RV10-Archive.digest.vol-cr
October 20, 2007 - October 29, 2007
> Ron
> 187 finishing
>
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________________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jay Rowe" <jfrjr(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Camlocks question |
Just installed camlocks on both the firewall as well as the cowling
sides. Fairly easy installation and with good directions. But I
installed everything prior to priming/painting so how do I get the
grommets off the cowling skins when I am ready to paint? Those grommets
are held on with a small retention washer that is installed with a
special tool (supplied with the kit). Is there another tool to remove
the washer or do you sacrifice the washer each time you have to remove
the grommett? Thanks for the help. Jay Rowe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Camlocks question |
If you are talking about the push nut, it is sacrificial. Push on, pry off..
-Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: "Jay Rowe" <jfrjr(at)adelphia.net>
Sent: 10/20/07 7:27 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Camlocks question
Just installed camlocks on both the firewall as well as the cowling sides. Fairly
easy installation and with good directions. But I installed everything prior
to priming/painting so how do I get the grommets off the cowling skins when
I am ready to paint? Those grommets are held on with a small retention washer
that is installed with a special tool (supplied with the kit). Is there another
tool to remove the washer or do you sacrifice the washer each time you have
to remove the grommett? Thanks for the help. Jay Rowe
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Autopilot functions |
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
I am trying to select an appropriate autopilot for what I want to do with it. I
will be using a G530W and an SL30 Nav/Com as some of my avionics, as well as
the new high res GRT EFIS. With these components driving the autopilot is it possible
to fly a coupled VOR/ILS/LOC approach using a Digiflight II VGSV or do
I need to get one of the higher level autopilots to fly coupled Navaid based
approaches? Not sure how to interpret what I see on tru-track's website and I
haven't been able to call due to a very busy work schedule so I will defer to
the experience and knowledge of the group.
Eric Kallio
40518 Baggage door and panel bewilderment
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140874#140874
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle cable lengths with throttle quad option |
Gary,
Check with Tony or Eric at Accuracy. I know they have done panels with the Quad
and can hook you up with the lenghts or tell you who to call. I think Scott Schmidt's
is a good starting place.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com>
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2007 7:43:18 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Throttle cable lengths with throttle quad option
I am planning on the throttle quadrant and the Accuracy Avionics center console.
Is anyone else going this combination and already hooked up their engine cables?
I am approaching time to order the FF kit and would like to custom order the cables
if I need to add a couple inches to each one to make them fit correctly.
There has been some discussion about lengths due to alternate routing but I don't
remember anything including the AA center console.
Gary Blankenbiller
40674
KF29
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140838#140838
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Autopilot functions |
Eric,
I have the Digiflight II VGSV along with a Garmin 480, SL-30 along with
the GRT Dual EFIS. The system works great on all types of approaches -
VOR/ILS/GPS. My opinion is your setup will be the most bang for the buck.
I have the 480 driving the EFIS which then drives the autopilot. You can
also drive the autopilot directly from the 480 and it was recommended to me
to have a switch to select between the sources which I haven't tried yet.
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric_Kallio
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2007 9:28 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Autopilot functions
I am trying to select an appropriate autopilot for what I want to do with
it. I will be using a G530W and an SL30 Nav/Com as some of my avionics, as
well as the new high res GRT EFIS. With these components driving the
autopilot is it possible to fly a coupled VOR/ILS/LOC approach using a
Digiflight II VGSV or do I need to get one of the higher level autopilots to
fly coupled Navaid based approaches? Not sure how to interpret what I see on
tru-track's website and I haven't been able to call due to a very busy work
schedule so I will defer to the experience and knowledge of the group.
Eric Kallio
40518 Baggage door and panel bewilderment
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140874#140874
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Throttle cable lengths with throttle quad option |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
ricksked(at)embarqmail.co wrote:
> Gary,
>
> Check with Tony or Eric at Accuracy. I know they have done panels with the Quad
and can hook you up with the lenghts or tell you who to call. I think Scott
Schmidt's is a good starting place.
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
> ---
Already talked to Tony about the lengths several times. He is unsure of the exact
lengths needed. Said that the stock lengths might work but he said to ask
around.
They have my console and overhead already boxed but missed UPS's Friday pickup
so I will have mine about this next Friday.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Fuselage SB
(N410GB reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140956#140956
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | RV10s to Copperstate |
Any 10s planning to make Copperstate?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV10s to Copperstate |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
David, what about yours? Will be there Saturday to see all who come.
John
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2007 10:44 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV10s to Copperstate
Any 10s planning to make Copperstate?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | RV10s to Copperstate |
Not quite. Fuselage still sitting in garage. FF done except now doing
cowling and wheelpants. Will drag to airport in November and install wings
and tail in December. Will get serious in January with first flight about
January 45?
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 9:18 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV10s to Copperstate
David, what about yours? Will be there Saturday to see all who come.
John
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2007 10:44 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV10s to Copperstate
Any 10s planning to make Copperstate?
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
<http://forums.matronics.com> http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Another 10 gets paint |
After 200 hours and 1 year of flying my RV-10, I finally got around to
taking it to the paint shop. I took it to Bobby Potts in Tuscaloosa, AL
(conveniently only an hour drive away) and he did a great job. I painted my
first few projects myself and decided I wasn't up to the task and wanted it
to finally get done.
Flightline Interiors setup should be to me in late Dec and then I can
finally call it finished, for awhile anyway ;)
Reduced size pictures are (hopefully) attached.
If anyone would like contact info for Bobby just let me know. He was great
to work with. He is pretty busy though so plenty of lead time is good.
There may be additional reports on him at Vansairforce.net
Marcus
40286
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David C. Watterson" <dcw(at)dddirectories.com> |
| Subject: | Looking to buy a RV 10 |
I have found a RV 10 I like. I have spoken to the owner multiple times,
reviewed data looked at pictures etc...I am prepared to take it to the
next step and get a prepurchase inspection. The plane is in the south.
Does anyone know of a quality and RV 10 knowledgeable inspector.
I appreciate any help available.
David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Looking to buy a RV 10 |
John Cox would always be a good choice. Either way I would make sure they
are knowledgeable in RV construction and are preferably an A&P. Where in t
he south and who is the builder?
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of David C. Watterson
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 5:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Looking to buy a RV 10
I have found a RV 10 I like. I have spoken to the owner multiple times, rev
iewed data looked at pictures etc...I am prepared to take it to the next st
ep and get a prepurchase inspection. The plane is in the south. Does anyone
know of a quality and RV 10 knowledgeable inspector.
I appreciate any help available.
David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking to buy a RV 10 |
I am not an "Inspector" but an EAA Tech Advisor and have built my
10. Depending on the location, I might be able to help you if my
qualifications are good enough for you.
Rob.
On Oct 21, 2007, at 6:40 PM, David C. Watterson wrote:
> I have found a RV 10 I like. I have spoken to the owner multiple
> times, reviewed data looked at pictures etc...I am prepared to take
> it to the next step and get a prepurchase inspection. The plane is
> in the south. Does anyone know of a quality and RV 10 knowledgeable
> inspector.
>
> I appreciate any help available.
>
> David
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David C. Watterson" <dcw(at)dddirectories.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking to buy a RV 10 |
Alabama. The plane is owned by Jeff Dennis and built by Jeff and a
AP/builder by the name of Steve ?.
Who and where is John Cox?
David
----- Original Message -----
From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 5:55 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Looking to buy a RV 10
John Cox would always be a good choice. Either way I would make sure
they are knowledgeable in RV construction and are preferably an A&P.
Where in the south and who is the builder?
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David C.
Watterson
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 5:41 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Looking to buy a RV 10
I have found a RV 10 I like. I have spoken to the owner multiple
times, reviewed data looked at pictures etc...I am prepared to take it
to the next step and get a prepurchase inspection. The plane is in the
south. Does anyone know of a quality and RV 10 knowledgeable inspector.
I appreciate any help available.
David
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David C. Watterson" <dcw(at)dddirectories.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking to buy a RV 10 |
The plane is in Musselshoels, ALA
----- Original Message -----
From: Rob Kermanj
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 6:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Looking to buy a RV 10
I am not an "Inspector" but an EAA Tech Advisor and have built my 10.
Depending on the location, I might be able to help you if my
qualifications are good enough for you.
Rob.
On Oct 21, 2007, at 6:40 PM, David C. Watterson wrote:
I have found a RV 10 I like. I have spoken to the owner multiple
times, reviewed data looked at pictures etc...I am prepared to take it
to the next step and get a prepurchase inspection. The plane is in the
south. Does anyone know of a quality and RV 10 knowledgeable inspector.
I appreciate any help available.
David
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Looking to buy a RV 10 |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Vic Syracuse has built several planes including a gorgeous RV-10 and is also a
DAR. He's located in GA.
Gary Specketer also spends his winters in GA and has also built several planes
including an award winning GlasAir III and is in the finishing stages on an RV-10.
Gary is a Tech Counselor.
I don't have their contact info handy but you can probably find it by either searching the RV-10 list or on Tim O's website http://www.myrv10.com
Bob #40105
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141028#141028
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | WD-1002 / F1001B / F1040 Fuse channel rivet holes |
Hi
Last night I started match drilling the holes in the WD1002 steel weldment
that is attached to the firewall. Using the guide holes in the F-1001B as a
guide and after clamping the top WD-1002 flange to get the best edge
clearance possible, I still only got a 3/32 edge clearance (measured from
the edge of the rivet hole) on most of the holes.
Given that that the weldments are steel and not aluminium is this edge
clearance sufficient?
The archives indicate that that these parts have been problematic for some.
Based on what I read, I knew to be fairly aggressive in clamping the parts
to get the most clearance possible. Interestingly, I did have to shim the
side (towards the skin) WD-1002 flanges about a 1/8" to get reasonable edge
clearance. Even so, the maximum edge clearance would be just over 1/8" if
the rivets were evenly spaced on the flange. This suggests that 3/16"
spacing might be okay in this application.
Personally, I think this is one area where the plans should give the builder
a bit of a heads up as to what to do and what to expect.
Any comments or should I talk to the Van's order desk yet again..
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643 - Frustrated in the fuse ..
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Looking to buy a RV 10 |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
My records show Jeff Dennis the builder of kit #40517 in Tuscumbia, AL
and registered as N2733K. My quick take is that Vic Syracuse is the
best DAR/advisor in the south and would be my very first choice. That
was a FAST build completion and Vic would know exactly where the corners
were cut and shortcuts taken. The kit is an excellent choice regardless
of the build quality which should only effect sales price.
Why is it being sold? And So soon. Did you know that Vic's is for sale
too? Congratulations on selecting the world's finest metal and
composite 4 place aircraft for the dollar.
I am in Aurora, Oregon (KUAO - Home of VANS) and fly Non-rev with my
airline to non-west coast locations.
John
503-453-6016
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David C.
Watterson
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 4:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Looking to buy a RV 10
Alabama. The plane is owned by Jeff Dennis and built by Jeff and a
AP/builder by the name of Steve ?.
Who and where is John Cox?
David
----- Original Message -----
From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen) <mailto:rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 5:55 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Looking to buy a RV 10
John Cox would always be a good choice. Either way I would make
sure they are knowledgeable in RV construction and are preferably an
A&P. Where in the south and who is the builder?
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David C.
Watterson
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 5:41 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Looking to buy a RV 10
I have found a RV 10 I like. I have spoken to the owner multiple
times, reviewed data looked at pictures etc...I am prepared to take it
to the next step and get a prepurchase inspection. The plane is in the
south. Does anyone know of a quality and RV 10 knowledgeable inspector.
I appreciate any help available.
David
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Looking to buy a RV 10 |
| From: | dougpflyrv(at)aol.com |
DAVID, DROP ME AN EMAIL.....DOUGPFLYRV(at)AOL.COM.
DOUG PRESTON
#40372
-----Original Message-----
From: David C. Watterson <dcw(at)dddirectories.com>
Sent: Sun, 21 Oct 2007 5:40 pm
Subject: RV10-List: Looking to buy a RV 10
I have found a RV 10 I like. I have spoken to the
owner multiple times, reviewed data looked at pictures etc...I am prepared to
take it to the next step and get a prepurchase inspection. The plane is in the
south. Does anyone know of a quality and RV 10 knowledgeable
inspector.
?
I appreciate any help available.
?
David
________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
I'll be using a few steam gauges to supplement my EFIS. We don't
seem to talk about these much, but are there preferred makes/models
of air speed indicators, altimeters and the like? Who makes the best
compass, or the best electric DG?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
about to join the forward and mid fuse...
N410CF (now a small light at the end of a very long tunnel)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV10s to Copperstate |
Not me unfortunately. =0AI want to go but I will be on a cruise. Trust me
, I would rather be at Copperstate. Take lots of pictures. =0AI am going t
o be at Nellis for the airshow if all my paperwork goes through without cau
sing them to go to DEFCON 1. =0A =0ATonight I finally finished my annual.
Had to borrow Mike Howe's front bearings from his finishing kit. Both of m
ine had tears in the rubber. Matco is located 300 yards from my hanger and
I'm going to talk with them this week and see what might have caused this.
=0A=0AAnyone located at Van Nuys? Should be there Wednesday. Hopefully I g
et to land on 16R. =0A =0AScott Schmidt=0Ascottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com=0A=0A----
- Original Message ----=0AFrom: David McNeill <dlm46007(at)cox.net>=0ATo: rv10
-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Saturday, October 20, 2007 11:43:50 PM=0ASubjec
t: RV10-List: RV10s to Copperstate=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A =0A =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A =0A =0A=0AAny 10s planning to make Copperstate
==============0A=0A=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
Does anyone have a FAB (filtered airbox) plan and the Fab Bypass plan they
can email me . I think it would have come with those parts but who knows
where they are now!
regards Chris
vhmum(at)bigpond.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV10s to Copperstate |
At least one of my front wheel bearings also had developed a tear
in it, which didn't surprise me given the amount of looseness that
had developed in the whole assembly with the old style spacers.
I was able to buy them locally for under $25 for the identical
bearings. Sounds like a sweet deal for you though having them on field.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Scott Schmidt wrote:
> Not me unfortunately.
> I want to go but I will be on a cruise. Trust me, I would rather be at
> Copperstate. Take lots of pictures.
> I am going to be at Nellis for the airshow if all my paperwork goes
> through without causing them to go to DEFCON 1.
>
> Tonight I finally finished my annual. Had to borrow Mike Howe's front
> bearings from his finishing kit. Both of mine had tears in the rubber.
> Matco is located 300 yards from my hanger and I'm going to talk with
> them this week and see what might have caused this.
>
> Anyone located at Van Nuys? Should be there Wednesday. Hopefully I get
> to land on 16R.
>
> Scott Schmidt
> scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> |
I was looking for a way to cover the exhaust ports on the engine, while
it was hanging on the plane as we work our way through the Firewall
Forward section. I didn't have enough of those little custom covers
that bolt on, but I found that a common lid from a can of spray paint
works pretty well. You can flex it to get it over both bolt studs, and
the ensuing tension keeps it in place. I put some desiccant crystals in
the bottom of the lids for good measure.
TDT
40025
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Vans Flap positioning system |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
Hey all,
Checked the operation of the flap positioning system tonight. Extend works
fine, but retract does not work. You can hear the relay clicking, but the
flaps do not retract. Connecting power directly to the flap motor drives
the flaps in the required direction. Flap positioner is the standard provi
ded by vans. Any clues?
cheers,
Ron
187 finishing
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vans Flap positioning system |
Ron,
The FPS is controlled by three inputs of power. There is constant power to
the box, and then your switch provides power to two individual inputs, up a
nd down. You are not wired that way unless of course you have a defective u
nit as Deem's pointed out prior. So the unit get a ground, flap power, swit
ched power up and switched power down.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron McGANN" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 6:46:16 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Vans Flap positioning system
Hey all,
Checked the operation of the flap positioning system tonight.=C2- Extend
works fine, but retract does not work.=C2- You can hear the relay clickin
g, but the flaps do not retract.=C2- Connecting power directly to the fla
p motor drives the flaps in the required direction.=C2- Flap positioner i
s the standard provided by vans.=C2- Any clues?
cheers,
Ron
187 finishing
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
===============
====
=======================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GRANSCOTT(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Steam Gauges |
In a message dated 10/21/2007 11:19:19 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
jeff(at)westcottpress.com writes:
Who makes the best
compass
While one can do what one wants...I'd put in a Vertical Card Compass rather
than a an old style type if I intended to fly IFR.
P
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vans Flap positioning system |
| From: | n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net |
If you ever hooked up the power backwards on the FPS, it burns out one
side of the electronics. It will work one way, but not the other.
Ask me how I know.... I got so used to hooking up directly to the motor
then swapping the leads to run it backwards, but you can't do that once
the FPS is installed.
> Hey all,
>
> Checked the operation of the flap positioning system tonight. Extend
> works fine, but retract does not work. You can hear the relay clicking,
> but the flaps do not retract. Connecting power directly to the flap motor
> drives the flaps in the required direction. Flap positioner is the
> standard provided by vans. Any clues?
>
> cheers,
> Ron
> 187 finishing
> "Warning:
> The information contained in this email and any attached files is
> confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
> recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
> attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
> in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
> taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
> however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
> sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
> checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
> your computer."
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vans Flap positioning system |
Yup! You have a wiring error. Most likely at the relay contacts.
Linn
McGANN, Ron wrote:
> Hey all,
>
> Checked the operation of the flap positioning system tonight. Extend
> works fine, but retract does not work. You can hear the relay
> clicking, but the flaps do not retract. Connecting power directly to
> the flap motor drives the flaps in the required direction. Flap
> positioner is the standard provided by vans. Any clues?
>
> cheers,
> Ron
> 187 finishing
>
>"Warning:
>The information contained in this email and any attached files is
>confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
>recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
>attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
>in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
>taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
>however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
>sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
>checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
>your computer."
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: WD-1002 / F1001B / F1040 Fuse channel rivet holes |
Les... yes, i would give Vans a call just to put your mind at ease. i
did. the 3/32" edge distance sounds and looks about right. i may even
have some of the furthest aft holes with even less edge distance. from
what i remember, i was told loads are mainly longitudinal and not
lateral here. thus, the rivets would break long before the steel. if you
do a lot of knife-edge maneuvers, then there might be cause for concern. ;)
i think you are referring to this area:
http://www.jline.com/log/aviation/build/airframe/fuselage/sec29_fuse_side_skins/photos/IMG_4637.html
calling Section 29 "frustrating", is putting it mildly!
jae
40533
floors
Les Kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> Last night I started match drilling the holes in the WD1002 steel
> weldment that is attached to the firewall. Using the guide holes in
> the F-1001B as a guide and _after_ clamping the top WD-1002 flange to
> get the best edge clearance possible, I still only got a 3/32 edge
> clearance (measured from the edge of the rivet hole) on most of the
> holes.
>
> Given that that the weldments are steel and not aluminium is this edge
> clearance sufficient?
>
> The archives indicate that that these parts have been problematic for
> some. Based on what I read, I knew to be fairly aggressive in clamping
> the parts to get the most clearance possible. Interestingly, I did
> have to shim the side (towards the skin) WD-1002 flanges about a 1/8
> to get reasonable edge clearance. Even so, the maximum edge clearance
> would be just over 1/8 if the rivets were evenly spaced on the
> flange. This suggests that 3/16 spacing might be okay in this
> application.
>
> Personally, I think this is one area where the plans should give the
> builder a bit of a heads up as to what to do and what to expect.
>
> Any comments or should I talk to the Vans order desk yet again.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les Kearney
>
> #40643 Frustrated in the fuse ..
>
> *
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net> |
I bought the Van's catalog airspeed, tach and VSI, they work as advertised.
For the same price as an RC Allen electric DG, you can have a Dynon D10A
EFIS. Same size hole, same price, won't die after 400 or so hours, and
provides all the other indications as a backup bonus.
I pulled my RC Allen electric AI and replaced it with a Dynon D10A. Now I
have a much more reliable AI, plus DG, plus CDI/GS/HSI, etc.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (350 hrs)
RV-10 (wings)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 12:15 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Steam Gauges
I'll be using a few steam gauges to supplement my EFIS. We don't
seem to talk about these much, but are there preferred makes/models
of air speed indicators, altimeters and the like? Who makes the best
compass, or the best electric DG?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
about to join the forward and mid fuse...
N410CF (now a small light at the end of a very long tunnel)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
Jeff,
I have a 2.25" mechanical airspeed indicator from Van's. I like the concept
but it is 7-10 knots high. I have had success in the past having them
recalibrated but it has to go back for that. I'll do it during painting.
The only other "real" gauge is a vertical card compass. I think it's almost
as good as a DG, and no precession. They're a little finicky to calibrate
but with some patience the job is doable. Once set they're pretty accurate.
Mine is a PA-700.
OK, one more. I have an old fashioned Hobbs meter, for no other reason than
I can go back to the plane to get the time without powering everything on.
That comes in handier than I would have believed.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
Flying, 28 hrs, almost done with Phase I.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 9:15 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Steam Gauges
I'll be using a few steam gauges to supplement my EFIS. We don't seem to
talk about these much, but are there preferred makes/models of air speed
indicators, altimeters and the like? Who makes the best compass, or the
best electric DG?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
about to join the forward and mid fuse...
N410CF (now a small light at the end of a very long tunnel)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Steam Gauges |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I am getting my panel together right now. I also heartily endorse the PAI vertical
card compass. It got me out of hot water after a total electrical failure
in my Cessna 182. There is a mount for the cabin support bar and it is really
a great compass
I am going with AFS3500 but probably backing it up with the newer 2.25" gauges
Airspeed, Altimeter and Mid-Continent AI (expensive).
BIG IMPORTANT ADVICE get your panel together early on - I waited tooooooo long
and now I regret it. You need to cut out the sub panel on the fuselage front upper
for the avionics and you have to know early where to do the cut outs. I do
not want to do that job upside down.
I love the CNC and the design of my RV10, but it has four major flaws to my thinking.
1. The sub panel that I referred to above should be nut plated and removable to
easily install future avionics
2. The back floors should be nut plated and removable - check corrosion
3. the windows should be replaceable with an aluminum bezel not permanently affixed
to the airframe - too hard to replace and install
4. A side stick option would add value and sex appeal - making it a direct competitor
to Cirrus at $400K
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141249#141249
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | prop torque help |
Guys I am having trouble working this out and each time get a different
figure.
I have an extention on a torque wrench and need to calculate the new
torque.
The torque without the extention is 60-70 FT pounds
The formular is
Actual torque required X torque wrench length = Torque wrench
reading to acheive required torque
Torque wrench lengh + length of adapter
Torque wrench is 16 1/2 inches and the adapter is 3 inches
Have a go please
regards Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cleary" <john_rv10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | prop torque help |
Chris,
I get 50.8 ' 59.23 calculated, with the torque extended 3=94
John
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris and
Susie
McGough
Sent: Tuesday, 23 October 2007 5:20 PM
Subject: RV10-List: prop torque help
Guys I am having trouble working this out and each time get a different
figure.
I have an extention on a torque wrench and need to calculate the new
torque.
The torque without the extention is 60-70 FT pounds
The formular is
Actual torque required X torque wrench length = Torque wrench
reading to acheive required torque
Torque wrench lengh + length of adapter
Torque wrench is 16 1/2 inches and the adapter is 3 inches
Have a go please
regards Chris
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Na
vig
ator?RV10-List
"http://forums.matronics.com"http://forums.matronics.com
22/10/2007
7:57 PM
22/10/2007
7:57 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: prop torque help |
John thanks Just torqued up and wired tonight...time for bed thanks all
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: John Cleary
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 9:14 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: prop torque help
Chris,
I get 50.8 ' 59.23 calculated, with the torque extended 3=94
John
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris and
Susie McGough
Sent: Tuesday, 23 October 2007 5:20 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: prop torque help
Guys I am having trouble working this out and each time get a
different figure.
I have an extention on a torque wrench and need to calculate the new
torque.
The torque without the extention is 60-70 FT pounds
The formular is
Actual torque required X torque wrench length = Torque
wrench reading to acheive required torque
Torque wrench lengh + length of adapter
Torque wrench is 16 1/2 inches and the adapter is 3 inches
Have a go please
regards Chris
Release Date: 22/10/2007 7:57 PM
22/10/2007 7:57 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | cabin top trimming |
I am to the point of attaching the tailcone, however I won't have room
for the combined length of the assembly in my hanger for a few months.
So I am considering doing the trimming and fitting of the cabin top
without the tailcone attached. Besides not being able to fit and drill
the aft flange of the top, is there any reason I couldn't fit the rest
of the top? Has anyone that has gone before me have any input on this?
Thanks
Chris Hukill
potential plan deviant
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LES KEARNEY <Kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: WD-1002 / F1001B / F1040 Fuse channel rivet holes |
Hi Jae
I was really looking forward to those knife edge maneuvers and now you say I can't
do them!!!! Rats!!!
Seriously though, I agree with the longitudinal assessment. My concern is that
there is a lateral stress setup as I had to clamp and squeeze the WD1002 flange
outward to get the edge clearance achieved.
I have spoken to Vans, sent them some info and am awaiting a response from their
engineering department. It would be good if the plans:
specified the minimum acceptable edge clearance given that we are talking about
steel parts held with aluminium rivets
specified how to clamp (and perhaps to what extent) to get this edge clearance.
Better yet would be to make the parts so that this is a non issue. Adding 1/2"
to the flange would be a perfect solution.
I will post whatever info comes back from Vans
Cheers
Les
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jae Chang
> Sent: October-22-07 11:13 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: WD-1002 / F1001B / F1040 Fuse channel
> rivet holes
>
> matronics_rv10(at)jline.com>
> Les... yes, i would give Vans a call just to put your mind at
> ease. i
> did. the 3/32" edge distance sounds and looks about right. i may
> even
> have some of the furthest aft holes with even less edge
> distance. from
> what i remember, i was told loads are mainly longitudinal and
> not
> lateral here. thus, the rivets would break long before the
> steel. if you
> do a lot of knife-edge maneuvers, then there might be cause for
> concern. ;)
>
> i think you are referring to this area:
> http://www.jline.com/log/aviation/build/airframe/fuselage/sec29_fuse_side_sk
> ins/photos/IMG_4637.html
>
> calling Section 29 "frustrating", is putting it mildly!
>
> jae
> 40533
> floors
>
> Les Kearney wrote:
> >
> > Hi
> >
> > Last night I started match drilling the holes in the WD1002
> steel
> > weldment that is attached to the firewall. Using the guide
> holes in
> > the F-1001B as a guide and _after_ clamping the top WD-1002
> flange to
> > get the best edge clearance possible, I still only got a 3/32
> edge
> > clearance (measured from the edge of the rivet hole) on most
> of the
> > holes.
> >
> > Given that that the weldments are steel and not aluminium is
> this edge
> > clearance sufficient?
> >
> > The archives indicate that that these parts have been
> problematic for
> > some. Based on what I read, I knew to be fairly aggressive in
> clamping
> > the parts to get the most clearance possible. Interestingly, I
> did
> > have to shim the side (towards the skin) WD-1002 flanges about
> a 1/8"
> > to get reasonable edge clearance. Even so, the maximum edge
> clearance
> > would be just over 1/8" if the rivets were evenly spaced on
> the
> > flange. This suggests that 3/16" spacing might be okay in this
> > application.
> >
> > Personally, I think this is one area where the plans should
> give the
> > builder a bit of a heads up as to what to do and what to expect.
> >
> > Any comments or should I talk to the Van's order desk yet again..
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Les Kearney
> >
> > #40643 - Frustrated in the fuse ..
> >
> > *
> > *
>
> RV10-List Email Forum -
> _-
> = - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Prop Arc Size Question |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Getting ready to install my InAir LRI and need to keep it 24 inches outside the
prop arc. It's 4 feet out on the wing to an ideal inspection port, but need to
know the largest prop arc out there. Thanks.
John
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141315#141315
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James K Hovis" <james.k.hovis(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Arc Size Question |
Measure the height to the center of your spinner (or center of the
prop attach flange on the engine) with engine installed from the
ground and subtract 9 inches. This will give you the the radius of
the maximum prop arc based on typical aircraft design practice:
provide minimum of 9" ground clearance for a prop arc.
Kevin Hovis.
On 10/23/07, johngoodman wrote:
>
> Getting ready to install my InAir LRI and need to keep it 24 inches outside
> the prop arc. It's 4 feet out on the wing to an ideal inspection port, but
> need to know the largest prop arc out there. Thanks.
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
> N711JG reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141315#141315
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | cabin top trimming |
The main issue here would be that you need to make sure that the at flange
of the cabin top is even with the top of the aft baggage bulkhead. If you
can make sure that this fits (the side flanges of the cabin top are not
enough to ensure this fit), then I see no reason you couldn't do it ahead of
time. Note that trimming around the door openings affects this fit.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: Chris Hukill [mailto:cjhukill(at)cox.net]
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 11:04 AM
Subject: RV10-List: cabin top trimming
I am to the point of attaching the tailcone, however I won't have room for
the combined length of the assembly in my hanger for a few months. So I am
considering doing the trimming and fitting of the cabin top without the
tailcone attached. Besides not being able to fit and drill the aft flange of
the top, is there any reason I couldn't fit the rest of the top? Has anyone
that has gone before me have any input on this?
Thanks
Chris Hukill
potential plan deviant
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hilger" <ninepapa(at)bendbroadband.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cabin top trimming |
Chris
You might consider doing the wheel pants, gear leg, and intersection
fairings.
That might keep you busy for a while.
John
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Hukill
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 9:03 AM
Subject: RV10-List: cabin top trimming
I am to the point of attaching the tailcone, however I won't have room
for the combined length of the assembly in my hanger for a few months.
So I am considering doing the trimming and fitting of the cabin top
without the tailcone attached. Besides not being able to fit and drill
the aft flange of the top, is there any reason I couldn't fit the rest
of the top? Has anyone that has gone before me have any input on this?
Thanks
Chris Hukill
potential plan deviant
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FPS Lessons Learnt |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
G'day all,
Checked the wiring of the Flap Positioning System again last night. As
a professional Electrical Engineer, I confirmed that there was no wiring
issue and was convinced the FPS controller was stuffed. So I removed it
and disassembled it. Here is what I discovered:
1=2E the controller consists of 2 relays, 2 diodes and two fusible
links. Cost of the components is about $15. The $225 cost of the unit
is extortionate.
2=2E One of the fusible links had opened.
3=2E A check of the switches on the switch bracket indicated that the
retract switch was not properly engaged by the positioning rod (ie the
switch was not closed)
So, when the flaps were originally activated, extend worked fine.
Because the retract switch was not properly engaged (probably
intermittent), the flaps would not retract. If the flaps will not
retract using the FPS, the only way to retract them is to apply reverse
voltage directly to the flap motor. But if the FPS is connected, this
will send power the wrong way through the control box and cause one of
the fusible links to open.
In summary, there was no initial problem with the controller. The
problem was misaligned switches on the switch bracket. Manually
retracting the flaps while the FPS was connected cooked the controller
and rendered retract permanently u/s.
So here are the lessons:
1=2E The electronics in the FPS are trivial. If you have an FPS
problem it will be very unlikely to be a fault in the controller.
2=2E If the flaps fail to extend or retract, confirm that the
microswitches are being properly opened/closed by the positioning rod
along its travel.
3=2E use a molex or equivalent connector at the flap motor/actuator
connector so that the flap can be extended/retracted manually with the
controller installed (but disconnected).
I can't see any really compelling reaon for the fusible links, so
replaced them with #28 wire - be buggered if I was going to spend
another US$225 on a repalcement unit. Checked the switch alignment and
bench tested out ok. Will reinstall the electronics in a new case and
remount in the tunnel tomorrow night.
Hope this helps for those yet to install.
Ron
-187 finishing (probably forever!!!)
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com> |
| Subject: | Seat rivets LP4-3 vs CS4-4 |
On page 35-3, did anyone else find it odd that the rear seats are
riveted down with LP4-3, instead of CS4-4, like it is on all the other
flat floor surfaces? I would much prefer floor a flat surface with CS4-4's.
I am tempted to dimple everything and put in CS4-4's. Did anyone manage
to do this? Hopefully, there were no ill-effects?
Jae
40533
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Seat rivets LP4-3 vs CS4-4 |
It doesn't really matter once you put a carpet kit in like Abby at Flightli
ne sells then the cushions. =0A =0AScott Schmidt=0Ascottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10@jlin
e.com>=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 6:01
:38 PM=0ASubject: RV10-List: Seat rivets LP4-3 vs CS4-4=0A=0A=0A--> RV10-Li
st message posted by: Jae Chang=0A =0A=0AOn pa
ge 35-3, did anyone else find it odd that the rear seats are =0Ariveted dow
n with LP4-3, instead of CS4-4, like it is on all the other =0Aflat floor s
urfaces? I would much prefer floor a flat surface with=0A CS4-4's.=0A=0AI a
m tempted to dimple everything and put in CS4-4's. Did anyone manage=0A =0A
to do this? Hopefully, there were no ill-effects?=0A=0AJae=0A40533=0A=0A=0A
========================0A=0A
=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prop Arc Size Question |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Since I'm still just doing wings and Fuselage, I don't have an engine, hence the
question. But thanks, I've got the info I need. It's about 2 feet from the spinner
to the wing root, so another 40 inches brings it very close to the bay
I want to use. I'll probably play it safe and move it out one more bay.
John
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141409#141409
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | WD-1002 / F1001B / F1040 Fuse channel rivet holes |
Hi Again
I heard back from Ken at Van's. According to Ken, the engineering group is
not concerned about the 3/32 edge clearance that I achieved.
I also have a gap between the F1001B and the F1040 fuse channel at the
forward end that I don't think will close when riveted. They said I could
shim the gap if desired.
Cheers
Les
#40643 - Singing the Section 29 Blues..
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of LES KEARNEY
Sent: October-23-07 10:16 AM
Subject: Re: FW: RV10-List: WD-1002 / F1001B / F1040 Fuse channel rivet
holes
Hi Jae
I was really looking forward to those knife edge maneuvers and now you say I
can't do them!!!! Rats!!!
Seriously though, I agree with the longitudinal assessment. My concern is
that there is a lateral stress setup as I had to clamp and squeeze the
WD1002 flange outward to get the edge clearance achieved.
I have spoken to Vans, sent them some info and am awaiting a response from
their engineering department. It would be good if the plans:
1. specified the minimum acceptable edge clearance given that we are
talking about steel parts held with aluminium rivets
2. specified how to clamp (and perhaps to what extent) to get this edge
clearance.
Better yet would be to make the parts so that this is a non issue. Adding
1/2" to the flange would be a perfect solution.
I will post whatever info comes back from Vans
Cheers
Les
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jae Chang
> Sent: October-22-07 11:13 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: WD-1002 / F1001B / F1040 Fuse channel
> rivet holes
>
> matronics_rv10(at)jline.com>
> Les... yes, i would give Vans a call just to put your mind at
> ease. i
> did. the 3/32" edge distance sounds and looks about right. i may
> even
> have some of the furthest aft holes with even less edge
> distance. from
> what i remember, i was told loads are mainly longitudinal and
> not
> lateral here. thus, the rivets would break long before the
> steel. if you
> do a lot of knife-edge maneuvers, then there might be cause for
> concern. ;)
>
> i think you are referring to this area:
>
http://www.jline.com/log/aviation/build/airframe/fuselage/sec29_fuse_side_sk
> ins/photos/IMG_4637.html
>
> calling Section 29 "frustrating", is putting it mildly!
>
> jae
> 40533
> floors
>
> Les Kearney wrote:
> >
> > Hi
> >
> > Last night I started match drilling the holes in the WD1002
> steel
> > weldment that is attached to the firewall. Using the guide
> holes in
> > the F-1001B as a guide and _after_ clamping the top WD-1002
> flange to
> > get the best edge clearance possible, I still only got a 3/32
> edge
> > clearance (measured from the edge of the rivet hole) on most
> of the
> > holes.
> >
> > Given that that the weldments are steel and not aluminium is
> this edge
> > clearance sufficient?
> >
> > The archives indicate that that these parts have been
> problematic for
> > some. Based on what I read, I knew to be fairly aggressive in
> clamping
> > the parts to get the most clearance possible. Interestingly, I
> did
> > have to shim the side (towards the skin) WD-1002 flanges about
> a 1/8"
> > to get reasonable edge clearance. Even so, the maximum edge
> clearance
> > would be just over 1/8" if the rivets were evenly spaced on
> the
> > flange. This suggests that 3/16" spacing might be okay in this
> > application.
> >
> > Personally, I think this is one area where the plans should
> give the
> > builder a bit of a heads up as to what to do and what to expect.
> >
> > Any comments or should I talk to the Van's order desk yet again..
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Les Kearney
> >
> > #40643 - Frustrated in the fuse ..
> >
> > *
> > *
>
> RV10-List Email Forum -
> _-
> = - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FPS Lessons Learnt |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Ron, that does indeed help but would be even better if you would
recommend components that us Amateur Radio types should kludge together
to make a superior product. Would gladly send you money to offset the
professional report.
John Cox
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 4:02 PM
Subject: RV10-List: FPS Lessons Learnt
G'day all,
Checked the wiring of the Flap Positioning System again last night. As
a professional Electrical Engineer, I confirmed that there was no wiring
issue and was convinced the FPS controller was stuffed. So I removed it
and disassembled it. Here is what I discovered:
1. the controller consists of 2 relays, 2 diodes and two fusible
links. Cost of the components is about $15. The $225 cost of the unit
is extortionate.
2. One of the fusible links had opened.
3. A check of the switches on the switch bracket indicated that the
retract switch was not properly engaged by the positioning rod (ie the
switch was not closed)
So, when the flaps were originally activated, extend worked fine.
Because the retract switch was not properly engaged (probably
intermittent), the flaps would not retract. If the flaps will not
retract using the FPS, the only way to retract them is to apply reverse
voltage directly to the flap motor. But if the FPS is connected, this
will send power the wrong way through the control box and cause one of
the fusible links to open.
In summary, there was no initial problem with the controller. The
problem was misaligned switches on the switch bracket. Manually
retracting the flaps while the FPS was connected cooked the controller
and rendered retract permanently u/s.
So here are the lessons:
1. The electronics in the FPS are trivial. If you have an FPS
problem it will be very unlikely to be a fault in the controller.
2. If the flaps fail to extend or retract, confirm that the
microswitches are being properly opened/closed by the positioning rod
along its travel.
3. use a molex or equivalent connector at the flap motor/actuator
connector so that the flap can be extended/retracted manually with the
controller installed (but disconnected).
I can't see any really compelling reaon for the fusible links, so
replaced them with #28 wire - be buggered if I was going to spend
another US$225 on a repalcement unit. Checked the switch alignment and
bench tested out ok. Will reinstall the electronics in a new case and
remount in the tunnel tomorrow night.
Hope this helps for those yet to install.
Ron
-187 finishing (probably forever!!!)
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | FPS Lessons Learnt |
He makes me glad I returned mine for credit.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 6:21 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FPS Lessons Learnt
Ron, that does indeed help but would be even better if you would recommend
components that us Amateur Radio types should kludge together to make a
superior product. Would gladly send you money to offset the professional
report.
John Cox
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 4:02 PM
Subject: RV10-List: FPS Lessons Learnt
G'day all,
Checked the wiring of the Flap Positioning System again last night. As a
professional Electrical Engineer, I confirmed that there was no wiring issue
and was convinced the FPS controller was stuffed. So I removed it and
disassembled it. Here is what I discovered:
1. the controller consists of 2 relays, 2 diodes and two fusible links.
Cost of the components is about $15. The $225 cost of the unit is
extortionate.
2. One of the fusible links had opened.
3. A check of the switches on the switch bracket indicated that the
retract switch was not properly engaged by the positioning rod (ie the
switch was not closed)
So, when the flaps were originally activated, extend worked fine. Because
the retract switch was not properly engaged (probably intermittent), the
flaps would not retract. If the flaps will not retract using the FPS, the
only way to retract them is to apply reverse voltage directly to the flap
motor. But if the FPS is connected, this will send power the wrong way
through the control box and cause one of the fusible links to open.
In summary, there was no initial problem with the controller. The problem
was misaligned switches on the switch bracket. Manually retracting the
flaps while the FPS was connected cooked the controller and rendered retract
permanently u/s.
So here are the lessons:
1. The electronics in the FPS are trivial. If you have an FPS problem
it will be very unlikely to be a fault in the controller.
2. If the flaps fail to extend or retract, confirm that the
microswitches are being properly opened/closed by the positioning rod along
its travel.
3. use a molex or equivalent connector at the flap motor/actuator
connector so that the flap can be extended/retracted manually with the
controller installed (but disconnected).
I can't see any really compelling reaon for the fusible links, so replaced
them with #28 wire - be buggered if I was going to spend another US$225 on a
repalcement unit. Checked the switch alignment and bench tested out ok.
Will reinstall the electronics in a new case and remount in the tunnel
tomorrow night.
Hope this helps for those yet to install.
Ron
-187 finishing (probably forever!!!)
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
<http://forums.matronics.com> http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | WD-1002 / F1001B / F1040 Fuse channel rivet holes |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Les, was that Ken Krueger or Ken Scott that quoted for the whole
engineering department/ group at VANS? If you heard that in writing,
could you (Please) post it so that others can base their build technique
on it as well. Their professional knowledge base and academic training
are vastly differing between the two Ken's.
A 2X rivet diameter to edge distance is a fairly solid and hard rule to
avoid both stress cracks and tears on military, civil air carrier and
certified general aviation build aeroplanes. I have both the US Army
DOD Structural Manual and the Naval Aviator's Manuals, The Canadian
Bombardier Structural Aircraft Manual along with the FAA AC 43.13. Would
anyone else like another Aviation Structural Engineer's written opinion
before proceeding with reduced edge distances? If it is a modern change,
I am all for modifying decades old technique.
Gosh, And why is it that I always seem like the bad guy when following
an established construction technique? Must be the weather out here.
Don't take any of this personally I have to maintain French Canadian
designed and built aircraft every night. Epic Aircraft found it
advantageous to move from Oregon to Canada for a most interesting
reason.
I am not even going there on the subject of closing gaps with shim
material before anchoring skins with solid rivet fasteners.
John Cox - KUAO
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 5:59 PM
Subject: RE: FW: RV10-List: WD-1002 / F1001B / F1040 Fuse channel rivet
holes
Hi Again
I heard back from Ken at Van's. According to Ken, the engineering group
is not concerned about the 3/32 edge clearance that I achieved.
I also have a gap between the F1001B and the F1040 fuse channel at the
forward end that I don't think will close when riveted. They said I
could shim the gap if desired.
Cheers
Les
#40643 - Singing the Section 29 Blues....
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of LES KEARNEY
Sent: October-23-07 10:16 AM
Subject: Re: FW: RV10-List: WD-1002 / F1001B / F1040 Fuse channel rivet
holes
Hi Jae
I was really looking forward to those knife edge maneuvers and now you
say I can't do them!!!! Rats!!!
Seriously though, I agree with the longitudinal assessment. My concern
is that there is a lateral stress setup as I had to clamp and squeeze
the WD1002 flange outward to get the edge clearance achieved.
I have spoken to Vans, sent them some info and am awaiting a response
from their engineering department. It would be good if the plans:
1. specified the minimum acceptable edge clearance given that we
are talking about steel parts held with aluminium rivets
2. specified how to clamp (and perhaps to what extent) to get this
edge clearance.
Better yet would be to make the parts so that this is a non issue.
Adding 1/2" to the flange would be a perfect solution.
I will post whatever info comes back from Vans
Cheers
Les
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jae Chang
> Sent: October-22-07 11:13 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: WD-1002 / F1001B / F1040 Fuse channel
> rivet holes
>
> matronics_rv10(at)jline.com>
> Les... yes, i would give Vans a call just to put your mind at
> ease. i
> did. the 3/32" edge distance sounds and looks about right. i may
> even
> have some of the furthest aft holes with even less edge
> distance. from
> what i remember, i was told loads are mainly longitudinal and
> not
> lateral here. thus, the rivets would break long before the
> steel. if you
> do a lot of knife-edge maneuvers, then there might be cause for
> concern. ;)
>
> i think you are referring to this area:
>
http://www.jline.com/log/aviation/build/airframe/fuselage/sec29_fuse_sid
e_sk
> ins/photos/IMG_4637.html
>
> calling Section 29 "frustrating", is putting it mildly!
>
> jae
> 40533
> floors
>
> Les Kearney wrote:
> >
> > Hi
> >
> > Last night I started match drilling the holes in the WD1002
> steel
> > weldment that is attached to the firewall. Using the guide
> holes in
> > the F-1001B as a guide and _after_ clamping the top WD-1002
> flange to
> > get the best edge clearance possible, I still only got a 3/32
> edge
> > clearance (measured from the edge of the rivet hole) on most
> of the
> > holes.
> >
> > Given that that the weldments are steel and not aluminium is
> this edge
> > clearance sufficient?
> >
> > The archives indicate that that these parts have been
> problematic for
> > some. Based on what I read, I knew to be fairly aggressive in
> clamping
> > the parts to get the most clearance possible. Interestingly, I
> did
> > have to shim the side (towards the skin) WD-1002 flanges about
> a 1/8"
> > to get reasonable edge clearance. Even so, the maximum edge
> clearance
> > would be just over 1/8" if the rivets were evenly spaced on
> the
> > flange. This suggests that 3/16" spacing might be okay in this
> > application.
> >
> > Personally, I think this is one area where the plans should
> give the
> > builder a bit of a heads up as to what to do and what to expect.
> >
> > Any comments or should I talk to the Van's order desk yet again..
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Les Kearney
> >
> > #40643 - Frustrated in the fuse ..
> >
> > *
> > *
>
> ==========
> RV10-List Email Forum -
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> _-
> = - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
> ==========
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FPS Lessons Learnt |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
Hi John,
The Showplanes FPS is an elegant, simple, effective design that I am
sure has been used with great success in many RVs. I am peeved at the
price and the quality of documentation that fails to warn of the not so
obvious consequences of driving the flap motor while the FPS is
installed.
The only technical issue I might have with their design is the need for
the fusible links - I need to think about the REAL need a little more.
The relay/switch logic is pretty trivial and once this has been worked
out, the required circuit diagram and PCB are elementary. The
convenience of the Showplanes system is the switch bracket and
positioning rod assembly - so long as you confirm proper engagement of
the switches , it is elegant and
should work a treat.
I won't reproduce the circuit for the Showplanes FPS - they may have
Intellectual Property in it - but it's not rocket science. If you
weren't building an RV, and armed with a basic knowledge of switch
logic, you could design (and probably even build) an FPS with two 12V
DPDT relays, 2 (optional) diodes and 2 microswitches on a sunday arvo.
The hard part is not the controller, but the position switching
mechanism and I think the showplanes concept is excellent.
The Aircraft Extras FPS Plus NT (with Ray Allen position indicator in
the cost) is almost the same price as the Showplanes unit, but is
probably micoprocessor controlled to perform the automated functionality
it offers. Go figure the Showplanes pricing logic.
cheers,
Ron
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Wednesday, 24 October 2007 10:51 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FPS Lessons Learnt
Ron, that does indeed help but would be even better if you would
recommend components that us Amateur Radio types should kludge together
to make a superior product. Would gladly send you money to offset the
professional report.
John Cox
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 4:02 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: FPS Lessons Learnt
G'day all,
Checked the wiring of the Flap Positioning System again last
night. As a professional Electrical Engineer, I confirmed that there
was no wiring issue and was convinced the FPS controller was stuffed.
So I removed it and disassembled it. Here is what I discovered:
1. the controller consists of 2 relays, 2 diodes and two
fusible links. Cost of the components is about $15. The $225 cost of
the unit is extortionate.
2. One of the fusible links had opened.
3. A check of the switches on the switch bracket indicated
that the retract switch was not properly engaged by the positioning rod
(ie the switch was not closed)
So, when the flaps were originally activated, extend worked
fine. Because the retract switch was not properly engaged (probably
intermittent), the flaps would not retract. If the flaps will not
retract using the FPS, the only way to retract them is to apply reverse
voltage directly to the flap motor. But if the FPS is connected, this
will send power the wrong way through the control box and cause one of
the fusible links to open.
In summary, there was no initial problem with the controller.
The problem was misaligned switches on the switch bracket. Manually
retracting the flaps while the FPS was connected cooked the controller
and rendered retract permanently u/s.
So here are the lessons:
1. The electronics in the FPS are trivial. If you have an
FPS problem it will be very unlikely to be a fault in the controller.
2. If the flaps fail to extend or retract, confirm that the
microswitches are being properly opened/closed by the positioning rod
along its travel.
3. use a molex or equivalent connector at the flap
motor/actuator connector so that the flap can be extended/retracted
manually with the controller installed (but disconnected).
I can't see any really compelling reaon for the fusible links,
so replaced them with #28 wire - be buggered if I was going to spend
another US$225 on a repalcement unit. Checked the switch alignment and
bench tested out ok. Will reinstall the electronics in a new case and
remount in the tunnel tomorrow night.
Hope this helps for those yet to install.
Ron
-187 finishing (probably forever!!!)
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files
is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the
intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this
email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has
been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not
the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure
virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this
email to
your computer."
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tganster" <tganster(at)mwwb.net> |
Hello all,
I have been lurking for 2 1/2 years and have finally jumped the fence. The 10
empennage will be here Thurs. I live in a rural area of WI about an hour west
of Green Bay with my wife and large family (9 kids). This brings up my first
question. What have others done to include their families in the building process.
My children are all very exited to help out in some way. I had some discussion
with Dan Lloyd at airventure and have read Tim's web sight over concerning
this matter, but would appreciate other comments.
Tom Ganster CLI
40778 Just getting started
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141424#141424
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Dunne" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au> |
| Subject: | FPS Lessons Learnt |
Ron, in your opinion does this pose any potential safety issue with an
inadvertent extension or retraction in flight?
John 40319
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Wednesday, 24 October 2007 12:03 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FPS Lessons Learnt
Hi John,
The Showplanes FPS is an elegant, simple, effective design that I am sure
has been used with great success in many RVs. I am peeved at the price and
the quality of documentation that fails to warn of the not so obvious
consequences of driving the flap motor while the FPS is installed.
The only technical issue I might have with their design is the need for the
fusible links - I need to think about the REAL need a little more. The
relay/switch logic is pretty trivial and once this has been worked out, the
required circuit diagram and PCB are elementary. The convenience of the
Showplanes system is the switch bracket and positioning rod assembly - so
long as you confirm proper engagement of the switches , it is elegant and should work a treat.
I won't reproduce the circuit for the Showplanes FPS - they may have
Intellectual Property in it - but it's not rocket science. If you weren't
building an RV, and armed with a basic knowledge of switch logic, you could
design (and probably even build) an FPS with two 12V DPDT relays, 2
(optional) diodes and 2 microswitches on a sunday arvo. The hard part is
not the controller, but the position switching mechanism and I think the
showplanes concept is excellent.
The Aircraft Extras FPS Plus NT (with Ray Allen position indicator in the
cost) is almost the same price as the Showplanes unit, but is probably
micoprocessor controlled to perform the automated functionality it offers.
Go figure the Showplanes pricing logic.
cheers,
Ron
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Wednesday, 24 October 2007 10:51 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FPS Lessons Learnt
Ron, that does indeed help but would be even better if you would recommend
components that us Amateur Radio types should kludge together to make a
superior product. Would gladly send you money to offset the professional
report.
John Cox
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 4:02 PM
Subject: RV10-List: FPS Lessons Learnt
G'day all,
Checked the wiring of the Flap Positioning System again last night. As a
professional Electrical Engineer, I confirmed that there was no wiring issue
and was convinced the FPS controller was stuffed. So I removed it and
disassembled it. Here is what I discovered:
1. the controller consists of 2 relays, 2 diodes and two fusible links.
Cost of the components is about $15. The $225 cost of the unit is
extortionate.
2. One of the fusible links had opened.
3. A check of the switches on the switch bracket indicated that the
retract switch was not properly engaged by the positioning rod (ie the
switch was not closed)
So, when the flaps were originally activated, extend worked fine. Because
the retract switch was not properly engaged (probably intermittent), the
flaps would not retract. If the flaps will not retract using the FPS, the
only way to retract them is to apply reverse voltage directly to the flap
motor. But if the FPS is connected, this will send power the wrong way
through the control box and cause one of the fusible links to open.
In summary, there was no initial problem with the controller. The problem
was misaligned switches on the switch bracket. Manually retracting the
flaps while the FPS was connected cooked the controller and rendered retract
permanently u/s.
So here are the lessons:
1. The electronics in the FPS are trivial. If you have an FPS problem
it will be very unlikely to be a fault in the controller.
2. If the flaps fail to extend or retract, confirm that the
microswitches are being properly opened/closed by the positioning rod along
its travel.
3. use a molex or equivalent connector at the flap motor/actuator
connector so that the flap can be extended/retracted manually with the
controller installed (but disconnected).
I can't see any really compelling reaon for the fusible links, so replaced
them with #28 wire - be buggered if I was going to spend another US$225 on a
repalcement unit. Checked the switch alignment and bench tested out ok.
Will reinstall the electronics in a new case and remount in the tunnel
tomorrow night.
Hope this helps for those yet to install.
Ron
-187 finishing (probably forever!!!)
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
p://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ics.com
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Glasair III Engine/Fuel Problem |
| From: | darnpilot(at)aol.com |
Hello:
I cannot get the Glasair forum to work, so please indulge me if you will.
?
I've recently purchased a Glasair III.? I have been having continued problems with
a very rough running engine.?
It will run fine for 15 minutes then start running rough and losing power.?
It has even quit running completely.?
The fuel system has been cleaned (injectors, fuel distributor, gascolator and filter,
and screen filters).? It still has the same problem.?
It will run fine for awhile, then very rough or not at all (on the ground and in
the air).?
There is no obvious problem that we can find as everything previously mentioned
has been double checked again.?
Problem occurs with or without the boost pump on.? The last time the engine would
run at 17" MP but no more.
?
The latest "guess" is the fuel servo.? The only thing that has not been checked
(other than the fuel servo) is the fuel selector valve.?
So far alot of effort (and $$$) have been spent with no solution.?
I hate to spend big $$$ on a now or rebuilt fuel servo and again find the same
problem afterward.? Ideas?? HELP!?
?
My airplane is stuck at a small airfield in the middle of nowhere...please help.
?
BTW, I took the airplane to High Speed Composites in Ft. Pierce, FL to have this
fixed as well as some gear work done.? I will never take my plane back there.
?
Jeff
________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FPS Lessons Learnt |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
My opinion?- pretty unlikely. Power is only applied to extend or
retract the flap via the flap switch. If a fault occurs, more likely
the flap will either not extend further (requring a no flaps or reduced
flaps landing), or not retract (maybe a go round with flaps extended).
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Dunne
Sent: Wednesday, 24 October 2007 12:50 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FPS Lessons Learnt
Ron, in your opinion does this pose any potential safety issue
with an inadvertent extension or retraction in flight?
John 40319
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Wednesday, 24 October 2007 12:03 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FPS Lessons Learnt
Hi John,
The Showplanes FPS is an elegant, simple, effective design that
I am sure has been used with great success in many RVs. I am peeved at
the price and the quality of documentation that fails to warn of the not
so obvious consequences of driving the flap motor while the FPS is
installed.
The only technical issue I might have with their design is the
need for the fusible links - I need to think about the REAL need a
little more. The relay/switch logic is pretty trivial and once this has
been worked out, the required circuit diagram and PCB are elementary.
The convenience of the Showplanes system is the switch bracket and
positioning rod assembly - so long as you confirm proper engagement of
the switches , it is elegant and
should work a treat.
I won't reproduce the circuit for the Showplanes FPS - they may
have Intellectual Property in it - but it's not rocket science. If you
weren't building an RV, and armed with a basic knowledge of switch
logic, you could design (and probably even build) an FPS with two 12V
DPDT relays, 2 (optional) diodes and 2 microswitches on a sunday arvo.
The hard part is not the controller, but the position switching
mechanism and I think the showplanes concept is excellent.
The Aircraft Extras FPS Plus NT (with Ray Allen position
indicator in the cost) is almost the same price as the Showplanes unit,
but is probably micoprocessor controlled to perform the automated
functionality it offers. Go figure the Showplanes pricing logic.
cheers,
Ron
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Wednesday, 24 October 2007 10:51 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FPS Lessons Learnt
Ron, that does indeed help but would be even better if
you would recommend components that us Amateur Radio types should kludge
together to make a superior product. Would gladly send you money to
offset the professional report.
John Cox
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 4:02 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: FPS Lessons Learnt
G'day all,
Checked the wiring of the Flap Positioning System again
last night. As a professional Electrical Engineer, I confirmed that
there was no wiring issue and was convinced the FPS controller was
stuffed. So I removed it and disassembled it. Here is what I
discovered:
1. the controller consists of 2 relays, 2 diodes
and two fusible links. Cost of the components is about $15. The $225
cost of the unit is extortionate.
2. One of the fusible links had opened.
3. A check of the switches on the switch bracket
indicated that the retract switch was not properly engaged by the
positioning rod (ie the switch was not closed)
So, when the flaps were originally activated, extend
worked fine. Because the retract switch was not properly engaged
(probably intermittent), the flaps would not retract. If the flaps
will not retract using the FPS, the only way to retract them is to apply
reverse voltage directly to the flap motor. But if the FPS is
connected, this will send power the wrong way through the control box
and cause one of the fusible links to open.
In summary, there was no initial problem with the
controller. The problem was misaligned switches on the switch bracket.
Manually retracting the flaps while the FPS was connected cooked the
controller and rendered retract permanently u/s.
So here are the lessons:
1. The electronics in the FPS are trivial. If you
have an FPS problem it will be very unlikely to be a fault in the
controller.
2. If the flaps fail to extend or retract, confirm
that the microswitches are being properly opened/closed by the
positioning rod along its travel.
3. use a molex or equivalent connector at the flap
motor/actuator connector so that the flap can be extended/retracted
manually with the controller installed (but disconnected).
I can't see any really compelling reaon for the fusible
links, so replaced them with #28 wire - be buggered if I was going to
spend another US$225 on a repalcement unit. Checked the switch
alignment and bench tested out ok. Will reinstall the electronics in a
new case and remount in the tunnel tomorrow night.
Hope this helps for those yet to install.
Ron
-187 finishing (probably forever!!!)
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Glasair III Engine/Fuel Problem |
I suggest you contact the field rep for the Seattle area assuming your
engine is a Lycoming. He is Brian Costello at
BCostello(at)Lycoming.testron.com.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of darnpilot(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 8:34 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Glasair III Engine/Fuel Problem
Hello:
I cannot get the Glasair forum to work, so please indulge me if you will.
I've recently purchased a Glasair III. I have been having continued
problems with a very rough running engine.
It will run fine for 15 minutes then start running rough and losing power.
It has even quit running completely.
The fuel system has been cleaned (injectors, fuel distributor, gascolator
and filter, and screen filters). It still has the same problem.
It will run fine for awhile, then very rough or not at all (on the ground
and in the air).
There is no obvious problem that we can find as everything previously
mentioned has been double checked again.
Problem occurs with or without the boost pump on. The last time the engine
would run at 17" MP but no more.
The latest "guess" is the fuel servo. The only thing that has not been
checked (other than the fuel servo) is the fuel selector valve.
So far alot of effort (and $$$) have been spent with no solution.
I hate to spend big $$$ on a now or rebuilt fuel servo and again find the
same problem afterward. Ideas? HELP!
My airplane is stuck at a small airfield in the middle of nowhere...please
help.
BTW, I took the airplane to High Speed Composites in Ft. Pierce, FL to have
this fixed as well as some gear work done. I will never take my plane back
there.
Jeff
_____
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail
<http://o.aolcdn.com/cdn.webmail.aol.com/mailtour/aol/en-us/index.htm?ncid=A
OLAOF00020000000970> !
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Glasair III Engine/Fuel Problem |
| From: | darnpilot(at)aol.com |
David:
The email address bounced.? Do you have another?
Thank you.
Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: David McNeill <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Sent: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 11:48 pm
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Glasair III Engine/Fuel Problem
I suggest you contact the field rep for the Seattle area assuming your engine is
a Lycoming. He is Brian Costello at BCostello(at)Lycoming.testron.com.
?
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of darnpilot(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 8:34 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Glasair III Engine/Fuel Problem
Hello:
I cannot get the Glasair forum to work, so please indulge me if you will.
?
?
I've recently purchased a Glasair III.? I have been having continued problems with
a very rough running engine.?
It will run fine for 15 minutes then start running rough and losing power.?
It has even quit running completely.?
The fuel system has been cleaned (injectors, fuel distributor, gascolator and filter,
and screen filters).? It still has the same problem.?
It will run fine for awhile, then very rough or not at all (on the ground and in
the air).?
There is no obvious problem that we can find as everything previously mentioned
has been double checked again.?
Problem occurs with or without the boost pump on.? The last time the engine would
run at 17" MP but no more.
?
The latest "guess" is the fuel servo.? The only thing that has not been checked
(other than the fuel servo) is the fuel selector valve.?
So far alot of effort (and $$$) have been spent with no solution.?
I hate to spend big $$$ on a now or rebuilt fuel servo and again find the same
problem afterward.? Ideas?? HELP!?
?
My airplane is stuck at a small airfield in the middle of nowhere...please help.
?
BTW, I took the airplane to High Speed Composites in Ft. Pierce, FL to have this
fixed as well as some gear work done.? I will never take my plane back there.
?
Jeff
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail!
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <millstees(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Glasair III Engine/Fuel Problem |
I think the email address should include textron not testron
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of darnpilot(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 11:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Glasair III Engine/Fuel Problem
David:
The email address bounced. Do you have another?
Thank you.
Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: David McNeill <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Sent: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 11:48 pm
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Glasair III Engine/Fuel Problem
I suggest you contact the field rep for the Seattle area assuming your
engine is a Lycoming. He is Brian Costello at
BCostello(at)Lycoming.testron.com.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
] On Behalf Of
darnpilot(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 8:34 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Glasair III Engine/Fuel Problem
Hello:
I cannot get the Glasair forum to work, so please indulge me if you will.
I've recently purchased a Glasair III. I have been having continued
problems with a very rough running engine.
It will run fine for 15 minutes then start running rough and losing power.
It has even quit running completely.
The fuel system has been cleaned (injectors, fuel distributor, gascolator
and filter, and screen filters). It still has the same problem.
It will run fine for awhile, then very rough or not at all (on the ground
and in the air).
There is no obvious problem that we can find as everything previously
mentioned has been double checked again.
Problem occurs with or without the boost pump on. The last time the engine
would run at 17" MP but no more.
The latest "guess" is the fuel servo. The only thing that has not been
checked (other than the fuel servo) is the fuel selector valve.
So far alot of effort (and $$$) have been spent with no solution.
I hate to spend big $$$ on a now or rebuilt fuel servo and again find the
same problem afterward. Ideas? HELP!
My airplane is stuck at a small airfield in the middle of nowhere...please
help.
BTW, I took the airplane to High Speed Composites in Ft. Pierce, FL to have
this fixed as well as some gear work done. I will never take my plane back
there.
Jeff
_____
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail
<http://o.aolcdn.com/cdn.webmail.aol.com/mailtour/aol/en-us/index.htm?ncid=A
OLAOF00020000000970> !
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com
">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | Glasair III Engine/Fuel Problem |
Jeff,
Assuming a Lycoming IO-540 with Bendix fuel injection:
Make sure you have around 25 PSI fuel pressure between the engine fuel pump
and the servo. The pressure should be about the same with the boost pump on
or off, or the engine off with boost pump on. If you don't have that, fix
it first.
Next if you disconnect the fuel hose at the servo and run it into a bucket,
you should be getting well over 40 gallons per hour of fuel flow. You can
measure on the fuel flow gauge or with a stopwatch and a gas can. Be
careful, it's a lot of fuel and it burns very well.
If the fuel flow is low, you may have a blocked hose, filter, inlet, or fuel
valve. Check the finger screens in the fuel tanks. Same on all tanks?
If you have fuel pressure and fuel flow before the servo, the problem is
most likely the servo, but also check for a blocked (dirty) air filter,
dirty servo filter (inside the servo).
There are lots of other possibilities. If you want to give me a call
tomorrow I'll try to help out.
Good Luck,
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of darnpilot(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 8:34 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Glasair III Engine/Fuel Problem
Hello:
I cannot get the Glasair forum to work, so please indulge me if you will.
I've recently purchased a Glasair III. I have been having continued
problems with a very rough running engine.
It will run fine for 15 minutes then start running rough and losing power.
It has even quit running completely.
The fuel system has been cleaned (injectors, fuel distributor, gascolator
and filter, and screen filters). It still has the same problem.
It will run fine for awhile, then very rough or not at all (on the ground
and in the air).
There is no obvious problem that we can find as everything previously
mentioned has been double checked again.
Problem occurs with or without the boost pump on. The last time the engine
would run at 17" MP but no more.
The latest "guess" is the fuel servo. The only thing that has not been
checked (other than the fuel servo) is the fuel selector valve.
So far alot of effort (and $$$) have been spent with no solution.
I hate to spend big $$$ on a now or rebuilt fuel servo and again find the
same problem afterward. Ideas? HELP!
My airplane is stuck at a small airfield in the middle of nowhere...please
help.
BTW, I took the airplane to High Speed Composites in Ft. Pierce, FL to have
this fixed as well as some gear work done. I will never take my plane back
there.
Jeff
_____
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail
<http://o.aolcdn.com/cdn.webmail.aol.com/mailtour/aol/en-us/index.htm?ncid=A
OLAOF00020000000970> !
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Reality Check - cost of an RV10 |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I read with great interest Mr. VanG's article in R-Vartor recently. Kuddos to him
on the completion of the plane. I do want to take issue however with the cost
estimates at the end of the article. There is no way on earth that you or I
can build an RV10 equiped like his for $110-115K - it is simply not going to
happen. Lets run the numbers:
1. Basic Q/B kit is going to run $48,325
2. Delivery (it will not levitate to your door) min $ 2,500
3. If you or I want an Aero Sport IO-540 min $40,000
4. Lighting and Strobes and basic electrical $ 2,000
5. Fuel pump and fuel filter - fuel sender $1,000
6. Hartzel 2 blade prop (freight included above) $6,260
7. Paint it yourself materials only $2,000
8. Interior (do you want it to look nice) minimum $2,000
9. Firewall forward kit from vans (no throtle quad) $6,000
_________
Total $110,000
OPPPPS - we forgot avionics - If you want a minimal
VFR panel (ex Dynon - Garmin 296 - Radio - TXP = min $10,000
Van's Panel works out to $16,000 at normal retail prices putting his plane out
there at a MINIMUM of $126,000
This includes NO FRILLS - NO TOOLS - No builders assist (classes)- no special
options like Flap position system - no gascolator - no screw ups where you need
to replace parts - nothing extra
In the real world the Q/B plane will cost you a minimum of $135K and more likely
$140-150. You have to buy tools - you will need builders assist - you will need
to hire a painter or do a Macco paint job on a $150K airplane. You will want
a nice interior and you will need a decent panel when you are going 200mph.
Vans make a great plane at a decent price, but you can get an off the shelf LSA
for 100K. An RV10 kit is not the same thing. DO NOT START THIS PROJECT WITHOUT
A MINIMUM BUDGET OF $130,000
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141449#141449
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Reality Check - cost of an RV10 |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
Amen
- and throw in a crappy US dollar exchange rate of say $0.75 on average
over the kit purchase price, and then overseas freight + GST at 10% on
top of the lot and the pain is far greater! If you want all new parts
(engine etc) don't expect to get by for less than $200k in Oz - unless
the Aussie dollar continues its drive above US$0.90 ;->
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Wednesday, 24 October 2007 2:56 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Reality Check - cost of an RV10
I read with great interest Mr. VanG's article in R-Vartor recently.
Kuddos to him on the completion of the plane. I do want to take issue
however with the cost estimates at the end of the article. There is no
way on earth that you or I can build an RV10 equiped like his for
$110-115K - it is simply not going to happen. Lets run the numbers:
1. Basic Q/B kit is going to run $48,325
2. Delivery (it will not levitate to your door) min $ 2,500
3. If you or I want an Aero Sport IO-540 min $40,000
4. Lighting and Strobes and basic electrical $ 2,000
5. Fuel pump and fuel filter - fuel sender $1,000
6. Hartzel 2 blade prop (freight included above) $6,260
7. Paint it yourself materials only $2,000
8. Interior (do you want it to look nice) minimum $2,000
9. Firewall forward kit from vans (no throtle quad) $6,000
_________
Total
$110,000
OPPPPS - we forgot avionics - If you want a minimal VFR panel (ex Dynon
- Garmin 296 - Radio - TXP = min $10,000
Van's Panel works out to $16,000 at normal retail prices putting his
plane out there at a MINIMUM of $126,000
This includes NO FRILLS - NO TOOLS - No builders assist (classes)- no
special options like Flap position system - no gascolator - no screw ups
where you need to replace parts - nothing extra
In the real world the Q/B plane will cost you a minimum of $135K and
more likely $140-150. You have to buy tools - you will need builders
assist - you will need to hire a painter or do a Macco paint job on a
$150K airplane. You will want a nice interior and you will need a decent
panel when you are going 200mph.
Vans make a great plane at a decent price, but you can get an off the
shelf LSA for 100K. An RV10 kit is not the same thing. DO NOT START THIS
PROJECT WITHOUT A MINIMUM BUDGET OF $130,000
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141449#141449
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)suddenlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: cabin top trimming |
I strongly concur with both Jesse (about being real cautious installing
the cabin top without the tailcone attached) and John re: doing the
wheel pants, gear leg and intersection fairings.
DON'T wait until you have the wings installed to do the pants, gear legs
and intersection fairings. You won't like having to work under the
wings. In addition, it is tons easier to level the fuselage (front and
back and side to side with it seating on a work bench with the gear legs
and wheels off the floor than trying to get it all level with jacks
after the engine is hung and the wings are on.
You want to set the "level" of the wheel pants in the flying mode, i.e.
with all the weight off both the nose gear and the main gear. If you
wait to the section in the plans where Van's calls out the install of
the wheel pants you will need to jack up both wings, and put an engine
hoist on the engine to life up the nose wheel off the floor in order to
attempt to level the airplane for flight mode.
Russ Daves
N710RV - #40044 175+ hours and climbing
What an airplane!!!
From: "John Hilger" <ninepapa(at)bendbroadband.com>
Subject: Re: cabin top trimming
Chris
You might consider doing the wheel pants, gear leg, and
intersection
fairings.
That might keep you busy for a while.
John
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Hukill
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 9:03 AM
Subject: RV10-List: cabin top trimming
I am to the point of attaching the tailcone, however I won't
have room
for the combined length of the assembly in my hanger for a few
months.
So I am considering doing the trimming and fitting of the cabin
top
without the tailcone attached. Besides not being able to fit and
drill
the aft flange of the top, is there any reason I couldn't fit the
rest
of the top? Has anyone that has gone before me have any input on
this?
Thanks
Chris Hukill
potential plan deviant
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Glasair III Engine/Fuel Problem |
Is your plane still in the Fort Pierce area? If it is still there I
will be glad to help you with tools, my time and a second opinion.
Rob Kermanj.
On Oct 23, 2007, at 11:34 PM, darnpilot(at)aol.com wrote:
> Hello:
>
>
> I cannot get the Glasair forum to work, so please indulge me if you
> will.
>
>
> I've recently purchased a Glasair III. I have been having
> continued problems with a very rough running engine.
>
> It will run fine for 15 minutes then start running rough and losing
> power.
>
> It has even quit running completely.
>
> The fuel system has been cleaned (injectors, fuel distributor,
> gascolator and filter, and screen filters). It still has the same
> problem.
>
> It will run fine for awhile, then very rough or not at all (on the
> ground and in the air).
>
> There is no obvious problem that we can find as everything
> previously mentioned has been double checked again.
>
> Problem occurs with or without the boost pump on. The last time
> the engine would run at 17" MP but no more.
>
>
> The latest "guess" is the fuel servo. The only thing that has not
> been checked (other than the fuel servo) is the fuel selector valve.
>
> So far alot of effort (and $$$) have been spent with no solution.
>
> I hate to spend big $$$ on a now or rebuilt fuel servo and again
> find the same problem afterward. Ideas? HELP!
>
>
> My airplane is stuck at a small airfield in the middle of
> nowhere...please help.
>
>
> BTW, I took the airplane to High Speed Composites in Ft. Pierce, FL
> to have this fixed as well as some gear work done. I will never
> take my plane back there.
>
>
> Jeff
>
> Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
They're quite a few tasks the kids can help, depending on their age.
My kids have helped buck rivets, dimple, and debur. You always can use a
third hand and there is always a mess to be cleaned up. My son (now 18) has
done many of the building tasks on his own, like cutting parts on the band
saw or match drilling. He has also used the squeezer to set rivets.
When I was riveting the horizontal stab, my daughter help with the clecos
(after this I bought a pneumatic cleco gun) and putting rivets into the
holes. This made things go a little faster since my son and I didn't have
to put tools down.
I have a DRDT-2 and my wife even enjoys dimpling. She did most of the
Vert. Stab.
You'll be able find many jobs they can do.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of tganster
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 10:36 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Family project
Hello all,
I have been lurking for 2 1/2 years and have finally jumped the fence. The
10 empennage will be here Thurs. I live in a rural area of WI about an hour
west of Green Bay with my wife and large family (9 kids). This brings up my
first question. What have others done to include their families in the
building process. My children are all very exited to help out in some way. I
had some discussion with Dan Lloyd at airventure and have read Tim's web
sight over concerning this matter, but would appreciate other comments.
Tom Ganster CLI
40778 Just getting started
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141424#141424
__________ NOD32 2612 (20071024) Information __________
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Glasair III Engine/Fuel Problem |
| From: | darnpilot(at)aol.com |
1) Ron, please give me your contact info.?
2) The engine is an IO-540 with Bendix servo.? (Dave, I'll call you.)
Thank you.
Jeff
904-234-8718
-----Original Message-----
From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 6:54 am
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Glasair III Engine/Fuel Problem
Is your plane still in the Fort Pierce area? ?If it is still there I will be glad
to help you with tools, my time and a second opinion.
Rob Kermanj.
??
On Oct 23, 2007, at 11:34 PM, darnpilot(at)aol.com wrote:
Hello:
I cannot get the Glasair forum to work, so please indulge me if you will.
?
?
I've recently purchased a Glasair III.? I have been having continued problems with
a very rough running engine.?
It will run fine for 15 minutes then start running rough and losing power.?
It has even quit running completely.?
The fuel system has been cleaned (injectors, fuel distributor, gascolator and filter,
and screen filters).? It still has the same problem.?
It will run fine for awhile, then very rough or not at all (on the ground and in
the air).?
There is no obvious problem that we can find as everything previously mentioned
has been double checked again.?
Problem occurs with or without the boost pump on.? The last time the engine would
run at 17" MP but no more.
?
The latest "guess" is the fuel servo.? The only thing that has not been checked
(other than the fuel servo) is the fuel selector valve.?
So far alot of effort (and $$$) have been spent with no solution.?
I hate to spend big $$$ on a now or rebuilt fuel servo and again find the same
problem afterward.? Ideas?? HELP!?
?
My airplane is stuck at a small airfield in the middle of nowhere...please help.
?
BTW, I took the airplane to High Speed Composites in Ft. Pierce, FL to have this
fixed as well as some gear work done.? I will never take my plane back there.
?
Jeff
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail!
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
Congrats Tom, and we look forward to hearing about your progress. If you
want to have your wife talk to Trish feel free to call and they can
brainstorm on how each team member can participate. Each of our kids got
to sign the inside of every structure they worked on, with name, date
and age. Even the younger kids can participate by handing tools, sorting
pieces etc.
Give us a call, and I would be happy to fly up and give you guys some
motivational rides and get everyone excited about the adventure ahead!
Dan
N289DT RV10E Flying
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of tganster
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 10:36 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Family project
Hello all,
I have been lurking for 2 1/2 years and have finally jumped the fence.
The 10 empennage will be here Thurs. I live in a rural area of WI about
an hour west of Green Bay with my wife and large family (9 kids). This
brings up my first question. What have others done to include their
families in the building process. My children are all very exited to
help out in some way. I had some discussion with Dan Lloyd at airventure
and have read Tim's web sight over concerning this matter, but would
appreciate other comments.
Tom Ganster CLI
40778 Just getting
started
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141424#141424
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Glasair III Engine/Fuel Problem |
| From: | darnpilot(at)aol.com |
The real goofy part about all this is its intermittent. So far we've been lucky
that every time its happened near an airport.
I'll have to check the Glasair manual to see where all the filters are, but we've
checked the servo screen, divider, injectors, gascolator, and replaced fuel
filter. Have not checked fuel selector or if there are any screens there or at
the tanks.
Air is the other part of the equation, and now that its mentioned, I do not thinks
its been checked. I guess the air filter and alternate air are the only points
to check?
Have not check the fuel flow into a bucket (have flowed the injectors - OK). The
difficult problem is the intermittent nature. Fuel flow and pressure seems OK
on the gauge (on the ground when the OK runups are done), but to be honest,
when you're at 800' with a badly missing engine, gauges are secondary to getting
on the ground. Boost pump makes no difference when it happens.
Are there screens at the selector? Any other screens in the fuel system?
Engine has 200 hours, built in 1990 and checked again in 1994. The fuel had crap
and water in it when I picked it up, but its been cleaned up. That's the reason
we've suspected fuel contamination and spent a lot of time getting that cleaned
up, but air is something we must check too. I'm not a mechanic, but I wonder
why they didn't check that too (or did they)?
Remember before taking to the air (initially and after each "fix") we've done complete
high power runups and all was fine. The engine ran good in the air on
three occasions for about 15 minutes (taxi, run-up, takeoff, climb, cruise, and
on one occasion - descent and touch and go) before it started the roughness/misfiring/loss
of power. Mag checks are good.
One more item: The time it happened orbiting the field, we got to 2500' before
it started again. I reduced power to 17.5" and it ran fine, but it would take
no more throttle. Orbiting at 17.5" I checked boost pump/magnetos - worked fine.
I did not check FF/pressure as the EI 800 gauges on this plane seem unreliable
(plus I probably forgot in the commotion).
Engine compressions are between 62-72. Attitude seems to make no difference (mine
or the airplanes).
Help?!?
Jeff
904-234-8718
-----Original Message-----
From: darnpilot(at)aol.com
Sent: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 8:29 am
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Glasair III Engine/Fuel Problem
?
?
1) Ron, please give me your contact info.?
?
2) The engine is an IO-540 with Bendix servo.? (Dave, I'll call you.)
?
Thank you.
?
Jeff
904-234-8718
-----Original Message-----
From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 6:54 am
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Glasair III Engine/Fuel Problem
Is your plane still in the Fort Pierce area? ?If it is still there I will be glad
to help you with tools, my time and a second opinion.
Rob Kermanj.
??
On Oct 23, 2007, at 11:34 PM, darnpilot(at)aol.com wrote:
Hello:
I cannot get the Glasair forum to work, so please indulge me if you will.
?
?
I've recently purchased a Glasair III.? I have been having continued problems with
a very rough running engine.?
It will run fine for 15 minutes then start running rough and losing power.?
It has even quit running completely.?
The fuel system has been cleaned (injectors, fuel distributor, gascolator and filter,
and screen filters).? It still has the same problem.?
It will run fine for awhile, then very rough or not at all (on the ground and in
the air).?
There is no obvious problem that we can find as everything previously mentioned
has been double checked again.?
Problem occurs with or without the boost pump on.? The last time the engine would
run at 17" MP but no more.
?
The latest "guess" is the fuel servo.? The only thing that has not been checked
(other than the fuel servo) is the fuel selector valve.?
So far alot of effort (and $$$) have been spent with no solution.?
I hate to spend big $$$ on a now or rebuilt fuel servo and again find the same
problem afterward.? Ideas?? HELP!?
?
My airplane is stuck at a small airfield in the middle of nowhere...please help.
?
BTW, I took the airplane to High Speed Composites in Ft. Pierce, FL to have this
fixed as well as some gear work done.? I will never take my plane back there.
?
Jeff
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail!
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hurst <johnh38(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Pump & Flo-Scan wiring ? |
I am installing the fuel system and am wondering if I should use Molex conn
ectors or some other type of connector on the fuel pump and Flo-scan units
for easy installation & removal (if necessary down the road). Any recommen
dations before I finalize this area? Or would I be better off using butt co
nnectors with these wires? I want to make the connections as easy as possi
ble when the time comes to wiring.=0A =0Ajohn=0A40102
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Pump & Flo-Scan wiring ? |
I put molex connectors just as you have described. Single pull disconnects all
wires at once instead of two or three pulls depending on the number of connectors.
-----Original Message-----
>From: John Hurst <johnh38(at)yahoo.com>
>Sent: Oct 24, 2007 12:22 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Pump & Flo-Scan wiring ?
>
>I am installing the fuel system and am wondering if I should use Molex connectors
or some other type of connector on the fuel pump and Flo-scan units for easy
installation & removal (if necessary down the road). Any recommendations before
I finalize this area? Or would I be better off using butt connectors with
these wires? I want to make the connections as easy as possible when the time
comes to wiring.
>
>john
>40102
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Seat rivets LP4-3 vs CS4-4 |
ok. thanks for the replies. i think i will take some liberties in this
area, and for once, do a small mod intentionally versus the other kind. ;)
Jae
40533
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: WD-1002 / F1001B / F1040 Fuse channel rivet holes |
Les... strange that this gap should exist. i don't recall having any
issues here and with the rivets in, everything is tight. a picture would
help.
Jae
40533
Les Kearney wrote:
>
> Hi Again
>
> I heard back from Ken at Vans. According to Ken, the engineering
> group is not concerned about the 3/32 edge clearance that I achieved.
>
> I also have a gap between the F1001B and the F1040 fuse channel at the
> forward end that I dont think will close when riveted. They said I
> could shim the gap if desired.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
> #40643 Singing the Section 29 Blues.
>
> *
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | cabin top trimming |
| From: | "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> |
I'm doing the wheel fairings right now, and I can tell you it would be a
real bummer to do it with the engine and wings on. I've got the
airplane up in the air pretty easily right now with no engine on, and no
wings. I actually went down to my local Harbor Freight Tools and bought
the scissor lift table (on sale for $199! Add that to the cost of
building..) and it makes it much easier to put the plane up and back
down. I think it's this one here:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=93116
I actually modified it by cutting down the push handle and mounting it
so it lays flat instead of upright. Worked like a charm. Now I can
position it under the aircraft with the appropriate amount of padding,
and raise and lower the plane to my heart's delight!
I've already hit my head on the wing spar a few times, but I'm happier
to dent my head than the wing skin. :-)
cj
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 2:16 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cabin top trimming
I strongly concur with both Jesse (about being real cautious installing
the cabin top without the tailcone attached) and John re: doing the
wheel pants, gear leg and intersection fairings.
DON'T wait until you have the wings installed to do the pants, gear legs
and intersection fairings. You won't like having to work under the
wings. In addition, it is tons easier to level the fuselage (front and
back and side to side with it seating on a work bench with the gear legs
and wheels off the floor than trying to get it all level with jacks
after the engine is hung and the wings are on.
You want to set the "level" of the wheel pants in the flying mode, i.e.
with all the weight off both the nose gear and the main gear. If you
wait to the section in the plans where Van's calls out the install of
the wheel pants you will need to jack up both wings, and put an engine
hoist on the engine to life up the nose wheel off the floor in order to
attempt to level the airplane for flight mode.
Russ Daves
N710RV - #40044 175+ hours and climbing
What an airplane!!!
Time:
From:
"John Hilger"
Subject:
Re: cabin top trimming
Chris
You might consider doing the wheel pants, gear leg, and
intersection
fairings.
That might keep you busy for a while.
John
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Hukill
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 9:03 AM
Subject: RV10-List: cabin top trimming
I am to the point of attaching the tailcone, however I won't
have room
for the combined length of the assembly in my hanger for a few
months.
So I am considering doing the trimming and fitting of the cabin
top
without the tailcone attached. Besides not being able to fit and
drill
the aft flange of the top, is there any reason I couldn't fit the
rest
of the top? Has anyone that has gone before me have any input on
this?
Thanks
Chris Hukill
potential plan deviant
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LES KEARNEY <Kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: WD-1002 / F1001B / F1040 Fuse channel rivet holes |
Hi Jae
Perhaps the rivets will close the gap=2E However=2C I am used to seeing
parts sit flush befor rivetting=2E In any event=2C I will try to post a
picture later tonight=2E
Cheers
Les
----- Original Message -----
From=3A Jae Chang =3Cjc-matronics=5Frv10=40jline=2Ecom=3E
Date=3A Wednesday=2C October 24=2C 2007 12=3A05 pm
Subject=3A Re=3A FW=3A RV10-List=3A WD-1002 / F1001B / F1040 Fuse channe
l rivet holes
To=3A rv10-list=40matronics=2Ecom
=3E --=3E RV10-List message posted by=3A Jae Chang =3Cjc-
=3E matronics=5Frv10=40jline=2Ecom=3E
=3E Les=2E=2E=2E strange that this gap should exist=2E i don=27t recall
having
=3E any
=3E issues here and with the rivets in=2C everything is tight=2E a
=3E picture would
=3E help=2E
=3E
=3E Jae
=3E 40533
=3E
=3E Les Kearney wrote=3A
=3E =3E
=3E =3E Hi Again
=3E =3E
=3E =3E I heard back from Ken at Van=92s=2E According to Ken=2C the
=3E engineering
=3E =3E group is not concerned about the 3/32 edge clearance that I
=3E achieved=2E=3E
=3E =3E I also have a gap between the F1001B and the F1040 fuse
=3E channel at the
=3E =3E forward end that I don=92t think will close when riveted=2E They
=3E said I
=3E =3E could shim the gap if desired=2E
=3E =3E
=3E =3E Cheers
=3E =3E
=3E =3E Les
=3E =3E
=3E =3E =2340643 ' Singing the Section 29 Blues=85=2E
=3E =3E
=3E =3E *
=3E =3E *
=3E
=3E =5F-======================
========================
=============
=3E =5F-= - The
=3E RV10-List Email Forum -
=3E =5F-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
=3E =5F-= the many List utilities such as the Subscriptions page=2C
=3E =5F-= Archive Search =26 Download=2C 7-Day Browse=2C Chat=2C FAQ=2C
=3E =5F-= Photoshare=2C and much much more=3A
=3E =5F-= --=3E http=3A//www=2Ematronics=2Ecom/Navigator=3FRV10-List
=3E =5F-======================
========================
=============
=3E =5F-
=3E = - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
=3E =5F-= Same great content now also available via the Web Forums!
=3E =5F-= --=3E http=3A//forums=2Ematronics=2Ecom
=3E =5F-======================
========================
=============
=3E
=3E
=3E
=3E
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Seat rivets LP4-3 vs CS4-4 |
I also did mine with C/S rivets just because the cargo floor was done with c/s
rivets. It is smooth so get the velco out.
Here's a question for the group and that is, with abby's light grey interior
what kind and color interior paint did you use? Same for instrument panel. Tim
said he mixed at paint store?
We"ll see everyone at copperstate I hope.
Pictures Please.
Patrick Thyssen
I love my OP Tech oops Aerosonics
Jae Chang wrote:
ok. thanks for the replies. i think i will take some liberties in this
area, and for once, do a small mod intentionally versus the other kind. ;)
Jae
40533
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | New product annoucement |
| From: | "=?utf-8?B?Qm9iIE5ld21hbg==?=" <rcnewman(at)mycingular.blackberry.net> |
Fellow RV builders,
I'm pleased to annouce we have added two new models to the Safety-Trim product
family. In addition to our standard features of time limited servo control,
adjustable speed control, emergency reverse and simplified pilot/co-pilot wiring
we now have models with that provide 2 user adjustable preset speeds. This
feature allows you to control your trim response based on aircraft performance.
This feature is especially useful in aircraft with a large performance envelope
such as the RVs.
For all the details please visit our website. www.tcwtech.com
Thanks,
Bob Newman. Rv-10
#40176
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Reality Check - cost of an RV10 |
I think if you ask Van and the people who put the estimator numbers toge
ther, they will tell you that NUMBER does NOT include a NEW motor or $50
-100K in Avionics. That estimator will get you a Basic VFR aircraft th
at performs the same as a $300k RV10. Van's philosophy for building HBA
C has not changed...........Great Performance, Great Economy, at a Great
Price. It is the people building these planes that make the conscious
decisions to spend more for NEW vs used or rebuilt that refute Van's num
bers. The neat thing about Van's kits and building an EXP is the abilit
y to spend as much as you want IF you want too. I find it hard to tell
a guy who has made millions over 35 years that he is misleading his cust
omer. But is it a free speech world........and anyone can disagree or e
ven call him a liar. I call Van the smartest guy in GA aviation. The r
est of us only wish we had done what he has done............of course lo
ok at the posts on this site, on VAF, and many others. Thousands of us
are telling Van everyday HOW to run his business........thank God he has
learned to listen to only the important suggestions and comments. Plea
se don't ruin peoples dream because you don't have the same philosopy as
Van on the RV10.
Off the soapbox and into the plane going fishing in SD.
DEAN 805HL
_____________________________________________________________
It's never been easier to change your name. Click now!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2111/fc/Ioyw6iif5faL9Q7cunq7JvTicQAO
6EP3ujYvyofecXzmYhfojhPd6U/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Reality Check - cost of an RV10 |
Dean,
After admiring your RV-10 I can see where you followed Van's great economy
philosohpy to a Tee!!=C2- :)
Rick S.
----- Original Message -----
From: ddddsp1(at)juno.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 2:20:36 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Reality Check - cost of an RV10
I think if you ask Van and the people who put the estimator numbers togethe
r, they will tell you that NUMBER does NOT include a NEW motor or $50-100K
in Avionics.=C2-=C2- That estimator will get you a Basic VFR aircraft t
hat performs the same as a $300k RV10.=C2- Van's philosophy for building
HBAC has not changed...........Great Performance, Great Economy, at a Great
Price.=C2- It is the people building these planes that make the consciou
s decisions to spend more for NEW vs used or rebuilt that refute Van's numb
ers.=C2- The neat thing about Van's kits and building an EXP is the abili
ty to spend as much as you want IF you want too.=C2- I find it hard to te
ll a guy who has made millions over 35 years that he is misleading his cust
omer.=C2- But is it a free speech world........and anyone can disagree or
even call him a liar.=C2- I call Van the smartest guy in GA aviation.=C2
- The rest of us only wish we had done what he has done............of cou
rse look at the posts on this site, on VAF, and many others.=C2- Thousand
s of us are telling Van everyday HOW to run his business........thank God h
e has learned to listen to only the important suggestions and comments.=C2
- Please don't ruin peoples dream because you don't have the same philoso
py as Van on the RV10.
Off the soapbox and into the plane going fishing in SD.
DEAN 805HL
_____________________________________________________________
It's never been easier to change your name. Click now!
=======
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
I installed the Safeair static ports
(see Pics )
I've read/heard that the ports themselves need to project slightly
beyond the skin of the aircraft in order to function properly. These
project slightly, BUT VERY slightly.
1. Am I going to have a problem w/ accuracy in instruments?
2. Anybody flying with these have any experience?
3. If they are problematic? Is there something that can be done from the
outside of the a/c to remedy/fix or am I going to have to recruit and
elf to crawl into the tailcone for me?
It seems I recall John Cox posting some pics of a Cirus installation
where they actually had afixed a wedge shaped piece of metal just
forward of the port itself. Could a machined metal disc be affixed to
the outside of the skin over the existing port?
4. If replacement is in order what has experience led people
THANKS
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Static ports Picture link |
looks like the picture didn't come through. here's a link
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%20The%20Home%20Stretch/slides/DSC05502.html
Deems
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Static ports |
The issue with the protruding height is not only the port configuration but the
thickness of the paint. I smoothed the rivets holding the port in place, and
did not locate a rivet in front of the port in-line with the airflow. Next, I
stuck a round toothpick in the static port during painting. After painting the
hole was carefully smoothed at the opening.
End result was no protrusion nor static source problems.
Bill DeRouchey
N939SB, flying
Deems Davis wrote:
I installed the Safeair static ports
(see Pics )
I've read/heard that the ports themselves need to project slightly
beyond the skin of the aircraft in order to function properly. These
project slightly, BUT VERY slightly.
1. Am I going to have a problem w/ accuracy in instruments?
2. Anybody flying with these have any experience?
3. If they are problematic? Is there something that can be done from the
outside of the a/c to remedy/fix or am I going to have to recruit and
elf to crawl into the tailcone for me?
It seems I recall John Cox posting some pics of a Cirus installation
where they actually had afixed a wedge shaped piece of metal just
forward of the port itself. Could a machined metal disc be affixed to
the outside of the skin over the existing port?
4. If replacement is in order what has experience led people
THANKS
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick ONeill" <poneill(at)irealms.com> |
That looks nearly identical to the Rivethead Aero static ports I installed:
http://www.noimnotcrazy.com/gallery/details.php?image_id=1870
I posted a similar question to the list a month or so ago, and several
people replied off list that the installation should work fine.
You'll be flying long before me so I can't help with the accuracy issue, but
I'll be eager to hear if you have any problems.
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 3:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Static ports
I installed the Safeair static ports
(see Pics )
I've read/heard that the ports themselves need to project slightly
beyond the skin of the aircraft in order to function properly. These
project slightly, BUT VERY slightly.
1. Am I going to have a problem w/ accuracy in instruments?
2. Anybody flying with these have any experience?
3. If they are problematic? Is there something that can be done from the
outside of the a/c to remedy/fix or am I going to have to recruit and
elf to crawl into the tailcone for me?
It seems I recall John Cox posting some pics of a Cirus installation
where they actually had afixed a wedge shaped piece of metal just
forward of the port itself. Could a machined metal disc be affixed to
the outside of the skin over the existing port?
4. If replacement is in order what has experience led people
THANKS
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Reality Check - cost of an RV10 |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Hard to disagree with any one post on this subject - all are making good points.
If you want to build an RV-10 and REALLY want to come in as inexpensively as
possible, you would go slow build all the way and be ready to pounce on a used
engine when the right deal comes along. Going slow build saves 11-12k over
a quick build, and even in today's environment it's not impossible to find a
parallel valve Lyc 540 for 20k or so. Of course, slow build will take longer
to build than if you go quick build, and the engine would have some time on it.
Engine may also be carbureted instead of fuel injected and/or be low compression
(235 HP version instead of 260 HP). Multiple people have gone this route
with engines and done very well! Those 2 factors alone chop 31-32k off the
price tag! There have also been people that have used different (non-BA) props
and saved another couple thousand.
Bottom line: it's possible to be very frugal and end up with an RV-10 for a lot
less money than some of the numbers thrown out. It would likely be a VFR cruiser
but would fly just like all the other -10s. While many of us set out to
build for IFR with datalink weather, traffic, etc. from the start, keep in mind
that Van's factory -10s are VFR only and they take one to every major airshow
in the country!
The points are also valid about going in with your (budget) eyes open. Figure
out what YOU want to end up with, make a budget to account for that and stick
with it. Can you live with the stock pitot tube made from aluminum tubing (supplied
with the kit) or do you "need" to upgrade to the stainless steel tubing
version? Or maybe spend a few hundred and get the Gretz heated pitot tube -
don't forget the $100 mount! Of course, you could get a certified pitot for
just another few hundred (and you'll still need a Gretz mount)...
There are many of these decision points along the way. The key to building as
inexpensively as possible requires a lot of discipline and a game plan from the
start.
For the record, I am not in the Dean Sombke frugal club but I'm sure that his plane
will carry about the same and cruise about the same speed as mine or anybody
else's!
Bob #40105/N442PM
Only another month or two...
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141598#141598
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Stall warning location |
| From: | "plevenda(at)jvlv.lv" <paulevenda(at)mac.com> |
Well, count one for "candle moth syndrome". I pulled out my first quickbuild wing
yesterday, which was the right wing. I set it on the table, removed the bottom
skin and went to work. In the process, as I got around to the leading edge,
I noticed the two pre-drilled holes for the stall warning vane. So I flipped
to the page in the manual and went to work cutting out an access hole and the
slot for the vane. Only AFTER I had all that done did I remember I was working
on the right wing. It was also then that I noticed that Van's pre-driled holes
for the stall warning on BOTH wings. Oh and yes there is a caution note in
the manual, but like I said, "Candle Moth"
In all my years of flying I was never given a reason why the stall warning is traditionaly
on the left wing. So now do I accept an extra access hole, patch up
the slot on the right wing and start all over again on the left wing, or is
there any reason why the stall warning would not still work on the right wing
even though it is not in the traditional location.
--------
Paul Levenda
#40090
N974LV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141602#141602
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Stall warning location |
Paul,
Of course the safe answer is to ask Vans about it. However since the
airplane stalls so wonderfully benign and level I can't help but think the
AOA is the same on both sides at the same point so shouldn't matter which
side the sensor is on.
My unscientific opinion,
Marcus
40286
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of plevenda(at)jvlv.lv
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 7:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Stall warning location
Well, count one for "candle moth syndrome". I pulled out my first quickbuild
wing yesterday, which was the right wing. I set it on the table, removed the
bottom skin and went to work. In the process, as I got around to the leading
edge, I noticed the two pre-drilled holes for the stall warning vane. So I
flipped to the page in the manual and went to work cutting out an access
hole and the slot for the vane. Only AFTER I had all that done did I
remember I was working on the right wing. It was also then that I noticed
that Van's pre-driled holes for the stall warning on BOTH wings. Oh and yes
there is a caution note in the manual, but like I said, "Candle Moth"
In all my years of flying I was never given a reason why the stall warning
is traditionaly on the left wing. So now do I accept an extra access hole,
patch up the slot on the right wing and start all over again on the left
wing, or is there any reason why the stall warning would not still work on
the right wing even though it is not in the traditional location.
--------
Paul Levenda
#40090
N974LV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141602#141602
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Two pictures, one was Dr. Carl Cadwell's IVP and the other was the new
Cirrus S-22, Generation 3 sitting on the restaurant grass in downtown
Oshkosh this summer.
Sidenote - Dr. Cadwell went on to build the first ever flying
experimental Epic which started the 51% controversy. He is living life
- Large and loving our right to build.
John #600
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 3:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Static ports
I installed the Safeair static ports
(see Pics )
I've read/heard that the ports themselves need to project slightly
beyond the skin of the aircraft in order to function properly. These
project slightly, BUT VERY slightly.
1. Am I going to have a problem w/ accuracy in instruments?
2. Anybody flying with these have any experience?
3. If they are problematic? Is there something that can be done from the
outside of the a/c to remedy/fix or am I going to have to recruit and
elf to crawl into the tailcone for me?
It seems I recall John Cox posting some pics of a Cirus installation
where they actually had afixed a wedge shaped piece of metal just
forward of the port itself. Could a machined metal disc be affixed to
the outside of the skin over the existing port?
4. If replacement is in order what has experience led people
THANKS
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Reality Check - cost of an RV10 |
Actually since price of avgas went over $4 Vans doesn't take a -10 to
every show. Didn't bring anything but their -7 demo bird to
Copperstate last year. As a result wound up having to go to Aurora to
get to fly one...not a bad thing, just costly.
On 10/24/07, bcondrey wrote:
> Bottom line: it's possible to be very frugal and end up with an RV-10 for a lot
less money than some of the numbers thrown out. It would likely be a VFR cruiser
but would fly just like all the other -10s. While many of us set out to
build for IFR with datalink weather, traffic, etc. from the start, keep in mind
that Van's factory -10s are VFR only and they take one to every major airshow
in the country!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Static ports |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I was told that I should put an extra set (making 4) static ports with two dedicated
to the TruTrak autopilot. My A&P friend told me to rig each set with the
ports on each side of the tail cone and the connection fittings arching over
the top of the tail cone. this arch prevents water from accumulating in the fittings.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141648#141648
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Andair Fuel Valve - current sources? |
I've been reading the archives and otherwise trying to figure out a good
approach to replacing the stock valve. Generally seems like a good
idea. But many options exist and several approaches taken.
Purchasing the valve - direct from the factory I can get exactly what I
want in a few weeks if I only knew for sure
- Vans but with a fuel return and
possibly other options not needed for the IO540
- Neal?
I think I can cobble together an order or select an available valve
after some more research but I'd welcome recommendations. Seems like
everyone learned something after they made their decisions that would
point to some modification if doing it again.
I've seen Tim's and Deem's pages (Thanks again!) and the Aeroquip
hoses sound great. Anyone else have photos.
Bill "switching tasks everyday but with great joy" Watson
Durham NC
#40605
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Static ports |
One pair works fine. What you really want is ALTERNATE static in
the cockpit, as a pilot-controllable item. Your friend is
right about the tubing routing, however. An alternate static can
be installed many ways, but it's just a way of opening the static
line from inside the cockpit.
Tim
AirMike wrote:
>
> I was told that I should put an extra set (making 4) static ports
> with two dedicated to the TruTrak autopilot. My A&P friend told me to
> rig each set with the ports on each side of the tail cone and the
> connection fittings arching over the top of the tail cone. this arch
> prevents water from accumulating in the fittings.
>
> -------- OSH '08 or Bust
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141648#141648
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | cabin top trimming |
Thanks guys for the input. With your advise, I have decided to postpone
any further cabin trimming until I have room to attach the tailcone. (I
already trimmed for the windows, windshield, and bottom flanges, and
that's enough fiberglass work for awhile, anyway!). I had previously
done the wheel pant, gear leg fairing, and intersection fairing work. I
agree totally that these chores are much easier to do with the fuselage
hanging in the air, from my Aerolift, and working while comfortably
sitting. So, instead, I am starting to work on the QB wings, and now
begins the process of researching a whole different set of issues. This
list shall be of great use during this process as well, no doubt.
Chris Hukill
winging it
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
I have them and do not see an error, but I also do not have paint yet.
Tim did find that if you have them installed and paint both the plane
and the ports at the same time they still protrude, I think the problem
arises when a thick layer of primer/paint is in place causing the port
to not protrude as much. I made sure there was no primer between the
mating surfaces, and all layers of primer and paint will be applied
evenly on the outside.
After paint I will do more testing and follow up with the results.
Dan
N289DT RV10E
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 6:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Static ports
I installed the Safeair static ports
(see Pics )
I've read/heard that the ports themselves need to project slightly
beyond the skin of the aircraft in order to function properly. These
project slightly, BUT VERY slightly.
1. Am I going to have a problem w/ accuracy in instruments?
2. Anybody flying with these have any experience?
3. If they are problematic? Is there something that can be done from the
outside of the a/c to remedy/fix or am I going to have to recruit and
elf to crawl into the tailcone for me?
It seems I recall John Cox posting some pics of a Cirus installation
where they actually had afixed a wedge shaped piece of metal just
forward of the port itself. Could a machined metal disc be affixed to
the outside of the skin over the existing port?
4. If replacement is in order what has experience led people
THANKS
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Static ports |
Does anybody have a source for a valve that will open the static
system (1/4" Tygothane plastic tubing in our case) to cabin air?
normal position would be "closed" of course, so that the static
system is only open to the static ports. Alternate position would be
open to the cabin OR to both the cabin and the static ports.
I'd like to mount one on the far right side of the panel, but can't
seem to track down a suitable valve.
Any leads will be greatly appreciated.
John and Marlys Ackerman
40458 "finishing"
On Oct 25, 2007, at 4:05 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> One pair works fine. What you really want is ALTERNATE static in
> the cockpit, as a pilot-controllable item. Your friend is
> right about the tubing routing, however. An alternate static can
> be installed many ways, but it's just a way of opening the static
> line from inside the cockpit.
>
> Tim
>
>
> AirMike wrote:
>> I was told that I should put an extra set (making 4) static ports
>> with two dedicated to the TruTrak autopilot. My A&P friend told me to
>> rig each set with the ports on each side of the tail cone and the
>> connection fittings arching over the top of the tail cone. this arch
>> prevents water from accumulating in the fittings.
>> -------- OSH '08 or Bust
>> Read this topic online here:
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141648#141648
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> |
I see AIrFlow Performance is selling some stainless exhaust tips. Has
anyone considered or is using stainless tips from the automotive world?
TDT
40025
Tim Dawson-Townsend
Aurora Flight Sciences
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Static ports |
I used something very much like these:
http://www.valinonline.com/product.asp?prodid=2733
You can get them with various fittings, bulkhead mount them,
and they seal well and open with plenty opening to work
well.
My Beech's specified location for it was on the trim panel
by the pilots Left knee, similar to just above where
some Pipers put a fuel valve on the sidewall. I used that
concept for my -10 and mounted it just forward of the air
vents near the top of that trim panel. The lever is mounted
pretty close to the sidewall and it would be hard to snag
it open. I know some people put them in the actual panel,
but there's really no need to be THAT accessible. You
do want it in a place you can easily reach to activate
if your static ports freeze up.
http://www.flightsimaviation.com/data/FARS/part_23-1325.html
You need a heated pitot tube (FAR 23.1323d) and an alternate static
source (FAR 23.1325 (b)(3)) for IFR flight. Wonder how many
people building an IFR aircraft are taking this into consideration...
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
John Ackerman wrote:
>
> Does anybody have a source for a valve that will open the static system
> (1/4" Tygothane plastic tubing in our case) to cabin air?
> normal position would be "closed" of course, so that the static system
> is only open to the static ports. Alternate position would be open to
> the cabin OR to both the cabin and the static ports.
> I'd like to mount one on the far right side of the panel, but can't seem
> to track down a suitable valve.
> Any leads will be greatly appreciated.
> John and Marlys Ackerman
> 40458 "finishing"
>
>
> On Oct 25, 2007, at 4:05 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>>
>> One pair works fine. What you really want is ALTERNATE static in
>> the cockpit, as a pilot-controllable item. Your friend is
>> right about the tubing routing, however. An alternate static can
>> be installed many ways, but it's just a way of opening the static
>> line from inside the cockpit.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>
>> AirMike wrote:
>>> I was told that I should put an extra set (making 4) static ports
>>> with two dedicated to the TruTrak autopilot. My A&P friend told me to
>>> rig each set with the ports on each side of the tail cone and the
>>> connection fittings arching over the top of the tail cone. this arch
>>> prevents water from accumulating in the fittings.
>>> -------- OSH '08 or Bust
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141648#141648
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Static ports |
PS, search for "Toggle Valve".
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
John Ackerman wrote:
>
> Does anybody have a source for a valve that will open the static system
> (1/4" Tygothane plastic tubing in our case) to cabin air?
> normal position would be "closed" of course, so that the static system
> is only open to the static ports. Alternate position would be open to
> the cabin OR to both the cabin and the static ports.
> I'd like to mount one on the far right side of the panel, but can't seem
> to track down a suitable valve.
> Any leads will be greatly appreciated.
> John and Marlys Ackerman
> 40458 "finishing"
>
>
> On Oct 25, 2007, at 4:05 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>>
>> One pair works fine. What you really want is ALTERNATE static in
>> the cockpit, as a pilot-controllable item. Your friend is
>> right about the tubing routing, however. An alternate static can
>> be installed many ways, but it's just a way of opening the static
>> line from inside the cockpit.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>
>> AirMike wrote:
>>> I was told that I should put an extra set (making 4) static ports
>>> with two dedicated to the TruTrak autopilot. My A&P friend told me to
>>> rig each set with the ports on each side of the tail cone and the
>>> connection fittings arching over the top of the tail cone. this arch
>>> prevents water from accumulating in the fittings.
>>> -------- OSH '08 or Bust
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141648#141648
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Stall warning location |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Paul,
I wouldn't worry about it. The only reason that I know of for the stall warning
being in the left wing is because of left hand patterns when landing. I'm not
installing the Van's stall warning, I'm going with AOA.
John
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141694#141694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Static ports |
In a message dated 10/25/2007 9:52:30 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
Tim(at)MyRV10.com writes:
You need a heated pitot tube (FAR 23.1323d) and an alternate static
source (FAR 23.1325 (b)(3)) for IFR flight. Wonder how many
people building an IFR aircraft are taking this into consideration...
Tim,
Hard to break the face plate on the VSI as an alternate static air if you
have all glass!
Patrick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Marlow <sam(at)fr8dog.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Valve Problem |
I've discovered that when the fuel is off, the engine can be started
taxied and a runup completed, with the fuel selector in the off position.
Another nice surprise I discovered, is when the tanks are topped off,
fuel will transfer from one wing to the other, and pump precious fuel
overboard through the vent line, but only on the ground, I think, at
least so far. Has anyone else experienced this?
Thanks,
Sam Marlow
#40157
Van's standard kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Static ports |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
Safeair has a nice add on kit
Dan N289DT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Ackerman
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 10:08 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Static ports
Does anybody have a source for a valve that will open the static
system (1/4" Tygothane plastic tubing in our case) to cabin air?
normal position would be "closed" of course, so that the static
system is only open to the static ports. Alternate position would be
open to the cabin OR to both the cabin and the static ports.
I'd like to mount one on the far right side of the panel, but can't
seem to track down a suitable valve.
Any leads will be greatly appreciated.
John and Marlys Ackerman
40458 "finishing"
On Oct 25, 2007, at 4:05 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> One pair works fine. What you really want is ALTERNATE static in
> the cockpit, as a pilot-controllable item. Your friend is
> right about the tubing routing, however. An alternate static can
> be installed many ways, but it's just a way of opening the static
> line from inside the cockpit.
>
> Tim
>
>
> AirMike wrote:
>> I was told that I should put an extra set (making 4) static ports
>> with two dedicated to the TruTrak autopilot. My A&P friend told me to
>> rig each set with the ports on each side of the tail cone and the
>> connection fittings arching over the top of the tail cone. this arch
>> prevents water from accumulating in the fittings.
>> -------- OSH '08 or Bust
>> Read this topic online here:
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141648#141648
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | FPS Lessons Learnt |
Makes me glad it seemed cheesy so I went with the Aircraft Extras FPS. J
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 8:56 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FPS Lessons Learnt
He makes me glad I returned mine for credit.
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 6:21 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FPS Lessons Learnt
Ron, that does indeed help but would be even better if you would recommend
components that us Amateur Radio types should kludge together to make a sup
erior product. Would gladly send you money to offset the professional repo
rt.
John Cox
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 4:02 PM
Subject: RV10-List: FPS Lessons Learnt
G'day all,
Checked the wiring of the Flap Positioning System again last night. As a p
rofessional Electrical Engineer, I confirmed that there was no wiring issue
and was convinced the FPS controller was stuffed. So I removed it and dis
assembled it. Here is what I discovered:
1. the controller consists of 2 relays, 2 diodes and two fusible links
. Cost of the components is about $15. The $225 cost of the unit is extor
tionate.
2. One of the fusible links had opened.
3. A check of the switches on the switch bracket indicated that the re
tract switch was not properly engaged by the positioning rod (ie the switch
was not closed)
So, when the flaps were originally activated, extend worked fine. Because
the retract switch was not properly engaged (probably intermittent), the fl
aps would not retract. If the flaps will not retract using the FPS, the o
nly way to retract them is to apply reverse voltage directly to the flap mo
tor. But if the FPS is connected, this will send power the wrong way throu
gh the control box and cause one of the fusible links to open.
In summary, there was no initial problem with the controller. The problem
was misaligned switches on the switch bracket. Manually retracting the fla
ps while the FPS was connected cooked the controller and rendered retract p
ermanently u/s.
So here are the lessons:
1. The electronics in the FPS are trivial. If you have an FPS problem
it will be very unlikely to be a fault in the controller.
2. If the flaps fail to extend or retract, confirm that the microswitc
hes are being properly opened/closed by the positioning rod along its trave
l.
3. use a molex or equivalent connector at the flap motor/actuator conn
ector so that the flap can be extended/retracted manually with the controll
er installed (but disconnected).
I can't see any really compelling reaon for the fusible links, so replaced
them with #28 wire - be buggered if I was going to spend another US$225 on
a repalcement unit. Checked the switch alignment and bench tested out ok.
Will reinstall the electronics in a new case and remount in the tunnel to
morrow night.
Hope this helps for those yet to install.
Ron
-187 finishing (probably forever!!!)
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http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Static ports |
PLEASE CHECK OUT WWW.MILE-HIGH-AVIATION.COM FOR ALL YOUR PILOT AND AIRCRAFT
SUPPLY NEEDS. IF IT IS NOT LISTED I CAN ORDER IT.. NEW PRODUCTS LISTED EVERY
HOUR.
401-228-6677
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R.
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 11:03 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Static ports
Safeair has a nice add on kit
Dan N289DT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Ackerman
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 10:08 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Static ports
Does anybody have a source for a valve that will open the static
system (1/4" Tygothane plastic tubing in our case) to cabin air?
normal position would be "closed" of course, so that the static
system is only open to the static ports. Alternate position would be
open to the cabin OR to both the cabin and the static ports.
I'd like to mount one on the far right side of the panel, but can't
seem to track down a suitable valve.
Any leads will be greatly appreciated.
John and Marlys Ackerman
40458 "finishing"
On Oct 25, 2007, at 4:05 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> One pair works fine. What you really want is ALTERNATE static in
> the cockpit, as a pilot-controllable item. Your friend is
> right about the tubing routing, however. An alternate static can
> be installed many ways, but it's just a way of opening the static
> line from inside the cockpit.
>
> Tim
>
>
> AirMike wrote:
>> I was told that I should put an extra set (making 4) static ports
>> with two dedicated to the TruTrak autopilot. My A&P friend told me to
>> rig each set with the ports on each side of the tail cone and the
>> connection fittings arching over the top of the tail cone. this arch
>> prevents water from accumulating in the fittings.
>> -------- OSH '08 or Bust
>> Read this topic online here:
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141648#141648
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Valve Problem |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
If you have the fuel transfer between tanks then you have an issue with
your valve, the tanks are isolated from each other, even if you used the
standard Vans fuel valve it should not parallel the tanks and allow
cross transfer. Search the archives because there has been allot of
discussion about cross feeding the tanks for this very reason, if you
are on an angle/hill fuel will run over board through the low side tank.
I think there is a couple of builders out there that did cross feed
their tanks even though it is not recommended.
Dan
N289DT RV10E Flying
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Marlow
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 10:58 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Valve Problem
I've discovered that when the fuel is off, the engine can be started
taxied and a runup completed, with the fuel selector in the off
position.
Another nice surprise I discovered, is when the tanks are topped off,
fuel will transfer from one wing to the other, and pump precious fuel
overboard through the vent line, but only on the ground, I think, at
least so far. Has anyone else experienced this?
Thanks,
Sam Marlow
#40157
Van's standard kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Marlow <sam(at)fr8dog.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FPS Lessons Learnt |
You can't go wrong with the FPS from Aircraft Extras, service is good!
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
> Makes me glad it seemed cheesy so I went with the Aircraft Extras FPS. J
>
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *David McNeill
> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 23, 2007 8:56 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: FPS Lessons Learnt
>
>
>
> He makes me glad I returned mine for credit.
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *John W. Cox
> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 23, 2007 6:21 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: FPS Lessons Learnt
>
>
>
> Ron, that does indeed help but would be even better if you would
> recommend components that us Amateur Radio types should kludge
> together to make a superior product. Would gladly send you money to
> offset the professional report.
>
>
>
> John Cox
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *McGANN, Ron
> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 23, 2007 4:02 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: FPS Lessons Learnt
>
>
>
> G'day all,
>
> Checked the wiring of the Flap Positioning System again last night.
> As a professional Electrical Engineer, I confirmed that there was no
> wiring issue and was convinced the FPS controller was stuffed. So I
> removed it and disassembled it. Here is what I discovered:
>
> 1. the controller consists of 2 relays, 2 diodes and two fusible
> links. Cost of the components is about $15. The $225 cost of the
> unit is extortionate.
>
> 2. One of the fusible links had opened.
> 3. A check of the switches on the switch bracket indicated that
> the retract switch was not properly engaged by the positioning rod (ie
> the switch was not closed)
>
> So, when the flaps were originally activated, extend worked fine.
> Because the retract switch was not properly engaged (probably
> intermittent), the flaps would not retract. If the flaps will not
> retract using the FPS, the only way to retract them is to apply
> reverse voltage directly to the flap motor. But if the FPS is
> connected, this will send power the wrong way through the control box
> and cause one of the fusible links to open.
>
> In summary, there was no initial problem with the controller. The
> problem was misaligned switches on the switch bracket. Manually
> retracting the flaps while the FPS was connected cooked the controller
> and rendered retract permanently u/s.
>
> So here are the lessons:
>
> 1. The electronics in the FPS are trivial. If you have an FPS
> problem it will be very unlikely to be a fault in the controller.
>
> 2. If the flaps fail to extend or retract, confirm that the
> microswitches are being properly opened/closed by the positioning rod
> along its travel.
>
> 3. use a molex or equivalent connector at the flap motor/actuator
> connector so that the flap can be extended/retracted manually with the
> controller installed (but disconnected).
>
> I can't see any really compelling reaon for the fusible links, so
> replaced them with #28 wire - be buggered if I was going to spend
> another US$225 on a repalcement unit. Checked the switch alignment
> and bench tested out ok. Will reinstall the electronics in a new case
> and remount in the tunnel tomorrow night.
>
> Hope this helps for those yet to install.
>
> Ron
> -187 finishing (probably forever!!!)
>
> "Warning:
> The information contained in this email and any attached files is
> confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
> recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
> attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
> in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
> taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
> however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
> sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
> checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
> your computer."
>
> * *
> * *
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
> * *
> * *
> * *
> * *
> * *
> * *
> * *
> * *
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
> **
> **
> **
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
> **
> * *
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Valve Problem |
Which valve do you have....that doesn't sound right or good
at all...not even a little. With the Andair in place, mine
will die in short order once the valve is turned off, and
the wing tanks are always exactly where they were when the
last flight ended.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Sam Marlow wrote:
>
> I've discovered that when the fuel is off, the engine can be started
> taxied and a runup completed, with the fuel selector in the off position.
> Another nice surprise I discovered, is when the tanks are topped off,
> fuel will transfer from one wing to the other, and pump precious fuel
> overboard through the vent line, but only on the ground, I think, at
> least so far. Has anyone else experienced this?
> Thanks,
> Sam Marlow
> #40157
> Van's standard kit.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Static ports |
SafeAir has a solution that should work.
What's on my Cherokee is the same valve as the fuel drain.
>
> From: John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net>
> Date: 2007/10/25 Thu AM 09:07:59 EST
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Static ports
>
>
> Does anybody have a source for a valve that will open the static
> system (1/4" Tygothane plastic tubing in our case) to cabin air?
> normal position would be "closed" of course, so that the static
> system is only open to the static ports. Alternate position would be
> open to the cabin OR to both the cabin and the static ports.
> I'd like to mount one on the far right side of the panel, but can't
> seem to track down a suitable valve.
> Any leads will be greatly appreciated.
> John and Marlys Ackerman
> 40458 "finishing"
>
>
> On Oct 25, 2007, at 4:05 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> >
> > One pair works fine. What you really want is ALTERNATE static in
> > the cockpit, as a pilot-controllable item. Your friend is
> > right about the tubing routing, however. An alternate static can
> > be installed many ways, but it's just a way of opening the static
> > line from inside the cockpit.
> >
> > Tim
> >
> >
> > AirMike wrote:
> >> I was told that I should put an extra set (making 4) static ports
> >> with two dedicated to the TruTrak autopilot. My A&P friend told me to
> >> rig each set with the ports on each side of the tail cone and the
> >> connection fittings arching over the top of the tail cone. this arch
> >> prevents water from accumulating in the fittings.
> >> -------- OSH '08 or Bust
> >> Read this topic online here:
> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141648#141648
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Static ports |
John, Safeair sells an alternate static port. It's a pretty simple
system. Just a plug that fits into a quick connect fitting also
available from MSC supply.
http://www.safeair1.com/index.htm
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
John Ackerman wrote:
>
> Does anybody have a source for a valve that will open the static
> system (1/4" Tygothane plastic tubing in our case) to cabin air?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Valve Problem |
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
Are we talking about a high wing Cessna or an RV-10? With the standard fuel plumbing
there should be no transfer of fuel from one tank to the other. Also, consider
the length of tubing from the fuel selector to the engine; this should
allow only a few seconds of fuel for the engine to run.
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
-------- Original Message --------
> X-Rcpt-To:
>
>
> I've discovered that when the fuel is off, the engine can be started
> taxied and a runup completed, with the fuel selector in the off position.
> Another nice surprise I discovered, is when the tanks are topped off,
> fuel will transfer from one wing to the other, and pump precious fuel
> overboard through the vent line, but only on the ground, I think, at
> least so far. Has anyone else experienced this?
> Thanks,
> Sam Marlow
> #40157
> Van's standard kit.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Marlow <sam(at)fr8dog.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Valve Problem |
I have the Van's standard valve, V407P-4.....
The aircraft is grounded untill I get this sorted out. I have talked to
Gus at Van's, and he said this is the first he's heard of a problem with
the valve. But that's what I here every time I contact them about any
problem!
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Which valve do you have....that doesn't sound right or good
> at all...not even a little. With the Andair in place, mine
> will die in short order once the valve is turned off, and
> the wing tanks are always exactly where they were when the
> last flight ended.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
> Sam Marlow wrote:
>>
>> I've discovered that when the fuel is off, the engine can be started
>> taxied and a runup completed, with the fuel selector in the off
>> position.
>> Another nice surprise I discovered, is when the tanks are topped off,
>> fuel will transfer from one wing to the other, and pump precious fuel
>> overboard through the vent line, but only on the ground, I think, at
>> least so far. Has anyone else experienced this?
>> Thanks,
>> Sam Marlow
>> #40157
>> Van's standard kit.
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Ritter <mritter509(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Exhaust Extensions |
Tim,
Do you still have the 6" exhaust extensions on your plane? Any update on b
enefits, if any?
Thanks,
Mark
RV-10/N410MR
Kit #40043
_________________________________________________________________
!
ilnews
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Marlow <sam(at)fr8dog.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Static ports |
I have the Cleveland static ports, they have a 6 to 8 kt error, directly
compared to others while formation flying.
Sam
rv(at)thelefflers.com wrote:
>
> SafeAir has a solution that should work.
>
> What's on my Cherokee is the same valve as the fuel drain.
>
>
>> From: John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net>
>> Date: 2007/10/25 Thu AM 09:07:59 EST
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Static ports
>>
>>
>> Does anybody have a source for a valve that will open the static
>> system (1/4" Tygothane plastic tubing in our case) to cabin air?
>> normal position would be "closed" of course, so that the static
>> system is only open to the static ports. Alternate position would be
>> open to the cabin OR to both the cabin and the static ports.
>> I'd like to mount one on the far right side of the panel, but can't
>> seem to track down a suitable valve.
>> Any leads will be greatly appreciated.
>> John and Marlys Ackerman
>> 40458 "finishing"
>>
>>
>> On Oct 25, 2007, at 4:05 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>>
>>>
>>> One pair works fine. What you really want is ALTERNATE static in
>>> the cockpit, as a pilot-controllable item. Your friend is
>>> right about the tubing routing, however. An alternate static can
>>> be installed many ways, but it's just a way of opening the static
>>> line from inside the cockpit.
>>>
>>> Tim
>>>
>>>
>>> AirMike wrote:
>>>
>>>> I was told that I should put an extra set (making 4) static ports
>>>> with two dedicated to the TruTrak autopilot. My A&P friend told me to
>>>> rig each set with the ports on each side of the tail cone and the
>>>> connection fittings arching over the top of the tail cone. this arch
>>>> prevents water from accumulating in the fittings.
>>>> -------- OSH '08 or Bust
>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141648#141648
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Static ports |
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
While this is an excellent idea and I try to model as much as I can on Type Certificated
aircraft which fall under FAR Part 23, our experimental RVs fall under
FAR Part 21. Now if this was mentioned under Part 91 (operations) that would
be another story. Experimental OBAM are bound by FAR Parts 21 and 91. So
while I'm sure we would also adhere to part 43 in maintenance of our OBAM, while
43.1 specifically excludes OBAM, it is probably still a good ides to follow
the guidelines in 43.1.
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
-------- Original Message --------
>
> You need a heated pitot tube (FAR 23.1323d) and an alternate static
> source (FAR 23.1325 (b)(3)) for IFR flight. Wonder how many
> people building an IFR aircraft are taking this into consideration...
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Marlow <sam(at)fr8dog.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Valve Problem |
RV-10, of course. I'm well aware of the way the system works, I built
it, but I'm trying to get the word out, there's a fuel transfer problem
that's going to get someone hurt if it's not fixed. I've ordered a new
valve from the factory, not Van's, but until it's installed, MY RV10 IS
GROUNDED! There's no way enough fuel can be in the lines, on a stock
built RV10 airframe to run the engine for 10 minuets.
I contacted the factory, talked to Guss, but he just insults me with
redundant silly questions. I'm just the stupid pilot, builder, what do I
know about airplanes.
Sorry to dump on you William, I'm just frustrated with support from
Van's. I feel it's my responsibly to alert the RV10 builders of this
potential lethal problem, even if Van's won't!
Sam
William Curtis wrote:
>
> Are we talking about a high wing Cessna or an RV-10? With the standard fuel
plumbing there should be no transfer of fuel from one tank to the other. Also,
consider the length of tubing from the fuel selector to the engine; this should
allow only a few seconds of fuel for the engine to run.
>
> William
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
>
> -------- Original Message --------
>
>> X-Rcpt-To:
>>
>>
>> I've discovered that when the fuel is off, the engine can be started
>> taxied and a runup completed, with the fuel selector in the off position.
>> Another nice surprise I discovered, is when the tanks are topped off,
>> fuel will transfer from one wing to the other, and pump precious fuel
>> overboard through the vent line, but only on the ground, I think, at
>> least so far. Has anyone else experienced this?
>> Thanks,
>> Sam Marlow
>> #40157
>> Van's standard kit.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Best Prices Offered Anywhere |
Mile High Aviation
We Will Not Be Undersold!
ASA Pathfinder CX-2 Electronic Flight Computer
CX-2 Flight Computer
Price $61.95
Retail Price $80.00
To Order Call: 401-228-6677
Http://WWW.MILE-HIGH-AVIATION.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Static ports |
Joe,
I think your CAPS LOCK is stuck on. Perhaps you might want to list a
new keyboard?
Humor intended. :)
Mile High Aviation wrote:
>
> PLEASE CHECK OUT WWW.MILE-HIGH-AVIATION.COM FOR ALL YOUR PILOT AND AIRCRAFT
> SUPPLY NEEDS. IF IT IS NOT LISTED I CAN ORDER IT.. NEW PRODUCTS LISTED EVERY
> HOUR.
>
> 401-228-6677
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R.
> Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 11:03 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Static ports
>
>
> Safeair has a nice add on kit
> Dan N289DT
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Ackerman
> Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 10:08 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Static ports
>
>
> Does anybody have a source for a valve that will open the static
> system (1/4" Tygothane plastic tubing in our case) to cabin air?
> normal position would be "closed" of course, so that the static
> system is only open to the static ports. Alternate position would be
> open to the cabin OR to both the cabin and the static ports.
> I'd like to mount one on the far right side of the panel, but can't
> seem to track down a suitable valve.
> Any leads will be greatly appreciated.
> John and Marlys Ackerman
> 40458 "finishing"
>
>
> On Oct 25, 2007, at 4:05 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
>>
>> One pair works fine. What you really want is ALTERNATE static in
>> the cockpit, as a pilot-controllable item. Your friend is
>> right about the tubing routing, however. An alternate static can
>> be installed many ways, but it's just a way of opening the static
>> line from inside the cockpit.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>
>> AirMike wrote:
>>
>>> I was told that I should put an extra set (making 4) static ports
>>> with two dedicated to the TruTrak autopilot. My A&P friend told me to
>>> rig each set with the ports on each side of the tail cone and the
>>> connection fittings arching over the top of the tail cone. this arch
>>> prevents water from accumulating in the fittings.
>>> -------- OSH '08 or Bust
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141648#141648
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Static ports |
LMAO.. Thanks for the information.. I will list one today. :) If any of you
need ANY product please give me an email or call I will gladly help.. and my
prices are not to be beaten.
Joe AT mile-high-aviation.com 401-228-6677
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 1:47 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Static ports
Joe,
I think your CAPS LOCK is stuck on. Perhaps you might want to list a
new keyboard?
Humor intended. :)
Mile High Aviation wrote:
<joe@mile-high-aviation.com>
>
> PLEASE CHECK OUT WWW.MILE-HIGH-AVIATION.COM FOR ALL YOUR PILOT AND
AIRCRAFT
> SUPPLY NEEDS. IF IT IS NOT LISTED I CAN ORDER IT.. NEW PRODUCTS LISTED
EVERY
> HOUR.
>
> 401-228-6677
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel
R.
> Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 11:03 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Static ports
>
>
> Safeair has a nice add on kit
> Dan N289DT
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Ackerman
> Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 10:08 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Static ports
>
>
> Does anybody have a source for a valve that will open the static
> system (1/4" Tygothane plastic tubing in our case) to cabin air?
> normal position would be "closed" of course, so that the static
> system is only open to the static ports. Alternate position would be
> open to the cabin OR to both the cabin and the static ports.
> I'd like to mount one on the far right side of the panel, but can't
> seem to track down a suitable valve.
> Any leads will be greatly appreciated.
> John and Marlys Ackerman
> 40458 "finishing"
>
>
> On Oct 25, 2007, at 4:05 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
>>
>> One pair works fine. What you really want is ALTERNATE static in
>> the cockpit, as a pilot-controllable item. Your friend is
>> right about the tubing routing, however. An alternate static can
>> be installed many ways, but it's just a way of opening the static
>> line from inside the cockpit.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>
>> AirMike wrote:
>>
>>> I was told that I should put an extra set (making 4) static ports
>>> with two dedicated to the TruTrak autopilot. My A&P friend told me to
>>> rig each set with the ports on each side of the tail cone and the
>>> connection fittings arching over the top of the tail cone. this arch
>>> prevents water from accumulating in the fittings.
>>> -------- OSH '08 or Bust
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141648#141648
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Static ports |
Try a curtiss valve.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Ackerman
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 7:08 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Static ports
Does anybody have a source for a valve that will open the static system
(1/4" Tygothane plastic tubing in our case) to cabin air?
normal position would be "closed" of course, so that the static system is
only open to the static ports. Alternate position would be open to the cabin
OR to both the cabin and the static ports.
I'd like to mount one on the far right side of the panel, but can't seem to
track down a suitable valve.
Any leads will be greatly appreciated.
John and Marlys Ackerman
40458 "finishing"
On Oct 25, 2007, at 4:05 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> One pair works fine. What you really want is ALTERNATE static in the
> cockpit, as a pilot-controllable item. Your friend is right about the
> tubing routing, however. An alternate static can be installed many
> ways, but it's just a way of opening the static line from inside the
> cockpit.
>
> Tim
>
>
> AirMike wrote:
>> I was told that I should put an extra set (making 4) static ports
>> with two dedicated to the TruTrak autopilot. My A&P friend told me to
>> rig each set with the ports on each side of the tail cone and the
>> connection fittings arching over the top of the tail cone. this arch
>> prevents water from accumulating in the fittings.
>> -------- OSH '08 or Bust
>> Read this topic online here:
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141648#141648
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neal George" <n8zg(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Valve Problem |
Sam -
Yank that valve and throw it under your bench.
It will make a very nice spider habitat.
Get yourself an Andair FS20X7-T.
Neal
=================
I have the Van's standard valve, V407P-4.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Dunne" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Static ports |
In Australia, Tc'd or otherwise a set of balanced static ports satisfies the
requirement for alternate air ( IFR). It would surprise me if we didn't copy
that info from the FAR's somewhere.
John 40315
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2007 2:39 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Static ports
>
> While this is an excellent idea and I try to model as much as I can on
> Type Certificated aircraft which fall under FAR Part 23, our experimental
> RVs fall under FAR Part 21. Now if this was mentioned under Part 91
> (operations) that would be another story. Experimental OBAM are bound by
> FAR Parts 21 and 91. So while I'm sure we would also adhere to part 43 in
> maintenance of our OBAM, while 43.1 specifically excludes OBAM, it is
> probably still a good ides to follow the guidelines in 43.1.
>
> William
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
>
> -------- Original Message --------
>>
>> You need a heated pitot tube (FAR 23.1323d) and an alternate static
>> source (FAR 23.1325 (b)(3)) for IFR flight. Wonder how many
>> people building an IFR aircraft are taking this into consideration...
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Door pins installation pictures needed |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Hello,
since I didn't give up on the Rivethead door-pin set I want to proceed with my
door installation. could some one post pictures of the installed door pins and
what changes are required to the original setup.
I am currently installing Steve DiNieris door handles and want to make sure that
I don't do something irreversible for the Rivethead door-pin set up.
Best Regards
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (fuselage)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141801#141801
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Valve Problem |
For reference, minutes ago, I placed an order for an Andair EFS20B7-T.
It has the 2 90deg elbows oriented downwards so the valve fits within
the width of the tunnel and an extension so the SCAT can go over the
valve.
Thanks to all for the help.
Neal George wrote:
>
> Sam -
>
> Yank that valve and throw it under your bench.
> It will make a very nice spider habitat.
>
> Get yourself an Andair FS20X7-T.
>
> Neal
>
> =================
>
> I have the Van's standard valve, V407P-4.....
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Valve Problem |
That brings up a good question. Has anyone done the standard to Andair fuel
valve conversion with a finished airplane? I've thought about doing it but
wonder what might be involved in changing the plumbing around.
Different note for Sam, I found if my machine is topped off I'll vent some
fuel so I always stop about 1" from a full top-off. Fuel transferring from
one side to another is the sign of a big problem in my opinion.
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Neal George
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 3:33 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Valve Problem
Sam -
Yank that valve and throw it under your bench.
It will make a very nice spider habitat.
Get yourself an Andair FS20X7-T.
Neal
=================
I have the Van's standard valve, V407P-4.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Ritter <mritter509(at)msn.com> |
After 150 hours the finger strainer in the right tank sprung a leak. Remov
ed the fitting, cleaned the threads, applied fuelube and reinstalled. Stil
l leaked. Put in new fitting and the leaked stopped. Go figure.
I was getting a faint wiff of avgas in the cabin that caused me to investig
ate. Found fuel stains on the bottom right wing fairing. After draining t
he right tank we place a balloon on the fuel vent line and put air in the t
ank via the fuel drain fitting. We then put liquid soap where we believed
the leak was and found bubbles around the finger strainer.
Mark
RV-10/N410MR
_________________________________________________________________
!
ilnews
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Valve Problem |
Sam just wondering did all the basic tests , did you test your fuel selecter
for correct fuel flows etc. I mean fill one tank then time the fuel flow
switch to the other nothing shoud come out? Off position , nothing comes
out.Empty the tank repeat other side?
Time the fuel flows. Just wondering if its just your valve only. I didnt
want to go a spend more money if not needed. I am not at the point were I
can test the valve.
I am probably missing something as usual so feel free to point me in the
right direction
regards Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Marlow" <sam(at)fr8dog.net>
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2007 2:04 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Valve Problem
>
> I have the Van's standard valve, V407P-4.....
> The aircraft is grounded untill I get this sorted out. I have talked to
> Gus at Van's, and he said this is the first he's heard of a problem with
> the valve. But that's what I here every time I contact them about any
> problem!
> Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>> Which valve do you have....that doesn't sound right or good
>> at all...not even a little. With the Andair in place, mine
>> will die in short order once the valve is turned off, and
>> the wing tanks are always exactly where they were when the
>> last flight ended.
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>>
>>
>>
>> Sam Marlow wrote:
>>>
>>> I've discovered that when the fuel is off, the engine can be started
>>> taxied and a runup completed, with the fuel selector in the off
>>> position.
>>> Another nice surprise I discovered, is when the tanks are topped off,
>>> fuel will transfer from one wing to the other, and pump precious fuel
>>> overboard through the vent line, but only on the ground, I think, at
>>> least so far. Has anyone else experienced this?
>>> Thanks,
>>> Sam Marlow
>>> #40157
>>> Van's standard kit.
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Valve Problem |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Sam, you are the kind of pilot we should all strive to emulate. Fuel
Shutoff is exactly that. Good luck returning safely to the air soon.
John Cox
#40600
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Marlow
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 9:35 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Valve Problem
RV-10, of course. I'm well aware of the way the system works, I built
it, but I'm trying to get the word out, there's a fuel transfer problem
that's going to get someone hurt if it's not fixed. I've ordered a new
valve from the factory, not Van's, but until it's installed, MY RV10 IS
GROUNDED! There's no way enough fuel can be in the lines, on a stock
built RV10 airframe to run the engine for 10 minuets.
I contacted the factory, talked to Guss, but he just insults me with
redundant silly questions. I'm just the stupid pilot, builder, what do I
know about airplanes.
Sorry to dump on you William, I'm just frustrated with support from
Van's. I feel it's my responsibly to alert the RV10 builders of this
potential lethal problem, even if Van's won't!
Sam
William Curtis wrote:
Are we talking about a high wing Cessna or an RV-10? With the standard
fuel plumbing there should be no transfer of fuel from one tank to the
other. Also, consider the length of tubing from the fuel selector to the
engine; this should allow only a few seconds of fuel for the engine to
run.
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
-------- Original Message --------
X-Rcpt-To:
I've discovered that when the fuel is off, the engine can be
started
taxied and a runup completed, with the fuel selector in the off
position.
Another nice surprise I discovered, is when the tanks are topped
off,
fuel will transfer from one wing to the other, and pump precious
fuel
overboard through the vent line, but only on the ground, I
think, at
least so far. Has anyone else experienced this?
Thanks,
Sam Marlow
#40157
Van's standard kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Marlow <sam(at)fr8dog.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Valve Problem |
I may end up doing just that, but in all fairness, I have to give Van's
a chance to make it right.
Neal George wrote:
>
> Sam -
>
> Yank that valve and throw it under your bench.
> It will make a very nice spider habitat.
>
> Get yourself an Andair FS20X7-T.
>
> Neal
>
> =================
>
> I have the Van's standard valve, V407P-4.....
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Marlow <sam(at)fr8dog.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Valve Problem |
Not exactly to that extent, but I did use compressed air to verify
integrity of the valve.
Chris and Susie McGough wrote:
>
>
> Sam just wondering did all the basic tests , did you test your fuel
> selecter for correct fuel flows etc. I mean fill one tank then time
> the fuel flow switch to the other nothing shoud come out? Off
> position , nothing comes out.Empty the tank repeat other side?
> Time the fuel flows. Just wondering if its just your valve only. I
> didnt want to go a spend more money if not needed. I am not at the
> point were I can test the valve.
> I am probably missing something as usual so feel free to point me in
> the right direction
>
> regards Chris
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sam Marlow" <sam(at)fr8dog.net>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, October 26, 2007 2:04 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Valve Problem
>
>
>>
>> I have the Van's standard valve, V407P-4.....
>> The aircraft is grounded untill I get this sorted out. I have talked
>> to Gus at Van's, and he said this is the first he's heard of a
>> problem with the valve. But that's what I here every time I contact
>> them about any problem!
>> Tim Olson wrote:
>>>
>>> Which valve do you have....that doesn't sound right or good
>>> at all...not even a little. With the Andair in place, mine
>>> will die in short order once the valve is turned off, and
>>> the wing tanks are always exactly where they were when the
>>> last flight ended.
>>>
>>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Sam Marlow wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I've discovered that when the fuel is off, the engine can be
>>>> started taxied and a runup completed, with the fuel selector in the
>>>> off position.
>>>> Another nice surprise I discovered, is when the tanks are topped
>>>> off, fuel will transfer from one wing to the other, and pump
>>>> precious fuel overboard through the vent line, but only on the
>>>> ground, I think, at least so far. Has anyone else experienced this?
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> Sam Marlow
>>>> #40157
>>>> Van's standard kit.
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Marlow <sam(at)fr8dog.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Valve Problem |
Thank's John, I'll get to the bottom of of it yet.
You guy's are great, that's the reason I'm on this fourm, so we all can
learn and stay safe!
John W. Cox wrote:
>
> Sam, you are the kind of pilot we should all strive to emulate. Fuel
> Shutoff is exactly that. Good luck returning safely to the air soon.
>
>
>
> John Cox
>
> #40600
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Sam Marlow
> *Sent:* Thursday, October 25, 2007 9:35 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Fuel Valve Problem
>
>
>
> RV-10, of course. I'm well aware of the way the system works, I built
> it, but I'm trying to get the word out, there's a fuel transfer
> problem that's going to get someone hurt if it's not fixed. I've
> ordered a new valve from the factory, not Van's, but until it's
> installed, MY RV10 IS GROUNDED! There's no way enough fuel can be in
> the lines, on a stock built RV10 airframe to run the engine for 10
> minuets.
> I contacted the factory, talked to Guss, but he just insults me with
> redundant silly questions. I'm just the stupid pilot, builder, what do
> I know about airplanes.
> Sorry to dump on you William, I'm just frustrated with support from
> Van's. I feel it's my responsibly to alert the RV10 builders of this
> potential lethal problem, even if Van's won't!
> Sam
>
> William Curtis wrote:
>
>
> Are we talking about a high wing Cessna or an RV-10? With the standard fuel
plumbing there should be no transfer of fuel from one tank to the other. Also,
consider the length of tubing from the fuel selector to the engine; this should
allow only a few seconds of fuel for the engine to run.
>
> William
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
>
> -------- Original Message --------
>
>> X-Rcpt-To:
>>
>>
>> I've discovered that when the fuel is off, the engine can be started
>> taxied and a runup completed, with the fuel selector in the off position.
>> Another nice surprise I discovered, is when the tanks are topped off,
>> fuel will transfer from one wing to the other, and pump precious fuel
>> overboard through the vent line, but only on the ground, I think, at
>> least so far. Has anyone else experienced this?
>> Thanks,
>> Sam Marlow
>> #40157
>> Van's standard kit.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> * *
> * *
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
> **
> **
> **
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
> **
> * *
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Valve Problem |
Sam would you think this might help to verify the source of the problem if
you did it.
regards Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Marlow" <sam(at)fr8dog.net>
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2007 11:16 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Valve Problem
>
> Not exactly to that extent, but I did use compressed air to verify
> integrity of the valve.
>
> Chris and Susie McGough wrote:
>>
>>
>> Sam just wondering did all the basic tests , did you test your fuel
>> selecter for correct fuel flows etc. I mean fill one tank then time the
>> fuel flow switch to the other nothing shoud come out? Off position ,
>> nothing comes out.Empty the tank repeat other side?
>> Time the fuel flows. Just wondering if its just your valve only. I didnt
>> want to go a spend more money if not needed. I am not at the point were I
>> can test the valve.
>> I am probably missing something as usual so feel free to point me in the
>> right direction
>>
>> regards Chris
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sam Marlow" <sam(at)fr8dog.net>
>> To:
>> Sent: Friday, October 26, 2007 2:04 AM
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Valve Problem
>>
>>
>>>
>>> I have the Van's standard valve, V407P-4.....
>>> The aircraft is grounded untill I get this sorted out. I have talked to
>>> Gus at Van's, and he said this is the first he's heard of a problem with
>>> the valve. But that's what I here every time I contact them about any
>>> problem!
>>> Tim Olson wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Which valve do you have....that doesn't sound right or good
>>>> at all...not even a little. With the Andair in place, mine
>>>> will die in short order once the valve is turned off, and
>>>> the wing tanks are always exactly where they were when the
>>>> last flight ended.
>>>>
>>>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Sam Marlow wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> I've discovered that when the fuel is off, the engine can be started
>>>>> taxied and a runup completed, with the fuel selector in the off
>>>>> position.
>>>>> Another nice surprise I discovered, is when the tanks are topped off,
>>>>> fuel will transfer from one wing to the other, and pump precious fuel
>>>>> overboard through the vent line, but only on the ground, I think, at
>>>>> least so far. Has anyone else experienced this?
>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>> Sam Marlow
>>>>> #40157
>>>>> Van's standard kit.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Postings To Matronics Lists |
Dear Joe of Mile High Aviation (joe@mile-high-aviation.com),
While I do permit occasional commercial posts to the Matronics Email Lists, I ask that these posts not be of a "spam" nature. The following is from the Matronics List Usage Guidelines found here: http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV10-List.htm
"Occasional posts by vendors or individuals who are
regularly subscribed to a given List are considered
acceptable. Posts by List members promoting their
respective products or items for sale should be of
a friendly, informal nature, and should not resemble
a typical SPAM message. The List isn't about
commercialism, but is about sharing information and
knowledge. This applies to everyone, including those
who provide products to the entire community.
Informal presentation and moderation should be the
operatives with respect to advertising on the Lists."
Your post to the List today was considered by many Listers to cross the line into
spam even though it was aviation related and I agree. Please refrain from
this type of posting in the future or I will need to block your email address
from further postings to the Matronics Lists.
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Postings To Matronics Lists |
RV-10 Listers,
Looks like I cut this guy too much slack. I just noticed that he actually only
subscribed to the Lists long enough to post his spam messages then unsubscribed.
I have just blocked his domain from posting to Matronics.
Sorry for the hassle.
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
At 06:50 PM 10/25/2007 Thursday, you wrote:
>
>
>Dear Joe of Mile High Aviation (joe@mile-high-aviation.com),
>
>While I do permit occasional commercial posts to the Matronics Email Lists, I ask that these posts not be of a "spam" nature. The following is from the Matronics List Usage Guidelines found here: http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV10-List.htm
>
> "Occasional posts by vendors or individuals who are
> regularly subscribed to a given List are considered
> acceptable. Posts by List members promoting their
> respective products or items for sale should be of
> a friendly, informal nature, and should not resemble
> a typical SPAM message. The List isn't about
> commercialism, but is about sharing information and
> knowledge. This applies to everyone, including those
> who provide products to the entire community.
> Informal presentation and moderation should be the
> operatives with respect to advertising on the Lists."
>
>Your post to the List today was considered by many Listers to cross the line into
spam even though it was aviation related and I agree. Please refrain from
this type of posting in the future or I will need to block your email address
from further postings to the Matronics Lists.
>
>Thank you,
>
>Matt Dralle
>Matronics Email List Administrator
>
>
>Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
>925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
>http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Static ports |
Who says you have to build to part 23 requirements? CAR3 didn't require
either one, and neither does Part 91. From what I see, as long as you
meet Part 91 requirements you are good to go. I flew a CAR3 plane IFR
for years without alt static and with plain old copper tube pitot . My
Mooney has heated pitot, but no alternate static, and is IFR certified.
As long as the static source is as called for on the RV-10 with a port
on each side and connecting tube arching up to top of fuselage, it will
take an awful lot to block both ports.
GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 10/25/2007 9:52:30 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
> Tim(at)MyRV10.com writes:
>
> You need a heated pitot tube (FAR 23.1323d) and an alternate static
> source (FAR 23.1325 (b)(3)) for IFR flight. Wonder how many
> people building an IFR aircraft are taking this into consideration...
>
> Tim,
>
> Hard to break the face plate on the VSI as an alternate static air if
> you have all glass!
>
> Patrick
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> See what's ne
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Static ports |
If you want alternate static air and have an EFIS, use a curtiss valve on
the panel into an AN female pipe thread T fitting. This will allow nylon
pipe thread to standard nylon lines into the static system. See attached
picture. See the valve to the left of the Chelton PFD.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 8:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Static ports
Who says you have to build to part 23 requirements? CAR3 didn't require
either one, and neither does Part 91. From what I see, as long as you meet
Part 91 requirements you are good to go. I flew a CAR3 plane IFR for years
without alt static and with plain old copper tube pitot . My Mooney has
heated pitot, but no alternate static, and is IFR certified.
As long as the static source is as called for on the RV-10 with a port on
each side and connecting tube arching up to top of fuselage, it will take an
awful lot to block both ports.
GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 10/25/2007 9:52:30 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
> Tim(at)MyRV10.com writes:
>
> You need a heated pitot tube (FAR 23.1323d) and an alternate static
> source (FAR 23.1325 (b)(3)) for IFR flight. Wonder how many
> people building an IFR aircraft are taking this into consideration...
>
> Tim,
>
> Hard to break the face plate on the VSI as an alternate static air if
> you have all glass!
>
> Patrick
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
> See what's ne
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | plexiglass bond to fiberglass |
| From: | "eagerlee" <eagerlee(at)comcast.net> |
I got some Weld On - 10 and replicated my previous experiment with structural epoxy
as a bonding agent for the RV-10 windows. Again i scuffed a test block of
plexi and fiberglass, wiped clean with alcohol, glued and clamped the pieces,
let the glue cure for 24 hours. The difference was day and night. When I hit
the epoxy test piece with a ball peen hammer to provide a sheer force, the bond
between the Plexiglas and epoxy failed by a clean separation with a moderate
blow of the hammer. I could not get the bond between the plexiglas and the
Weld On to fail using severe blows from the same hammer: the plexiglas itself
failed first. I'm going to use the weld on to fasten my windows and then fill
the edge gaps with a structural epoxy and do an overlay of glass fiber mat to
prevent the paint from cracking. One last comment: the Weld On was mixed by
an eyeball estimate of 13 to 1 ratio and had a date stamped on the carton Jul
'06. I assume that precision ratio and current material would yield a stronger
bond.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141889#141889
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Alternate static valve - Thanks, folks! |
Thanks to all who replied with excellent suggestions for an
alternate static panel mount valve.
Several suggestions looked good to me.
However, I've been looking for one that will toggle between normal
and alternate, and my panel is made to accommodate that. I'll look
first at the Clippard MTV-3P as suggested by Chris Johnson.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Dunne" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au> |
Just a point for those considering Andair valves. Make sure you get the
right version and best orientation.
I've seen plenty of discussion about the extension handle creating room for
the scat hose, but an even better reason for lowering the assembly has a lot
to do with some of the initial problems with the early edition valves,
location and the orientation.
In the photo attached, when the valve is centrally located, it has the
potential for the rudder cable to saw through the fuel line.
John 40315
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: plexiglass bond to fiberglass |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Thanks, that clarifies my initial question now all I'll need is to get some Weld-On
10 to Europe somehow.
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (fuselage)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141905#141905
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Marlow <sam(at)fr8dog.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Valve Problem |
Well, yes, anything to verify where the fuel is coming from, but I
already know the fuel valve is bypassing internally. That's the only
place fuel can travel from one side to the other. The question is why.
Chris and Susie McGough wrote:
>
>
> Sam would you think this might help to verify the source of the
> problem if you did it.
>
> regards Chris
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sam Marlow" <sam(at)fr8dog.net>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, October 26, 2007 11:16 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Valve Problem
>
>
>>
>> Not exactly to that extent, but I did use compressed air to verify
>> integrity of the valve.
>>
>> Chris and Susie McGough wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Sam just wondering did all the basic tests , did you test your fuel
>>> selecter for correct fuel flows etc. I mean fill one tank then time
>>> the fuel flow switch to the other nothing shoud come out? Off
>>> position , nothing comes out.Empty the tank repeat other side?
>>> Time the fuel flows. Just wondering if its just your valve only. I
>>> didnt want to go a spend more money if not needed. I am not at the
>>> point were I can test the valve.
>>> I am probably missing something as usual so feel free to point me in
>>> the right direction
>>>
>>> regards Chris
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sam Marlow" <sam(at)fr8dog.net>
>>> To:
>>> Sent: Friday, October 26, 2007 2:04 AM
>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Valve Problem
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>> I have the Van's standard valve, V407P-4.....
>>>> The aircraft is grounded untill I get this sorted out. I have
>>>> talked to Gus at Van's, and he said this is the first he's heard of
>>>> a problem with the valve. But that's what I here every time I
>>>> contact them about any problem!
>>>> Tim Olson wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Which valve do you have....that doesn't sound right or good
>>>>> at all...not even a little. With the Andair in place, mine
>>>>> will die in short order once the valve is turned off, and
>>>>> the wing tanks are always exactly where they were when the
>>>>> last flight ended.
>>>>>
>>>>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Sam Marlow wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I've discovered that when the fuel is off, the engine can be
>>>>>> started taxied and a runup completed, with the fuel selector in
>>>>>> the off position.
>>>>>> Another nice surprise I discovered, is when the tanks are topped
>>>>>> off, fuel will transfer from one wing to the other, and pump
>>>>>> precious fuel overboard through the vent line, but only on the
>>>>>> ground, I think, at least so far. Has anyone else experienced this?
>>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>>> Sam Marlow
>>>>>> #40157
>>>>>> Van's standard kit.
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Static ports |
| From: | darnpilot(at)aol.com |
Very nice panel.? One question: your switches and cb's seem kind of random...how
did you determine what you wanted where?? I would have thought the switches
would be grouped together and the cb's all together too?
That said, I really like it.? Thanks for the photo.
Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: David McNeill <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Sent: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 11:42 pm
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Static ports
If you want alternate static air and have an EFIS, use a curtiss valve on
the panel into an AN female pipe thread T fitting. This will allow nylon
pipe thread to standard nylon lines into the static system. See attached
picture. See the valve to the left of the Chelton PFD.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 8:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Static ports
Who says you have to build to part 23 requirements? CAR3 didn't require
either one, and neither does Part 91. From what I see, as long as you meet
Part 91 requirements you are good to go. I flew a CAR3 plane IFR for years
without alt static and with plain old copper tube pitot . My Mooney has
heated pitot, but no alternate static, and is IFR certified.
As long as the static source is as called for on the RV-10 with a port on
each side and connecting tube arching up to top of fuselage, it will take an
awful lot to block both ports.
GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 10/25/2007 9:52:30 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
> Tim(at)MyRV10.com writes:
>
> You need a heated pitot tube (FAR 23.1323d) and an alternate static
> source (FAR 23.1325 (b)(3)) for IFR flight. Wonder how many
> people building an IFR aircraft are taking this into consideration...
>
> Tim,
>
> Hard to break the face plate on the VSI as an alternate static air if
> you have all glass!
>
> Patrick
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
> See what's ne
> *
>
>
> *
[Image Removed]
________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Door pins installation pictures needed |
Hi Michael,
I don't have any pictures of the door pin set but I have them installed.
I had already installed the Van's supplied hardware and was using them
until I received Riverhead's. The conversion was fairly easy. On the
door jam guides I had to obviously remove the plastic ones and the
elongate the holes I had made for the bolts so I could move the guides
up and down for proper alignment. They were a little to thick for my set
up so I had to take a little off of the back to get then to fit
properly. Someone had said to mill it off but since I don't have that
equipment I used the sander, which worked fine, but a little hot on the
fingers :>}
On the door pins that go onto the tips of the door latch rods I had two
problems. First I cut of the V shaped end of the tip of the rods. Then I
ran into a little problem. When I had installed the Van's supplied
guides I epoxied into the door rod the magnets used to determine if the
door is closed. One, there was epoxy in the thread so I couldn't screw
in the bullet type tip guides because of the epoxy. That's not a big
problem that a tap couldn't solve but the actual magnets was a little
problem. They weren't in deep enough so I couldn't screw the new tip in
because they would bottom out on the magnet.
I had to remove the rods from the doors, which wasn't as bad as I
thought it was going to be at first, and got a long narrow steel rod and
knocked out the old magnet and then tapped out the hole. After that it
went together easily.
It was a little work but not to terribly bad. I really like this new
setup. One it looks a lot more finished, at least for me, and two the
door seems to latch much easier after I adjusted the openings. Before I
had to kind of force the door shut, probably poor alignment by me
initially, but now they close very smoothly, IMHO.
Hope this helps. If you want an actual picture I can take one for you.
Wayne Edgerton
N602WT flying
Hello,
since I didn't give up on the Rivethead door-pin set I want to
proceed with my
door installation. could some one post pictures of the installed
door pins and
what changes are required to the original setup.
I am currently installing Steve DiNieris door handles and want to
make sure that
I don't do something irreversible for the Rivethead door-pin set
up.
Best Regards
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (fuselage)
#511
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
I am planning on flying to Albuquerque and Santa Fe fairly soon and was
wondering if any of you living in the area or are familiar with the area
have any suggestions on which FBO would be the best to use. I also would
like to get hungered while there, if possible.
Wayne Edgerton
N602WT flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door pins installation pictures needed |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Hello Wayne,
a close up picture if the part which is on the door frame and the pin would be
great. Thanks for your explanations that help already ahead.
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (fuselage)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141925#141925
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Door pins installation pictures needed |
Mike, Try these
Parts: http://deemsrv10.com/album/CNC%20Parts/slides/DSC04757.html
Installed :
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2045%20Cabin%20Doors%20and%20Transparancies/slides/DSC04754.html
(click forward 5 pix)
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
>
> Hello Wayne,
>
> a close up picture if the part which is on the door frame and the pin would be
great.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> |
"Just heard from Larry Vetterman and he believes the pipes should extend
abo
ut 5". He also told if there was no exhaust stains directly behind the
pip
es they were the right length and adding length would only increase
drag.
Mark"
You mean extend about 5" past exiting the cowl?
Tim Dawson-Townsend
Aurora Flight Sciences
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: airport info |
There is only one FBO in ABQ and they are very nice. Hangar is $25/
night and they are very accommodating. They will drive you in town,
give you a loaner car (few hours) and the fuel price is not bad.
They left a good impression on me.
Everything is priced higher in SEF. I would rate the services in SEF
lower than ABQ.
On Oct 26, 2007, at 7:31 AM, Wayne Edgerton wrote:
> I am planning on flying to Albuquerque and Santa Fe fairly soon and
> was wondering if any of you living in the area or are familiar with
> the area have any suggestions on which FBO would be the best to
> use. I also would like to get hungered while there, if possible.
>
> Wayne Edgerton
>
> N602WT flying
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Ritter <mritter509(at)msn.com> |
Yes - 5" past the cowl.
Subject: RV10-List: ExhaustDate: Fri, 26 Oct 2007 10:00:32 -0400From: tdaws
on-townsend(at)aurora.aeroTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
=93Just heard from Larry Vetterman and he believes the pipes should extend
abo
ut 5". He also told if there was no exhaust stains directly behind the pip
es they were the right length and adding length would only increase drag.
Mark=94
You mean extend about 5=94 past exiting the cowl?
Tim Dawson-Townsend
Aurora Flight Sciences
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
_________________________________________________________________
!
ilnews
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve - current sources? |
Neal was good to me. Don't forget to order the extension kit! =0A=0AThere a
re several Andair install photos under the "Fuse" link here: =0Ahttp://www.
brinkmeyers.net/AirplaneBuilding.htm=0A=0ARegards,=0AJay=0A=0A=0A=0A_______
m
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Alternate static valve - Thanks, folks! |
| From: | "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> |
hey all -
so after I posted I searched further, and I found possibly a better part
# for this air valve toggle, if any are interested. The earlier part #
was a 3 way valve toggle, which just means that you have to block off
one of the exit ports. There's a 2 way one which just has an inlet and
an outlet, and the switch body is even smaller. I think the part # is
TV-2SP and it looks like this:
http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=TV-2S
except it's got a 1/8 NPT inlet on the back. There's no picture of this
specific one in the catalog, but I've ordered one, so we'll see if it's
neato. I'll report back after I receive it, and let y'all know if it's
super-mega-fantastico or no. the only bummer here is that while the
switch is around $9, they charge $7 for shipping, and $10 for HANDLING!
Must come in a velvet lined box :) whatever... I'm just the sort of
fool who'll pay for the convenience of not having to run around the city
to hunt this little bugger down. too busy covering myself in fiberglass
dust.
cj
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Ackerman
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 10:17 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Alternate static valve - Thanks, folks!
Thanks to all who replied with excellent suggestions for an
alternate static panel mount valve.
Several suggestions looked good to me.
However, I've been looking for one that will toggle between normal
and alternate, and my panel is made to accommodate that. I'll look
first at the Clippard MTV-3P as suggested by Chris Johnson.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | Alternate static valve - Thanks, folks! |
I used a similar toggle. McMaster P/N 6791T13. Cost was $12. It had a
pretty large plastic handle that I shortened a little.
It's been static tested to 20K' and didn't leak at all.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Ackerman
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 10:17 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Alternate static valve - Thanks, folks!
Thanks to all who replied with excellent suggestions for an alternate
static panel mount valve.
Several suggestions looked good to me.
However, I've been looking for one that will toggle between normal and
alternate, and my panel is made to accommodate that. I'll look first at the
Clippard MTV-3P as suggested by Chris Johnson.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Lenhardt" <av8or(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stall warning location |
The reason I was told it's on the left side is because the usual traffic
pattern is to the left. The left wing goes slower in a left turn than a
right so the airspeed on that wing in that critical phase of flight
would be the lowest. This would warn of the stall on that wing which
would occur before the right wing resulting in the stall/spin.
John Lenhardt
#40262
----- Original Message -----
From: plevenda(at)jvlv.lv
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 8:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Stall warning location
Well, count one for "candle moth syndrome". I pulled out my first
quickbuild wing yesterday, which was the right wing. I set it on the
table, removed the bottom skin and went to work. In the process, as I
got around to the leading edge, I noticed the two pre-drilled holes for
the stall warning vane. So I flipped to the page in the manual and went
to work cutting out an access hole and the slot for the vane. Only AFTER
I had all that done did I remember I was working on the right wing. It
was also then that I noticed that Van's pre-driled holes for the stall
warning on BOTH wings. Oh and yes there is a caution note in the manual,
but like I said, "Candle Moth"
In all my years of flying I was never given a reason why the stall
warning is traditionaly on the left wing. So now do I accept an extra
access hole, patch up the slot on the right wing and start all over
again on the left wing, or is there any reason why the stall warning
would not still work on the right wing even though it is not in the
traditional location.
--------
Paul Levenda
#40090
N974LV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141602#141602
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve - current sources? |
Thanks Jay. Those pics are a lot of help. I canceled my order pending
a bit more research into configuration and availability.
I intend to configure the same model you installed. It appears to be
the same one that Neal sold and recommends.
It looks like 6" of extension is more than enough. Do you agree?
Is that the extension with the universal joint? Or just a straight
extension? (I'm thinking <6" straight extension w/o ujoint is what I need)
I'm going to check with A/C Spruce and Vans regarding their stock to see
if they have the configuration that Neal was selling including the
extension. If not, I'm going back to Andair....
... unless Neal decides to try another batch buy. No urgent hurry here,
I realize it may take weeks. So I can join in if Neal decides to do it.
Bill "jumping from brakes, rudders and fuel lines" Watson
Durham NC - #40605
Jay Brinkmeyer wrote:
> Neal was good to me. Don't forget to order the extension kit!
>
> There are several Andair install photos under the "Fuse" link here:
> http://www.brinkmeyers.net/AirplaneBuilding.htm
>
> Regards,
> Jay
>
> ___________________________
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
check the blue fitting
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: plexiglass bond to fiberglass |
| From: | n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net |
Not to start a mess here..... I agree Weld On-10 holds the windows better
than epoxy. But after having using Weld On-10 and having many issues with
it (like it cracks the windows, even under light pressure clamping,
flashes over very fast, gets very stringy, and is very hard to clean up),
I am not going to use it on my RV-10. We had to re-install 2 windows (one
being the 1/4" windshield) on my friends RV-10 do to cracks emminating
from the adhesive joints.
I spoke with Jeff at AirPlastics (they make the RV-10 window for Van's).
He DOES NOT recommend using Weld On-10 as it is too aggressive of an
adhesive and he said he has heard of many issues from it. He recommended
other adhesives such as Sika Flex. When we replaced his windshield, we
used the Sika Flex. There is a black primer you put down, then the caulk
type adhesive. It worked great, was much easier to use, and the total
cost was about the same as the 5 bottles of Weld On 10. I used Sika Flex
292UV black along with Sika 209 primer.
I did not compare it side by side with Weld On-10 like eagerlee. That
would be a nice comparison. But I did play with it on our old windshield
and it is very strong.
Just my $0.02 cents worth, after using them both to install windows....
-Mike Kraus
2032 RV-4 Flying
40013 RV-10 FWF/Wiring
>
> I got some Weld On - 10 and replicated my previous experiment with
> structural epoxy as a bonding agent for the RV-10 windows. Again i scuffed
> a test block of plexi and fiberglass, wiped clean with alcohol, glued and
> clamped the pieces, let the glue cure for 24 hours. The difference was day
> and night. When I hit the epoxy test piece with a ball peen hammer to
> provide a sheer force, the bond between the Plexiglas and epoxy failed by
> a clean separation with a moderate blow of the hammer. I could not get
> the bond between the plexiglas and the Weld On to fail using severe blows
> from the same hammer: the plexiglas itself failed first. I'm going to use
> the weld on to fasten my windows and then fill the edge gaps with a
> structural epoxy and do an overlay of glass fiber mat to prevent the paint
> from cracking. One last comment: the Weld On was mixed by an eyeball
> estimate of 13 to 1 ratio and had a date stamped on the carton Jul '06.
> I assume that precision ratio and current mat!
> erial would yield a stronger bond.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141889#141889
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Newman" <rnewman(at)lutron.com> |
| Subject: | section 33-10 help |
Ok guys, I've searched the manual and the parts lists and bag list and
I can't find the following part F-6114B and F6114C anywhere except on
the instruction page 33-10. These are a pair of wear blocks that are
to be modified as shown on page 33-10. Are we to fabricate these from
raw material and if so what thickness?
Thanks for your help,
Bob Newman
slowbuild N541RV inside the fuse :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door pins installation pictures needed |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Thanks Deems,
thats exactly what I needed!
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (fuselage)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141988#141988
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve - current sources? |
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
Bill,
Why don't you just order the FS 20X7T that Van's offers for $205? 90 degree swing
between left and right and 90 degree AN6 ports. Seems almost a drop in replacement,
only you don't have to criss-cross the fuel lines. You don't even
have to lower it and use an extension.
See it here or search for :Fuel Selector Valves":
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1193417645-34-690&browse=airframe&product=fuel-selector-valve
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
-------- Original Message --------
>
>
> Thanks Jay. Those pics are a lot of help. I canceled my order pending
> a bit more research into configuration and availability.
>
> I intend to configure the same model you installed. It appears to be
> the same one that Neal sold and recommends.
> It looks like 6" of extension is more than enough. Do you agree?
> Is that the extension with the universal joint? Or just a straight
> extension? (I'm thinking <6" straight extension w/o ujoint is what I need)
>
> I'm going to check with A/C Spruce and Vans regarding their stock to see
> if they have the configuration that Neal was selling including the
> extension. If not, I'm going back to Andair....
>
> ... unless Neal decides to try another batch buy. No urgent hurry here,
> I realize it may take weeks. So I can join in if Neal decides to do it.
>
> Bill "jumping from brakes, rudders and fuel lines" Watson
> Durham NC - #40605
>
> Jay Brinkmeyer wrote:
> > Neal was good to me. Don't forget to order the extension kit!
> >
> > There are several Andair install photos under the "Fuse" link here:
> > http://www.brinkmeyers.net/AirplaneBuilding.htm
> >
> > Regards,
> > Jay
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DLIUDVINAITIS(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: section 33-10 help |
Hi Bob
the f-6114 uhmw in question are in subkit #7 of slowbuild kit. ask me how
i no we are at same area in our build
Dave Ludd
NJ #40466, close up of backage area
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Newman" <rnewman(at)lutron.com> |
| Subject: | Re: section 33-10 help |
Dave, Thanks for the help. I'm near Allentown PA (1N9) if you
every are in the area drop me an email. your welcome to visit my shop.
-Bob Newman
TCW Technologies
rnewman(at)tcwtech.com
>>> DLIUDVINAITIS(at)aol.com 10/26/2007 5:09 PM >>>
Hi Bob
the f-6114 uhmw in question are in subkit #7 of slowbuild kit. ask
me how
i no we are at same area in our build
Dave Ludd
NJ #40466, close up of backage area
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve - current sources? |
William, I was looking at that and talked to them. I'm right now of the
opinion that I want the extension and that I want to lower the valve
body 4 or 5 inches. That gives the SCAT tubing a clear run and seems to
avoid any rudder cable, fuel line interference.
The FS20X7T at Vans is a GREAT price and except for the extension, the
right valve. It is basically a drop-in replace for the kit supplied
valve but people seemed to have struggled a bit with the SCAT and rudder
cable. I thought that I might be able to pick the valve up from Spruce
and an extension from ACSpruce. But Spruce indicates that they only
sell the extension with a valve. The Andair site makes it clear there
is an A and B type valve - only the B will accept the extension. And,
adding an extension to a B is a bit more than just inserting a piece of
rod. Andair will sell an extension kit for a B model but by the time
you get done, you are within $75 of just ordering the whole thing from
the factory.
I'm agonizing here a bit but the recently reported problems with the kit
valve pushed me over the edge to get the Andair. And once there, I'm
trying to get it as right as I can without recreating the same problems
others have had.
The frugal decision seems to be to use the kit valve
The crafty decision would be to get the Vans valve and solve the minor
tunnel space issues
The do it as right as I can figure and damn the cost decision seems to
be just order the thing from the factory.
Did someone say 'budget'?
William Curtis wrote:
>
> Bill,
>
> Why don't you just order the FS 20X7T that Van's offers for $205? 90 degree
swing between left and right and 90 degree AN6 ports. Seems almost a drop in
replacement, only you don't have to criss-cross the fuel lines. You don't even
have to lower it and use an extension.
>
> See it here or search for :Fuel Selector Valves":
> http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1193417645-34-690&browse=airframe&product=fuel-selector-valve
>
> William
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
>
> -------- Original Message --------
>
>>
>> Thanks Jay. Those pics are a lot of help. I canceled my order pending
>> a bit more research into configuration and availability.
>>
>> I intend to configure the same model you installed. It appears to be
>> the same one that Neal sold and recommends.
>> It looks like 6" of extension is more than enough. Do you agree?
>> Is that the extension with the universal joint? Or just a straight
>> extension? (I'm thinking <6" straight extension w/o ujoint is what I need)
>>
>> I'm going to check with A/C Spruce and Vans regarding their stock to see
>> if they have the configuration that Neal was selling including the
>> extension. If not, I'm going back to Andair....
>>
>> ... unless Neal decides to try another batch buy. No urgent hurry here,
>> I realize it may take weeks. So I can join in if Neal decides to do it.
>>
>> Bill "jumping from brakes, rudders and fuel lines" Watson
>> Durham NC - #40605
>>
>> Jay Brinkmeyer wrote:
>>
>>> Neal was good to me. Don't forget to order the extension kit!
>>>
>>> There are several Andair install photos under the "Fuse" link here:
>>> http://www.brinkmeyers.net/AirplaneBuilding.htm
>>>
>>> Regards,
>>> Jay
>>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve - current sources? |
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
Seems the path of least resistance is to use the Vans offering and route th
e rear cabin heat via the original path. With the input fuel lines 90 degr
ees apart and the center output port, you should also be able to route the
rear heater cable through those lines also as an option.=0A=0AWilliam
=0Ahttp://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ =0A=0A-------- Original Message ----
er(at)nc.rr.com>=0A> =0A> William, I was looking at that and talked to t
hem. I'm right now of the =0A> opinion that I want the extension and th
at I want to lower the valve =0A> body 4 or 5 inches. That gives the SC
AT tubing a clear run and seems to =0A> avoid any rudder cable, fuel lin
e interference.=0A> =0A> The FS20X7T at Vans is a GREAT price and exc
ept for the extension, the =0A> right valve. It is basically a drop-in
replace for the kit supplied =0A> valve but people seemed to have strugg
led a bit with the SCAT and rudder =0A> cable. I thought that I might b
e able to pick the valve up from Spruce =0A> and an extension from ACSpr
uce. But Spruce indicates that they only =0A> sell the extension with a
valve. The Andair site makes it clear there =0A> is an A and B type va
lve - only the B will accept the extension. And, =0A> adding an extensi
on to a B is a bit more than just inserting a piece of =0A> rod. Andair
will sell an extension kit for a B model but by the time =0A> you get d
one, you are within $75 of just ordering the whole thing from =0A> the
factory.=0A> =0A> I'm agonizing here a bit but the recently reported
problems with the kit =0A> valve pushed me over the edge to get the Anda
ir. And once there, I'm =0A> trying to get it as right as I can without
recreating the same problems =0A> others have had.=0A> =0A> The f
rugal decision seems to be to use the kit valve=0A> The crafty decision
would be to get the Vans valve and solve the minor =0A> tunnel space iss
ues=0A> The do it as right as I can figure and damn the cost decision se
ems to =0A> be just order the thing from the factory.=0A> =0A> Did
someone say 'budget'?=0A> =0A> William Curtis wrote:=0A> > --> RV
10-List message posted by: "William Curtis" =0A> >
=0A> > Bill,=0A> >=0A> > Why don't you just order the FS 20X7T tha
t Van's offers for $205? 90 degree swing between left and right and 90 de
gree AN6 ports. Seems almost a drop in replacement, only you don't have to
criss-cross the fuel lines. You don't even have to lower it and use an ex
tension.=0A> >=0A> > See it here or search for :Fuel Selector Valves"
:=0A> > http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=11934176
45-34-690&browse=airframe&product=fuel-selector-valve=0A> >=0A> >
William=0A> > http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ =0A> >=0A> > -------- Or
iginal Message --------=0A> > =0A> >> --> RV10-List message posted
by: MauleDriver =0A> >>=0A> >> Thanks Jay. Th
ose pics are a lot of help. I canceled my order pending =0A> >> a bit m
ore research into configuration and availability.=0A> >>=0A> >> I int
end to configure the same model you installed. It appears to be =0A> >
> the same one that Neal sold and recommends.=0A> >> It looks like 6" o
f extension is more than enough. Do you agree?=0A> >> Is that the exten
sion with the universal joint? Or just a straight =0A> >> extension? (
I'm thinking <6" straight extension w/o ujoint is what I need)=0A> >>
=0A> >> I'm going to check with A/C Spruce and Vans regarding their stock t
o see =0A> >> if they have the configuration that Neal was selling inclu
ding the =0A> >> extension. If not, I'm going back to Andair....=0A>
>>=0A> >> ... unless Neal decides to try another batch buy. No urgent
hurry here, =0A> >> I realize it may take weeks. So I can join in if Ne
al decides to do it.=0A> >>=0A> >> Bill "jumping from brakes, rudders
and fuel lines" Watson=0A> >> Durham NC - #40605=0A> >>=0A> >> Ja
y Brinkmeyer wrote:=0A> >> =0A> >>> Neal was good to me. Don't fo
rget to order the extension kit!=0A> >>>=0A> >>> There are several An
dair install photos under the "Fuse" link here:=0A> >>> http://www.brink
meyers.net/AirplaneBuilding.htm=0A> >>>=0A> >>> Regards,=0A> >>> J
ay=0A> >>> =0A> >=0A> >=0A> >=0A> >=0A> >=0A> >
========== =0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve - current sources? |
I purchased my valve from Neal and thankfully he knew all the parts that
were needed for the extension. I probably would have ended up ordering crap
I didn't need. I attached I pic of my extension setup.
Steven dinieri
Iflyrv10.com
capsteve(at)adelphia.net
716.579.5790
William, I was looking at that and talked to them. I'm right now of the
opinion that I want the extension and that I want to lower the valve body 4
or 5 inches. That gives the SCAT tubing a clear run and seems to avoid any
rudder cable, fuel line interference.
The FS20X7T at Vans is a GREAT price and except for the extension, the right
valve. It is basically a drop-in replace for the kit supplied valve but
people seemed to have struggled a bit with the SCAT and rudder cable. I
thought that I might be able to pick the valve up from Spruce and an
extension from ACSpruce. But Spruce indicates that they only sell the
extension with a valve. The Andair site makes it clear there is an A and B
type valve - only the B will accept the extension. And, adding an extension
to a B is a bit more than just inserting a piece of rod. Andair will sell
an extension kit for a B model but by the time you get done, you are within
$75 of just ordering the whole thing from the factory.
I'm agonizing here a bit but the recently reported problems with the kit
valve pushed me over the edge to get the Andair. And once there, I'm trying
to get it as right as I can without recreating the same problems others have
had.
The frugal decision seems to be to use the kit valve The crafty decision
would be to get the Vans valve and solve the minor tunnel space issues The
do it as right as I can figure and damn the cost decision seems to be just
order the thing from the factory.
Did someone say 'budget'?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
N991RV first flew on 10/23. 4 hours now but oil temps are too high - 245 -
so I'm trying to fix that. Otherwise, it flies great, just as I hoped. What
a plane!
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Congratulations Albert from Switzerland. Let us know what the reason was for the
high oil temps and what you did to get them down.
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (fuselage)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=142119#142119
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Kuddos - beautiful paint job too. You are an inspiration
to all other "older" builders. Hope you get the oil thing worked out
without too much hassle. Did you use the Vans or the oversize
oil cooler? :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=142123#142123
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
| From: | darnpilot(at)aol.com |
Seems like the oil cooling problem is pretty common on the RV...even most experimental
planes.? Why is that?? What is the usual cause and/or cure?? Why not address
it in the initial assembly?? Why would it vary between airplanes?
Jeff
________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | A reminder on rivet lines in glass |
For the recent builders: I visited Copperstate and admired a 10 there. We
discussed his paint job and looked at the fiberglass areas after 60 hours.
The external rivet lines that result from the cowling hinges and lid
attachment to the aluminum were beginning to show rivet heads through the
paint. This will occur unless the aircraft has a layer of Eglass over the
rivet line. Ask me how I know; I missed the few rivets around the oil door
on my Glastar. He also has an indentation beginning to show were the windows
meet the flange of the lid. Both problems can be avoided by glassing a 1
inch wide strip on a 45 degree bias around the edges of the window flange
and over the rivet lines in the cowl. The Eglass is then covered with a thin
coat of Evercoat finishing, sanded smooth and feathered into the adjacent
structure.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net> |
Congratulations! It looks great.
Have fun with the testing,
Marcus
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2007 12:08 AM
Subject: RV10-List: First Flight
N991RV first flew on 10/23. 4 hours now but oil temps are too high - 245 -
so I'm trying to fix that. Otherwise, it flies great, just as I hoped. What
a plane!
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Woods" <rwshooter(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re:Shipping costs |
Hey All,
Haven't been around in a while, been building the hangar. Be done next
week at 3L2.....Yea!.....Ive noticed while lurking when I can that there are
alot of complaints about shipping costs. I was having a huge problem at
work with shipping prices doubling and sometimes tripling for all kinds of
reasons all this year. I spend around 200 to 250K a year in receiving my
stuff. I had enough and asked my office for a solution......my secretary
found Unishippers. We tried them out on a small 3 day air order....This
order with the regular guy's.....you know who they are, was anywhere from
$860.00 to $980.00. Unishippers $248.00 and it was on time. WOW!.....We are
now using them daily....couldn't be happier. Hope this can help you guy's
too.............btw....everyone is making great progress on your
builds..keep up the good work.....I'm right behind ya
Robb
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net>
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2007 8:32 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Andair Fuel Valve - current sources?
I purchased my valve from Neal and thankfully he knew all the parts that
were needed for the extension. I probably would have ended up ordering crap
I didn't need. I attached I pic of my extension setup.
Steven dinieri
Iflyrv10.com
capsteve(at)adelphia.net
716.579.5790
William, I was looking at that and talked to them. I'm right now of the
opinion that I want the extension and that I want to lower the valve body 4
or 5 inches. That gives the SCAT tubing a clear run and seems to avoid any
rudder cable, fuel line interference.
The FS20X7T at Vans is a GREAT price and except for the extension, the right
valve. It is basically a drop-in replace for the kit supplied valve but
people seemed to have struggled a bit with the SCAT and rudder cable. I
thought that I might be able to pick the valve up from Spruce and an
extension from ACSpruce. But Spruce indicates that they only sell the
extension with a valve. The Andair site makes it clear there is an A and B
type valve - only the B will accept the extension. And, adding an extension
to a B is a bit more than just inserting a piece of rod. Andair will sell
an extension kit for a B model but by the time you get done, you are within
$75 of just ordering the whole thing from the factory.
I'm agonizing here a bit but the recently reported problems with the kit
valve pushed me over the edge to get the Andair. And once there, I'm trying
to get it as right as I can without recreating the same problems others have
had.
The frugal decision seems to be to use the kit valve The crafty decision
would be to get the Vans valve and solve the minor tunnel space issues The
do it as right as I can figure and damn the cost decision seems to be just
order the thing from the factory.
Did someone say 'budget'?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Rob Ray ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Rob Ray
Lists: Rocket-List,RV-List,RV3-List,RV4-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV9-List,RV10-List
Subject: Bigger Tires
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/smokyray@yahoo.com.10.27.2007/index.html
----------------------------------------------------------
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
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6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
----------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: plexiglass bond to fiberglass |
| From: | "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net> |
If you don't want to use Sika-Flex or Weld-On, try using 3M 2216 Structual Epoxy.
I use this stuff everywhere, even on my RV8 that is 7 years old and has over
1100 hours on it.
I installed my Rv10 windows, NACA ducts, Rudder Cable Fairings etc... with this
product. I was trimming around the interior windows with a razor and it slipped
and put a nice gouge in the window. I tried to polish the window scratch
out to no avail.
Ok. I neeed to replace the rear window. Got a chisel out and started to try and
pry it off. No luck. Started tapping the chisel with a hammer. Nothing.
I finally smacked the plexi with a hammer to beak it and create a place where
I could stick my chisel in and pry the plexi off. The plexi was "welded" on
to the fiberglass! I had to add heat from a heat gun to persuade it to come off.
Long story short....use 2216 epoxy for your windows if you want. It works, has
a slow cure time so you can work a little easier. Does not need a "primer".
Just rough up both mating surfaces with 40 or 80 grit. I forgot to mention
that I thicken up the epoxy with some 407 or 406 Colloidal Silca from West Systems
so it does not sag. Cool stuff.
And one more thing....Be careful with razor blades around your plexi.
Zack
See pic below...
n223rv(at)wolflakeairport wrote:
> Not to start a mess here..... I agree Weld On-10 holds the windows better
> than epoxy. But after having using Weld On-10 and having many issues with
> it (like it cracks the windows, even under light pressure clamping,
> flashes over very fast, gets very stringy, and is very hard to clean up),
> I am not going to use it on my RV-10. We had to re-install 2 windows (one
> being the 1/4" windshield) on my friends RV-10 do to cracks emminating
> from the adhesive joints.
>
> I spoke with Jeff at AirPlastics (they make the RV-10 window for Van's).
> He DOES NOT recommend using Weld On-10 as it is too aggressive of an
> adhesive and he said he has heard of many issues from it. He recommended
> other adhesives such as Sika Flex. When we replaced his windshield, we
> used the Sika Flex. There is a black primer you put down, then the caulk
> type adhesive. It worked great, was much easier to use, and the total
> cost was about the same as the 5 bottles of Weld On 10. I used Sika Flex
> 292UV black along with Sika 209 primer.
>
> I did not compare it side by side with Weld On-10 like eagerlee. That
> would be a nice comparison. But I did play with it on our old windshield
> and it is very strong.
>
> Just my $0.02 cents worth, after using them both to install windows....
>
> -Mike Kraus
> 2032 RV-4 Flying
> 40013 RV-10 FWF/Wiring
>
>
>
>
> >
> >
> > I got some Weld On - 10 and replicated my previous experiment with
> > structural epoxy as a bonding agent for the RV-10 windows. Again i scuffed
> > a test block of plexi and fiberglass, wiped clean with alcohol, glued and
> > clamped the pieces, let the glue cure for 24 hours. The difference was day
> > and night. When I hit the epoxy test piece with a ball peen hammer to
> > provide a sheer force, the bond between the Plexiglas and epoxy failed by
> > a clean separation with a moderate blow of the hammer. I could not get
> > the bond between the plexiglas and the Weld On to fail using severe blows
> > from the same hammer: the plexiglas itself failed first. I'm going to use
> > the weld on to fasten my windows and then fill the edge gaps with a
> > structural epoxy and do an overlay of glass fiber mat to prevent the paint
> > from cracking. One last comment: the Weld On was mixed by an eyeball
> > estimate of 13 to 1 ratio and had a date stamped on the carton Jul '06.
> > I assume that precision ratio and current mat!
> > erial would yield a stronger bond.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141889#141889
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=142229#142229
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc07275_565.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
I'm going to float my opinion, so take it for what it's worth. I think
the cause is poor baffle seals, and the difference between planes is due
to difference in the sealing. Let's face it, using the upper cowl as
the top of the plenum is a poor choice to start with, and it only goes
downhill from there. It's not a new problem, even the certificated ones
don't seal well once they age a little. Sealing all the baffle leaks is
the biggest high temp killer you have.
So, what's the solution??? Mine will be to add a fiberglass (or carbon
fiber) sheet to make a plenum from the air intakes to the back of the
engine, using the stock baffles minus the baffle seal material. I'll pay
particular attention to the area around the starter and all the areas
where the aluminum baffle material meets the engine. One other
overlooked area is the gap between the spinner and the cowl. Air comes
into the inlet, and is sucked forward around the flywheel and then out
between the spinner and cowl. To seal this area, take some foam pipe
covers .... the type to prevent pipes from sweating and glue it in a
ring around the area just behind the spinner. A really tight fit is
good since on first startup it becomes self forming.
Linn .... but I'm nowhere there yet!
darnpilot(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Seems like the oil cooling problem is pretty common on the RV...even
> most experimental planes. Why is that? What is the usual cause
> and/or cure? Why not address it in the initial assembly? Why would
> it vary between airplanes?
>
> Jeff
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail
> <http://o.aolcdn.com/cdn.webmail.aol.com/mailtour/aol/en-us/index.htm?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000970>!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | First Flight Oil Temps |
Regarding oil temps.
Tim has some great advice (as always) and I am looking at various things.
The stock oil cooler for one. I have a 10:1 engine and it may always run a
little hot in addition to not yet being broke in. The 245 temps are at 2000'
and WOT and 80 OAT so it's near the worst case. Today, running at 16" MAP
and 1750 rpm oil was 203F. Looks a little better.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | WD-1002 / F1001B / F1040 Fuse channel rivet holes |
Hi Again
I have a follow-up question for builders who have / are going through the
forward fuse construction. After a couple of emails / calls to Vans, it
appears that a reduced edge clearance for the to upper flange rivets is
okay. Unfortunately the edge clearances that I have achieved are still
woefully inadequate (at least to me).
I have spent quite a bit of time trying sort out what the problem is with
the WD1002. It appears that the edge of the top flange runs very close to
the line of rivet holes in the F1001B flange. As a result it requires
considerable clamping to get any sort of edge clearance when match drilling.
This clamping in turn seems to cause a distortion the firewall as it causes
a twist in the WD1002 base. I have this problem in both my WD1002 weldments.
Fortunately, the WD1003 weldments seem okay and require only a *little*
clamping to get good edge distances.
I would be interested in finding out if other builders have had the same
problem and if so how did they handle it.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643 - Frustrated in the fuse ..
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: October-21-07 6:49 PM
Subject: RV10-List: WD-1002 / F1001B / F1040 Fuse channel rivet holes
Hi
Last night I started match drilling the holes in the WD1002 steel weldment
that is attached to the firewall. Using the guide holes in the F-1001B as a
guide and after clamping the top WD-1002 flange to get the best edge
clearance possible, I still only got a 3/32 edge clearance (measured from
the edge of the rivet hole) on most of the holes.
Given that that the weldments are steel and not aluminium is this edge
clearance sufficient?
The archives indicate that that these parts have been problematic for some.
Based on what I read, I knew to be fairly aggressive in clamping the parts
to get the most clearance possible. Interestingly, I did have to shim the
side (towards the skin) WD-1002 flanges about a 1/8" to get reasonable edge
clearance. Even so, the maximum edge clearance would be just over 1/8" if
the rivets were evenly spaced on the flange. This suggests that 3/16"
spacing might be okay in this application.
Personally, I think this is one area where the plans should give the builder
a bit of a heads up as to what to do and what to expect.
Any comments or should I talk to the Van's order desk yet again..
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643 - Frustrated in the fuse ..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Great results after installing new Trim Controller |
For those of you who've had the opportunity to see the RV-10's elevator
trim sensitivy in action (especially those who've taken a demo flight
with me because I like to show them first hand), I have a great write-up
for you.
After talking with Bob about his "Safety-Trim" system, I was intrigued
because I was just about to finally tackle the touchy elevator trim
problem and his system did an even better job at addressing some issues
than what my plans were. So, I jumped on his trim controller in
hopes that it would be the holy grail of trim controllers.
Today I finished installing the 2-speed 2-axis trim controller, and
got it out for some flight testing. I think it's going to be a winner,
and I think it's something that quite a few of you would highly
appreciate.
Sorry that it's a long write, up, but it covers a lot of ground,
including my chosen method for getting dual-speed integrated into
the RV-10.
Here's the write-up:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20071027/index.html
The devil's in the details of this one. Messing with trim is
something you want to do right.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Dunne" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Great results after installing new Trim Controller |
Great write up Tim.
This is what I've been looking for. I've been more than a tad concerned
about the possible severe forces that could be imposed with accidental
application of too much trim at high speeds and more so, runaway trim
possibilities on the current system and the problem with a reset.
I'll admit I'm more at home with a manual trim system on any aircraft I've
flown but that is usually because it isn't as easy to aquire an instant
"feel" for an electronic system versus a roll with the wheel, at least that
has been my experience.
I'm not sure if this is the same person and company that was mentioned a few
months back by someone when the discussion came up on the list about runaway
trims and resets?
I agree and believe if it works as advertised then this might be a good
safety edition.
Once again great writeup and thankyou for your research!
John 40315
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 4:35 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Great results after installing new Trim Controller
>
> For those of you who've had the opportunity to see the RV-10's elevator
> trim sensitivy in action (especially those who've taken a demo flight
> with me because I like to show them first hand), I have a great write-up
> for you.
>
> After talking with Bob about his "Safety-Trim" system, I was intrigued
> because I was just about to finally tackle the touchy elevator trim
> problem and his system did an even better job at addressing some issues
> than what my plans were. So, I jumped on his trim controller in
> hopes that it would be the holy grail of trim controllers.
>
> Today I finished installing the 2-speed 2-axis trim controller, and
> got it out for some flight testing. I think it's going to be a winner,
> and I think it's something that quite a few of you would highly
> appreciate.
>
> Sorry that it's a long write, up, but it covers a lot of ground,
> including my chosen method for getting dual-speed integrated into
> the RV-10.
>
> Here's the write-up:
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20071027/index.html
>
> The devil's in the details of this one. Messing with trim is
> something you want to do right.
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Great results after installing new Trim Controller |
Looks pretty neat. How much did it cost you for the whole project?
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 1:36 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Great results after installing new Trim Controller
For those of you who've had the opportunity to see the RV-10's elevator
trim sensitivy in action (especially those who've taken a demo flight
with me because I like to show them first hand), I have a great write-up
for you.
After talking with Bob about his "Safety-Trim" system, I was intrigued
because I was just about to finally tackle the touchy elevator trim
problem and his system did an even better job at addressing some issues
than what my plans were. So, I jumped on his trim controller in
hopes that it would be the holy grail of trim controllers.
Today I finished installing the 2-speed 2-axis trim controller, and
got it out for some flight testing. I think it's going to be a winner,
and I think it's something that quite a few of you would highly
appreciate.
Sorry that it's a long write, up, but it covers a lot of ground,
including my chosen method for getting dual-speed integrated into
the RV-10.
Here's the write-up:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20071027/index.html
The devil's in the details of this one. Messing with trim is
something you want to do right.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | A reminder on rivet lines in glass |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
David, you have a good eye on the emerging trend. As you might remember
from about a year past, I had posted pictures of cracks which developed
in fillets from the use of microballoon. I also showed pictures of
recesses in poly filler which takes 18 to 24 months to reach mature
cure. That can really hurt when you lay a three color, custom paint job
over those fasteners. Your post on the use of a layer of Eglass was
picked up by Deems in his build. I am confident that time will prove
the wisdom of the technique.
I think many following the build it by the instructions from VANS will
find that skills of Sheetmetal and rivet building have to change as the
composite parts count and techniques need to be adapted to those with
skill at plastic planes.
It was too bad that only N110GS made it to Copperstate. I did enjoy
seeing it as well as Jon Sharp's NXT, the Spooky C-47 and a new Light
Sport offering though. 94 degrees in late October - Wow. Back to the
rain and the Pacific NW humidity patterns.
John Cox
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2007 7:14 AM
Subject: RV10-List: A reminder on rivet lines in glass
For the recent builders: I visited Copperstate and admired a 10 there.
We discussed his paint job and looked at the fiberglass areas after 60
hours. The external rivet lines that result from the cowling hinges and
lid attachment to the aluminum were beginning to show rivet heads
through the paint. This will occur unless the aircraft has a layer of
Eglass over the rivet line. Ask me how I know; I missed the few rivets
around the oil door on my Glastar. He also has an indentation beginning
to show were the windows meet the flange of the lid. Both problems can
be avoided by glassing a 1 inch wide strip on a 45 degree bias around
the edges of the window flange and over the rivet lines in the cowl. The
Eglass is then covered with a thin coat of Evercoat finishing, sanded
smooth and feathered into the adjacent structure.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
| Subject: | Safety-Trim Promotion |
Fellow RV builders,
Thanks to all of those who have visited our site and
especially to those who are now customers. If you visited our site
previously, please take a second look, we now have two new promotions
up that will help lower the cost of a Safety-Trim intelligent servo
controller system. Please visit our site www.tcwtech.com to learn
more.
Thanks,
Bob Newman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Rolling the front fuse skis |
Hi
As I worked through section 29 I found that I didn=92t like the
suggested
method for rolling the front fuse skins (page 29-11). When doing the
rear
skins, the angles are clecoed in place along the length of the skin to
be
rolled. This is very secure and easy to manipulate. The front skin
method is
different in that it requires the construction roll angles to be only
clamped in place.
The risk with this approach is that if a clamp slips, you may end up
ruining
a skin. Using the recommended method, I did have a clamp start to move
and
the angles did start to splay apart somewhat. I could have used more
clamps
but I wasn=92t sure if I wanted to risk the skin.
Here is what I did which seemed to work very well:
* First I marked the end of roll line per the plans.
* Along the end roll line, I placed the edge of a 4=92 piece of
1 =BD by
1 =BD by 1/18 aluminium angle. The 1 =BD=94 angle is required to reach
the skin
holes while lined up on the end of roll line.
* I cleco clamped the aluminium angle in place and then match
drilled the skin holes into the angle.
* I removed the angle and then matched drilled these holes into
a
mirror image piece of aluminium
* I then clecod the angles back onto the skin (as if I was doing
the
aft skins)
Now I had a very secure construction roll angle to roll the forward
skins. I
then followed the instructions as per the plans.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643 ' Singing the section 29 blues
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rolling the front fuse skis |
I second this one!. When I rolled the front skins I did have one of
the van's recommended vise-grip style clamps come off and dent the skin.
Fortuneately I hardly had any pressure on the clamp and I was able to
fix the dent. However, the method in the instruction manual is
definetly flawed. I found that i was able to use a series of wood hand
clamps to secure the two angle aluminum roll guides. They worked just
fine, but I was nervous the whole time. The method described making
bigger roll guides is probably the best. Keep up the good work in
monster section 29.
-Bob Newman
----- Original Message -----
From: Les Kearney
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 5:49 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rolling the front fuse skis
Hi
As I worked through section 29 I found that I didn't like the
suggested method for rolling the front fuse skins (page 29-11). When
doing the rear skins, the angles are clecoed in place along the length
of the skin to be rolled. This is very secure and easy to manipulate.
The front skin method is different in that it requires the construction
roll angles to be only clamped in place.
The risk with this approach is that if a clamp slips, you may end up
ruining a skin. Using the recommended method, I did have a clamp start
to move and the angles did start to splay apart somewhat. I could have
used more clamps but I wasn't sure if I wanted to risk the skin.
Here is what I did which seemed to work very well:
=B7 First I marked the end of roll line per the plans.
=B7 Along the end roll line, I placed the edge of a 4' piece
of 1 =BD by 1 =BD by 1/18 aluminium angle. The 1 =BD" angle is required
to reach the skin holes while lined up on the end of roll line.
=B7 I cleco clamped the aluminium angle in place and then
match drilled the skin holes into the angle.
=B7 I removed the angle and then matched drilled these holes
into a mirror image piece of aluminium
=B7 I then clecod the angles back onto the skin (as if I was
doing the aft skins)
Now I had a very secure construction roll angle to roll the forward
skins. I then followed the instructions as per the plans.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643 - Singing the section 29 blues
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Flap Positioning System - Epilog |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
Ok, I think I have this puppy nailed.
If you have Showplanes FPS installation instructions (Iss A 2003) from
their website, it contains NO info on the 10 - throw it in the bin.
If you have Showplanes FPS installation instructions (Iss C 2004) from
Vans, it contains WRONG info on the 10 - throw it in the bin.
In the -10, flaps are retracted when the actuator is fully extended.
This is the RV-8 configuration (as correclty pointed out by Rick S.), so
measure the Positioning Rod Clamp to 5 15/16". Connect the Motor P1 to
red, and Motor P2 to black as for the 4,6,7 and 9 models. This
installation works as advertised for me.
I was wrong about the fusible links in the controller - they were
actually the PC tracks that had completely lifted from the board!!
(they certainly behaved like fusible links!). A replacement controller
module is $45 for those interested.
I would highly recommend the use of a Molex style connector between the
FPS and and flap motor, and make sure you disconnect the motor from the
FPS if you need to drive it manually.
Cheers,
187
Ron - one problem solved 4,867,164 to go!
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
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however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | Rolling the front fuse skis |
I third this=85 I unfortunately wasn=92t as smart as you. What I ended
up
doing was following vans plans pretty much. The same thing happened to
me
on the forward edge where the clamps started slipping and the aluminum
angle
actually flexed away from the skins. I was able to use the hand seamers
from avery to clamp the angles as close to the forward edge as I could.
I
found if I leaned across the workbench, cussed a whole bunch (at least
30
minutes per skin), and popped a vein in my forehead squeezing with my
hands
as hard as I could while rolling, things worked out pretty good. I
would
definitely take more time looking at it and figuring another method
(like
yours below) if I had to do it again.
I did have to massage out a crease caused by the aluminum angle slipping
on
one of them. I figure if anybody starts crawling around underneath
looking
at my =93skin bending job=94 it will be because theirs look similar. We
will
then go have a beer together while discussing runaway trim!!
Section 29 sucks!!!
-Ben
#40579
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 2:49 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rolling the front fuse skis
Hi
As I worked through section 29 I found that I didn=92t like the
suggested
method for rolling the front fuse skins (page 29-11). When doing the
rear
skins, the angles are clecoed in place along the length of the skin to
be
rolled. This is very secure and easy to manipulate. The front skin
method is
different in that it requires the construction roll angles to be only
clamped in place.
The risk with this approach is that if a clamp slips, you may end up
ruining
a skin. Using the recommended method, I did have a clamp start to move
and
the angles did start to splay apart somewhat. I could have used more
clamps
but I wasn=92t sure if I wanted to risk the skin.
Here is what I did which seemed to work very well:
* First I marked the end of roll line per the plans.
* Along the end roll line, I placed the edge of a 4=92 piece of
1 =BD by
1 =BD by 1/18 aluminium angle. The 1 =BD=94 angle is required to reach
the skin
holes while lined up on the end of roll line.
* I cleco clamped the aluminium angle in place and then match
drilled the skin holes into the angle.
* I removed the angle and then matched drilled these holes into
a
mirror image piece of aluminium
* I then clecod the angles back onto the skin (as if I was doing
the
aft skins)
Now I had a very secure construction roll angle to roll the forward
skins. I
then followed the instructions as per the plans.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643 ' Singing the section 29 blues
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | Section 23 question about torque tube installation |
I have a question about the torque tube installation on Sec 23-7. When
installing the torque tube the plans call for shimming any misalignment
forward/aft using AN960-416/L washers. After the tube is slipped in place
(scratching off a sizeable portion of my nicely primed and painted
WD-1014C's) and bolted together there was a fair amount of forward/aft play
between the bearings. An AN960-416 on each side of torque tube between the
bearings took the play out but as a result there is not enough threads
poking through the AN365-428 lock nuts to be acceptable. If I take the
washers out its might be possible to get 1 threads worth on each forward and
aft nut but that might introduce some pre load on the structure (read
squeeze things together)
Has anyone else encountered this? Should I just use a shorter lockunut?
Pictures here: http://www.sinkrate.com/rv10/pics.asp?f=sec23
-Ben
#40579
PDX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Section 23 question about torque tube installation |
Vans know about this and were going to change the plans and parts to a
thinner lock nut.
regards chris 388
----- Original Message -----
From: Ben Westfall
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 1:35 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Section 23 question about torque tube installation
I have a question about the torque tube installation on Sec 23-7.
When installing the torque tube the plans call for shimming any
misalignment forward/aft using AN960-416/L washers. After the tube is
slipped in place (scratching off a sizeable portion of my nicely primed
and painted WD-1014C's) and bolted together there was a fair amount of
forward/aft play between the bearings. An AN960-416 on each side of
torque tube between the bearings took the play out but as a result there
is not enough threads poking through the AN365-428 lock nuts to be
acceptable. If I take the washers out its might be possible to get 1
threads worth on each forward and aft nut but that might introduce some
pre load on the structure (read squeeze things together)
Has anyone else encountered this? Should I just use a shorter
lockunut?
Pictures here: http://www.sinkrate.com/rv10/pics.asp?f=sec23
-Ben
#40579
PDX
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Section 23 question about torque tube installation |
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
Aircraft Spruce 364-428 nuts are the low profile nuts that will give you your thread
engagement. Their part number is 04-01499.
Eric Kallio
40518 floors and antennas
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=142469#142469
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Glasair III Engine/Fuel Problem |
| From: | darnpilot(at)aol.com |
Update:
I spoke with the fuel servo overhauler this am.? He says the servo does have some
minor issues and "should" be overhauled (big surprise).? That said, he does
not believe the problems I've been having were caused by the servo.? So I'm poorer,
and effectively back to square one.
I guess I'm going to have to change all the fuel lines, triple check the fuel venting,
and make a sacrifice to the aviation gremlin gods (along with my dwindling
bank account) to be able to get this airplane back home.
Anybody have any other suggestions?
I'm about to give up.? Anybody interested in a Glasair III...cheap (FOB Okeechobee,
FL - OBE)?
Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: darnpilot(at)aol.com
Sent: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 9:06 am
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Glasair III Engine/Fuel Problem
The real goofy part about all this is its intermittent. So far we've been lucky
that every time its happened near an airport.
I'll have to check the Glasair manual to see where all the filters are, but we've
checked the servo screen, divider, injectors, gascolator, and replaced fuel
filter. Have not checked fuel selector or if there are any screens there or at
the tanks.
Air is the other part of the equation, and now that its mentioned, I do not thinks
its been checked. I guess the air filter and alternate air are the only points
to check?
Have not check the fuel flow into a bucket (have flowed the injectors - OK). The
difficult problem is the intermittent nature. Fuel flow and pressure seems OK
on the gauge (on the ground when the OK runups are done), but to be honest,
when you're at 800' with a badly missing engine, gauges are secondary to getting
on the ground. Boost pump makes no difference when it happens.
Are there screens at the selector? Any other screens in the fuel system?
Engine has 200 hours, built in 1990 and checked again in 1994. The fuel had crap
and water in it when I picked it up, but its been cleaned up. That's the reason
we've suspected fuel contamination and spent a lot of time getting that cleaned
up, but air is something we must check too. I'm not a mechanic, but I wonder
why they didn't check that too (or did they)?
Remember before taking to the air (initially and after each "fix") we've done complete
high power runups and all was fine. The engine ran good in the air on
three occasions for about 15 minutes (taxi, run-up, takeoff, climb, cruise, and
on one occasion - descent and touch and go) before it started the roughness/misfiring/loss
of power. Mag checks are good.
One more item: The time it happened orbiting the field, we got to 2500' before
it started again. I reduced power to 17.5" and it ran fine, but it would take
no more throttle. Orbiting at 17.5" I checked boost pump/magnetos - worked fine.
I did not check FF/pressure as the EI 800 gauges on this plane seem unreliable
(plus I probably forgot in the commotion).
Engine compressions are between 62-72. Attitude seems to make no difference (mine
or the airplanes).
Help?!?
Jeff
904-234-8718
-----Original Message-----
From: darnpilot(at)aol.com
Sent: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 8:29 am
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Glasair III Engine/Fuel Problem
?
?
1) Ron, please give me your contact info.?
?
2) The engine is an IO-540 with Bendix servo.? (Dave, I'll call you.)
?
Thank you.
?
Jeff
904-234-8718
-----Original Message-----
From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 6:54 am
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Glasair III Engine/Fuel Problem
Is your plane still in the Fort Pierce area? ?If it is still there I will be glad
to help you with tools, my time and a second opinion.
Rob Kermanj.
??
On Oct 23, 2007, at 11:34 PM, darnpilot(at)aol.com wrote:
Hello:
I cannot get the Glasair forum to work, so please indulge me if you will.
?
?
I've recently purchased a Glasair III.? I have been having continued problems with
a very rough running engine.?
It will run fine for 15 minutes then start running rough and losing power.?
It has even quit running completely.?
The fuel system has been cleaned (injectors, fuel distributor, gascolator and filter,
and screen filters).? It still has the same problem.?
It will run fine for awhile, then very rough or not at all (on the ground and in
the air).?
There is no obvious problem that we can find as everything previously mentioned
has been double checked again.?
Problem occurs with or without the boost pump on.? The last time the engine would
run at 17" MP but no more.
?
The latest "guess" is the fuel servo.? The only thing that has not been checked
(other than the fuel servo) is the fuel selector valve.?
So far alot of effort (and $$$) have been spent with no solution.?
I hate to spend big $$$ on a now or rebuilt fuel servo and again find the same
problem afterward.? Ideas?? HELP!?
?
My airplane is stuck at a small airfield in the middle of nowhere...please help.
?
BTW, I took the airplane to High Speed Composites in Ft. Pierce, FL to have this
fixed as well as some gear work done.? I will never take my plane back there.
?
Jeff
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail!
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Godfrey <egodfrey(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Primer preparation question |
Listers,
For all of you who have primed your parts with Akzo, how did you
deal the steel parts, such as the nut plates and the WD-415 Trim Cable
Anchor Bracket?
Ed Godfrey
40717
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | Primer preparation question |
Bad Gas?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Godfrey
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 7:46 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Primer preparation question
Listers,
For all of you who have primed your parts with Akzo, how did you
deal the steel parts, such as the nut plates and the WD-415 Trim Cable
Anchor Bracket?
Ed Godfrey
40717
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Primer preparation question |
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
I roughed the WD-415 with medium grit sandpaper then wiped with acetone then a
clean dry cloth before priming. Almost 2 years since completing that section and
still have good adhesion. As for the nutplates I have been using the same old
scotchbrite scuffing method that we are all SOOOOO familiar with. Good results
so far.
Eric Kallio
40518
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=142529#142529
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Glasair III Engine/Fuel Problem |
I had fuel problems on my Glasair III that were caused by a leaking o ring
on the fuel filter canister. It was intermittent, and drove me nuts until I
found it. All Gaskets should be replaced in the filter and housing when
changing the fuel filter. I could solve my problem with the boost pump
though, so I am not sure your problem is the same as mine, but checking the
gaskets is always good.
Gary
40274
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of darnpilot(at)aol.com
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 10:00 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Glasair III Engine/Fuel Problem
Update:
I spoke with the fuel servo overhauler this am. He says the servo does have
some minor issues and "should" be overhauled (big surprise). That said, he
does not believe the problems I've been having were caused by the servo. So
I'm poorer, and effectively back to square one.
I guess I'm going to have to change all the fuel lines, triple check the
fuel venting, and make a sacrifice to the aviation gremlin gods (along with
my dwindling bank account) to be able to get this airplane back home.
Anybody have any other suggestions?
I'm about to give up. Anybody interested in a Glasair III...cheap (FOB
Okeechobee, FL - OBE)?
Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: darnpilot(at)aol.com
Sent: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 9:06 am
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Glasair III Engine/Fuel Problem
The real goofy part about all this is its intermittent. So far we've been
lucky that every time its happened near an airport.
I'll have to check the Glasair manual to see where all the filters are, but
we've checked the servo screen, divider, injectors, gascolator, and replaced
fuel filter. Have not checked fuel selector or if there are any screens
there or at the tanks.
Air is the other part of the equation, and now that its mentioned, I do not
thinks its been checked. I guess the air filter and alternate air are the
only points to check?
Have not check the fuel flow into a bucket (have flowed the injectors - OK).
The difficult problem is the intermittent nature. Fuel flow and pressure
seems OK on the gauge (on the ground when the OK runups are done), but to be
honest, when you're at 800' with a badly missing engine, gauges are
secondary to getting on the ground. Boost pump makes no difference when it
happens.
Are there screens at the selector? Any other screens in the fuel system?
Engine has 200 hours, built in 1990 and checked again in 1994. The fuel had
crap and water in it when I picked it up, but its been cleaned up. That's
the reason we've suspected fuel contamination and spent a lot of time
getting that cleaned up, but air is something we must check too. I'm not a
mechanic, but I wonder why they didn't check that too (or did they)?
Remember before taking to the air (initially and after each "fix") we've
done complete high power runups and all was fine. The engine ran good in the
air on three occasions for about 15 minutes (taxi, run-up, takeoff, climb,
cruise, and on one occasion - descent and touch and go) before it started
the roughness/misfiring/loss of power. Mag checks are good.
One more item: The time it happened orbiting the field, we got to 2500'
before it started again. I reduced power to 17.5" and it ran fine, but it
would take no more throttle. Orbiting at 17.5" I checked boost pump/magnetos
- worked fine. I did not check FF/pressure as the EI 800 gauges on this
plane seem unreliable (plus I probably forgot in the commotion).
Engine compressions are between 62-72. Attitude seems to make no difference
(mine or the airplanes).
Help?!?
Jeff
904-234-8718
-----Original Message-----
From: darnpilot(at)aol.com
Sent: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 8:29 am
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Glasair III Engine/Fuel Problem
1) Ron, please give me your contact info.
2) The engine is an IO-540 with Bendix servo. (Dave, I'll call you.)
Thank you.
Jeff
904-234-8718
-----Original Message-----
From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 6:54 am
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Glasair III Engine/Fuel Problem
Is your plane still in the Fort Pierce area? If it is still there I will be
glad to help you with tools, my time and a second opinion.
Rob Kermanj.
On Oct 23, 2007, at 11:34 PM, darnpilot(at)aol.com wrote:
Hello:
I cannot get the Glasair forum to work, so please indulge me if you will.
I've recently purchased a Glasair III. I have been having continued
problems with a very rough running engine.
It will run fine for 15 minutes then start running rough and losing power.
It has even quit running completely.
The fuel system has been cleaned (injectors, fuel distributor, gascolator
and filter, and screen filters). It still has the same problem.
It will run fine for awhile, then very rough or not at all (on the ground
and in the air).
There is no obvious problem that we can find as everything previously
mentioned has been double checked again.
Problem occurs with or without the boost pump on. The last time the engine
would run at 17" MP but no more.
The latest "guess" is the fuel servo. The only thing that has not been
checked (other than the fuel servo) is the fuel selector valve.
So far alot of effort (and $$$) have been spent with no solution.
I hate to spend big $$$ on a now or rebuilt fuel servo and again find the
same problem afterward. Ideas? HELP!
My airplane is stuck at a small airfield in the middle of nowhere...please
help.
BTW, I took the airplane to High Speed Composites in Ft. Pierce, FL to have
this fixed as well as some gear work done. I will never take my plane back
there.
Jeff
_____
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail
<http://o.aolcdn.com/cdn.webmail.aol.com/mailtour/aol/en-us/index.htm?ncid=A
OLAOF00020000000970> !
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com
">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kent Ogden" <OgdenK(at)upstate.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Primer preparation question/ WD415 Trim Cable Anchor Bracket |
Ed,
I am using Akzo, but haven't gotten to any of the non powder-coated steel
parts yet. I was looking at the trim cable anchor bracket the other day
(I'm not too far from that point) and thinking about that though. I think I
will just clean the parts really well, then use a q-tip or something to put
a thin layer of grease just in the threads so that the primer doesn't stick
there. Seems like there should be a better way though. I also thought
about putting a sacrificial bolt or piece of threaded rods in to keep the
threads clean. Might be hard to get out if you need to back primed threads
through the part.
I was also looking at the trim cable anchor bracket and wondering about its
durability. This part looks like something I could have made in shop class,
and doesn't give a feeling that it is very robust like other parts on the
plane. Is anyone aware of a 3rd party vendor replacement for this piece? I
thought I remember something like this from a while ago but maybe it's just
my poor memory at work.
Kent Ogden
40710
>>> Ed Godfrey 10/29/07 10:46 AM >>>
Listers,
For all of you who have primed your parts with Akzo, how did you
deal the steel parts, such as the nut plates and the WD-415 Trim Cable
Anchor Bracket?
Ed Godfrey
40717
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
After several un-productive phone calls with Aircraft Spruce, I am back at square
one with lock sets. I am trying to piece together the ignition switch, baggage
door lock, and 2 cabin door locks, all keyed the same. Aircraft Spruce says
that I have to buy 2 of their ignition/lock sets and then pay a special order
fee to have them keyed alike. The total comes to almost $300. While a drop in
the bucket in the grand scheme of things, there has to be a better way. Does
anyone out there know of another source to get such a package of lock sets?
Eric Kallio
40518
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=142547#142547
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | baggage area tie downs |
Anyone placed anchor points in the baggage area to secure the tool box,
suitcases, etc? photos?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Primer preparation question/ WD415 Trim Cable AnchorBracket |
I'm 40720 so pretty much right with you as far as parts received. I
received a pretty good piece that I think is quite fine, the older piece
was a welded weakly issue.
As far as options, (assuming you have three months to wait)
http://www.rivethead-aero.com/rv10_005.htm
I ended up priming the whole piece, there has been no issue with placing
the cable and it holding fine.
Pascal
Wings
40720
----- Original Message -----
From: Kent Ogden
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 9:58 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Primer preparation question/ WD415 Trim Cable
AnchorBracket
Ed,
I am using Akzo, but haven't gotten to any of the non powder-coated
steel parts yet. I was looking at the trim cable anchor bracket the
other day (I'm not too far from that point) and thinking about that
though. I think I will just clean the parts really well, then use a
q-tip or something to put a thin layer of grease just in the threads so
that the primer doesn't stick there. Seems like there should be a
better way though. I also thought about putting a sacrificial bolt or
piece of threaded rods in to keep the threads clean. Might be hard to
get out if you need to back primed threads through the part.
I was also looking at the trim cable anchor bracket and wondering
about its durability. This part looks like something I could have made
in shop class, and doesn't give a feeling that it is very robust like
other parts on the plane. Is anyone aware of a 3rd party vendor
replacement for this piece? I thought I remember something like this
from a while ago but maybe it's just my poor memory at work.
Kent Ogden
40710
>>> Ed Godfrey 10/29/07 10:46 AM >>>
Listers,
For all of you who have primed your parts with Akzo, how did you
deal the steel parts, such as the nut plates and the WD-415 Trim Cable
Anchor Bracket?
Ed Godfrey
40717
~=B2=03
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | baggage area tie downs |
I bought the tie down points from Vans, but have not installed them. So..I
would also like to hear from anyone who has used them and where they placed
them.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
40322
801-721-6080
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 12:08 PM
Subject: RV10-List: baggage area tie downs
Anyone placed anchor points in the baggage area to secure the tool box,
suitcases, etc? photos?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
I found the same locks that are included with the "kit" at a local Home
Depot/Lowes. I was able to take them to a lock smith and have them
rekeyed to match the others.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric_Kallio
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 1:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Lock sets
After several un-productive phone calls with Aircraft Spruce, I am back
at square one with lock sets. I am trying to piece together the ignition
switch, baggage door lock, and 2 cabin door locks, all keyed the same.
Aircraft Spruce says that I have to buy 2 of their ignition/lock sets
and then pay a special order fee to have them keyed alike. The total
comes to almost $300. While a drop in the bucket in the grand scheme of
things, there has to be a better way. Does anyone out there know of
another source to get such a package of lock sets?
Eric Kallio
40518
October 20, 2007 - October 29, 2007
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-cr