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December 16, 2001 - December 24, 2001

There was an article and parts list in a recent RVator about this, but I think it was for the RV-7. One could certainly build the parts for this and fit it in the RV-6. Don't know about the -8 seat rib set up to comment on that model. Marty in Brentwood TN ----- Original Message -----
From: "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)mpinet.net>
Subject: Crotch Strap
> > 6 Builders, > > How are people attaching the crotch strap to the Fuse. structure. Nothing in > the plans about this. > > Bill, RV-8 N48WD > Helping a friend finish his RV-6 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 16, 2001
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: RE: Elevator trim speed
> >I do remember a discussion on this. > >Here is a link to the Herga pressure switch. > >http://www.herga.com/pressure/products/6753.htm > >you would choose the switch with no bleed operating at a pressure of 8 in >WG. > >I calculate that this equates to 120 mph IAS pitot pressure (somebody check >this). > >The switch is SPNO so you would need a relay to switch between direct and >reduced input to the trim servo. > >Piers > At 120 mph the difference between pitot pressure and static pressure would be about 7.1 inches of water. 8 inches of water would be about 127 mph. There is a zipped Excel spreadsheet linked from my Flight Test Links page that does this calculation. http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/ftlinks.html http://www.cyberus.ca/~khorton/rvlinks/asi.zip -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics) Ottawa, Canada http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel flow rate measurement error
Date: Dec 16, 2001
> I have about 240 hours on my 6A with the flowscan 201 flowmeter reading > on an EIS. System has been very good until today. On a local flight it > started reading 4-5 times higher than actual flow. Interesting... my plane has a Floscan also, connected to a RMI monitor. On almost every cold start, it shows what is clearly an erroneously high flow rate, something like 7 or 8 gph at idle (after a good preheat, it doesn't always do it, so might be related to ambient temps). I am absolutely convinced the flow is not actually this high, as even leaning the idle to almost killing the engine doesn't correct the bogus reading. Somewhere during taxi or runup, it starts behaving normally, showing about 1.5 to 2 gph at fast idle. My engine is FI, and has no temperature compensation. Once this first glitch disappears, the flow indications are rock solid, not varying even in the tenths position once a power setting is established. My experience with preheat would seem to indicate that it is not my panel unit, since it remains cold. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN 6A N66AP flying 68 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: Re: Seat Belt Ends
Date: Dec 16, 2001
> I have Hooker Harnesses for my 6A. The lap belt ends have a short piece of > tubing inside the hole that rotates around the hole. This tubing is way > wider than the metal and wider than the two pieces of metal that I am > supposed to bolt them to. Do I drill the seat belt holders that are > attached to the spar to accept this whole assembly so the end will fit > between them or take the short sections out of the seat belt? I mangled the little tubes until I could remove them, and then put in a short length of aluminum tube to replace it. I still wanted the belt to be able to swivel in the tightened bolt. >I just bolted it to one side of the seat belt attach bracket. That piece of >tubing allows it to rotate around the AN-4 bolt that you attach it with. I'm not sure I understand what is being said, but it is important to get the seat belt piece in between the two steel seat belt anchors attached to the airframe. A significantly weaker junction would occur if the belt is bolted to the outside of the pair of anchors. I would recommend changing it if that is the case. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN 6A N66AP flying 68 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 16, 2001
From: tom sargent <sarg314(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: gascolator installation
Hi Eustace: I am installing my gascolator in the wing root of my RV-6A as you did in yours. I was wondering how you had the fuel lines penetrate the fuselage skin. Did you use the big rubber grommets or some sort of bulkhead connectors? (I've ordered a copy of the "21 Years of the RViator" book as I understand there's a picture of your installation in there, but I won't have it for several days yet.) Thanks for your advice. -- Tom Sargent. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: Seat Belt Ends
Date: Dec 16, 2001
Paul, If I'm reading this correctly, your belt is NOT sandwiched between the steel brackets. If so, you have significantly weakened the attachment by creating a single shear attachment instead of the normal double-shear design. You really ought to change it. Regards, Greg Young RV-6 N6GY Houston (DWH) RIP Searching for Navion > > I just bolted it to one side of the seat belt attach bracket. > That piece of > tubing allows it to rotate around the AN-4 bolt that you attach it with. > > Paul Besing > RV-6A N197AB Arizona > http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing > Flying > Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software > http://www.kitlog.com > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> > To: > Subject: RV-List: Seat Belt Ends > > > > > > I have Hooker Harnesses for my 6A. The lap belt ends have a short piece > of > > tubing inside the hole that rotates around the hole. This tubing is way > > wider than the metal and wider than the two pieces of metal that I am > > supposed to bolt them to. Do I drill the seat belt holders that are > > attached to the spar to accept this whole assembly so the end will fit > > between them or take the short sections out of the seat belt? > The ends of > > the belts that attached the shoulder harness and the crotch strap do not > > have this short piece of rotating tubing in them. > > > > Ross Mickey > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 16, 2001
From: dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Riveting the Trim Tab
Bobby- I used a bucking bar to attach the one side of the hinge and it was a pain to get a bar in there. I wished that I had taken the hinge apart.... -Dag From: Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> RV7and7A Subject: RV-List: Riveting the Trim Tab Ok I've got the spare riveted in by back riveting. Now I've got the hinge drilled and ready to rivet. How do I rivet it? Should I rivet it to Horizonal stabalizer with my hand squeezer and then try to buck it on the Trim tab? -- Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/ Finishing RV7A empannage :-) ==== ***************** Dag Adamson 617 513 1182 Natick, MA ***************** ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Michel Boucher" <michelboucher594(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Hand Propping
Date: Dec 16, 2001
Similar situation happened in Brantford a few years back. Pilot of a small biplane nicely tied the tailwheel, hand propped, untied tail, picked up his helmet from his seat , accidentely hit the throttle and it went straight for the hangar door. One good recommendation is always turn the fuel off prior to hand propping alone. It will idle for a long time that way but won't go very far with any power. Michel RV81117 wiring -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Eustace Bowhay Subject: RV-List: Hand Propping The first job I had after getting out of the RCAF after WW ll. was instructing and flying charter with a small flying school and charter operation at Calgary, Alberta. They had taken delivery of two of the first Aeronca Champs produced after the war, for those not familiar with them they are a two place high wing tandem taildragger, rag and tube construction with dual controls, heel brakes and in those days equipped with a 65 HP Continental and later a 85 HP turning a wood prop. They had no electrical system, no starter and the instruments consisted of a tachometer, airspeed indicator ,venturi tube T&B and a compass. The instructor sat in the back so had very little forward visibility. The first thing we did with a new student was completely familiarize them with the starting procedure, parked into wind, full up elevator,throttle setting, priming (they were equipped with a plunge type primer) holding the brakes and handling the mags. The student sat in the front seat and followed the instructions as called out by the instructor who did the swing. Started on the left mag (retarded) only and throttle set just above idle, doing this several times a day you got to know just how much prime was required and it usually would start on the first swing, student would come back to idle so you could get the door open wide enough to hop in. The early models had no parking brake and the heal brakes didn't supply much drag so one had to be real careful with the throttle. Using chocks is not really an option since you have to dig them out with the engine running. That first year I sat in the back seat for 1120 hours and had about 1400 starts with no real starting thrills until one day a rather impatient fellow that we had sold a Champ to decided to start and leave on his own. He was parked about a hundred yards away in front of our hangar. He propped it with the throttle well advanced and of course no brakes, he just had time to jump out of the way and grab the struts as it went by, this started a wide circling maneuver on the ramp. I ran out to see what was going on and here is this guy hanging to the strut with his heals dug in on the asphalt and the champ is gradually picking up speed, I don,t know what came first either he ran out of wind or his heels wore down to his socks but he had to let go and the Champ straightened out and headed right at the hangar doors. Fortunately they were closed and were about four inches thick, the hangar was full of aircraft. The champ just got airborne as it hit the hanger door, from the inside you could see the crankshaft sticking through. Needless to say it didn't do the Champ any good. Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Where to buy fire extinguisher?
Date: Dec 16, 2001
I want to buy a 2.5 lb Halon Hand held fire extinguisher. Where is the best price? I have found one for $139 from http://www.ioportracing.com/fire.htm Sporty's has them for $180 ID #: 7941A http://www.sportys.com/acb/webpage.cfm?&DID=19&WebPage_ID=68 Ross ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 16, 2001
Subject: [ Tim Webber ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Tim Webber Subject: Moving Map Display http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/tbertw@tenbuckplans.com.12.16.2001/index.html -------------------------------------------- o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. o Main Photo Share Index: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare -------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 16, 2001
Subject: Re: Where to buy fire extinguisher?
In a message dated 12/16/01 11:35:18 AM Pacific Standard Time, rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com writes: > I want to buy a 2.5 lb Halon Hand held fire extinguisher. Where is the best > price? I have found one for $139 from http://www.ioportracing.com/fire.htm > > Sporty's has them for $180 ID #: 7941A > http://www.sportys.com/acb/webpage.cfm?&DID=19&WebPage_ID=68 For Halon Fire Extinguishers try Chief at $120 for their 2.5 pounder w/bracket. Their 3.5 pounder w/bracket is $140. Sporty's is never a good value if you can find the same items elsewhere. Having said that, Hal Shevers of Sporty's is a great benefactor to the aviation community and gives an awful lot of money back, so he's a great corporate citizen and deserving of admiration and your business. He just operates under a different business model than does Chief. -GV (RV-6A N1GV) vanremog(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HillStw(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 16, 2001
Subject: positech oil cooler
Don't want to start a long thread, but would like to know if any have had experience with having the factory modify or replace the positech. Mine, bought through Vans about 18 months ago, looks strong and good, but I would like more cooling capacity. Positech is willing to remake or exchange it; how much more cooling could I expect??? Thanks. hillstw(at)aol.com Jimmy Hill RV8A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 16, 2001
From: doyal plute <dplute(at)onemain.com>
Subject: Tach problems
I am installing the instruments in my new RV6A. I find that when I turn the master switch on the tach reads 1500 RPM. I have replaced the tach sender but it still reads 1500. I think this should read zero until the engine is started. I read an article a few years ago stating that the tach sender was really just a very small generator and that it would read battery voltage until engine start. Anyone out there using Vans gauges have this problem? Let me know. Thanks: Doyal R. Plute ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 16, 2001
Subject: Re: positech oil cooler
In a message dated 12/16/01 3:45:14 PM Eastern Standard Time, HillStw(at)aol.com writes: << Don't want to start a long thread, but would like to know if any have had experience with having the factory modify or replace the positech. Mine, bought through Vans about 18 months ago, looks strong and good, but I would like more cooling capacity. Positech is willing to remake or exchange it; how much more cooling could I expect??? Thanks. hillstw(at)aol.com Jimmy Hill RV8A >> I spoke with the factory on this one. They indicated a 50% increase in cooling capacity after getting it re-cored. Frankly, I find that hard to believe. I sent my Positech off a couple of weeks ago, but it hasn't come back, so I can't offer a field report. Kyle Boatright 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider Kennesaw, GA http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: temperature to proseal
Date: Dec 16, 2001
Paul, The tanks have been a fairly positive experience for me so far. I might be singing a different tune after I leak-test them! To answer your question, the temp in your garage is perfect. The proseal will last as long as you are working on it. To effect a quicker cure, place them in a warmer environment. This is where an understanding spouse helps greatly. After each prosealing session, I put my tanks in the bathtub in our seldom-used first floor bathroom and closed the door. The temp in there was higher than the rest of the house due to the closed door, and the proseal was non-tacky within 2 days. Closing the door also helps keep the odor contained, although neither my wife nor I really mind the smell. The only bad smelling part of proseal is the white stuff that smells like rotten eggs. Jim Bower RV-6A St. Louis, MO Tanks (for the memories) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: Hand Propping
Date: Dec 16, 2001
Actually Mark, I couldn't agree more. -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA Network Administrator Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 -----Original Message----- From: czechsix(at)juno.com [mailto:czechsix(at)juno.com] Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2001 11:44 PM To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: Hand Propping Scott, I think there's good reason to be concerned about hand-propping dangers. Your comparison to hand-propping for those who have only used electric starters being like taildraggers for tri-gear pilots may not be a comfort for those of us who know experienced tail-dragger pilots who have ground looped, flipped over, or otherwise piled up their taildragger : ) Applying this logic to handpropping might bring one to the correct conclusion that even with proper training and technique, you can still get hurt hand-propping an airplane. I learned the proper technique in A&P school and have hand-propped a number of engine-prop-aircraft combinations just like you. Even propped an R-985 one time (it worked out ok but I wouldn't do it again). But I've also been injured by a handpropping incident where the engine kicked back and slapped my hand so hard I had several fingers swollen and purple for a few weeks. Fortunately I was using proper technique....I did NOT have my fingertips curled over the edge of the blade, or it probably would have taken them off altogether. I also know a guy who was handpropping a Cessna and somehow slipped and got hit in the head with a metal prop. I'm not sure what happened because I didn't see it, but he was a mechanic with 30+ years experience. It's a miracle that he survived the incident and isn't even a vegetable at that. Just my humblest opinion, that if it can possibly be avoided, don't hand prop.... and if it must be done, make sure you do know the correct technique and if you are working with someone (i.e. they are in the cockpit and you are propping it) make sure they know what to do too. No flame intended, just my two cents... --Mark Navratil Cedar Rapids, Iowa RV-8A waiting for finish kit....and waiting.....and waiting..... _______ From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: HAND PROP - Towl Trick.... Hand propping has the same mystique to it for those who are used to electric starters as tailwheel aircraft do to those who have only flown nosewheels. It's only mysterious and scary until you've been taught the "propper" (pun intended) way to do it and done it a few times. Or in my case a few hundred times. I've propped Cubs, Champs, 150s and 172s. Actually the most difficult was the C-150 because the prop is so low to the ground. Luckily so am I so there wasn't much problem. -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA Network Administrator Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 -----Original Message----- From: Don Hyde [mailto:DonH(at)axonn.com] Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: HAND PROP - Towl Trick.... Thanks for this trick. This way I just may someday work up the nerve to pull an engine through. As a youth I got my hand whacked a few times by a prop attached to a .15 cu. in. model engine. The result was a few bandaids, and I healed in a few days. I still remember how that witches-brew fuel made the cuts sting. The thought of getting mixed up in a prop attached to 300+ cu. in. gives me a worse scare than anything else in aviation. This is especially true when I'm in front of a rented Cessna where I have never even had a chance to examine the 30-year-old wires and ignition switch that are supposed to be making those magnetos safe. Cars lost their cranks 75 years ago, and it takes a really die-hard nostalgia enthusiast to miss them. My mother was just old enough to have seen her father hurt himself more than once cranking the family model T. If 20 horses with ridiculously low compression can break your arm, I'm not sorry I missed it a bit. Contributions of other form messages. members. http://www.matronics.com/subscription http://www.matronics.com/browselist/rv-list http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Condition Inspection Log Entires
Date: Dec 16, 2001
Could someone please provide me with the proper wording for log book entries for a condition inspection? Thanks! Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 107 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "CiminoJim" <CiminoJim(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: positech oil cooler
Date: Dec 16, 2001
I can't speak for the modified coolers, but I have a Positech that I bought from Van's two years ago and have it mounted on the firewall. I have not seen temps over 180 with outside temps over 80. I used a three inch hose to a custom cooling attachment that blows the air at an angle across the fins and then down through. This gets air to the whole cooler instead of just the center. Works great for me. Jim ----- Original Message ----- From: <HillStw(at)aol.com> Subject: RV-List: positech oil cooler > > Don't want to start a long thread, but would like to know if any have had > experience with having the factory modify or replace the positech. Mine, > bought through Vans about 18 months ago, looks strong and good, but I would > like more cooling capacity. Positech is willing to remake or exchange it; > how much more cooling could I expect??? > > Thanks. > > hillstw(at)aol.com > Jimmy Hill > RV8A > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 16, 2001
From: John McMahon <rv6(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Canopy paper
Does anyone know what type of clear paper that protects the canopy inside and out??? It's Sunday and I want to put clear contact paper on it but I really don't know if it will hurt it... John McMahon Canopy" ugggggh" ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 16, 2001
Subject: Re: Attaching Flap Hinge
From: "Michael Stephan" <mstephan(at)shr.net>
I have one thing that I would have done differently. Think about how and when to rivet the flap brace to the rear wing spar. The flap brace needs to be machine countersunk to accept the dimples in the wing skin. Having it riveted to the wing spar makes this a very difficult near impossible task. If you leave it clecoed then after drilling the hinge you can remove it and machine countersink the flap brace. -- Michael Stephan ---------- >From: dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Attaching Flap Hinge >Date: Sat, Dec 15, 2001, 8:27 AM > > > Hello- > > I have an -8A QB (yes, I know that I took the easy > way-please don't make fun of me) and will be attching > the flaps in the coming week. > > I would welcome any input/direction for hinge > attachments. > Thanks > Dag > > ==== > ***************** > Dag Adamson > 617 513 1182 > Natick, MA > ***************** > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 16, 2001
Subject: Re: RE: Elevator trim speed
I timed my 1996-vintage MAC trim system with no speed controller today: 13 seconds for full travel. I have plenty of authority for trimming to 65 mph IAS on final, and have never come close to using all the nose-down trim that remains available as the system is currently set up. Methinks I could lengthen the control horn, re0center the travel, and have all the trim I ever needed in both directions, yet less sensitivity that before (which would be good, as it is too sensitive now). Bill Boyd RV-6A O-320/Sensenich FP Hop-Along Air Field, 12VA Clifton Forge, VA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 16, 2001
Subject: gear leg stiffeners
I will add my experience to date to the list discussion of gear leg stiffeners, from the perspective of an RV-6A pilot. I am in the middle of the long process of changing over from the old Van's one-piece wheelpants and molded in place leg fairings to the 2-pc pants and Team Rocket fairings. I say "long process" because it is time consuming to fill all the pinholes in the Van's wheelpants with acrylic glaze putty and sand until your fingertips are raw, and it adds time to the project to keep taking the plane down off the jacks in order to fly it, then put it back up for more work...) As I said, I am not yet finished, but I have arrived at an interesting juncture, where for the first time ever, I can evaluate the effect of the gear leg stiffeners on the performance of the 6A gear. The first thing I noted, as I posted earlier, is that the gear leg stiffeners are in fact highly corrosive, and resulted in deep pitting of the mains (but interestingly none on the nose gear leg). That has been dealt with as best I know how, short of replacement. I have now had the opportunity to fly with totally naked gear for the first time. It is slow. 75% power delivers about 160 mph IAS. No real surprise there. The real difference is the landing. I was expecting, in fact braced for, a bad shimmy on the turf runway when I eased it on the first time. What I am pleased to report is that every landing since getting rid of the stiffeners has been great! The airplane sticks to my bumpy turf strip like it had Velcro on it... no tendency to bounce or porpoise at all. These are preliminary results, and have not been attempted on asphalt yet, nor with the pants installed, or the leg fairings, all of which are necessary for a "true test." But if the results hold, I will NOT be installing stiffeners on my plane again. If they don't, I will consider the selection of fiberglass farm fencing rods available instead of 'glassing wood and or foam to my poor little rustable landing gear. Just thought I'd throw that out to the crowd, since, at this very moment, somewhere, some builder is at the point where he must decide whether to stiffen or not to stiffen, and this may help him decide. Bill Boyd RV-6A O-320/Sensenich FP Hop-Along Air Field, 12VA Clifton Forge, VA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Harvey Sigmon" <flyhars(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Tach problems
Date: Dec 16, 2001
Doyal: My experience with the Tach was like you experienced. When I initially installed my Van's RPM indicator I also got a rise in rpm with the engine stopped. What I found was I had reversed the S and G terminals. Should be Black from sender to the instrument G and an additional ground from indicator to aircraft ground; White from sender to S terminal. Worked good after that. My mistakes hope this helps. Harvey Sigmon RV-6A N602RV 40 hours > [Original Message] > From: doyal plute <dplute(at)onemain.com> > To: rv6-list(at)matronics.com > Date: 12/16/01 5:07:16 PM > Subject: RV-List: Tach problems > > > I am installing the instruments in my new RV6A. I find that when I turn > the master switch on the tach reads 1500 RPM. I have replaced the tach > sender but it still reads 1500. I think this should read zero until the > engine is started. I read an article a few years ago stating that the > tach sender was really just a very small generator and that it would > read battery voltage until engine start. Anyone out there using Vans > gauges have this problem? Let me know. > Thanks: > Doyal R. Plute > > > > > --- Harvey Sigmon --- flyhars(at)earthlink.net --- EarthLink: It's your Internet. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Harvey Sigmon" <flyhars(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Flap Problems
Date: Dec 16, 2001
Listers: Need advice on intermittent operation of flaps in flight. What I experience from time to time flaps will not extend from 20 degrees to full. Some times flaps will not retract from full down to up. At times when you start engine and attempt to retract flaps an arching sound can be heard through the headset with the radios operating. I am using the flap switch that Van supplied in the kit. Getting a little concerned as afraid flaps might stick down. Thanks in advance. Harvey Sigmon RV-6A N602RV flying 40 hours --- Harvey Sigmon --- flyhars(at)earthlink.net --- EarthLink: It's your Internet. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 16, 2001
Subject: Re: Flap Problems
HARVY i would suggest you trace out your flap wiring circuit. sounds as it might be chaffed against the metal somewhere.possibly where the wires and motor meet. since you are only experiencing while the flap bar is moving. anyway it sounds like you should fix it before flying again. if itis chaffing you could blow up your battery, melt some wires, smoke the flap motor, i can't think of anything good happening. fix it. then fly. scott tampa ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robin Wessel" <robin.wessel(at)verizon.net>
Subject: positech oil cooler
Date: Dec 16, 2001
Jimmy- Positech will replace yours free of charge. Talk to Bryan (number on their web site). Be patient, as it took them 2 months to get a new one over to me. I gave Positech a credit card number so that they could guarantee my core return. I have not done any extensive tests yet but it appears to cool about 15 deg better. robin wessel RV-6A Tigard OR http://robin.getbiz.net Don't want to start a long thread, but would like to know if any have had experience with having the factory modify or replace the positech. Mine, bought through Vans about 18 months ago, looks strong and good, but I would like more cooling capacity. Positech is willing to remake or exchange it; how much more cooling could I expect??? Thanks. hillstw(at)aol.com Jimmy Hill RV8A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ted Fields" <tbird(at)ptsi.net>
Subject: RV6 A
Date: Dec 16, 2001
I have a RV6 with a Buick V8 engine. How does one hook up a carb heat with the breather on top. Thanks for any help in advance Ted Fields Guymon OK. N8706D & N4344X Experimental ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: GAN interview & baby announcement!
Date: Dec 17, 2001
> > >Kudos to RV-8 builder Brian Denk for the nice job on his interview with GAN >(General Aviaion News). They ran a "Builders Report" section on page 40 of >December 7 issue and interviewed him. Clear thoughtful answers like this >will go a long way toward giving the proper impression to those considering >building. >Good job Brian! > >Randy Lervold >RV-8, #80500, 140.5 hrs Aw gee, wasn't nuthin. If my comments can help a prospective builder to make an informed decision to build, or not to build, then it's worth the effort. Too many "orphaned" RV kits out there! Oh, by the way *drumroll*...Skyler Ray Denk was born Monday night, 7 lbs, 19 inches, blue eyes, brown hair, and dimples to die for. He's sooo cuuuuute! So, I've built an airplane, and created a human being. What next? ;) Happy Holidays ya'll Brian Denk RV8 N94BD C'mon RV-10! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvmils(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 16, 2001
Subject: annual inspection entries
Could someone also provide me with the proper wording for log book entries for an annual inspection, I'm doing the inspection now and was looking in the FAR/AIM and didn't see anything on the look book entries. Thanks, Carey Mills RV4 211hrs first year ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 16, 2001
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Condition Inspection Log Entires
--- Dennis Persyk wrote: > > > Could someone please provide me with the proper wording for log book > entries > for a condition inspection? > Thanks! > Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 107 hours > There are actually 3 entries. One in each of the three log books. (Airframe, Engine, and propeller.) For the Airframe: I certify that this aircraft has been inspected in accordance with a "Condition" Inspection and have determined that it is in a condition for safe operation. Signature "Certificate Type" "Number of Certificate". Because I have an A&P License, I typically will end after the inspection type "in an airworty condition" instead of conditon for safe operation. If you look at your operating limitations, you will find that you do not do an annual inspection but a condition inspection at least every year. For the engine and propeller, made the same entry in the other two logs but subsitute engine or propeller for the word "aircraft" as stated above. You MUST use a written check list for the condition inspection. ==== Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 990.5+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: RV6 A
Date: Dec 16, 2001
You are looking for an alternate air flapper to suck warm air from around an exhaust pipe. With that said, most automotive intake manifolds have a passage to heat the carburetor by the exhaust or a hot water passage. There is generally a "heat stove" for the automatic choke as part of this system. If you use an aircraft carb, then you must use alternate air. Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh Editor, EAA Safety Programs cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org http://www.eaa.org for latest flying rules Always looking for articles for the Experimenter ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ted Fields" <tbird(at)ptsi.net> Subject: RV-List: RV6 A I have a RV6 with a Buick V8 engine. How does one hook up a carb heat with the breather on top. Thanks for any help in advance Ted Fields Guymon OK. N8706D & N4344X Experimental ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Re: Flap Problems
Date: Dec 16, 2001
Harvey, Kind of sounds like a ground problem. I would start there. Make sure your flap motor and switch are fully grounded and the connections are clean. Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS RV-6A N57ME (Flying) www.ericsrv6a.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Harvey Sigmon <flyhars(at)earthlink.net> Subject: RV-List: Flap Problems > > > Listers: Need advice on intermittent operation of flaps in flight. What I > experience from time to time flaps will not extend from 20 degrees to full. > Some times flaps will not retract from full down to up. At times when you > start engine and attempt to retract flaps an arching sound can be heard > through the headset with the radios operating. I am using the flap switch > that Van supplied in the kit. Getting a little concerned as afraid flaps > might stick down. Thanks in advance. > Harvey Sigmon RV-6A N602RV flying 40 hours > > --- Harvey Sigmon > --- flyhars(at)earthlink.net > --- EarthLink: It's your Internet. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: GAN interview & baby announcement!
Date: Dec 16, 2001
Congratulations! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: GAN interview & baby announcement! > > >Kudos to RV-8 builder Brian Denk for the nice job on his interview with GAN >(General Aviaion News). They ran a "Builders Report" section on page 40 of >December 7 issue and interviewed him. Clear thoughtful answers like this >will go a long way toward giving the proper impression to those considering >building. >Good job Brian! > >Randy Lervold >RV-8, #80500, 140.5 hrs Aw gee, wasn't nuthin. If my comments can help a prospective builder to make an informed decision to build, or not to build, then it's worth the effort. Too many "orphaned" RV kits out there! Oh, by the way *drumroll*...Skyler Ray Denk was born Monday night, 7 lbs, 19 inches, blue eyes, brown hair, and dimples to die for. He's sooo cuuuuute! So, I've built an airplane, and created a human being. What next? ;) Happy Holidays ya'll Brian Denk RV8 N94BD C'mon RV-10! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: Re: Canopy paper
Date: Dec 16, 2001
> Does anyone know what type of clear paper > that protects the canopy inside and out??? > It's Sunday and I want to put clear contact paper > on it but I really don't know if it will hurt it... > I did a test a few years ago with contact paper (it is really vinyl, I don't know why they still call it paper) on scraps of plexiglass. It really crazed the stressed areas - I bent the scrap of plexiglass to induce stress. I would absolutely not put that stuff on a canopy, but is is great for protecting aluminum. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN 6A N66AP flying 68 hours (inverted work yesterday, gotta vacuum the grit out before I do that again! It all piles up on the canopy directly above your head, and then comes back down right in your face.) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wes" <whays(at)camalott.com>
Subject: Re: positech oil cooler
Date: Dec 16, 2001
Jimmy, Positech replaced my old Positech with the new improved model. I got it installed about the end of September. I had been having some heating problems and I was really surprised at OSH when they offered to replace it at no charge. I recorded the max temps before and after and it appears that it has improved the cooling about 14%. Keep in mind though that the highest temps I saw were in the middle of Texas summers. I really don't know if it will do that well next summer or not, but we will see. With the original cooler, temps at cruise were around 210F. and after taxi got as high as 226F. Since the new cooler was installed, my average temp at cruise has dropped to about 186F and the oil temp after taxi is down to 200 or below. The average oil temperature has dropped to about 115F above ambient. Ambient temperatures after the new cooler was installed have been as low as 50F to 83F so we really haven't seen any hot weather yet. At the latter part of the testing, I was running the engine at about 70 to 79% power. I have all this down on a spread sheet. If you would like a copy, please e-mail me privately and I will be glad to forward it to you. Please understand I really did not do this very scientifically so no flames please. I freely admit there is quite a bit I do not know about proper testing. All in all, I would say it is well worth the change to the new improved cooler. YMMV, Wes Hays Winters, TX N844WB RV-6A O-360 A1A with Hartzell C/S. 195 hours + "The Laws of Aerodynamics are unforgiving and the ground is hard." Michael Collins (1987) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 16, 2001
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: [ PLEASE READ ] : Matronics Network Upgrade Mon. 12/17/01
Listers, According to my ISP, Speakeasy, they will be doing some sort of "backbone upgrade" Monday, 12/17/01. Their message doesn't mention whether or not this will impact connectivity for any length of time. I wanted everyone to know that there might be a time when access to the Matronics Web Server and Email Lists might be unavailable. If there's a problem, I'll post a message from a different email address with details. Bottom line: Hopefully nobody will notice... Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Admin. Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
,
Subject: Fw: info pack
Date: Dec 16, 2001
Finally got some info about the ATP powerplant... )_( Dan dan(at)rvproject.com http://www.rvproject.com:8000 Dear Sir, Here is some information on the 6.5 uncertified turbine engine. Weight 185 lbs Length 32'' overall to prop flange Diameter 12 1/2" maximum located at the hot section 10" diameter of gearbox Height 16" overall located at accessory pad on gearbox Burns JetA, Kerosene, Diesel and Gasoline The preferred fuels are JetA and Kerosene Four point conical mount 20 to 1 double planetary gearbox Gearbox designed for 500 hp continuous 600 hp peak Example ( If turbine is turning 60,000 rpm prop turning 3000 rpm) Single stage radial flow turbine centrifugal compressor Electronic fuel injection Electronic ignition 120hp 10.7 gals/hr 300 lbs thrust at 2650 rpm 180hp 13.3 gals/hr 450lbs thrust at 2750 rpm 240hp 16.6 gals/hr 600lbs thrust at 3000rpm maximum rpm at propeller 3200 rpm usable rpm range in fight 2500 to 3200 rpm Designed to operate efficiently at variable rpm We already have a pusher. We plan on debuting it at Sun n Fun 2002. Production starts in Jan. 2002. We are offering a pre-production price of 23,000.00 only by putting down your deposit of 25%. We will soon be able to accept your deposit on a secure area of our website. Thanks for interest in ATP if you are in need of further information please feel free to email or call. You can visit our web page at www.atpcoinc.com or the ATP Yahoo Group at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ATP1 We hope to hear from you soon! Take Care, Heather L. Mitchell Director of Internet Sales -- On Sat, 3 Nov 2001 10:08:43 Dan Checkoway wrote: >Please send me as much information as possible, including the info video if >it's available. > >Dan Checkoway >2420 N. Flower St. >Santa Ana, CA 92706 > >Thanks, >)_( Dan >dan(at)rvproject.com >http://www.rvproject.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 16, 2001
Subject: Re: Fw: info pack
From: Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org>
Okay, so that's about 0.58 lb/hp.h in cruise, as opposed to maybe 0.42-0.45 lb/hp.h for a piston. What's the price of Jet A these days, vis-a-vis the price of avgas? Tedd McHenry Surrey, BC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Textor" <jack(at)IaJobs.com>
Subject: Pushrod question?
Date: Dec 17, 2001
Good morning, When trying to fit the threaded ends onto the steel pushrods (bellcrank to aileron) I found the fit to be very tight. Is it normal to have to ream out the tube or file down the fitting? Thanks! Jack Textor RV8, wings DSM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John & Teresa Huft" <widgeon92L(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Fw: info pack
Date: Dec 17, 2001
Interesting... A few years ago, a gang of 180/185 club members got to testing different props. They used a hydraulic tension meter (like a hefty fish scale), attached to the bumper of a pick-up, and tested every airplane in sight (it was a club flyin). These are static thrust numbers. Low - 78" Hartzell Scimitar prop on a 230 Hp o-470 (C-180) - 740 pounds of thrust High - 88" McCauley 401 prop on a 300 Hp IO-520 (C-185) - 1120 pounds of thrust I wonder how that relates to the numbers given by ATP? Kevin? John -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway SoCAL-RVlist(at)yahoogroups.com; rv7-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: Fw: info pack Finally got some info about the ATP powerplant... )_( Dan dan(at)rvproject.com http://www.rvproject.com:8000 Dear Sir, Here is some information on the 6.5 uncertified turbine engine. Weight 185 lbs Length 32'' overall to prop flange Diameter 12 1/2" maximum located at the hot section 10" diameter of gearbox Height 16" overall located at accessory pad on gearbox Burns JetA, Kerosene, Diesel and Gasoline The preferred fuels are JetA and Kerosene Four point conical mount 20 to 1 double planetary gearbox Gearbox designed for 500 hp continuous 600 hp peak Example ( If turbine is turning 60,000 rpm prop turning 3000 rpm) Single stage radial flow turbine centrifugal compressor Electronic fuel injection Electronic ignition 120hp 10.7 gals/hr 300 lbs thrust at 2650 rpm 180hp 13.3 gals/hr 450lbs thrust at 2750 rpm 240hp 16.6 gals/hr 600lbs thrust at 3000rpm maximum rpm at propeller 3200 rpm usable rpm range in fight 2500 to 3200 rpm Designed to operate efficiently at variable rpm We already have a pusher. We plan on debuting it at Sun n Fun 2002. Production starts in Jan. 2002. We are offering a pre-production price of 23,000.00 only by putting down your deposit of 25%. We will soon be able to accept your deposit on a secure area of our website. Thanks for interest in ATP if you are in need of further information please feel free to email or call. You can visit our web page at www.atpcoinc.com or the ATP Yahoo Group at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ATP1 We hope to hear from you soon! Take Care, Heather L. Mitchell Director of Internet Sales -- On Sat, 3 Nov 2001 10:08:43 Dan Checkoway wrote: >Please send me as much information as possible, including the info video if >it's available. > >Dan Checkoway >2420 N. Flower St. >Santa Ana, CA 92706 > >Thanks, >)_( Dan >dan(at)rvproject.com >http://www.rvproject.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net>
Subject: Re: GAN interview & baby announcement!
Date: Dec 17, 2001
Congrats on creating both, and nice article!! John "JT" Helms ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: GAN interview & baby announcement! > > >Kudos to RV-8 builder Brian Denk for the nice job on his interview with GAN >(General Aviaion News). They ran a "Builders Report" section on page 40 of >December 7 issue and interviewed him. Clear thoughtful answers like this >will go a long way toward giving the proper impression to those considering >building. >Good job Brian! > >Randy Lervold >RV-8, #80500, 140.5 hrs Aw gee, wasn't nuthin. If my comments can help a prospective builder to make an informed decision to build, or not to build, then it's worth the effort. Too many "orphaned" RV kits out there! Oh, by the way *drumroll*...Skyler Ray Denk was born Monday night, 7 lbs, 19 inches, blue eyes, brown hair, and dimples to die for. He's sooo cuuuuute! So, I've built an airplane, and created a human being. What next? ;) Happy Holidays ya'll Brian Denk RV8 N94BD C'mon RV-10! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "d. wayne stiles" <dwstiles(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:landing gear leg stiffeners
Date: Dec 17, 2001
FWIW; Among my other vices I am a bowhunter. In addition of the solid fibreglas rod electric fence rods as potential leg stiffeners; you might stop by an archery shop and take a look at the graphite & epoxy arrow shafting that is in common use. it comes in various sizes and has a very high stiffness to weight ratio. In some cases the smallest diameters can be inserted and glued inside the larger ones for exceptional rigidity. With a light scuff sanding it can be glued with epoxies and cyanoacrilate (sp?) "crazy" glues. Wayne ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com>
Subject: Re: Pushrod question?
Date: Dec 17, 2001
Yes, but just some light sanding with emery cloth to the inside of the tube and the fitting is all that is needed. Carl Froehlich RV-8A (getting close) Vienna, VA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jack Textor" <jack(at)IaJobs.com> Subject: RV-List: Pushrod question? > > Good morning, > When trying to fit the threaded ends onto the steel pushrods (bellcrank to > aileron) I found the fit to be very tight. Is it normal to have to ream out > the tube or file down the fitting? Thanks! > Jack Textor > RV8, wings > DSM > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 17, 2001
From: Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net>
Subject: Re: Fw: info pack
That's an impressive (I should say "unbelievable") fuel consumption/HP (SBFC) for a jet engine. I wonder at what altitude those numbers are "true". The big producers of jet engines (P&W, GE, etc.) must be green with envy. Finn Dan Checkoway wrote: > > Finally got some info about the ATP powerplant... > > )_( Dan > dan(at)rvproject.com > ... > 120hp 10.7 gals/hr 300 lbs thrust at 2650 rpm > 180hp 13.3 gals/hr 450lbs thrust at 2750 rpm > 240hp 16.6 gals/hr 600lbs thrust at 3000rpm ---------------------------------------------------- Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today Only $9.95 per month! http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: positech oil cooler
Date: Dec 17, 2001
Jimmy, I can echo Robbin's comments, except mine arrived in about (1) week. We did notice that the new cooler had significantly greater spacing between the row than the old one. Brain we very good to deal with. We are down for annual inspection but I'll let the list know how it works out. Chuck & Dave Rowbotham RV-8A (47 hours) Niantic, CT >From: "Robin Wessel" <robin.wessel(at)verizon.net> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: RE: RV-List: positech oil cooler >Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 18:52:21 -0800 > > >Jimmy- > >Positech will replace yours free of charge. Talk to Bryan (number on their >web site). Be patient, as it took them 2 months to get a new one over to >me. >I gave Positech a credit card number so that they could guarantee my core >return. > >I have not done any extensive tests yet but it appears to cool about 15 deg >better. > >robin wessel >RV-6A Tigard OR >http://robin.getbiz.net > > >Don't want to start a long thread, but would like to know if any have had >experience with having the factory modify or replace the positech. Mine, >bought through Vans about 18 months ago, looks strong and good, but I would >like more cooling capacity. Positech is willing to remake or exchange it; >how much more cooling could I expect??? > >Thanks. > >hillstw(at)aol.com >Jimmy Hill >RV8A > > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: positech oil cooler
Date: Dec 17, 2001
I am interested in the improved Positech cooler. A few questions: 1) Was it an exchange or new unit? 2) If exchange, what was turnaround time? 3) What was cost to you? 4) Are mounting holes the same? Thanks for the inputs. Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 108 hours ----- Original Message ----- From: "Wes" <whays(at)camalott.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: positech oil cooler > > Jimmy, > Positech replaced my old Positech with the new improved model. I got it > installed about the end of September. I had been having some heating > problems and I was really surprised at OSH when they offered to replace it > at no charge. > > I recorded the max temps before and after and it appears that it has > improved the cooling about 14%. Keep in mind though that the highest temps I > saw were in the middle of Texas summers. I really don't know if it will do > that well next summer or not, but we will see. > > With the original cooler, temps at cruise were around 210F. and after taxi > got as high as 226F. > > Since the new cooler was installed, my average temp at cruise has dropped to > about 186F and the oil temp after taxi is down to 200 or below. The average > oil temperature has dropped to about 115F above ambient. Ambient > temperatures after the new cooler was installed have been as low as 50F to > 83F so we really haven't seen any hot weather yet. > > At the latter part of the testing, I was running the engine at about 70 to > 79% power. > > I have all this down on a spread sheet. If you would like a copy, please > e-mail me privately and I will be glad to forward it to you. Please > understand I really did not do this very scientifically so no flames please. > I freely admit there is quite a bit I do not know about proper testing. > > All in all, I would say it is well worth the change to the new improved > cooler. > > YMMV, > Wes Hays > Winters, TX > N844WB > RV-6A > O-360 A1A with Hartzell C/S. > 195 hours + > > > "The Laws of Aerodynamics are unforgiving and the ground is hard." > Michael Collins (1987) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 17, 2001
Subject: Flap Problems - Response
From: "John Allen" <fliier(at)onebox.com>
I also had intermittent flap problems on my RV-6A. The first thing to do is check for current at the flap motor. If you are getting reliable current in both directions (depending on the direction of switch throw) the I would suggest the following as the culprit. Some of the flap motors have a problem in which grease gets on the stator where the brushes contact it (the stator) and cause flap operation to be intermittent. The solution is to take the case off the motor and clean the brushes and stator with a Q-tip and some solvent, such as rubbing alchohol. Be careful when you open up the motor. There are some little washers which will sail across the room if you're not careful. After you pull the case off you will spend about 15 minutes trying to figure out how those little pieces go back together. I dont want to ruin your fun, but let me give you a hint. Two small tie wraps can be used to hold the spring arms in place while you re-insert the brushes in their slots. Pay attention to the orientation of the brushes as they are reinserted. John Allen ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gene Polenske" <RV8TOR(at)centurytel.net>
Subject: Re: GAN interview & baby announcement!
Date: Dec 17, 2001
Congratulations Brian > Aw gee, wasn't nuthin. If my comments can help a prospective builder to > make an informed decision to build, or not to build, then it's worth the > effort. Too many "orphaned" RV kits out there! > > Oh, by the way *drumroll*...Skyler Ray Denk was born Monday night, 7 lbs, 19 > inches, blue eyes, brown hair, and dimples to die for. He's sooo cuuuuute! > > So, I've built an airplane, and created a human being. What next? ;) > > Happy Holidays ya'll > > Brian Denk > RV8 N94BD > C'mon RV-10! > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KAKlewin(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 17, 2001
Subject: Hyd Lines..
Just wondering how folks ran hyd lines out to the gear leg on the 6A. The plans dont do a real good job of explaining in for the 6A, but have great drawings for the 6. Anyone have pictures of about where they exited the fuse? Thanks again... Kurt in OKC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Where to buy fire extinguisher?
Date: Dec 17, 2001
> For Halon Fire Extinguishers try Chief at $120 for their 2.5 pounder > w/bracket. Their 3.5 pounder w/bracket is $140. As a wrap up, I ordered a 2.5 lb from Safecraft as they have a more finished look and are about the same price as Chief http://www.safecraft.com/model_pm.htm The PM2P polished halon firex can be ordered by phone. Call 800-400-2259. Price $108.00 with standard bracket. Add $113.00 for the machined billet bracket. Ross ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 17, 2001
Subject: Re: hey bernie
care to explain this one? was it treasure coast? B. Reg. No.: 8183C M/M: PA18 Desc: PA-18 Super Cub (L-18C, L-21, Activity: Pleasure Phase: Approach GA-A/C: General Aviation Descr: ACFT GRAZED THE TOP OF A CAR WHILE ATTEMPTING TO LAND AT A PRIVATE STRIP, THE ACFT LANDED WITHOUT FURTHER INCIDENT, EXTENT OF DAMAGE TO THE CAR IS UNKNOWN, ST. LUCIE, FL. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TColeE(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 17, 2001
Subject: Tires and wheel pants.
Just tried to put new retread tires on N 468TC: Problem is the retread tires are a little taller then the aero trainer tires that come with the kit. If I were to do it again I will allow about 1,1/4 inches from the top of the tire to the wheel pants. instead of the 3/4" that I now have. My understanding that the retread tires from Dresser wear longer and the cost is less. Sure wish I would have allowed a little more room. I understand that I am not the only one that has had this little problem. Will allow at least 1,1/4 " room on the RV10. the next project. Terry E. Cole ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BELTEDAIR(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 17, 2001
Subject: Re: RV6 A
Ted, the water jacket at the base of the carb is 190 degrees, we had no need for the heat, but it is imperative that the thermostat cycle at least once before applying full power. The other way would be to fabricate an intake around the exhaust pipes with a hose up to the air filter. Jess ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 17, 2001
Subject: Re: Tires and wheel pants.
In a message dated 12/17/2001 1:00:03 PM Eastern Standard Time, TColeE(at)aol.com writes: > My understanding > that the retread tires from Dresser wear longer and the cost is less. Sure > wish I would have allowed a little more room. I understand that I am not > the > only one that has had this little problem. Terry: search the archives for my recent posts on this. Desser makes nice-looking retreads and they were easy and fair as far as returns/exchanges, but I sent back my retreads untried, when I realized how much weight I would save with McCreary AirHawks. I never got far enough with the retreads to see if they would have fit inside the pants, but I doubt they would have. -Bill B ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net>
Subject: Re: Condition Inspection Log Entires
Date: Dec 17, 2001
Gary, can you point out where in the FAR's it mandates that a written check list must be used? Since every experimental aircraft is different how could such a list exist? John at Salida, CO ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 17, 2001
From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Removable Top Skin, the final word???
Here's My question to Ken Krueger @ Van's, and his response, regarding a removable top skin in the RV-6. Thought it would be of interest, considering the volume of responses in the recent thread. Jeff Point RV-6 Fuselage, N187CF (reserved) Milwaukee WI -------- Original Message -------- Subject: Re: Attn Ken Krueger Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 07:55:25 -0800 From: "Ken Krueger" <engineering(at)vansaircraft.com> Jeff, It would certainly not be a problem to make the forward top skin on the RV-6 Tip-Up removable just like the RV-4's forward top skin. I don't know exactly why Van decided to do the -4 one way and do the -6 the other way...I guess that because the -6 is wider, it is much easier (relatively speaking) to lay on your back on the floor and reach the space behind the panel...also, the tip-up -6 gives access for the 6 inches imediately forward of the panel, which gets you to most of the instruments...it is also a bit of a hassle to remove all those screws and possibly chip the paint in a very visible area of the airplane such that you might just choose to dive under the panel and lay on your back. In all the time of owning my tip-up RV-6, I never really thought that the removable skin would have been a necessity or benefit. As an alternative solution, you might create a couple of removable access panels in the forward top skin...you would need to make doubler rings to strengthen/stiffen the skin around the access panel and, if your wallet can stand the expense, you could hold the access panels in place with flush camlok fasteners. This is an idea that has been kicked-around here from time-to-time. Perhaps some sort of small stowage compartment could be incorporated...about the size you might need to stow a small tool set, or tie-downs, or a quart of oil. So, now that I've gone on-and-on for a while, it's really no problem if you want to make that skin removable...I just feel the need sometimes to make things complicated and verbose. See you at OSH! Ken Krueger On 15 Dec 01, at 16:08, Jeff Point wrote: > Hey Ken, > > I'm sure this has been brought up before, but tell me if this is a good > idea: In order to facilitate working behind the firewall, it would be > neat to make the forward top skin removeable.between the canopy and > firewall (-6, tip up.) It would seem that one could duplicate the > strength of the 3/32 rivets with #6 or #8 screws and nutplates, spaced > appropriately, making the entire skin removeable. I believe this is > standard practice on the -4, any good reason not to do it on the -6? > > Thanks > Jeff Point > RV-6 #25728 > Milwaukee WI > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Planejoel(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 17, 2001
Subject: Re: Tires and wheel pants.
I elongated the outside bolt hole and that solved the problem. Not very deep thinking though. Joe RV6A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 17, 2001
From: "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Tires and wheel pants.
That's a good reminder for everyone. The AeroTrainers have the smallest profile (diameter) of just about any tire out there. Depending on the tire pressure, runway surface, landing technique, number of touch & gos, camber and toe-in/out, you can go thru a set of them pretty fast. I believe that the newer kits come with Condors?, which are a little bigger. Thus, if you fit your wheel pants tight, for that "go fast" look (like I did), you wind up getting real good at making up wheel pants every time you upgrade the tires. Boyd Super 6 SE FL and 84 F in the afternoons the whole month of December--the Gulf waters are still warm enough that we have a chance of a December hurricane TColeE(at)aol.com wrote: > > > Just tried to put new retread tires on N 468TC: Problem is the retread tires > are a little taller then the aero trainer tires that come with the kit. If I > were to do it again I will allow about 1,1/4 inches from the top of the tire > to the wheel pants. instead of the 3/4" that I now have. My understanding > that the retread tires from Dresser wear longer and the cost is less. Sure > wish I would have allowed a little more room. I understand that I am not the > only one that has had this little problem. > > Will allow at least 1,1/4 " room on the RV10. the next project. > Terry E. Cole > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: Pushrod question?
Date: Dec 17, 2001
They are a tight fit. I used 400 grit paper to smooth both pieces so they would go together without undue force. Steve Soule Huntington, Vermont N227RV RV-6A flying -----Original Message----- Good morning, When trying to fit the threaded ends onto the steel pushrods (bellcrank to aileron) I found the fit to be very tight. Is it normal to have to ream out the tube or file down the fitting? Thanks! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Fw: info pack
Date: Dec 17, 2001
-----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Finn Lassen Subject: Re: RV-List: Fw: info pack That's an impressive (I should say "unbelievable") fuel consumption/HP (SBFC) for a jet engine. I wonder at what altitude those numbers are "true". The big producers of jet engines (P&W, GE, etc.) must be green with envy. --------------- ............................................................................ ............... I agree, having been around turgine engines for a number of years, I only have a couple of concerns. 1. Single stage turbines are notoriously ineffecient, even more so with a single stage "centrifugal" impeller. This is what the first turbines used, and aside from a few oddballs, most are at least a combination of centrigual/axial compressors. 2. Fuel consumption. These numbers can be altered "on paper" to look very good, but depending on altitude, etc.. can change radically. I am very suspicious of their numbers and will be interested in seeing the "real-world" data once it is installed and flying. 3. RPM, I'd be interested in knowing if this is a single spool or split spool engine. Either way the power tubine must continually spin within a relatively small RPM band, therefore necessitating a propeller which can move from 0-heavy pitch rather quickly. The disadvantage here is that you have an engine continuously spinning at 65%+, even on the ground. Not a huge problem, but just another thought. Anyway, I'm very hopefull their stats will be accurate. It would be exciting to see an engine of this caliber (claimed) and efficiency available to all of us "poor" builders! Somehow I think in the end the numbers may "creep up" a bit. Cheers, Stein Bruch, A&P RV6, Minneapolis, Engine systems. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Finn Lassen Subject: Re: RV-List: Fw: info pack That's an impressive (I should say "unbelievable") fuel consumption/HP (SBFC) for a jet engine. I wonder at what altitude those numbers are "true". The big producers of jet engines (P&W, GE, etc.) must be green with envy. Finn ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com>
Subject: Re: Canopy paper
Date: Dec 17, 2001
I simply used several layers of Saran wrap. Doug Weiler > > Does anyone know what type of clear paper > > that protects the canopy inside and out??? > > It's Sunday and I want to put clear contact paper > > on it but I really don't know if it will hurt it... > > > > I did a test a few years ago with contact paper (it is really vinyl, I don't > know why they still call it paper) on scraps of plexiglass. It really > crazed the stressed areas - I bent the scrap of plexiglass to induce stress. > I would absolutely not put that stuff on a canopy, but is is great for > protecting aluminum. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 17, 2001
From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Fw: info pack
--- StripMime Report -- processed MIME parts --- text/html --- StripMime Errors --- A message with no text/plain section was received. The entire body of the message was removed. Please resend the email using plaintext formatting --- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 17, 2001
From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Fw: info pack
Let's try this again... my email program has been giving me fits lately. I spoke to the ATP people at Oshkosh this year, and I recall them saying that the engine had been derated way down from it's top HP to achieve the 240 HP at the prop. This might explain the low fuel consumption. Jeff Point RV-6 (turboprop?) N187CF (reserved) Milwaukee WI Finn Lassen wrote: > >That's an impressive (I should say "unbelievable") fuel consumption/HP (SBFC) >for a jet engine. I wonder at what altitude those numbers are "true". >The big producers of jet engines (P&W, GE, etc.) must be green with envy. > >Finn > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Werner Spenner <spenner(at)viavale.com.br>
Subject: The entire risk as to the quality.
Date: Dec 17, 2001
Should this software prove defective, you and not the author assume the entire cost of any service and/or repair. The author shall not be held liable for any loss of data, loss of revenue or any other direct or indirect damage or claims caused by this software package. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 17, 2001
Subject: "Hot Tips" availability
Hi All, I noticed that the "Yeller Pages" still list the "HOT TIPS" with the original designers/manufacturers. The manufacture and sales of the "HOT TIPS" is now with Massey Aircraft Service. They can be contacted by Email at fixnfly(at)msn.com Their website is http://www.masseyaircraftservice.com Their snail mail address is 521 Aviation Street, Shafter, CA. 93263. Their phone number is (661) 392-0838. Jim Ayers RV-3 N47RV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 17, 2001
From: Charles Brame <charleyb(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Removable instrument panel (was Removeable top skin)
My bird is a 6A Slider. I discovered that my panel cannot be installed or removed with the windshield roll bar in place. As the roll bar becomes more or less permanently installed once the windshield is fiber glassed in, removal of the panel becomes impractical. I plan to have removable sub-panels which, hopefully, will provide enough clearance to repair any items immediately behind the panel. The bigger problem as I see it, will be those items installed between the firewall and the F-668 bulkhead which will only be accessible from below. I would love to have a completely removable panel. Have any other slider builders found a solution permitting the panel to be removed with the roll bar installed? Charlie Brame RV-6A QB N11CB (Res.) San Antonio ----------------------------------------------- > From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" > Subject: Re: RV-List: Removeable top skin, was Working under the panel > > > List, I put plate nuts on my instrument panel ( Eight # 8 Countersunk) > which I can remove to slide the panel back for service if needed. > Not flying yet (Wiring) but have seen this done before by a builder > I met at "Sun-N-Fun" last year. > > Tom, In Ohio (RV6-A) > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wes" <whays(at)camalott.com>
Subject: Re: positech oil cooler
Date: Dec 17, 2001
Dennis, > 1) Was it an exchange or new unit? My unit was a new unit but I had to send the old one back, so I guess you would say it was exchange. I visited with Bryan Templeton at OSH and he put me on the production list after he got home. > 2) If exchange, what was turnaround time? The new unit was shipped on 9-11 (I couldn't believe it) and I had it installed on 9-21. If I had not given him my M/C number to insure return of the core, it would have taken longer. They would not have shipped the new cooler until the old one was received. I understand that there is/was a backlong but since they have been in production for a while, it shouldn't be too long. > 3) What was cost to you? The only cost to me was shipping back the old cooler. It was an outright exchange. I was a bit skeptical at first, but they (Positech) did exactly what they said they would do. > 4) Are mounting holes the same? They physical demensions of the cooler including the location of the mounting holes were exactly the same. Stan Blanton gave me the idea of building a fiberglass plenum to sit on top of the cooler. I think that it helps. A friend of mine has his cooler mounted the same but he has the inlet pretty close to the cooler. His temps do not seem to have dropped quite as much as mine did. My cooler is mounted on the firewall at a 45 degree angle. Oil to cooler is in the bottom, and oil to engine out the top. Air is from a 3" hole above #4 cyl. This morning, I just flew the plane after the condition inspection. I did close up the hole in front of the nosegear (finally) and sealed the plenum around the cooler better with some red RTV. I also fixed a place on the baffling that I thought was leaking. To be honest, I don't quite believe the difference. It was about 47F ambient this morning and my oil temps stayed at about 165 the whole trip. I had the sliding door to close off air to the cooler fully closed. The temps did start up when I slowed down and taxied in, but they never got above 183. This is about 118 F above ambient, which is about what the temps dropped to after the new cooler was installed. This is probably a lot more information than you wanted to know, but I am pretty encouraged by what I saw this morning. I really think the new cooler has helped a lot, along with closing up the leaks and holes. Thanks. Wes Hays RV-6A Winters, TX N844WB O-360 A1A w Hartzell c/s. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 17, 2001
Subject: Re: Pushrod question?
In a message dated 12/17/01 5:54:53 AM Pacific Standard Time, jack(at)IaJobs.com writes: << When trying to fit the threaded ends onto the steel pushrods (bellcrank to aileron) I found the fit to be very tight. Is it normal to have to ream out the tube or file down the fitting? Thanks! Jack Textor >> Seems like everyone has a different experience with this. Mine were like yours. I put the ends in a cup of ice to chill them and heated (hot but NOT red hot) the tube ends with my propane torch. Using HEAVY leather gloves I quickly slid the ends into the tubes. Two went together easily and the others required a couple of gentle taps with a plastic mallet to fully seat them. Worked well for me and those babies are tight! Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, finish kit stuff ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 17, 2001
From: Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Hand Propping
----- Original Message ----- From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> To:Hand -propping A lifetime ago when I was learning and practicing aerobatics in my first airplane- a 75hp, clipped-wing Cub, I had to learn a way to prop it myself that was safe and catered to the chance it may runaway. It had to be solo as my average trip was ten-to -fifteen minutes long before I had to land, get out and sit on the tire until the nausea passed. What fun! I would place triangular wooden chocks in front of the mainwheels. They were fitted with an eyebolt on the starboard side and had a rope attached which was led into the cockpit. The tailwheel was tied to anything that would hold back the Cub ( car bumper, parking-lot guardrail,etc.)using a continuous loop of 3/8 or 1/2" white nylon line that was joined using a bowline knot on which the last part(where the rabbit goes back into his hole) was done with a loop, the loose end of which was also run into the cockpit. This knot is unique in that, no matter how tightly it is tensioned, it can always be undone easily. The first start with a cold engine could be done from behind the prop with my left foot firmly up against the right tire. Subsequent starts required much more energy on my part due to the weak, ancient mags and were done from in front. Once seated in the plane, the tail rope was given a yank which caused the bowline to come undone and the rope was reeled in, coiled, and tossed in the baggage sling behind me. Then, holding the heel brakes, the two ropes leading to the chocks were pulled and the chocks tossed out of the way behind the right wing or also put in hthe baggabe compartment. The two ways of restraining the aircraft may seem like overkill but several times I did bump the throttle while climbing in with a parachute on and then twisting around to do up the five-way, and then the two-way, harnesses. The last time I hand-propped a 200hp IO-360 Pitts S1S, I lost my balance( only weighed 160lbs back then on a 6'2"+frame) and sank to my knees as that was the only way I could get the leverage to get out of the way of the propellor, which was merrily spinning away. I got so close to it with my face that I could hear the air hissing as the blades sliced through it. Never again have I propped anything bigger than 150hp. Years ago, a stranger approached me on the ramp and asked if I could prop his Rockwell 114 as it had a dead battery. Upon learning it had an O-360 in it, I offered to hold the brakes and run the throttle for him while he propped it. He gave me a look like I had holes in my head and not so politely declined my offer. If he wouldn't do it for himself, why would I? I don't mind helping strangers out at all if I feel I can do it safely, but with my build, when the blade goes down, I go up. Scott in Vancouver > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 17, 2001
Subject: Re: Removable instrument panel (was Removeable top skin)
In a message dated 12/17/01 11:46:05 AM Pacific Standard Time, charleyb(at)earthlink.net writes: << Have any other slider builders found a solution permitting the panel to be removed with the roll bar installed? >> Charley: I have cut the ends off my panel about 2 1/2 in. inboard. This allows the panel to clear the roll bar attachments. The ends will be permanently mounted to the frame with a backing plate and the removable part of the panel will be attached with # 8 screws on about 4 in centers. Looks at this point like it will work O.K. The six flight instruments will also be on a panel removable from the main panel. Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, finish kit stuff ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 17, 2001
From: "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: Re: Removable instrument panel (was Removeable top skin)
See http://www.geocities.com/zilik/panel005.jpg The panel is cut and spliced on each end to allow removal. Only one end needed the splice but I did not think of that before I started cutting. Gary RV-6A N99PZ 255 hours Charles Brame wrote: > > My bird is a 6A Slider. I discovered that my panel cannot be installed > or removed with the windshield roll bar in place. As the roll bar > becomes more or less permanently installed once the windshield is fiber > glassed in, removal of the panel becomes impractical. I plan to have > removable sub-panels which, hopefully, will provide enough clearance to > repair any items immediately behind the panel. The bigger problem as I > see it, will be those items installed between the firewall and the > F-668 bulkhead which will only be accessible from below. > > I would love to have a completely removable panel. Have any other slider > builders found a solution permitting the panel to be removed with the > roll bar installed? > > Charlie Brame > RV-6A QB N11CB (Res.) > San Antonio > > ----------------------------------------------- > > > From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Removeable top skin, was Working under the panel > > > > > > List, I put plate nuts on my instrument panel ( Eight # 8 Countersunk) > > which I can remove to slide the panel back for service if needed. > > Not flying yet (Wiring) but have seen this done before by a builder > > I met at "Sun-N-Fun" last year. > > > > Tom, In Ohio (RV6-A) > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net>
Subject: Garmin 430 Update price
Date: Dec 17, 2001
There was a long thread a short wile ago regarding the cost of database updates for the Garmin 430. I never was able to determine from the multitude of messages what the cost really was or where to get a good price. Can these be purchased through Stark? Russ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 17, 2001
Subject: Re: Removable instrument panel (was Removeable top skin)
From: "Robert Dickson" <bubba(at)coastalnet.com>
Harry I'd like to do something like this, but have prepared my panel in the "normal" manner, with #8 screws holding it to the notched and curved angle that will be riveted to the top skin. I'm concerned that if I split the panel in pieces now that I'll leave gaps at the cuts since the panel is fitted to the top skin. Did you make the splits before shaping the panel to the top skin or after? Do you understand what I'm asking? Also, what thickness are you using to make the removable panel? TIA Robert Dickson RV-6A fwf ---------- >From: HCRV6(at)aol.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: Removable instrument panel (was Removeable top skin) >Date: Mon, Dec 17, 2001, 4:04 PM > > > In a message dated 12/17/01 11:46:05 AM Pacific Standard Time, > charleyb(at)earthlink.net writes: > > << Have any other slider builders found a solution permitting the panel to be > removed with the roll bar installed? >> > > Charley: I have cut the ends off my panel about 2 1/2 in. inboard. This > allows the panel to clear the roll bar attachments. The ends will be > permanently mounted to the frame with a backing plate and the removable part > of the panel will be attached with # 8 screws on about 4 in centers. Looks > at this point like it will work O.K. The six flight instruments will also be > on a panel removable from the main panel. > > Harry Crosby > Pleasanton, California > RV-6, finish kit stuff > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chuck Spaur" <chuck(at)spaur.com>
Subject: brake line
Date: Dec 17, 2001
Hi, I received Parker Parflex N 1/4 O.D. X .062 Wall 500 W.P. 0011383 line for plumbing my brakes. Also received were clear plastic(?) inserts - are these inserts supposed to fit in this line? I've heard others refer to brass inserts. I've tried to get the inserts I have into this line with no success (boiling water, etc). Any suggestions? Thanks, Chuck RV-6 plumbing and wiring... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 17, 2001
From: "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: "Hot Tips" availability
Jim, Wow, those are some pricy tips. $485 for the tips without recesses for the lights, plus $185 for the bulkhead kit (?, I assume it's the molded recess). That's $670 for a set of tips????? Must be worth at least 20 kts ;-) It looks like Van's had essencially the same tips now for the RV-7 for $350, which includes the molded recess and lens for the nav/strobe lights. Maybe Massey needs to reevaluate their prices...... Laird RV-6 SoCal From: rv-list(at)matronics.com on Mon, Dec 17, 2001 12:14 PM Subject: RV-List: "Hot Tips" availability Hi All, I noticed that the "Yeller Pages" still list the "HOT TIPS" with the original designers/manufacturers. The manufacture and sales of the "HOT TIPS" is now with Massey Aircraft Service. They can be contacted by Email at fixnfly(at)msn.com Their website is http://www.masseyaircraftservice.com Their snail mail address is 521 Aviation Street, Shafter, CA. 93263. Their phone number is (661) 392-0838. Jim Ayers RV-3 N47RV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Removable instrument panel (was Removeable top skin)
Date: Dec 17, 2001
Just remember that when you make the panel removable and divided into pieces, you lose panel space (due to the mounting flanges at the divisions) and you have to make really long service loops to take advantage of the removability feature. I have a three piece panel in my tip up 6A and it helps servicing a lot. I even have service loops on the gyro tubing! The service loop on the breaker panel is about as thick and flexible as a boa constrictor, however. Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 108 hours ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Dickson" <bubba(at)coastalnet.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Removable instrument panel (was Removeable top skin) > > Harry > I'd like to do something like this, but have prepared my panel in the > "normal" manner, with #8 screws holding it to the notched and curved angle > that will be riveted to the top skin. I'm concerned that if I split the > panel in pieces now that I'll leave gaps at the cuts since the panel is > fitted to the top skin. Did you make the splits before shaping the panel to > the top skin or after? Do you understand what I'm asking? Also, what > thickness are you using to make the removable panel? > > TIA > > Robert Dickson > RV-6A fwf > > ---------- > >From: HCRV6(at)aol.com > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > >Subject: Re: RV-List: Removable instrument panel (was Removeable top skin) > >Date: Mon, Dec 17, 2001, 4:04 PM > > > > > > > In a message dated 12/17/01 11:46:05 AM Pacific Standard Time, > > charleyb(at)earthlink.net writes: > > > > << Have any other slider builders found a solution permitting the panel to be > > removed with the roll bar installed? >> > > > > Charley: I have cut the ends off my panel about 2 1/2 in. inboard. This > > allows the panel to clear the roll bar attachments. The ends will be > > permanently mounted to the frame with a backing plate and the removable part > > of the panel will be attached with # 8 screws on about 4 in centers. Looks > > at this point like it will work O.K. The six flight instruments will also be > > on a panel removable from the main panel. > > > > Harry Crosby > > Pleasanton, California > > RV-6, finish kit stuff > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "lothar klingmuller" <lothark(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Condition Inspection Log Entires
Date: Dec 17, 2001
Gary, thanks for enlightening us newcomers to the flying group. Your comments are clear and to the point (= very useful). Do you have a favorable written check list for the conditional inspection. Also, if I fly more than 100 hrs within 12 months, do I have to have more than one conditional inspection to be legally correct? (I would do one every 100 hours anyhow) Lothar, Denver CO|| 6A tip-up|| 23 hours into the test flying period -----Original Message----- From: Gary A. Sobek <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> >You MUST use a written check list for the condition inspection >There are actually 3 entries. One in each of the three log books. >(Airframe, Engine, and propeller.) >For the Airframe: >I certify that this aircraft has been inspected in accordance with a >"Condition" Inspection and have determined that it is in a condition >for safe operation. Signature "Certificate Type" "Number of >Certificate". > >Because I have an A&P License, I typically will end after the >inspection type "in an airworty condition" instead of conditon for safe >operation. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 17, 2001
Subject: Re: Condition Inspection Log Entires
In a message dated 12/17/01 6:51:42 PM Eastern Standard Time, lothark(at)worldnet.att.net writes: << Gary, thanks for enlightening us newcomers to the flying group. Your comments are clear and to the point (= very useful). Do you have a favorable written check list for the conditional inspection. Also, if I fly more than 100 hrs within 12 months, do I have to have more than one conditional inspection to be legally correct? (I would do one every 100 hours anyhow) Lothar, Denver CO|| 6A tip-up|| 23 hours into the test flying period >> I'm not Gary, but I'll give it a shot.. 100 hour inspections are not required. However, they are a pretty good idea. There are several conditional inspection checklists in the archives. Do a search, and you'll find a wide variety. I'm using a modified version of one posted by Bob Skinner (an old RV-lister whose presence is missed in this forum). Kyle Boatright 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider Kennesaw, GA http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 17, 2001
From: gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Pushrod question?
A regular heatgun is way sufficient here, let's not burn the house down before xmas ;-) if you want a bigger temp differential, stick the rod inserst in the freezer or get a block of dry ice for a whole wopping $2.- and cool the inserts down that way. Gert HCRV6(at)aol.com wrote: > > > In a message dated 12/17/01 5:54:53 AM Pacific Standard Time, jack(at)IaJobs.com > writes: > > << When trying to fit the threaded ends onto the steel pushrods (bellcrank to > aileron) I found the fit to be very tight. Is it normal to have to ream out > the tube or file down the fitting? Thanks! > Jack Textor >> > > Seems like everyone has a different experience with this. Mine were like > yours. I put the ends in a cup of ice to chill them and heated (hot but NOT > red hot) the tube ends with my propane torch. Using HEAVY leather gloves I > quickly slid the ends into the tubes. Two went together easily and the > others required a couple of gentle taps with a plastic mallet to fully seat > them. Worked well for me and those babies are tight! > > Harry Crosby > Pleasanton, California > RV-6, finish kit stuff > -- is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 17, 2001
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Condition Inspection Log Entires
--- lothar klingmuller wrote: > > > Gary, thanks for enlightening us newcomers to the flying group. Your > comments are clear and to the point (= very useful). > > Do you have a favorable written check list for the conditional > inspection. > Also, if I fly more than 100 hrs within 12 months, do I have to have > more > than one conditional inspection to be legally correct? (I would do > one every > 100 hours anyhow) > > Lothar, Denver CO|| 6A tip-up|| 23 hours into the test flying period > > -----Original Message----- > From: Gary A. Sobek <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> > > >You MUST use a written check list for the condition inspection > > >There are actually 3 entries. One in each of the three log books. > >(Airframe, Engine, and propeller.) > > >For the Airframe: > > >I certify that this aircraft has been inspected in accordance with a > >"Condition" Inspection and have determined that it is in a condition > >for safe operation. Signature "Certificate Type" "Number of > >Certificate". > > > >Because I have an A&P License, I typically will end after the > >inspection type "in an airworty condition" instead of conditon for > safe > >operation. > > Lothar: Yes I do have a favorite one. The guys on the SoCAL-RVlist have access to the one customized for my airplane in the files section of the YahooGroup site. I have been changing it almost every time I use it. It is based on the one in FAR 43, the AC the EAA passed out on licensing experimental aircraft, and one other one that I had got at A&P school. Most of my customized one was to rearrange the sequence so that I only went around the airplane one time. When I arrived back at the starting point, the condition inspection was complete. In other words, the sequence was arranged so that the best use of time occurred and the process was finished in the shortest time possible. The FAA lists exactly what must be accomplished. I arranged the order of their list (FAA FAR 43 Appendix ?) to finish in the shortest time possible. The regulations do NOT require the 100 hour unless you have the operating limitations modified to allow "Crew Training" then you need the 100 hour inspection. Check the operating limitations issued to your aircraft for the exact "scope and detail" that is required for it. I have a tendency to do a condition inspection when ever it is convenient and I already have the cowl off doing an oil change. Did one December 31, 2000 and another one in July before flying to Ft. Yukon, Alaska. I have also done one on the engine and propeller with the log entries then about one month later, did the airframe and made the log entry for the airframe. What ever you do, DO NOT made false log entries. Hope this helps. ==== Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 990.5+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: Re: Removable instrument panel (was Removeable top skin)
Date: Dec 17, 2001
> I would love to have a completely removable panel. Have any other slider > builders found a solution permitting the panel to be removed with the > roll bar installed? I have the slider on my 6A and had no trouble getting the panel in and out. The panel is one piece, and fits the curved portion of the fuse top very closely. I did remove a bit of the very bottom outboard ends (the part under the side gussets), maybe 1" in from the outboard ends. To remove the panel, it first comes straight aft an inch or two, then pivots around one side until the other clears the F604 bulkhead. There are no gymnastics involved, it comes right out. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN 64 hours 6A N66AP flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net>
"Rv8list@Egroups"
Subject: RE: [VAF Mailing List] wingtip lights and strobes
Date: Dec 17, 2001
Hi all... I got my landing light installation done last night... I am using Van's new Sheared "HOT" tips and a landing light installation using MR-16 Halogen bulbs... I am thinking of putting together an installation kit if the interest is there... http://vondane.com/rv8a/wing/wings5.htm#landlights Also, congrats to Brian & Deb! And.....Happy Holidays to all! -Bill VonDane Colorado Springs, CO RV-8A - N8VD - On break for the holidays... http://vondane.com/rv8a/ -----Original Message----- From: Bill VonDane [mailto:bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com] Subject: RE: [VAF Mailing List] wingtip lights and strobes Vince got me motivated to get going on my lights, so last night I went to work... I made it all pretty much like I had it drawn it earlier, except I will be using some angled washer type things on the front plate to line the screws up properly... The one in the picture I made, but I know I saw them someplace and will try to find some as I am sure they will look much better than the one I made... If anyone has seen these things, please let me know... In the pictures the landing light is set back in the tip much farther than they will be once I'm done... I am thinking I may just put a rubber hose over the top screw, between the front plate and the light plates, to hold it all in place but still offer some movement for adjustment, and use the springs on the bottom "adjusters"... The top will probably be something like 1/4" from the front plate, or at least as close as I can get it and still allow it to pivot... I had already cut holes in the tips for the NAV/Strobes to mount centered, but now seeing my install, looking at the picture you sent me, and reading what you said, I know I can angle the ass (strobe) end of the light up so the landing light will clear it with no problems... I ended up getting the connectors I needed at a lighting shop here in town that also stocks the 71 watt and 100 watt bulbs, and since my bulbs will be in the wing tip, which I am sure can handle more heat that the lexan cover, I will probably go with the 100 watters... I have also installed a home grown wig-wag circuit for my lights which you can see on my web site if your interested... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 17, 2001
Subject: Re: Removable instrument panel (was Removeable top skin)
In a message dated 12/17/01 1:57:54 PM Pacific Standard Time, bubba(at)coastalnet.com writes: <> Robert: I decided after fitting my original panel to the angle frame and to the top skin and drilling per the plans for rivets with fairly close spaced holes that I wanted to be able to remove the panel. Without thinking very far ahead I used the existing rivet hole spacing to install # 8 nut plates, then I finally realized that the panel could not be removed because of interference with the roll bar weldments. I also decided I wanted the panel to be one inch deeper, so this made the decision easier to get a new panel from Van's. Since I had already installed nut plates to attach the panel to the angle frame, I cut the original panel 3/4 inch wide to follow the inside of the angle frame, except for the ends that I left 1/2 inch wider than the ends that I cut off the new panel to clear the weldments (as someone else has pointed out you only really need to cut one end, but I like things to be symmetrical). This way the original panel serves as a frame to hold the curve of the notched angle frame so I didn't disturb the fit to the top fwd skin and also provides both a place to locate two more # 8 screws to secure the new panel to the frame and a place to attach the non-removable ends of the new panel. I countersunk the screws holding the remains of the old panel (now a frame) to the angle except for every third screw which is used to attach the new panel (as I read this it seems about as clear as mud so get back to me if I have thoroughly confused you with this rambling.) As for material thickness, I used the stock 0.063 for the main panel. I will use 0.125 for the removable "six pack" sub panel and will use a "window frame" doubler around that big hole to provide a little additional strength at the cutout. Hope this helps. I Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, finish kit stuff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 17, 2001
Subject: Re: Removable instrument panel (was Removeable top skin)
In a message dated 12/17/01 2:16:11 PM Pacific Standard Time, dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes: << you have to make really long service loops to take advantage of the removability feature. >> Dennis: How do you secure the service loops to prevent them from flopping around behind the panel and causing mischief? Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, finish kit stuff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robin Wessel" <robin.wessel(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Garmin 430 Update price
Date: Dec 17, 2001
Russ- I just ordered my IFR GPS database subscription from Jeppesen today for my Garmin 300XL. I plan on starting my IFR training (I thought that I would be spending less once the plane was built!!). Garmin contracts Jeppesen to do their updates via one of two services- classic and datawriter. The classic cost about $600+ a year ($200+ one time) and involves a monthly datacard exchange through the mail. The better alternative is the Datawriter method which involves the purchase of a $150 writer unit that connects to your PC. Monthly updates are provided via the internet and you write them yourself. The advantage is that the yearly cost is about half and they also offer regional coverage for even less. I purchased the west/central for $225 a year. There are two catches to the datawriter unit. First- they are backordered on the datawriter unit and don't expect new one until Feb/Mar so they are offering the classic service for the price of datawriter service until the writer becomes available. Second- the datawriter is PCMCIA based and requires either a laptop or a IDE PCMCIA card adapter (USB and Parallel models will not work). Jepp claims that the new datawriter units will be compatible with NT/2k/XP in Feb or Mar. Cheers- Robin Wessel RV-6A Tigard, oR http://robin.getbiz.net There was a long thread a short wile ago regarding the cost of database updates for the Garmin 430. I never was able to determine from the multitude of messages what the cost really was or where to get a good price. Can these be purchased through Stark? Russ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 17, 2001
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Fw: info pack
The problem with focusing on static thrust is that we don't spend much time in that condition. We are much more interested in how much thrust the engine/combination puts out in flight, at relevant airspeeds (climb at VX, climb at VY, cruise, etc). The prop efficiency, and hence the thrust, varies significantly as the operating condition varies. Props are generally designed to have their best efficiency in the cruise condition, and many of them have very low efficiency in the static condition, as the blades are partially stalled. If ATP thinks static thrust is important, that tells me that either this is the only good number they can find to brag about, or they don't know what they are doing. In flight performance, fuel consumption, reliability, operating characteristics, parts cost and availability, etc are much more relevant than static thrust. Kevin Horton > >Interesting... > >A few years ago, a gang of 180/185 club members got to testing different >props. They used a hydraulic tension meter (like a hefty fish scale), >attached to the bumper of a pick-up, and tested every airplane in sight (it >was a club flyin). These are static thrust numbers. > >Low - 78" Hartzell Scimitar prop on a 230 Hp o-470 (C-180) - 740 pounds of >thrust > >High - 88" McCauley 401 prop on a 300 Hp IO-520 (C-185) - 1120 pounds of >thrust > >I wonder how that relates to the numbers given by ATP? Kevin? > >John > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; RV7and7A(at)yahoogroups.com; >SoCAL-RVlist(at)yahoogroups.com; rv7-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Fw: info pack > > >Finally got some info about the ATP powerplant... > >)_( Dan >dan(at)rvproject.com >http://www.rvproject.com:8000 > > >Dear Sir, >Here is some information on the 6.5 uncertified turbine engine. >Weight 185 lbs >Length 32'' overall to prop flange >Diameter 12 1/2" maximum located at the hot section > 10" diameter of gearbox >Height 16" overall located at accessory pad on gearbox >Burns JetA, Kerosene, Diesel and Gasoline > The preferred fuels are JetA and Kerosene >Four point conical mount >20 to 1 double planetary gearbox >Gearbox designed for 500 hp continuous 600 hp peak >Example ( If turbine is turning 60,000 rpm prop turning 3000 rpm) >Single stage radial flow turbine centrifugal compressor >Electronic fuel injection >Electronic ignition >120hp 10.7 gals/hr 300 lbs thrust at 2650 rpm >180hp 13.3 gals/hr 450lbs thrust at 2750 rpm >240hp 16.6 gals/hr 600lbs thrust at 3000rpm >maximum rpm at propeller 3200 rpm >usable rpm range in fight 2500 to 3200 rpm >Designed to operate efficiently at variable rpm >We already have a pusher. We plan on debuting it at Sun n Fun 2002. >Production starts in Jan. 2002. We are offering a pre-production price of >23,000.00 only by putting down your deposit of 25%. We will soon be able to >accept your deposit on a secure area of our website. >Thanks for interest in ATP if you are in need of further information please >feel free to email or call. You can visit our web page at www.atpcoinc.com >or the ATP Yahoo Group at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ATP1 >We hope to hear from you soon! >Take Care, >Heather L. Mitchell >Director of Internet Sales > >-- > >On Sat, 3 Nov 2001 10:08:43 Dan Checkoway wrote: >>Please send me as much information as possible, including the info video if >>it's available. >> >>Dan Checkoway >>2420 N. Flower St. >>Santa Ana, CA 92706 >> >>Thanks, >>)_( Dan >>dan(at)rvproject.com >>http://www.rvproject.com > > >> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Shrike(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 17, 2001
Subject: Re: Canopy paper
You know, in the service we had some nasty stuff that was thick and gooey that we painted on the lexan. It dried to a very durable but yet somewhat soft film. Kind of like rubber cement. You could bump it, hit it, and inadvertently scratch it with a blunt object without any damage to the underlying surface. It was the all-around protectant while the aircraft was in maintenance. When ready, you could peel it off like a facial mask with no damage to the plex. I was in a helicopter completion center about 3 years ago, and they were still using it. Anyone know what this stuff is called? I forgot after the years.... PJ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Where to buy fire extinguisher?
Date: Dec 17, 2001
Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies has 2.5 lb. Halon extinguishers for $124.80 which includes a metal mounting bracket (some sanctioning organizations don't allow a plastic mounting bracket). The part number is 2081. Here is a link: http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/ Chris Heitman Dousman WI RV-9A N94ME (reserved) http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html -----Original Message----- I want to buy a 2.5 lb Halon Hand held fire extinguisher. Where is the best price? I have found one for $139 from http://www.ioportracing.com/fire.htm Sporty's has them for $180 ID #: 7941A http://www.sportys.com/acb/webpage.cfm?&DID=19&WebPage_ID=68 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Dec 17, 2001
Subject: Re: Removable instrument panel (was Removeable top skin)
> Have any other > slider builders found a solution permitting the panel to be removed > with the roll bar installed? Yup. Pictures at http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a/panel.htm Tim ****** Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA) RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99 http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a ****** ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 17, 2001
From: Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Canopy paper
Spraylat? ----- Original Message ----- From: <Shrike(at)aol.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy paper > > You know, in the service we had some nasty stuff that was thick and gooey > that we painted on the lexan. > > It dried to a very durable but yet somewhat soft film. Kind of like rubber > cement. You could bump it, hit it, and inadvertently scratch it with a blunt > object without any damage to the underlying surface. It was the all-around > protectant while the aircraft was in maintenance. > > When ready, you could peel it off like a facial mask with no damage to the > plex. > > I was in a helicopter completion center about 3 years ago, and they were > still using it. > > Anyone know what this stuff is called? > > I forgot after the years.... > > PJ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Spray-Lat (was: Canopy paper)
Date: Dec 17, 2001
This "goopy" canopy stuff is called Spray-Lat. It can be purchased from Aircraft Spruce or Wicks. It is great stuff. Brush it on and peel it off when you're ready. I learned of it from another builder here in Minneapolis. Here's the URL from ACS. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/spraylat.php Good Luck Stein Bruch, RV6, Minneapolis, Cowling. ............................................................................ ............................................................................ ...................................... You know, in the service we had some nasty stuff that was thick and gooey that we painted on the lexan. It dried to a very durable but yet somewhat soft film. Kind of like rubber cement. You could bump it, hit it, and inadvertently scratch it with a blunt object without any damage to the underlying surface. It was the all-around protectant while the aircraft was in maintenance. When ready, you could peel it off like a facial mask with no damage to the plex. I was in a helicopter completion center about 3 years ago, and they were still using it. Anyone know what this stuff is called? I forgot after the years.... PJ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 17, 2001
From: planewizz(at)cs.com
Subject: gear leg stiffeners
Bill: Thanks for the post. I am not any where near installing the gear, but am really interested in the gear stiffener effect you discussed in your post. When you have made your conclusions, I sure would appreciate reading about them. Happy Holidays Dave Pohl Michigan SportAV8R(at)aol.com wrote: > >I will add my experience to date to the list discussion of gear leg >stiffeners, from the perspective of an RV-6A pilot. I am in the middle of >the long process of changing over from the old Van's one-piece wheelpants and >molded in place leg fairings to the 2-pc pants and Team Rocket fairings. I >say "long process" because it is time consuming to fill all the pinholes in >the Van's wheelpants with acrylic glaze putty and sand until your fingertips >are raw, and it adds time to the project to keep taking the plane down off >the jacks in order to fly it, then put it back up for more work...) > >As I said, I am not yet finished, but I have arrived at an interesting >juncture, where for the first time ever, I can evaluate the effect of the >gear leg stiffeners on the performance of the 6A gear. The first thing I >noted, as I posted earlier, is that the gear leg stiffeners are in fact >highly corrosive, and resulted in deep pitting of the mains (but >interestingly none on the nose gear leg). That has been dealt with as best I >know how, short of replacement. I have now had the opportunity to fly with >totally naked gear for the first time. It is slow. 75% power delivers about >160 mph IAS. No real surprise there. The real difference is the landing. > >I was expecting, in fact braced for, a bad shimmy on the turf runway when I >eased it on the first time. What I am pleased to report is that every >landing since getting rid of the stiffeners has been great! The airplane >sticks to my bumpy turf strip like it had Velcro on it... no tendency to >bounce or porpoise at all. These are preliminary results, and have not been >attempted on asphalt yet, nor with the pants installed, or the leg fairings, >all of which are necessary for a "true test." But if the results hold, I >will NOT be installing stiffeners on my plane again. If they don't, I will >consider the selection of fiberglass farm fencing rods available instead of >'glassing wood and or foam to my poor little rustable landing gear. > >Just thought I'd throw that out to the crowd, since, at this very moment, >somewhere, some builder is at the point where he must decide whether to >stiffen or not to stiffen, and this may help him decide. > >Bill Boyd >RV-6A O-320/Sensenich FP >Hop-Along Air Field, 12VA >Clifton Forge, VA > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dave ford" <dford(at)michweb.net>
Subject: conduit
Date: Dec 17, 2001
I'm looking for flexible 3/8" or 1/2" conduit. Does anyone know of a source for a small quantity? Dave Ford RV6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 17, 2001
Subject: Re: "Hot Tips" availability
Hi Laird, I'll probably be a Massey's tomorrow. I'll mention it to them. Jim Ayers ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lkyswede(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 18, 2001
Subject: Re: Looking for Bob Haan
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Watson" <terrywatson3(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: conduit
Date: Dec 17, 2001
Dave, A couple of years ago when I was ordering plastic conduit for my wings from Bill Benedict at Van's, he told me I would be better off going to Eagle Hardware (now Lowe's) or Home Depot and buying some plastic tubing. The stuff I bought is flexible, translucent white, and came in a coil. I think it's polyethylene. It seems to work fine. Terry ----- Original Message ----- > > I'm looking for flexible 3/8" or 1/2" conduit. Does anyone know of a > source for a small quantity? > > Dave Ford > RV6 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 18, 2001
From: Warren Hurd <warren(at)ahyup.com>
Subject: Sanding of Horizontal Stablizer Ribs
Good Day, How far should one file on the ribs? I seem to have gone a bit to far. I actually managed to crack one of the ribs. See http://www.ahyup.com for photos. I plan on getting new ribs. Going to bed now : ( Warren RV9 emp ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 18, 2001
Subject: Re: "Hot Tips" availability
In a message dated 12/17/2001 2:07:34 PM Pacific Standard Time, Owens(at)aerovironment.com writes: > Jim, > > Wow, those are some pricy tips. $485 for the tips without recesses for the > lights, plus $185 for the bulkhead kit (?, I assume it's the molded > recess). That's $670 for a set of tips????? Must be worth at least 20 kts > ;-) > > It looks like Van's had essencially the same tips now for the RV-7 for > $350, which includes the molded recess and lens for the nav/strobe lights. > > Maybe Massey needs to reevaluate their prices...... > > Laird > RV-6 SoCal > I have seen both, and you get what you pay for. As far as Masseys Tips go they fit good and they are well manufactured. Besides when has the price of anything mattered when it comes to airplanes. Tim Barnes Meangreen RV-4 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com>
Subject: Sanding of Horizontal Stablizer Ribs
Date: Dec 18, 2001
Why would you file the flange of the ribs in the first place? Make 'em lay flat with your fluting pliers, then drill, prime, rivet. In this sequence there is no filing. Get new ones. You will have plenty of time to file when you get to the fiberglass stuff. jim -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Warren Hurd Subject: RV-List: Sanding of Horizontal Stablizer Ribs Good Day, How far should one file on the ribs? I seem to have gone a bit to far. I actually managed to crack one of the ribs. See http://www.ahyup.com for photos. I plan on getting new ribs. Going to bed now : ( Warren RV9 emp ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 18, 2001
From: Doug Gray <douggray(at)ihug.com.au>
Subject: Re: Pushrod question?
Jack, Yep, they are tight indeed. Drill a hole in a small wood block deeper than the length of the treaded section of the rod end, such that the shoulder of the rod end rests on the wooded block. Then firmly tap the wood block on a concrete floor and the inertia of the push rod will be sufficient to seat the rod end in the tube. However I did cut 'v's in the tube ends to make fishmouth welded joints, this may have reduced the force required to insert the rod ends. BTW if you do plan to weld them, use your scotchbrite wheel to remove the cad plating before assembly otherwise this will boil out spoiling the weld fillet. Doug Gray Jack Textor wrote: > > Good morning, > When trying to fit the threaded ends onto the steel pushrods (bellcrank to > aileron) I found the fit to be very tight. Is it normal to have to ream out > the tube or file down the fitting? Thanks! > Jack Textor ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 18, 2001
From: Doug Gray <douggray(at)ihug.com.au>
Subject: Re: Flap Problems
Harvey, First check wiring, if OK then check the ground continuity between the flap motor and the battery ground. Seeing as you only experience this in flight, you may not measure a poor circuit on the ground. Try adding a temporary ground wire direct to see if this fixes matters. Remember that the primer we spend our lives covering all the bare aluminium with is by nature non-conductive. You may not be able to depend upon the ground continuity through the airframe. Doug Gray > Kind of sounds like a ground problem. I would start there. Make sure your > flap motor and switch are fully grounded and the connections are clean. > > > Listers: Need advice on intermittent operation of flaps in flight. What I > > experience from time to time flaps will not extend from 20 degrees to > full. > > Some times flaps will not retract from full down to up. At times when you > > start engine and attempt to retract flaps an arching sound can be heard > > through the headset with the radios operating. I am using the flap switch > > that Van supplied in the kit. Getting a little concerned as afraid flaps > > might stick down. Thanks in advance. > > Harvey Sigmon RV-6A N602RV flying 40 hours > > > > --- Harvey Sigmon > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WCruiser1(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 18, 2001
Subject: Attitude Gyro
I have started building my panel and I am looking for a Vacuum Attitude Gyro. Any preferences on Sigma-Tek vs RC Allen? Does anyone have a spare sitting on their bench, looking for a new home? Gary RV8A QB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Sanding of Horizontal Stablizer Ribs
Date: Dec 18, 2001
Warren, The bend radius doesn't get filed. Appears that the flat surface of the flanges are also filed which isn't necessary either. There are a couple of areas that need attention in aluminum. The edge, which comes square, needs to be rounded. Also, drilled holes need to be cleaned a little with a deburring tool. Sharp edges are areas where a stress buildup can cause a crack. Van's was smart in the way he planned the building of his planes. The tail kit contains a lot of learning curve! The structural integrity of the ribs are now questionable. I would buy new ribs if it were me. But, you may want to visit with Van's tech people and get their opinion. Another good idea is to get involved with some local RV builders who would gladly give you some guidance on building your RV. There are also sheet metal classes, which is the route I took before I started building, that travel around the country and give seminars. Building an RV for the first time is one lesson after another....some good and some not so good. Just keep building! Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok -6 ----- Original Message ----- From: Warren Hurd <warren(at)ahyup.com> Subject: RV-List: Sanding of Horizontal Stablizer Ribs > > Good Day, > How far should one file on the ribs? I seem to have gone a bit to far. I > actually managed to crack one of the ribs. See http://www.ahyup.com for > photos. I plan on getting new ribs. Going to bed now : ( > > Warren > RV9 emp > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com>
Subject: Re: Fw: info pack
Date: Dec 18, 2001
> If ATP thinks static thrust is important, that tells me that either > this is the only good number they can find to brag about, or they > don't know what they are doing. > > In flight performance, fuel consumption, reliability, operating > characteristics, parts cost and availability, etc are much more > relevant than static thrust. > > Kevin Horton Hear, Hear! Gordon Comfort N363GC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bernie Kerr" <kerrjb(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: hey bernie
Date: Dec 17, 2001
I know Nothing, not at TCAP. Maybe at Aero Acres Bernie ----- Original Message ----- From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: hey bernie > > care to explain this one? was it treasure coast? > > B. Reg. No.: 8183C M/M: PA18 Desc: PA-18 Super Cub (L-18C, L-21, > Activity: Pleasure Phase: Approach GA-A/C: General Aviation > Descr: ACFT GRAZED THE TOP OF A CAR WHILE ATTEMPTING TO LAND AT A PRIVATE > STRIP, THE ACFT LANDED WITHOUT FURTHER INCIDENT, EXTENT OF DAMAGE > TO THE CAR IS UNKNOWN, ST. LUCIE, FL. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Re: Sanding of Horizontal Stablizer Ribs
Date: Dec 18, 2001
Hi Warren, Yes it appears you have sanded or filed it too thin. Actually, you shouldn't be filing or sanding on the flat part of any of the ribs unless there is a scratch or gouge in the metal. All you need to do is deburr the edges. When the ribs are punched out of the large sheet of aluminum at the factory, it leaves a rough edge or burr. This rough edge must be smoothed slightly to prevent any stress points that may crack later. It should be just smoothed just enough so you can't see any tooling marks and it is smooth to the touch. Do not sand or file any flat areas as it is not needed and just thins the aluminum. I would order all new ribs and start again. My basic technique for ribs was to smooth the edges with a scotchbright wheel on my 6" bench grinder. You can get the scotchbright wheels at Avery tools on the internet: http://www.averytools.com or call them at 1-800-652-8379 for a catalog. Once the edges are smooth, the ribs were fluted to get them to lay flat. The only other attention needed is to deburr the holes (again slightly). Most beginners over-do the deburring and make the metal too thin around the hole. Just enough to be smooth is the trick. My final bit of advise is to get a little one-on-one time with another RV builder to learn some basics and maybe practice some riveting. Hey you could use your old ribs to practice on! Remember, this is an educational experience. I have a whole pile of RV parts and pieces in my hangar where I had to re-order it and do it over. Some folks have actually built two or three horizontal stabilizers because this your learning curve. No big deal. Believe it or not, I actually found a use for a lot of those parts and pieces later in the project. Happy building, Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS RV-6A N57ME (Flying but currently in the paint shop) www.ericsrv6a.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Warren Hurd <warren(at)ahyup.com> Subject: RV-List: Sanding of Horizontal Stablizer Ribs > > Good Day, > How far should one file on the ribs? I seem to have gone a bit to far. I > actually managed to crack one of the ribs. See http://www.ahyup.com for > photos. I plan on getting new ribs. Going to bed now : ( > > Warren > RV9 emp > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Hyd Lines..Kurt in OKC
Date: Dec 18, 2001
Mine has a 90* bulkhead fitting through fuse.next to gear leg.Makes it easy to repair brake line on gear leg which I just had to do. Ollie&Lorene Washburn RV6-A,N795LW,@ 97FL Loves Airpark ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Don Hyde <DonH(at)axonn.com>
Subject: Fw: info pack
Date: Dec 18, 2001
Static thrust is going to be about the only thrust measurement you can make on an engine test stand. So it's going to be the first number to come out. If static thrust is the only number they have to show, all it means is that they don't have the engine off the test stand yet. I think we already knew that without having to guess. Bottom line is it ain't nearly ready to bolt onto my airplane, so all I'm going to do is wait and see what comes of their efforts, and wish them well. > -----Original Message----- > From: Gordon or Marge Comfort [mailto:gcomfo(at)tc3net.com] > Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001 6:20 AM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Fw: info pack > > > > > > > If ATP thinks static thrust is important, that tells me that either > > this is the only good number they can find to brag about, or they > > don't know what they are doing. > > > > In flight performance, fuel consumption, reliability, operating > > characteristics, parts cost and availability, etc are much more > > relevant than static thrust. > > > > Kevin Horton > > > Hear, Hear! > > Gordon Comfort > N363GC > > > ========== > ========== > ========== > ========== > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: HP vs Torque with turbines
Date: Dec 18, 2001
From: Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
> > >I have a question that I am having a difficult time understanding. Is it >better to have an engine with more torque output, or more HP. Horsepower is what determines how fast we can fly. It can be produced be high rpm and low torque or low torque and high rpm, but propellers work well only in limited rpm ranges, which complicates things. >It sounds like the fuel burn will be quite a bit higher than a >piston, Yep. >I also wonder about the gyroscopic impact of something spinning at 60k rpm. >Would it be suitable for mild aerobatics? An F-16 is no Pitts, but it can do pretty good aerobatics. Seems to roll real well. Haven't ever seen an F-16 do a tumbling maneuver though. Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM RV-6 N441LP http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Removable instrument panel (was Removeable top skin)
Date: Dec 18, 2001
By the time you have a dozen or more wires tie-wrapped in a bundle it becomes very stiff and does not move around. When you have a bundle from the entire breaker panel it is will stay where you put it -- use care in dressing the cable runs so you get a nice service loop. Flopping and chaffing are not a problem. A couple of sacrificial ty-wraps can always be used if you want the ultimate in secured wiring. Dennis ----- Original Message ----- From: <HCRV6(at)aol.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Removable instrument panel (was Removeable top skin) > > In a message dated 12/17/01 2:16:11 PM Pacific Standard Time, > dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net writes: > > << you have to make really long service loops to take advantage of the > removability feature. >> > > Dennis: How do you secure the service loops to prevent them from flopping > around behind the panel and causing mischief? > > Harry Crosby > Pleasanton, California > RV-6, finish kit stuff > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com>
Subject: value of our airplanes
Date: Dec 18, 2001
It is the time of year my insurance company wants me to adjust anything I need to in my insurance policy. One of the mysteries is trying to value the airplane for hull damage, replacement, etc. I know one doesn't want to undervalue your airplane. What is the average value of these airplanes? Suzie Q is an RV-4 with 570+ hours on a new Lyc O320 with wood prop. What is she worth, plus or minus equipment? (Priceless, to me. What to the insurance company?) Michael ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 18, 2001
From: Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com>
Subject: value of our airplanes
If you have an on-line subscription to Trade-A-Plane -> http://www.trade-a-plane.com/unprotected/static/adsubinfo.html You can use their "Evaluator" to give you an idea of worth -> http://www.trade-a-plane.com/protected/static/naaa.html -Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of KostaLewis Subject: RV-List: value of our airplanes It is the time of year my insurance company wants me to adjust anything I need to in my insurance policy. One of the mysteries is trying to value the airplane for hull damage, replacement, etc. I know one doesn't want to undervalue your airplane. What is the average value of these airplanes? Suzie Q is an RV-4 with 570+ hours on a new Lyc O320 with wood prop. What is she worth, plus or minus equipment? (Priceless, to me. What to the insurance company?) Michael ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Attitude Gyro
Date: Dec 18, 2001
Gary, I purchased the Sigma Tek gyros and they are beautiful. The only issue I have seen after months of reserach basically comes down to personal preference. Another builder near me has RCAllens, and I also like them. There is only one big difference, My attitude gyro is almost 2 inches deeper than the RC Allen. My gyro is 8" deep and the RC allen is only 6.25". I don't know about panel space in the -8, but the -6 is tight. Cheers, Stein Bruch RV6, Minneapolis, Cowling. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of WCruiser1(at)aol.com Subject: RV-List: Attitude Gyro I have started building my panel and I am looking for a Vacuum Attitude Gyro. Any preferences on Sigma-Tek vs RC Allen? Does anyone have a spare sitting on their bench, looking for a new home? Gary RV8A QB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net>
Subject: Re: value of our airplanes
Date: Dec 18, 2001
Just a suggestion (from an aviation insurance agent) about undervaluing the airplane... Don't forget that the agreed value does 2 things: 1. It is the value (agreed upon by you and the insurance company) that will be paid to you in the event of a total loss (minus deductible). 2. It is the threshold at which the aircraft is considered a total loss (this is for those of you who insure a $75000 airplane for $50000 to save $ on insurance premium.) In such a case where you under value the airplane, when the repair cost estimates reach that value, it becomes a total loss even if there is salvage value left. The insurance company pays you the $50,000 (minus deductible) and then they own the airplane salvage. Most of the companies will offer you the salvage (at the value offered by the highest salvage bidder usually) before they sell it to a salvage dealer. If you did exactly $50000 in damage to your a/c, then you would in essence receive only $25000 for your claim if you bought back the salvage. In short it can lower the amount of insurance coverage in a "technical" total loss that isn't actually a total loss (i.e. the aircraft burns to a crisp.) John "JT" Helms ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill VonDane" <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> Subject: RE: RV-List: value of our airplanes If you have an on-line subscription to Trade-A-Plane -> http://www.trade-a-plane.com/unprotected/static/adsubinfo.html You can use their "Evaluator" to give you an idea of worth -> http://www.trade-a-plane.com/protected/static/naaa.html -Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of KostaLewis Subject: RV-List: value of our airplanes It is the time of year my insurance company wants me to adjust anything I need to in my insurance policy. One of the mysteries is trying to value the airplane for hull damage, replacement, etc. I know one doesn't want to undervalue your airplane. What is the average value of these airplanes? Suzie Q is an RV-4 with 570+ hours on a new Lyc O320 with wood prop. What is she worth, plus or minus equipment? (Priceless, to me. What to the insurance company?) Michael ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 18, 2001
From: Andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: san primer
Ed (and other), Thanks for your comments. Before I've always given one pump and then turned the key. If it was real cold, I'd give 2 pumps. From your comments and others, I'll change that procedure to on normal days 1 pump while the prop is turning, and on real cold days 1 pump first and a 2nd while the prop turns. As battery power is low on very cold days and I'm concerned about wasting whatever battery I have turing the engine before any fuel is introduced. I also think I'll drill a small hole in the air filter housing to let any puddling fuel drain. I'll frame a piece of Chamoix cloth over the hole to preserve the air filters function. Andy Word of caution.Be sure you get the prop (starter) spinning full tilt before you activate the acceleration pump (throttle). One backfire and you'll have a heck of an engine fire with the carburetor and oily air inlet filter full of raw gas.If you do get get an engine fire, keep your starter turning and hope you injest the raw burning fuel.Since you are in cold climes, you prob'ly are aware of all this, but just in case.I don't mean to cast aspersions. I live in Minnesota.I built both my RV-6 (576 flying hrs) and RV-8 (presently 209 flying hrs) with no priming system, for the very reasons you spoke to, mainly too much junk in the engine compt to go haywire, but I am keenly aware of the potential hazard. It's a world of trade-offs.Best regards ,Ed Jungst ________________________________________________________________________________
From: CW9371(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 18, 2001
Subject: Re: HP vs Torque with turbines
In a message dated 12/18/2001 1:23:16 PM Central Standard Time, bedrock(at)theriver.com writes: > Nah it's a T-34A with an IO 520 check it out at www.americanaerobatics.com the oracle raven had a turbine engine. the plane had some much power it could hover. Awesome sight to bad it crashed 2 years ago i think when he hit the runway doing a loop. chris ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV4" <VansRV4GRVMJ(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: value of our airplanes
Date: Dec 18, 2001
. What is the average value of these airplanes? > Suzie Q is an RV-4 with 570+ hours on a new Lyc O320 with wood prop. What is > she worth, plus or minus equipment? (Priceless, to me. What to the insurance > company?) Hi, go to tradeaplane.com there's a valuation programme somewhere on the site, it lets you put all the specific details of your plane in before you value it. Mracel ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 18, 2001
Subject: Re: Attitude Gyro
In a message dated 12/18/01 10:59:16 AM Pacific Standard Time, stein(at)steinair.com writes: << My gyro is 8" deep and the RC allen is only 6.25" >> Stein: Thanks. This is very helpful information. I have been trying to decide between them also and this point escaped me. Does this apply to the DG also? Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, finish kit stuff ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Spray-Lat (was: Canopy paper)
Date: Dec 18, 2001
From: "Todd Wenzel" <TWenzel@heartland-software.com>
Do you think one quart is enough for an RV8A canopy? Also, is it advisable to do both sides or only the outside of the canopy? Todd Wenzel Delafield, WI RV-8AQB - Fuse mailto:TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com -----Original Message----- From: Stein Bruch [mailto:stein(at)steinair.com] Subject: RE: RV-List: Spray-Lat (was: Canopy paper) This "goopy" canopy stuff is called Spray-Lat. It can be purchased from Aircraft Spruce or Wicks. It is great stuff. Brush it on and peel it off when you're ready. I learned of it from another builder here in Minneapolis. Here's the URL from ACS. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/spraylat.php Good Luck Stein Bruch, RV6, Minneapolis, Cowling. ........................................................................ .... ........................................................................ .... ...................................... You know, in the service we had some nasty stuff that was thick and gooey that we painted on the lexan. It dried to a very durable but yet somewhat soft film. Kind of like rubber cement. You could bump it, hit it, and inadvertently scratch it with a blunt object without any damage to the underlying surface. It was the all-around protectant while the aircraft was in maintenance. When ready, you could peel it off like a facial mask with no damage to the plex. I was in a helicopter completion center about 3 years ago, and they were still using it. Anyone know what this stuff is called? I forgot after the years.... PJ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 18, 2001
From: Earl Fortner <efortner(at)vnet.net>
Subject: Re: Canopy paper
It is called SPRAYLAT. You can get it a Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Co. in quart bottles. 1/2 a bottle is enough. Earl RV4 Shrike(at)aol.com wrote: > > You know, in the service we had some nasty stuff that was thick and gooey > that we painted on the lexan. > > It dried to a very durable but yet somewhat soft film. Kind of like rubber > cement. You could bump it, hit it, and inadvertently scratch it with a blunt > object without any damage to the underlying surface. It was the all-around > protectant while the aircraft was in maintenance. > > When ready, you could peel it off like a facial mask with no damage to the > plex. > > I was in a helicopter completion center about 3 years ago, and they were > still using it. > > Anyone know what this stuff is called? > > I forgot after the years.... > > PJ > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Spray-Lat (was: Canopy paper)
From: Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
Date: Dec 18, 2001
04:30:14 PM Definitely two quarts. The thicker it goes on the easier it comes off. BTW, you can reduce it 50% with water and spray it with your paint gun. Just do several good coats. "Todd Wenzel" <TWenzel@heartland-software.com>@matronics.com on 12/18/2001 03:46:30 PM Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com cc: Subject: RE: RV-List: Spray-Lat (was: Canopy paper) <TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com> Do you think one quart is enough for an RV8A canopy? Also, is it advisable to do both sides or only the outside of the canopy? Todd Wenzel Delafield, WI RV-8AQB - Fuse mailto:TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com -----Original Message----- From: Stein Bruch [mailto:stein(at)steinair.com] Subject: RE: RV-List: Spray-Lat (was: Canopy paper) This "goopy" canopy stuff is called Spray-Lat. It can be purchased from Aircraft Spruce or Wicks. It is great stuff. Brush it on and peel it off when you're ready. I learned of it from another builder here in Minneapolis. Here's the URL from ACS. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/spraylat.php Good Luck Stein Bruch, RV6, Minneapolis, Cowling. ........................................................................ .... ........................................................................ .... ...................................... You know, in the service we had some nasty stuff that was thick and gooey that we painted on the lexan. It dried to a very durable but yet somewhat soft film. Kind of like rubber cement. You could bump it, hit it, and inadvertently scratch it with a blunt object without any damage to the underlying surface. It was the all-around protectant while the aircraft was in maintenance. When ready, you could peel it off like a facial mask with no damage to the plex. I was in a helicopter completion center about 3 years ago, and they were still using it. Anyone know what this stuff is called? I forgot after the years.... PJ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Attitude Gyro
Date: Dec 18, 2001
Harry, The D.G.'s are more or less the same size. We held the RC Allen's Next to my Sigma Teks and they weigh about the same (elbow scale) and with the exception of the Horizon Length they are about the same depth,etc... One more thing, my horizon is cageable, without that mechanism on the back you'll save about 1/2-3/4" as the caging mechanism takes up room on the back. Personally I liked the faces of the Sigma Tek's better, but it's all up to the "beholder". Cheers, Stein. RV6, Minneapolis, Cowling -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of HCRV6(at)aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Attitude Gyro In a message dated 12/18/01 10:59:16 AM Pacific Standard Time, stein(at)steinair.com writes: << My gyro is 8" deep and the RC allen is only 6.25" >> Stein: Thanks. This is very helpful information. I have been trying to decide between them also and this point escaped me. Does this apply to the DG also? Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, finish kit stuff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 18, 2001
Subject: Re: HP vs Torque with turbines
there is a video of the incident. i saw it do a loop and pancake it in. i think he mentioned something about the prop not responding and was looking to use it as a speed break. wayne hanley is the guys name. scott tampa ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JDaniel343(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 18, 2001
Subject: Re: conduit
Try an Electronic Supply store. John Danielson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net>
Subject: Garmin 430 AD
Date: Dec 18, 2001
----- Original Message ----- From: <JNice51355(at)aol.com> > Folks > Not sure of the price of these updates, but please note that there is an AD > out on the 430 models now. It has to do with inacurrate CDI and HSI > readings, and supposedly Jim and other 430 owners: I called Garmin the other day and the tech rep says this problem was fixed in production two years ago. I bought my 430 over a year ago and it has the fix incorported. Seems the FAA is a little slow in getting around to addressing this problem. I also asked when the warrenty started, and he said it normally starts when the 337 is filled out, but since we don't need 337s, he considers it starting after you have flight tested the unit and found eveything is OK. He also said, and this is something the dealer didn't tell me, probably because he doesn't know this, that Garmin will send out an updated data card at no cost on a one time basis after you get the airplane flying. Sure hope he's right on this. I hope to find out in about three months. Mike Robbins RV8Q 80591 N88NJ starting the baffling bafflings Seattle area ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "S6ES116" <s6es116(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Ig'nert Question
Date: Dec 18, 2001
OK- actually two questions- 1: Is there such thing as an aftermarket "taller" canopy that can be retro-fit to an existing RV-4? I'm 6'4" and am looking at used -4's; height is obviously a consideration. Is this hopeless? 2: Are there any -4 sliders out there or does the roll-bar make this an impossibility? Looking forward to hearing from you all. drc ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Technology Kitchen Engine Performance Monitor
Date: Dec 19, 2001
Help me. Has anyone purchased a Technology Kitchen Engine Performance Monitor for their not yet flying RV. I have been planing on getting one to replace my tach, but could not justify the cost. Well, my tach just went to the big instrument junkpile in the sky. So I can spend a bit more than the $200 for a decent mechanical tach and get what I want. The only problem is that Tech Kitchen sold the Mfg rights of the unit to Alcor. Tech kitchen doesn't have any in stock and Alcor isn't planning on begining production until March. So, someone may be able to help me out of a pinch if you have one and aren't ready to use it yet. If you've got one, send me a message off list so we can talk $$$. I'm not looking for any discounts. Thanks, Don Mei MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 18, 2001
Subject: Re: Louisiana rv'ers?
dear listers i'll be in the Lafayette,/ Opelousas area this week with some time to spare. are there any RV projects around that area that i might can stop by and look at? scott tampa ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Shrike(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 18, 2001
Subject: Re: value of our airplanes
Just one fine point regarding insurance: total loss = cost of repairs + salvage value >or = to insured value ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Shrike(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 18, 2001
Subject: pedal position
You know, I am used to my feet being spread around a cluster of garb made by Litton. Has anyone managed to separate the pedals toward the fuselage sides rather than close together in the center ala spamcan. (RV-8) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: Checklist
Date: Dec 18, 2001
Ah well, Don't ya love the FARS 43.15 requires the use of a checklist for 100hr/annuals, but 43.1b exempts experimentals from Part 43. There is no reference to an Annual Condition Inspection in the FARS. And I have that from one of the top people in the FAA as well as over 90 years combined research on the fars in our A&P school. But, your Special Airworthiness Certificate limitations may include such requirements as these are strictly drawn up by local FSDO's and are not necessarily consistent across the country. All that said, use a checklist for any inspection, and be willing to evolve it as needed, both during aircraft use and during aircraft inspections. FAR 43 App D is a reasonable start for a minimum checklist, with a heavy emphasis on minimum. There is no requirement for logbooks entries to be in separate log books, or even in a log book. You can use a table napkin as desired, as long as it will last for one year, for most types of entries. FAR 43.11a4 uses the verbage "I certify that this aircraft has been inspected in accordance with (insert type) inspection and was determined to be in airworthy condition." This is the King's verbage, use it, least you end up in the King's court someday. Never reference which checklist you used as this is not required and such reference can be used against you in civil litagation. Just make sure that it at least meets the minimums set forth in 43 app D. Civil litagation (the jury) won't care that exp's are exempt from FAR 43. Then stick to that story until your lawyer says otherwise. ;{) W ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruno" <fo320(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Loran Database update
Date: Dec 18, 2001
Hello Listers A lot of guys on the list have been inquiring about database update and I wondered if any of you know of a place other than Jeppesen or UPS Avionics where I can purchase an update for my Apollo Flybuddy 800 loran.If you know of one in Canada,it will be even better. Thanks Bruno Dionne C-GDBH RV-4 fo320(at)sympatico.ca ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: seat pads
Date: Dec 18, 2001
> Looking for advise on where to get padding for building the seat bottoms > and backs. Thanks in advance. Oregon Aero makes seat foam that is form fitting with curving contours. http://www.oregonaero.com/ http://www.oregonaero.com/p33_2001.htm Their foam is of the highest quality and is also fire resistant. Downside is that they might be the most expensive option. Norman Hunger RV6A Delta BC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject: Re: Garmin 430 AD
Date: Dec 19, 2001
Mike, Garmin said the same thing to me last week. I got mine at Stark Aviation so when I get in the air (Late Summer) of 2002 I will give him a call. Info for the list: John is getting a Stec Alt Hold together for my RV6-A to compliment the Navaid I will be using. The price is $2916.00 including custom installation kit. Prices increase 1-01-2002 so if anyone is considering this it might be the time. Tom in Ohio ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> Subject: RV-List: Garmin 430 AD > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <JNice51355(at)aol.com> > > Folks > > Not sure of the price of these updates, but please note that there is an > AD > > out on the 430 models now. It has to do with inacurrate CDI and HSI > > readings, and supposedly > > > Jim and other 430 owners: I called Garmin the other day and the tech rep > says this problem was fixed in production two years ago. I bought my 430 > over a year ago and it has the fix incorported. Seems the FAA is a little > slow in getting around to addressing this problem. I also asked when the > warrenty started, and he said it normally starts when the 337 is filled out, > but since we don't need 337s, he considers it starting after you have flight > tested the unit and found eveything is OK. He also said, and this is > something the dealer didn't tell me, probably because he doesn't know this, > that Garmin will send out an updated data card at no cost on a one time > basis after you get the airplane flying. Sure hope he's right on this. I > hope to find out in about three months. > > Mike Robbins > RV8Q 80591 N88NJ starting the baffling bafflings > Seattle area > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dave ford" <dford(at)michweb.net>
Subject: oil dipstick tube
Date: Dec 19, 2001
I am rebuilding an O360A1A that when purchased did not receive the oil dipstick or dipstick tube. According to the Lycoming parts manual there are 4 or 5 different lengths for the dipstick and matched tube. Can someone give me the length of their dipstick tube (no jokes please) for their RV6/6A and cowl? Dave Ford RV6 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 19, 2001
From: N13eer(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: pedal position
Has anyone managed to separate the pedals toward the fuselage sides rather than close together in the center ala spamcan. ----------------------------------------------------- Lyle Hefel did this on both of his -8s by using the hanging pedels from a -6. However it also requires re-routing the rudder cables down the side wall rather than under the floor. It also changes the front bagage area, if I remember correctly he had to raise the bagage floor a couple inches for clearance. Alan Kritzman RV-8 Cedar Rapids, IA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Nightingale Michael" <NightingaleMichael(at)JohnDeere.com>
"'Nightingale Chad'" , "'rv-list(at)matronics.com'" , "'Van Hulle Bob'" , "'Lees, Jim'" , "Lundeen Rick T" , "Huitt Lonnie R" , "Hess Gary J" , "Garza Dan P" , "'Galley Cy'" , "'Franck Ron'" , "Fisher Paul" , "Fey Don" , "English Dennis J" , "Coulter Donald" , "Beert Stephen R" , "'Vahrenwald John'" , "'Williams Keith'" , "'Smith Jim'" <387js(at)netexpress.net>, "Foecking Kirk W"
Subject: FW: FW: thoughts from a recruiter
Date: Dec 19, 2001
> > Subject: thoughts from a recruiter > > > > > > > > > Two things attached. The first is a bumper sticker making the rounds. > > The > > > second reminds us of Hanoi Jane's despicable, unforgivable behavior. > > > > > > "It is God's job to forgive Bin Laden. It is the Marine's job to > > arrange > > > the meeting!" > > > > > > KEEP THIS MOVING ACROSS AMERICA - HONORING A TRAITOR > > > > > > > > This is for all the kids born in the 70's that do not > > > > remember this, and didn't have to bear the burden, > > > > that our fathers, mothers, and older brothers and > > > > sisters had to bear. > > > > > > > > Jane Fonda is being honored as one of the "100 Women > > > > of the Century." Unfortunately, many have forgotten > > > > and still countless others have never known how Ms. > > > > Fonda betrayed not only the idea of our country but > > > > specific men who served and sacrificed during > > > > Vietnam. > > > > > > > > The first part of this is from an F-4E pilot. The > > > > pilot's name is Jerry Driscoll, a River Rat. In 1978, > > > > the former Commandant of the USAF Survival School > > > > was a POW in Ho Lo Prison - the "Hanoi Hilton." > > > > Dragged from a stinking cesspit of a cell, cleaned, > > > > fed, and dressed in clean PJs, he was ordered to > > > > describe for a visiting American "Peace Activist" > > > > the "lenient and humane treatment" he'd received. He > > > > spat at Ms. Fonda, was clubbed, and dragged away. > > > > > > > > During the subsequent beating, he fell forward upon > > > > the camp Commandant's feet, which sent that officer > > > > berserk. In '78, the AF Col. still suffered from > > > > double vision (which permanently ended his flying > > > > days) from the Vietnamese Col.'s frenzied application > > > > of a wooden baton. From 1963-65, Col. Larry Carrigan > > > > was in the 47FW/DO (F-4Es). He spent 6 -years in the > > > > "Hilton"- the first three of which he was "missing in > > > > action". His wife lived on faith that he was still > > > > alive. His group, too, got the cleaned/fed/clothed > > > > routine in preparation for a "peace delegation" visit. > > > > > > > > They, however, had time and devised a plan to get word > > > > to the world that they still survived. Each man > > > > secreted a tiny piece of paper, with his SSN on it, > > > > in the palm of his hand. When paraded before Ms. Fonda > > > > and a cameraman, she walked the line, shaking each man's > > > > hand and asking little encouraging snippets like: > > > > "Aren't you sorry you bombed babies?" and "Are you > > > > grateful for the humane treatment from your benevolent > > > > captors?" Believing this HAD to be an act, they each > > > > palmed her their sliver of paper. > > > > > > > > She took them all without missing a beat. At the end > > > > of the line and once the camera stopped rolling, to > > > > the shocked disbelief of the POWs, she turned to the > > > > officer in charge and handed him the little pile of > > > > papers. Three men died from the subsequent beatings. > > > > Col. Carrigan was almost number four but he survived, > > > > which is the only reason we know about, her actions > > > > that day. > > > > > > > > I was a civilian economic development advisor in > > > > Vietnam, and was captured by the North Vietnamese > > > > communists in South Vietnam in 1968, and held for > > > > over 5 years. I spent 27 months in solitary > > > > confinement, one year in a cage in Cambodia, and > > > > one year in a "black box" in Hanoi. My North > > > > Vietnamese captors deliberately poisoned and > > > > murdered a female missionary, a nurse in a > > > > leprosarium in Ban me Thuot, South Vietnam, whom I > > > > buried in the jungle near the Cambodian border. > > > > > > > > At one time, I was weighing approximately 90 lbs. > > > > (My normal weight is 170 lbs.) We were Jane Fonda's > > > > "war criminals." > > > > When Jane Fonda was in Hanoi, I was asked > > > > by the camp communist political officer if I would be > > > > willing to meet with Jane Fonda. I said yes, for > > > > I would like to tell her about the real treatment > > > > we POWs received different from the treatment > > > > purported by the North Vietnamese, and parroted > > > > by Jane Fonda, as "humane and lenient." Because of > > > > this, I spent three days on a rocky floor on my > > > > knees with outstretched arms with a large amount > > > > of steel placed on my hands, and beaten with a > > > > bamboo cane till my arms dipped. > > > > I had the opportunity to meet with Jane Fonda for a > > > > couple of hours after I was released. I asked her if > > > > she would be willing to debate me on TV. She did not > > > > answer me. > > > > > > > > This does not exemplify someone who should be honored > > > > as part of "100 Years of Great Women." Lest we forget > > > > "100 years of great women" should never include a > > > > traitor whose hands are covered with the blood of so > > > > many patriots. There are few things I have strong > > > > visceral reactions to, but Hanoi Jane's participation > > > > in blatant treason, is one of them. > > > > > > > > Please take the time to forward to as many people as > > > > you possibly can. It will eventually end up on her > > > > computer and she needs to know that we will never > > > > forget. > > > > <> From: Tracie Dahl <Dahl_tracie(at)xpac.com> "'Glen and Michelle Hostens'" "'Kathy Huybers'" , "'Kris Schott'" "'Kristin O'Reilly'" , "'Mary Leaser'" , "'Mom'" , "'Rachel Nowlin'" , "'Tracey Frade'" Subject: FW: thoughts from a recruiter Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 09:48:59 -0600 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 19, 2001
From: Gary Gunn <ggunn(at)qwest.net>
Subject: Re: Loran Database update
Bruno, Try www.iimorrow.com they may have some info. Gary Gunn Bruno wrote: > > Hello Listers > A lot of guys on the list have been inquiring about database > update and I wondered if any of you know of a place other than Jeppesen or > UPS Avionics where I can purchase an update for my Apollo Flybuddy 800 > loran.If you know of one in Canada,it will be even better. > > Thanks > > Bruno Dionne > C-GDBH RV-4 > fo320(at)sympatico.ca > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 19, 2001
Subject: Re: value of our airplanes
Shrike(at)aol.com writes: > Just one fine point regarding insurance: > > total loss = cost of repairs + salvage value >or = to insured value > It may be a fine point, but you lost me. Plug in some hypotheticals: say I under-insure my plane for a mere 20K, and do $100 worth of damage in a hangar rash mishap. The salvage value of the plane is easily, say, $35K even in its damaged condition. I apply for insurance payout on the damage. Cost of repairs =$100. Slavage =$35,000. Total=$35,100, which is greater than the $20,000 of insurance. According to your formula, this means they define my plane as a total loss. In fact, they could total my plane even without damage, if this formula is correct. I must be missing something here. Help me understand what you mean. -BB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John & Teresa Huft" <widgeon92L(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Fw: info pack
Date: Dec 18, 2001
Kevin, you are exactly right, in fact, the prop with the lowest static thrust proved to be the fastest. The 180/185 boys are interested more in low speed thrust, since they like short strips, and float flying. I was thinking though, that the numbers given by ATP, 240 hp giving 600 lbs of thrust, is rather low compared to even the lowest figure, 230 hp giving 740 lbs of thrust. Horsepower, in fact. is trust times velocity, so usually is not related to static thrust anyway, except when using a "test club" type prop on an engine stand. Anyway, I am not buying their numbers, power or specific fuel consumption. Time will tell. John rv8 fwf -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kevin Horton Subject: RE: RV-List: Fw: info pack The problem with focusing on static thrust is that we don't spend much time in that condition. We are much more interested in how much thrust the engine/combination puts out in flight, at relevant airspeeds (climb at VX, climb at VY, cruise, etc). The prop efficiency, and hence the thrust, varies significantly as the operating condition varies. Props are generally designed to have their best efficiency in the cruise condition, and many of them have very low efficiency in the static condition, as the blades are partially stalled. If ATP thinks static thrust is important, that tells me that either this is the only good number they can find to brag about, or they don't know what they are doing. In flight performance, fuel consumption, reliability, operating characteristics, parts cost and availability, etc are much more relevant than static thrust. Kevin Horton > >Interesting... > >A few years ago, a gang of 180/185 club members got to testing different >props. They used a hydraulic tension meter (like a hefty fish scale), >attached to the bumper of a pick-up, and tested every airplane in sight (it >was a club flyin). These are static thrust numbers. > >Low - 78" Hartzell Scimitar prop on a 230 Hp o-470 (C-180) - 740 pounds of >thrust > >High - 88" McCauley 401 prop on a 300 Hp IO-520 (C-185) - 1120 pounds of >thrust > >I wonder how that relates to the numbers given by ATP? Kevin? > >John > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; RV7and7A(at)yahoogroups.com; >SoCAL-RVlist(at)yahoogroups.com; rv7-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Fw: info pack > > >Finally got some info about the ATP powerplant... > >)_( Dan >dan(at)rvproject.com >http://www.rvproject.com:8000 > > >Dear Sir, >Here is some information on the 6.5 uncertified turbine engine. >Weight 185 lbs >Length 32'' overall to prop flange >Diameter 12 1/2" maximum located at the hot section > 10" diameter of gearbox >Height 16" overall located at accessory pad on gearbox >Burns JetA, Kerosene, Diesel and Gasoline > The preferred fuels are JetA and Kerosene >Four point conical mount >20 to 1 double planetary gearbox >Gearbox designed for 500 hp continuous 600 hp peak >Example ( If turbine is turning 60,000 rpm prop turning 3000 rpm) >Single stage radial flow turbine centrifugal compressor >Electronic fuel injection >Electronic ignition >120hp 10.7 gals/hr 300 lbs thrust at 2650 rpm >180hp 13.3 gals/hr 450lbs thrust at 2750 rpm >240hp 16.6 gals/hr 600lbs thrust at 3000rpm >maximum rpm at propeller 3200 rpm >usable rpm range in fight 2500 to 3200 rpm >Designed to operate efficiently at variable rpm >We already have a pusher. We plan on debuting it at Sun n Fun 2002. >Production starts in Jan. 2002. We are offering a pre-production price of >23,000.00 only by putting down your deposit of 25%. We will soon be able to >accept your deposit on a secure area of our website. >Thanks for interest in ATP if you are in need of further information please >feel free to email or call. You can visit our web page at www.atpcoinc.com >or the ATP Yahoo Group at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ATP1 >We hope to hear from you soon! >Take Care, >Heather L. Mitchell >Director of Internet Sales > >-- > >On Sat, 3 Nov 2001 10:08:43 Dan Checkoway wrote: >>Please send me as much information as possible, including the info video if >>it's available. >> >>Dan Checkoway >>2420 N. Flower St. >>Santa Ana, CA 92706 >> >>Thanks, >>)_( Dan >>dan(at)rvproject.com >>http://www.rvproject.com > > >> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Waalkes" <waalkes(at)netnitco.net>
Subject: RV-4 Jig
Date: Dec 19, 2001
There was a post a few weeks ago for an available steel jig for RV-4 in the Chicago area. Is it still available? Bob Waalkes RV-4 Fuse LaPorte, IN ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net>
Subject: Re: value of our airplanes
Date: Dec 19, 2001
To clarify Shrikes post: Insurance is designed to indemnify the owner. That means to bring you back to the position you were in prior to the loss (whether that is financial or by getting you a like airplane.) However, if you agree to under insure the value, in a serious loss you could lose (see examples below.) IF there is salvage value, that goes to the insurance company after they sell that salvage (whether they sell it to you or to a salvage dealer.) The amount to which the insurance company promises to indemnify you is the AGREED VALUE (agreed to by you and them). If your aircraft is actually worth 75000 and you ask the insurance company to insure it for 50000 (to save $ on the premium you pay), and they agree, then you have an accident and the repairs amount to 50000 (or close to that). The insurance company will pay you 50000 for your loss. If you want to buy the salvage (avionics and engine lets say) for the highest bid the company has received, you can. Lets say that is 20000. Then you have received 30000 for a 50000 claim (in essence) and it was your decision to do so (because you asked to insure it for the 50000). In the scenario with the same values (75000 airplane, yet you insure it for 50000), but you lose your aircraft in an accident where for example lightning stikes your airplane at the gas pump and your airplane burns to a crisp. In that case you would receive 50000 for your 75000 airplane. Insurance companies are not in the business to cheat customers out of money by allowing them to under insure their airplanes and make money on the salvage. They can help to prevent this situation when insuring production airplanes by insuring aircraft within 20% of the bluebook value. With Homebuilts it is much more difficult as there is no bluebook value to use. Generally, for newly completed RVs if you are trying to insure it outside of 50-75K I will ask questions about the engine and avionics to help you assess the value. My advice: No matter who you insure through, don't try to save $200 and end up losing so much more when you have a major loss. It would take 100 years of paying an extra $200 a year to overcome your loss for a 20000 differential in actual value versus agreed value. John "JT" Helms ----- Original Message ----- From: <Shrike(at)aol.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: value of our airplanes Just one fine point regarding insurance: total loss = cost of repairs + salvage value >or = to insured value ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net>
Subject: Re: value of our airplanes
Date: Dec 19, 2001
The salvage value is only going to come into play if there is a question of whether or not is is close to being a total loss. In some scenarios (if you have your aircraft insured to its actual value) it may be more advantageous to you to have the company pay the total loss as opposed to fixing the airplane. If you do not have it insured to its actual value you will always lose in a major loss. In your example, the company would pay the loss (minus the deductible.) and salvage value would not enter into the equation. John "JT" Helms ----- Original Message ----- From: <SportAV8R(at)aol.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: value of our airplanes Shrike(at)aol.com writes: > Just one fine point regarding insurance: > > total loss = cost of repairs + salvage value >or = to insured value > It may be a fine point, but you lost me. Plug in some hypotheticals: say I under-insure my plane for a mere 20K, and do $100 worth of damage in a hangar rash mishap. The salvage value of the plane is easily, say, $35K even in its damaged condition. I apply for insurance payout on the damage. Cost of repairs =$100. Slavage =$35,000. Total=$35,100, which is greater than the $20,000 of insurance. According to your formula, this means they define my plane as a total loss. In fact, they could total my plane even without damage, if this formula is correct. I must be missing something here. Help me understand what you mean. -BB ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: oil dipstick tube
From: "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)SUPERIORAIRPARTS.COM>
Date: Dec 19, 2001
12/19/2001 10:14:44 AM actually there are 3 sizes available from Lycoming for your engine. The most popular, and the one we use on the XP360 is the intermediate length which is part # LW14780 and uses the 75767 tube assy with the 74065 seal. You can get these from any Lycoming distributor, or you may want to try Mattituck @800-624-6680 or Western Skyways @ 800-575-9929. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net>
Subject: Re: Checklist
Date: Dec 19, 2001
Wheeler has it correct...earlier postings suggesting (stating) that a written check list is a REQUIREMENT are in error. Wheeler's posting is exactly on point. John at Salida, CO ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lkyswede(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 19, 2001
Subject: Re: Fw: info pack
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 19, 2001
From: Warren Hurd <warren(at)ahyup.com>
Subject: Sanding of Horizontal Stablizer Ribs
Thanks to all that have replied to my post. I have ordered four new ribs from Vans; I will mike them and compare to the damage that I have inflicted on the rest of the ribs. I was certainly way too aggressive on the first four ribs. Not to excuse my over ambition, but to provide a rational, I refer to some of the fine print in Fig. 6.2 "file tab until rib contour is smooth". Well, I must have had thoughts of crafting the final airfoil shape on the rib itself. Keep on pounding them rivets. Be careful with that file though. Warren http://www.ahyup.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 19, 2001
From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: Crimping 8awg terminals
Well, I'm just about done with my airframe wiring (panel wiring in progress) and I've come to my alternator. The large wire supplied in Van's wiring harness kit is 8awg and comes with an appropriately sized crimp-on insulated ring terminal. My question is: how the heck do I crimp this puppy? My racheting crimper's yellow (10-12awg) dies do fit around the 8awg terminal, but I can't even begin to squeeze it. What have others done here? -- Regards, Ken Balch Ashland, MA RV-8 #81125 (N118KB) finishing wiring groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 19, 2001
From: "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com>
"rv-list(at)matronics.com"
Subject: VGs in slow flight--flight report
All-- Have had the Vetterman distributed VGs on for almost 50 hrs. I have the clipped wings and Rocket wingtips like a HR II, on the Super 6. As far as I can tell from IAS and 3-way GPS runs at multiple altitudes, the top speed is not affected, but I've made some other airframe mods. The slow end of the envelope is another matter. My "short field" take-off is directly out of the 3-pt stance, holding back pressure and getting airborne in just about half the distance of a "normal" take-off roll (with raising the tail and then flying off from the mains). The aircraft will not drop the nose or a wing in power-off/on stalls as long as I hold max back pressure and keep the ball centered--it just starts to sink in the nose up attitude, up to -1,000 ft/min with the AI reading 45-50 KIAS. In this configuration I still have aileron control and can do 360 deg turns. Previously, I had to use the rudder and do a "falling leaf" type of thing when sinking. I can change between a -1,000 fpm descent and a +500 fpm climb in the same attitude just by using the throttle. I have to wonder what the radar guys think, that is if they're even looking at VFR traffic, when I start a climb to 10,000' at 4,000 fpm, then level off, slow down and then go just about straight down for a few thousand feet, reeeaaal sloooooow? Boyd Super 6 SW FL is finally cooling off beware of police officers providing "security" at your airport--they do not have your best interests at heart ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com>
Subject: Crimping 8awg terminals
Date: Dec 19, 2001
Its simple... Put the wire in a vise with the stripped end sticking out about 2 inches (and with a piece of heat shrink pushed on, but way down the wire so its not in the way). Put the terminal on. Fire up your handy-dandy little propane torch (the little bottle kind works great). Get it hot. Melt in a bunch of solder. let it cool. Push the heat shrink onto the terminal and shrink. Go have some Christmas cookies for a job well done! jim Tampa -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ken Balch Subject: RV-List: Crimping 8awg terminals Well, I'm just about done with my airframe wiring (panel wiring in progress) and I've come to my alternator. The large wire supplied in Van's wiring harness kit is 8awg and comes with an appropriately sized crimp-on insulated ring terminal. My question is: how the heck do I crimp this puppy? My racheting crimper's yellow (10-12awg) dies do fit around the 8awg terminal, but I can't even begin to squeeze it. What have others done here? -- Regards, Ken Balch Ashland, MA RV-8 #81125 (N118KB) finishing wiring groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 19, 2001
From: Steven Eberhart <newtech(at)newtech.com>
Subject: Re: Sanding of Horizontal Stablizer Ribs
On Wed, 19 Dec 2001, Warren Hurd wrote: > > Thanks to all that have replied to my post. I have ordered four new ribs > from Vans; I will mike them and compare to the damage that I have > inflicted on the rest of the ribs. I was certainly way too aggressive on > the first four ribs. Not to excuse my over ambition, but to provide a > rational, I refer to some of the fine print in Fig. 6.2 "file tab until > rib contour is smooth". Well, I must have had thoughts of crafting the > final airfoil shape on the rib itself. Keep on pounding them rivets. Be > careful with that file though. I used a combination of fluting, lightly hammering the flange against a curved block and filing the surface of the flange to get a continuous airfoil shape along the surface of the flanges. Like you, I felt that the top surface of the flanges should be a continuous curve rather than the disjointed approximation that they come out of Van's forming jigs with. Just be careful to do more forming than filing so there is sufficient meat left. Steve Eberhart RV-7A - HS, VS, rudder and one elevator finished, Rear VS spar replaced (don't ask) wing kit inventoried, N14SE reserved One test is worth a thousand expert opinions but a thousand opinions are easier to get. --plagiarized from an unknown author ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-4 Jig
Date: Dec 20, 2001
Bob, I have a steel RV-4 fuselage jig available in Northeast Pennsylvania. Let me know if you're interested. Pat Perry pperryrv(at)hotmail.com >From: "Bob Waalkes" <waalkes(at)netnitco.net> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV-List: RV-4 Jig >Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 09:47:53 -0600 > > >There was a post a few weeks ago for an available steel jig for RV-4 in >the Chicago area. Is it still available? > >Bob Waalkes >RV-4 Fuse >LaPorte, IN > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bmaynard507(at)cs.com
Date: Dec 19, 2001
Subject: Re: Louisiana rv'ers?
There are a few Rver in around Slidell. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John & Rose" <altocu(at)logantele.com>
, "joliveaux" , "John & Linda Heath" , "John & Linda" , "Jessica Heath" , "J Oliveaux" , , "grace" , "GK Pain" , "GK LIL PAIN!" , "Bill Meyer" , "{GK}BlackKnight{=>" , "$GK$PAIN!"
Subject: FW: FW: thoughts from a recruiter
Date: Dec 19, 2001
----- Original Message ----- From: "Nightingale Michael" <NightingaleMichael(at)JohnDeere.com> Chad'" ; ; "'Van Hulle Bob'" ; "'Lees, Jim'" ; "Lundeen Rick T" ; "Huitt Lonnie R" ; "Hess Gary J" ; "Garza Dan P" ; "'Galley Cy'" ; "'Franck Ron'" ; "Fisher Paul" ; "Fey Don" ; "English Dennis J" ; "Coulter Donald" ; "Beert Stephen R" ; "'Vahrenwald John'" ; "'Williams Keith'" ; "'Smith Jim'" <387js(at)netexpress.net>; "Foecking Kirk W" Subject: RV-List: FW: FW: thoughts from a recruiter > > > > > Subject: thoughts from a recruiter > > > > > > > > > > > > > Two things attached. The first is a bumper sticker making the rounds. > > > The > > > > second reminds us of Hanoi Jane's despicable, unforgivable behavior. > > > > > > > > "It is God's job to forgive Bin Laden. It is the Marine's job to > > > arrange > > > > the meeting!" > > > > > > > > KEEP THIS MOVING ACROSS AMERICA - HONORING A TRAITOR > > > > > > > > > > This is for all the kids born in the 70's that do not > > > > > remember this, and didn't have to bear the burden, > > > > > that our fathers, mothers, and older brothers and > > > > > sisters had to bear. > > > > > > > > > > Jane Fonda is being honored as one of the "100 Women > > > > > of the Century." Unfortunately, many have forgotten > > > > > and still countless others have never known how Ms. > > > > > Fonda betrayed not only the idea of our country but > > > > > specific men who served and sacrificed during > > > > > Vietnam. > > > > > > > > > > The first part of this is from an F-4E pilot. The > > > > > pilot's name is Jerry Driscoll, a River Rat. In 1978, > > > > > the former Commandant of the USAF Survival School > > > > > was a POW in Ho Lo Prison - the "Hanoi Hilton." > > > > > Dragged from a stinking cesspit of a cell, cleaned, > > > > > fed, and dressed in clean PJs, he was ordered to > > > > > describe for a visiting American "Peace Activist" > > > > > the "lenient and humane treatment" he'd received. He > > > > > spat at Ms. Fonda, was clubbed, and dragged away. > > > > > > > > > > During the subsequent beating, he fell forward upon > > > > > the camp Commandant's feet, which sent that officer > > > > > berserk. In '78, the AF Col. still suffered from > > > > > double vision (which permanently ended his flying > > > > > days) from the Vietnamese Col.'s frenzied application > > > > > of a wooden baton. From 1963-65, Col. Larry Carrigan > > > > > was in the 47FW/DO (F-4Es). He spent 6 -years in the > > > > > "Hilton"- the first three of which he was "missing in > > > > > action". His wife lived on faith that he was still > > > > > alive. His group, too, got the cleaned/fed/clothed > > > > > routine in preparation for a "peace delegation" visit. > > > > > > > > > > They, however, had time and devised a plan to get word > > > > > to the world that they still survived. Each man > > > > > secreted a tiny piece of paper, with his SSN on it, > > > > > in the palm of his hand. When paraded before Ms. Fonda > > > > > and a cameraman, she walked the line, shaking each man's > > > > > hand and asking little encouraging snippets like: > > > > > "Aren't you sorry you bombed babies?" and "Are you > > > > > grateful for the humane treatment from your benevolent > > > > > captors?" Believing this HAD to be an act, they each > > > > > palmed her their sliver of paper. > > > > > > > > > > She took them all without missing a beat. At the end > > > > > of the line and once the camera stopped rolling, to > > > > > the shocked disbelief of the POWs, she turned to the > > > > > officer in charge and handed him the little pile of > > > > > papers. Three men died from the subsequent beatings. > > > > > Col. Carrigan was almost number four but he survived, > > > > > which is the only reason we know about, her actions > > > > > that day. > > > > > > > > > > I was a civilian economic development advisor in > > > > > Vietnam, and was captured by the North Vietnamese > > > > > communists in South Vietnam in 1968, and held for > > > > > over 5 years. I spent 27 months in solitary > > > > > confinement, one year in a cage in Cambodia, and > > > > > one year in a "black box" in Hanoi. My North > > > > > Vietnamese captors deliberately poisoned and > > > > > murdered a female missionary, a nurse in a > > > > > leprosarium in Ban me Thuot, South Vietnam, whom I > > > > > buried in the jungle near the Cambodian border. > > > > > > > > > > At one time, I was weighing approximately 90 lbs. > > > > > (My normal weight is 170 lbs.) We were Jane Fonda's > > > > > "war criminals." > > > > > When Jane Fonda was in Hanoi, I was asked > > > > > by the camp communist political officer if I would be > > > > > willing to meet with Jane Fonda. I said yes, for > > > > > I would like to tell her about the real treatment > > > > > we POWs received different from the treatment > > > > > purported by the North Vietnamese, and parroted > > > > > by Jane Fonda, as "humane and lenient." Because of > > > > > this, I spent three days on a rocky floor on my > > > > > knees with outstretched arms with a large amount > > > > > of steel placed on my hands, and beaten with a > > > > > bamboo cane till my arms dipped. > > > > > I had the opportunity to meet with Jane Fonda for a > > > > > couple of hours after I was released. I asked her if > > > > > she would be willing to debate me on TV. She did not > > > > > answer me. > > > > > > > > > > This does not exemplify someone who should be honored > > > > > as part of "100 Years of Great Women." Lest we forget > > > > > "100 years of great women" should never include a > > > > > traitor whose hands are covered with the blood of so > > > > > many patriots. There are few things I have strong > > > > > visceral reactions to, but Hanoi Jane's participation > > > > > in blatant treason, is one of them. > > > > > > > > > > Please take the time to forward to as many people as > > > > > you possibly can. It will eventually end up on her > > > > > computer and she needs to know that we will never > > > > > forget. > > > > > > > > <> > > From: Tracie Dahl <Dahl_tracie(at)xpac.com> > To: "'Dana Kane'" , > "'Glen and Michelle Hostens'" > "'Kathy Huybers'" , > "'Kris Schott'" > "'Kristin O'Reilly'" , > "'Mary Leaser'" , "'Mom'" , > "'Rachel Nowlin'" , > "'Tracey Frade'" > Subject: FW: thoughts from a recruiter > Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 09:48:59 -0600 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry" <jerrydd(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Louisiana rv'ers?
Date: Dec 19, 2001
I am from Shreveport and have built a couple of RV's ----- Original Message ----- From: <Bmaynard507(at)cs.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Louisiana rv'ers? > > There are a few Rver in around Slidell. > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 19, 2001
From: Miller Robert <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Forward: info from Thielert... LONG
Following received from Thielert re: TAE125 installation in a DA 40. Robert *************** *************** Dear Ladies and Gentlemen, At the end of a very successful year 2001 we would like to thank you for your interest in our engines. We would also like to use this opportunity to inform you about another highlight in General Aviation: a Diamond DA 40 with TAE 125 diesel engine took off for its successful Maiden Flight on 28. November. Diamond Aircraft resides in Wiener Neustadt/Austria and develops, builds and sells modern composite aircraft. From the middle of 2002 they are going to sell their airframes with TAE 125 as original equipment engine. The Diamond DA40-180 Diamond Star was JAR-23 certified in October 2000. Now the engineers from Thielert and Diamond interlinked this innovative aircraft with the TAE 125 - and they harmonise very well. The new airframe/engine combination has reached all expectations or topped them. The DA 40 TAE flight performance is nearly comparable to the DA 40-180 with conventional AVGAS-engine and, especially in range, speed and economy, the new combination exceeds its competitor. Following figures result from first flight tests: - Rate of climb, sea level at MTOW: 730 ft/min - Rate of climb, 10000 ft: 590 ft/min. - Cruise speed, 12000 ft 60 percent load: 135 ktas - Maximum speed in 12000 ft full load: 152 ktas - Range 132 ktas in 10000 ft standard tanks: 750 nm plus 45 min reserve. - Range 132 ktas in 10000 ft optional tank: 1100 nm plus 45 min reserve. The fuel consumption is approximately 17 l Diesel or Jet A1 per hour at 132 ktas. Equipped with the TAE 125 the DA 40 is still a real four-seat aircraft with 400 kg payload and 1150 kg MTOW. For any further information about the Diamond DA 40 TAE and all products of Diamond Aircraft Industries GmbH or Thielert Aircraft Engines GmbH please visit our websites: http://www.diamond-air.at and http://www.thielert.com During 2002 we will still keep you informed about the progress of development, certification and new products. We wish you a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. Yours sincerely, Thielert Aircraft Engines Torsten Arnold -- * Thielert Aircraft Engines GmbH * Tel: +49 37204 69652 * ** http://www.thielert.com ** mailto:info@thielert.com ** ***** Platanenstrasse 14 ***** D-09350 Lichtenstein ***** ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Sanding of Horizontal Stablizer Ribs (aiee!)
Date: Dec 19, 2001
Steven Eberhart wrote: > I used a combination of fluting, lightly hammering the flange > against a curved block and filing the surface of the flange to > get a continuous airfoil shape along the surface of the flanges. > Like you, I felt that the top surface of the flanges should be a > continuous curve rather than the disjointed approximation that > they come out of Van's forming jigs with. There's really no need to even do that much. Flute the flanges to straighten the rib, and tweak them to make sure they're more or less perpendicular to the web, and move on. The skin will lay flat as long as you do this (and line everything else up.) Trust me on this -- this is exactly the way people who win awards at the shows do it :-) > Just be careful to do more forming than filing so there is sufficient > meat left. Don't do ANY filing, except to deburr the edges or polish out scratches! The "meat" should ALL be there, including the top surface of alclad, to help protect from corrosion. Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs) Portland, OR www.vanshomewing.org ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 20, 2001
From: John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com>
Subject: re: thoughts from a recruiter
I dislike Jane Fonda probably as much as the rest of us who served our country honorably and faithfully, and recognize her actions during the Vietnam war as reprehensible and disgusting. However, to set the record straight, most of this story is NOT true. Quotes on the TruthorFiction web site http://www.truthorfiction.com from two of the men involved, both of whom are well-known and highly-respected former POWs (and were the subject of this story): TruthOrFiction.com located Jerry Driscoll who said that the accounts about him in the email are "...the product of a very vivid imagination" and he requests that people please stop passing it on to others. TruthOrFiction.com also contacted Mike McGrath, President of NAM-POWs, who says the Larry Carrigan events never happened either. He says Carrigan calls the story a "hoax" and does not want to be associated with it. McGrath also says that some versions of the email include an account from a Dave Hoffman and that his story is true. Hoffman says he was tortured (hung by a broken arm) until he agreed to go before Jane Fonda. He was among a small group who witnessed one of her radio broadcasts for Hanoi. Please pass this on to everyone to whom you have sent this story, and if you receive it again, DON'T forward it. There's a lot of garbage out the on the Net that passes for truth. Don't be fooled by it. Use the web site above, http://www.urbanlegends.com/, http://www.ship-of-fools.com, or similar web sites to check out stuff like this. > > > From: "Nightingale Michael" <NightingaleMichael(at)JohnDeere.com> > "'Nightingale Chad'" , > "'rv-list(at)matronics.com'" , > "'Van Hulle Bob'" , > "'Lees, Jim'" , > "Lundeen Rick T" , > "Huitt Lonnie R" , > "Hess Gary J" , > "Garza Dan P" , > "'Galley Cy'" , > "'Franck Ron'" , > "Fisher Paul" , > "Fey Don" , > "English Dennis J" , > "Coulter Donald" , > "Beert Stephen R" , > "'Vahrenwald John'" , > "'Williams Keith'" , > "'Smith Jim'" <387js(at)netexpress.net>, > "Foecking Kirk W" > Subject: RV-List: FW: FW: thoughts from a recruiter > > > > > Subject: thoughts from a recruiter > > > > > > > > > > > > > Two things attached. The first is a bumper sticker making the rounds. > > > The > > > > second reminds us of Hanoi Jane's despicable, unforgivable behavior. > > > > > > > > "It is God's job to forgive Bin Laden. It is the Marine's job to > > > arrange > > > > the meeting!" > > > > > > > > KEEP THIS MOVING ACROSS AMERICA - HONORING A TRAITOR > > > > > > > > > > This is for all the kids born in the 70's that do not > > > > > remember this, and didn't have to bear the burden, > > > > > that our fathers, mothers, and older brothers and > > > > > sisters had to bear. > > > > > > > > > > Jane Fonda is being honored as one of the "100 Women > > > > > of the Century." Unfortunately, many have forgotten > > > > > and still countless others have never known how Ms. > > > > > Fonda betrayed not only the idea of our country but > > > > > specific men who served and sacrificed during > > > > > Vietnam. *remainder snipped for brevity* ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu>
Subject: crimping big wires
Date: Dec 20, 2001
Ken, Use a hammer and suitably sized pin punch and give it a good whack or two until the wire is firmly held. If you're not happy with it, you can apply a little solder and a piece of shrink tubing. Shrink tubing is to protect the wire, now solid with solder, from vibration. On really big wires, like battery wires, you can often use a nicopress tool. Also with solder if needed. Belt and suspenders protection. Don't let the solder wick down into the stranded wire any more than necessary. It makes the wire susceptible to fatigue. Of course, you could go borrow a bigger crimping tool also! Vince Frazier F-1H Rocket... the fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html SNIP Van's wiring harness kit is 8awg and comes with an appropriately sized crimp-on insulated ring terminal. My question is: how the heck do I crimp this puppy? SNIP ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 20, 2001
From: "Scott Kuebler" <skuebler(at)cannondesign.com>
Subject: RV-6 / 6a kit for sale
RV-6 / 6a kit for sale. Empennage: Complete except for fiberglass tips. Includes electric elevator trim kit. All parts are alodined and primed with Marhyde primer. Wings & Phlogiston Spar: Both skeletons assembled. All skins drilled to both wings. ALL parts (assembled or not) are alodined and primed with Deft epoxy primer (Mil-P-23377G). Both kits are the pre-punched versions purchased in 1997 & 1998 by myself. Construction is excellent. Preview plans and Orndorff videos included for both kits. Priced to sell: $5000 If all items were purchased separately the price would be more than $6500 for unassembled kits. The reason for selling is that my wife and I just had our first child and I have an old house to finish rebuilding first. The tools are not for sale; I will be keeping them to guarantee that I will build another RV in the near future! Scott Kuebler Buffalo, NY 716-695-1987 home 716-510-0318 cell skuebler(at)cannondesign.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pacific Mooney" <keith(at)pacificmooney.com>
Subject: Forward: info from Thielert... LONG
Date: Dec 20, 2001
In addition to building an -8 in my garage, I moonlight as an aircraft dealer for Diamond Aircraft, Mooney and the Extra 400. This morning I received notice from Diamond that they flew the Diesel DA-40 and that they intend to keep it exclusively "Non-North-American" until they get significant experience with it (or until AvGAs becomes scarce here). The very interesting thing is they report a 4.5 gph efficiency versus the 9.2 gph they report on their 180 hp IO-360. We won't need extended range tanks anymore. Keith Vasey Seattle The fuel consumption is approximately 17 l Diesel or Jet A1 per hour at 132 ktas. Equipped with the TAE 125 the DA 40 is still a real four-seat aircraft with 400 kg payload and 1150 kg MTOW. For any further information about the Diamond DA 40 TAE and all products of Diamond Aircraft Industries GmbH or Thielert Aircraft Engines GmbH please visit our websites: http://www.diamond-air.at and http://www.thielert.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Forward: info from Thielert... LONG
From: "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)SUPERIORAIRPARTS.COM>
Date: Dec 20, 2001
12/20/2001 01:17:33 PM and for those of you who are RV builders interested in the TAE125 , we are the sole North American distributor and will be carrying the engine when it becomes available in the states late next year. We have a data pack on the engine we can mail to you via snail mail.- Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Brick" <jbrick(at)wolfenet.com>
Subject: KLN94 GPS Wiring
Date: Dec 20, 2001
Does anyone have the wiring schematic for the external connection to the KLN94. I would like to build a docking station for the "take home mode." According to the Pilot's Guide, all you have to do is ground the appropriate pin at the back of the unit...removed from the aircraft, of course. And hook up a power supply. John Brick Tacoma RV-4 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 20, 2001
From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: Crimping tool redux...
Thanks to all for the good suggestions regarding crimping that 8awg terminal on my alternator cable. My first choice (from a cost perspective) would be some sort of hammer/vice crimper, but that's not going to work for me, as the cable is already routed from the alternator breaker forward through the firewall to the alternator itself. I really don't want to pull the wire back through the firewall, clip my wiring bundle ties, unscrew my switch console and undo the wire at the breaker. My second choice (cost-wise) is an actual crimping tool that'll allow me to crimp the terminal on the wire in place. Aircraft Spruce has such a crimper, but it's $320 (part# 601075)!!! Hmm... No, thanks. What I'd like to do is borrow one. None of my local EAA chapters are builder oriented and do not have tool libraries available. Can anyone out there lend me one of these big crimpers? I'll pay the shipping, of course, and have it back to immediately. I've only got one of these terminals to crimp... Thanks in advance! -- Regards, Ken Balch Ashland, MA RV-8 #81125 (N118KB) installing engine stuff groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fletcher Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Crimping tool redux...
Date: Dec 20, 2001
Ken, Call around to your electrical contractor places or suppliers. I found mine at an electrical supplier that loaned out the big crimper to electrical contractors around town. Used it for a couple of days and returned it. No charge. I bought a fat wire cutter from them. The crimper had an adjustment for wire size. Good luck. Pat Hatch RV-4 Flying RV-6 Finish Kit Vero Beach, FL ----- Original Message ----- From: Ken Balch Subject: RV-List: Crimping tool redux... Thanks to all for the good suggestions regarding crimping that 8awg terminal on my alternator cable. My first choice (from a cost perspective) would be some sort of hammer/vice crimper, but that's not going to work for me, as the cable is already routed from the alternator breaker forward through the firewall to the alternator itself. I really don't want to pull the wire back through the firewall, clip my wiring bundle ties, unscrew my switch console and undo the wire at the breaker. My second choice (cost-wise) is an actual crimping tool that'll allow me to crimp the terminal on the wire in place. Aircraft Spruce has such a crimper, but it's $320 (part# 601075)!!! Hmm... No, thanks. What I'd like to do is borrow one. None of my local EAA chapters are builder oriented and do not have tool libraries available. Can anyone out there lend me one of these big crimpers? I'll pay the shipping, of course, and have it back to immediately. I've only got one of these terminals to crimp... Thanks in advance! -- Regards, Ken Balch Ashland, MA RV-8 #81125 (N118KB) installing engine stuff groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 20, 2001
From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: Vacuum system questions
Guys, I've already got a vacuum pump (supplied by Bart with my engine) - I think it's a Tempest dry pump. What I'd like are some recommendations on which filter & regulator to buy, as well as any tips on hoses. Nylo-seal? Poly-flow? Help... Thanks! -- Regards, Ken Balch Ashland, MA RV-8 #81125 (N118KB) installing engine stuff groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: Radio Stack support structure - rv6 slider
Date: Dec 20, 2001
I am installing three units in my radio stack of which the one in the middle will penetrate the sub panel. It seems very simple to brace the longer unit to the sub panel and from this, add support to the units above and below. Are there any forces that I have to be especially careful of in this area? The unit in the middle (Garmin GNS-430) weighs in just over 6 lbs, the audio panel above is about 2 lbs, and the transponder below is nearly 4 lbs. Thanks in advance. Tom Barnes -6 electronics ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Vacuum system questions
From: pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com
Date: Dec 20, 2001
12/20/2001 04:10:23 PM Hi Ken, I don't recall which regulator I purchased, but I have an Airborne filter. There's not much to get excited about. It accepts two hoses and had a convenient mounting system. As far as hoses are concerned, I bought some nice silicone stuff from Sacramento Sky Ranch. It has a light blue exterior, a red interior and a reinforcing braid between the two layers. As I recall it was expensive, but it's lost in the noise of all the other goodies under the cowl. Good luck, Dean |--------+----------------------------------> | | Ken Balch | | | | | | Sent by: | | | owner-rv-list-server@mat| | | ronics.com | | | | | | | | | 12/20/01 03:18 PM | | | Please respond to | | | rv-list | | | | |--------+----------------------------------> | | | To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com" | | cc: | | bcc: | | Subject: RV-List: Vacuum system questions | Guys, I've already got a vacuum pump (supplied by Bart with my engine) - I think it's a Tempest dry pump. What I'd like are some recommendations on which filter & regulator to buy, as well as any tips on hoses. Nylo-seal? Poly-flow? Help... Thanks! -- Regards, Ken Balch Ashland, MA RV-8 #81125 (N118KB) installing engine stuff groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/ **** This is intended for the addressee only and may contain confidential business information. It may not be copied without our permission. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender as soon as possible and delete the material from any computer.**** ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fletcher Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Vacuum system questions
Date: Dec 20, 2001
Ken, Look at the RAPCO kit at Spruce and others. You can get it without the pump, it will have everything you need for the entire vacuum system, regulator, fittings, hoses, etc. Saves a lot of time. Pat Hatch RV-4 Flying RV-6 Finish Kit Vero Beach, FL ----- Original Message ----- From: Ken Balch Subject: RV-List: Vacuum system questions Guys, I've already got a vacuum pump (supplied by Bart with my engine) - I think it's a Tempest dry pump. What I'd like are some recommendations on which filter & regulator to buy, as well as any tips on hoses. Nylo-seal? Poly-flow? Help... Thanks! -- Regards, Ken Balch Ashland, MA RV-8 #81125 (N118KB) installing engine stuff groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 20, 2001
From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Vacuum system questions
Pat, Thanks for the info. Spruce just told me that they won't sell the kit without the pump or the suction gauge, as it comes from Rapco in a nice, sealed box. They want me to order the other parts, piece by piece. I haven't even checked on how much extra that'll cost. Will one of the other vendors (Wick's, Chief, etc.) sell the kit without those two items, to your knowledge? Regards, Ken Fletcher Hatch wrote: > > Ken, > > Look at the RAPCO kit at Spruce and others. You can get it without the p> ump, it will have everything you need for the entire vacuum system, regul> ator, fittings, hoses, etc. Saves a lot of time. > > Pat Hatch > RV-4 Flying > RV-6 Finish Kit > Vero Beach, FL ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 20, 2001
From: Miller Robert <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Help Clarify FAR 91.319
Could someone help clarify the meaning of FAR 91.319 which states: "Unless otherwise specifically authorized, no person may operate an aircraft that has an experimental certificate over a densely populated area or along a congested airway" How is everyone handling what seems to be a real limitation for cross country flight? Here in the northeast, pretty hard to do cross country while avoiding "congested areas". Any limitation regarding: IFR flight? Class B or Class C airports? Flight instruction ...receive or give...in your RV? Or, is it that the DAR or other FAA authority will lift this limitation on meeting some requirement? What limitations will I, in fact, face in my homebuilt? Thanks. Robert ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 20, 2001
Subject: Re: Help Clarify FAR 91.319
In a message dated 12/20/01 6:13:24 PM Eastern Standard Time, rmiller3(at)earthlink.net writes: << Could someone help clarify the meaning of FAR 91.319 which states: "Unless otherwise specifically authorized, no person may operate an aircraft that has an experimental certificate over a densely populated area or along a congested airway" How is everyone handling what seems to be a real limitation for cross country flight? Here in the northeast, pretty hard to do cross country while avoiding "congested areas". Any limitation regarding: IFR flight? Class B or Class C airports? Flight instruction ...receive or give...in your RV? Or, is it that the DAR or other FAA authority will lift this limitation on meeting some requirement? What limitations will I, in fact, face in my homebuilt? Thanks. Robert >> That language has been removed from the current set of restrictions used in Experimental Operating Limitations. There is a bunch in the archives on this subject. Kyle Boatright 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider Kennesaw, GA http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 20, 2001
Subject: Re: Crimping tool redux...
Ken: Just a thought but check for a welding supply shop in your area. They will undoubtedly have a large crimper and maybe you can borrow or rent it, probably with a large deposit but what the heck. Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, finish kit stuff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Paulbaird(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 20, 2001
Subject: Re: Help Clarify FAR 91.319
There is also an article in the January issue of Kitplanes that explains this. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 20, 2001
Subject: [ Paul Imhof ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Paul Imhof Subject: Miss America http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Paul_Imhof@Dell.com.12.20.2001/index.html -------------------------------------------- o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. o Main Photo Share Index: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare -------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
Subject: Re: Vacuum system questions
Date: Dec 20, 2001
Hi Pat; The difference in price on the Rapco kit is about $35.00 more than buying the pieces separately minus the pump. In other words buying the kit will give you a spare pump for 35.00. Just went through this with Spruce. Eustace ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ken Balch" <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Vacuum system questions > > Pat, > > Thanks for the info. Spruce just told me that they won't sell the kit without > the pump or the suction gauge, as it comes from Rapco in a nice, sealed box. > They want me to order the other parts, piece by piece. I haven't even checked > on how much extra that'll cost. Will one of the other vendors (Wick's, Chief, > etc.) sell the kit without those two items, to your knowledge? > > Regards, > Ken > > Fletcher Hatch wrote: > > > > > Ken, > > > > Look at the RAPCO kit at Spruce and others. You can get it without the p> > ump, it will have everything you need for the entire vacuum system, regul> > ator, fittings, hoses, etc. Saves a lot of time. > > > > Pat Hatch > > RV-4 Flying > > RV-6 Finish Kit > > Vero Beach, FL > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 20, 2001
From: David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Vacuum system questions
Listers: I have a complete Rapco kit that I will not need for my RV-4. Going all electric.... It has the RA215CC pump, is a complete kit, unopened except to inspect and inventory. I've had it for about 8 months and will let it go for $575. I'll ship it for $8.00 anywhere in USA. That's $66.00 cheaper than ACS! Contact me off list please. Dave Aronson RV4 N504RV Eustace Bowhay wrote: > > Hi Pat; > > The difference in price on the Rapco kit is about $35.00 more than buying > the pieces separately minus the pump. In other words buying the kit will > give you a spare pump for 35.00. Just went through this with Spruce. > > Eustace > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Ken Balch" <kbalch1(at)mediaone.net> > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: Vacuum system questions > > > > > Pat, > > > > Thanks for the info. Spruce just told me that they won't sell the kit > without > > the pump or the suction gauge, as it comes from Rapco in a nice, sealed > box. > > They want me to order the other parts, piece by piece. I haven't even > checked > > on how much extra that'll cost. Will one of the other vendors (Wick's, > Chief, > > etc.) sell the kit without those two items, to your knowledge? > > > > Regards, > > Ken > > > > Fletcher Hatch wrote: > > > > > > > > Ken, > > > > > > Look at the RAPCO kit at Spruce and others. You can get it without the > p> > > ump, it will have everything you need for the entire vacuum system, > regul> > > ator, fittings, hoses, etc. Saves a lot of time. > > > > > > Pat Hatch > > > RV-4 Flying > > > RV-6 Finish Kit > > > Vero Beach, FL > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rob W M Shipley" <glassman(at)tns.net>
Subject: O 290 TLC
Date: Dec 20, 2001
Re Storing a Lycoming. I've just bought an O 290 from a fellow member of our local chapter. It has just been removed from his plane 65 hours after a rebuild. I won't be ready for this on my RV9 project for at least 18 months, (I hope). What should I do to this engine to ensure it stays in good order? What should I check prior to installing it? Your advice welcomed. Rob RV9A wings. N919RV resvd. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fletcher Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Crimping tool redux...
Date: Dec 20, 2001
Ken, Call around to your electrical contractor places or suppliers. I found mine at an electrical supplier that loaned out the big crimper to electrical contractors around town. Used it for a couple of days and returned it. No charge. I bought a fat wire cutter from them. The crimper had an adjustment for wire size. Good luck. Pat Hatch RV-4 Flying RV-6 Finish Kit Vero Beach, FL ----- Original Message ----- From: Ken Balch Subject: RV-List: Crimping tool redux... Thanks to all for the good suggestions regarding crimping that 8awg terminal on my alternator cable. My first choice (from a cost perspective) would be some sort of hammer/vice crimper, but that's not going to work for me, as the cable is already routed from the alternator breaker forward through the firewall to the alternator itself. I really don't want to pull the wire back through the firewall, clip my wiring bundle ties, unscrew my switch console and undo the wire at the breaker. My second choice (cost-wise) is an actual crimping tool that'll allow me to crimp the terminal on the wire in place. Aircraft Spruce has such a crimper, but it's $320 (part# 601075)!!! Hmm... No, thanks. What I'd like to do is borrow one. None of my local EAA chapters are builder oriented and do not have tool libraries available. Can anyone out there lend me one of these big crimpers? I'll pay the shipping, of course, and have it back to immediately. I've only got one of these terminals to crimp... Thanks in advance! -- Regards, Ken Balch Ashland, MA RV-8 #81125 (N118KB) installing engine stuff groups.yahoo.com/group/BostonRVBuilders/files/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JusCash(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 21, 2001
Subject: Re: Radio Stack support structure - rv6 slider
Hi Tom, I have a tip-up canopy with a full IFR stack. After the radio stack was installed, but before the top skin was riveted on, I thought to myself how in the world am I going to work on all these wires lying on my back under the panel. I did the following to make the entire radio stack removable from the rear of the instrument panel. The sub panel is opened up to the dimensions of the stack. All of the radio racks are mounted to 3/4 aluminum angle on their front edges. The 3/4 angle is then mounted to the rear of the instrument panel with four 8/32 CS screws. The bottom of the rack assy. is even with the bottom flange of the sub panel. The bottom flange of the sub panel is replaced with 3/4 aluminum angle that extends about 3" on either side of the opening for the stack. Two holes are drilled on either side and nut plates installed on the sub panel and the front face angles. All wiring have substantial service loops to allow the stack to drop down. To remove the radio stack the four instrument panel screws are removed then the four sub panel screws. The rack can then be slid aft and down for removal. I hope that this method of mounting the radio stack is helpfull to you. Cash Copeland RV6 Oakland, Ca > > I am installing three units in my radio stack of which the one in the > middle will penetrate the sub panel. It seems very simple to brace the > longer unit to the sub panel and from this, add support to the units > above and below. Are there any forces that I have to be especially > careful of in this area? The unit in the middle (Garmin GNS-430) weighs > in just over 6 lbs, the audio panel above is about 2 lbs, and the > transponder below is nearly 4 lbs. > > Thanks in advance. > Tom Barnes -6 electronics > Cash Copeland QB #60075 RV6 N46FC (Reserved) Oakland, Ca ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris & Susie" <rv6(at)ssc.net.au>
Subject: Fw: A little bit of you vast knowledge please
Date: Dec 21, 2001
CAN SOMEONE HELP MY FRIEND WITH THIS QUESTION? > Hi Chris and Susie, > > How are you both, survived the onslaught of sticky fingers and roving eyes, > I hope that no one banged the main spar with a hammer!!! > > A question for you Chris.....but first the background. > > I have a potential buyer for my RV8 tail kit. He wishes to build an RV7 and > would like to use the RV8 tail kit and buy the necessary parts to adapt it > for the RV7 > He has emailed Vans and was advised that the different parts required were: > > HS-601PP > HS-610 > HS-614 > > My question is this....these parts, I believe, belong to the RV6, because my > equivalents are HS-801PP, HS-810 and HS814. > > I would have expected the skin to be different (because of the wider angle > on a 2 seater fuselarge) I would also expect that the RV8 skien could be > trimmed to fit the requirements of the RV7. I would also expect that he > would need to buy a HS-710 and an HS714 to replace the 810 and 814 from my > kit. > > What are your thoughts?? I know that you are interested in the RV7. > > By the way, thoroughly enjoyed your item about your trip to the US. No > travelling for me in the near future!!! > > I have probably confused the heck out of you by my dribblings above. My > phone number is 5428 2188, or email if you like. > > Thanks for your help > > Have a very merry xmas and a safe and happy near year. I look forward to > seeing you RV6 fly in 2002. > > Regards > David > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 21, 2001
From: "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com>
Subject: ICOM A200 built in intercom
Hi - I saw lots of recommendations in the archives for the ICOM A200. I noticed that it has a built-in intercom system. Any comment on how it works? Still worthwhile to install a separate system? I've already purchased the flightcom intercom from Van's but would be delighted to sell or return it if it isn't needed. How does the radio work as an intercom? Thanks, Parker Thomas F. Parker Thomas PO Box 190894 San Francisco, CA 94119 me(at)parkerthomas.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Planejoel(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 21, 2001
Subject: RV Instructing
Friend of mine has a small instructing/rental business. Does anyone know what the legalities are for instructing in an RV or renting one out. Joe RV6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com>
Subject: O 290 TLC
Date: Dec 21, 2001
Go to Builders Bookstore and buy the Bengalis book "firewall Forward". It has an entire chapter devoted to storing the engine. Talks about draining oil, putting in preservation oil, using dessicant spark plugs, etc, etc. Besides the information in this chapter, it is good reading for other parts of your engine/firewall forward project. Its a little bit of an old book, but the fact that it is still very accurate simply goes to show that the Lynosore you are putting in your plane (and mine) has not changed, and the things you need to do are well thought out and well documented. Buy the book. jim Tampa 6a... getting ready for paint shop. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rob W M Shipley Subject: RV-List: O 290 TLC Re Storing a Lycoming. I've just bought an O 290 from a fellow member of our local chapter. It has just been removed from his plane 65 hours after a rebuild. I won't be ready for this on my RV9 project for at least 18 months, (I hope). What should I do to this engine to ensure it stays in good order? What should I check prior to installing it? Your advice welcomed. Rob RV9A wings. N919RV resvd. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 21, 2001
Subject: Re: ICOM A200 built in intercom
From: <racker(at)rmci.net>
Not flying yet, but have played with my Icom A-200 a bit. Built-in intercom works fine, but is not voice activated (meaning you need to manually switch between comm and intercomm functions). I wanted VOX, and therefore installed a Flightcom 403 intercom. Rob Acker (RV-6, final wiring and FWF plumbing) > > I saw lots of recommendations in the archives for the ICOM A200. I > noticed that it has a built-in intercom system. Any comment on how it > works? Still worthwhile to install a separate system? I've already > purchased the flightcom intercom from Van's but would be delighted to > sell or return it if it isn't needed. How does the radio work as an > intercom? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fletcher Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Vacuum system questions
Date: Dec 21, 2001
Ken, Call Rapco (262) 367-2292 or www.rapco-rfs.com, I know they have the kit without the pump, or check some of the other suppliers. I bought mine with the pump but I had originally thought about another vacuum pump. If you price everything out, you just about get the pump for free. So even if you buy the pump you might keep it as a spare or sell it on the list. Regards, Pat Hatch RV-4 Flying RV-6 Finish Kit Vero Beach, FL ----- Original Message ----- From: Ken Balch Subject: Re: RV-List: Vacuum system questions Pat, Thanks for the info. Spruce just told me that they won't sell the kit without the pump or the suction gauge, as it comes from Rapco in a nice, sealed box. They want me to order the other parts, piece by piece. I haven't even checked on how much extra that'll cost. Will one of the other vendors (Wick's, Chief, etc.) sell the kit without those two items, to your knowledge? Regards, Ken Fletcher Hatch wrote: > > Ken, > > Look at the RAPCO kit at Spruce and others. You can get it without the p > ump, it will have everything you need for the entire vacuum system, regul > ator, fittings, hoses, etc. Saves a lot of time. > > Pat Hatch > RV-4 Flying > RV-6 Finish Kit > Vero Beach, FL ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 21, 2001
From: Miller Robert <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Help Clarify FAR 91.319
Found it.... good, fairly detailed, article on all this in Sport Aviation, December 2001 issue, page 60. Thanks again to all who responded. Robert Gary Zilik wrote: > > I believe the correct magazine for the article would be Sport Aviation. > > Gary > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: RV Instructing
Date: Dec 21, 2001
Contact the EAA as they have a waiver to make transitition training legal. It cannot be to upgrade ratings, or primary training. I understand the required paper work is free. e-mail Earl Lawrence elawrence(at)eaa.org or call 1-888-322-4636 toll free. Plane must be maintained like a commercial instruction.i.e... 100 hour Conditional inspections Cy Galley Editor, EAA Safety Programs cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org ----- Original Message ----- From: <Planejoel(at)aol.com> Subject: RV-List: RV Instructing Friend of mine has a small instructing/rental business. Does anyone know what the legalities are for instructing in an RV or renting one out. Joe RV6A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 21, 2001
From: Scot Stambaugh <sstambaugh(at)qualcomm.com>
Subject: Re: [ Paul Imhof ] : New Email List Photo Share
Available! That is a fabulous paint job and a gorgeous plane!!! scot > > > >A new Email List Photo Share is available: > > Poster: Paul Imhof > > RV-List,RV3-List,RV4-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV9-List > > Subject: Miss America > > >http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Paul_Imhof@Dell.com.12.20.2001/index.html > > > -------------------------------------------- > > o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE > > Share your files and photos with other List members simply by > emailing the files to: > > pictures(at)matronics.com > > Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text > Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. > > o Main Photo Share Index: > > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > > -------------------------------------------- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Knicholas2(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 21, 2001
Subject: FINDING ENGINE A.D.'S
I have found an engine for a fair price that I am considering buying for my RV9. Where can I find a list of any AD's that may be required for that engine. It would be good to know before I fork over the $$$. Kim Nicholas RV9 finishing fuse Seattle ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 21, 2001
Subject: Re: Consideration for diesel fuel
Todd: The numbers according to my Pratt & Whitney reference are gasoline, 5.87 lb/U.S. gal. and Jet A, 6.74 lb/U.S. gal. Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, finish kit stuff ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 21, 2001
Subject: Re: FINDING ENGINE A.D.'S
From: Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com>
Find a friend or AI that will print them out for you. I have a CD but it is old like all my books. If you want I will try but there may be new ones. Don Jordan - N6DJ - 6A Arlington, Tx ****************************** > > I have found an engine for a fair price that I am considering buying > for my > RV9. Where can I find a list of any AD's that may be required for > that > engine. It would be good to know before I fork over the $$$. > > Kim Nicholas > RV9 finishing fuse > Seattle > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 21, 2001
Subject: Re: O 290 TLC
From: Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com>
Rob: This is what I did. I got it from Eutise . I bought it 18 months ago & I think nothing had been done to it for 8 years. I built a stand from 2 bys , plugged everything, removed the quick drain, grounded the mags, removed the dip stick & plugged. Then put 12 quarts of 30 weight auto oil which has gone to my cars now. Left the upper plugs in & stored upside down. This puts the cam & hopefully the crank under oil. I put disicater plugs in the lower holes. What I did not do was put oil in the cylinders. I would do this & clean up the mess after I rotated the engine. I ended up with small leakage any way. I built a damn from floor absorbent around it. I had bought what I thought was a good mid-time engine, which turned out to have a prop strike. I have disassembled it. IT had a cracked crankshaft. The seller got me a good crank, but I still have an OH to go through. All the lower end was very good as for as corrosion, but the cylinders & rings were rusty. I boro scooped the cylinders when I got it & they looked good to me. I guess what I am trying to say is watch the cylinders & don't worry about the lower end. Don Jordan - N6DJ - 6A Arlington, Tx ****************************** writes: > > Re Storing a Lycoming. > > I've just bought an O 290 from a fellow member of our local chapter. > It > has just been removed from his plane 65 hours after a rebuild. I > won't > be ready for this on my RV9 project for at least 18 months, (I > hope). > What should I do to this engine to ensure it stays in good order? > What > should I check prior to installing it? > Your advice welcomed. > Rob > RV9A wings. > N919RV resvd. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RION BOURGEOIS" <rion(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: temporary oil heater
Date: Dec 21, 2001
Does anyone know of a source for an oil/case heater that can be inserted down the oil dipstick tube before flight and then removed after the oil and case are warm and before flight? Thanx, Rion ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 21, 2001
From: Earl Fortner <efortner(at)vnet.net>
Subject: Re: FINDING ENGINE A.D.'S
It would be nice if a log came with the engine so you would know which AD's if any have been done. Check with an IA at the FBO and he should be able to come up with the AD's Knicholas2(at)aol.com wrote: > > I have found an engine for a fair price that I am considering buying for my > RV9. Where can I find a list of any AD's that may be required for that > engine. It would be good to know before I fork over the $$$. > > Kim Nicholas > RV9 finishing fuse > Seattle > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: FINDING ENGINE A.D.'S
Date: Dec 21, 2001
Give me the full engine specs with carb and mag brands and I'll send you a list Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club Newsletter Editor & EAA TC www.bellanca-championclub.com ----- Original Message ----- From: <Knicholas2(at)aol.com> Subject: RV-List: FINDING ENGINE A.D.'S I have found an engine for a fair price that I am considering buying for my RV9. Where can I find a list of any AD's that may be required for that engine. It would be good to know before I fork over the $$$. Kim Nicholas RV9 finishing fuse Seattle ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com>
Subject: Re: FINDING ENGINE A.D.'S
Date: Dec 21, 2001
> I have found an engine for a fair price that I am considering buying for my > RV9. Where can I find a list of any AD's that may be required for that > engine. It would be good to know before I fork over the $$$. > Try this page. I think it's where I went the other day to find what I needed to know about mine. You are an AOPA member, aren't you? :-) http://www.aopa.org/members/rg_ad.html Jim Sears in KY RV-6A N198JS ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Consideration for diesel fuel
Date: Dec 21, 2001
I purchased the RV-7 empennage >kit and have it about done, wing kit is due in the next couple of days, so >it's probably high time I started logging this stuff and getting serious. >Am >I getting in trouble by not having started a log? You have plenty of time to get a log underway, so don't sweat it too much. Keep a camera in the shop so you can take pics at various points along the way. A simple notebook log like Larry Pardue mentioned is just fine for all purposes, including proof of 51% build for the repairman's certificate. I chose to build a webpage, which served as my builder's log. I gave the URL to the FAA inspector a few weeks ahead of the actual inspection for him to view. It's a good idea to make a visit to the local FSDO early on, to meet the folks there and let them know you're building. I was on a first name basis with the inspector months before he ever came to view my airplane. Made for a very quick and painless inspection. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD 271 hrs. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Dec 21, 2001
Subject: Re: Help Clarify FAR 91.319
> Could someone help clarify the meaning of FAR 91.319 which states: > "Unless otherwise specifically authorized, no person may operate an > aircraft that has an experimental certificate over a densely populated > area or along a congested airway" FAA overflight authorization for homebuilts is now almost automatic. The policy is contained in HBGA 99-13, located at http://www.faa.gov/avr/afs/hbga/hbgal.htm . I received authorization in my operating limitations. You can see the FAA's default operating limitations in FAA Order 8130-2D (30 Sep 99) which contains amateur built certification requirements/procedures/limitations in chapter 4, section 7. Tim ****** Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA) RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99 http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a ****** ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 21, 2001
From: Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Hanging an engine?!?!!!!!
When I lay the 6a dyno engine mount on top of the engine (which is standing on its prop flange) and I lay the Lord mounts in the cups, the holes don't line up. Is this common and is this why it takes hours to get the bolts in? Dan DeNeal trying to put some weight on the nose!!! rv6a Send your FREE holiday greetings online! http://greetings.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com>
Subject: Re: Hanging an engine?!?!!!!!
Date: Dec 21, 2001
Hi Dan, Glad to read you have your engine. Do you have the #1 or #2 mount and what engine do you have (D1A, E2D, etc)? I mounted my engine with the engine mount bolted to the fuselage and I thought for several hours that it wasn't going to fit, but it finally did. Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok -6 p.s. I have the Garmin 295 now. We'll have to compare notes on impressions so far. ----- Original Message ----- From: Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com> Subject: RV-List: Hanging an engine?!?!!!!! > > When I lay the 6a dyno engine mount on top of the > engine (which is standing on its prop flange) and I > lay the Lord mounts in the cups, the holes don't line > up. Is this common and is this why it takes hours to > get the bolts in? > > Dan DeNeal > trying to put some weight on the nose!!! > rv6a > > Send your FREE holiday greetings online! > http://greetings.yahoo.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com>
Subject: Re: Crimping tool redux...
Date: Dec 21, 2001
Ken, Where are you located? I have a crimper I would loan you for free as long as you would pay shipping to and fro. I live in Redmond, Oregon. Tim Bryan RV-6 slider ( Finishing kit) ----- Original Message ----- From: <HCRV6(at)aol.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Crimping tool redux... > > Ken: Just a thought but check for a welding supply shop in your area. > They will undoubtedly have a large crimper and maybe you can borrow or rent > it, probably with a large deposit but what the heck. > > Harry Crosby > Pleasanton, California > RV-6, finish kit stuff > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Hanging an engine?!?!!!!!
Date: Dec 21, 2001
When I lay the 6a dyno engine mount on top of the engine (which is standing on its prop flange) and I lay the Lord mounts in the cups, the holes don't line up. Is this common and is this why it takes hours to get the bolts in? ............................................................................ ............................................................................ ......................................... Dan, I just went throught this about two months ago. I did the same thing as you and was worried, Don't be. Once you start pulling the engine tight to the mount, the holes will line up. You'll swear you have the wrong mount, but once you start hanging the engine, everything will come together. We (me and my building parter) spent about 45 minutes hangine the engine, it wasn't that bad. It went even faster the second time (forgot the darned oil sender elbow near the upper right mount, even after I was forwarned)!!! If you have some tapered punches, they'll help you get the biscuits lined up quicker. There is NO WAY to put all 4 bolts in at once, the physics of the mount don't allow for it. Remember, things are "cone" shaped so until the engine is almost in it's perfect spot, the bolts can be a bear. We used a cherry picker so we could move the engine up and down, wiggle, push, shove, cuss, push and shove, swear some more, and all of a sudden things just fell together! Good luck, it really looks and feels great to have that part done! Wait until you start on the cowling, you thought the canopy was a bear! Cheers, Stein Bruch RV6, Minneapolis, Finished Baffling and 85% cowl. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ghgrigson123(at)cs.com
Date: Dec 22, 2001
Subject: Re: RV-6/6A Tail Kit For Sale
Just wanted to piggy back on this one. If you know somebody sitting on the fence or looking for a cheap way to start an RV-6/6A project buy this tail kit plus my wing kit as a Christmas present. Since I live in Hawaii, I am prepared to unload the wing kit for only $3000 including the shipping. How's that for a deal? Better jump on this!! Email me directly: ghgrigson123(at)cs.com for info about this RV6/6A wing kit. Greg Grigson Honolulu 808-396-7771 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Dec 22, 2001
Subject: Re: Help Clarify FAR 91.319
> You can see the FAA's default operating > limitations in FAA Order 8130-2D (30 Sep 99) which contains amateur > built certification requirements/procedures/limitations in chapter 4, > section 7. This is available at http://av-info.faa.gov/dst/reference.htm ****** Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA) RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99 http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a ****** ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ghgrigson123(at)cs.com
Date: Dec 22, 2001
Subject: Fuel System MOD
I'm building a RV 6A QB. Contemplating installing the fuel selector valve handle on left cockpit sidewall with valve body in wing root fairing area (is there space??). Also would like to put boost pump low on the engine side of firewall (I've seen this on someone's website). Disadvantages I see so far: 1. Valve position not as clearly visible as Van's setup 2. Copilot will have great difficulty operating this valve Why the fuss?? I would prefer to eliminate all those fuel fittings in the cockpit. Is this a bad idea? Have I missed the big picture in the safety/reliability scheme of things? Greg Grigson Honolulu; Sunny 87 deg. F ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 22, 2001
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel System MOD
--- Ghgrigson123(at)cs.com wrote: > > I'm building a RV 6A QB. Contemplating installing the fuel > selector valve > handle on left cockpit sidewall with valve body in wing root fairing > area > (is there space??). Also would like to put boost pump low on the > engine side > of firewall (I've seen this on someone's website). > Disadvantages I see so far: > 1. Valve position not as clearly visible as Van's setup > 2. Copilot will have great difficulty operating this valve > Why the fuss?? I would prefer to eliminate all those fuel fittings > in the > cockpit. > Is this a bad idea? Have I missed the big picture in the > safety/reliability scheme of things? > > Greg Grigson > Honolulu; Sunny 87 deg. F > > I do not like the idea of installing any engine control where both pilots cannot reach it. (I consider the fuel valve an engine control as in the off position, the engine quits.) The boost pump should be in a cool area like the cockpit. It is sucking fuel from the tank and the extra heat can help cause vapor lock. ==== Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 990.5+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com Send your FREE holiday greetings online! http://greetings.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Planejoel(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 22, 2001
Subject: Re: Hanging an engine?!?!!!!!
If you insert the bolts into the lord mounts and project an imaginary line forward, the bolts would appear to merge and join somewhere past midway of the engine. Sooo when the bolts are inserted they don't just go straight in. I think I started them with the mount slightly away from the engine. After hours of $#@ &* % I finally succeeded only to find I had installed the washers improperly. much humility earned. However at a later date when the engine sagged I needed to install a couple washers on the bottom side to raise the front, an airport mechanic did it in about a half hour with the engine on. Actually I went and got my wife with the little fingers and ....... Joe RV6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Burt Carlisle" <burtcarlisle(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Operating limitations, Exp. A/C
Date: Dec 22, 2001
The latest issue of Sport Aviation (Dec 2001) has an excellent article covering the subject on page 60 Burt ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Burt Carlisle" <burtcarlisle(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Op limitaions, exp A/C
Date: Dec 22, 2001
According to the article in Dec 2001 Sport Aviation on page 66, an exemption may be obtained allowing rental for transition training and flight reviews. Burt ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Knicholas2(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 22, 2001
Subject: Need relay education
Forgive me if this is already in the archives but I could not find what I need. Can someone offer me a reference on how to wire, used, and determine use for relays? Specifically I need to learn which relay to use and how to wire it for remote fuel pump and flap switches (on the stick). (I tried to ask Bob Nickols but he is too smart for me and I did not understand his answer!) Kim Nicholas RV9 Seattle ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
Subject: Plenum
Date: Dec 22, 2001
Do any of you have drawings or pictures of a tidy plenum installation for a 0360 Hartzell combination for the RV6A. Would appreciate some help on this. Eustace Bowhay - Blind Bay, B.C. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
Subject: Re: temporary oil heater
Date: Dec 22, 2001
Hi Rion: My thoughts are, putting a heating element directly into the oil would damage the oil as it would be operating at a temp that would burn the oil. All I use is a in-car heater inserted from the rear into the scoop on the bottom of the cowling and plug the air intakes with some foam rubber. At temperatures in the 10-35F thirty minutes is adequate. On the 6A which has the brace on the scoop I plan to make up a suitable divided extension or just set the heater on a stand of the correct height at the back of the scoop. This of course is done with the aircraft in a hangar were there is no wind. Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. ----- Original Message ----- From: "RION BOURGEOIS" <rion(at)worldnet.att.net> Subject: RV-List: temporary oil heater > > Does anyone know of a source for an oil/case heater that can be inserted > down the oil dipstick tube before flight and then removed after the oil and > case are warm and before flight? Thanx, Rion > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "J. Rion Bourgeois" <rion(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Need relay education
Date: Dec 22, 2001
Kim: Van's sells a relay for the flap motor. Rion ----- Original Message ----- From: <Knicholas2(at)aol.com> Subject: RV-List: Need relay education > > Forgive me if this is already in the archives but I could not find what I > need. Can someone offer me a reference on how to wire, used, and determine > use for relays? Specifically I need to learn which relay to use and how to > wire it for remote fuel pump and flap switches (on the stick). > > (I tried to ask Bob Nickols but he is too smart for me and I did not > understand his answer!) > > Kim Nicholas > RV9 > Seattle > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "J. Rion Bourgeois" <rion(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: temporary oil heater
Date: Dec 22, 2001
Thanks Eustace. What type of "in-car heater" are you using? Rion ----- Original Message ----- From: Eustace Bowhay <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: temporary oil heater > > Hi Rion: > > My thoughts are, putting a heating element directly into the oil would > damage the oil as it would be operating at a temp that would burn the oil. > > All I use is a in-car heater inserted from the rear into the scoop on the > bottom of the cowling and plug the air intakes with some foam rubber. At > temperatures in the 10-35F thirty minutes is adequate. On the 6A which has > the brace on the scoop I plan to make up a suitable divided extension or > just set the heater on a stand of the correct height at the back of the > scoop. > This of course is done with the aircraft in a hangar were there is no wind. > > Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "RION BOURGEOIS" <rion(at)worldnet.att.net> > To: "rv-list" > Subject: RV-List: temporary oil heater > > > > > > Does anyone know of a source for an oil/case heater that can be inserted > > down the oil dipstick tube before flight and then removed after the oil > and > > case are warm and before flight? Thanx, Rion > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Meketa" <acgm(at)gvtc.com>
Subject: Re: Need relay education
Date: Dec 22, 2001
Kim The relay is a very simple but often misunderstood item. I have had very good auto mechanics look at me in bewilderment when they were asked to troubleshoot a system with a relay or modify a system by adding one. A relay is basically a switch which is turned on with a magnet. The magnet is energized by electric current. The current needed to hold a small relay energized is very low allowing a small switch and wiring to control it. Some larger relays such as on the starter do take more current to energize and may require a larger switch and wiring or an additional relay to work properly. The uses are: 1. To control a large amount of current with a small current switch. 2. To control a large amount of current without long runs of large gauge wiring back and forth to the switching device. 3. To use a ground to switch power or vice versa. 4. To use a single throw switch to control power and ground or multiple different devices at the same time at the same time. There are many more uses. These are some of the most frequently used ones in our planes. Examples: 1. If you want to use an infinity grip (or similar small switch and wiring) to run your fuel pump you will need a relay to handle the fuel pump current load instead of the small wires running to the grip. 2. If you want to use an infinity grip ( or similar small switch and wiring) to run the flaps, two relays or a fabricated set such as Van's relay deck would be needed to switch the power and ground to the flap motor. 3. You will have some type of relay in the starter circuit. One on the starter and possible one somewhere on or near the firewall. 4. The master relay is used to power up the electrical system. It is an example where a groung is used to control power. I have no way to do diagrams, but can fax some if you let me know what type of item you are trying to control with what type of switch. You may also obtain a Bosch style relay from the local auto stereo shop. A diagram of the relay is on the case and is always there to remind you how to hook it up. I am sure Bob's diagrams have schematics of the relay on them and may help if you now understand what the relay does. Maybe someone on the list can put up a good example diagram. George Meketa Cessna 140/ RV8 had DAR inspection, few more weeks to go > Forgive me if this is already in the archives but I could not find what I > need. Can someone offer me a reference on how to wire, used, and determine > use for relays? Specifically I need to learn which relay to use and how to > wire it for remote fuel pump and flap switches (on the stick). > > (I tried to ask Bob Nickols but he is too smart for me and I did not > understand his answer!) > > Kim Nicholas > RV9 > Seattle ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Garth Shearing" <garth(at)Islandnet.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel System MOD
Date: Dec 22, 2001
If you are using a Facet fuel pump, it's maximum specified ambient temperature is 60 C, (140 F). This temperature can be easily exceeded anywhere in the engine compartment. I suspect that this temperature limitation is mainly because of the power transistor used in the pump which doesn't have a particularly good heat sink. The fuel passing through will cool it somewhat, but the manufacturer has probably taken this into account. Also, don't put it in a location where there isn't air freely circulating. In a closed environment, an operating pump will heat itself up. Garth Shearing VariEze and 80% RV6A ----- Original Message ----- From: <Ghgrigson123(at)cs.com> Subject: RV-List: Fuel System MOD > > I'm building a RV 6A QB. Contemplating installing the fuel selector valve > handle on left cockpit sidewall with valve body in wing root fairing area > (is there space??). Also would like to put boost pump low on the engine side > of firewall (I've seen this on someone's website). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com>
Subject: Re: temporary oil heater
Date: Dec 22, 2001
> Does anyone know of a source for an oil/case heater that can be inserted > down the oil dipstick tube before flight and then removed after the oil and > case are warm and before flight? Thanx, Rion J.C. Whitney used to sell those. They are probably available in your local auto parts store if they still make them. I remember them as not being too effective. If you had them on an airplane engine, you would have to have a method of sealing the dip stick tube at the top. You also run the risk of melting the dip stick tube if the heater leans against it. It is some sort of high temp plastic. I don't know how much heat the tube can tolerate, but I would hate to find out one cold morning on my preflight. Or worse, at oil change with a gob of melted tube in my filter. These heater dipsticks are made to be stuck in metal car engines. I have one of the stick-on-the-sump types and it has worked great for 4 years and 560+ hours. Shows no signs of departing the sump and it is stuck on there with silicon poop, just like the instructions said. (I didn't add to the former thread on sump heaters; I was OOT.) Keeps the engine TOASTY with the help of a thermal blanket (old thick bedspread) on top of the cowl and stuffed in the air intakes. That keeps the whole engine warm in the winter, including, by the way, the cylinders. This morning: 25 degrees in the hanger, cylinder head temperature at startup: 78. Oh, I suppose the cylinder heaters would help but would add weight and the engine starts fine with just the oil heated, thank you very much. Oil holds a lot of heat. I would go with the sump heater. Can't beat 'em. IMHO Michael ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject: Throtle,Mixture & Prop Cables
Date: Dec 22, 2001
List: I will be mounting the Engine Control Cables Horizontally in the center and just below the main panel on my RV6-A as I see via the many WebSites other builders have done. Were the builders who have done the same able to use the cables Vans calls out for conventional mounting? Did you route them through the firewall as per the plans? Same exit locations? I note the RV9 calls for slightly different length cables so assume any changes on my RV6-A my also. I am running a new 0-360-A1A with carb and Constant Speed Prop. Thanks for any help the list can lend. Tom in Ohio ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 22, 2001
From: Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com>
Subject: Re: temporary oil heater
Rion, I bought a dipstick heater for my Interstate at a hardware store in Sisters, but it didn't work out as hoped. I think it gets the oil immediately around the dipstick too hot--it smokes when I remove it. Might coke the oil. Feel free to borrow it & try it. Dick Scott Estacada, OR RV-9 EAA Ch. 902 At 02:21 PM 12/21/01, you wrote: > >Does anyone know of a source for an oil/case heater that can be inserted >down the oil dipstick tube before flight and then removed after the oil and >case are warm and before flight? Thanx, Rion > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: temporary oil heater
Date: Dec 22, 2001
When I started flying the Club 172 was a 1963 model with the O-300 Continental. We used a dipstick heater. After about a year, we traded up to a 1970 model with the Lycoming. Winter came and we started using the heater again until it melted a hole in the side of the Plastic dipstick tube. Last time we used a dipstick heater. Cy Galley Editor, EAA Safety Programs cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Scott" <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: temporary oil heater Rion, I bought a dipstick heater for my Interstate at a hardware store in Sisters, but it didn't work out as hoped. I think it gets the oil immediately around the dipstick too hot--it smokes when I remove it. Might coke the oil. Feel free to borrow it & try it. Dick Scott Estacada, OR RV-9 EAA Ch. 902 At 02:21 PM 12/21/01, you wrote: > >Does anyone know of a source for an oil/case heater that can be inserted >down the oil dipstick tube before flight and then removed after the oil and >case are warm and before flight? Thanx, Rion > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: General comments on a few items
Date: Dec 22, 2001
You cannot use any aircraft originally certificated as experimental for any "for hire" operations. The two at Vans that are being used by Mike Seager for transition training are specially certified in the restricted category. You can receive flight training for yourself in your own experimental though, as long as the CFI is not making money from the plane, IE is being paid for training provided, not plane being rented. ________________________________________________________________________ ________ Dyna-focal mounts are designed to be focused at roughly the center of motion in the fully torqued condition. It takes a little to get this done. There is an order of doing it that is easiest but I can't remember what that is right now. Maybe someone less brain dead than I could jump in here. If you are using Barry mounts remember that they go in opposite directions top to bottom. If you don't get this right your cowl won't fit, once you see (and fix) the mistake. As far as I know there are only one or two lyc's that used the Dynafocal 2 type mounts. Something to do with the prop used was cause for the focal point to be focused further out. The basic idea of dynafocal is take a large excited golden retreiver that has both ends wagging all over the place. The only way to grab on is in the middle of it's torso. Grab on to either end and you're going for a ride. w ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net>
Subject: Mounting C/S Prop
Date: Dec 22, 2001
I'm about to mount the prop, but don't know if the starter ring gear is aligned properly on the hub. It's a new O-360-A1A from Van's. I'm sure this info is somewhere in the directions, but can't find it. How should the ring gear be aligned as far as the TDC index goes, and should the prop be mounted at any particular angle on the engine (maybe sort of horizontal when the engine is at TDC)? And is the torque wrench adapter for the prop bolts available from most maintenance shops? Thanks. Mike Robbins RV8Q (I)O-360 with C/S prop 80591 N88MJ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 22, 2001
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: General comments on a few items
Wheeler North wrote: > > > You cannot use any aircraft originally certificated as experimental for any > "for hire" operations. The two at Vans that are being used by Mike Seager > for transition training are specially certified in the restricted category. As I understand it you can get a exemption from EAA to rent your aircraft for compensation to another person for transition training. Jerry Springer CFI ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: Wonky ammeter, need help
Date: Dec 23, 2001
Listers, I would like your help diagnosing a condition with my ammeter. I have the B&C voltage regulator that Bob Nuckolls recommends. I have the B&C Specialty L-40 alternator. I am using Van's ammeter and a Van's 40 amp external shunt. Soon after starting the engine, the ammeter reads 10 amps on the discharge side. Slowly it will come back to zero if left long enough. When I turn on the transponder or the radio (or both), the ammeter goes to max discharge (greater than 40 amps) and stays there even if I turn of the radio and/or transponder again. The ammeter also used to do an odd thing. If the engine was off and I turned on the radio, the ammeter would read max discharge when I keyed the microphone. Sometimes the needle on the ammeter would go completely around. I thought the ammeter was to blame, and bought a new one. The new one barely flicks when I key the mike when the engine is not running, but still shows the indications described above. The voltmeter shows steady voltage of between 12 and 14 volts depending on engine RPM. The battery is always charged. I can fly OK without the ammeter working, so have labeled it "INOP" for the first 24 hours, but now is the time to fix it. Here are some ideas that have been floated by me: 1. The ammeter is wired backwards to the shunt. It is really reading a charge after starting the engine and slowly going to zero when the battery is recharged after starting. I should reverse the wires from the gauge to the shunt. (But what's going to happen when I turn on the radio or transponder?) 2. The shunt is the wrong size. The great needle deflections are caused by the fact that I'm using the wrong shunt. Everything is OK and if I had the right shunt the needle on the ammeter would be just a little one side or the other of zero and I would be a happy man. 3. The voltage regulator looks funny and should be replaced with one like everybody else uses. 4. The voltage regulator is OK, but is wired incorrectly in some way. 5. There is something wrong with the shunt and I should replace it. (The shunt looks like such a simple device that it should either work or not work.) I welcome your thoughts. I wish (not for the first time on this project) that I had taken some electrical tech courses in high school or college so I could figure out what's going on here. Stephen Soule Huntington, Vermont RV-6A N227RV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 23, 2001
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Mounting C/S Prop
--- "Michael J. Robbins" wrote: > > I'm about to mount the prop, but don't know if the starter ring gear > is > aligned properly on the hub. It's a new O-360-A1A from Van's. I'm > sure > this info is somewhere in the directions, but can't find it. How > should the > ring gear be aligned as far as the TDC index goes, and should the > prop be > mounted at any particular angle on the engine (maybe sort of > horizontal when > the engine is at TDC)? And is the torque wrench adapter for the prop > bolts > available from most maintenance shops? > > Thanks. > > Mike Robbins > RV8Q (I)O-360 with C/S prop 80591 N88MJ > > > Mike: The drive lugs should only allow the starter ring gear to go on one way. There is a shoulder on one lug. If you look at the holes in the prop hub, you will see that two holes are a different depth. Once the starter ring gear is on, you should see that two lug are also different lengths. The prop will mount one of two ways. Either is correct as the blades are 180 degrees apart. For my O-320, I made my own extension wrench. I purchased a combination wrench and a socket. I cut the wrench and welded on the socket. The distance was measured and the formula in AC 43.13 used to calculate the torque value on the wrench for the torque spec Hartzell recommends. ==== Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 990.5+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com Send your FREE holiday greetings online! http://greetings.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Planejoel(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 23, 2001
Subject: Re: Throtle,Mixture & Prop Cables
I have this setup, I do not recall the plans showing anything, as there are a variety of engines. I just used the most direct route. I would suggest mounting the assembly such that it will be easy to remove (Drop) much easier to work under the panel. Joe RV6A 0360 A1D CP ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Planejoel(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 23, 2001
Subject: Re: Mounting C/S Prop
I checked with both our local maintenance shops, no prop extension torque wrench, they just grunted them tight. I found a maintenance person with the proper tool and knowledge of what he was doing. That's who installed my prop at about the 2:30 (proping) position. (As I remember CP/engine were quite expensive.) Joe RV6A CP ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 23, 2001
Subject: Re: Throtle,Mixture & Prop Cables
From: "Robert Dickson" <bubba(at)coastalnet.com>
Tom I've just been in the middle of this process and have also mounted the controls on a subpanel in the center. What I have found is that Van's cables and exit locations work pretty well. I'm using a 45.5" throttle cable and a 41.5" mixture cable. I'm also using Vans carb bracket. The exit location for the mixture is very close to the engine mount, so fudge to the high side on that one. That cable also makes a slight bend immediately forward to get to the bracket, but works fine like that. The throttle exit location is perfect as far as I can tell, as well as the location for the carb heat. I've recently stressed about how to support the cables at the firewall and have tried both grommets and cable safes. Just another point of confusion. I hope this info helps. Robert Dickson RV-6A fwf Fayetteville NC ---------- >From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> >To: >Subject: RV-List: Throtle,Mixture & Prop Cables >Date: Sat, Dec 22, 2001, 7:44 PM > > > List: I will be mounting the Engine Control Cables Horizontally in the > center and just below the main panel on my RV6-A as I see via the many > WebSites other builders have done. > Were the builders who have done the same able to use the cables > Vans calls out for conventional mounting? > Did you route them through the firewall as per the plans? Same > exit locations? I note the RV9 calls for slightly different length > cables so assume any changes on my RV6-A my also. > I am running a new 0-360-A1A with carb and Constant Speed Prop. > Thanks for any help the list can lend. > > Tom in Ohio > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 23, 2001
Subject: Re: Throtle,Mixture & Prop Cables
From: "Robert Dickson" <bubba(at)coastalnet.com>
my plans also didn't show any locations, but it was pointed out to me that the firewall penetration points were printed in a recent Rvator. these were what I used. Robert Dickson RV-6A fwf ---------- >From: Planejoel(at)aol.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: Throtle,Mixture & Prop Cables >Date: Sun, Dec 23, 2001, 7:28 AM > > > I have this setup, I do not recall the plans showing anything, as there are a > variety of engines. I just used the most direct route. I would suggest > mounting the assembly such that it will be easy to remove (Drop) much easier > to work under the panel. > Joe > > RV6A 0360 A1D CP > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: General comments on a few items
Date: Dec 23, 2001
While it used to be true, the below is not true. The EAA has a waiver that permits "transitional" training. Call 1-888-322-4636 to get the full details and the free paper work. Plane must be maintained much like the commercial rental at your FBO. Van pioneered this training but there are over a dozen planes with the waiver at this time. The majority are RVs. Cy Galley Editor, EAA Safety Programs cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org ----- Original Message ----- From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> Subject: RV-List: General comments on a few items You cannot use any aircraft originally certificated as experimental for any "for hire" operations. The two at Vans that are being used by Mike Seager for transition training are specially certified in the restricted category. You can receive flight training for yourself in your own experimental though, as long as the CFI is not making money from the plane, IE is being paid for training provided, not plane being rented. ________________________________________________________________________ ________ Dyna-focal mounts are designed to be focused at roughly the center of motion in the fully torqued condition. It takes a little to get this done. There is an order of doing it that is easiest but I can't remember what that is right now. Maybe someone less brain dead than I could jump in here. If you are using Barry mounts remember that they go in opposite directions top to bottom. If you don't get this right your cowl won't fit, once you see (and fix) the mistake. As far as I know there are only one or two lyc's that used the Dynafocal 2 type mounts. Something to do with the prop used was cause for the focal point to be focused further out. The basic idea of dynafocal is take a large excited golden retreiver that has both ends wagging all over the place. The only way to grab on is in the middle of it's torso. Grab on to either end and you're going for a ride. w ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject: Re: Throtle,Mixture & Prop Cables
Date: Dec 23, 2001
----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Dickson" <bubba(at)coastalnet.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Throtle,Mixture & Prop Cables > > my plans also didn't show any locations, but it was pointed out to me that > the firewall penetration points were printed in a recent Rvator. these were > what I used. > > Robert Dickson > RV-6A fwf > > ---------- > >From: Planejoel(at)aol.com > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > >Subject: Re: RV-List: Throtle,Mixture & Prop Cables > >Date: Sun, Dec 23, 2001, 7:28 AM > > > > > > > I have this setup, I do not recall the plans showing anything, as there are a > > variety of engines. I just used the most direct route. I would suggest > > mounting the assembly such that it will be easy to remove (Drop) much easier > > to work under the panel. > > Joe > > > > RV6A 0360 A1D CP > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject: Re: Throtle,Mixture & Prop Cables
Date: Dec 23, 2001
Robert, I saw the drawing in the Rvator but either I have a bad copy or yours eyes are better than mine because I can't make the small letters that are the Key to the drawing! Does anyone on the list know if a larger copy(Readable) is available online somewhere? Tom (No White Xmas in Ohio) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Dickson" <bubba(at)coastalnet.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Throtle,Mixture & Prop Cables > > my plans also didn't show any locations, but it was pointed out to me that > the firewall penetration points were printed in a recent Rvator. these were > what I used. > > Robert Dickson > RV-6A fwf > > ---------- > >From: Planejoel(at)aol.com > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > >Subject: Re: RV-List: Throtle,Mixture & Prop Cables > >Date: Sun, Dec 23, 2001, 7:28 AM > > > > > > > I have this setup, I do not recall the plans showing anything, as there are a > > variety of engines. I just used the most direct route. I would suggest > > mounting the assembly such that it will be easy to remove (Drop) much easier > > to work under the panel. > > Joe > > > > RV6A 0360 A1D CP > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Grover" <grover(at)ev1.net>
Subject: Re: Rocket-List: Indicated Airspeed
Date: Dec 23, 2001
> > I have to agree with Laird but my -6A is not flying yet! At a local > uncontrolled airport about a month ago, reportedly a RV-4 driver took off > like the description being discussed here. Someone on the radio asked him > to return to the airport and discuss the "non-standard" departure. Well, > after some verbal exchange, it turned out the caller was an FAA ramp > inspector. > Food for Thought! > Marty in Brentwood TN Since when is a high angle of attack and/or high rate of climb a non-standard departure. When I depart Orange Country / Santa Ana, CA (SNA) in a B-737, are standard "non-standard" takeoff requires us to pull up to 21 to 25 degrees nose up only to pull off a significant about of power and push over the top at 800'agl --- all in the name of noise abatement. What about short field takeoffs? Just because a Fed say's it's so doesn't make it so (remember Bob Hoover). Being smart and being legal are two different things. David ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DFCPAC(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 23, 2001
Subject: props
i have an rv4 with a lyc. o-320e2d, the prop i have is a sensenich 68x78 prop. i was out flying with another 4 today and his speed was a lot better. what is the best prop i can use for top end speed, thank you dan carley ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 23, 2001
From: Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Throtle,Mixture & Prop Cables
Tom, which rvator had the drawing? Dan --- Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote: > > > Robert, I saw the drawing in the Rvator but either I > have a bad copy or > yours eyes are better than mine because I can't make > the small letters that > are the Key to the drawing! > Does anyone on the list know if a larger > copy(Readable) is available > online somewhere? > > Tom (No White Xmas in Ohio) > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Robert Dickson" <bubba(at)coastalnet.com> > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: Throtle,Mixture & Prop Cables > > > > > > > my plans also didn't show any locations, but it > was pointed out to me that > > the firewall penetration points were printed in a > recent Rvator. these > were > > what I used. > > > > Robert Dickson > > RV-6A fwf > > > > ---------- > > >From: Planejoel(at)aol.com > > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > >Subject: Re: RV-List: Throtle,Mixture & Prop > Cables > > >Date: Sun, Dec 23, 2001, 7:28 AM > > > > > > > > > > > I have this setup, I do not recall the plans > showing anything, as there > are a > > > variety of engines. I just used the most direct > route. I would suggest > > > mounting the assembly such that it will be easy > to remove (Drop) much > easier > > > to work under the panel. > > > > Joe > > > > > > RV6A 0360 A1D CP > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Contributions of > any other form > > latest messages. > other List members. > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/search > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > Send your FREE holiday greetings online! http://greetings.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 23, 2001
Subject: Areo Shell Oil Recall
Can someone please give me the website that had the information on the Aero Shell Oil Recall. Your help would greatly be appreciated. Tim Barnes Meangreen RV-4 N39TB ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 23, 2001
From: Scott Haskins <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com>
Subject: Drill / Rivet Gun ?s
All, I have a couple of tool-related questions I was hoping to get some insight on. I already looked in the archives, but I saw a very divided opinion on most of these things (I am sure I will get the same). I think I have finally decided on the 8A, and I am in the tool "acquisition" phase (getting ready to order the first kit). Budget will be tight, and I am more likely to spend more time than money if that becomes the tradeoff when tool shopping. I will obviously probably go the slow build route. My questions: 1) Air Drills - I have seen mention that a 2600 rpm minimum is recommended. I have seen several 2200-2300 rpm drills that are a considerable savings. Is the 2600 and over really required, or could one get by easily enough with the 22-2300? 2) Rivet Guns - The archives really appeared divided on this (2x vs 3x). Assuming I will be getting the pre-fab spars (and this is the only airplane I will be doing), is the 2x sufficient? I have heard that they have difficulty with 1/8" rivets? There does not seem to be much price difference between 2 and 3x, so I am really looking for the model better suited to the RV. 3) C - frame dimpler - How essential is this? I plan on getting the Tatco 3/1.5" hand squeezer...can it do the same thing (just take more time)? Thanks in advance for all the help. Scott Send a friend your Buddy Card and stay in contact always with Excite Messenger http://messenger.excite.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Areo Shell Oil Recall
Date: Dec 23, 2001
http://www.aeroshell.com/recall.html and http://www.eaa.org/communications/eaanews/011130_aeroshellrecall.html are two good sites. Cy Galley Editor, EAA Safety Programs cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org ----- Original Message ----- From: <MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com> Subject: RV-List: Areo Shell Oil Recall Can someone please give me the website that had the information on the Aero Shell Oil Recall. Your help would greatly be appreciated. Tim Barnes Meangreen RV-4 N39TB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HalBenjamin(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 23, 2001
Subject: Re: Drill / Rivet Gun ?s
In a message dated 12/23/2001 3:35:16 PM Eastern Standard Time, tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com writes: << 1) Air Drills - I have seen mention that a 2600 rpm minimum is recommended. I have seen several 2200-2300 rpm drills that are a considerable savings. Is the 2600 and over really required, or could one get by easily enough with the 22-2300? I think 2200-2300 would work fine. You do want to get a good one though. You're going to do a hell of a lot of drilling! 2) Rivet Guns - The archives really appeared divided on this (2x vs 3x). Assuming I will be getting the pre-fab spars (and this is the only airplane I will be doing), is the 2x sufficient? I have heard that they have difficulty with 1/8" rivets? There does not seem to be much price difference between 2 and 3x, so I am really looking for the model better suited to the RV. I have a 3x. Works well for me. I just lower the pressure for the small rivets. 3) C - frame dimpler - How essential is this? I plan on getting the Tatco 3/1.5" hand squeezer...can it do the same thing (just take more time)? You WILL need the frame dimpler. Hal Benjamin RV-4 - Ailerons Long Island, NY ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Harvey Sigmon" <flyhars(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: props
Date: Dec 23, 2001
Dan: Just one persons opinion, today I was flying with the speed demons in their 0360/Hartzell props. At 6500' I was indicating approx 160 K at 2575 RPM. The engine I use is O-320 BIA, 160HP and a Senenich 70X79. You see only about 2200RPM static and climb. Climb Vertical speed is about 1400-1700 with just one person onboard. It takes a little while for the speed and RPM to increase to maximum. My opinion only, I hope this don't start a bad thread from the other builders. Harvey Sigmon RV-6AQB N602RV > [Original Message] > From: <DFCPAC(at)aol.com> > To: > Date: 12/23/01 8:10:56 AM > Subject: RV-List: props > > > i have an rv4 with a lyc. o-320e2d, the prop i have is a sensenich 68x78 > prop. i was out flying with another 4 today and his speed was a lot better. > what is the best prop i can use for top end speed, > > thank you > dan carley > > > > > --- Harvey Sigmon --- flyhars(at)earthlink.net --- EarthLink: It's your Internet. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 23, 2001
From: kenneth beene <kbeene(at)citilink.com>
Subject: Re: Drill / Rivet Gun ?s
> 1) Air Drills - Is the 2600 and over really required, or could one get by easily > enough withthe 22-2300? I built my RV-6 with an Avery 3/8 in. air drill. Worked fine. I bought a 1/4 in. 3600 RPM Sioux 1412 for building my RV-4. It is really nice - low weight, good balanced, excellent trigger action and quiet. The higher speed works much better for the 3/32 holes. > 2) Rivet Guns - The archives really appeared divided on this (2x vs 3x). I have a 3x. I am not replacing it with a 2x but if I were buying one now I would get the smaller 2x. > 3) C - frame dimpler - How essential is this? Required Ken RV-6A N94KB flying RV-4 Building http://www.mninter.net/~kbeene/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 23, 2001
Subject: Re: Drill / Rivet Gun ?s
In a message dated 12/23/01 3:35:14 PM Eastern Standard Time, tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com writes: << All, I have a couple of tool-related questions I was hoping to get some insight on. I already looked in the archives, but I saw a very divided opinion on most of these things (I am sure I will get the same). I think I have finally decided on the 8A, and I am in the tool "acquisition" phase (getting ready to order the first kit). Budget will be tight, and I am more likely to spend more time than money if that becomes the tradeoff when tool shopping. I will obviously probably go the slow build route. My questions: 1) Air Drills - I have seen mention that a 2600 rpm minimum is recommended. I have seen several 2200-2300 rpm drills that are a considerable savings. Is the 2600 and over really required, or could one get by easily enough with the 22-2300? 2) Rivet Guns - The archives really appeared divided on this (2x vs 3x). Assuming I will be getting the pre-fab spars (and this is the only airplane I will be doing), is the 2x sufficient? I have heard that they have difficulty with 1/8" rivets? There does not seem to be much price difference between 2 and 3x, so I am really looking for the model better suited to the RV. 3) C - frame dimpler - How essential is this? I plan on getting the Tatco 3/1.5" hand squeezer...can it do the same thing (just take more time)? Thanks in advance for all the help. Scott >> The fast drill is absolutely not required, it is just that you'll be drilling 15,000 holes or so, and saving a second or two a hole adds up after a while. I used a 2x and a 3x gun. Either works fine, but if I had it to do again, I'd go 3x. The 3x gun sets rivets faster, and does have an easier time with the 1/8" rivets. A big bucking bar helps too. The C frame dimpler is a necessity. You could use the old technology dimpler (basically a male dimple set in the rivet gun, with the female set attached to a modified bucking bar), but that would take forever, requires 2 people, and you probably wouldn't like the result (safe, but probably more flaws than you'd like). Kyle Boatright 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider Kennesaw, GA http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: Re: Mounting C/S Prop
Date: Dec 23, 2001
> I checked with both our local maintenance shops, no prop extension torque > wrench, they just grunted them tight. I found a maintenance person with the > proper tool and knowledge of what he was doing. That's who installed my prop > at about the 2:30 (proping) position I would stop checking with any maintenance shop which simply "grunts" the prop bolts tight. Bolts are torqued in many cases not to insure adequate tightness, but to insure that they are not overtightened. If your prop bolts were just grunted tight, you really should re-do them properly. I coughed up about $160 bucks to McMaster and got the ideal setup. See their P/N 5347A23, interchangeable head click style torque wrench, and add the appropriate open end wrench size to it. (This torque wrench takes various heads, in this case an open end wrench). Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN 6A N66AP flying 68 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 23, 2001
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: Drill / Rivet Gun ?s
> >All, > >I have a couple of tool-related questions I was hoping to get some insight >on. I already looked in the archives, but I saw a very divided opinion on >most of these things (I am sure I will get the same). I think I have >finally decided on the 8A, and I am in the tool "acquisition" phase (getting >ready to order the first kit). Budget will be tight, and I am more likely >to spend more time than money if that becomes the tradeoff when tool >shopping. I will obviously probably go the slow build route. My questions: > >1) Air Drills - I have seen mention that a 2600 rpm minimum is recommended. >I have seen several 2200-2300 rpm drills that are a considerable savings. >Is the 2600 and over really required, or could one get by easily enough with >the 22-2300? Higher rpm does a slightly better job, but 2200 rpm should do a perfectly adequate job. Sometimes when I'm doing a bunch of work where I'll need two different size drills, I've been known to chuck different size drills in the air drill and rechargeable electric drill (which turns a lot less than 2600 rpm). >2) Rivet Guns - The archives really appeared divided on this (2x vs 3x). >Assuming I will be getting the pre-fab spars (and this is the only airplane >I will be doing), is the 2x sufficient? I have heard that they have >difficulty with 1/8" rivets? There does not seem to be much price >difference between 2 and 3x, so I am really looking for the model better >suited to the RV. I think different brand rivet guns might have different abilities. The length and diameter of air hose you use is probably also a factor. The stiffness of the structure is a big factor too, as the rivet gun has to cause the structure to move to set the rivet (unless you are back riveting). The RV-8 has some areas of structure that are very stiff (landing gear box area comes to mind). I use a long air hose, and my 3x gun has had to work hard to get a very small number of 1/8" rivets that are in areas where the structure is very stiff. If I had to do it again, I would stick with the 3x gun. Be sure to spend the extra bucks to buy a swivel headed flush rivet set, with the rubber guard. Yes, a very experienced riveter can do a good job with a standard (non-swiveling) flush rivet set, but a new riveter will do a much, much better job with the swiveling set with the rubber guard. >3) C - frame dimpler - How essential is this? I plan on getting the Tatco >3/1.5" hand squeezer...can it do the same thing (just take more time)? C-frame is absolutely essential. If money is a major issue, you might try looking for an RV flyer who is willing to sell, loan or rent some tools. > >Thanks in advance for all the help. > >Scott -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine) Ottawa, Canada http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Throtle,Mixture & Prop Cables
Date: Dec 23, 2001
The RVator you are referring to is the 1st issue of 2001. When I take off the bi-focals, I can read the Font size (about 1.5), and it shows the RV-6 throttle at coordinates X=1", Y=3/34". For the Carb Heat, the coordinates ar 1, 6 5/8 and the Mixture is 1, 7 5/8. The reference 0,0 point appears to be the first rivet point at the lower left hand corner of the fireshield cutout box. The "X" dimension then goes positive to the right, "Y" dimension appears to go positive in the down direction (which is opposite of what you use on any graph). All of this is from the front looking aft. I have a fuel injected system and the hole for that throttle cable made no sense, it was right in the middle of my battery box. So I called Vans last week. They said that both the RV 7 and 9 have the battery boxes mounted up on higher on the firewall, which would not cause the problem. However, with the RV6(A) the battery box was offset to the right (fwd looking aft) to allow room to drill the holes for the control cables to come through. I went out and looked on my aircraft. The battery box bracket is centered on the fuselage. The actual box is slightly (very slightly) off set to one side. I guess it doesn't take much to give you the room for a cable. Duane Bentley RV6 Finishing Kit N515DB (Reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 18, 2001
Subject: Re: gear leg stiffeners
From: James Freeman <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net>
On Sunday, December 16, 2001, at 07:15 PM, SportAV8R(at)aol.com wrote: > > I was expecting, in fact braced for, a bad shimmy on the turf runway > when I > eased it on the first time. What I am pleased to report is that every > landing since getting rid of the stiffeners has been great! The > airplane > sticks to my bumpy turf strip like it had Velcro on it... no tendency to > bounce or porpoise at all. These are preliminary results, and have not > been > attempted on asphalt yet, I could (easily) be wrong, but I seem to remember a discussion of this very thing, maybe in an RVator. IIRC, turf strips normally damp the shimmy, it's only on pavement that it's an issue. James Freeman ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 23, 2001
Subject: Re: Areo Shell Oil Recall
In a message dated 12/23/2001 12:54:15 PM Pacific Standard Time, cgalley(at)qcbc.org writes: > http://www.aeroshell.com/recall.html and > http://www.eaa.org/communications/eaanews/011130_aeroshellrecall.html are > two good sites. > > Cy Galley > Editor, EAA Safety Programs > cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com> > To: > Subject: RV-List: Areo Shell Oil Recall > > > > Can someone please give me the website that had the information on the Aero > Shell Oil Recall. Your help would greatly be appreciated. > > Tim Barnes > Meangreen RV-4 > N39TB > Thank you Cy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wes" <whays(at)camalott.com>
Subject: Re: Mounting C/S Prop
Date: Dec 23, 2001
Gary Sobek wrote: For my O-320, I made my own extension wrench. I purchased a combination wrench and a socket. I cut the wrench and welded on the socket. The distance was measured and the formula in AC 43.13 used to calculate the torque value on the wrench for the torque spec Hartzell recommends. Mike, I tried brazing and welding the socket to the wrench like Gary did on his prop. I obviously wasn't a very good welder because I couldn't get the weld to hold. I ended up using a shorty 3/4 inch combination wrench. I used the end of my 3/8" drive spark plug wrench that had a 3/4" hex head on the end to insert in the box end and used the open end on the prop bolts. I calculated the formula and used it to tighten the prop on my 0-360. It worked very well. Wishing I could weld, Wes Hays Winters, TX N844WB O-360 w Hartzell c/s 200+ hours. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: gear leg stiffeners
Date: Dec 23, 2001
I have no stiffeners on my 6A. I only have shimmy on grass -- none on pavement. The shimmy is not divergent and in no way impairs directional control. My instructions said to try the gear first w/o stiffeners, which I did and I liked the result. Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 110 hours ----- Original Message ----- From: "James Freeman" <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: gear leg stiffeners > > > On Sunday, December 16, 2001, at 07:15 PM, SportAV8R(at)aol.com wrote: > > > > > I was expecting, in fact braced for, a bad shimmy on the turf runway > > when I > > eased it on the first time. What I am pleased to report is that every > > landing since getting rid of the stiffeners has been great! The > > airplane > > sticks to my bumpy turf strip like it had Velcro on it... no tendency to > > bounce or porpoise at all. These are preliminary results, and have not > > been > > attempted on asphalt yet, > > I could (easily) be wrong, but I seem to remember a discussion of this > very thing, maybe in an RVator. IIRC, turf strips normally damp the > shimmy, it's only on pavement that it's an issue. > > James Freeman > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Thomas Rupe <trupe(at)ridgenet.net>
Subject: Prop
Date: Dec 23, 2001
Dan, Sounds like you have a climb prop. I have a Felix 69x69 on the front end of my 150HP. I like it a lot. Tom Rupe N3882N ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 23, 2001
From: "Charles L. Cotton" <charles(at)cottonfamily.com>
Subject: Superior Kit Engine?
I hope I wasn't dreaming this, but I recall reading an article not too long ago about Superior Air Parts, Inc. putting out a kit engine for experimental aircraft. (I'm not talking about their XP-360 series.) As I recall, the article said an O-360 (perhaps an IO-360) was something like $16,000, but I don't know what that included in the way of accessories, if anything. Also, the article said there would be "classes" for purchasers to take and assemble their engines with Superior mechanics looking over their shoulders. Does anyone else recall this article? Thanks, Chas. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Trumpfheller(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 23, 2001
Subject: Re: Superior Kit Engine?
Charles, Check out: www.superiorairparts.com for info on the SL 350 engine. It's in the XP 360 section. Bob Trumpfheller charles(at)cottonfamily.com> I hope I wasn't dreaming this, but I recall reading an article not too long ago about Superior Air Parts, Inc. putting out a kit engine for experimental aircraft. (I'm not talking about their XP-360 series.) As I recall, the article said an O-360 (perhaps an IO-360) was something like $16,000, but I don't know what that included in the way of accessories, if anything. Also, the article said there would be "classes" for purchasers to take and assemble their engines with Superior mechanics looking over their shoulders. >> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 24, 2001
From: Doug Gray <douggray(at)ihug.com.au>
Subject: Re: Throtle,Mixture & Prop Cables
Try Doug Reeves website for copies of these plans revisions. viz: http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/plan_revisions/1st_issue_2001_pg2.jpg Doug Gray ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Grover" <grover(at)ev1.net>
Subject: Re: Superior Kit Engine?
Date: Dec 23, 2001
> > I hope I wasn't dreaming this, but I recall reading an article not too long > ago about Superior Air Parts, Inc. putting out a kit engine for > experimental aircraft. (I'm not talking about their XP-360 series.) As I > recall, the article said an O-360 (perhaps an IO-360) was something like > $16,000, but I don't know what that included in the way of accessories, if > anything. Also, the article said there would be "classes" for purchasers > to take and assemble their engines with Superior mechanics looking over > their shoulders. > > Does anyone else recall this article? > > Thanks, > Chas. A fairly complete article on the Superior Kit engine appeared in the Oct. '01 issue of Kitplanes. I spoke with them in October and the "kit" O-360-B1A2 was listed for $16,990 (as of 10/10/01) and does not included the accessories. They sell an accessory package for $3200 that includes the mags/harness, carb., starter, fuel pump, spin on oil filter adapter, spark plugs, and the oil line for the prop governor. The cost of the engine includes a one day school conducted at Mattituck. They do not help you build your engine. The class is set up to have a group of people build up an engine that they have for the class. Then you head home and tackle your engine on your own. David ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JTAnon(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 24, 2001
Subject: Wing Fuselage Assembly
Quick Builders, I need some advice Building an RV7A QB in a small shop. I just finished the major assemblies on both wings today. My plan was to put the wings in storage ( where my fuselage is now), bring the fuselage home, complete the fuselage, finish kit, install the engine; then do final assembly (i.e. put on the wings) at the airport. So what's the problem? I'm reading ahead tonight in section 8 of the manual (fuselage) and smack dab in the middle of section 8 (page 13) comes "Wing/Fuselage Assembly". Is my plan in trouble? Is there a reason to mount the wings this early in the process? John McDonnell (RV7A QB - wings and emp done) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 23, 2001
From: Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Wing Fuselage Assembly
John, You can do it later, it's just that there's so much of it. You can't fab the push/pull tubes for the flight controls, do the fuel system plumbing etc. until the wings and tail are fitted. I'm trying to get as much done at home as possible so that airport final assembly truly is that (or nearly so). I'm even planning to paint all the parts after disassembly and before the airport move. I know that if I had to drive to work on the plane, there'd be a lot of days when I didn't get around to it. Here at the house, it's a lot easier to get at least a little bit of work in on it every day. I didn't have room to put the wings on, so I put a temporary extension on the garage. Even so, I'll have to pull the wings off to get enough room to mount the engine. Where there's a will there's a way. Good luck, Ed Holyoke 6QB -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of JTAnon(at)aol.com Subject: RV-List: Wing Fuselage Assembly Quick Builders, I need some advice Building an RV7A QB in a small shop. I just finished the major assemblies on both wings today. My plan was to put the wings in storage ( where my fuselage is now), bring the fuselage home, complete the fuselage, finish kit, install the engine; then do final assembly (i.e. put on the wings) at the airport. So what's the problem? I'm reading ahead tonight in section 8 of the manual (fuselage) and smack dab in the middle of section 8 (page 13) comes "Wing/Fuselage Assembly". Is my plan in trouble? Is there a reason to mount the wings this early in the process? John McDonnell (RV7A QB - wings and emp done) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Planejoel(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 24, 2001
Subject: Re: Wing Fuselage Assembly
I have the older version, I don't remember what the instructions were BUT the logical sequence at the time seemed from what I remember, was to turn the fuselage upside down, install the wings (or false spars)then install and drill the main gear to fuselage and spar per instructions. Rotating the fuselage upright, installing empenage, engine etc. Upon completion haul out to airport install wings, start engine, become airborne etc. This will probably take more than a day. Joe RV6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eric Irwin" <rv6eric(at)home.com>
Subject: Superior Kit Engine?
Date: Dec 24, 2001
I recently came across the web site of a RV-6A builder who is using this engine. He has photo's showing the assembly process. You can see the photos at: http://www.attawayair.com/new_page_3.htm Eric Irwin Coral Springs, FL RV-6QB ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 24, 2001
From: tom sargent <sarg314(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Wing Fuselage Assembly
JTAnon(at)aol.com wrote: > Building an RV7A QB in a small shop. I just finished the major assemblies > on both wings today. My plan was to put the wings in storage ( where my > fuselage is now), bring the fuselage home, complete the fuselage, finish kit, > install the engine; then do final assembly (i.e. put on the wings) at the > airport. So what's the problem? John: I had the same experience exactly. I ended up mounting the wings on the fuselage in my garage (it fits with about 6 inches to spare - no wingtips). You have to do the tank brackets, fuel system plumbing, fuel vent tubing, and control linkages. Perhaps you could leave all that till the airport, but it just increases the amount time you'll be paying for a hangar and not flying. Since I'm the slowest builder west of the Mississippi, I figured it would be too long a period. Also I figure it will be harder to build at the airport, that is, away from my home/shop. So, the wings are on now and I'm glad I did it since it is taking me longer than I expected to do these things. Everything takes me longer than I expected. I intend to finish everything as much as posible at home and transport the pieces to the hangar as I finish painting them. So, I should be doing only final assembly of major assemblies at the airport. Someday... -- Tom Sargent. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Finish Painting Sequence
From: Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
Date: Dec 24, 2001
11:24:12 AM Tom brought up a good point. Have any of you finish painted the plane before installing the wings. My scheme does not require a tie-in between the fuse and wings. Is it possible to mount the metal wing root fairings without trashing the paint. You could cover the finished paint with clear shelf paper for protection. What say ye? Eric Henson Bah Humbug! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 24, 2001
Subject: Re: Finish Painting Sequence
In a message dated 12/24/01 11:37:09 AM Eastern Standard Time, Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com writes: << Tom brought up a good point. Have any of you finish painted the plane before installing the wings. My scheme does not require a tie-in between the fuse and wings. Is it possible to mount the metal wing root fairings without trashing the paint. You could cover the finished paint with clear shelf paper for protection. What say ye? Eric Henson Bah Humbug! >> Could it be done? I don't think so. First, the wings are fitted, adjusted, fitted again, etc. before they finally fit. This would give you plenty of chances to screw up your paint. Then, there is a row of screws attaching the fuse bottom skin to the wing roots. The holes for these screws need to be drilled with the wings attached, then you get to attach plate-nuts to the wings and dimple the fuse bottom skin. You couldn't do this without boogering up the paint on the bottom fuse skin. Kyle Boatright 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider Kennesaw, GA http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Subject: Re: Finish Painting Sequence
Date: Dec 24, 2001
> Have any of you finish painted the plane before installing the wings. My > scheme does not require a tie-in between the fuse and wings. Is it possible > to mount the metal wing root fairings without trashing the paint. You > could cover the finished paint with clear shelf paper for protection. What > say ye? I painted mine in pieces before final assembly and it worked just fine. If I had it to do over again I would do it exactly the same way. The wings are SO much easier to paint off the plane, as are the emp components. Also, no need tor the clear shelf paper, just be careful. I didn't get one scratch from assembling it this way. Here's the story... http://www.rv-8.com/Paint.htm Randy Lervold RV-8, 140.5 hrs www.rv-8.com Home Wing VAF ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Subject: Re: Finish Painting Sequence
Date: Dec 24, 2001
>> Have any of you finish painted the plane before installing the wings. My >> scheme does not require a tie-in between the fuse and wings. Is it possible >> to mount the metal wing root fairings without trashing the paint. You >> could cover the finished paint with clear shelf paper for protection. What >> say ye? >> Eric Henson > > Could it be done? I don't think so. First, the wings are fitted, adjusted, > fitted again, etc. before they finally fit. This would give you plenty of > chances to screw up your paint. Then, there is a row of screws attaching the > fuse bottom skin to the wing roots. The holes for these screws need to be > drilled with the wings attached, then you get to attach plate-nuts to the > wings and dimple the fuse bottom skin. You couldn't do this without boogering > up the paint on the bottom fuse skin. > > Kyle Boatright Oops, let me amend my previous advice. I thought you meant paint the wings when off the plane but AFTER you have done all your fitting etc. Kyle is correct, it really wouldn't be practical to paint before the initial fitting. Randy Lervold ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Finish Painting Sequence
Date: Dec 24, 2001
Kyle Boatright said: > Could it be done? I don't think so. First, the wings are fitted, adjusted, > fitted again, etc. before they finally fit. This would give you plenty of > chances to screw up your paint. Agreed. But if you're careful I think it could be done without messing up the paint. For example, I'd wrap my wings in a "cocoon" of blankets fastened with duct tape, and put some protective tape elsewhere in places that are likely to get scraped when inserting/removing the wings and fitting the fairings. > Then, there is a row of screws attaching the > fuse bottom skin to the wing roots. The holes for these screws need to be > drilled with the wings attached, then you get to attach plate-nuts to the > wings and dimple the fuse bottom skin. You couldn't do this without boogering > up the paint on the bottom fuse skin. Again, agreed. But this is paint at the bottom of the fuse and it seems to me you could mask off this area and re-shoot it and end up with only a paint line under there where its never seen anyway. The screws that hold the top wing root fairing would have this issue as well, but the area is covered up by the fairing so any touch-up on the wing surface wouldn't show. Actually the one part that would really give me pause is the hole for the flap actuator. That's something that you will have to locate/drill with the wings in place. Or is this some sort of new-fangled pre-punched or QB thing with the hole pre-drilled? If not, that would be something you'd need to touch up. Wouldn't show except on close inspection, but I think it would show. Bottom line, I wouldn't do it that way if I could help it, but I think it could be done. Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs) Portland, OR www.vanshomewing.org ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
Subject: Re: temporary oil heater
Date: Dec 24, 2001
Hi Rion: It is the portable type, it is an element and blower fan enclosed in a metal container about 2 1/2 inches thick by about 12x12 inches square and plugs in to 110volt outlet. The hot air is blown out one end with a fair velocity, like I said all that is required is to get the blower end pointed into the lower cowl opening and it does a good job. For temps below say 0 F you are probably looking at a hour. When I can turn the prop freely I start it, just keep the RPM down around 1000 to keep the oil pressure down until it starts to warm up. Next time I am in the hangar will get you some better info. Eustace ----- Original Message ----- From: "J. Rion Bourgeois" <rion(at)worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: temporary oil heater > > Thanks Eustace. What type of "in-car heater" are you using? Rion > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Eustace Bowhay <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: temporary oil heater > > > > > > Hi Rion: > > > > My thoughts are, putting a heating element directly into the oil would > > damage the oil as it would be operating at a temp that would burn the oil. > > > > All I use is a in-car heater inserted from the rear into the scoop on the > > bottom of the cowling and plug the air intakes with some foam rubber. At > > temperatures in the 10-35F thirty minutes is adequate. On the 6A which has > > the brace on the scoop I plan to make up a suitable divided extension or > > just set the heater on a stand of the correct height at the back of the > > scoop. > > This of course is done with the aircraft in a hangar were there is no > wind. > > > > Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "RION BOURGEOIS" <rion(at)worldnet.att.net> > > To: "rv-list" > > Subject: RV-List: temporary oil heater > > > > > > > > > > Does anyone know of a source for an oil/case heater that can be inserted > > > down the oil dipstick tube before flight and then removed after the oil > > and > > > case are warm and before flight? Thanx, Rion > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 24, 2001
From: rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV4-List: Prop
Hi Tom; I also have a 150hp RV4 but the Rose electronic ignition added 150 rpm to my top end so I had to re-tire my Sterba. I bought a used 68X72 Warnke and had it refinished by Margie and I also have a Craig Catto composite 68X70. Both props produce 215 IAS mph top speed @ W2850/C2950 respectively. The Catto is EXTREMELY smooth and bulletproof. The Warnke also works well and seems to "change pitch" inflight. For durability off grass and rough strips, the composite Catto and Carbon Graphite tipped Warnke are great. Rob Ray N557RR --- Thomas Rupe wrote: > --> RV4-List message posted by: Thomas Rupe > > > Dan, > Sounds like you have a climb prop. I have a Felix > 69x69 on the front > end of my 150HP. I like it a lot. > > Tom Rupe > N3882N > > > > Contributions of > any other form > > latest messages. > other List members. > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/search > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > Send your FREE holiday greetings online! http://greetings.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 24, 2001
From: Greg Puckett <rv8er(at)concentric.net>
Subject: 200hp FAB interference on RV-8
Has anyone tried fitting the FAB System for 200hp (IO360-A3B6D) using the Skytec starter from Van's?

December 16, 2001 - December 24, 2001

RV-Archive.digest.vol-ma