RV10-Archive.digest.vol-bt

November 13, 2006 - November 28, 2006



      male species.  She said that my RV-10 list had to be less depressing than
      hers as she and I are very happily married.
      
      
      She did bring up a good point.  Has there ever been a string about the
      affects of such a project on the family?
      In the year+ of lurking I had to admit that I had not.  
      Building a plane is a huge family commitment and takes hundreds/thousands of
      hours from family.  
      
      I am 35 married and our latest child came a month ago which makes 2 under 2
      years old.  I'm leaning toward building but am currently in the midst of a
      career change that will better allow me funding to build where my position
      I'm exiting would have taken some time.  I still have the build/buy question
      in my head though.  We may expand to 3 kids which will make the -10
      difficult and my flop to the Murphy line to get 4+2 seating from their
      recently released Yukon which shares the Moose fuselage (thus seating) with
      different powerplant and increased wing sq/ft.  Does anyone have a larger
      family than the -10 can hold.  (Deems here's where your input would equal
      E.F. Hutton's back in the day)
      
      We would be interested in responses on affects on family and maybe what was
      done to incorporate the building process into family life/involvement.  
      I would also like anyone who is on the other side of the build/buy decision
      to add thier $.02.
      
      As an exiting business owner working ~65 hrs/wk it seems difficult to fit in
      a kit.  But my career change hopefully will afford me more time as it will
      money.  
      
      Just fishing here; if anyone has or knows of someone who has expirience with
      international employment and what one should be wary of when approaching
      such an opportunty I would be very interested in some offline dialog. 
      
      Thank you,
      
      Matt Geans
      Builder Wanna-be
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Kits and Family
Date: Nov 13, 2006
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
There have been a lower than statistical rate of divorces within the RV-10 Group. James McClow excluded. Only three builders have died and not from the kit process. One only has to look at pictures of OSH or the VANS picnic and see families like the Olsons' to know that inclusion of the family is a smart and efficient development technique for acceptance of the final product. Read Dan Checkoway's post on the value of wives and their inclusion. http://www.rvproject.com/wife.html Ever seen how often Tim's daughters are smiling or asleep. http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/flights/20060226/index.html Being 57, grey haired, kids are now adults, I do not qualify for consideration. The journey should be shared. Developing Airshows in the 80's and 90's created a phenomena called AIDS (Airshow Induced Divorce Syndrome). Don't go there. Enjoy your 30s and 40s, get the family involved. Talk to Tim. John Cox #600 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of mgeans(at)provide.net Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 10:02 AM Subject: RV10-List: Kits and Family All, I don't know if this subject has come up but here goes. My wife (if we're allowed to bring them up in the list) was interestingly peering over my shoulder when her rubber stamping chat room threads turned to ugly divorces, single moms, the coming holidays and the wickedness of the male species. She said that my RV-10 list had to be less depressing than hers as she and I are very happily married. She did bring up a good point. Has there ever been a string about the affects of such a project on the family? In the year+ of lurking I had to admit that I had not. Building a plane is a huge family commitment and takes hundreds/thousands of hours from family. I am 35 married and our latest child came a month ago which makes 2 under 2 years old. I'm leaning toward building but am currently in the midst of a career change that will better allow me funding to build where my position I'm exiting would have taken some time. I still have the build/buy question in my head though. We may expand to 3 kids which will make the -10 difficult and my flop to the Murphy line to get 4+2 seating from their recently released Yukon which shares the Moose fuselage (thus seating) with different powerplant and increased wing sq/ft. Does anyone have a larger family than the -10 can hold. (Deems here's where your input would equal E.F. Hutton's back in the day) We would be interested in responses on affects on family and maybe what was done to incorporate the building process into family life/involvement. I would also like anyone who is on the other side of the build/buy decision to add thier $.02. As an exiting business owner working ~65 hrs/wk it seems difficult to fit in a kit. But my career change hopefully will afford me more time as it will money. Just fishing here; if anyone has or knows of someone who has expirience with international employment and what one should be wary of when approaching such an opportunty I would be very interested in some offline dialog. Thank you, Matt Geans Builder Wanna-be ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Kits and Family
Date: Nov 13, 2006
From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com>
I have often felt this is a subject that does not get the appropriate amount of attention. My wife would be happy to discuss this with yours on how we approached this. We have two kids and made the decision several years ago to build, first a 7 then switched to a 10, once she realized how much fun flying was. It is definitively a family commitment, as it takes time away from them, and you have to sell the benefits of it. My kids have both been actively involved, and they love it. We tell them they have to build sweat equity, i.e. work for flight time, it really gets them excited, in addition for each structure they work on they get to sign it before we close it up, for example they both got to sign the inside of the HS skins. If everything goes alright nobody will ever see it, but if an eventual owner opens it up, he/she will get to see all 4 of my families signatures and the date and age they worked on it. There is always an argument about who gets to work with Dad for the magic signing. They both love to cleco, drill and measure. We have finally gotten to the stage we can sit and make noises, and we all take turns as PIC. Next month we should be able to apply power to the panel and that is when it will really start to be fun. The project has been a point of pride for all of us, everyone in the neighborhood stops by to see progress, because after all we are the crazy people building a plane in our garage and they think it will never fly! We tell them soon. All of the friends of the kids come by and take a look, they all want to fly in it once it is done. It is surprising the difference between kids and adults, kids want to, and the adults are leary...oh well. The boyscouts have been by, and are even talking about earning their aviation badge, it has gotten them all excited about flying. My wife is my riveting partner and the person who supports me most in the build. It takes a real commitment on both parts, as she has to shoulder the kids responsibility when I am working in the garage. Her main statement though is that with the plane she knows exactly where I am at during the evenings, and she can always take two steps and visit. She has learned to flush rivet better than I can, giving a half tap when needed to set the rivet properly. She also gave up her manicure because it made it difficult to pick up the AN426AD3-3.5 rivets. She said the trade is that she gets to test the aft CG limit when we go visit Tim (read Mall of America!). With that being said it is a big commitment, but one that is easily integrated into the family. If you do not take the time to sell it and get the family excited about it, it will make it difficult at best, and a painful divorce at worst. I think all it takes to finish is perseverance and the support of your family because they want to see you succeed. No matter how full you feel your schedule is, you can shift things and make it work, all it takes (in my case) is a can do attitude and the support of a great spouse! Just my musing's on a boring Monday Dan 40269 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of mgeans(at)provide.net Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 1:02 PM Subject: RV10-List: Kits and Family All, I don't know if this subject has come up but here goes. My wife (if we're allowed to bring them up in the list) was interestingly peering over my shoulder when her rubber stamping chat room threads turned to ugly divorces, single moms, the coming holidays and the wickedness of the male species. She said that my RV-10 list had to be less depressing than hers as she and I are very happily married. She did bring up a good point. Has there ever been a string about the affects of such a project on the family? In the year+ of lurking I had to admit that I had not. Building a plane is a huge family commitment and takes hundreds/thousands of hours from family. I am 35 married and our latest child came a month ago which makes 2 under 2 years old. I'm leaning toward building but am currently in the midst of a career change that will better allow me funding to build where my position I'm exiting would have taken some time. I still have the build/buy question in my head though. We may expand to 3 kids which will make the -10 difficult and my flop to the Murphy line to get 4+2 seating from their recently released Yukon which shares the Moose fuselage (thus seating) with different powerplant and increased wing sq/ft. Does anyone have a larger family than the -10 can hold. (Deems here's where your input would equal E.F. Hutton's back in the day) We would be interested in responses on affects on family and maybe what was done to incorporate the building process into family life/involvement. I would also like anyone who is on the other side of the build/buy decision to add thier $.02. As an exiting business owner working ~65 hrs/wk it seems difficult to fit in a kit. But my career change hopefully will afford me more time as it will money. Just fishing here; if anyone has or knows of someone who has expirience with international employment and what one should be wary of when approaching such an opportunty I would be very interested in some offline dialog. Thank you, Matt Geans Builder Wanna-be ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <mgeans(at)provide.net>
Subject: Lyc Knockoff 92 octane compatable
Date: Nov 13, 2006
Has anyone heard of or had exposure to an experimental assembled and tested engine with the correct combustion ration (I think is 8 or 8.5:1) that will allow the use of 92 octane auto fuel? I met an seasoned hanger flyer once who suggested that I find the engine that I want to use and then fit an airframe to it that will suit my needs to alleviate a lot of headache. I think Kitplanes has touched on this in the past possibly with Mftrs as Superior or Titan (engines not kits as in Tornado or T-51). Don't quote me on the Mftr's as I don't recall who they were only that they would take the auto fuel. This could be a promising addition to an airframe which could pass the time line of avgas extinction. It would also be cost effective. This might spark (no pun intended) the auto vs avgas "war" as I've seen such discussions referred to before. Matt Geans Builder Wanna-be ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 13, 2006
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Lyc Knockoff 92 octane compatable
I can't help you on the experimental side, but I do know of a pilot that used to use 91 octane unleaded in his 180hp Lyc O-36A1D (8.5:1 compression) powered Mooney. He sold the aircraft, so I only know what occured while he had it and was using mogas. Two issues. 1. He was able to get mogas with MTBE that supposedly was safe for STC'd mogas use. Obviously that is nearly unobtainable now, and ethanol use is very widespread, meaning your fuel system better be designed to withstand ethanol. Even here in PHX he could only get the mogas with MTBE in the summer, as the fuel was switched to ethanol in the winter. 2. Bigger problem was that mogas eventually disolved the variety of PRC that Mooney used in 1967 when the plane was built, into a goo, and the tanks eventually leaked so bad he had to choose between a complete strip and reseal or go with STC'd bladders. He chose the bladders..which added 30lbs to his empty wt. AFAIK he never had any issues with vapor lock nor detonation. However, that was with standard mags and mag timing. Who knows what would happen with electronic ignition. On 11/13/06, mgeans(at)provide.net wrote: > > Has anyone heard of or had exposure to an experimental > assembled and tested engine with the correct combustion > ration (I think is 8 or 8.5:1) that will allow the use of > 92 octane auto fuel? > > I met an seasoned hanger flyer once who suggested that I > find the engine that I want to use and then fit an airframe > to it that will suit my needs to alleviate a lot of > headache. > > I think Kitplanes has touched on this in the past possibly > with Mftrs as Superior or Titan (engines not kits as in > Tornado or T-51). Don't quote me on the Mftr's as I don't > recall who they were only that they would take the auto > fuel. This could be a promising addition to an airframe > which could pass the time line of avgas extinction. It > would also be cost effective. > > This might spark (no pun intended) the auto vs avgas "war" > as I've seen such discussions referred to before. > > Matt Geans > Builder Wanna-be > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 13, 2006
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Kits and Family - My story
Matt, since you asked, Here's my input: 1st a couple of reference setting items. A. My family is one of my highest priorities, and ranks above my love of aviation. B. I'm actively involved in my church to which I willingly dedicate additional time and this also ranks above my aviation addiction. C. My personality/nature is somewhat compulsive, I am more than just a little passionate about the things I undertake. I can't stand to see/leave something unfinished. D. I was, at that time, equally obsessive in my career pursuits With that said, after two kitbuild starts, (without a finish! ) I found that when I was totally honest with myself it would be impossible to balance my family/church/work/airplane building activities. After too may 2-3am sessions in the garage/shop I came to the realization that my family was suffering from my obsession, and that my compulsive nature would NEVER allow me to throttle-back and take the 10+ years it would have taken to completed the project in harmony with the other 'heavy-lifters'. So the Lancair got sold to someone locally, who finished it, got it on the front page of Kitplanes, and took me for a ride shortly after his Stage 1 completed. I accepted that 'building' would be something that would have to wait until retirement. Now the good news: I didn't give up aviation, instead, I first bought into a partnership (valuable learning experience), then ultimately bought a 5 seat V35 Bonanza (worked great while the youngest was still an infant) eventually traded up to a Baron w/6 seats, which worked well with the family at all sizes, as the oldest began to grow bigger and wasn't always interested in going on the 'trips' the 6 seats saw us through raising 5 children. We used the planes strictly for personal pleasure. 80% of the hours were spent on family vacations, or visiting family. My children know their aunts, uncles, cousins and grandparents like their best friends. Judy would plan the vacations. With 2 weekends and the week in between, it's amazing how much we packed into those trips. And Oh, yeah, I squeezed 4-5 trips to OSH in between and took Dad and my son. I've never regretted those decisions. Now, I am retired, the work obsession, provided some modest resources to once again launch on my dream of building and flying my own aircraft, My children are mostly raised and are beginning to identify and shape the directions and courses their own lives will take them. I'm still obsessive about leaving things unfinished, building this plane is the single biggest personal project I've undertaken in my life. I get close to burn-out from time to time, but the memories of the fun we have had as a family and the dreams of using the plane for Judy and I to visit parents, children, and (someday) grandchildren, as well as the extended family that's I'm acquiring through this process carry me on. My story is just that, - my story - there are an infinite number of ways to tackle it, it's just what worked for me. I am in awe of the younger working families that successfully accomplish this dream earlier in their lives. I've always been a bit of a 'late-bloomer' Deems Davis # 406 Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/ mgeans(at)provide.net wrote: > >All, > >I don't know if this subject has come up but here goes. > >My wife (if we're allowed to bring them up in the list) was >interestingly peering over my shoulder when her rubber >stamping chat room threads turned to ugly divorces, single >moms, the coming holidays and the wickedness of the male >species. She said that my RV-10 list had to be less >depressing than hers as she and I are very happily married. > > >She did bring up a good point. Has there ever been a >string about the affects of such a project on the family? >In the year+ of lurking I had to admit that I had not. >Building a plane is a huge family commitment and takes >hundreds/thousands of hours from family. > >I am 35 married and our latest child came a month ago which >makes 2 under 2 years old. I'm leaning toward building but >am currently in the midst of a career change that will >better allow me funding to build where my position I'm >exiting would have taken some time. I still have the >build/buy question in my head though. We may expand to 3 >kids which will make the -10 difficult and my flop to the >Murphy line to get 4+2 seating from their recently released >Yukon which shares the Moose fuselage (thus seating) with >different powerplant and increased wing sq/ft. Does anyone >have a larger family than the -10 can hold. (Deems here's >where your input would equal E.F. Hutton's back in the day) > >We would be interested in responses on affects on family >and maybe what was done to incorporate the building process >into family life/involvement. >I would also like anyone who is on the other side of the >build/buy decision to add thier $.02. > >As an exiting business owner working ~65 hrs/wk it seems >difficult to fit in a kit. But my career change hopefully >will afford me more time as it will money. > >Just fishing here; if anyone has or knows of someone who >has expirience with international employment and what one >should be wary of when approaching such an opportunty I >would be very interested in some offline dialog. > >Thank you, > >Matt Geans >Builder Wanna-be > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: It is real...Registration that is
Date: Nov 13, 2006
From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com>
N289DT is now officially registered, just received the "pink slip" from the FAA. Now, I have something to put in that cool little clear pocket Abby sews on the front panel!! The excitement is building, now if I can just build the plane..... Dan N289DT (40269) RV10E ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jae Chang" <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com>
Date: Nov 13, 2006
Subject: Fuel float positioning and proseal
http://www.jline.com/log/aviation/build/wingkit/photos/IMG_4432.html Hi all, I was just admiring the result of all of my hard work for the past month or more, while working on the fuel tanks, and noticed something. The float sender is sitting on the bottom of the tank skin. It is actually the steel wire touching the inside tank skin. I imagine a worst-case scenario may be the wings sitting empty with water in the bottom of the tank, with the steel wire on the fuel sender touching the bottom tank skin. Also, during normal operation, the float wire may bang up and down hitting the fuel tank skins. To mitigate any damage caused by the above, has anyone put a thin layer of proseal on their tank skins, where the float wire hits the skin? It seems like a good idea to do. I haven't seen any mention of doing this in any archives, so I am a little wary that I may be missing something? Am I? Thanks, Jae #40533 - Light-headed from inhaling all the black death and MEK ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Quadrant vs. Vernier Cables
Date: Nov 13, 2006
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
I wanted to thank everyone for the spirited discussion and fresh perspectives on my thread I started on Quadrant vs. Vernier. It all helps as we watch homes floating away here in the soggy Pacific NW - home of VANS. John Cox #40600 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel float positioning and proseal
Date: Nov 13, 2006
Hi Jae, The word I got from Vans is that you want to bend the wire so that the plastic arm bottoms out with the float resting about 1/8" above the base of the tank. That will keep the float from chattering against the tank skin when empty. I was ultimately uncomfortable with the float clearances, and have left the baffles off the tanks in anticipation of the capacitance senders the Vans is working on for the 10. Last I checked, they didn't have a completion date scheduled, but they were working on it. With my flaps half done, my ailerons yet to be touched and my fuselage sitting in the crate, I figure I've got plenty of time before I'll really need to close up those tanks. Jeff Carpenter 40304 On Nov 13, 2006, at 12:06 PM, Jae Chang wrote: > matronics_rv10(at)jline.com> > > http://www.jline.com/log/aviation/build/wingkit/photos/IMG_4432.html > > Hi all, I was just admiring the result of all of my hard work for > the past month > or more, while working on the fuel tanks, and noticed something. > > The float sender is sitting on the bottom of the tank skin. It is > actually the > steel wire touching the inside tank skin. I imagine a worst-case > scenario may be > the wings sitting empty with water in the bottom of the tank, with > the steel > wire on the fuel sender touching the bottom tank skin. Also, during > normal > operation, the float wire may bang up and down hitting the fuel > tank skins. > > To mitigate any damage caused by the above, has anyone put a thin > layer of > proseal on their tank skins, where the float wire hits the skin? It > seems like a > good idea to do. I haven't seen any mention of doing this in any > archives, so I > am a little wary that I may be missing something? Am I? > > Thanks, > Jae > #40533 - Light-headed from inhaling all the black death and MEK > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Eggenfellner's dual battery requirements.
Date: Nov 13, 2006
I looked in the archives and found mention of this but did not see any photos. Can anyone direct me to the location to find pictures of this setup. D. Lloyd, if I recal correctly, have you worked on this yet? Any one else going planning on this route. Thanks, John G. 409 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 13, 2006
From: "W. Curtis" <wcurtis(at)core.com>
Subject: RE: Antenna Location
With respect to your rf experience, there is no problem with wingtip for VHF navigation antennas. You have explained below why only navigation antennas are primarily placed in the wingtip. Comm antennas do not work well in the wingtip. Notice that all VHF navigational antenna are mounted horizontally and are polarized as such. Communication antennas on the other hand are mounted vertically and polarized as such. Since the wingtips are set up very well for horizontal installation, they work quite well for navigational antennas. I think the question was in regard to navigational antennas only. Search the archives, I think this has been previously discussed ad nauseam. >The problem with wing tip antennas, or antennas not located on the >fuselage or vertical stab leading edge or tip, would seem to be twofold. >One, re the wing tip location, such would likely cause a null in >reception (and transmission) primarily oriented in the direction of the >wing. Also, if the aircraft antenna is of one orientation, e.g. >horizontal, and the target station is vertical oriented (polarized, to >be precise), typically a 20db path loss occurs. Every 3db loss equates >to roughly a 50% drop in signal strength. William Curtis http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jdalton77" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Kits and Family
Date: Nov 13, 2006
Dan Checkoway has a nice page on his site about fitting in the wife, family, and work. It's a fun read. Jeff ----- Original Message ----- From: <mgeans(at)provide.net> Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 1:02 PM Subject: RV10-List: Kits and Family > > All, > > I don't know if this subject has come up but here goes. > > My wife (if we're allowed to bring them up in the list) was > interestingly peering over my shoulder when her rubber > stamping chat room threads turned to ugly divorces, single > moms, the coming holidays and the wickedness of the male > species. She said that my RV-10 list had to be less > depressing than hers as she and I are very happily married. > > > She did bring up a good point. Has there ever been a > string about the affects of such a project on the family? > In the year+ of lurking I had to admit that I had not. > Building a plane is a huge family commitment and takes > hundreds/thousands of hours from family. > > I am 35 married and our latest child came a month ago which > makes 2 under 2 years old. I'm leaning toward building but > am currently in the midst of a career change that will > better allow me funding to build where my position I'm > exiting would have taken some time. I still have the > build/buy question in my head though. We may expand to 3 > kids which will make the -10 difficult and my flop to the > Murphy line to get 4+2 seating from their recently released > Yukon which shares the Moose fuselage (thus seating) with > different powerplant and increased wing sq/ft. Does anyone > have a larger family than the -10 can hold. (Deems here's > where your input would equal E.F. Hutton's back in the day) > > We would be interested in responses on affects on family > and maybe what was done to incorporate the building process > into family life/involvement. > I would also like anyone who is on the other side of the > build/buy decision to add thier $.02. > > As an exiting business owner working ~65 hrs/wk it seems > difficult to fit in a kit. But my career change hopefully > will afford me more time as it will money. > > Just fishing here; if anyone has or knows of someone who > has expirience with international employment and what one > should be wary of when approaching such an opportunty I > would be very interested in some offline dialog. > > Thank you, > > Matt Geans > Builder Wanna-be > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Kits and Family
From: "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net>
Date: Nov 13, 2006
But, if you're going to put 3 kids in the equation, and you seek the lifestyle you read about on my site, then you're looking at the wrong plane here, so you may want to look further at other planes. maybe not Tim............See my letter to Ken Kruger below and his response. Zack > Ok guys..... > > I'm having a ball building this RV10 especially after building an RV8 and > flying it for over 6 years and 1000 hours. I can't wait to finish the 10 > but I am already thinking about a bigger plane! > > After cruising through several aviation magazines, I thought it would be > useful to have a 6 place plane that could transform into a heavy hauler > /sleeping quarters by removing the rear seats if needed. > > Any interest in this idea? Maybe you could stretch the 10 a little? I > certainly would buy one if you produced it! > > Joe "Zack" Czachorowski > RV8 > RV10 (half way there) _________________ RV8 #80125 RV10 # 40512 Hi Joe, You are not the first to make this suggestion...are you surprised? As the cost, time, and hassel factor of flying airlines goes up and up while the airlines' customer service goes down and down, there may be an emerging market for a six seat RV-10. Thanks for your thoughts! So long for now, Ken Krueger, Engineer Van's Aircraft -------- RV8 #80125 RV10 # 40512 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=74332#74332 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Kits and Family
From: "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Date: Nov 13, 2006
You've had a lot of good responses and I agree with all of them. I will add that I changed positions with my current employer not too long after I started on my tailkit. My new position has dramatically more travel, and with family changes (kids transitioning to adults, grandchild, etc), I find that I don't have anywhere close to the amount of time that I used to on the kit. As others have mentioned, family and employment must come first. This is a major time commitment (1600-2200 hours) so you can do the math for yourself. Problem comes when you don't align your expectations with reality. Assuming the RV-10 is the best fit for your mission profile, just get a shovel and start moving the mountain. Bob #40105 90% done... Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=74354#74354 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Kits and Family
Date: Nov 13, 2006
Bob So you are at the hated 90/90 position. So many of us are. When you coming to Vegas next, haven't seen you since Huntsville. Bob K 90/90 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bcondrey Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 3:14 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Kits and Family You've had a lot of good responses and I agree with all of them. I will add that I changed positions with my current employer not too long after I started on my tailkit. My new position has dramatically more travel, and with family changes (kids transitioning to adults, grandchild, etc), I find that I don't have anywhere close to the amount of time that I used to on the kit. As others have mentioned, family and employment must come first. This is a major time commitment (1600-2200 hours) so you can do the math for yourself. Problem comes when you don't align your expectations with reality. Assuming the RV-10 is the best fit for your mission profile, just get a shovel and start moving the mountain. Bob #40105 90% done... Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=74354#74354 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com>
Date: Nov 14, 2006
Subject: RV10's near Las Vegas
I am planning to be in Las Vegas Nov.30 thru Dec. 3rd. Would love to se e, assist, or fly any RV in the area (prefer Rv10) . If any of you VEGA S RV guys will be available at that time I would love to hook up.....I w ill even buy Dinner at the top of the SPHERE if you want. Contact me on line at DDDDSP(at)juno.com or 402-560-9755. Dean 40449 ________________________________________________________________________

I am planning to be in Las Vegas Nov.30 thru Dec. 3rd.  Wo uld love to see, assist, or fly any RV in the area (prefer Rv10) .  If any of you VEGAS RV guys will be available at that time I would love to hook up.....I will even buy Dinner at the top of the SPHERE if you w ant.  Contact me online at DDDDS P(at)juno.com or 402-560-9755.

Dean 40449



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________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net>
Subject: Re: Quadrant vs. Vernier CablesQuadrant vs. Vernier CablesQuadrant
vs. Vernier CablesQuadrant vs. Vernier Cables
Date: Nov 14, 2006
On the standard Van's quadrant I received the throttle is friction lock, not vernier and it will respond to you pushing or pulling it as long as you don't have it locked down. The prop and mixture are vernier. So I don't think this would stop you from formation flying. Look at all the other RV's that fly formation and I think they probably all have the same unit. I would agree you wouldn't probably want the throttle to be vernier. Wayne Edgerton # 40336 so close but yet so far :>} ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Kits and Family
Date: Nov 14, 2006
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
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From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Subject: Post Component Construction Priming
Date: Nov 14, 2006
Hello Listers, For those of us a bit less consumed with priming (as in... we're not priming)... but wouldn't mind a some protection from corrosion, does anyone one know of a dipping or misting process that can be used on assembled components? Jeff Carpenter 40304 Flaps ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <millstees(at)ameritech.net>
Subject: Post Component Construction Priming
Date: Nov 14, 2006
I used corrosionX on my Arrow. It is sprayed on with a hand sprayer, and worked pretty well. www.corrosionx.com/ Steve Mills RV-10 40486 Slow-build Naperville, Illinois finishing fuselage -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 12:48 PM Subject: RV10-List: Post Component Construction Priming Hello Listers, For those of us a bit less consumed with priming (as in... we're not priming)... but wouldn't mind a some protection from corrosion, does anyone one know of a dipping or misting process that can be used on assembled components? Jeff Carpenter 40304 Flaps ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Post Component Construction Priming
Date: Nov 14, 2006
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
ACF-50 is the other big one out there for corrosion protection. I believe they both sell small versions of the FBO equipment for fogging. Might be one of those handy tools for a chapter to get. ACF and Corrosion-X are very similar and both work very well. They get into the tiniest of gaps and are completely non-conducting. This is the route I decided on way back rather than all the extra priming weight and effort. Michael Sausen -10 #352 Fuselage -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of millstees(at)ameritech.net Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 1:03 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Post Component Construction Priming I used corrosionX on my Arrow. It is sprayed on with a hand sprayer, and worked pretty well. www.corrosionx.com/ Steve Mills RV-10 40486 Slow-build Naperville, Illinois finishing fuselage -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 12:48 PM Subject: RV10-List: Post Component Construction Priming Hello Listers, For those of us a bit less consumed with priming (as in... we're not priming)... but wouldn't mind a some protection from corrosion, does anyone one know of a dipping or misting process that can be used on assembled components? Jeff Carpenter 40304 Flaps ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 2006
From: Niko <owl40188(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Baggage Area Access Panels
Attached are pictures of the access panels I created in the baggage area us ing the standard stall warning cutout parts. I believe that the doubler Va ns provides is too thin so I used two doublers per each cutout. Typically the doubler should be at least 1.5 times the thickess of the parent materia l. In this case each doubler is the same thickness as the floor skin. The cutouts came out well and I can also reach the step bolts with them in cas e the steps need to be come out at a future date. So far it took 5 hrs and I have about another 1 to 2 hours of deburring, priming and riveting the p arts to finish it.=0A=0ANiko=0A40188 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 2006
From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Rivethead - are they shipping any product?
I ordered a set of practically all the RV10 parts from Rivethead about a month ago. It has been reported here that there would be some delays due to a broken hip. However, another poster (John G) reports having received product last week. Does anyone know anything? Has anyone received product recently? I need those darn WD415s! Thanks. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Rivethead - are they shipping any product?
Date: Nov 14, 2006
Mine came in a little over a week from order to my hands. Probably before medical problem. John G. >From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> >Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >To: RV10-List Digest Server >Subject: RV10-List: Rivethead - are they shipping any product? >Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2006 15:53:23 -0500 > > >I ordered a set of practically all the RV10 parts from Rivethead about a >month ago. It has been reported here that there would be some delays due >to a broken hip. However, another poster (John G) reports having >received product last week. > >Does anyone know anything? Has anyone received product recently? I need >those darn WD415s! > >Thanks. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 2006
From: Niko <owl40188(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Rivethead - are they shipping any product?
I received my trim brackets about 2 weeks ago.=0A=0ANiko=0A40188=0A=0A=0A-- --- Original Message ----=0AFrom: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>=0ATo: RV10-List Digest Server =0ASent: Tuesday, Novembe r 14, 2006 3:53:23 PM=0ASubject: RV10-List: Rivethead - are they shipping a er(at)nc.rr.com>=0A=0AI ordered a set of practically all the RV10 parts from R ivethead about a =0Amonth ago. It has been reported here that there would be some delays =0Adue to a broken hip. However, another poster (John G) reports having =0Areceived product last week.=0A=0ADoes anyone know anythi ng? Has anyone received product recently? I =0Aneed those darn WD415s!=0A ====== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net>
Subject: wheel pant attachment
Date: Nov 14, 2006
I am currently in the process of installing the wheel pants and ran into a problem and was wondering if any of you had a similar problem. On the fairing attach bracket that is used to secure the fairing, I had a problem with the lower attach point on both sides of the plane. After I had installed the plate nuts and put on the fiberglass to stiffen up the pants the lower attachment point on the front fairing was to deep for me to make the normal attachment with the recommended screws. I thought about bending the bracket to make it fit but was concerned I might weaken it or get it out of shape. What I ended up doing was adding a spacer, which is about 1/2" thick in front of the nut plate for support and then used a longer screw. I've attached a picture of what I'm talking about, assuming it doesn't get stripped off. Again just curious if anyone else has experienced this. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 2006
From: Niko <owl40188(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Pattern for Front Seat Upholstery
Has anyone either developed or gotten a pattern for uphostering the front s eats?=0A=0ANiko=0A40188 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com>
Date: Nov 14, 2006
Subject: Re: wheel pant attachment
Wayne, It appears you did not have the bracket bent/shaped to be closer to the wheel pant before you added the fiberglass. I think the instructions sa y to fit the pants to the bracket and verify the bracket are in contact OR close to the wheel pant PRIOR to drilling the holes and adding flock to that area to support the wheelpant. I would first sand off the fibe rglass inside the front half of the wheelpant and start over with that h alf. Then bend that lower tab IN toward the wheel pant till it is in co ntact with it or close to it. Then reglass the inside of the wheelpant to support the bracket. I did use a few screws that were longer on some holes because it is EASIER to get them started and the brackets were no t perfectly FLUSH to the wheelpant at every screw hole. DEAN 40449 ________________________________________________________________________

Wayne,

It appears you did not have the bracket bent/shaped to be closer to t he wheel pant before you added the fiberglass.  I think the instruc tions say to fit the pants to the bracket and verify the bracket are in contact OR close to the wheel pant PRIOR to drilling the holes and addin g flock to that area to support the wheelpant.   I would first sand off the fiberglass inside the front half of the wheelpant and star t over with that half.  Then bend that lower tab IN toward the whee l pant till it is in contact with it or close to it.  Then reglass the inside of the wheelpant to support the bracket.  I did use a fe w screws that were longer on some holes because it is EASIER to get them started and the brackets were not perfectly FLUSH to the wheelpant at e very screw hole.

DEAN 40449



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From: "Rob Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Post Component Construction Priming
Date: Nov 14, 2006
Before I started on my -10, I was setting up to build the CH 640 and went to the rudder workshop in Eastman, GA. There, on their certified Alarus airplanes, they've set up a contraption with holes drilled in PVC pipe (call it a "wand"), installed nozzles, and hooked up to an air pressure source. Then they take the long wand, put Corrosion X in it, insert it all the way down through the completed wing, begin spraying, and slowly pull it out of the wing. Look them up at www.newplane.com and ask for Terry (one of the owning partners) for more specifics. Feel free to mention that I referred you. I was also there this summer for our local EAA chapter's fly-in over there to check out their operation. He remembered me from a couple of years before, as my wife attended with me during the workshop. Great folks to talk to. Rob Wright #392 Fuse -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen) Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 1:54 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Post Component Construction Priming ACF-50 is the other big one out there for corrosion protection. I believe they both sell small versions of the FBO equipment for fogging. Might be one of those handy tools for a chapter to get. ACF and Corrosion-X are very similar and both work very well. They get into the tiniest of gaps and are completely non-conducting. This is the route I decided on way back rather than all the extra priming weight and effort. Michael Sausen -10 #352 Fuselage -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of millstees(at)ameritech.net Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 1:03 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Post Component Construction Priming I used corrosionX on my Arrow. It is sprayed on with a hand sprayer, and worked pretty well. www.corrosionx.com/ Steve Mills RV-10 40486 Slow-build Naperville, Illinois finishing fuselage -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 12:48 PM Subject: RV10-List: Post Component Construction Priming Hello Listers, For those of us a bit less consumed with priming (as in... we're not priming)... but wouldn't mind a some protection from corrosion, does anyone one know of a dipping or misting process that can be used on assembled components? Jeff Carpenter 40304 Flaps ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rick Gray" <rickgray(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Re: wheel pant attachment
Date: Nov 14, 2006
Hi Wayne, >From your pics it appears that you may have done it backwards. I laid up glass on the inside of the pants in the area of the brackets FIRST. Then I fit the pants (lines on the floor etc etc) to the brackets. When you do this you'll end up with the 'gap' on the OUTSIDE of the fairing where the axle nut/extension is. It's in the plans....this is where you'll need a flox buildup. I taped the washer to the extension and waxed up the threads on the bolt then made my flox build up around it. The washer is now PART of the build up (read: glued in place) and it fits like a glove. I have LOTS of pics if you need them. I think I must have passed you since I bought your Hartzell BF...all my pants and fairings are done as well as my Firewall Forward......must have brought me luck....ha ha. Rick in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm http://rv6rick.tripod.com/ohiovalleyrvators/ ----- Original Message ----- From: Wayne Edgerton To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 5:06 PM Subject: RV10-List: wheel pant attachment I am currently in the process of installing the wheel pants and ran into a problem and was wondering if any of you had a similar problem. On the fairing attach bracket that is used to secure the fairing, I had a problem with the lower attach point on both sides of the plane. After I had installed the plate nuts and put on the fiberglass to stiffen up the pants the lower attachment point on the front fairing was to deep for me to make the normal attachment with the recommended screws. I thought about bending the bracket to make it fit but was concerned I might weaken it or get it out of shape. What I ended up doing was adding a spacer, which is about 1/2" thick in front of the nut plate for support and then used a longer screw. I've attached a picture of what I'm talking about, assuming it doesn't get stripped off. Again just curious if anyone else has experienced this. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 0-540 B2B5?
Date: Nov 14, 2006
From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com>
Hey all - I perused the archives and couldn't find anything on the 0-540 B2B5 or its suitability for the RV-10. Anyone know if this is usable, or where I might be able to find out? cj #40410 fuse www.perfectlygoodairplane.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com>
Date: Nov 15, 2006
Subject: Re: 0-540 B2B5?
Chris, I believe that is a 235 HP motor with 7.5:1 comp pistons in it. It is compatible with the RV10 if it has the right EARS on the motor mounts. Is it an O-540 or IO-540? Dean 40449 ________________________________________________________________________

Chris,

I believe that is a 235 HP motor with 7.5:1 comp pistons in it.    It is compatible with the RV10 if it has the right EARS on the mo tor mounts.   Is it an O-540 or IO-540?

Dean

40449



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Subject: Re: 0-540 B2B5?
From: "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Date: Nov 14, 2006
Chris, Tim has this info posted on his website at http://myrv10.com/tips/engine_IO540.html The basic engine is compatible (it's a parallel valve) however you'll want to check both the mounting ear size as Dean said and also the counterweights. The 2nd digit in the suffix is usually a '4' if it has the proper counterweights for a Hartzel compact hub prop. It might also be missing the prop governer drive gear. Both of these are simple to change (especially with your background). Take a look at one of the charts on the above web page and you should get all the info you need. Bob Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=74631#74631 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 0-540 B2B5?
Date: Nov 14, 2006
From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com>
It's 0-540. does this mean I can change the pistons and it becomes a 260 hp version? cj 40410 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ddddsp1(at)juno.com Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 5:26 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: 0-540 B2B5? Chris, I believe that is a 235 HP motor with 7.5:1 comp pistons in it. It is compatible with the RV10 if it has the right EARS on the motor mounts. Is it an O-540 or IO-540? Dean 40449 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Post Component Construction Priming
Date: Nov 14, 2006
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
I've been think about doing something like this with some Lowes Depot misting nozzles adapted to some sort of tubing. The price they want for the "paint gun" version of the foggers is nuts. If I ever come up with something that works well I'll let the group know. Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Wright Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 6:42 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Post Component Construction Priming Before I started on my -10, I was setting up to build the CH 640 and went to the rudder workshop in Eastman, GA. There, on their certified Alarus airplanes, they've set up a contraption with holes drilled in PVC pipe (call it a "wand"), installed nozzles, and hooked up to an air pressure source. Then they take the long wand, put Corrosion X in it, insert it all the way down through the completed wing, begin spraying, and slowly pull it out of the wing. Look them up at www.newplane.com and ask for Terry (one of the owning partners) for more specifics. Feel free to mention that I referred you. I was also there this summer for our local EAA chapter's fly-in over there to check out their operation. He remembered me from a couple of years before, as my wife attended with me during the workshop. Great folks to talk to. Rob Wright #392 Fuse -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen) Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 1:54 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Post Component Construction Priming ACF-50 is the other big one out there for corrosion protection. I believe they both sell small versions of the FBO equipment for fogging. Might be one of those handy tools for a chapter to get. ACF and Corrosion-X are very similar and both work very well. They get into the tiniest of gaps and are completely non-conducting. This is the route I decided on way back rather than all the extra priming weight and effort. Michael Sausen -10 #352 Fuselage -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of millstees(at)ameritech.net Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 1:03 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Post Component Construction Priming I used corrosionX on my Arrow. It is sprayed on with a hand sprayer, and worked pretty well. www.corrosionx.com/ Steve Mills RV-10 40486 Slow-build Naperville, Illinois finishing fuselage -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 12:48 PM Subject: RV10-List: Post Component Construction Priming Hello Listers, For those of us a bit less consumed with priming (as in... we're not priming)... but wouldn't mind a some protection from corrosion, does anyone one know of a dipping or misting process that can be used on assembled components? Jeff Carpenter 40304 Flaps ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Koolmat Installation
Date: Nov 15, 2006
From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
Ok - time for another really dumb question. I am about to instal the Koolmat insulation on my firewall. The Koolmat has a silicone side that will withstand continuous temps up to 500=BAF and a fiberglass side rated to 1100=BAF. The Koolmat site indicates that the glue is applied to the fiberglass side. If the Koolmat is installed on the cabin side of the firwall, the silicone side is exposed to cabin temperature (ie much less than 500=BAF). This is also a fairly typical use of Koolmat in cars. If the Koolmat is installed on the engine side of the firewall (as I plan), the silicone side will be exposed to full heat of the engine compartment (may approach 500=BAF??). see http://www.koolmat.com/aircraft.shtml Why won't the silicone break down when exposed to the full engine heat? What am I not understanding here?? cheers, Ron trying to finish like everyone else. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Leikam" <DAVELEIKAM(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Post Component Construction Priming
Date: Nov 14, 2006
Here are two options for you. I am planning on one of these products after completion and painting. http://boeshield.com/index.htm http://www.nocorrosion.com/corrosion-control.htm Dave Leikam 40496 tailcone - (dimple, dimple, dimple...) N89DA Muskego, WI ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff Carpenter" <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 12:47 PM Subject: RV10-List: Post Component Construction Priming > > Hello Listers, > > For those of us a bit less consumed with priming (as in... we're not > priming)... but wouldn't mind a some protection from corrosion, does > anyone one know of a dipping or misting process that can be used on > assembled components? > > Jeff Carpenter > 40304 > Flaps > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: 0-540 B2B5?
From: "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Date: Nov 14, 2006
Sort of... look at the lineage of yours from one of the basic models and then do the same for the IO-540-D4A5. Most of the differences will be accessories, counterweights, mags, etc. For your engine, the jugs will have to come off to change the pistons. Doing this also exposes the crankshaft counterweights which could changed at the same time. The other obvious thing was that your engine doesn't have the drive gears for a prop governer. I took a quick look at the parts manual and it appears that you would have to split the case to put them in. Let me know if you want/need more info and I can get you more detail. Bob Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=74664#74664 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: 0-540 E vs C
From: "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Date: Nov 14, 2006
Turns out the power section identifier was for the first version of the engine in that series. Pick a couple engines from the info on Tim's web page and look at the lineage - you'll find that they essentially start with the same thing and are simply configuration differences. Funny thing is that occasionally you wind up with something like the IO-540-C4B5 and IO-540-D4A5 (different power section code) but are absolutely identical engines physically but rated differently. The C4B5 is rated 250@2575 and the D4A5 is 260@2700. You'll also see that the IO-540-D4A5 is the same as the O-540-E4A5 but with fuel injection instead of a carb. Bob Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=74667#74667 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris , Susie Darcy" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Re: Koolmat Installation
Date: Nov 15, 2006
Koolmat InstallationRon I have just installed Koolmat on firewall as a fix to what some are having with tunnel temps! Temps will never get that high unless you have a fire!! Went on easy . chris 40388 ----- Original Message ----- From: McGANN, Ron To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 2:19 PM Subject: RV10-List: Koolmat Installation Ok - time for another really dumb question. I am about to instal the Koolmat insulation on my firewall. The Koolmat has a silicone side that will withstand continuous temps up to 500=BAF and a fiberglass side rated to 1100=BAF. The Koolmat site indicates that the glue is applied to the fiberglass side. If the Koolmat is installed on the cabin side of the firwall, the silicone side is exposed to cabin temperature (ie much less than 500=BAF). This is also a fairly typical use of Koolmat in cars. If the Koolmat is installed on the engine side of the firewall (as I plan), the silicone side will be exposed to full heat of the engine compartment (may approach 500=BAF??). see http://www.koolmat.com/aircraft.shtml Why won't the silicone break down when exposed to the full engine heat? What am I not understanding here?? cheers, Ron trying to finish like everyone else. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com>
Date: Nov 15, 2006
Subject: 0-540 B2B5?
Chris, We did the exact thing to our B2B5 you wanna do. More than happy to tel l you HOW and WHAT if you wanna call. The worm gears for the prop gover nor drive are PRICEY! Let me know. Dean 40449 ________________________________________________________________________

Chris,

We did the exact thing to our B2B5 you wanna do.  More than happy to tell you HOW and WHAT if you wanna call.  The worm gears for the prop governor drive are PRICEY! Let me know. 

 

Dean 40449



______________________ __________________________________________________
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From: <mgeans(at)provide.net>
Subject: Kits/Family - A Review
Date: Nov 15, 2006
All, For those that may be interested and some who may be lurking, attached is some observations/converastions that my wife and I had based on all of the replies we recieved from the Kits and Family thread. It is a bit long, ~3 pages in Word, but an interesting read for those wanting to add thier 2 cents (we describe our buidling status scenerio in more detail and invite suggestions) and those considering building to have some helpful insight. On another note: I fished for a reply with a one liner on the original post with no specific replies and will try once more. It may have gotten scanned over. I have an opportunity to switch careers in which my employer will be overseas. If anyone has any expirience or knows someone who does, in such matters and what to be wary of or be sure you include in your "package" as an employee I would like to share more info about the scenerio for your feedback. It is a life altering opportunity and I am checking all sorts of leads where I could make myself knowledgeable before my visit with them. For those who are considering a build, or know of someone who is, I will be downloading all the replies that we recieved from this original post into a Word document to consolidate all the advice for our and anyone's future use. Contact me directly if you would be interested in getting this document. Thanks to all for your help. 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//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////////////////////////////////8BAP7/AwoAAP////8GCQIAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABG GAAAAE1pY3Jvc29mdCBXb3JkIERvY3VtZW50AAoAAABNU1dvcmREb2MAEAAAAFdvcmQuRG9j dW1lbnQuOAD0ObJxAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA= ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 15, 2006
Subject: Re: 0-540 B2B5?
In a message dated 11/14/2006 8:30:26 PM Eastern Standard Time, ddddsp1(at)juno.com writes: Is it an O-540 O-540 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: LOC
Each year at the end of the List Fund Raiser, I post a message acknowledging everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its sort of my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation for the Lists. Won't you take a moment and assure that your name is on that List of Contributors (LOC)? As a number of members have pointed out over the years, the List seems at least - if not a whole lot more - valuable as a building/flying/recreating/entertainment tool as your typical magazine subscription! Please take minute and assure that your name is on this year's LOC! Show others that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is fast and easy using your Credit card or Paypal on the Secure Web Site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or by popping a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics PO Box 347 Livermore CA 94551-0347 I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps these Lists going and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about how the Lists have helped you! Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 2006
From: "Mike Lauritsen - Work" <mike(at)cleavelandtool.com>
Subject: Re: Post Component Construction Priming
We sell Boshield in small qty. for use on tools to keep them from rusting. We are a dealer and can have gallons or 5's drop shipped from Boeshield and possibly save some money. Email me if interested. mike cleavelandtool.com FYI this has been my corrosion plan all along. Mike Cleaveland Aircraft Tool On 11/14/06, Dave Leikam wrote: > > Here are two options for you. I am planning on one of these products after > completion and painting. > > http://boeshield.com/index.htm > > http://www.nocorrosion.com/corrosion-control.htm > > Dave Leikam > 40496 > tailcone - (dimple, dimple, dimple...) > N89DA > Muskego, WI > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 2006
From: Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Rivethead - are they shipping any product?
Are you close to flying? I suspect the only time to really "need" them would be final rigging of the elevator trim. I only trial fitted mine when I installed the HS and elevator which really could have a waited till final assembly...which is 6 months away and that was a year and a half ago. Silver brazing rods and a torch makes Van's versions work just fine in the "Really need tham catagory" ;) Rick S. 40185 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 2006
From: Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Rivethead - are they shipping any product? Yes
Lol..... I hate loose ends as well. I don't think the holes line up with the Van's 415's with the Rivethead version which, by the way I need to order along with some new access panels due to the hole allignment issue. Anyone using the Van's versions save yourself some grief and wait to final rivet the 415's to the panel until after your final rigging. It's way easier to turn them when they are not attched to the panel, just cleco until they are properly adjusted. Rick S. 40185 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Subject: Re: Post Component Construction Priming
Date: Nov 15, 2006
Hi Mike, Do you have any sense of the coverage you'll get with the Boeshield, or, more to the point, how much you'll use on the 10? Jeff Carpenter 40304 On Nov 15, 2006, at 6:28 AM, Mike Lauritsen - Work wrote: > > > We sell Boshield in small qty. for use on tools to keep them from > rusting. We are a dealer and can have gallons or 5's drop shipped > from Boeshield and possibly save some money. Email me if interested. > mike cleavelandtool.com > > FYI this has been my corrosion plan all along. > > Mike > Cleaveland Aircraft Tool > > > On 11/14/06, Dave Leikam wrote: >> >> Here are two options for you. I am planning on one of these >> products after >> completion and painting. >> >> http://boeshield.com/index.htm >> >> http://www.nocorrosion.com/corrosion-control.htm >> >> Dave Leikam >> 40496 >> tailcone - (dimple, dimple, dimple...) >> N89DA >> Muskego, WI >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 2006
From: "Mike Lauritsen - Work" <mike(at)cleavelandtool.com>
Subject: Re: Post Component Construction Corrosion Protection
Here is all the goody, short answer is 500 to 1000 sq. ft./gal. and I don' t know how much for the -10 1.* Corrosion Inhibition* Meets BSS7220 and FED-STD-791, Method 4001 (Max. 3 dots 1mm per 10 square inches after 100 hours salt spray). Meets ASTM G-34 (Exfoliation Test). 2.* Water Displacement* Meets MIL-C-16173D. Paragraph 46.11. No evidence of pitting, mottling, or staining. 3. *Penetrability* Capillary height of rise 1.2" minimum in bore =F8=0.015" at room temperat ure. 4. *Wet ability* 30 dynes/cm. 5. *Flow* Viscosity is 6 centistokes at 75=B11=B0F. 6. *Adhesion at Low Temperatures *Flaking less than 1/32" at -40=B15K (MIL-O-16173D). 7. *Removability* Aliphatic Naptha, Cleaning Solvent 8. *Solids* 38% 9. *Flash Point* Approximately 156=B0F. (TCC.) 10. *Coverage* 500 to 1000 sq. ft. per gallon. On 11/15/06, Jeff Carpenter wrote: > > > Hi Mike, > > Do you have any sense of the coverage you'll get with the Boeshield, > or, more to the point, how much you'll use on the 10? > > Jeff Carpenter > 40304 > > > On Nov 15, 2006, at 6:28 AM, Mike Lauritsen - Work wrote: > > > > > > > We sell Boshield in small qty. for use on tools to keep them from > > rusting. We are a dealer and can have gallons or 5's drop shipped > > from Boeshield and possibly save some money. Email me if interested. > > mike cleavelandtool.com > > > > FYI this has been my corrosion plan all along. > > > > Mike > > Cleaveland Aircraft Tool > > > > > > > > > > On 11/14/06, Dave Leikam wrote: > >> > >> Here are two options for you. I am planning on one of these > >> products after > >> completion and painting. > >> > >> http://boeshield.com/index.htm > >> > >> http://www.nocorrosion.com/corrosion-control.htm > >> > >> Dave Leikam > >> 40496 > >> tailcone - (dimple, dimple, dimple...) > >> N89DA > >> Muskego, WI > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > =========== =========== =========== > > -- Mike Lauritsen Cleaveland Aircraft Tool 515-432-6794 www.cleavelandtool.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Subject: Re: Post Component Construction Corrosion Protection
Date: Nov 15, 2006
Have you thought through the timing of the application... before/ after exterior paint... and if there's an increased danger of fire after it's been applied? It seems to me that pre-paint application could contaminate the exterior and post paint application would be a lot more difficult... assuming the plane is in a more "assembled" state. I'm guessing the flash point decreases after the solvents have evaporated, but I picture a somewhat oily quality in its final state... giving me some pause about the fire issue. Jeff Carpenter 40304 On Nov 15, 2006, at 9:27 AM, Mike Lauritsen - Work wrote: > Here is all the goody, short answer is 500 to 1000 sq. ft./gal. > and I don't know how much for the -10 > > > 1. Corrosion Inhibition > Meets BSS7220 and FED-STD-791, Method 4001 (Max. 3 dots 1mm per 10 > square inches after 100 hours salt spray). Meets ASTM G-34 > (Exfoliation Test). > > 2. Water Displacement > Meets MIL-C-16173D. Paragraph 46.11. No evidence of pitting, > mottling, > or staining. > > 3. Penetrability > Capillary height of rise 1.2" minimum in bore =F8= 0.015" at room > temperature. > > 4. Wet ability > 30 dynes/cm. > > 5. Flow > Viscosity is 6 centistokes at 75=B11=B0F. > > 6. Adhesion at Low Temperatures > Flaking less than 1/32" at -40=B15K (MIL-O-16173D). > > 7. Removability > Aliphatic Naptha, Cleaning Solvent > > 8. Solids > 38% > > 9. Flash Point > Approximately 156=B0F. (TCC.) > > 10. Coverage > 500 to 1000 sq. ft. per gallon. > > > On 11/15/06, Jeff Carpenter wrote: > > > Hi Mike, > > Do you have any sense of the coverage you'll get with the Boeshield, > or, more to the point, how much you'll use on the 10? > > Jeff Carpenter > 40304 > > > On Nov 15, 2006, at 6:28 AM, Mike Lauritsen - Work wrote: > > > > > > > We sell Boshield in small qty. for use on tools to keep them from > > rusting. We are a dealer and can have gallons or 5's drop shipped > > from Boeshield and possibly save some money. Email me if > interested. > > mike cleavelandtool.com > > > > FYI this has been my corrosion plan all along. > > > > Mike > > Cleaveland Aircraft Tool > > > > > > > > > > On 11/14/06, Dave Leikam < DAVELEIKAM(at)wi.rr.com> wrote: > > >> > >> Here are two options for you. I am planning on one of these > >> products after > >> completion and painting. > >> > >> http://boeshield.com/index.htm > >> > >> http://www.nocorrosion.com/corrosion-control.htm > >> > >> Dave Leikam > >> 40496 > >> tailcone - (dimple, dimple, dimple...) > >> N89DA > >> Muskego, WI > >> > > > ======================== tric bsp; * The Builder's Bookstore > > sp; -Ma============== ========= ef="http:// > www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http:// > www.matronics.co=================== = > > > -- > Mike Lauritsen > Cleaveland Aircraft Tool > 515-432-6794 > www.cleavelandtool.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Post Component Construction Corrosion Protection
Date: Nov 15, 2006
These are all very valid points. Perhaps add one more to the list...smell! Some of this stuff may leave a smell which depending on where it is applied could migrate into the cockpit...when one get sea sick it usually is not just the rolling ocean, but the diesel exhaust also. Wouldn't that suck after putting in 1600 hours of building. Something to think about. John G. >From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> >Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV10-List: Post Component Construction Corrosion Protection >Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2006 10:21:07 -0800 > >Have you thought through the timing of the application... before/ after >exterior paint... and if there's an increased danger of fire after it's >been applied? > >It seems to me that pre-paint application could contaminate the exterior >and post paint application would be a lot more difficult... assuming the >plane is in a more "assembled" state. > >I'm guessing the flash point decreases after the solvents have evaporated, >but I picture a somewhat oily quality in its final state... giving me some >pause about the fire issue. > >Jeff Carpenter >40304 > > >On Nov 15, 2006, at 9:27 AM, Mike Lauritsen - Work wrote: > >>Here is all the goody, short answer is 500 to 1000 sq. ft./gal. and I >>don't know how much for the -10 >> >> >> >> >>1. Corrosion Inhibition >>Meets BSS7220 and FED-STD-791, Method 4001 (Max. 3 dots 1mm per 10 square >>inches after 100 hours salt spray). Meets ASTM G-34 >>(Exfoliation Test). >> >>2. Water Displacement >>Meets MIL-C-16173D. Paragraph 46.11. No evidence of pitting, mottling, >>or staining. >> >>3. Penetrability >>Capillary height of rise 1.2" minimum in bore = 0.015" at room >>temperature. >> >>4. Wet ability >>30 dynes/cm. >> >>5. Flow >>Viscosity is 6 centistokes at 751F. >> >>6. Adhesion at Low Temperatures >>Flaking less than 1/32" at -405K (MIL-O-16173D). >> >>7. Removability >>Aliphatic Naptha, Cleaning Solvent >> >>8. Solids >>38% >> >>9. Flash Point >>Approximately 156F. (TCC.) >> >>10. Coverage >>500 to 1000 sq. ft. per gallon. >> >> >> >> >>On 11/15/06, Jeff Carpenter wrote: >> >>Hi Mike, >> >>Do you have any sense of the coverage you'll get with the Boeshield, >>or, more to the point, how much you'll use on the 10? >> >>Jeff Carpenter >>40304 >> >> >>On Nov 15, 2006, at 6:28 AM, Mike Lauritsen - Work wrote: >> >> > >> > >> > We sell Boshield in small qty. for use on tools to keep them from >> > rusting. We are a dealer and can have gallons or 5's drop shipped >> > from Boeshield and possibly save some money. Email me if interested. >> > mike cleavelandtool.com >> > >> > FYI this has been my corrosion plan all along. >> > >> > Mike >> > Cleaveland Aircraft Tool >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > On 11/14/06, Dave Leikam < DAVELEIKAM(at)wi.rr.com> wrote: >> >> >> >> Here are two options for you. I am planning on one of these >> >> products after >> >> completion and painting. >> >> >> >> http://boeshield.com/index.htm >> >> >> >> http://www.nocorrosion.com/corrosion-control.htm >> >> >> >> Dave Leikam >> >> 40496 >> >> tailcone - (dimple, dimple, dimple...) >> >> N89DA >> >> Muskego, WI >> >> >> > >>======================== tric bsp; * The Builder's Bookstore > sp; >> -Ma======================= ef="http:// >>www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http:// >>www.matronics.co==================== >> >> >> >> >> >> >>-- >>Mike Lauritsen >>Cleaveland Aircraft Tool >>515-432-6794 >>www.cleavelandtool.com >> >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 2006
From: "Mike Lauritsen - Work" <mike(at)cleavelandtool.com>
Subject: Re: Post Component Construction Corrosion Protection
I thought I had mentioned that, but perhaps that was not on the list. I am planning on using it during the annual after the paint is applied. I don't want it to contaminate the paint and it likely will. It is difficult to remove after application (think candle wax). I want to make certain the paint is good and cured before application. Our RV-4 still is shiny inside after 18 years so I am not too worried about it one way or another. Once the mineral spirits flashes off I don't think there would be any risk of fire, but then again, think candle wax... I will check into this. It is no t an oily residue more of just a buildup. Mike On 11/15/06, Jeff Carpenter wrote: > > Have you thought through the timing of the application... before/after > exterior paint... and if there's an increased danger of fire after it's b een > applied? > > It seems to me that pre-paint application could contaminate the exterior > and post paint application would be a lot more difficult... assuming the > plane is in a more "assembled" state. > > > I'm guessing the flash point decreases after the solvents have evaporated , > but I picture a somewhat oily quality in its final state... giving me som e > pause about the fire issue. > > > Jeff Carpenter > 40304 > > > On Nov 15, 2006, at 9:27 AM, Mike Lauritsen - Work wrote: > > Here is all the goody, short answer is 500 to 1000 sq. ft./gal. and I > don't know how much for the -10 > > > 1.* Corrosion Inhibition* > Meets BSS7220 and FED-STD-791, Method 4001 (Max. 3 dots 1mm per 10 square > inches after 100 hours salt spray). Meets ASTM G-34 > (Exfoliation Test). > > 2.* Water Displacement* > Meets MIL-C-16173D. Paragraph 46.11. No evidence of pitting, mottling, > or staining. > > 3. *Penetrability* > Capillary height of rise 1.2" minimum in bore =F8= 0.015" at room > temperature. > > 4. *Wet ability* > 30 dynes/cm. > > 5. *Flow* > Viscosity is 6 centistokes at 75=B11=B0F. > > 6. *Adhesion at Low Temperatures > *Flaking less than 1/32" at -40=B15K (MIL-O-16173D). > > 7. *Removability* > Aliphatic Naptha, Cleaning Solvent > > 8. *Solids* > 38% > > 9. *Flash Point* > Approximately 156=B0F. (TCC.) > > 10. *Coverage* > 500 to 1000 sq. ft. per gallon. > > > On 11/15/06, Jeff Carpenter wrote: > > > > > > > > Hi Mike, > > > > Do you have any sense of the coverage you'll get with the Boeshield, > > or, more to the point, how much you'll use on the 10? > > > > Jeff Carpenter > > 40304 > > > > > > On Nov 15, 2006, at 6:28 AM, Mike Lauritsen - Work wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > We sell Boshield in small qty. for use on tools to keep them from > > > rusting. We are a dealer and can have gallons or 5's drop shipped > > > from Boeshield and possibly save some money. Email me if interested. > > > mike cleavelandtool.com > > > > > > FYI this has been my corrosion plan all along. > > > > > > Mike > > > Cleaveland Aircraft Tool > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On 11/14/06, Dave Leikam < DAVELEIKAM(at)wi.rr.com> wrote: > > > >> > > >> Here are two options for you. I am planning on one of these > > >> products after > > >> completion and painting. > > >> > > >> http://boeshield.com/index.htm > > >> > > >> http://www.nocorrosion.com/corrosion-control.htm > > >> > > >> Dave Leikam > > >> 40496 > > >> tailcone - (dimple, dimple, dimple...) > > >> N89DA > > >> Muskego, WI > > >> > > > > > ======================= = tric bsp; * The Builder's Bookstore > sp; -Ma ====================== > > ef="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.co==================== > > > > > > > > > > <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> > > <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> > > > -- > Mike Lauritsen > Cleaveland Aircraft Tool > 515-432-6794 > <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>www.cleavelandtool.com > > * > href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com > href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com > href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com > href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ontribution > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com/Navigator?RV10-List > * > > > * > =========== =========== =========== > * > > -- Mike Lauritsen Cleaveland Aircraft Tool 515-432-6794 www.cleavelandtool.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Stanley" <chris(at)christopherstanley.com>
Subject: Re: Post Component Construction Priming
Date: Nov 15, 2006
I am using a Sherwin Williams rattle can one step. I can't remember the numbers, but it's something like Primer no. 348. If you're really interested, I'll go back and get specifics for you. Christopher Stanley 80% on empenage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris , Susie Darcy" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Re: Kits/Family - A Review
Date: Nov 16, 2006
Just build!!! Less talk !!! Just build!!! You can do it!!! Please take no offence but you could have built half the tail while ...well im not sure realy what you were actualy on about!!. Please take no offece and as I say to my builders Just build ....no time and space....I built my whole tail and cone on the dining room table and bedtroom while also building a house for us to move into. No Money get a part time job ( cant build a 10 on fireman wages)! Its easy just do it.............Build.......... An hour a day and you will finish. Again take no offence Kind regards Chris 388 ----- Original Message ----- From: <mgeans(at)provide.net> Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 6:01 PM Subject: RV10-List: Kits/Family - A Review > All, > > For those that may be interested and some who may be > lurking, attached is some observations/converastions that > my wife and I had based on all of the replies we recieved > from the Kits and Family thread. > > It is a bit long, ~3 pages in Word, but an interesting read > for those wanting to add thier 2 cents (we describe our > buidling status scenerio in more detail and invite > suggestions) and those considering building to have some > helpful insight. > > On another note: > I fished for a reply with a one liner on the original post > with no specific replies and will try once more. It may > have gotten scanned over. > I have an opportunity to switch careers in which my > employer will be overseas. If anyone has any expirience or > knows someone who does, in such matters and what to be wary > of or be sure you include in your "package" as an employee > I would like to share more info about the scenerio for your > feedback. It is a life altering opportunity and I am > checking all sorts of leads where I could make myself > knowledgeable before my visit with them. > > For those who are considering a build, or know of someone > who is, I will be downloading all the replies that we > recieved from this original post into a Word document to > consolidate all the advice for our and anyone's future use. > Contact me directly if you would be interested in getting > this document. > > Thanks to all for your help. > > Matt Geans > Builder Wanna-be > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 2006
Subject: Re: Post Component Construction Priming
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net>
Chris Stanley wrote: > > I am using a Sherwin Williams rattle can one step. I cant remember > the numbers, but its something like Primer no. 348. If youre really > interested, Ill go back and get specifics for you. > Sherwin Williams 988: <http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=7565> -Dj ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rob Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: 0-540 E vs C
Date: Nov 15, 2006
Bob, Thanks. It always helps to have a confirmation. I bought a -F4B5 from an R44 and had it overhauled to a D4A5. The research I had done led me to believe that the two engines were identical, just certificated at different rating depending on the airplane installation. The overhauler told me the same thing, and then even wrote ... reconfigured to -C4B5 in the engine logbook. It's when I asked him about the C4B5 write-up that he told me about the same engine/different rating issue. So yes, even though my logbook says that it was reconfigured to a -C4B5, I plan on operating it as high as 2700 RPM for the 260 HP. So here's a follow up question for the A&P types: even though I know that I "can" operate it however I want to since it's an experimental installation, since I'd like to keep decent records on the engine should I make a write-up of my intentions to operate the engine as a D4A5? Rob Wright #392 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bcondrey Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 10:35 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: 0-540 E vs C Turns out the power section identifier was for the first version of the engine in that series. Pick a couple engines from the info on Tim's web page and look at the lineage - you'll find that they essentially start with the same thing and are simply configuration differences. Funny thing is that occasionally you wind up with something like the IO-540-C4B5 and IO-540-D4A5 (different power section code) but are absolutely identical engines physically but rated differently. The C4B5 is rated 250@2575 and the D4A5 is 260@2700. You'll also see that the IO-540-D4A5 is the same as the O-540-E4A5 but with fuel injection instead of a carb. Bob Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=74667#74667 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: L Aune <lcaune(at)cablelan.net>
Subject: Rudder pedal bolt direction
Date: Nov 15, 2006
When reversing the bolt on the rudder pedals I used an old helicopter trick of tucking the loose ends of the cotter pins back into one of the castellations to finish them off. This should keep your feet from snagging on them. Len 40381 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Pattern for Front Seat Upholstery
Date: Nov 15, 2006
I wonder if a few of us that are able to sew up our own upholstery could pitch in and pay some professional upholsterer to come up with a good set of patterns for the rv10 seat? I=92ve sewn quite a few interiors but I=92ve always worked from the old material used as a pattern=85. Steve 40205 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Niko Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 5:37 PM Subject: RV10-List: Pattern for Front Seat Upholstery Has anyone either developed or gotten a pattern for uphostering the front seats? Niko 40188 "http://www.aeroelectric.com"www.aeroelectric.com "http://www.buildersbooks.com"www.buildersbooks.com "http://www.kitlog.com"www.kitlog.com "http://www.homebuilthelp.com"www.homebuilthelp.com "http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribut ion "http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Na vig ator?RV10-List -- 11/13/2006 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. 11/14/2006 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Murray Randall" <aeroads(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: 0-540 E vs C0-540 E vs C
Date: Nov 16, 2006
An easy way to get all the Type Certificate Data Sheets.....Google in "type certificate data sheets", conveniently gets you down a few layers in FAA.gov, in the FAA search window enter lycoming A1D5 say....you'll get the Lycoming E295 data sheet in PFD format which provides much interesting information play with it....all the TCD's are available and make interesting reading Murray ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Condon" <schnooze(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Kits/Family - A Review
Date: Nov 16, 2006
As another Builder Wanna-be (I became a wanna-be in 1999 and have been on the wanna-be list continuously since), I'll add a perspective that may, or may not, be of value -- In this thread, there is one missing statistic, and replies missing from one group. The missing statistic is: how many/what percentage of kits end up in a garage/storage shed, never to see the light of day again? The missing perspective is from those previous builders who stopped building - what happened such that they couldn't / didn't complete their kit? I don't know what the number/percentage of unfinished kits is, but I know that it is more than zero. Certainly, some kits go unfinished because of the death of the owner or the workshop burns down, but I have to believe that many kits go unfinished because the newbie simply bites off more than he can chew. As a 20-year Navy veteran, I continually witnessed every day as outside agencies tried to shoehorn in one program after another into our workdays - their justification was that there was always more slop time left to accomplish the newly important program. But, I always asked the question - if you want me to spend time on this new program, which old program should I spend less time on? Building an airplane undoubtedly takes time, and a prospective builder needs to do a realistic check, comparing what he/she does with his time now against what his/her schedule will look like while building. In the abstract, it may sound easy to extract 5, 10 or 20 hours per week form one's current calendar (equating to 2 - 8 years to build a 2000 hour aircraft) - but remember that those 5, 10 or 20 hours must come from somewhere. It may be easy if you are merely giving up watching TV or surfing the internet. Likewise, if you are retired or have a nag of a spouse, you might relish the option of putting your time towards a project. But, if you have a demanding job, a pending move, or family commitments (and only you can define what your family commitments are), then it will be more difficult to stay focused on a project. After 7 years as a wanna-be, I have chosen to work towards saving money for my project and make the plunge once I know that I can make the required commitment to my project. This view may not reflect on the members of this newsgroup (who are clearly a highly motivated and capable group), nor may it reflect the exhortations of kit manufacturers, but it does reflect the reality facing me. And, it has kept me from becoming a statistic in the group of 'kit unfinished - no current progress'. I'm not certain, but I think that once one enters the statistic of 'kit unfinished - no current progress', it is very difficult to get re-motivated to get back to 'kit unfinished - work in progress'. (my apologies to those who have made this recovery) Bill C. Wanna-be builder Navy vet, and now a Navy spouse Naples IT mgeans(at)provide.net wrote: > All, > > For those that may be interested and some who may be > lurking, attached is some observations/converastions that > my wife and I had based on all of the replies we recieved > from the Kits and Family thread. > > It is a bit long, ~3 pages in Word, but an interesting read > for those wanting to add thier 2 cents (we describe our > buidling status scenerio in more detail and invite > suggestions) and those considering building to have some > helpful insight. > > On another note: > I fished for a reply with a one liner on the original post > with no specific replies and will try once more. It may > have gotten scanned over. > I have an opportunity to switch careers in which my > employer will be overseas. If anyone has any expirience or > knows someone who does, in such matters and what to be wary > of or be sure you include in your "package" as an employee > I would like to share more info about the scenerio for your > feedback. It is a life altering opportunity and I am > checking all sorts of leads where I could make myself > knowledgeable before my visit with them. > > For those who are considering a build, or know of someone > who is, I will be downloading all the replies that we > recieved from this original post into a Word document to > consolidate all the advice for our and anyone's future use. > Contact me directly if you would be interested in getting > this document. > > Thanks to all for your help. > > Matt Geans > Builder Wanna-be ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Kits/Family - A Review
Date: Nov 16, 2006
From: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips(at)cardinal.com>
Bill, I expect EAA has some statistics on the number of projects completed vs. projects started. It is probably higher now that most projects are kits, but for years the number of completed projects was less than 25%. I personally know of more unfinished (and never likely to be finished) projects than I do active projects in my area, and we have a pretty active builder base in our local EAA chapter. An interesting statistic is that fewer than 1 in 4 builders complete their projects, but many builders, perhaps 1 in 3, build a second or third airplane after completing their first one. The RV-10 is my third airplane project (and my first kit), having worked in steel tube (Pitts Special), wood (Pietenpol Air Camper) and now aluminum. I'm already thinking about what kind of plane I'll build next, after the -10 is finished. The logical choice would be something made of composites, but I really don't like working with fiberglass. I think you are smart to consider all these factors before plunging into building. I find I can pretty consistently average 10 hours a week on an airplane project while working a full time job that requires some travel, keeping a newlywed wife happy (it helps that she likes to fly and is anxious to get the -10 finished so she can be more comfortable than she is in the back seat of my RV-4), and maintaining and flying the RV-4 and Pietenpol. More than 10 hours a week becomes somewhat of a strain. You're very astute in your statement that "...once one enters the statistic of 'kit unfinished - no current progress', it is very difficult to get re-motivated to get back to 'kit unfinished - work in progress'. " The best way to avoid that is to try to do SOMETHING on the project every day, even if it is just to look at the plans and figure out how you're going to do the next step, or plan your instrument panel, or dream up a paint scheme. Do something to keep the project in your mind and you will never have to come back to it and say "Now where was I? What was I doing when I last worked on this? Oh yeah, I had screwed up and put a big ding in the stabilizer skin". I think a lot of projects get abandoned because the builder made a mistake and lost interest, rather than going back and correcting the mistake. There are very few mistakes in building a plane that can't be fixed, and NO airplane is flying without a few screw-ups hidden in them somewhere. Just correct the mistake (either repair it or replace the damaged component) and move on. By the way, a copy of AC 43.13 is very handy to have when it comes time to repair something on your project. It is the BIBLE for how to repair aircraft structures. Good luck, Jack Phillips Raleigh, NC #40610 Building Elevators now -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Condon Sent: Thursday, November 16, 2006 6:55 AM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RE: RV10-List: Kits/Family - A Review As another Builder Wanna-be (I became a wanna-be in 1999 and have been on the wanna-be list continuously since), I'll add a perspective that may, or may not, be of value -- In this thread, there is one missing statistic, and replies missing from one group. The missing statistic is: how many/what percentage of kits end up in a garage/storage shed, never to see the light of day again? The missing perspective is from those previous builders who stopped building - what happened such that they couldn't / didn't complete their kit? I don't know what the number/percentage of unfinished kits is, but I know that it is more than zero. Certainly, some kits go unfinished because of the death of the owner or the workshop burns down, but I have to believe that many kits go unfinished because the newbie simply bites off more than he can chew. As a 20-year Navy veteran, I continually witnessed every day as outside agencies tried to shoehorn in one program after another into our workdays - their justification was that there was always more slop time left to accomplish the newly important program. But, I always asked the question - if you want me to spend time on this new program, which old program should I spend less time on? Building an airplane undoubtedly takes time, and a prospective builder needs to do a realistic check, comparing what he/she does with his time now against what his/her schedule will look like while building. In the abstract, it may sound easy to extract 5, 10 or 20 hours per week form one's current calendar (equating to 2 - 8 years to build a 2000 hour aircraft) - but remember that those 5, 10 or 20 hours must come from somewhere. It may be easy if you are merely giving up watching TV or surfing the internet. Likewise, if you are retired or have a nag of a spouse, you might relish the option of putting your time towards a project. But, if you have a demanding job, a pending move, or family commitments (and only you can define what your family commitments are), then it will be more difficult to stay focused on a project. After 7 years as a wanna-be, I have chosen to work towards saving money for my project and make the plunge once I know that I can make the required commitment to my project. This view may not reflect on the members of this newsgroup (who are clearly a highly motivated and capable group), nor may it reflect the exhortations of kit manufacturers, but it does reflect the reality facing me. And, it has kept me from becoming a statistic in the group of 'kit unfinished - no current progress'. I'm not certain, but I think that once one enters the statistic of 'kit unfinished - no current progress', it is very difficult to get re-motivated to get back to 'kit unfinished - work in progress'. (my apologies to those who have made this recovery) Bill C. Wanna-be builder Navy vet, and now a Navy spouse Naples IT _________________________________________________ This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privilege d, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have received it i n error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the original. Any other use of the email by you is prohibited. Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - N ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Post Component Construction Priming
Date: Nov 16, 2006
From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com>
It is also sold at Napa as 7220, made by a division of Sherwin Williams, and often easier to get in rural areas, because the automotive paint stores for them are difficult to find outside of big cities Dan N289DT (RV10E) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dj Merrill Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 5:28 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Post Component Construction Priming Chris Stanley wrote: > > I am using a Sherwin Williams rattle can one step. I can't remember > the numbers, but it's something like Primer no. 348. If you're really > interested, I'll go back and get specifics for you. > Sherwin Williams 988: <http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=756 5> -Dj ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Kits/Family - A Review
Date: Nov 16, 2006
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
I got a motorhome just in case, but the desire to build did not subside with the purchase. The answer to your question is YES. Spars can and should be checked with both Eddy Current and Ultrasonic to find hidden flaws. How often? Probably not in our aircraft's lifetime. If it was a Harmon Rocket, probably but not necessarily I would do it. If I was doing a pre-purchase for a client on a Beech T-6 or T-34 then the cost would be clearly a prudent expenditure. If I was doing one on the Yaks and Nanchang warbirds I work on, ABSOLUTELY. What has been learned or Revisited is that metal indeed has memory. It is going to fail after it has lived its life. Corrosion only speeds the reality of the memory. Hence the value of corrosion protection. Hence the value of NDT - Non Destructive Testing. At work, if we even slip and induce a simple scratch in the skin of our birds, then Eddy Current is called in after blending away the scratch to confirm no crack was induced from the initial damage or from the heat of sanding (that's hand sanding not mechanical). (Automatic $1,000 cost to the company and a letter to Engineering to ask permission to remediate and test). Ultra-sound is used to determine that the final thickness is still within 0.003" of the original 0.060". If you took that anal approach to 0.025" then we would all be in a world of hurt. Alclad is only 5% of 0.025" per side. Ever looked at the skin after dragging across the dimpler. We have one gal at work that bought the $125,000 equipment just to provide such tasks to the outside GA market. These hired guns get paid doctors wages to find the cancer before the aircraft becomes a statistic. (This recital is a result of reading your Word attachment). There is probably no finer 4 passenger kit available today than the RV-10. Simply following of the instruction documents and a modicum of budget excess to allow for improvement in avionics and you can exceed Certificated Aircraft alternatives on a much more prudent budget. John Cox -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of mgeans(at)provide.net Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 11:02 PM Subject: RV10-List: Kits/Family - A Review All, For those that may be interested and some who may be lurking, attached is some observations/converastions that my wife and I had based on all of the replies we recieved from the Kits and Family thread. It is a bit long, ~3 pages in Word, but an interesting read for those wanting to add thier 2 cents (we describe our buidling status scenerio in more detail and invite suggestions) and those considering building to have some helpful insight. On another note: I fished for a reply with a one liner on the original post with no specific replies and will try once more. It may have gotten scanned over. I have an opportunity to switch careers in which my employer will be overseas. If anyone has any expirience or knows someone who does, in such matters and what to be wary of or be sure you include in your "package" as an employee I would like to share more info about the scenerio for your feedback. It is a life altering opportunity and I am checking all sorts of leads where I could make myself knowledgeable before my visit with them. For those who are considering a build, or know of someone who is, I will be downloading all the replies that we recieved from this original post into a Word document to consolidate all the advice for our and anyone's future use. Contact me directly if you would be interested in getting this document. Thanks to all for your help. Matt Geans Builder Wanna-be ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 2006
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Okay - Okay tell me I'm just sarcastic
on the RV-12 John, Color me confused. What kit certification? Is it not an amateur built experimental aircraft? Is there some certification beyond DAR acceptance of the completed aircraft? IIRC, Van's only FAA certification is for the quick build complying with the 51% rule. Or are you talking about the RV-12 and Light Sport certification? Has Van provided a G number that the wing spar is good for, positive and negative? Do we even know if that is the weak point, or perhaps the tail, or the gear leg mounting points or who knows what the recommended gross weight is based on? Certainly it can't be balked landing climb rate. ;-) On 11/16/06, John W. Cox wrote: > > > John, for the purpose of expanded clarification, do you espouse that those > aircraft which have added additional fuel tanks have moved to the dark side > as well? The reason for asking is the additional weight on the VAN designed > spar (with extension) cannot perform to the same standards in maneuvering > speed turbulence as the prototype N410RV used for kit certification. > > > That was the reason for the phrase I used last week "Design for Aerobatic, > Load to Utility and fly Standard Category 3.8 G". I perceive many builders > have dismissed it our did not understand the consequence. It was > commonplace for the Lancair plastics to just up their Gross Weight on paper > for certification to cover the additional mods without regard to the spar > and the landing gear capability. Kabang. > > > For those willing to move to the dark side, the process is as easy as > finding a DER (Designated Engineering Rep) willing to go with you and then > provide the plane for the same testing that the FAA required of VAN. > Remember to pack a current chute. > > > J Cox > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Subject: Some Observations after Two Years of Building
Date: Nov 16, 2006
Today marks the two year anniversary of the arrival of my tail kit and it seems a good time to post some observations I've made over the course of those 730 days: I've put in 905 hours... an average of 1.74 per day, 5 days per week. Not quite the 2 hours per day that I had planned. As others have pointed out on this list from time to time, things happen over during a project like this. Life changes, and if you're going to finish, you will likely have to change your expectations from time to time and keep forging ahead in any way you can. In my case, it was severe Tennis Elbow in both arms (the result of a four hour riveting session with my pneumatic squeezer) that cost me the better part of three months of work and about $1,000 in physical therapy. The DRDT-2 is a must, and with it you should dimple "missionary" style. I spent a long time dragging skins over the male dimple die... hunting around for the hole (all puns here are intended)... before I realized how easy it was to dimple skins from the top down. Time spent setting up is time saved working. Measure three times. Cut once. Find a comfortable position to stand in before pulling the trigger on the rivet gun. That will save your skins as well as your back. Some riveting simply can't be done alone If you feel as if you are about to make a mistake, you're probably right. Read the plans again... and again... and again... until what you are doing becomes clear. And, remember, it's the left side that's pictured in the plans. If you're tired, don't work. If it hurts, stop. Vary your work. Don't just countersink for hours on end... or rivet or deburr or even dimple. Repetitive tasks will take their toll over time ( I have the elbows to prove it) Finally, there are no "stupid" questions. None of us learn or understand things in the same way and what might be obvious to one person is anything but that to another. For me, it took an embarrassing amount of time to really understand why we deburr. I did it, dutifully, but it wasn't until I was well into the wing that I got the mental picture of a sharp edged rib flange cutting into a skin as the plane vibrated under power. I think we need to make a better effort on this list to avoid jumping all over someone for asking a question (even a priming question) just because the answer is obvious to some of us. I have a sense that there are many "lurkers" out there afraid to address the list for fear that they will appear less smart or less sophisticated or just flat out stupid. If we want a safe fleet of RV-10's flying in the future, then we have to indulge even the most basic questions and we have to remember that new people coming on to the list have to go through the same discovery process as those who started it. Hats off to Tim Olson for his contributions, but even more so for his tone. I think it's an example we should all follow. Jeff Carpenter 40304 Elbow braces securely fastened Riveting the right flap ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Some Observations after Two Years of Building
Date: Nov 17, 2006
From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
Excellent post Jeff. After 2.75 yrs and 2000 hrs of slow build, I can endorse everything you have said. I too have suffered significant elbow pain through repetetive tasks and posted to the list on this some time ago. Got nil response, so I thought it was just me getting old and soft. Just worked through it. I'm well into the finshing stages now, and find that the old elbows are much healthier now the edge and hole deburring (I think that's what caused me most strain) are finished. Lurkers should be aware that building is an enormous challenge and great fun - I would definitley do it all again in an instant and will likley build another RV in the future. But there are some hazards. Crook elbows, the odd hole bored into unsuspecting fingers (and knuckles), pinching skin in the pneumatic squeezer, exposure to alodine, toluene, isocyanates, epoxies, fiberglass dust, flying debris from grinding, aluminium dust, sharp edges (esp firewall!!). . . all makes the build process that much more exciting! I think it was Rick Sked who said to call it quits for the night when you first draw blood :-D As pilots, I am sure we are all very safety conscious, and take every precaution during the build process. Unfortunately, s^&t happens, and you can't plan for allergic reactions and debiltating conditions like RSI. Not intending to turn anyone off at all - but the last thing we need is to lose our medicals because of building misphaps. build safe, fly safe Ron 187 finishing -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter Sent: Friday, 17 November 2006 8:52 AM Subject: RV10-List: Some Observations after Two Years of Building Today marks the two year anniversary of the arrival of my tail kit and it seems a good time to post some observations I've made over the course of those 730 days: I've put in 905 hours... an average of 1.74 per day, 5 days per week. Not quite the 2 hours per day that I had planned. As others have pointed out on this list from time to time, things happen over during a project like this. Life changes, and if you're going to finish, you will likely have to change your expectations from time to time and keep forging ahead in any way you can. In my case, it was severe Tennis Elbow in both arms (the result of a four hour riveting session with my pneumatic squeezer) that cost me the better part of three months of work and about $1,000 in physical therapy. The DRDT-2 is a must, and with it you should dimple "missionary" style. I spent a long time dragging skins over the male dimple die... hunting around for the hole (all puns here are intended)... before I realized how easy it was to dimple skins from the top down. Time spent setting up is time saved working. Measure three times. Cut once. Find a comfortable position to stand in before pulling the trigger on the rivet gun. That will save your skins as well as your back. Some riveting simply can't be done alone If you feel as if you are about to make a mistake, you're probably right. Read the plans again... and again... and again... until what you are doing becomes clear. And, remember, it's the left side that's pictured in the plans. If you're tired, don't work. If it hurts, stop. Vary your work. Don't just countersink for hours on end... or rivet or deburr or even dimple. Repetitive tasks will take their toll over time ( I have the elbows to prove it) Finally, there are no "stupid" questions. None of us learn or understand things in the same way and what might be obvious to one person is anything but that to another. For me, it took an embarrassing amount of time to really understand why we deburr. I did it, dutifully, but it wasn't until I was well into the wing that I got the mental picture of a sharp edged rib flange cutting into a skin as the plane vibrated under power. I think we need to make a better effort on this list to avoid jumping all over someone for asking a question (even a priming question) just because the answer is obvious to some of us. I have a sense that there are many "lurkers" out there afraid to address the list for fear that they will appear less smart or less sophisticated or just flat out stupid. If we want a safe fleet of RV-10's flying in the future, then we have to indulge even the most basic questions and we have to remember that new people coming on to the list have to go through the same discovery process as those who started it. Hats off to Tim Olson for his contributions, but even more so for his tone. I think it's an example we should all follow. Jeff Carpenter 40304 Elbow braces securely fastened Riveting the right flap ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Some Observations after Two Years of Building
Date: Nov 16, 2006
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
I'm beginning to think we need a support group for Riveting Elbow! I too suffered this affliction but I'm too stubborn (or is that stupid) to stop working. I originally got it 15 years ago from playing Racquetball anyway. Oh well. My little 6 month break due to my move is letting it heal up finally. I guess some good advice out of this is to wear a tennis elbow brace right from the beginning. Michael Sausen -10 #352 Fuselage ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron Sent: Thursday, November 16, 2006 5:07 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Some Observations after Two Years of Building Excellent post Jeff. After 2.75 yrs and 2000 hrs of slow build, I can endorse everything you have said. I too have suffered significant elbow pain through repetetive tasks and posted to the list on this some time ago. Got nil response, so I thought it was just me getting old and soft. Just worked through it. I'm well into the finshing stages now, and find that the old elbows are much healthier now the edge and hole deburring (I think that's what caused me most strain) are finished. Lurkers should be aware that building is an enormous challenge and great fun - I would definitley do it all again in an instant and will likley build another RV in the future. But there are some hazards. Crook elbows, the odd hole bored into unsuspecting fingers (and knuckles), pinching skin in the pneumatic squeezer, exposure to alodine, toluene, isocyanates, epoxies, fiberglass dust, flying debris from grinding, aluminium dust, sharp edges (esp firewall!!). . . all makes the build process that much more exciting! I think it was Rick Sked who said to call it quits for the night when you first draw blood :-D As pilots, I am sure we are all very safety conscious, and take every precaution during the build process. Unfortunately, s^&t happens, and you can't plan for allergic reactions and debiltating conditions like RSI. Not intending to turn anyone off at all - but the last thing we need is to lose our medicals because of building misphaps. build safe, fly safe Ron 187 finishing -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter Sent: Friday, 17 November 2006 8:52 AM Subject: RV10-List: Some Observations after Two Years of Building Today marks the two year anniversary of the arrival of my tail kit and it seems a good time to post some observations I've made over the course of those 730 days: I've put in 905 hours... an average of 1.74 per day, 5 days per week. Not quite the 2 hours per day that I had planned. As others have pointed out on this list from time to time, things happen over during a project like this. Life changes, and if you're going to finish, you will likely have to change your expectations from time to time and keep forging ahead in any way you can. In my case, it was severe Tennis Elbow in both arms (the result of a four hour riveting session with my pneumatic squeezer) that cost me the better part of three months of work and about $1,000 in physical therapy. The DRDT-2 is a must, and with it you should dimple "missionary" style. I spent a long time dragging skins over the male dimple die... hunting around for the hole (all puns here are intended)... before I realized how easy it was to dimple skins from the top down. Time spent setting up is time saved working. Measure three times. Cut once. Find a comfortable position to stand in before pulling the trigger on the rivet gun. That will save your skins as well as your back. Some riveting simply can't be done alone If you feel as if you are about to make a mistake, you're probably right. Read the plans again... and again... and again... until what you are doing becomes clear. And, remember, it's the left side that's pictured in the plans. If you're tired, don't work. If it hurts, stop. Vary your work. Don't just countersink for hours on end... or rivet or deburr or even dimple. Repetitive tasks will take their toll over time ( I have the elbows to prove it) Finally, there are no "stupid" questions. None of us learn or understand things in the same way and what might be obvious to one person is anything but that to another. For me, it took an embarrassing amount of time to really understand why we deburr. I did it, dutifully, but it wasn't until I was well into the wing that I got the mental picture of a sharp edged rib flange cutting into a skin as the plane vibrated under power. I think we need to make a better effort on this list to avoid jumping all over someone for asking a question (even a priming question) just because the answer is obvious to some of us. I have a sense that there are many "lurkers" out there afraid to address the list for fear that they will appear less smart or less sophisticated or just flat out stupid. If we want a safe fleet of RV-10's flying in the future, then we have to indulge even the most basic questions and we have to remember that new people coming on to the list have to go through the same discovery process as those who started it. Hats off to Tim Olson for his contributions, but even more so for his tone. I think it's an example we should all follow. Jeff Carpenter 40304 Elbow braces securely fastened Riveting the right flap ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <mgeans(at)provide.net>
Subject: Re: Some Observations after Two Years of Building
Date: Nov 16, 2006
Jeff Carpenter wrote: "I have a sense that there are many "lurkers" out there afraid to address the list for fear that they will appear less smart or less sophisticated or just flat out stupid." Well.....Not this one!!! Type! - Type! - Type! - Lurk! - Lurk! - Lurk! Hey! Look! I have no empenage in my garage! I have no money in the bank yet! I have time to Type! Type! Type! :-P "They're comeing to take me away! HOO HOO :-O HA HA :-) They're taking me away to the RV farm!!!" (the preceeding message was intended for notions of humor and silliness and in no way should be mistaken as sarcasim. Mr. Carpenter's well written piece on correct ergonomic control of one's extremities should serve us all a good notion to utilize good planning during our build and use correct working heights for one's personal altitude that one climbs and maintains throughout each day. It would also be good to add the common sense of using our PPE (personal protective equipment) when in our shop. No elbows were harmed in the makeing of this e-mail.) John, Thank you for your update on your 2 year progress. It is a good milestone to be able to look at your progress. Its more than I can say for my progress. Let those who have not be happy for those who do! Congradulations John! Matt Geans, Builder Wanna-be Jeff Carpenter wrote: > > > Today marks the two year anniversary of the arrival of my > tail kit and it seems a good time to post some > observations I've made over the course of those 730 > days: > > I've put in 905 hours... an average of 1.74 per day, 5 > days per week. Not quite the 2 hours per day that I had > planned. As others have pointed out on this list from > time to time, things happen over during a project like > this. Life changes, and if you're going to finish, you > will likely have to change your expectations from time to > time and keep forging ahead in any way you can. In my > case, it was severe Tennis Elbow in both arms (the > result of a four hour riveting session with my pneumatic > squeezer) that cost me the better part of three months > of work and about $1,000 in physical therapy. > > The DRDT-2 is a must, and with it you should dimple > "missionary" style. I spent a long time dragging skins > over the male dimple die... hunting around for the hole > (all puns here are intended)... before I realized how > easy it was to dimple skins from the top down. > > Time spent setting up is time saved working. > > Measure three times. Cut once. > > Find a comfortable position to stand in before pulling > the trigger on the rivet gun. That will save your skins > as well as your back. > > Some riveting simply can't be done alone > > If you feel as if you are about to make a mistake, you're > probably right. Read the plans again... and again... > and again... until what you are doing becomes clear. > And, remember, it's the left side that's pictured in > the plans. > > If you're tired, don't work. > > If it hurts, stop. > > Vary your work. Don't just countersink for hours on > end... or rivet or deburr or even dimple. Repetitive > tasks will take their toll over time ( I have the elbows > to prove it) > > Finally, there are no "stupid" questions. None of us > learn or understand things in the same way and what > might be obvious to one person is anything but that to > another. For me, it took an embarrassing amount of time > to really understand why we deburr. I did it, > dutifully, but it wasn't until I was well into the wing > that I got the mental picture of a sharp edged rib > flange cutting into a skin as the plane vibrated under > power. I think we need to make a better effort on this > list to avoid jumping all over someone for asking a > question (even a priming question) just because the > answer is obvious to some of us. I have a sense that > there are many "lurkers" out there afraid to address the > list for fear that they will appear less smart or less > sophisticated or just flat out stupid. If we want a > safe fleet of RV-10's flying in the future, then we have > to indulge even the most basic questions and we have to > remember that new people coming on to the list have to > go through the same discovery process as those who > started it. Hats off to Tim Olson for his > contributions, but even more so for his tone. I think > it's an example we should all follow. > > Jeff Carpenter > 40304 > Elbow braces securely fastened > Riveting the right flap > > > > > > > > Admin. > > page, > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: List Value...
If you look forward to checking your List email everyday (and a lot of you have written to say that you do!), then you're probably getting at least 0 or 0 worth of Entertainment from the Lists each year. You'd pay twice that for a subscription to some lame magazine or even a dinner out. Isn't the List worth at least that much to you? Wouldn't it be great if you could pay that same amount and get a well-managed media source free of advertising, SPAM, and viruses? Come to think of it, you do... Won't you please take a minute to make your Contribution today and support YOUR Lists? Contribution Page: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Again, I want to say THANK YOU to everyone that has made a Contribution thus far during this year's List Fund Raiser!! These Lists are made possible exclusively through YOUR generosity!! Thank you for your support! Matt Dralle Email List Admin. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com>
Date: Nov 17, 2006
Subject: Re: glassing rivets into glass
David, How would you strengthen the hard points and what size CS SS washer ar e you using IF you just go with Vans standard belts? These CS SS washer s available at ACS or other places? Anyone else improved the hardpoints on their top or is this an issue of overkill? Thanks, DEAN 40449 ________________________________________________________________________

David,

  How would you strengthen the hard points and what size CS SS w asher are you using IF you just go with Vans standard belts?  These CS SS washers available at ACS or other places?

Anyone else improved the hardpoints on their top or is this an issue of overkill?

Thanks,

DEAN 40449



______________________ __________________________________________________
Visit http://www.juno.com/value to sign up today!

      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Boone" <david555(at)cox.net>
Subject: Lightspeed EI
Date: Nov 17, 2006
Has anyone heard of any failures of the twin Lightspeed Electronic Ignition. Thanks David O Boone ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: glassing rivets into glass
Date: Nov 17, 2006
you can see the pictures of our process on www.inertialbelts.com under airframe prep. In short we are spreading the load over a much larger area and we added additional layers of E-glass and tied all hardpoints together with structural glass mat. we are using http://aircraft-spruce.com/catalog/hapages/stainlesswashers.php. I looked at www.mcmaster.com #98466A030 and found one for a #5 screw; however the picture does not look the same as the Spruce stuff. ----- Original Message ----- From: ddddsp1(at)juno.com To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, November 17, 2006 5:31 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: glassing rivets into glass David, How would you strengthen the hard points and what size CS SS washer are you using IF you just go with Vans standard belts? These CS SS washers available at ACS or other places? Anyone else improved the hardpoints on their top or is this an issue of overkill? Thanks, DEAN 40449 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 2006
From: "Mike Lauritsen - Work" <mike(at)cleavelandtool.com>
Subject: Strobe Units and Cleaveland Tool Clearance
In an effort to clean house and find good homes for discontinued items I have added some strobe kits to ebay. These will be an outstanding buy for those that need strobe kits. I will be adding a few more Aeroflash items throughout the day and will be putting some other scratched or discontinued items up for auction as well over the next several days. As soon as possible I will be offering all of the extra parts from my IO-540-C4B5 overhaul, many are in very good condition but I replaced to get "within new limits". Follow the link to: http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZclevtool and check back next week to see what has been added. Please feel free to post this on other lists or boards that you subscribe to. Thanks, Mike -- Mike Lauritsen Cleaveland Aircraft Tool 515-432-6794 www.cleavelandtool.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 2006
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Primer Wars - Redux
Hi All At the risk of killing a sacred cow, I thought I might add a bit more to my previous posts regarding primers. I have been using Sherwin Williams DTM Wash Primer which is a fairly non toxic water based acrylic primer. It goes on with a spray gun (no surprise there) and cleans up with water. It does not use any of the interesting toxins found in GBP and the like so there is little change of growing a third eye after prolonged use. Over the past few days, I have found that it is quite scratch resistant even when repeatedly handling parts. Thus far, I can see no reason to switch to another product especially if it is more toxic and/or is more expensive. The other nice thing about this product is that it dries very quickly - well under two hours. The chap who provided building guidance over the past couple of days, and who has been using a two part epoxy primer, is considering a switch. Just a thought for others on the journey.. Les Kearney RV10 # 40643 - Vertical Stab ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 2006
From: Niko <owl40188(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Aeroquip Fuel Hoses / Andair Valve
I am installing the Andair valve instead of the standard one Vans provides. I moved the mounting bracket about 1 or 2 inches down and got a straight extension for the Andair valve and the 90 fittings that Andair sells. So f ar it looks like it will work well . I would like to replace the aluminum tube fuel line with the Aeroquip stuff. It appears that Vans and Aircaft S pruce sell the Aeroquip 701 hose. I am wondering if this is the proper hos e to use. I know Tim used the performance racing hoses also with a steel b raid and it appears to be about half the price of the 701 stuff. The racin g angled fittings appear to be a lot less expensive also. Any thoughts on this?=0A=0Athanks=0A=0ANiko ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Some Observations after Two Years of Building
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Nov 17, 2006
Rick S. wrote: > Never give in, never surrender... > > Galaxy Quest!!! I don't believe the elbow problems come from riveting. I have developed it in both elbows. I figured out that it was the cleco pliers. I sprang for a pneumatic cleco gun and it has already helped a lot. Here's a test: put a cleco in the pliers, squeeze it, and hold. You'll feel it. [Idea] -------- #40572 Empennage - starting Elevators! N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=75324#75324 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Aeroquip Fuel Hoses / Andair Valve
From: "AndrewTR30" <AndrewTR30(at)aol.com>
Date: Nov 17, 2006
Niko, I had teflon lined hoses made for me with Earls Racing components. I put some red heat shrink tubing put over them for a little extra protection. If I remember correctly they are 37 1/2" I decided not to use them and ended up using the aluminum tubing. If you are interested in them, I can send you some pictures. They might suit your application really well. Feel free to contact me off the list. Andrewtr30 (at) yahoo (dot) com -------- Andrew Rayhill RV-10 40078 Phoenix Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=75331#75331 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Aeroquip Fuel Hoses / Andair Valve
From: "AndrewTR30" <AndrewTR30(at)aol.com>
Date: Nov 17, 2006
Tim, Yes my hoses are carbon lined for static dissipation. they are -6 size. Here's a link: http://www.holley.com/620002ERL.asp The fittings are Earls Swivel-seal. http://www.holley.com/types/Swivel-Seal.asp I could not find a good source locally, So I ordered them from: http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/ My Andair valve is mounted high in the tunnel, actually above the standard Vans location and didn't like the bend coming throught the tunnel, so that's why I switched back to the aluminum. -------- Andrew Rayhill RV-10 40078 Phoenix Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=75349#75349 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: riveting the lid
Date: Nov 17, 2006
Sometime back there was a suggestion to replace the blinds in the lid with the A rivets and hit lightly with the rivet gun. I checked with the head of one of the aerospace engineering companies for advice. He suggested that this would not be satisfactory for the following reasons. (1) the A rivet is not a structural rivet and (2) the pounding the fiberglass (even if lightly) with the gun and the expansion of the solid rivet in the hole will create fractures of the glass at the micro level and weaken the structure. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 2006
From: SamMarlow <sam.marlow(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Screw up my spar
I think I screwed up my spar. When I was drilling the rear angle of incidence hole, the 3/8 AN6 bolt hole, I let my hand wander a bit off center. Guess what, now the hole is to big for an AN6 bolt. I talked to Ken K at van's, and he said I could use one step oversize, or one sixty fourth of an inch larger bolt. The problem is, I 'm having trouble locating a NAS6660-4x bolt. Can someone point me in the right direction! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Screw up my spar
Date: Nov 17, 2006
The general rule is that, provided there is sufficient edge distance, any bolt can be upsized one size. Since the plan is a #6 you should be able to use a #7 there. 7/16" should not be hard to find. I would get a 7/16" ream (preferably tapered) and some help and some good clamps before drilling again. That said if you can find an oversize #6 use it but by all means buy or borrow the ream to make the hole whole. Final size should always be reamed. An AN7-11 is about a buck at Spruce. ----- Original Message ----- From: SamMarlow To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, November 17, 2006 7:17 PM Subject: RV10-List: Screw up my spar I think I screwed up my spar. When I was drilling the rear angle of incidence hole, the 3/8 AN6 bolt hole, I let my hand wander a bit off center. Guess what, now the hole is to big for an AN6 bolt. I talked to Ken K at van's, and he said I could use one step oversize, or one sixty fourth of an inch larger bolt. The problem is, I 'm having trouble locating a NAS6660-4x bolt. Can someone point me in the right direction! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Screw up my spar
Date: Nov 17, 2006
One other possibility is a metric 10 which should be about .394 but of course you will need the appropriate ream ----- Original Message ----- From: SamMarlow To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, November 17, 2006 7:17 PM Subject: RV10-List: Screw up my spar I think I screwed up my spar. When I was drilling the rear angle of incidence hole, the 3/8 AN6 bolt hole, I let my hand wander a bit off center. Guess what, now the hole is to big for an AN6 bolt. I talked to Ken K at van's, and he said I could use one step oversize, or one sixty fourth of an inch larger bolt. The problem is, I 'm having trouble locating a NAS6660-4x bolt. Can someone point me in the right direction! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Screw up my spar
Date: Nov 17, 2006
www.mcmaster.com (part 95430A387) has a M10 (class10.9) bolt that is 150000 psi tensile strength compared to the AN spec for the 125000 psi tensile strength. check http://www.allmetalcorp.com/htm/pg902_04.htm ----- Original Message ----- From: SamMarlow To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, November 17, 2006 7:17 PM Subject: RV10-List: Screw up my spar I think I screwed up my spar. When I was drilling the rear angle of incidence hole, the 3/8 AN6 bolt hole, I let my hand wander a bit off center. Guess what, now the hole is to big for an AN6 bolt. I talked to Ken K at van's, and he said I could use one step oversize, or one sixty fourth of an inch larger bolt. The problem is, I 'm having trouble locating a NAS6660-4x bolt. Can someone point me in the right direction! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 2006
From: Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: backup fuel pump question
While shooting the breeze recently with a 17000+ hour pilot I commented that my fuel pump had just arrived. He said, "Just one? Where's the backup pump going to go?". I then realized that I had never thought about it before, but there only a single pump in the tunnel. Is there another "backup" pump that maybe mounts directly on the engine (e.g. io540)? What have others done here? Thanks in advance, Jay - Rivet purgatory on fuse skins ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: backup fuel pump question
Date: Nov 18, 2006
the primary pump is the engine driven fuel pump on the IO540 designed to go to TBO. If it fails, the tunnel electric is the backup; it is also used for priming to start. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jay Brinkmeyer" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2006 11:25 AM Subject: RV10-List: backup fuel pump question > > While shooting the breeze recently with a 17000+ hour pilot I commented > that my > fuel pump had just arrived. He said, "Just one? Where's the backup pump > going > to go?". I then realized that I had never thought about it before, but > there > only a single pump in the tunnel. Is there another "backup" pump that > maybe > mounts directly on the engine (e.g. io540)? What have others done here? > > Thanks in advance, > Jay > - Rivet purgatory on fuse skins > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Seat belts attach points - am I confused?
Date: Nov 18, 2006
Inadequate? probably only in a crash. Before starting to reinforce the existing hardpoints, we asked two questions: What do we need to attach the inertial belts/airbags? Is the existing hardware and hard point adequate? Although my background/degree is mathematics and computers and I have an A&P, I did need feel that these were sufficient to answer the questions? Fortunately I have a neighbor couple who hold Mechanical Engineering and Electrical Engineering PhDs who provide free advice. In addition my building partner has access to engineers who use composites and sheet metal to build military aviation hardware. Both sources indicated that a single 5/16" CS screw would pull right through the glass in any significant crash. It is standard procedure in composite construction to spread the load of the metal fastener over as large an area as possible. If you decide to go with the existing hard points, I suggest you make a large washer out of .020 stainless and dimple it for the 5/16" screw, this will spread the load from the screw (area = PI radius(.025) squared ) to the washer diameter ( PI radius (.5) squared). Check the calculations and find that the load is spread over about 6 times the area. We elected to spread the load by using multiple fasteners each with its own stainless CS washer and reinforce the whole area with additional E-glass . The aluminum plate inside is the strongest aluminum alloy 7075 or 2024. We use the aluminum to attach the belt roller brackets. My engineering friends said that the weak point would still be the composite. We then used a structural mat to tie all the hardpoints together. I am sure that Vans believes that the hardpoints are sufficiently strong but this is there first use of structural composites. Except for cowl I don't know of another structural component that they use on their aircraft. The change of the hardpoints were not done on a whim or without consultation from those who should know. Just my $.02. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jdalton77" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Trim cables question
Date: Nov 18, 2006
So, after cursing and struggling with the Trim control cables I finally got them all routed and hooked up. Now the manual tells me to disassemble the HS/Tailcone/VS. Do I have to pull out the cables I routed or did any of you disconnect them at the trim motor? Jeff Dalton ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rob Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Trim cables question
Date: Nov 18, 2006
After all of my struggling to connect them I left them connected for at least two days so I cold take pictures, but then yes, I disconnected them from the elevators. Left them attached to the trim motor/mount. Rob Wright #392 Fuse Floor Pans _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jdalton77 Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2006 9:28 PM Subject: RV10-List: Trim cables question So, after cursing and struggling with the Trim control cables I finally got them all routed and hooked up. Now the manual tells me to disassemble the HS/Tailcone/VS. Do I have to pull out the cables I routed or did any of you disconnect them at the trim motor? Jeff Dalton ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: backup fuel pump question
Date: Nov 19, 2006
Hi, The pump in the tunnel is actually your back up pump. The lycoming has a mechanical fitted on the rear housing which does all the pumping under normal operation. The best about this system is that you have to "check" your back up pump to prime the system. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jay Brinkmeyer" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2006 6:25 PM Subject: RV10-List: backup fuel pump question > > While shooting the breeze recently with a 17000+ hour pilot I commented > that my > fuel pump had just arrived. He said, "Just one? Where's the backup pump > going > to go?". I then realized that I had never thought about it before, but > there > only a single pump in the tunnel. Is there another "backup" pump that > maybe > mounts directly on the engine (e.g. io540)? What have others done here? > > Thanks in advance, > Jay > - Rivet purgatory on fuse skins > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Trim cables question
From: "egohr1" <EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu>
Date: Nov 19, 2006
Yes, I disconnected them, but before you pull them though tape a piece of heavy wall tygon tubing to the end of the tube. Leave the tube in the HS as a fish line. When you go to reinstall the tube the tubing will make the reinstllation mech easier. -------- eric gohr EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=75576#75576 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net>
Subject: Re: Trim cables question
Date: Nov 19, 2006
Jeff, I think there are disadvantages at both ends. I did mine at the trim tabs end. There's not much room at the trim motor end to secure the cables. If you have big arms to stick them through that little bulkhead, you'd have to crawl inside the tailcone to secure the cables at the trim motor. Before you install the rudder for the last time though there are four nutplates required on the VS spar to secure the emp fairing. Make sure those are installed or you'd have to take the rudder off one more time to rivet the nutplates, or use screw/nut later. Anh #141 ----- Original Message ----- From: jdalton77 To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2006 10:28 PM Subject: RV10-List: Trim cables question So, after cursing and struggling with the Trim control cables I finally got them all routed and hooked up. Now the manual tells me to disassemble the HS/Tailcone/VS. Do I have to pull out the cables I routed or did any of you disconnect them at the trim motor? Jeff Dalton ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: FW: [LML] Re: Insurance Training
Date: Nov 19, 2006
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
To Rick Sked, Bob and those thinking about Insurance alternatives. Here is a historical perspective on the value of a controlled pool of insured's and the value of regular annual High Performance Training beyond the token ten hours of initial Transition Training. Don't read this wrong, Mike Seager does a great job with Transition. Annual HP training includes looking at every accident, each cause, critical flight maneuvers and demonstrating mastery of the skills needed to avoid the outcome. This was the solution to the Effect and the Cause was a lot of motivated builders, lacking adequate skills flying beyond their ability in High Performance Aircraft. This is now the norm with Cirrus, Columbia and Lancair. The FAA is following the trend on frequency of loss and correlation to training. The potential is there for everyone at about the time you are 90% complete. ________________________________ From: Lancair Mailing List [mailto:lml(at)lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of VTAILJEFF(at)aol.com Sent: Sunday, November 19, 2006 8:17 AM Subject: [LML] Re: Insurance Pilot: ATP, CFII, 7000+ TT, 800+ time in type Lancair IVP initial and annual recurrent factory training Aircraft: LIVP TSIO 550, factory inspection program Insurance: $400,000 hull ($100,000 per seat) Falcon broker with AIG underwriter Premium: 2006 : $7,713 2005 : $7,513 Policy Premium before Lancair Insurance Program: 2004 : $12,875 (Global) Thanks Joe B. -- I owe you a lot of beers! Jeff ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 19, 2006
From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Gretz GA-1000 Wiring
Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the Gretz Aero GA-1000 heated pitot tube they would share with me? Larry Rosen larryrosen(at)comcast.net #356 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 19, 2006
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV-10 PAPSP (Pilot & Aircraft Proficiency & Safety Program)
I'd like to float an idea to the group with the community zeroing in on 700 builders, and that is: Why don't we organize an RV-10 Pilot & Aircraft Proficiency Safety Program - PAPSP- ? I believe that several of the certificated type's have similar programs ( I know that Bonanza's/Barons do) so there are models out there that can be adopted/examined. With the strength of the building community evidenced on this list, and some prior posts aimed at organizing -10 type flyins. Why couldn't we combine those objectives? Loosely speaking the idea would be to periodically (annually initially?) meet at a fly-in (what about Doug Reeves Land Of Enchantment?). In between the hangar talk and comeraderie. there could be a pilot skills clinic established to talk specifically to -10 issues, as well as an aircraft safety/performance clinic (might even couple it with a formation flying clinic) . The clinics could be classroom based, cockpit/airframe based, or both. A ciriculum/s would have to be developed, guidelines established, volunteerism would have to be significant, but the benefits in Insurance, Safety, and potential performance improvements could be enormous, a 'self-regulating' group would likely draw the favor of insurance companies and underwriters. It also could just be a "Lot of Fun" (and could redirect some of the energy that goes into the building process into the 'flying' process and potentially delay the starting of another project to satisfy the 'need') Anyway just an idea, Anybody listening? Deems Davis # 406 Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/ John W. Cox wrote: > To Rick Sked, Bob and those thinking about Insurance alternatives. > Here is a historical perspective on the value of a controlled pool of > insureds and the value of regular annual High Performance Training > beyond the token ten hours of initial Transition Training. Dont read > this wrong, Mike Seager does a great job with Transition. Annual HP > training includes looking at every accident, each cause, critical > flight maneuvers and demonstrating mastery of the skills needed to > avoid the outcome. > > This was the solution to the Effect and the Cause was a lot of > motivated builders, lacking adequate skills flying beyond their > ability in High Performance Aircraft. This is now the norm with > Cirrus, Columbia and Lancair. The FAA is following the trend on > frequency of loss and correlation to training. The potential is there > for everyone at about the time you are 90% complete. > >* >* > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV-10 PAPSP (Pilot & Aircraft Proficiency & Safety Program)
Date: Nov 19, 2006
Great idea Deems, I think combining it with other seminars, or should I say learning experiences would be a good idea. I agree and can think of some other half hour to hour fillers. How about into to electrics, into to fiberglass, boo boo repair along with the proficiency safety Program. I can see some day it evolving to RV-10 instrument reviews/refreshers with the new glass, or guess what I found works this way along with the physical proficiency part of the weekend. I love the challenge of flying formations, and the need is great for training in safe ways to fly formation, safe ways to rejoin or join up, and pre-briefing on what the expected flight will be. At work we spend more time planning each flight and de-briefing each flight than we ever do flying unless we are doing an across the pond, tanking scenario. I like the LOE site because of the people there and the attitude of the people. Not sure of the weather, but that's all part of the territory. Self insurance wise, we have gotten some good response and I will try to get all those that replied on a monthly mailing list to keep you appraised of the self-insurance hobbs meter. Again, we are taking names of people that are interested in being in a self insurance program to reduce the cost. For those who haven't expressed interest you can be going to www.aircraftmutual.com and filling out an interest form. We need 1000 people to become involved or to show interest and we are not even close yet. That by the way was a shameless plug, and now I'll go back to putting in the Duckworks HIDs. Bob K 90/92 Falling behind because of the dreaded thing called work. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Sunday, November 19, 2006 3:54 PM Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 PAPSP (Pilot & Aircraft Proficiency & Safety Program) I'd like to float an idea to the group with the community zeroing in on 700 builders, and that is: Why don't we organize an RV-10 Pilot & Aircraft Proficiency Safety Program - PAPSP- ? I believe that several of the certificated type's have similar programs ( I know that Bonanza's/Barons do) so there are models out there that can be adopted/examined. With the strength of the building community evidenced on this list, and some prior posts aimed at organizing -10 type flyins. Why couldn't we combine those objectives? Loosely speaking the idea would be to periodically (annually initially?) meet at a fly-in (what about Doug Reeves Land Of Enchantment?). In between the hangar talk and comeraderie. there could be a pilot skills clinic established to talk specifically to -10 issues, as well as an aircraft safety/performance clinic (might even couple it with a formation flying clinic) . The clinics could be classroom based, cockpit/airframe based, or both. A ciriculum/s would have to be developed, guidelines established, volunteerism would have to be significant, but the benefits in Insurance, Safety, and potential performance improvements could be enormous, a 'self-regulating' group would likely draw the favor of insurance companies and underwriters. It also could just be a "Lot of Fun" (and could redirect some of the energy that goes into the building process into the 'flying' process and potentially delay the starting of another project to satisfy the 'need') Anyway just an idea, Anybody listening? Deems Davis # 406 Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/ John W. Cox wrote: > To Rick Sked, Bob and those thinking about Insurance alternatives. > Here is a historical perspective on the value of a controlled pool of > insured's and the value of regular annual High Performance Training > beyond the token ten hours of initial Transition Training. Don't read > this wrong, Mike Seager does a great job with Transition. Annual HP > training includes looking at every accident, each cause, critical > flight maneuvers and demonstrating mastery of the skills needed to > avoid the outcome. > > This was the solution to the Effect and the Cause was a lot of > motivated builders, lacking adequate skills flying beyond their > ability in High Performance Aircraft. This is now the norm with > Cirrus, Columbia and Lancair. The FAA is following the trend on > frequency of loss and correlation to training. The potential is there > for everyone at about the time you are 90% complete. > >* >* > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jdalton77" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-10 PAPSP (Pilot & Aircraft Proficiency & Safety Program)
Date: Nov 19, 2006
Deems, Great idea. I would participate in creating/attending something like this. Jeff Dalton Finished Emp Kit. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> Sent: Sunday, November 19, 2006 6:54 PM Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 PAPSP (Pilot & Aircraft Proficiency & Safety Program) > > I'd like to float an idea to the group with the community zeroing in on > 700 builders, and that is: Why don't we organize an RV-10 Pilot & Aircraft > Proficiency Safety Program - PAPSP- ? I believe that several of the > certificated type's have similar programs ( I know that Bonanza's/Barons > do) so there are models out there that can be adopted/examined. With the > strength of the building community evidenced on this list, and some prior > posts aimed at organizing -10 type flyins. Why couldn't we combine those > objectives? Loosely speaking the idea would be to periodically (annually > initially?) meet at a fly-in (what about Doug Reeves Land Of > Enchantment?). In between the hangar talk and comeraderie. there could be > a pilot skills clinic established to talk specifically to -10 issues, as > well as an aircraft safety/performance clinic (might even couple it with a > formation flying clinic) . The clinics could be classroom based, > cockpit/airframe based, or both. A ciriculum/s would have to be developed, > guidelines established, volunteerism would have to be significant, but the > benefits in Insurance, Safety, and potential performance improvements > could be enormous, a 'self-regulating' group would likely draw the favor > of insurance companies and underwriters. It also could just be a "Lot of > Fun" (and could redirect some of the energy that goes into the building > process into the 'flying' process and potentially delay the starting of > another project to satisfy the 'need') > > Anyway just an idea, > > Anybody listening? > > Deems Davis # 406 > Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) > http://deemsrv10.com/ > > John W. Cox wrote: > >> To Rick Sked, Bob and those thinking about Insurance alternatives. Here >> is a historical perspective on the value of a controlled pool of insureds >> and the value of regular annual High Performance Training beyond the >> token ten hours of initial Transition Training. Dont read this wrong, >> Mike Seager does a great job with Transition. Annual HP training includes >> looking at every accident, each cause, critical flight maneuvers and >> demonstrating mastery of the skills needed to avoid the outcome. >> >> This was the solution to the Effect and the Cause was a lot of motivated >> builders, lacking adequate skills flying beyond their ability in High >> Performance Aircraft. This is now the norm with Cirrus, Columbia and >> Lancair. The FAA is following the trend on frequency of loss and >> correlation to training. The potential is there for everyone at about the >> time you are 90% complete. >> >>* >>* >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV-10 PAPSP (Pilot & Aircraft Proficiency & Safety Program)
Date: Nov 19, 2006
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Deems - I am listening. Willing to advance the idea too. Like LOE, since most won't come west to VANS in September. Tim's timing this year seemed right on. DEN might prove doable for those flying on Air Carriers. It kind of needs to be near the tail of the summer flying schedule so as not to interfere with fly outs. I'm also partial to Copperstate weekend. Would be happy to lend my Lancair HPATs syllabus to the mix. John Cox -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Sunday, November 19, 2006 3:54 PM Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 PAPSP (Pilot & Aircraft Proficiency & Safety Program) I'd like to float an idea to the group with the community zeroing in on 700 builders, and that is: Why don't we organize an RV-10 Pilot & Aircraft Proficiency Safety Program - PAPSP- ? I believe that several of the certificated type's have similar programs ( I know that Bonanza's/Barons do) so there are models out there that can be adopted/examined. With the strength of the building community evidenced on this list, and some prior posts aimed at organizing -10 type flyins. Why couldn't we combine those objectives? Loosely speaking the idea would be to periodically (annually initially?) meet at a fly-in (what about Doug Reeves Land Of Enchantment?). In between the hangar talk and camaraderie. there could be a pilot skills clinic established to talk specifically to -10 issues, as well as an aircraft safety/performance clinic (might even couple it with a formation flying clinic) . The clinics could be classroom based, cockpit/airframe based, or both. A curriculum/s would have to be developed, guidelines established, volunteerism would have to be significant, but the benefits in Insurance, Safety, and potential performance improvements could be enormous, a 'self-regulating' group would likely draw the favor of insurance companies and underwriters. It also could just be a "Lot of Fun" (and could redirect some of the energy that goes into the building process into the 'flying' process and potentially delay the starting of another project to satisfy the 'need') Anyway just an idea, Anybody listening? Deems Davis # 406 Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/ John W. Cox wrote: > To Rick Sked, Bob and those thinking about Insurance alternatives. > Here is a historical perspective on the value of a controlled pool of > insured's and the value of regular annual High Performance Training > beyond the token ten hours of initial Transition Training. Don't read > this wrong, Mike Seager does a great job with Transition. Annual HP > training includes looking at every accident, each cause, critical > flight maneuvers and demonstrating mastery of the skills needed to > avoid the outcome. > > This was the solution to the Effect and the Cause was a lot of > motivated builders, lacking adequate skills flying beyond their > ability in High Performance Aircraft. This is now the norm with > Cirrus, Columbia and Lancair. The FAA is following the trend on > frequency of loss and correlation to training. The potential is there > for everyone at about the time you are 90% complete. > >* >* > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-10 PAPSP (Pilot & Aircraft Proficiency & Safety Program)
Date: Nov 19, 2006
Ditto on the great idea Deems. There is no limit to what could included in the agendas. There will soon be a large enough flying fleet and resident talent to make this sort of thing valuable and lots of fun. There is already an established protocol for non-warbird, non-aerobatic formation training. Formation Flight Incorporated is lead by Stu McCurdy and his training seminars can lead to issuanace of FAA aurthorization for participation in formation flights in restricted airspace such as S&F and Oshkosh. While it is not everyone's cup of tea, if you get the bug you will enjoy the experience. It is serious business and a rewarding skill to learn. Stu has already done a little work with the 10 in a mixed type formation and there appently will be some visibility issues to deal with. I would assume these could be overcome in an all "10" flight. Vernier type throttles are usually not allowed in a formation flight, as you are moving the throttle too much to make that workable. The twist lock push pull type and lever quadrants are fine. Dick Sipp 40065 N110DV Finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Grimstad" <bldgrv10450(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-10 PAPSP (Pilot & Aircraft Proficiency & Safety Program)
Date: Nov 19, 2006
Deems Count me in. I'll show up even if my 10 is still a bunch of parts. Could the idea expended to include all models of RV builders and owners? Not a copy of the home coming at VAN's but centered around the theme of Pilot & Aircraft Proficiency and Safety Program. The consideration might be that more models in the brand with increased safe flying and maintenance skills could help drive down those premiums, in addition to a larger customer base for providers and underwriters to consider. Brand v/s model? Could sponsors be considered to help organize and fund such an event. Vans, EAA, insurance providers, engine builders, avionics, tools, and specialties. Show displays and offers? I'll be watching this idea grow. Paul Grimstad RV10 40450 fuselage Portland, OR 97219 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> Sent: Sunday, November 19, 2006 3:54 PM Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 PAPSP (Pilot & Aircraft Proficiency & Safety Program) > > I'd like to float an idea to the group with the community zeroing in on > 700 builders, and that is: Why don't we organize an RV-10 Pilot & Aircraft > Proficiency Safety Program - PAPSP- ? I believe that several of the > certificated type's have similar programs ( I know that Bonanza's/Barons > do) so there are models out there that can be adopted/examined. With the > strength of the building community evidenced on this list, and some prior > posts aimed at organizing -10 type flyins. Why couldn't we combine those > objectives? Loosely speaking the idea would be to periodically (annually > initially?) meet at a fly-in (what about Doug Reeves Land Of > Enchantment?). In between the hangar talk and comeraderie. there could be > a pilot skills clinic established to talk specifically to -10 issues, as > well as an aircraft safety/performance clinic (might even couple it with a > formation flying clinic) . The clinics could be classroom based, > cockpit/airframe based, or both. A ciriculum/s would have to be developed, > guidelines established, volunteerism would have to be significant, but the > benefits in Insurance, Safety, and potential performance improvements > could be enormous, a 'self-regulating' group would likely draw the favor > of insurance companies and underwriters. It also could just be a "Lot of > Fun" (and could redirect some of the energy that goes into the building > process into the 'flying' process and potentially delay the starting of > another project to satisfy the 'need') > > Anyway just an idea, > > Anybody listening? > > Deems Davis # 406 > Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) > http://deemsrv10.com/ > > John W. Cox wrote: > >> To Rick Sked, Bob and those thinking about Insurance alternatives. Here >> is a historical perspective on the value of a controlled pool of insureds >> and the value of regular annual High Performance Training beyond the >> token ten hours of initial Transition Training. Dont read this wrong, >> Mike Seager does a great job with Transition. Annual HP training includes >> looking at every accident, each cause, critical flight maneuvers and >> demonstrating mastery of the skills needed to avoid the outcome. >> >> This was the solution to the Effect and the Cause was a lot of motivated >> builders, lacking adequate skills flying beyond their ability in High >> Performance Aircraft. This is now the norm with Cirrus, Columbia and >> Lancair. The FAA is following the trend on frequency of loss and >> correlation to training. The potential is there for everyone at about the >> time you are 90% complete. >> >>* >>* >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV-10 PAPSP (Pilot & Aircraft Proficiency & Safety Program)
Date: Nov 19, 2006
From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com>
I think an idea like this could only help and benefit all involved. I would be honored to participate. When I was in the Navy, I had 11 courses of instruction that I was responsible for, as well in the civilian world I have developed training curriculum, and work in IT helping others. I would be happy to help develop a course of instruction and re-current training for all involved. I will also be working towards and completing a CFII ticket, so we could develop a schedule around it to conduct flight reviews at the same time, kind of a one stop RV10 clinic. By the way did your wife give you the message I left the other day, when you were out traveling around? Dan -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Sunday, November 19, 2006 6:54 PM Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 PAPSP (Pilot & Aircraft Proficiency & Safety Program) I'd like to float an idea to the group with the community zeroing in on 700 builders, and that is: Why don't we organize an RV-10 Pilot & Aircraft Proficiency Safety Program - PAPSP- ? I believe that several of the certificated type's have similar programs ( I know that Bonanza's/Barons do) so there are models out there that can be adopted/examined. With the strength of the building community evidenced on this list, and some prior posts aimed at organizing -10 type flyins. Why couldn't we combine those objectives? Loosely speaking the idea would be to periodically (annually initially?) meet at a fly-in (what about Doug Reeves Land Of Enchantment?). In between the hangar talk and comeraderie. there could be a pilot skills clinic established to talk specifically to -10 issues, as well as an aircraft safety/performance clinic (might even couple it with a formation flying clinic) . The clinics could be classroom based, cockpit/airframe based, or both. A ciriculum/s would have to be developed, guidelines established, volunteerism would have to be significant, but the benefits in Insurance, Safety, and potential performance improvements could be enormous, a 'self-regulating' group would likely draw the favor of insurance companies and underwriters. It also could just be a "Lot of Fun" (and could redirect some of the energy that goes into the building process into the 'flying' process and potentially delay the starting of another project to satisfy the 'need') Anyway just an idea, Anybody listening? Deems Davis # 406 Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/ John W. Cox wrote: > To Rick Sked, Bob and those thinking about Insurance alternatives. > Here is a historical perspective on the value of a controlled pool of > insured's and the value of regular annual High Performance Training > beyond the token ten hours of initial Transition Training. Don't read > this wrong, Mike Seager does a great job with Transition. Annual HP > training includes looking at every accident, each cause, critical > flight maneuvers and demonstrating mastery of the skills needed to > avoid the outcome. > > This was the solution to the Effect and the Cause was a lot of > motivated builders, lacking adequate skills flying beyond their > ability in High Performance Aircraft. This is now the norm with > Cirrus, Columbia and Lancair. The FAA is following the trend on > frequency of loss and correlation to training. The potential is there > for everyone at about the time you are 90% complete. > >* >* > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Why? [Please Read]
Dear Listers, Each year I like to explain why I have a Fund Raiser and also take the opportunity to express why I think the List Services here provide a superior experience over the commercial equivalents. I use the List Fund Raiser each year to offset the costs involved with running a high performance email list site such as this one. With the annual support from the List members through the PBS-like Fund Raiser, I have found I can run the entire site without having to inflect any of the members with those annoying banner ads flashing up all the time trying to sell little-blue-pills or other garbage nobody wants or needs. From the comments I've received over the years regarding the Lists, the great majority of the members really appreciate the non-commercialism of my List systems and don't mind my 'go-team-go' banter once a year during November to encourage members to support the Lists. I believe that the Lists services that I provide here offer many benefits over the commercial equivalents in a number of ways. The first feature I believe to be significant is that you cannot receive a computer v*rus from any of these Lists directly. Each incoming message is filtered and dangerous attachments stripped off prior to posting. I also provide a Photo and File Share feature that allows members to share files and bitmaps with other members and everyone can be assured that these files will be prescanned for any sort of v*rus before they are posted. Safe and simple. Another very important feature of this system in my opinion is the extensive List Archives that are available for download, browsing, and searching. The Archives go all the way back to the very beginning of each List and with the very fast Search Engine, the huge size of some of the Archives is a non-issue in quickly finding the data you're looking for. And added just this year is the new Email List Forum that allows members who prefer the Web BBS-style of List interaction. The beauty of the new List Forums is that they contain the exact same content that is distributed via email. Messages posted via email are cross-posted to the respective Forum and vice versa. The Forums also allow for another convenient method of sharing pictures and other files. Additionally added this year is the new List Wiki that allows members to build their own "Online List Encyclopedia" of sorts, documenting various aspects of their project for all to share. I've been running email Lists and services under the matronics.com domain since about 1989 starting with RV-List and 30 guys I knew and who where also building RVs. It has grown into nearly 70 different aviation-related Email Lists and an associated web site that receives over 23,000,000 hits each year!! Additionally, the List Email system forwarded well over 87,000 postings last year, accounting for an unbelievable 39,000,000 (yes, that's 39 MILLION) email messages delivered to Matronics List subscribers! I think there's a lot of value in supporting a service that has gone the long haul and is still providing and improving a high quality service all _without any advertising budget_! I have to admit running these Lists is a labor of love and I hope it shows in the quality of the experience that you receive when you get a List Email Message, Search the Archives, use the List Browser, or surf the Forums and Wiki sites. The Lists will be here for a long time to come. If you just want to lurk a while for free, that's great and I encourage you to do so. If you use, appreciate, and receive value from these Lists, then please support them during the Annual List Fund Raiser! List Contribution Web Site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2006
From: SamMarlow <sam.marlow(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Re: Why? [Please Read]
Please don't send any more solicitations, I've donated already! Matt Dralle wrote: > > >Dear Listers, > >Each year I like to explain why I have a Fund Raiser and also take the opportunity to express why I think the List Services here provide a superior experience over the commercial equivalents. > >I use the List Fund Raiser each year to offset the costs involved with running a high performance email list site such as this one. With the annual support from the List members through the PBS-like Fund Raiser, I have found I can run the entire site without having to inflect any of the members with those annoying banner ads flashing up all the time trying to sell little-blue-pills or other garbage nobody wants or needs. From the comments I've received over the years regarding the Lists, the great majority of the members really appreciate the non-commercialism of my List systems and don't mind my 'go-team-go' banter once a year during November to encourage members to support the Lists. > >I believe that the Lists services that I provide here offer many benefits over the commercial equivalents in a number of ways. The first feature I believe to be significant is that you cannot receive a computer v*rus from any of these Lists directly. Each incoming message is filtered and dangerous attachments stripped off prior to posting. I also provide a Photo and File Share feature that allows members to share files and bitmaps with other members and everyone can be assured that these files will be prescanned for any sort of v*rus before they are posted. Safe and simple. > >Another very important feature of this system in my opinion is the extensive List Archives that are available for download, browsing, and searching. The Archives go all the way back to the very beginning of each List and with the very fast Search Engine, the huge size of some of the Archives is a non-issue in quickly finding the data you're looking for. > >And added just this year is the new Email List Forum that allows members who prefer the Web BBS-style of List interaction. The beauty of the new List Forums is that they contain the exact same content that is distributed via email. Messages posted via email are cross-posted to the respective Forum and vice versa. The Forums also allow for another convenient method of sharing pictures and other files. Additionally added this year is the new List Wiki that allows members to build their own "Online List Encyclopedia" of sorts, documenting various aspects of their project for all to share. > >I've been running email Lists and services under the matronics.com domain since about 1989 starting with RV-List and 30 guys I knew and who where also building RVs. It has grown into nearly 70 different aviation-related Email Lists and an associated web site that receives over 23,000,000 hits each year!! Additionally, the List Email system forwarded well over 87,000 postings last year, accounting for an unbelievable 39,000,000 (yes, that's 39 MILLION) email messages delivered to Matronics List subscribers! I think there's a lot of value in supporting a service that has gone the long haul and is still providing and improving a high quality service all _without any advertising budget_! > >I have to admit running these Lists is a labor of love and I hope it shows in the quality of the experience that you receive when you get a List Email Message, Search the Archives, use the List Browser, or surf the Forums and Wiki sites. The Lists will be here for a long time to come. If you just want to lurk a while for free, that's great and I encourage you to do so. If you use, appreciate, and receive value from these Lists, then please support them during the Annual List Fund Raiser! > >List Contribution Web Site: > >http://www.matronics.com/contribution > >Thank you, > >Matt Dralle >Matronics Email List Administrator > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
Subject: RV-10 PAPSP (Pilot & Aircraft Proficiency & Safety Program)
Date: Nov 20, 2006
Deems: Pardon me, Deems, but...ARE YOU NUTS! What good would this do? Get these bunch of yahoos together? Crazy, man. Look what might happen... 1. Create further group cohesion and allow people to meet one another. Always dangerous. Democracies have started because of meetings like these. 2. Provide a forum for exchange of ideas. Hell, that could lead to modifications and learning. 3. Give crazed individuals a chance to show off their piloting and other skills, such as spot landings, formation. 4. Force people to sign a document of insurance that would save money and take bread away from agents, who might have children to feed. 5. Drive those among us who haven't finished yet to bars all over town buying drinks for those who have. 6. Allow John Cox a forum. My good gracious! Just the thought of it has me slack jawed! 7. And, at least 4 other things I can't think of that would make it the proscribed list of 10. Important things. Deems, don't do it man. People, like me, who volunteer for such things, have rivets to pound, mightily. John Jessen #40328 (buildus interruptus) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [HYPERLINK "mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com"mailto:owner-rv10-list-serve r@m atronics.com ] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Sunday, November 19, 2006 6:54 PM Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 PAPSP (Pilot & Aircraft Proficiency & Safety Program) I'd like to float an idea to the group with the community zeroing in on 700 builders, and that is: Why don't we organize an RV-10 Pilot & Aircraft Proficiency Safety Program - PAPSP- ? I believe that several of the certificated type's have similar programs ( I know that Bonanza's/Barons do) so there are models out there that can be adopted/examined. With the strength of the building community evidenced on this list, and some prior posts aimed at organizing -10 type flyins. Why couldn't we combine those objectives? Loosely speaking the idea would be to periodically (annually initially?) meet at a fly-in (what about Doug Reeves Land Of Enchantment?). In between the hangar talk and comeraderie. there could be a pilot skills clinic established to talk specifically to -10 issues, as well as an aircraft safety/performance clinic (might even couple it with a formation flying clinic) . The clinics could be classroom based, cockpit/airframe based, or both. A ciriculum/s would have to be developed, guidelines established, volunteerism would have to be significant, but the benefits in Insurance, Safety, and potential performance improvements could be enormous, a 'self-regulating' group would likely draw the favor of insurance companies and underwriters. It also could just be a "Lot of Fun" (and could redirect some of the energy that goes into the building process into the 'flying' process and potentially delay the starting of another project to satisfy the 'need') Anyway just an idea, Anybody listening? Deems Davis # 406 Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) HYPERLINK "http://deemsrv10.com/"http://deemsrv10.com/ http://deemsrv10.com/"http://deemsrv10.com/> John W. Cox wrote: > To Rick Sked, Bob and those thinking about Insurance alternatives. > Here is a historical perspective on the value of a controlled pool of > insured=92s and the value of regular annual High Performance Training > beyond the token ten hours of initial Transition Training. Don=92t read > this wrong, Mike Seager does a great job with Transition. Annual HP > training includes looking at every accident, each cause, critical > flight maneuvers and demonstrating mastery of the skills needed to > avoid the outcome. > > This was the solution to the Effect and the Cause was a lot of > motivated builders, lacking adequate skills flying beyond their > ability in High Performance Aircraft. This is now the norm with > Cirrus, Columbia and Lancair. The FAA is following the trend on > frequency of loss and correlation to training. The potential is there > for everyone at about the time you are 90% complete. > >* >* > "http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribut ion http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribut ion > List Download, "http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Na vig ator?RV10-List http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Na vig ator?RV10-List> -- 11/20/2006 3:04 AM -- 11/20/2006 6:48 AM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2006
From: Scott Gesele <sgesele(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Screw up my spar
> From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Screw up my spar > > www.mcmaster.com (part 95430A387) has a M10 > (class10.9) bolt that is > 150000 psi tensile strength compared to the AN spec > for the 125000 psi > tensile strength. check > http://www.allmetalcorp.com/htm/pg902_04.htm > ----- Original Message ----- > From: SamMarlow > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Friday, November 17, 2006 7:17 PM > Subject: RV10-List: Screw up my spar > > > I think I screwed up my spar. When I was drilling > the rear angle of > incidence hole, the 3/8 AN6 bolt hole, I let my hand > wander a bit off > center. Guess what, now the hole is to big for an > AN6 bolt. I talked to > Ken K at van's, and he said I could use one step > oversize, or one sixty > fourth of an inch larger bolt. The problem is, I 'm > having trouble > locating a NAS6660-4x bolt. Can someone point me in > the right direction! > This is some potentially dangerous advice. Please do not substitute hardware store bolts for aircraft hardware. Your claim that the metric bolt is stronger than the specified AN hardware is not justification to use it. The so called stronger bolt may also be harder. This could result in a shorter fatigue life. AN hardware has rolled threads, most hardware store bolts have cut threads. Rolled threads are less likely to have stress risers at the base of the thread. All hardware should also be traceable. This is a critical joint, use the correct hardware. I would stick with the advice from Vans and use an oversized bolt. Try Genuine Aircraft Hardware at http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com/ . They should have the bolt. Make sure that you also get the correct reamer. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2006
From: Niko <owl40188(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Control Stick Engagement into Control Stick Base.
I have been trying to insert the Control Stick into the Control Base this m orning. I am not sure how much engagement is needed between the two. Righ t now the control stick only goes about as far as the weld between the two tubes in the Base. A little less than half of the unpainted portion of the control stick is not engaged. Does this sound correct?=0A=0ABy the way it took about 2 hrs of working on the inside of the Control Base tubes to get the Control Stick to fit inside it.=0A=0Athanks=0A=0ANiko=0A40188 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: Control Stick Engagement into Control Stick Base.
Date: Nov 20, 2006
Ideally, you want the stick to fit in as far as possible, which means using a round/half-round file to take down the inside of the weld so it fits. You could also use a sanding drum that=92s a little smaller than the stick to take it down. Usually it is just a couple of burrs in there keeping it from going further. On our sticks I think we got about =BE or a little more of the unpainted portion inside. The more you have sticking down inside the more strength you will have, and the less likely you will have a wobble in your stick, which is something I have noticed in a number of -10=92s out there, both flying and in progress. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse(at)itecusa.org"jesse(at)itecusa.org HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Niko Sent: Monday, November 20, 2006 10:25 AM Subject: RV10-List: Control Stick Engagement into Control Stick Base. I have been trying to insert the Control Stick into the Control Base this morning. I am not sure how much engagement is needed between the two. Right now the control stick only goes about as far as the weld between the two tubes in the Base. A little less than half of the unpainted portion of the control stick is not engaged. Does this sound correct? By the way it took about 2 hrs of working on the inside of the Control Base tubes to get the Control Stick to fit inside it. thanks Niko 40188 -- 11/20/2006 6:48 AM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 20, 2006
Subject: Re: RV-10 PAPSP (Pilot & Aircraft Proficiency & Safety Program)
Deems, Please accept this in the vein of safety...if I can help please let me know, I'm currently the Wing Safety Officer, Delaware CAP. Creating a good safety program/flight is a complex issue that will take a good bit of effort but will be well worth the effort. If I can help you in any way as you develop it please let me know...additionally I work in the CAP operational area reviewing the paperwork on our pilot activities...CAP requires each pilot to receive an annual written, flight and oral exam similar to a BFR but with several elements for CAP's requirements. Additionally ORM--Operational Risk Management is a key element to be reviewed before each flight, along with a formal inspection sheet, flight review etc. In the past several years, I've set up a number of safety seminars with the FSDO's now the FAAST Teams and visits to operations...having experienced the MAPA events also. So there are a number of good programs out their one can borrow from. Additionally one might want to visit the major insurance carriers to see if they have standards on PTS and if one completes the PTS what type of discounts one could receive. But the best result one can receive is a group of safety conscious pilots...who know the limits of themselves and their aircraft. If you are really bored, I can send to you a set of DVD's from our last one day seminar with a number of presenters...all most all were experienced CFII ..6 hours of formal presentations plus a ground inspection walk around. Our Wing in the past 4 years has flown over 10,000 hours with one incident...a bird strike...we're pretty proud of our safety record. The wing fly's almost daily weather permitting, as many CAP flight cannot be flown as IFR mission. So the risks are certainly different than what many of the RV 10 pilots will experience. Still Opertional Risk Management should be well under stood by all who venture into the sky's. We'll all see a new program from the FAA's FAAST teams on this area soon but it will have another name. Patrick ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2006
From: Niko <owl40188(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Control Stick Engagement into Control Stick Base.
Thanks for the reply Jesse.=0A=0AIn my case its more than just a burr. One of the tubes is extending about 1/32" so I have to sand down quiet a bit. As far as the wobble I would think that some proseal in the area when inst alling the parts will solve it. I thought it might be a problem with the f unction of the stick because it would be extending further forward.=0A=0Ath anks again=0A=0ANiko=0A40188=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: Je sse Saint =0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Monday, November 20, 2006 11:01:30 AM=0ASubject: RE: RV10-List: Control Stick Enga gement into Control Stick Base.=0A=0A=0AIdeally, you want the stick to fit in as far as possible, which means using a round/half-round file to take do wn the inside of the weld so it fits. You could also use a sanding drum th at=92s a little smaller than the stick to take it down. Usually it is just a couple of burrs in there keeping it from going further. On our sticks I think we got about =BE or a little more of the unpainted portion inside. The more you have sticking down inside the more strength you will have, and the less likely you will have a wobble in your stick, which is something I have noticed in a number of -10=92s out there, both flying and in progress .=0A =0AJesse Saint=0AI-TEC, Inc.=0Ajesse(at)itecusa.org=0Awww.itecusa.org=0AW : 352-465-4545=0AC: 352-427-0285=0A=0A=0A=0AFrom: owner-rv10-list-server@ma tronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Niko =0ASent: Monday, November 20, 2006 10:25 AM=0ATo: Matronics=0ASubject: RV10 -List: Control Stick Engagement into Control Stick Base.=0A =0AI have been trying to insert the Control Stick into the Control Base this morning. I a m not sure how much engagement is needed between the two. Right now the co ntrol stick only goes about as far as the weld between the two tubes in the Base. A little less than half of the unpainted portion of the control stic k is not engaged. Does this sound correct?=0A =0ABy the way it took about 2 hrs of working on the inside of the Control Base tubes to get the Control Stick to fit inside it.=0A =0Athanks=0A =0ANiko=0A40188=0A=0A=0Ahref="ht tp://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com=0Ahref="http://www.builde rsbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com=0Ahref="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kit log.com=0Ahref="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com=0Ahre f="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref ="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/ Navigator?RV10-List=0A=0A=0A-- Release Date: 11/20/2006 6:48 AM -- Release =========== ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Trim cables question
From: "egohr1" <EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu>
Date: Nov 20, 2006
Any flexible tubing will work, I used a heavy wall tube that just slides over the threads and a little larger than the platic end of the rod. This and a little duct tape keep the trim cable from snagging on the snap bushings. I figured this out after 2 hours of fighting with the first one. The second took 10 minutes. :D -------- eric gohr EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=75904#75904 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2006
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-10 PAPSP -Continued
To all who've responded to this thread so far: Thank you for your responses. As Patrick, John and others have pointed out, accomplishing something like this is NOT a minor undertaking. I don't doubt for a moment, the amount of work that would be required to put something like this together, with 40% (+/- 90%) more to go on my own project, I'm also not misleading myself into thinking this is something I could/would do alone or in my own spare time. However, I am willing to put some of the evening time that I spend (along with others time) browsing the boards/lists/websites into developing something that could be of significant value to our community. There is enough anecdotal evidence so far to suggest that the REAL value is there. As Patrick pointed out the biggest value, is a fleet of safety conscious pilots and aircraft. And while this is _First and Foremost_ a Safety and Proficiency idea, It doesn't rule out having some fun and enjoyment. It also doesn't have to be built and implemented in a way that requires us to build and eat the whole elephant at once, perhaps a phased approach is possible? In order for this idea/concept to work, it will have to have a LOT of support from the RV-10 community, as it would be entirely voluntary, there are no compulsory 'enforcement' actions that can be taken other than to withhold some type of certification. It would also require availability and commitment of some particular skills (CFI/CFII), that I for one don't have. (may encourage me to get another rating! :-) ) So with all of that said, the 1st item is to determine what , how much of an interest there is in a program like this, its easy to respond to an e-mail, and although I've received 10 + positive responses to the idea, that's not yet enough (1.5%) in my opinion to make a GO commitment. However it is encouraging enough to continue with the step of determining what kind of an interest there might be in such an event. Apart from this mail list, does anyone else have any additional ideas on how to survey the RV-10 group? I see that Rick S. and Bob K. have received. (If I can figure out how to do it I might put up a survey page on my web site, for those bashful folks who aren't as vocal on the mail list) IF, (big IF) there is enough interest, I'm thinking the next step would be to form an advisory group that would help to specify the mission, establish the scope, set priorities, outline a curriculum, establish governance, etc. Some of you have indicated an willingness.desire to contribute, I'll assemble a list of potential contributors and the skill set/expertise that may be available. If you don't want to respond on-line send me a not offline to register your interest. One of the suggestions was to broaden the concept to the whole RV community. My prior life experience taught me that as the size/complexity of the effort increases, the risk of failure increases exponentially. So I'm inclined to focus on this group (RV-10) for starters. If we can make a go of it, then it could be exported to a wider community. Please keep the suggestions/alternatives/input coming I have learned that the electronic/distributed community is indeed a synergistic organism and there is much more knowledge and expertise out here than I could ever hope to acquire in my lifetime. Deems Davis # 406 Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/ >* >* > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2006
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-10 PAPSP -Continued
The humor was duly noted ( and appreciated) Deems John Jessen wrote: > >Deems, my post on this topic was a lame attempt at humor, as you know. Just >to make sure, in case the humor was not obvious, I want you to know that I >am very much in favor of this and am willing to put time towards it, so > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Teetering on the edge
Date: Nov 20, 2006
From: "Pierre Levy" <pierre(at)danieljofriel.com>
I attended the RV assembly workshop taught by Dan Checkoway this week-end in Watsonville. Very informative and helpful, and I took away two essential points. First, I damaged a lot of perfectly good aluminum, and my technique is going to need a lot of refinement. Second, it's going to take a long, long time to build a 10. Is the build time for a two-seater significantly less? Should I start with that? Thinking maybe the RV-9A? Many thanks for your comments. Pierre Levy EAA 767961 (Teetering on the edge of the precipice, and wondering whether to jump off) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: kilopapa(at)antelecom.net
Subject: Re: Teetering on the edge
Date: Nov 20, 2006
Pierre, You will hone and use the same skills in either one. The real question, I believe, is do you need/want a four place or a two place airplane? Kevin 40494 empennage ----- Original Message Follows ----- From: "Pierre Levy" <pierre(at)danieljofriel.com> Subject: RV10-List: Teetering on the edge Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2006 14:55:51 -0700 >I attended the RV assembly workshop taught by Dan Checkoway >this week-end in Watsonville. Very informative and helpful >, and I took away two essential points. First, I damaged a >lot of perfectly good aluminum, and my technique is going >to need a lot of refinement. Second, it's going to take a >long, long time to build a 10. Is the build time for a >two-seater significantly less? Should I start with that? >Thinking maybe the RV-9A? Many thanks for your comments. > > > >Pierre Levy >EAA 767961 (Teetering on the edge of the precipice, and >wondering whether to jump off) > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Teetering on the edge
Date: Nov 20, 2006
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Don't jump, cause RV-10 builders are like lemmings. Patience is a virtue and to my knowledge not even Dan has completed an RV-10 yet. Having helped on 7s and 9s the scale is "Upscale" and worth the climb. I have the utmost respect for those who have completed 10's cause they are an exclusive group. I do miss James McClow though. John - #600 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pierre Levy Sent: Monday, November 20, 2006 1:56 PM Subject: RV10-List: Teetering on the edge I attended the RV assembly workshop taught by Dan Checkoway this week-end in Watsonville. Very informative and helpful, and I took away two essential points. First, I damaged a lot of perfectly good aluminum, and my technique is going to need a lot of refinement. Second, it's going to take a long, long time to build a 10. Is the build time for a two-seater significantly less? Should I start with that? Thinking maybe the RV-9A? Many thanks for your comments. Pierre Levy EAA 767961 (Teetering on the edge of the precipice, and wondering whether to jump off) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
Subject: Teetering on the edge
Date: Nov 20, 2006
Pierre, Kevin speaks the wisdom here. Mission. Then go build. Some folks have finished a QB -9 in less than a year. Others have taken considerably longer. I believe the -10 is capable of being built and flown in less than 1.5 years. But I'll not come even close to that. However, four seats is my desire, so I'm doing it. Mission. Then go build. John Jessen #40328 (buildus interruptus) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of kilopapa(at)antelecom.net Sent: Monday, November 20, 2006 5:02 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Teetering on the edge Pierre, You will hone and use the same skills in either one. The real question, I believe, is do you need/want a four place or a two place airplane? Kevin 40494 empennage ----- Original Message Follows ----- From: "Pierre Levy" <pierre(at)danieljofriel.com> Subject: RV10-List: Teetering on the edge Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2006 14:55:51 -0700 >I attended the RV assembly workshop taught by Dan Checkoway this >week-end in Watsonville. Very informative and helpful , and I took >away two essential points. First, I damaged a lot of perfectly good >aluminum, and my technique is going to need a lot of refinement. >Second, it's going to take a long, long time to build a 10. Is the >build time for a two-seater significantly less? Should I start with >that? >Thinking maybe the RV-9A? Many thanks for your comments. > > > >Pierre Levy >EAA 767961 (Teetering on the edge of the precipice, and wondering >whether to jump off) > -- 6:48 AM -- 6:48 AM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jdalton77" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Teetering on the edge
Date: Nov 20, 2006
JUST DO IT! ----- Original Message ----- From: Pierre Levy To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, November 20, 2006 4:55 PM Subject: RV10-List: Teetering on the edge I attended the RV assembly workshop taught by Dan Checkoway this week-end in Watsonville. Very informative and helpful, and I took away two essential points. First, I damaged a lot of perfectly good aluminum, and my technique is going to need a lot of refinement. Second, it's going to take a long, long time to build a 10. Is the build time for a two-seater significantly less? Should I start with that? Thinking maybe the RV-9A? Many thanks for your comments. Pierre Levy EAA 767961 (Teetering on the edge of the precipice, and wondering whether to jump off) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Teetering on the edge
Date: Nov 20, 2006
I say go for the -10. I am a first time builder, damaged a lot of perfectly good al and have had a blast. I have a guy building a -9 a couple of hangers away and I do not see much time difference. Far as lemmings are concerned, I don't think they jump, they are pushed..I don't want to push anyone out of this groups, but I agree that it all depends on your mission...I don't think I would have gone the -10 route if I did not need the two additional seats. Rene' Felker 40322 Finish....or something like it. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox Sent: Monday, November 20, 2006 3:19 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Teetering on the edge Don't jump, cause RV-10 builders are like lemmings. Patience is a virtue and to my knowledge not even Dan has completed an RV-10 yet. Having helped on 7s and 9s the scale is "Upscale" and worth the climb. I have the utmost respect for those who have completed 10's cause they are an exclusive group. I do miss James McClow though. John - #600 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pierre Levy Sent: Monday, November 20, 2006 1:56 PM Subject: RV10-List: Teetering on the edge I attended the RV assembly workshop taught by Dan Checkoway this week-end in Watsonville. Very informative and helpful, and I took away two essential points. First, I damaged a lot of perfectly good aluminum, and my technique is going to need a lot of refinement. Second, it's going to take a long, long time to build a 10. Is the build time for a two-seater significantly less? Should I start with that? Thinking maybe the RV-9A? Many thanks for your comments. Pierre Levy EAA 767961 (Teetering on the edge of the precipice, and wondering whether to jump off) <http://www.buildersbooks.com> www.buildersbooks.com www.kitlog.com www.homebuilthelp.com <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> http://www.matronics.com/contribution <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2006
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Teetering on the edge
Pierre As one of the newer additions to the building club I say just jump in. The water is fine. Trust me! Have I ever misled you before? Actually, I don't think you can ever be fully ready to build except that you go into it with an open mind, a willingness to make mistakes, a willingness to learn and a desire to create something with your own hands. Cheers. Les Kearney RV10 # 40643 - Vertical Stab / Rudder -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pierre Levy Sent: Monday, November 20, 2006 2:56 PM Subject: RV10-List: Teetering on the edge I attended the RV assembly workshop taught by Dan Checkoway this week-end in Watsonville. Very informative and helpful, and I took away two essential points. First, I damaged a lot of perfectly good aluminum, and my technique is going to need a lot of refinement. Second, it's going to take a long, long time to build a 10. Is the build time for a two-seater significantly less? Should I start with that? Thinking maybe the RV-9A? Many thanks for your comments. Pierre Levy EAA 767961 (Teetering on the edge of the precipice, and wondering whether to jump off) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Teetering on the edge
Date: Nov 21, 2006
From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
A little anecdote that may help you decide. My wife can talk the leg off an iron pot. I took her for a fly in C152. We had been married for 20 years at that stage, and she said absolutely nothing for 45 mins (first time ever!!!) - she was terrified. Not of my flying, but she was claustraphobic in the two seat cabin. Took her in a 172, Warrior, Arrow etc and she was fine. When I said I was going to build, the decision was simple - if it was a two seater, I would be doing a lot of solo flying. Don't believe what they say - size really DOES matter. cheers, Ron _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pierre Levy Sent: Monday, November 20, 2006 1:56 PM Subject: RV10-List: Teetering on the edge I attended the RV assembly workshop taught by Dan Checkoway this week-end in Watsonville. Very informative and helpful, and I took away two essential points. First, I damaged a lot of perfectly good aluminum, and my technique is going to need a lot of refinement. Second, it's going to take a long, long time to build a 10. Is the build time for a two-seater significantly less? Should I start with that? Thinking maybe the RV-9A? Many thanks for your comments. Pierre Levy EAA 767961 (Teetering on the edge of the precipice, and wondering whether to jump off) <http://www.buildersbooks.com> www.buildersbooks.com www.kitlog.com www.homebuilthelp.com <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> http://www.matronics.com/contribution <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List www.aeroelectric.com www.buildersbooks.com www.kitlog.com www.homebuilthelp.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mark Ritter" <mritter509(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-10 PAPSP -Continued
Date: Nov 20, 2006
Deems, It's going to take a "champion" or small group of champions to keep this great idea moving forward. Hope the group can pull it off. Not sure how the Bonanza folks got it going but would guess they partly financed the effort out of club membership dues and attendance fees. Late responder, Mark (N410MR Flying - Flew to paint shop today) >From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> >Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 PAPSP -Continued Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2006 > > >To all who've responded to this thread so far: > >Thank you for your responses. As Patrick, John and others have pointed out, >accomplishing something like this is NOT a minor undertaking. I don't >doubt for a moment, the amount of work that would be required to put >something like this together, with 40% (+/- 90%) more to go on my own >project, I'm also not misleading myself into thinking this is something I >could/would do alone or in my own spare time. However, I am willing to put >some of the evening time that I spend (along with others time) browsing the >boards/lists/websites into developing something that could be of >significant value to our community. There is enough anecdotal evidence so >far to suggest that the REAL value is there. As Patrick pointed out the >biggest value, is a fleet of safety conscious pilots and aircraft. And >while this is _First and Foremost_ a Safety and Proficiency idea, It >doesn't rule out having some fun and enjoyment. It also doesn't have to be >built and implemented in a way that requires us to build and eat the whole >elephant at once, perhaps a phased approach is possible? > >In order for this idea/concept to work, it will have to have a LOT of >support from the RV-10 community, as it would be entirely voluntary, there >are no compulsory 'enforcement' actions that can be taken other than to >withhold some type of certification. It would also require availability and >commitment of some particular skills (CFI/CFII), that I for one don't have. >(may encourage me to get another rating! :-) ) So with all of that said, >the 1st item is to determine what , how much of an interest there is in a >program like this, its easy to respond to an e-mail, and although I've >received 10 + positive responses to the idea, that's not yet enough (1.5%) >in my opinion to make a GO commitment. However it is encouraging enough to >continue with the step of determining what kind of an interest there might >be in such an event. > >Apart from this mail list, does anyone else have any additional ideas on >how to survey the RV-10 group? I see that Rick S. and Bob K. have received. >(If I can figure out how to do it I might put up a survey page on my web >site, for those bashful folks who aren't as vocal on the mail list) > >IF, (big IF) there is enough interest, I'm thinking the next step would be >to form an advisory group that would help to specify the mission, establish >the scope, set priorities, outline a curriculum, establish governance, etc. >Some of you have indicated an willingness.desire to contribute, I'll >assemble a list of potential contributors and the skill set/expertise that >may be available. If you don't want to respond on-line send me a not >offline to register your interest. > >One of the suggestions was to broaden the concept to the whole RV >community. My prior life experience taught me that as the size/complexity >of the effort increases, the risk of failure increases exponentially. So >I'm inclined to focus on this group (RV-10) for starters. If we can make a >go of it, then it could be exported to a wider community. > >Please keep the suggestions/alternatives/input coming I have learned that >the electronic/distributed community is indeed a synergistic organism and >there is much more knowledge and expertise out here than I could ever hope >to acquire in my lifetime. > > >Deems Davis # 406 >Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) >http://deemsrv10.com/ > > >>* >>* >> > > _________________________________________________________________ Share your latest news with your friends with the Windows Live Spaces friends module. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2006
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Teetering on the edge
Patience is a virtue and to my knowledge not even Dan has completed an RV-10 yet ----------------- Dan sold his kit earlier this year. He told me why in June but I forget why- think he was having too much fun flying formation with his flying (unpainted and to remain so for a while) RV Pascal ----- Original Message ----- From: John W. Cox To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, November 20, 2006 2:19 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Teetering on the edge Don't jump, cause RV-10 builders are like lemmings. Patience is a virtue and to my knowledge not even Dan has completed an RV-10 yet. Having helped on 7s and 9s the scale is "Upscale" and worth the climb. I have the utmost respect for those who have completed 10's cause they are an exclusive group. I do miss James McClow though. John - #600 ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pierre Levy Sent: Monday, November 20, 2006 1:56 PM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: Teetering on the edge I attended the RV assembly workshop taught by Dan Checkoway this week-end in Watsonville. Very informative and helpful, and I took away two essential points. First, I damaged a lot of perfectly good aluminum, and my technique is going to need a lot of refinement. Second, it's going to take a long, long time to build a 10. Is the build time for a two-seater significantly less? Should I start with that? Thinking maybe the RV-9A? Many thanks for your comments. Pierre Levy EAA 767961 (Teetering on the edge of the precipice, and wondering whether to jump off) www.aeroelectric.comwww.buildersbooks.comwww.kitlog.comwww.homebuilthelp. comhttp://www.matronics.com/contributionhttp://www.matronics.com/Navigato r?RV10-List ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Heated Pitot Tube Selection & Angle of Attack Probe
Date: Nov 21, 2006
From: "Patrick Pulis" <patrick.pulis(at)seagas.com.au>
For those of you who have installed (or are considering the installation of) a 12 volt heated Pitot tube in your aircraft, could you please provide me with an indication of what is being installed/considered out there. I am considering either the Gretz Aero GA-1000 or the Falcon (12-AN5812) Pitot tubes or equivalent and would appreciate any feedback please. Has anyone installed and flown their aircraft with an angle of attack probe, if so which one and your thoughts regarding the device please. Regards Patrick Pulis Adelaide, South Australia ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jae Chang" <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com>
Subject: Teetering on the edge
Date: Nov 20, 2006
I have a friend building a -9, who started about 3 years ago or so. Some of the pros I see are: - cost is significantly less expensive. the kit is less. also, his new engine was in the $20k price range from aerosport, for an IO-320, i think. he probably also had a greater choice of engines to choose from, i believe. this may be just because the -9 has been available longer - not sure. the lycoming 540 is the most mentioned, and the only van's supported engine for the -10. however, recently, i thought i just read that even angle-valve versions are not feasible. i am too far away from choosing an engine to be much more knowledgable about the subject. - plane is much smaller, which is attractive from a build perspective for space-challenged workspaces. - smaller parts means fewer edges and holes to deburr, fewer rivets to set, and a faster build time, let's say if you could start both models in some parallel universe. - finally, a tailwheel version is available!!! As far as cons go: - his plans came in 2 separate parts: instructions and diagrams. Not sure if the current plans are the same. The integrated -10 plans are definitely much nicer to work with. Personally, i still would not change, at least not yet. We'll see once my bank account has fewer zeroes in it! I just wanted to give you some other tradeoffs to weigh in a decision, that i made myself a year ago. Let us know what you decide! Jae #40533 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pierre Levy Sent: Monday, November 20, 2006 1:56 PM Subject: RV10-List: Teetering on the edge I attended the RV assembly workshop taught by Dan Checkoway this week-end in Watsonville. Very informative and helpful, and I took away two essential points. First, I damaged a lot of perfectly good aluminum, and my technique is going to need a lot of refinement. Second, it's going to take a long, long time to build a 10. Is the build time for a two-seater significantly less? Should I start with that? Thinking maybe the RV-9A? Many thanks for your comments. Pierre Levy EAA 767961 (Teetering on the edge of the precipice, and wondering whether to jump off) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2006
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Headliner Material - foam backed or plain?
I'm looking for input, preferences, experience with headliner material. It appears that the standard auto headliner is foam backed, I can see plus's and minus's to this. What are people using or considering and what sources have people found? I saw a Lancair interior @ Osh that appeared to have a wool looking woven tweed fabric that looked really smart. here's a link to a pic i took of it. http://deemsrv10.com/album/OSHKOSH%202006/slides/DSC03138.html How are folks attaching it to the Cabin top, Glue? Type? Is anybody making a 'backing board' like some auto installs? Another related question, is whether it is worth it to install the headliner with the Cabin Cover off and upside down, or just how much harder it is to do with it already mounted on the canopy. I'd rather wait until it's final/hard mounted and any painting that will be done is complete. and then put the headliner in. Appreciate any input. Deems Davis # 406 Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rob Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Teetering on the edge
Date: Nov 20, 2006
Pierre, Are you married? If so, 1) there has been a lot of spouse input on the topic of building lately, and you can find it on Tim O's site, and 2) get your spouse's input! I was going to build a Mustang II until my wife said, "If you're going to build anything then it needs to have four seats." Yes Ma'am!!! If not married, then the best advice has already been given - 1) mission, 2) build it! Rob Wright #392 No seats yet. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pierre Levy Sent: Monday, November 20, 2006 3:56 PM Subject: RV10-List: Teetering on the edge I attended the RV assembly workshop taught by Dan Checkoway this week-end in Watsonville. Very informative and helpful, and I took away two essential points. First, I damaged a lot of perfectly good aluminum, and my technique is going to need a lot of refinement. Second, it's going to take a long, long time to build a 10. Is the build time for a two-seater significantly less? Should I start with that? Thinking maybe the RV-9A? Many thanks for your comments. Pierre Levy EAA 767961 (Teetering on the edge of the precipice, and wondering whether to jump off) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rob Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Heated Pitot Tube Selection & Angle of Attack Probe
Date: Nov 20, 2006
It'll be hard to beat the Gretz for price and performance. It's an experimental only pitot, but it's a "smart" pitot tube. Other pitots throw raw amperage to the tube, which after a while wastes the energy on heat and can overheat if forgotten in dry, VMC air. For a very comparable price, the Gretz warms the pitot to about 100 degrees F, and then through a circuit board reduces the energy to maintain the temp at about 100. There is an LED board to let you know status of the tube at any time, and the instructions are about middle of the road for simplicity. Of course, I like things spelled out very simply though. Read more about it on Gretz's and Tim O's sites. Rob Wright #392 Fuse _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis Sent: Monday, November 20, 2006 7:03 PM Subject: RV10-List: Heated Pitot Tube Selection & Angle of Attack Probe For those of you who have installed (or are considering the installation of) a 12 volt heated Pitot tube in your aircraft, could you please provide me with an indication of what is being installed/considered out there. I am considering either the Gretz Aero GA-1000 or the Falcon (12-AN5812) Pitot tubes or equivalent and would appreciate any feedback please. Has anyone installed and flown their aircraft with an angle of attack probe, if so which one and your thoughts regarding the device please. Regards Patrick Pulis Adelaide, South Australia ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2006
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV10 PSP Proficienty & Safety Program Objectives -Draft
If I'm taking up too much bandwidth with this let me know, But I felt the need to get something short concise and written that would serve to guide efforts as we go down this path. Some call these Mission statements, I took a crack at drafting an Objective statement the intent is the same. If this program is built to meet/suit the needs of the RV10 community, the communities feedback and input in crafting this is essential. Please review and critique it, rip it apart, modify it, and improve it in any way you think will add value or clarify what we are attempting to do, I'm pretty thick skinned and won't take offense at any input. I'll digest everything I receive and publish an update when the input dries up. If we have conflicting input we'll put it back to the group for a tie breaker. I want to make it clear that I'm not trying to take ownership of this or to stake out any turf, I'm probably the least qualified person to tackle something like this, based upon information that I've seen/received from several, there are many who have impressive credentials in the area of aviation and safety arena and are more qualified. So the floor is open for nominations. I included a VERY high level outline of how we might go about some of the next steps. Please note there are no time frames on anything at this point (contradicts my background, but suits my present reality, which is to make it Fun and not Work) My expectation is that building this could take months/years. If we can get a community consensus on Objective, Program Components/Elements and Priorities, we can break the development and implementation into incremental steps. Thanks for the interest expressed thus far and any suggestions going forward Deems Davis # 406 Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net>
Subject: Re: Headliner Material - foam backed or plain?
Date: Nov 20, 2006
Deems, I use 1/4" foam back auto type headliner attached using 3M 90 high temp cement glue. It comes in 1/8" also. I attached after the cabin top was installed. I'm quite happy with mine. Tim Olson used the same but didn't like it if I remember correctly. He ended up ripping his out. He also installed his prior to installing the cabin top. I think there are pluses and minus either way. Anh #141 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> Sent: Monday, November 20, 2006 8:09 PM Subject: RV10-List: Headliner Material - foam backed or plain? > > > I'm looking for input, preferences, experience with headliner material. > It appears that the standard auto headliner is foam backed, I can see > plus's and minus's to this. What are people using or considering and what > sources have people found? I saw a Lancair interior @ Osh that appeared to > have a wool looking woven tweed fabric that looked really smart. here's a > link to a pic i took of it. > http://deemsrv10.com/album/OSHKOSH%202006/slides/DSC03138.html How are > folks attaching it to the Cabin top, Glue? Type? Is anybody making a > 'backing board' like some auto installs? > > Another related question, is whether it is worth it to install the > headliner with the Cabin Cover off and upside down, or just how much > harder it is to do with it already mounted on the canopy. I'd rather wait > until it's final/hard mounted and any painting that will be done is > complete. and then put the headliner in. > > Appreciate any input. > > Deems Davis # 406 > Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) > http://deemsrv10.com/ > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Headliner Material - foam backed or plain?
Date: Nov 21, 2006
Deems, the foam prevents bleedthrough of the adhesive and helps hide surface imperfections. On foam backed headliner we use sprayable contact cement or landau top glue(same)the foam really makes it idiot proof. On thinner materials, I use 3m trim adhesive in thin lines overhead, and 3m super 77 aerosol sprayed thin on the peripheral. If the glue wicks into the material it creates hard dark spots.....try miamicorp.com for materials, just drop me an email if you need wholesale acct info. You can buy on mine and dropship to yourself if you see what you need. Steve 40205 > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list- > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis > Sent: Monday, November 20, 2006 8:09 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Headliner Material - foam backed or plain? > > > I'm looking for input, preferences, experience with headliner > material. It appears that the standard auto headliner is foam backed, > I can see plus's and minus's to this. What are people using or > considering and what sources have people found? I saw a Lancair interior > @ Osh that appeared to have a wool looking woven tweed fabric that > looked really smart. here's a link to a pic i took of it. > http://deemsrv10.com/album/OSHKOSH%202006/slides/DSC03138.html How are > folks attaching it to the Cabin top, Glue? Type? Is anybody making a > 'backing board' like some auto installs? > > Another related question, is whether it is worth it to install the > headliner with the Cabin Cover off and upside down, or just how much > harder it is to do with it already mounted on the canopy. I'd rather > wait until it's final/hard mounted and any painting that will be done is > complete. and then put the headliner in. > > Appreciate any input. > > Deems Davis # 406 > Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) > http://deemsrv10.com/ > > > > > > > -- > 11/20/2006 > -- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2006
From: Scott Gesele <sgesele(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Control Stick Engagement
> From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Control Stick Engagement > into Control Stick Base. > > Good point Jesse. 2 additional comments... > > 1) I used a dremel tool sanding drum. Worked well > to > deal with the inside of the bore. > > 2) Regarding stick wobble/slop: I just dealt with > this > myself. I noticed I had a bit of looseness in the > stick. > At OSH I compared it to Vic's and he had some too. > Over > the last couple weeks I actually got rid of mine > completely. > Here's more... > > The source of the slop in my case was actually the > OD of the > BUSHING 065 x .375 x 2.313 shown on page 39-8. (see > attached > .jpg) > Or more accurately, the sloppy hole in my WD-1011-L > & R. > The way bushings normally work, you want them to > have one > movable surface, the ID that rides on the removable > bolt. > You want the OD of the bushing to be fixed to the > WD-1011 > somewhat. The AN4-27 bolt that holds the assembly > together > doesn't get cranked really tight, hence the castle > nut. You > want to trim the bushing so it's longer than the > WD-10ll, > but still fits in the mating part. If necessary, > you trim > the WD-1011 shorter. The slop in my case though was > the OD > of that bushing, as I mentioned. I could stick the > bushing > in, then stick the bolt through, and rock the bolt > up and > down slightly, feeling the slop. The reamed ID of > the > bushing was very snug on the bolt, but the OD was > slopping > around in the WD-1011. > > I fixed it by using a loctite product "Loctite quick > metal > 660" that I had sitting around from a previous > bushing > repair a couple years ago. > http://www.chemicalcontacts.co.za/teroson/retainers.htm > You could probably use many of the ones on this > page. > Basically, it just fills the gap and solidifies the > bushing to the WD-1011, so it now pivots on the > nicely > fit bolt. When tightening the AN4-27, you just > bring it > up tight, then loosen it to the next castle, so it's > not sloppy, but non-restrictive. Wala, no more > stick slop. > > The only downside is in the ultra-ultra-long term > when > you want to replace the bushing. It'll be tight in > the > WD-1011, and will probably require you to drill out > the > bushing to the OD size so you can install a new one. > > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD Flying Tim, Let me get this straight, you basically glued the brass bushing into the control stick and installed this assembly with a reduced torque on the bolt? What did Vans say about your modifications to the primary flight controls on the aircraft? The control stick is designed to rotate on the brass bushing and the bushing must be captured firmly in the main weldment. Right now, all of your wear will be at the end of the brass bushing (remember your nose gear spacers). When this does wear down, you will have steel on steel. In the original design, the bushing is longer than WD-1011L or R. It is this difference that results in some minor slop, but it also produced a space that eliminated any steel on steel wear. As time goes on, you will lose this size differential. If your bearing did not fit properly in the stick weldment, then something was not right. I have installed these components on both an RV-6A and RV-10. In both aircraft, there was not any play between the bearing and weldment. It sound like one of your parts may not be within tolerance. Its your airplane and you are the manufacturer, so install it however you want. I strongly encourage anyone who is thinking about modifying any critical system to run the modification by the designer of the aircraft. Instrument panels, interiors, paint, etc are open for personal creativeness, primary flight controls are not. Scott Gesele N506RV Flying RV-6A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2006
From: Scott Gesele <sgesele(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Control Stick Engagement
> From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Control Stick Engagement > into Control Stick Base. > > Good point Jesse. 2 additional comments... > > 1) I used a dremel tool sanding drum. Worked well > to > deal with the inside of the bore. > > 2) Regarding stick wobble/slop: I just dealt with > this > myself. I noticed I had a bit of looseness in the > stick. > At OSH I compared it to Vic's and he had some too. > Over > the last couple weeks I actually got rid of mine > completely. > Here's more... > > The source of the slop in my case was actually the > OD of the > BUSHING 065 x .375 x 2.313 shown on page 39-8. (see > attached > .jpg) > Or more accurately, the sloppy hole in my WD-1011-L > & R. > The way bushings normally work, you want them to > have one > movable surface, the ID that rides on the removable > bolt. > You want the OD of the bushing to be fixed to the > WD-1011 > somewhat. The AN4-27 bolt that holds the assembly > together > doesn't get cranked really tight, hence the castle > nut. You > want to trim the bushing so it's longer than the > WD-10ll, > but still fits in the mating part. If necessary, > you trim > the WD-1011 shorter. The slop in my case though was > the OD > of that bushing, as I mentioned. I could stick the > bushing > in, then stick the bolt through, and rock the bolt > up and > down slightly, feeling the slop. The reamed ID of > the > bushing was very snug on the bolt, but the OD was > slopping > around in the WD-1011. > > I fixed it by using a loctite product "Loctite quick > metal > 660" that I had sitting around from a previous > bushing > repair a couple years ago. > http://www.chemicalcontacts.co.za/teroson/retainers.htm > You could probably use many of the ones on this > page. > Basically, it just fills the gap and solidifies the > bushing to the WD-1011, so it now pivots on the > nicely > fit bolt. When tightening the AN4-27, you just > bring it > up tight, then loosen it to the next castle, so it's > not sloppy, but non-restrictive. Wala, no more > stick slop. > > The only downside is in the ultra-ultra-long term > when > you want to replace the bushing. It'll be tight in > the > WD-1011, and will probably require you to drill out > the > bushing to the OD size so you can install a new one. > > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD Flying Tim, Let me get this straight, you basically glued the brass bushing into the control stick and installed this assembly with a reduced torque on the bolt? What did Vans say about your modifications to the primary flight controls on the aircraft? The control stick is designed to rotate on the brass bushing and the bushing must be captured firmly in the main weldment. Right now, all of your wear will be at the end of the brass bushing (remember your nose gear spacers). When this does wear down, you will have steel on steel. In the original design, the bushing is longer than WD-1011L or R. It is this difference that results in some minor slop, but it also produced a space that eliminated any steel on steel wear. As time goes on, you will lose this size differential. If your bearing did not fit properly in the stick weldment, then something was not right. I have installed these components on both an RV-6A and RV-10. In both aircraft, there was not any play between the bearing and weldment. It sound like one of your parts may not be within tolerance. Its your airplane and you are the manufacturer, so install it however you want. I strongly encourage anyone who is thinking about modifying any critical system to run the modification by the designer of the aircraft. Instrument panels, interiors, paint, etc are open for personal creativeness, primary flight controls are not. Scott Gesele N506RV Flying RV-6A Degrees online in as fast as 1 Yr MBA, Bachelor's, Master's, Assoc http://yahoo.degrees.info ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV10 PSP Proficienty & Safety Program Objectives -Draft
Date: Nov 21, 2006
From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com>
Looks good for a first pass, one suggestion is to separate flying/ maintaining from building. While I understand most of us on this list and who would be attending will be builders, there will eventually be many people who bought and are flying, and I would not want to exclude them because they thought it was a builders course? Dan -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Monday, November 20, 2006 10:57 PM Subject: RV10-List: RV10 PSP Proficienty & Safety Program Objectives -Draft If I'm taking up too much bandwidth with this let me know, But I felt the need to get something short concise and written that would serve to guide efforts as we go down this path. Some call these Mission statements, I took a crack at drafting an Objective statement the intent is the same. If this program is built to meet/suit the needs of the RV10 community, the communities feedback and input in crafting this is essential. Please review and critique it, rip it apart, modify it, and improve it in any way you think will add value or clarify what we are attempting to do, I'm pretty thick skinned and won't take offense at any input. I'll digest everything I receive and publish an update when the input dries up. If we have conflicting input we'll put it back to the group for a tie breaker. I want to make it clear that I'm not trying to take ownership of this or to stake out any turf, I'm probably the least qualified person to tackle something like this, based upon information that I've seen/received from several, there are many who have impressive credentials in the area of aviation and safety arena and are more qualified. So the floor is open for nominations. I included a VERY high level outline of how we might go about some of the next steps. Please note there are no time frames on anything at this point (contradicts my background, but suits my present reality, which is to make it Fun and not Work) My expectation is that building this could take months/years. If we can get a community consensus on Objective, Program Components/Elements and Priorities, we can break the development and implementation into incremental steps. Thanks for the interest expressed thus far and any suggestions going forward Deems Davis # 406 Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Teetering on the edge
Date: Nov 21, 2006
From: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com>
I've built both a RV-9A and a RV-10. It took me 2 yr and 7 months to the finish the 9 in 1863 hours. It was painted except for the cowl and the wheel pants were not completed. My RV-10 was finished in 1 yr and 10 months for a total of 2200 hours with no paint or wheel pants. Both of these projects were slow build. I can say first hand that the 10 has a lot more rivets and a lot more structure to complete. As you can see the 10 took about 400 more hours and this was after all the experience I gained from building the 9 first. Both the 9 and 10 are both fully matched hole so it is really going to come down to "do you need 2 seats or four seat" or to just want all the extra space to haul things like camping gear, golf clubs etc. I have to tell you, I love flying the 10 even if I fly it alone. It handles so nice and if I don't care about speed, I fly at 20" at 2,000 rpm and burn 8.0 - 8.5 GPH at any altitude for that $100 hamburger or to the nearest airport to grab breakfast. Thank You Ray Doerr N519RV (40250) Flying 175 hours and counting. Almost ready for IFR checkride in my RV-10. Pierre Levy wrote: > I attended the RV assembly workshop taught by Dan Checkoway this > week-end in Watsonville. Very informative and helpful, and I took away > two essential points. First, I damaged a lot of perfectly good > aluminum, and my technique is going to need a lot of refinement. > Second, it's going to take a long, long time to build a 10. Is the > build time for a two-seater significantly less? Should I start with > that? Thinking maybe the RV-9A? Many thanks for your comments. > > > > Pierre Levy > EAA 767961 (Teetering on the edge of the precipice, and wondering > whether to jump off) > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2006
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV10PSP - stay away from 'Builder'
Dan great input, I received a similar suggestion from Patrick, There are a number of people already focused on the building process and I'm not sure we can/should try to add anything there, probably should stay focused on the flying / maintaining safely objective. Deems Davis # 406 Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/ Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote: > >Looks good for a first pass, one suggestion is to separate flying/ >maintaining from building. While I understand most of us on this list >and who would be attending will be builders, there will eventually be >many people who bought and are flying, and I would not want to exclude >them because they thought it was a builders course? >Dan > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2006
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-10 PAPSP -Continued again!
The Mooney MAPA SF PPP operates about the same schedule, 2.5 days of ground and flight instruction, 12 hours classroom, 4 hours flying, for $795. They don't recover full cost at that price and depend on some donations. They also charge the same for a new owner of a $40K, 45 yr old Mooney as the new owner of a $400K glass panel new Mooney. That generates some heated arguments. At least with the RV-10 you are talking about pretty similar airframes with about the same powerplants, with most of the variation likely in the instrument panel equipment. And they will all be relatively new. You may want to think about minimum requirements of flight experience, getting rider for the instructor's coverage from the insurer of the owner's policy, what preflight inspection of the aircraft you want, to protect the "organization" and the instructor. I don't think you want it to be transition training, or if so, someone would have to provide the aircraft and instructor, and probably should be a separate course. On 11/21/06, linn Walters wrote: > > There still is a fee: > Pricing > > *Full Course* > *Tuition* > > *Ground School ONLY (no flying)* > > Dukes > > $1495 > > > $747 > > Bonanzas, Barons, Travel Airs: > > $1295 > > > $647 > > Non-Pilot Companion Course > > $165 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2006
From: rv10builder <rv10builder(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Heated Pitot Tube Selection & Angle of Attack Probe
Along that same theme....what type of tubing should we (or can we) use with the Gretz? Rob Wright wrote: > > Itll be hard to beat the Gretz for price and performance. Its an > experimental only pitot, but its a smart pitot tube. Other pitots > throw raw amperage to the tube, which after a while wastes the energy > on heat and can overheat if forgotten in dry, VMC air. For a very > comparable price, the Gretz warms the pitot to about 100 degrees F, > and then through a circuit board reduces the energy to maintain the > temp at about 100. There is an LED board to let you know status of the > tube at any time, and the instructions are about middle of the road > for simplicity. Of course, I like things spelled out very simply though. > > Read more about it on Gretzs and Tim Os sites. > > Rob Wright > > #392 > > Fuse > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Patrick Pulis > *Sent:* Monday, November 20, 2006 7:03 PM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* RV10-List: Heated Pitot Tube Selection & Angle of Attack Probe > > For those of you who have installed (or are considering the > installation of) a 12 volt heated Pitot tube in your aircraft, could > you please provide me with an indication of what is being > installed/considered out there. > > I am considering either the Gretz Aero GA-1000 or the Falcon > (12-AN5812) Pitot tubes or equivalent and would appreciate any > feedback please. > > Has anyone installed and flown their aircraft with an angle of attack > probe, if so which one and your thoughts regarding the device please. > > Regards > > Patrick Pulis > > Adelaide, South Australia > > * * > * * > ** > ** > ** > *www.aeroelectric.com* > *www.kitlog.com <http://www.kitlog.com>* > ** > ** > ** > ** > *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List* > * * > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rob Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Heated Pitot Tube Selection & Angle of Attack Probe
Date: Nov 21, 2006
It's in the instructions, not sure if they're available on Gretz's site. You can use either aluminum or "plastic" tubing, a la SafeAir. Instructions say that if you use the plastic-type tubing to use a short run of metal tubing before changing to the plastic. I used the 6" metal run built into the Gretz pitot before I connected the plastic tubing. Rob Wright #392 Fuse - soundproofing -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv10builder Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2006 3:06 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Heated Pitot Tube Selection & Angle of Attack Probe Along that same theme....what type of tubing should we (or can we) use with the Gretz? Rob Wright wrote: > > It'll be hard to beat the Gretz for price and performance. It's an > experimental only pitot, but it's a "smart" pitot tube. Other pitots > throw raw amperage to the tube, which after a while wastes the energy > on heat and can overheat if forgotten in dry, VMC air. For a very > comparable price, the Gretz warms the pitot to about 100 degrees F, > and then through a circuit board reduces the energy to maintain the > temp at about 100. There is an LED board to let you know status of the > tube at any time, and the instructions are about middle of the road > for simplicity. Of course, I like things spelled out very simply though. > > Read more about it on Gretz's and Tim O's sites. > > Rob Wright > > #392 > > Fuse > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Patrick Pulis > *Sent:* Monday, November 20, 2006 7:03 PM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* RV10-List: Heated Pitot Tube Selection & Angle of Attack Probe > > For those of you who have installed (or are considering the > installation of) a 12 volt heated Pitot tube in your aircraft, could > you please provide me with an indication of what is being > installed/considered out there. > > I am considering either the Gretz Aero GA-1000 or the Falcon > (12-AN5812) Pitot tubes or equivalent and would appreciate any > feedback please. > > Has anyone installed and flown their aircraft with an angle of attack > probe, if so which one and your thoughts regarding the device please. > > Regards > > Patrick Pulis > > Adelaide, South Australia > > * * > * * > ** > ** > ** > *www.aeroelectric.com* > *www.kitlog.com <http://www.kitlog.com>* > ** > ** > ** > ** > *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List* > * * > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: insurance
Date: Nov 21, 2006
From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com>
All replying about insurance costs - Would it be indiscreet to include your total hours and ratings along with your premium? I think it would help gauge things a bit... cj #40410 fuse www.perfectlygoodairplane.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2006
From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Heated Pitot Tube Selection & Angle of Attack Probe
From the Gretz Instructions (thanks to those that sent them to me): To plumb the tubing to the airspeed indicator to the pitot tube, the builder can use either the plastic type of instrument tube or aluminum tube. If the aluminum tube is used, not the "additional parts needed" list at the top of this sheet. The builder will need to flair both the tube from the pitot and the tube coming from the panel. Connect these together by using the parts listed. Additional parts needed from another source (for attaching pitot tube to aluminum line 1 each AN 815-4D union for flared tubes 2 each AN 818-4D nut 2 each AN 819-4D sleeve As you would expect builders are using both aluminum tube (as per the plans) and plastic tubing. Larry #356 Rob Wright wrote: > > It's in the instructions, not sure if they're available on Gretz's site. > You can use either aluminum or "plastic" tubing, a la SafeAir. Instructions > say that if you use the plastic-type tubing to use a short run of metal > tubing before changing to the plastic. I used the 6" metal run built into > the Gretz pitot before I connected the plastic tubing. > > Rob Wright > #392 > Fuse - soundproofing > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv10builder > Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2006 3:06 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Heated Pitot Tube Selection & Angle of Attack Probe > > > Along that same theme....what type of tubing should we (or can we) use > with the Gretz? > > Rob Wright wrote: > >> It'll be hard to beat the Gretz for price and performance. It's an >> experimental only pitot, but it's a "smart" pitot tube. Other pitots >> throw raw amperage to the tube, which after a while wastes the energy >> on heat and can overheat if forgotten in dry, VMC air. For a very >> comparable price, the Gretz warms the pitot to about 100 degrees F, >> and then through a circuit board reduces the energy to maintain the >> temp at about 100. There is an LED board to let you know status of the >> tube at any time, and the instructions are about middle of the road >> for simplicity. Of course, I like things spelled out very simply though. >> >> Read more about it on Gretz's and Tim O's sites. >> >> Rob Wright >> >> #392 >> >> Fuse >> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> >> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Patrick Pulis >> *Sent:* Monday, November 20, 2006 7:03 PM >> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> *Subject:* RV10-List: Heated Pitot Tube Selection & Angle of Attack Probe >> >> For those of you who have installed (or are considering the >> installation of) a 12 volt heated Pitot tube in your aircraft, could >> you please provide me with an indication of what is being >> installed/considered out there. >> >> I am considering either the Gretz Aero GA-1000 or the Falcon >> (12-AN5812) Pitot tubes or equivalent and would appreciate any >> feedback please. >> >> Has anyone installed and flown their aircraft with an angle of attack >> probe, if so which one and your thoughts regarding the device please. >> >> Regards >> >> Patrick Pulis >> >> Adelaide, South Australia >> >> * * >> * * >> ** >> ** >> ** >> *www.aeroelectric.com* >> *www.kitlog.com <http://www.kitlog.com>* >> ** >> ** >> ** >> ** >> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List* >> * * >> * >> >> >> * >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2006
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Heated Pitot Tube Selection & Angle of Attack Probe
I've got a copy of the instructions on my site: http://deemsrv10.com/album/Gretz%20Instructioins/index.html Deems Davis # 406 Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/ Rob Wright wrote: > >It's in the instructions, not sure if they're available on Gretz's site. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mark Ritter" <mritter509(at)msn.com>
Subject: insurance
Date: Nov 21, 2006
Not at all. 1200 hours PIC, instrument rating. 800 hours complex time (Bonanza and Piper Lance). Have insured with Falcon for 20+ years. $3,000 for $150,000 hull coverage and liability. Mark >From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> >Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: RE: RV10-List: insurance >Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2006 16:38:35 -0800 > > >All replying about insurance costs - > >Would it be indiscreet to include your total hours and ratings along >with your premium? I think it would help gauge things a bit... > >cj >#40410 >fuse >www.perfectlygoodairplane.net > > _________________________________________________________________ All-in-one security and maintenance for your PC. Get a free 90-day trial! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Please Make a Contribution to Support Your Lists...
Dear Listers, Just a reminder that November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Please make a Contribution today to support the continued operation and upgrade of these great List services!! Pick up a really nice free gift with your qualifying Contribution too! The Contribution Site is fast and easy: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: insurance
From: "Jim & Julie Wade" <jwade(at)msdeltawireless.com>
Date: Nov 22, 2006
I was quoted 3000 also for 150000. I have 14000 hrs, com. instrument CFI. Doesn't seem to make any difference how many hours you have past a certain point. I think the price is way high. My Cessna 210 wasn't that high. Jim 40383 55 hrs and loving it. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=76357#76357 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: insurance
Date: Nov 22, 2006
And you wonder why Rick and I desired to start Aircraft Mutual? Bob K 90/90 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim & Julie Wade Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2006 5:31 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: insurance I was quoted 3000 also for 150000. I have 14000 hrs, com. instrument CFI. Doesn't seem to make any difference how many hours you have past a certain point. I think the price is way high. My Cessna 210 wasn't that high. Jim 40383 55 hrs and loving it. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=76357#76357 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Leikam" <DAVELEIKAM(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Teetering on the edge
Date: Nov 22, 2006
I wanted to build an 8. Then my wife surprised me with a 10 kit for my birthday and said if you are going to build a plane, the whole family has to be able to fly. How could I argue? I agree with "Build for the best mission." Dave Leikam 40496 tailcone - (dimple, dimple, dimple...) N89DA Muskego, WI ----- Original Message ----- From: Rene Felker To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, November 20, 2006 5:43 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Teetering on the edge I say go for the -10. I am a first time builder, damaged a lot of perfectly good al and have had a blast. I have a guy building a -9 a couple of hangers away and I do not see much time difference. Far as lemmings are concerned, I don't think they jump, they are pushed..I don't want to push anyone out of this groups, but I agree that it all depends on your mission...I don't think I would have gone the -10 route if I did not need the two additional seats. Rene' Felker 40322 Finish....or something like it. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox Sent: Monday, November 20, 2006 3:19 PM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RE: RV10-List: Teetering on the edge Don't jump, cause RV-10 builders are like lemmings. Patience is a virtue and to my knowledge not even Dan has completed an RV-10 yet. Having helped on 7s and 9s the scale is "Upscale" and worth the climb. I have the utmost respect for those who have completed 10's cause they are an exclusive group. I do miss James McClow though. John - #600 ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pierre Levy Sent: Monday, November 20, 2006 1:56 PM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: Teetering on the edge I attended the RV assembly workshop taught by Dan Checkoway this week-end in Watsonville. Very informative and helpful, and I took away two essential points. First, I damaged a lot of perfectly good aluminum, and my technique is going to need a lot of refinement. Second, it's going to take a long, long time to build a 10. Is the build time for a two-seater significantly less? Should I start with that? Thinking maybe the RV-9A? Many thanks for your comments. Pierre Levy EAA 767961 (Teetering on the edge of the precipice, and wondering whether to jump off) www.buildersbooks.comwww.kitlog.comwww.homebuilthelp.comhttp://www.matron ics.com/contributionhttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List www.aeroelectric.comwww.kitlog.comhttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10 -List ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dean Van Winkle" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net>
Subject: Re: Control Stick Engagement
Date: Nov 22, 2006
Tim and Jesse I am with Scott on the bronze bushing part of the installation. The bushing should normally be captured by design, either as a press fit, or as in this case captured by the torqued up through bolt with a castellated nut and cotter pin. The bushing is the sacrificial wear part and readily replaceable here. The wear rate on the bushing is reduced by utilizing the larger surface area / lower unit pressures on the outside of the bushing. Normal design practice in aircraft control systems is to use castellated nuts on any joint where there could be rotation on the joint. While the castellated nut might appear to be overkill in this instance, it does guarantee that the torque is retained on the bolt while a used lock nut might not. I also think that it is highly likely that the bushing OD or the tube ID on the WD-1011 is out of tolerance. I did not have this situation on my RV-9A. Dean Van Winkle Retired Aero Engineer RV-9A Fuselage/Finish ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Gesele" <sgesele(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2006 8:07 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Control Stick Engagement > >> From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Control Stick Engagement >> into Control Stick Base. >> >> Good point Jesse. 2 additional comments... >> >> 1) I used a dremel tool sanding drum. Worked well >> to >> deal with the inside of the bore. >> >> 2) Regarding stick wobble/slop: I just dealt with >> this >> myself. I noticed I had a bit of looseness in the >> stick. >> At OSH I compared it to Vic's and he had some too. >> Over >> the last couple weeks I actually got rid of mine >> completely. >> Here's more... >> >> The source of the slop in my case was actually the >> OD of the >> BUSHING 065 x .375 x 2.313 shown on page 39-8. (see >> attached >> .jpg) >> Or more accurately, the sloppy hole in my WD-1011-L >> & R. >> The way bushings normally work, you want them to >> have one >> movable surface, the ID that rides on the removable >> bolt. >> You want the OD of the bushing to be fixed to the >> WD-1011 >> somewhat. The AN4-27 bolt that holds the assembly >> together >> doesn't get cranked really tight, hence the castle >> nut. You >> want to trim the bushing so it's longer than the >> WD-10ll, >> but still fits in the mating part. If necessary, >> you trim >> the WD-1011 shorter. The slop in my case though was >> the OD >> of that bushing, as I mentioned. I could stick the >> bushing >> in, then stick the bolt through, and rock the bolt >> up and >> down slightly, feeling the slop. The reamed ID of >> the >> bushing was very snug on the bolt, but the OD was >> slopping >> around in the WD-1011. >> >> I fixed it by using a loctite product "Loctite quick >> metal >> 660" that I had sitting around from a previous >> bushing >> repair a couple years ago. >> > http://www.chemicalcontacts.co.za/teroson/retainers.htm >> You could probably use many of the ones on this >> page. >> Basically, it just fills the gap and solidifies the >> bushing to the WD-1011, so it now pivots on the >> nicely >> fit bolt. When tightening the AN4-27, you just >> bring it >> up tight, then loosen it to the next castle, so it's >> not sloppy, but non-restrictive. Wala, no more >> stick slop. >> >> The only downside is in the ultra-ultra-long term >> when >> you want to replace the bushing. It'll be tight in >> the >> WD-1011, and will probably require you to drill out >> the >> bushing to the OD size so you can install a new one. >> >> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying > > Tim, > > Let me get this straight, you basically glued the > brass bushing into the control stick and installed > this assembly with a reduced torque on the bolt? What > did Van's say about your modifications to the primary > flight controls on the aircraft? The control stick is > designed to rotate on the brass bushing and the > bushing must be captured firmly in the main weldment. > Right now, all of your wear will be at the end of the > brass bushing (remember your nose gear spacers). When > this does wear down, you will have steel on steel. In > the original design, the bushing is longer than > WD-1011L or R. It is this difference that results in > some minor slop, but it also produced a space that > eliminated any steel on steel wear. As time goes on, > you will lose this size differential. If your bearing > did not fit properly in the stick weldment, then > something was not right. I have installed these > components on both an RV-6A and RV-10. In both > aircraft, there was not any play between the bearing > and weldment. It sound like one of your parts may not > be within tolerance. > > It's your airplane and you are the manufacturer, so > install it however you want. I strongly encourage > anyone who is thinking about modifying any critical > system to run the modification by the designer of the > aircraft. Instrument panels, interiors, paint, etc > are open for personal creativeness, primary flight > controls are not. > > Scott Gesele > N506RV - Flying RV-6A > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Try SPAMfighter for free now! ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Is AS3-063 X .500 1.4375 part of the kit?
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <michael(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Nov 22, 2006
Hello, can someone please tell me if the AS3-063 X .500 1.4375 on page 10-17 step 1 is included in the kit? I cant find it anywhere. Thank you in advance Michael http://www.wellenzohn.net[/url] -------- RV-10 builder #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=76427#76427 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 2006
From: James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net>
Subject: Re: Is AS3-063 X .500 1.4375 part of the kit?
Its in the kit; Check the hardware bags. -Jim 40384 Michael Wellenzohn wrote: > >Hello, > >can someone please tell me if the AS3-063 X .500 1.4375 on page 10-17 step 1 is included in the kit? I cant find it anywhere. >Thank you in advance >Michael > >http://www.wellenzohn.net[/url] > >-------- >RV-10 builder >#511 > > >Read this topic online here: > >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=76427#76427 > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Is AS3-063 X .500 1.4375 part of the kit?
Date: Nov 22, 2006
From: "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes(at)qnsi.net>
Try bag 1149 Bobby -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Wellenzohn Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2006 1:26 PM Subject: RV10-List: Is AS3-063 X .500 1.4375 part of the kit? --> Hello, can someone please tell me if the AS3-063 X .500 1.4375 on page 10-17 step 1 is included in the kit? I cant find it anywhere. Thank you in advance Michael http://www.wellenzohn.net[/url] -------- RV-10 builder #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=76427#76427 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rob Hunter" <rwhunter(at)integra.net>
Subject: Is AS3-063 X .500 1.4375 part of the kit?
Date: Nov 22, 2006
Michael, Is it in the bundle of aluminum that they gave you. I guessing you have to cut it to the dimensions indicated in the illustration. I am just a page behind you, so I am not quite there. That would be my guess. I am sure you didn't want a guess though. Rob Hunter 40432 Tailcone -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Wellenzohn Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2006 1:26 PM Subject: RV10-List: Is AS3-063 X .500 1.4375 part of the kit? --> Hello, can someone please tell me if the AS3-063 X .500 1.4375 on page 10-17 step 1 is included in the kit? I cant find it anywhere. Thank you in advance Michael http://www.wellenzohn.net[/url] -------- RV-10 builder #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=76427#76427 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: CDI with GRT EFIS
Date: Nov 23, 2006
From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
G'day all, Have had to review my Panel design so I don't need to modify the forward fuse ribs or locate the EIS on a subpanel. Config includes 3 screen GRT EFIS, GNS430 and SL30. I have opted for the arinc 429 interface on the GRT. Panel design works ok if I do not need a 3.5" hole for a GI-106A. With the enhanced EFIS capabilities using the 429 i/f, do I really need a separate nav head?? Is the EFIS alone acceptable for IFR? cheers, Ron 187 finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net>
Subject: insurance
Date: Nov 22, 2006
I had a quote some time back for $200,000 hull value $1,000,000 flat and it was around $3,600. I'm pushing 2000 hrs Multi Engine, instrument and glider rating. I'm at level 10 of the FAA Wings program. Don't know if any of that helps or not. I also just received a quote from Avemco, who has my plane insured whilst I'm building, and I get the feeling they're not wanting to play in the RV flying crowds play ground. Same type of coverage as above for $6,100. Don't think I'll be a taken that one Gertrude. Wayne Edgerton #40336 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net>
Subject: insurance
Date: Nov 23, 2006
It does build the data base. Thanks. I'll be working on off line email to everyone with a hobbs on how we are doing on gathering interest. Bob K Aircraftmutual.com _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne Edgerton Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2006 8:34 PM Subject: RV10-List: insurance I had a quote some time back for $200,000 hull value $1,000,000 flat and it was around $3,600. I'm pushing 2000 hrs Multi Engine, instrument and glider rating. I'm at level 10 of the FAA Wings program. Don't know if any of that helps or not. I also just received a quote from Avemco, who has my plane insured whilst I'm building, and I get the feeling they're not wanting to play in the RV flying crowds play ground. Same type of coverage as above for $6,100. Don't think I'll be a taken that one Gertrude. Wayne Edgerton #40336 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Happy Thanksgiving
Date: Nov 23, 2006
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
To everyone, the very best of Seasons Greetings and enjoyment of time with your families. John Cox #40600 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 23, 2006
From: Bruce Patton <bpattonsoa(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: insurance
A little input from a RV-6A builder owner. I have about 1,700hours, 430 in the 6A, 30 in Cessna and the rest in high performance gliders. With AOPA through AIG Aviation, just received next years bill. $1,015 for $60,000 hu ll full coverage with $100 deducts, 1 million Liability for $206. Flying t he 6 for about 6 years, the first three years I shopped insurance, AOPA was always the lowest. They shop several insurers. Every couple of years I l ook around for better prices.=0A =0ABruce Patton=0A=0A=0A----- Original Mes sage ----=0AFrom: Wayne Edgerton <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net>=0ATo: rv10-list@ma tronics.com=0ASent: Wednesday, November 22, 2006 8:33:37 PM=0ASubject: RV10 -List: insurance=0A=0A=0AI had a quote some time back for $200,000 hull val ue $1,000,000 flat and it was around $3,600. I'm pushing 2000 hrs Multi Eng ine, instrument and glider rating. I'm at level 10 of the FAA Wings program . Don't know if any of that helps or not. =0A =0AI also just received a quo te from Avemco, who has my plane insured whilst I'm building, and I get the feeling they're not wanting to play in the RV flying crowds play ground. S ame type of coverage as above for $6,100. Don't think I'll be a taken that = the many List utilities such as the Subscriptions =============== ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Is AS3-063 X .500 1.4375 part of the kit?
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <michael(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Nov 23, 2006
Thanks guys, I found it! Michael http://www.wellenzohn.net -------- RV-10 builder #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=76569#76569 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: insurance
Date: Nov 23, 2006
$1,000,000 Liability $130,000 Hull Insurance $2,400 premium with AIG through Nation Air. 13,000+ hours ATP I had the same experience Wayne mentioned with Avemco, quote was at least twice as high as AIG. Premiums seem to be greatly effected by declared hull value. Dick Sipp 40065 still finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 24, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: More Great List Comments - Please Make A Contribution!
Dear Listers, There's a little less than one week left for this year's List Fund Raiser. I thought it would a great time to share a few more of the great comments I've been receiving from Contributors regarding what the Lists mean to them. There are some particularly poignant ones in this batch and I encourage you to have a look at some of them. Don't forget that once you make your Contribution, the Contribution Squelch kicks in and you won't receive any future messages from me regarding the Fund Raiser this year! This holds true for the Realtime and Digest distributions and now also the HTML and TXT links included with the Digest! (Note that for technical reasons, if someone replies to one of my contribution messages, the Squelch will _not_ be activated, and you will still receive it. Contribution messages will also still be found on the Forums site and the List Browse). Please make your Contribution today to support these List services! Pick up a great Gift too! http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ============================= WLAS #2 ============================ Tackling my project without the List would be like building on a deserted island. The List has made me part of a learning (and laughing) community. -Larry W Thank you for providing such a fantastic resource for us Kolbers. I'm very happy to contribute towards keeping such a wonderful resource available. -Geoff T ..you do a great service for the flying community by providing this service. -John L ..solidly administered. -James C A great source of information. -Ralph S The Lists have likely saved a numbers of lives... -James F ..exceptional user service. -Larry W Better than a magazine! -Aaron G Thanks to your List I will be able to finish and fly my project. Without the help of the great people on your List I doubt it would have happened. -Ed G I learn something on a too regular basis thanks to these lists! -Ralph C ..valuable service. -John F ..a well administered service. -Stewart C Great forum! -Ronald C A great service! -Andy H Been reading the lists since my first RV in 1999. Good work and as necessary to me as a rivet. -Albert G The lists are a great help. -Gary S This resource has been critical to my building success so far. -Timothy F Great system and support! -Richard P Very helpful in the building my CH 701. -Ralph S Another year of entertainment and pleasure! -Larry B A great resource for all of us. -Larry W Another year of great service! Once again, the information is worth more than I can ever contribute. Thank you also for the "community" that the List fosters. I cannot tell you the number of times that seeing an friend's name come up has caused so many awesome memories to come flooding back - along with the eager desire to gather with these great guys again. I love hearing the beginner's enthusiasm, the builder's progress, and the flyer's success... -Robert B Our list has great info and I love reading the "Flame Posts! " -Stephen M Great service! -James B Excellent source of information. -David P You provide a very valuable service to the aviation community. -David H The RV related lists have been a tremendous help in the construction of my RV-7... -Norman R Awesome list!! -John E Great bunch of guys and very knowledgeable! -Herbert G Thank you for making it so easy to stay in touch with my fellow RV-10 builders. -David J I love the list and have been a reader for a long time. -James V Continues to be a great service! -George A Awesome List server. -Deke M Many of us would never finish our airplanes without [the List]. With it, I'm getting close! -Ronald C An excellent source of both information and inspiration! -William R Forums and format are easy to use. -Jack B Great help with my kit building. -Ralph H Super service. -Richard N Still loving it. -Jared S You have a fantastic web! -Harvey R ..a great service. -James M Glad you are there... -David A I get some great information on your list. -John P Fantastic service. Couldn't have made it as far as I have without it. -Stephen T A great learning experience with my RV-6A. -Ron B Great resources! -Jason H Well done. Very valuable. -Jeffrey D Great resource for the experimental aircraft community. -Chris H This List has been one of the most helpful tools in building my RV-10, since I build alone, and do not have any help readily available. Without the List, I could not have embarked on building my RV-10. -Jim H You run a great list there. -James H Really like the Kolb List. -Don W ============================= WLAS #2 ============================ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: cabin locks
Date: Nov 24, 2006
Anyone putting keyed locks on the main doors? any pictures of the inside mechanism? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: cabin locks
Date: Nov 24, 2006
I=92ve been working on kitting up an install using these billet flush handles. I need a week or two more to finish up but I=92ll post some pics of the handle now and follow up later with some install pics=85 Steve 40205 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill Sent: Friday, November 24, 2006 10:39 PM Subject: RV10-List: cabin locks Anyone putting keyed locks on the main doors? any pictures of the inside mechanism? "http://www.aeroelectric.com"www.aeroelectric.com "http://www.buildersbooks.com"www.buildersbooks.com "http://www.kitlog.com"www.kitlog.com "http://www.homebuilthelp.com"www.homebuilthelp.com "http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribut ion "http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Na vig ator?RV10-List 11/24/2006 -- 11/24/2006 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 25, 2006
From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: cabin locks
Dave, Look at Tim Lewis' guide on using two key locks like those used on the baggage door. <http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6/doorlock/door_lock.html> Larry Rosen David McNeill wrote: > Anyone putting keyed locks on the main doors? any pictures of the > inside mechanism? > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Wing leading edge questions
From: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com>
Date: Nov 25, 2006
I am getting ready to start the leading edges of my wings and plunk down some more money for accessories. I intend on purchasing the Gretz 1000 heated pitot, the Duckworks HID landing lights, and the AFS AOA. After reviewing the archives several of you had said that you were putting the light and the AOA on the last bay. Any feedback on how that worked out as far as space and ease of maintenace for the future? I was also looking at simply closing the stall horn holes and not installing it, as others have done. Does any body flying think that is something I should still install? Finally any other tips or gotchas out there. I have been all over Tim's and Deems's sites...pretty much live on those, and Mike Howe's also. Thanks for your feedback. Eric Kallio #40518 SB wings Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=76864#76864 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 25, 2006
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Wing leading edge questions
Eric, FWIW If I were doing it over I would move the Gretz mount 1 bay/rib closer to an access panel/hole than where I mounted it. Deems Davis # 406 Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/ Eric_Kallio wrote: > >I am getting ready to start the leading edges of my wings and plunk down some more money for accessories. I intend on purchasing the Gretz 1000 heated pitot, the Duckworks HID landing lights, and the AFS AOA. After reviewing the archives several of you had said that you were putting the light and the AOA on the last bay. Any feedback on how that worked out as far as space and ease of maintenace for the future? I was also looking at simply closing the stall horn holes and not installing it, as others have done. Does any body flying think that is something I should still install? Finally any other tips or gotchas out there. I have been all over Tim's and Deems's sites...pretty much live on those, and Mike Howe's also. Thanks for your feedback. > >Eric Kallio >#40518 SB wings > > >Read this topic online here: > >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=76864#76864 > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GenGrumpy(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 25, 2006
Subject: RV-10 cabin door locks
I used the same type of locks on my doors as Tim Olsen did, except I did not put the lock into the door latch mechanism like Tim did. I simply mounted the lock separately in the bottom of the door with the lock's arm swinging down into a cut out in the door frame rail, very similar to the baggage door lock assy. Seems to work great so far. grumpy #40404 33 hrs towards the 40 hr flyoff!! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sean Blair" <seanblair(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: FW: torn rib
Date: Nov 25, 2006
While installing one of the side-steps, I got a little too aggressive and managed to produce a small tear from the upper relief downward about 5/8 of an inch on the baggage rib. I drilled a stop, but wonder if I need to do something more. Any advice on this one? Picture is attached. Thanks once again. Sean Blair #40225 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "KiloPapa" <kilopapa(at)antelecom.net>
Subject: Re: Slime HS
Date: Nov 25, 2006
Mark, Thanks for the reply. Why did you decide to change the adhesive you used on the front windscreen? Did the Hysol seem to bond well? Now that you have used both which do you prefer, ie, application, cleanup, etc? Thanks, Kevin 40494 tail/empennage ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Ritter" <mritter509(at)msn.com> Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2006 3:57 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Slime HS > > Kevin, > > The number on the Hysol glue I used to put in the front windscreen (first > time around) was 6339. Recently I replaced the front window and used the > Weld 10 glue. Both seem fairly easy to work with but the front window > removal was not a real pain with the Hysol glue - hope I don'y have to > find out on the Weld 10. > > Mark (N410MR in paint shop) > > >>From: "KiloPapa" <kilopapa(at)antelecom.net> >>Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>To: >>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Slime HS >>Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2006 10:31:27 -0800 >> >> >>Mark, >> >>Which Hysol adhesive did you use? >> >>Thanks, >> >>Kevin >>40494 >>tail/empennage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jae Chang" <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com>
Subject: Wing leading edge questions
Date: Nov 26, 2006
Hi Eric... I finished my leading edges not that long ago. Instead of ordering/installing any of the accessories, I left the outer rib clecoed, so I could order and install accessories some time later. With the stall warning gizmo, I had not even considered not installing it, since it's such a useful thing to have. Are people just forgoing the mechnical stall indicator, for the AOA, or replacing it with something better? Jae -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric_Kallio Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2006 7:34 AM Subject: RV10-List: Wing leading edge questions I am getting ready to start the leading edges of my wings and plunk down some more money for accessories. I intend on purchasing the Gretz 1000 heated pitot, the Duckworks HID landing lights, and the AFS AOA. After reviewing the archives several of you had said that you were putting the light and the AOA on the last bay. Any feedback on how that worked out as far as space and ease of maintenace for the future? I was also looking at simply closing the stall horn holes and not installing it, as others have done. Does any body flying think that is something I should still install? Finally any other tips or gotchas out there. I have been all over Tim's and Deems's sites...pretty much live on those, and Mike Howe's also. Thanks for your feedback. Eric Kallio #40518 SB wings Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=76864#76864 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Weight of the IO-540?
Date: Nov 26, 2006
Can anyone give me a rough estimate of what their IO-540 and the aluminum propeller weight is? Just trying to do some planning estimates. Thanks JOhn G. 409, Thinking about electrons ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 2006
From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: 2 Tailcone Questions: F-1012B came unpunched, small tear in
F-1010 During initial assembly of tailcone, I noticed that F-1012B was not pre-punched for the skin. The plans shows both A & B as pre-punched. It will be very easy to match drill the bulkhead using the skin punches and relying on the A bulkhead for alignment. But I am curious whether others have encountered the same thing. I also noticed a very small tear in the thin flange around the central hole in bulkhead F-1010. It appears to have resulted from the forming of the flange. It would seem to be subject to enlarging if the area is stressed. Would a stop hole be called for? Or grinding the tear out? Or a new part? I will be going to Vans with this. Link to photos of tear: http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=0&log=23464&row=4 Bill Watson "MauleDriver" The QB Fuse and Wing arrived last week (9 weeks early) - here we Gooooooo! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 2006
From: Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: 2 Tailcone Questions: F-1012B came unpunched, small tear
in F-1010 Bill, The 1010 flange has been an issue since the beginning, I didn't have it but I know many others did. Some opted to buff it out and if I recall, were told it was OK by Van's to do that, other sent it back and recieved a replacment part. Personally for that small of a crack I would buff it back and smooth it out but I don't want to lead you astray, or what I mean is incur the "wrath" of the flame throwers....We had a joke a while back about the "Golden Rivet" this was the rivet that if not properly installed and it failed would result in a "zipper effect" of all rivets coming loose and you and your aircraft fluttering to the ground....oops...did I say flutter? scratch that...I meant flaying to the ground. As for the 1012B, I believe mine was punched but that was kit #185. After seeing how Van's fabricaes the parts is strange that the holes were missed, I watched the machine make a few parts and it did holes cutting and then the part was stacked for stamping.....but the cutting and the holes were on the same process....don't know what to tell you except is easy enough to matchdrill it in assembly. Rick S. 40185 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Low Left Door Problem
From: "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net>
Date: Nov 26, 2006
OK. I'm guessing here. But I think Vans has a problem with the mold of the left door/cabin interface. I read about the many builders (who have websites) who have there left door sit low and subsequently needed to shim it to bring it up to meet the top of the cabin. Maybe a coincidence? Mine had the same thing. LLD (Low Left Door)! Had to shim. Right side fit perfectly with no shims. Also, there's something else going on with the attachment of the gas struts. I had to redo my left door gas strut bracket on the cabin because the gas strut hit the door when closed. Built per plans. Damn. I wish Vans would fix this so others don't have the same problem. Zack -------- RV8 #80125 RV10 # 40512 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=77152#77152 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sean Blair" <seanblair(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: wheel bearings
Date: Nov 26, 2006
I started putting the wheels together today. It appears the bearings have been pre-greased and are ready to go. Does everyone agree, or did you have to use more grease? If so..recommendations? Thanks, Sean Blair #40225 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Flowscan installation
Date: Nov 27, 2006
From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
G'day all, I am installing the flowscan sender at the moment. The sender mount holes appear to be sized for an AN4 bolt, while the fuselage attach bracket has nutplates for AN3. What's the go here - remove the mount and install nutplates for AN4, or insert a bushing into the sender? I received zero documentation from GRT on the floscan - is this normal? cheers, Ron 187 finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris , Susie Darcy" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Re: Low Left Door Problem
Date: Nov 27, 2006
Zack I had no problem on either door with my finishing kit about a year old. I think maybe some people might not be putting the bracket on the canopy top far enough inboard??? Not sure otherwise regards Chris 388 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 27, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: List of Contributors Coming Soon - Make Sure You're Listed!
Dear Listers, The List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner! On December 1st I post a list of everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation for the Lists. As a number of people have pointed out in their Contribution comments, the List seems at least as valuable of a building/flying/recreating tool as a typical your magazine subscription! And how interactive is a magazine, after all? :-) Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming LOC? Tell others that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is fast and easy using your Visa, MasterCard, or Paypal account: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, by droping a personal check in the mail to: Matronics / Matt Dralle PO Box 347 Livermore CA 94551-0347 USA (Please include your email address on the check!) I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus far during this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps these Lists running and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about how the Lists have helped you! Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris , Susie Darcy" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Re: wheel bearings
Date: Nov 27, 2006
Main wheels looked greased to me but not the training wheel! Chris 388 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: insurance
Date: Nov 27, 2006
In July 2006 I insured with NationAir (underwritten by AIG). $3710.00 for $200,000 hull coverage. I am a 1500+ PVT INST rated pilot with in excess of 300 hours RV-6A time and in excess of 1000+ High Performance time. I hope Bob and Rick get their mutual insurance pool set up and going before my renewal next year. Russ Daves N710RV 75 hours and counting ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 27, 2006
From: Link McGarity <wv4i(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: 2 Tailcone Questions: F-1012B came unpunched, small tear
in F-1010 F1010 appears okay. F1012B flange NOT pre drilled/punched. Link McGarity #622 tailcone ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 27, 2006
From: Maule Driver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: 2 Tailcone Questions: F-1012B came unpunched, small tear
in F-1010 Thanks for taking the time to give me the big pic. I did go in and read the archives - that helps. Bill Watson - gotta prime! John W. Cox wrote: > >This subject was extensively posted when John Hilger received not one >but three defectively formed items in a row. They (the responses) should >all be in the archive. The posts at that time was "forgetaboutit", sand >it, stop drill it or do the correct action. > >Require that the defective part is replaced with one which is correctly >formed. Vans is great at that. You are the QC on all components >installed. > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 27, 2006
From: Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: wheel bearings
Sean, My mains were greased but I repacked them just cuz...peace of mind I guess. The nose wheel was not packed at all. Rick S. 40185 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV-10 cabin door locks
Date: Nov 27, 2006
From: "Tom Deutsch" <deutscht(at)rhwhotels.com>
Grump, could you take a photo of your door lock install and post? Tom Deutsch, #40545 finishing ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of GenGrumpy(at)aol.com Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2006 12:14 PM Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 cabin door locks I used the same type of locks on my doors as Tim Olsen did, except I did not put the lock into the door latch mechanism like Tim did. I simply mounted the lock separately in the bottom of the door with the lock's arm swinging down into a cut out in the door frame rail, very similar to the baggage door lock assy. Seems to work great so far. grumpy #40404 33 hrs towards the 40 hr flyoff!! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Douglas" <bsponcil(at)belinblank.org>
Subject: Re: 2 Tailcone Questions: F-1012B came unpunched, small tear
in F-1010
Date: Nov 27, 2006
I have the same problem on both counts. I ground/buffed the crack out of the F-1010 this weekend but have decided that all rationality aside, it's going to drive me crazy to install it like that so I'm just going to pay to have a new one shipped. What's another $30 right? -Brian #40497 Iowa City, IA ----- Original Message ----- From: "MauleDriver" <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 7:12 PM Subject: RV10-List: 2 Tailcone Questions: F-1012B came unpunched, small tear in F-1010 > > During initial assembly of tailcone, I noticed that F-1012B was not > pre-punched for the skin. The plans shows both A & B as pre-punched. It > will be very easy to match drill the bulkhead using the skin punches and > relying on the A bulkhead for alignment. But I am curious whether others > have encountered the same thing. > > I also noticed a very small tear in the thin flange around the central > hole in bulkhead F-1010. It appears to have resulted from the forming of > the flange. It would seem to be subject to enlarging if the area is > stressed. Would a stop hole be called for? Or grinding the tear out? Or > a new part? I will be going to Vans with this. > > Link to photos of tear: > http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=0&log=23464&row=4 > > Bill Watson "MauleDriver" > The QB Fuse and Wing arrived last week (9 weeks early) - here we Gooooooo! > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com>
Subject: Re: Jack Stand
Date: Nov 27, 2006
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Date: Nov 27, 2006
From: Niko <owl40188(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Seatbelts
I am getting ready to order my seatbelts from Hooker Harness and I was wond ering what everyone else has been ordering. The standard sport belts or th e airline style ones. Any recommendations?=0A=0Athanks=0ANiko=0A40188 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com>
Subject: Re: Jack Stand
Date: Nov 27, 2006
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Wing leading edge questions
Date: Nov 27, 2006
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
The AoA's are generally much better at showing stall information (when was the last time you saw a jet with a stall tab). Because I am going with the AoA Pro, I for one didn't see the point of putting the old mechanical tab out there. Michael Sausen -10 #352 Fuselage -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jae Chang Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 7:57 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Wing leading edge questions --> Hi Eric... I finished my leading edges not that long ago. Instead of ordering/installing any of the accessories, I left the outer rib clecoed, so I could order and install accessories some time later. With the stall warning gizmo, I had not even considered not installing it, since it's such a useful thing to have. Are people just forgoing the mechnical stall indicator, for the AOA, or replacing it with something better? Jae -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric_Kallio Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2006 7:34 AM Subject: RV10-List: Wing leading edge questions I am getting ready to start the leading edges of my wings and plunk down some more money for accessories. I intend on purchasing the Gretz 1000 heated pitot, the Duckworks HID landing lights, and the AFS AOA. After reviewing the archives several of you had said that you were putting the light and the AOA on the last bay. Any feedback on how that worked out as far as space and ease of maintenace for the future? I was also looking at simply closing the stall horn holes and not installing it, as others have done. Does any body flying think that is something I should still install? Finally any other tips or gotchas out there. I have been all over Tim's and Deems's sites...pretty much live on those, and Mike Howe's also. Thanks for your feedback. Eric Kallio #40518 SB wings Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=76864#76864 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: transponder antenna placement
Date: Nov 27, 2006
From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com>
Hey all - I was perusing the archives looking for info on the transponder antenna placement, and I ran across mentions of microwaves cooking private parts. Really? Come on... really? I'm looking at spots to mount the antenna, and under the pilot / copilot seats seems like the best bet for me. The tunnel is out, because I made a false floor that goes from the firewall to the spar and I don't want any penetrations there. I was thinking the transponder antenna under the copilot and the avidyne/ryan traffic antenna under the pilot seat. I've already got comms under the rear passenger seats, and navs in the wingtips. Is the transponder really going to do a number on me or my copilot under the seats? Inquiring minds want to know... cj #40410 fuse www.perfectlygoodairplane.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com>
Subject: Re: Jack Stand
Date: Nov 27, 2006
On the -9A I use an ATV/Motorcycle jack that I bought at Harbor Freight. I made a wooden "truss" to take up the space between the jack and the plane. By placing it directly under the main spar I can lift the entire plane with just a pump of the lever. I normally only raise it about an inch or so. http://www.my9a.com/img/flying/fairings/f18.jpg Regards, Mike Schipper RV-10 #40576 - Wings www.rvten.com From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list- server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 7:41 AM Subject: RV10-List: Jack Stand Has anybody come up with a good way to jack up the mains on the -10 without taking the axle nut off and using something like Avery sells? For most cases that works fine, but it would be nice to have another good way to do it. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 27, 2006
From: Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: transponder antenna placement
Chris, I have heard both....that it is harmful microwave energy from William Curtis who's electronic knowledge I trust and that it's bunk. I mounted mine on the bottom right side between the battery and the right sidewall behind the baggage bulkhead. It's outta the way, it is a long coax run but at least it's not near the nads, rumor or not ;) Rick S. 40185 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: Jack Stand
Date: Nov 27, 2006
Thanks for all the input. I hope this has helped others as well. I talked to Van=92s and they confirmed that the tie-down support is the preferred place to jack from, so we will do something like Tim has done. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse(at)itecusa.org"jesse(at)itecusa.org HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Schipper Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 1:46 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Jack Stand On the -9A I use an ATV/Motorcycle jack that I bought at Harbor Freight. I made a wooden "truss" to take up the space between the jack and the plane. By placing it directly under the main spar I can lift the entire plane with just a pump of the lever. I normally only raise it about an inch or so. HYPERLINK "http://www.my9a.com/img/flying/fairings/f18.jpg"http://www.my9a.com/img/ fly ing/fairings/f18.jpg Regards, Mike Schipper RV-10 #40576 - Wings www.rvten.com From: HYPERLINK "mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com"owner-rv10-list-server@matro nic s.com [HYPERLINK "mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com"mailto:owner-rv10-list-serve r@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 7:41 AM Subject: RV10-List: Jack Stand Has anybody come up with a good way to jack up the mains on the -10 without taking the axle nut off and using something like Avery sells? For most cases that works fine, but it would be nice to have another good way to do it. "http://www.aeroelectric.com"www.aeroelectric.com "http://www.buildersbooks.com"www.buildersbooks.com "http://www.kitlog.com"www.kitlog.com "http://www.homebuilthelp.com"www.homebuilthelp.com "http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribut ion "http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Na vig ator?RV10-List 11/27/2006 4:00 AM -- 11/27/2006 4:00 AM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 27, 2006
From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: 2 Tailcone Questions: F-1012B came unpunched, small tear
in F-1010 Not sure I follow the thinking here. Removing the visible tear simply removes the tear which could represent a focal point for local stresses. It is the most likely place for any stresses to manifest themselves in further tearing. Without the tear, I'm thinking there is no focal point and no tear to propogate. Whatever stresses exist in the piece remain. Just because there isn't a tear in a replacement part doesn't mean there isn't the same set of stresses in the part. They just didn't result in a tear. If you are saying that the tear induces stress and the metal remembers, I guess I don't understand that. In any case, the tear needs to be removed or possibly stop drilled. But doing either compromises the original intended strength of the piece so I agree it should be replaced. Bill Watson John W. Cox wrote: > > Removing the obvious (the visible crack) does not remove the adjacent > induced stress which is yet to propagate. Many who have stop drilled > learn that lesson with time on their airframe after a perceived patch > was signed off. You are only cheating the inevitable. Metal has memory, > it does not forget. You are not going to fool it into long term > submission. We resort to Eddy Current and Ultrasonic more often that > people know with our air carrier aircraft. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: transponder antenna placement
From: "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Date: Nov 27, 2006
Chris, Below is from an exchange on this subject on the AeroElectric list - short version is that there isn't an issue. Bob ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: #10129 Date: Mar 10, 2003 From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: defending the "familiy jewels" . . . > >A transponder antenna that close to your passengers "private parts" >might not be the best thing to do. The radiation may do some damage. > >Rino A hangar myth. Folks have looked at the peak output power rating of a transponder (100 to 250W) and tried to make a connection between a desire to make one's airplane visible to a distant radar receiver and cooking meat. When you buy a microwave, it too is rated in the hundreds of watts . . . but CONTINUOUS duty. A good 700W microwave will boil a cup of water in about 2 minutes. (Remember the traveler's immersion heaters in the hardware store? They're 300W heaters and take about 4 minutes to boil a cup of water). If you measure the current draw of this machine, it will be on the order of 8-9 amps or 1000W total input. Your transponder draws about 1.5 amps while being interrogated for a total input power of 18W. The output comes in the form of a series of 0.5 uSec pulses in respond to an interrogation that represent a string of binary numbers representing either your squawk code (mode A) or altitude (mode C). Assuming you are interrogated once per second (quite often) your average output power for a 250W transponder is on the order of 250W x 20 pulses x 0.0000005 seconds/1 second or 2.5 milliwatts per second. This isn't going even going to warm up much less cook anything. Another fallacy of the myth concerns body parts most sensitive to microwave radiation . . . turns out that your eyes are the most vulnerable . . . but the story isn't nearly so interesting to really macho pilots. None the less, there are folks who have armor-shielded their seat bottoms in deference to this myth. The story was REALLY popular about 15 years ago in the heyday of the Long-Ezs Here's a post I did on a canard pusher list server about 5 years ago: > Location away from the pilot/co-pilot is also >recommended but over ten feet requires a different cable. Yes?? I was >thinking about locating it aft of the pilot in the baggage area. Is that >distance safe? A totally bogus recommendation. A few years back, someone observed that their transponder was rated for 200 watts output . . . 1/3rd that of the family microwave. Our hero was immediately concerned for preservation of the family jewels and proceeded to line the bottom of his composite seat pan with aluminum foil. What he failed to understand was that his RF coffee warmer and popcorn popper was rated in continuous watts while the transponder was in peak watts. The average power output from a transponder is less than 1 watt . . . BTW, the eyes are about 100 times more sensitive to the effects of microwave heating than are any deep organs . . . you'll go blind you quit making babies. Bob . . . Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=77381#77381 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: transponder antenna placement
Date: Nov 27, 2006
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
This goes along with the original scientific studies used in 1983, when cell phones were first sold that said everyone was going to get brain tumors on the side closest the antenna on your hand-held. I think it led to a lot of brain dead teenagers but no tumorous growths in their adult life - yet. However, there are a lot of EA-6B Naval Aviators that swear their love life was curtailed by the errant electrons bouncing off the gold electroplated canopies from all that jamming they did for Uncle Sammy. Rick I would think the Air Force used similar stories on the girls in your day. Just don't forget about Blue Nads from those forward NACA ducts. John Cox 40600 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 10:53 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: transponder antenna placement Chris, I have heard both....that it is harmful microwave energy from William Curtis who's electronic knowledge I trust and that it's bunk. I mounted mine on the bottom right side between the battery and the right sidewall behind the baggage bulkhead. It's outta the way, it is a long coax run but at least it's not near the nads, rumor or not ;) Rick S. 40185 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 27, 2006
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Jack Stand
I don't know if the -10 uses standard threaded tie-down anchors or not, but Mooney and I believe some other aircraft have threaded jackpoints that are installed in place of the tie-down rings whenever jacking is necessary. The underside of the jackpoint is milled conical so that it mates right up with a standard aircraft jack, while allowing relative freedom to pivot on the point while leveling or just jacking one side. On 11/27/06, Jesse Saint wrote: > > > Thanks for all the input. I hope this has helped others as well. I talked > to Van's and they confirmed that the tie-down support is the preferred place > to jack from, so we will do something like Tim has done. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: transponder antenna placement
Date: Nov 27, 2006
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Sounds like a good episode of Mythbusters. Adam can put his nads in a microwave and Jamie can sit on a transponder antenna while being regularly interrogated or pushing ident. ROFLMAO! Seriously though, I don't think anyone has ever done a serious study on this. In reality any potential health issues are probably pretty small. You probably get more rads from the solar radiation at 15,000 feet than from the transponder. I still wouldn't put it right under my seat though. The biggest issue in placement is keeping the antenna lead as short as possible. Michael Sausen -10 #352 fuselage -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bcondrey Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 1:30 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: transponder antenna placement Chris, Below is from an exchange on this subject on the AeroElectric list - short version is that there isn't an issue. Bob ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ----- Message: #10129 Date: Mar 10, 2003 From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: defending the "familiy jewels" . . . > >A transponder antenna that close to your passengers "private parts" >might not be the best thing to do. The radiation may do some damage. > >Rino A hangar myth. Folks have looked at the peak output power rating of a transponder (100 to 250W) and tried to make a connection between a desire to make one's airplane visible to a distant radar receiver and cooking meat. When you buy a microwave, it too is rated in the hundreds of watts . . . but CONTINUOUS duty. A good 700W microwave will boil a cup of water in about 2 minutes. (Remember the traveler's immersion heaters in the hardware store? They're 300W heaters and take about 4 minutes to boil a cup of water). If you measure the current draw of this machine, it will be on the order of 8-9 amps or 1000W total input. Your transponder draws about 1.5 amps while being interrogated for a total input power of 18W. The output comes in the form of a series of 0.5 uSec pulses in respond to an interrogation that represent a string of binary numbers representing either your squawk code (mode A) or altitude (mode C). Assuming you are interrogated once per second (quite often) your average output power for a 250W transponder is on the order of 250W x 20 pulses x 0.0000005 seconds/1 second or 2.5 milliwatts per second. This isn't going even going to warm up much less cook anything. Another fallacy of the myth concerns body parts most sensitive to microwave radiation . . . turns out that your eyes are the most vulnerable . . . but the story isn't nearly so interesting to really macho pilots. None the less, there are folks who have armor-shielded their seat bottoms in deference to this myth. The story was REALLY popular about 15 years ago in the heyday of the Long-Ezs Here's a post I did on a canard pusher list server about 5 years ago: > Location away from the pilot/co-pilot is also >recommended but over ten feet requires a different cable. Yes?? I was >thinking about locating it aft of the pilot in the baggage area. Is that >distance safe? A totally bogus recommendation. A few years back, someone observed that their transponder was rated for 200 watts output . . . 1/3rd that of the family microwave. Our hero was immediately concerned for preservation of the family jewels and proceeded to line the bottom of his composite seat pan with aluminum foil. What he failed to understand was that his RF coffee warmer and popcorn popper was rated in continuous watts while the transponder was in peak watts. The average power output from a transponder is less than 1 watt . . . BTW, the eyes are about 100 times more sensitive to the effects of microwave heating than are any deep organs . . . you'll go blind you quit making babies. Bob . . . Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=77381#77381 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 27, 2006
From: Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: transponder antenna placement
The antenna placement recommendations from Garmin are: 1. place antenna 3 feet (physical measurement) from transponder unit 2. cable no longer than 8.8 feet of RG-400 (to handle the high power) 3. 30 inches (physical measurement) from any com antenna 4. Try to maximize distance from landing gear leg when placing under the seat to minimize holes in pattern. Mine is too close but it works correctly. Bill DeRouchey billderou(at)yahoo.com Flying with a few pit stops "John W. Cox" wrote: This goes along with the original scientific studies used in 1983, when cell phones were first sold that said everyone was going to get brain tumors on the side closest the antenna on your hand-held. I think it led to a lot of brain dead teenagers but no tumorous growths in their adult life - yet. However, there are a lot of EA-6B Naval Aviators that swear their love life was curtailed by the errant electrons bouncing off the gold electroplated canopies from all that jamming they did for Uncle Sammy. Rick I would think the Air Force used similar stories on the girls in your day. Just don't forget about Blue Nads from those forward NACA ducts. John Cox 40600 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 10:53 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: transponder antenna placement Chris, I have heard both....that it is harmful microwave energy from William Curtis who's electronic knowledge I trust and that it's bunk. I mounted mine on the bottom right side between the battery and the right sidewall behind the baggage bulkhead. It's outta the way, it is a long coax run but at least it's not near the nads, rumor or not ;) Rick S. 40185 --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 27, 2006
From: ivo welch <ivowel(at)gmail.com>


November 13, 2006 - November 28, 2006

RV10-Archive.digest.vol-bt