
to go through the "power off, watches and rings off". I do find my own
checklist like that more and more infrequently. I am pretty scared when I
work on anything over 18 volts. A few years ago I wouldn't feel
uncomfortable working with the line to the house making a new 240
connector. Times have changed.
You have given a lot of good advice to this group.
Keep up the good work.
Mike Weller
Mike Weller
midibu(at)mindspring.com (preferred) or michael.l.weller(at)lmco.com
RV-8 (under construction)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Craig-Stearman <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing tip designs |
>
>I suspect wing tips have a noticeable influence on efficiency and other
>flight characteristics of a RV.
True. As I recall from aeronautical engineering classes (about ten years
ago) we devoted much attention to wing tip design.
>
>(1) For example, wouldn't a rounded wing tip (WW2 Spitfire) be more
>efficient? By how much?
Not necessarily. The "ideal" wing lift distribution was historically
thought to be an eliptical distribution. That is, the amount of lift
produced along the wing should be greatest at the center, decreasing
elliptically toward the tips. This lift distribution was assigned an
Oswald's efficiency of 1.0. One way to achieve this is to use an
elliptical wing planform like that of the Spitfire. However, this is an
expensive and difficult shape to produce in the real world. Real-world
designers can compromise the wing shape and accept an Oswald's efficiency
less than 1.0. While I was studying aero engineering at the Air Force
Academy (c. 1987), recent experiments had shown that wing tips shaped like
shark's fins could produce an Oswald's efficiency greater than 1.0. John
Sharpe's Nemesis racer uses tips like these. The Aircraft Spruce catalog
has a good planform picture of Nemesis that shows his wing tips.
>
>(2) Also, I seem to recall people putting end plates on clipped wings of
>J3's and reporting great improvement in stall speed and other
>characteristics.
Possibly. One should always take reports of great improvements with a
grain of salt, however. Remember that the airplane owner who has just
spent a great deal of money and effort WANTs to see a performance gain, and
therefore tends to exaggerate any improvement.
>
>(3) People are spending lots of money for drooped wing tips to speed up
>Cessnas.
I don't think these tips are supposed to increase cruise speed. They can
improve low-speed controllability and delay the onset of stall. That was
our experience with drooped tips on my father's 1967 Cessna 172. If
anything we saw a slight decrease in cruise speed. The slight decrease in
takeoff distance was worth the trade-off in a 4-seat airplane with a
145-horse engine.
Van's wing tips are actually quite good. I don't think anyone but serious
racers will see enough improvement from tinkering with wing tip designs to
be worth the effort. I did notice that he used a different tip shape on
the new RV-9. The curvature is on the top side rather than the bottom. As
the RV-9 performance numbers are very impressive, I wonder whether we will
see this new tip shape offered for the other RVs? Until then, I suggest
using the new two-piece wheel pants to gain speed.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraigst(at)ionet.net
RV-4 50TC (reserved) mounting the engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Hiers <craig-RV4(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Boost Pump failure |
Randall Henderson wrote:
>
>
> > I just had my electric fuel boost pump (FACET unit sold by Van's for low
> > pressure carbs) fail after 125 hours.
>
> Did you install the boost pump at an angle like the plans show? I
> called the manufacturer about something else and asked them about pump
> orientation as an aside, and they told me the pump life is much shorter
> (on the order of hundreds of hours instead of thousands) if it's
> installed horizontally. Something to do with the piston getting a flat
> spot.
>
> Since you only have 125 hours and probably don't run the pump
> continuously I doubt that is the problem but it's something to keep in
> mind.
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
> Portland, OR
> http://www.edt.com/homewing
> randall(at)edt.com
>
Randall
I got my fuel pump through Aircraft Spruce, I did not see any plans
with it. It's mounted horizontal, I hope I don't have a problem!
I could change it, but that would be pain in the A##.
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH
Tallahassee, FL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Foam for seat cushions |
Just wanted all to know that I will build seats from temperfoam or clones
if that is what the builder wants. George and I have experimented with lots
of different foams and cushion configurations to find what we are happy to fly
on. We have found the angle of the seat seems to be much more important than
the foam it is made from. All foams have their benefits and drawbacks.
Mostly it is personal preference. Please call us if you have questions or
need more interior information.
Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: top longeron cutoff for qb6 |
> The qb comes with the top longerons extending about 3 inches back of F612,
> placing it obviously in the way for mounting the VS. I have searched the
> plans, directions, etc. of both the preview and qb plans, but can find no
> reference to trimming these items This concerns me because in the qb,
> these are rivetted in place, and cutting them off without damaging the
> adjacent bulkhead and skin would be a delicate operation, to say the least.
>
> Van's told me to look in the preview plans. Been there, done that, no joy.
Dwg. 34, "Top View" shows the longerons trimmed even with the aft
bulkhead.
I trimmed mine a little differently -- left the vertical leg of the
angle back to where the skin ends, but trimmed the horizontal (flat) leg
off back to the bulkhead. I think I still had to bevel the vertical leg
a bit to clear the rudder. The extra bit of longeron aft of the
bulkhead was nice to have as it gave me a little more "meat" to rivet
the rudder control stops to.
Yes it is tricky either way to trim these without messing up the skin or
bulkhead, but it can be done. Non-QBers often run unto the same thing
unless they think of it before the fuse is skinned (I didn't).
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aeronut <aeronut(at)mci2000.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Linear amplifier |
You wrote:
>Can anyone tell us what effect of the proximity of the ground has on the
>SWR of a bottom mounted antenna. It would have some influence I suspect
>as other antenna mounted too close can affect SWR. Therefore would it be
>more useful to check the SWR in the air
Brian
My experience, over 48 years of ham radio, is that ground proximity will
have some effect on SWR (though in this respect the difference between
antennas located on the top of the plane and its belly probably won't make
much difference at VH frequencies).
I was trained to calculate antenna fields but after periods of youthful
exhuberance gave it up. Cut and try is still the only sure way with most
real world antenna installations.
If you can, make your measurements in the air.
George
KK6VL
RV-8 #80006
________________________________________________________________________________
ETAsAhQxb/WF+C0rDIaC4HEeefqLSJS1YwIUGGOCD0YndNAdfUtQWeQLZLyRAjc=
| From: | BrooksRV6(at)webtv.net (Chris Brooks) |
| Subject: | Re:stall warning |
Glenn, the stall warning switch mentioned in the RVator WAS available
from D.W. Richardson in the UK. Unfortunately Mr. Richardson has since
deceased and the switches are no longer available.
Chris Brooks
RV6 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | QB Longeron-F-612 |
I got home and realized it was 7/8"....sorry...previously I think I said
1/8" inch...
Paul Besing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Fasching" <jfasching(at)hotmail.com> |
Recent posting and SA article on angle of attack (AOA) indicators
prompted me to cast about on the internet. Found a excellent book-length
site with GREAT info on AOA. Punch into;
http://www.eurofly.co.uk/european/flyschool.13htm lots of good
information on AOA and other flying stuff.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Boost Pump failure |
> Randall
> I got my fuel pump through Aircraft Spruce, I did not see any plans
> with it. It's mounted horizontal, I hope I don't have a problem!
> I could change it, but that would be pain in the A##.
>
> Craig Hiers
> RV-4 N143CH
The plans I'm talking about are Van's RV-6 plans, specifically pg. 49
"Fuel and brake systems". I don't know if the RV-4 plans show anything
like this. My pump did have instructions with it and I think they
mentioned this but I'm not sure.
But as I said in my previous post, the Facet rep told me they should
still last "hundreds" of hours if installed horizontally. The pumps are
designed to be run continuously in autos, so in that case it could be an
issue I guess, but since we only turn them on for takeoff and landing
I don't suppose it's really a big issue.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dragon <wizard(at)tartarus.uwa.edu.au> |
| Subject: | A407-aileron bracket - RV6A |
hi guys, while drilling the holes for the ailerons bracket, on one side
the drill hole is greatly out of alignment. This was done using a drill
press and drilled straight through. Is the bracket still be able to
used or a new bracket have to be fabricated?
The hole is out of alignment when you look at the bracket from the front
of the wing. The span wise alignment is OK.
I think the ball in the W613 can compensate for this misalignment. Any
suggestions?
Heng
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Camera in the VS? |
Has anyone ever mounted, or seen, a camera in an RV? I'm thinking of
putting one in my VS. Any suggestions?
Also, I've got a friend who bought a Dragonfly out in California. He's
looking for somebody with some dragonfly time to fly it back to NJ with
him. He'll pay airfare and all other expenses, plus extra. The plane is
a taildragger, with the wheels outboard. Email me personally at the
address below if you want more info.
I've also added a new section to my page called "Why build?". It
outlines my reasons for building a kitplane vs buying a spam can. Let me
know what you all think.
--
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming care and feeding |
I was taught to lean to rough and then rich to smooth. Works great and you
don't need any gauges. I have done this enough that I can just use the fuel
flow to set the mixture without even getting to rough. I have the Rocky Mt.
engine instrument system. Sometimes simple is better than complicated. I
think that this is one of those times. A really old time pilot speaks from
experience.
Jim Cone
RV-6A was flying until smashed flat by tornado.
RV-6QB builder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Camera in the VS? |
MoeJoe wrote:
>
>
> Has anyone ever mounted, or seen, a camera in an RV? I'm thinking of
> putting one in my VS. Any suggestions?
>
> Also, I've got a friend who bought a Dragonfly out in California. He's
> looking for somebody with some dragonfly time to fly it back to NJ with
> him. He'll pay airfare and all other expenses, plus extra. The plane is
> a taildragger, with the wheels outboard. Email me personally at the
> address below if you want more info.
>
> I've also added a new section to my page called "Why build?". It
> outlines my reasons for building a kitplane vs buying a spam can. Let me
> know what you all think.
> --
> Moe Colontonio
> moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
>
Moe,
I've been investigating this since I started building and have yet to
find a good
source for "lipstick" cameras. I've even tried emailing the EAA Video
dept. with no joy.
I did buy a new surplus color video camera that was made for IBM by
Panasonic to be
used for video conferencing. It runs off of 12V and the camera is only
about 2.5" square.
I could probably take it out of the case and make it smaller.
My other idea is to make a mount to fit in the wing where the
taxi/landing light is
and remote control it with a remote side mirror type of affair from a
later model car.
These move the side view mirrors in cars in two axis and could probably
work for an
application like that.
Try contacting "Supercircuits" out of Leander ,Texas 1-800-335-9777
They have a nice catalog of miniature cameras and video accessories.
Ed Cole RV6A Skinning Fuselage
emcole(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <glenng(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Camera in the VS? |
Moe,
I recently had a thread going on the RV-list on the same subject. I thought the
video on the Van's demo tape was pretty neat. Anyways, it turns out that the
video company that did the taping for the demo tape used what is called a
"Lipstick Camera". They taped it onto the V-stab for the temporary installation.
I was hoping to put a camera into the fiberglass tip of my V-stab so I could also
take videos. As it turns out, if I was to get the line of sight of the camera
inline with the flight path of the airplane, I would have to mount it at an angle
negative to the top edge of the metal on the V-stab. The fiberglass tip would
not
accomodate this installation so I have put the project on hold for now.
If I pick up on the project (after my plane is flying), I will probably mount the
camera into the landing light bay. I don't think the view will be as interesting,
but it is certainly an easier installation.
One of the news choppers that flys out of PWK has a lipstick camera back on the
tail. They have mounted their camera into a Mini Maglight housing. A very clever
install! It makes getting to the camera real easy, plus it protects it from the
elements.
There are several manufacturers of these cameras. Sony make a high $$ one. They
run about $400-$800 for a color camera.
-Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Farrar" <fourazjs(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Angle of Attack |
John, I got an error that this URL is no good. Could you recheck? Thanks,
Jeff Farrar, RV8A, Empennage done waiting for QB, Chandler, AZ
-----Original Message-----
From: John Fasching <jfasching(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Monday, July 13, 1998 5:59 PM
Subject: RV-List: Angle of Attack
>
>Recent posting and SA article on angle of attack (AOA) indicators
>prompted me to cast about on the internet. Found a excellent book-length
>site with GREAT info on AOA. Punch into;
>http://www.eurofly.co.uk/european/flyschool.13htm lots of good
>information on AOA and other flying stuff.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
>I'm curious...who tells the jokes about the Americans? Everyone?
In my experience, the Europeans who make deriding comments about Americans
and this great country of ours are the ones who have not spent time here.
With absolutely no exceptions, the Europeans I've met who have spent some
time here (more than just a week of vacation) all wish dearly that they
could come live here permenantly.
I've traveled in almost evry western European country and a little bit in
the Pacific rim, and in my opinion, there is no place like the good old
U.S. of A. I can't sing "America the Beautiful" or our national anthem
without getting tears in my eyes.
>I've heard multiple spam-can-happy CFI's laughing about
>jokes about homebuilders. Same thing?
No, I don't think so. That is just a problem with lasck of education - A
problem which is OUR responsibility to solve.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
RV-6 sn 23744 N601DB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Angle of Attack |
http://www.eurofly.co.uk/european/flyschool/3.htm
>John, I got an error that this URL is no good. Could you recheck? Thanks,
>Jeff Farrar, RV8A, Empennage done waiting for QB, Chandler, AZ
>>Recent posting and SA article on angle of attack (AOA) indicators
>>prompted me to cast about on the internet. Found a excellent book-length
>>site with GREAT info on AOA. Punch into;
>>http://www.eurofly.co.uk/european/flyschool.13htm lots of good
>>information on AOA and other flying stuff.
I snooped around the eurofly.co.uk site and found the correct URL.
http://www.eurofly.co.uk/european/flyschool/3.htm
Note that the previous URL was correct except for the "1" instead of a "/"
after flyschool.
Enjoy, this looks like a nice site with lots of pilot info.
Bob Steward, A&P IA
AA-1B N8978L
AA-5A N1976L
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karl Ahamer" <ascot(at)hinet.net.au> |
| Subject: | vaccum regulator |
hi listers,i have the following question:
i have 2 gyros each one needing 4.5-5.2 inch Hg suction.the regulator i
bought has two outlets(better inlets)and is set to 5.9 inch Hg
as it came.it will be mounted on the firewall so it will be hard to get to
it once it lives there.could i adjust the regulator before it gets
in there by using a vacuum cleaner as a source and do i have to connect the
gyros when i do this.or should i run my gyros on 5.9inches?
Karl Ahamer RV6AQ getting close to first engine run
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Left Elevator |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
writes:
>
>I have not long ago closed all the controls on my tail kit to find the
>overlaping edge is facing up on my left elevator. ie. the water will
>run into the joint not over. As George O. in his video explains all
>overlaps on the trim tabs should be folded bottom tab first to allow
>water to run over the joint.
>
The trim tab is a closed assembly. Water that got inside could be
trapped.
Look at the elevator. Any water that goes through the gap in the L.E.
skin is trapped know where. It is in the open area between the spar and
the L.E. and will drain right out. If you are worried about corrosion
between the two sides of the L.E. skin then having put sealant between
the skins is probably the only thing that would have kept it totally dry.
I personally wouldn't worry about it.
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Hyde <hyde(at)bcl.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Camera in the VS? |
>>
>> Has anyone ever mounted, or seen, a camera in an RV? I'm thinking of
>> putting one in my VS. Any suggestions?
>>
SNIP
At a flyin I watched some guys attach a small self-contained camcorder to
the VS of a plane. Basically, their mount consisted of a u-shaped piece of
aluminum bolted to the back of the camera, which was mounted to the front
of the VS with a large amount of duct tape.
I stared in disbelief while they insisted that they had done it many times
before, and they did, indeed come up with some shots of aerobatic
maneuvers. Nobody got killed, and the camera was still on the plane when
it landed.
As small as the camera is that you are talking about, it probably wouldn't
be that hard to make a bracket to mount it to, and if you only used it
occasionally, you could probably live with the increase in drag when you
had it on.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Quick" <paulq(at)global.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re: throttle/mixture and prop governor brackets |
hi ,would like a look at those throttle plans. regards paul quick.
----------
> From: JNice51355(at)aol.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: throttle/mixture and prop governor brackets
> Date: Friday, July 10, 1998 6:16 AM
>
>
>
> << Gary VanRemortel's throttle/mixture and prop governor bracket plans
are now
> available on my web page. >>
> By the way, Gary is now at EAA Northwest fly-in. I have not spotted him,
but
> I have had a look at his "bird". It is a very nice one, INDEEDY!!
> Jim Nice
> RV6A
> WA State
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelli Lewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
My tires are tired. Looking at Michelin or Goodyear. Which model of each are
the good ones that fit main gear on an RV-4 with the original wheel pants?
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvbldr3170(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Plumbing air compressor |
In a message dated 7/10/98 11:49:21 AM Eastern Daylight Time, AcroII(at)aol.com
writes:
<< There's been lots of discussion on this on either the woodworking or
metalworking newsgroups. Try a search with Dejanews. But to summarize, many
people use PVC, a few have had it burst and send plastic fragments around.
For this reason some are strongly against PVC. >>
If you have any questions about this you should contact the PVC manufacturers,
they DO NOT recommend using PVC for compressed air. As I said before, the
state of Ohio Pressure Piping Code does not allow us to use air even to test
PVC pipe. I install piping systems for a living, and if you use PVC for
compressed air you are asking for trouble. Oil in compressed air (and it is
inevitably going to have oil in it) will degrade the PVC, and over a period of
time (how long depends upon how much oil) it will become a bomb waiting to go
off.
If you have ever seen pipe with 100 psi explode, even if it doesn't hurt you
it will sure scare the s**t out of you !!
More than just a good idea - it's the law in Ohio
Regards, Merle (RV-4 Chevy re-fabricating the mount) Miller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fran Malczynski <fmalczy(at)ibm.net> |
| Subject: | RV-List A407-aileron bracket - RV6A |
Dragon, I tried short cutting this drilling and ended up with the holes
out of alignment. I mounted it and looked at it and looked at it again
and simply could not live with it even though functionally it seemed to
operate within the range of the bearing.
I ordered new ones fron Van's and took my time measuring the required
radius and then drilling. It looks much better and I feel better about
it. I'm glad I did it.
Fran Malczynski
RV6 (Closing up wings)
Olcott, NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
A
>
>I've traveled in almost evry western European country and a little bit in
>the Pacific rim, and in my opinion, there is no place like the good old
>U.S. of A. I can't sing "America the Beautiful" or our national anthem
>without getting tears in my eyes.
>
>Best Regards,
>Dave Barnhart
>RV-6 sn 23744 N601DB
Hey Dave, have you gone north to check out Canada :-)
Tom Martin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clark, Thomas IFC" <clarktm(at)ifc.hsd.utc.com> |
unsubscribe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
| Subject: | Re: vaccum regulator |
The higher you set the vacuum the shorter the life of the gyros as
they spin faster and suck more dirty air (even with a filter). If you
fit a filter you should however check the pressure *drop* across the
gyros is within the recommended range.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RV-List: vaccum regulator
Date: 14-07-98 14:57
hi listers,i have the following question:
i have 2 gyros each one needing 4.5-5.2 inch Hg suction.the regulator i
bought has two outlets(better inlets)and is set to 5.9 inch Hg
as it came.it will be mounted on the firewall so it will be hard to get to
it once it lives there.could i adjust the regulator before it gets
in there by using a vacuum cleaner as a source and do i have to connect the
gyros when i do this.or should i run my gyros on 5.9inches?
Karl Ahamer RV6AQ getting close to first engine run
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chat Daniel" <cdaniel(at)fnbbaldwin.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming care and feeding |
According to the Lycoming manual, there are two important considerations
for breakin of a new, reman, or overhauled engine. (1) use break in oil
(straight mineral oil of the proper viscosity) for the first 50 hours, and
(2) the engine should be run normally with cruise power at least 65% and
70-75% preferable. Full power for take off and climb in encouraged as long
as temp and oil are monitored and are in acceptable ranges. If you baby a
new engine, you dont get enough pressures in the cylinders for proper
break-in, and you could encourage glazing.
Chat Daniel
RV-8 N678RV (reserved)
----------
> From: Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming care and feeding
> Date: Monday, July 13, 1998 6:12 PM
>
>
> >ask my list buddies for instruction in the proper handling of
> >the mixture control during engine break-in (14 hrs SMOH) and during all
phases
> >of flight. I want to be reminded how the
> >mixture should be handled during ground ops, T/O, climb, cruise at
various
> >power levels, descent, and so forth. I have full instrumentation
(EGTx4,
> >CHTx4, MAP,etc) so be as detailed as you'd like in terms of what point
to lean
> >to, etc.
> >Bill Boyd
> >RV-6A flying (smoothly at last!) Wonder what the red knob
does............
> >Western Virginia
>
> Bill,
> For break in, I operated my engine at mostly at 75% power, varying the
> rpms in cruise every 30 minutes or so. There are some who think varying
> rpms is a good idea even after the engine is broken in but now, at 425
> hours, I generally leave the throttle alone. Of course, with a fixed
pitch
> prop out here in the west with all of the thermal activity, the rpms tend
to
> flucuate a bit:)
> I lean during all engine operations: when taxiing out, run up, for best
> power on high density altitude take offs, at cruise and after landing and
> taxiing back in. I also run the engine up to 1,200 rpms for 30 seconds
> before shut down. This temperature range supposedly helps scavange the
lead
> out & help prevent plug fouling. I service spark plugs every 50 hours
and
> have a very small amount of lead accumulation in the bottom plugs that
are
> easily removed with a dental pick. Top plugs are clean as a whistle. I
> burn 100 LL.
> When breaking in, I tried to err on the side of too rich, especially on
> take off. I made shallow climb outs to keep things cool. My oil
> consumption stabilized after 10 hours or so. This was with steel
cylinders.
>
> Bob Skinner RV-6 425 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
A fellow builder had a deposit on a Bernie Warnke prop just before
Bernie passed away. He is wondering if anyone is currently flying one of
Marge's props. He has the promo brochures, and of course they tell
glowing tales. I've checked the archives and can find nothing.
He has a 160hp setup and is looking to purchase a prop now. Any help
would be appreciated.
Terry Jantzi
C-GZRV RV-6 (330 hours and out of the paint shop this week)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vaccum regulator |
>i have 2 gyros each one needing 4.5-5.2 inch Hg suction.the regulator i
>bought has two outlets(better inlets)and is set to 5.9 inch Hg
>as it came.it will be mounted on the firewall so it will be hard to get to
>it once it lives there.could i adjust the regulator before it gets
>in there by using a vacuum cleaner as a source and do i have to connect the
>gyros when i do this.or should i run my gyros on 5.9inches?
>Karl Ahamer RV6AQ getting close to first engine run
The purpose of the regulator is to limit the vacuum from the vacuum pump to
the instruments. If you use some other vacuum source (vacuum cleaner?) then
your regulator will be set for the vacuum cleaner's flow and pressure
differential (*MUCH* greater!) and will not even be close for the rather
anemic (by comparison) engine driven vacuum pump. Since it is normal
operation every few hundred hours to adjust the regulator as needed to
compensate for wear in the pump, mounting the regulator in a totally
inacessable place is not a good idea. To adjust the regulator you'll need
to have all the instruments which will draw vacuum plumbed and the engine
running.
For the moment, i'd just leave the setting of the regulator alone. Get the
engine running and see that everything works OK, and if after the engine
has been run to at least 2000 RPM you feel that the vacuum is too high,
shut down the engine, climb under the instrument panel and turn the
regulator a tad. Fly it again and see it it was enough or too much and
adjust again between flights. You'll have 25-40 hours to be fiddling with
this adjustment.
The Gyros will not be damaged by the first hour of flight at 5.9".
Bob Steward, A&P IA
AA-1B N8978L
AA-5A N1976L
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
Mike,
I switched to the michelins because of wheel pant rub with
the aerotrainers. Thought they would be a little smaler in
dia. Still had rub so I fixed the one wheel pant and kept
The Michelin condors on. They defininetly wear better and
give a different ground handling. Little less squirm.
RVer273sb CO. RV4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A20driver(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Marge Warnke |
Terry: Was interested in Warnke prop for my 160hp-3A .... No answer to phone
calls to answering machine...Getting advise to Watch Out!!! Try Performance
Props Hearing good things from known buyers...Jim-NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
I am posting this for a gentlemen who asked me if anyone is interested in
an RV-6A. His website is:
http//netnow.micron.net/~rgreener
He has a really cool center throttle quadrant....anyone care to make this a
kit?
Paul Besing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Seeking RV-3 Wingtips |
A friend of mine, who is not on the list, is looking for some replacement RV-3
wingtips. If any of you fine folks know of someone who has a pair of unused
new RV-3 tips sitting around gathering dust that they would like to part with,
please contact me directly with your asking price.
TIA,
-GV
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A For Sale |
The correct address is:
http://netnow.micron.net/~rgreener
The first one did not have a colon:
Paul Besing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Chernich" <Ron_Chernich(at)clmt.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV-6 Elevator travel |
>Ron, You said in an earlier list message, which I foolishly deleted, that
>chapter 6 pg14 of the RV8 manual references cutting away the spar flange
to
>clear the elevator horns. I have read that page several times and cannot
>find it. That page is dated 11/17/97 file 8S6PP44.DOC. What is yours? It
>looks like there hase been a change. Thanks, Jeff Farrar, RV8A,
Empennage
>done waiting for QB, Chandler, AZ
The page says: 8s6R6P.doc 4/28/98. The reference was:
".. It will be necessary to remove the bottom flange of HS-603 to allow the
elevator horns enought swing. DO NOT remove any of the HS-409PP bar!"
Ron Chernich (Portland, OR)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Farrar" <fourazjs(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Angle of Attack |
It is great, Thanks, Jeff Farrar
-----Original Message-----
From: Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com>
Date: Monday, July 13, 1998 9:16 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Angle of Attack
>
>http://www.eurofly.co.uk/european/flyschool/3.htm
>
>Enjoy, this looks like a nice site with lots of pilot info.
>
>Bob Steward, A&P IA
>AA-1B N8978L
>AA-5A N1976L
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Chernich" <Ron_Chernich(at)clmt.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV-6 Elevator travel |
>Ron, You said in an earlier list message, which I foolishly deleted, that
>chapter 6 pg14 of the RV8 manual references cutting away the spar flange
to
>clear the elevator horns. I have read that page several times and cannot
>find it. That page is dated 11/17/97 file 8S6PP44.DOC. What is yours? It
>looks like there hase been a change. Thanks, Jeff Farrar, RV8A,
Empennage
>done waiting for QB, Chandler, AZ
The page says: 8s6R6P.doc 4/28/98. The reference was:
".. It will be necessary to remove the bottom flange of HS-603 to allow the
elevator horns enought swing. DO NOT remove any of the HS-409PP bar!"
Ron Chernich (Portland, OR)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James K. Hurd" <hurd(at)riolink.com> |
An Archive Search yielded a post which recommended removing the latch
shaft tube extending above the center of the front frame bow. It would
appear that if this were removed the initial fitting of the plexi would
be enhanced. Is the tube extension necessary to final latch fit and
would anyone recommend this kind of elective surgery? Comments please.
Jim Intimidated by 6A canopy in New Mexico
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Pellicciotti <eracer(at)magibox.net> |
| Subject: | Lycoming for sale |
A friend who is not on the net asked me to tell people about it.
Lycoming O-320, 0 SMOH, new valves, new lifter bodies, flow balanced,
$11,500.00 OBO
Contact Phil Dixon at 501-624-3706 for more info.
--
My ICQ# is 8673814 or,
Page me online: http://wwp.mirabilis.com/8673814
http://www.eracer.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "IM03 Miller James M. AT3" <JMMiller(at)vinson.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | Wing tip designs |
Not to ask a silly question... but I'm relatively new to the list and
I have no idea what the RV-9 is. Where can I find a picture or info
on it??? Thanks a bunch!
Nick Nafsinger
Still dreaming....
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Craig-Stearman [SMTP:tcraigst(at)ionet.net]
Sent: Monday, July 13, 1998 4:12 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing tip designs
Van's wing tips are actually quite good. I don't think anyone but
serious
racers will see enough improvement from tinkering with wing tip
designs to
be worth the effort. I did notice that he used a different tip shape
on
the new RV-9. The curvature is on the top side rather than the
bottom. As
the RV-9 performance numbers are very impressive, I wonder whether we
will
see this new tip shape offered for the other RVs? Until then, I
suggest
using the new two-piece wheel pants to gain speed.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraigst(at)ionet.net
RV-4 50TC (reserved) mounting the engine
-
-+
-
-+
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Camera in the VS? |
Hi,
Moe wrote:
> Has anyone ever mounted, or seen, a camera in an RV? I'm thinking of
> putting one in my VS. Any suggestions?
I am putting a camera mount in the right wing, just at the end of the aluminum.
I am planning on mounting a still camera there tho a small camcorder should also
fit. I made a L shaped bracket that fastens to the spar. It will have an
electric trigger. I plan on using a Nikon 2000 which has a built in motor.
These are used for about $200-$250 from Del's in Santa Barbara, CA.
For looking straight ahead the vstab might work but I'd be more inclined to
mount one landing light style - in the leading edge.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- Flying mine to OSH
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
I think I just executed the worst "stupid" so far in my project. As I
was riveting the first aft fuse side skin, the gun slipped off one of
the rivets along the curved portion that is near the bottom of the fuse.
The resulting ding really hacked me off since I am seriously considering
not painting my airplane in the near future.
I turned the air regulator down a little more and continued riveting. A
while later, the same thing happened again; The gun bounced off the
rivet and another ding resulted.
Yep, a few rivets later, after reducing pressure even more, it happened
again! Three smileys on one side of the fuse! After walking around the
shop a few times and engaging in self-flagellation, I started wondering
if I had lost all the riveting skills I had accumulated up to that time.
Then it hit. I have three air outlets in my shop, one set at 80 lbs at
the compressor, the others regulated at 25-35 in the shop for the gun. I
was wondering why I had continued problems with the gun bouncing even
though I had reduced the air pressure after each of the dings. Yes, I
had plugged the rivet gun into the wrong air line!
Fortunately, I found my brain sitting on the workbench before it had
time to dry out completely, and after reinserting it into my head, I
continued with the riveting session without further problems.
Now I need a good method to work out dings without resorting to filler.
Any ideas from the aluminum gurus out there?
Sam Buchanan (shoe size and IQ in similar range)
sbuc(at)traveller.com
"The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Farrar" <fourazjs(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV-6 Elevator travel |
Thanks Ron. It looks like your manual is later than mine. I'll call Van's
to confirm. Does anyone know if there is an update process to get changes
out to earlier builders? Jeff Farrar, RV8A, Empennage done waiting for QB,
Chandler, AZ
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Chernich <Ron_Chernich(at)clmt.com>
Date: Tuesday, July 14, 1998 9:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: RV-6 Elevator travel
That page is dated 11/17/97 file 8S6PP44.DOC
>
>The page says: 8s6R6P.doc 4/28/98. The reference was:
>
>".. It will be necessary to remove the bottom flange of HS-603 to allow the
>elevator horns enought swing. DO NOT remove any of the HS-409PP bar!"
>
>Ron Chernich (Portland, OR)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Hyde <hyde(at)bcl.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Camera in the VS? |
>X-Persona:
>Return-Path:
>Date: Tue, 14 Jul 98 08:38:13 CDT
>From: Mike Thompson <michaelt(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM>
>To: HYDE(at)BCL.NET
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Camera in the VS?
>Reply-To: michaelt(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM
>Organization: IBM Austin, Texas, USA
>News-Software: UReply 3.1
>
>In a previous message, it was written:
>>
>>At a flyin I watched some guys attach a small self-contained camcorder to
>>the VS of a plane. Basically, their mount consisted of a u-shaped piece of
>>aluminum bolted to the back of the camera, which was mounted to the front
>>of the VS with a large amount of duct tape.
>
>
>That'll do it. I'm planning in some platenuts in the VS similar to
>those for the tie-downs, two on each side, that will accept a camera
>housing (fiberglass teardrop and shaped to fit around the leading
>edge, then simply screw to the VS).
>Works on paper - we'll have to see.
>
>BTW, probably everyone but me is past this point - _but I took the HS
>out of the jig last night_! Hooray!
>
>- Mike Thompson
> Austin, TX
> -6 emp, hanging up the HS and jigging the VS!
>
>
Don Hyde
Quincy, IL
6A, Building! VS in jig,
waiting for wife to be "in the mood" to rivet skins.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
Q: How many lunatic RV builders does it take to screw in a light bulb?
A: none. A light bulb would add too much weight.
Q: How many spam drivers does it take to screw in a light bulb?
A: 10 -- one to screw in the bulb and 9 to carry the FAA paperwork for it.
:-)
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Slider Question |
Jim Hurd wrote:
> An Archive Search yielded a post which recommended removing the latch
> shaft tube extending above the center of the front frame bow. It would
> appear that if this were removed the initial fitting of the plexi would
> be enhanced. Is the tube extension necessary to final latch fit and
> would anyone recommend this kind of elective surgery? Comments please.
I just fitted the plastic. Removed the post as suggested by Jim Cone. I can't
imagine how the factory ever thought this was of value! It would have been much
more difficult with it on - chop it off completely. I believe you should get
the sliding frame set just right before doing the plastic. My frames's left
front bow was 3/16ths longer than the right. I cut it and Ace Campbell welded
it back for me. I'm afraid of bending these things. I worry that it will be
like the chair with one leg too long. My roll over bar is also mishapen with a
flat spot on the right side. It is a shame they don't have any quality control
for these kits.
At Mitch Faatz's suggestion, I moved the canopy (after the rough trim) fore and
aft till I got the center tube of the slider frame to fit as closely as
possible. Then I began to trim the front, half an inch at a time till it stayed
up off the front skin. It still did not fit the roll over bar at the top but I
don't think it ever will till either I get up there and sit on it or split the
windscreen from the sliding part.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- See ya at OSH!
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Fasching" <jfasching(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Video Camera in RV's |
I have seen great installations of video cameras in under wing pods, on
special mounting brackets in the "back seat" of RV-4s, etc. But, if all
you want is an occassional "quick and dirty" installation in an RV-6 or
6A try removing the right seat and using a tripod with rubber tipped
legs. I used piano hinge pins bent into a full circle on both sides of
the floor mounted hinge eye pieces, and used a bungee cord looped from a
hook on the bottom of the tripod (intended to add weight so cameras
don't "jiggle") and it works fine. Only minor problem is some difficulty
in seeing into the eye piece. But you don't need remote control - you
can reach everything - and it can be put in and out in minutes. Works
fine for casual video taping. Also fun to see your landings as a
passenger would.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com> |
| Subject: | Camera in the VS? |
> Moe wrote:
> > Has anyone ever mounted, or seen, a camera in an RV? I'm thinking of
> > putting one in my VS. Any suggestions?
>
You may want to perform some preliminary weight and balance
calculations based on other RV 8 data (I know your 8 is not done yet).
If the 8 is similar to the 6 the tail is not a good candidate for extra
weight. Also have you given some thought to how you will get to the
camera when it is in the VS? At least with a wing installation not only
would it be more accessible but also a bit more weight and balance
friendly.
Gary Fesenbek
Roanoke, VA RV6AQ, canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
Sam,
I don't have any suggestions for repairing the dings, but I do have a
suggestion for riveting the rest of the fuselage. I just finished
riveting my fuselage and used the back rivet set from the inside of the
fuselage on more than half of the rivets. In most cases I used the set
Avery sells for back riveting on the workbench. I also used the 12"
long set that Avery sells for back riveting the wings. The long set is
a little tricky and I never really got comfortable with it. The short
set, however, works beautifully (in places where it will fit). The
rivets do look better when back riveted.
Hope this helps.
Ken Harrill
RV-6, fuselage
I think I just executed the worst "stupid" so far in my
project. As I
was riveting the first aft fuse side skin, the gun
slipped off one of
the rivets along the curved portion that is near the
bottom of the fuse.
The resulting ding really hacked me off since I am
seriously considering
not painting my airplane in the near future.
I turned the air regulator down a little more and
continued riveting. A
while later, the same thing happened again; The gun
bounced off the
rivet and another ding resulted.
Yep, a few rivets later, after reducing pressure even
more, it happened
again! Three smileys on one side of the fuse! After
walking around the
shop a few times and engaging in self-flagellation, I
started wondering
if I had lost all the riveting skills I had accumulated
up to that time.
Then it hit. I have three air outlets in my shop, one
set at 80 lbs at
the compressor, the others regulated at 25-35 in the
shop for the gun. I
was wondering why I had continued problems with the gun
bouncing even
though I had reduced the air pressure after each of the
dings. Yes, I
had plugged the rivet gun into the wrong air line!
Fortunately, I found my brain sitting on the workbench
before it had
time to dry out completely, and after reinserting it
into my head, I
continued with the riveting session without further
problems.
Now I need a good method to work out dings without
resorting to filler.
Any ideas from the aluminum gurus out there?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
>Now I need a good method to work out dings without resorting to
>filler.Any ideas from the aluminum gurus out there?
>
>Sam Buchanan (shoe size and IQ in similar range)
Sam:
did that to my HS. I can't go back in, but if you can get to it from
inside, could you remove 4 oor5 rivets on each side & get a small shoe
like bar behind it & dolly it out?
Don Jordan ~ 76DJ ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Bocox" <rbocox(at)ryko.com> |
| Subject: | Cutting off canopy tube |
Jim, Intimidated by 6A canopy in New Mexico wrote:
About cutting off the latch tube.
I did my canopy by placing a few layers of masking tape over the tube so that it
did not scratch the canopy during fitting. You can get a very good fit with
the tube in place. When you get everything pretty close, you can drill the hole
for the tube to fit through, and the tube will act as a locating point for
the canopy. Be accurate about this, since once the hole is drilled, the canopy
location if fixed and you cannot change it. It was not as difficult as it
appears, in fact the tube sticking up was a non issue. I did trim the tube a
littler shorter to make the handle fit tight to the canopy and the aluminum strips
with the UHMW/nylon washer. Just figure your thicknesses of everything
to get the tube length just right.
Cutting off the tube, in my opinion, would cause the latch to have to ride on
the aluminum strip placed down the middle. If you leave the tube, it will ride
on the edge of the tube. Without the tube sticking through the canopy, it
is difficult to put silicone ( or other such product) around the tube/area to
seal the canopy. It creates just another place where water can get in.
Roger E. Bocox, [ RBocox(at)Ryko.com ]
RV-6A N872RF in Des Moines, Iowa
Painting and doing fiberglass work
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Craig-Stearman <tcraigst(at)ionet.net> |
| Subject: | Carburetor for sale |
'Listers,
The fuel pump sold quickly, but I still have the carb for sale. Precision
Airmotive MA-4-5 carb removed from a brand new O-360A1A purchased from
Van's Aircraft. Aircraft Spruce lists a remanufactured unit for $1095. I
will sell my brand new carb for $695. Such a deal! E-mail me off-list if
you want it.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraigst(at)ionet.net
RV-4 50TC (reserved) mounting the engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hinch" <chinch(at)arl.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Newbie question - attaching HS forward spar |
After a work-induced month away from building (and having withdrawal
symptoms - I'm getting the message that I'm impossible to live with when I
haven't been out in the garage) I'm back at it.
I'm ready to attach the HS forward spar to the ribs and rear spar. I've
clamped the HS forward spar tpo the HS ribs with side clamps, and have
doublechecked all the measurements. Some tweaking, but it looks pretty good.
In fact, it almost looks like something I would find inside an aeroplane.
Excellent!!
The manual now says to slip a 601 skin over and ensure the centrelines
appear through the prepunched holes.
Ummmmmm.
How do I slip a skin over without removing the slide clamps that are holding
the front spar at my double and triplechecked measurements?
Georges video says to mount the lot in the jig first, and hold the tip ribs
in place with the 1/4" threaded rod, which is fine, but even then, how can
you hold the tip flange of the 602's against the tip rib web, and the 608's
against the 602's while slipping on the skins to check the holes??
My other question is that most of the ribs in the HS seem to have a bow
across the face of the web. There is also a slight twist along the length of
the 60-8's and tip ribs, that makes aligning everything kind of fun. I
can't say for sure that I didn't introduce these twists during fluting, but
I don't think I did. Is this normal?
Sorry if this question is way too "newbie".
Chris
____
Chris Hinch
chinch(at)arl.co.nz
RV-8 Builder #80630 - http://www.arl.co.nz/chinch/rvlog/kiwi8.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Fogerson <rfogerson(at)baf.com> |
IMHO, you either need to learn to love it, or get a new piece. If you
start hammering it with a dolly and hammer, you will thin the metal. If
you thin the metal, it increases in length and produces a bulge. That
is the principal of an English wheel and how it makes complex curves.
Been there, done that. I replaced the part in the end cause I made it
worse.
Rick Fogerson, RV-6A with 57 hours.
-----Original Message-----
From: donspawn(at)Juno.com [mailto:donspawn(at)Juno.com]
Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 1998 1:26 PM
Subject: RV-List: Idiot Alert!
>Now I need a good method to work out dings without resorting to
>filler.Any ideas from the aluminum gurus out there?
>
>Sam Buchanan (shoe size and IQ in similar range)
Sam:
did that to my HS. I can't go back in, but if you can get to it from
inside, could you remove 4 oor5 rivets on each side & get a small shoe
like bar behind it & dolly it out?
Don Jordan ~ 76DJ ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bibb <rbibb(at)fore.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Idiot Alert! |
I believe filling will give the best results because you have "stretched"
the metal where you dinged it and cannot "shrink" it back smoothly now. If
you aren't going to paint you best just learn to live with it. Makes one
appreciate Dave Ander's work all the more when you've actually built one of
these things....
>
>I think I just executed the worst "stupid" so far in my project. As I
>was riveting the first aft fuse side skin, the gun slipped off one of
>the rivets along the curved portion that is near the bottom of the fuse.
>The resulting ding really hacked me off since I am seriously considering
>not painting my airplane in the near future.
>
>I turned the air regulator down a little more and continued riveting. A
>while later, the same thing happened again; The gun bounced off the
>rivet and another ding resulted.
>Yep, a few rivets later, after reducing pressure even more, it happened
>again! Three smileys on one side of the fuse! After walking around the
>shop a few times and engaging in self-flagellation, I started wondering
>if I had lost all the riveting skills I had accumulated up to that time.
>
>Then it hit. I have three air outlets in my shop, one set at 80 lbs at
>the compressor, the others regulated at 25-35 in the shop for the gun. I
>was wondering why I had continued problems with the gun bouncing even
>though I had reduced the air pressure after each of the dings. Yes, I
>had plugged the rivet gun into the wrong air line!
>
>Fortunately, I found my brain sitting on the workbench before it had
>time to dry out completely, and after reinserting it into my head, I
>continued with the riveting session without further problems.
>
>Now I need a good method to work out dings without resorting to filler.
>Any ideas from the aluminum gurus out there?
>
>Sam Buchanan (shoe size and IQ in similar range)
>sbuc(at)traveller.com
>"The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
>
>
>
>
>
Richard E. Bibb
RV-4 N144KT
Oak Hill, VA
rbibb(at)fore.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Hudgins <davidrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
>My tires are tired. Looking at Michelin or Goodyear.
Is Van's still shipping those sorry "aerotrainers". Mine didn't hold up
very well at all. For those ordering finishing kits, I would suggest
getting a credit on the tires from Van's and buying some good quality
rubber. It would be nice if Van's offered an option to upgrade. In this
case, you definitly get what you pay for.
Dave H.
Nashville d:-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry parr <parravion(at)mcmail.com> |
| Subject: | Is there anyone out there! |
Dear Listers
I haven't received any list info for almost a week! Could someone reply
to me off list and let me know if it's a fault with me (have I been
auto-unsubscribed) or if the list is down at the moment (in which case
no-one will read this anyway!).
I'm getting other mail through so it's not a fatal flaw with my
computer!
Many thanks
Jerry Parr; parravion(at)mcmail.com
Peterborough, England
RV-6, G-RVVI
The engine fits!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Slider Question |
> I moved the canopy (after the rough trim) fore and
> aft till I got the center tube of the slider frame to fit as closely as
> possible. Then I began to trim the front, half an inch at a time till it
stayed
> up off the front skin. It still did not fit the roll over bar at the top but
I
> don't think it ever will till either I get up there and sit on it or split the
> windscreen from the sliding part.
RIGHT!
I cringe every time I see this because I fear others are making the same
mistake I did. I tried to get it to fit down on the front skin and the
roll bar before making the split, and finally gave up when I realized it
wasn't going to fit right until I split it. But once I made the split,
the windscreen changed shape, namely it wanted to lift up a fair amount
in the front. In order to not have a big gap up front I had to cut a
bigger "wedge" than I wanted in the aft windscreen and tip it down at
the front. It looks OK but the fwd edge of the windscreen is now back
about 1 - 1 1/2 inches from where it would have (should have) been.
So please all you people with sliding canopies take a hint from someone
who has made the mistake: DON'T try to fit the canopy perfectly down on
the frame and the front skin before making the split! PLEASE! just
find out where it best matches the curve of the frame, trim roughly to
fit but a little long, then make the cut. I know it's hard to do this
without having it all fitted nicely down on the roll bar and frame and
everything because you can't be exactly sure where the cut needs to be.
That's ok -- if you just find and mark the best position, then block it
up evenly off the frame and mark for the split it should be close
enough, as you will almost certainly have to cut a thin wedge out of one
or both pieces to adjust for fit anyway.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 (engine/finish)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <dwalsh(at)ecentral.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Slider Question |
James K. Hurd wrote:
Is the tube extension necessary to final latch fit and
> would anyone recommend this kind of elective surgery? Comments please.
>
Elective surgery yes. Get all of Cone's hints too. It is not too late.
I did save the circumsisied tip and used it for a spacer later worked good.
DLW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Idiot Alert! |
I will repeat a remark from Bill Benedict that I haven't seen quoted before.
It went something like this: "Behind every show plane is a trash bin filled
with
enough airfarme parts to almost make another RV." At this point you need to
decide
if you want to order another fuselage skin and have a show plane.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121
>
>I believe filling will give the best results because you have "stretched"
>the metal where you dinged it and cannot "shrink" it back smoothly now. If
>you aren't going to paint you best just learn to live with it. Makes one
>appreciate Dave Ander's work all the more when you've actually built one of
>these things....
>
>>
>>I think I just executed the worst "stupid" so far in my project. As I
>>was riveting the first aft fuse side skin, the gun slipped off one of
>>the rivets along the curved portion that is near the bottom of the fuse.
>>The resulting ding really hacked me off since I am seriously considering
>>not painting my airplane in the near future.
< snip>
>>Now I need a good method to work out dings without resorting to filler.
>>Any ideas from the aluminum gurus out there?
>>
>>Sam Buchanan (shoe size and IQ in similar range)
>>sbuc(at)traveller.com
>>"The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
Or Oz (Australia for those who dont get out of Kansas...)
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-List: a funny
Date: 14-07-98 07:34
A
>
>I've traveled in almost evry western European country and a little bit in
>the Pacific rim, and in my opinion, there is no place like the good old
>U.S. of A. I can't sing "America the Beautiful" or our national anthem
>without getting tears in my eyes.
>
>Best Regards,
>Dave Barnhart
>RV-6 sn 23744 N601DB
Hey Dave, have you gone north to check out Canada :-)
Tom Martin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Idiot Alert! |
Sam,
I'm no expert, but I have successfully removed dings from skins by using
the back rivet set/rivet gun to drive the ding back out from the back side.
A lead shot filled bag is placed on the outer surface to absorb most of the
blow from the rivet gun. This was recommended by Jerry Scott up at Chino.
If you try this I recommend lots of practice before trying this on your
plane but it worked for me.
Mike Wills
RV-4 fuse
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>Now I need a good method to work out dings without resorting to filler.
>Any ideas from the aluminum gurus out there?
>
>Sam Buchanan (shoe size and IQ in similar range)
>sbuc(at)traveller.com
>"The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Morrissey, John" <John.Morrissey(at)its.csiro.au> |
| Subject: | Is there anyone out there! |
Hi Jerry,
Well you message got all the way to Australia via the list so I can only
assume its working. What's the homebuilding scene like in England??
John Morrissey
RV4 Wings done - tail group done - waiting for a better exchange rate
before I buy the rest!
-----Original Message-----
From: jerry parr [mailto:parravion(at)mcmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 1998 7:30 AM
Subject: RV-List: Is there anyone out there!
Dear Listers
I haven't received any list info for almost a week! Could someone reply
to me off list and let me know if it's a fault with me (have I been
auto-unsubscribed) or if the list is down at the moment (in which case
no-one will read this anyway!).
I'm getting other mail through so it's not a fatal flaw with my
computer!
Many thanks
Jerry Parr; parravion(at)mcmail.com
Peterborough, England
RV-6, G-RVVI
The engine fits!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rimbold <rimbold(at)ntr.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Idiot Alert! |
Sam Buchanan wrote:
> I think I just executed the worst "stupid" so far in my project. As I
> was riveting the first aft fuse side skin, the gun slipped off one of
> the rivets along the curved portion that is near the bottom of the fuse.
I don't have any ideas on how to fill the ding, but I'll suggest that
you use the swivel head for the rivet gun. This has a rubber boot
around the outside. The swivel makes it practically impossible to
ding anything. At least, I can't remember making a ding with it so
far. Also, hold the swivel head in place with your spare hand.
--
--------
Rob Rimbold, rimbold(at)ntr.net
RV-6A, wings and gear on fuselage, upside down in jig
mistake!
Just THINKING about polishing the plane is sure to create additional
dings!
Oh well, golf balls work pretty well and they have a lot of dings....
Sam Buchanan
sbuc(at)traveller.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
I can tell you how one removes such a dent but I can't do it!
A picture would sure help.
Picture a flat surface with a hump - you can probably do that easily by now!
Picture a dolly, a lump of iron flat on one surface, a sort of bucking "lump"
pressed against the flat surface opposite the hump. Tap on the hump. It will
get flatter and flatter as you hit it. Be sure you have the dolly or the hump
will just move to the other side and grow.
I've seen it done. The metal actually gets thicker.
Go to a body shop, they do it all the time.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Steffensen" <steffco1(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie question - attaching HS forward spar |
Chris,
I used the following technique.
1. Mark the center line of the ribs.
2. Extend the edges of the ribs using a marker on to the forward flange.
These will be used as a reference.
3. Remove the clamps.
4. Fit the skins to the skeleton, cleco 1 side.
5. Align the ribs using the centerline drawn on the ribs by viewing through
the pre-punched holes. Using a cleco clamp, clamp the rib to the forward
flange.
6. Mark the new corrected position on the inside on the skin and forward
flange using a different color marker. This is the correct position for one
side of the rib & skin.
7. Repeat the process for the other side.
Using these new reference lines clamp the rib to the forward spar and drill
the rivet holes. Drill the 2 outboard holes. Put the skin back on and repeat
the process with the nose ribs. Using a clamp in the center of the nose rib
to hold the correct position & drill in alignment with the lower rib.
Finnish up with the 3rd center hole. I used a # 40 drill to start and
finished up with a #30. Mine came out straight and centered.
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Hinch <chinch(at)arl.co.nz>
Date: Tuesday, July 14, 1998 3:45 PM
Subject: RV-List: Newbie question - attaching HS forward spar
>
>
>After a work-induced month away from building (and having withdrawal
>symptoms - I'm getting the message that I'm impossible to live with when I
>haven't been out in the garage) I'm back at it.
>
>I'm ready to attach the HS forward spar to the ribs and rear spar. I've
>clamped the HS forward spar tpo the HS ribs with side clamps, and have
>doublechecked all the measurements. Some tweaking, but it looks pretty
good.
>In fact, it almost looks like something I would find inside an aeroplane.
>Excellent!!
>
>The manual now says to slip a 601 skin over and ensure the centrelines
>appear through the prepunched holes.
>
>Ummmmmm.
>
>How do I slip a skin over without removing the slide clamps that are
holding
>the front spar at my double and triplechecked measurements?
>
>Georges video says to mount the lot in the jig first, and hold the tip ribs
>in place with the 1/4" threaded rod, which is fine, but even then, how can
>you hold the tip flange of the 602's against the tip rib web, and the 608's
>against the 602's while slipping on the skins to check the holes??
>
>My other question is that most of the ribs in the HS seem to have a bow
>across the face of the web. There is also a slight twist along the length
of
>the 60-8's and tip ribs, that makes aligning everything kind of fun. I
>can't say for sure that I didn't introduce these twists during fluting, but
>I don't think I did. Is this normal?
>
>Sorry if this question is way too "newbie".
>
>Chris
>____
>
>Chris Hinch
>chinch(at)arl.co.nz
>RV-8 Builder #80630 - http://www.arl.co.nz/chinch/rvlog/kiwi8.htm
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A407-aileron bracket - RV6A |
>
>the drill hole is greatly out of alignment.
>Is the bracket still be able to be used or a new bracket have to be
fabricated?
>
>Heng
If you are in doubt, those brackets are fairly cheap thru Van's. (approx $
3.00)
Larry Olson
RV6 - Just hung LH Aileron
Cave Creek, Arizona
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Glover <glovebox(at)smartt.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Angle of Attack |
Listers, I have just found an ad in the June 26 Flyer for the
Huntington Lift Reserve Indicator. I've followed these devices
for many years now, and was disappointed when Mr. Huntington died
several years ago. It appears that someone has resurrected the LRI!
Interested parties may look at the device at their website:
www.liftreserve.com
Good stuff!
cheers
Tom Glover
RV-6eh?
Surrey BC Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Draining Gascolator |
I'm busily mounting "stuff" on my firewall, and am about to drill the holes for
the gascolator mount. I'm using an ACS gascolator with ACS bracket,
covered with an aluminum shroud which is fed by cooling air thru 5/8" hose.
I'm looking for builders' experience regarding draining the gascolator. My
gascolator will be on the firewall, about 6" in from the side of the firewall,
sitting just above the lower engine mount tube (RV-6A). It seems to me I
should orient the gascolator drain so it points toward the side of the cowling,
and slightly forward. Then I can drill a 1" (or so) hole in the bottom of the
cowling to allow access for my fuel sampling tube during preflight.
Any thoughts/advice/experience?
Thanks,
Tim
_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
Tim Lewis
N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 on gear, engine mounted
Springfield VA
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
timrv6a(at)iname.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter O'Brien" <petero(at)orbital.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Linear amplifier |
Michael, a VSWR of 3 to 1 will cause about 60% of the transmitter
power to be lost in the mismatch.
If you decide to trim the antenna check the VSWR on 126mHz, (mid
band) but make sure after each 1/16 cut that the readings on 118 &
136mHz are not increasing, generally a VSWR of 2.5 to 1 at both ends
of the spectrum is OK , provided the mid band is around 1.5 to 1.
The location of VHF aerials on aircraft should be at a point on or
near to the centre of the aircraft, whether the Antenna is on the top
or bottom makes little difference in flight.
I would not use a linear due to splattering, in to other freqs, in
any case the linear is likely to degrade receive performance.
Peter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter O'Brien" <petero(at)orbital.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Linear amplifier |
Michael, I forgot mention these things----check the antenna connector
to the aerial is OK, that there is not a length of coax curled up,
somewhere in the run to the antenna and there are sharp bends (like
90deg).
You can check the above by placing a "dummy load" on the antenna out
put of the VSWR meter, it should show a reading of around 1.2 to 1
across the band.
Peter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Draining Gascolator |
---Tim Lewis wrote:
>
>
> I'm busily mounting "stuff" on my firewall, and am about to drill
the holes for
> the gascolator mount. I'm using an ACS gascolator with ACS bracket,
> covered with an aluminum shroud which is fed by cooling air thru
5/8" hose.
>
> I'm looking for builders' experience regarding draining the
gascolator. My
> gascolator will be on the firewall, about 6" in from the side of the
firewall,
> sitting just above the lower engine mount tube (RV-6A). It seems to
me I
> should orient the gascolator drain so it points toward the side of
the cowling,
> and slightly forward. Then I can drill a 1" (or so) hole in the
bottom of the
> cowling to allow access for my fuel sampling tube during preflight.
>
> Any thoughts/advice/experience?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim
> _+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
> Tim Lewis
> N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 on gear, engine mounted
> Springfield VA
> http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
> timrv6a(at)iname.com
Tim:
I did it exactly as you say except also replaced the standard drain
valve that came with the gascolator with the one of the same part
number as Van uses on the wing tanks. There have been several
accidents where the drain was accidently locked open and all the fuel
pumped overboard.
==
Gary A. Sobek
RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
---David Hudgins wrote:
>
>
> >My tires are tired. Looking at Michelin or Goodyear.
>
>
> Is Van's still shipping those sorry "aerotrainers". Mine didn't hold
up
> very well at all. For those ordering finishing kits, I would suggest
> getting a credit on the tires from Van's and buying some good quality
> rubber. It would be nice if Van's offered an option to upgrade. In
this
> case, you definitly get what you pay for.
>
> Dave H.
> Nashville d:-)
I have 170.6 hours on my original tires. The left side of the left
one is amost shot. Condor tires came in my kit and are much better
than the McCreary that came and are on another -6 at CCB. His has
more wear at 50 than mine do at 170.6. My friends flying -4 recommend
Goodyear so there is a set in my hangar to install before I leave for
Oshkosh.
==
Gary A. Sobek
RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell
So. CA, USA
RV6flier(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A For Sale |
>He has a really cool center throttle quadrant....anyone care to make this a
>kit?
I would caution anyone contemplating installing a center console like that
shown on the afrementioned RV-6A that you are REALL GONNA HATE IT the first
time you have to work under the panel.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
RV-6 sn 23744 N601DB
Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)a.crl.com> |
Someone wrote:
>I have been told that flying below 10,000 feet,requires
>very little mixture adjustments.
At 5000 ft density altitude 65 percent power, full rich in my RV-6 is about
12 gph. When leaned out (not even aggressively leaning) it drops to 8 gph.
That's a lot.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
RV-6 sn 23744 N601DB
Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carol Knight <cknight(at)rmci.net> |
| Subject: | RV Aircraft Upholstery |
RV Builders
I have been in the upholstery business for 26 years and have been making
upholstery products for kitplanes for 14 years. I have interior kits
available for RV-4, RV-6, RV-6A, and RV-8. I also have cabin covers and
other items. I am the supplier of upholstery products for several kitplane
manufacturers. A list of other kitplane interior products available upon
request.
For more information, call Knight Aircraft Interiors, Inc., at (208)
342-2602 or e-mail me at cknight(at)rmci.net. Photos available upon request.
Sincerely,
KNIGHT AIRCRAFT INTERIORS, INC.
"Fly by Knight" Upholstery Products
Sam Knight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Holman" <bholman(at)fullcomp.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Idiot Alert! |
Don't throw it away yet. If the dings are actually on the curved part of
the skin as stated, you have probably not stretched the skin, just dented
it in. try bumping it out very gently with a piece of soft wood and a
small (light) hammer.
Also when you have finished the fuselage skins, in some places on the
convex curved areas (ie around the bulkheads) you will find low spots
around the rivets. These can easily be bumped out to produce a nice
straight skin by taking a piece of softwood about 1/2 square and 6 inches
long and drilling a 3/16 hole in one end of it. Place the hole over the
rivet tail inside the fuselage and with some one outside to guide you,
gently bump the flange of the bulkhead around the rivet. It is easier to do
than explain, and gets rid of the depressions (both sorts) which result
from over zelous use of the gun as well as frames that that were a bit low
in the first place. Brian
> I will repeat a remark from Bill Benedict that I haven't seen quoted
before.
> It went something like this: "Behind every show plane is a trash bin
filled
> with
> enough airfarme parts to almost make another RV." At this point you need
to
> decide
> if you want to order another fuselage skin and have a show plane.
>
>
> >>I think I just executed the worst "stupid" so far in my project. As I
> >>was riveting the first aft fuse side skin, the gun slipped off one of
> >>the rivets along the curved portion that is near the bottom of the
fuse.
> >>The resulting ding really hacked me off since I am seriously
considering
> >>not painting my airplane in the near future.
> < snip>
> >>Now I need a good method to work out dings without resorting to filler.
> >>Any ideas from the aluminum gurus out there?
> >>
> >>Sam Buchanan (shoe size and IQ in similar range)
> >>sbuc(at)traveller.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)idacom.hp.com> |
| Subject: | Salmon Arm RV Gathering |
This has been announced before, but some may have missed it or
forgotten.
There's going to be a gathering for RV builders in Salmon Arm,
BC, on July 26. The purpose is to get builders in the general
area together to talk shop, discuss techniques, and get to know
each other. If you're in BC, Washington, Idaho, Alberta, or
anywhere, for that matter, hope to see you there.
For more information, contact Barry Tunzelmann at kiwi(at)sunwave.net.
Tedd McHenry
Western Canada RVator
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Bristol" <bbristol(at)intranet.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Draining Gascolator |
Tim, That is pretty well how I did mine on my RV6A and it works well.
Bob Bristol 8.5 hrs on test period and slowed down by "work"
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Lewis <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Tuesday, July 14, 1998 9:38 PM
Subject: RV-List: Draining Gascolator
>
>I'm busily mounting "stuff" on my firewall, and am about to drill the holes
for
>the gascolator mount. I'm using an ACS gascolator with ACS bracket,
>covered with an aluminum shroud which is fed by cooling air thru 5/8" hose.
>
>I'm looking for builders' experience regarding draining the gascolator. My
>gascolator will be on the firewall, about 6" in from the side of the
firewall,
>sitting just above the lower engine mount tube (RV-6A). It seems to me I
>should orient the gascolator drain so it points toward the side of the
cowling,
>and slightly forward. Then I can drill a 1" (or so) hole in the bottom of
the
>cowling to allow access for my fuel sampling tube during preflight.
>
>Any thoughts/advice/experience?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Tim
>_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_
>Tim Lewis
>N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 on gear, engine mounted
>Springfield VA
>http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a
>timrv6a(at)iname.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Camera in the VS? |
Hiya Gary, how are you coming along? I was thinking more along the line
of one of those very small, very expensive video cameras made especially
for this type of thing. The camera itself is about the size of a mini
mag light, and you wire it to a recorder somewhere else in the plane. I
like the wing install too, but the VS view is a little better. I couls
do a wingtip install pointing inward so I get the front canopy and nose.
No matter what, it is a project for another day. I'm busy enough these
days building one trim tab after another.
Moe Colontonio
moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
Check out my RV-8 page at:
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
Fesenbek, Gary wrote:
>
>
> > Moe wrote:
> > > Has anyone ever mounted, or seen, a camera in an RV? I'm thinking of
> > > putting one in my VS. Any suggestions?
> >
> You may want to perform some preliminary weight and balance
> calculations based on other RV 8 data (I know your 8 is not done yet).
> If the 8 is similar to the 6 the tail is not a good candidate for extra
> weight. Also have you given some thought to how you will get to the
> camera when it is in the VS? At least with a wing installation not only
> would it be more accessible but also a bit more weight and balance
> friendly.
>
> Gary Fesenbek
> Roanoke, VA RV6AQ, canopy
>
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <mcooper(at)cnetech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Draining Gascolator |
My -6 will have the same setup you do and I have seen the same on my
buddy's -6A. The local hardware shop sells various lengths of brass tubing
(2,3,4,5") with pipe threads which is used to extend the drain fitting so
you can get to it easier.
Marcus
----------
>
>
> I'm busily mounting "stuff" on my firewall, and am about to drill the
holes for
> the gascolator mount. I'm using an ACS gascolator with ACS bracket,
> covered with an aluminum shroud which is fed by cooling air thru 5/8"
hose.
>
> I'm looking for builders' experience regarding draining the gascolator.
My
> gascolator will be on the firewall, about 6" in from the side of the
firewall,
> sitting just above the lower engine mount tube (RV-6A). It seems to me I
> should orient the gascolator drain so it points toward the side of the
cowling,
> and slightly forward. Then I can drill a 1" (or so) hole in the bottom
of the
> cowling to allow access for my fuel sampling tube during preflight.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul William Schattauer <schattauerpw(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: proseal expiration and archives |
>
>Hi all,
>
>I have some proseal in the premix tubes with an expiration date of June, and
>my riveting partner has to take a break to work on his house. I stored the
>proseal in my garage this last winter, so I am sure I can push the
>expiration date a bit. What are the indications that I will have to buy new
>proseal? I am sure I have seen this subject in the past, but I am having no
>luck getting Matt's new search engine to work for me.
>
>Steve Johnson
>
>RV-8 #80121
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Camera in the VS? |
| From: | rvav8r(at)Juno.com (j armstrong) |
Hal,
I just read this post....do I interpret it to read that you are
flying Valentine to OSH?????
Jack
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bryon Maynard <bmaynar3(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel and Vent lines (New Orleans) |
I am looking for anyone in the New Orleans area that has built an RV-6A
that could show how to route the fuel and vent lines. I have slowed down
until I know for sure.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Bishop <wemkbish(at)nponline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: vaccum regulator |
Karl Ahamer wrote:
>
> hi listers,i have the following question:
> i have 2 gyros each one needing 4.5-5.2 inch Hg suction.the regulator i
>
> .could i adjust the regulator before it gets
> in there by using a vacuum cleaner as a source and do i have to connect the
> gyros when i do this.
Karl,
This is exactly where I'm at. I have my vac. system installed, which I believe
is
the correct way to set the regulator, so it knows how much it must provide. Tried
two ( yes 2) shop vacs and could only pull 4.0" Hg. Hence, it didn't work for
me.
Suppose if you got enough vacs hooked together, you could do it. However, belive
that using the engine vac pump is the best way.
Warren Bishop
North Platte, NE wiring up the comm radio.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Idiot Alert! |
rimbold wrote:
>
>
> Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
> > I think I just executed the worst "stupid" so far in my project. As I
> > was riveting the first aft fuse side skin, the gun slipped off one of
> > the rivets along the curved portion that is near the bottom of the fuse.
>
> I don't have any ideas on how to fill the ding, but I'll suggest that
> you use the swivel head for the rivet gun. This has a rubber boot
> around the outside. The swivel makes it practically impossible to
> ding anything.
???????????
Rob, I am the proud owner of a swivel head that can very definitely
produce a nice ding!
At least, I can't remember making a ding with it so
> far. Also, hold the swivel head in place with your spare hand.
Uh..... if you are holding the rivet gun with one hand, and the bucking
bar with the other, then your spare hand goes on the swivel head? I must
have been short-changed...my ole body didn't come with any spares.....
Sam
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Idiot Alert! |
Mike,
Thanks for the reply. This is precisely the kind of response I was
trying to encourage with my original post. No doubt many listers will
explore this and similar techniques, and hopeful with some degree of
success.
Sam Buchanan
sbuc(at)traveller.com
Mike Wills wrote:
>
>
> Sam,
>
> I'm no expert, but I have successfully removed dings from skins by using
> the back rivet set/rivet gun to drive the ding back out from the back side.
> A lead shot filled bag is placed on the outer surface to absorb most of the
> blow from the rivet gun. This was recommended by Jerry Scott up at Chino.
> If you try this I recommend lots of practice before trying this on your
> plane but it worked for me.
>
> Mike Wills
> RV-4 fuse
> willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Farrar" <fourazjs(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Camera in the VS? |
'One trim tab after another'??!! Gee Moe, you sound like you have Grand
Champion fever. Go for it. Jeff Farrar, RV8A, Empennage done waiting for
QB, Chandler, AZ
-----Original Message-----
From: MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net>
Date: Tuesday, July 14, 1998 7:18 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Camera in the VS?
>
>No matter what, it is a project for another day. I'm busy enough these
>days building one trim tab after another.
>
>Moe Colontonio
>moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net
>Check out my RV-8 page at:
>http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie question - attaching HS forward spar |
>How do I slip a skin over without removing the slide clamps that are holding
>the front spar at my double and triplechecked measurements?
>Georges video says to mount the lot in the jig first, and hold the tip ribs
>in place with the 1/4" threaded rod, which is fine, but even then, how can
>you hold the tip flange of the 602's against the tip rib web, and the 608's
>against the 602's while slipping on the skins to check the holes??
>Chris
Chris,
If your very sure of your measurements, you can drill #40 holes and cleco
the frame work together. If you're not quite so sure, you might want to use
double sided carpet tape to stick the parts together. Be careful and don't
used too much tape. It takes very little tape with the product that we are
using. There are many instances in building where this tape comes in handy
for temporary attachment. (Use too much and the installation could become
less temporary.
Bob Skinner RV-6 425 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | List Operational Update... |
Hello Listers,
I've made a number of improvments and upgrades to the List servers in the
last couple of weeks and thought I'd pass on the news...
- Battery Backup Power Added -
I've added two new APC 1.4 KVA Uninterruptable Power Supply systems (UPS) to
the email server and to the web server. Each UPS has enough battery power
to run the respective system and all of the associated networking gear for
over 3 hours! At the 3 hour mark, each system will automatically be shutdown
gracefully and the the UPS put into standby mode for automatic system
restart when the AC power is restored. I've extensivly tested both systems
and everything works great.
With three AC power outages here in less than a month, it seemed like a
good time to buy some insurance. The web server incountered disk errors
during all 3 outages and wouldn't reboot without manual disk checks and
restart. Both the email and web systems should be quite robust now, with
availability approching near 100%!
- Additional Memory Added to Web Server -
I have added an additional 256Mb of system RAM to the web server machine
for a total of 384Mb! Most all web access and archive searches are now
pulled directly from memory and overall system performance is outstanding.
The web server is running under Linux on a dual processor Pentium
Pro 200 Mhz system with a 10,000 rpm Seagate Cheetah system hard disk.
- More Improvments to the Archive Search Engine -
You may have noticed the new message return option added recently to the
Archive Search Engine. Message hit subjects are returned in one browser
window while the actual messages are displayed in a separate browser window.
This allows much more of the actual message to be displayed on the screen
at a time and also makes printing of each message more intutive. The original
three-frame return as well as the 'all messages' display options are also
still available.
I have been working through a number of data-dependant bugs in the search
engine and have addressed most all of the known problems. I'm still working
on the ability to return 'n' number of matches at a time and hope to
have to that fully functional this week. Currently, a maximum of 500 matches
can be returned, but this will be raised to 10,000 in 100, 200, or 500
batches soon.
The new search engine has been receiving 100-200 hits a day - a nearly 5 fold
hit increase over the previous engine - and the web server in general has been
seeing 3000-4000 hits a day (!), predominately from the RV and Zenith List
pages.
Best Regards - Party on...
Matt Dralle
RV and Zenith List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
>Is Van's still shipping those sorry "aerotrainers".
Yes!
Mine didn't hold
>up
>very well at all. For those ordering finishing kits, I would suggest
>getting a credit on the tires from Van's and buying some good quality
>rubber. It would be nice if Van's offered an option to upgrade. In
>this
>case, you definitly get what you pay for.
>
Your right, you do, but I would like to offer a reason for not buying
more expensive tires (at least not to start with).
When a new RV pilot first begins flying, most will find that the airplane
is much different than anything they have flown before.
My experience is that most new RV pilots get probably double the flying
hours on their "second" set of tires over what they got on the first set
of tires (even if they buy another set of cheapies).
It is true the tires that are supplied in the kits are not real high
quality, but why tear up a good set of tires in your first 100 hours of
flying?
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Draining Gascolator |
<< I'm looking for builders' experience regarding draining the gascolator. My
gascolator will be on the firewall, about 6" in from the side of the
firewall,
sitting just above the lower engine mount tube (RV-6A). It seems to me I
should orient the gascolator drain so it points toward the side of the
cowling,
and slightly forward. Then I can drill a 1" (or so) hole in the bottom of
the
cowling to allow access for my fuel sampling tube during preflight. >>
I made a small hinged door on the bottom of the lower cowl that provides
access. It's about 1/3 the size of the oil dipstick access door and has a
single camloc button latch vs two for the oil door. I saw this on Steve
Barnard's plane and copied it.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nigel Marshall" <Nigel_Marshall(at)meritorauto.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stall Warning |
The issue was April 1996
The source was:
Don Richardson
Sharbrook
Turnhill Road
High Dam
Langport
Somerset TA10 9DF
England
Price 20 pounds (=$33)
No fax or phone listed
However I sent the guy a cheque several weeks ago and have heard nothing.
Beware.
Nigel Marshall
Chevreuse, France
RV-4 (# 4062)
Skinning second wing
marshan(at)meritorauto.com
Glenn & Judi on 12/07/98 09:56:02
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Stall Warning
Hi,
I have found several archive references to an RV-ator article on a stall
warning indicator for an RV aircraft. Unfortunately an issue number
wasn't issued.
Could someone please tell me which issue it was in so that I can order a
back issue from Van's. Or better yet, if someone would be generous
enough to fax it to me, it would be greatly appreciated. My fax number
is (847) 291-9505.
Thank you,
Glenn Gordon
(Struggling to build in a one car garage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karl Ahamer" <ascot(at)hinet.net.au> |
| Subject: | vacuum regulator |
thanks to all who have replied to my questions,looks like i'm up for a few
dives under the instrument panel.....
K.H.Ahamer
near Sydney Australia
RV6AQ still wiring things up......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronald Vandervort <rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Slider Question |
Hello James,
My bit on the removal of the latch shaft, plus:
I did remove the shaft extension from the top side of the canopy, and
later placed a plastic bushing with collar in that spot to protect the
plexiglass. Made the collar from a plastic fitting I found in the plumbing
dept. at Home Base. Workds great and allowed a unrestricted fitting of
the canopy, and a more accurate placement of the hole for the latch.
Also in an earlier thread Scott McDanialls of Van's noted that to begin
fitting the canopy, first place plexiglass on canopy frame with the
frame off the airplane so as to allow no interference with the mold skirt.
Then position the canopy for and aft until the profile lines up most
nearly correctly. This is the position for the plexiglass.
Both of the above worked great for me.
Good luck,
Ron Vandervort, RV-6Q
Seattle area
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Idiot Alert! |
Guys
While we are on the subject, which is the bes type of filler to use on those
dings
Bondo or an Aluminium type filer.
Bill Sivori
N929RV ( Reserved )
One Wing Closed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cebrowne(at)dukeengineering.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A For Sale |
No sweat,
Just make the panel removable, or at least modular. I, for one, think that
console is a super idea. I can see the usefulness of making the console
removable, though.
Chris Browne
Atlanta
Tail all but done, -6A QB pickup Friday!
barnhart(at)a.crl.com on 07/14/98 09:26:52 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6A For Sale
>He has a really cool center throttle quadrant....anyone care to make this
a
>kit?
I would caution anyone contemplating installing a center console like that
shown on the afrementioned RV-6A that you are REALL GONNA HATE IT the first
time you have to work under the panel.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
RV-6 sn 23744 N601DB
Flying
n the baffling than I absolutely have to, so am leaning
toward a single hole in the rear of the baffling on the pilot side. From
that hole I'm thinking of using a "Y" splitter to supply air to each of the
heat muffs. I wonder if this will supply sufficient air?
Comments/suggestions/experiences?
Thanks, gang!
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anderson Ed" <anderson_ed(at)bah.com> |
| Subject: | Re: List Operational Update... |
Thanks Matt, for making this all possible.
Ed RV-6A N494BW
Matt Dralle 510-606-1001 wrote:
>
> Hello Listers,
>
> I've made a number of improvments and upgrades to the List servers in the
> last couple of weeks and thought I'd pass on the news...
________________________________________________________________________________
<< At 5000 ft density altitude 65 percent power, full rich in my RV-6 is about
12 gph. When leaned out (not even aggressively leaning) it drops to 8 gph.
That's a lot.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
RV-6 sn 23744 N601DB
Flying >>
Dave:
What method are you using to lean your bird? Fuel flow (from a power chart),
EGT, or lean 'er till she shakes and richen up a bit? What is your indicated
(TAS would be better) airspeed at what indicated fuel flow?
Please post to the list
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rimbold <rimbold(at)ntr.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Idiot Alert! |
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
> > Also, hold the swivel head in place with your spare hand.
>
> Uh..... if you are holding the rivet gun with one hand, and the bucking
> bar with the other, then your spare hand goes on the swivel head? I must
> have been short-changed...my ole body didn't come with any spares.....
>
>
>
> Sam
Ah ha! I hold the gun with one hand, the swivel head with the other
hand, and *Bernie* holds the bucking bar! :-)
You must have some loooong arms to be able to reach underneath that
side skin and back up to the curve!
--
--------
Rob Rimbold, rimbold(at)ntr.net, S. Florida
RV-6A wings and gear on fuselage, upside down in jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Thomas <wd_thomas(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Idiot Alert! |
I'm doing this fun task right now. Reaching up underneath is possible for me
because I have long arms, but this method is very awkward. Simplest way to do
it
is to reach SIDEWAYS into the riveting area, rather than up from underneath.
Start riveting at the aft end of the skin, leave the unriveted forward portion
of
the skin hanging loose (it will be very floppy), and reach into the work area from
the side. This way, it's easy to reach the entire riveting area, including the
lower curve at the aft end of the side skin.
Bill Thomas
rimbold wrote:
>
> Sam Buchanan wrote:
> >
> > > Also, hold the swivel head in place with your spare hand.
> >
> > Uh..... if you are holding the rivet gun with one hand, and the bucking
> > bar with the other, then your spare hand goes on the swivel head? I must
> > have been short-changed...my ole body didn't come with any spares.....
> >
> >
> >
> > Sam
>
> Ah ha! I hold the gun with one hand, the swivel head with the other
> hand, and *Bernie* holds the bucking bar! :-)
>
> You must have some loooong arms to be able to reach underneath that
> side skin and back up to the curve!
>
> --
> --------
> Rob Rimbold, rimbold(at)ntr.net, S. Florida
> RV-6A wings and gear on fuselage, upside down in jig
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Baffling holes for cabin heaters |
I have had really good luck with my setup. I have excess heat even for
Canadian winters. I placed one hole in the front left baffle deck. I
dropped a short piece of scat down to the first of two Robbins heat
muffs mounted on the front crossovers. A short piece of scat loops to
the second muff on the aft crossover. Then a straight piece of scat
across the bottom of the sump beside the oil drain to the cabin heat
selector. The result is a minimum amount of $cat tube and a simple
routing from the front of engine to the firewall. The front baffle is a
high pressure area that provides a gale force breeze.
I have a second hole on the rear right baffle that I use in the summer
to drop a short piece to the cabin selector for extra ventilation. I
just remove the muffs and scat tubes and move the aft plug to the
forward hole.
Terry Jantzi
C-GZRV RV-6 (first 330 hours unpainted, out of the paint shop this week)
Kitchener ON
Lewis, Timothy, MAJ, AF/XOIWO wrote:
>
> I decided to go with separate Robbins heater muffs and heater boxes for the
> pilot and passenger side of my RV-6A. I'm trying to figure out where to put
> the hole (or holes) in the engine baffling to feed air to the heat muffs. I
> already have a large hole in the rear pax side of the baffling to feed air
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WoodardRod(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | VM Fuel System Sold |
Hello listers!
A fellow lister agreed to puchase my VM Fuel System. In fact, he was the first
person on the list who responsed. So... if you also responded, I am sorry, but
you'll have to pay retail! :-)
I still have my -8 wing kit--and I'm hoping for a Denver area builder so I
don't have to build crates and ship the darn thing via common carrier.
Best to all...
Rod Woodard
Loveland, Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Baffle Kit for sale |
I am selling a RV-6/A O-320 baffle kit from Van's due to a change in
configuration. asking $135.00
Contact off net, harje(at)proaxis.com
Have a good one!
Denny Harjehausen
RV-6 Fiberglass/systems
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Riveting problem |
| From: | smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS) |
I meant to post to Sam B's message but accidently deleted it (and all the
others in the thread).
Sam it's too lat to help you keep from making the dents already made but
I can maybe help you reduce the likely hood that you will do it again.
I have posted about this before but many on the list may not have ever
heard it.
I always recommend to builders that they never bother with a standard air
line regulator to try and control a rivet gun.
Get one of the air tool regulators that is sold by Avery tools (not the
little ball valve swivel thing, the one I am describing has a detented
control knob on it) and put it on the inlet port of your gun, and use it
to set the gun the way you want it.
In our shop at Van's we keep all of the air lines at max. pressure
(110 to 120 PSI) and use one of these regulators on any tool that needs
less than that (we even use one on our cheapy spray gun that we do our
priming with... it only takes one time to blow the bottom out of the gun
paint cup; ask me how I know).
If you follow this advice you will never plug a rivet gun into a hose and
forget to readjust the regulator ( the one on the gun will still be set
at what ever you left it at last time).
BTW these regulators can really help with riveting also because they have
such a fine adjustment. Some times while riveting it helps to readjust
as you move from light (easy to vibrate) structure like wing ribs, to
heavier structure like the main wing spar. As you are riveting you can
adjust 1 or 2 clicks up or down as needed to compensate for variations in
structure, etc.
Try it, You'll like it!
Scott McDaniels
These opinions and ideas are my own
and do not necessarily reflect the opinions
of my employer.
--BAAAA28681.900481238/x14.boston.juno.com--
--------- End forwarded message ----------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hank Eilts <eilts(at)ti.com> |
To all,
I am using a Harbour Freight touch up spray gun for priming. The cup is
coated
on the inside with what looks like teflon, but may be an enamel
coating. This spray
gun has served me well up until now.
On my last round of spraying (on the rudder skin interior), the coating
began to detach,
causing the gun to sputter and spit particles of the coating material
onto my
rudder skin.
My problem is that the cup is now only partially coated with the
teflon/enamel. I
don't want to use it again until I completely remove the coating that
remains. I
tried an overnight soaking in laquer thinner (the recommended thinner
for the primer)
but no joy. The primer is the Sherman Williams industrial wash primer,
and is
catalysed with a mild acid, which also gives it a self etching
property. I suspect
that the acid in the catalyst is what attacked the spray gun coating.
Have any of
you encountered this problem, and do you have any suggestions?
Thanks in advance.
Hank Eilts
RV-6 tail under construction.
PS. It's warming up a bit here in Dallas. Summer should be here soon.
:>)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Idiot Alert! |
rimbold wrote:
>
>
> Sam Buchanan wrote:
> >
> > > Also, hold the swivel head in place with your spare hand.
> >
> > Uh..... if you are holding the rivet gun with one hand, and the bucking
> > bar with the other, then your spare hand goes on the swivel head? I must
> > have been short-changed...my ole body didn't come with any spares.....
> >
> >
> >
> > Sam
>
> Ah ha! I hold the gun with one hand, the swivel head with the other
> hand, and *Bernie* holds the bucking bar! :-)
>
> You must have some loooong arms to be able to reach underneath that
> side skin and back up to the curve!
Rob, the sequence I am using is as follows (and by the way, the reason I
am riveting much of the skins by myself is because I can often work in
the mornings when everybody else is at "work"):
1) cleco right aft side skin to fuse. Then reach OVER the skin to rivet
to the skeleton.
2) cleco aft bottom skin and tail skin to fuse. Now the right side and
bottom skins can be riveted together by reaching from the left side and
from the cabin area.
3) rivet right side and tail skin by reaching in from left side.
4) cleco right side skin. Yep, I will have to have some help getting the
curved part of this side riveted, but I can reach most of the skin from
the bottom.
A similar sequence will be used for the remaining skins (I think....).
The riveting that will require an extra set of hands will be minimal.
(And I usually don't have ding problems when I use the proper air
pressure.....sigh....)
Sam Buchanan
sbuc(at)traveller.com
"The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
Mlfred(at)aol.com wrote:
> Dave:
> What method are you using to lean your bird? Fuel flow (from a power chart),
> EGT, or lean 'er till she shakes and richen up a bit? What is your indicated
> (TAS would be better) airspeed at what indicated fuel flow?
>
> Please post to the list
>
> Check six!
> Mark
I was told to lean until your passenger's knuckles turn white, then
richen slightly....
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
I used to spray rockets on the STAR WARS program with some pretty nasty
ablative coating, and we had the same problem with a new gun that we
bought...we ditched the cup, and got a stainless steel cup with no
lining...as long as you clean it each time you use it, you do not need the
Teflon lining...
BTW, when it is time for painting, I would reccommend you spend the extra
bucks on a quality gun with precision needles like a Binks. For primer I
wouldn't worry about it...or go buy the Sherwin Williams 988 self etching
primer in a can, and it will solve your priming problems forever! (oh no,
not another priming thread!!!!!!)
If you cant find a new cup, call a chemical company and get either
Methylene Chloride, or Methyl Isobutal Keytone (MIBK as it is commonly
known) and one of these really harsh chemicals will take it off....as
always, wear skin and eye protection when working with this stuff!
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
Panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <dwalsh(at)ecentral.com> |
| Subject: | Sun N Fun scrapbook |
Can someone give me the address of the home page which had all the neat
RV pictures from sun N fun?
Dwalsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Dunlap <chuck(at)zekes.com> |
Today I removed the battery from my RV-4 because is has been in service
for 5 years and 500 hours. It is still cranking just fine. It is a
Powersonic PS-12330 33 Amp Hour. I ordered another one from
Batteries,Batteries (888-222-8837). The list price was $69.95 but they
are selling to me for $56.00 because they misquoted me a first. I just
wanted to pass this along because I thought this is exceptional service
from any battery, let alone a sealed gel-cell which which supposedly has
a short life when used to crank an engine. Its also a lot cheaper than
the Concorde RG.
Chuck Dunlap
RV-4 N914RV 570 hours flying
RV-6 with Mazda 13B under construction
Southeast Arizona
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Camera in the VS? |
?? No. 34V. Valentine might fly by Christmas.
hal
>
> Hal,
> I just read this post....do I interpret it to read that you are
> flying Valentine to OSH?????
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Hank Eilts wrote:
>
> To all,
>
> I am using a Harbour Freight touch up spray gun for priming. The cup
> is
> coated
> on the inside with what looks like teflon, but may be an enamel
> coating. This spray
> gun has served me well up until now.
>
> On my last round of spraying (on the rudder skin interior), the
> coating
> began to detach,
> causing the gun to sputter and spit particles of the coating material
>
> onto my
> rudder skin.
Hank,
Try the Harbor Freight HVLP gun. You'll get better ressults and use much
less material. The gravity
feed cup is plastic. The gun is easy to clean also. Price is $59 up
depending on which of the catalogs you buy out of.
Ed Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donspawn(at)Juno.com |
>On my last round of spraying (on the rudder skin interior), the coating
>began to detach, causing the gun to sputter and spit particles of the
coating material onto my rudder skin.
>Hank Eilts
>RV-6 tail under construction.
>
>PS. It's warming up a bit here in Dallas. Summer should be here soon.
Mine did the same. I am only priming so with L. Thinner stored in it the
coating has gone away. Just veriprimed the ribs for the fuselage & turned
out great. I haven't use it for finish yet. I am just 20 west of you &
its so hot I havn't worked but 4 hours this week.
Don Jordan ~ 76DJ ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robin.y.wessel(at)exgate.tek.com |
| Subject: | Spraying with HVLP |
Listers-
I just wanted to share my experiences (as a beginner) using the Devilbiss
HVLP gun ( ~$140 Finishline suction model). Being a newbie spray painter, I
tried priming the empennage framework with SW 980. Following the limited
instructions to the letter, I was disappointed with the quality of the spray
output. The gun sprayed out very weak and did not atomize well causing lots
of runs. Luckily this was primer, so finish quality was not super
important. Following the instructions, I set the regulator at the
compressor at 30PSI. Allowing for the hose, this indicated 23psi (the max
allowed- written on the gun handle) at the heal of the gun. This I found out
is NOT the way to set up the air for a conversion HVLP gun.
The best thing to do is turn up the regulator at the compressor (50-60 psi)
and regulate the pressure at the gun. This allows for a high volume of air
to travel down the hose. Setting it this way, the gun worked great! I was
really worried for a while, convinced that spray painting would be something
impossible to do correctly. For those who sofar have been disappointed with
their inexpensive HVLP guns, make sure that you set the regulator this way.
I was surprised to find that my Sears 30 gal 5.5 hp compressor could barely
keep up with the air volume. A paint shop pro later mentioned to me that
high-end conversion HVLP guns don't work very well unless you have at least
15-17 cfm @40psi.
Robin Wessel
RV-6A
robin.y.wessel(at)tek.com
http://robin.getbiz.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sun N Fun scrapbook |
"The RV Journal"
http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6
Denis Walsh wrote:
>
>
> Can someone give me the address of the home page which had all the neat
> RV pictures from sun N fun?
>
> Dwalsh
>
> x-mozilla-cpt: ;0
> x-mozilla-html: FALSE
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n5lp <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
To those that are interested, Sensenich has advised me that they are now
shipping the 72FM8 propellers for 0360's. Mine is due to arrive from
August 7th to 15th. Ed at Sensenich said they are trying to get
production up to 1 a day but are a little slow due to the new tip shape.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
Pacer N8025D
RV-6Q N441LP Reserved
Fuel System
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roberto Giusti <roby(at)mail.com> |
| Subject: | Anyone in Long Beach |
Listers,
I will be flying into LAX Thursday evening (16 Jul) and staying in Long
Beach all day Friday and Saturday morning.
Are there any RV builders in the area willing to lure me into building one
of these beasts?
I am considering building an RV 4 or 8.
Please respond off list.
TIA,
Roberto Giusti
roby(at)mail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Spraying with HVLP |
Robin Wessel said:
>>I was surprised to find that my Sears 30 gal 5.5 hp compressor could barely
keep up with the air volume. A paint shop pro later mentioned to me that
high-end conversion HVLP guns don't work very well unless you have at least
15-17 cfm @40psi<<
I think my Campbell Hausfield 5 hp 25 gallon is rated at 10 cfm at 120psi. I
wonder how to figure what that reduces to in cfm at 40 psi? Let's see pressure
and volume multiplied is a constant, right?
10 * 120 = 40 * x
x = 30 cfm? I doubt it.
What am i doing wrong - or more to the point, what can one get from a 5 hp 120
psi compressor when it is dropped to 40 psi?
One painter told me that it will support one hvlp gun, especially if one stops
now and then as beginners are apt to do. Paint a wing. Rest. Paint the tail.
Rest etc.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | These wing notes are fantastic!! |
I usually don't say too much, but when I find something this helpful, I got
to let everyone know...(for those that don't already)
Will Cretsinger has taken the time to write out his wing notes, fuse jig
notes and tilt up canopy notes. I used (and I mean REALLY used) the wing
notes. Step by step. I just finished the flaps and ailerons - with NO
surprises!! and they look great!! I am now in the process of hanging the
ailerons and have no worries that they will go good as well.
I can whole heartedly recommend them. I owe ya, Will!!
They are parked behind the red RV-6A at web location
http://www.flash.net/~gila
PS: Will did not pay me to say this!! ;)
Larry Olson
RV6 - Hanging Ailerons
Cave Creek, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spraying with HVLP |
I ordered one of the Harbour Freight HVLP guns and when I read the
literature, discovered it required 9 cfm to operate it. I returned it for a
refund as my compressor will not come close to that volume.
Les Williams/RV=6AQ/ Tacoma WA
>
>Listers-
>
>I just wanted to share my experiences (as a beginner) using the Devilbiss
>HVLP >
>I was surprised to find that my Sears 30 gal 5.5 hp compressor could barely
>keep up with the air volume. A paint shop pro later mentioned to me that
>high-end conversion HVLP guns don't work very well unless you have at least
>15-17 cfm @40psi.
>Robin Wessel
>RV-6A
>robin.y.wessel(at)tek.com
>http://robin.getbiz.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BPattonsoa(at)aol.com |
My Harbor freight touch up destructed just like you describe about one week
ago. I was using it with Randolph Ranthane (polyurethane) on a small part. I
use a good Binks gun for 90% of my finish work, but it had worked Ok and
requires less mixed paint to work.
The problem was inside the gun, not the paint cup. My cup is uncoated. The
area behind the nozzle is apparently lined in something that gave up the ghost
and started comming apart.
I have used the thing for over 6 years, sprayed acrylic enamel, self-etching
primer, Randolph epoxy primer, and some things that are best left
unidentified. Appears they line that part of the interior with something to
protect the cheap casting from chemicals, or just to make it water tight.
I went down and got a Sears touch up gun, appears the same on the outside, but
it has a different nozzel. Could be it is lined also, but I ain't got a lot
to paint, and only use this on a rare occasion.
Bruce Patton
All painted but the Fues
RV-6A N596S
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WstcttPrss(at)aol.com |
[un]subscribe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: RV Aircraft Upholstery |
Hi Carol,
Will any of your seats be visible at OSH? Any customers?
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Philip A Lehrke" <plehrke(at)email.msn.com> |
A friend of mine is thinking about building a RV-8 and installing an IO-540.
Is anybody already doing a IO-540 installation in an -8? Is anybody turning
a RV-8 into a Rocket?
Phil Lehrke
RV-6A
Instrument Panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bpboyd(at)cdsnet.net (Bruce & Suzy) |
Selling my RV-6, 160hp. Very clean plane. 230hrs. TT 250hrs. SMOH
Asking $50,000. For more info. Please call or E-mail me direct...Thanks
Bruce Boyd
bpboyd(at)cdsnet.net
541-533-2348
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Smith <kpsmith(at)ais.net> |
| Subject: | Wing Ribs W/O Lightening holes |
I have an old wing kit in my shop (which grows older as I procrastinate)
without lightening holes. Someone suggested that those seeking longer
range are also seeking ribs without said holes, to make new fuel bays.
Will swap...rib for rib.
Contact me off line.
Ken Smith
Plainfield IL
RV-6 VS done, HS waiting and waiting for assembly...
kpsmith(at)ais.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Slider Question |
| From: | rvsixer(at)Juno.com (michael d hilger) |
>At Mitch Faatz's suggestion, I moved the canopy (after the rough trim)
>fore and
>aft till I got the center tube of the slider frame to fit as closely
>as
>possible. Then I began to trim the front, half an inch at a time till
>it stayed
>up off the front skin. It still did not fit the roll over bar at the
>top but I
>don't think it ever will till either I get up there and sit on it or
>split the
>windscreen from the sliding part.
>
>
After reading every scrap of info about the job, I started work
on the dreaded canopy. Like Jim Cone (Thanks, Jim!), I used a lot of
suggestions and added my own ideas. I did indeed remove the upper part of
the latch tube and it has helped fitting. I also cut the windscreen away
from the rest very early in the process. This allows you to fit the
windscreen nicely and also allows you to place the canopy on the frame
pretty much wherever you please to make it fit. I left a lot of extra
plex at the rear bow and was able to move it forward so the center tube
will need no shims. I also spent a lot of time tweaking the canopy frame
to fit the roll bar and aft fuse (spend the time, it is worth it). No
cutting/welding needed, luckily. Not looking forward to the 'glass work
though....
Mike Hilger, (Minnesota)
RV-6 N207AM, Canopy fun.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com |
| Subject: | Re: Spraying with HVLP |
I think the confusion could be between Cubic Feet / Minute and Standard Cubic
Feet / Minute. SCFM (which is what compressors are rated by) is measured at 14.7
psia and ?15C? ( I usually use metric) and is a measurement of mass flow (and
compressor displacement by cycles) and is therefore constant at a constant
compressor speed). If you want more air you have to spin your compressor faster.
(I am of course assuming no-one out there is using a centrifugal compressor
where the rules are slightly different).
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-List: Spraying with HVLP
Date: 15-07-98 15:20
I think my Campbell Hausfield 5 hp 25 gallon is rated at 10 cfm at 120psi. I
wonder how to figure what that reduces to in cfm at 40 psi? Let's see pressure
and volume multiplied is a constant, right?
10 * 120 = 40 * x
x = 30 cfm? I doubt it.
What am i doing wrong - or more to the point, what can one get from a 5 hp 120
psi compressor when it is dropped to 40 psi?
One painter told me that it will support one hvlp gun, especially if one stops
now and then as beginners are apt to do. Paint a wing. Rest. Paint the tail.
Rest etc.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Glover <glovebox(at)smartt.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spraying with HVLP |
Hal Kempthorne wrote:
>
>
> Robin Wessel said:
>
> >>I was surprised to find that my Sears 30 gal 5.5 hp compressor could barely
> keep up with the air volume.
>
> I think my Campbell Hausfield 5 hp 25 gallon is rated at 10 cfm at 120psi.
I
> wonder how to figure what that reduces to in cfm at 40 psi? Let's see pressure
>
> 30 cfm? I doubt it.
>
> What am i doing wrong - or more to the point, what can one get from a 5 hp 120
> psi compressor when it is dropped to 40 psi?
>
>
Answer: 10 CFM, if you believe their specs. OK, maybe 11 CFM.
OK, guys and gals, back when I had a C-182 ( and a wife) I turned it
into a giant rebuild project...but that's another story.
Part of the rebuild included painting and the acquisition and outfitting
of a
suitable shop and air compressor/painting system. I bugged a lot of
sales and
technical people at some of the biggest air compressor manufacturers in
North America. You shoulda seen the phone bills! I could probably
write a series of articles about my adventures in air-land, but I'll
spare you the gory details...for now.
Basically, the CFM of a particular compressor has more to do with the
displacement in cubic inches of the pump and its rotation speed in RPM,
and not so much to do with pressure. Yes, a compressor will put out a
bit more CFM at a lower pressure, but I think that has more to do with
the losses in the pump at
higher pressures.
A two-stage compressor will pump your tank up to a higher pressure,
giving you
a greater reserve volume. Although my present compressor has a
two-stage pump,
in my opinion it is not necessary. Two-stage pumps and resultant higher
pressures generate more heat. The measured temperature of the pipe
carrying the air from the pump to the tank was over 200 degrees F. when
the compressor was operating. I keep thinking it was 275 deg. but will
measure
it again.
I was at Arlington last weekend and had my first experience with one of
those
funny little air compressors with a direct drive vane pumps (I think).
Very
noisy and extremely irritating. Stick to a piston-style pump,
preferrably
cast iron, belt driven and don't skimp. Try to find someone that owns a
compressor similar to what you are attracted to and see how it works
before you plunk down hard cash for some turkey that drives you and your
family crazy every time you use it, then starts pumping oil just about
the time you want to start serious painting.
Buy it right! Buy it once!
Regards,
Tom (very opinionated and avoiding discussions of HVLP) Glover
Surrey, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
Listers,
I am presently reassembling my Lycoming O 235. I had planned to fly my puddle
jumper to Oshkosh to see all the RVs and ask thousands of questions, but my
engine parts are en route from Lycoming in Pa. to New York via Van Bortel in
Texas and I may be held up waiting for parts. Maybe I could hitch a ride with
one of you guys who is flying out. I am in upstate NY. I'll split the fuel
and expenses.
Anyhow, I measured my rod bearings last night to ensure correct tolerances
before I torque them down. My rod bearing to crankshaft oil gap is 0.003.
Lycoming says it shall be 0.0008 to 0.0038. Service limit is 0.005. Mine is
at the top of the range with a freshly overhauled crankshaft and new inserts.
It just seems a little loose to me, but I am inexperienced in this area.
Should I go ahead with reassembly with the oil gap near the top of the service
limit, or will I have problems with a gap of 0.003 ?
Mark McGee
RV4 Wings delayed until I get my Colt running again
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pbennett(at)zip.com.au |
| Subject: | Australian Experimental Category |
I am delighted to be able to advise that after decades of arguing
with bureaucrats, Australian homebuilders have at last got a US style
Experimental Category.
The Governor General signed the Act into law at 11.45 am on Wednesday
15th July.
Many dedicated people have contributed to this landmark achievement,
but it is undoubtedly the determined leadership of the National
President of the Sport Aircraft Association of Australia, Peter
Wilkinson, which has brought this about. May his Nieuport now take to
the skies, unfettered by the weight of Canberra shiney-bums.
Peter Bennett
Sydney Australia
RV6 doing cowls
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rocket RV-8??? |
<< A friend of mine is thinking about building a RV-8 and installing an
IO-540.
Is anybody already doing a IO-540 installation in an -8? Is anybody turning
a RV-8 into a Rocket?
Phil Lehrke
RV-6A >>
Have your friend contact me or John Harmon (805-836-1028). I see no reason for
him to re-invent the wheel...such a plane already exists, and it's called the
Harmon Rocket II. Not everyone needs one, but those who do *know* who they
are.
Check six!
Mark
HR2 265 hrs Austin, TX
512-365-8131
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Assembly |
>I am presently reassembling my Lycoming O 235.
>Anyhow, I measured my rod bearings last night to ensure correct tolerances
>before I torque them down. My rod bearing to crankshaft oil gap is 0.003.
>Lycoming says it shall be 0.0008 to 0.0038. Service limit is 0.005. Mine is
>at the top of the range with a freshly overhauled crankshaft and new inserts.
>It just seems a little loose to me, but I am inexperienced in this area.
>Should I go ahead with reassembly with the oil gap near the top of the
service
>limit, or will I have problems with a gap of 0.003 ?
>Mark McGee
>RV4 Wings delayed until I get my Colt running again
I usually shoot for .0025" rod clearance. Since there is no legal way to
adjust it other than machining the crank and going to O/S bearings I think
that you will have to accept whatever your machinist gave you for the OD of
the crank journal.
EVERYTHING in a Lycoming is "loose" compared to water cooled automotive
tolerances. Part of it is from the aircooled nature of the beast, part is
because they are 30's technology, and part "because we've always done it
that way".
I suggest you use some plasti-gauge and find out what your actual
clearances are before you sweat the measured sizes subtraced from each
other. If this were an experimental engine for your RV and you were of a
mind to experiment with the means to change the clearance you could try
some shim stock behind *1* bearing shell (about 0.0005" or 5 Ten
thousandths), having the big end reworked to tighten up the crush on the
bearing, etc.
When you say "freshly OH" crank, did they *grind* it and renitride or just
polish it? If it is STD and it was OH, then you just had it polished
(maybe 0.0005" undersize) and cleaned. If it is M03P03 then it was
*polished* down to 0.003" undersize and cleaned. If it is M06P06 then it
was *ground* .006" undersize, renitrided and cleaned. The STD shaft is
always going to have *larger* oil clearances than the book since they
removed material to polish it.
Bob Steward, A&P IA
AA-1B N8978L
AA-5A N1976L
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Unistar Computers <unistar(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing tip designs |
>Can anyone direct me to research reports about wing tip characteristics?
>Charles Woodson
If you can still find him, Richard Finch did some aero work back in the
80's and produced the "finch tip". He claimed to be able to push the wing
tip votex outboard and gain "virtual" wingspan. Claimed to have flown
Finch Tips on a Beech Baron and others. I have his book somewhere. Watch
Sport Av and Kitplanes for his ads.
His Finch tip extended out behind the wing TE an appreciable % of the wing
chord. This would provide an excellent place to gore oneself coming around
the wing.
Bob Steward, A&P IA
AA-1B N8978L
AA-5A N1976L
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
Mark,
For what its worth, I have read (TBO Advisor I think) that it is better
to build the engine loose than tight. I don't know the rationale.
Ken Harrill
RV - 6, fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: FMark40(at)aol.com [mailto:FMark40(at)aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 1998 6:27 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Engine Assembly
Listers,
I am presently reassembling my Lycoming O 235. I had
planned to fly my puddle
jumper to Oshkosh to see all the RVs and ask thousands
of questions, but my
engine parts are en route from Lycoming in Pa. to New
York via Van Bortel in
Texas and I may be held up waiting for parts. Maybe I
could hitch a ride with
one of you guys who is flying out. I am in upstate NY.
I'll split the fuel
and expenses.
Anyhow, I measured my rod bearings last night to ensure
correct tolerances
before I torque them down. My rod bearing to crankshaft
oil gap is 0.003.
Lycoming says it shall be 0.0008 to 0.0038. Service
limit is 0.005. Mine is
at the top of the range with a freshly overhauled
crankshaft and new inserts.
It just seems a little loose to me, but I am
inexperienced in this area.
Should I go ahead with reassembly with the oil gap near
the top of the service
limit, or will I have problems with a gap of 0.003 ?
Mark McGee
RV4 Wings delayed until I get my Colt running again
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Spraying with HVLP |
The answer to the HVLP delema, although not cheap is a turbine
powered system. You never run out of air! The turbine unit is easy
to pick up and move around, The cleanup is easy. The air is heated
and there is no moisture problem. Several people could co own one
and possibly sell it when done. I really like my Wagner Capspray
system! It works beautifully! It will make a person a pro with alittle
practice! I was going to sell mine after painting a Ultra Pup. I couldn't.
Kept it and painted My RV4. Just ask people how it came out!
RVer273sb RV4 CO.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing tip designs |
>Can anyone direct me to research reports about wing tip characteristics?
>Charles Woodson >>
Charles:
I pulled this from my archives (re:Hoerner books) , I hope it helps! You may
want to try to build a set of "Hott Tips" to fit your -3. The design is v easy
to duplicate with the proper form blocks, and I'll help you with that if you'd
like.
Check six!
Mark
I have both and the Fluid Dynamic Drag is the better book to buy. Both books
are interesting and written in plain language that is easy to understand.
They are the best books on aerodynamics ever written and as still used as text
books today.
Jim Cone
jamescone(at)aol.com
RV-6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | PHX area beta tester needed |
Listers:
I need a favor. A local gent has come up with an 'additional cooling' device.
This device has a sort of chamber that fits around the oil filter housing.
This chamber is connected to a 2" hose connected to the engine baffle at some
convenient place. He has seen a 15degF drop in oil temp on his bird. I thought
of RVers maybe using such a device in the summer, and removing the thing in
the winter.
So, I'd like a volunteer to try the thing. Any takers? I'd do it, but I have a
screen and not a filter.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.hsd.utc.com> |
| Subject: | Australian Experimental Category |
Peter,
Congratulations! This should make it significantly easier for all
you down under to get more RV's into the air.....
Fred Stucklen
N925RV RV-6A
E. Windsor, Ct
>-----Original Message-----
>From: pbennett(at)zip.com.au [SMTP:pbennett(at)zip.com.au]
>Sent: Thursday, July 16, 1998 5:07 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Australian Experimental Category
>
>
>I am delighted to be able to advise that after decades of arguing
>with bureaucrats, Australian homebuilders have at last got a US style
>Experimental Category.
>
>The Governor General signed the Act into law at 11.45 am on Wednesday
>15th July.
>
>Many dedicated people have contributed to this landmark achievement,
>but it is undoubtedly the determined leadership of the National
>President of the Sport Aircraft Association of Australia, Peter
>Wilkinson, which has brought this about. May his Nieuport now take to
>the skies, unfettered by the weight of Canberra shiney-bums.
>
>
>
>
>Peter Bennett
>Sydney Australia
>RV6 doing cowls
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
The FAA sez all maneuvers the a/c will ever be approved to do must be
documented as having been done during phase one of the test period. Ergo, I
am trying to recall the particulars of the rolls I did with Mike Segar a few
months ago. Those and the wing-overs constute all the acro training I've ever
had, but having Mike along to demonstrate and then supervise certainly made
the maneuvers seem effortless. Until now, I have not even considered trying
any tame acro until I got the engine running reliably, but I believe I'm there
now.
Rolls, as I recall, were entered at about 130 mph IAS with a gradual pullup to
about 30 degrees nose high, then a deliberate but gentle full aileron
deflection to the stops, just enough back pressure to keep the maneuver
positive, and no rudder (but I can't be sure if rudder was needed or not.)
The maneuver ended with a slight nose down attitude and a bit of airspeed
increase from which we pulled out gently with little altitude loss. We did
all rolls to the left; are they harder to do to the right, against the
propeller torque? What is likely to happen if one botches a roll and dishes-
out partway through? I don't recall ever feeling like that was going to
happen, but I'd like to know anyway...
Wingovers were a matter of a steep 30 degree climb followed by a gentle 90
degree roll on the upline, allowing the plane to fall through on the low wing,
then a 90 degree roll in the opposite direction to allow a wing-level pull-up
at the bottom. I forget the entry speed we used. I have already done a few
of these on my own, no problem so far.
I've never spun any plane; not about to try this one on purpose.. but would
like to hear suggestions for the above maneuvers to make them as clean and
safe as possible, considering I have to be alone when I try them :-)
Bill Boyd
rv-6A 15 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Assembly |
Hi all,
Bob Steward wrote:
> I suggest you use some plasti-gauge and find out what your actual
> clearances are before you sweat the measured sizes subtraced from each
> other. If this were an experimental engine for your RV and you were of a
> mind to experiment with the means to change the clearance you could try
> some shim stock behind *1* bearing shell (about 0.0005" or 5 Ten
> thousandths), having the big end reworked to tighten up the crush on the
> bearing, etc.
Plastigage is the only way to go for measuring the clearance but shims?
They used to shim the old Chevy "stovebolt" six, the in-line six cylinder
engines that were built low on precision but hell for stout. I suppose we are
talking about the Lycoming era but shims do degrade the flow of heat from piston
to oil, crankshaft etc. But Bob and Lycoming are the best authorities!
Engines on the loose side of acceptable wear out sooner but produce more power.
Loosening up the clearances does make them go faster. This is especially true
of piston/cylinder clearances. More than 25% of the engines generated
horsepower goes to overcoming the internal friction. A tired engine that burns
too much oil can turn out more power than a newer one!
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Barry Boepple" <barry(at)summetric.com> |
Hi Bill,
In regards to doing acro in any airplane, DON'T DO IT.......Unless you have
had adequate dual with a qualified instructor. Asking for advice over the
Internet on how to perform a particular set of maneuvers is probably not the
wisest thing to do. You could easily get bad advise and have catastrophic
results.
Don't take me wrong, I love acro. I had several hours of dual in a Skybolt,
prior to doing them on my own. I still continue to enjoy them. Believe me,
the Skybolt is much more forgiving than an RV when it comes to botched
maneuvers, and I botched my share. Don't think you won't do the same. As you
know, the RV's are very slippery airplanes, and when you point the nose
down, you can be at Vne in a heart beat. In addition, do not be misled that
you will never spin the airplane. A botched wing over is the perfect set up
for a spin. Do you know how to recover? Do you know the PAR procedure? You
should be well versed and comfortable in spinning. They are a perfectly safe
maneuver to do (and quite fun). If not understood.........well you know the
rest of this story. Trying to figure out how to recover from a spin as the
result of a botched maneuver is a terrible time to learn. This is just one
of the many ways to screw up. The more likely result of a botched maneuver
is overspeeding and over G'ing the airplane. It doesn't take a lot of stick
pressure in an RV at 200 mph to pull a lot of G's. If your not used to
pulling G's GLOC (G induced loss of consciousness) in another distinct
possibility. Do you know how to increase your tolerance to G's?
I would highly advise you to get the appropriate instruction prior to trying
any acro in your airplane. If you are concerned about the FAA and
documentation, ask or hire someone to do it for you who has time doing acro
in your type of RV. It's not worth becoming another statistic. Let's keep
the RV record as clean as possible.
I don't want to sound like a nag, but this is big stuff. It's great fun, but
must be handled with right attitude and preparation.
I would be happy to discuss this with you further if you would like. E-mail
me if you would like to talk.
Thanks
Barry
RV-8, Almost done with the finish Kit (not a quick build)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
SportAV8R(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 1998 12:53 PM
Subject: RV-List: basic acro
The FAA sez all maneuvers the a/c will ever be approved to do must be
documented as having been done during phase one of the test period. Ergo, I
am trying to recall the particulars of the rolls I did with Mike Segar a few
months ago. Those and the wing-overs constute all the acro training I've
ever
had, but having Mike along to demonstrate and then supervise certainly made
the maneuvers seem effortless. Until now, I have not even considered trying
any tame acro until I got the engine running reliably, but I believe I'm
there
now.
Rolls, as I recall, were entered at about 130 mph IAS with a gradual pullup
to
about 30 degrees nose high, then a deliberate but gentle full aileron
deflection to the stops, just enough back pressure to keep the maneuver
positive, and no rudder (but I can't be sure if rudder was needed or not.)
The maneuver ended with a slight nose down attitude and a bit of airspeed
increase from which we pulled out gently with little altitude loss. We did
all rolls to the left; are they harder to do to the right, against the
propeller torque? What is likely to happen if one botches a roll and
dishes-
out partway through? I don't recall ever feeling like that was going to
happen, but I'd like to know anyway...
Wingovers were a matter of a steep 30 degree climb followed by a gentle 90
degree roll on the upline, allowing the plane to fall through on the low
wing,
then a 90 degree roll in the opposite direction to allow a wing-level
pull-up
at the bottom. I forget the entry speed we used. I have already done a few
of these on my own, no problem so far.
I've never spun any plane; not about to try this one on purpose.. but would
like to hear suggestions for the above maneuvers to make them as clean and
safe as possible, considering I have to be alone when I try them :-)
Bill Boyd
rv-6A 15 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James K. Hurd" <hurd(at)riolink.com> |
| Subject: | Farming Out the Panel |
Would appreciate feedback--on or off-list--regarding first or
second-hand experience with custom panel suppliers. Although my panel
is cut and fitted to my 6A project, I am intrigued with the idea of
sending it off to be transformed into a "turnkey" panel as per my specs.
I passed up the quickbuild and the pre-assembled spar and tanks. But my
self-imposed completion deadline (and electrical phobia) makes a
"panel-in-a-box" look mighty interesting. $50 per hour labor, however
antithetical to homebuilding, may save later trouble-shooting.
Caveats, recommendations, endorsements...I'll take 'em all. Thanks.
Jim 6A canopy in New Mexico
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Hiers <craig-RV4(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: PHX area beta tester needed |
Mlfred(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Listers:
> I need a favor. A local gent has come up with an 'additional cooling' device.
> This device has a sort of chamber that fits around the oil filter housing.
> This chamber is connected to a 2" hose connected to the engine baffle at some
> convenient place. He has seen a 15degF drop in oil temp on his bird. I thought
> of RVers maybe using such a device in the summer, and removing the thing in
> the winter.
>
> So, I'd like a volunteer to try the thing. Any takers? I'd do it, but I have
a
> screen and not a filter.
>
> Check six!
> Mark
>
Mark
I saw the same set up on a Piper a few weeks ago at the local FBO.
I asked the A/P what it was? He said that Piper decided the plane
needed more cooling and that was thier answer.
I kept this little idea in mind, in case I needed it later.
It looked like a good idea, and the installation looked simple.
Good luck
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH
Tallahassee, FL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Farming Out the Panel |
Jim:
Call Martin at Aerotronics. They charge $50/hour, and do absolutely
beautiful work. They are kitbuilders themselves, and are very helpful,
honest, and down to earth. They can pick up wherever you left off. They
have even had frustrated customers put all their partially wound wires and
avionics in a box and ship it to them asking them to "do it right"
their number is:
406-259-5006
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB)Arizona
Panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Farming Out the Panel |
Please post any responses to the list
Brian Eckstein
6A
----------
>
>
> Would appreciate feedback--on or off-list--regarding first or
> second-hand experience with custom panel suppliers. Although my panel
> is cut and fitted to my 6A project, I am intrigued with the idea of
> sending it off to be transformed into a "turnkey" panel as per my specs.
>
July 10, 1998 - July 17, 1998
RV-Archive.digest.vol-fa