RV-Archive.digest.vol-fc

July 23, 1998 - August 04, 1998



________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 23, 1998
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Low-time pilots in RV's
---Tom Craig-Stearman wrote: > > > > > >The largest concern I have in this airplane for new pilots is learning > >how to slow down. You do *not* want to enter the pattern at 160 knots. > > Why not? Do a high-G overhead break and land it like a proper airplane! ;-) > > Tom Craig-Stearman > tcraigst(at)ionet.net > USAF Instructor Pilot > RV-4 64ST connecting all those thingies in the engine room I agree with Tom. On May 3rd, I did a modified overhead approach into POC with an FAA tower controller for POC on board in the right seat. We broke at 170 Kts and rolled out on downwind doing 90 Kts. This was verified in the tower by their radar readout. I would not recommend this for a low time RV pilot. Once you have 50 hours in the airplane you better be able to do it. == Gary A. Sobek RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell So. CA, USA RV6flier(at)yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Fasching" <jfasching(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Low-time pilots in RV's
Date: Jul 23, 1998
You used the term "modified overhead approach" - that's not too standard phraseology in civilian flying; can you explain what manuever you performed? >RV6flier(at)yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 24, 1998
From: Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz>
Subject: Re: Tools in Australia
cmcgough(at)eck.net.au wrote: > > > Todd look up Avery in USA . Tools are heaps cheaper from states, > even after adding freight. You can get Avery (or whoever) to ship your tools to Vans, who will then include them in your kit shipment. That way, you won't even have to pay much freight. Frank. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 23, 1998
From: Tom Craig-Stearman <tcraigst(at)ionet.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Injection Hot Idle, a solution!
Good info, Mark, thanks! You might also try the purge valve that Airflow Performance sells. It allows one to purge the fuel lines with cool fuel from the tanks prior to a hot start, greatly reducing the hot start problems with fuel injected engines. I have it installed on my O-360 with Airflow Performance injection, but haven't yet flown it. A friend installed the purge valve on his IO-360 with Bendix injection, so it seems to be compatible. Tom Craig-Stearman tcraigst(at)ionet.net RV-4 64ST connecting all those thingies in the engine room > > Well I installed some sleeving on my injector lines, and it's made a big >difference on my rough idle while heat soaked problem. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: A20driver(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 23, 1998
Subject: Re: [Fwd: BWB Engine out]
Whats the R.A.H. newsgroup??? Jim Brown-NJ-RV-3 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BSivori(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 23, 1998
Subject: Re: RE: RV-Listers Id. Oshkosh
Guys, I must have missed the sticker bit - who & where do we get them BSivori N929RV ( Reserved ) Monitor 146.52 Closing Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 23, 1998
From: hoffyrv6 <hoffyrv6(at)cinci.infi.net>
Subject: Rooms at Oshkosh
> My solution to the room situation since I never really know if I am going to make it until the last minute is to camp. I have driven in on Saturday > night, Monday morning and many other times. There is always room, it's cheap, no reservations, plenty of stores, showers, etc., walking to the > flightline whenever you want, go back and rest if needed, and it allows you to make last minute decisions on timing. I love it. Lots of friendly > people just like everywhere else as well. I can't make it until Monday morning this year since my girls are going with me and won't be back from college until Sunday. If the listers are still there Monday and Tuesday I'll be there.Curt Hoffman ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 23, 1998
From: John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)seanet.com>
Subject: Re: [Fwd: BWB Engine out]
>> >I am not sure Badwater Bill monitors this list, the message about his >engine out was takem from the R.A.H. news group. Bill was parked next >to me at Arlington with his RV-6 that he bought from John Darby????? >who is on this list. >Do you lurk here BWB? > >-- >Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR >jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com > Bill's not on the RV-List so I forwarded the message to him. John Ammeter ammeterj(at)seanet.com Seattle WA USA 1974 1/2 JH-5 RV-6 (sold 4/14/98) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 23, 1998
From: "joseph.wiza" <joe(at)mcione.com>
unsuscribe ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 23, 1998
From: Martin Shorman <kskids(at)netins.net>
Subject: Re:Propping O-320 (was Electric Flap Option)
scott wrote: > >........ My personal preferance is to keep everything simple. If an > o-320 wasn't so hard to prop, I'd probably leave the electrical system > out!! > Scott Scott: This is something that I have thought about some. How hard is it to prop start the O-320/360? Is there any way to put a compression relief on? Obviously, without the electrical system, you can't have the $25,000 stack of radios for ifr. However, I don't have an extra $25g, or an ifr ticket, so my motivation for going without an electrical system would be: 1. Simplicity 2. Faster build time 3. Saving $$ up front and adding the electrical system and all the electronic goodies at a future date. Comments anyone? martin shorman lawton, ia (made plans for my first visit to Oshkosh today : ) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Low-time pilots in RV's
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS)
Date: Jul 23, 1998
>I agree with Tom. On May 3rd, I did a modified overhead approach into >POC with an FAA tower controller for POC on board in the right seat. >We broke at 170 Kts and rolled out on downwind doing 90 Kts. This was >verified in the tower by their radar readout. > >I would not recommend this for a low time RV pilot. Once you have 50 >hours in the airplane you better be able to do it. > > But I thought the original post was for low time pilots not familiar with RV's? And I agree that pulling G's to disipate airspeed is not something recommended for the new RV pilot, so it is likely that one of the more challenging things with the RV will be staying ahead of the airplane. Scott McDaniels These opinions and ideas are my own and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 23, 1998
From: Martin Shorman <kskids(at)netins.net>
Subject: Re: [Fwd: BWB Engine out]
A20driver(at)aol.com wrote: > > > Whats the R.A.H. newsgroup??? Jim Brown-NJ-RV-3 > There are 18 rec.aviation newsgroups. They are fun, and very lively. Check them out. http://www.lsu.edu/internet/usenet/newspage/rec.aviation.html martin shorman lawton, ia ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WoodardRod(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 23, 1998
Subject: Re:Propping O-320 (was Electric Flap Option)
In a message dated 7/23/98 6:21:04 PM Mountain Daylight Time, kskids(at)netins.net writes: > This is something that I have thought about some. How hard is it to prop > start the O-320/360? Is there any way to put a compression relief on? In my experience, it isn't difficult _at all_ to prop an O-320 (w/high compression pistons). I think what you'd miss the most is just the simple convenience of a starter. Having said that, I think it's all just a matter of what you get used to. I've flown my Champ about 75 hours in the last 5 months and propping it has become a non-issue... just another part of flying. Best regards, Rod Woodard Loveland, Colorado ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 23, 1998
From: rvpilot(at)Juno.com (William R. Davis Jr)
Jim Brown, Saw your message but before I could reply we had a typical Florida power interuption and it wiped out my memory. send me another off list to rvpilot(at)juno.com. Regards, Bill Davis, N66WD ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 23, 1998
Subject: Re: Propping O-320 (was Electric Flap Option)
<35B776E2.6A06(at)netins.net>
From: rvpilot(at)Juno.com (William R. Davis Jr)
Martin, Some people have just put in the starter and a light weight battery such as the 17 A.H. Powersonic and left out the rest of the electrical system. You can get 10-15 starts easy before you have to charge the battery . Recharging the battery occasionally is no big chore. Hand proping can be dangerous and most people nowdays are not confortable with it , especially on a "nose dragger". Regards, Bill, N66WD, RV4 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "baremetl" <baremetl(at)gvtc.com>
Subject: Re:Propping O-320 (was Electric Flap Option)
Date: Jul 23, 1998
-----Original Message----- From: Martin Shorman <kskids(at)netins.net> Date: Thursday, July 23, 1998 6:58 PM Subject: RV-List: Re:Propping O-320 (was Electric Flap Option) > >This is something that I have thought about some. How hard is it to prop >start the O-320/360? Is there any way to put a compression relief on? > >Obviously, without the electrical system, you can't have the $25,000 >stack of radios for ifr. However, I don't have an extra $25g, or an ifr >ticket, so my motivation for going without an electrical system would >be: > >1. Simplicity >2. Faster build time >3. Saving $$ up front and adding the electrical system and all the >electronic goodies at a future date. > > >Comments anyone? > > >martin shorman >lawton, ia > >(made plans for my first visit to Oshkosh today : ) >1. A battery, starter, alternator, some wire, solenoids, ect. is not horribly expensive (you could leave out the other $24Kplus) >2. If you use a wood prop (you implied you weren't looking to spend a lot ) , then your c.g. will be even further aft (not so good when you start loading people and their stuff which moves it further back still ) >3. Propping my 160hp RV-4 is not nearly as fun as my 85hp low compression Champ. Fortunately I haven't had to do more than a few times, but I liked it less each one. In fact, I would call it kind of scary. That next blade seems to come around rather fast when it fires. I like all my body parts. Ivan > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 23, 1998
From: Jeremy William Benedict <jwb(at)europa.com>
Subject: Van's Updated OSH Info
Although it is not another anniversary year, we expect a large turn-out of RVs, including the first builder-completed RV-8s. We plan to bring the RV-6, RV-6A, RV-8A, and the newly painted RV-9. Our booth location has moved slightly south of our previous years location, located on a street corner. We tried to get a parking area set aside for RVs, but have not been promised this type of parking. There will be a new parking area north of where our booth was located last year, and we are hoping they will park RVs in this area. We will be looking for a limited number of volunteers to help with booth tasks, those interested RV builders or pilots check with Bill after we are setup. The banquet will be held at the Pioneer Inn, 1000 Pioneer Dr., Oshkosh (414-233-1980) on Sunday, August 2. Bar opens 6:15pm, dinner will be served 7:30pm. Dinner will be buffet style: Pasta, Caesar Vegetable and Relish Tray Salads, Rice or Potatoes Au Gratin, and Oven Roasted Turkey or Roast Sirloin as an entree. Price will be $17.50 per person. Orders for tickets must be received at Van's office by July 24. Tickets may be picked up at our booth at Oshkosh (preferable), or at the banquet itself. Any tickets not sold by July 24 will be available on a first-come basis at our booth. Demo flights will be available only in the RV-6 and RV-6A; we would appreciate only those who have never had a flight in any RV and are seriously considering building would inquire about demo flights because of a limited number of demo pilots and aircraft this year. Forums: RV-6/6A: Friday July 31, Tent 6, 2:30pm to 3:45pm. RV-3/4/8/8A: Sunday August 2, Tent 6, 11:30am to 12:45pm. (I'm leaving for OSH in 6 minutes, so I will be unable to answer any questions about this e-mail...sorry. jwb) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 24, 1998
From: scott <acepilot(at)mwt.net>
Subject: Re:Propping O-320 (was Electric Flap Option)
Martin Shorman wrote: > > > scott wrote: > > > > >........ My personal preferance is to keep everything simple. If an > > o-320 wasn't so hard to prop, I'd probably leave the electrical system > > out!! > > Scott > > Scott: > > This is something that I have thought about some. How hard is it to prop > start the O-320/360? Is there any way to put a compression relief on? > > Obviously, without the electrical system, you can't have the $25,000 > stack of radios for ifr. However, I don't have an extra $25g, or an ifr > ticket, so my motivation for going without an electrical system would > be: > > 1. Simplicity > 2. Faster build time > 3. Saving $$ up front and adding the electrical system and all the > electronic goodies at a future date. > > Comments anyone? > > martin shorman > lawton, ia > > (made plans for my first visit to Oshkosh today : ) > Yeah, compression relief would be great and nostalgic besides. I'm getting weak in my old age (36 ya know!)...I actually got spoiled when I bought my Chief...no more going out and finding a dead battery...hell, no more going out and finding A battery :) Zero chance of an electrical fire...never have seen a plug wire catch fire yet :) I suppose technically you can prop an O-320...maybe I CAN go without electrics! Scott -- Gotta Fly or Gonna Die ! --Ask me about my Aeronca Super Chief-- amended 8-29-97: Now after feeling the "Need for Speed", building an RV-4! Tail kit arrived!! Somewhat regretfully, the Super Chief is now for sale. $8500 :( ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JDaniel343(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 23, 1998
Subject: Re: RV-Listers - Oshkosh Id. Solution
Count me in too. John L. Danielson JLD AirCraft Tools 13020 Welcome Lane Burnsville, MN 55337 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 23, 1998
Subject: Re: Need address
From: gretz-aero(at)Juno.com (Warren Gretz)
I can only send you my informaion by postal mail so need your address. Warren Gretz, (Gretz Aero) 3664 East Lake Drive Littleton, CO 80121 (303) 770-3811 gretz-aero(at)juno.com writes: > >info > >Roger E. Bocox, [ RBocox(at)Ryko.com ] > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pdsmith(at)pacbell.net
Subject: For Sale: RV4 (flying)
Date: Jul 23, 1998
Posted for a friend: Bob Brooks RV4 for sale in the Olympia, Washington area. O-320 engine. Only 85 hours TT (360) 866-8058 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pdsmith(at)pacbell.net
Subject: RV 8 QB kit for sale
Date: Jul 23, 1998
Posted for a friend. For sale due to medical problem. Complete RV 8 QB kit including empennage and finishing kit. Olympia, Washington (360) 866-8058 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 23, 1998
From: Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Nice RV-4 still for sale...
An earlier RV-4, and with the heavy duty firewall brackets, reinforced flap handle, all those good things. Also include full gyros, GPS, and KX-155 with glideslope. Engine is 160 HP O-320-B3B, set up for constant speed prop. Well maintained, currently receiving new wheel pants and fairings. Realistically priced at $38,000. Near San Jose, CA. Ed Wischmeyer, edwisch(at)pacbell.net, 408 732-9832. I'll be moving to the rain country, and need to either sell the plane (the easier alternative) or (Plan B) put on a metal prop (ie., constant speed, since the firewall cutout is already there). That in turn means a new cowl. If I go with plan B, I'd probably just do a new firewall forward and sell the existing engine, prop, baffling, motor mount, gear, overhauled mags and rebuilt carb, plus the starter and alternator. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 23, 1998
From: Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: 200 HP IO-360-A1A for sale
It's brand new, 8 years old, does not require the oil pump AD. Even the original pallette. Was $21,000, now $20,000. Purchased for an RV-8 project that we've already outgrown and was sold. Will be moving, don't really want to take it with us because it wouldn't be used for some time. I'm near San Jose, CA. Ed Wischmeyer, edwisch(at)pacbell.net. 408 732-9832 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 23, 1998
Subject: Instrument screws
From: fitton(at)Juno.com (Robert D Fitton)
Does anyone know where to buy small mounting instrument screws? These would be black oxide on brass. In particular, I'm looking for 4-40 in several lengths. The smallest I've been able to find are 6-32. ACS current catalog page 90, upper left hand corner, lists brass instrument screws but does not say that they are black. Their order desk confirmed that they are, indeed, black but has none as small as 4-40. Chief Aircraft catalog for 1998, Vol. 7, page 29 list black instrument screws but start at size 6-32 as does Gulf Coast Avionics. No one lists brass stop nuts for these instrument screws. How are the screws secured? Related question: How are Instrument Mounting Nuts or Instrument Clips used? There is a description of them in the ACS catalog on page 85, upper right hand corner. Do the legs extend through the panel AND the instrument or just the panel? What is the difference, if any, between those offered by ACS at around $0.75, Chief at $0.95, and Gulf Coast at $2.00? Are these a suitable substitute for elastic stop nuts? I understand the utility of being able to mount from the front but those of us building RV-4s have easy access to the rear of the panel. Since it appears they come only in size 6-32 what do we use for other size screws like 4-40 (if we can find them) or 8-32? Bob Fitton RV-4 Installing instruments and wiring ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 24, 1998
Subject: Re: Instrument screws
<< Does anyone know where to buy small mounting instrument screws? These would be black oxide on brass. In particular, I'm looking for 4-40 in several lengths. The smallest I've been able to find are 6-32.>> There's a reason for this. Small brass screws are extremely weak. I wouldn't recommend them for mounting anything. I would recommend you use stainless steel pan head or button head screws. Either way, Olander has any type of screw you want (actually only those not otherwise offered by Mustang Ranch). There number is in the Yeller Pages on the net. <> Instrument nut clips <> Neither. Just the instrument. << What is the difference, if any, between those offered by ACS at around $0.75, Chief at $0.95, and Gulf Coast at $2.00? Are these a suitable substitute for elastic stop nuts?>> They are preferable IMO. << I understand the utility of being able to mount from the front but those of us building RV-4s have easy access to the rear of the panel. Since it appears they come only in size 6-32 what do we use for other size screws like 4-40 (if we can find them) or 8-32? >> Nylocs. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MAlexan533(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 24, 1998
Subject: Re: Instrument screws
Why is it necessary to use brass screws, other than when near the compass? If the compass is mounted up on the glareshield, can a person use say, stainless on the rest of the panel? Would like to know the answer to this. Thanks. Von Alexander RV-8 #544 Installing controls ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV4Brown(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 24, 1998
Subject: Re: Aileron help!
Scott, The following might be helpful but your probably already doing this: - Use wooden fixtures to hold the aileron in an accessable riveting position. It takes a little time but well worth effort. - Use two people to do the riveting on this operation. In my opinion, it gives you a fighting chance. - Turn down the air pressure on the gun - 35psi 2x gun - Make sure the riveting die is flush with the skin surface. Use two hands to hold the gun and die. You have to hold that puppy steady! - Be very careful of the position of your bucking bar on the inside. If an edge is against this thin skin when riveting, it will dent it from the inside out. - Make sure your in a comfortable position. If you don't feel you can control the gun, bucking bar, and have a stabalized piece to work on, the results may be disappointing. - Be cognizant of the outward pressure on the skin. Don't press too hard. Learning to control how much pressure to put on the gun and bar is the real key. The exercise below may seem stupid but it helped me. Finally, I recommend practicing riveting a thin piece of aluminum clamped only on one end in a vice. (6" x 6" x .025) When your two person team can drive a satifactory rivet in this configuration without bending the aluminum, you will be prepared for the aileron skins. Good Luck!!! Tom Brown RV4Brown(at)aol.com RV4 on gear, engine hung - lots to do ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 24, 1998
From: Joe Larson <jpl(at)showpg.mn.org.showpg.mn.org>
Subject: Oshkosh from Mpls area
I have a 172 reserved for Monday, August 3 for a flight to Oshkosh. I currently have 2 open seats (with a "maybe" on filling one of them) in this 3-adult airplane. I would like some company. If anyone in the Twin Cities area would like to join me, drop me a note. I'll be leaving early Monday morning and hope to return after the airshow. Of course, T-storm activity will modify these plans for me. -Joe 612-551-1072 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 24, 1998
From: Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com>
Subject: Re: Aileron help!
Scott, You are back riveting the stiffners on, right? Trying to rivet the stiffners on any other way would be a bad idea. Are your dents "innies" or "outies"? Innies are generally caused by laying the skin on a dirty workbench. Outies by dropping a bucking bar. It would be virtually impossible to tap out a dent in .016" skin. If you are talking about very small "innies" cause, by say, laying the skin on a rivet on the bench, I'd think a little dab of body putty before painting would work fine. You can turn an outie into an innie and then body putty. I've had a little luck removing or lessening creases or dents by massaging the dent with the end of a popsicle stick, pressing down, as needed, to smooth the bump. Bob Skinner RV-6 425 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com >Okay, what's the secret to building ailerons with no dents in them? This is >the second aileron skin that I have put a ding in. I'm not even sure how I >did it. What has everyone else done about dings in the aileron skin? LIve >with it? Tap it out? Bondo? Help?!! >Scott VanArtsdalen >RV-4 #1054 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jbabell(at)mediaone.net
Date: Jul 21, 1998
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Re: Using IFR Approach-Certified GPS vice ADF]
Hello Listers, I'm forwarding the following message to all of you as a matter of general interest. Jack Abell Los Angeles RV-6A N333JA (Reserved) Subject: Re: Using IFR Approach-Certified GPS vice ADF Date: From: To: jbabell(at)mediaone.net Hello Jack, I trust this will answer your question! Craig Responding to AOPA request, FAA approves GPS in place of DME/ADF for instrument approaches July 9 _ Responding to a long-standing AOPA initiative, the Federal Aviation Administration has now approved the use of IFR-certified GPS receivers in place of ADF and DME equipment on many instrument approaches. AOPA first asked for this approval in December 1995. "This change can save pilots money because they no longer will need to maintain DME or ADF in the panel," said Doug Helton, AOPA vice president for regulator policy. "An aircraft owner can now replace that aging equipment with an IFR-certified GPS and get greater navigational capability." FAA announced the change in a July 16 Notice to Airmen (NOTAM). The change will also be noted in the next editions of the Airport Facility Directory. FAA will update Advisory Circular 90-94 and the Aeronautical Information Manual (AIM) to provide complete guidance on using GPS, including substituting GPS for DME or ADF information. Under this new approval, information from an IFR-certified GPS receiver can be used in place of DME readouts and/or NDB bearing information in all IFR operations except NDB approaches without a GPS overlay approach. Approved IFR GPS instrument approach operations include: o Locating DME fixes and Locator Outer Markers (LOMs) o Flying DME arcs o Determining NDB cross-bearing fixes o Navigating to/from and holding over NDBs No charting changes are required to use GPS as a DME/ADF replacement. But pilots should be aware that they won't be able to substitute GPS for DME on some approaches until new waypoints are added to the GPS database. "For example, you probably won't find a GPS waypoint for a DME co-located with a localizer, or waypoints for many LOMs, in current receiver databases," said Helton. "Until GPS manufacturers have a chance to add those waypoints to their software, you'll still need to rely on DME." Helton also cautioned that pilots should not use the airport waypoint to determine DME distance. That would give the pilot inaccurate distance information for an instrument approach. "The airport waypoint is located at the center of the field," said Helton. "The DME waypoint is usually co-located with the VOR or the localizer, not at the airport center." AOPA is working with FAA and manufacturers to get DME and LOM waypoints added as soon as possible. AOPA was the pioneer advocate of GPS for civilian aviation beginning back in the 1980s. Its landmark 1990 report to Congress, "The Future is Now," started a policy debate leading to the adoption of the Department of Defense-originated system for civilian air navigation. The Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association represents more than 340,000 pilots who own or fly three-quarters of the nation's 187,000 general aviation aircraft. More than half of the nation's pilots are AOPA members. ______________________________ Reply Separator From: jbabell(at)mediaone.net Date: Tue, Jul 21, 1998 1:21 AM Subject: Using IFR Approach-Certified GPS vice ADF To: Brown, Craig Cc: jbabell Hi Craig, I was wondering whether you have heard any more news lately about a policy statement from the FAA that would allow one to use an IFR approach-certified GPS in lieu of an ADF on approaches. Thanks. Jack Abell ---------- (Netscape Messaging Server 3.01) with ESMTP id AAA22538 Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 15:44:00 -0700 From: "Brown, Craig" <craig.brown(at)aopa.org> Subject: Re: Using IFR Approach-Certified GPS vice ADF Hello Jack, I trust this will answer your question! Craig Responding to AOPA request, FAA approves GPS in place of DME/ADF for instrument approaches July 9 _ Responding to a long-standing AOPA initiative, the Federal Aviation Administration has now approved the use of IFR-certified GPS receivers in place of ADF and DME equipment on many instrument approaches. AOPA first asked for this approval in December 1995. "This change can save pilots money because they no longer will need to maintain DME or ADF in the panel," said Doug Helton, AOPA vice president for regulator policy. "An aircraft owner can now replace that aging equipment with an IFR-certified GPS and get greater navigational capability." FAA announced the change in a July 16 Notice to Airmen (NOTAM). The change will also be noted in the next editions of the Airport Facility Directory. FAA will update Advisory Circular 90-94 and the Aeronautical Information Manual (AIM) to provide complete guidance on using GPS, including substituting GPS for DME or ADF information. Under this new approval, information from an IFR-certified GPS receiver can be used in place of DME readouts and/or NDB bearing information in all IFR operations except NDB approaches without a GPS overlay approach. Approved IFR GPS instrument approach operations include: ?Locating DME fixes and Locator Outer Markers (LOMs) ?Flying DME arcs ?Determining NDB cross-bearing fixes ?Navigating to/from and holding over NDBs No charting changes are required to use GPS as a DME/ADF replacement. But pilots should be aware that they won't be able to substitute GPS for DME on some approaches until new waypoints are added to the GPS database. "For example, you probably won't find a GPS waypoint for a DME co-located with a localizer, or waypoints for many LOMs, in current receiver databases," said Helton. "Until GPS manufacturers have a chance to add those waypoints to their software, you'll still need to rely on DME." Helton also cautioned that pilots should not use the airport waypoint to determine DME distance. That would give the pilot inaccurate distance information for an instrument approach. "The airport waypoint is located at the center of the field," said Helton. "The DME waypoint is usually co-located with the VOR or the localizer, not at the airport center." AOPA is working with FAA and manufacturers to get DME and LOM waypoints added as soon as possible. AOPA was the pioneer advocate of GPS for civilian aviation beginning back in the 1980s. Its landmark 1990 report to Congress, "The Future is Now," started a policy debate leading to the adoption of the Department of Defense-originated system for civilian air navigation. The Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association represents more than 340,000 pilots who own or fly three-quarters of the nation's 187,000 general aviation aircraft. More than half of the nation's pilots are AOPA members. ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Using IFR Approach-Certified GPS vice ADF Author: jbabell(at)mediaone.net at -FABRIK/Internet Date: 07/21/98 01:21 From: jbabell(at)mediaone.net Date: Tue, Jul 21, 1998 1:21 AM Subject: Using IFR Approach-Certified GPS vice ADF To: Brown, Craig Cc: jbabell Hi Craig, I was wondering whether you have heard any more news lately about a policy statement from the FAA that would allow one to use an IFR approach-certified GPS in lieu of an ADF on approaches. Thanks. Jack Abell ---------- Received: from chmls03.mediaone.net by prague.fabrik.com with SMTP (Fabrik F07.3-000) Received: from jackabell.we.mediaone.net ([24.130.9.138]) by we.mediaone.net (Netscape Messaging Server 3.01) with SMTP id Message-ID: <35B44F6D.59B8(at)mediaone.net> Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.0 (Win95; U) MIME-Version: 1.0 To: craig.brown(at)aopa.org CC: jbabell(at)mediaone.net ---------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.hsd.utc.com>
Subject: Banquet
Date: Jul 24, 1998
Listers, How many of you going to Oshkosh are planning to go to the banquet? Fred Stucklen ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 24, 1998
From: "Bill Costello" <bcostello(at)mbsi.net>
Subject: Re: Banquet
Re going to banquet, my wife and I will probably go Bill and Sis Costello ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Jul 24, 1998
Subject: Van's conduit in engine compartment?
Listers, The 5/8" "Nylon Wiring Conduit" that Van's sells is listed in the catalog as "Suitable for engine compartment, but maintain 4"-6" from exhaust system." I'm considering using this conduit from the vacuume pump to the regulator and/or from the crankcase vent on the back of the engine to the air/oil separator. I just don't know if the conduit can really take the heat. I tested a sample and found that it melts in an oven set to 350 degrees (F). (I didn't determine the exact melting point, I just know that by 350 degrees the tube melted.) Any experiences to share? This stuff is sure lighter than the MIL-H-6000 I bought to plumb vacuume in the engine compartment, but I'd hate to have the conduit melt on me. Thanks, Tim _+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_ Tim Lewis N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 on gear, engine mounted Springfield VA http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a timrv6a(at)iname.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BSivori(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 24, 1998
Subject: Re: Banquet
Fred, I have never been to the Banquet, is it worth going, is it the RV Banquet or the Oshkosh Banquet. We will be 5 I think - Let me know Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PANNAIR(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 24, 1998
Subject: Re: Instrument screws
Stainless works fine! I use stainless!!! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 24, 1998
From: "Flying Phil's Circus" <sisson(at)ctnet.net>
Subject: Re: compass fluid
They used to say fill them with kerosene. It won't really make much difference as long as it is clear, thin, and not a disolving type of solvent that will attack the gasket. Phil Michael W Calhoon wrote: > > In A&P school we were taught that the correct fluid for compasses is > "triple refined Stoddard Solvent." No mention of approved > substitutes. > However, if stuck somewhere with an empty compass I would probably > fill > it with the same stuff I put in the gear reservoir in flight! ;^} > > Mike Calhoon > RV6 #22991 Rt. Wing > Anchorage, AK > calhoonM(at)aol.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Nicholas Knobil <nknobil(at)gwi.net>
Subject: Re:Propping O-320 (was Electric Flap Option)
Date: Jul 24, 1998
Hand propping an O-320 (with the hi-comp pistons) is not a problem. The problem is if the plane (with the O-320) has tricycle gear (an -A vs a " "). Propping a tail-dragger provides you with a prop that swings in an arc tilted slightly away from the vulnerable arm and neck bones. The angle of the dangle of the fan on a nose-wheel aircraft places your noggin much closer to the prop blades when you pull them through. In other words, I'd simply let you prop your RV8-A and I'd happily prop my RV-8. Nick Knobil Bowdoinham, Maine RV8 80549 Wing Working My other plane is a Super Chief ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Van's conduit in engine compartment?
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS)
Date: Jul 24, 1998
> >The 5/8" "Nylon Wiring Conduit" that Van's sells is listed in the >catalog as >"Suitable for engine compartment, but maintain 4"-6" from exhaust >system." >I'm considering using this conduit from the vacuume pump to the >regulator >and/or from the crankcase vent on the back of the engine to the >air/oil >separator. I just don't know if the conduit can really take the heat. > I tested a >sample and found that it melts in an oven set to 350 degrees (F). (I >didn't >determine the exact melting point, I just know that by 350 degrees the >tube >melted.) > >Any experiences to share? This stuff is sure lighter than the >MIL-H-6000 I >bought to plumb vacuume in the engine compartment, but I'd hate to >have the >conduit melt on me. > >Thanks, > >Tim > Tim, This is wiring conduit, not vacuum hose. I believe if you used it as a vacuum hose it would probably collapse. Scott McDaniels These opinions and ideas are my own and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 24, 1998
From: Charlie <kearns(at)gte.net>
Subject: IO360 For Sale
I aplogize for having to broadcast this to the entire list but I am interested in the IO360-AIA that was posted earlier today and I trashed the message by mistake. If the engine is still available would you please respond directly to "kearns(at)gte.net" Thanks ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 24, 1998
From: "Michael L. Weller" <midibu(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re:Propping O-320 (was Electric Flap Option)
<35B7843D.F8(at)mwt.net> > >scott wrote: >> > >>........ My personal preferance is to keep everything simple. If an >> o-320 wasn't so hard to prop, I'd probably leave the electrical system >> out!! >> Scott Hello group, This might get lost this week because everybody but me is going to OSH. I'm thinking about all of the airplanes I've propped. C-65, C-75, C-85. C-90, C-200, O-320, O-360, IO-360, IO-520, TSIO-520, Kinner 220, PW-985, O-540, Morris Motors Oxford (same crummy engine that you will find in an MGA, but this one had a crank in the front). I have to tell you that I started all of them by propping. The only one that I would NEVER do again is the IO-360-A1A (or any other 360). It worked the first time, but in the next three instances, I gave up. I even gave the passengers instructions on how to prop the dang thing while I worked the "shower of sparks" and all. The starter solenoid had failed, it was not a battery problem, and we really wanted to get out of Houston. The mechanic looked at us kind of funny when we said we were headed to Huntsville. We were going Huntsville, Alabama. The state prison for Texas is in Huntsville, Texas. The O-320 is not hard to prop. Just don't think about doing it with a 360. Just my $0.02 in. Mike Mike Weller midibu(at)mindspring.com (preferred) or michael.l.weller(at)lmco.com RV-8 (under construction) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV4WGH(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 24, 1998
Subject: Re: Banquet
I plan to attend. Wally Hunt Rockford, IL RV-4 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 24, 1998
Subject: Re: Instrument screws
From: fitton(at)Juno.com (Robert D Fitton)
> ><< Does anyone know where to buy small mounting instrument screws? >These > would be black oxide on brass. In particular, I'm looking for 4-40 >in > several lengths. The smallest I've been able to find are 6-32.>> > >There's a reason for this. Small brass screws are extremely weak. I >wouldn't >recommend them for mounting anything. I would recommend you use >stainless >steel pan head or button head screws. Not to sound like I'm arguing, but I've been told by a number of people that non-magnetic brass must be used in the instrument panel. In the ACS catalog, upper left-hand corner of page 90, it states "Use brass screws for all panel installations to eliminate magnetic interference". I'd prefer to use the stronger, less expensive non-brass screws but why stainless? If I were to use one or the other, I'd dob black paint on the head since my panel will be black. Thanks to the folks who have responded. I appreciate it and need all the help I can get. Bob RV-4 Installing instruments and wiring. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 24, 1998
Subject: Re: Banquet
From: tcastella(at)Juno.com (Anthony J Castellano)
Hi Fred: I will be leaving Sunday morning to return home. Otherwise I would go. I wish Van would have the banquet a day or two earlier since the start date has been changed to Wed. Hope to see you at Oshkosh. Regards, Tony Castellano tcastella(at)juno.com Hopewell Junction, NY RV-6 (fuselage on the gear) writes: > > >Listers, > > How many of you going to Oshkosh are planning to go to the banquet? > >Fred Stucklen > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 24, 1998
From: Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com>
Subject: LAST CALL for Vans RV Banquet
Dear Gang, Based on the time deadlines Jeremy Benedict posted, I am giving a last call to those of you who would like to go the Van's RV banquet at Oshkosh on Sunday, August 2nd. So far, I have about 25 people who have e-mailed me asking me to reserve a place for them at the Matronics RV-list table. I am compiling this list and will forward the info to Van's office, so that tickets are held at Van's tent at the Show. If anyone else wants to attend and be seated at the Matronics table, please let me know by this Sunday, July 26. I will post an e-mail to the list on Monday the 27th listing all of you who have responded to me. I will set up some sort of eye-catching sign in the Banquet room at the Pioneer Inn so that everyone can find our table. There will be name tags on the table for you to pick up and wear if you so desire. Perhaps these name tags can be picked up prior to dinner so that we can wear them outside on the lawn. Once inside for dinner, seat yourself as you please at the Matronics table (or at some other table, if you so desire). Oh, oh... I'm starting to get those vibrations that I get every year at this time. Seeya at 'Kosh. Louis Louis I. Willig larywil(at)home.com (610) 668-4964 Philadelphia, PA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 24, 1998
Subject: Re: Van's conduit in engine compartment?
<< The 5/8" "Nylon Wiring Conduit" that Van's sells is listed in the catalog as "Suitable for engine compartment, but maintain 4"-6" from exhaust system." I'm considering using this conduit from the vacuume pump to the regulator and/or from the crankcase vent on the back of the engine to the air/oil separator.>> Tim- Van's sells this light hose primarily for directing cooling air from the baffles to the gascolator, fuel pump, mags, alternator, etc. I wouldn't try to use this light hose for vacuum pump (would likely collapse from the vacuum) or crankcase breather to separator (high heat output). << I just don't know if the conduit can really take the heat. I tested a sample and found that it melts in an oven set to 350 degrees (F). (I didn't determine the exact melting point, I just know that by 350 degrees the tube melted.) Any experiences to share? >> Motorcraft (Ford) makes a great 5/8" ID blue silicone hose. Your Ford dealer that works on the local cop cars can special order it. It is used for their water coolant lines. It is semi-light, has good wall strength, is flexible and will last forever. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 24, 1998
From: chester razer <razer(at)midwest.net>
Subject: Re: Van's conduit in engine compartment?
Tim, I used the same stuff to vent my fuel pump, gascolator, and both mags, it holds up fine. I also used a short piece to vent my alternator, no problems. Just keep it away from the exhause headers and cylinder heads. Also, I installed an engine compartment temp probe, its the extra temp probe that should be used for outside air temp with a RMI Micro Monitor. The probe is forward of the firewall and aft of the engine baffling slightly left of center and very close to the left mag. The hottest temp it has ever indicated was 57 degrees C with an outside air temp of about 30 degrees C. Go ahead and use the stuff for blast lines, its cheap and easy to install and its also very light. chet Tim Lewis wrote: > > Listers, > > The 5/8" "Nylon Wiring Conduit" that Van's sells is listed in the catalog as > "Suitable for engine compartment, but maintain 4"-6" from exhaust system." > I'm considering using this conduit from the vacuume pump to the regulator > and/or from the crankcase vent on the back of the engine to the air/oil > separator. I just don't know if the conduit can really take the heat. I tested a > sample and found that it melts in an oven set to 350 degrees (F). (I didn't > determine the exact melting point, I just know that by 350 degrees the tube > melted.) > > Any experiences to share? This stuff is sure lighter than the MIL-H-6000 I > bought to plumb vacuume in the engine compartment, but I'd hate to have the > conduit melt on me. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com
Date: Jul 25, 1998
Subject: Instrument screws
If you use austinitic stainless you could use these on the compass as well. P.S. If a magnet will pick them up or pull them they aren't austinitic and will affect your compass. A lot of stainless screws are ferritic and fail this test. Other alternatives include monel and a number of other nickel alloys. If your panel gets wet and you haven't greased the screws before installation they will be almost impossible to remove due to intermetallic corrosion. ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Re: RV-List: Instrument screws Date: 24-07-98 09:41 Why is it necessary to use brass screws, other than when near the compass? If the compass is mounted up on the glareshield, can a person use say, stainless on the rest of the panel? Would like to know the answer to this. Thanks. Von Alexander RV-8 #544 Installing controls ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 25, 1998
From: Giulio Tonion <tonion(at)iig.com.au>
Subject: subscribe
I would like to subscribe to the re-list. My new Email address is tonion(at)iig.com.au Regards Julio ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 25, 1998
From: jim jewell <jjewell(at)okanagan.net>
Subject: Re: subscribe
> >I would like to subscribe Hello Julio: To subscribe to the RV list you should go to http://www. matronics.com If you scroll down the on the page you will find a heading: THE RV-LIST in blue letters and underlined, click on the RV-LIST heading and read the instructions. Welcome aboard Julio. should you need to unsubscribe send an e-mail to: rv-list-request@matronics in the body of the e-mail only put the one word unsubscribe and nothing else at all. no other text and no subject. When dreams come true the sky is the limit. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 25, 1998
From: "Flying Phil's Circus" <sisson(at)ctnet.net>
Subject: Re:Propping O-320 (was Electric Flap Option)
<35B7843D.F8(at)mwt.net> <3.0.1.32.19980724183904.0092e630(at)pop.mindspring.com> I've been hand propping fuel injected 0360 for 17 years in Pitts. It is starting to get old. You have to look at it like this. People go to the health Spa and spend $30 per month to get their circulation going. With an 0360 this cost to raise circulation is free. In reality the 0360 requires some technique that must be learned by doing it. Hot starts are more of a challenge, especially when you see people with starters who have problems getting them to fire off. We usually do hot starts as follows: (two men required and sometimes third man is needed to replace second man) man in seat goes to switch off, full lean, wide open throttle, and brakes. Man at prop turns blades backwards 20 blades. Then man at prop calls for switch on. All other controls left as they were. wide open throttle, full lean, and brakes. It should start in 3 or 4 blades, and at that time the man in plane must quickly go to rich and throttle back to idle. This is why a hand start with one person and a hot fuel injected engine can't be done. Hot start on carbureted engines is not a problem because you can start at idle after you clear out some of the fuel if you have a loaded engine. Have been told by certain people not to turn engine backward. They say the starter doesn't turn backwards. Probably not neccessary, but just an old habit that was taught years ago for clearing out loaded engines. Like I said, it is starting to get old. I'm thinking about a B&C lightweight to solve these problems. But I must do some extensive mods in the engine compartment to accomplish this. I wouldn't think about having to hand prop an RV. My 6 is going to have a starter even if I can't afford seat cushions. If I ever have to prop it with someone at the controls, I can. But if I don't have to, I'm not. This is a nickels worth..... Phil at Litchfield, IL Pitts N1GB RV6 wings started, tail mostly done, flaps done, ailerons done, fuselage bulkheads all done. more than one builder working on it helps a lot. Michael L. Weller wrote: > > > > > >scott wrote: > >> > > > >>........ My personal preferance is to keep everything simple. If > an > >> o-320 wasn't so hard to prop, I'd probably leave the electrical > system > >> out!! > >> Scott > > Hello group, > > This might get lost this week because everybody but me is going to > OSH. > > I'm thinking about all of the airplanes I've propped. > > C-65, C-75, C-85. C-90, C-200, O-320, O-360, IO-360, IO-520, TSIO-520, > > Kinner 220, PW-985, O-540, Morris Motors Oxford (same crummy engine > that > you will find in an MGA, but this one had a crank in the front). > > I have to tell you that I started all of them by propping. The only > one > that I would NEVER do again is the IO-360-A1A (or any other 360). It > worked the first time, but in the next three instances, I gave up. I > even > gave the passengers instructions on how to prop the dang thing while I > > worked the "shower of sparks" and all. The starter solenoid had > failed, it > was not a battery problem, and we really wanted to get out of > Houston. The > mechanic looked at us kind of funny when we said we were headed to > Huntsville. We were going Huntsville, Alabama. The state prison for > Texas > is in Huntsville, Texas. > > The O-320 is not hard to prop. Just don't think about doing it with a > 360. > > Just my $0.02 in. > > Mike > > Mike Weller > midibu(at)mindspring.com (preferred) or michael.l.weller(at)lmco.com > RV-8 (under construction) > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jkkennedy(at)ktis.net (John Keith Kennedy)
Subject: poh
Date: Jul 25, 1998
While surfing, I came across a copy of a Pilot's Operating Handbook for a RV-6A. I forgot and didn't save the site. What I am really looking for is a POH for a -6. Is there anyone who might have one available? Thanks for any info. Jack ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Instrument screws
Date: Jul 25, 1998
Wicks Aircraft Supply (800-221-9425) stocks several lengths of the 4-40 brass, black oxide coated machine screws in both flat head and pan head as well as 4-40 brass stop nuts. Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA > >Does anyone know where to buy small mounting instrument screws? These >would be black oxide on brass. In particular, I'm looking for 4-40 in >several lengths. >No one lists brass stop nuts for these instrument screws. >like 4-40 (if we can find them) or 8-32? > >Bob Fitton >RV-4 Installing instruments and wiring ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MAlexan533(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 25, 1998
Subject: Recommend Adhesive?
Listers; I would like to know what is the best type of adhesive to use for gluing the thin carpet covering onto the glareshield, sidewalls, baggage compartments, etc. I know some have used the spray- on type contact cement, but when it gets hot, it tends to soften and come loose. Also, a source to purchase that very thin, light carpet would be appreciated. Von Alexander RV-8 #544 Installing front baggage panels(nutplates, nutplates!) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WoodardRod(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 25, 1998
Subject: XPonder for Sale
Hello listers! The big moving event sale continues at the Woodard household... I've got a used transponder for sale. It came out of my Cherokee 140 back in the summer of 1994. It was working fine at the time, I was just getting a new radio stack and the old-style faceplate didn't fit in with my new digital radios. The brand name isn't listed on the faceplate, but the following does appear: 400 XPDR (upper right corner) RT-459A (lower right corner) This is the style with the analog numbers where you move each digit with a little lever. I was regularly flying through the Denver TCA (that's Class B for the new folks!) just before the transponder was removed. There's a Yellow Tag on the unit from when I had it cleaned and adjusted in 1993 or 1994. I have no idea what this is worth, but I'll take the best offer within the next week. The deal is that within a month of receipt the buyer can take the radio to the shop of his/her choice... If the Xponder doesn't check out, you can send it back to me and I'll give you your money back. Sound fair enough? Rod (everything's for sale) Woodard Loveland, Colorado ________________________________________________________________________________
From: QmaxLLC(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 25, 1998
Subject: Re: No-timers in RV's
No need to 'fess up about being a no-timer. I started my 6 after taking a ride in a 4, 6 and 6A and before taking any lessons. I've got maybe a year to go building and just passed my 40 hours in a Citabria and still haven't soloed. No, I'm not that incompetent, I'm having trouble with the medical. FAA doesn't like the medication I take. But I'm working on getting a Special Circumstances ticket. I figure that I'll just keep getting better at dual until the FAA relents. Haven't heard much from low-timers with tail-dragger time. I've got 1 hour in a nose-dragger. The rest is in the Citabria and a Stearman. Any advice to a low-timer with that sort of experience. More accurately, I'd like to hear comparisons. I'll definately got to Van's for a checkout but I'd like to hear how my experience will translate into flying the 6. Bob Fritz ________________________________________________________________________________
From: QmaxLLC(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 25, 1998
Subject: Re: Electric Flap Option
Just finished installing the electric flaps on my QB6. S'easy, especially if you are starting with the non-QB kit. I made few goofs and would do it differently now but nothing unsightly or unsafe occurred that I couldn't recover from. (Sort of like taking flying lessons except you can turn off the lights and walk out if it's not going right) Do I like flying it? Dunno....ask me in about a year. Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 25, 1998
From: Lindsey Beaulne <edavid(at)flash.lakeheadu.ca>
Subject: RV 6
Dear RV listers, I was wondering if someone could be so kind and inform me on the dimensions of the RV 6 firewall, and the dimensions for the engine mount bolts. This would be really appreciated! Thanks, Lindsey Beaulne Please reply to edavid(at)flash.lakeheadu.ca ________________________________________________________________________________
From: mikel(at)dimensional.com
Date: Jul 25, 1998
Subject: Re: Infinity Stick Grips
>Has anyone used the military style Infinity grips? It seems that these >should provide any switches or controls needed.... Have one. REALLY like it. Quite comfortable and functional. And looks cool. Michael RV-4 N232 Suzie Q OSH bound when the weather clears...... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: mikel(at)dimensional.com
Date: Jul 25, 1998
Subject: Re: exhaust(vetterman vs spruce)
>The Vetterman crossover system w/heat muffs will run me 711.00 and >the rv crossover from spruce for an 0360 w/heat muffs will run 580.00. Can >anyone tell me the difference. Vetterman's exhaust system is better. That's the main difference. Michael ________________________________________________________________________________
From: QmaxLLC(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 25, 1998
Subject: Re: Low-time pilots in RV's
<< >The largest concern I have in this airplane for new pilots is learning >how to slow down. You do *not* want to enter the pattern at 160 knots. Why not? Do a high-G overhead break and land it like a proper airplane! ;-) >> ------------- A proper airplane?!?!? You mean the Air Farce is still flying taildraggers? And what the heck is a high-G overhead break. Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 25, 1998
Subject: RV-6/6A Fuse Jig For Sale
From: rvsixer(at)Juno.com (michael d hilger)
Listers, I have an RV-6/6A fuselage jig for sale. Pretty much to Van's plans, all wood, with adjustable feet per Frank Justice advice. First $75 takes it. It is at the So. St. Paul (MN) airport. E-mail me off list if you are interested. Mike Hilger RV-6 rvsixer(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Jul 25, 1998
Subject: KB-090-T Torque (mechanical fuel pump fitting)
I purchased the KB-090-T fitting (the one that goes on the output of the mechanical fuel pressure pump, and is tapped for fuel pressure gauge fitting) from Van's. The fitting has a nut that compresses a rubber gasket against the mechanical fuel pump. How much torque do I use on that nut? How much torque do I use when screwing the entire unit into the pump? My initial inclination is to tighten the entire unit until it gets quite hard to turn, then back off to the appropriate orientation (outlet pointed down). Then it seems to me I should tighten the gasket nut pretty tight to prevent the whole unit from turning. Correct? How tight should that nut be tightened? Thanks, Tim _+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_ Tim Lewis N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 on gear, engine mounted Springfield VA http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a timrv6a(at)iname.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVGEM(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 25, 1998
Subject: Re: Low-time No-timers in RV's
Hi there, I can I dentify with you on this one ! I started building my RV6a in May/June of '92 and my flight training in October. Currently the aircraft is at the taxying stage, whilst I am post solo going onto cross-sountry. In between times, some very understanding and trusting freinds in the Houston area, one very slim one with a maroon 6a, have allowed me to build up about 8 hours in total over the same time frame. I would support the comments re always learning but at the same time, would not consider the RV when handled with respect, to be anything to be afraid of. I love every second of it. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVGEM(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 25, 1998
Subject: Re: Infinity Stick Grips
Hi there, I have been considering them for some time. What function layout did you use on the switching side. Cheers, Hoping to be founder of Vans Tartan Air Force John Wheeler RV6a on the taxyway. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Recommend Adhesive?
From: lewy2(at)Juno.com (James I Lewis)
Date: Jul 25, 1998
> Also, a >source to >purchase that very thin, light carpet would be appreciated. > >Von Alexander >RV-8 #544 >Installing front baggage panels(nutplates, nutplates!) > > > > Von, I'm using that light weight automotive carpet sold at PepBoys and many other parts stores. I don't think you can get it any lighter. 3M Brand spray contact adheasive works for me. Jim Tailwind W-8 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Maple Prop 68X76 F/sale Trade
From: lewy2(at)Juno.com (James I Lewis)
Date: Jul 25, 1998
Hello RV listers, I have a prop that someone with a 160 HP Lycoming may need. It is too much for my 150HP and is very nice low time (25 hours on a Glasair I converted to CS) It is a Colin Walker hard maple 5 lam with leading edge protection and has a standard Lycoming SAE 2 hub 3.75 inch thick. Its a 68 in. long and a 76 in. pitch. (68X76) I will also trade it for a 68X72 or a 68X70 prop of the same maker or equivalent type such as Sterba. Prefer a 68X72 or will take $450.plus shipping. Located Sacramento, Ca. e-mail lewy2(at)juno.com or call 916-922-3197 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Infinity Stick Grips
Date: Jul 25, 1998
I guess they're not for everyone. I don't have really large hands, so I felt that it was uncomfortably big and the hat switch was extremely ackward to reach and hard to operate with my thumb. The feel and construction reminded me of an arcade game stick. I also tried one of Glasair's military style grips and didn't like the hat switch location on that one either. Only cost me restocking and shipping charges of $43.46 (15%) on Stoddard-Hamilton grip return and $32.40 (20%!) on Infinity Aerospace grip return (of course he didn't mention this when I asked about return policy before I ordered it). If you can, you might want to try it before you order it! Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma,WA Subject: Re: RV-List: Infinity Stick Grips >>Has anyone used the military style Infinity grips? It seems that these >>should provide any switches or controls needed.... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: mikel(at)dimensional.com
Date: Jul 25, 1998
Subject: Re: Infinity Stick Grips
Infinity Stick Grips: >What function layout did you use on the switching side. I have manual flaps and trim so they are not switched. I have: Trigger: 50 cal. machine gun.....I mean the trigger is push-to-talk. Red: landing light; Green: taxi light (both via relay) China hat: up: ident (transponder); left: flip-flop channels on com radio; right: change channels on the standby side of the com.; down: nothing. Blue and Black are rocket and bomb release at this point. I was out flying today and realized I hardly ever touch a radio knob. It is all at my fingertips. I also have fuel pump, carb heat and oil cooler gate, trim right next to the throttle (left) hand. Not much hand movement needed. I have, however, made it a rule to not look down in the cockpit more than 5 seconds. Cover too much ground in too short a time. Saw a Bonanza this morning on a convergent course and had to deviate to avoid. Pretty sure he didn't see me. Lots of visibility but you have to use it. Glad I was watching. Michael RV-4 N232 Suzie Q OSH tomorrow, if Thor allows it......... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: mikel(at)dimensional.com
Date: Jul 25, 1998
Subject: Re: The Big O
If the weather ever clears between here and there, I will go to OSH. I will wear the little sticker for listers and, hopefully, will get to meet some of the folks we talk to every day. Met two today at the pumps. I will be parked it the Antique/Classic area as that is where I work, in charge of parking some of the thousand of airplanes that come in. Suzie Q is still in pr*m*r and has a pseudo-military look about her, just for fun. Looking forward to being at The Mecca. Come on, Thor, let up just a little, eh? Micheal RV-4 N232 Suzie Q Ready................... ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Delivery Error Notification.
From: Mailer-Daemon(at)lrbcg.com
Date: Jul 25, 1998
You sent a message which could not be delivered. The error message is: Too many retries Here are the first 20 lines of the original message you sent. SMF-70 From: MBBS@BBS {MBBS: rv-list(at)matronics.com} Subject: RV-List: RV Yeller Pages... Date: Sat, 25 Jul 1998 11:30:01 -0700 (PDT) From: "RV-List Tip of the Day" <rv-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: RV-List: RV Yeller Pages... **** Automated RV-List Usage Tip of the Day **** --> Looking for a supplier's address/phone number or website? Before you ask the List, look it up in the "RV Builders' Yeller Pages", at: http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm * Automated Notice Sent by MajorTCP/IP on LRBCG.COM* ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Delivery Error Notification.
From: Mailer-Daemon(at)lrbcg.com
Date: Jul 25, 1998
You sent a message which could not be delivered. The error message is: Too many retries Here are the first 20 lines of the original message you sent. SMF-70 From: MBBS@BBS {MBBS: rv-list(at)matronics.com} Subject: RV-List: KB-090-T Torque (mechanical fuel pump fit From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> Date: Sat, 25 Jul 1998 15:00:37 -0400 Subject: RV-List: KB-090-T Torque (mechanical fuel pump fitting) I purchased the KB-090-T fitting (the one that goes on the output of the mechanical fuel pressure pump, and is tapped for fuel pressure gauge fitting) from Van's. The fitting has a nut that compresses a rubber gasket against the mechanical fuel pump. How much torque do I use on that nut? How much torque do I use when screwing the entire unit into the pump? My initial inclination is to tighten the entire unit until it gets quite hard to turn, then back off to the appropriate orientation (outlet pointed down). Then it seems to me I should tighten the gasket nut pretty tight to prevent the whole unit from turning. Correct? How tight should that nut be tightened? Thanks, Tim _+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_ Tim Lewis N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 on gear, engine mounted Springfield VA http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a timrv6a(at)iname.com * Automated Notice Sent by MajorTCP/IP on LRBCG.COM* ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 25, 1998
From: wntzl(at)execpc.com (David M Wentzell)
Subject: RV Listers - Oshkosh ID Sticker & Name Tag
Greetings to all, FYI - ID stickers, and also small name tag stickers have been completed and sent to Van's pick up address in Oshkosh. Get yours at the booth (or tent). Bill Benedict is the contact person in case the person you might ask doesn't know about them. Regards, David Wentzell RV6 - Wings - Racine, WI ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 25, 1998
Subject: Re: KB-090-T Torque (mechanical fuel pump fitting)
the oring seals the fitting! You dont want tighten the fitting! The jamnut keeps the fitting from rotating! Lube the oring! Rver273sb ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 25, 1998
Subject: Re: Van's conduit in engine compartment?
Guys, While using these sort of things in the engine compartment, remember it is standard practice not to install any material that ignites easily or puts off noxious or toxic fumes when burned! Rver273sb ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 25, 1998
From: Mark Nielsen <Mark.Nielsen@fiedler-lp.com>
Subject: Re: Recommend Adhesive?
> >Listers; I would like to know what is the best type of adhesive to use for >gluing the thin carpet covering onto the glareshield, sidewalls, baggage >compartments, etc. I know some have used the spray- on type contact cement, >but when it gets hot, it tends to soften and come loose. Also, a source to >purchase that very thin, light carpet would be appreciated. > Von: I used upholstery fabric (left over from the seats) to cover the side walls. I attached it with a headliner adhesive; this is available at auto parts stores. I have had no problems in 15 months of service. I didn't cover the sidewall stiffeners, bulkheads or struts, only the skin itself. The stiffeners were left with a painted finish. The upholstery fabric that I used does not unravel at a cut edge, so I just needed to cut it to size and glue it on. No hems were necessary. I was very pleased with the result. The fabric really adds a finished look to the interior, yet it is light weight, relatively inexpensive, and easy to install. The fabric also adds some sound and temperature insulation. Patterns were very easy to make. I taped an oversized piece of newsprint to the skin so that it was aligned along one edge. I then ran my fingernail along the other edges so that it made a crease in the newsprint. Cut along the creases and your pattern is done. The whole job took me less than two hours. Mark RV-6; flying, 250 hrs. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 25, 1998
From: Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com>
Subject: Re: poh
Jack, My site has a POH for a -6A. The only difference with the preflight of a 6 vs. a 6A is changing the statement of nose wheel tire to tail wheel tire in the checklist. RV's are not spam cans. There is no checklist that will be applicable to all RV's. Any checklist that is published must be modified to suit your particular airplane. Hope this helps. Scott Gesele N506RV www.villagenet.com/~scottg > >While surfing, I came across a copy of a Pilot's Operating Handbook for a >RV-6A. I forgot and didn't save the site. What I am really looking for is >a POH for a -6. Is there anyone who might have one available? >Thanks for any info. > >Jack > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________ Delivered-To: fixup-rv-list(at)matronics.com@fixme
Date: Jul 25, 1998
From: Ron Caldwell <rlcaldwell(at)uswest.net>
Subject: First Flight Of N655RV
This morning, after 2 years and 5 months of construction, I flew my new RV-6A for the first time. It was a tremendous experience to be at the controls and flying something that I had built with my own two hands. Yes, it was very hard work, but well worth the time, sweat, and blood put into it. After receiving some flight instruction from Jerry VanGrunsven on Thursday at Van's Aircraft, I felt real good about doing my own maiden flight. Jerry (who is Van's brother) is a excellent instructor. He recently retired after flying for Northwest Airlines. Jerry is now co-instructing with Mike Seeger. Mike was not available as he had already taken off for Oshkosh and some instruction sessions planned along the way. My 6A is located at Salt Lake City Airport #2. We now have three 6A's flying at this airport. It was very cloudy with light rains showers this morning, but we had calm winds and the air was very smooth and stable. My 6A has a O-320 160 hp engine with a Sensenich metal prop. It's hard to know for sure, but I may need to get my prop re-pitched later on. At straight and level fight (at 7,000 ft), my highest rpms were 2230. My static ground runup rpms was also 2200 rpms. I'm flying mainly out of high elevation airports so a pitch adjustment may be necessary to improve my cruise speeds.. The airplane flew flawlessly. I didn't see or feel any wing heaviness or need for any trim tabs. I would like to thank everyone on the list who has helped me with questions or problems. You've been super and I appreciate your help in making this major milestone occur in my life. It will now be great fun to complete the remaining 24.5 hours of required test flying. Hope to see you at a fly-in in the future. Sincerely Ron Caldwell rlcaldwell(at)uswest.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DAVENDANA1(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 25, 1998
Subject: Re: XPonder for Sale
The unit is Cessna ARC unit. Just for your info ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 25, 1998
From: Smith <kpsmith(at)ais.net>
Subject: Instrument screws
You asked: "Why is it necessary to use brass screws, other than when near the compass? If the compass is mounted up on the glare shield, can a person use say, stainless on the rest of the panel? Would like to know the answer to this." Based on my experience building minesweepers for the Navy: Cold worked and/or welded 304 stainless is sometimes slightly magnetically permeable, meaning it will distort a field. DC electric power is the strongest magnetic source to interfere with the compass. Brass has no magnetic permeability and will not add to field distortion. Otherwise, I would bet that the only advantage to brass or to stainless on the panel is in the eye of the beholding builder. Ken Smith Plainfield, IL ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 25, 1998
From: Chris Good <101560.1256(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: RV6A wd-405/605
Listers, I finally got around to mounting my HS & elevators. I have a gap between the elevator horns & the center bearing. There are archive entries talking about using washers to fill an 1/8" gap. Mine are 3/16" each side. It looks like there was a plans revision changing from wd-405 to wd-605. The difference is exactly 3/16" in torque tube length. It looks like I got 405's in my kit instead of 605's, although the inventory list says 605's. Anyone else had this problem? It's quite a job to replace the horns. Should I just use 3 washers each side? Or make aluminum (or steel?) spacer blocks? All advice/comments welcome! Chris Good RV6A-Q West Bend, WI ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "LLOYD G SMITHEY" <SMITHEY(at)prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: RV-9
Date: Jul 26, 1998
What is a RV-9 ? It was mentioned on Van's web site but no information. Thanks Lloyd Smithey ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MAlexan533(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 26, 1998
Subject: Hartzell Prop For 0-360?
Listers; I have ordered an 0-360 from Aero Sport in Canada, and am looking for a Hartzell HC-C2yk-IBF prop, besides a new one. Anybody have one (new or used) they want to sell? Or know of a good source for rebuilt ones? How about a prop governor? Am ready to buy one now. Any leads appreciated! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MAlexan533(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 26, 1998
Subject: Hartzell Prop for 0-360?
I forgot to sign my name to my post, must be too late at night for me! Von Alexander MAlexan533(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MAlexan533(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 26, 1998
Subject: Chrome or Metal Spinner Source?
I am looking for a source for a metal spinner for the Hartzell CS prop on 0-360. I love the looks of a chrome spinner , how much credit if any does Vans give you for the fiberglass spinner? Von Alexander RV-8#544 Installing front baggage panels MAlexan533(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
Subject: Re: RV6A wd-405/605
Chris Good wrote: > Listers, > > I finally got around to mounting my HS & elevators. I have a gap between > the elevator horns & the center bearing. There are archive entries talking > about using washers to fill an 1/8" gap. Mine are 3/16" each side. > > It looks like there was a plans revision changing from wd-405 to wd-605. > The difference is exactly 3/16" in torque tube length. It looks like I got > 405's in my kit instead of 605's, although the inventory list says 605's. > > Anyone else had this problem? It's quite a job to replace the horns. > > Should I just use 3 washers each side? Or make aluminum (or steel?) spacer > blocks? Chris - The same challenge arose in my RV-6. I used as many washers as necessary to fill the gap and tightened the cross bolt. I works great. I found the biggest challenge to be to hold the washers in place while I assembled everything in that tight area of the fuselage. I now string the appropriate number of washers on a piece of thread and suspend them on the thread until I have the bolt in place. There is usually enough clearance between the washer & bolt to pull the thread out afterwards. Hope this helps. DGM - RV-6 - Temporally on hold while I finish my PPL training. Southern Alberta ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MAlexan533(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 26, 1998
Subject: Oil Filter or No Oil Filter?
I am trying to decide whether it is worth it to order the optional oil-filter adapter with my 0-360,($260.00) or just use the standard oil screen included. In talking to others, some have said that Lycoming does not recommend the use of spin on oil filters, but rather to just change the oil every 25 hours. I find this hard to believe, as cars use oil filters, and it seems like the filter would screen out much finer particles that the screen would, causing less wear, and cleaner oil, that allows much longer intervals between oil changes (50 hours?) Opinions? Is it worth the money? Von Alexander RV-8 0-360 MAlexan533(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
Date: Jul 26, 1998
Subject: Re: RV-9
> > > > What is a RV-9 ? It was mentioned on Van's web site but no information. > Thanks Lloyd Smithey > It's kind of a higher aspect ratio, lower powered RV-6A. Designed primarily for the training role. There is only the one prototype. Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM RV-6Q Fuel System ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 26, 1998
Subject: Re: Hartzell Prop For 0-360?
<< am looking for a Hartzell HC-C2yk-IBF prop, besides a new one. Anybody have one (new or used) they want to sell? Or know of a good source for rebuilt ones? How about a prop governor? Am ready to buy one now. Any leads appreciated! >> While searching for a C/S prop for my IO-320, I discovered that no one was able to match Van's price on a new Hartzell C/S prop. Every prop shop I talked to said "Call Van's". Every place I talked to said they would have to have almost as much cash for a rebuilt prop, as what Van's would get for a new one. So I got a new one from Van's. That's my exerience. Mark LaBoyteaux RV-6A N106RV "The Silver Streak!" MLaboyteau(at)aol.com Broken Arrow, Ok ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MLaboyteau(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 26, 1998
Subject: Re: Oil Filter or No Oil Filter?
<< some have said that Lycoming does not recommend the use of spin on oil filters, but rather to just change the oil every 25 hours. I find this hard to believe, as cars use oil filters, and it seems like the filter would screen out much finer particles that the screen would, causing less wear, and cleaner oil, that allows much longer intervals between oil changes (50 hours?) Opinions? Is it worth the money? >> I put a remote mounted filter on mine. One of the main reasons I wanted this, is because whether you have the screen or filter, it's pretty tight quarters behind the accessory area, and servicing the screen or filter is much more dificult and makes a bigger mess. Changing the firewall mounted filter is much easier, although, removing the oil pump inlet screen and safetying it back isn't much fun either! Mark LaBoyteaux RV-6A N106RV "The Silver Streak!" MLaboyteau(at)aol.com Broken Arrow, Ok ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Lauritsen" <clevtool(at)tdsi.net>
Subject: Cleaveland Tools - Oshkosh location
Date: Jul 26, 1998
Just wanted to let everyone know that Cleaveland Aircraft Tool will be at a new location at Oshkosh this year. We will be outside just to the North of the new exhibit buildings. This space will be much less cramped and give everyone the opportunity to try out the pneumatic tools. We look forward to seeing everyone there! Mike Lauritsen Cleaveland Aircraft Tool 2225 First St. Boone, IA 50036 1-800-368-1822 orders 1-515-432-6794 questions 1-515-432-7804 FAX clevtool(at)tdsi.net http://www.cleavelandtool.com name="Cleaveland Aircraft Tool.vcf" filename="Cleaveland Aircraft Tool.vcf" BEGIN:VCARD VERSION:2.1 N:Tool;Cleaveland Aircraft FN:Cleaveland Aircraft Tool ORG:Cleaveland Aircraft Tool TEL;WORK;VOICE:515-432-6794 TEL;WORK;FAX:515-432-7804 ADR;WORK:;;2225 First St.;Boone;Iowa;50036;USA Iowa 50036=3D0D=3D0AUSA URL: URL:http://www.cleavelandtool.com EMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:clevtool(at)tdsi.net REV:19980726T144517Z END:VCARD ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 26, 1998
Subject: Re: Hartzell Prop For 0-360?
<< How about a prop governor? >> Try EMI for the governor. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 26, 1998
From: Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Apollo 2001 GPS
Listers, Some of you may remember that I bought a Velocity RG salvage last month that was built and damaged after only 4 taxi runs. The builder put a lot of money into the panel an as a result, I have more avionics than than law allows and will be selling pieces I don't plan to use. FOR SALE Apollo GPS 2001 NMS panel mount IFR approved GPS. This unit is from IIMorrow and is approx 2 years old. New mfr suggested retail was $2395. Dealer prices were typically $1995 Will sell for $1200 or best offer. Includes external GPS antenna To see the details on the unit go to www.iimorrow.com There is a newer full blown TSO'd , fully approved IFR model of this unit which sells for approx $5K. The factory said this unit could be upgraded to that level for $1500. Please reply directly to me at emcole(at)ix.netcom.com Ed Cole RV6A Fuse skins Cupertino, CA 408-257-3281 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 26, 1998
From: Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Terra Radios
Listers, If anyone is interested in a full Terra Radio stack including : TN200D NAV w/glide slope TX760D COM TRT 250D Transponer + AT3000 encoder, Tri C Nav head TM23 Marker Beacon Please contact Ed Cole offline emcole(at)ix.netcom.com 408-257-3281 Ed Cole RV6A Fuse Skins Cupertino, CA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MAlexan533(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 26, 1998
Subject: Motels @ Oshkosh
My son and I are looking for a motel room at or near Oshkosh. Usually this late in the game there are a number of cancellations at most motels. Since I don't know the phone #s of any motels around there, would you listers be so kind as to forward the phone # of the motels you are staying at so that I can call and check on availability? Thanks much! Von Alexander MAlexan533(at)aol.com Salem, Oregon ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 26, 1998
From: "Ray Murphy Jr." <murphy(at)mail.coos.or.us>
Subject: Re: First Flight Of N655RV
Ron, Congratulations on your first flight!!! 2 years and 5 months. Did you ever sleep? How many hours a day did you average? Ron Caldwell wrote: > > This morning, after 2 years and 5 months of construction, I flew my new > RV-6A for the first time. It was a tremendous experience to be at the > controls and flying something that I had built with my own two hands. > Yes, it was very hard work, but well worth the time, sweat, and blood > put into it. > Ray Murphy, Jr. North Bend, OR 6A VS ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)SagentTech.com>
Subject: Terra Radios
Date: Jul 26, 1998
Hey, thanks for giving me first crack at this stuff!! Any interest in selling the NAV separately? > -----Original Message----- > From: Edward Cole > Sent: Sunday, July 26, 1998 8:32 AM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Terra Radios > > > Listers, > > If anyone is interested in a full Terra Radio stack including : > > TN200D NAV w/glide slope > TX760D COM > TRT 250D Transponer + AT3000 encoder, > Tri C Nav head > TM23 Marker Beacon > > Please contact Ed Cole offline > emcole(at)ix.netcom.com > 408-257-3281 > > > Ed Cole > RV6A Fuse Skins > Cupertino, CA > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 26, 1998
From: "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)a.crl.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Filter or No Oil Filter?
>I am trying to decide whether it is worth it to order the optional oil-filter >adapter with my 0-360,($260.00)... Well, let's see what Lycoming says on the subject. SB480 specifies drain intervals for engines with filters and for engines with screens: Quoting SB 480: A. 50-Hour interval oil change and filter replacement for all engines using full-flow filtration system (except for engine models TIO-540-AF1A and -AF1B). B. 25-Hour oil change and screen cleaning for all engines employing a pressure screen system. (End of SB 480 quotation) In no Service Bulletin, Service Letter, or Service Instruction could I find a recommendation of one system over the other. The message should be clear from the longer drain interval, however. It is also important to note that Lycoming specifies a maximum of four months between oil changes, no matter how many hours have been accumulated. When I acquired my engine, it was runout, at the end of its second run. It had been in a Part 135 airplane and flown almost every day. Furthermore, the oil and filter were changed every 50 hours. Upon teardown, the crankshaft, camshaft, and lifters were found to be immaculate. They looked so good in fact that a significant number of people asked "What kind of oil was the operator using?" (Aeroshell 50). The only place we found any wear was the gears in the accessory case. All but one of my gears was unservicable. I also understand that the presence/lack of accessory case gear-wear is on of the main differences between changing oil every 25 hours and changing every 50 hours. Now, those gears cost me about $700. By my calculations, that is approximetely equal to the additional cost of changing the oil and filter every 25 hours instead of every 50. You pays your money now, or you pays your money later. Best Regards, dave Barnhart rv-6 sn 23744 N601DB Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Jul 26, 1998
Subject: Re: Oil Filter or No Oil Filter?
On 26 Jul 98, at 1:53, MAlexan533(at)aol.com wrote: > > In talking to others, some have said that Lycoming does > not recommend the use of spin on oil filters, but rather to just change > the oil every 25 hours. Baloney, methinks. Lycoming Service Bulletin No. 480B (June 29, 1998) says: "Textron Lycoming recommends the following: A. 50-Hour interval oil change and filter replacement for all engines using full- flow filtration system... B. 25-Hour interval oil change and screen cleaning for all engines employing a pressure screen system. C. A total of four months maximum between changes for both systems listed under "A" and "B"." Tim _+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_ Tim Lewis N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 on gear, engine mounted Springfield VA http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a timrv6a(at)iname.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 26, 1998
From: Lucylle DeWitt <lucylle.dewitt(at)gte.net>
panel mount Hi Listers, I'm interested in any info (installation, use, company support, options recommended) any of you have on the Garmin GNC 250XL panel mount GPS/COM. Has anyone used it with a Navaid wing leveler? Thanks in advance. Warren Bishop RV-6 getting close to filling Inst. Panel holes North Platte, NE, USA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 26, 1998
From: Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Terra Radios
Mitch Faatz wrote: > > > Hey, thanks for giving me first crack at this stuff!! Any interest in > selling the NAV separately? > Hey, Don't whine! I'm trying to get a feel for selling the whole shebang at once. So far I got 3 nibbles and someone wants the transponder/encoder. So hang tight.... Ed ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JamesCone(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 26, 1998
Subject: Off to Oshkosh
Listers, I am off to Oshkosh. I will see you at Van's booth or at the banquet. I am unsubscribing from the list until I get back. If you need to E-mail me, send it direct to me at jamescone(at)aol.com. I will subscribe when I get back. Jim Cone jamescone(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JamesCone(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 26, 1998
Subject: Re: Motels @ Oshkosh
Your chance of getting a motel room at Oshkosh are exactly 0.000000000% plus or minus 0.000000000000000000. Plan to camp. The only way to get a room is to have one willed to you by your grandfather. Good luck. Jim Cone ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 26, 1998
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: #4 Terminal Lugs
>>Forgot to mention I solder using a $2 bottle of solder paste, PLEEEEEeeeezzz don't use any form of soldering flux on electrical joints other than the flux that comes already inside electronic grade solder. Clean copper wires and/or tinned terminals solder up VERY nicely with no additional active chemistry. MOST if not all solder enhancers found in hardware stores contain chemistry that is or will become corrosive with time and when soldering large wires with lots of strands . . . the flux WILL get into the stranding beneath your solder joint. There are packaged fluxes for electronic service but you don't find them in hardware stores. I've been soldering things electrical together for over 40 years. Got rid of my first and only can of hardware store solder paste about 38 years ago when I opened up a project that had been in service about two years and found strange, white fuzzy stuff on the joints and under the insulation for the wires. > . . . . .60/40 solder >and a hand held butane torch I got at the hardware for $12 or so. There >are two types of torch--get the cheaper, less hot one that uses butane and >not another hotter welding gas--you don't need it. The solder flows >beautifully into every nook and cranny EVERY time and I remove excess flux >with a spray can of solder joint cleaner. These cleaners are typically designed for electronic service. The weaker ones use some alcohols while the stronger cleaners get really nasty with stuff like methyl-chloride. The artificial resins found in modern electronic solders doesn't need to be cleaned off but you can. I prefer to wipe the parts down with a rag dampened with MEK, Acetone, or lacquer thinner. You need less liquid to wipe and put fewer molecules of trash into the air. > . . . . The result is a very shiny joint indeed. Agreed . . . but the fluxes you find in hardware stores may change the appearance of the joint radically in a few months. > . . . By the way, I do crimp mechanically as well as solder. Okay but not necessary. A properly soldered joint is just as reliable as a properly crimped joint. I've published a technique for soldering large terminals on fat wires at: <http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/big_term.pdf> It's a big file (lots of photos). If anyone has trouble downloading and/or printing it, drop me a fax # and I'll send you a copy. >Gary V wrote: >Soldering? Ay caramba! We don't do no stinking soldering! Crimp them. >And I was a soldering process engineer. Given my druthers, I'd wish every builder to have every certified crimp tool he needs to install every terminal in his project. I've seen articles and witnessed too many attempts to "crimp" terminals with home-made and/or manufactured tools of the wrong type. There's nothing wrong with solder, it just takes some different skills . . . . skills that are not difficult to acquire. I been soldering "fat" terminals using the techniques described in the above article for over 37 years . . . haven't had one come loose or burn off yet . . . Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========= < If you continue to do > < What you've always done > < You will continue to be > < What you've always been. > ================================= <http://www.aeroelectric.com> ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-9
From: smcdaniels(at)Juno.com (SCOTT R MCDANIELS)
Date: Jul 26, 1998
>What is a RV-9 ? It was mentioned on Van's web site but no >information. > The RV-9 is a hybrid airplane that started life as an RV-6A that was damage a couple years ago (what was then know as the RV-6T, light yellow in color, and now know as the raspberry patch special... ask Andy H. about that one). It is an RV-6A fuselage with a constant cord horizontal stab, and flat steel main gear and spar center section similar to an RV-8. The wing follows no RV traditions except for being metal. It has a John Ronz airfoil which is narrower in cord but wider in span (28 ft.) than a typical RV. It has slotted flaps that are each almost 8 ft. long. Both the flaps and ailerons have riveted trailing edges. On the tips is a set of new style sheared wing tips (those of you who attend OSH if you look close may also notice a prototype set of them on Old Blue (the RV-6A). Fwd of the firewall is a O-235 L2C right off of a Piper Tomahawk/Cessna 152 with a Sensenich fixed pitch metal prop. The airplane weighs under 1000 lbs with paint and interior and holds 34 gal of fuel. We though the homebuilder community would enjoy seeing an airplane that cruises at 170 mph on about 6.5 gal/Hr but has a power off stall speed of under 45 mph, so the airplane will be on display at OSH. An answer to the inevitable question? No there is no plan at this time to develop a kit for this airplane. It was a research vehicle only, but who knows what the future holds. P.S. I will be off the list while at Oshkosh. See you there. Scott McDaniels These opinions and ideas are my own and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of my employer. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 26, 1998
Subject: Extended Backriveting Tool
I need advice on using the extended backriveting tool from Avery. I'm going to use it to drive the rivets on my fuselage. I had good luck with the standard backriveting tool, and need to know if there are any "tricks" to using the longer one. Thanks in advance, Kyle Boatright ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 26, 1998
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Motels @ Oshkosh
>My son and I are looking for a motel room at or near Oshkosh. Usually this >late in the game there are a number of cancellations at most motels. Since I >don't know the phone #s of any motels around there, would you listers be so >kind as to forward the phone # of the motels you are staying at so that I can >call and check on availability? Thanks much! >Von Alexander >MAlexan533(at)aol.com >Salem, Oregon Your chances of finding a room close and at this late date are very slim. You might try . . . Karin & Tom Livingood 1922 Olive (North Osh) Oshkosh, WI 54901 Phone (920) 231-4899 I heard they've got some rooms available and unlike many homes in OSH, they DO have central air conditioning!!!! Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========= < If you continue to do > < What you've always done > < You will continue to be > < What you've always been. > ================================= <http://www.aeroelectric.com> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 27, 1998
From: Todd Lattimer <todd(at)lis.net.au>
Subject: calling David Yates :)
Hi all, Sorry to waste everyones bandwidth, but i recieved an e-mail from David Yates who lives in Brisbane the other day. David can you mail me off list with your return e-mail address so i can get back to you :) cheers Todd ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MAlexan533(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 27, 1998
Subject: Bob - Opinion on EXP Bus?
Most of you have probably seen the ads for the new EXP bus for homebuilts, by controlvision. It is supposed to be a complete electic system in one small unit, with CB's, switches, the works, and is supposed to greatly reduce the wiring job, especially for those of us using basic panels. Any opinions by the experts? Bob? Or does anybody have one in use? It sounds like a great product. Thanks. Von Alexander Might be sleeping on the street, but a least I will be at the BIG O! MAlexan533(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 27, 1998
Subject: Oshkosh Folks
Fly safe and smart and have loads of fun--take care--JR ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Bob - Opinion on EXP Bus?
Date: Jul 26, 1998
There's quite a bit of info in the archives on this! The new search engine works great! Check it out. Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA > >Most of you have probably seen the ads for the new EXP bus for homebuilts, by controlvision >Von Alexander >Might be sleeping on the street, but a least I will be at the BIG O! >MAlexan533(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Extended Backriveting Tool
Date: Jul 26, 1998
>I need advice on using the extended backriveting tool from Avery. I'm going >to use it to drive the rivets on my fuselage. I had good luck with the >standard backriveting tool, and need to know if there are any "tricks" to >using the longer one. > >Thanks in advance, > >Kyle Boatright Kyle, Well, I personally had lousy luck with the extended tool. I caused more dings and destruction with that thing than I care to remember. I did find that the sharp edge around the cup needed to be ground to a more gentle radius. This reduced the damage to the surrounding metal somewhat, but didn't eliminate it. I riveted two rib lines on one wing with this tool, and found the results to be not as uniform as the rivets set with the flush set (swivel type...yeah, I'm one of THOSE weenies). I know there are some builders who have had great luck with it, but I'm not one of them. Just my observations thus far. I hope it works well for you. Brian Denk RV-8 #379 fuselage jig underway http://geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/9656/index.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: shoopdj(at)aramco.com.sa (Dan J. Shoop)
Subject: Motels @ Oshkosh
Date: Jul 27, 1998
You can contact Rich Schultz in Appleton, WI at : 102466.3131(at)compuserve.com He might be able to put you up at his place - big house + no people (except him). He's going to the AirShow every day. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com>
Subject: Extended Backriveting Tool
Date: Jul 27, 1998
I think the extended backriveting tool is great. You will need a bit more pressure to have good sets with this. I use 42 psi. Despite advise to the contrary, I normally use a 203 pound bucking bar with it. That's a 3 pound bucking bar in the hands of my 200 pound assistant. Most folks I have talked to use a heavier bucking bar. I have heavier bucking bars but like this one the best. I think the results are great. You should shave the corners a bit though. I have found several places on my 6a quickbuild where I would likely have to use pop-rivets if I had not had the tool. You can also use the tool to buck AN470 rivets for some of your close tolerance work. Hope this helps, Gary RV6AQ Ronaoke, VA Canopy (it's not all that bad after all) Sliders Rule!! ************************************************* * Gary Fesenbek * * Meridium Inc. * * (540) 344-9205 x112 * * gfesenbek(at)meridium.com * * http://www.meridium.com * ************************************************* > -----Original Message----- > From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com [SMTP:KBoatri144(at)aol.com] > Sent: Sunday, July 26, 1998 11:55 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Extended Backriveting Tool > > > > I need advice on using the extended backriveting tool from Avery. I'm > going > to use it to drive the rivets on my fuselage. I had good luck with > the > standard backriveting tool, and need to know if there are any "tricks" > to > using the longer one. > > Thanks in advance, > > Kyle Boatright > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com>
Subject: Banquet
Date: Jul 27, 1998
Bill, IF you can get tickets at Van's booth (They're usually gone the first couple of days), get there as early as you can. I've never been to one myself but have talked to others that have and they've all enjoyed it.... Spent all day yesterday doing maintenance. Oil change, engine inspection, new air filter, fixed the hole in the lower cowl (the alternator hit it when I lost a lower cowl pin...), new front tire, packed wheel bearings, and stated the repairs on the front wheel pant. After I get back from Oshkosh, I'll do my annual... Fred >-----Original Message----- >From: BSivori(at)aol.com [SMTP:BSivori(at)aol.com] >Sent: Friday, July 24, 1998 5:08 PM >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: Banquet > > >Fred, > >I have never been to the Banquet, is it worth going, is it the RV Banquet or >the Oshkosh Banquet. > >We will be 5 I think - > >Let me know > >Bill > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 27, 1998
From: charles(at)onramp.net (charles young)
Subject: Re: Oil Filter or No Oil Filter?
My new Lycoming 360 came from the factory with a Spin On filter. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 27, 1998
From: Moe Colontonio <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: Motels @ Oshkosh
Look for a private residence. There are still plenty left, you just have to do some searching. Start at the EAA web page. www.eaa.org -- Moe Colontonio moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net Check out my RV-8 page at: http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe JamesCone(at)aol.com wrote: > > Your chance of getting a motel room at Oshkosh are exactly 0.000000000% plus > or minus 0.000000000000000000. Plan to camp. The only way to get a room is > to have one willed to you by your grandfather. Good luck. > > Jim Cone ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 27, 1998
From: Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com>
Subject: Re: Now THAT"S Performance!!!
Walt, OK, you were out performing most RV's, but what was your fuel flow? Scott Gesele N506RV (also subsonic, but at 7.4 GPH) > >I realize that this is off the subject but.... I had to tell somebody! >This evening I got to go for a ride in the fastest business jet in the >world... a Cessna Citation X!!! Talk about performance! Climbed out of Santa >Monica Airport at 6000fpm @ 200knots! Kept climbing until we reached 49,000 >ft.( At 40,000 ft she was still climbing at 1000fpm at a TAS of around >450kts, mach meter was at .87)!!! (OAT was -81 F) Circled at 49,000 for >about 15 minutes and then started descent, heading towards Ventura/ Camarillo >area. Descent was at 5,800FPM ! What a ride!! > >Walt RV-6A N79WH > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 27, 1998
From: Bob Skinner <bskinr(at)trib.com>
Subject: Re: Extended Backriveting Tool
>I need advice on using the extended backriveting tool from Avery. I'm going >to use it to drive the rivets on my fuselage. I had good luck with the >standard backriveting tool, and need to know if there are any "tricks" to >using the longer one. >Kyle Boatright Kyle, I've had pretty good luck with this method, both on wing skins and fuselage skins. I heated the ram and put a 5 degrees, or so, more bend in the end. I also polished the sharp edges on the Scotchbrite wheel. To avoid dinging the surface around the end of the set, you need to be very aware of the relationship of the end of the set to the surface. I needs to be parallel, of course but you need to key off the end of the set, not the straight, ram portion. Have the person holding the bar insert the rivet, put the bar on the factory head and then you put the cupped end on the rivet tail. With the bar holder not pressing hard, you push the rivet out until you set is flush to the surface. Then have the bar holder puch the rivet back in the hole. Concentrate on holding the parallel relationship that was present when you set was flush to the inside surface. Steady the end of the set with the fingers of one hand and run the gun with the other. Make sure your bucking buddy never removes the bar until you say "next". You may want to set a rivet a bit more and if he removes the bar it could be bad. After a few rivets, you'll probably find that you have to do very little "touch up" driving and riveting will go very fast. As always, practice on some scrap, first. The secret to the practice session is to make the practice piece as solid as possible so as to duplicate "real life". Use as low air pressure as possible. The bucking bar we use is Avery's part no 635. Bob Skinner RV-6 425 hrs. Buffalo, WY bskinr(at)trib.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 27, 1998
From: "James K. Hurd" <hurd(at)riolink.com>
Subject: Fibreglas for Canopy
Would appreciate someone posting a product-specific shopping list for canopy construction-related fibreglas resin, fabric, release agent, et al. Also, a good mail-order source for same. (Can't find non-polyester resin locally.) Thanks. Jim New Mexico 6A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 27, 1998
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Bob - Opinion on EXP Bus?
> >Most of you have probably seen the ads for the new EXP bus for homebuilts, by >controlvision. It is supposed to be a complete electic system in one small >unit, with CB's, switches, the works, and is supposed to greatly reduce the >wiring job, especially for those of us using basic panels. Any opinions by the >experts? Bob? Or does anybody have one in use? It sounds like a great product. I've published two pieces on this (and similar products) at: <http://www.aeroelectric.com/expbusad.html> <http://www.aeroelectric.com/xpbusthd.html> Even when the designer of the EXP-Bus joined the conversation, he declined to answer specific questions about his claims for the product. There's probably a great deal of discussion in the RV-list archives as well. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========= < If you continue to do > < What you've always done > < You will continue to be > < What you've always been. > ================================= <http://www.aeroelectric.com> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 27, 1998
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: #4 Terminal Lugs
>Bob: I did electronic repair for about 6 years on computers back when >there were quite a few wires still on the boards. One of the things I >noticed was that if there were any movement of the wires, they ALWAYS broke >at the solder joint, like the heat from soldering had "heat hardened" the >copper, causing it to be less flexible. I also found out about the problem >with solder flux the hard way and threw it away. there are fluxes and then there are FLUXES . . . . see Gary Crane's most illuminating post . . . I've posted a copy of this thread at <http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/solder.html> > . . . . Have you found any >problems with wires breaking next to the solder joint, or could it have >been my technique. Thanks >Art GlaStar #5289 > ANY wire that is crimped or soldered will break off right at the joint if not supported behind the joint. This is a feature built into the pre-insulated, diamond-grip (PIDG) by AMP and equivalent devices from other manufacturers. There's a sort of evil aura built up around soldered joints as being less reliable because of breakage at the joint. It isn't the joint's fault but the lack of insulation support behind the joint. Try crimping an un-insulated terminal to a small gage wire and you'll get the same results. With FAT wires, the stress levels are much lower and as I've written before, never had a FAT guy break off or burn away when installed per the referenced article. I've been diseminating that article in one form or another to hundreds of builders and I've had no reported difficulties with the technique. With small wires, PIDG terminals or solder + heatshrink will produce adequate joints. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========= < If you continue to do > < What you've always done > < You will continue to be > < What you've always been. > ================================= <http://www.aeroelectric.com> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com
Date: Jul 27, 1998
Subject: Re: Now THAT"S Performance!!!
Do I smell a RV with twin turbojets coming on? ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: RV-List: Now THAT"S Performance!!! Date: 27-07-98 02:37 I realize that this is off the subject but.... I had to tell somebody! This evening I got to go for a ride in the fastest business jet in the world... a Cessna Citation X!!! Talk about performance! Climbed out of Santa Monica Airport at 6000fpm @ 200knots! Kept climbing until we reached 49,000 ft.( At 40,000 ft she was still climbing at 1000fpm at a TAS of around 450kts, mach meter was at .87)!!! (OAT was -81 F) Circled at 49,000 for about 15 minutes and then started descent, heading towards Ventura/ Camarillo area. Descent was at 5,800FPM ! What a ride!! Walt RV-6A N79WH ________________________________________________________________________________
From: A20driver(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 27, 1998
Subject: Re: Now THAT"S Performance!!!
fuel flow--econo cruise--7.4 gal/min!!!! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 27, 1998
From: Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com>
Subject: Final Update on Banquet Table seats
Hi Gang, The list below shows the names of the RV-listers who have asked to be seated together at the Matronics RV-list table at Van's Banquet this coming Sunday. The number following the name represents the number of seats reserved for that individual. An asterisk (*) indicates which people have already purchased tickets directly from Van. The final tally is shows 36 seats needed, and 23 tickets needed to reserve. I will call Van's office in Oregon later today and make the ticket reservations. PLEASE REMEMBER to pick up your tickets at Van's display tent at 'Kosh, and PLEASE REMEMBER to tell Van that these tickets were reserved through the Matronics RV-List. They are doing us a favor by holding the tickets without pre-paying for them ( something Van doesn't often do). If we keep it straight and true, then Van can release for sale all of his other tickets. Seeya at 'Kosh . Philip Lozman -1 Gary Baker - 3, * George Kilishek -1 Scott A. Littfin -1 Jim and Bev Cone -2 R.L. Glas -1, * Bill and Sis Costello -2 Bill Sivori -5 Bernie Kerr -1 Patrick Kelley -2, * Bruce Knoll -2 Rob Acker -2 Scott (last name unknown) -3, * Robert Dimeo -2 David Lundquist -2 James E. Clark-2 Fred Stuckle- 3 , * Louis Willig -1 Louis Louis I. Willig larywil(at)home.com (610) 668-4964 Philadelphia, PA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 27, 1998
From: Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Oil Consumption
Listers, Here is something to ponder while your surfing the net instead of working. I found this last night among Lycoming's service tips. "The Maximum allowable oil consumption limits for all Textron Lycoming aircraft engines can be determined by using the following formula: " .006 X BHP X 4 / 7.4 = Qt/Hr. Seems excessive to me Ed Cole. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 27, 1998
Subject: Re: Now THAT"S Performance!!!
my rv can do that on a bad day !!! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Neil France" <nfrance(at)avnet.co.uk>
Subject: Pop rivet spec.
Date: Jul 27, 1998
Dear all, I need to buy some extra pop rivets, namely MD42BS and LP4-3, unfortunately I cannot find a supplier in the U.K. who recognises these part numbers. Does any one know of either alternative part numbers or the specification of these rivets, so that we may cross refer them. Thanks in advance Neil. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Roger Bocox" <rbocox(at)ryko.com>
Subject: Canopy Frame Fiberglassing
Date: Jul 27, 1998
Jim, You can get good Epoxy from Wicks, or Aircraft Spruce has both epoxy and Vinyl Ester resin. Use standard 9 oz cloth for the lay-ups, with a lay-up of about 4 to 7 layers-- depending on your thickness preference. For a release agent, I just used Johnson paste wax. They make a regular release wax, or you can spray on poly-vinyl alcohol, (PVA). I think aircraft Spruce has these products also. A suggestion. Before you wax up the canopy, mark out the edge of the canopy frame with a few layers of plastic tape of some sort. Do this on both the plastic canopy part and also on the front metal. Get a pretty good build up about 1/32 to a 1/16th of an inch high. After the part is molded in place, and you remove it, the tape will give you a nice bump in the fiberglass which you can use as a cut line. Highlight the bump in the glass with a felt tip marker and this will make the line much easier to see. Then go at it with carbide wheel on a die grinder, sand and smooth the edge with sandpaper.. It is not too difficult, but it does make a mess. Be sure and cover everything else with plastic or paper, or you will get resin on everything. Roger E. Bocox, [ RBocox(at)Ryko.com ] RV-6A N872 RF in Des Moines, Iowa ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert D. Fitton" <fitton(at)vegas.infi.net>
Subject: Solenoid Orientation
Date: Jul 27, 1998
There were a few posts some time back regarding the orientation of the continuous duty and the starter solenoids. As I recall, there was some concern that the solenoids would either open or close under elevated "G"s. I just searched the archives using key word "solenoid" but none of the titles returned seemed to be what I was looking for. I'm about to mount the continuous duty solenoid. Should I worry about G-loading? Bob RV-4 Wiring ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 27, 1998
From: jerry parr <parravion(at)mcmail.com>
Subject: Pop rivet spec.
Hi Neil Have you tried Skycraft near Spalding, Lincs or Light Aero Spares who I think are in Shebbear (spelling?) in Devon. No numbers I'm afraid, no black book here! Failing the above speak to Van's - it may prove cheaper and just as quick despite the shipping. I reckon we 'foreigners' will have the list to ourselves whilst Oshkosh is on! Best Wishes Jerry Parr Peterborough, England RV-6, G-RVVI Engine, cowling and spats ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 27, 1998
From: "Flying Phil's Circus" <sisson(at)ctnet.net>
Subject: Re: Solenoid Orientation
Bob why don't you contact Aviat at their Pitts home page and ask them this question. I'm sure they know more about this very question than anyone and most of the news group would be interested in the answer. Phil Robert D. Fitton wrote: > > > There were a few posts some time back regarding the orientation of the > > continuous duty and the starter solenoids. As I recall, there was > some > concern that the solenoids would either open or close under elevated > "G"s. > I just searched the archives using key word "solenoid" but none of the > > titles returned seemed to be what I was looking for. I'm about to > mount the > continuous duty solenoid. Should I worry about G-loading? > > Bob > RV-4 Wiring > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BSivori(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 27, 1998
Subject: Re: Banquet
Fred, I think we a departing FRG on Friday afternoon but this too can change, but I know we are departing OSH on Sunday afternoon as we all have work on Monday AM Did some work over the weekend closing the other wing, bu the weather was too nice so I went to the pool with the XYL Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 27, 1998
From: scott <acepilot(at)mwt.net>
Subject: [Fwd: Polished aluminum and coatings]
Anybody tried this stuff? I sure would like to have a polished RV4 (please, no cracks about being nuts wanting all that work). Scott Tail kit in hand -- Gotta Fly or Gonna Die ! --Ask me about my Aeronca Super Chief-- amended 8-29-97: Now after feeling the "Need for Speed", building an RV-4! Tail kit arrived!! Somewhat regretfully, the Super Chief is now for sale. $8500 :( From: Andreas Meyer <meyer(at)an.hp.com> Subject: Polished aluminum and coatings Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 14:49:03 -0400 BestServHost: lists.best.com I am in the process of restoring my 120 and have just finished stripping as many as 5 layers of paint off the fuselage (don't ask how long it took me to do that - waaaay too many hours for me to keep track of). My intent is to restore the plane to its original looks; i.e. polished fuselage. I have heard more than enough about how tedious it is to keep a plane polished so I've been looking around to see what I can protect the fuselage with once it's polished and I came accross this Nyalic product: http://www.nyalic.com/overview.htm It's not cheap ($140/gal) but if it works as advertised it might be the bargain of the century. Has anybody out there tried this product or heard of anybody trying it out? Also if somebody has some good tips/products on how to go about polishing a fuselage that has 0 shine to it right now let me know. Thanks for any input, Andreas Meyer ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Polished aluminum and coatings]
Date: Jul 27, 1998
-----Original Message----- From: scott <acepilot(at)mwt.net> Date: Monday, July 27, 1998 5:59 PM Subject: RV-List: [Fwd: Polished aluminum and coatings] > > > >Anybody tried this stuff? I sure would like to have a polished RV4 >(please, no cracks about being nuts wanting all that work). > >Scott >Tail kit in hand > Hi Scott, A recent RVator mentioned that some people that just had to have a polished plane reported good luck with a treatment sold by the Airstream trailer people. I don't recall if they talked about removing the stuff if you changed your mind and decided to paint after all :-). Steve Johnson RV-8 #80121 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert Bristol" <bbristol(at)intranet.ca>
Subject: Re: Bob - Opinion on EXP Bus?
Date: Jul 27, 1998
-----Original Message----- From: Leslie B. Williams <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com> Date: Monday, July 27, 1998 2:34 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Bob - Opinion on EXP Bus? Listers, I am unsure who the question on the EXP Bus was addressed to but my $.02 worth is that it is well worth the money. It saved me considerable time and money wiring my aircraft and so far is working fine. Most of the folks I showed it to seemed impressed with the quality and the service has been good. I installed the optional monitor and made my support bracket. Bob Bristol RV6A C-GCTZ (still trying to find the time to finish the test period). bbristol(at)intranet.ca ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 27, 1998
From: pagan <pagan(at)CBOSS.COM>
Subject: My Webpage
Ok, here is my first feeble attempt at html publishing. Constructive advice and compliments only please!:-) Hope you enjoy. http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html We're off to Oshkosh, hope to see you there. Bill Pagan 80555 fuel tanks and such ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 27, 1998
From: pagan <pagan(at)CBOSS.COM>
Subject: My Webpage
Ok, here is my first feeble attempt at html publishing. Constructive advice and compliments only please!:-) Hope you enjoy. http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html We're off to Oshkosh, hope to see you there. Bill Pagan 80555 fuel tanks and such ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvator97(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 27, 1998
Subject: Re: Now THAT"S Performance!!!
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that we used 2500lbs of fuel @ 1.90 per gallon... Pretty close to a thousand bucks! My brother is co-pilot on the plane and they "had" to do a test flight. Something to do with a generator that wasn't working properly . Walt engine > compartment, remember it is standard practice > not to install any material that ignites easily >or puts off noxious or toxic fumes when burned! > Rver273sb > I second that motion! I ignited some of the conduit with a propane torch to test it and it gave off some very noxious fumes. I now regret using it in the wings and I swear I'll never use it in the fuselage! Dennis Persyk 6A Hampshire, IL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Jul 27, 1998
Subject: Re: Solenoid Orientation
The answers I received indicated that the "lid" should face horizontally. That's what I'll be doing. Tim _+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_ Tim Lewis N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 on gear, engine mounted Springfield VA http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a timrv6a(at)iname.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Morrissey, John" <John.Morrissey(at)its.csiro.au>
Subject: My Webpage
Date: Jul 28, 1998
Hi Bill, Cute!! We in Australia like giving nicknames to everyone - yours would be Rooster as your the only guy in the hen house!! Looks like your making good progress on the RV8 - keep at it! John Morrissey -----Original Message----- From: pagan [mailto:pagan(at)CBOSS.COM] Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 1998 10:39 AM Subject: RV-List: My Webpage Ok, here is my first feeble attempt at html publishing. Constructive advice and compliments only please!:-) Hope you enjoy. http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html We're off to Oshkosh, hope to see you there. Bill Pagan 80555 fuel tanks and such ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bowen" <larry(at)bowen.com>
Subject: Now THAT"S Performance!!!
Date: Jul 27, 1998
Reminds me of my $30,000 free ride in N118RV last year at OSH. -Larry Email: larry(at)bowen.com Web: http://larry.bowen.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rvator97(at)aol.com Sent: Monday, July 27, 1998 2:38 AM Subject: RV-List: Now THAT"S Performance!!! I realize that this is off the subject but.... I had to tell somebody! This evening I got to go for a ride in the fastest business jet in the world... a Cessna Citation X!!! Talk about performance! Climbed out of Santa Monica Airport at 6000fpm @ 200knots! Kept climbing until we reached 49,000 ft.( At 40,000 ft she was still climbing at 1000fpm at a TAS of around 450kts, mach meter was at .87)!!! (OAT was -81 F) Circled at 49,000 for about 15 minutes and then started descent, heading towards Ventura/ Camarillo area. Descent was at 5,800FPM ! What a ride!! Walt RV-6A N79WH ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 27, 1998
From: John Perri <jperri(at)aros.net>
Subject: Low Time RV Pilots
With respect to the thread of low time RV Pilots. I just finished instructing a zero time friend in a cessna 152. He received his private license with 43 total hours. His next flight was in a RV-6A which he just purchased. I only needed to give him about three hours instruction before I thought he could solo, but Avemco asked for 10. He has now 55 total hours which includes mountain flying with high altitude short field takeoffs and landings. He getting quite proficient and is really enjoying his flying machine. Either he was an exceptional student or I am the worlds greatest instructor. Guess which one I would prefer? I believe the RV to be easily handled by the average low time pilot with proper instruction. The only surprise is how fast it fly's and how it just begs not to slow down and land. JMP RV-6 N345JE back in the air this week ? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: My Webpage
Date: Jul 27, 1998
>Ok, here is my first feeble attempt at html publishing. Constructive >advice and compliments only please!:-) Hope you enjoy. > >http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html > >We're off to Oshkosh, hope to see you there. > > >Bill Pagan >80555 >fuel tanks and such Bill, Welcome to the world of Geocities! Now, if we can just figure out how to get rid of that ANNOYING pop-up window. I'll add the URL for your page on my RV-8 page. Of course, you're building one o' them planes with that little wheely thingy under the nose, which makes me pause, but AT LEAST you had the presence of mind to not build a "screw it and glue it" Glassair. nyuk, nyuk. Enjoy the Proseal! hehe.. Brian "shoulda bought a -8A, but I LOVE paying higher insurance premiums" Denk RV-8 #379 building fuselage jig http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/9656/index.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WBWard(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 27, 1998
Subject: Re: Pop rivet spec.
<< I reckon we 'foreigners' will have the list to ourselves whilst Oshkosh is on! >> Not so, Jerry. I won't be going to Oshkosh, until I can fly the "Junkyard Dog" RV-4 there. But you "foreigners" go ahead and continue your posts anyway. I've got a lot of good info from you, and the fellows in "OZ." Regards Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 27, 1998
Subject: Re: Oil Consumption
<< "The Maximum allowable oil consumption limits for all Textron Lycoming aircraft engines can be determined by using the following formula: " .006 X BHP X 4 / 7.4 = Qt/Hr. Seems excessive to me >> Let's look at a comparison. I've got a new O-360-A1A (180 hp) and in the first 100 flying hours (this includes break-in), not counting the oil for drain and refill, I have added a total of 2 qts (64 fl oz) of makeup oil. Of this 2 qts, about 1/2 cup (4 fl oz) was recovered from the oil separator and the balance (60 fl oz) apparently burned up. This is a consumption of about .01875 qts/hr. The formula would allow that to go to .584 qt/hr (30 times my baseline). I'd say that formula is excessive, but what do I know? -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 28, 1998
Subject: Re: Solenoid Orientation
<< I'm about to mount the continuous duty solenoid. Should I worry about G-loading? >> Just to be safe, turn them so the large terminals are up and down. It's harder to pull sideways g loads. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mark S. Jennings" <markjenn(at)halcyon.com>
Subject: RE: Max oil consumption
Date: Jul 28, 1998
> << "The Maximum allowable oil consumption limits for all Textron Lycoming > aircraft engines > can be determined by using the following formula: " > > .006 X BHP X 4 / 7.4 = Qt/Hr. > > Seems excessive to me >> I believe this formula is right, allowing approximately 1-qt/hr in a big-bore and 1/2-qt/hr in a small bore. It is derived by noting the point where oil dilution of the incoming charge becomes high enough such that the octane of the fuel is lowered and detonation limits are exceeded. It is also the point where the standard sump capacity doesn't provide enough extra oil for a 4-hr or so flight. These rates are higher than most pilots want to hassle with, and are certainly higher than is acceptable from a new or O/H'd engine, but are considered "safe". - Mark ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 28, 1998
From: Rod Smith <rsmith(at)alaska.net>
Subject: Panel Screws
Stainless steel is either non-magnetic or weakly magnetic, I dont remember which at the moment. Stainless screws should work fine in a panel as a brass screw replacement. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Allan.Gibson(at)fluordaniel.com
Date: Jul 28, 1998
unsubscribe bye for now. see some of you at Oshkosh..... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WBWard(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 28, 1998
Subject: Re: Panel Screws
<< Stainless steel is either non-magnetic or weakly magnetic, I dont remember which at the moment. Stainless screws should work fine in a panel as a brass screw replacement. >> ________________________________________________________________________________ Delivered-To: fixup-rv-list(at)matronics.com@fixme
Date: Jul 28, 1998
From: Ron Caldwell <rlcaldwell(at)uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Bob - Opinion on EXP Bus?
I have the EXP- Bus installed in my 6A. It works great. I feel it did same me some time in wiring the airplane. I tested the unit by deliberately over loading some of the circuits to see if it worked as advertised. And it does. I haven't read all the previous posts and comments regarding this unit but I felt it was a good option for me. Ron Caldwell rlcaldwell(at)uswest.net MAlexan533(at)aol.com wrote: > > Most of you have probably seen the ads for the new EXP bus for homebuilts, by > controlvision. It is supposed to be a complete electic system in one small > unit, with CB's, switches, the works, and is supposed to greatly reduce the > wiring job, especially for those of us using basic panels. Any opinions by the > experts? Bob? Or does anybody have one in use? It sounds like a great product. > Thanks. > Von Alexander > Might be sleeping on the street, but a least I will be at the BIG O! > MAlexan533(at)aol.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 28, 1998
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Bob - Opinion on EXP Bus?
> >I have the EXP- Bus installed in my 6A. It works great. I feel it did same me >some time in wiring the airplane. I tested the unit by deliberately over loading >some of the circuits to see if it worked as advertised. And it does. I haven't >read all the previous posts and comments regarding this unit but I felt it was a >good option for me. > >Ron Caldwell >rlcaldwell(at)uswest.net I'm pleased that you are satisfied with your purchase. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========= < If you continue to do > < What you've always done > < You will continue to be > < What you've always been. > ================================= <http://www.aeroelectric.com> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 28, 1998
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Solenoid Orientation
>Bob why don't you contact Aviat at their Pitts home page and ask them >this question. I'm sure they know more about this very question than >anyone and most of the news group would be interested in the answer. >Phil > >Robert D. Fitton wrote: >> >> >> There were a few posts some time back regarding the orientation of the >> continuous duty and the starter solenoids. As I recall, there was >> some concern that the solenoids would either open or close under elevated >> "G"s. >> I just searched the archives using key word "solenoid" but none of the >> titles returned seemed to be what I was looking for. I'm about to >> mount the continuous duty solenoid. Should I worry about G-loading? If there is ANY concerns for g-loading of contactors, it's for the starter contactor . . . the battery contactor is continuously closed in flight and once closed, you can't pry it open with a screwdriver! The starter contactors we recommend have their operating axis at right angles to all aerodynamically induced accelerations and are also immune from g-loading concerns. Sombody in a fully aerobatic aircraft stuck a starter contactor a few years back and did some damage to starter and ring gear. Since that time, the incident has taken on huge significance of its own. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========= < If you continue to do > < What you've always done > < You will continue to be > < What you've always been. > ================================= <http://www.aeroelectric.com> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 28, 1998
From: Mike Denman <mikedenman(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Solenoid Orientation
I wonder if this is being "over hyped". While the RV's are aerobatic, not many are going to see the G's that an Extra 300 or Pitts will see. It would be interesting for someone to take a solenoid apart and measure the amount of force necessary to overcome the internal spring, measure the weight of the contactor and then determine the amount of G's necessary to activate the solenoid. I suspect that it is quite high. Other wise there would be a rash of solenoid engagements in Spam Cans during heavy turbulance. Bob, are you up to the challenge? Mike Denman RV6 Sweat the small shit. Pay attention to the details. Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: > > >Bob why don't you contact Aviat at their Pitts home page and ask them > >this question. > >> > >> There were a few posts some time back regarding the orientation of the > >> continuous duty and the starter solenoids. As I recall, there was > >> some concern that the solenoids would either open or close under elevated > >> "G"s. > Sombody in a fully aerobatic aircraft stuck a starter contactor a few > years back and did some damage to starter and ring gear. Since that time, > the incident has taken on huge significance of its own. > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 28, 1998
From: MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: unsubsribe PLEASE!!!!!
Poor Matt... :( Matt Dralle 925-606-1001 wrote: > I've unsubscribed you by hand. > > Matt > > >-------------- -- Moe Colontonio moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net Check out my RV-8 page at: http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe ________________________________________________________________________________
From: resteffe(at)dukeengineering.com
Date: Jul 28, 1998
Subject: RVers in England
Trish and I are going to England for vacation. She likes flower gardens, I like airplanes and we both like meeting people. Sure would like to meet some RV builders and flyers. We will be in England from about August 27 to September 6. Our plans are not definite, but we will start from London. After that -- don't know yet. We would rather visit pubs with friends than museums. Dick Steffens, Trish Flanagan, North Carolina RV-6, flying Pitts S1-11, welding fuselage resteffe@duke-energy.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 28, 1998
From: wayne bonesteel <wayneb(at)oakweb.com>
Subject: RV-4 CANOPY SKINS HELP
Dear RV'RS I have one of the later RV-4's and am installing the canopy. All looks well except the rear canopy skirts, the rear part that wraps around the rear of the canopy does not fit. The skin needs a double bend that will require stretch, shrink or cut. What have you guys/gals done regarding this problem. thanks for help. Wayne Bonesteel RV-4 canopy South lake Tahoe, CA. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 28, 1998
From: "Higgins, John J." <john_higgins(at)merck.com>
Subject: Pop rivet spec.
Neil - The nomenclature for blind fasteners is confusing at best - K&L Sales (http://www.klsales.com/) has a handy blind rivet cross reference chart that will answer your question re MD42BS rivets (and lots of others) - While it doesn't have info on the LP4-3's, I'm sure that a short E-Mail to Van's will give you this answer In addition, if this helps you, Emhart, the maker of the pop rivet line, offers a catalog download at (www.emhart.com/catalog/Default.htm) - this contains design details of their product line and has sections for several countries including the UK & US, Japan Hope this helps John Higgins RV-8 emp finished, waiting on QB > > Dear all, > I need to buy some extra pop rivets, namely MD42BS and > LP4-3, unfortunately I cannot find a supplier in the U.K. who recognises > these part numbers. > Does any one know of either alternative part numbers or the specification > of > these rivets, so that we may cross refer them. > > Thanks in advance > > Neil. > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Neil France" <nfrance(at)avnet.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Pop rivet spec.
Date: Jul 28, 1998
>Lordy, I wish we'd all stop calling them "pop" rivets. The technical name for >them, is "blind" rivets. Oh Lordy, .....not according to page 81 of Aircraft Spruce catalogue, page 66 of Light Aero Spares catalogue and best of all, George Orndorff (who is God in our house) calls 'em pop rivets, so that's near enough for me ! What's a junkyard dog?, brings to mind something you might buy from a local hardware store..........etc..........etc.. (just kidding) Regards Neil. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RBusick505(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 28, 1998
Subject: Re: Solenoid Orientation
There was a write up about this in the RVavator by Ken Scott (I think) of Van's Aircraft, about this happening to his personal RV. Anyway read all about it from the source, in the 16 years of the RVavator. Bob Busick RV-6 Fremont CA << I wonder if this is being "over hyped". While the RV's are aerobatic, not many are going to see the G's that an Extra 300 or Pitts will see. It would be interesting for someone to take a solenoid apart and measure the amount of force necessary to overcome the internal spring, measure the weight of the contactor and then determine the amount of G's necessary to activate the solenoid. I suspect that it is quite high. Other wise there would be a rash of solenoid engagements in Spam Cans during heavy turbulance. Bob, are you up to the challenge? Mike Denman RV6 >> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 28, 1998
Subject: Re: RV-6/6A Fuse Jig For Sale
From: rvsixer(at)Juno.com (michael d hilger)
Listers, The fuselage jig I had offered for sale has been sold. Thanks for the replies. Mike Hilger RV-6 N207AM Canopy stuff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com>
Subject: RV-4 CANOPY SKINS HELP
Date: Jul 28, 1998
I'm working on a 6A in the same area. I have pondered this as well. I think a metal shrinker is necessary to get a really good fit here with an aluminum skirt. I'm trying to locate a local one without making the purchase. Gary Fesenbek RV6A, Roanoke,Va Canopy ************************************************* * Gary Fesenbek * * Meridium Inc. * * (540) 344-9205 x112 * * gfesenbek(at)meridium.com * * http://www.meridium.com * ************************************************* > -----Original Message----- > From: wayne bonesteel [SMTP:wayneb(at)oakweb.com] > Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 1998 1:39 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: RV-4 CANOPY SKINS HELP > > > Dear RV'RS I have one of the later RV-4's and am installing the > canopy. > All looks well except the rear canopy skirts, the rear part that wraps > around the rear of the canopy does not fit. The skin needs a double > bend > that will require stretch, shrink or cut. > What have you guys/gals done regarding this problem. thanks for help. > > Wayne Bonesteel > RV-4 canopy > South lake Tahoe, CA. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 28, 1998
Subject: Re: Pop rivet spec.
POP RIVITS - BLIND RIVITS BAND AIDS - ADHESIVE STRIPS TOMATO - TOMOTO ALL THE SAME THOUGH NOT POLITICALLY CORRECT ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JNice51355(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 28, 1998
Subject: Re: Panel Screws
<< Stainless steel is either non-magnetic or weakly magnetic >> It would be easy to find out which. Just wrap wire around the screw, run some D-cell battery current through the wires for a few moments, then remove the wire from the screw and see if it attracts iron or steel. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 28, 1998
Subject: Re: RV-4 CANOPY SKINS HELP
Wyane, How they fit largely depends on how much is cut out at the fuse junction at the rear. This is where the canopy skirt contacts the fuse as it wraps around the back. I just slowly removed skirt material until they would lie down correctly. RVer273sb ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WBWard(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 28, 1998
Subject: Re: Pop rivet spec.
<< What's a junkyard dog?, brings to mind something you might buy from a local hardware store..........etc..........etc.. >> A "Junkyard Dog" is a partially completed RV-4 kit that I picked up from a friend of mine, that he needed to get off of a trailer he had purchased. At first inspection, as well as during susequent similar looks at the kit, I didn't see too much that couldn't be rebuilt, or replaced. When I started removing some of the rivets, I discovered someone had taken that "pop rivet" name seriously. Yes, they had been to the local hardware store. So far, I have determined that the entire Horizontal Stabilizer is scrap, and will have to be completely rebuilt from scratch. I got lucky and found a tail kit someone wanted to get rid of, the price was right, so I'm back on track. She isn't going to be a show stopper, but I do envision a safe and sturdy flying machine when I'm done with her. Hence the name was derived from the reclamation project. Hope you got all the information you needed regarding your blind fasteners (ahem-pop rivets) and you have found a source for them. Have a great time building your little fliver. Regards Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 28, 1998
From: "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall(at)ipass.net>
Subject: Re: Panel Screws
> >Stainless steel is either non-magnetic or weakly magnetic, I dont remember >which at the moment. Stainless screws should work fine in a panel as a >brass screw replacement. Hah! Having been a lurker for years, a subject on which I can *contribute*! 303 SS, which is the material of which most screws are made, is *very* weakly magnetic (FWIW, it's also not truly stainless). The magnetic properties are so weak as to be almost non-existent, and certainly not a factor in panel applications. J.C. Hassall RV-6 Builder Wannabe mailto:jhassall(at)ipass.net Blacksburg VA "The essence of character is doing what's right, even when nobody's looking." -- J.C. Watts ________________________________________________________________________________
From: YBoulais1(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 28, 1998
Subject: Re: Solenoid Orientation
Complete RV-6 for sale or trade for RV-4. http://members.aol.com/yboulais1/RV-6.html> Call Yves at 803-689-9652 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert Bristol" <bbristol(at)intranet.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-4 CANOPY SKINS HELP
Date: Jul 28, 1998
-----Original Message----- From: Fesenbek, Gary <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com> Date: Tuesday, July 28, 1998 6:08 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-4 CANOPY SKINS HELP > >I'm working on a 6A in the same area. I have pondered this as well. I >think a metal shrinker is necessary to get a really good fit here with >an aluminum skirt. I'm trying to locate a local one without making the >purchase. > >Gary Fesenbek >RV6A, Roanoke,Va Canopy > Gary It will work well if you keep applying pressure, by hand, to form a compound curve as required to fit the rear skirts on your RV6A. It took 3 of us 2 evenings to work the skins by twisting and stretching the metal as required. I remember seeing a thread concerning this procedure after I had completed mine but am uncertain where I saw it. Incidentally I found that a metal shrinker will produce an uneven edge that is near impossible to conceal. Bob RV6A C-GCTZ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 28, 1998
From: derek reed <dreed(at)cdsnet.net>
Subject: Re: RVers in England
resteffe(at)dukeengineering.com wrote: > We will be in England from about August 27 to > September 6. Our plans are not definite, but we will start from > London. > After that -- don't know yet. > > Visit The Shuttleworth Collection. 2 Miles west of the A1 where it bypasses Biggleswade: approx. 30 miles from Junction 23 on M25.You will not be disappointed. Open daily 10.0am until 5.00pm April-Oct. last admission 4pm but you will need a full day. Derek Reed RV6A Oregon ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 28, 1998
From: "Elevator Technicians Inc." <elevator(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: remove from list, unsubscribe
remove from list, unsubscribe please remove my name from the list. thank you ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 28, 1998
From: pagan <pagan(at)CBOSS.COM>
Subject: My Webpage
Hi John, Glad to hear from someone so far away. Really amazing how easy it is to have a chat with someone halfway round the world. I like the "Rooster" idea. Might have to change my nickname. Hope your building is going well. Didn't say if you are building, but if you are I hope it is going well. I hope to keep adding to the webpage as the project develops so check back for updates. Heard from another fellow in Australia by the name of Peter Winter who lives in Victoria. He is also building an RV-8. Hope to hear from you again. Take care. Bill > > >Hi Bill, > >Cute!! We in Australia like giving nicknames to everyone - yours would >be Rooster as your the only guy in the hen house!! > >Looks like your making good progress on the RV8 - keep at it! > >John Morrissey > >-----Original Message----- >From: pagan [mailto:pagan(at)CBOSS.COM] >Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 1998 10:39 AM >To: rvlist(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: My Webpage > > > >Ok, here is my first feeble attempt at html publishing. Constructive >advice and compliments only please!:-) Hope you enjoy. > >
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Launchpad/9749/william.html > >We're off to Oshkosh, hope to see you there. > > >Bill Pagan >80555 >fuel tanks and such > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 28, 1998
From: Patrick Kelley <patk(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: Re: Pop rivet spec.
I must have missed the original post, but I recently had cause to try to get some more of those LP4-3s. After failing to locate them via the usual suspects, I called Vans. The answer that I was given is that Van had a source and that they weren't sure what would be a suitable replacement for them. You would probably get a different answer if you talked to them, especially if you could talk to Van. However, I was in a hurry, so I just ordered some more from them. PatK - RV-6A - Components actually moved to Chicagoland today! Higgins, John J. wrote: > > Neil - The nomenclature for blind fasteners is confusing at best - K&L Sales > (http://www.klsales.com/) has a handy blind rivet cross reference chart that > will answer your question re MD42BS rivets (and lots of others) - While it > doesn't have info on the LP4-3's, I'm sure that a short E-Mail to Van's will > give you this answer > > In addition, if this helps you, Emhart, the maker of the pop rivet line, > offers a catalog download at (www.emhart.com/catalog/Default.htm) - this > contains design details of their product line and has sections for several > countries including the UK & US, Japan ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 28, 1998
From: Tom Craig-Stearman <tcraigst(at)ionet.net>
Subject: Re: RV-4 CANOPY SKINS HELP
Wayne, I also have an RV-4. I did have to shrink the canopy side skirts around the forward edge, but not the aft edge. Back there the fit is determined by two factors: the decreasing lip bent into the edge that laps over the canopy plastic and trimming along the edge that lies against the fuselage skin. Just take it slowly. I used the 3/4" roller tool that Avery sells. I rolled the edge a few inches past each rivet location, then determined the trim length required, then trimmed the lower edge, then drilled the rivet hole. Repeat for each rivet location. It turned out well except for one gotcha. The skin is pulled down much tighter with the pop rivets than with the clecos. After riveting the skin I discovered I had a gap at the extreme aft edge where the skirt now pulled up 1/16" from the fuse skin. Rats. Good luck, Tom Craig-Stearman tcraigst(at)ionet.net RV-4 64ST installing rear seat heat vent > >Dear RV'RS I have one of the later RV-4's and am installing the canopy. >All looks well except the rear canopy skirts, the rear part that wraps >around the rear of the canopy does not fit. The skin needs a double bend >that will require stretch, shrink or cut. >What have you guys/gals done regarding this problem. thanks for help. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WBWard(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 28, 1998
Subject: Re: Panel Screws
<< Stainless steel is either non-magnetic or weakly magnetic >> What I wanted to say, before my computer so rudely sent a message that I hadn't properly prepared, was that iron and steel have carbon in them. Stainless, or (CRS) corrosion resistant steel, has "most" of the carbon removed. I say "most," because it isn't possible to remove it all, and still call it steel. Most CRS is considered "nonferrous" material, because of the fact that its magnetic qualities are not real high. It still has some, but they aren't real high. Brass instrument screws have "no" carbon in them at all. Because of this, they are considered to be totally nonferrous. Kind of like aluminum. Brass instrument screws are considerably "softer" than is the brittle stainless steel. Brass screws are nonmagnetic, and they can cause less damage to threaded instruments than can brittle stainless steel screws. I think that this is some of the primary reasons that they are used. Regards Wendell WBWard(at)AOL.COM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 29, 1998
From: Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU>
Subject: RV-4 CANOPY SKINS HELP
.com> > >I'm working on a 6A in the same area. I have pondered this as well. I >think a metal shrinker is necessary to get a really good fit here with >an aluminum skirt. I'm trying to locate a local one without making the >purchase. > >Gary Fesenbek >RV6A, Roanoke,Va Canopy Gary and others, I think you can do a good job in this area without needing a metal shrinker. The things that I found useful were: 1. Mylar sheet. Get yourself some sheets of Mylar from your local office supplies shop. This stuff does not stretch, anywhere you can get Mylar to fit you can get aluminum to follow. 2. Cut off the plexi close behind the rear canopy rail. The longer you make this overhang the more you define a plane for the canopy skirt. If the plane aint quite right you are in trouble. Then shave the top of the plexi so that a straight edge lays from the rear edge of where the canopy skirt will be on the turtle deck to the rivet line of the rear canopy frame. 3. Multiple iterations. I think I made about three sets of Mylar skirts before I was happy and my first transfer to aluminum wasn't quite right either. 4. Buy one of GVs little doo-hickeys to cover the canopy rail. I spent a weekend making six of these and the one I riveted on still gives me indigestion (bondo will fix it I think). 5. When your skirts are made you will tend to have some pieces of the leading edge that stand up 1/32 to a max of 1/16. A good roll around with the Avery edge rolling tool handled this nicely for me. Hope this helps Leo Davies (trying to make my rats nest of panel wiring look tidy) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Questions I could never Ask
Date: Jul 28, 1998
From: "William H. Watson" <wmwatson(at)earthlink.net>
Since the list is down to a readable level, with all the people at Oshkosh.... Questions I could never ask: 1) What primer do you REALLY use? (Admit that your interior is a bare as a baby's bum.) 2) Would you fly over a school with a Chevy Vortec up front? 3) Would peanut butter work as well as Pro-seal? 4) I've riveted my cat in the wing. Will it upset the trim? 5) Could I set my RV6 spar rivets with a Jackhammer (my brother-in-law works construction)? 6) I thinking of replacing my wife with an extra fuel tank. Any recommendations? 7) Is an O-320 with a cut down prop better than an O-360 with a Warp Drive prop? 8) If I mount the Navaid wing leveler in the engine compartment; would there be any cross coupling with the mixture control? 9) Is it true that Quickbuild kits, if not rigged properly, have a tendency to fly back to Van's? and 10) Does Van have a secret Swiss bank account and why do his employees pay to work there? Please let me know your answers soon or I'll sell my 6 and order an Europa. William H. Watson wmwatson(at)earthlink.net H: 650 254-1656 W: 408 553-4225 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 28, 1998
From: Joe Larson <jpl(at)showpg.mn.org.showpg.mn.org>
Subject: Tank Fittings
Hey, Gang -- I just started working on my fuel tanks. I've noticed something I don't think I like. The fuel pickup fittings appear to attach without washers -- just the bulkhead-L-fitting on one side of the access plate, and a single nut on the other side. No washer seems strange. To make it worse, you can't get the fitting tight this way -- there's quite a bit of slop after the nut runs out of threads on that strange fitting. What's the deal? I *must* be doing something wrong. Furthermore, it looks like the L-fitting for the vent line just attaches to the rib with no doubler or anything. This seems like it might be a bit flimsy. Comments? Thanks. -Joe ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 28, 1998
From: Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Tank Fittings
Joe Larson wrote: > > > Hey, Gang -- > > I just started working on my fuel tanks. I've noticed something I don't > think I like. The fuel pickup fittings appear to attach without washers -- > just the bulkhead-L-fitting on one side of the access plate, and a single > nut on the other side. > > No washer seems strange. To make it worse, you can't get the fitting > tight this way -- there's quite a bit of slop after the nut runs out of > threads on that strange fitting. > > What's the deal? I *must* be doing something wrong. > > Furthermore, it looks like the L-fitting for the vent line just attaches > to the rib with no doubler or anything. This seems like it might be a bit > flimsy. Comments? > > Thanks. > > -Joe > Joe, The Frank Justice notes have you make "washers" out of scrap aluminum. Your right, they won't tighten otherwise. Ed Cole RV6A Fuse Skins ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 29, 1998
Subject: Re: Panel Screws
<< Most CRS is considered "nonferrous" material, because of the fact that its magnetic qualities are not real high. It still has some, but they aren't real high.>> Corrosion resistant steels are in fact ferrous (Fe on the Periodic Table) by definition because they contain Iron. << Brass instrument screws have "no" carbon in them at all. Because of this, they are considered to be totally nonferrous. Kind of like aluminum. >> Once again no iron, non-ferrous. Carbon has zip to do with it. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 29, 1998
Subject: Re: RV-4 CANOPY SKINS HELP
<< 4. Buy one of GVs little doo-hickeys to cover the canopy rail. I spent a weekend making six of these and the one I riveted on still gives me indigestion (bondo will fix it I think). >> Leo- Do you mean that you are going to suffer with that piece of crap rather than pay the postage to send one of my handy dandy RV-6/6A canopy skirt caps to OZ? For shame. You should get your boys together over there and order a gross. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Questions I could never Ask
From: lewy2(at)Juno.com (James I Lewis)
Date: Jul 29, 1998
writes: > > >Since the list is down to a readable level, with all the people at >Oshkosh.... > >Questions I could never ask: > >1) What primer do you REALLY use? (Admit that your interior is a bare >as >a baby's bum.) Why use a primer at all? Thats what the accelerator pump is for! > >2) Would you fly over a school with a Chevy Vortec up front? Yes, Kids are people too! > >3) Would peanut butter work as well as Pro-seal? No, It melts in your mouth, so it will in the tank! > >4) I've riveted my cat in the wing. Will it upset the trim? This will not be a problem in time. Dust to dust and so on. > >5) Could I set my RV6 spar rivets with a Jackhammer (my brother-in-law > >works construction)? This will upset your trim as it may deform the spars somewhat. > >6) I thinking of replacing my wife with an extra fuel tank. Any >recommendations? Simply devide her weight by 6 and thats how many more gallons you can add. > >7) Is an O-320 with a cut down prop better than an O-360 with a Warp >Drive prop? The O-320 is the best engine around. I happen to have a Colin Walker 68X76 for sale to fit it (160 HP) $450 if sold before I buy High compression pistons for mine. Cut it down if you like. > >8) If I mount the Navaid wing leveler in the engine compartment; would > >there be any cross coupling with the mixture control? If cross coupling occures you end up with a highbred. > >9) Is it true that Quickbuild kits, if not rigged properly, have a >tendency to fly back to Van's? > >and > >10) Does Van have a secret Swiss bank account and why do his employees > >pay to work there? This is not a subject that I'm expertise in. > >Please let me know your answers soon or I'll sell my 6 and order an >Europa. > >William H. Watson >wmwatson(at)earthlink.net >H: 650 254-1656 >W: 408 553-4225 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 28, 1998
From: Randy Simpson <airtime(at)proaxis.com>
Subject: Re: Instrument screws
Bob and List, Another alternative to all the excellent options I've seen on this instrument screw thread is TITANIUM screws. The Ultimate remedy, in my opinion... Check out my best friend's web page, an answer to your problem (titanium contains no ferrous minerals, don't corrode, and are extremely light and strong) http://www.tiscruz.com There is a toll free phone # there you can use to order the titanium screws. Good people, and excellent quality screws (made on a swiss CNC machine) Randy Simpson Airtime Mfg. wannabe RV owner Brownsville, OR > >Does anyone know where to buy small mounting instrument screws? These >would be black oxide on brass. In particular, I'm looking for 4-40 in >several lengths. The smallest I've been able to find are 6-32. ACS ----------snip------------ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Neil France" <nfrance(at)avnet.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Questions I could never Ask
Date: Jul 29, 1998
>Please let me know your answers soon or I'll sell my 6 and order an >Europa. > >William H. Watson Get some counselling quick, (it could be too late). ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 29, 1998
From: Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU>
Subject: Re: RV-4 CANOPY SKINS HELP
> > ><< 4. Buy one of GVs little doo-hickeys to cover the canopy rail. I spent a > weekend making six of these and the one I riveted on still gives me > indigestion (bondo will fix it I think). >> > >Leo- > >Do you mean that you are going to suffer with that piece of crap rather than >pay the postage to send one of my handy dandy RV-6/6A canopy skirt caps to OZ? > >For shame. You should get your boys together over there and order a gross. > >-GV > OK, You win, what's the damage for ten plus postage Leo ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: Tank Fittings
Date: Jul 29, 1998
Hi Joe, Actually you do need to make a washer to get these fittings to fit. At least that is what Frank Justice said. I cut my own washers out of aluminum scrap. I made them as thick as they needed to be to get a snug fit. Here is a tip for you. Make sure the L-fitting for the vent does not point down in the finished product. I hear that might work like the trap in your sink drains, that is, it could be a place for liquid (like overflowing gas) to collect and plug the vent. Steve Soule RV-6A fuselage upright and out of the jig! -----Original Message----- I just started working on my fuel tanks. I've noticed something I don't think I like. The fuel pickup fittings appear to attach without washers -- just the bulkhead-L-fitting on one side of the access plate, and a single nut on the other side. No washer seems strange. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pbennett(at)zip.com.au
Date: Jul 29, 1998
Subject: Re: Tank Fittings
> I just started working on my fuel tanks. I've noticed something I > don't think I like. The fuel pickup fittings appear to attach > without washers -- just the bulkhead-L-fitting on one side of the > access plate, and a single nut on the other side. > No washer seems strange. To make it worse, you can't get the > fitting tight this way -- there's quite a bit of slop after the nut > runs out of threads on that strange fitting. Vans now sells a washer for this purpose. Part no AN SPACER 4D for 1/4" OD tube fittings and AN SPACER 6D for 3/8". Both $0.20 ea. Chech the new Accessories Catalog under Hardware P48. Peter Bennett Sydney Australia RV6 doing cowls ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com>
Subject: Questions I could never Ask
Date: Jul 29, 1998
>>4) I've riveted my cat in the wing. Will it upset the trim? Not if you rivet another cat into the other wing. If you need one please specify size and color desired and I'll send you one. Gary Fesenbek RV6A, Canopy ************************************************* * Gary Fesenbek * * Meridium Inc. * * (540) 344-9205 x112 * * gfesenbek(at)meridium.com * * http://www.meridium.com * ************************************************* ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rick & Barbara Osgood" <randbosgood(at)SprintMail.com>
Subject: Re: Questions I could never Ask
Date: Jul 29, 1998
-----Original Message----- From: William H. Watson <wmwatson(at)earthlink.net> Date: Tuesday, July 28, 1998 10:16 PM Subject: RV-List: Questions I could never Ask >Questions I could never ask: >1) What primer do you REALLY use? (Admit that your interior is a bare as >a baby's bum.) Since I spill bear and pop on everything and It never comes out I.m going with that... >2) Would you fly over a school with a Chevy Vortec up front? Sure, if you lose the engine you just circle into the autoshop and let all those 16 year olds have at it. >3) Would peanut butter work as well as Pro-seal? Yes, The drag from all the flys and bees stuck to the leading edge will only slow you by 2 - 3 knots. >4) I've riveted my cat in the wing. Will it upset the trim? Remeber that as you bank he will slide to the down side so you need to level out just a bit sooner. >5) Could I set my RV6 spar rivets with a Jackhammer (my brother-in-law works construction)? Nah, just stick em in and dab some Elmers on the ends. >6) I thinking of replacing my wife with an extra fuel tank. Any recommendations? Depends on which contains more gas. >7) Is an O-320 with a cut down prop better than an O-360 with a Warp Drive prop? Now you know that you are giving up the autoeject feature of the Warp Drive prop dont you... This makes your RV an instant glider. >8) If I mount the Navaid wing leveler in the engine compartment; would there be any cross coupling with the mixture control? Is this bad?? 9) Is it true that Quickbuild kits, if not rigged properly, have a tendency to fly back to Van's? No, they head for water and the nearest boat to Asia. >and > >10) Does Van have a secret Swiss bank account and why do his employees >pay to work there? It's realy a secret training ground for Cessna factory workers who cant figure out what they are doing wrong. >Please let me know your answers soon or I'll sell my 6 and order an >Europa. > >William H. Watson >wmwatson(at)earthlink.net >H: 650 254-1656 >W: 408 553-4225 > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fesenbek, Gary" <gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com>
Subject: RV-4 CANOPY SKINS HELP
Date: Jul 29, 1998
>>1. Mylar sheet. Get yourself some sheets of Mylar from your local office >>supplies shop. This stuff does not stretch, anywhere you can get Mylar to >>fit you can get aluminum to follow. That's a great idea on the mylar sheet. I'll have to try it. Anything to keep me from purchasing a metal shrinker. What do you 4 and 6 guys think about going with an aluminum strip on the front edge of the windscreen rather than epoxy? Gary Fesenbek RV6AQ, Roanoke, Va ************************************************* * Gary Fesenbek * * Meridium Inc. * * (540) 344-9205 x112 * * gfesenbek(at)meridium.com * * http://www.meridium.com * ************************************************* ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WoodardRod(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 29, 1998
Subject: Re: Questions I could never Ask
In a message dated 7/29/98 6:18:04 AM Mountain Daylight Time, gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com writes: > >>4) I've riveted my cat in the wing. Will it upset the trim? > > Not if you rivet another cat into the other wing. If you need one > please specify size and color desired and I'll send you one. > > Gary Fesenbek I nominate my neighbor's cat for this task. Heck, it seems like the cat is mine given that it craps in my backyard all the time... where did I put that BB gun? Rod Woodard The Great White Hunter ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 29, 1998
From: "Bradley Kidder, Jr." <sparksnmagic(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Questions I could never Ask
They also make great baffling to keep fuel stable in the wing tanks. > >In a message dated 7/29/98 6:18:04 AM Mountain Daylight Time, >gfesenbek(at)Meridium.com writes: > >> >>4) I've riveted my cat in the wing. Will it upset the trim? >> >> Not if you rivet another cat into the other wing. If you need one >> please specify size and color desired and I'll send you one. >> >> Gary Fesenbek > >I nominate my neighbor's cat for this task. Heck, it seems like the cat is >mine given that it craps in my backyard all the time... where did I put that >BB gun? > >Rod Woodard >The Great White Hunter > > > > BWKJ // signature // Bradley W. Kidder, Jr. ICQ# 11770815 IMMEDIATE Email: 8887818195(at)skytel.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 28, 1998
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Solenoid Orientation
> >There was a write up about this in the RVavator by Ken Scott (I think) of >Van's Aircraft, about this happening to his personal RV. Anyway read all >about it from the source, in the 16 years of the RVavator. Been hearing these stories for years involving several kinds of aircraft, brands and part numbers of contactors . . . >I wonder if this is being "over hyped". While the RV's are aerobatic, not >many are going to see the G's that an Extra 300 or Pitts will see. It would be >interesting for someone to take a solenoid apart and measure the amount of >force necessary to overcome the internal spring, measure the weight of the >contactor and then determine the amount of G's necessary to activate the solenoid. I saw this done out at Cessna about 30 years ago . . . don't recall the numbers but there were no concerns for what were then RBM controls (and now Stancore) contactors used on THOUSANDS of Cessnas. >I suspect that it is quite high. Other wise there would be a rash of solenoid >engagements in Spam Cans during heavy turbulance. >Bob, are you up to the challenge? I may do that again sometime . . . when I feel like trashing a contactor but in the mean time, I believe it's better to design the problem out. E.g. deduce that (1) battery contactors are not affected, (2) no harm is done by transient closure of system crossfeed contactors, (3) no harm is done by transient closure of ground power contactors, and (4) it's EASY to purchase and use a starter contactor who's operational axis is normal to the mounting base. When mounted in the usual position on a vertical firewall, one's major concerns for transient closure are limited to contact with the ground during a tail-slide. Sooooooo, irrespective of the relevancy of the ol' hangar tales, the "problem" simply evaporates. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us>
Subject: Solenoid Orientation
Date: Jul 29, 1998
it's EASY to purchase and use a starter contactor who's operational axis is normal to the mounting base. When mounted in the usual position on a vertical firewall, one's major concerns for transient closure are limited to contact with the ground during a tail-slide. Bob, Are there any starter contactor brands or models that we should avoid? Thanks. Ken Harrill RV-6, fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 29, 1998
From: "Angel L. Torres" <lucho(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Ride to Oskosh
Hi, I'm looking for a ride to Oskosh from the Orlando FL. area, will share all expenses. Angel Torres at (407) 365-7629. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 29, 1998
From: Gil Alexander <gila(at)flash.net>
Subject: RV-4 CANOPY SKINS HELP
.com> > >What do you 4 and 6 guys think about going with an aluminum strip on the >front edge of the windscreen rather than epoxy? Gary, I did this per the description in one of last summer's RVators. I was pleasantly surprised how easy and quick it was to make. The results were better than I expected, and I threw away my epoxy/glass fairing. The metal trim is better on the tip-up canopy due to the smaller distance that a glass fairing can be 'blended' in at the front with the later canopy plexi (due to the 'split' where the canopy raises. I did initially try a version with 0.025 sheet, but 0.032 gave a much nicer part, and was actually easier to work with and form. I used the standard 2024-T3. ...Gil (I don't hate glass, but metal was better) Alexander > >Gary Fesenbek >RV6AQ, >Roanoke, Va mailto:gila(at)flash.net Gil Alexander, Los Angeles, CA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JNice51355(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 29, 1998
Subject: Re: Questions I could never Ask
<< I'll sell my 6 and order an Europa. >> Now "there" is a joke for you!!! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 29, 1998
Subject: Re: Aeroflash Strobes
This from Paul Messinger reposted from the Kitfox List: << Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: snip > I'll invite you to be first. Would you like to do a one-pager on the > AeroFlash issue? I'll set up a directory and add the links to our > home page. I'll also publish a first crack at a policy statement > and see if we can entice people to join in the battle to expose > crappy business practices.>> I agree. No one presently at Aeroflash has the info and/or is willing to talk. I have left my name and hopefully the President will call soon. She is at OSH this week. I have the latest Chief catalog that has a big section on Aeroflash but they refused to discuss FAR compliance other than "call Aeroflash". At this point I have no "official" output power but clearly something smells. The person I talked to at Aeroflash was very concerned that I was associated with the EAA (all I said was I was an EAA Technical Counselor) and insisted the president was the only person who could respond to my question "are your strobes approved for use on certified acft?". What is so complex about this if the units meet the requirements? It looks like we may have hit a hornets nest here. The local FAA says no way can (or will) they approve "less than FAR specified power", but they rely on the builder to know the regs and install legal ones. This, like everything else, falls back on the builder. If the builder slips up, or gets fooled as as it seems to be in the case of Aeroflash, His insurance is likely void (per Avemco) as the acft is not airworthy with "non compliance strobes" (per the local FAA). I expect this to take a week or so as I want something in writing from Aeroflash if at all possible. Paul Messinger>> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ACCPILOT(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 29, 1998
Subject: Re: Questions I could never Ask
I think you forgot to ask about if a tail dragger is better then a nose dragger!! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 29, 1998
Subject: Re: Questions I could never Ask
Save yourself a few grand and use the cat as a wing leveler, but make sure your lightning holes go from one wing tip to the other ________________________________________________________________________________
From: resteffe(at)dukeengineering.com
Date: Jul 29, 1998
Subject: RV-4 CANOPY SKINS HELP
>What do you 4 and 6 guys think about going with an aluminum strip on the >front edge of the windscreen rather than epoxy? Gary, I made the fairings for my tip-up out of 0.032 aluminum 3003 (5052 would work well also). I think it is easier than fiberglass. I also made the intersection fairings for the tail out of metal. Got a good fit and it looks like the rest of the airplane. The cowl and wheel pants - that's a bit much for metal, although not out of the question. Mine are fiberglass though. Tap tap tap with the hammer on the dolly - doesn't take long. Give it a try. Dick Steffens RV-6, flying Pitts S1-11, welding fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 29, 1998
Subject: Re: Tank Fittings
<< Here is a tip for you. Make sure the L-fitting for the vent does not point down in the finished product. I hear that might work like the trap in your sink drains, that is, it could be a place for liquid (like overflowing gas) to collect and plug the vent. >> Maybe so, but my hunch is that gentle suction in the tanks from gas being consumed while the vent is not open could easily draw this fuel back into the tanks and "restore free breathing in as little as 30 seconds," just like on the commercial. Water in the vent line low point that froze would be a different matter altogether, though I have no clue how it might get there in the first place. It would start out in the bottom of the tank and would have quite a leap to get into the vent line. -BB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: donspawn(at)Juno.com
Subject: Re: Tank Fittings
Date: Jul 29, 1998
The fuel pickup fittings appear to attach without washers -- >just the bulkhead-L-fitting on one side of the access plate, and a >single nut on the other side. No washer seems strange. Joe: I made washers from Alumnum on both sides, I think> Don Jordan ~ 76DJ ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MICHAELT(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM
Date: Jul 29, 1998
Subject: Rudder V-blocks - Which?
Well I've been through the manual, the plans, the archives, Frank's notes, the "Bunny" (??) guide, and all the various web sites. I have five V-blocks that came with the emp kit, numbered 1 - 5 and varying in size. Which ones do I use - or does it matter - for the rudder? Maybe I'm particularly dense... while I write the question it occurs to me that whichever fits should do... but is there a right answer? *ack!* Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 Rudder, skin riveted, ready for skeleton. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 29, 1998
From: "Bradley Kidder, Jr." <sparksnmagic(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Reserved Tail Numbers
Somebody tell me where to start with the FAA to reserve a tail number for a freshly started RV-6A? BWKJ // signature // Bradley W. Kidder, Jr. ICQ# 11770815 URGENT MESSAGES: email pagekidder(at)bigfoot.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 29, 1998
From: Tom Craig-Stearman <tcraigst(at)ionet.net>
Subject: RV-4 CANOPY SKINS HELP
.com> >What do you 4 and 6 guys think about going with an aluminum strip on the >front edge of the windscreen rather than epoxy? I would prefer an aluminum fairing if I had the expertise to form one as easily as I can lay up a fiberglass part. Alas, I don't. Regards, Tom Craig-Stearman RV-4 64ST installing rear seat heat vent ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 29, 1998
From: Tom Craig-Stearman <tcraigst(at)ionet.net>
Subject: Re: Rudder V-blocks - Which?
Hey, what gives? My 1992 tail kit came with zero V-blocks! I had to make my own. I also had to walk to my shop uphill in the snow both ways. Tom Craig-Stearman RV-4 64ST's builder, pouting at the proliferation of kit improvements since he bought his >I have five V-blocks that came with the emp kit, numbered 1 - 5 and >varying in size. Which ones do I use - or does it matter - for the >rudder? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 29, 1998
From: Richard Bibb <rbibb(at)fore.com>
Subject: Re: Reserved Tail Numbers
> >Somebody tell me where to start with the FAA to reserve a tail number for a >freshly started RV-6A? > http://www.mmac.jccbi.gov/afs/afs700/afs750.html This site will allow you to do it online.... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 29, 1998
From: "Owens" <owens(at)Aerovironment.com>
Subject: Reserved Tail Numbers
Brad, Search the archive for "n number" and you will get all the info you need. Look for one dated may 17th, 96 from herman Dierks. It's very good. Laird RV-6 mounting the gear legs in SoCal From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Wed, Jul 29, 1998 12:25 PM Subject: RV-List: Reserved Tail Numbers Somebody tell me where to start with the FAA to reserve a tail number for a freshly started RV-6A? BWKJ // signature // Bradley W. Kidder, Jr. ICQ# 11770815 URGENT MESSAGES: email pagekidder(at)bigfoot.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Strong, Colin" <colin.strong(at)intel.com>
Subject: Rudder V-blocks - Which?
Date: Jul 29, 1998
My set of plans had the V-block numbers printed on the diagram of how to set them up, you know, spacing and such. As I recall it was the same page as the fluting layout. Colin Strong RV6 #25216 Wing Skeletons now out of the closet. Well I've been through the manual, the plans, the archives, Frank's notes, the "Bunny" (??) guide, and all the various web sites. I have five V-blocks that came with the emp kit, numbered 1 - 5 and varying in size. Which ones do I use - or does it matter - for the rudder? Maybe I'm particularly dense... while I write the question it occurs to me that whichever fits should do... but is there a right answer? *ack!* Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 Rudder, skin riveted, ready for skeleton. | | | | | | ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 29, 1998
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Aeroflash Strobes
> No one presently at Aeroflash has the info and/or is willing to talk. I > have left my name and hopefully the President will call soon. She is at > OSH this week. I have the latest Chief catalog that has a big section on > Aeroflash but they refused to discuss FAR compliance other than "call > Aeroflash". > > I expect this to take a week or so as I want something in writing from > Aeroflash if at all possible. > > Paul Messinger>> We'll wait patiently . . . but not holding our breath. BTW, speaking of bureaucratic snafu's, it's been about 3.5 months since Head FSDO hizzelf told Bill B at S-n-F that the charges would be dropped and that B&C should receive a letter of appology . . . to date, no additional word from our guardian angels in Washington. Guess what Bill is going to ask the administrator next Sunday? Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========= < If you continue to do > < What you've always done > < You will continue to be > < What you've always been. > ================================= <http://www.aeroelectric.com> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 29, 1998
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Solenoid Orientation
>Are there any starter contactor brands or models that we >should avoid? Actually, I don't KNOW of any. Given that tens of thousands of Pipers and Cessnas are flying around with the ol' RPM/Stancore el-cheepo contactors in them, I'll suggest that even these devices are unlikely to have a g-loading problem in a point-A-to-point- B travel machine. Starter contactors having two studs coming out from the top of the cylinder as opposed to the sides is the style I'm suggesting is immune from normal g-loading. I just shot a picture of one from our inventory and put it on the website at <http://www.aeroelectric.com/strtrctr.jpg> Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========= < If you continue to do > < What you've always done > < You will continue to be > < What you've always been. > ================================= <http://www.aeroelectric.com> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 29, 1998
From: Don Hyde <hyde(at)bcl.net>
Subject: Rudder V-blocks - Which?
I called Van's with this same question and Tom Green sort of groaned, and said "It's right there on page ...". I forget what page number it is, but it's the one with the fluting diagrams. It's a tiny inset in the upper left corner, so after I found it I didn't feel quite so dumb any more... There's also a sketch in the attachments to the assembly directions, but I don't think it gives any clue as to which one is which. > >Well I've been through the manual, the plans, the archives, Frank's >notes, the "Bunny" (??) guide, and all the various web sites. > >I have five V-blocks that came with the emp kit, numbered 1 - 5 and >varying in size. Which ones do I use - or does it matter - for the >rudder? > >Maybe I'm particularly dense... while I write the question it occurs >to me that whichever fits should do... but is there a right answer? >*ack!* > >Mike Thompson >Austin, TX >-6 Rudder, skin riveted, ready for skeleton. Don Hyde Quincy, IL 6A, Building! VS done, Working on rudder. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 29, 1998
Subject: Re: Tank Fittings
<< << Here is a tip for you. Make sure the L-fitting for the vent does not point down in the finished product. I hear that might work like the trap in your sink drains, that is, it could be a place for liquid (like overflowing gas) to collect and plug the vent. >> Maybe so, but my hunch is that gentle suction in the tanks from gas being consumed while the vent is not open could easily draw this fuel back into the tanks and "restore free breathing in as little as 30 seconds," just like on the commercial. >> Not really. More than likely some fuel will remain in the trap and air will just "bubble" thru as the suction gets great enough as the fuel is pumped out of the tank. This still represents an obstruction (albeit a slight one) to full fuel flow and should be designed out. Another physical principle will attempt to clear the fuel from the trap but it would fill again each time fuel overflowed into the vent line (in turbulence or by overfilling). Pressure builds in the tank when it is partially empty and gets heated by the sun while sitting on the ramp. The vapor pressure builds behind the trap (in the tank) and then, poof, just like Old Faithful it erupts out the vent on the belly. Once again the trap may be clear. Try not to build in potential problems or fight father physics, as he never sleeps. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 29, 1998
From: <usethe800number(at)mailexcite.com>
Subject: Search Engines
I saw your listing on the internet. I work for a company that submits websites to search engines. We can submit your website to over 350 of the worlds best search engines and directories for a one time charge of only $39.95. If you would like to put your website in the fast lane and receive more traffic call me on our toll-free number listed below. All work is verified! Sincerely, Mike Davidson (800) 484-2621 X5568 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 30, 1998
From: jerry parr <parravion(at)mcmail.com>
Subject: Questions - and answers...
William Don't ever mention Eur*pas again on this list or you will be de-scribed forever. Remember what the man said "Friends Don't Let Friends Fly Plastic Aeroplanes..!" Incidentally, could you put next-doors cat in the other wing to balance Cat #1 out. Concerning wife replacement: has the fuel tank yet been invented that can iron shirts...(female list reader) (oops! someone was reading over my shoulder...) Anyone with a QB kit ought to return it to Van's on the grounds of cheating! Jerry (and Frankie) Parr Peterborough, England RV-6 G-RVVI Cowlings and Fairings and Things ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Tank Fittings
Date: Jul 29, 1998
What GV describes is probably what I've seen on several RVs with "burping" vents, including one on my first -6A. Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA >Another physical principle will attempt to clear the fuel from the trap but it >would fill again each time fuel overflowed into the vent line (in turbulence >or by overfilling). Pressure builds in the tank when it is partially empty >and gets heated by the sun while sitting on the ramp. The vapor pressure >builds behind the trap (in the tank) and then, poof, just like Old Faithful it >erupts out the vent on the belly. Once again the trap may be clear. > >Try not to build in potential problems or fight father physics, as he never >sleeps. > >-GV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV8 fuse jig bill of materials
Date: Jul 29, 1998
Greetings fellow -8 builders, After just finishing the construction of my RV-8 fuselage jig, I thought I would share the bill of materials that worked well for me, since there is none to be found on the plans or in the manual. Qty: Size material: 6 1x4x10' 10 2x4x8' studs...STRAIGHT ones 2 2x6x10 straight on at least one edge 2 2x6x8 " " " " " " 1 small box of 2.5" coarse drywall screws 1 small box of 1.5" coarse drywall screws 1 bag assorted hardware for mounting jig legs to floor, depending upon your shop floor construction. (I used concrete anchors through 90 degree galvanized brackets). My total bill was around $70 at Home Depot. I butt-joined the 2x6's with splice plates of the same material, and cut about two feet off the ends to make the 16 foot overall length side rails. I had very little scrap left over. I hope this helps you folks nearing this stage of construction. Brian Denk RV-8 #379 Leveling fuse jig. Man, who poured this slab, anyway?? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "emrath" <emrath(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Rudder V-blocks - Which?
Date: Jul 29, 1998
Try looking at Drawing 8PP in the upper left hand corner, mine indicates VB1 and VB2 for the Rudder ("V"Block 1 and 2). Happy Riveting. -----Original Message----- From: MICHAELT(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM <MICHAELT(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM> Date: Wednesday, July 29, 1998 1:26 PM Subject: RV-List: Rudder V-blocks - Which? > >Well I've been through the manual, the plans, the archives, Frank's >notes, the "Bunny" (??) guide, and all the various web sites. > >I have five V-blocks that came with the emp kit, numbered 1 - 5 and >varying in size. Which ones do I use - or does it matter - for the >rudder? > >Maybe I'm particularly dense... while I write the question it occurs >to me that whichever fits should do... but is there a right answer? >*ack!* > >Mike Thompson >Austin, TX >-6 Rudder, skin riveted, ready for skeleton. > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 29, 1998
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)traveller.com>
Subject: Re: Reserved Tail Numbers
You may find the following info compiled by Gil Alexander and presented by yours truly to be helpful: http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6/register.html This page contains all the info necessary for registering your RV. Sam Buchanan sbuc(at)traveller.com "The RV Journal" http://www.ath.tis.net/~sbuc/rv6 Bradley Kidder, Jr. wrote: > > > Somebody tell me where to start with the FAA to reserve a tail number for a > freshly started RV-6A? > > BWKJ > // signature // > Bradley W. Kidder, Jr. > ICQ# 11770815 > URGENT MESSAGES: email > pagekidder(at)bigfoot.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 29, 1998
From: jerry calvert <calverjl(at)flash.net>
Subject: Re: Rudder V-blocks - Which?
MICHAELT(at)AUSVMR.VNET.IBM.COM wrote: > > > Well I've been through the manual, the plans, the archives, Frank's > notes, the "Bunny" (??) guide, and all the various web sites. > > I have five V-blocks that came with the emp kit, numbered 1 - 5 and > varying in size. Which ones do I use - or does it matter - for the > rudder? > > Maybe I'm particularly dense... while I write the question it occurs > to me that whichever fits should do... but is there a right answer? > *ack!* > > Mike Thompson > Austin, TX > -6 Rudder, skin riveted, ready for skeleton. > Hi Mike, Check out page 8PP of the plans in the upper lefthand corner. V-Block #1(VB-1) & V-Block #2(VB-2) are used for the rudder construction. It also gives the distance between the blocks. I scratched my head on this one too when I started the rudder. Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok -6a wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
Subject: Re: Questions I could never Ask
> > > Save yourself a few grand and use the cat as a wing leveler, but make sure > your lightning holes go from one wing tip to the other > > One question that didn't get asked is - do we cut lightning holes in the ribs so we can fly in the rain? > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MAlexan533(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 30, 1998
Subject: Re: RV8 fuse jig bill of materials
Listers; Another way to attach the fuse jig to the floor is to buy a .99 tube of Liquid Nails, and apply a fillet of it around each leg after leveling. Holds tight, and just scrapes up off the floor when done! Von Alexander RV-8#544 Installing seat structures, finish kit coming Sept 5th, leaving for Oshkosh today. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pbennett(at)zip.com.au
Date: Jul 30, 1998
Subject: Re: Tank Fittings
> 30 seconds," just like on the commercial. Water in the vent line > low point that froze would be a different matter altogether, though > I have no clue how it might get there in the first place. It would > start out in the bottom of the tank and would have quite a leap to > get into the vent line. It'd have to be spring water, Bill. Peter Bennett Sydney Australia RV6 doing cowls ________________________________________________________________________________
From: A20driver(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 30, 1998
Subject: Re: BIG DEAL
AvWeb will let you listen to the Osk sound provided you download the latest Real Player plus G2 for $29.95 which they let you think is free..The whole Osh98 report is nearly one big ad for the sponsors....JLB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVosberg(at)uhc.com
Subject: Re: Search Engines
Date: Jul 30, 1998
Are these engines Certified??? and if so, if I wanted to list my "Homebuilt Webpage" with these engines would they then be de-certified? Would I have to have my webpage maintained or modified by a "Licensed Webpage Developer" to retain certification???? Roy Vosberg Twin Cities RV-6 emp ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: RV-List: Search Engines I saw your listing on the internet. I work for a company that submits websites to search engines. We can submit your website to over 350 of the worlds best search engines and directories for a one time charge of only $39.95. Mike Davidson (800) 484-2621 X5568 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com
Date: Jul 30, 1998
Subject: surprising oil temp results
Last weekend I finished my annual, buttoned everything up and went off for a spin. After about 20 minutes I noticed that my oil temps have climbed up to 230 degrees. (at our altitudes we normally cruise at about 60% power; outside temps were less than 70) Not knowing what was wrong I landed and pulled the cowl, looking for anything that might have gone askew. All seemed OK except that as I was pulling the top cowl, I noticed that about 3" of the baffle seal material was flipped over the wrong direction. I couldn't imagine this would be a big deal, certainly not for a 50 degree difference. But, not finding anything else wrong, I replaced the cowl and flew again a couple days later. It turned out that was the problem. Temps went back to 180 degrees, which I still find warm for these conditions, but acceptable. I still find it hard to believe. 3" of baffle seal flipped the wrong way was worth 50 degrees in oil temps! This is now an everyday preflight item. Andy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 30, 1998
From: "John E. Musser" <jemusser(at)swbell.net>
Subject: Re: BIG DEAL
Actually, read the page... Realplayer G2 IS FREE FOR THE DOWNLOAD! It will play the feed just fine (for the 15 minutes per session that Avweb allows). Realplayer PLUS G2 is the expanded version that includes additional features. Not required for listening only to a feed. Regards; John (happy Realnetworks customer in spite of Bill Gates!!!) BTW, without sponsors, are you willing to fork out a portion of the costs to get the coverage? Frankly I've been thrilled with the level of coverage they're providing. Let the sponsors have their due... > >AvWeb will let you listen to the Osk sound provided you download the latest >Real Player plus G2 for $29.95 which they let you think is free..The whole >Osh98 report is nearly one big ad for the sponsors....JLB > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 30, 1998
From: Rob Rimbold <rimbold(at)ntr.net>
Subject: Re: BIG DEAL
A20driver(at)aol.com wrote: > AvWeb will let you listen to the Osk sound provided you download the latest > Real Player plus G2 for $29.95 which they let you think is free..The whole > Osh98 report is nearly one big ad for the sponsors....JLB Not true. There are two RealPlayer products currently on the RealPlayer website. The first, RealPlayer G2, is free. The second, RealPlayer Plus G2, is $29.95. You don't need RealPlayer G2, an older (also free) version of RealPlayer should also work. You don't even need to use RealPlayer at all. Microsoft's NetShow (available on Microsoft's website) will also play a RealAudio feed. I picked up the free RealPlayer G2, and have been listening to the OSH ATC broadcasts. Very entertaining.. one guy was going the wrong way in the pattern, lots of people like to land on the wrong marker.. -- -------- Rob Rimbold rimbold(at)ntr.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: AIRPLANEIT(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 30, 1998
Subject: MSP-OSH Response
With AOL, if you read an e-mail...it auto deletes after a couple days, but I have intended to respond to the person departing MSP in a 172 on the 3rd (his address got delelted with the e-mail). Is the offer still good? If so, you can contact me at airplaneit(at)aol.com or 651-714-5313 I would greatly appreciate it, and I intend to share expenses. -Nick Stolley Woodbury, MN so close to OSH, but so far away ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 30, 1998
From: Steve Dixon <sdixon(at)laker.net>
Subject: Gouge in rear spar
I am back on the list after a lengthy absence and have a question. As I was prepairing my top wing skins for riveting, I noticed a small gouge in the web of my rear spar about mid span. The gouge was about 1/4 inch long, but it's hard to say just how deep it was. I took a Scotchbrite wheel on a die grinder and polished out the area until there were no signs of the gouge resulting in a small depression about 1/2 by 5/8 inch. My question is how thin can that 1/2 by 5/8 be before I need to worry about the structural integrity of the spar? Steve Dixon Worried about my left wing RV-8 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: donspawn(at)Juno.com
Subject: Rudder V-blocks - Which?
Date: Jul 30, 1998
>I have five V-blocks that came with the emp kit, numbered 1 - 5 and >varying in size. Which ones do I use - or does it matter - for the >rudder? >Mike Thompson>Austin, TX>-6 Rudder, skin riveted, ready for skeleton. > goto your Pre-plans set & find Sk-6-4 ( last page) Don Jordan ~ 76DJ ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com lunch with a list of N# you would like. 3 They (FAA) only have access to what you can have. 4 They will search in real time & tell you what to request. Don Jordan ~ 76DJ ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 30, 1998
From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net>
Subject: Re: Gouge in rear spar
Steve Dixon wrote: > > My question is how thin can that 1/2 by 5/8 be before I need to worry about the structural integrity of the spar? Steve, You should be safe if the area is thinned no more than 10% of the material's thickness Charlie Kuss RV-8 wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 30, 1998
From: susan dawson <jollyd(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: Gouge in rear spar
I don't know about RV's, but better safe than sorry...at least think of a spar splice ala ac4313....jolly Steve Dixon wrote: > > I am back on the list after a lengthy absence and have a question. > > As I was prepairing my top wing skins for riveting, I noticed a small gouge > in the web of my rear spar about mid span. The gouge was about 1/4 inch > long, but it's hard to say just how deep it was. I took a Scotchbrite wheel > on a die grinder and polished out the area until there were no signs of the > gouge resulting in a small depression about 1/2 by 5/8 inch. My question is > how thin can that 1/2 by 5/8 be before I need to worry about the structural > integrity of the spar? > > Steve Dixon > Worried about my left wing > RV-8 > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 31, 1998
From: Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU>
Subject: Re: Gouge in rear spar
> >I am back on the list after a lengthy absence and have a question. > >As I was prepairing my top wing skins for riveting, I noticed a small gouge >in the web of my rear spar about mid span. The gouge was about 1/4 inch >long, but it's hard to say just how deep it was. I took a Scotchbrite wheel >on a die grinder and polished out the area until there were no signs of the >gouge resulting in a small depression about 1/2 by 5/8 inch. My question is >how thin can that 1/2 by 5/8 be before I need to worry about the structural >integrity of the spar? > >Steve Dixon >Worried about my left wing >RV-8 Steve, Your spar could almost certainly tolerate of hole of these dimensions in the web. What it wouldn't like is a source for crack propogation. If you sanded a gouge so much that you began to see daylight through the spar then you would have to deal with the edges of the hole that you had created so that they weren't "feathered" (infinitely thin edge). For polishing out a scratch if you have left more than 50% of the material thickness you will have no problem. Leo Davies 6A wiring ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 30, 1998
Subject: Re: Aeroflash Strobes
Reposted from the Kitfox List: << I sent an E-mail to my DAR and told him that I > was in the process of trying to get my money back from Lockwood for > the Aeroflash strobes. I told him it would help if he told me, he would "not" > certify their lights. No response yet. I did send Lockwood and > Aeroflash an E-mail requesting my money back. If that doesn't work, > I'll just send them back and have Master Card credit my account. I > had to do this once and Master Card is pretty good about that. Feel > free to use my situation and name on anything you do concerning this > matter. > > Don Smythe > I have tried several dealers (other than Lockwood as they are primed by you) to see what I can find out. I get concerned when I get evasive ans. even from the person at Aeroflash and no return call as promised from the Pres. of Aeroflash. Seems to me to be such a simple question (s). What is the output and are they approved for night VFR. Please let me know the Aeroflash model/part number of the system you have. They have many different part numbers and at least two that sound like what you have. I have a legal friend that would like to sturr the pot if there is fire beyond the smoke. I just need Aeroflash to give me something in writing to get started and or clarify things. You have doen a great service to all of experimental aviation with your posts on this subject. Paul Messinger>> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Thomas Gummo <tg1965(at)linkline.com>
Subject: wing alignment
Date: Jul 30, 1998
Working in the heat of the Californian desert, one has to keep the doors of the aircraft factory open (O.K. it is a garage). Fans also help. This has caused a problem as the plumb bobs like to swing the in breeze. This makes alinging the wings difficult. My partner, Wendell Hoatson, came up with a solution. He would like to sell any of you listeners a kit who might have the same problem. We think a hundred dollars would be about right. If it cost less, you might not think it is worth it. The kit contains two special containers (coffee cans) and a bottle of special fluid (water). You put the cans under plumb bobs and lengthed the cord to allow the plumb bob to hang into the can without touching anywhere. Next, you put the special fluid into the can until the plumb bob is about half under water. We have found that you can pull on the string and release it and instead of the plumb bob swinging, the string just snaps back in place. The only problem is that the fliud need to be replaced every couple of days here in the desert. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV4131rb(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 30, 1998
Subject: Re: Gouge in rear spar
<< The gouge was about 1/4 inch long, but it's hard to say just how deep it was. >> Scott, You need to find a way to messure the depth of the material removed. If you removed more than roughly 10% of the material thickness then you should consider installing a doubler to bring the spar back to original strength or stronger. Spars are definatly not an area you need weak spots in. Check the AC43:13 for limits and repairs. Ryan Bendure Co. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JNice51355(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 30, 1998
Subject: Re: wing alignment
<< We think a hundred dollars would be about right. >> Here you go. $100.00 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 31, 1998
From: Todd Latimer <todd(at)lis.net.au>
Subject: Re: Questions I could never Ask
Better yet, why not cut lightning holes in the skin of the wing, this will greatly reduce the weight of the aircraft, and reduce skin drag, as there will be less of it ;) cheers Todd > > > > >> >> >> Save yourself a few grand and use the cat as a wing leveler, but make sure >> your lightning holes go from one wing tip to the other >> >> > >One question that didn't get asked is - do we cut lightning holes in the ribs so >we can fly in the rain? > >> > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 30, 1998
From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net>
Subject: Re: wing alignment
Thomas, Here in South Florida we do the same thing, only we use oil instead of water. It solves that nasty evaporation problem. It also is a better damping agent. I usually use old ATF (automatic transmission fluid) I hope this post doesn't set off a flame war on whether Dexron or Type F is better! :-) Charlie Kuss RV-8 wings Boca Raton, Fl. >This has caused a problem as the plumb bobs like to swing the in breeze. This makes alinging the wings difficult. snipped > The kit contains two special containers (coffee cans) and a bottle of special fluid (water). You put the cans under plumb bobs and lengthed the cord to allow the plumb bob to hang into the can without touching anywhere. Next, you put the special fluid into the can until the plumb bob is about half under water. We have found that you can pull on the string and release it and instead of the plumb bob swinging, the string just snaps back in place. > The only problem is that the fliud need to be replaced every couple of days here in the desert. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terrence C. Watson" <tcwatson(at)pstbbs.com>
Subject: Re: Gouge in rear spar
Date: Jul 30, 1998
Steve, Your question deserves an answer from an engineer familiar with the design of the wing spar. In general, a gouge or defect in the flange would be far more troublesome than a similar defect in the web. The flange is taking the tension and compression loads; the web is often just holding the flanges in position and dealing with shear loads. The shear loads could be critical, but I suspect that they usually are not. That's why we often have lightening or access holes in the web, usually located near the center of it. This is a question I would try to get a response out of Van's structural engineer for, or perhaps another engineer familiar with the design and the location and nature of the defect. Please don't put too much confidence in unqualified opinions you get from us on the list. Some of us know what we are talking about; some of us don't. Terry RV-8 rudder Seattle > >As I was prepairing my top wing skins for riveting, I noticed a small gouge >in the web of my rear spar about mid span. The gouge was about 1/4 inch >long, but it's hard to say just how deep it was. I took a Scotchbrite wheel >on a die grinder and polished out the area until there were no signs of the >gouge resulting in a small depression about 1/2 by 5/8 inch. My question is >how thin can that 1/2 by 5/8 be before I need to worry about the structural >integrity of the spar? > >Steve Dixon >Worried about my left wing >RV-8 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 30, 1998
Subject: Re: Gouge in rear spar
<< My question is how thin can that 1/2 by 5/8 be before I need to worry about the structural integrity of the spar? >> Steve - where is the defect in terms of edge distance? It sounds like you have handled it in the best possible way, short of replacing the part. Can you get a Tech Counselor to eyeball it? I suspect any advice you get on this (even from Van) would have to be partly conjecture, since you are in unknown territory. No one ever tested a spar exactly like yours to destruction. Comforting thought, isn't it ;-) -Bill Boyd my spars weren't perfect, either. Makes you not want to yank and bank any rougher than necessary. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 30, 1998
From: susan dawson <jollyd(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: Gouge in rear spar
I also happened to think, If you polished out that spot, you could have possibly "work hardned" it.. I say again look to AC 4313....jolly Terrence C. Watson wrote: > > Steve, > > Your question deserves an answer from an engineer familiar with the design > of the wing spar. In general, a gouge or defect in the flange would be far > more troublesome than a similar defect in the web. The flange is taking the > tension and compression loads; the web is often just holding the flanges in > position and dealing with shear loads. The shear loads could be critical, > but I suspect that they usually are not. That's why we often have > lightening or access holes in the web, usually located near the center of > it. > > This is a question I would try to get a response out of Van's structural > engineer for, or perhaps another engineer familiar with the design and the > location and nature of the defect. Please don't put too much confidence in > unqualified opinions you get from us on the list. Some of us know what we > are talking about; some of us don't. > > Terry > RV-8 rudder > Seattle > > > > >As I was prepairing my top wing skins for riveting, I noticed a small gouge > >in the web of my rear spar about mid span. The gouge was about 1/4 inch > >long, but it's hard to say just how deep it was. I took a Scotchbrite wheel > >on a die grinder and polished out the area until there were no signs of the > >gouge resulting in a small depression about 1/2 by 5/8 inch. My question is > >how thin can that 1/2 by 5/8 be before I need to worry about the structural > >integrity of the spar? > > > >Steve Dixon > >Worried about my left wing > >RV-8 > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 30, 1998
From: Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: IO-360 For Sale
Listers, After purchasing a Velocity salvage aircraft in July, I find myself with two IO-360 engines :^) I had purchased an IO-360 from the MOD WORKS in FLa. last Nov. with the intention of running it for several hundred hrs. before overhauling it so as not to have to break in a new engine and a new airplane at the same time. So what I have for sale is.... 200 H.P. IO-360 A3B6D (This is the same engine as Steve Barnard has in his -6A and designed the "Howl Cowl" for) First Run 1418 hrs. Compression still in the low 70's. Purchased from the MOD Works 11/97 while still mounted on a Mooney M20J. Very well maintained engine and flown frequently. All logs and receipts available. Serious inquiries send me your snail mail address for a xerox copy of the log book. I also have an excel spreadsheet with a summary of log entries if you're in a hurry. I'm located in Cupertino, CA. which is near San Jose, CA., about 50 miles south of San Francisco. I will split shipping costs with buyer out of reasonable driving range. Cost to ship engine from Florida to California was $350 to give you an idea of shipping costs. Please contact me personally and not through the list. Ed Cole RV6A Fuse skins.. Cupertino, CA 408-257-3281 h 408-737-7600 x6605 w ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 30, 1998
From: Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: IO-360 For Sale
Listers, After purchasing a Velocity salvage aircraft in July, I find myself with two IO-360 engines :^) I had purchased an IO-360 from the MOD WORKS in FLa. last Nov. with the intention of running it for several hundred hrs. before overhauling it so as not to have to break in a new engine and a new airplane at the same time. So what I have for sale is.... 200 H.P. IO-360 A3B6D (This is the same engine as Steve Barnard has in his -6A and designed the "Howl Cowl" for) First Run 1418 hrs. Compression still in the low 70's. Purchased from the MOD Works 11/97 while still mounted on a Mooney M20J. Very well maintained engine and flown frequently. All logs and receipts available. Serious inquiries send me your snail mail address for a xerox copy of the log book. I also have an excel spreadsheet with a summary of log entries if you're in a hurry. I'm located in Cupertino, CA. which is near San Jose, CA., about 50 miles south of San Francisco. I will split shipping costs with buyer out of reasonable driving range. Cost to ship engine from Florida to California was $350 to give you an idea of shipping costs. Please contact me personally and not through the list. Ed Cole RV6A Fuse skins.. Cupertino, CA 408-257-3281 h 408-737-7600 x6605 w ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 30, 1998
From: Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: IO-360 For Sale
Sorry for the relisting, but I forgot to include the price. Listers, After purchasing a Velocity salvage aircraft in July, I find myself with two IO-360 engines :^) I had purchased an IO-360 from the MOD WORKS in FLa. last Nov. with the intention of running it for several hundred hrs. before overhauling it so as not to have to break in a new engine and a new airplane at the same time. So what I have for sale is.... 200 H.P. IO-360 A3B6D (This is the same engine as Steve Barnard has in his -6A and designed the "Howl Cowl" for) First Run 1418 hrs. Compression still in the low 70's. Purchased from the MOD Works 11/97 while still mounted on a Mooney M20J. Very well maintained engine and flown frequently. All logs and receipts available. Price is what I paid the MOD WORKS $9500 Serious inquiries send me your snail mail address for a xerox copy of the log book. I also have an excel spreadsheet with a summary of log entries if you're in a hurry. I'm located in Cupertino, CA. which is near San Jose, CA., about 50 miles south of San Francisco. I will split shipping costs with buyer out of reasonable driving range. Cost to ship engine from Florida to California was $350 to give you an idea of shipping costs. Please contact me personally and not through the list. Ed Cole RV6A Fuse skins.. Cupertino, CA 408-257-3281 h 408-737-7600 x6605 w ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WBWard(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 30, 1998
Subject: Re: Aeroflash Strobes
<< I have tried several dealers (other than Lockwood as they are primed by you) to see what I can find out. I get concerned when I get evasive ans. even from the person at Aeroflash and no return call as promised from the Pres. of Aeroflash. Seems to me to be such a simple question (s). What is the output and are they approved for night VFR. >> Welcome to my world. I work in the "cert." industry, and we get the same answers. Regards Wendell ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
Date: Jul 29, 1998
Subject: Re: Tank Fittings
> > > Not really. More than likely some fuel will remain in the trap and air will > just "bubble" thru as the suction gets great enough as the fuel is pumped out > of the tank. This still represents an obstruction (albeit a slight one) to > full fuel flow and should be designed out. > > Another physical principle will attempt to clear the fuel from the trap but it > would fill again each time fuel overflowed into the vent line (in turbulence > or by overfilling). Pressure builds in the tank when it is partially empty > and gets heated by the sun while sitting on the ramp. The vapor pressure > builds behind the trap (in the tank) and then, poof, just like Old Faithful it > erupts out the vent on the belly. Once again the trap may be clear. > > Try not to build in potential problems or fight father physics, as he never > sleeps. > I can't argue with this logic. The thing is the RV vent has a trap by design. The vent inlet is at the outboard top edge of the tank. It then goes down to the wing root area before it starts up again. Not sure at all an additional inch or so down could make any appreciable difference. Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM RV-6Q Just installed my vent lines on the QB where the outlets point back, contrary to plans. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net>
Subject: Re: Tank Fittings
> Larry Pardue > Carlsbad, NM > > RV-6Q Just installed my vent lines on the QB where the outlets point back, > contrary to plans. > > May I ask a dumb question? If the vent line outlet faces backwards won't the air flow past them create a low pressure area at the outlet and suck the fuel out of the tank? This is what I was told at Arlington by quite a few finished RV owners. They said that the outlets need to face forward to create a pressure into the tanks and to offset any low pressure at the top of the tank caused by the engine sucking out fuel as you fly. I haven't installed my outlets yet and want to be sure just which way they really should be installed. I'd hate to run short of fuel at 6000"AGL :-) DGM RV-6 -- back on a building schedule now that I finally passed my PPL flight exam. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 31, 1998
From: "L. Coats" <lcoats(at)wave.co.nz>
Subject: Re: BIG DEAL
> > > >Actually, read the page... Realplayer G2 IS FREE FOR THE DOWNLOAD! It >will play the feed just fine (for the 15 minutes per session that Avweb >allows). > So where on the page is G2 available for free download? I cannot seem to find it. Louise L. Coats ZK-RVL RV6 flying :-) 272.8hr ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 31, 1998
Subject: Re: Gouge in rear spar
HEY EVERYONE ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 31, 1998
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: Re: BIG DEAL
Louise, I downloaded the free RealPlayer G2 yesterday and was listening to music on http://www.amazon.com. Just go to that address and click on the music button in the left window and put in one of your favorite artists names and then look for the RealPlayer download instructions on that page. Go to it then download the FREE RealPlayer G2 not the PLUS version for $29.95. Or better yet just go to http://www.real.com/products/player/index.html?src=downloadr and down load it. I just did all the search work for you. AL Col. Ohio , Emp & Wings. (Renewed my Res. # for the third time!) > >> >> >> >>Actually, read the page... Realplayer G2 IS FREE FOR THE DOWNLOAD! It >>will play the feed just fine (for the 15 minutes per session that Avweb >>allows). >> > >So where on the page is G2 available for free download? I cannot seem to >find it. > >Louise >L. Coats ZK-RVL RV6 flying :-) 272.8hr > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 31, 1998
From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net>
Subject: Re: BIG DEAL
Al & listers, I have Real Player 3.0 on my old 486SX2-50 machine. I tried to listen in using that, but it appears you need the latest & the greatest version to listen in. Before I waste my time doing that, what are the minimum hardware requirements for this newest version of Real Player? Thanks Charlie Kuss RV-8 wings > I downloaded the free RealPlayer G2 yesterday and was listening to music on > http://www.amazon.com. Just go to that address and click on the music > button in the left window and put in one of your favorite artists names and > then look for the RealPlayer download instructions on that page. Go to it > then download the FREE RealPlayer G2 not the PLUS version for $29.95. Or > better yet just go to > http://www.real.com/products/player/index.html?src=downloadr > and down load it. I just did all the search work for you. AL Col. Ohio , ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 31, 1998
From: Thomas Nguyen <TNGUYEN(at)oss.oceaneering.com>
Subject: Gouge in rear spar -Reply
Steve, I would not worry too much about the gouge IF it is located close to the center of the web (neutral axis). Keep in mind that the front spar is designed to take all the wing bending moments and the rear spar is to react the wing torsional loads. Therefore, even if you have a " diameter hole in the web close to the neutral axis, it does not degrade the structural integrity of the rear spar much. Just be sure to smooth everything out with a file so that you don't have any sharp edges in the area to allow for crack propagation. T. Nguyen, P.E. Analysis Engineering Manager RV-6A Fuselage (Friendswood, Texas). >>> Steve Dixon 07/30/98 02:07pm >>> I am back on the list after a lengthy absence and have a question. As I was prepairing my top wing skins for riveting, I noticed a small gouge in the web of my rear spar about mid span. The gouge was about 1/4 inch long, but it's hard to say just how deep it was. I took a Scotchbrite wheel on a die grinder and polished out the area until there were no signs of the gouge resulting in a small depression about 1/2 by 5/8 inch. My question is how thin can that 1/2 by 5/8 be before I need to worry about the structural integrity of the spar? Steve Dixon Worried about my left wing RV-8 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Tank Fittings
Date: Jul 31, 1998
From: n5lp <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
>> Larry Pardue >> Carlsbad, NM >> >> RV-6Q Just installed my vent lines on the QB where the outlets point back, >> contrary to plans. >> >> > > May I ask a dumb question? If the vent line outlet faces backwards won't >the air >flow past them create a low pressure area at the outlet and suck the fuel >out of the >tank? I was referring to the tank outlets. On the 6 plans I have the outlets on the bottom of the fuselage point down with a 45 degree slant ground on the front of the outlet fitting so that part of the hole is sort of exposed to the airstream. I notice many RV's have a tube bent into the airstream. Maybe that is the way the plans are on the 4. Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM Pacer N8025D RV-6Q N441LP Reserved Wiring & FWF ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: BIG DEAL
Date: Jul 31, 1998
>Al & listers, >I have Real Player 3.0 on my old 486SX2-50 machine. I tried to listen in >using that, but it appears you need the latest & the greatest version to >listen in. Before I waste my time doing that, what are the minimum >hardware requirements for this newest version of Real Player? Thanks >Charlie Kuss >RV-8 wings Charlie, I downloaded it yesterday, and recall seeing the minimum hardware requirements to be a Pentium class machine, 100mhz or greater, 32meg RAM, 28.8 modem, the usual specs. I have a 90mhz machine, but haven't been able to get the player to connect with my ISP for some silly reason. Great...all I need...computer glitches and I have an airplane to build here! Ahhh..the humanity. It took about 20 minutes to download the program on a regular analog modem connection. Brian Denk, Intel Corporation. (sorry, no discounts) RV8 #379 fuse jig done..back to actually working on AIRPLANE parts! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 31, 1998
From: rimbold <rimbold(at)ntr.net>
Subject: Re: BIG DEAL
>> I have Real Player 3.0 on my old 486SX2-50 machine. I tried to >> use that, but it appears you need the latest & the greatest version >> to listen in. What are the minimum hardware requirements for this >> newest version of Real Player? Thanks >> Charlie Kuss > >RV-8 wings > I downloaded it yesterday, and recall seeing the minimum hardware > requirements to be a Pentium class machine, 100mhz or greater, 32meg > RAM, 28.8 modem, the usual specs. Before I got my fast computer set up yesterday, I was using it on a 486DX4 75MHz laptop. It worked fine for audio-only broadcasts, like the OSH ATC, but was too slow to give smooth video (which isn't part of the OSH broadcast). Minimum requirements for software are often a matter of opinion. :-) -- -------- Rob Rimbold rimbold(at)ntr.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 31, 1998
From: Todd Whelan <twhelan(at)f22l11.mar.lmco.com>
Subject: Re: wing alignment
Thomas Gummo wrote: > > You put the cans under plumb bobs and lengthed the cord to allow the plumb bob to hang into the can without touching anywhere. Next, you put the special fluid into the can until the plumb bob is about half under water. We have found that you can pull on the string and release it and instead of the plumb bob swinging, the string just snaps back in place. Outstanding... I'd like to see this little trick show up in the RVator. We'd all send off a check for $100 before we actually -used- it, of course of course. Todd Whelan RV-8 #554 oh so slowly in Atlanta (the special fluid actually FALLS FROM THE SKY out here) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 31, 1998
From: Don Hyde <hyde(at)bcl.net>
Subject: Re: Questions I could never Ask
The part I never understood is: Once the lightning gets trapped in all those holes, where does it go? Why do the ones in the wing come so close to the seat? Would the cat help here? > >Better yet, why not cut lightning holes in the skin of the wing, this will >greatly reduce the weight of the aircraft, and reduce skin drag, as there >will be less of it ;) > >cheers >Todd > > >> >> >> >> >>> >>> >>> Save yourself a few grand and use the cat as a wing leveler, but make sure >>> your lightning holes go from one wing tip to the other >>> >>> >> >>One question that didn't get asked is - do we cut lightning holes in the >ribs so >>we can fly in the rain? >> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 31, 1998
Subject: Re: Questions I could never Ask
SORRY, ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 31, 1998
Subject: Re: Questions I could never Ask
SORRY, if you cut lightning holes on the skin, you will let the cat out, hendering the use of your wing leveler ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 31, 1998
Subject: Re: Tank Fittings
<< >> RV-6Q Just installed my vent lines on the QB where the outlets point back, >> contrary to plans. >> >> > > May I ask a dumb question? If the vent line outlet faces backwards won't >the air >flow past them create a low pressure area at the outlet and suck the fuel >out of the >tank? I was referring to the tank outlets. On the 6 plans I have the outlets on the bottom of the fuselage point down with a 45 degree slant ground on the front of the outlet fitting so that part of the hole is sort of exposed to the airstream >> My belief was that the original poster was referring to the right angle vent fittings in the wing tank root rib, not to the positioning of the fuel vent fuselage fittings. IMO the right angle fuel tank vent root fittings should go up and forward in order to minimize the liquid trap situation that can occur when fuel backs up in this line. You are correct in that the vent fittings that mount to the fuselage bottom should point into the airstream. Tubing pitot or fitting cut to 45 both work well. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: OSH ATC
Date: Jul 31, 1998
Where are you guys getting the OSH ATC? Steve Soule ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 31, 1998
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: Re: BIG DEAL
Charlie, If I remember your PC from my visit you will do fine with the RealPlayer G2 Beta >>FREE<< download. It takes about 2.5 Meg ROM 16 Meg. RAM and sound card of some sort that if I have it you must since this is a homemade PC with a lot of cheap stuff in it! Don't forget to install it after you download it. I forgot to say that I've been listening to OSH-ATC from AVWeb.com with this free download and it works fine. I've also been listening to Dean Martin and Frank Sinatra on amazon.com. Funny, I never really appreciated Deano's music when I was younger and Hendrix and Led Zep occupied my sound system. I guess we all grow up and appreciate the finer things in life sooner or later. (Here come the flames.........) Al > >Al & listers, >I have Real Player 3.0 on my old 486SX2-50 machine. I tried to listen in >using that, but it appears you need the latest & the greatest version to >listen in. Before I waste my time doing that, what are the minimum >hardware requirements for this newest version of Real Player? Thanks >Charlie Kuss >> better yet just go to >> http://www.real.com/products/player/index.html?src=downloadr >> and down load it. I just did all the search work for you. AL Col. Ohio , ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 31, 1998
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: OSH ATC
Steve, Get the audio hook up from >> http://www.avweb.com << I'm listening to OSH tower as I type this E-Mail. You only get 15 Mins. at a time then your bumped off but it's kinda neat. Al > >Where are you guys getting the OSH ATC? > >Steve Soule ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 31, 1998
From: rimbold <rimbold(at)ntr.net>
Subject: Re: OSH ATC
Stephen J. Soule wrote: > Where are you guys getting the OSH ATC? There are two sites: http://www.avweb.com and http://www.cyberair.com Just follow the RealAudio and/or Osh98 links. The audio provided by CyberAir doesn't seem to have the 15-minute time limit applied by AvWeb. At CyberAir, each of the servers seems to carry different feeds. One is Center, others are Air Boss, or Osh controllers. I'm listening to the air show commentator now. -- -------- Rob Rimbold rimbold(at)ntr.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Corbitt" <donc(at)analogia.com>
Subject: New Mailing List - Avionics Brainstorming
Date: Jul 31, 1998
Have you ever said "Why did those idiots design my electronics this way!" I know a lot of people who build their own airplanes have ideas on how the instruments ought to work. I'm a computer programmer and new pilot, my wife is an electrical engineer, and together we have invented (even patented) some cool electronic gadgets used in computer animation. Well, now I want to find a way to turn flying into a deductible business expense (grin), so I'm looking to design/build software intensive cool toys for small airplanes. Possibly nothing would come of this discussion, but if you want to tell me what your dream avionics product should do I'd like to hear about it. You can send me email suggestions directly, or you can join a discussion list by subscribing to the Avionics Brainstorm mailing list. To subscribe to the Avionics Brainstorming email list send a subscribe command as follows: # To: listserv(at)analogia.com # Subject: # Body of message: # subscribe brainstorm If you don't get a response within an hour or so, send me a direct message and I'll sign you up by hand. -- Don Corbitt, donc(at)analogia.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: donspawn(at)Juno.com
Subject: LH wing don't fit
Date: Jul 31, 1998
My distance on the LH wing is about 3/32 longer that the fuselage attach at the F605. I got to move something. What tolerance can I get by with? & any help on what to unrivet & shim? The skeleton is all rivetted & ready to start drilling the skin. Don Jordan ~ 76DJ ~ 6A fuselage ~ Arlington,Tx ~ donspawn(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lewis, Timothy, MAJ, AF/XOIWO" <lewisth(at)pentagon.af.mil>
Subject: free Real Player stil available
Date: Jul 31, 1998
>AvWeb will let you listen to the Osk sound provided you download the latest >Real Player plus G2 for $29.95 which they let you think is free..The whole >Osh98 report is nearly one big ad for the sponsors....JLB The free player is still available at http://www.real.com/products/player/50player/downloadrealplayer.html?wp=dl07 98&src=G2player or go to http://www.real.com/products/player/index.html and select "download 5.0". The real player web site is doing a better and better job of hiding the free download, but it's still there. Tim Lewis RV-6AQ N47TD (reserved) Springfield VA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 31, 1998
From: "Renee Wells" <rWells(at)kff.org>
Subject: New Member
Hi Everyone! My husband have been slowly working toward purchasing a kit and starting a plane. We recently rented a Goldwing motorcycle for fun and drove from our home in San Jose, California, up to the Canadian border (all along the Coast) and then went to the Van's plant and took the tour and demo ride! That certainly made our minds up--we want one, we want one! The only problem now is deciding which one we want to build: the RV6, 6a, or RV8? A little about us: We are both in our early 40's, with no children or pets. We are avid motorcyclists, and Ross has been roadracing bikes for about 12 years, and been involved with the Bay Area club racing organization--AFM (American Federation of Motorcyclists) for about 10-12 years. He races at Sears Point in Sonoma, and at three other tracks in California--Thunderhill Raceway, Button Willow,and Willow Springs. However, we hope to end the racing this year, so we can dedicate all our SPARE time to the plane. My husband, Ross, recently went to our first EAA meeting and Iwill go next week. We hope to meet other people who are working on their kits, but would especially like to meet those working on the RVs. If any of you live in the Bay Area and would be willing to share with us...please email me and let me know. Thanks for your input! Renee Wells rwells(at)kff.org ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Imhof" <imhof(at)2xtreme.net>
Subject: WILL CALL at VANS on 8/7 to SAC
Date: Jul 31, 1998
I will be picking up an RV-8 quickbuild from VANS on Friday 8/7/98. If you have parts to be shipped to the Sacramento area, I'm your one-day shipping company. Heck if your interested in helping me with the drive back I won't charge for the shipping! -Paul RV-8 "quantum leap" imhof(at)2xtreme.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Imhof" <imhof(at)2xtreme.net>
Subject: Re: free Real Player stil available
Date: Jul 31, 1998
Thanks... I was having a time finding it. -----Original Message----- From: Lewis, Timothy, MAJ, AF/XOIWO <lewisth(at)pentagon.af.mil> Date: Friday, July 31, 1998 9:28 PM Subject: RV-List: free Real Player stil available > > > >>AvWeb will let you listen to the Osk sound provided you download the latest >>Real Player plus G2 for $29.95 which they let you think is free..The whole >>Osh98 report is nearly one big ad for the sponsors....JLB > >The free player is still available at >http://www.real.com/products/player/50player/downloadrealplayer.html?wp=dl0 7 >98&src=G2player or go to http://www.real.com/products/player/index.html and >select "download 5.0". The real player web site is doing a better and >better job of hiding the free download, but it's still there. > >Tim Lewis >RV-6AQ N47TD (reserved) >Springfield VA > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Imhof" <imhof(at)2xtreme.net>
Subject: Re: New Member
Date: Jul 31, 1998
I am home listening to Oshkosh EAA at http://www.cyberair.com/oshkosh98/index.html when your message came accross. If you are as exited as your spouse then I would think your only decision would be an RV-6 or -6a I'm building an RV-8 and live in Sacramento. My wife isn't interested in flying with me so... the -8 was the right choice for me. Have either of you flown in a small plane? Paul RV-8 "quantum leap" imhof(at)2xtreme.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 31, 1998
From: Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com>
Subject: Re: New Member
If you are concerned about cross country comfort, got with the -6 or -6A (you don't want to start a discussion on tailwheel vs. nosegear, trust me!) If you want more performance, and don't mind looking at the back of someone's head, then go with the -8....You will hear many pros and cons, but it is really just personal preference, as all RV's are fantastic performing airplanes, and will outfly just about any GA airplane you will commonly fly. (there are some exceptions, naturally, but most factory built airplanes cant hold a candle to these machines!) Good luck with your decision, and welcome to "the list" Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB)Arizona Waiting for Finish Kit > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 31, 1998
From: Joe Larson <jpl(at)showpg.mn.org.showpg.mn.org>
Subject: Re: MSP-OSH Response
Nick -- Turns out I won't be home for at least part of Friday evening. I just got a call from a friend asking if I can come down and help him pick up a bay window from Home Depot. Wife and I are going to dinner, then down there. I don't know if we'll be home at a decent time. So, you can call here tomorrow: 551-1072. Or you can try at my friends: 894-8507. -Joe > >Return-Path: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > From: AIRPLANEIT(at)aol.com > Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 14:00:02 EDT > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: MSP-OSH Response > Mime-Version: 1.0 > > > With AOL, if you read an e-mail...it auto deletes after a couple days, but I > have intended to respond to the person departing MSP in a 172 on the 3rd (his > address got delelted with the e-mail). Is the offer still good? If so, you can > contact me at > > airplaneit(at)aol.com > > > 651-714-5313 > > I would greatly appreciate it, and I intend to share expenses. > > -Nick Stolley > Woodbury, MN > so close to OSH, but so far away > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 31, 1998
From: susan dawson <jollyd(at)teleport.com>
Subject: don't wanter
Hi. people...does anyone know of a "don't wanter" that wants to sell thier project? I am a a&p here in aurora, or. (very loght on cash, but have a few things to trade) thanks a lot! jollyd(at)teleport.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 31, 1998
From: Thomas Velvick <tvelvick(at)caljet.com>
Subject: aileron riveting
Does anybody have any easy ways they have used to rivet the aileron top skin to the aileron front spar? Regards, Tom Velvick Phoenix, AZ rv-6a ailerons ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 31, 1998
Subject: Re: Gouge in rear spar
I would be more concerned perhaps about the removal of the alclad or other surface treatments. I would have preferred that the area buffed not been so large but from your description of the "damage" I think you have no real concern and I doubt that you have in any significant way reduced the strength of your wing. Re-alodine or prime the area and proceed with no more worries. Anything else you do to it will only make it worse. I would not consider a doubler for such a thing (opinion) and feel there is real danger of causing more harm than good and creating additional areas for stress risers with a doubler or such. JR A&P ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 31, 1998
From: John Perri <jperri(at)aros.net>
Subject: Flight of the Phoenix II
On July 30th ..N345JE took to the sky once again, 14 months after the bird strike. The flight was conducted at TUS International. I was at the controls and even made some A10's that were doing low passes take a second look. Today I flew The mighty RV-6 back home to Salt Lake City and tucked it away safely in the hanger. Part two of surviving a bird strike will contain tips on how to or not to handle a rebuild.. JMP N345JE ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 31, 1998
Subject: Re: Aileron Riveting
Tom Velvick asked: >>Does anybody have any easy ways they have used to rivet the aileron top >>skin to the aileron front spar? I riveted the top spar with the ailerons in the jig to hold them steady. I stuffed rags or something in the bottom of the v-jig to raise the ailerons enough so I could let the leading edge spring open to get in there with the bucking bar. I was able to get my arm far enough into the leading edge from the ends to buck all of the rivets. Picture this: One arm buried armpit deep in an aileron while holding the bucking bar, one arm fully extended with the 2x gun. Sounds scary, but it worked for me, and I'm no ace with the rivet bashing equipment. I think it is important to note that I used a 2"x2"x3" bucking bar, which I had cut out of some scrap steel. It was just the right size. I must warn you that sticking your arm all the way inside the aileron is likely to earn you a few scrapes... Kyle Boatright Fretting over rivets near the tailwheel... A new experience in poor bucking access. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: aileron riveting
Date: Aug 01, 1998
Tom, I used the Frank Justice instructions. They can be found at various RV-related web sites. Let me know if you can't find them. Steve Soule RV-6A fuselage upright, installing rear baggage pieces -----Original Message----- From: Thomas Velvick [mailto:tvelvick(at)caljet.com] Sent: Friday, July 31, 1998 8:44 PM To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: aileron riveting Does anybody have any easy ways they have used to rivet the aileron top skin to the aileron front spar? Regards, Tom Velvick Phoenix, AZ rv-6a ailerons ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 01, 1998
From: MICHAEL <lottmc(at)datasync.com>
Subject: Re: LH wing don't fit
You should call Van's and ask about renting their fuselage stretching tool. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 01, 1998
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Need Copy of AEC Rev 7
Have a new customer who needs copy of Revision 7 to the 'Connection. If anyone has a copy in good shape that they'd be willing to part with for a few weeks, I'll forward an address to you for mailing the book. In exchange, I'll replace it with a Revision 8 book in a few weeks at no extra charge. Interested RV'ers should e-mail me directly with their offer Thanks! Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========= < If you continue to do > < What you've always done > < You will continue to be > < What you've always been. > ================================= <http://www.aeroelectric.com> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "mcomeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net>
Subject: Electric flap
Date: Aug 01, 1998
I'm installing the electric flap assembly in 6A-QB according the directions in the kit manual it indicates 9 1/2" forward of the f605 web to mount. And the flap kit indicates 10" forward any real differance here? Regards Mike Comeaux ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 01, 1998
From: Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)mci2000.com>
Subject: Re: Electric flap
> I'm installing the electric flap assembly in 6A-QB according the directions > in > the kit manual it indicates 9 1/2" forward of the f605 web to mount. And > the > flap kit indicates 10" forward any real differance here? Make sure that when you swing the flap weldment, it clears the channel whose bottom end defines the noted dimension. Mine had to be 10" by the way. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pbennett(at)zip.com.au
Date: Aug 02, 1998
Subject: Re: Electric flap
> I'm installing the electric flap assembly in 6A-QB according the > directions in the kit manual it indicates 9 1/2" forward of the f605 > web to mount. And the flap kit indicates 10" forward any real > differance here? Go as far forward as the side skins and channel will allow. At least 10" is necessary for the weldment to clear the channel. Peter Bennett Sydney Australia RV6 doing cowls ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Limaluk(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 01, 1998
Subject: Dynafocal Mounts
A friend not on the list said he received no instructions with his Dynafocal Lord Mounts, nor are there instructions in is RV manual as to where the bolts and washers are to go. There are two lengths of bolts and two different thickness of fender washers. Also, Vans has inclueded 8 thinner fender washers. Can anyone describe how these are to be used. Couldn't find it in the archives. Thanks. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 01, 1998
From: Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com>
Subject: Re: aileron riveting
> >Does anybody have any easy ways they have used to rivet the aileron top >skin to the aileron front spar? > Hi Tom, I used my trusty Avery #615 bucking bar. But be careful not to let it hit the skin about mid way between the spar and the trailing edge. It will dent it from the inside. Duct tape on the bucking bar would probably help. Also I taped a 1/4" x 7/16" x 2" piece of balsa to the bottom so it could ride on the spar and be the correct height to match the rivet line. (call if unclear) Larry Olson RV6 - Wings Cave Creek, AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 01, 1998
From: Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com>
Subject: Pitot Tube Placement
I am about to mount my pitot tube. Is there any reason NOT to mount it in the called out location (about 2" inboard of the tie down) I looked at two RV's today and both were mounted more outboard on the wing. Larry Olson RV6 - About to close left wing Cave Creek, AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 01, 1998
From: wntzl(at)execpc.com (David M Wentzell)
Subject: "don't wanter" reply
Hello, I picked up a "Trade a Plane" at Oshkosh. On paging through it I was quite amazed at the number of them in there. Check it out - there are a few RV's at various stages of completion that might fit your needs. David Wentzell RV6 - Wings - Racine, Wisconsin ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 01, 1998
From: Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com>
Subject: Re: Pitot Tube Placement
> >I am about to mount my pitot tube. Is there any reason NOT to mount it in >the called out location (about 2" inboard of the tie down) I looked at two >RV's today and both were mounted more outboard on the wing. > >Larry Olson >RV6 - About to close left wing >Cave Creek, AZ I mounted mine on the next rib out from the tiedown after several people told me I would have less interference there between the tie down ropes or chains and the pitot tube. I also went with a heated pitot tube that is bigger that the one Van's supplies. Regards, Tom Velvick rv-6a ailerons Peoria, AZ USA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Dynafocal Mounts
Date: Aug 01, 1998
The RV-6/6A manual includes this info either as figure 11-1 in Section 11 or as an SK in the older manual in the engine and propeller installation section. I don't know if it is now in the RV-4 manual but it was published a number of years ago in the newsletter. I will try to explain, but for this, a picture is worth a thousand words. The longer bolts go in the bottom holes along with one of the thinner large washers under each bolt head against a softer rubber mount (Barry -71) and one of the thicker large washers between the engine boss and the harder rubber mount (Barry -73). The thicker washer is to provide clearance for the rubber mount to fit over the step in the engine case on the bottom and it is very important to get this right. The top bolts get a thicker washer under the bolt head against the harder rubber mount (-73) and there is no washer between the inner rubber mount (-71) and the engine boss. The spacers go between the sets of rubber mounts. The extra thinner large washers might be used later to reposition the engine if it sags too much to align with the cowl but I believe they are included in error. There should be eight AN960-716 washers to go under the nuts and only two AN970-7 large washers in the hardware kit, not the other way around. I sent Van's a note to that effect but I think it got lost in cyberspace. > >A friend not on the list said he received no instructions with his Dynafocal >Lord Mounts, nor are there instructions in is RV manual as to where the bolts >and washers are to go. There are two lengths of bolts and two different >thickness of fender washers. Also, Vans has inclueded 8 thinner fender >washers. Can anyone describe how these are to be used. Couldn't find it in >the archives. Thanks. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Pitot Tube Placement
Date: Aug 01, 1998
The older plans called for the pitot tube to be located just outboard of the tie down. That put it right where the tie down rope would normally end up and a lot of pitots got mangled. For that reason, it should be inboard as called out in the plans or a ways outboard from the tie down location. Les Williams/RV-6AQ/ Tacoma WA > >I am about to mount my pitot tube. Is there any reason NOT to mount it in >the called out location (about 2" inboard of the tie down) I looked at two >RV's today and both were mounted more outboard on the wing. > >Larry Olson >RV6 - About to close left wing >Cave Creek, AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Pitot Tube Placement
Date: Aug 02, 1998
From: "William H. Watson" <wmwatson(at)earthlink.net>
I mounted the Gretz (combo pitot/static) one rib bay further out to lessen the physical conflict with the tie down. That is, the rope bending the tube. The same may be true of the Van's standard issue. I have never heard of anyone claiming better accuracy, etc. > >I am about to mount my pitot tube. Is there any reason NOT to mount it in >the called out location (about 2" inboard of the tie down) I looked at two >RV's today and both were mounted more outboard on the wing. William H. Watson wmwatson(at)earthlink.net H: 650 254-1656 W: 408 553-4225 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 02, 1998
From: Will Cretsinger <cretsinger(at)arlington.net>
Subject: Re: Extended Backriveting Tool
KBoatri144(at)aol.com wrote: I had good luck with the > standard backriveting tool, and need to know if there are any "tricks" to > using the longer one. Kyle, I suggest you not put aside the "standard" backriveting tool...we used it in preference to the long tool where access permitted. Will Cretsinger, Arlington, TX -6A Finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 02, 1998
From: George McNutt <GMcNutt(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: Bellcrank Confession
Alas, I must confess that I cannot drill holes in a straight line! This shocking discovery came when I tried to drill the rigging holes to lock the aileron bellcranks in their neutral position. Just how does one drill straight holes through three pieces that are separated by a half inch or so, - help required here otherwise I will have to join Drillers Anonymous. After failing to drill accurate holes to lock the bellcranks in neutral I made "L" shaped brackets with a 3/8 hole on one side. Hole goes over the bellcrank pushrod bolt and the other part of the "L" is clamped to the back side of the 3/4 X 3/4 bellcrank support. Add the thickness of the support (.063) to the dimension on the plan to get the exact bellcrank neutral point. George McNutt, Langley B.C. 6A - Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 02, 1998
From: Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)mci2000.com>
Subject: Re: Bellcrank Confession
> Just how does one drill straight holes through three pieces that are > separated by a half inch or so, - help required here otherwise I will have > to join Drillers Anonymous. Drill holes in some hardwood blocks. Drill one of the three pieces, clamp the blocks in between the various layers, and drill. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: Bellcrank Confession
Date: Aug 02, 1998
George, I used a drill press and a custom-made (whittled) piece of wood to fill the empty space. The wood keeps the bit from wandering. It is not perfect, perhaps something with more mass, that is, aluminum scrap, would work better than wood. I made one of them twice, too! Steve Soule Huntington Vermont, RV-6A fuselage, installing rear baggage compartment wall -----Original Message----- Just how does one drill straight holes through three pieces that are separated by a half inch or so, - help required here otherwise I will have to join Drillers Anonymous. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Aug 02, 1998
Subject: Re: Pitot Tube Placement
> > I am about to mount my pitot tube. Is there any reason NOT to mount it in > the called out location (about 2" inboard of the tie down) I looked at two > RV's today and both were mounted more outboard on the wing. I moved my tiedown further outboard (one rib's worth, as I recall) to reduce the chance of tiedown rope interference with my Gretz pitot tube. Tim _+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_+_ Tim Lewis N47TD (reserved) RV-6AQ #60023 on gear, engine mounted Springfield VA http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a timrv6a(at)iname.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 03, 1998
From: Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU>
Subject: Re: Bellcrank Confession
> >Alas, I must confess that I cannot drill holes in a straight line! >This shocking discovery came when I tried to drill the rigging holes to >lock the aileron bellcranks in their neutral position. > >Just how does one drill straight holes through three pieces that are >separated by a half inch or so, - help required here otherwise I will have >to join Drillers Anonymous. George, If there is a gap between structures and they are distorting under drilling pressure you need to stick in shims the same thickness as the gap, clamp the whole mess together and then drill. Use the usual "look at the reflection of the drill to make sure you are at 90 degrees" technique. Incidentally...... The above technique is so good for getting holes at a right angle to a surface that I now clamp scraps of .025 on the front of bits of wood when I am doing joinery type stuff..... Can't believe I spent all those years working with a non-reflective material. Leo Davies ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "J. Farrar" <fourazjs(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: New Member
Date: Aug 02, 1998
Welcome to the list Renee! One thing to consider is that the -8 has a higher gross if you don't mind riding tandem like your motorcycle. Jeff Farrar, RV8A, Empennage complete, QB due in Nov., Chandler, AZ -----Original Message----- From: Renee Wells <rWells(at)kff.org> Date: Friday, July 31, 1998 2:16 PM Subject: RV-List: New Member >That certainly made our minds up--we want one, we want one! The only problem now is deciding which one we want to build: the RV6, 6a, or RV8? >Thanks for your input! > >Renee Wells >rwells(at)kff.org ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Bellcrank Confession
Date: Aug 02, 1998
>From owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com Sun Aug 2 10:20:00 1998 >Received: (from daemon@localhost) (PDT) >Date: Sun, 2 Aug 1998 13:15:34 -0400 >From: George McNutt <GMcNutt(at)compuserve.com> >Subject: RV-List: Bellcrank Confession >To: RV-LIST >Message-ID: <199808021316_MC2-54E6-65AD(at)compuserve.com> >Sender: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com >Precedence: bulk >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > >Alas, I must confess that I cannot drill holes in a straight line! >This shocking discovery came when I tried to drill the rigging holes to >lock the aileron bellcranks in their neutral position. > >Just how does one drill straight holes through three pieces that are >separated by a half inch or so, - help required here otherwise I will have >to join Drillers Anonymous. > I made a drill guide from a block of aluminum (any material of the same thickness as the gap will do.) The drill guide hole was drilled on an accurate drill press (not mine!) This guide worked great for the pivot bearing bolt hole. I did not drill the hole for a neutral pin. Instead, I clamped the bellcrank tightly in place with C-clamps. Rick Caldwell RV6,fitting the sliding canopy >After failing to drill accurate holes to lock the bellcranks in neutral I >made "L" shaped brackets with a 3/8 hole on one side. Hole goes over the >bellcrank pushrod bolt and the other part of the "L" is clamped to the back >side of the 3/4 X 3/4 bellcrank support. Add the thickness of the support >(.063) to the dimension on the plan to get the exact bellcrank neutral >point. > >George McNutt, Langley B.C. >6A - Wings > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: MN Wing Sat Breakfast
Date: Aug 02, 1998
Fellow Listers: Again, just a reminder to the local MN RV folks the Minnesota Wing will gather for breakfast this Saturday, August 8 at 0900 at the Hideaway Cafe at St. Paul Airport. Bring your OSH tales! Also, mark your calendars for the annual MN Wing Fly-In and Pig Roast, Sat Sept 12 at 1 pm at the Sky Harbor Airport south of Minneapolis. Details in our Sept newsletter or email me for directions. Doug MN Wing ============ Doug Weiler Hudson, WI 715-386-1239 dougweil(at)pressenter.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BPattonsoa(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 02, 1998
Subject: Re: Bellcrank Confession
Use a shim as described by others between the first angle and the bellcrank. Then you will have enough "stiffness" for a 12" drill to get that last angle. Just don't rush it. Clamp the mess thogether tightly. Bruce Patton Painting Fueselage tomorrow, the END. (except trim) P.S. Hope to be able to give some info on paint quantities, such as Oz primer to do a wing, oz to finish the wing. The numbers are written all over the plastic walls of the spray booth, most are still readable. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 02, 1998
From: MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Oshkosh and my web page
Hi all. I'm back from Oshkosh, and by tommorrow night I should have some pictures up on my page. 2 customer built RV-8's showed up. If you have a webpage, and would like me to link to it, please send me an email personally so I can add it when I do the big update tommorrow. I really enjoyed the show, and it was great meeting many of the RV listers. You are all a great bunch, and I'm already looking forward to meeting you all again next year. Moe Colontonio RV-8 Cockpit Floor moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net Check out my RV-8 page at: http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cheetah(at)saber.net
Date: Aug 02, 1998
Subject: Re:Terra Radios
Would the gentleman who is selling the Terra radios please email me with price requirements. I have inadvertantly erased your posting. Thanks Rob Miller 80153 Fuse ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 02, 1998
From: Joe Larson <jpl(at)showpg.mn.org.showpg.mn.org>
Subject: Re: Bellcrank Confession
> > Alas, I must confess that I cannot drill holes in a straight line! > This shocking discovery came when I tried to drill the rigging holes to > lock the aileron bellcranks in their neutral position. > > Just how does one drill straight holes through three pieces that are > separated by a half inch or so, - help required here otherwise I will have > to join Drillers Anonymous. The only way I get straight holes is when I use the drill press. -J get one. -Joe ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Burger" <hbarca(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Zoche aero diesel
Date: Aug 03, 1998
Hey guys: I was wondering about putting a 300 hp Zoche Aero Diesel engine in an rv-6. It is dimensionally smaller than a 180-200hp lycoming. You can find the Zoche page via a search engine just in case. It won't go on the market until it is certified under the FAR 33. My question is this, Has anyone other than me ever heard of the engine ,and what does anybody think of it. I have already written Van's about it. Thanks, Scott Burger email: hbarca(at)hotmail.com Nunca tenga miedo de lograr... Never be afraid to achieve... N'avez jamais peur d'achever... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6junkie(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 03, 1998
Subject: The best laid plans
Sorry I didnt get to meet any of you at OSH last week. I got delayed by fog on my departure on Thursday so I didnt get into OSH until after noon. Upon landing, my right rudder peddle broke from the weldment (luckily no other damage). I spent most of Friday morning and the first part of the afternoon at the repair shop welding (and reinforcing) the rudder. By the time I finished the repairs I realized I missed the noon meeting at the tent, again. I left Saturday morning. Hopefully next year. BTW, there is no better place to have an airplane break. Gary Corde RV-6 N211GC - NJ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6junkie(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 03, 1998
Subject: Re: Zoche aero diesel
Those guys have been coming to OSH and S-n-F for years (like 10) and every year they expect certification "next year". Plan on installing a Lycoming. Gary Corde RV-6 N211GC - NJ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
Subject: Re: MN Wing Sat Breakfast
Date: Aug 03, 1998
> >Fellow Listers: > >Again, just a reminder to the local MN RV folks the Minnesota Wing will >gather for breakfast this Saturday, August 8 at 0900 at the Hideaway Cafe >at St. Paul Airport. Doug and All, Remember that this weekend is the CAF Airpower Display at St Paul Holman Field. There will be all kinds of WWII iron there and lots of neat things to see! You may want to check with someone at the CAF to arrange aircraft parking, depending how many of your members are flying in. I am not sure if you have to purchase an admission ticket to get to the restaurant from the street side or not. Tailwinds, Doug Rozendaal dougr(at)petroblend.com http://www.petroblend.com/dougr ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)idacom.hp.com>
Subject: Re: Zoche aero diesel
Date: Aug 03, 1998
Scott Burger writes: > > I was wondering about putting a 300 hp Zoche Aero Diesel engine > in an rv-6. The Zoche engine is a really interesting design, which incorporates several patented ideas. The patents make interesting reading. Perhaps it will never reach production, as many will no doubt suggest. But if it does, I think you'll find the 150 HP version more suitable for an RV-6. You'd end up with a very light RV-6, if Zoche's claims about weight are at all realistic. That would probably be a more satisfactory airplane, all things considered, than a 300 HP monster that sucks fuel at twice the rate but only goes 25 or 30 knots faster. And you don't really want an airplane that can exceed its Vne in level flight. You'd need to move the engine's CG about two feet further forward, to compensate for the lighter weight. Fortunately, the Zoche's CG is probably somewhat closer to the prop flange than a Lycoming's, so the prop might only need to go forward a foot or so. Tedd McHenry Surrey, BC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jbabell(at)mediaone.net
Date: Jul 26, 1998
Subject: Experimental Placard: Passenger Warning
Does anyone have at hand the FAR source of the text for the placard required in an experimental aircraft advising passengers of the fact that the aircraft is amateur-built, etc? Many thanks. Jack Abell Los Angeles RV-6A N333JA (Reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 03, 1998
Subject: Re: RV6 HIT AT OSH
Dear listers, just read the ntsb report for the past weekend, it seems a rv6 was hit by another airplane and damaged the rv's wings, the registration on the rv was N122BP based at Overgaard Arizona. I have a friend in Overgaard Az. lives right by the only strip there. if anyone knows the name and phone on the owner of this aircraft i would be interested thanks, scott winging it in tampa emp done, flaps done, ailerons done. wing spar ? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Oxygen Systems
Date: Aug 03, 1998
I am looking into installing an oxygen system in my 6A. Does anyone have an opinion on the Nelson Systems (now owned by Precise Flight) vs the Mountain High Systems (or any other system you like or dislike.) The main difference I see in the two is the regulator and attaching hardware since both use the Nelson A3 or A4 flowmeter and Oxymizer cannulas. Mountain High has a bigger selection of bottle sizes and are less expensive. http://mtn-high.com/ for Mountain High Ross Mickey cutting Plexiglas in the 90 degree heat ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6junkie(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 03, 1998
Subject: Re: Experimental Placard: Passenger Warning
In a message dated 8/3/98 2:16:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jbabell(at)mediaone.net writes: << Does anyone have at hand the FAR source of the text for the placard required in an experimental aircraft advising passengers of the fact that the aircraft is amateur-built, etc? >> All in uppercase PASSENGER WARNING THIS AIRCRAFT IS AMATEUR-BUILT AND DOES NOT COMPLY WITH THE FEDERAL SAFETY REGULATIONS FOR "STANDARD AIRCRAFT" Gary Corde RV-6 N211GC - NJ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John McLaughlin" <johnmc49(at)ecity.net>
Subject: Partial RV 6A kit
Date: Aug 03, 1998
Rebuilding an couple Cherokee's has slowed down my RV6A project so I am ordering a qb kit to get caught up and have the following for sale or trade for 0-320. Wing kit with phlogistan spar and BAC fast build option. Ribs riveted in place. Tanks are done and tested (used Cleaveland tank dimple die for nice finish) leading edge done and attached, main skins drilled and ready to dimple. Olds landing light kit (2) in outboard leading edges. Tail kit is completed except for fiberglass tips. Reasonable offers considered. Located in Des Moines, IA contact johnmc49(at)ecity.net thanks John McLaughlin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: YBoulais1(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 03, 1998
Subject: Re: Oxygen Systems
The only one that I know is the Aerox system. I have been using it in my Twin Comanche and I love it. They will take the time to answer your question too. Call Loyd at Aerox you will save yourself some $$$ in the process. Yves ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 03, 1998
From: Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Zoche aero diesel
> >Hey guys: >I was wondering about putting a 300 hp Zoche Aero Diesel engine >in an rv-6. It is dimensionally smaller than a 180-200hp lycoming. >You can find the Zoche page via a search engine just in case. >It won't go on the market until it is certified under the FAR 33. >My question is this, Has anyone other than me ever heard of the engine >,and what does anybody think of it. I have already written Van's about Scott, For the past 10 years, everyone who has ever been to Oshkosh has seen or heard of the Zoche diesel. Each year they tell us they are going to demonstrate a running engine "next year". I have yet to see it. I believe they actually do have a running engine and have done some flight testing. Their engine concepts are among the best I have seen in this "race to be the first" aero-diesel. I just wish I could see the real thing. Louis Louis I. Willig larywil(at)home.com (610) 668-4964 Philadelphia, PA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 03, 1998
From: Paul Besing <rv8er(at)doitnow.com>
Subject: Re: Experimental Placard: Passenger Warning
You forgot to add this to the bottom: PASSENGER WARNING THIS AIRCRAFT IS AMATEUR-BUILT AND DOES NOT COMPLY WITH THE FEDERAL SAFETY REGULATIONS FOR "STANDARD AIRCRAFT" IT EXCEEDS THEM Paul Besing RV-6A (197AB) Arizona Waiting on Finish Kit ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "TOMMY E. WALKER" <twsurveyor(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Plane crash @ OSH
Date: Aug 03, 1998
Does anyone know the details of the crash at OSH? The news said, last night, that it had crashed on a residential street near the airport. The picture looked like an RV tail, although they didn't say what type plane it was. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Daniel H. Morris III" <Morristec(at)icdc.com>
Subject: Re: Plane crash @ OSH
Date: Aug 03, 1998
Just back from OSH. According to the local paper, a CASA jet crashed on a street in OSH by the lake. PAX died in fire, pilot in serious condition. No one on the ground was injured. No other info available this AM. Dan Morris -----Original Message----- From: TOMMY E. WALKER <twsurveyor(at)email.msn.com> Date: Monday, August 03, 1998 2:33 PM Subject: RV-List: Plane crash @ OSH > >Does anyone know the details of the crash at OSH? The news said, last night, >that it had crashed on a residential street near the airport. The picture >looked like an RV tail, although they didn't say what type plane it was. > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 03, 1998
From: Thomas Velvick <rver(at)caljet.com>
Subject: Re: RV6 HIT AT OSH
> >Dear listers, >just read the ntsb report for the past weekend, it seems a rv6 was hit by >another airplane and damaged the rv's wings, the registration on the rv was >N122BP based at Overgaard Arizona. I have a friend in Overgaard Az. lives >right by the only strip there. if anyone knows the name and phone on the >owner of this aircraft i would be interested >thanks, >scott This is what it shows on the net N-number : N122BP Aircraft Manufacturer/Model : N/a Engine Manufacturer : LYCOMING Model : O&VO-360 SER Aircraft Year : 1997 Owner Name : SCOTTSDALE AERO MECH FLYING CLUB INC Owner Address : PO BOX 937 OVERGAARD, AZ, 85933-0937 Registration Date : 22-Nov-1997 Airworthiness Certificate Type: Experimental Approved Operations : Amateur Built ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: Re: MN Wing Sat Breakfast
Date: Aug 03, 1998
Doug: Wow, am I glad you reminded me. I totally forgot all about that. I'll call Jim Lenzmeier tonight and see if we still want to even meet there. Might even just skip this month. Thanks again, Doug ---------- > From: Doug Rozendaal <dougr(at)petroblend.com> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: MN Wing Sat Breakfast > Date: Monday, August 03, 1998 9:07 AM > > > > > > > >Fellow Listers: > > > >Again, just a reminder to the local MN RV folks the Minnesota Wing will > >gather for breakfast this Saturday, August 8 at 0900 at the Hideaway Cafe > >at St. Paul Airport. > > > Doug and All, > > Remember that this weekend is the CAF Airpower Display at St Paul Holman > Field. There will be all kinds of WWII iron there and lots of neat things > to see! You may want to check with someone at the CAF to arrange aircraft > parking, depending how many of your members are flying in. I am not sure if > you have to purchase an admission ticket to get to the restaurant from the > street side or not. > > Tailwinds, > Doug Rozendaal > dougr(at)petroblend.com > http://www.petroblend.com/dougr > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: QmaxLLC(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 03, 1998
Subject: Zoche aero diesel alternatives other than Lycosaur after KOSH
98 << Hey guys: I was wondering about putting a 300 hp Zoche Aero Diesel engine in an rv-6. It is dimensionally smaller than a 180-200hp lycoming. You can find the Zoche page via a search engine just in case. It won't go on the market until it is certified under the FAR 33. My question is this, Has anyone other than me ever heard of the engine ,and what does anybody think of it. I have already written Van's about it. >> It's been around a long time (pushing 8 years at KOSH now) but never gotten beyond the test stand. Looks neat, though. To quote the inventor's son at KOSH just two days ago "Ve are not likely to haff zomzing in ze air for at leazt two more yearz." Question: If I'd asked you that last year what would have said? Answer: "Ze zame zing" (big but slightly embarrased grin) Summation: Fergit it, my friend.....Especially since this is exactly the same conversation I had with them in 1996. You want to do something other than a Lycosaur? 1. get Tracy Crook's book at 75115.606(at)compuserve.com and learn how to put a Mazda rotary together for less for $10K. Lotsa beans and make it as pretty as you can afford. 2. Check out the Vee four Diesel from DeltaHawk at deltahawkengines.com "Ready to ship in the fall" and might just make it. Looks great. 3. Scope out a beautiful rotary from Powersport by calling them at 715/294-2557 4. Blow your mind with the Wankel-twinpack on http://www.wankel-rotary.com "Ready next year" and just might be able to do it. It's two side by side rotary engines running a single PSRU. Pull the cowel and stand by for the chorus of "Good Grief!" 5. Get a good look at a ready-right-now firewall-forward rotary from David Atkins at Atkinsrotary.com. Options 1, 3 and 5 are the most feasible and you can mix and match to concoct something to fit your mission and budget. In short, don't waste your time with Zoche. Besides which, 300 hp is WAY TOO MUCH FOR SAFE FLYING. Bob Fritz, fresh (hah!) from KOSH 98 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: The best laid plans
Date: Aug 03, 1998
Gary, can you give details on your rudder pedal breakage (floor mounted with or without mods already done, overhead mounte, etc.)? Thanks. Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA >Upon landing, my right rudder peddle broke from the weldment (luckily no other >damage> >Gary Corde >RV-6 N211GC - NJ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Leslie B. Williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Plane crash @ OSH
Date: Aug 03, 1998
The FAA Acicdent Investigation web site has it as a T-6 Texan, I believe. Les Williams/RV-6AQ/Tacoma WA > >Does anyone know the details of the crash at OSH? The news said, last night, >that it had crashed on a residential street near the airport. The picture >looked like an RV tail, although they didn't say what type plane it was. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lothar Klingmuller <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: The best laid plans
Date: Aug 04, 1998
Gary, can you tell us where it broke exactly? Possible cause?? thanks >Upon landing, my right rudder peddle broke from the weldment (luckily no other >damage). I spent most of Friday morning and the first part of the afternoon Lothar ||-6A|| Denver, CO || Ready to jig fuselage|| ________________________________________________________________________________
From: QmaxLLC(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 03, 1998
Subject: Re: Zoche aero diesel
<< For the past 10 years, everyone who has ever been to Oshkosh has seen or heard of the Zoche diesel. Each year they tell us they are going to demonstrate a running engine "next year". I have yet to see it. I believe they actually do have a running engine and have done some flight testing. Their engine concepts are among the best I have seen in this "race to be the first" aero-diesel. I just wish I could see the real thing. >> Another thing re. the Zoche, anybody care to comment on the options of either having two cylinders sticking 10 inches out above the cowling or a way-below- normal thrust line? This thing is a radial remember. Neat engineering what with no ignition system (diesel), valves (2 stroke), carb to ice up and a blower/supercharger to give altitude-be-damned power. And typical Teutonic detail with the Zoche emblem engraved into the bolts holding the heads on...really!!! Thing'll cost more than the rest of the entire airplane, I'll bet. Make a new IO360 look cheap. Pooped from 45 miles of hiking KOSH, Bob Fritz ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 03, 1998
Subject: Re: Oxygen Systems
<< Does anyone have an opinion on the Nelson Systems (now owned by Precise Flight) vs the Mountain High Systems (or any other system you like or dislike.) The main difference I see in the two is the regulator and attaching hardware since both use the Nelson A3 or A4 flowmeter and Oxymizer cannulas. >> I have the 13 cu ft Aerox system with the oxysaver rebreather cannulas in my 6A. I got it at Chief A/c and it cost $375 for the whole shebang. Easy to install and works great. We get 7 hrs of oxygen each (2) at 15,000 ft. -GV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: rice032(at)ibm.net
Subject: Re: Plane crash @ OSH
Date: Aug 03, 1998
> >Does anyone know the details of the crash at OSH? The news said, last night, >that it had crashed on a residential street near the airport. The picture >looked like an RV tail, although they didn't say what type plane it was. > The Wisconsin State Journal reported that the plane that crashed was a Spanish Jet Trainer. The pilot was able to get out, but is in serious condition while the female pilot was unable to escape the flames. The paper didn't say anything about why the plane crashed, but they did say that someone reported a "bad sounding" engine (whatever that means). Thanks to everyone for such a great show. I got to meet MoeJoe while oowing over an RV-8. Andy Rice ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 03, 1998
From: Gar Pessel <pessel(at)ptialaska.net>
Subject: rudder spar prepunch misalignment
I have a qb6, but am building the empennage for the experience before starting on the big stuff. Started the rudder with step 1-cleco the skins to the rear rudder spar. The top two prepunch holes in the spar flange on one side are spaced 1-1/8" instead of the 1-1/4" which seems to be the case elsewhere and on the other spar flange. Unfortunately, the skin holes are spaced 1-1/4" on both sides, so the holes do not match. If I drill a new hole in the spar to match the skin, it will just about figure 8. Should I just do this anyway, or try to get a new spar? Maybe a doubler? I dunno. Gar Pessel- Fairbanks AK (ready for inspection to close up the HS and VS) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Mack" <donmack(at)flash.net>
Subject: Re: Plane crash @ OSH
Date: Aug 03, 1998
The plane was a Spanish twin engine jet trainer. Initial reports was that it was too low on approach, no reason was given. It clipped the top off a tree then took off about 3 feet of a electrical/telephone pole and wire. Crashed in the street of a residential area of Oshkosh (the first crash of a plane during any convention outside the airport). The crash site was in line with the runway. It caught fire, the people in the neighborhood were able to get the pilot out, they could not get the female passenger out (presumed his wife). She died in the insuing fire. None of the neighbors wanted to be one TV. In the write-up in the paper the next day, it was fairly detailed and gruesome. Don Mack RV-6A Fuselage donmack(at)flash.net http://www.flash.net/~donmack -----Original Message----- From: rice032(at)ibm.net <rice032(at)ibm.net> Date: Monday, August 03, 1998 7:28 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Plane crash @ OSH > >> >>Does anyone know the details of the crash at OSH? The news said, last >night, >>that it had crashed on a residential street near the airport. The picture >>looked like an RV tail, although they didn't say what type plane it was. >> >The Wisconsin State Journal reported that the plane that crashed was a >Spanish Jet Trainer. The pilot was able to get out, but is in serious >condition while the female pilot was unable to escape the flames. The paper >didn't say anything about why the plane crashed, but they did say that >someone reported a "bad sounding" engine (whatever that means). >Thanks to everyone for such a great show. I got to meet MoeJoe while oowing >over an RV-8. > >Andy Rice > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Corbitt" <donc(at)analogia.com>
Subject: Clarification on Avionicss mailing list (#3)
Date: Aug 03, 1998
[This is my third attempt at sending this - for some reason the Matronics robot that detects clusers (clueless users) thinks this email is an unsubscr*be request. I've replaced the word "subscr ibe" with "subscr*be" in hopes of outwitting the robot. I suspect I'll fail this time because I'm not currently a member of the list, having been unsubscr*bed on my last attempts :-] After some suggestions and (self-described :-) whines from early subscr*bers, I've reorganized the Avionics mailing list I announced yesterday. 1) Purpose - my wife and I are hardware and software engineers, and I'm a new pilot. Seems like there has to be a way to deduct my flying time as a business expense. So I'm exploring whether or not there is a niche where we could design some avionics for (originally) experimental aircraft. 2) I created a mailing list designed to help me explore this idea - brainstorm(at)analogia.com. The purpose was to help in specifying and designing products that my two-person company could build and sell (and earn money from). I will be discussing product ideas, and perhaps even patentable stuff there, with potential customers and beta testers (y'all). Therefore this list is rather more private than the usual mailing list. I might even get to the point that I'll be sending out Non Disclosure Agreements at some point. This surprised a number of people who signed up for the Brainstorm list. They were looking for something a little more public. 3) So today I've created a new list - avionics(at)analogia.com - to be a totally open discussion mailing list about current and future GA avionics. Send a message to and you will be automatically signed up. You can get off by sending email to , and once you've joined the list you can send submissions directly to 4) Again, thanks to those who've already contributed to the list, and especially to those who suggested better ways for things to work. -- Don Corbitt, donc(at)analogia.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 03, 1998
From: John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com>
Subject: Cylinder tools
Didn't see any cylinder tools for sale at OSH but want to get some for the future. Where is a good place to purchase cylinder wrenches for an O-320? Also, what other special tools will I need to do an overhaul? Thanks in advance. John Kitz N721JK Ohio ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 03, 1998
From: John Perri <jperri(at)aros.net>
Subject: Re: Oxygen Systems
Get the Mountain High... spend the extra $'s for the electronic regulator.. JMP Ross Mickey wrote: > > I am looking into installing an oxygen system in my 6A. Does anyone have > an opinion on the Nelson Systems (now owned by Precise Flight) vs the > Mountain High Systems (or any other system you like or dislike.) The main > difference I see in the two is the regulator and attaching hardware since > both use the Nelson A3 or A4 flowmeter and Oxymizer cannulas. Mountain > High has a bigger selection of bottle sizes and are less expensive. > > > http://mtn-high.com/ for Mountain High > > Ross Mickey > cutting Plexiglas in the 90 degree heat > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 04, 1998
From: Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz>
Subject: Re: rudder spar prepunch misalignment
pessel(at)ptialaska.net wrote: > I have a qb6, but am building the empennage for the experience before > starting on the big stuff. Started the rudder with step 1-cleco the skins > to the rear rudder spar. The top two prepunch holes in the spar flange on > one side are spaced 1-1/8" instead of the 1-1/4" which seems to be the case > elsewhere and on the other spar flange. Unfortunately, the skin holes are > spaced 1-1/4" on both sides, so the holes do not match. If I drill a new > hole in the spar to match the skin, it will just about figure 8. Should I > just do this anyway, or try to get a new spar? Maybe a doubler? I dunno. First, complain to Vans. I dunno whether it'll make any difference (I complained too, about a year ago, and obviously Vans hasn't fixed the fault yet), but maybe if Vans gets enough complaints they'll do something??? IIRC, the error in mine was about 1/4". FWIW, I was told that the error was due to jitter in the drilling machine (yeah, right), and to just go ahead and drill a new hole in the right place to match the skin. Frank. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 03, 1998
From: Smidler <smidler(at)dcwi.com>
Subject: Onterio or Monterey CA area RV builders
I'll be in California this weekend on business and to watch my son play in the Baseball Bronco World Series. I was hoping to look at some finished RV-6's or -6a's or a project that is into the engine stage. I'll be in the Onterio area on Thursday night (8/6) and will be in the Monterey area on Saturday (8/8) and Sunday (8/9). Hope to meet some of the listers then. Frank Smidler RV-6, installing canopy Lafayette, IN 765-538-3166 (H) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 03, 1998
From: Smidler <smidler(at)dcwi.com>
Subject: Re: Plane crash @ OSH
I sorry to report that the pilot of the crashed CASA jet was Ed Snider of Lafayette, IN. He had kept the plane at the Purdue Univ. Airport. I live in Lafayette and the local news reported that the Woman was Ed's wife. I heard this evening that Ed also passed away from his injuries. I did not know the gentelman personally but I do greave the loss of any fellow flier. Frank Smidler TOMMY E. WALKER wrote: > > > Does anyone know the details of the crash at OSH? The news said, last night, > that it had crashed on a residential street near the airport. The picture > looked like an RV tail, although they didn't say what type plane it was. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: New Member
Date: Aug 03, 1998
From: "William H. Watson" <wmwatson(at)earthlink.net>
I don't have this original post, but I think "New Member" is in San Jose??? If you decide to build a 6 or 6A, I have various jigs, thing-a-bobs, trailing edge bender, etc to donate for the cause. I am building at Reid Hillview. My advice, if you can mange the $$$, is buy the quickbuild. The money I am paying in hanger/building space would pay for the quickbuild. (Of course, my time is free!) If you have a garage and time, the "experience" may be for you. >>That certainly made our minds up--we want one, we want one! The only >problem now is deciding which one we want to build: the RV6, 6a, or RV8? >>Thanks for your input! William H. Watson wmwatson(at)earthlink.net H: 650 254-1656 W: 408 553-4225 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 03, 1998
From: Edward Cole <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Cylinder tools
John Kitz wrote: > > > Didn't see any cylinder tools for sale at OSH but want to get some for > the future. Where is a good place to purchase cylinder wrenches for an > O-320? > Also, what other special tools will I need to do an overhaul? > > Thanks in advance. > John Kitz > N721JK > Ohio > John, Try Aircraft Tool Supply Co. 1-800-248-0638 p/n size price 2882-9/16 9/16 14.95 2882-1/2 1/2 14.95 2882-5/8 5/8 14.95 2882-3/4 3/4 14.95 2882-5 all 4 52.95 Ed Cole RV6A Fuse skins ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 03, 1998
Subject: Re: rudder spar prepunch misalignment
From: chriskelhand(at)Juno.com (Kellie D Hand)
< If I drill a new hole in the spar to match the skin, it will just about figure 8. Should I just do this anyway, or try to get a new spar?> I had the same question with my rudder (kit from July '96), Van's response was just drill the holes to match, and the edge distance on the "figure 8" wouldn't be a big deal for just that one rivet. Good luck, Chris Hand RV-6A, working on wings Seaside, CA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James E. Clark" <James.E.Clark(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Electric flap
Date: Aug 04, 1998
I had to go beyond that point (9.5") in order for the weldment to clear. That, I believe is the key driver for placement, followed by how much cover skin you for the sides. James RV6A-QB ... **almost** finished with electric flap motor; working on brakes and rudder pedals. -----Original Message----- From: mcomeaux <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> Date: Saturday, August 01, 1998 4:50 PM Subject: RV-List: Electric flap > >I'm installing the electric flap assembly in 6A-QB according the directions >in >the kit manual it indicates 9 1/2" forward of the f605 web to mount. And >the >flap kit indicates 10" forward any real differance here? > >Regards Mike Comeaux > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 04, 1998
From: MoeJoe <moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Osh Pics
Hi all. I got my Oshkosh pics up on my page. Take a look at the link below. Thanks to all who sent me links to their pages. I will add the links tommorrow night. Moe Colontonio moejoe(at)bellatlantic.net Check out my RV-8 page at: http://members.bellatlantic.net/~moejoe ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TOMRV4(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 04, 1998
Subject: Re: Plane crash @ OSH
In a message dated 8/3/98 8:45:31 PM Central Daylight Time, donmack(at)flash.net writes: > Does anyone know the details of the crash at OSH? I was a passenger in a Comanche piloted by a friend of mine who is also on the list (We left our RV-4's at home). We were waiting in line for departure from runway 27 at OSH on Sunday morning shortly after 9 am. I was filming aircraft landing and departing, when my friend mentioned over the intercom that he saw a plane with what he thought was an


July 23, 1998 - August 04, 1998

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