RV-Archive.digest.vol-qk
January 19, 2005 - January 29, 2005
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Hasson" <hassonr(at)theriver.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Suspicious Aircraft Debris Pictures |
Thanks Will, my reply would not have been nearly as diplomatic as yours.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Couvillon
Subject: RV-List: Re: Suspicious Aircraft Debris Pictures
You're right, that certainly is off topic for an RV forum. I am sure that
there is some sort of conspiracy theory chat room out there that may be a
bit more receptive. As for the particular piece in question, who knows how
it came to be in such a condition with the rivet holes in tact...I am
thinking maybe it had something to do with the fact that plane it was
attached to was flown in to some of the thickest concrete walls ever made at
speeds approaching 600 mph! I was there when this happened...I saw the
plane and the gaping hole it left...I saw the injured and dying as they fled
from the pentagon...I personally saw the devastation this caused and I could
not be more offended by the extremists who not only perpetrated this
incident, but who now question whether or not this was one big government
plot to fool the world. I apologize if this post is too pointed, as an RV
builder I am sorry if you are offended. I just wanted to let you know that
there were some people (yes!
even RV builders out here) who lived through this and don't appreciate
where you were going with this post.
Just my 2 cents,
Will
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 44 Msgs - 01/18/05 |
Diffusers, pressure & cooling: Our long-departed friend, John Thorp (of
T-18 fame) wrote some good articles on cooling in Sport Aviation about 25
years ago. These will tell more about cooling than you want to know!
Even the big radials shape the cowling to recover pressure and then use
the pressure to force the air thru the cylinder fins. Earlier designs, like
from the 1920's put the cylinders right out in the high velocity airstream.
Cowling those cylinders both improved the cooling and greatly reduced drag. Note
the adjustable exit area (cowl flaps) on all these designs. This reduces the
cooling air consumption at cruise for a further reduction of drag.
Paul S. Petersen, RV6A (with son
Eric) nearing completion
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Passing fire codes for hangar homes |
Hi Jeff,
I would urge you to consult with a lawyer. Hopefully you used one when you
bought the lot to research the covenants. If not, get one ASAP.
While 2000 sq ft is large enough for an RV hangar, it is small by airpark
norms. I'd be concerned that the value of the lot and your future
house/hangar has declined if the largest hangar allowed is only 2000 sq ft.
Good luck.
Dennis Persyk Casa de Aero Airpark 68IS
6A N600DP sold
RV Web Page http://home.att.net/~dpersyk/rv6a.htm
> From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net>
> Subject: RV-List: Passing fire codes for hangar homes
>
>
> HELP. I purchased a lot at an airpark several months ago and just found
out the
> county has adopted a new fire code restricting the size of the hangar to
2000
> sq ft. I had planned on a 3000. Im wondering if anyone has dealt with
this
> and knows of a way around it. I believe its a fire code issue so maybe a
fire
> wall or sprinkler system would fit the bill. One of the subdivision
requirements
> is that the hangar must be attached to the house.
>
> tia
> Shemp/Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 150 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Passing fire codes for hangar homes |
A hanger has it's own occupancy class which should allow for larger sizes
before you have to sprinkle etc. The secret is, you will have to tell them
that you just store the airplane in it. No cars, no boats, no motor bikes,
and no maintenance.
Cross your fingers behind your back when you make all those promises and
when you get your occupancy permit, keep the door closed.......
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Edmonton Alberta |
I must appologies.
A few days back I posted a message asking to meet any RV builders in or
around the Edmonton area. I forgot to turn down my e-mail filter, so anyone
who might have replied did not get through. So here I am asking again, with
a promise that your e-mail will make it to me this time.
I will be in Edmonton, Alberta This coming weekend. I'm flying down from
Yellowknife and I would love to see any RVs in the area that are either
being built or already flying.
I can be reached at kevinsky18(at)hotmail.com
Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | richard dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Van's Manifold for Pressure Sensors |
Hi Listers,
FWIW
If you are using the Van's anodized aluminum manifold that is threaded
to accept the fuel and oil pressure sensors, you need to check it for
adequate grounding. Apparently, with the overall anodization, grounding
is not assured. In troubleshooting a non working fuel pressure gauge, I
finally determineed that the manifold had a 900 ohm series resistance to
ground. Connecting it to ground with a wire confirmed that. My final
solution was to place a star lockwasher between the flat washer on the
AN3 bolt holding it to the firewall and the manifold.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Turbo Tom" <turbotom(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | looking for - RV-Rocket steering link |
Has anyone ever posted the last know info about Terry Jantzi? I saw another
lister post looking for him, but didn't see any replies. I'm looking for a
couple of steering links [yes, for two planes]. I've tried e-mail and his
web-listed phone, but no joy.
TT
Atlanta GA
RV-8QB on its gear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Sneed <n242ds(at)cox.net> |
> Could someone tell me what specific unit I need to check my mag timing?
> I have a 360 with one electronic ignition and 1 mag. I borrowed one
> unit but the instructions were terrible and I think all it did was tell
> you if both mags are set at to the same advance, this will not work for
> me due to the electronic ignition. Brand name, or even a spruce part
> number would be great...
>
> Thanks a bunch,
>
> Jason
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Interesting aircraft-style starter on ebay |
I was browsing ebay and came across this starter for airboats. Why
airboats? Is it because of liability? It looks like the price is pretty good
for a
new starter.
Dan Hopper
Walton IN
RV-7A (Flying, well it was when the weather was a little warmer!)
_http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4520371044
&category=26442&sspagename=WDVW_
(http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4520371044&category=26442&sspagename=WDVW)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "james frierson" <tn3639(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Interesting aircraft-style starter on ebay |
I bought one of these starters and it's only been on for about 30hrs and so
far, so good. . I called the company and they sold me one for $150.00
staight up.
Scott
RV6-A Flying
>From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Interesting aircraft-style starter on ebay
>Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 18:40:08 EST
>
>
>I was browsing ebay and came across this starter for airboats. Why
>airboats? Is it because of liability? It looks like the price is pretty
>good for a
>new starter.
>
>Dan Hopper
>Walton IN
>RV-7A (Flying, well it was when the weather was a little warmer!)
>
>_http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4520371044
>&category=26442&sspagename=WDVW_
>(http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4520371044&category=26442&sspagename=WDVW)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Freeman <flyeyes(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: looking for - RV-Rocket steering link |
On Jan 19, 2005, at 5:04 PM, Turbo Tom wrote:
>
> Has anyone ever posted the last know info about Terry Jantzi? I saw
> another
> lister post looking for him, but didn't see any replies. I'm looking
> for a
> couple of steering links
I bought mine (a while ago) from Mark Frederick at Team Rocket. He may
have inventory or know how to reach Terry.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LARRY ADAMSON" <rvhi03(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin iQue 3600a |
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Jewell
Subject: RV-List: Garmin iQue 3600a
>Hey Gang!
>Garmin has entered the palm top gps flight information arena with this
product.
>http://www.garmin.com/products/iQue3600a
>Ideas and Opinions please
>Jim in Kelowna
I've been using a Garmin 195Map GPS for years, but much prefer the color moving
map in an RV9A I flew with a Bendix King panel mount.
I planned on a new Garmin 296 with color moving map, especially for it's terrain/obstacle
depiction & warning system. But thanks to the link & the fact that
a vertical GPS would be a better fit, I'm quite interested in seeing just what
this one will do in comparison to the 296, as it's hundreds cheaper.
As I like to fly in mountainous areas, the terrain mapping is #1 on my feature
list.
L.Adamson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Jurotich <mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon ramblings |
Skip the HSI, I need the heated pitiot with angle of attack for the
10A. Not currently on Dynon's priority list. Anyone else really want the
Dynon heated pitot?
Matthew M. Jurotich
NASA/Goddard Space Flight Center
Swales contractor to the
JWST ISIM Systems Engineer
m/c : 443
e-mail mail to:
phone : 301-286-5919
fax : 301-286-7021
JWST URL: <http://ngst1.gsfc.nasa.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "randall" <rv6n6r(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: looking for - RV-Rocket |
steering link)
Speaking of steering links, I have a pair of Brent Anderson's "Tail Lynx".
These are "traditional" in that they have one spring on each side. But
they're a far cry from those old screen-door things! Lots lighter, and
stronger, and more streamlined, and cleaner looking. The feel is a bit
stiffer, which only took me a short time to get used to. Brent is a
mechanical engineer by trade and I can testify that he tested the cr*p out
of them before putting on the market. They are sold through Van's catalog.
Disclaimer: I'd say this even if Brent weren't my hangar mate! :-)
Randall Henderson
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Newbie Nervousness Strikes again: Fluting |
Hi all
So step something says, straighten all the ribs using your handy-dandy
fluting pliers. I spent quite a while getting the ribs all straight and the flanges
bent to 90 degrees. In doing all that, the parts of the rib flanges where
the rivet holes attach to the skin and spars is all pretty flat. In between, it
looks pretty scalloped. Did I do this wrong? Is the skin supposed to be in
perfect contact with the entire rib? Somehow, this just doesn't look right to
me. I would think the skin should really lie flat on the whole surface, but
I am not sure how you accomplish that with ribs bent as they are. Guidance?
Regards,
Michael
RV8 Empennage
San Ramon, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie Nervousness Strikes again: Fluting |
Naw, it's supposed to have the waves in it, but the straight sections need
to be where the wing skin rivets will attach.
There should be a drawing-full size?- of a rib, showing where to flute and
not flute, as the wing skins are pre-punched with the rivet locations.
Scott in VAncouver
----- Original Message -----
From: <MLWynn(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Newbie Nervousness Strikes again: Fluting
>
> Hi all
>
> So step something says, straighten all the ribs using your handy-dandy
> fluting pliers. I spent quite a while getting the ribs all straight and
> the flanges
> bent to 90 degrees. In doing all that, the parts of the rib flanges where
> the rivet holes attach to the skin and spars is all pretty flat. In
> between, it
> looks pretty scalloped. Did I do this wrong? Is the skin supposed to be
> in
> perfect contact with the entire rib? Somehow, this just doesn't look
> right to
> me. I would think the skin should really lie flat on the whole surface,
> but
> I am not sure how you accomplish that with ribs bent as they are.
> Guidance?
>
> Regards,
>
> Michael
> RV8 Empennage
> San Ramon, CA
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie Nervousness Strikes again: Fluting |
If you have the sections where the rivets are flat and in contact with
the skin, that is all you can do and what you want. That is what
fluting is supposed to do.
The only way to do what you are envisioning would be to use a metal
shrinker to shrink the flanges a whole lot - you wouldn't get the plane
done before 2015 :-) .
If you think about how the ribs are made you can see that what you are
envisioning is basically impossible. Van's starts with a flat piece of
aluminum and bends the edges to form the flange. Obviously, the metal
making up the flange was longer on the edge than on the part where it is
connected to the rib. That extra metal has to go somewhere! The fluted
area "uses up" the extra length so the riveted sections will sit nice
and flat against the skin.
Dick Tasker
MLWynn(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>Hi all
>
>So step something says, straighten all the ribs using your handy-dandy
>fluting pliers. I spent quite a while getting the ribs all straight and the flanges
>bent to 90 degrees. In doing all that, the parts of the rib flanges where
>the rivet holes attach to the skin and spars is all pretty flat. In between,
it
>looks pretty scalloped. Did I do this wrong? Is the skin supposed to be in
>perfect contact with the entire rib? Somehow, this just doesn't look right to
>me. I would think the skin should really lie flat on the whole surface, but
>I am not sure how you accomplish that with ribs bent as they are. Guidance?
>
>Regards,
>
>Michael
>RV8 Empennage
>San Ramon, CA
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Trotter <ptrotter(at)acm.org> |
| Subject: | Of FLop Tubes and Fuel Senders |
I am about to build my fuel tanks and it is time to decide on whether to use
flop tubes or fixed fuel pickups and whether to use float or capacitive fuel
senders. I am interested in anyone's comments these topics.
I expect it is unlikely that I will do any aerobatics beyond simple positive
G maneuvers so it probably doesn't make sense to put in flop tubes. Also,
for any maneuvers that really require a flop tube, I would need an inverted
oil system as well, which I am not planning on putting in. On the other
hand, I can't see any real downside to flop tubes as they may give me
flexibility in the future.
With respect to fuel senders, I am leaning toward capacitive, simply because
there are no moving parts. I have heard, though, that some people have had
trouble calibrating them. They do allow me to put in flop tubes without
relocating the float to a different location. Also, if problems arise with
capacitive senders, it is possible to install float senders after the fact
if necessary. Of course float senders are much easier to find gauges that
they work with.
I suppose I should just keep it simple and use the tried and true fixed fuel
pickup with float senders, but I hate to do something that might limit me in
the future.
Any comments would be appreciated.
__________________
Paul Trotter
RV-8 82080 Wing Kit
N801PT (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Newbie Nervousness Strikes again: Fluting |
Thanks, Dick
That does make pretty good sense. It just seemed a little wavier than I
thought it ought to be.
Regards,
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie Nervousness Strikes again: Fluting |
Mike
The web of the rib should lie flat when laid on a table. The fluting is used to
remove any "banana" in the web of the rib.
Charlie Kuss
---- MLWynn(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi all
>
> So step something says, straighten all the ribs using your handy-dandy
> fluting pliers. I spent quite a while getting the ribs all straight and the
flanges
> bent to 90 degrees. In doing all that, the parts of the rib flanges where
> the rivet holes attach to the skin and spars is all pretty flat. In between,
it
> looks pretty scalloped. Did I do this wrong? Is the skin supposed to be in
> perfect contact with the entire rib? Somehow, this just doesn't look right to
> me. I would think the skin should really lie flat on the whole surface, but
> I am not sure how you accomplish that with ribs bent as they are. Guidance?
>
> Regards,
>
> Michael
> RV8 Empennage
> San Ramon, CA
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Myers <jmyers(at)powernet.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon ramblings |
I am in the same boat Matt. I hope it IS on their priority list.
John
At 08:41 PM 1/19/2005, you wrote:
>
>Skip the HSI, I need the heated pitiot with angle of attack for the
>10A. Not currently on Dynon's priority list. Anyone else really want the
>Dynon heated pitot?
>
>Matthew M. Jurotich
>
>NASA/Goddard Space Flight Center
>Swales contractor to the
>JWST ISIM Systems Engineer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Bartrim" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
Hi Dwight;
Hang in there a little longer. I was lucky enough to receive one of their
first heated AOA probes. I haven't flown in icing conditions and of coarse I
hope I never do, but I periodically check the probe for proper heating on
the ground and so far it has worked well (uncomfortable to hold on to it).
The AOA works great as well. I also have the PSS AOA system installed and I
find that the Dynon AOA system tracks it very closely.
I recently received a service bulletin from Dynon stating that their
reliability testing has shown a low, but unacceptable failure rate of the
heating circuitry. They request that it be treated as a non-heated pitot and
don't recommend it's use in IMC. They are working on a solution and have
offered a full refund if desired or they will ship replacements as soon as
this is issue is resolved.
My dealings with them to date have been extremely positive. They do their
best to not ship a product until it's ready for market, as they want
satisfied, if impatient customers. One only has to read the archives to see
what happens when another company delivers before the product is ready. I
once had to return my Dynon for repair due to solely my own error (static
discharge while installing with butane soldering iron... non-grounded tip).
I knew better and it shouldn't have happened but even though I was up front
and admitted fault, they didn't care and repaired it free of charge with
exactly 1 week turn around time from the day I removed it from my plane to
the day I reinstalled it... and I live in Canada!
I am a very satisfied customer and encourage any others that are getting
impatient to just hang in there a little longer... It's a great product and
worth the wait!
Todd Bartrim
RV9Endurance
13B Turbo Rotary
C-FSTB
"The world will always have a place for those that bring hard
work and determination to the things they do."
I'm waiting to close up one of my wings because I'd like to plumb the
pitot while things are wide open. I intend to install a Dynon and want
to use *their* pitot so I can get the *their* AOA functionality. I'm
starting to think I made a mistake counting on this particular product
to come to market in a reasonable time though. Very frustrating.
-- Dwight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Swirl Scratches in Plexi |
Absolutely. Try Scratch-Off. There was a write-up in the RVator a few
issues ago. It's similar in concept to Micro-mesh, but uses
progresively finer liquid compounds and foam polishing wheels (in a
drill) Very good stuff. Van's carries it now, as does AC$ and others.
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1106216018-444-258&browse=airframe&product=scratch-off
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Richmond, KY i39 RV flyin |
Just a heads up gang, this years date is set as February 26th. weather
permitting. This is what was in the RVator last year. I'll keep everyone
informed.
WOW, what can I say? 86+ RVs and over 107 total aircraft this past February
28th at i39 Richmond, KY.
http://members16.clubphoto.com/rick742624/guest.phtml
Big thanks to Rick Schwandt for the pictures.
What started out as an informal UFO (Ultimate Fly Out) by the Ohio Valley
RVators to my shop, turned into a great kickoff for this years fly-in
season. As most on the RV lists are aware, I moved the event from my shop
to the airport two weeks prior to the event. At that time, I made some
phone calls to round up door prizes. The weather forecast for the entire
east coast promised beautiful weather, this time we were not disappointed.
The first arrival was from the Michigan, Indiana border and was at 7:40AM.
By this time the local EAA chapter had coffee and free donuts. Shortly
thereafter, the pattern was full of RVs coming from all directions. It was
a continuous dialogue of flight of four inbound with traffic in sight,
flight of two following flight of two. Give credit to the pilots, at no
time did I ever witness anything remotely compromising. I took care of
parking RVs on the ramp until it filled. The ramp was double stacked,
leaving taxi space between rows. My youngest son and a friend took care of
directing arrivals on the taxiway where pilots were allowed to park there
own airplanes as they wished. The taxiway is nearly 1500 long. We had RVs
and certified, parked wingtip to wingtip nearly to the end of the taxiway.
By the way, we tried to only allow RVs onto the ramp. Reserve parking was
saved for TeamRV and the Ohio Valley RVators as they promised to put on
three different formation flights. TeamRV, led by Mike Stewart arrived from
Atlanta with a flight of 9, as did Ohio Valley, led by Rick Gray. Ohio
Valley had either 17 or 18 arrivals. Indy Wing topped the list with 20 RVs
which included 2 fire breathing Super 8s. 12 represented the TN VALLEY
BUILDER GROUP; the Palmetto Wing had 3 along with 3 from SERV. I believe
the group from Pontiac, MI made it in along with a two from Florida, west
from MO and from north east of DC. At noon I took a little break and
started counting airplanes. A couple RVs had already left by then so I
added them to the count. At noon we had 86 RVs and 107 total aircraft for
the fly-in. More RVs arrived after noon but I did not try and keep count,
as I was busy with lunch, formation flying and the door prizes. I also
squeezed in a little shopping time walking and looking at RVs.
After a lunch of hamburgers, hotdogs and free Hooters wings TeamRV, as a
flight 5 and Ohio Valley, as a flight of 5 put on individual formation
flight demonstrations, which would make the most harden envious. Icing on
the cake came form a final 8 ship formation showcase as a joint formation
flight demonstration made up of both teams. A reporter and photographer went
up with TeamRV. Stunning photographs now grace the front page of the local
Sunday paper.
http://www.richmondregister.com/articles/2004/02/29/news/news01.txt
Door prizes were given out from the following supporters: Van's Aircraft,
Builders Bookstore, Control Vision AnyWhere Map, EZ Pilot Auto Pilot,
engalt.com/aviation.htm fabulous post light system, Experimentalair.com CAD
designed and water jet cut instrument panel, Kitlog Pro, Grand Rapids,
Trutrack autopilot discounts from aircraftextras.com, Avery and Cleaveland.
Thanks to all who attended and yes, same time next year!!
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Passing fire codes for hangar homes |
Hi Dennis,
I live at an airpark in Chandler AZ (P19). We have 65 lots, 25 are semi custom
homes from 2100 to 3000 sq ft. The hangars are all 1800 square feet. This is large
enough to put two planes in. One guy has a Husky and an A36. Another a Muskateer
and a Citabria. On the custom side there are hangars from 2000 sq ft to
one that is 6500 ft.
Here there is only one factor deciding hangar size (on the custom homes), Ratio
of hangar to home size. Then, anything over 3000 sq ft must have fire sprinklers.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Newbie Nervousness Strikes again: Fluting |
Sounds like you did it right to me.
>
>Hi all
>
>So step something says, straighten all the ribs using your handy-dandy
>fluting pliers. I spent quite a while getting the ribs all straight and
>the flanges
>bent to 90 degrees. In doing all that, the parts of the rib flanges where
>the rivet holes attach to the skin and spars is all pretty flat. In
>between, it
>looks pretty scalloped. Did I do this wrong? Is the skin supposed to be in
>perfect contact with the entire rib? Somehow, this just doesn't look
>right to
>me. I would think the skin should really lie flat on the whole surface, but
>I am not sure how you accomplish that with ribs bent as they are. Guidance?
>
>Regards,
>
>Michael
>RV8 Empennage
>San Ramon, CA
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Of FLop Tubes and Fuel Senders |
Paul, unless you intend to do extended inverted flight, I would recommend
dropping the flop tube. I had a forced landing in part- due to a flop tube
which came unscrewed from its fitting after 180 hours of flight leaving the
last 3 1/2 gallons in the bottom of the tank unavailable. The other part
contributing to the force landing was my erroneous convincing myself the
problem was other than fuel starvation (I mean after all I had 3 gallons
remaining in that tank) and not switch to my other tank. Fortunately, after
a 12 miles glide I touched down uneventfully on the 4000 ft tarmac at
Winchester, TN.
So unless you are going inverted oil/fuel system and intend something other
than "Gentleman" aerobatics, I would ditch the flop tube. Also I think it
easier to place the fuel quantity sender..
Just my personal opinion of course
Ed Anderson
Matthews, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Trotter" <ptrotter(at)acm.org>
Subject: RV-List: Of FLop Tubes and Fuel Senders
>
> I am about to build my fuel tanks and it is time to decide on whether to
use
> flop tubes or fixed fuel pickups and whether to use float or capacitive
fuel
> senders. I am interested in anyone's comments these topics.
>
> I expect it is unlikely that I will do any aerobatics beyond simple
positive
> G maneuvers so it probably doesn't make sense to put in flop tubes. Also,
> for any maneuvers that really require a flop tube, I would need an
inverted
> oil system as well, which I am not planning on putting in. On the other
> hand, I can't see any real downside to flop tubes as they may give me
> flexibility in the future.
>
> With respect to fuel senders, I am leaning toward capacitive, simply
because
> there are no moving parts. I have heard, though, that some people have had
> trouble calibrating them. They do allow me to put in flop tubes without
> relocating the float to a different location. Also, if problems arise with
> capacitive senders, it is possible to install float senders after the fact
> if necessary. Of course float senders are much easier to find gauges that
> they work with.
>
> I suppose I should just keep it simple and use the tried and true fixed
fuel
> pickup with float senders, but I hate to do something that might limit me
in
> the future.
>
> Any comments would be appreciated.
> __________________
> Paul Trotter
> RV-8 82080 Wing Kit
> N801PT (Reserved)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <ollie-6a(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Passing fire codes for hangar homes |
Don't you all just love it when someone gives instruction on some thing they
are not part of. I live on an airpark in Fl that is in 2 counties, however
the rules are the same in both. If the hanger is attached to the house the
max is 2000 sq. ft.unless you put in the fire protection of a commercial
building which would probably cost as much as the home. On our airpark the
hanger can be separate from the house and then it can be larger. I have a
neighbor and friend that has built some of the homes here and believe me if
there was a way around it he would know.
We did have one person that built an attached hanger that was larger but
during construction a portioned solid wall was built across the rear to make
the hanger part 2000 sq ft. I guess he called the part behind the partion
storage etc.
Note: He has since torn down the wall.
Ollie 6A Airpark Central Fl.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne @ Aircraft Engravers" <wayne(at)engravers.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Passing fire codes for hangar homes
>
>
> To Jeff,
>
> First, who are "they"
> Secondly, have whomever is drawing up your plans to label it "HANGAR"
>
> TBC
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Passing fire codes for hangar homes
>
>
>>
>>
>> The problem is that they are calling it a garage, which dictates the max
>> sq
>> ftage.
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18(at)hotmail.com>
>> To:
>> Subject: RE: RV-List: Passing fire codes for hangar homes
>>
>>
>>>
>>>>>>HELP. I purchased a lot at an airpark several months ago and just
>>>>>>found
>>>>>>out the county has adopted a new fire code restricting the size of the
>>>>>>hangar to 2000 sq ft. I had planned on a 3000. Im wondering if
>>>>>>anyone
>>>>>>has dealt with this and knows of a way around it. I believe its a
>>>>>>fire
>>>>>>code issue so maybe a fire wall or sprinkler system would fit the
>>>>>>bill.
>>>>>>One of the subdivision requirements is that the hangar must be
>>>>>>attached
>>>>>>to the house.
>>>
>>>
>>> Don't call it a hanger, Call it a 4 car garage with a large single
>>> opening
>>> door. . . .
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Of FLop Tubes and Fuel Senders |
One downside to flop tubes over fixed pickups is an increase in unusable fuel.
The fixed pickup can be placed right near the bottom inboard corner where a flop
tube would get jammed & refuse to flop. Also, compare the reliability/longevity
of the two. Nothing major, but definitely different.
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Turbo Tom" <turbotom(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | steering link follow up report |
>>I'm looking
>> for a
>> couple of steering links
TT
>
> I bought mine (a while ago) from Mark Frederick at Team Rocket. He may
> have inventory or know how to reach Terry.
>
Hey Listers!
Thanks for all the suggestions. Mark says he thinks Terry is out of the
aviation business, but he will try to contact him. I will post any further
information.
TT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Huft <rv8(at)lazy8.net> |
"rv-list(at)matronics.com"
Listers -
I have put my LASAR system on ebay. So far, there have been no bids, so
looks like someone will get it cheap. I would rather have a fellow
lister get the bargain.
Item number 4520429755
John Huft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Of FLop Tubes and Fuel Senders |
Data point...my RV-7 has 0.3 gallons unusable in both tanks with flop tubes
(as per two tests that ran a tank dry in flight). I don't consider 0.3
gallons an "increase" over what other builders with standard pickup tubes
have reported. Your mileage may vary.
I'm not necessarily encouraging the use of flop tubes, just want to disspell
any rumors that flop tubes always decrease usable fuel.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Of FLop Tubes and Fuel Senders
>
> One downside to flop tubes over fixed pickups is an increase in unusable
fuel. The fixed pickup can be placed right near the bottom inboard corner
where a flop tube would get jammed & refuse to flop. Also, compare the
reliability/longevity of the two. Nothing major, but definitely different.
>
> Dave Reel - RV8A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe & Jan Connell" <jconnell(at)rconnect.com> |
| Subject: | Tropic Aero in Ft. Lauderdale -- Excellent business relationship |
Fellow builders:
At the advice of a fellow RV builder, I ordered a transponder
and intercom from Tropic Aero in Fort Lauderdale, FL. In my
haste, I unintentionally ordered a Garmin SL-70R instead of
the SL-70. After realizing my mistake, I returned the SL-70R
and ordered another transponder.
Tropic Aero's owner, Jerry Corbone, personally waived the
re-stocking fee, despite the fact it had been a one-time special
order from Garmin. Jerry was gracious in accommodating my
naivety. It's refreshing to do business with a company like Tropic Aero.
(I have no affiliation or financial relationship with Tropic Aero.)
Joe Connell
Stewartville, MN
RV-9A N95JJ Instrument Panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Passing fire codes for hangar homes |
| From: | "Keck, David" <david.keck(at)amd.com> |
Hey Dennis,
I live at an airpark in Texas and most hangars at our airpark are between 1600
and 2000 sq feet. Plenty big enough for one plane and a nice shop.
And you may want to figure out your tax obligation per square foot in your area.
Turns out my 2000 sq foot attached hangar costs me nearly $150/month in taxes.
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Darwin N. Barrie
Subject: Re: RV-List: Passing fire codes for hangar homes
Hi Dennis,
I live at an airpark in Chandler AZ (P19). We have 65 lots, 25 are semi custom
homes from 2100 to 3000 sq ft. The hangars are all 1800 square feet. This is large
enough to put two planes in. One guy has a Husky and an A36. Another a Muskateer
and a Citabria. On the custom side there are hangars from 2000 sq ft to
one that is 6500 ft.
Here there is only one factor deciding hangar size (on the custom homes), Ratio
of hangar to home size. Then, anything over 3000 sq ft must have fire sprinklers.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob 1" <rv3a.1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ed Sterba Prop |
A wood prop absorbs a lot of vibration
> and smooths things out. For the money and looks I like wood.
>
> Red Milner
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Personal choices and compromises abound.
For looks, I like wood too, but....
Not good in rain.
Not good at smoothing out 4 cyl 4-stroke power pulses, or achieving the
smoothest and most reliable low idle. Heavier blades have the advantage for
these flywheel duties.
I currently use a Sensenich fixed metal prop on my 0-320 RV-3. However, I've
been very satisfied using a wood prop with a Mark Landol 12 lb circular
weight mated to a standard Lycoming flywheel.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ed Sterba Prop |
If you want all out best performance its hard to beat metal.
>
>A wood prop absorbs a lot of vibration
> > and smooths things out. For the money and looks I like wood.
> >
> > Red Milner
>
>++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>
>Personal choices and compromises abound.
>
>For looks, I like wood too, but....
>
>Not good in rain.
>Not good at smoothing out 4 cyl 4-stroke power pulses, or achieving the
>smoothest and most reliable low idle. Heavier blades have the advantage for
>these flywheel duties.
>
>I currently use a Sensenich fixed metal prop on my 0-320 RV-3. However, I've
>been very satisfied using a wood prop with a Mark Landol 12 lb circular
>weight mated to a standard Lycoming flywheel.
>
>
>Bob
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Bergh" <dbergh(at)starband.net> |
| Subject: | wing skin overlap |
Hello all,
I am trying to get my punch list of items done before final riveting of my RV-6
wing skins. I am trying to decide if I am supposed to trim overlapping wing
skins at the trailing edge in the flap area on both top and bottom or just the
bottom where the flap brace attaches? As far as I can tell on the plans it only
shows the bottom skins being trimmed but i seem to recall seeing comments
from some who had done top and bottom. Comments. Also where did you place the
holes for the wiring conduit and what size holes (conduit)?
Dave Bergh
Mtn Home, ID
RV-6 Slowwwww build!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Nellis <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wing skin overlap |
I documented the modifications you described back in 2001. Cutting a
small notch (about 1") worked great. You can see it here.
http://bmnellis.com/WingSkinning4.htm
Mike Nellis
Austin, TX
CMRA #32 Honda RC51
'97 YZF1000
'00 YZ426F
'47 Stinson 108-2; RV6 (Fuselage)
http://bmnellis.com
>
>Hello all,
>I am trying to get my punch list of items done before final riveting of my RV-6
wing skins. I am trying to decide if I am supposed to trim overlapping wing
skins at the trailing edge in the flap area on both top and bottom or just the
bottom where the flap brace attaches? As far as I can tell on the plans it
only shows the bottom skins being trimmed but i seem to recall seeing comments
from some who had done top and bottom. Comments. Also where did you place the
holes for the wiring conduit and what size holes (conduit)?
>Dave Bergh
>Mtn Home, ID
>RV-6 Slowwwww build!
>
>
>
>
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Swirl Scratches in Plexi |
> >
> Scratches can be deeper than they appear! Micro-mesh is the
> way to go
> ..... more expensive but less labor intensive. Here there is no
> substitute for the strong-arm method. You just can't hurry it.
I used Micro Mesh on some windscreen scratches, probably put in about 12
hours using the system before I gave up. I don't doubt that a good outcome
was possible, it just was taking an unreasonable amount of time and effort.
Then, I got a Scratch-Off kit. Piece of cake, whole thing fixed up in an
hour or less. The foam pads for use on a drill are the only way to go.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 569 hours
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie Nervousness Strikes again: Fluting |
You are right, the ribs should contact the skin in a perfect flat
togetherness when clecoed together except where your little flutes are. If
it is not, look at which way it needs to be bent and bend it a little. 90
degrees is right. I did not have to do much work in making 90 degree bends
as mine were pretty much on the mark. My ribs did not lay flat when laid on
a table top. The flutes get rid of this curl/bend caused by the
manufacturer's 90 degree bend in the curved edge of the rib. You might want
to get a local EAA person to look at yours or borrow/buy an Orendorff (sp)
building video if this explanation does not help.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
Evansville, Indiana (just north of western Kentucky)
> >
> >Hi all
> >
> >So step something says, straighten all the ribs using your handy-dandy
> >fluting pliers. I spent quite a while getting the ribs all straight and
> >the flanges
> >bent to 90 degrees. In doing all that, the parts of the rib flanges
where
> >the rivet holes attach to the skin and spars is all pretty flat. In
> >between, it
> >looks pretty scalloped. Did I do this wrong? Is the skin supposed to be
in
> >perfect contact with the entire rib? Somehow, this just doesn't look
> >right to
> >me. I would think the skin should really lie flat on the whole surface,
but
> >I am not sure how you accomplish that with ribs bent as they are.
Guidance?
> >
> >Regards,
> >
> >Michael
> >RV8 Empennage
> >San Ramon, CA
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)excelgeo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wing skin overlap |
Mike Nellis posted some good pictures of what the overlap looks like
once the trimming is done. I think I trimmed both top and bottom but
there is really no need to trim the bottom. The skin is trimmed on the
top mainly for cosmetic reasons.
GZ
Dave Bergh wrote:
>
> Hello all,
> I am trying to get my punch list of items done before final riveting of my RV-6
wing skins. I am trying to decide if I am supposed to trim overlapping wing
skins at the trailing edge in the flap area on both top and bottom or just the
bottom where the flap brace attaches? As far as I can tell on the plans it
only shows the bottom skins being trimmed but i seem to recall seeing comments
from some who had done top and bottom. Comments. Also where did you place the
holes for the wiring conduit and what size holes (conduit)?
> Dave Bergh
> Mtn Home, ID
> RV-6 Slowwwww build!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Bergh" <dbergh(at)starband.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wing skin overlap |
Thanks to all who cleared this up for me. In looking deeper I found that
the 'SK 46' drawing I got with the wing kit contradicts the same sketch that
was in my set of preview plans. The moral of the story- look at both sets
of sketches when in doubt. Lesson learned!
Dave Bergh
RV-6 Wings
Mountain Home, ID
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Zilik" <zilik(at)excelgeo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: wing skin overlap
>
> Mike Nellis posted some good pictures of what the overlap looks like
> once the trimming is done. I think I trimmed both top and bottom but
> there is really no need to trim the bottom. The skin is trimmed on the
> top mainly for cosmetic reasons.
>
> GZ
>
> Dave Bergh wrote:
> >
> > Hello all,
> > I am trying to get my punch list of items done before final riveting of
my RV-6 wing skins. I am trying to decide if I am supposed to trim
overlapping wing skins at the trailing edge in the flap area on both top and
bottom or just the bottom where the flap brace attaches? As far as I can
tell on the plans it only shows the bottom skins being trimmed but i seem to
recall seeing comments from some who had done top and bottom. Comments.
Also where did you place the holes for the wiring conduit and what size
holes (conduit)?
> > Dave Bergh
> > Mtn Home, ID
> > RV-6 Slowwwww build!
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SCOTT SPENCER <aerokinetic(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Gascolators don't have to be mounted forward of the firewall... I'n fact many claim
that this is unsafe (including me) -especially when they are mounted low
and could impact the ground in a crash or nose-over. Having firesleeved hoses
up there is one thing, and there's no way around it -but why put a little container
of fuel up there when you don't have to? There is also more heat ahead of
the firewall, which makes the gascolator in such mounting locations a sort of
fuel heater -unless there's a blast tube directed at it. Some manufacturers
mount them in the belly... I'm thinking for the moment of Piper Commanches and
Twin Commanches... and my RV-4 (where it's mounted in the area adjacent to the
fuel selector and has a drain out the belly via a short hose and flush drain
-actually it hangs right from the fuel selector).
At any rate what you have is a fuel filter essentially -but one with a bowl that
will catch water and other heavy stuff and hold it for future draining from
the system -a good idea if you ask me.... -but not to hang down low from the
firewall.
Common sense says that it should be mounted at the lowest possible point in the
system so that all the water and other heavies end up in it and not trapped in
a low point at some hose or line (read the posts on freezing fuel lines).
My fuel lines slope up evenly to the selector from the tanks and any water should
settle to either the tank sump or the gascolator. Ahead of the gascolator the
lines slope up to the engine with no low points along the way -which is helped
even more by on the ground when the plane is sitting on it's tail. I put a
lot of thought into it when I designed the install and I've never had a problem.
I'm confident all the water in my fuel system -if there ever is any... is
in one of three sumps...
My 2 American cents worth...
Scott
N4ZW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob J <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon ramblings |
Hi Todd,
Have you done any sort of detailed testing to see what the actual
differences are between the PSS AOA and the Dynon? I would be
interested in seeing what indicated differences there are during stall
at more than 1G, of if the Dynon will show changes in AOA during gusty
conditions.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
> The AOA works great as well. I also have the PSS AOA system installed and I
> find that the Dynon AOA system tracks it very closely.
> Todd Bartrim
>
> RV9Endurance
> 13B Turbo Rotary
> C-FSTB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon ramblings |
And also what about flaps-up flaps-down differences? The PSS units have a
switch that takes that provides that info the the brain, and you do a
calibration with and without flaps.
Randy Lervold
RV-3B, fuselage
From: "Bob J" <rocketbob(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon ramblings
>
> Hi Todd,
>
> Have you done any sort of detailed testing to see what the actual
> differences are between the PSS AOA and the Dynon? I would be
> interested in seeing what indicated differences there are during stall
> at more than 1G, of if the Dynon will show changes in AOA during gusty
> conditions.
>
> Regards,
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 flying F1 under const.
>
>
wrote:
>
> > The AOA works great as well. I also have the PSS AOA system installed
and I
> > find that the Dynon AOA system tracks it very closely.
> > Todd Bartrim
> >
> > RV9Endurance
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Electric flaps on an RV4 |
Does anyone have any pictures of the conversion to Van's electric flaps on
an RV4? Torn rotor cuff and getting wider makes this sound like something I
would like to do. Any others with comments to this conversion would be
appreciated.
Thanks........
Pat Long
PGLong(at)aol.com
N120PL
RV4
Bay City, Michigan
3CM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net> |
For those with far more experience out there ...
Question: What are the Lycoming/Air Flow Performance fuel injection
requirements?
What are the GPH flow requirements
What is the pressure output requirement for a FI pump?
There are many Holley pumps on eBay disclaiming their use with fuel
injection ...
There are a few Weldon pumps as well, some costing nearly as much as AFP ...
Is there a cost effective and safe way to provide needed fuel supply using
AFP throttle body?
Trying to put together a shopping list ...
Thanks
Jerry Grimmonpre
7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Electric flaps on an RV4 |
| From: | smoothweasel(at)juno.com |
> an RV4? Torn rotor cuff and getting wider makes this sound like
> something I
> would like to do. Any others with comments to this conversion would
> be
> appreciated.
> Thanks........
>
Pat look in the archives. You will see a lot of dicuthion on this issue.
Personaly I love my electric flaps and have had no problem with them but
you will find that some have a different oppinion.
Weasel -4 (125hr for sale)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric flaps on an RV4 |
I converted from electric flaps back to manual. But my shoulder works OK so going
to manual wasn't an issue. I liked my electric flaps but I had problems with
the motors. The first motor stopped working. They told me to clean the motor
which I tried and destroyed. My fault. I bought a new motor and installed
it. It worked fine for about a month and then it started smoking! Last thing
I want under my but is a hot motor. That was the last straw. I ripped it
all out and went manual.
That being said there are quite a few RV-4's flying with no problems with their
flap motors. That's just my experience.
PGLong(at)aol.com wrote:
Does anyone have any pictures of the conversion to Van's electric flaps on
an RV4? Torn rotor cuff and getting wider makes this sound like something I
would like to do. Any others with comments to this conversion would be
appreciated.
Thanks........
Pat Long
PGLong(at)aol.com
N120PL
RV4
Bay City, Michigan
3CM
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Injection |
Lycoming specifies a minimum boost pump pressure of 14
psi at max fuel flow, and a maximum of 35 psi for the
boost pump. The boost pump for an IO-360 should be
capable of at least 18-20 GPM for an IO-360.
One thing to keep in mind about the Airflow
performance pump package, as purchased from Van's: It
includes the fuel pump, bypass check valve, and
pressure relief valve, all assembled together. It
also includes a fuel filter, and mounting hardware for
the pump and filter. Keep in mind that you will need
all of these items for other pump setups. In my
opinion, all of these items make the Van's airflow
performance pump package not such a bad deal after
all, and you know that it will work.
Skylor
RV-8 QB Under Construction
--- Jerry Grimmonpre wrote:
>
>
> For those with far more experience out there ...
>
> Question: What are the Lycoming/Air Flow
> Performance fuel injection
> requirements?
>
> What are the GPH flow requirements
>
> What is the pressure output requirement for a FI
> pump?
>
> There are many Holley pumps on eBay disclaiming
> their use with fuel
> injection ...
>
> There are a few Weldon pumps as well, some costing
> nearly as much as AFP ...
>
> Is there a cost effective and safe way to provide
> needed fuel supply using
> AFP throttle body?
> Trying to put together a shopping list ...
>
> Thanks
> Jerry Grimmonpre
> 7A
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://my.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Injection |
Oops... I meant to say 20 GPH, not GPM!
--- Skylor Piper wrote:
>
>
> Lycoming specifies a minimum boost pump pressure of
> 14
> psi at max fuel flow, and a maximum of 35 psi for
> the
> boost pump. The boost pump for an IO-360 should be
> capable of at least 18-20 GPM for an IO-360.
>
> One thing to keep in mind about the Airflow
> performance pump package, as purchased from Van's:
> It
> includes the fuel pump, bypass check valve, and
> pressure relief valve, all assembled together. It
> also includes a fuel filter, and mounting hardware
> for
> the pump and filter. Keep in mind that you will
> need
> all of these items for other pump setups. In my
> opinion, all of these items make the Van's airflow
> performance pump package not such a bad deal after
> all, and you know that it will work.
>
> Skylor
> RV-8 QB Under Construction
>
>
> --- Jerry Grimmonpre wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > For those with far more experience out there ...
> >
> > Question: What are the Lycoming/Air Flow
> > Performance fuel injection
> > requirements?
> >
> > What are the GPH flow requirements
> >
> > What is the pressure output requirement for a FI
> > pump?
> >
> > There are many Holley pumps on eBay disclaiming
> > their use with fuel
> > injection ...
> >
> > There are a few Weldon pumps as well, some costing
> > nearly as much as AFP ...
> >
> > Is there a cost effective and safe way to provide
> > needed fuel supply using
> > AFP throttle body?
> > Trying to put together a shopping list ...
> >
> > Thanks
> > Jerry Grimmonpre
> > 7A
> >
> >
> >
> > Contributions
> > any other
> > Forums.
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> http://my.yahoo.com
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Injection |
I would not even think of looking at a pump that puts out less than 25 GPH
minimum. By the way, I have also looked in this direction and stayed with
the AFP pump assy.
>
>Lycoming specifies a minimum boost pump pressure of 14
>psi at max fuel flow, and a maximum of 35 psi for the
>boost pump. The boost pump for an IO-360 should be
>capable of at least 18-20 GPM for an IO-360.
>
>One thing to keep in mind about the Airflow
>performance pump package, as purchased from Van's: It
>includes the fuel pump, bypass check valve, and
>pressure relief valve, all assembled together. It
>also includes a fuel filter, and mounting hardware for
>the pump and filter. Keep in mind that you will need
>all of these items for other pump setups. In my
>opinion, all of these items make the Van's airflow
>performance pump package not such a bad deal after
>all, and you know that it will work.
>
>Skylor
>RV-8 QB Under Construction
>
>
>--- Jerry Grimmonpre wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > For those with far more experience out there ...
> >
> > Question: What are the Lycoming/Air Flow
> > Performance fuel injection
> > requirements?
> >
> > What are the GPH flow requirements
> >
> > What is the pressure output requirement for a FI
> > pump?
> >
> > There are many Holley pumps on eBay disclaiming
> > their use with fuel
> > injection ...
> >
> > There are a few Weldon pumps as well, some costing
> > nearly as much as AFP ...
> >
> > Is there a cost effective and safe way to provide
> > needed fuel supply using
> > AFP throttle body?
> > Trying to put together a shopping list ...
> >
> > Thanks
> > Jerry Grimmonpre
> > 7A
> >
> >
> >
> > Contributions
> > any other
> > Forums.
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>__________________________________
>http://my.yahoo.com
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
I think Skylor might have meant 18-20 "GPH" (vs "GPM") in message below.
1200 gallons per hour might be a bit much. {:-)
James
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Skylor Piper
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Injection
Lycoming specifies a minimum boost pump pressure of 14
psi at max fuel flow, and a maximum of 35 psi for the
boost pump. The boost pump for an IO-360 should be
capable of at least 18-20 GPM for an IO-360.
One thing to keep in mind about the Airflow
performance pump package, as purchased from Van's: It
includes the fuel pump, bypass check valve, and
pressure relief valve, all assembled together. It
also includes a fuel filter, and mounting hardware for
the pump and filter. Keep in mind that you will need
all of these items for other pump setups. In my
opinion, all of these items make the Van's airflow
performance pump package not such a bad deal after
all, and you know that it will work.
Skylor
RV-8 QB Under Construction
--- Jerry Grimmonpre wrote:
>
>
> For those with far more experience out there ...
>
> Question: What are the Lycoming/Air Flow
> Performance fuel injection
> requirements?
>
> What are the GPH flow requirements
>
> What is the pressure output requirement for a FI
> pump?
>
> There are many Holley pumps on eBay disclaiming
> their use with fuel
> injection ...
>
> There are a few Weldon pumps as well, some costing
> nearly as much as AFP ...
>
> Is there a cost effective and safe way to provide
> needed fuel supply using
> AFP throttle body?
> Trying to put together a shopping list ...
>
> Thanks
> Jerry Grimmonpre
> 7A
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://my.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
No problem, Skylor.
There is a message somewhere out there from me mentioning that that is what
you probably meant. Gotta be careful on this list ... people actually READ
the stuff. {:-)
James
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Skylor Piper
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Injection
Oops... I meant to say 20 GPH, not GPM!
--- Skylor Piper wrote:
>
>
> Lycoming specifies a minimum boost pump pressure of
> 14
> psi at max fuel flow, and a maximum of 35 psi for
> the
> boost pump. The boost pump for an IO-360 should be
> capable of at least 18-20 GPM for an IO-360.
>
> One thing to keep in mind about the Airflow
> performance pump package, as purchased from Van's:
> It
> includes the fuel pump, bypass check valve, and
> pressure relief valve, all assembled together. It
> also includes a fuel filter, and mounting hardware
> for
> the pump and filter. Keep in mind that you will
> need
> all of these items for other pump setups. In my
> opinion, all of these items make the Van's airflow
> performance pump package not such a bad deal after
> all, and you know that it will work.
>
> Skylor
> RV-8 QB Under Construction
>
>
> --- Jerry Grimmonpre wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > For those with far more experience out there ...
> >
> > Question: What are the Lycoming/Air Flow
> > Performance fuel injection
> > requirements?
> >
> > What are the GPH flow requirements
> >
> > What is the pressure output requirement for a FI
> > pump?
> >
> > There are many Holley pumps on eBay disclaiming
> > their use with fuel
> > injection ...
> >
> > There are a few Weldon pumps as well, some costing
> > nearly as much as AFP ...
> >
> > Is there a cost effective and safe way to provide
> > needed fuel supply using
> > AFP throttle body?
> > Trying to put together a shopping list ...
> >
> > Thanks
> > Jerry Grimmonpre
> > 7A
> >
> >
> >
> > Contributions
> > any other
> > Forums.
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> http://my.yahoo.com
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Rion Bourgeois" <rion(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Injection |
Jerry: The Airflow Performance high pressure fuel pump for Lycoming fuel
injected engines is priced at $375 in Van's 2004 catalog. The certified
Weldon high pressure pump for those engines is $595 in the 2003-2004
Aircraft Spruce catalog, page 235. I have the Weldon pump in my RV-4 becaue
it is more compact and it fit more easily. I had purchased the Airflow
Performance pump but returned it because of the space requirements for
installation. I am using two Airflow Performance filters, one for each
tank, before the fuel selector. A friend has shoe-horned the Airflow
Performance pump into his RV-4 so it can be done. The only advantage to the
Weldon pump that I am aware of is the compact size. Many in our chapter
have used the Airflow Performance pump, and as far as I know they have all
been satisfied. Since you are building a 7A, I see no reason not to use the
Airflow Performance pump and save yourself the $220 price differential.
These pumps have parts that wear out, so anything you buy used on e-bay may
need to be rebuilt. Rion Bourgeois
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net>
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Injection
>
> For those with far more experience out there ...
>
> Question: What are the Lycoming/Air Flow Performance fuel injection
> requirements?
>
> What are the GPH flow requirements
>
> What is the pressure output requirement for a FI pump?
>
> There are many Holley pumps on eBay disclaiming their use with fuel
> injection ...
>
> There are a few Weldon pumps as well, some costing nearly as much as AFP
> ...
>
> Is there a cost effective and safe way to provide needed fuel supply using
> AFP throttle body?
> Trying to put together a shopping list ...
>
> Thanks
> Jerry Grimmonpre
> 7A
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Bergh" <dbergh(at)starband.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Injection |
Hello Clark,
I have made the changes to the scholarship app. per your request and will
plan to send out the final version to Greg and the local high Schools ASAP.
Do you want to see a final draft before I do? The only changes were to
rewrite the paragraph as you suggested and to drop the 1 scholarship per
student rule.
Dave.
----- Original Message -----
From: "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Injection
>
> I think Skylor might have meant 18-20 "GPH" (vs "GPM") in message below.
> 1200 gallons per hour might be a bit much. {:-)
>
> James
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Skylor Piper
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Injection
>
>
> Lycoming specifies a minimum boost pump pressure of 14
> psi at max fuel flow, and a maximum of 35 psi for the
> boost pump. The boost pump for an IO-360 should be
> capable of at least 18-20 GPM for an IO-360.
>
> One thing to keep in mind about the Airflow
> performance pump package, as purchased from Van's: It
> includes the fuel pump, bypass check valve, and
> pressure relief valve, all assembled together. It
> also includes a fuel filter, and mounting hardware for
> the pump and filter. Keep in mind that you will need
> all of these items for other pump setups. In my
> opinion, all of these items make the Van's airflow
> performance pump package not such a bad deal after
> all, and you know that it will work.
>
> Skylor
> RV-8 QB Under Construction
>
>
> --- Jerry Grimmonpre wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > For those with far more experience out there ...
> >
> > Question: What are the Lycoming/Air Flow
> > Performance fuel injection
> > requirements?
> >
> > What are the GPH flow requirements
> >
> > What is the pressure output requirement for a FI
> > pump?
> >
> > There are many Holley pumps on eBay disclaiming
> > their use with fuel
> > injection ...
> >
> > There are a few Weldon pumps as well, some costing
> > nearly as much as AFP ...
> >
> > Is there a cost effective and safe way to provide
> > needed fuel supply using
> > AFP throttle body?
> > Trying to put together a shopping list ...
> >
> > Thanks
> > Jerry Grimmonpre
> > 7A
> >
> >
> >
> > Contributions
> > any other
> > Forums.
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________
> http://my.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | FS: Dyna II RV-8 Engine mount |
I have a Dyna II Factory new RV-8 Engine mount that was miss ordered....
Anyone have a need?
RV-4
RV-8 QB....wings
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL.
My Home Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Huft <rv8(at)lazy8.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Injection |
Before my first flight, I tested my AFP pump, by pumping into a 5 gallon
bucket, from left and right tanks. The average was 53 GPH.
John
Scott Bilinski wrote:
>
>I would not even think of looking at a pump that puts out less than 25 GPH
>minimum. By the way, I have also looked in this direction and stayed with
>the AFP pump assy.
>
>
>
>
>>
>>Lycoming specifies a minimum boost pump pressure of 14
>>psi at max fuel flow, and a maximum of 35 psi for the
>>boost pump. The boost pump for an IO-360 should be
>>capable of at least 18-20 GPM for an IO-360.
>>
>>One thing to keep in mind about the Airflow
>>performance pump package, as purchased from Van's: It
>>includes the fuel pump, bypass check valve, and
>>pressure relief valve, all assembled together. It
>>also includes a fuel filter, and mounting hardware for
>>the pump and filter. Keep in mind that you will need
>>all of these items for other pump setups. In my
>>opinion, all of these items make the Van's airflow
>>performance pump package not such a bad deal after
>>all, and you know that it will work.
>>
>>Skylor
>>RV-8 QB Under Construction
>>
>>
>>--- Jerry Grimmonpre wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>For those with far more experience out there ...
>>>
>>>Question: What are the Lycoming/Air Flow
>>>Performance fuel injection
>>>requirements?
>>>
>>>What are the GPH flow requirements
>>>
>>>What is the pressure output requirement for a FI
>>>pump?
>>>
>>>There are many Holley pumps on eBay disclaiming
>>>their use with fuel
>>>injection ...
>>>
>>>There are a few Weldon pumps as well, some costing
>>>nearly as much as AFP ...
>>>
>>>Is there a cost effective and safe way to provide
>>>needed fuel supply using
>>>AFP throttle body?
>>>Trying to put together a shopping list ...
>>>
>>>Thanks
>>>Jerry Grimmonpre
>>>7A
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Contributions
>>>any other
>>>Forums.
>>>
>>>http://www.matronics.com/subscription
>>>http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
>>>http://www.matronics.com/archives
>>>http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
>>>http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>__________________________________
>>http://my.yahoo.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>Scott Bilinski
>Eng dept 305
>Phone (858) 657-2536
>Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chenoweth" <chenoweth(at)gwi.net> |
I'm approaching the point in elevator construction where I have to rivet stiffeners
to skin and skin to spar. I've managed to avoid having to bend the skin
much by doing the match drilling and dimpling from the "outside".
Skin bending/lifting to the extent needed to rivet looks very intimidating (the
flexing that goes on at the cut-outs for the hinges is particularly scary).
Those who've built the nine probably have noticed the inconsistency between the
instructions ("rivet stiffeners to top of skin, rivet skin to top of spar, rivet
stiffeners to bottom of skin") and the photo in the back where someone is
riveting the spar with all the stiffeners already in place.
So I'm looking for help with the proper sequence of events, with techniques for
safely "lifting" the skin enough to access the area near its leading edge, and
with ideas on riveting stiffeners and spar to skin. I will have a helper when
I do this. Also I'm curious about the technique taught in those week-long
empennage classes.
I have the Orndorff video. Perhaps that describes the best approach?
Thanks for the help.
Bill
Albion, Maine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Will Couvillon" <wcouv(at)hotmail.com> |
Bill,
I just finished my elevators and found several tricks that worked best for
me. As for the sequence, rivet all top stiffeners first, then flip it over
and tie down the bottom skin, peel back and rivet in the upper portion of
the spar, rivet the bottom stiffeners, then pop rivet the bottom portion of
the spar. You can see what I did with photos in page 3 of the empennage
section on my log site:
http://home.comcast.net/~wcouv/
Hope this helps,
Will
91056
>From: "Chenoweth" <chenoweth(at)gwi.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: RV9 Elevator
>Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2005 08:34:07 -0500
>
>
>I'm approaching the point in elevator construction where I have to rivet
>stiffeners to skin and skin to spar. I've managed to avoid having to bend
>the skin much by doing the match drilling and dimpling from the "outside".
>
>Skin bending/lifting to the extent needed to rivet looks very intimidating
>(the flexing that goes on at the cut-outs for the hinges is particularly
>scary).
>
>Those who've built the nine probably have noticed the inconsistency between
>the instructions ("rivet stiffeners to top of skin, rivet skin to top of
>spar, rivet stiffeners to bottom of skin") and the photo in the back where
>someone is riveting the spar with all the stiffeners already in place.
>
>So I'm looking for help with the proper sequence of events, with techniques
>for safely "lifting" the skin enough to access the area near its leading
>edge, and with ideas on riveting stiffeners and spar to skin. I will have
>a helper when I do this. Also I'm curious about the technique taught in
>those week-long empennage classes.
>
>I have the Orndorff video. Perhaps that describes the best approach?
>Thanks for the help.
>Bill
>Albion, Maine
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "wskimike" <wskimike(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Swirl Scratches in Plexi |
Micro-mesh requires time but if done properly you will get great results.
The trick is using the right grit and keeping it wet. If you let it get the
least bit dry, that is why most people take longer than it really requires.
It's a feel thing that just takes practice.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Swirl Scratches in Plexi
>
>
>> >
>> Scratches can be deeper than they appear! Micro-mesh is the
>> way to go
>> ..... more expensive but less labor intensive. Here there is no
>> substitute for the strong-arm method. You just can't hurry it.
>
>
> I used Micro Mesh on some windscreen scratches, probably put in about 12
> hours using the system before I gave up. I don't doubt that a good
> outcome
> was possible, it just was taking an unreasonable amount of time and
> effort.
> Then, I got a Scratch-Off kit. Piece of cake, whole thing fixed up in an
> hour or less. The foam pads for use on a drill are the only way to go.
>
> Alex Peterson
> RV6-A 569 hours
> Maple Grove, MN
>
> http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Turbo Tom" <turbotom(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9 Elevator |
I will have a helper when I do this. Also I'm curious about the technique
taught in those week-long empennage classes.
>
As a veteran of one of those classes, I guess it is my turn to chime in.
Bill, I've got two words for you; back riveting.
It will take two people and a few specialized tools; a back riveting plate,
and we used a made-for-the-task back riveting rivet-set.
After fitting all the stiffeners and dimpling everything, flush rivets are
placed in the skin and rivet tape is used to hold them in place. You can do
one whole side at a time. The outside of the skin is placed on the steel
plate [the tape holds the rivets in]. Each stiffener is placed over the
rivet shanks that are protruding up through the skin. Then, one man holds
the skin open [by "peeling back the open end] and hold the skin against the
plate while the other hammers the shank end of the rivet with the the
back-riveting set. It goes VERY quickly after all the set-up is done.
These are the nicest flush rivets on the airplane. There's a reason folks
go to the trouble of back riveting as many rivets as can be done that way.
When one side is finished, flip the skin over. Rinse and repeat.
Avery Tools has the specialty rivet set. It has a spring loaded collar that
helps get a firm hold on the set and clamps the two pieces together. You
need a rather large piece of steel to back up the work. That might be the
hardest part to obtain. Alexander's of course, had a special table set up
for this operation.
Hope that helps!
TT
RV-8 QB
ATL GA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Draper <mdraper(at)nww.com> |
| Subject: | Has anyone tried PreKote? |
I am thinking about trying PreKote instead of the traditional
etch/conversion coating process. Anyone with first hand experience using
this stuff?
From their web site (http://www.terravendi.com/PreKote/prekote-main-en.asp
<http://www.terravendi.com/PreKote/prekote-main-en.asp> )
PreKote(tm) is a non-chromate surface pretreatment compound that improves
adhesion and reduces corrosion in a safe hazard-free process. By virtually
eliminating the need for chromate conversion coatings, acid etches, and
other toxic processes, PreKote cuts paint preparation time and costs up to
40% and achieves superior results.
- Mike Draper
RV-8 QB
Message
I am thinking about
trying PreKote instead of the traditional etch/conversion coating
process. Anyone with first hand experience using this
stuff?
From their web site
(http://www.terravendi.com/PreKote/prekote-main-en.asp)
PreKote(tm) is a non-chromate surface pretreatment
compound that improves adhesion and reduces corrosion in a safe hazard-free
process. By virtually eliminating the need for chromate conversion coatings,
acid etches, and other toxic processes, PreKote cuts paint preparation time and
costs up to 40% and achieves superior results.
- Mike
Draper
RV-8
QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV9 Elevator |
In a message dated 1/22/05 10:21:59 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
turbotom(at)mindspring.com writes:
You
need a rather large piece of steel to back up the work. That might be the
hardest part to obtain. Alexander's of course, had a special table set up
for this operation.
Hope that helps!
TT
RV-8 QB
ATL GA
I found a nice piece of steel at the local scrap yard. Walked through the
yard until I found what I was looking for, and paid only about 10 cents per
pound. Also found some nice odd bucking bars there too.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (Flying, well it did the last time I tried it.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9 Elevator |
If you have a auto or truck spring shop in your town, they should have spare
and unneeded pieces of plate steel suitable for this back riveting task.
That is where I got mine. I also picked up a few smaller pieces that I have
found handy for various other things that have come up. The spring shop in
my town had pieces of scrape that weight about 10 pounds and under. The
heavier the better. I just had to buff it up a bit with a scotch brite
wheel. Cost was nothing. YMMV.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
Evansville, Indiana (just north of western Kentucky)
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hopperdhh(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV9 Elevator
>
>
> In a message dated 1/22/05 10:21:59 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
> turbotom(at)mindspring.com writes:
>
> You
> need a rather large piece of steel to back up the work. That might be
the
> hardest part to obtain. Alexander's of course, had a special table set
up
> for this operation.
>
> Hope that helps!
>
> TT
>
> RV-8 QB
> ATL GA
>
>
> I found a nice piece of steel at the local scrap yard. Walked through
the
> yard until I found what I was looking for, and paid only about 10 cents
per
> pound. Also found some nice odd bucking bars there too.
>
> Dan Hopper
> Walton, IN
> RV-7A (Flying, well it did the last time I tried it.)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LARRY ADAMSON" <rvhi03(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need Advice on Seatle to Scottsdale Flight |
----- Original Message -----
From: John Wiegenstein
Subject: RV-List: Need Advice on Seatle to Scottsdale Flight
Personally, I prefer the big rocky areas & high deserts. I'd definitely want to
include some of Lake Powell (Page,Arizona KPGA) and possibly Monument Valley
which is just west of the Utah/Arizona border. Page airport has nice modern facilities
surrounded by fantastic red rock scenery. At Page, you'll also be next
door to the boundaries of the Grand Canyon. Sedona, Arizona is also a great
place to at least fly over or visit for what looks like an aircraft carrier
type landing. There is always freeway below, and numerous small airports along
the route. The March weather could range from sunny skies to blizzards. Will
just have to watch the forecast on that one, although southern Utah & Arizona
usually remain clear with excellent visibility that time of year. Salt Lake
to Seattle is the variable.
The RV6 will have no problem whatsoever with any mountainous elevations. It can
fly over them all on the route, and density altitude will be no problem. For
the record, I'm familiar with Boise to Salt Lake, to Phoenix. Haven't been airborne
northwest to Seattle.
L.Adamson KLSC
listers might be a place to start. I'm considering flying my O-360/CS RV-6
from Seattle to a seminar in Scottsdale, AZ in mid-march. Flight would be
VFR with GPS as primary nav source and VOR as backup (plus sectionals and Mk
1 eyeball, of course). The AOPA Flight Planner calculates the shortest
Victor airway route as being though Boise, down over Salt Lake, then
essentially south to the Phoenix area, about 7 hrs or so en route at a
planned average of 160 KTAS. Lots of big rocky areas and high desert, and
empty spaces. A route down the coast to Southern Cal and then hanging a
hard left over the mountains looks to be a bit longer but might provide
better options for diverting to alternates and/or forced landing areas - but
still some big rocky areas to go over.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Has anyone tried PreKote? |
Yes.
I have been using it only our RV 10 project. It seems to be working fine
when used according to instructions.
Most of the time I have been following the two application process, however
much hunch is that that may be overkill and intended for applications where
an airplane is being repainted after stripping and or has some corrosion. I
tried to get a hold of the company for and modifications to the process when
using new material but was unable to get an answer. It also took awhile to
get them to agree to ship the small 5 gallon container. I think they are
used to selling to large operations (DOD) and probably in 55 gallon drums.
I was also careful to conserve the material best I could due to the expense.
I'd do it again, the thing I like best is that it is non-toxic and the paint
seems to stick just as well as with the conventional etch/alodine process.
Good luck.
Dick Sipp
RV10 #65
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Draper" <mdraper(at)nww.com>
Subject: RV-List: Has anyone tried PreKote?
>
> I am thinking about trying PreKote instead of the traditional
> etch/conversion coating process. Anyone with first hand experience
> using
> this stuff?
>
> From their web site (http://www.terravendi.com/PreKote/prekote-main-en.asp
> <http://www.terravendi.com/PreKote/prekote-main-en.asp> )
>
> PreKote(tm) is a non-chromate surface pretreatment compound that improves
> adhesion and reduces corrosion in a safe hazard-free process. By virtually
> eliminating the need for chromate conversion coatings, acid etches, and
> other toxic processes, PreKote cuts paint preparation time and costs up to
> 40% and achieves superior results.
> - Mike Draper
> RV-8 QB
>
>
> Message
>
>
>
> I am thinking about
> trying PreKote instead of the traditional etch/conversion coating
> process. Anyone with first hand experience using this
> stuff?
> class833055415-22012005>
> From their web site
> ( ">http://www.terravendi.com/PreKote/prekote-main-en.asp)
> class833055415-22012005>
> faceVerdana>PreKote(tm) is a non-chromate surface pretreatment
> compound that improves adhesion and reduces corrosion in a safe
> hazard-free
> process. By virtually eliminating the need for chromate conversion
> coatings,
> acid etches, and other toxic processes, PreKote cuts paint preparation
> time and
> costs up to 40% and achieves superior results.
>
>
> size2>
> - Mike
> Draper
> RV-8
> QB
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Couvillon" <wcouv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | When to drill my elevator control horns? |
I am putting the finishing touches on my empennage kit for my 9A and have a question
about when to drill the elevator control horns for the center bearing on
the horizontal stabilizer. I have looked and looked in the manual and can't find
it in the empennage instructions or in the empennage attachment to the fuselage
instructions.
Does this get done much later in the assemmbly process or did Van's want me to
figure this one out on my own? Also, any tips out there on how best to do this
and get it perfect? Help is, as always, very appreciated!
Will
http://home.comcast.net/~wcouv/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Visit to Kissimmee, FL |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Getting a car?? If so come on over to the Tampa area to Flight Crafters
(on the East side of Tampa). There is a RV9 A and two RV7 A under
construction. Plus several in the area The people at flight Crafters are
real nice.
Jim Nelson
RV9 A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Has anyone tried PreKote? |
Hi Mike,
It's nice to hear that Richard Sipp is having good results with PreKote.
Of course Richard isn't flying yet. I have no first hand experience with it
myself. Last January, someone asked this same question on the OLD RV8 list.
List member Jerry Esquenazi posted the following reply. Jerry is a Major in
the USAF. He is based in Texas (Randolf I think) He checked with the
maintenance crew chiefs on base. Read his comments below.
From: "Jerry Esquenazi"
<<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rv8list/post?postID=yqSbOY-XljiOfaus-BJOYTNhkRbLUEy3aQP5DVbtL3MPCBpEVoULIcbk9YQCbGEO09rjgWQ>jlintx@g...>
Date: Sun Jan 25, 2004 10:14 am
Subject: Prekote update
I spoke with the chief of the corrosion shop here on base. When I asked
him about Prekote, he chuckled. Not a good sign. This man is very familiar
with Prekote. He has been directly involved with it's use and has given
briefings concerning it's use and performance. In a nutshell, he said the
he would give his right arm if he could get rid of Prekote and go back to
etch/Alodine! He said they have had paint peeling within 4 months of
application. This surprised me... He said the application of Prekote is
actually more labor intensive because Prekote is applied in 3 steps v.s.
the 2 steps of the etch/alodine.
This is something the previous articles said was an improvement over the
Alodine process. He also said the Prekote application manual requires
special water (distilled or de-ionized or something like
that)for the rinsing process. It sounds like the articles were a bunch of
propaganda. It's use in the AF is being mandated in the tech orders. I'm
going to call some of the other bases to see if
they had similar results. BTW, he invited me to come over to the shop the
next they prep a T-38 so I can see the process myself. I'll keep you guys
posted.
Jerry
Charlie Kuss
>
>I am thinking about trying PreKote instead of the traditional
>etch/conversion coating process. Anyone with first hand experience using
>this stuff?
>
> From their web site (http://www.terravendi.com/PreKote/prekote-main-en.asp
><http://www.terravendi.com/PreKote/prekote-main-en.asp> )
>
>PreKote(tm) is a non-chromate surface pretreatment compound that improves
>adhesion and reduces corrosion in a safe hazard-free process. By virtually
>eliminating the need for chromate conversion coatings, acid etches, and
>other toxic processes, PreKote cuts paint preparation time and costs up to
>40% and achieves superior results.
>- Mike Draper
>RV-8 QB
>
>
>Message
>
>
>
>I am thinking about
>trying PreKote instead of the traditional etch/conversion coating
>process. Anyone with first hand experience using this
>stuff?
>class833055415-22012005>
> From their web site
>(">http://www.terravendi.com/PreKote/prekote-main-en.asp)
>class833055415-22012005>
>faceVerdana>PreKote(tm) is a non-chromate surface pretreatment
>compound that improves adhesion and reduces corrosion in a safe hazard-free
>process. By virtually eliminating the need for chromate conversion coatings,
>acid etches, and other toxic processes, PreKote cuts paint preparation
>time and
>costs up to 40% and achieves superior results.
>
>
>size2>
>- Mike
>Draper
>RV-8
>QB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need Advice on Seattle to Scottsdale Flight |
John,
I've made this trek several times:
Salem, OR (SLE) --> (2 1/2 hrs)
Yerington, NV (O43) --> (3 hrs)
Dear Valley, AZ (DVT)
Scottsdale (SDL) is only a couple of miles east of DVT.
Probably about the same from O43.
Yerington has cheap self-serve fuel and a restaurant.
I have only gone as far as Salem though.
2-1/2 to 3 hr legs are about it for me. This is the
fastest route. Some scenery. You got Crate Lake on the way.
If you get here you must see Sedona and the red rocks.
Scud run down Oak Creek Canyon. Let me know, we'll put
together a group of RV's and go. Weather should be GREAT.
Larry Olson
RV6 DVT
Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Has anyone tried PreKote? |
Just to clarify, I am using prekote on interior surfaces only, under a two
part epoxy primer. I will leave the exterior process to the paint shop.
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Has anyone tried PreKote?
>
> Hi Mike,
> It's nice to hear that Richard Sipp is having good results with PreKote.
> Of course Richard isn't flying yet. I have no first hand experience with
> it
> myself. Last January, someone asked this same question on the OLD RV8
> list.
> List member Jerry Esquenazi posted the following reply. Jerry is a Major
> in
> the USAF. He is based in Texas (Randolf I think) He checked with the
> maintenance crew chiefs on base. Read his comments below.
>
> From: "Jerry Esquenazi"
> <<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rv8list/post?postID=yqSbOY-XljiOfaus-BJOYTNhkRbLUEy3aQP5DVbtL3MPCBpEVoULIcbk9YQCbGEO09rjgWQ>jlintx@g...>
>
> Date: Sun Jan 25, 2004 10:14 am
> Subject: Prekote update
>
> I spoke with the chief of the corrosion shop here on base. When I asked
> him about Prekote, he chuckled. Not a good sign. This man is very familiar
> with Prekote. He has been directly involved with it's use and has given
> briefings concerning it's use and performance. In a nutshell, he said the
> he would give his right arm if he could get rid of Prekote and go back to
> etch/Alodine! He said they have had paint peeling within 4 months of
> application. This surprised me... He said the application of Prekote is
> actually more labor intensive because Prekote is applied in 3 steps v.s.
> the 2 steps of the etch/alodine.
> This is something the previous articles said was an improvement over the
> Alodine process. He also said the Prekote application manual requires
> special water (distilled or de-ionized or something like
> that)for the rinsing process. It sounds like the articles were a bunch of
> propaganda. It's use in the AF is being mandated in the tech orders. I'm
> going to call some of the other bases to see if
> they had similar results. BTW, he invited me to come over to the shop the
> next they prep a T-38 so I can see the process myself. I'll keep you guys
> posted.
> Jerry
>
>
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
>>
>>I am thinking about trying PreKote instead of the traditional
>>etch/conversion coating process. Anyone with first hand experience
>>using
>>this stuff?
>>
>> From their web site
>> (http://www.terravendi.com/PreKote/prekote-main-en.asp
>><http://www.terravendi.com/PreKote/prekote-main-en.asp> )
>>
>>PreKote(tm) is a non-chromate surface pretreatment compound that improves
>>adhesion and reduces corrosion in a safe hazard-free process. By virtually
>>eliminating the need for chromate conversion coatings, acid etches, and
>>other toxic processes, PreKote cuts paint preparation time and costs up to
>>40% and achieves superior results.
>>- Mike Draper
>>RV-8 QB
>>
>>
>>Message
>>
>>
>>
>>I am thinking about
>>trying PreKote instead of the traditional etch/conversion coating
>>process. Anyone with first hand experience using this
>>stuff?
>>>class833055415-22012005>
>> From their web site
>>(>">http://www.terravendi.com/PreKote/prekote-main-en.asp)
>>>class833055415-22012005>
>>>faceVerdana>PreKote(tm) is a non-chromate surface pretreatment
>>compound that improves adhesion and reduces corrosion in a safe
>>hazard-free
>>process. By virtually eliminating the need for chromate conversion
>>coatings,
>>acid etches, and other toxic processes, PreKote cuts paint preparation
>>time and
>>costs up to 40% and achieves superior results.
>>
>>
>>>size2>
>>- Mike
>>Draper
>>RV-8
>>QB
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | When to drill my elevator control horns? |
Hi Will,
With out 8A we drilled the horn toward the end of the project after
installing the HS. Not sure about the 9A.
Good Building,
Chuck Rowbotham
>From: "William Couvillon" <wcouv(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: When to drill my elevator control horns?
>Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2005 17:23:14 -0500
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: When to drill my elevator control horns? |
Same for the 9A.
Dick Tasker
Charles Rowbotham wrote:
>
>Hi Will,
>
>With out 8A we drilled the horn toward the end of the project after
>installing the HS. Not sure about the 9A.
>
>Good Building,
>
>Chuck Rowbotham
>
>
>
>>From: "William Couvillon" <wcouv(at)hotmail.com>
>>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>To:
>>Subject: RV-List: When to drill my elevator control horns?
>>Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2005 17:23:14 -0500
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: When to drill my elevator control horns? |
You can drill the horns on the bench if you would like to do it now before
the fuselage is complete. That is when/how I did mine. Mount the elevators
on the HS per builder's manual and plans allowing the horns to hang down
from your work surface's edge. Be sure to fabricate a wood or metal block
to fit snugly between the horns to ensure they stay perfectly square and in
correct position. Clamp the elevators in perfect position. You might like
to check Dan Checkoway's web site. He recommends using a drill guide to
help ensure the drill angle is correct and protect the bearing you drill
through as a hole location guide. **This is a critical activity as some
have found out after the fact if you do it poorly.** So, take your time
here and drill it right the first time. You don't want any slop in the
final horn holes. I drilled the holes smaller than needed and used a reemer
to bring to final size.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
Evansville, Indiana (just north of western Kentucky)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: When to drill my elevator control horns?
>
> Same for the 9A.
>
> Dick Tasker
>
> Charles Rowbotham wrote:
>
> >
> >Hi Will,
> >
> >With out 8A we drilled the horn toward the end of the project after
> >installing the HS. Not sure about the 9A.
> >
> >Good Building,
> >
> >Chuck Rowbotham
> >
> >
> >
> >>From: "William Couvillon" <wcouv(at)hotmail.com>
> >>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >>To:
> >>Subject: RV-List: When to drill my elevator control horns?
> >>Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2005 17:23:14 -0500
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jacklockamy" <jacklockamy(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brass/Copper bus bar |
You can make your own 'bar' from either brass or copper by buying the appropriate
tubing, cut it to length, place the tubing in a vise and smash it flat! Works
great and it's cheap.
Jack Lockamy
Camarillo, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Brass/Copper bus bar |
"Dana Overall" Wrote:
>A search of the local hardware stores only netted .025 copper to
>connect my battery contactor and starter contactor. However, I found some .062
>brass.
Here are some common conductivity numbers @ 300Kelvin (about 27c)
Units are relative (nm)
Silver:.......15.9
Copper.....17.1
Gold.........22.1
Aluminum.26.5
Brass.......64.0
Nickle.......69.3
Tin...........115
Solder......150
Steel(plain)180
Lead.........208
Water......181,100x10
9
Looks like you should stick with Copper.
Cheers G (RV-4, RV-7 project)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rust proof tail wheel spring connector clips |
Does anyone know of a source for stainless steel tail wheel spring connector
clips? The ones that came with my tail wheel from Van's have rusted badly in
only a few months.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, flying!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brass/Copper bus bar |
Brass will work just fine.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, flying!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Injection |
Many thanks to all contributing the data points for this short thread ...
Airflow Performance is the favored choice ... and the responses from the
experience on this list are reassuring as well.
Regards ...
Jerry Grimmonpre
7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV's/Warbirds |
Fun photos if nothing else... Lots of options too.
http://www.dananig.com/air_betle.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brass/Copper bus bar |
Looks like you should stick with Copper
According to your numbers, Brass is an excellent conductor. However, as
suggested you can get copper easy at a plumbing store. Remember though that
the copper is not pure either. It will be a mix but still an excellent
conductor.
Tim Bryan
Redmond, OR.
N616TB RV-6
-------Original Message-------
From: gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com
Date: 01/23/05 11:33:18
Subject: RV-List: Brass/Copper bus bar
"Dana Overall" Wrote:
>A search of the local hardware stores only netted .025 copper to
>connect my battery contactor and starter contactor. However, I found some
062
>brass.
Here are some common conductivity numbers @ 300Kelvin (about 27c)
Units are relative (nm)
Silver:.......15.9
Copper.....17.1
Gold.........22.1
Aluminum.26.5
Brass.......64.0
Nickle.......69.3
Tin...........115
Solder......150
Steel(plain)180
Lead.........208
Water......181,100x10
9
Looks like you should stick with Copper.
Cheers G (RV-4, RV-7 project)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV's/Warbirds |
Interesting spec sheet too. Note the stated 7.82 metre wingspan = 25 ft 9 in
or so compared to 23 ft for a stock RV-6A. Is this the extended wingspan
version they mention or does the IF trainer have an even longer span? The
picture shows the extra span mostly outboard of the ailerons. Also the 840
kilo MTOW is about 1850 lbs or 200 lbs above the typical RV-6A MTOW.
The panel picture is interesting, engine monitor in the center, lots of
radios and a CB panel at the right lower?
Jim Oke
RV-6A (not an Air Beetle) C-GKGZ
Wpg, MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV's/Warbirds
>
> Fun photos if nothing else... Lots of options too.
> http://www.dananig.com/air_betle.htm
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV's/Warbirds |
>
>Brian,
>
>While all this is in fun lets go back one step.
>
>Being a FIGHTER PILOT is not a profession but way of life or maybe a mental
>attitude.
>
>If you fly your plane safety, fly with-in your limits (you can fly to the
>edge of your limits but not over), learn all there is to learn about flying
>your plane, etc. etc. - you maybe a Fighter Pilot. Therefore, your plane
>is
>a fighter.
>
>I can't believe I am saying this but even Doug maybe be a Fighter Pilot.
>:-) I still hate him because he gets to fly P-51s, etc.
>
>Brian, I will forgive you for building a RV-10 if you promise to go back to
>a single or two seat aircraft once the kids grow up. OK, you may have
>grandkids by then so the forgiveness may be extended.
>
>Tom "GummiBear" Gummo
>Wild Weasel #1573
>Apple Valley, CA
>Harmon Rocket-II
I'll always have the "guns guns guns!!! Turn until the skins wrinkle and the
wso pukes" approach to flying....within my own limits...abilities technical
and physical. As much as I also hate Doug, my hat's off to ya, man. You
done good, earned the right to fly the mil spec iron and do so safely. A
long while back I escorted you out of Double Eagle...in that long string of
B-25's. Man, that was awesome! My -8 was breathing hard to keep up but your
starboard side was well protected.
I fully intend to complete the fleet in the Denk Airborne Armada with an RV3
when the -10 is alive and serving the family truckster role. Wally world
Wally world!! OK ok, who has to pee NOW??? Who's the moosiest moose there
is....Marty Moose...
Egads...movie flashback.
Keep the flying warrior spirit alive. It's in us all, whether in the form
of a Luscombe 8 or RV-X, Rocket, hot air balloon.....NOT!!! Heh. Man, talk
about a target rich environment...Albuquerque International Balloon
Fiesta....Grrrrrrr.....heater tone....FIRE! Boom! Scratch one special
shape. Hey, that flying Jim Beam bottle looks tasty...
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Hey, do helicopters count as warbirds?
Paul Besing
AH-64D Apache Longbow Driver
(not quite a war bird, but very effective!)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brian Denk
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV's/Warbirds
>
>Brian,
>
>While all this is in fun lets go back one step.
>
>Being a FIGHTER PILOT is not a profession but way of life or maybe a mental
>attitude.
>
>If you fly your plane safety, fly with-in your limits (you can fly to the
>edge of your limits but not over), learn all there is to learn about flying
>your plane, etc. etc. - you maybe a Fighter Pilot. Therefore, your plane
>is
>a fighter.
>
>I can't believe I am saying this but even Doug maybe be a Fighter Pilot.
>:-) I still hate him because he gets to fly P-51s, etc.
>
>Brian, I will forgive you for building a RV-10 if you promise to go back to
>a single or two seat aircraft once the kids grow up. OK, you may have
>grandkids by then so the forgiveness may be extended.
>
>Tom "GummiBear" Gummo
>Wild Weasel #1573
>Apple Valley, CA
>Harmon Rocket-II
I'll always have the "guns guns guns!!! Turn until the skins wrinkle and the
wso pukes" approach to flying....within my own limits...abilities technical
and physical. As much as I also hate Doug, my hat's off to ya, man. You
done good, earned the right to fly the mil spec iron and do so safely. A
long while back I escorted you out of Double Eagle...in that long string of
B-25's. Man, that was awesome! My -8 was breathing hard to keep up but your
starboard side was well protected.
I fully intend to complete the fleet in the Denk Airborne Armada with an RV3
when the -10 is alive and serving the family truckster role. Wally world
Wally world!! OK ok, who has to pee NOW??? Who's the moosiest moose there
is....Marty Moose...
Egads...movie flashback.
Keep the flying warrior spirit alive. It's in us all, whether in the form
of a Luscombe 8 or RV-X, Rocket, hot air balloon.....NOT!!! Heh. Man, talk
about a target rich environment...Albuquerque International Balloon
Fiesta....Grrrrrrr.....heater tone....FIRE! Boom! Scratch one special
shape. Hey, that flying Jim Beam bottle looks tasty...
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Bartrim" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
Hi Bob
I haven't done any detailed testing to any precise standards, however I
find that in any straight ahead flight from high speed down to stall they
are very close to one another. But they are mounted on opposite wings, so
you can see the difference in lift while turning. The PSS AOA should be more
accurate as it actually measures true AOA, while the Dynon just infers it,
but I find they are to close to tell. Keep in mind that both have to be
calibrated in flight by flying a calibration routine and each of them
requires a different routine allowing for more chance of difference between
them. So I doubt that an attempt at more precise testing would be worth much
more. The Dynon doesn't have a switch to indicate flaps down, however the
calibration routine required a stall be performed with flaps down. (4
different stalls in 4 different flight configs) and it is still accurate
with flaps down.
The Dynon display is easy to see in sunlight, whereas the LEDs on the PSS
can be a little washed out. I moved the PSS display onto the glaresheild
facing up to give me a heads-up display. It works great in all but bright
sunlight. But the audible warning on the PSS is nice, whereas the older D-10
doesn't have this.
Todd Bartrim
RV9Endurance
13B Turbo Rotary
C-FSTB
"The world will always have a place for those that bring hard
work and determination to the things they do."
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bob J
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon ramblings
Hi Todd,
Have you done any sort of detailed testing to see what the actual
differences are between the PSS AOA and the Dynon? I would be
interested in seeing what indicated differences there are during stall
at more than 1G, of if the Dynon will show changes in AOA during gusty
conditions.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Right Angle Drill |
Hi all,
I need a right angle drill to drill out some tight spots. Any suggestions on
what I need? Aircraft Spruce advertises four sizes.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/angledrill.php
I would think the keychuck model would be the easiest to use, long term.
Thoughts?
Michael Wynn
'93 FJZ 80
TLCA # 13095
Pacific Mountain Cruisers
San Ramon, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rust proof tail wheel spring connector clips |
I don't have answer to your question. But, I have been introduced to the
idea that using a few winds of heavy SS safety tie wire should work or could
supplement the clips in case they fail. I am also looking into substituting
the clips with a shackle that can be more easily replaced. Type 316 cast
anchor shackles or something similar could work.
See http://www.mcmaster.com/ and search for shackle
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
Evansville, Indiana (just north of western Kentucky)
----- Original Message -----
From: <HCRV6(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Rust proof tail wheel spring connector clips
>
> Does anyone know of a source for stainless steel tail wheel spring
connector
> clips? The ones that came with my tail wheel from Van's have rusted badly
in
> only a few months.
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, flying!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Right Angle Drill |
I've got both a low profile version from Avery (the kind with the threaded
drill bits) and a chuck version. I've used both. I've needed the small one
for really tight spaces before, but I've needed the chuck version for
different size drills and unibits.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
Kitlog Builder's Software
www.kitlog.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of MLWynn(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Right Angle Drill
Hi all,
I need a right angle drill to drill out some tight spots. Any suggestions
on
what I need? Aircraft Spruce advertises four sizes.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/angledrill.php
I would think the keychuck model would be the easiest to use, long term.
Thoughts?
Michael Wynn
'93 FJZ 80
TLCA # 13095
Pacific Mountain Cruisers
San Ramon, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Right Angle Drill |
Mike,
Get the 1/4" - 28 tpi model. This will fit in much tighter areas than
anything with a chuck on it. It uses special, short drill bits which are
threaded (hence the 1/4 - 28). These are also sold by ACS. You can buy
these bits cheaply at airshows like Sun N' Fun and Air Venture.
Charlie Kuss
>
>Hi all,
>
>I need a right angle drill to drill out some tight spots. Any suggestions on
>what I need? Aircraft Spruce advertises four sizes.
>
>http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/angledrill.php
>
>I would think the keychuck model would be the easiest to use, long term.
>Thoughts?
>
>Michael Wynn
>'93 FJZ 80
>TLCA # 13095
>Pacific Mountain Cruisers
>San Ramon, CA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Turbo Tom" <turbotom(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: steering link follow up report |
> I will post any further
> information.
>>TT
And, here it is.
Turbo Tom
Terry Jantzi, who is inventor and manufacture of the Jantzi Steering Link
has decided that due to other projects and commitments that he is unable to
give the time needed to market and sell the Steering Link. I think time has
shown that the Jantzi Steering Link is great product. I am a friend of
Terry's and a fellow builder. I am currently just completing an F1 Rocket
parts kit. Terry and I have come to an agreement for myself to purchased the
rights to the Jantzi Steering Link. The transaction will take a little time
to put together but I hope to begin filling orders by mid February. A web
site should be coming online shortly. I will notify you of the details as
they come together.
I can be contacted at:
Wayne Hadath
23 Jadestone Crt
Kitchener, Ontario
Canada, N2A 3X7
Phone 519-648-3375
Fax 519-648-3375
Cell 519-589-8352
I noticed your email on the RV List. Feel free to share this information
with whom ever you wish.
Thanks
Wayne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Right Angle Drill |
We have both but used the chuck very little (just to big). The low profile
(from Avery) is our angle drill of choice (can get short - reg - Long bits).
Also agree that S-N-F would an excellent place to pickup extra bits.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Right Angle Drill
>Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 06:45:32 -0700
>
>
>I've got both a low profile version from Avery (the kind with the threaded
>drill bits) and a chuck version. I've used both. I've needed the small
>one
>for really tight spaces before, but I've needed the chuck version for
>different size drills and unibits.
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A Sold
>RV-10 Soon
>Kitlog Builder's Software
>www.kitlog.com
>
>-----Original Message-----
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Breaking Dimple Dies |
| From: | "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter(at)jpainter.org> |
Fellow Listers:
I'm now well into my wings on my -7A and last night was dimpling the bottom
skins in my c-frame tool. About half-way through the first skin, the #40
dimple die broke!!! I wouldn't really be that concerned about it but this is
the third one that I've had break (one was a tank die that I had borrowed from
a friend). I can't understand what I'm doing wrong.
When I'm dimpling, before striking the c-frame I always gently press down to
bring the male/female dies into alignment, then I release and press down again
to ensure that they are still aligned.
I'm dimpling with usually two blows with the rubber mallot and I'm making the
dimple at the same 'crispness' as my pneumatic squeezer.
Are any other builders having the same problem?
Oh Yeah, I got my dies from Cleaveland.
Thanks,
Jamie
--
Jamie D. Painter
RV-7A wings N622JP (reserved)
http://rv.jpainter.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SCOTT SPENCER <aerokinetic(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brass/Copper bus bar |
The conductivity differences between copper and brass will be utterly insignificant
for a conductor the length of a bus bar... unless of course you have a 1000'
bus bar...
my brass one works great FWIW. Bought the stock at a local hobby shop.
Scott
N4ZW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Fenstermacher" <dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Right Angle Drill |
I have the "kit" sold by ACS. It was 175 bucks, or so.
(Gift from Wife).
Anyway, I like it. It has everything.
You might also want to pick-up a "pancake drill". It gets in really tight
spots, but is tough to hold on to.
Dave
> [Original Message]
> From: <MLWynn(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Date: 1/24/2005 2:41:15 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Right Angle Drill
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I need a right angle drill to drill out some tight spots. Any
suggestions on
> what I need? Aircraft Spruce advertises four sizes.
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/angledrill.php
>
> I would think the keychuck model would be the easiest to use, long term.
> Thoughts?
>
> Michael Wynn
> '93 FJZ 80
> TLCA # 13095
> Pacific Mountain Cruisers
> San Ramon, CA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mkejrj(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Panel Planning Woes |
I used a popular panel planning software to plan the panel on my RV8. The software
allowed me to mix and match various Avionics and Instrumentation combinations.
I used the software to determine my optimum equipment list and ordered my
Avionics and Instrumentation accordingly. I was a happy camper and everything
promised to fit nicely per the final software printout.
When I attempted to lay the actual purchased equipment out on my panel I noted
a serious problem with the actual clearances both on the panel face and the opposite
side.The software does not give you a true picture.My stuff would not fit
!
I contracted out the actual panel cutting and equipment installation to a Pro who
had done several installations on RV's and RV8's and he confirmed the "gotcha"
with using the software. There were several builders who had identical problems.
My bottom line is that I have two brand new instruments which could not be installed
and which I would like to offer for sale @ a 30% discount :
R C Allen Turn Coordinator,Model RCA 83A-11-14,14 Volts, Bezel lighted,TSO 3Cb
A/C/Spruce Lists @ $ 753.00 // Sale @ $ 527.00
United Vert. Speed Indicator,Model 7000-C31, 0 to 2000 FPM
A/C/Spruce Lists @ $ 332.00 // Sale @ $ 232.00
Interested parties please contact me direct.
Dick Jordan
Malvern, Pa...610 933 4183
RV 8A (Finishing)
I used a popular panel planning software to plan the panel on my RV8. The software
allowed me to mix and match various Avionics and Instrumentation combinations.
I used the software to determinemy optimum equipment list and ordered my
Avionics and Instrumentation accordingly. I was a happy camper and everything
promised to fit nicelyper the final software printout.
When I attempted to lay the actual purchased equipment out on my panel I noted
a serious problem with the actual clearances both on the panel face and the opposite
side.The software does not give you a true picture.My stuff would not fit
!
I contracted out the actual panel cutting and equipment installation to aPro who
had done several installations on RV's and RV8's and he confirmed the "gotcha"
with using the software. There were several builders who had identical problems.
My bottom line is that I have two brand new instruments which could not be installed
and which I would like to offer for sale @ a 30% discount :
R C Allen Turn Coordinator,Model RCA 83A-11-14,14 Volts, Bezel lighted,TSO 3Cb
A/C/Spruce Lists @ $ 753.00 // Sale @ $ 527.00
United Vert. Speed Indicator,Model 7000-C31, 0 to 2000 FPM
A/C/Spruce Lists @ $ 332.00 // Sale @ $ 232.00
Interested parties please contact me direct.
Dick Jordan
Malvern, Pa...610 933 4183
RV 8A (Finishing)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Planning Woes |
Which popular panel planning software let you astray?? I'd hate to run into the
same problem.
Craig Gallenbach
RV8A .... just startin' but dreaming of panels
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Right Angle Drill |
Go to this site http://www.terrytools.com/
Terry Tools inc. make:
Professional quality tools.
They have a range of angle tools to offer.
The smallest format chuckable right angle drill that I've seen.
They supply replacement parts for the tools they make.
Their prices are reasonable.
I believe both Avery and Cleaveland Tools List them.
A really tough litttle tool.
I made a removable position adjustable handle for mine that cut down on tool
and bit breakage and increased drilling accuracy.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: <MLWynn(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Right Angle Drill
>
> Hi all,
>
> I need a right angle drill to drill out some tight spots. Any suggestions
> on
> what I need? Aircraft Spruce advertises four sizes.
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/angledrill.php
>
> I would think the keychuck model would be the easiest to use, long term.
> Thoughts?
>
> Michael Wynn
> '93 FJZ 80
> TLCA # 13095
> Pacific Mountain Cruisers
> San Ramon, CA
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Breaking Dimple Dies |
Hi Jamie,
Are you pre-drilling the holes to a Number 41 or number 40 Drill size?
Jim in kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter(at)jpainter.org>
Subject: RV-List: Breaking Dimple Dies
>
>
> Fellow Listers:
>
> I'm now well into my wings on my -7A and last night was dimpling the
> bottom
> skins in my c-frame tool. About half-way through the first skin, the #40
> dimple die broke!!! I wouldn't really be that concerned about it but this
> is
> the third one that I've had break (one was a tank die that I had borrowed
> from
> a friend). I can't understand what I'm doing wrong.
>
> When I'm dimpling, before striking the c-frame I always gently press down
> to
> bring the male/female dies into alignment, then I release and press down
> again
> to ensure that they are still aligned.
>
> I'm dimpling with usually two blows with the rubber mallot and I'm making
> the
> dimple at the same 'crispness' as my pneumatic squeezer.
>
> Are any other builders having the same problem?
>
> Oh Yeah, I got my dies from Cleaveland.
>
> Thanks,
> Jamie
>
> --
> Jamie D. Painter
> RV-7A wings N622JP (reserved)
> http://rv.jpainter.org
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Breaking Dimple Dies |
Are holding the die down when you hit it? How high is the die when the
spring lifts it out of the way?
If you are letting the spring lift the die and then hit it, there is a
significant probability that the die will not be quite lined up with
each other (due to play in the bronze bearing in the c-frame) and will
wear or break.
When I use the c-frame to dimple my parts, I hold the die down against
the part/other die when I hit it.
Dick Tasker
Jamie Painter wrote:
>
>
>Fellow Listers:
>
>I'm now well into my wings on my -7A and last night was dimpling the bottom
>skins in my c-frame tool. About half-way through the first skin, the #40
>dimple die broke!!! I wouldn't really be that concerned about it but this is
>the third one that I've had break (one was a tank die that I had borrowed from
>a friend). I can't understand what I'm doing wrong.
>
>When I'm dimpling, before striking the c-frame I always gently press down to
>bring the male/female dies into alignment, then I release and press down again
>to ensure that they are still aligned.
>
>I'm dimpling with usually two blows with the rubber mallot and I'm making the
>dimple at the same 'crispness' as my pneumatic squeezer.
>
>Are any other builders having the same problem?
>
>Oh Yeah, I got my dies from Cleaveland.
>
>Thanks,
>Jamie
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John D. Heath" <Alto_Q(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV's/Warbirds |
The one's I flew do.
John D.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV's/Warbirds
>
> Hey, do helicopters count as warbirds?
>
> Paul Besing
> AH-64D Apache Longbow Driver
> (not quite a war bird, but very effective!)
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brian Denk
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV's/Warbirds
>
>
>>
>>Brian,
>>
>>While all this is in fun lets go back one step.
>>
>>Being a FIGHTER PILOT is not a profession but way of life or maybe a
>>mental
>>attitude.
>>
>>If you fly your plane safety, fly with-in your limits (you can fly to the
>>edge of your limits but not over), learn all there is to learn about
>>flying
>>your plane, etc. etc. - you maybe a Fighter Pilot. Therefore, your plane
>>is
>>a fighter.
>>
>>I can't believe I am saying this but even Doug maybe be a Fighter Pilot.
>>:-) I still hate him because he gets to fly P-51s, etc.
>>
>>Brian, I will forgive you for building a RV-10 if you promise to go back
>>to
>>a single or two seat aircraft once the kids grow up. OK, you may have
>>grandkids by then so the forgiveness may be extended.
>>
>>Tom "GummiBear" Gummo
>>Wild Weasel #1573
>>Apple Valley, CA
>>Harmon Rocket-II
>
>
> I'll always have the "guns guns guns!!! Turn until the skins wrinkle and
> the
> wso pukes" approach to flying....within my own limits...abilities
> technical
> and physical. As much as I also hate Doug, my hat's off to ya, man. You
> done good, earned the right to fly the mil spec iron and do so safely. A
> long while back I escorted you out of Double Eagle...in that long string
> of
> B-25's. Man, that was awesome! My -8 was breathing hard to keep up but
> your
> starboard side was well protected.
>
> I fully intend to complete the fleet in the Denk Airborne Armada with an
> RV3
> when the -10 is alive and serving the family truckster role. Wally world
> Wally world!! OK ok, who has to pee NOW??? Who's the moosiest moose
> there
> is....Marty Moose...
>
> Egads...movie flashback.
>
> Keep the flying warrior spirit alive. It's in us all, whether in the form
> of a Luscombe 8 or RV-X, Rocket, hot air balloon.....NOT!!! Heh. Man,
> talk
> about a target rich environment...Albuquerque International Balloon
> Fiesta....Grrrrrrr.....heater tone....FIRE! Boom! Scratch one special
> shape. Hey, that flying Jim Beam bottle looks tasty...
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> RV10 '51
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV's/Warbirds |
Subject: RV's/Warbirds
>Bryan Jones wrote:
>Some have made the point that RV's are/were used in the Nigerian Air Force. Wouldn't
that >make RV's (-6/7A's) warbirds??? Certainly as much as any Yak 52TW,
I'd imagine.
My RV is not a Warbird. It will never be a Warbird, and I never want it to be a
Warbird. It is an amateur-built experimental kit-aircraft I made and proud of
it. I guess if you what to paint your RV like a Blue Angel, P-51, Nigerian
Air Beatle or purple with pink dots, go for it. It is still a Homebuilt plane,
which is something to be proud of (except the purple one with dots :-)
No offense to warbird pilot-owners but, I think many are into going to air shows
and posing next to their plane in some jump-suit get-up . I am into actually
flying my RV in jeans and tennis shoes. I get to fly in a uniform at work.
Who cares about War-birds? Dont get me wrong, it is an honor to live in the USA
where we have freedom to build and fly experimental "Birds." That freedom is
thanks to the Men and Women who served in the past and who serve today and in
the future. Military planes are a tribute to those who built them and served
during that period in history. The owners of warbids are not the heroes, but
they do have money to maintain them for future generations. That is all. Unfortunately,
many of these owner-pilots destroy them. Money and pilot skill is not
mutually related.
>John Huft wrote:
>Over the holidays I was visiting with a friend's father, who flew the B-24 in
WWII. He feels that >the CAF are a bunch of wannabees, who are being disrespectful
to those who fought and >died in those aircraft, in defense of our freedom.
I don't personally know many warbird owner-pilots, but their pride in owning these
rare planes and what it represents to all citizens is understandable. Unfortunately
the Warbird Associations in general (not the planes) have earned an
elitist reputation. From my personal experience at Air shows it seems somewhat
deserved. I love seeing the planes in the "Warbird" area, but dont enjoy seeing
overly enthusiastic volunteers in antique military costumes, parade around
shouting orders at civilians. They dont want our RVs there, and I dont want
to be there either. Nice to visit but wouldn't want to park there. Again who
cares? Whatever floats your boat (your plane, your ego or whatever). "Birds
of a feather........"
Whoa, too deep. I guess I'll just have to pretend to be a fighter pilot and strap
my chute and RV on, go do some dogfighting and formation flying, just like
a fighter pilot. I have got to get me one of those cool warbird flight suits,
helmets, and scarf. (just kidding, sticking with the T-shirt and jeans.)
Bogey at your 6!, To close for missiles going to guns! Paint your plane anyway
you like but park it with the RVs. No warbirds allowed.
Cheers G
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> |
> BTW, St. Johns, AZ probably has the lowest prices for 100 LL but is out of
> the way for this route.
I got "lured" into stopping at St. Johns on my way from Winslow to Roswell.
Fuel was a little cheaper, staff was nice, but it was out of the way and the
altitude is 6500 ft, the highest on my trip.
Yerington, NV is a nice stopover from Portland.
Watch out for all the Restricted Areas.
Watch out for the water in the fuel. Several FBOs said it because I was flying
so high. Never had it Virgnia!
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk VA RV-6A N841RV
Virginia is for flying lovers!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Breaking Dimple Dies |
I think I remember one fella that had a c-frame that was somehow out a
alignment and had the same problems. Call Avery or whoever you got it from
and they can probably help you.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Richard Tasker [mailto:retasker(at)optonline.net]
> Sent: Monday, January 24, 2005 1:50 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Breaking Dimple Dies
>
>
> Are holding the die down when you hit it? How high is the
> die when the spring lifts it out of the way?
>
> If you are letting the spring lift the die and then hit it,
> there is a significant probability that the die will not be
> quite lined up with each other (due to play in the bronze
> bearing in the c-frame) and will wear or break.
>
> When I use the c-frame to dimple my parts, I hold the die
> down against the part/other die when I hit it.
>
> Dick Tasker
>
> Jamie Painter wrote:
>
>
> >
> >
> >Fellow Listers:
> >
> >I'm now well into my wings on my -7A and last night was dimpling the
> >bottom skins in my c-frame tool. About half-way through the first
> >skin, the #40 dimple die broke!!! I wouldn't really be that
> concerned
> >about it but this is the third one that I've had break (one
> was a tank
> >die that I had borrowed from a friend). I can't understand
> what I'm doing wrong.
> >
> >When I'm dimpling, before striking the c-frame I always gently press
> >down to bring the male/female dies into alignment, then I
> release and
> >press down again to ensure that they are still aligned.
> >
> >I'm dimpling with usually two blows with the rubber mallot and I'm
> >making the dimple at the same 'crispness' as my pneumatic squeezer.
> >
> >Are any other builders having the same problem?
> >
> >Oh Yeah, I got my dies from Cleaveland.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Jamie
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> ========
> Matronics Forums.
> ========
> ========
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Right Angle Drill |
David Fenstermacher wrote:
>
>I have the "kit" sold by ACS. It was 175 bucks, or so.
>(Gift from Wife).
>Anyway, I like it. It has everything.
>
>You might also want to pick-up a "pancake drill". It gets in really tight
>spots, but is tough to hold on to.
>
>
I can't see how a pancake drill would be hard to hold on to, can you
tell why?
--
Chris W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gar Pessel" <pessel(at)ptialaska.net> |
| Subject: | tank skin fit on wing |
Building my first 9A wing. After fitting the leading edge and wing skins to the
spar and ribs, I assembled the tank with clecos and put it on the spar. The
fit is perfect everywhere except for a 1/32 gap between the tank skin trailing
edge and the top skin. It would be on top, of course. Twist is less than 2/32,
and the wing is as straight as I can measure with a 48 inch straight edge.
Any ideas on what I did wrong? I can think of only two solutions: 1) bondo 2)
go buy a piece of 032 and drill it out with the original skin as a guide with
a slightly longer edge at the front. Phooey.
Gar Pessel Stuck in the snow in Fairbanks AK.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Wiegenstein" <n727jw(at)hellerwiegenstein.com> |
| Subject: | Thanks for Advice on SEA - PHX Routing |
Many thanks to everyone who replied, both on and off list, to my inquiry
regarding flight planning for my hoped-for trip from Seattle - Phoenix in
March. Now I just need good wx! If anyone wants to check with me
regarding the info I received, please email off list. Thanks again,
everyone - the RV community is really something :-)
John Wiegenstein
Hansville, WA
RV-6 N727JW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Breaking Dimple Dies |
Jamie Painter wrote:
>
>
>Fellow Listers:
>
>I'm now well into my wings on my -7A and last night was dimpling the bottom
>skins in my c-frame tool. About half-way through the first skin, the #40
>dimple die broke!!! I wouldn't really be that concerned about it but this is
>the third one that I've had break (one was a tank die that I had borrowed from
>a friend). I can't understand what I'm doing wrong.
>
>When I'm dimpling, before striking the c-frame I always gently press down to
>bring the male/female dies into alignment, then I release and press down again
>to ensure that they are still aligned.
>
>I'm dimpling with usually two blows with the rubber mallot and I'm making the
>dimple at the same 'crispness' as my pneumatic squeezer.
>
>Are any other builders having the same problem?
>
>Oh Yeah, I got my dies from Cleaveland.
>
>Thanks,
>Jamie
>
>
>
I've broken one die & it was because the c-frame wasn't perfectly
aligned & the sheet wasn't perfectly flat.
What works for me now is to hold the die down firmly with one hand &
strike one hard blow with the mallet. It's pretty impressive how hard
you can hit without deforming anything but the dimple itself.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mkejrj(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Planning Woes |
Craig,
Panel Planner, Instrument Panel Design Software,Copyright 1999 by One mile Up,
Inc.
Good luck with your panel.
Dick Jordan
-------------- Original message --------------
>
>
> Which popular panel planning software let you astray?? I'd hate to run into the
> same problem.
>
> Craig Gallenbach
>
> RV8A .... just startin' but dreaming of panels
>
>
>
>
>
>
Craig,
Panel Planner, Instrument Panel Design Software,Copyright 1999 by One mile Up,
Inc.
Good luck with your panel.
Dick Jordan
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: Craig
Which popular panel planning software let you astray?? I'd hate to run into the
same problem.
Craig Gallenbach
RV8A .... just startin' but dreaming of panels
ww.matronics.com/subscription
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
Comments from a slightly different perspective (I am not a warbird owner)
{SNIP}
[JEC:]
|>
|> Who cares about War-birds? Dont get me wrong, it is an honor to live in
|> the USA where we have freedom to build and fly experimental "Birds."
|> That freedom is thanks to the Men and Women who served in the past and
|> who serve today and in the future. Military planes are a tribute to
|> those who built them and served during that period in history. The
|> owners of warbids are not the heroes, but they do have money to maintain
|> them for future generations. That is all. Unfortunately, many of these
|> owner-pilots destroy them. Money and pilot skill is not mutually
|> related.
[JEC:]
Of course **most** of the warbird owners are not the heroes, though some
ARE.
Those owners that have the money AND *spend* the money to keep this special
history alive deserve (in my opinion) a "Thank You". I have had the pleasure
to meet a few of these individuals who were "as nice as the days are long".
On the other hand, I too have met a few whose arrogance and "elitist"
attitude gave a bad name to the genre but that is not everyone. Hey I have
even met a ***few*** RV owners who lower the likeability index of
Experimental Aircraft Owners, but I just disregard them as individuals. And
maybe that's your point below.
.
|>
|> I don't personally know many warbird owner-pilots, but their pride in
|> owning these rare planes and what it represents to all citizens is
|> understandable. Unfortunately the Warbird Associations in general (not
|> the planes) have earned an elitist reputation. From my personal
|> experience at Air shows it seems somewhat deserved. I love seeing the
|> planes in the "Warbird" area, but dont enjoy seeing overly enthusiastic
|> volunteers in antique military costumes, parade around shouting orders
|> at civilians. They dont want our RVs there, and I dont want to be there
[JEC:]
I think that in *some* of the cases, it is a matter of practicality. I have
had some affiliation with an effort that brought together a few warbirds and
a few RVs. We were concerned about where we parked and started planes so
that we did not have a B17 or a P51 blow over an RV on startup ... or maybe
even worse, taxi into one because it wasn't visible (yes there were plane
escorts and tugs).
|> either. Nice to visit but wouldn't want to park there. Again who cares?
|> Whatever floats your boat (your plane, your ego or whatever). "Birds of
|> a feather........"
[JEC:]
There are a few instances where "warbirds" and RVs co-mingle. The most
recent one I am aware of is when TeamRV + Falcon Flight + OhioValley +
Palmetto RV'ers (lead by Stu and Mike) flew a "B17" formation, carrying some
original Tuskegee Airmen in some of the RVs, were escorted by the only known
flying Red-Tailed P-51C Mustang ("Macon Belle"). The Mustang is owned (and
was flown) by Kermit Weeks of Fantasy of Flight. See
http://www.mstewart.net/teamrv and scroll down "Camden 04" and then on to
"What Did I Do?" for more details.
The point here is that warbird people and experimental people had a good
gathering that day and I suspect do so quite often in other venues as well.
James
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: tank skin fit on wing |
Make sure the plastic has been removed from the inside of the tank skin as
that will cause some mis-alignment.I never checked the alignment on my tanks
before they were built but when you assemble them after building some gap
problems can be resolved by totating the tank aft and pulling the tank skin
against the wing skin and then tightening down the upper screws before
tightening the spar bolts and lower screws.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gar Pessel" <pessel(at)ptialaska.net>
Subject: RV-List: tank skin fit on wing
> Building my first 9A wing. After fitting the leading edge and wing skins
> to the spar and ribs, I assembled the tank with clecos and put it on the
> spar. The fit is perfect everywhere except for a 1/32 gap between the
> tank skin trailing edge and the top skin. It would be on top, of course.
> Twist is less than 2/32, and the wing is as straight as I can measure with
> a 48 inch straight edge.
> Any ideas on what I did wrong? I can think of only two solutions: 1)
> bondo 2) go buy a piece of 032 and drill it out with the original skin as
> a guide with a slightly longer edge at the front. Phooey.
> Gar Pessel Stuck in the snow in Fairbanks AK.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kysh <vans-dragon(at)lapdragon.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV's/Warbirds |
> Want to see a grown man cry ? Mention to Tom the F-4's turned into tragets.
That makes me cry, and I'm just a 'sprat' by many standards.
It's an atrocity. :<
-Kysh
--
| 'Life begins at 120kias' - http://www.lapdragon.org/flying |
| CBR-F4 streetbike - http://www.lapdragon.org/cbr |
| 1968 Mustang fastback - http://www.lapdragon.org/mustang |
| Got 'nix? - http://www.infrastructure.org/ |
| KG6FOB - http://www.lapdragon.org/ham |
| Give blood: Play Hockey! http://www.unixdragon.com/ |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Breaking Dimple Dies |
Good advice by Charlie below. I recommend the following steps leading up to
the actual dimpling:
Drill the hole in a match hole drill operation so you have perfect
alignment. Is either #40 or #30 or #19 depending on the dimple size.
Debur the hole
Set up your dimpling work surface so the surrounding area is the same
height as the bottom die of the dimpler
Align the part being dimpled and with one hand pull down the top dimple
die and hold it down firmly so the male and female dies are engaged
slightly. ( I like to have the male die on the top for this.)
While holding the top die down, use Charlie's technique below.
Take your time. (I got in a hurry one time and put a dimple where it
made a new hole. Cost me some time and $$.) I have never broken a dimple
die. I use an Avery c-frame and for the biggest/most part have done all the
dimpling working alone.
Best wishes.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
Evansville, Indiana (just north of western Kentucky)
>
> >
> >
> I've broken one die & it was because the c-frame wasn't perfectly
> aligned & the sheet wasn't perfectly flat.
>
> What works for me now is to hold the die down firmly with one hand &
> strike one hard blow with the mallet. It's pretty impressive how hard
> you can hit without deforming anything but the dimple itself.
>
> Charlie
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Figgins" <2004nospam(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Breaking Dimple Dies |
One other method to consider is to modify your C-frame with Al Herrons lever
mod, I did this (see http://dbfiggins.home.comcast.net ) and it works well
and allows relatively easy single handed dimpling of skins. I did this after
I punched a hole in the wrong place with the hammer method.
Dave Figgins RV7A (waiting for wings)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of LarryRobertHelming
Subject: Re: RV-List: Breaking Dimple Dies
-->
Good advice by Charlie below. I recommend the following steps leading up to
the actual dimpling:
Drill the hole in a match hole drill operation so you have perfect
alignment. Is either #40 or #30 or #19 depending on the dimple size.
Debur the hole
Set up your dimpling work surface so the surrounding area is the same
height as the bottom die of the dimpler
Align the part being dimpled and with one hand pull down the top dimple
die and hold it down firmly so the male and female dies are engaged
slightly. ( I like to have the male die on the top for this.)
While holding the top die down, use Charlie's technique below.
Take your time. (I got in a hurry one time and put a dimple where it
made a new hole. Cost me some time and $$.) I have never broken a dimple
die. I use an Avery c-frame and for the biggest/most part have done all the
dimpling working alone.
Best wishes.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
Evansville, Indiana (just north of western Kentucky)
> -->
>
> >
> >
> I've broken one die & it was because the c-frame wasn't perfectly
> aligned & the sheet wasn't perfectly flat.
>
> What works for me now is to hold the die down firmly with one hand &
> strike one hard blow with the mallet. It's pretty impressive how hard
> you can hit without deforming anything but the dimple itself.
>
> Charlie
>
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Right Angle Drill |
David Fenstermacher wrote:
>
>It's not really "hard".
>The thing just gets a bit wiggly since it pivots at the driving end.
>Trying to hold the drill and the pancake attachment all at once, in a tight
>spot. Maybe it's just me, but the difficulty tolerance stack-up gets to
>this eye-hand-coordinationally challenged builder.
>
>
I think we are thinking of 2 different implementations of the same
idea. I was thinking of this....
http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/dbpics/large/1750.jpg
And I think you are talking about one of these.....
http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/dbpics/large/T235.jpg
--
Chris W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY(at)HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM> |
| Subject: | Rust proof tail wheel spring connector clips |
1.96 FROM_NO_LOWER From address has no lower-case characters
I was going to use "oval threaded connectors" from http://www.mcmaster.com
(type "oval Threaded connectors" in the search block) The smallest ones
work great and come in stainless. Got mine at Home Depot. Then I decided
to get Van's deluxe replacement tail wheel springs in the "miscellaneous
items" area of the Van's on line catalog. They are all stainless and look
great but are a bit expensive, $125.00.
Rich Crosley
RV-8, N948RC
MMR11188888888
Rich CrosleyR111iscellaneous Items
Items
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
| Subject: | Wife wants her name on the registration! |
List,
I am just beginning to look into the required documentation to get my
airplane registered and certificated. My lovely and ever-so-impatient
sweetie would like her name on the paperwork as well, which I am more than
happy to oblige.
I recall a discussion last year about multiple builders and names on
paperwork and how you could only have one name on one of the forms. I
searched the archives and couldn't find the messages.
Questions:
- Can I register the plane in both of our names? Or must it be a single
name? (Would register as Matthew & Sandra Brandes)
- The bill of sale that I just received from Van's has just my name on it.
Will I need to get a new one with both of our names on it?
- My N-number is reserved in my name only. Am I going to have to change
that too?
Any insight to this would be appreciated.
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
www.n523rv.com http://www.n523rv.com/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cory Emberson" <bootless(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Wife wants her name on the registration! |
Are you in a community property state? Most FAA ownership records I've seen
with married couples list the spouse as co-owner.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Matthew Brandes
Subject: RV-List: Wife wants her name on the registration!
List,
I am just beginning to look into the required documentation to get my
airplane registered and certificated. My lovely and ever-so-impatient
sweetie would like her name on the paperwork as well, which I am more than
happy to oblige.
I recall a discussion last year about multiple builders and names on
paperwork and how you could only have one name on one of the forms. I
searched the archives and couldn't find the messages.
Questions:
- Can I register the plane in both of our names? Or must it be a single
name? (Would register as Matthew & Sandra Brandes)
- The bill of sale that I just received from Van's has just my name on it.
Will I need to get a new one with both of our names on it?
- My N-number is reserved in my name only. Am I going to have to change
that too?
Any insight to this would be appreciated.
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
www.n523rv.com http://www.n523rv.com/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JT Helms" <jhelms(at)nationair.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wife wants her name on the registration! |
List the registered owners all on the insurance. If she's on the
registration, she could be sued in the event of a claim as the FAA info is
public. If she's listed as a named insured then she gets protection as an
owner of the plane under the insurance as well.
One less thing to have to sort out after a claim.
JT
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com>
Subject: RV-List: Wife wants her name on the registration!
>
> List,
>
> I am just beginning to look into the required documentation to get my
> airplane registered and certificated. My lovely and ever-so-impatient
> sweetie would like her name on the paperwork as well, which I am more than
> happy to oblige.
>
> I recall a discussion last year about multiple builders and names on
> paperwork and how you could only have one name on one of the forms. I
> searched the archives and couldn't find the messages.
>
> Questions:
>
> - Can I register the plane in both of our names? Or must it be a single
> name? (Would register as Matthew & Sandra Brandes)
> - The bill of sale that I just received from Van's has just my name on it.
> Will I need to get a new one with both of our names on it?
> - My N-number is reserved in my name only. Am I going to have to change
> that too?
>
> Any insight to this would be appreciated.
>
>
> Matthew Brandes,
> Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
> EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
> www.n523rv.com http://www.n523rv.com/>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Wife wants her name on the registration! |
Matt,
1. The plane may be registered in both names. There are multiple blocks for
names and signatures at the bottom of the registration form.
2. The bill of sale from van's in only your name is not a problem.
3. No need to change the 'N' number reservation. As long as your name is on
the registration you should not ahve any problem.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Wife wants her name on the registration!
>Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 12:08:53 -0600
>
>
>List,
>
>I am just beginning to look into the required documentation to get my
>airplane registered and certificated. My lovely and ever-so-impatient
>sweetie would like her name on the paperwork as well, which I am more than
>happy to oblige.
>
>I recall a discussion last year about multiple builders and names on
>paperwork and how you could only have one name on one of the forms. I
>searched the archives and couldn't find the messages.
>
>Questions:
>
>- Can I register the plane in both of our names? Or must it be a single
>name? (Would register as Matthew & Sandra Brandes)
>- The bill of sale that I just received from Van's has just my name on it.
>Will I need to get a new one with both of our names on it?
>- My N-number is reserved in my name only. Am I going to have to change
>that too?
>
>Any insight to this would be appreciated.
>
>
>Matthew Brandes,
>Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
>EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
>www.n523rv.com http://www.n523rv.com/>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wife wants her name on the registration! |
She can be named on the insurance even though, in my case she is not a pilot?
>
>List the registered owners all on the insurance. If she's on the
>registration, she could be sued in the event of a claim as the FAA info is
>public. If she's listed as a named insured then she gets protection as an
>owner of the plane under the insurance as well.
>
>One less thing to have to sort out after a claim.
>
>JT
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Wife wants her name on the registration!
>
>
> >
> > List,
> >
> > I am just beginning to look into the required documentation to get my
> > airplane registered and certificated. My lovely and ever-so-impatient
> > sweetie would like her name on the paperwork as well, which I am more than
> > happy to oblige.
> >
> > I recall a discussion last year about multiple builders and names on
> > paperwork and how you could only have one name on one of the forms. I
> > searched the archives and couldn't find the messages.
> >
> > Questions:
> >
> > - Can I register the plane in both of our names? Or must it be a single
> > name? (Would register as Matthew & Sandra Brandes)
> > - The bill of sale that I just received from Van's has just my name on it.
> > Will I need to get a new one with both of our names on it?
> > - My N-number is reserved in my name only. Am I going to have to change
> > that too?
> >
> > Any insight to this would be appreciated.
> >
> >
> > Matthew Brandes,
> > Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
> > EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
> > www.n523rv.com http://www.n523rv.com/>
> >
> >
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Brass/Copper bus bar |
Dana,
I went through some calculations for both the voltage dropped and the power
dissipated in bus bars made of both copper and brass. It was assumed that
both would be 1/16 inch by 1/2 inch in cross section by 4 inches in length.
The conductivity of copper is 1.72 x 10 -8 ohm.meter. The conductivity of
brass is from 6 to 8 x 10 -8 ohm.meter. For the purpose of this calculation I
assumed that brass was 4 times that of copper. These values came from my old
Sears & Zemansky college physics book.
The voltage drop in the 4 inch copper strap at 300 amps is 0.026 volts. In
the brass strap it would be 4 times that, or 0.104 volts. These may seem
like small voltage drops but the power dissipated (voltage drop x current) is
7.8 watts for the copper vs. 31.2 watts for the brass.
As you can see, the brass strip is starting to dissipate a significant
amount of power. And as it heats up, its resistance would go even higher. I
would go with the copper strip, but keep it 1/16 inch thick. Only my opinion.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (Flying since July)
In a message dated 1/22/05 8:39:46 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
bo124rs(at)hotmail.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall"
A search of the local hardware stores only netted .025 copper to connect my
battery contactor and starter contactor. However, I found some .062 brass.
As a total "non electrical" guy, what is the conductive/heat difference
between brass and copper? Is brass acceptable in this application (or
any)...................if not, don't shame me....................as
mechanical as I am I still only understand electricity to point of turning
on the switch...............................
I am having fun with wiring though.
Thanks,
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JT Helms" <jhelms(at)nationair.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wife wants her name on the registration! |
Yes. The named insured section, and named pilots are seperate.
JT
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Bilinski" <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wife wants her name on the registration!
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> She can be named on the insurance even though, in my case she is not a
pilot?
>
>
> >
> >List the registered owners all on the insurance. If she's on the
> >registration, she could be sued in the event of a claim as the FAA info
is
> >public. If she's listed as a named insured then she gets protection as an
> >owner of the plane under the insurance as well.
> >
> >One less thing to have to sort out after a claim.
> >
> >JT
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com>
> >To:
> >Subject: RV-List: Wife wants her name on the registration!
> >
> >
> > >
> > > List,
> > >
> > > I am just beginning to look into the required documentation to get my
> > > airplane registered and certificated. My lovely and ever-so-impatient
> > > sweetie would like her name on the paperwork as well, which I am more
than
> > > happy to oblige.
> > >
> > > I recall a discussion last year about multiple builders and names on
> > > paperwork and how you could only have one name on one of the forms. I
> > > searched the archives and couldn't find the messages.
> > >
> > > Questions:
> > >
> > > - Can I register the plane in both of our names? Or must it be a
single
> > > name? (Would register as Matthew & Sandra Brandes)
> > > - The bill of sale that I just received from Van's has just my name on
it.
> > > Will I need to get a new one with both of our names on it?
> > > - My N-number is reserved in my name only. Am I going to have to
change
> > > that too?
> > >
> > > Any insight to this would be appreciated.
> > >
> > >
> > > Matthew Brandes,
> > > Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
> > > EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
> > > www.n523rv.com http://www.n523rv.com/>
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ammeter <jammeter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brass/Copper bus bar |
Uh, where did you get 300 amps?? The buss bar described in
the original post was for use on the instrument panel. The
ONLY time you may have 300 amps coming from the battery is
when you're starting the engine. And, that circuit does NOT
go through the buss bar.
I haven't checked your calculations but they do sound
accurate but the negligible currents (in comparison to 300
amps) present in the panel certainly won't heat up the brass
or copper bar.
I'd say the maximum current you might find would be closer
to 30 amps (and I really think it's much less than that,
even...) so you need to move the decimal point one place to
the left giving you a voltage drop across the brass buss bar
of 0.0104 volts which, in turn, gives you a heat dissipation
of 30 x 0.0104= 0.3 watts
John
>
>
>Dana,
>
>I went through some calculations for both the voltage dropped and the power
>dissipated in bus bars made of both copper and brass. It was assumed that
>both would be 1/16 inch by 1/2 inch in cross section by 4 inches in length.
>The conductivity of copper is 1.72 x 10 -8 ohm.meter. The conductivity of
>brass is from 6 to 8 x 10 -8 ohm.meter. For the purpose of this calculation
I
>assumed that brass was 4 times that of copper. These values came from my old
>Sears & Zemansky college physics book.
>
>The voltage drop in the 4 inch copper strap at 300 amps is 0.026 volts. In
>the brass strap it would be 4 times that, or 0.104 volts. These may seem
>like small voltage drops but the power dissipated (voltage drop x current) is
>7.8 watts for the copper vs. 31.2 watts for the brass.
>
>As you can see, the brass strip is starting to dissipate a significant
>amount of power. And as it heats up, its resistance would go even higher. I
>would go with the copper strip, but keep it 1/16 inch thick. Only my opinion.
>
>Dan Hopper
>Walton, IN
>RV-7A (Flying since July)
>
>
>In a message dated 1/22/05 8:39:46 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
>bo124rs(at)hotmail.com writes:
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall"
>
>A search of the local hardware stores only netted .025 copper to connect my
>battery contactor and starter contactor. However, I found some .062 brass.
>As a total "non electrical" guy, what is the conductive/heat difference
>between brass and copper? Is brass acceptable in this application (or
>any)...................if not, don't shame me....................as
>mechanical as I am I still only understand electricity to point of turning
>on the switch...............................
>
>I am having fun with wiring though.
>
>Thanks,
>
>
>Dana Overall
>Richmond, KY i39
>RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
>Finish kit
>13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
>http://rvflying.tripod.com
>do not archive
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Brass/Copper bus bar |
John,
Read your own post! He wants to " connect my battery contactor and starter
contactor."
I did make a rash assumption that the starter current is 300 amps, though.
Dan H.
In a message dated 1/25/05 5:48:57 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
jammeter(at)comcast.net writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: John Ammeter
Uh, where did you get 300 amps?? The buss bar described in
the original post was for use on the instrument panel. The
ONLY time you may have 300 amps coming from the battery is
when you're starting the engine. And, that circuit does NOT
go through the buss bar.
I haven't checked your calculations but they do sound
accurate but the negligible currents (in comparison to 300
amps) present in the panel certainly won't heat up the brass
or copper bar.
I'd say the maximum current you might find would be closer
to 30 amps (and I really think it's much less than that,
even...) so you need to move the decimal point one place to
the left giving you a voltage drop across the brass buss bar
of 0.0104 volts which, in turn, gives you a heat dissipation
of 30 x 0.0104= 0.3 watts
John
>--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
>
>
>Dana,
>
>I went through some calculations for both the voltage dropped and the power
>dissipated in bus bars made of both copper and brass. It was assumed that
>both would be 1/16 inch by 1/2 inch in cross section by 4 inches in
length.
>The conductivity of copper is 1.72 x 10 -8 ohm.meter. The conductivity of
>brass is from 6 to 8 x 10 -8 ohm.meter. For the purpose of this
calculation I
>assumed that brass was 4 times that of copper. These values came from my
old
>Sears & Zemansky college physics book.
>
>The voltage drop in the 4 inch copper strap at 300 amps is 0.026 volts.
In
>the brass strap it would be 4 times that, or 0.104 volts. These may seem
>like small voltage drops but the power dissipated (voltage drop x current)
is
>7.8 watts for the copper vs. 31.2 watts for the brass.
>
>As you can see, the brass strip is starting to dissipate a significant
>amount of power. And as it heats up, its resistance would go even higher.
I
>would go with the copper strip, but keep it 1/16 inch thick. Only my
opinion.
>
>Dan Hopper
>Walton, IN
>RV-7A (Flying since July)
>
>
>In a message dated 1/22/05 8:39:46 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
>bo124rs(at)hotmail.com writes:
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall"
>
>A search of the local hardware stores only netted .025 copper to connect
my
>battery contactor and starter contactor. However, I found some .062
brass.
>As a total "non electrical" guy, what is the conductive/heat difference
>between brass and copper? Is brass acceptable in this application (or
>any)...................if not, don't shame me....................as
>mechanical as I am I still only understand electricity to point of turning
>on the switch...............................
>
>I am having fun with wiring though.
>
>Thanks,
>
>
>Dana Overall
>Richmond, KY i39
>RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
>Finish kit
>13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
>http://rvflying.tripod.com
>do not archive
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Brass/Copper bus bar |
John,
I do agree with you that brass could be used for the bus bar connecting the
breakers. It would possibly have a corrosion advantage over copper for that
purpose.
Dan H
In a message dated 1/25/05 5:56:18 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
Hopperdhh(at)aol.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
John,
Read your own post! He wants to " connect my battery contactor and starter
contactor."
I did make a rash assumption that the starter current is 300 amps, though.
Dan H.
In a message dated 1/25/05 5:48:57 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
jammeter(at)comcast.net writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: John Ammeter
Uh, where did you get 300 amps?? The buss bar described in
the original post was for use on the instrument panel. The
ONLY time you may have 300 amps coming from the battery is
when you're starting the engine. And, that circuit does NOT
go through the buss bar.
I haven't checked your calculations but they do sound
accurate but the negligible currents (in comparison to 300
amps) present in the panel certainly won't heat up the brass
or copper bar.
I'd say the maximum current you might find would be closer
to 30 amps (and I really think it's much less than that,
even...) so you need to move the decimal point one place to
the left giving you a voltage drop across the brass buss bar
of 0.0104 volts which, in turn, gives you a heat dissipation
of 30 x 0.0104= 0.3 watts
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Brass/Copper bus bar |
If you are pulling 300 amps across your switch bus, you must be using
electricity to turn your prop.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hopperdhh(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Brass/Copper bus bar
>
>
> Dana,
>
> I went through some calculations for both the voltage dropped and the
power
> dissipated in bus bars made of both copper and brass. It was assumed that
> both would be 1/16 inch by 1/2 inch in cross section by 4 inches in
length.
> The conductivity of copper is 1.72 x 10 -8 ohm.meter. The conductivity
of
> brass is from 6 to 8 x 10 -8 ohm.meter. For the purpose of this
calculation I
> assumed that brass was 4 times that of copper. These values came from my
old
> Sears & Zemansky college physics book.
>
> The voltage drop in the 4 inch copper strap at 300 amps is 0.026 volts.
In
> the brass strap it would be 4 times that, or 0.104 volts. These may seem
> like small voltage drops but the power dissipated (voltage drop x
current) is
> 7.8 watts for the copper vs. 31.2 watts for the brass.
>
> As you can see, the brass strip is starting to dissipate a significant
> amount of power. And as it heats up, its resistance would go even
higher. I
> would go with the copper strip, but keep it 1/16 inch thick. Only my
opinion.
>
> Dan Hopper
> Walton, IN
> RV-7A (Flying since July)
>
>
> In a message dated 1/22/05 8:39:46 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
> bo124rs(at)hotmail.com writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall"
>
> A search of the local hardware stores only netted .025 copper to connect
my
> battery contactor and starter contactor. However, I found some .062
brass.
> As a total "non electrical" guy, what is the conductive/heat difference
> between brass and copper? Is brass acceptable in this application (or
> any)...................if not, don't shame me....................as
> mechanical as I am I still only understand electricity to point of
turning
> on the switch...............................
>
> I am having fun with wiring though.
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY i39
> RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
> Finish kit
> 13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
> do not archive
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Brass/Copper bus bar |
I see what I did wrong. I called it a bus bar. Its not the bus bar in the
usual sense. Its a conductor connecting the master relay to the starter
relay.
Dan H.
In a message dated 1/25/05 6:18:03 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
cgalley(at)qcbc.org writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley"
If you are pulling 300 amps across your switch bus, you must be using
electricity to turn your prop.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hopperdhh(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Brass/Copper bus bar
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
>
>
> Dana,
>
> I went through some calculations for both the voltage dropped and the
power
> dissipated in bus bars made of both copper and brass. It was assumed that
> both would be 1/16 inch by 1/2 inch in cross section by 4 inches in
length.
> The conductivity of copper is 1.72 x 10 -8 ohm.meter. The conductivity
of
> brass is from 6 to 8 x 10 -8 ohm.meter. For the purpose of this
calculation I
> assumed that brass was 4 times that of copper. These values came from my
old
> Sears & Zemansky college physics book.
>
> The voltage drop in the 4 inch copper strap at 300 amps is 0.026 volts.
In
> the brass strap it would be 4 times that, or 0.104 volts. These may seem
> like small voltage drops but the power dissipated (voltage drop x
current) is
> 7.8 watts for the copper vs. 31.2 watts for the brass.
>
> As you can see, the brass strip is starting to dissipate a significant
> amount of power. And as it heats up, its resistance would go even
higher. I
> would go with the copper strip, but keep it 1/16 inch thick. Only my
opinion.
>
> Dan Hopper
> Walton, IN
> RV-7A (Flying since July)
>
>
> In a message dated 1/22/05 8:39:46 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
> bo124rs(at)hotmail.com writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall"
>
> A search of the local hardware stores only netted .025 copper to connect
my
> battery contactor and starter contactor. However, I found some .062
brass.
> As a total "non electrical" guy, what is the conductive/heat difference
> between brass and copper? Is brass acceptable in this application (or
> any)...................if not, don't shame me....................as
> mechanical as I am I still only understand electricity to point of
turning
> on the switch...............................
>
> I am having fun with wiring though.
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Dana Overall
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
| Subject: | oil cooler baffle cut out size |
I have the largest size Positech oil cooler (supposedly the "new deisgn") and
I can't really install it how/where Van's shows to on the RV-8 io-360 plans.
If I build a slight standoff approximately 2 inches behind the rear baffle wall
a la Mark and Kevin's web sites, should I cut the baffle hole the full size of
the oil cooler even though some of that would be obstructed by the #4 cylinder
fins? If I did, I think I would be robbing the #4 cylinder of some air pressure
and /or allow heated air from that cylinder to enter into the oil cooler.
Isn't the idea behind the standoff to keep the opening only as large as what's
not obstructed by the cylinder fins and then allow the air to expand in the oil
cooler "plenum" and then enter the full oil cooler fin area.
Also, why are the oil coolers sometimes mounted at a slight angle? Did someone
determine that was better for drag or cooling efficiency? What's the magic angle?
Thanks,
Lucky
I have the largest size Positech oilcooler (supposedly the "new deisgn") and I
can't really install it how/where Van's shows to on the RV-8 io-360 plans.
IfI build a slight standoff approximately 2 inches behind the rear baffle wall
a la Mark and Kevin's web sites, should I cut the baffle hole the full size of
the oil cooler even though some of that would be obstructed by the #4 cylinder
fins? If I did, I think I would be robbing the #4 cylinder of some air pressure
and /or allow heated air from that cylinder to enter into the oil cooler.
Isn'tthe idea behind the standoffto keep the opening onlyas large as what's not
obstructed by the cylinder fins and then allow theair to expand in the oil cooler
"plenum" and then enter the full oil coolerfin area.
Also, why are the oil coolers sometimes mounted at a slight angle? Did someone
determine that was better for drag or cooling efficiency? What's the magic angle?
Thanks,
Lucky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brass/Copper bus bar |
Well, your calculations are all correct, and as others have pointed out
this will indeed be carrying the 300 amps.
However...
It will do so for a very short time - just until the engine actually
starts. So, while it will indeed dissipate 31 watts, it will heat very
little since it is dissipating this 31 watts for a few seconds at most.
Use whichever material you want to use. The practical difference is
irrelevant.
My $0.02...
Dick Tasker
Hopperdhh(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
>Dana,
>
>I went through some calculations for both the voltage dropped and the power
>dissipated in bus bars made of both copper and brass. It was assumed that
>both would be 1/16 inch by 1/2 inch in cross section by 4 inches in length.
>The conductivity of copper is 1.72 x 10 -8 ohm.meter. The conductivity of
>brass is from 6 to 8 x 10 -8 ohm.meter. For the purpose of this calculation
I
>assumed that brass was 4 times that of copper. These values came from my old
>Sears & Zemansky college physics book.
>
>The voltage drop in the 4 inch copper strap at 300 amps is 0.026 volts. In
>the brass strap it would be 4 times that, or 0.104 volts. These may seem
>like small voltage drops but the power dissipated (voltage drop x current) is
>7.8 watts for the copper vs. 31.2 watts for the brass.
>
>As you can see, the brass strip is starting to dissipate a significant
>amount of power. And as it heats up, its resistance would go even higher. I
>would go with the copper strip, but keep it 1/16 inch thick. Only my opinion.
>
>Dan Hopper
>Walton, IN
>RV-7A (Flying since July)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wife wants her name on the registration! |
Matthew,
There can only be one person entitled to obtain the "repairmans
certificate", after you finish the plane. This is regardless of how many
people built it.
Charlie Kuss
>
>List,
>
>I am just beginning to look into the required documentation to get my
>airplane registered and certificated. My lovely and ever-so-impatient
>sweetie would like her name on the paperwork as well, which I am more than
>happy to oblige.
>
>I recall a discussion last year about multiple builders and names on
>paperwork and how you could only have one name on one of the forms. I
>searched the archives and couldn't find the messages.
>
>Questions:
>
>- Can I register the plane in both of our names? Or must it be a single
>name? (Would register as Matthew & Sandra Brandes)
>- The bill of sale that I just received from Van's has just my name on it.
>Will I need to get a new one with both of our names on it?
>- My N-number is reserved in my name only. Am I going to have to change
>that too?
>
>Any insight to this would be appreciated.
>
>
>Matthew Brandes,
>Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
>EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
>www.n523rv.com http://www.n523rv.com/>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Wife wants her name on the registration! |
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on zoot.lafn.org
If you should expire and your wife is NOT on the registration, the
airplane will have to go through probate (in CA). If she is already on
the registration then your half will just transfer to her. Saves a LOT
of hassle. My wife went through this several years ago. The same applies
to automobiles.
Dave
JT Helms wrote:
>
>List the registered owners all on the insurance. If she's on the
>registration, she could be sued in the event of a claim as the FAA info is
>public. If she's listed as a named insured then she gets protection as an
>owner of the plane under the insurance as well.
>
>One less thing to have to sort out after a claim.
>
>JT
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Hurd <warren(at)ahyup.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tank skin fit on wing |
Hi Gar,
I did this about a year ago, I had to remove some clecos to get the
tank to fit to wing. Hopefully that is your problem as you may have
already discovered. I have posted a few photos at
http://www.ahyup.com/LeftWing/ Good Luck.
Warren Hurd
Washington, NH
New Hampshire's highest town, and it is so cold that my tractor does not
start!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Huft <rv8(at)lazy8.net> |
| Subject: | cam for flap switch |
Someone out there made a nice little cam that goes on the flap
interconnect to operate the micro switch for the AOA system. Can someone
point me to the website? Better yet, is anyone selling this piece?
Thanks, John, RV8
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wife wants her name on the registration! |
Thanks for the replies.... sounds like I shouldn't have any problems. Not
that it matters but she is a pilot as well, which is probably half the
reason she wants on the registration. :-)
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
EAA Chapter 1329/868
www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Changing out Air speed indicators |
I just bought a Knots outer ring with true airspeed window from Vans, and was wondering
if there is any caviats to removing/installing? (I didnt build the plane)
this is on an RV6A Charlie heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: cam for flap switch |
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Not sure if this is what you saw before, but this is how I did it. No
problems so far...
http://bowenaero.com/mt3/archives/2003/10/flap_limit_swit.html
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8 59.7 Hrs
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
John Huft said:
>
> Someone out there made a nice little cam that goes on the flap
> interconnect to operate the micro switch for the AOA system. Can someone
> point me to the website? Better yet, is anyone selling this piece?
>
> Thanks, John, RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Changing out Air speed indicators |
Not really. You'll find it to be pretty straightforward. Just be sure you
get a pitot/static test when you are done. It's not required unless IFR,
but it's a good idea.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
Kitlog Builder's Software
www.kitlog.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charles Heathco
Subject: RV-List: Changing out Air speed indicators
I just bought a Knots outer ring with true airspeed window from Vans, and
was wondering if there is any caviats to removing/installing? (I didnt build
the plane) this is on an RV6A Charlie heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Changing out Air speed indicators |
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on zoot.lafn.org
IIRC, anytime the system is opened it must be checked, however there is
no repetitive inspection unless the airplane is being used IFR.
Dave
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>Not really. You'll find it to be pretty straightforward. Just be sure you
>get a pitot/static test when you are done. It's not required unless IFR,
>but it's a good idea.
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A Sold
>RV-10 Soon
>Kitlog Builder's Software
>www.kitlog.com
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charles Heathco
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Changing out Air speed indicators
>
>
>I just bought a Knots outer ring with true airspeed window from Vans, and
>was wondering if there is any caviats to removing/installing? (I didnt build
>the plane) this is on an RV6A Charlie heathco
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Lycoming - tractor engine or turbine smooth? |
Lycoming - tractor engine or turbine smooth?
This is the real question that needs to be asked when you are considering
which propeller to buy.
I had an opportunity to test four different constant speed propellers on one
aircraft. There were three different 2 blade propellers and one 3 blade
propeller. This aircraft was owned by a friend who flew the aircraft. I just
went along as the observer and data recorder.
The original 2 blade CS propeller on the aircraft had been dynamically
balanced on the engine. Since the plan was to leave the original propeller on
the
aircraft when we were finished with the testing, we did not removed the
dynamic balance weights from the engine ring gear.
All three of the 2 blade propellers had about the same vibration level
during their flights.
Then we flew the 3 blade propeller. On the takeoff roll and initial climb,
I noticed the pilot was highly stressed about something. About mid field, as
we were climbing out, he finally said that something must be wrong with the
engine. That the engine wasn't producing power.
We laughed about this later.
We seem to expect a certain vibration level which can be directly related to
the engine power. We don't even think about this. And it's not something
that any instructor I have had has ever talked about. It's just there.
I've been told that a 2 blade propeller has a 2nd order harmonic on the
Lycoming engine.
And the 3 blade propeller does not have the 2nd order harmonic on the
Lycoming engine.
What does this really mean?
On another test sequence, I had an opportunity to again ride in a friends
aircraft. On this friends Harmon Rocket 2 with a stock Lycoming IO-540-C4B5,
we removed a 2 blade propeller and installed a 3 blade propeller.
The 3 blade propeller made the Lycoming run like it was an electric motor,
it was so vibration free.
When we installed a second 2 blade propeller, the same old vibration came
right back. At the same level as the first 2 blade propeller.
So the question goes back to you, the builder/flyers. Do you want "turbine
smooth" or "tractor engine"?
Maybe I should have titled this: "How to tame the Lycomisaur"
Regards,
Jim Ayers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming - tractor engine or turbine smooth? |
LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com wrote:
On another test sequence, I had an opportunity to again ride in a friends
aircraft. On this friends Harmon Rocket 2 with a stock Lycoming IO-540-C4B5,
we removed a 2 blade propeller and installed a 3 blade propeller.
The 3 blade propeller made the Lycoming run like it was an electric motor,
it was so vibration free.
Isn't it true that a six cylinder engine will run smoother with a three blade prop?
The IO-540 is a six.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming - tractor engine or turbine smooth? |
3 blade props are always smoother. 2 blade props are not naturally
balanced, meaning, spin up a 2 blade prop and let it fly off the mounting
flange, and it will tumble around and drop to the ground. Do the same thing
with a 3 blade prop and it will take off and go much further with no
tumbling before dropping to the ground. Does this make sense?
>
>LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com wrote:
>On another test sequence, I had an opportunity to again ride in a friends
>aircraft. On this friends Harmon Rocket 2 with a stock Lycoming IO-540-C4B5,
>we removed a 2 blade propeller and installed a 3 blade propeller.
>The 3 blade propeller made the Lycoming run like it was an electric motor,
>it was so vibration free.
>
>
>Isn't it true that a six cylinder engine will run smoother with a three
>blade prop?
>
>The IO-540 is a six.
>
>hal
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming - tractor engine or turbine smooth? |
In a message dated 1/26/05 10:57:21 AM Central Standard Time,
LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com writes:
> I've been told that a 2 blade propeller has a 2nd order harmonic on the
> Lycoming engine.
> And the 3 blade propeller does not have the 2nd order harmonic on the
> Lycoming engine.
>>>>>>
While discussing buying a prop with Craig Catto, he mentioned that the power
pulses striking the canopy from a two-blade can be in sync with the engine
power pulses, adding the two together as sensed by the pilot. The 3-blade almost
eliminates this amplification as only one blades' power pulse could hit the
canopy during a power stroke if the prop position on the crankshaft allowed it.
Thoughts?
Mark - flying behind a Catto 3-blade (mmmmmmmmmm........................)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob J <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brass/Copper bus bar |
> >A search of the local hardware stores only netted .025 copper to
> >connect my battery contactor and starter contactor. However, I found some
.062
> >brass.
Why do you need another starter contactor in the first place? There's
one built into the starter. Disconnect the jumper from the big
terminal on the starter, run a wire from it to your starter switch,
then a diode from the starter side of the switch to ground to prevent
arcing in the switch or contactor. I have had this setup since day
one on my -6 and have never had any trouble with it.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Cole <cole_gary(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming - tractor engine or turbine smooth? |
Are you talking about a 4 or 6 cylinder?
The reason I ask is that with a 4, there are 2 power strokes per revolution. So
logically the two blade prop could create the pressure wave in sync with the
power stroke that could be felt by the pilot.
However, using that same logic, a three blade prop would cause the same effect
with a 6.
But the reports that I have read say theat the three blade is always smoother than
the two.
I suspect that is due to less thrust per blade being passed back into the frame.
Comments???
Gary Cole
HRII - fuselage slow build
Fiveonepw(at)aol.com wrote:
In a message dated 1/26/05 10:57:21 AM Central Standard Time,
LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com writes:
> I've been told that a 2 blade propeller has a 2nd order harmonic on the
> Lycoming engine.
> And the 3 blade propeller does not have the 2nd order harmonic on the
> Lycoming engine.
>>>>>>
While discussing buying a prop with Craig Catto, he mentioned that the power
pulses striking the canopy from a two-blade can be in sync with the engine
power pulses, adding the two together as sensed by the pilot. The 3-blade almost
eliminates this amplification as only one blades' power pulse could hit the
canopy during a power stroke if the prop position on the crankshaft allowed it.
Thoughts?
Mark - flying behind a Catto 3-blade (mmmmmmmmmm........................)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin Hone" <mctrader(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re:Carburator heat on rvs |
Hi Bert,
My practise is to pull full carb heat on downwind leg, then push it off on
late final. According to my Lycoming Owners Manual, carb heat is not
generally required unless you are landing in known icing conditions.
Martin
_____
<http://promos.hotbar.com/promos/promodll.dll?RunPromo&El&SG&RAND50446&pa
rtnerfastutility> Block Spam Emails - Click here!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
I'm installing my hot-air box on the firewall. I'd like to have it
connect to a simple tee on the cabin side of the firewall. One side of
the Tee would go to each side of the plane. My problem is I can't find
a 2" tee anywhere. Van's has a very fancy tee with 2 flapper valves in
it, but I don't want the 2 valves or the $90 price tag. I guess I
could make something, but little projects like this seem to take a lot
of time.
Does anybody know where I can buy something like this?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, firewall
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich(at)dcscorp.com> |
I'm in the early instrument panel planning stage for my RV-8A. I am
going to probably buy the Dynon EFIS / EMS package with a Gamin 430 if I
can save up the bucks, but also want to have a separate "Standby"
attitude indicator. I'm having difficulty identifying suppliers - or
learning of the goods and others about the options. Anyone have any
biased opinions (now that's a unique concept for this group) about
available products?
Paul Valovich
pvalovich(at)dcscorp.com
Ridgecrest, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Carburator heat on rvs |
> I am a bit surprised by more than just a couple of RVers that have posted
in
> the past about not using Carb Heat. It should be good practice to use
carb
> heat when the throttle is reduced on a carburetor engine. This occurs
when
> we approach for landing. What harm or what causes those who don't use it
to
> be motivated by their actions?
Well, if I were still flying using a Continental engine, I'd use it every
time I hit the pattern. The one I had in my C172 would ice up in a
heartbeat. I've been flying behind Lycomings since 1990 and have yet to get
icing in the pattern that I could tell.
Carb heat just isn't needed because of the way they've got things set up.
In fact, the manual for my Cheetah didn't call for it, either. With that, I
got used to not using it. Since I'm still using a Lycoming in my RV, I'd
have to figure that it works like the one in the Cheetah. Actually, it does
better. :-)
Now, for you guys who are determined to use carb heat in the pattern, by all
means do it. However, it's just like auto gas. You won't crash and burn
from using auto gas. You won't crash and burn from not using carb heat at
every landing. Please don't cut us down because we don't use it.
Experience has shown that it's not needed like it is with a Continental.
Jim Sears in KY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
Paul,
Here are my biased opinions:
1. Stay away from vacuum systems.
2. For little more than the price of an electric gyro you could buy a second
Dynon, or a Blue Mountain.
3. I bought a TruTrak electric 2-1/4" electric pictorial turn & bank as a
back-up attitude instrument for my Blue Mountain EFIS/one
4. TruTrak is supposed to be developing a version with pitch information
too, and for real back-up, get their (or someone else's) wing leveler.
5. Panel space is a scarce commodity on your 8A panel, so 2-1/4" is much
better than 3-1/8"
6. Consider a back-up battery for one of the attitude instruments, or a
redundant electrical system
7. The nice little electric 2-1/4" attitude gyro's will cost more than your
Garmin 430 and the Dynon combined
Terry
RV-8A #80729 finishing (I hope)
Seattle
I'm in the early instrument panel planning stage for my RV-8A. I am
going to probably buy the Dynon EFIS / EMS package with a Gamin 430 if I
can save up the bucks, but also want to have a separate "Standby"
attitude indicator. I'm having difficulty identifying suppliers - or
learning of the goods and others about the options. Anyone have any
biased opinions (now that's a unique concept for this group) about
available products?
Paul Valovich
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com> |
"vansairforce"
| Subject: | Headsets.....again... |
Ok, I know we have been over this before, I just got through ready the
archives...
I am thinking of getting some Bose X headsets, but want to know if anyone
has used any of these others before I spend the $$... I would also like to
know what your old headset was and how they compare...
Bose X (stereo) - www.bose.com - $995
Clarity Aloft (??) - www.clarityaloft.com - $550
Quiet Technologies (stereo) - www.quiettechnologies.com - $335
Panther Electronics (mono) - www.pantherelectronics.com - $599
Thanks in advance!
-Bill VonDane
bill(at)vondane.com
RV-8A - Colorado Springs
www.rv8a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Carburator heat on rvs |
Sorry if anyone thought I was cutting them down. That was not my intent. I
was taught flying by a CFI who has been teaching in Cessnas with Lycoming
engines in them for about 30 years. He is religious about using carb heat.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
Evansville, Indiana (just north of western Kentucky)
----- Original Message -----
From: <sears(at)searnet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Carburator heat on rvs
>
>
> > I am a bit surprised by more than just a couple of RVers that have
posted
> in
> > the past about not using Carb Heat. It should be good practice to use
> carb
> > heat when the throttle is reduced on a carburetor engine. This occurs
> when
> > we approach for landing. What harm or what causes those who don't use
it
> to
> > be motivated by their actions?
>
> Well, if I were still flying using a Continental engine, I'd use it every
> time I hit the pattern. The one I had in my C172 would ice up in a
> heartbeat. I've been flying behind Lycomings since 1990 and have yet to
get
> icing in the pattern that I could tell.
> Carb heat just isn't needed because of the way they've got things set up.
> In fact, the manual for my Cheetah didn't call for it, either. With that,
I
> got used to not using it. Since I'm still using a Lycoming in my RV, I'd
> have to figure that it works like the one in the Cheetah. Actually, it
does
> better. :-)
>
> Now, for you guys who are determined to use carb heat in the pattern, by
all
> means do it. However, it's just like auto gas. You won't crash and burn
> from using auto gas. You won't crash and burn from not using carb heat at
> every landing. Please don't cut us down because we don't use it.
> Experience has shown that it's not needed like it is with a Continental.
>
> Jim Sears in KY
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Carburator heat on rvs |
A Lycoming will not develop Carb Ice most of the time so leaving the carb
heat off is of no consequence.
HOWEVER when it happens and it will and has, if the carb heat is not on, it
will be too late upon the engine stoppage to reverse the icing as the engine
is not putting out enough heat to melt the ice as it forms. Then you are in
a big
heap of trouble and nothing you do after the fact will stop the icing.
Carb heat only works as a preventative, not as a solution. You won't lose
face by applying when it is not needed but you certainly will lose face if
you fail to apply before it is needed and have top make that forced, engine
out landing in a place not of your choosing.
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Carburator heat on rvs
>
> Sorry if anyone thought I was cutting them down. That was not my intent.
I
> was taught flying by a CFI who has been teaching in Cessnas with Lycoming
> engines in them for about 30 years. He is religious about using carb
heat.
>
> Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
>
> Evansville, Indiana (just north of western Kentucky)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <sears(at)searnet.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Carburator heat on rvs
>
>
> >
> >
> > > I am a bit surprised by more than just a couple of RVers that have
> posted
> > in
> > > the past about not using Carb Heat. It should be good practice to use
> > carb
> > > heat when the throttle is reduced on a carburetor engine. This occurs
> > when
> > > we approach for landing. What harm or what causes those who don't use
> it
> > to
> > > be motivated by their actions?
> >
> > Well, if I were still flying using a Continental engine, I'd use it
every
> > time I hit the pattern. The one I had in my C172 would ice up in a
> > heartbeat. I've been flying behind Lycomings since 1990 and have yet to
> get
> > icing in the pattern that I could tell.
> > Carb heat just isn't needed because of the way they've got things set
up.
> > In fact, the manual for my Cheetah didn't call for it, either. With
that,
> I
> > got used to not using it. Since I'm still using a Lycoming in my RV,
I'd
> > have to figure that it works like the one in the Cheetah. Actually, it
> does
> > better. :-)
> >
> > Now, for you guys who are determined to use carb heat in the pattern, by
> all
> > means do it. However, it's just like auto gas. You won't crash and
burn
> > from using auto gas. You won't crash and burn from not using carb heat
at
> > every landing. Please don't cut us down because we don't use it.
> > Experience has shown that it's not needed like it is with a Continental.
> >
> > Jim Sears in KY
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)access4less.net> |
RV-8 builders.
To anyone thinking of ordering one of the canopy latches as described in Sam Buchannan's
write up
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/rv8-latch.html
The address and phone No. has changed
New address: William Davis 2912 Rockport Lane, Mount Dora, FL 32757
352-383-5842
Thanks, Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Brass/Copper bus bar |
Rocket,
I brought this up on the list a year or so ago, and got flamed to shame.
Maybe they won't treat you so bad! Now I have 6, count 'em 6, contacts that
have to make before my starter will run. And so does almost everyone else with
an RV. You only have 4! There are two in each relay.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
In a message dated 1/26/05 3:32:53 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
rocketbob(at)gmail.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob J
> >A search of the local hardware stores only netted .025 copper to
> >connect my battery contactor and starter contactor. However, I found
some .062
> >brass.
Why do you need another starter contactor in the first place? There's
one built into the starter. Disconnect the jumper from the big
terminal on the starter, run a wire from it to your starter switch,
then a diode from the starter side of the switch to ground to prevent
arcing in the switch or contactor. I have had this setup since day
one on my -6 and have never had any trouble with it.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Standby Gyros |
Check out the new ADI from Trutrak.
http://www.rvtraining.com/html/new_products.html
They're not out yet but should be by Sun n Fun. I plan to put one in my
panel, in place of the whiskey compass, and in addition to the A/P.
Jeff Point
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Sweet" <w_sweet(at)comcast.net> |
,
| Subject: | Re: [VAF Mailing List] Headsets.....again... |
I flew with Bose Series I headsets for 10 years. Got the X model and the other
comments are exactly dead on; another very important characteristic is the very
excellent mic. You need not "eat" the darn mic any more; 1/2 " is the recommended
distance and it works super duper.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill VonDane
To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com ; RV-8(at)yahoogroups.com ; rv-list(at)matronics.com ; vansairforce
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2005 5:17 PM
Subject: [VAF Mailing List] Headsets.....again...
Ok, I know we have been over this before, I just got through ready the
archives...
I am thinking of getting some Bose X headsets, but want to know if anyone
has used any of these others before I spend the $$... I would also like to
know what your old headset was and how they compare...
Bose X (stereo) - www.bose.com - $995
Clarity Aloft (??) - www.clarityaloft.com - $550
Quiet Technologies (stereo) - www.quiettechnologies.com - $335
Panther Electronics (mono) - www.pantherelectronics.com - $599
Thanks in advance!
-Bill VonDane
bill(at)vondane.com
RV-8A - Colorado Springs
www.rv8a.com
Online help on this group at:
http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/
b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
vansairforce-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com
Try www.SPAMfighter.com for free now!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
| Subject: | Headsets.....again... |
I have used passive Peltors for years and like them. I have tried the active
Peltor/Senhiezer and did not feel they justified the cost. I own a Bose X
and love it. I also have a "weightless" ClarityAloft and find it to be as
good and in some ways better than the Bose. Some adv/disadv to both but I
consider either to be a great choice. www.clarityaloft.com
JOhn
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LARRY ADAMSON" <rvhi03(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Carburator heat on rvs |
----- Original Message -----
From: bertrv6(at)highstream.net
Subject: RV-List: Carburator heat on rvs
As previously stated, Lycoming uses a different method of attaching the carb, than
Continental.
The POH for the Piper Archer II with a 180HP Lycoming under " Approach and Landing"
states:
"Carburetor heat should NOT be applied unless there is an indication of carburetor
icing, since the use of carburetor heat causes a reduction in power which
may be critical in case of a go-around. Full throttle operation with carburetor
heat on can cause detonation."
Since I fly in rather high altitude areas to start with, where accidentally leaving
the heat during a go-around could cause problems, I've chosen not to use
carb heat as standard practice for approaches. I do know of one RV that ended
in a forced landing with wing damage (has been rebuilt) apparently due to carb
icing, but it was due to in-flight icing conditions
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Carburator heat on rvs |
Removal of carb heat and flaps is all part of the clean up to return to the
air.
At Least that is what my CFI told me 35 years ago.
----- Original Message -----
From: "LARRY ADAMSON" <rvhi03(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Carburator heat on rvs
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: bertrv6(at)highstream.net
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Carburator heat on rvs
>
> As previously stated, Lycoming uses a different method of attaching the
carb, than Continental.
>
> The POH for the Piper Archer II with a 180HP Lycoming under " Approach and
Landing" states:
>
> "Carburetor heat should NOT be applied unless there is an indication of
carburetor icing, since the use of carburetor heat causes a reduction in
power which may be critical in case of a go-around. Full throttle operation
with carburetor heat on can cause detonation."
>
> Since I fly in rather high altitude areas to start with, where
accidentally leaving the heat during a go-around could cause problems, I've
chosen not to use carb heat as standard practice for approaches. I do know
of one RV that ended in a forced landing with wing damage (has been rebuilt)
apparently due to carb icing, but it was due to in-flight icing conditions
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
| Subject: | Carburator heat on rvs |
{SNIP}
[JEC:] Comments below ...
|> I am a bit surprised by more than just a couple of RVers that have
|> posted in
|> the past about not using Carb Heat. It should be good practice to use
|> carb
|> heat when the throttle is reduced on a carburetor engine. This occurs
|> when
|> we approach for landing. What harm or what causes those who don't use
|> it to
|> be motivated by their actions?
|>
|> Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
[JEC:]
[JEC:] I tend not to use carb heat because the RV *appears* to be similar to
my Archer (II) and for that plane it recommended against unless there are
indications of icing.
[JEC:] I **think** I may have experienced the beginnings of carb ice twice
in 12 years of owning the plane. Once in a very high moisture situation
under reduced power and the second approaching an airport over a body of
water (reduced power). In both cases, I am not sure ...just think it *might*
have been just a little bit.
My partner (former Cessna owner) uses carb heat always on landing so when
she is in the plane with me and I am doing the flying I will use it as it
makes her feel more comfortable.
Since I trained in Cessnas (mainly 172's), I too was taught religiously to
use carb heat. When I bought the Piper, it really bothered me that the POH
said to NOT use it. So much so, I went out and bought a carb ice detector
for the carburetor and had it installed. It is amazing how quickly **SOME**
ice can build up and when it can build up. So much so the alarm became a
nuisance and I now keep it turned off as there always seemed o be some on
the ground while at idle although it did not affect the apparent performance
of the engine. But for a while it helped me feel better.
So to each his/her own. If I were in a Cessna, I would **ALWAYS** use it. In
the Piper I rarely (if ever) use it unless there is a change in the
sound/performance of the engine. In the RV6, I primarily use it when my
partner is there OR if I have been/am doing a lot of slower flying down low.
Your mileage may vary.
James
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Carburetor heat on RVs |
In a message dated 1/26/2005 6:21:37 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
bertrv6(at)highstream.net writes:
What is the practice with carburetor heat, on RV's? on rv6..
=======================
Bert-
I have a CAT gauge (VM1000) and I have never experienced carb ice or the
conditions that would cause it in my Lyc O-360-A1A under any conditions I have
flown in in the last 736 hrs, but I live on the left coast and generally fly
west of the Mississippi. I cruise high VFR when I cross the big hills we have
out west and, without carb heat on, normally see carb air temps about 5 deg
C above ambient. Since I can see what the carb air temp is, I never use carb
heat if it's not needed.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Bartrim" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Headsets.....again... |
Ok, I know we have been over this before, I just got through ready the
archives...
Quiet Technologies (stereo) - www.quiettechnologies.com - $335
Hi Bill;
I'm very pleased with the Auricomm from Quiet Tech. Very comfortable and
lightweight. Only time they were not ideal was during the taxi testing when
I was climbing in/out often and they were a bit of a pain to insert each
time. During normal flight use they are ideal!
Todd Bartrim
RV9Endurance
13B Turbo Rotary
C-FSTB
"The world will always have a place for those that bring hard
work and determination to the things they do."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GMC <gmcnutt(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi Jeff
I talked to Trutrak today about their ADI, I am thinking of it as a primary
flight instrument and I believe Trutrak could have a real winner here except
for one thing, there is no heading information, what is displayed is GPS
track (cheap) and a real shame as it will not (presently) be able to replace
both the Horizon and Directional Gyro.
If a magnetometer derived heading was displayed the Trutrak ADI would
replace the complete vacuum system & AH & DG.
I was also interested in the pitch mode, a gyro stabilized vertical speed. I
asked about slow flight, nose high level flight or descent and was told that
the ADI has a pitot input and low airspeed warning.
In Canada we need a source of heading that is not dependent on aircraft
electrical power so don't throw out that whiskey compass too soon.
George in Langley BC
6A flying
7A Wings
Check out the new ADI from Trutrak.
http://www.rvtraining.com/html/new_products.html
They're not out yet but should be by Sun n Fun. I plan to put one in my
panel, in place of the whiskey compass, and in addition to the A/P.
Jeff Point
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Standby Gyros |
Interesting. I went back and re-read the ad for this unit, and it is
somewhat confusing. The display looks like the heading display in the
Digitrak models. Do these use heading or are they GPS track as well? I
agree that actual heading would be much more useful. However my whiskey
compass is a already a backup to my Dynon w/ built in compass so I feel
OK swapping it out for the ADI.
Jeff Point
>In Canada we need a source of heading that is not dependent on aircraft
>electrical power so don't throw out that whiskey compass too soon.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Schreck" <ronschreck(at)webkorner.com> |
| Subject: | Starter contactor (was Brass/Copper Bus Bar) |
Excellent point! After I read this post I dove into Bob Nuckolls' "AeroElectric
Connection" and found that ALL of his sample electic wiring schematics have
a starter contactor. I have great respect for "Electric" Bob yet I see your
point as well. I'm hoping Bob will jump on this thread and shed some light on
this issue. Come in Bob!
Ron Schreck
RV-8
Gold Hill, NC
>>> Why do you need another starter contactor in the first place? There's
one built into the starter. Disconnect the jumper from the big
terminal on the starter, run a wire from it to your starter switch,
then a diode from the starter side of the switch to ground to prevent
arcing in the switch or contactor. I have had this setup since day
one on my -6 and have never had any trouble with it.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Headsets.....again... |
Hi Bill,
While I do not have experience with the Bose headsets, Dave and I have
Lightspeeds. Dave has the 20XL and I have the XCounrty ANR. THe 20 is more
comfortable but both work very effectively after 3 yrs. I only problem I had
was some crackling noise last summer. I called Lightspeed and they said to
send it in. A week later I had it back, it's now good as new and No Charge.
Chuck
>From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: , ,
>, "vansairforce"
>Subject: RV-List: Headsets.....again...
>Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2005 18:17:01 -0700
>
>
>Ok, I know we have been over this before, I just got through ready the
>archives...
>
>I am thinking of getting some Bose X headsets, but want to know if anyone
>has used any of these others before I spend the $$... I would also like to
>know what your old headset was and how they compare...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Changing out Air speed indicators |
>
> I just bought a Knots outer ring with true airspeed window from Vans,
> and was wondering if there is any caviats to removing/installing? (I
> didnt build the plane) this is on an RV6A Charlie heathco
>
One thing to be aware of is that each airspeed indicator has its own
instrument error. So depending on what the instrument error is on the
old and new ASIs, you may find that the indicated airspeed for a given
calibrated airspeed may change. Most ASIs probably have errors There
are two ways to address this:
1. Do a small flight test program with the new ASI to check stall
speeds and any other speeds that interest you, such as best glide
speed, or
2. Make a water manometer and measure the instrument error of each ASI
to see how they compare.
Info on how to make a water manometer:
http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/instcal/instcal.htm
Excel spreadsheet to convert between inches of water and the correct
ASI reading:
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rvlinks/asi2.zip
My list of links on pitot-static system calibrations:
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/phplinks/index.php?&PID=48
For info, my ASI has instrument errors of 2-3 kts at some speeds. This
seems to be typical. So if one ASI read 3 kt high, and the other one 3
kt low, you would see a change in IAS of 6 kt. But, I've seen reports
of some ASIs with errors of up to 10 kt. The instrument was obviously
not serviceable, but the owner had no way to know it until he had it
checked.
My ASI cal info:
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/article.php?
story 040418195119749
Kevin Horton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Headsets.....again... |
RV-8(at)yahoogroups.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com,
vansairforce
I just wanted to clarify... I already have a pair of Lightspeed QFR CC
ANR's, and I like them.....but lately some friends of mine have been trying
to get me to try their Bose X sets...
What I really want is one of the lightweight, headsetless (that's my new
word) headsets... I guess I should have left Bose out of the mix...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
; "vansairforce"
Subject: Headsets.....again...
Ok, I know we have been over this before, I just got through ready the
archives...
I am thinking of getting some Bose X headsets, but want to know if anyone
has used any of these others before I spend the $$... I would also like to
know what your old headset was and how they compare...
Bose X (stereo) - www.bose.com - $995
Clarity Aloft (??) - www.clarityaloft.com - $550
Quiet Technologies (stereo) - www.quiettechnologies.com - $335
Panther Electronics (mono) - www.pantherelectronics.com - $599
Thanks in advance!
-Bill VonDane
bill(at)vondane.com
RV-8A - Colorado Springs
www.rv8a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: TEE for heater |
I'm planing to use the "Y" that Van's or ACS sells. Have my "box"
mounted but haven't done the inside plumbing yet.
Regards,
Bob
>
> I'm installing my hot-air box on the firewall. I'd like to have it
> connect to a simple tee on the cabin side of the firewall. One side of
> the Tee would go to each side of the plane. My problem is I can't find
> a 2" tee anywhere. Van's has a very fancy tee with 2 flapper valves in
> it, but I don't want the 2 valves or the $90 price tag. I guess I
> could make something, but little projects like this seem to take a lot
> of time.
>
> Does anybody know where I can buy something like this?
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, firewall
>
>
>
--
Thanks,
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Marshall" <tony(at)lambros.com> |
| Subject: | Electric Artificial Horizon for Sale |
RC Allen electric horizon gyro....looks new, functions new. Chief part number
RCA 26AK4. Purchased new Jan03 $1,695. Needs to be tilted for RV6 ($200) or
mounting wedge can be used. What's it worth?
Tony Marshall
www.lambros.com
P.O. Box 906
Polson, MT 59860
800-432-6828 Office
406-249-0835 Cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Nellis <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Starter contactor (was Brass/Copper Bus Bar) |
Bob doesn't monitor all the lists anymore since the Aeroelectric list
was formed a few years ago. The Aeroelectric List is a great place to
get help with electrical questions. Many highly skilled and qualified
people take part on that list, in addition to Bob. You can forward this
thread to aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com and I'm sure you'll get a
quick reply. Better yet just subscribe to the list
http://matronics.com/subscribe
Ron Schreck wrote:
>
>Excellent point! After I read this post I dove into Bob Nuckolls' "AeroElectric
Connection" and found that ALL of his sample electic wiring schematics have
a starter contactor. I have great respect for "Electric" Bob yet I see your
point as well. I'm hoping Bob will jump on this thread and shed some light on
this issue. Come in Bob!
>
>Ron Schreck
>RV-8
>Gold Hill, NC
>
>
>
>
>>>> Why do you need another starter contactor in the first place? There's
>>>>
>>>>
> one built into the starter. Disconnect the jumper from the big
> terminal on the starter, run a wire from it to your starter switch,
> then a diode from the starter side of the switch to ground to prevent
> arcing in the switch or contactor. I have had this setup since day
> one on my -6 and have never had any trouble with it.
>
> Regards,
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 flying F1 under const.
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Mike Nellis
Austin, TX
CMRA #32 Honda RC51
'97 YZF1000
'47 Stinson 108-2; RV6 (Fuselage)
http://bmnellis.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Jurotich <mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Carburator heat on rvs |
Carb heat is required on my RV 6A with Lycoming O-360-xxx (new from Van's)
with Ellison Throttle body. It has actually iced up on take off in really
damp conditions. i.e. Dew point only 2 degs above temperature of about 65 F.
Matthew M. Jurotich
NASA/Goddard Space Flight Center
Swales contractor to the
JWST ISIM Systems Engineer
m/c : 443
e-mail mail to:
phone : 301-286-5919
fax : 301-286-7021
JWST URL: <http://ngst1.gsfc.nasa.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Starter contactor (was Brass/Copper Bus Bar) |
If you don't use a separate starter contactor, you will have a huge (i.e.
2AWG) "always hot" wire capable of delivering hundreds of amps going to the
starter, which I personally consider a safety risk. By using the separate
starter contactor, you can keep the starter's power source wire COLD at all
times other than startup cranking.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Schreck" <ronschreck(at)webkorner.com>
Subject: RV-List: Starter contactor (was Brass/Copper Bus Bar)
>
> Excellent point! After I read this post I dove into Bob Nuckolls'
"AeroElectric Connection" and found that ALL of his sample electic wiring
schematics have a starter contactor. I have great respect for "Electric"
Bob yet I see your point as well. I'm hoping Bob will jump on this thread
and shed some light on this issue. Come in Bob!
>
> Ron Schreck
> RV-8
> Gold Hill, NC
>
>
> >>> Why do you need another starter contactor in the first place?
There's
> one built into the starter. Disconnect the jumper from the big
> terminal on the starter, run a wire from it to your starter switch,
> then a diode from the starter side of the switch to ground to
prevent
> arcing in the switch or contactor. I have had this setup since day
> one on my -6 and have never had any trouble with it.
>
> Regards,
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 flying F1 under const.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Starter contactor (was Brass/Copper Bus Bar) |
> The way I see it with my non electrical mind is the starter contactor
setup
> allows you to keep your "large" wires forward of the firewall in an effort
> to reduce noise. In my setup a 2AWG wire is called out between battery
> contactor/starter contactor and starter sol. Only a 20AWG wire is called
> out going between the main bus bar/push to start button and switch
terminal
> on the starter contactor. Maybe I'm missing something but if I
"Disconnect
> the jumper from the big
> > terminal on the starter, run a wire from it to your starter
switch,
> > then a diode from the starter side of the switch to ground to
> >prevent
> > arcing in the switch or contactor." I've got a big wire
penetrating
> >my firewall where I don't want one.
Dana,
You could still avoid a large wire penetrating/behind the firewall if you
didn't use a separate starter contactor. You would still have the 2AWG wire
running only from the battery contactor to the starter, and the small wire
would run from your starter switch (panel) to the solenoid on the starter
(i.e. Sky-Tec).
As I mentioned in my previous email, the "problem" with doing this is that
the 2AWG wire would be energized any time the master switch was on. Having
such a huge wire be "always hot" is a risk imho.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Carburetor heat on RVs |
>bertrv6(at)highstream.net writes:
>What is the practice with carburetor heat, on RV's? on rv6..
I think you should install a good carb heat system on your RV. My suggestion, is
at minimum, install Van's Carb Heat set-up per (plans)**. It is cheap, light
and compact. Even though your RV is experimental, it is a regulatory requirement
for certified aircraft to have Carb heat. I think it is wise to include carb
heat as a required system.
**(Uses a solid #10 threaded push-pull cable for CH cont'l, not the thin wire type,
which will break in 100-200 hours.)
>bertrv6(at)highstream.net writes:
>I cruise high VFR when I cross the big hills we have out west and, without carb
heat on, >normally see carb air temps about 5 deg C above ambient. Since I
can see what the carb >air temp is, I never use carb heat if it's not needed.
I am not sure what the point is: Clear of clouds, dry air (high altitudes), higher
cruse power and no carb ice. So? Carb ice is possible w/ carb air temp's
between ( -10c to +10c), add moisture, reduced power setting you can get carb
ice. You can find testimonials saying it never happens, as well as those who
have experienced it. Carb ice can, will and does happen in the right conditions,
even in a RV with a Lycoming. Consider it insurance.
Cheers George (RV-4 O-320, RV-7 O-360 project)
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re:Carb heat on Lycomings |
In almost 30 years of flying a Lycoming-equipped 172, I found slight carb
ice with some frequency, only detected because I had a manifold pressure
gage. You have MINOR ice more often than you realize! All of the carb ice that
could be detected from POWER LOSS was on one trip!
Yet, I always did an ice check before landing, not a good time to be
trouble shooting! Also worth noting, EGT is a good detector of slight icing in
cruise. Venturi ice makes the mixture richer and EGT falls. That richer
mixture initially conceals the small loss of manifold pressure.
Paul S. Petersen, RV6A (90%) with son Eric
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: TEE for heater |
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Bend and piece of 2x2" .025 AL 90 degrees. Tack or JB weld it to the 2"
exit tube on the heater box. It will divert the air to each side. Make
sense?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
>>
>> I'm installing my hot-air box on the firewall. I'd like to have it
>> connect to a simple tee on the cabin side of the firewall. One side of
>> the Tee would go to each side of the plane. My problem is I can't find
>> a 2" tee anywhere. Van's has a very fancy tee with 2 flapper valves in
>> it, but I don't want the 2 valves or the $90 price tag. I guess I
>> could make something, but little projects like this seem to take a lot
>> of time.
>>
>> Does anybody know where I can buy something like this?
>> --
>> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, firewall
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross S" <rv7maker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Headsets.....again... |
Bill,
I have a set of 15XLs for my self and a set of QFR solos for the passenger.
I figured I better get a new set of ANR's due to the RV rumble, I was
thinking about getting a bose X unit, but after demoing, I bough a new set
of lightspeed 3G's and they work great. I put them on in my truck and I
couldn't hear anything, kind of an uneasy feeling! In the plane they are
quiet enough you feel like you can talk in a normal voice to your passenger.
The Cell phone interface is excellent. I called my wife and she figured I
was at the office. If I hadn't needed to respond to the tower I would have
gotten away with the hole deal. I'll give you a call next time I am up and
you can be the judge.
-Ross
RV-7 Driver....finally
>From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: Bill VonDane , rv8-list(at)matronics.com,
>RV-8(at)yahoogroups.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com, vansairforce
>
>Subject: RV-List: Re: Headsets.....again...
>Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2005 08:00:53 -0700
>
>
>I just wanted to clarify... I already have a pair of Lightspeed QFR CC
>ANR's, and I like them.....but lately some friends of mine have been trying
>to get me to try their Bose X sets...
>
>What I really want is one of the lightweight, headsetless (that's my new
>word) headsets... I guess I should have left Bose out of the mix...
>
>-Bill
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
>To: ; ;
>; "vansairforce"
>Subject: Headsets.....again...
>
>
>Ok, I know we have been over this before, I just got through ready the
>archives...
>
>I am thinking of getting some Bose X headsets, but want to know if anyone
>has used any of these others before I spend the $$... I would also like to
>know what your old headset was and how they compare...
>
>Bose X (stereo) - www.bose.com - $995
>Clarity Aloft (??) - www.clarityaloft.com - $550
>Quiet Technologies (stereo) - www.quiettechnologies.com - $335
>Panther Electronics (mono) - www.pantherelectronics.com - $599
>
>Thanks in advance!
>
>-Bill VonDane
>bill(at)vondane.com
>RV-8A - Colorado Springs
>www.rv8a.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Carburetor heat on RVs |
Carb ice is possible over a much larger temp range than -10 to 10-deg C.
I've posted this carb ice link before. Here it is again.
I have had one significant instance of carb ice after about 700 hrs in my
carbureted -320 powered -8. As I recall, it occurred at about 65-deg F.
http://www.ez.org/carb_ice.htm
Bryan Jones
>I am not sure what the point is: Clear of clouds, dry air (high altitudes),
>higher cruse power and no carb ice. So? Carb ice is possible w/ carb air
>temp's between ( -10c to +10c), add moisture, reduced power setting you can
>get carb ice. You can find testimonials saying it never happens, as well
>as those who have experienced it. Carb ice can, will and does happen in the
>right conditions, even in a RV with a Lycoming. Consider it insurance.
>
>Cheers George (RV-4 O-320, RV-7 O-360 project)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jon Croke" <jon(at)joncroke.com> |
| Subject: | How to License Your Homebuilt Aircraft |
This is an announcement that www.HomebuiltHELP.com has just completed production, and the release of their latest DVD video presentation: "How to License Your Homebuilt Aircraft". (for the U.S.)
To the best of my knowledge, this is the first comprehensive DVD video that explains
in detail the complete licensing process for experimental amateur built
aircraft - showing what/how/when to fill out the forms, the inspection process,
and also demonstrating new capabilities such as reserving an N number by going
online and using the FAA website.
I'll leave it at that, as full details are available at the www.HomebuiltHELP.com website.
Thanks!
Jon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Lycoming - tractor engine or turbine smooth? |
The only data on smoothness of 3 vs 2 blades has been subjective. The best documented
tests came from Van's and Randy @
http://www.rv-8.com/Prop.htm
Most of the data is geared towards performance. What I gather Pros for 3 blades
are: slightly better climb, better prop tip ground clearance and less takeoff
noise. As far as vibration the best of the 2 blades were equivalent to 3 blades.
The cons of 3 blades are they cost more, weigh more and have less cruise
and top speed.
I think a Lyc is going to shake and there is only so much a prop will do. Turbine
smooth? From what I heard, material of the blades has more to do with smoothness,
and the smoothest props are made from "God's Composite," Wood. It would
be nice to have actual flight test measurements with accelerometers vs the "seat-O-pant"
measurement. A well balanced prop is a well balanced prop. The big
boys (large real turbines) have more blades to absorb more shaft HP and make
it quite, not smoothness.
Someone made a comment about props flying off, 2 vs 3, and the 2 blade would flop
around and the 3 blade would not? Not sure what that means, but I have seen
2 blade props come off model planes and go straight and far directly in the
line of thrust. Balanced is balanced.
Cheers G, RV-7 O-360 Hartzell (2 blades - teeth shaking, just a joke ;-)
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GMC <gmcnutt(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi Jeff
Agreed that the Trutrak information is confusing, even my Pictorial Pilot
installation & users guide, is not very enlightening.
The Pictorial Pilot shows a GPS track on the display, and if there is no
valid GPS signal the display is blank.
Without GPS signal the Pictorial Pilot will be in "heading hold" using a
built in magnetometer to stabilize the gyros. My guess is that the built in
magnetometer is not accurate enough to show actual heading information. I
assume that their other autopilots and the ADI are similar.
In my discussion with Trutrak yesterday they said that if there was enough
customer interest in heading information it could be added, so add your name
(with mine) to their list.
I agree with others that heading information has become redundant for VFR
but it is still necessary for IFR flight.
George in Langley BC
Interesting. I went back and re-read the ad for this unit, and it is
somewhat confusing. The display looks like the heading display in the
Digitrak models.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | james freeman <flyeyes(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: lighted panel |
That was probably Paul Besing's RV6, done by Steve Davis. I don't have
the url handy, but Paul monitors the list
On Jan 27, 2005, at 12:55 PM, Evan and Megan Johnson wrote:
>
>
> A while back I had a link to a super nice lighted panel which I have
> apparantly lost. It was a laser etched plastic overlay which made the
> whole thing light up like a sports car dash. Anybody know where on the
> web it is? Thanks in advance...
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: lighted panel |
In a message dated 1/27/05 1:33:48 PM Central Standard Time, flyeyes(at)mac.com
writes:
> That was probably Paul Besing's RV6, done by Steve Davis. I don't have
> the url handy, but Paul monitors the list
>>>>
Steve cut my panel and did a beautiful job, and also knows where to get some
kick-butt BBQ! Mine was not laser cut, but reversed-engraved from the back,
and I added LEDs for backlighting.
http://members.aol.com/panelcut/
Mark Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dcw(at)nomadwi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Carburetor heat on RVs |
Just to add another 2 cents worth to the carb heat issue. After 40 years of
flying and 4000 hours of dual given, I consider the use of CH very wise
insurance in all aircraft so equipped. Granted I agree with Cy that it is
much less likely in Lycoming engines due do to the intake configuration but
certainly there is no harm in it.
BUT, I have gotten carb ice in my 0-360 RV-4 on a 50 degree day with rather
damp conditions. A noticeable loss of rpm corrected by the application of
carb heat (this was in cruise by the way). I still recall the successful
forced landing of a C-172 at night (in the back parking lot of a shopping
mall) years ago in Dayton where I was instructing. The student claimed his
instructor said to never use carb heat... it was unnecessary in a Lycoming
powered Cessna 172. Well he proved otherwise and got away with it.
Doug Weiler
RV-4
Hudson, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Anywhere Map with XM Weather |
Where have anyone with XM weather put their WORX satellite receiver box? I
am about to "permanently" moont mine, but before I start drilling holes I
wondered if there was a better idea out there in RV-land. Mine is an RV6A.
John Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Anywhere Map with XM Weather |
I put mine in an old Lowrance GPS case with a USB hub and a 12-30volt power
supply for my Fujitsu tablet PC.
I made mine portable, because once you fly with WX Worx you will NEVER want
to fly anything very far from home without it.
I have tried the PDA versions of this product, and I think the Tablet
version is a better solution in many ways.
XM weather is a bigger deal than GPS. 70% of aircraft accidents are weather
related. As nice as GPS is, not many accidents are caused because people
got lost. XM Weather makes flying more dependable, and safer.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
WX Worx user since August
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
Subject: RV-List: Anywhere Map with XM Weather
>
> Where have anyone with XM weather put their WORX satellite receiver box? I
> am about to "permanently" moont mine, but before I start drilling holes I
> wondered if there was a better idea out there in RV-land. Mine is an RV6A.
>
> John Salida, CO
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Freeman <flyeyes(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Anywhere Map with XM Weather |
On Jan 27, 2005, at 5:35 PM, Doug Rozendaal wrote:
>
> I put mine in an old Lowrance GPS case with a USB hub and a 12-30volt
> power
> supply for my Fujitsu tablet PC.
>
> I made mine portable, because once you fly with WX Worx you will NEVER
> want
> to fly anything very far from home without it.
>
> I have tried the PDA versions of this product, and I think the Tablet
> version is a better solution in many ways.
>
>
Doug, I have to second this, except that I'm currently demoing a
bluetooth/PDA version to see if I like it. I have been flying with the
WxWorks/Fujitsu since last spring and feel naked going cross country
without it.
I was very interested in the PDA version since my RV8 should be flying
soon, although I've been more than happy with the tablet in a four
place aircraft. Do you find the tablet manageable in your RV4?
TIA
James Freeman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Anywhere Map with XM Weather |
Doug Rozendaal wrote:
>
> XM weather is a bigger deal than GPS. 70% of aircraft accidents are weather
> related. As nice as GPS is, not many accidents are caused because people
> got lost. XM Weather makes flying more dependable, and safer.
Doug, I agree. I suspect the future will show that XM weather will be
regarded as one of the greatest breakthroughs *ever* for aviation.
I'm wondering if it will be this year or next when Garmin, Lowrance,
etc, will introduce a handheld GPS with an XM receiver in the same box.....
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Gillespie Field/San Diego |
Hi gang,
Does anyone on the list have intimate knowledge about Gillespie field in
San Diego? I may be moving to the area of S/D and need to find a nice spot
for my RV-4. An affordable hangar would be great, but perhaps the moderate
weather would permit me to tie down outside. This will be a very long term
move ( as in retirement). Is Gillespie a good choice? And would one be able
to find a hangar or tiedown?
Any other ideas about fields or airparks in the Southern Cal area would be
very much appreciated. And of course, e-mail me offline if your post seems
un-RV-related.
Louis
-
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF "Miss Viagra"
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Anywhere Map with XM Weather |
Hi Sam,
Have you looked at this recent Garmin offering?
http://www.garmin.com/products/iQue3600a/
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Anywhere Map with XM Weather
>
> Doug Rozendaal wrote:
>
>>
>> XM weather is a bigger deal than GPS. 70% of aircraft accidents are
>> weather
>> related. As nice as GPS is, not many accidents are caused because people
>> got lost. XM Weather makes flying more dependable, and safer.
>
>
> Doug, I agree. I suspect the future will show that XM weather will be
> regarded as one of the greatest breakthroughs *ever* for aviation.
>
> I'm wondering if it will be this year or next when Garmin, Lowrance,
> etc, will introduce a handheld GPS with an XM receiver in the same
> box.....
>
> Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming - tractor engine or turbine smooth? |
The primary vibration is being transmitted through the airframe by the
engine. There may be second vibrations as many have suggested.
Scott's description below seems to be the best way to visualize the cause of
the vibration.
Regardless of the engine having 4 cylinders or 6 cylinders (my testing was
done on both), I was told that there is a second order harmonic with a 2 blade
propeller that is not present with a 3 blade propeller. All my testing did
was confirm that the second order harmonic was there for the 2 blade
propellers, and was not there for the 3 blade propellers. And that the difference
in
vibration level was significant, rather than insignificant.
All propellers tested were from certified propeller manufacturers. The 3
blade propellers were lighter than the 2 blade propellers. Yes. 3 blades
lighter than 2 blade. (Actually, one of the 2 blade propellers weighed about
the
same as the 3 blade propeller.)
(I have heard that the 4 blade propeller is smoother than the 3 blade
propeller. However, this is still a future project.) :-)
Regards,
Jim Ayers
PS I only take the digest on this list, so my response is usually slow.
In a message dated 01/27/2005 12:00:14 AM Pacific Standard Time,
rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
3 blade props are always smoother. 2 blade props are not naturally
balanced, meaning, spin up a 2 blade prop and let it fly off the mounting
flange, and it will tumble around and drop to the ground. Do the same thing
with a 3 blade prop and it will take off and go much further with no
tumbling before dropping to the ground. Does this make sense?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Anywhere Map with XM Weather |
Jim Jewell wrote:
>
> Hi Sam,
>
> Have you looked at this recent Garmin offering?
> http://www.garmin.com/products/iQue3600a/
Yes, I have seen that one, but it is just a GPS map repackaged in a Palm
platform...still old tech, just an attempt to outmaneuver AnyWhereMap.
What is going to be cool is having a portable GPS color map with terrain
database packaged with an XM realtime weather receiver.....all in one
little box. Bet it happens inside of 24 months!
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Anywhere Map with XM Weather |
I bet I bet the Raven has it first. That would be a real shot in the
arm for Control Vision.
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
>Jim Jewell wrote:
>
>
>>
>>Hi Sam,
>>
>>Have you looked at this recent Garmin offering?
>>http://www.garmin.com/products/iQue3600a/
>>
>>
>
>
>Yes, I have seen that one, but it is just a GPS map repackaged in a Palm
>platform...still old tech, just an attempt to outmaneuver AnyWhereMap.
>
>What is going to be cool is having a portable GPS color map with terrain
>database packaged with an XM realtime weather receiver.....all in one
>little box. Bet it happens inside of 24 months!
>
>Sam Buchanan
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Anywhere Map with XM Weather |
> Where have anyone with XM weather put their WORX satellite
> receiver box? I
> am about to "permanently" moont mine, but before I start
> drilling holes I
> wondered if there was a better idea out there in RV-land.
> Mine is an RV6A.
>
> John Salida, CO
John, I too am pondering that question. I think I may make a little bracket
which clamps on to the flange on the top of the seat back, onto which I can
fasten the gps and XM antenna. The WXworx receiver will velcro to the aft
side of the seat back, at the floor level.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 569 hours
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brass/Copper bus bar |
In a message dated 1/26/05 11:37:00 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Hopperdhh(at)aol.com writes:
<< This is not a bus bar in the usual sense, like one that connects a row
of circuit breakers together. >>
Dan: Got it. You are connecting the master relay to the starter relay. I
missed that distinction in the original post. I used a short length of #4
welding cable for that purpose. As several others have already stated, brass or
copper, your choice. Either will work just as well for that purpose.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, flying, but also grounded because of the lousy weather in my assigned
test area.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Van's deluxe tailwheel spring set |
Has anyone installed one of the so called "deluxe tail wheel springs" that
Van's is offering? From the picture in the on-line catalog I can't tell how
they are installed or how they work.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, flying!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Schreck" <ronschreck(at)webkorner.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel pressure connection |
I have the AFP fuel injection on my RV-8 and it has a guage connection for fuel
pressure on the flow divider. I also have a connector on the output fitting
of my engine driven fuel pump. Which connection should I use? Does it matter?
Ron Schreck
RV-8
Gold Hill, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: What metal is it? |
I would tell you friend to either build the airplane by the plans or don't
build it at all.
BClary
RV-6A
75TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Turbo Tom.. A good friend will be missed |
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
Many of you know Turbo Tom Wyatt(TT), a pilot, RV'er, gentle man from
the Atlanta area. He and his close friend Barbara were killed instantly
yesterday in a car accident. TT has contributed to this list over the
years. He was a writer and contributor of several aviation magazines
most notable Kit Planes that he was doing a series of articles. He was
also a glider pilot, Tow pilot, and a genius when it came to engines and
fiberglass. He would get calls from engine race teams around the world
and be flown to locations to work out engine problems. I have watched
him in action, with laptop in hand teching out over a race engine,
tweaking her out with all the techno geek things he could do with
computers and engines. He was good. Have you ever seen a hand molded
intake plenum beautifully sculpted out of carbon fiber to exacting
specs? It was amazing what he could do with glass. A real craftsman.
Here is a recent picture of his Carbon Fiber hand molded panel from his
RV-8.
http://www.mstewart.net/deletesoon/ttpanel.jpg
He was working on is RV-8, finishing up the electrical. He was planning
a Franklin engine. He had the hots for that smoooooth engine. TT never
did anything normal. Always trying new things. Never following the
others. Always going off in new uncharted territory based on his
extensive experiences with the mechanics of things. Oh and man was he
stubborn! Try and talk him out of doing something. FORGET IT!
His closest friend was Bob Goodman, Subob we call him for the Subaru
engine he ran to the Sun 100 first place in class 2 years ago. TT kept
that thing running fast. An RV-4 turbo charged Subaru that would go like
you wouldn't believe. TT put that whole setup together. A proud papa
when his best friend ran her to first place in that race.
I just had dinner with em both recently at my house. One of the nicest,
most helpful guys you could ever meet. He will be missed.
If you were close to TT and know his family or close friends, please
contact me off list.
Regards,
Mike Stewart
S8 FWF
Gonna Miss you TT. You taught me a lot.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Anywhere Map with XM Weather |
> Do you find the tablet manageable in your RV4?
>
> TIA
>
> James Freeman
>
Yes, the Fujitsu LT-600 works fine in the RV-4. I have tried a Xplore 104
in the -4 and it is too big. I may buy the Xplore 104 to use in bigger
airplanes.
For those considering using a laptop in an airplane, forget it. IT DOES NOT
WORK. A tablet with touchscreen and a daylight viewable display is a must.
Another thing to consider is, that harddrives do not like altitudes above 10
to 12K feet. The head is an airfoil that flies above the surface of the
drive on a few molecules of air. I have used my Fujitsu up to 12.5 but
never higher.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gabe A Ferrer" <ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Carburator Heat on RV's |
My EIS (Engine Information System) monitors the carburetor temperature in my RV6's
Lycoming 0-360.
In 144 hours of flight it has never detected icing conditions in my carburetor.
I've flown about 110 hours in Florida. The rest in cross country flights to New
Mexico, Colorado, Illinois and Arkansas. In the spring, summer and fall.
I never use carburetor heat, but my experience is limited. I have only about 700
hours of total flight time. And I'm open minded about changing my flight procedures.
Just a data point.
Gabe A Ferrer
RV6 N2GX 144 hours
South Florida
ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net
cell: 561 758 8894
________________________________________________________________________________
drug
Refers to an erectile drug
to an erectile drug
All around best field in my opinion is Gillespie field due to costs and
weather, meaning costal fog. Ramona is very nice but cost about 35% more
for a hanger and is a long drive from.....well I dont know where you want
to live so maybe Ramona would be best for you. Have you seen the average
house prices out here OUCH!
>
>Hi gang,
>
>Does anyone on the list have intimate knowledge about Gillespie field in
>San Diego? I may be moving to the area of S/D and need to find a nice spot
>for my RV-4. An affordable hangar would be great, but perhaps the moderate
>weather would permit me to tie down outside. This will be a very long term
>move ( as in retirement). Is Gillespie a good choice? And would one be able
>to find a hangar or tiedown?
>
>Any other ideas about fields or airparks in the Southern Cal area would be
>very much appreciated. And of course, e-mail me offline if your post seems
>un-RV-related.
>
>Louis
>
>
>-
>Louis I Willig
>1640 Oakwood Dr.
>Penn Valley, PA 19072
>610 668-4964
>RV-4, N180PF "Miss Viagra"
>190HP IO-360, C/S prop
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Henry Hochberg <aeroncadoc(at)comcast.net> |
Refers to an erectile drug
Scott Bilinski Refers to an erectile drug wrote:
Just out of curiousity, in the header there is this little "additive"
attached. Is this a virus, or a spam deflector? Or you advertising Cialis?
Henry H.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: What metal is it? |
The reason he wants to weld it (my guess) is that this is one of the options offered
by Gus @ Vans for "what to do after the bolt hole wallows out and lets the
nose gear leg develop all kinds of lateral play" after a few hundred hours
or less. Or he can fool with trying to get a reamer in those tight quarters for
a tapered clevis, or he can weld a gussett plate over the hole and re-drill
for a close tolerance bolt, or he can use JB weld and hope it takes the slop
out for a few hours, etc etc,etc... I've been on the phone / heard that / "getting
the T-shirt" soon, I think.
I love nose gear aircraft (for the same reasons that the military, commercial and
insurance sectors of modern avaition all do, so don't start the "sissy wheel"
thing with me ;-), but Van's engineering of RV nosegear leaves a ton to be
desired, IMO.
-Stormy
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | What metal is it? |
Let me add that if I didn't have to remove the nose gear leg to drop the FAB for
servicing the air filter, mine would be welded in place aready. Nothing a grinder
couldn't remove in a pinch, but welded just the same.
-Stormy
...living with the torsional shimmy/slop for now...
________________________________________________________________________________
drug
Refers to an erectile drug
to an erectile drug
Yea I saw that.........after I hit send, not sure what to think.
>
>Scott Bilinski Refers to an erectile drug wrote:
>
>Just out of curiousity, in the header there is this little "additive"
>attached. Is this a virus, or a spam deflector? Or you advertising Cialis?
>
>Henry H.
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <spudnut(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: What metal is it? |
My nose gear socket developed some slop and I had Van send me the insert
that goes in the motor mount socket for replacement. Used a grinder to
remove the welds that held the insert in and then welded the replacement
insert in its place. Fixed my problem-major work was removing the motor
mount to work on it.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: <SportAV8R(at)aol.com>
> Let me add that if I didn't have to remove the nose gear leg to drop the
> FAB for servicing the air filter, mine would be welded in place aready.
> Nothing a grinder couldn't remove in a pinch, but welded just the same.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | What metal is it? |
There are a few times when I have refused to help people. Well this is one
of them, I would not help them in the slightest. Kind of makes me wonder
that if he is taking the welding approach to the nose gear, what else has
he done on the plane thats out in left field? Very scary.
>
>Let me add that if I didn't have to remove the nose gear leg to drop the
>FAB for servicing the air filter, mine would be welded in place
>aready. Nothing a grinder couldn't remove in a pinch, but welded just the
>same.
>
>-Stormy
>...living with the torsional shimmy/slop for now...
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Undersize drill for landing gear bolts |
Listers,
My thought is that if the hole is close to begin with, then it is not as
likely to wallow out. You should have to almost drive the bolt in to the gear
leg and bracket (with a little LPS-3 on it).
I measured the diameter of the kit supplied bolts with a micrometer, then
looked through all my assortment of bits hoping to find one that was about .002
inch under 5/16 inch for a good match.
I found almost all of my 5/16 high speed steel bits were very close to the
same size. However, I discovered, almost by accident, that all of the drill
bits were tapered -- getting progressively smaller as you went away from the
cutting end of the bit. I was able to get the bit about .002 inch undersized
by cutting it in two at about half of its original length with a grinder.
You can then re-sharpen the bit and it will still be long enough to drill
through the gear leg and mount. You can re-sharpen hss bits much more
successfully than the titanium bits that we get from Avery.
Of course, you should have already drilled the hole about 19/64 inch (1/64
under 5/16) before you drill this finish hole. This is a poor man's
substitute for a reamer, I guess. Reamers are hard to come by out here in the
sticks!
It worked great for me. YMMV.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A
N766DH (Flying since last July)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: What metal is it? |
Why do you have to remove the nose gear to service the Fab Air Box?? I have
a 360-A1A in my RV6-A and added the dimple in the back of the box per the
plans. There is know problem removing the air box for servicing?
If the nose gear is being removed over and over I think you have
found the main reason for the bolt hole wear and slop. Just my thoughts for
what they are worth.
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: <SportAV8R(at)aol.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: What metal is it?
>
> Let me add that if I didn't have to remove the nose gear leg to drop the
> FAB for servicing the air filter, mine would be welded in place aready.
> Nothing a grinder couldn't remove in a pinch, but welded just the same.
>
> -Stormy
> ...living with the torsional shimmy/slop for now...
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel pressure connection |
> I have the AFP fuel injection on my RV-8 and it has a guage connection for
fuel pressure on the flow divider. I also have a connector on the output
fitting of my engine driven fuel pump. Which connection should I use? Does
it matter?
Use the one on the engine-driven fuel pump. The pressure we're concerned
with is the pressure being provided to the fuel controller/servo.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel pressure connection |
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on zoot.lafn.org
Yes it matters. You won't get actual system fuel pressure from the flow
divider, it must be connected to the output of the mechanical pump.
Pressure at the flow divider will be reduced according to the throttle
setting.
Dave -6 So Cal
EAA Technical Advisor
Ron Schreck wrote:
>
>I have the AFP fuel injection on my RV-8 and it has a guage connection for fuel
pressure on the flow divider. I also have a connector on the output fitting
of my engine driven fuel pump. Which connection should I use? Does it matter?
>
>Ron Schreck
>RV-8
>Gold Hill, NC
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel pressure connection clamav-milter version 0.80j |
on zoot.lafn.org
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
OK then why does my Bendix divider have a "gage" port?
Something different?
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Bristol
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel pressure connection clamav-milter version
0.80j on zoot.lafn.org
Yes it matters. You won't get actual system fuel pressure from the flow
divider, it must be connected to the output of the mechanical pump.
Pressure at the flow divider will be reduced according to the throttle
setting.
Dave -6 So Cal
EAA Technical Advisor
Ron Schreck wrote:
>
>I have the AFP fuel injection on my RV-8 and it has a guage connection
for fuel pressure on the flow divider. I also have a connector on the
output fitting of my engine driven fuel pump. Which connection should I
use? Does it matter?
>
>Ron Schreck
>RV-8
>Gold Hill, NC
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel pressure connection clamav-milter version |
0.80j on zoot.lafn.org
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on zoot.lafn.org
Because on an airplane like a Bonanza, they use that pressure and
convert it to a fuel flow reading. Not as good as an actual fuel flow
meter, but it works.
Dave
Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta) wrote:
>
>OK then why does my Bendix divider have a "gage" port?
>Something different?
>Mike
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Bristol
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel pressure connection clamav-milter version
>0.80j on zoot.lafn.org
>
>
>Yes it matters. You won't get actual system fuel pressure from the flow
>divider, it must be connected to the output of the mechanical pump.
>Pressure at the flow divider will be reduced according to the throttle
>setting.
>
>Dave -6 So Cal
>EAA Technical Advisor
>
>
>Ron Schreck wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>>I have the AFP fuel injection on my RV-8 and it has a guage connection
>>
>>
>for fuel pressure on the flow divider. I also have a connector on the
>output fitting of my engine driven fuel pump. Which connection should I
>use? Does it matter?
>
>
>>Ron Schreck
>>RV-8
>>Gold Hill, NC
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel pressure connection clamav-milter version 0.80j |
on zoot.lafn.org
If you attach a pressure gauge to that port you can calibrate it in gallons
per hour. Before we had low cost flow meters that was about the only way
fuel flow was measured in GA airplanes. pressure is proportional to flow
through a known orifice(s). Not very accurate but pretty consistent.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
>
>
> OK then why does my Bendix divider have a "gage" port?
> Something different?
> Mike
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bertrv6(at)highstream.net |
| Subject: | Re: Carburator Heat on RV's |
Quoting Gabe A Ferrer :
>
> My EIS (Engine Information System) monitors the carburetor temperature in my
> RV6's Lycoming 0-360.
>
> In 144 hours of flight it has never detected icing conditions in my
> carburetor. I've flown about 110 hours in Florida. The rest in cross country
> flights to New Mexico, Colorado, Illinois and Arkansas. In the spring, summer
> and fall.
>
> I never use carburetor heat, but my experience is limited. I have only about
> 700 hours of total flight time. And I'm open minded about changing my flight
> procedures.
>
> Just a data point.
>
> Gabe A Ferrer
> RV6 N2GX 144 hours
> South Florida
> ferrergm(at)bellsouth.net
> cell: 561 758 8894
>
> Gabe:
Gabriel no? what nationality are you? I live in Orlando, Colombian'
building rv6a..
As to carbv heat, every one should use carb heat on landing always..
that is my believe.. I had a cherokee for a number of years, Lyc.0320 150 HP
the manual reccommends use of it ..
Finally, I know some one recked his rv6a due to carb ice, here in
Florida..
By the way you are Ferrer,, I am Forero....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
erectile drug
The original message refered to: a RV-4 "Miss Viagra" . . . probably a
spam filter inserted the info in the header?!
Regards,
Bob
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> wrote:
Refers to an erectile drug
>
> Yea I saw that.........after I hit send, not sure what to think.
>
> >
> >Scott Bilinski Refers to an erectile drug wrote:
> >
> >Just out of curiousity, in the header there is this little "additive"
> >attached. Is this a virus, or a spam deflector? Or you advertising Cialis?
> >
> >Henry H.
> >
> >
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
>
--
Thanks,
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net> |
| Subject: | Re: What metal is it? And fly-in inquiry |
Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta) wrote:
>
>Here is some more detail he just sent me. We don't always know the facts
>and should not assume the worst just cause we can.
>====
>Since I didn't build the plane I would have to have someone remove the
>engine and all and it would cost a ton. Was hoping to avoid that until
>it was absolutely necessary.
>
I don't know what he means by this. He wont have to have someone else
remove the engine . He can remove the engine.
My advise to this situation is to Weld a gusset on one side only. and
insert the gear leg into the socket and clamp and position it correctly.
Then drill it using the hole through the gear leg to help serve as a
guide. Then pull the gear out and weld a gusset to the other side,
Insert the gear leg back in and this time drill from the other side,
again using the gear leg to help with alignment after it is in the
correct position. I would use some pretty heavy sheet stock for the
gusset and I would Tig it . I havent looked at the plans much on the
nose dragger, but if there is room for the bolt, there should be room to
put in a good re-inforcement patch. He can do all this himself....
Phil in Illinois.......
Here Ye, Here Ye, Anyone out there interested in a 2 1/2 to 3 day
fly-in to small town Central Illinois in Mid or Late September? Just
testing the water, there are already several interested, but I need to
see what real interest there would be before we start the planning. If
there is interest, we are going to try to get City and Airport
Commission help. Barring a rainy weekend, the weather is usaully very
delightful here at that time of year.You could come for one day, 2 days
or 3 days... Camping can be on the airfield. Motels, and food joints are
all very close by and plentiful..
http://www.litchfieldil.com/airport/location.htm. With proper advance
planning, we could even have a few vendors here......... replies
requested........
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Carburator Heat on RV's |
> As to carbv heat, every one should use carb heat on landing always..
> that is my believe.. I had a cherokee for a number of years, Lyc.0320 150
HP
> the manual reccommends use of it ..
>
> Finally, I know some one recked his rv6a due to carb ice, here in
Florida..
Bert, I'm confused. I vaguely remember you were the one who started this
thread by asking if you should use carb heat. Is my memory failing? If
not, why ask the question if you've already formed an opinion? Of course,
it could be my memory working against me. One day this week, I forgot what
day it was. That happens when one retires. :-)
As for the carb heat cable, I think the nice cable mentioned earlier is good
because it's less likely to fail. It's a bit expensive, though. I have the
thin wire type with a B nut and have not had a bit of trouble with mine. I
have over 300 tach hours on my RV, which relates to about 340 actual hours.
Of course, your milage may vary. :-) Even if I don't use mine very often,
I still want it there. I guess mine could fail if I used it on every
landing. However, there is one thing I do use on every takeoff and landing.
The boost pump. Now, that one I can understand. :-)
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
RV-7A #70317 (Building tanks)
EAA Tech Counselor
EAA Flight Advisor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Sennheiser Headset special from Builder's Bookstore |
Thanks to everyone who gave their opinions on Sennheiser headsets (both on
and off the list) Without exception every comment was "as good as they get"
or "just like Bose, but without the high price".
Because of this and because one of our FBO customers wants them, I'm going
to take on the line. However, in order for us to qualify for their higher
dealer level, we must meet an initial order minimum.
So, to reach that quota, through Monday morning, here's a special sale.
Sennheiser model HMEC 25-KAS headsets
$625.00 each plus free shipping (within the US)
This is $54 less than Spruce and Sporty's plus free shipping.
The 25 KAS's are Sennheiser's top of the line headset for piston aircraft.
They are stereo with active noise cancelling in the earpieces and passive
cancelling in the mike and weigh just 5.9 ounces. We'll do similar sale
prices on other Sennheiser models too, but this is the model which we are
going carry on a regular basis.
For more detailed info, click here into the Sennheiser web site.
http://www.sennheiserusa.com/newsite/category.asp?transid=cat91
We don't yet have them listed in our catalogs, so if you'd like to order by
Monday, please do so by return e-mail or by phone
Thanks,
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
www.buildersbooks.com
800 870-4115
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: What metal is it? |
>>Why do you have to remove the nose gear to service the Fab Air Box?? I have
a 360-A1A in my RV6-A and added the dimple in the back of the box per the
plans. There is know problem removing the air box for servicing?<<
I don't think that dimple was on the plans in '94. I've never added it b/c it
doesn't look like the dimple required would allow the box to clear the filter
in the rear; maybe it's just my fairing installation that's funny in that way.
Never wanted to invest a weekend fiberglassing instead of flying in order to find
out, when dropping the leg only adds 15 minutes to the process. I don't think
the bolt going into and out of the hole a few times wore the hole :-)
-Stormy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel pressure connection |
Mike,
Checking the pressure at the spider would also aid in troubleshooting a
malfunctioning FI system.
Charlie
>
>If you attach a pressure gauge to that port you can calibrate it in gallons
>per hour. Before we had low cost flow meters that was about the only way
>fuel flow was measured in GA airplanes. pressure is proportional to flow
>through a known orifice(s). Not very accurate but pretty consistent.
>
>Tailwinds,
>Doug Rozendaal
>
>
> >
> >
> > OK then why does my Bendix divider have a "gage" port?
> > Something different?
> > Mike
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flying RVs in Greenbrier Valley (long) |
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on opie.wvnet.edu
My RV6 is the only RV at Lewisburg (LWB) West Virginia. We are about 10
miles from the world famous Greenbrier Hotel (at least they think it is
world famous). The Hotel during the cold war was the alternate site for
congress, all in underground nuclear proof bunkers. Above the bunkers is a
seemingly benign 5 star resort and spa.
So about three or four times a year congress decides to have a meeting at
the Greenbrier! I guess it is more fun for all of them to come to the
Greenbrier and conduct business, rather than stay in Washington DC. Of
course President Bush can not stay away either. He is visiting today.
My point is, from 2000 hrs Thrusday until sometime Sunday LWB is under a
5, 10 and 30 mile TFR. Prior to this TFR going into effect, Presidential
Security Officials have inspected my hanger. During the Presidential
arrival or departure at LWB, the airport is closed, I-64 is closed and if
you are at the airport you are forced inside away from all windows. If you
are not at the airport you will not be allowed on.
I am all in favor of Presidential security, but in this case it means my RV
is grounded for 3 days! For those who do not live anywhere close to where
the President or Congress would desire to visit, well you are lucky. I
just thought I would pass along that all is not perfect in paradise.
But, I did have one great flight last night before the TFR went into
effect. I took off just before sunset and it was cold, 10 degrees F. I
did some low level nap of the earth flying, out to my farm. I had as a
passenger an ex Vietnam F-4 pilot with me. He was impressed with the RV
(who isn't, what an airplane!). After I did a low level sneak attack on my
wife at the farm, we went up to about 5K and I let my passenger fly. He
couldn't believe how easy the RV is to keep in a 60-70 degree 2-3 G steep
turn. Steep turns are too much fun. In an RV I find it hard to do steep
turns without gaining a substantial amount of altitude.
Speaking of altitude, with two of us at gross weight and 2300 feet airport
elevation, I climbed out at 2000+FPM! While my partner was flying at about
5K he was climbing at 600 FPM and 140 knots IAS. Try that in a Mooney
(that is what he flys mostly). Later when I took over for landing, we were
doing 178 knots straigtht and level at 4500 feet with 22 inches of MP. I
have never seen a straight and level speeds so fast (it was cold). I have
the Micromontor flight instrument and love to check TAS, this was the first
time I have ever experienced an IAS higher than TAS? IAS when I checked
was 168 knots and TAS was 166 Knots. Regardless of the real speed, we were
moving.
On landing I was able to do my favorite approach. Military carrier
overhead approach. I am good friends with the guys in the control tower
and I have had numerous discussions about my approach techniques with
them. They love it and always give me approval even though I tell them if
there is other traffic not to let me mess up the pattern. Last night no
one was in the pattern so I went for it. I crossed the numbers at 600 AGL
and 171 knots, pulled up into a 3 G climbing turn cut the throttle and
climbed back to pattern altitude. By this time we were at 100knots and
ready to drop flaps. Full flaps and on final at 1200 AGL 2 miles out, time
to forward slip, crossed the numbers at 20 feet and 70 kts. An end to one
great flight! (I love the way an RV can be slipped to lose altitude on
final, no excuse for not making the field if the engine quits on final.)
When I was first deciding on what airplane to build at the EAA Arlington
Fly-in about 12 years ago. One of the speakers during the RV presentation
stated that the if the RV 3 was a 10 out of 10, then the RV4 would be a 9
and the RV6 would be an 8, with a Cessna 172 as a 3. If the RV6 is an 8,
then that RV3 must be some fun airplane. I can't even imagine flying
getting much better than an RV6. I would love to try out a RV3 someday to
see what a "10" is all about!
Bob RV6
NightFighter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
| Subject: | Re: Sennheiser Headset special from Builder's Bookstore |
I hope they are better than Bose as I wasn't overly impressed by Bose.
One thing that makes me not trust Bose and puts a lot of the hoopla into cult following
status is that Bose doesn't post any active and passive noise cancellation/reduction
info.
Kind of like GM never publishing the mpg on their Hummer....(the over 8600-lb gross
vehicle weight exempts H2s from EPA mileage-reporting program but GM isn't
going to tell you it gets about 10 - 11 mpg anyway - not that there's anything
wrong with that ;-) )
Also kind of like the folks who try to passionately tell you a Apple/Macintosh
computer is WAY better but when I use them I don't come away with that impression...
-------------- Original message --------------
>
>
> Thanks to everyone who gave their opinions on Sennheiser headsets (both on
> and off the list) Without exception every comment was "as good as they get"
> or "just like Bose, but without the high price".
>
> Because of this and because one of our FBO customers wants them, I'm going
> to take on the line. However, in order for us to qualify for their higher
> dealer level, we must meet an initial order minimum.
>
> So, to reach that quota, through Monday morning, here's a special sale.
>
> Sennheiser model HMEC 25-KAS headsets
> $625.00 each plus free shipping (within the US)
>
> This is $54 less than Spruce and Sporty's plus free shipping.
>
> The 25 KAS's are Sennheiser's top of the line headset for piston aircraft.
> They are stereo with active noise cancelling in the earpieces and passive
> cancelling in the mike and weigh just 5.9 ounces. We'll do similar sale
> prices on other Sennheiser models too, but this is the model which we are
> going carry on a regular basis.
>
> For more detailed info, click here into the Sennheiser web site.
> http://www.sennheiserusa.com/newsite/category.asp?transid=cat91
>
> We don't yet have them listed in our catalogs, so if you'd like to order by
> Monday, please do so by return e-mail or by phone
>
> Thanks,
> Andy
> Builder's Bookstore
> www.buildersbooks.com
> 800 870-4115
>
>
>
>
>
>
I hope they arebetter than Bose as I wasn't overly impressed by Bose.
One thing that makes me not trust Bose and puts a lot of the hoopla intocult following
statusis that Bose doesn't post any active and passive noise cancellation/reduction
info.
Kind of like GM never publishing the mpg on their Hummer....(the over 8600-lb gross
vehicle weightexempts H2s from EPA mileage-reporting program but GM isn't
going to tell you it gets about 10 - 11 mpg anyway - not that there's anything
wrong with that ;-) )
Also kind of like the folks who try to passionately tell you a Apple/Macintosh
computer is WAY betterbut when I use them I don't come away with that impression...
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company"
Thanks to everyone who gave their opinions on Sennheiser headsets (both on
and off the list) Without exception every comment was "as good as they get"
or "just like Bose, but without the high price".
Because of this and because one of our FBO customers wants them, I'm going
to take on the line. However, in order for us to qualify for their higher
dealer level, we must meet an initial order minimum.
So, to reach that quota, through Monday morning, here's a special sale.
Sennheiser model HMEC 25-KAS headsets
$625.00 each plus free shipping (within the US)
This is $54 less than Spruce and Sporty's plu
s free shipping.
The 25 KAS's are Sennheiser's top of the line headset for piston aircraft.
They are stereo with active noise cancelling in the earpieces and passive
cancelling in the mike and weigh just 5.9 ounces. We'll do similar sale
prices on other Sennheiser models too, but this is the model which we are
going carry on a regular basis.
For more detailed info, click here into the Sennheiser web site.
http://www.sennheiserusa.com/newsite/category.asp?transid=cat91
We don't yet have them listed in our catalogs, so if you'd like to order by
Monday, please do so by return e-mail or by phone
Thanks,
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
www.buildersbooks.com
800 870-4115
rum is sponsored entirely through the Contributions
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: release the hounds |
Evan
Any progress with this cretin?
Charlie Kuss
>
>Do any of you guys know how to reach Brian Baumgarner, formerly of Neosho
>MO ? I've had it with this guy.....he has apparently split to Florida
>somewhere leaving behind an $820.00 fuel tank bill which is years past due
>(literally). He called me in a desperate hurry for a new tank because he
>had a damaged one on an airplane he had sold. I went out of pocket for
>parts/labor and shipping costs to help him....only to be left hanging. I
>have got to tell you, I never cease to be baffled when someone takes
>advantage of my trust. Thankfully it rarely happens in this community, and
>I still routinely ship out finished product before billing. Airplane folks
>as a rule are well above average when it comes to honesty. Any help would
>be appreciated.......As a matter of fact, I have a new airspeed indicator
>(or donation for same amount to charity in your name) for whichever person
>recovers this lost revenue. I know this sounds harsh, but you have to
>understand I have been polite in many pho!
>ne calls and multiple letters and have received only empty promises of
>payment. To me this is a significant amount of money and it would not be
>fair to myself or my family to just let it go.
>
>
>Regards.....
>
>
>Evan Johnson
>www.evansaviationproducts.com
>(530)247-0375
>(530)351-1776 cell
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David" <davewendi(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Turbo Tom.. A good friend will be missed |
Turbo Tom was my sailplane instructor at
Mid-Ga. Soaring Association. His knowledge and
abilities about anything to do with flying was
simply amazing! He was literally a walking
encyclopedia of aviation! He will be missed!
David Kirby
RV6A-QB
Griffin, Ga.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cory Emberson" <bootless(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Turbo Tom.. A good friend will be missed |
I am so sorry to hear this - what a terrible loss. My prayers to all.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Stewart, Michael
(ISS Atlanta)
Subject: RV-List: Turbo Tom.. A good friend will be missed
Many of you know Turbo Tom Wyatt(TT), a pilot, RV'er, gentle man from
the Atlanta area. He and his close friend Barbara were killed instantly
yesterday in a car accident. TT has contributed to this list over the
years. He was a writer and contributor of several aviation magazines
most notable Kit Planes that he was doing a series of articles. He was
also a glider pilot, Tow pilot, and a genius when it came to engines and
fiberglass. He would get calls from engine race teams around the world
and be flown to locations to work out engine problems. I have watched
him in action, with laptop in hand teching out over a race engine,
tweaking her out with all the techno geek things he could do with
computers and engines. He was good. Have you ever seen a hand molded
intake plenum beautifully sculpted out of carbon fiber to exacting
specs? It was amazing what he could do with glass. A real craftsman.
Here is a recent picture of his Carbon Fiber hand molded panel from his
RV-8.
http://www.mstewart.net/deletesoon/ttpanel.jpg
He was working on is RV-8, finishing up the electrical. He was planning
a Franklin engine. He had the hots for that smoooooth engine. TT never
did anything normal. Always trying new things. Never following the
others. Always going off in new uncharted territory based on his
extensive experiences with the mechanics of things. Oh and man was he
stubborn! Try and talk him out of doing something. FORGET IT!
His closest friend was Bob Goodman, Subob we call him for the Subaru
engine he ran to the Sun 100 first place in class 2 years ago. TT kept
that thing running fast. An RV-4 turbo charged Subaru that would go like
you wouldn't believe. TT put that whole setup together. A proud papa
when his best friend ran her to first place in that race.
I just had dinner with em both recently at my house. One of the nicest,
most helpful guys you could ever meet. He will be missed.
If you were close to TT and know his family or close friends, please
contact me off list.
Regards,
Mike Stewart
S8 FWF
Gonna Miss you TT. You taught me a lot.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cool new tool (weight & balance database) |
A suggestion for Checkoway's weight and balance database: When doing the
flight weight scenarios, it would help to use the pilot's actual weight
rather than some constant figure like 210.
Thanks Dan for making the database available to everyone. AFAIK, I
currently have the heavy weight in the FP Sensenich configuration. Looking
for a contender/challenger.:-)
Snowing here today -- Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
Evansville, Indiana (just north of western Kentucky)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/wab/
>
> It's a brand new system, so there are bound to be some bugs...let me know
if
> you see anything funky!
>
> Enjoy,
> )_( Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Vans Service Bulletin - TIP UP Canopy 7 and 9s only |
It would be nice if Vans kept track of their customers and gave us a
call/letter/email when stuff like this happens.
http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb05-1-1.pdf
This looks like a fun thing to be doing for a (nearly) completed plane.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
Evansville, Indiana (just north of western Kentucky)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on zoot.lafn.org
Ok, maybe the third time will work. I replied to this message twice
before and it never showed up. I replied to several others in between
with no problems, but this one seems to be getting rejected for some
reason.
The subject is kind of stale now but the question was never answered so,
here it is ONE MORE TIME!
According to the Sky-Tec website, the built in solenoid is for
experimental aircraft only. Apparently certified aircraft have to use
the original solenoid, I guess because they were certified with it. So
there should be no problem with using only the Sky-Tec solenoid.
Using one big wire to both the starter and alternator may bring up
another problem though...like where do you put the circuit protection
(fuse/cb)? You ARE going to practice "safe" charging aren't you?
Dave -6 So Cal
EAA Technical Counselor
What about the wire from the alternator? Its hot all the time... You
could even go directly from the alternator, running one fat wire for
both the starter and alternator (I'm thinking about doing this on the
F1. If I can ever get some of my other 'projects' out of the way
first.) A friend wired his starter in his F1 without the unnecessary
contactor, now that it is flying the sky-tec starter spins the 540
like mad off of a odyssey battery located in the back. No noise, no
problems.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flying RVs in Greenbrier Valley (long) clamav-milter |
version 0.80j on opie.wvnet.edu
> When I was first deciding on what airplane to build at the EAA Arlington
> Fly-in about 12 years ago. One of the speakers during the RV presentation
> stated that the if the RV 3 was a 10 out of 10, then the RV4 would be a 9
> and the RV6 would be an 8, with a Cessna 172 as a 3. If the RV6 is an 8,
> then that RV3 must be some fun airplane. I can't even imagine flying
> getting much better than an RV6. I would love to try out a RV3 someday to
> see what a "10" is all about!
>
> Bob RV6
> NightFighter
Bob, that's music to my ears, I'm building an RV-3B. I have not flown a -3
yet but hear this sort of report from everyone who has. Can't wait!
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duane Zavadil" <dzavadil(at)hometownaccess.net> |
| Subject: | Electronic Ignition and starting problems |
I'd like to relate an experience and ask some questions.
I've got a 6A with an 0-320 with dual Electoair ignition. I had lot of problems
with kickback on starting that I attributed to low cranking speed. Upon rebuilding
the old Remy starter, the nature of the problem changed. Higher cranking
speed and less kickback but often when starting, particularly when cold, I
can crank away for up to 10 seconds with no luck but immediately upon releasing
the starter button, it often kicks off (and sometimes kicks back!). The bus
voltage drops into the 7-8 volt range when cranking. My guess is that the Electroair
ignition system is recieving inadequate voltage when cranking but when
the bus volatege jumps back up upon disengaging the starter, it resume operation(sometimes
with some odd transient that causes the kickback). By the way,
I found maintenance records of replacement of ring gear so this has probably
been going on for some time.
I'm inclined to add a second small battery such as one of small, 2-3 amp hour Yuasa
absorbed gel batterys that would be used for starting and backup. I would
like to take complexity out of the starting process and eliminate the potenial
for flying off with only the backup battery engaged by placing a normally closed
relay that is energized and opened by the starter relay primary circuit.
I would add a switch in series in this circuit to isolate the backup battery
from the rest of the systerm in the event that I needed to use it as a true backup
battery for the ignition system.
The plane is set up for night VFR, (vacuum system) and is sometimes flown that
way. It has an internally regulated alternator with Bob's crowbar OVP. I use an
Oddessy PC 725 and replace it annually (the old batterys work great in all kinds
of equipment around the place!).
Questions: Is there an easier way to fix the kickback such as a modern starter
( though I thought they drew higher current)?
Is it possible that the old Remy starter is somehow defective and drawing excess
current - causing the problem?
Is there a fatal flaw in the proposed backup scheme?
Sent via the WebMail system at hometownaccess.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition and starting problems |
I think a modern starter would take care of the problem. I had a
similar situation with kickbacks which ruined a starter. One detail you
didn't mention is what kind of prop you have? My theory is that the
combination of a light prop (I have a wood) small battery (opposed to
the old 35A 75LB monsters) and high current draw starter is a no-no.
This was the setup I had which caused the problems. I replaced only the
starter and solved all my problems. Some modern starters do draw very
high current, for example the Skytec flyweight model, and for this
reason I would stay away from it. I bought a B&C and I love it. I can
almost get the tail up on starter power alone, and I think the higher
inertia of a faster turning prop helps prevent kickbacks.
As for the voltage problems with the EI, I would try a new starter first
and I think you'll find the problems go away. I would also try this
question out on the Aeroelectric list and see what Bob thinks.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Electronic Ignition and starting problems |
Hi Duane,
My thinking is that, if you're going to have both ignitions dependant on
electricity, they should be each wired directly to separate batteries.
You can have more than one battery on a charging circuit. Just put
another contactor on for it. Say you were to use a smaller battery for
the #2 ignition. Make sure that it has enough amp hrs to support that
ignition for a full tank of gas or you can use two batteries of the same
size and rotate the year old battery to the #2 spot every year and never
have a battery more than two years old in the plane. If you do that, you
can start off of either or both batteries. I'd start off one battery and
leave that ignition off until started. That way you'd have one ignition
firing off a battery at 12.5 volts and don't have to worry about the
starter dragging it down.
Check out the AeroElectric connection:
http://aeroelectric.com/
and/or subscribe to the AeroElectric list:
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe/
I don't know how much voltage the Electroair ignition needs to fire, but
I've never had any problem starting with a lightspeed ignition on the
sole battery with the starter even with the magneto turned off. Good
luck.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
RV-6a flying
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Duane Zavadil
Subject: RV-List: Electronic Ignition and starting problems
I'd like to relate an experience and ask some questions.
I've got a 6A with an 0-320 with dual Electoair ignition. I had lot of
problems with kickback on starting that I attributed to low cranking
speed. Upon rebuilding the old Remy starter, the nature of the problem
changed. Higher cranking speed and less kickback but often when
starting, particularly when cold, I can crank away for up to 10 seconds
with no luck but immediately upon releasing the starter button, it often
kicks off (and sometimes kicks back!). The bus voltage drops into the
7-8 volt range when cranking. My guess is that the Electroair ignition
system is recieving inadequate voltage when cranking but when the bus
volatege jumps back up upon disengaging the starter, it resume
operation(sometimes with some odd transient that causes the kickback).
By the way, I found maintenance records of replacement of ring gear so
this has probably been going on for some time.
I'm inclined to add a second small battery such as one of small, 2-3 amp
hour Yuasa absorbed gel batterys that would be used for starting and
backup. I would like to take complexity out of the starting process and
eliminate the potenial for flying off with only the backup battery
engaged by placing a normally closed relay that is energized and opened
by the starter relay primary circuit. I would add a switch in series in
this circuit to isolate the backup battery from the rest of the systerm
in the event that I needed to use it as a true backup battery for the
ignition system.
The plane is set up for night VFR, (vacuum system) and is sometimes
flown that way. It has an internally regulated alternator with Bob's
crowbar OVP. I use an Oddessy PC 725 and replace it annually (the old
batterys work great in all kinds of equipment around the place!).
Questions: Is there an easier way to fix the kickback such as a modern
starter ( though I thought they drew higher current)?
Is it possible that the old Remy starter is somehow defective and
drawing excess current - causing the problem?
Is there a fatal flaw in the proposed backup scheme?
Sent via the WebMail system at hometownaccess.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Mitchell <dfm4290(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition and starting problems |
January 19, 2005 - January 29, 2005
RV-Archive.digest.vol-qk