RV10-Archive.digest.vol-du
November 02, 2008 - Present
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fitting Bulkheads to Skin |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
Were you fluting the edges of each tab? Just to bend them slightly away
from the skin?
I'm thinking of fluting and then using some epoxy and flox to fill the
gap during assembly.
Thanks for the advice.
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: tsts4 [mailto:tsts4(at)verizon.net]
Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2008 10:13 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Fitting Bulkheads to Skin
I completed my tailcone riveting in Aug and fluting does help. I also
used a rubber grommet while riveting to allow me to push the tab and the
skin together and it came out great. If you decide to shim, recommend
going the liquid shim route--you can use epoxy and flox quite easily to
make the shim.
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=211765#211765
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gretz Pitot Connection |
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
We flared the copper and used a AN816-4D (1/4" Tube to 1/8-27 NPT). We then used
the fitting supplied with our Safe-Air kit to attached the nylon tubing.
--------
RV-10 Quick Build
4 Partner Build - Finishing
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=211826#211826
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Advanced SV - was Flying with AFS EFIS - mid west.... |
In a message dated 10/31/2008 5:11:22 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
cj(at)popstudios.com writes:
I've heard the little hints about your synthetic vision and was wondering i
f
you'd be willing to share any details? Specifically whether it will be
available for the 3400 and 3500 when it comes? C'mon, I know you're just
itching to talk about it!!! Give us a little taste!
We will have an upgrade for the 3400 and 3500, it will be a new processor
board that will run the Advanced SV. We are on track to have the upgrades
and Advanced SV before Sun-n-Fun. The few people that have seen it have b
een
very impressed with how good it looks; we even already have the runways.
I have tried all of the latest EFIS systems, I even had the opportunity to
fly a new Cirrus G3 Turbo Perspective last week. I was very impressed wit
h
the EFIS=99s in the Perspective; the new Cirrus Jet even took off rig
ht after
us. We know where we need to be with our level of features and our customer
s
will not be disappointed.
Rob Hickman
Advanced Flight Systems
**************Plan your next getaway with AOL Travel. Check out Today's Hot
5 Travel Deals!
ttp://travel.aol.com/discount-travel?ncid=emlcntustrav00000001)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Recommendations prior to riveting seat floor/cargo floor. |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
I'm am at that point of riveting the seat floors. I have the Van's wiring kit
and was going to run a length of plastic conduit with pull strings along each
side. I have also ordered the SafeAir pitot static line kit and was going to
run that.
Any other suggestions before riveting the floors?
Thanks in advance.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=211854#211854
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Recommendations prior to riveting seat floor/cargo floor. |
Some have put in sound proofing to the bottom of the skins prior to
riveting.
Deems
woxofswa wrote:
>
> I'm am at that point of riveting the seat floors. I have the Van's wiring kit
and was going to run a length of plastic conduit with pull strings along each
side. I have also ordered the SafeAir pitot static line kit and was going to
run that.
>
> Any other suggestions before riveting the floors?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=211854#211854
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Recommendations prior to riveting seat floor/cargo floor. |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
Thanks Deems,
Yes, I did that already. I went with the QuietRide kit.
I just perused yours and Tim's sites on that section. I couldn't help but notice
that you both did the same antenna and in the same place.
Could you expound upon the reasoning for your choice of antenna and location?
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=211873#211873
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Johnston <cj(at)popstudios.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Advanced SV - was Flying with AFS EFIS - mid west.... |
That's exactly the info I was looking for. I have the 3400 and I
didn't want to get left out of the fun! can't wait.
cj
On Nov 2, 2008, at 1:52 PM, RobHickman(at)aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 10/31/2008 5:11:22 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
> cj(at)popstudios.com writes:
> I've heard the little hints about your synthetic vision and was
> wondering if you'd be willing to share any details? Specifically
> whether it will be available for the 3400 and 3500 when it comes?
> C'mon, I know you're just itching to talk about it!!! Give us a
> little taste!
> We will have an upgrade for the 3400 and 3500, it will be a new
> processor board that will run the Advanced SV. We are on track to
> have the upgrades and Advanced SV before Sun-n-Fun. The few
> people that have seen it have been very impressed with how good it
> looks; we even already have the runways.
>
> I have tried all of the latest EFIS systems, I even had the
> opportunity to fly a new Cirrus G3 Turbo Perspective last week. I
> was very impressed with the EFIS=92s in the Perspective; the new
> Cirrus Jet even took off right after us. We know where we need to
> be with our level of features and our customers will not be
> disappointed.
>
> Rob Hickman
> Advanced Flight Systems
>
>
> Plan your next getaway witx1200771803/aol?redir=http://
> travel.aol.com/discount-travel?ncid=emlcntustrav00000001">Check out
> Today's Hot 5 Travel Deals!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Recommendations prior to riveting seat floor/cargo |
floor.
My logic/reasoning was straight forward -------- I copied what Tim did
! :-D
Deems
woxofswa wrote:
>
> Thanks Deems,
>
> Yes, I did that already. I went with the QuietRide kit.
>
> I just perused yours and Tim's sites on that section. I couldn't help but notice
that you both did the same antenna and in the same place.
>
> Could you expound upon the reasoning for your choice of antenna and location?
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=211873#211873
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Advanced SV - was Flying with AFS EFIS - mid west.... |
| From: | "Jim" <jim(at)CombsFive.Com> |
Rob,
Is the plan:
(1) Swap out entire 3400 / 3500 unit
(Receive a different serial numbered system)
(2) Remove unit from
airplane and send to you for upgrade (we keep same serial number unit but
have some down time)
(3) You send new CPU board to us and we do the
swap (Not likely)?
(4) something I have not listed?
As a
3500 owner, I am very curious. I won't ask about pricing. That can
wait till you are ready. So far, I am a very pleased customer.
Jim C (40192, N312F)
Finally got the weight an balance
stuff straightened out (added 25 lbs at the horizontal Stab spar in the
tail cone and reweighed with two sets of scales). Verified ALL the
numbers and finally got the CG where I wanted it (and where it should
be). Will adjust rear ballast weight as the airplane gets painted
and interior is installed (sometime next year).
>
> In a message dated 10/31/2008 5:11:22 P.M. Pacific Standard
Time,
> cj(at)popstudios.com writes:
>
> I've heard
the little hints about your synthetic vision and was wondering
>
if
> you'd be willing to share any details? Specifically whether
it will be
> available for the 3400 and 3500 when it comes?
C'mon, I know you're
> just
> itching to talk about it!!!
Give us a little taste!
>
>
>
> We
will have an upgrade for the 3400 and 3500, it will be a new
>
processor
> board that will run the Advanced SV. We are on track
to have the upgrades
> and Advanced SV before Sun-n-Fun. The few
people that have seen it have
> been
> very impressed
with how good it looks; we even already have the runways.
> I
have tried all of the latest EFIS systems, I even had the opportunity
> to
> fly a new Cirrus G3 Turbo Perspective last week. I
was very impressed
> with
> the EFIS€™s
in the Perspective; the new Cirrus Jet even took off right
>
after
> us. We know where we need to be with our level of features
and our
> customers
> will not be disappointed.
>
> Rob Hickman
> Advanced Flight Systems
>
>
> **************Plan your next getaway with AOL Travel.
Check out Today's
> Hot
> 5 Travel Deals!
>
ttp://travel.aol.com/discount-travel?ncid=emlcntustrav00000001)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Recommendations prior to riveting seat floor/cargo floor. |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
>>I copied what Tim did
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=211893#211893
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Recommendations prior to riveting seat floor/cargo floor. |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Conduit is good. Remember static lines also. See my prior posts on an inspection
plate for the step
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=211921#211921
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Please Make a Contribution to Support Your Lists... |
Dear Listers,
Just a reminder that November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Please make a Contribution
today to support the continued operation and upgrade of
these great List services!! Pick up a really nice free gift with your qualifying
Contribution too!
The Contribution Site is fast and easy:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Advanced SV - was Flying with AFS EFIS - mid west.... |
In a message dated 11/2/2008 6:36:18 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
jim(at)combsfive.com writes:
Rob,
Is the plan:
(1) Swap out entire 3400 / 3500 unit (Receive a different serial numbered
system)
(2) Remove unit from airplane and send to you for upgrade (we keep same
serial number unit but have some down time)
(3) You send new CPU board to us and we do the swap (Not likely)?
(4) something I have not listed?
You will need to send us the unit and we will replace the main cpu board in
the system.
Rob Hickman
Advanced Flight Systems
N402RH RV-10
**************Plan your next getaway with AOL Travel. Check out Today's Hot
5 Travel Deals!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Source for high temp red silicone grommets? |
| From: | "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
Red high temp silicone grommet for intercylinder baffle fuel hose...
Referencing the Lyco IO-540 Parts Manual pg 3-9: AN931-12S17 Grommet 3/4 ID x 1-3/8
OD x 3/8 thick.
A bit of research turned up AN931-12S17 is superseded by: MS35489-20X
The part was difficult to find and scarce at a reasonable price. The best of the
bunch was Broadies Aircraft out of Texas (~$18 each):
http://www.broadiesaircraft.com/shop/search.asp?lookup=MS35489-20X
Regards,
Jay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=212095#212095
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fitting Bulkheads to Skin |
| From: | "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
I recall this step well and fluting the tabs helps a lot. However, some of the
rivets still "suck up" the skin into rather unsightly indentations. This was especially
noticeable around the small bulkhead just fwd of the aft deck.
The local tech counselor suggested lightly tapping a beveled 3/4" dowel with a
sand filled mallet against the affected rivet shop heads. The indents popped right
out and the skin is now flush. I didn't shim anything.
Jay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=212097#212097
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fitting Bulkheads to Skin |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
Thought I'd share you the feedback from Vans...
Phil
-----------------------------------------
Phil,
File or hammer down the corners of the flanges so that they don't make
the outward dent in the skin, then shim the flange to make the bulkhead
fit the skin better.
Bruce
-----------------------------------------
-----Original Message-----
From: jayb [mailto:jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com]
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 11:34 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Fitting Bulkheads to Skin
I recall this step well and fluting the tabs helps a lot. However, some
of the rivets still "suck up" the skin into rather unsightly
indentations. This was especially noticeable around the small bulkhead
just fwd of the aft deck.
The local tech counselor suggested lightly tapping a beveled 3/4" dowel
with a sand filled mallet against the affected rivet shop heads. The
indents popped right out and the skin is now flush. I didn't shim
anything.
Jay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=212097#212097
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV10 Axle Extensions |
All whom ordered a set of axle extensions.... they are on the way.- There
are a few sets left if anyone else is interested.
Don McDonald
--- On Sat, 10/18/08, Lenny Iszak wrote:
From: Lenny Iszak <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV10 Axle Extensions
Date: Saturday, October 18, 2008, 10:04 PM
Don,
Sign me up for a set!
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 9329#209329
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-10 Paint Scheme Opinion Pole |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
It's time for me to finalize my paint scheme and so true to form last
minute I came up with a number of alternate designs.
Keep in mind this plane has the James cowl. If interested please review
the designs and email me off list with your favorite design # and any
comments you may have.
http://www.painttheweb.com/rv-10/paint.htm
Thanks,
Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
I started fitting my wingtips and found the right one to be about 1/4
inch short on the trailing edge in relation to the aileron. Vans says
just build up the edge and finish. Anyone have this problem and what is
the easiest way to lengthen the edge?
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | List Fund Raiser |
A couple of years ago I implemented an automatic "squelch button" of sorts for
the Fund Raiser messages. Here's how it works... As soon as a List member makes
a
Contribution through the Matronics Fund Raiser web site, he or she will instantly
cease to receive these Fund Raiser messages for the rest of the month! Its
just that simple. Don't you wish PBS worked that way! :-)
I really do appreciate each and every one of your individual Contributions to support
the Lists. It is your support that enables me to upgrade the hardware
and
software that are required to run a List Site like this. It also goes to pay for
the commercial-grade Internet connection and to pay the huge electric bill
to
keep the computer gear running and the air conditioner powered on. I run all of
the Matronics Email List and Forums sites here locally which allows me to
control and monitor every aspect of the system for the utmost in reliably and performance.
Your personal Contribution matters because, when combined with other Listers such
as yourself, it pays the bills to keep this site up and running. I accept
exactly ZERO advertising dollars for the Matronics Lists sites. I can't stand
the pop-up ads and all other commercials that are so prevalent on the Internet
these days and I particularly don't want to have it on my Email List sites.
If you appreciate the ad-free, grass-roots, down-home feel of the Matronics Email
Lists, please make a Contribution to keep it that way!!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
[Note that there are certain circumstances where you might still see a Contribution
related message. For example, if someone replies to one of the messages,
when using the List Browse feature, or when accessing List message via the Forum.
The system keys on the given email address and since most of these are
anonymous public access methods, there is no simple way to filter them.]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
Lay up a 2 ply flat layup on your table with release agent. Cut a piece of
this and slip it between the top and bottom trailing edges and adjust to the
length you need and glue it in with cabosil mix. Let harden and then fill
the top and bottom with chopped fiber mix to make it flush with the rest of
the top and bottom. Finish as usual.
Gary Specketer
40274 Flying
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2008 12:32 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Wing tip
I started fitting my wingtips and found the right one to be about 1/4 inch
short on the trailing edge in relation to the aileron. Vans says just build
up the edge and finish. Anyone have this problem and what is the easiest
way to lengthen the edge?
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Paint Scheme Opinion Pole |
I think the designs look great, I posted this to the whole list only to get
feed back on what everyone thinks about dark color on the composites? Ther
e was some talk about the heat affecting certain brands of filler (micro).
My plan is pretty basic and focuses on overall white with=C2-modest trim
colors similar to what Cirrus does with their fleet.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 4, 2008 9:05:23 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Paint Scheme Opinion Pole
It=99s time for me to finalize my paint scheme and so true to form la
st minute I came up with a number of alternate designs.
Keep in mind this plane has the James cowl. If interested please review the
designs and email me off list with your favorite design # and any comments
you may have.
http://www.painttheweb.com/rv-10/paint.htm
Thanks,
Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-10 Paint Scheme Opinion Pole |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
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PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09
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PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09DQo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "SteinAir, Inc." <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | RV-10 Paint Scheme Opinion Pole |
Hi Robin,
I like #1 or #5....here's why - I like to see paint lines flow in the same
direction and give the airplane nice long curves! Personally, I'm not a big
fan of the forward sweep triangle thingy on the tail, because it doesn't
match any other curves on the plane anywhere and just sort of leaves you
thinking...hmmm...."what's with the tail"?
Anyway, that's just my personal opinion and worth exactly what you paid for
it!
Cheers,
Stein
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2008 11:05 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Paint Scheme Opinion Pole
Its time for me to finalize my paint scheme and so true to form last
minute I came up with a number of alternate designs.
Keep in mind this plane has the James cowl. If interested please review
the designs and email me off list with your favorite design # and any
comments you may have.
http://www.painttheweb.com/rv-10/paint.htm
Thanks,
Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Paint Scheme Opinion Pole |
Hi Robin. =0AAll are nice but I like #3 the best. =0ATo make your life a
little easier you may not want to have the steep angles that cut through th
e rudder. It is difficult to make those stay consistent as the rudder turn
s. =0AEspecially the one that cuts through the top right corner of the ver
tical stabilizer. =0AYou can make them all work though. =0A=0AVery cool.
This is the fun stage. =0A=0A Scott Schmidt=0Ascottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com=0A
=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Robin Marks <robin1
(at)mrmoisture.com>=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Tuesday, November 4,
2008 10:05:23 PM=0ASubject: RV10-List: RV-10 Paint Scheme Opinion Pole=0A
=0A =0AIt=A2s time for me to=0Afinalize my paint scheme and so true to form
last minute I came up with a=0Anumber of alternate designs. =0AKeep in min
d this plane has the=0AJames cowl. If interested please review the designs
and email me off list with=0Ayour favorite design # and any comments you ma
y have.=0Ahttp://www.painttheweb.com/rv-10/paint.htm=0A =0AThanks,=0ARobin@
=========0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-10 Paint Scheme Opinion Pole |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Thanks Stein. #1 is my favorite but so many people tell me to keep color
off the top of the canopy & engine? Don't really know why as Cirrus does
it.
The ones with the funny tail were last minute designs that I decided to
do something to the tail but it does not follow the theme. I would end
up changing the tail if I went with lower paint.
Again I like #1 too just trying to convince myself.
Thanks again,
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of SteinAir,
Inc.
Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2008 7:34 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV-10 Paint Scheme Opinion Pole
Hi Robin,
I like #1 or #5....here's why - I like to see paint lines flow in the
same direction and give the airplane nice long curves! Personally, I'm
not a big fan of the forward sweep triangle thingy on the tail, because
it doesn't match any other curves on the plane anywhere and just sort of
leaves you thinking...hmmm...."what's with the tail"?
Anyway, that's just my personal opinion and worth exactly what you paid
for it!
Cheers,
Stein
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2008 11:05 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Paint Scheme Opinion Pole
It's time for me to finalize my paint scheme and so true to form
last minute I came up with a number of alternate designs.
Keep in mind this plane has the James cowl. If interested please
review the designs and email me off list with your favorite design # and
any comments you may have.
http://www.painttheweb.com/rv-10/paint.htm
Thanks,
Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
h
ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics
.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | RV-10 Paint Scheme Opinion Pole |
Who wants to look like a Cirrus with an RV10? Still prefer the RV10 pai
nt scheme Deems Davis (Father of the most popular RV10 Scheme) created.
:) DEAN
_____________________________________________________________
Are you safe? Click for quotes on a home security system.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2111/fc/Ioyw6iif8bYcqn03E4JdaYIFm2UN
Oek5efsR6p5tvzEPbe07476iM8/?count=1234567890
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Belue" <kdbelue(at)charter.net> |
My right wing tip was 1/4" short and I fixed it the same way as Gary
said below.
Kevin Belue
RV-6A Flying
RV-10 Flying
----- Original Message -----
From: gary
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2008 6:51 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Wing tip
Lay up a 2 ply flat layup on your table with release agent. Cut a
piece of this and slip it between the top and bottom trailing edges and
adjust to the length you need and glue it in with cabosil mix. Let
harden and then fill the top and bottom with chopped fiber mix to make
it flush with the rest of the top and bottom. Finish as usual.
Gary Specketer
40274 Flying
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2008 12:32 AM
To: RV-10 matronics
Subject: RV10-List: Wing tip
I started fitting my wingtips and found the right one to be about 1/4
inch short on the trailing edge in relation to the aileron. Vans says
just build up the edge and finish. Anyone have this problem and what is
the easiest way to lengthen the edge?
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-10 Paint Scheme Opinion Pole |
| From: | "Douglas, Brian S" <brian-douglas(at)uiowa.edu> |
I prefer #2 or #3. In addition to not having the extra heat absorption
from a dark color on top, I think a dark color on the bottom helps to
hide the inevitable belly grime. I had an all-white Warrior and man I
spent a lot of time degreasing the underside of that plane.
Just my $.02
-Brian
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2008 11:05 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Paint Scheme Opinion Pole
It's time for me to finalize my paint scheme and so true to form last
minute I came up with a number of alternate designs.
Keep in mind this plane has the James cowl. If interested please review
the designs and email me off list with your favorite design # and any
comments you may have.
http://www.painttheweb.com/rv-10/paint.htm
Thanks,
Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
I had been thinking of equipping my 10 with one Pmag when available, I have
, however, decided to let someone else be on the bleeding edge. This morning
a Glastar taxied out from Phoenix Composites only to return trailed by the
equipment. The engine quit twice in one pattern. The purpose of the flight
was a series of avionics test but the failure occurred with the Emag.
Further.discussion suggests that they have been experiencing and attempting
to correct this problem for several months. I spoke with the Emag rep at OSH
and he indicated that the IO540 version of the Emag Pmag is being tested by
some 10 owner. Any experiences from that owner would be welcome.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Due to the technicality of missing FAA reference materials that were
germane to the 51% discussion, the comment period is being extended
again. Thanks to those 300+ soles who took the time to indicate the
areas of discussion they found important.
This gives a few months reprieve before the policy is forever modified.
No word was offtered on whether the RV-12 will get consideration but the
RV-10 should remain grandfathered with a need to document any Pro Build
Assist that does not encroach on 51% owner built.
.
See Docket FAA-2008-1181 at
http://www.regulations.gov/fdmspublic/component/main?main=DocumentDetai
l
&o=0900006480787694. Federal register # E8-26021 of one page.
Your opinion is valued. This policy might just get another delay into
2009 and the 111th Congress, till the next prez picks his new
Administrator of the FAA.
John Cox
#600
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Can you show me how to hammer that message home into the comments
docket with my rivet gun? Do I need a gauge to be certain the shop
head is well formed? Punctuate with my dimple dies? ;-)
On Thu, Nov 6, 2008 at 6:59 PM, John Cox wrote:
> Due to the technicality of missing FAA reference materials that were germane
> to the 51% discussion, the comment period is being extended again. Thanks to
> those 300+ soles who took the time to indicate the areas of discussion they
> found important.
>
> This gives a few months reprieve before the policy is forever modified. No
> word was offtered on whether the RV-12 will get consideration but the RV-10
> should remain grandfathered with a need to document any Pro Build Assist
> that does not encroach on 51% owner built.
>
> .
>
> See Docket FAA-2008-1181 at
> http://www.regulations.gov/fdmspublic/component/main?main=DocumentDetail&o00006480787694.
> Federal register # E8-26021 of one page.
>
> Your opinion is valued. This policy might just get another delay into 2009
> and the 111th Congress, till the next prez picks his new Administrator of
> the FAA.
>
> John Cox
>
> #600
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Weight and Balance Questions |
| From: | "dmaib(at)mac.com" <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
We weighed the airplane today and I appear to be the proud owner of the "fattest"
RV-10 in the fleet. 1769 lbs. No surprise since we have the Flightline AC air
conditioner and the SafeAir1 extended range tip tanks. Empty CG came in at
109.38.
This weight and balance was with full interior, wheel pants and fairings, and no
paint.
About how much will paint add to this weight?
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=212794#212794
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Weight and Balance Questions |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Excuse me, was that Phatist?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of dmaib(at)mac.com
Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2008 8:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Weight and Balance Questions
We weighed the airplane today and I appear to be the proud owner of the
"fattest" RV-10 in the fleet. 1769 lbs. No surprise since we have the
Flightline AC air conditioner and the SafeAir1 extended range tip tanks.
Empty CG came in at 109.38.
This weight and balance was with full interior, wheel pants and
fairings, and no paint.
About how much will paint add to this weight?
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=212794#212794
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Weight and Balance Questions |
| From: | "dmaib(at)mac.com" <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
John Cox wrote:
> For tonight and just tonight, the winner is currently 1769 and may your
> luxurious Flying Lexus, serve you well.
We will bask in our 15 minutes of fame [Laughing]
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=212799#212799
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cutting & buffing |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
Ok, John Cox prompted the question when talking of Deems' spectacular
paint job.
How do you cut and buff without exposing rivet heads?? Most aircraft I
have seen that have come out of a paint shop after some rework have too
much paint removed over the rivet heads, leaving many nicely polished
but unpainted..
In my paint job, I have a number of rivets where the paint has not
flowed into the rivet countersink properly and look like they have
'black rings' around the rivet head. Not many, but very obvious in the
White paint. What causes this and how to fix? There has really been
precious little discussion in this forum about painting techniques and
problems. Tim's site (as always) is a starting point, but what other
sources of info are there??
Cheers,
Ron
187, almost done painting
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cutting & buffing |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
1500 to 2000 grit "wet" and dry. A discerning eye, a light loving
touch, years of experience and the desire not to reshoot the work.
After knocking about 50% to 75% of the natural clearcoat orange peel off
, you read the white foam that floats off with the constant water rinse.
Then, you buff it using no less than three different cuts of Mequire's
compounds. One of our RV-10 dinners will feature the Mequires rep
showing exactly that process. They leave Free samples.
The real secret is to lay enough clearcoat to sacrifice over the color
topcoat. Oh, did I mention that clearcoat adds weight, increases gloss,
protects the topcoat too.
I have had a lot better result with a poly foam pad rather than the
lambs wool of my youth. My hotrod days are long gone and I have had my
share of zealous over-buffing. I now know when to put down the tool and
resort to elbow grease and Karate Kid moves. Compound ON/ Compound Off.
John
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2008 9:32 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Cutting & buffing
Ok, John Cox prompted the question when talking of Deems' spectacular
paint job.
How do you cut and buff without exposing rivet heads?? Most aircraft I
have seen that have come out of a paint shop after some rework have too
much paint removed over the rivet heads, leaving many nicely polished
but unpainted..
In my paint job, I have a number of rivets where the paint has not
flowed into the rivet countersink properly and look like they have
'black rings' around the rivet head. Not many, but very obvious in the
White paint. What causes this and how to fix? There has really been
precious little discussion in this forum about painting techniques and
problems. Tim's site (as always) is a starting point, but what other
sources of info are there??
Cheers,
Ron
187, almost done painting
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cutting & buffing |
| From: | ricksked(at)embarqmail.com |
R28gdG8gc2xlZXAgSm9obiEhISEgIFdURiB3YXMgdGhhdD8/PyAgIDspDQoNClJpY2sgUyANCjQw
MTg1DQpEbyBub3QgYXJjaGl2ZQ0KU2VudCB2aWEgQmxhY2tCZXJyeSBieSBBVCZUDQoNCi0tLS0t
T3JpZ2luYWwgTWVzc2FnZS0tLS0tDQpGcm9tOiAiSm9obiBDb3giIDxqb2hud2NveEBwYWNpZmlj
bncuY29tPg0KDQpEYXRlOiBUaHUsIDYgTm92IDIwMDggMjI6MDE6MzggDQpUbzogPHJ2MTAtbGlz
dEBtYXRyb25pY3MuY29tPg0KU3ViamVjdDogUkU6IFJWMTAtTGlzdDogQ3V0dGluZyAmIGJ1ZmZp
bmcNCg0KDQpUaGlzIGlzIGEgbXVsdGktcGFydCBtZXNzYWdlIGluIE1JTUUgZm9ybWF0Lg0KDQo
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cutting & buffing |
| From: | ricksked(at)embarqmail.com |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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cutting & buffing |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
Thanks John - great feedback.
I am not using a clear coat - just a base of solid white, so no clear to pr
otect from over zealous buffing.
I have used 2000 grit wet on a DA sander followed up by Meguiars M105 Ultra
Cut - truly amazing stuff. Works brilliantly on the composites, but a lit
tle too aggressive on the rivet heads.
cheers,
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of John Cox
Sent: Fri 11/7/2008 4:31 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cutting & buffing
1500 to 2000 grit "wet" and dry. A discerning eye, a light loving
touch, years of experience and the desire not to reshoot the work.
After knocking about 50% to 75% of the natural clearcoat orange peel off
, you read the white foam that floats off with the constant water rinse.
Then, you buff it using no less than three different cuts of Mequire's
compounds. One of our RV-10 dinners will feature the Mequires rep
showing exactly that process. They leave Free samples.
The real secret is to lay enough clearcoat to sacrifice over the color
topcoat. Oh, did I mention that clearcoat adds weight, increases gloss,
protects the topcoat too.
I have had a lot better result with a poly foam pad rather than the
lambs wool of my youth. My hotrod days are long gone and I have had my
share of zealous over-buffing. I now know when to put down the tool and
resort to elbow grease and Karate Kid moves. Compound ON/ Compound Off.
John
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2008 9:32 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Cutting & buffing
Ok, John Cox prompted the question when talking of Deems' spectacular
paint job.
How do you cut and buff without exposing rivet heads?? Most aircraft I
have seen that have come out of a paint shop after some rework have too
much paint removed over the rivet heads, leaving many nicely polished
but unpainted..
In my paint job, I have a number of rivets where the paint has not
flowed into the rivet countersink properly and look like they have
'black rings' around the rivet head. Not many, but very obvious in the
White paint. What causes this and how to fix? There has really been
precious little discussion in this forum about painting techniques and
problems. Tim's site (as always) is a starting point, but what other
sources of info are there??
Cheers,
Ron
187, almost done painting
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Dear Listers,
Just a quick reminder that November is the annual List Fund Raiser. The Matronics
Lists are 100% member supported and all of the operational costs are provided
for my your Contributions during this time of the year.
Your personal Contribution makes a difference and keeps all of the Matronics Email
Lists and Forums completely ad-free.
Please make your Contribution today to keep these services up and running!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you in advance!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "richard sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Weight and Balance Questions |
Paint weight will vary quite a bit depending on the painter and process; my
guess is a minimum of 25 lbs.
(That is what the paint on my 4 weighed) I still need to reweigh mine now
that it has paint and will have a better idea.
Dick Sipp 40065 N110DV
----- Original Message -----
From: <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2008 11:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Weight and Balance Questions
>
> We weighed the airplane today and I appear to be the proud owner of the
> "fattest" RV-10 in the fleet. 1769 lbs. No surprise since we have the
> Flightline AC air conditioner and the SafeAir1 extended range tip tanks.
> Empty CG came in at 109.38.
> This weight and balance was with full interior, wheel pants and fairings,
> and no paint.
> About how much will paint add to this weight?
>
> --------
> David Maib
> RV-10 #40559
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=212794#212794
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Hadath" <whadath(at)rogers.com> |
David
I do not know how much weight the painting of an RV 10 will add but it
will
be alot. I primed my F1 Rocket and weighed it and each coat of primer
was
6-8 lbs. Paint and clear coat will no doubt add as much weight per coat.
An
F1 has a smaller fuselage and only 100 square feet of wing compared to
the
RV 10 with 150 square feet. Paint has its appeal but does not come
without
penalty. A real show quality paint job has a large weight penalty. My
guess,
car quality, 60 plus pounds. The fellows who have done it and know,
don=92t
like to share too often.
Wayne Hadath
F1 Rocket (300+ hours)
RV10 (engine hung)
Checked by AVG.
06/11/2008
7:58 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Cutting & buffing |
Just a reminder; if you don't want to see rivet heads in your cowl where
there are hinges, cover them with a glass tape after riveting. If not the
rivet heads will work through the paint after about a hundred hours or
so.How do I know? missed four rivets around the oil door on my Glastar. Did
not miss any on the cowl or the top on the 10.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2008 10:32 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Cutting & buffing
Ok, John Cox prompted the question when talking of Deems' spectacular paint
job.
How do you cut and buff without exposing rivet heads?? Most aircraft I have
seen that have come out of a paint shop after some rework have too much
paint removed over the rivet heads, leaving many nicely polished but
unpainted..
In my paint job, I have a number of rivets where the paint has not flowed
into the rivet countersink properly and look like they have 'black rings'
around the rivet head. Not many, but very obvious in the White paint. What
causes this and how to fix? There has really been precious little
discussion in this forum about painting techniques and problems. Tim's site
(as always) is a starting point, but what other sources of info are there??
Cheers,
Ron
187, almost done painting
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cutting & buffing |
Cutting & buffingAnother approach: don't use clearcoat and don't cut n
buff. Take the time in shooting to flow the paint correctly to get that
virgin wet look. Then you'll never have to worry about rivet heads, no
unsightly buffing compound in the cracks and around the rivets that can
never be removed, lighter weight without the clearcoat, and easier to
blend in should repairs ever be needed. Of course a cut-n-buff job on an
RV-10 must take forever those things are so huge.
I've painted three RVs this way and all came out good and get frequent
compliments. I had to do a repair on a section of the lower cowl on my
RV-8 and was able to blend it in so that it literally could not be seen
(spray pure reducer over the repaired area right after you shoot the
paint).
Info here...
http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Paint/paint.html
http://www.romeolima.com/RV8/Paint.htm
Personally, I don't think you can ever get a cut-n-buff surface to look
quite as glossy as the wet look of properly flowed paint.
FWIW,
Randy Lervold
----- Original Message -----
From: John Cox
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2008 10:01 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cutting & buffing
1500 to 2000 grit "wet" and dry. A discerning eye, a light loving
touch, years of experience and the desire not to reshoot the work.
After knocking about 50% to 75% of the natural clearcoat orange peel off
, you read the white foam that floats off with the constant water rinse.
Then, you buff it using no less than three different cuts of Mequire's
compounds. One of our RV-10 dinners will feature the Mequires rep
showing exactly that process. They leave Free samples.
The real secret is to lay enough clearcoat to sacrifice over the
color topcoat. Oh, did I mention that clearcoat adds weight, increases
gloss, protects the topcoat too.
I have had a lot better result with a poly foam pad rather than the
lambs wool of my youth. My hotrod days are long gone and I have had my
share of zealous over-buffing. I now know when to put down the tool and
resort to elbow grease and Karate Kid moves. Compound ON/ Compound Off.
John
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2008 9:32 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Cutting & buffing
Ok, John Cox prompted the question when talking of Deems' spectacular
paint job.
How do you cut and buff without exposing rivet heads?? Most aircraft
I have seen that have come out of a paint shop after some rework have
too much paint removed over the rivet heads, leaving many nicely
polished but unpainted..
In my paint job, I have a number of rivets where the paint has not
flowed into the rivet countersink properly and look like they have
'black rings' around the rivet head. Not many, but very obvious in the
White paint. What causes this and how to fix? There has really been
precious little discussion in this forum about painting techniques and
problems. Tim's site (as always) is a starting point, but what other
sources of info are there??
Cheers,
Ron
187, almost done painting
"Warning:The information contained in this email and any attached files
isconfidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the
intendedrecipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or
anyattachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this
emailin error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has
beentaken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus
free,however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not
thesender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure
viruschecks are completed before installing any data sent in this email
toyour computer."
http://www.matronics.com/contributionhttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?R
V10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Selector Mounting and Scat Problem |
| From: | "partner14" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
For those of you working on the fuel lines in the tunnel, you may want to hold
off for a couple of days. I have come up with the best solution to the several
problems associated with the fuel valve and scat tubing. I will provide pictures
early this next week. Pascal Reid and Dennis Mangan have already seen it
and were very impressed. Honestly, it's so nice, I hate to share it.
Don McDonald
#40636
4 steps forward, 2 steps back...... again
--------
Don A. McDonald
40636
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=213138#213138
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Vandalism of my 10 |
As some of you know I have my 10 painted in Georgia Bulldog colors. This
past weekend we flew it from Atlanta to Lexington KY for the game. As bad
luck would have it the FBO tried to tug it to a new parking space and busted
the front half of the nose wheel pant. As luck would have it Jim Combs
lives there and generously let me have his. It was unpainted and we were
able to put it on mine to fly home. However sometime during the game some
KY minded fans (Jim and his pals) seem to have changed the colors to reflect
their loyalty. It just aint right.
Thanks Jim for your help and the wheel pant parts.
Gary Specketer
40274 Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | QB Wing Angst- Oil Cannnig |
Hi
After carefully researching how to rivet the bottom skins on my QB wings, I
have run into the dreaded oil canning on one of the wings.
I did dress the forward skin edge as many have recommended and I also found
that there was no oil canning problem when the skins were clecoed. However,
after riveting one skin using a rivet pattern found on the list, I found
that I have a significant oil canning issue developed in one of the
"squares" on one wing. The other wing is fine - I came up with a different
rivet pattern which yielded much better results.
So now I have this problem, is there any acceptable way to deal with it.
Then "square" in question deforms inward and stay there unless popped out. I
was thinking of riveting a small stiffner through the center of the "square"
but am unsure if this is acceptable.
Any comments, suggestions, guidance gratefully appreciated.
Inquiring minds need to know
Les Kearney
#40643 - some assembly required
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: QB Wing Angst- Oil Cannnig |
| From: | "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net> |
Les,
I went through the same thing. I ended up using proseal to attach a 6" piece
of aluminum angle to the inside of the square that was oilcanning.
Can't speak for final result as the plane hasn't flown yet but ground test (me
pushing on panel) showed any canning was completely gone.
Tom Hanaway
Boynton Beach, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=213193#213193
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: QB Wing Angst- Oil Canning |
Tom
Thanks for the comments.
I have thought about proseal as well. My only concern is I don't know how
well the proseal will attach to my primer. I wouldn't want the angle to
depart the skin and mess up the controls etc. My inclination would be to
rivet the stiffner. With effort I can reach the square and use a pop rivet
dimpler. Then again perhaps I am just being a bit to anal.
Cheers
Les
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of tomhanaway
Sent: November-09-08 8:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: QB Wing Angst- Oil Cannnig
Les,
I went through the same thing. I ended up using proseal to attach a 6"
piece of aluminum angle to the inside of the square that was oilcanning.
Can't speak for final result as the plane hasn't flown yet but ground test
(me pushing on panel) showed any canning was completely gone.
Tom Hanaway
Boynton Beach, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=213193#213193
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: QB Wing Angst- Oil Canning |
Being too anal is removing all the rivets=2C purchasing a new skin and doin
g it again. That what I did with my left wing.Gave me a lot of scrap alumin
um on hand.John G.> From: kearney(at)shaw.ca> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Sub
ject: RE: RV10-List: Re: QB Wing Angst- Oil Canning> Date: Sun=2C 9 Nov 200
@shaw.ca>> > Tom> > Thanks for the comments.> > I have thought about prosea
l as well. My only concern is I don't know how> well the proseal will attac
h to my primer. I wouldn't want the angle to> depart the skin and mess up t
he controls etc. My inclination would be to> rivet the stiffner. With effor
t I can reach the square and use a pop rivet> dimpler. Then again perhaps I
am just being a bit to anal.> > Cheers> > Les> > > -----Original Message--
---> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-se
rver(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of tomhanaway> Sent: November-09-08 8:03 PM>
et>> > Les=2C> I went through the same thing. I ended up using proseal to
attach a 6"> piece of aluminum angle to the inside of the square that was
oilcanning.> > Can't speak for final result as the plane hasn't flown yet
but ground test> (me pushing on panel) showed any canning was completely go
ne.> > Tom Hanaway> Boynton Beach=2C FL> > > > > Read this topic online her
e:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=213193#213193> > > > >
=======================> > >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Fund Raiser List of Contributors - Please Make A Contribution |
Today!
Each year at the end of the List Fund Raiser, I post a message acknowledging everyone
that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its sort of
my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation
for the Lists.
Won't you take a moment and assure that your name is on that List of Contributors
(LOC)? As a number of members have pointed out over the years, the List seems
at least - if not a whole lot more - valuable as a building/flying/recreating/entertainment
tool as your typical magazine subscription!
Please take minute and assure that your name is on this year's LOC! Show others
that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is
fast and easy using your Credit card or Paypal on the Secure Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551-0347
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps
these Lists going and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about
how the Lists have helped you!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Measuring Amp draw |
I have my amp meter set up as a load meter measuring the output of the
alternator. However, it reads about 40 amps after the battery is recharged.
I don't have 40 amps worth of fuses in my panel so I suspect that the
shunt/EFIS aren't giving me the correct reading. Does anyone have a DC amp
meter that they are willing to let me try to get an accurate reading so that
I can confront the EFIS/engine monitor folks and get a correct correction
factor applied?
Or does someone have a better idea?
Gary Specketer
40274 Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Measuring Amp draw |
| From: | "Jim" <jim(at)CombsFive.Com> |
Gary,
I actually have a high current lab DC power supply that
we could have used to check the shunt. I know we had a busy weekend,
but we could have just connected up the power supply and had a known
calibrated power feed to the airplane (via the alternator lead).
It's pretty heavy, or I would consider shipping it to you to use.
The other choice is to make a second calibrated shunt and put in
series with the alternator lead. That's a lot easier to do.
Jim C
> I have my amp meter set up as a load meter
measuring the output of the
> alternator. However, it reads about
40 amps after the battery is
> recharged.
> I don't have
40 amps worth of fuses in my panel so I suspect that the
>
shunt/EFIS aren't giving me the correct reading. Does anyone have a DC
> amp
> meter that they are willing to let me try to get an
accurate reading so
> that
> I can confront the
EFIS/engine monitor folks and get a correct correction
> factor
applied?
>
>
>
> Or does someone have a
better idea?
>
>
>
> Gary Specketer
>
> 40274 Flying
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Measuring Amp draw |
| From: | "Jim" <jim(at)CombsFive.Com> |
you might also try this:
http://store.solar-electric.com/mka-100-100.html
You have two
alternators, do you have two separate shunts?
Jim C
N312F,
40192
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lbgjb10" <lbgjb(at)gnt.net> |
Have louvers on sides and oil temps in hot summer are great--even in climbs. However,
in cold weather sometimes hard to get above 150 when it's really cold
outside. Any good suggestions for partially blocking--tape?? what will withstand
engine heat and not melt?? Also have larger oil cooler. thanks. larry &
gayle
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=213410#213410
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Measuring Amp draw |
I don't think the shunt is at fault, I think that the calibration in either
the engine monitor or the EFIS is converting it to a wrong number. The
shunt is measured by the engine monitor and that info is fed to the EFIS.
Somewhere in there is the problem IMHO.
Gary
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim
Sent: Monday, November 10, 2008 5:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Measuring Amp draw
Gary,
I actually have a high current lab DC power supply that we could have used
to check the shunt. I know we had a busy weekend, but we could have just
connected up the power supply and had a known calibrated power feed to the
airplane (via the alternator lead).
It's pretty heavy, or I would consider shipping it to you to use.
The other choice is to make a second calibrated shunt and put in series with
the alternator lead. That's a lot easier to do.
Jim C
> I have my amp meter set up as a load meter measuring the output of the
> alternator. However, it reads about 40 amps after the battery is
> recharged.
> I don't have 40 amps worth of fuses in my panel so I suspect that the
> shunt/EFIS aren't giving me the correct reading. Does anyone have a DC
> amp
> meter that they are willing to let me try to get an accurate reading so
> that
> I can confront the EFIS/engine monitor folks and get a correct correction
> factor applied?
>
>
>
> Or does someone have a better idea?
>
>
>
> Gary Specketer
>
> 40274 Flying
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Measuring Amp draw |
Both Alternators feed into a common shunt. Neal George has a clamp on amp
meter, so I will try that first.
Gary
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim
Sent: Monday, November 10, 2008 6:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Measuring Amp draw
you might also try this:
http://store.solar-electric.com/mka-100-100.html
You have two alternators, do you have two separate shunts?
Jim C
N312F, 40192
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
You can do the shutter Van's sells or the butterfly valve that someone else does
(sorry, can't remember who offhand). Both of those give you in flight adjustability
rather than a static setting that tape gives you. Of course that works
too.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of lbgjb10
Sent: Monday, November 10, 2008 6:55 PM
Subject: RV10-List: cool oil
Have louvers on sides and oil temps in hot summer are great--even in climbs. However,
in cold weather sometimes hard to get above 150 when it's really cold
outside. Any good suggestions for partially blocking--tape?? what will withstand
engine heat and not melt?? Also have larger oil cooler. thanks. larry &
gayle
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=213410#213410
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | VP200 Load Planning Worksheet |
Anyone else doing a VP that can share their load planning sheets? Marc, do you
have any others besides the one posted to your site?
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
| Subject: | Aftermarket RV-10 Interior Door Handles |
=0A=0AHi there, I'm trying to track down David Nellis ( davidnellis691@comc
ast.net) who was selling the aftermarket interior door handles for the RV-1
0, however my emails are bouncing and don't seem to be=C2-getting through
.=0A=C2-=0ACould anyone please provide an alternate email for David, or i
f they know David, could they please request him to make contact with me.
=0A=C2-=0AMany thanks in anticipation for your assistance.=0A=C2-=0A=C2
-=0ARegards=0A=C2-=0APATRICK PULIS=C2-=0ARV-10 #40299=C2- VH-XPP=0A
Adelaide, South=C2-Australia =0A=0ATel:=C2-=C2-=C2- (08) 8236 6808
=0AMob:=C2-=C2-=C2- 0418 850 156 =0AFax:=C2-=C2-=C2- (08) 8236
6899 =0AEmail:=C2- patrick.pulis(at)seagas.com.au =0A=0A=0A_________________
_______________=0A=0ASearch 1000's of available singles in your area at the
new Yahoo!7 Dating. Get Started. =0A=0A=0A Find your perfect match to
day at the new Yahoo!7 Dating. Get Started http://au.dating.yahoo.com/?cid
=53151&pid=1012
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Aftermarket RV-10 Interior Door Handles |
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cGF0cmljay5wdWxpc0BzZWFnYXMuY29tLmF1DQo
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | HS Attachment Bar Clearance |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
Hi,
I'm currently fitting the longerons inside the tailcone.
On page 10-6 Step 1, we're asked to remove an area of material for
clearance of the HS attachment bars.
Upon fitting, I'm finding that the HS attachment bars are touching the
longerons.
1) Is this acceptable? I'm guessing not.
2) I've continued to remove material from the longeron and right now I'm
pushing 15/32 of removed material when the plans called for 11/32. In
order to get the HS attachment bars to easily clear, I'm guessing I'll
have to removed another 2 or 3/32. Is that a problem or should I just
start over with a new longeron?
Here are links to the photos.
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r51/philperry9/RV-10%20Build/DSC_3395
.jpg
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r51/philperry9/RV-10%20Build/DSC_3396
.jpg
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r51/philperry9/RV-10%20Build/DSC_3397
.jpg
Thanks,
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Control Stick Grips |
OK, I'm all torn up. The Infinity grips are sexy but I just don't think
I want all that function on the stick. This is a cruiser not a hot
ass. Heck, I'm a cruiser, not a hot ass, at least not any longer...
I looked and played with the Infinity grips at Osh. Nicely designed and
built. Price is ok too. The Ray Allens were kept at arm's length just
because they looked so stogy. But now that I've thought things through,
the G305/G307 is looking like the right tool on the AS catalog page.
I now wish I had looked and played with them at Osh.
Specifically, I don't want my flap switch on the stick - a single panel
mount rocker is where I'm going. I do want a hat switch for my trim on
the stick and of course a PTT. I've never flown with an autopilot so I
don't really know about a autopilot disco switch.
I'm very interested in comparisons of the Infinity and the RA grips -
quality, comfort, RV10 fit. Also thoughts on switch function. Price
just doesn't matter here given the price range.
Bill "panel cutting, instrument mounting, and wire routing" Watson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Control Stick Grips |
I went with the Infinity grips...very happy....
First, my opinion, you must have the autopilot disconnect on the
stick....just my opinion. But when you need it you will need to have your
hand on the stick and when the autopilot goes wacko you need to have your
hand on the stick and throttle and not reaching for another switch....during
testing I had a hard pitch over and was happy to have the switch on the
stick.
On the pilot side I have the following switch config...
Left top, autopilot disconnect
Hat switch, trims (elevator and aileron)
Right top, flap
Trigger, press to talk
Thumb, Freq flip flop on SL30
Pinky, Ident
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver
Sent: Monday, November 10, 2008 8:18 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Control Stick Grips
OK, I'm all torn up. The Infinity grips are sexy but I just don't think
I want all that function on the stick. This is a cruiser not a hot
ass. Heck, I'm a cruiser, not a hot ass, at least not any longer...
I looked and played with the Infinity grips at Osh. Nicely designed and
built. Price is ok too. The Ray Allens were kept at arm's length just
because they looked so stogy. But now that I've thought things through,
the G305/G307 is looking like the right tool on the AS catalog page.
I now wish I had looked and played with them at Osh.
Specifically, I don't want my flap switch on the stick - a single panel
mount rocker is where I'm going. I do want a hat switch for my trim on
the stick and of course a PTT. I've never flown with an autopilot so I
don't really know about a autopilot disco switch.
I'm very interested in comparisons of the Infinity and the RA grips -
quality, comfort, RV10 fit. Also thoughts on switch function. Price
just doesn't matter here given the price range.
Bill "panel cutting, instrument mounting, and wire routing" Watson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Control Stick Grips |
I have the Infinity grip in my 8A, and will put it in the 10.
I find having the flaps on the stick to work well (toggle switch, momentary
down, stays on in the up position). In fact I would not recommend any other
place. The other functions used:
1. PTT
2. Comm frequency flip flop. I use this a lot.
3. Auto pilot disconnect. This is real handy to engage the wing leveler
without needing to divert your eyes or move a hand to the panel. For
straight stick flying I keep the auto pilot in wing leveler mode just for
this reason.
4. Trim hat.
I originally had the starter button on the stick. I found this problematic
and have since move the starter button to a side panel.
Carl Froehlich
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver
Sent: Monday, November 10, 2008 10:18 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Control Stick Grips
OK, I'm all torn up. The Infinity grips are sexy but I just don't think
I want all that function on the stick. This is a cruiser not a hot
ass. Heck, I'm a cruiser, not a hot ass, at least not any longer...
I looked and played with the Infinity grips at Osh. Nicely designed and
built. Price is ok too. The Ray Allens were kept at arm's length just
because they looked so stogy. But now that I've thought things through,
the G305/G307 is looking like the right tool on the AS catalog page.
I now wish I had looked and played with them at Osh.
Specifically, I don't want my flap switch on the stick - a single panel
mount rocker is where I'm going. I do want a hat switch for my trim on
the stick and of course a PTT. I've never flown with an autopilot so I
don't really know about a autopilot disco switch.
I'm very interested in comparisons of the Infinity and the RA grips -
quality, comfort, RV10 fit. Also thoughts on switch function. Price
just doesn't matter here given the price range.
Bill "panel cutting, instrument mounting, and wire routing" Watson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Grips |
Bill, check out the CS-8 stick grips made by CH Products.=C2- Check out t
heir products at the Tosten Manufacturing website=C2-at www.tostenmanufac
turing.com =0A=0AThese grips are functional and very comfortable for left a
nd right had interchangeability.=C2- Hope this helps.=0A=0ARegards=0A=0AP
atrick=0ARV-10 #40299=0AVH-XPP=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AF
rom: MauleDriver =0ATo: RV10-List Digest Server =0ASent: Tuesday, 11 November, 2008 1:47:40 PM=0ASubje
uleDriver =0A=0AOK, I'm all torn up.=C2- The Infin
ity grips are sexy but I just don't think I want all that function on the s
tick.=C2- This is a cruiser not a hot ass.=C2- Heck, I'm a cruiser, not
a hot ass, at least not any longer...=0A=0AI looked and played with the In
finity grips at Osh.=C2- Nicely designed and built.=C2- Price is ok too
.=C2- The Ray Allens were kept at arm's length just because they looked s
o stogy.=C2- But now that I've thought things through, the G305/G307 is l
ooking like the right tool on the AS catalog page.=C2- =C2- I now wish
I had looked and played with them at Osh.=0A=0ASpecifically, I don't want m
y flap switch on the stick - a single panel mount rocker is where I'm going
.=C2- I do want a hat switch for my trim on the stick and of course a PTT
.=C2- I've never flown with an autopilot so I don't really know about a a
utopilot disco switch.=0A=0AI'm very interested in comparisons of the Infin
ity and the RA grips - quality, comfort, RV10 fit.=C2- Also thoughts on s
witch function.=C2- Price just doesn't matter here given the price range.
=0ABill "panel cutting, instrument mounting, and wire routing" Watson=0A
- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2-
======================0A=0A=0A
Find your perfect match today at the new Yahoo!7 Dating. Get Started htt
p://au.dating.yahoo.com/?cid=53151&pid=1012
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Control Stick Grips |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
I'm really tempted to have mine carved out of hardwood.
PTT and maybe elevator trim... But like you, I'm hoping to make them
look classy.
-----Original Message-----
From: MauleDriver [mailto:MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com]
Sent: Monday, November 10, 2008 9:18 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Control Stick Grips
OK, I'm all torn up. The Infinity grips are sexy but I just don't think
I want all that function on the stick. This is a cruiser not a hot ass.
Heck, I'm a cruiser, not a hot ass, at least not any longer...
I looked and played with the Infinity grips at Osh. Nicely designed and
built. Price is ok too. The Ray Allens were kept at arm's length just
because they looked so stogy. But now that I've thought things through,
the G305/G307 is looking like the right tool on the AS catalog page.
I now wish I had looked and played with them at Osh.
Specifically, I don't want my flap switch on the stick - a single panel
mount rocker is where I'm going. I do want a hat switch for my trim on
the stick and of course a PTT. I've never flown with an autopilot so I
don't really know about a autopilot disco switch.
I'm very interested in comparisons of the Infinity and the RA grips -
quality, comfort, RV10 fit. Also thoughts on switch function. Price
just doesn't matter here given the price range.
Bill "panel cutting, instrument mounting, and wire routing" Watson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: QB Wing Angst- Oil Canning |
In order to continue to exercise your rights to contribute to the gene pool
I suggest that proseal not be used to glue angles inside wings. Proseal is a
sealant not an adhesive; hence it possible that a piece my come loose and
interfere with control mechanisms. Jammed ailerons or asymmetrical flaps
could ruin someone's day.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2008 8:22 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: QB Wing Angst- Oil Canning
Tom
Thanks for the comments.
I have thought about proseal as well. My only concern is I don't know how
well the proseal will attach to my primer. I wouldn't want the angle to
depart the skin and mess up the controls etc. My inclination would be to
rivet the stiffner. With effort I can reach the square and use a pop rivet
dimpler. Then again perhaps I am just being a bit to anal.
Cheers
Les
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of tomhanaway
Sent: November-09-08 8:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: QB Wing Angst- Oil Cannnig
Les,
I went through the same thing. I ended up using proseal to attach a 6"
piece of aluminum angle to the inside of the square that was oilcanning.
Can't speak for final result as the plane hasn't flown yet but ground test
(me pushing on panel) showed any canning was completely gone.
Tom Hanaway
Boynton Beach, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=213193#213193
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Belue" <kdbelue(at)charter.net> |
Here is the website for the butterfly valve:
http://www.nonstopaviation.com/rv10-controller-cooler-p-14566.html?osCsid=3b72614996a7569bab65773be35830a5
Kevin Belue
RV-6A Flying
RV-10 Flying
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Sent: Monday, November 10, 2008 8:04 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: cool oil
>
>
> You can do the shutter Van's sells or the butterfly valve that someone
> else does (sorry, can't remember who offhand). Both of those give you in
> flight adjustability rather than a static setting that tape gives you. Of
> course that works too.
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of lbgjb10
> Sent: Monday, November 10, 2008 6:55 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: cool oil
>
>
> Have louvers on sides and oil temps in hot summer are great--even in
> climbs. However, in cold weather sometimes hard to get above 150 when
> it's really cold outside. Any good suggestions for partially
> blocking--tape?? what will withstand engine heat and not melt?? Also have
> larger oil cooler. thanks. larry & gayle
>
> --------
> Larry and Gayle N104LG
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=213410#213410
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Air box and alternate air door |
Just pulled the cowl for first 100 hours inspection. Found the galvanized
ring (VA192A) of the alternate air door partially pulled from the bottom of
the air box. the rivets had pulled through the glass and the nut plate for
the door pivot was holding it there. To fix this I fabricated an aluminum
ring for the inside and match drilled the ring and galvanized ring. I
cleaned the bottom with a scotchbrite pad and grinder and put two additional
layers of glass on the bottom. I will epoxy putty the VA192A and the
fabricated ring to the box and rivet (1097s) after cure. I will then add
small dabs of RTV on the rivet buck tails on the inside to ensure that even
if a rivet breaks, nothing will enter the injection system.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Control Stick Grips |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
I vote for the Infinity. The Tosen grips look slick if you can live with
less function. I had Infinity them on my 4 & 6A and now the -10. I also
agree with the requirement for the AP disconnect as one of the most
important functions at fingers reach. Picture approach control saying
"Traffic Alert 1 mile turn 30 degrees left" It's nice NOT look down,
just hit the red button and start turning. I also have PTT, Flip/Flop,
dual trim. I don't have ident but would do so next time.
My 6A has the flaps on the stick and panel. I really liked the stick
flaps (momentary down, full auto up- Great for Go-Arounds). I didn't do
it on my -10 because of the preset stop option on the flaps.
Please remember to "clock" your grip to suit your arm/hand angle for max
comfort.
Good luck,
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com> |
| Subject: | IFLYRV10.COM parts videos on youtube |
Hi Listers,
I've started posting small videos of some of the parts I'm making on
youtube to get a better look at them.
Also A couple Quick announcements...
IFLYRV10.COM has partnered up with Cleveland Aircraft Tool as a
distributor for most all our products. they are already stocking the most
popular items.
New RV10 seat handle extensions are available and can be viewed at
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IwsvkJAIm0U
New RV10 Front Axle assembly is now available and can be viewed at
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EHoDdL_X28
both new products will be on the website within the next day.
thanks for all your support
Steven DiNieri
IFLYRV10.COM
capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | curtis groote <cgroote1(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | February in Arizona |
I'll be down in Arizona for the month of February, probably Casa Grande or
near there.- Is there any problem leaving the -10 outside, unsheltered, t
hat time of the year?- I do have a canopy cover.
Any recommendations for places to fly to, to see or eat?- Thanks.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Measuring Amp draw |
| From: | "marcausman" <marc(at)verticalpower.com> |
Gary,
We saw the same thing with the shunts on my RV, prior to installing the VP-200.
The current draw based on the shunts, once stabilized, read about double of the
actual current (your mileage may vary). Once the VP-200 was installed (which
is calibrated at the factory) and could compare the two, it was clear that the
shunts needed calibrating. Problem is, most people don't have the capability
to do this and the manual didn't say they needed calibrating. We saw this with
a few beta customers too. So I suspect there are lots of people with shunts
that are not calibrated. Of course with the VP-200 you don't need to install
the shunts and this is a non-issue. :)
Also, you have both alternators going into a single shunt, which implies that they
are both wired to the same spot. Perhaps the switched side of the battery
contactor? My recommendation is to wire the backup alternator to the battery
side of the contactor, and the primary alternator to the switched side of the
contactor. Why? If you lose the battery contactor, then you can run the backup
alternator which is able to "see" the battery (needed to regulate itself).
--------
Marc Ausman
http://www.verticalpower.com
RV-7 IO-390 Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=213522#213522
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VP200 Load Planning Worksheet |
| From: | "marcausman" <marc(at)verticalpower.com> |
Michael, I've got a bunch. What configuration are you planning? Internal or external
voltage regualtors? What type of EFIS?
I'll sanitize any personal info and send you something that should be close.
--------
Marc Ausman
http://www.verticalpower.com
RV-7 IO-390 Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=213524#213524
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LES KEARNEY <Kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: QB Wing Angst- Oil Canning |
David
While my contributions to the gene pool are now at an end, I would still like to
see how my contributions work out. To that end I will use rivets if that is
the correct solution. At this point I don't know if the stresses that cause the
oil canning are significant. I have spoken to Ken at Van's whose guidance was
to find out what is causing the problem and then fix that. He was surprised
that oil canning ocurred given the match drilled nature of the kit
I have a couple of other expert sources that I will tap into before I do anything.
Cheers
Les
----- Original Message -----
From: David McNeill <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Date: Monday, November 10, 2008 9:26 pm
Subject: RV10-List: Re: QB Wing Angst- Oil Canning
>
>
> In order to continue to exercise your rights to contribute to
> the gene pool
> I suggest that proseal not be used to glue angles inside wings.
> Proseal is a
> sealant not an adhesive; hence it possible that a piece my come
> loose and
> interfere with control mechanisms. Jammed ailerons or
> asymmetrical flaps
> could ruin someone's day.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
> Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2008 8:22 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: QB Wing Angst- Oil Canning
>
>
> Tom
>
> Thanks for the comments.
>
> I have thought about proseal as well. My only concern is I don't
> know how
> well the proseal will attach to my primer. I wouldn't want the
> angle to
> depart the skin and mess up the controls etc. My inclination
> would be to
> rivet the stiffner. With effort I can reach the square and use a
> pop rivet
> dimpler. Then again perhaps I am just being a bit to anal.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of tomhanaway
> Sent: November-09-08 8:03 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: QB Wing Angst- Oil Cannnig
>
>
> Les,
> I went through the same thing. I ended up using
> proseal to attach a 6"
> piece of aluminum angle to the inside of the square that was
> oilcanning.
> Can't speak for final result as the plane hasn't flown yet but
> ground test
> (me pushing on panel) showed any canning was completely gone.
>
> Tom Hanaway
> Boynton Beach, FL
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=213193#213193
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Lists This Month --
> (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)
> Click on
> _-
> = -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> RV10-List Email Forum -
> _-
> = - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Grips |
Thanks for all the great feedback! I love this list and I do contribute.
The most impressive thing about the Infinity grip is that people that
have put them in earlier a/c, are putting them in their '10s. And the
jet-gamer aesthetic is cool. 'Nuff said.
I'm still thinking through the function thing and I'm still leaning
towards FREQFUNC (frequently used functions) rather than HOTAS. Hat
switch, PTT, and autopilot disco are mandatory. Thinking through a
typical IFR CC, a freq flip/flop makes sense. I do that every 45mins or
so now and dreaming of doing it every 30mins or less in the future (see
RV grin here). An ident switch? I do that once every 2 or 3 flights.
Probably once a flight VFR. Doesn't need to be on the stick.
Flaps remain an open switch. At 17 I learned that the electric flaps
are on a switch next to the throttle (C150). Since then, I've flown
with a Johnson bar between the seats (Maule) , a sliding lever in my
left hand (LS6), and a rotating wheel with index stops going from -8 to
+90 (PIK20b). At 5X I'm regressing so a simple switch next to the
throttle should see me through dementia. Use it once a flight on the
way up and once on the way down. And as a former glider guider, I don't
do go-arounds.
While the Ray Allen stick grips aren't impressive in pics or on display,
I have to admit that the set I saw in a '10 looked pretty good. The
CS-8 from Tosten looks sexier (they're bi btw), have just enough
buttons, and could be a good choice. But does anyone have them? How's
the material selection and the fit and finish? I'm going to
investigate that one a bit more.
Bill "really enjoying building my own panel" Watson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: QB Wing Angst- Oil Canning |
| From: | "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net> |
Les,
I took a look at the panel. I'd have to agree that the proseal by itself is
not sufficient. At the same time, used in conjunction with rivets, I believe
it improves the contact between the panel and the brace (epoxy would probably
do the same thing).
In any event, may be a temperature change (not likely in Florida) but the minor
oil can is no longer in the panel even with brace removed.
Tom
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=213552#213552
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Control Stick Grips |
I do have the CH sticks and love them. Just enough buttons and not too
many. Good quality and you can adjust the rotation to suit your grip.
You won't be disappointed if you get them.
Gary Specketer
40274 Flying
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver
Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2008 1:48 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Control Stick Grips
Thanks for all the great feedback! I love this list and I do contribute.
The most impressive thing about the Infinity grip is that people that
have put them in earlier a/c, are putting them in their '10s. And the
jet-gamer aesthetic is cool. 'Nuff said.
I'm still thinking through the function thing and I'm still leaning
towards FREQFUNC (frequently used functions) rather than HOTAS. Hat
switch, PTT, and autopilot disco are mandatory. Thinking through a
typical IFR CC, a freq flip/flop makes sense. I do that every 45mins or
so now and dreaming of doing it every 30mins or less in the future (see
RV grin here). An ident switch? I do that once every 2 or 3 flights.
Probably once a flight VFR. Doesn't need to be on the stick.
Flaps remain an open switch. At 17 I learned that the electric flaps
are on a switch next to the throttle (C150). Since then, I've flown
with a Johnson bar between the seats (Maule) , a sliding lever in my
left hand (LS6), and a rotating wheel with index stops going from -8 to
+90 (PIK20b). At 5X I'm regressing so a simple switch next to the
throttle should see me through dementia. Use it once a flight on the
way up and once on the way down. And as a former glider guider, I don't
do go-arounds.
While the Ray Allen stick grips aren't impressive in pics or on display,
I have to admit that the set I saw in a '10 looked pretty good. The
CS-8 from Tosten looks sexier (they're bi btw), have just enough
buttons, and could be a good choice. But does anyone have them? How's
the material selection and the fit and finish? I'm going to
investigate that one a bit more.
Bill "really enjoying building my own panel" Watson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Grips |
Bill, I have been showing the local guys here a sample of the CS-8 grip tha
t were sent out by the supplier a while back and other builders=C2-have a
ll been impressed.=0A=0AI received my two grips and relay deck this week an
d I'm=C2-very happy with the quality.=C2- In comparison to the grips fi
tted to the Cirrus SR-20 which I am currently flying, the CS-8 grips are be
tter in that they have a little more functionality, and=C2-they are reall
y comfortable.=0A=0AHope this helps with your selection.=0A=0ARegards=0A=0A
Pat=0AAdelaide, South Australia=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_____________________________
___=0AFrom: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.c
om=0ASent: Wednesday, 12 November, 2008 5:18:20 AM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List
uleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>=0A=0AThanks for all the great feedback!=C2- I love t
his list and I do contribute.=0A=0AThe most impressive thing about the Infi
nity grip is that people that have put them in earlier a/c, are putting the
m in their '10s.=C2- And=C2- the jet-gamer aesthetic is cool.=C2- =C2
- 'Nuff said.=0A=0AI'm still thinking through the function thing and I'm
still leaning towards FREQFUNC (frequently used functions) rather than HOTA
S.=C2- Hat switch, PTT, and autopilot disco are mandatory.=C2- Thinking
through a typical IFR CC, a freq flip/flop makes sense.=C2- I do that ev
ery 45mins or so now and dreaming of doing it every 30mins or less in the f
uture (see RV grin here).=C2- An ident switch?=C2- I do that once every
2 or 3 flights.=C2- Probably once a flight VFR.=C2- Doesn't need to be
on the stick. =0AFlaps remain an open switch.=C2- At 17 I learned that t
he electric flaps are on a switch next to the throttle (C150).=C2- Since
then, I've flown with a Johnson bar between the seats (Maule) , a sliding l
ever in my left hand (LS6), and a rotating wheel with index stops going fro
m -8 to +90 (PIK20b). At 5X I'm regressing so=C2- a simple switch next to
the throttle should see me through dementia.=C2- Use it once a flight on
the way up and once on the way down.=C2- And as a former glider guider,
I don't do go-arounds.=0A=0AWhile the Ray Allen stick grips aren't impressi
ve in pics or on display, I have to admit=C2- that the set I saw in a '10
looked pretty good.=C2- The CS-8 from Tosten looks sexier (they're bi bt
w), have just enough buttons, and could=C2- be a good choice.=C2- But d
oes anyone have them?=C2- How's the material selection and the fit and fi
nish?=C2- =C2- I'm going to investigate that one a bit more.=0A=0ABill
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Drall
===========0A=0A=0A Find your perfect match today
at the new Yahoo!7 Dating. Get Started http://au.dating.yahoo.com/?cid=53
151&pid=1012
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Benua <danbenua(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air box and alternate air door |
I had the exact same failure on my RV-6A two years ago. In my
case, some pop-rivet mandrels were ingested by the engine
causing brief roughness, but no permanent damage. I complained
to Vans engineering about the design, but they were not interested.
Davids fix, using a backing ring and solid aluminum rivets, is just what
I did to repair my 6A and what I installed on my RV-10. In my opinion
there should be a Service Bulletin (and design change) on this
alternate air door. Maybe Tim could add the issue to his web page.
- Dan Benua
#40001 - Flying
> Just pulled the cowl for first 100 hours inspection. Found the galvanized
> ring (VA192A) of the alternate air door partially pulled from the bottom
of
> the air box. the rivets had pulled through the glass and the nut plate for
> the door pivot was holding it there. To fix this I fabricated an aluminum
> ring for the inside and match drilled the ring and galvanized ring. I
> cleaned the bottom with a scotchbrite pad and grinder and put two additional
> layers of glass on the bottom. I will epoxy putty the VA192A and the
> fabricated ring to the box and rivet (1097s) after cure. I will then add
> small dabs of RTV on the rivet buck tails on the inside to ensure that even
> if a rivet breaks, nothing will enter the injection system.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Selector Mounting and Scat Problem |
| From: | "partner14" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
Ok, attached are the pics.... but for some of you they're huge, sorry, haven't
messed with the conversion software.
I am awaiting one AN fitting, and then I can finish all the fuel lines and their
connections. Also, will then have pics of the scat routing.
This part had to be made from 3 pieces, welded, and then turned on a lathe. Still
working on a price... which is mostly determined by the interest. Hopefully,
we can make at least 10 at a time. So if interested, please let me know.
Rough price is between $40 and $70. The welding is the expensive part.
Don McDonald
#40636
--------
Don A. McDonald
40636
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=213601#213601
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2693c_152.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2692c_109.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LES KEARNEY <Kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: QB Wing Angst- Oil Canning |
Hi
Well I called my resident expert who lives half a country away - my younger brother.
After I explained my problem he gave me two very good solutions. First he
suggested I try to identify which row of rivets is causing the problem - there
may be some deformation / pillowing around the rivets in question. If not,
he suggested I remove some rivets and see if the oil canning is eliminated. If
the skin lifts off the underling structure a possible solution is to use a thin
shim (tapered at each end) to fill the void. This will eliminate the stress
causing the oil canning.
Another solution, if the oil canning is slight, is to rivet on a stiffner that
has a slight curve. He referred to this as "antipanting" - a British term.
We also discussed the possible cause of the problem. I suspect I didn't have enough
clecoes installed during rivetting due in large part to the rivet pattern
I was using.
Cheers
Les
#40643 - some assembly required
----- Original Message -----
From: LES KEARNEY <Kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Date: Tuesday, November 11, 2008 10:26 am
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: QB Wing Angst- Oil Canning
> David
>
> While my contributions to the gene pool are now at an end, I
> would still like to see how my contributions work out. To that
> end I will use rivets if that is the correct solution. At this
> point I don't know if the stresses that cause the oil canning
> are significant. I have spoken to Ken at Van's whose guidance
> was to find out what is causing the problem and then fix that.
> He was surprised that oil canning ocurred given the match
> drilled nature of the kit
>
> I have a couple of other expert sources that I will tap into
> before I do anything.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: David McNeill <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
> Date: Monday, November 10, 2008 9:26 pm
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: QB Wing Angst- Oil Canning
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
> >
> >
> > In order to continue to exercise your rights to contribute to
> > the gene pool
> > I suggest that proseal not be used to glue angles inside
> wings.
> > Proseal is a
> > sealant not an adhesive; hence it possible that a piece my
> come
> > loose and
> > interfere with control mechanisms. Jammed ailerons or
> > asymmetrical flaps
> > could ruin someone's day.
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les
> Kearney> Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2008 8:22 PM
> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: QB Wing Angst- Oil Canning
> >
> >
> > Tom
> >
> > Thanks for the comments.
> >
> > I have thought about proseal as well. My only concern is I
> don't
> > know how
> > well the proseal will attach to my primer. I wouldn't want the
> > angle to
> > depart the skin and mess up the controls etc. My inclination
> > would be to
> > rivet the stiffner. With effort I can reach the square and use
> a
> > pop rivet
> > dimpler. Then again perhaps I am just being a bit to anal.
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Les
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> tomhanaway> Sent: November-09-08 8:03 PM
> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV10-List: Re: QB Wing Angst- Oil Cannnig
> >
> >
> > Les,
> > I went through the same thing. I ended up using
> > proseal to attach a 6"
> > piece of aluminum angle to the inside of the square that was
> > oilcanning.
> > Can't speak for final result as the plane hasn't flown yet but
> > ground test
> > (me pushing on panel) showed any canning was completely gone.
> >
> > Tom Hanaway
> > Boynton Beach, FL
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=213193#213193
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Lists This Month --
> > _-
> =
> > (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)
> > Click on
> > _-
> >
> = -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> The
> > RV10-List Email Forum -
> > _-
> >
> = - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Ignition Harness for sale |
| From: | "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> |
Champion Ignition Harness for sale, unused in box
#CH12154E from Spruce
Paid $438.95 originally
Make an offer . . .
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Selector Mounting and Scat Problem |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Don, those are beautiful and it is a thrill to watch Steve's Utube and
your post showing how to dress up the RV-10.
Keep up the great work. I will start the confirmation list offline for
bandwidth consideration.
John Cox
40600
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of partner14
Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2008 5:49 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Selector Mounting and Scat Problem
Ok, attached are the pics.... but for some of you they're huge, sorry,
haven't messed with the conversion software.
I am awaiting one AN fitting, and then I can finish all the fuel lines
and their connections. Also, will then have pics of the scat routing.
This part had to be made from 3 pieces, welded, and then turned on a
lathe. Still working on a price... which is mostly determined by the
interest. Hopefully, we can make at least 10 at a time. So if
interested, please let me know. Rough price is between $40 and $70.
The welding is the expensive part.
Don McDonald
#40636
--------
Don A. McDonald
40636
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=213601#213601
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2693c_152.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2692c_109.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists |
Dear Listers,
There is no advertising income to support the Matronics Email Lists and Forums.
The operation is supported 100% by your personal Contributions during the November
Fund Raiser.
Please make your Contribution today to support the continued operation and upgrade
of these services. You can pick up a really nice gift for making your Contribution
too!
You may use a Credit Card or Paypal at the Matronics Contribution Site here:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or, you can send a personal check to the following address:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551-0347
Thank you in advance for your generous support!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Selector Mounting and Scat Problem |
Very nice. My big concern however would be something small getting into the recess
and jamming the valve action.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of partner14
Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2008 7:49 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Selector Mounting and Scat Problem
Ok, attached are the pics.... but for some of you they're huge, sorry, haven't
messed with the conversion software.
I am awaiting one AN fitting, and then I can finish all the fuel lines and their
connections. Also, will then have pics of the scat routing.
This part had to be made from 3 pieces, welded, and then turned on a lathe. Still
working on a price... which is mostly determined by the interest. Hopefully,
we can make at least 10 at a time. So if interested, please let me know.
Rough price is between $40 and $70. The welding is the expensive part.
Don McDonald
#40636
--------
Don A. McDonald
40636
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=213601#213601
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2693c_152.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2692c_109.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | IFLYRV10.COM parts videos on youtube |
Steven=2C thanks for the video=2C it really helps.
I went to the Cleveland web site and did not find the front axle parts list
ed. Can you direct me to them.
Thanks=2C
JOhn G.> From: capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subject:
RV10-List: IFLYRV10.COM parts videos on youtube> Date: Tue=2C 11 Nov 2008
ve(at)iflyrv10.com>> > Hi Listers=2C> I've started posting small videos of som
e of the parts I'm making on > youtube to get a better look at them.> > Als
o A couple Quick announcements...> IFLYRV10.COM has partnered up with Cleve
land Aircraft Tool as a > distributor for most all our products. they are a
lready stocking the most > popular items.> > New RV10 seat handle extension
s are available and can be viewed at > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iws
vkJAIm0U> > New RV10 Front Axle assembly is now available and can be viewed
at > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EHoDdL_X28> > both new products wil
l be on the website within the next day.> > > thanks for all your support>
========================> _
=========> > >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Selector Mounting and Scat Problem |
Can't happen.- Everything is screwed down so tight.- I'm sure you could
pour sand or/and a soda in it and not affect anything.- Now maybe a hand
full of gravel might be a temporary-problem.
--- On Wed, 11/12/08, RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wr
ote:
From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen) <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Selector Mounting and Scat Problem
Date: Wednesday, November 12, 2008, 4:39 AM
Very nice. My big concern however would be something small getting into th
e
recess and jamming the valve action.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of partner14
Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2008 7:49 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Selector Mounting and Scat Problem
Ok, attached are the pics.... but for some of you they're huge, sorry,
haven't messed with the conversion software.
I am awaiting one AN fitting, and then I can finish all the fuel lines and
their connections. Also, will then have pics of the scat routing.
This part had to be made from 3 pieces, welded, and then turned on a lathe.
Still working on a price... which is mostly determined by the interest.
Hopefully, we can make at least 10 at a time. So if interested, please let
me
know. Rough price is between $40 and $70. The welding is the expensive pa
rt.
Don McDonald
#40636
--------
Don A. McDonald
40636
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=213601#213601
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2693c_152.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2692c_109.jpg
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IFLYRV10.COM parts videos on youtube |
Hi John,
the seat handle extensions and wheel axle assemblies are going to be
added to iflyrv10.com today (tonight- after 7pm). Cleaveland might take
a few extra days to add it to their site..
steve
From: John Gonzalez
Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2008 10:50 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: IFLYRV10.COM parts videos on youtube
Steven, thanks for the video, it really helps.
I went to the Cleveland web site and did not find the front axle parts
listed. Can you direct me to them.
Thanks,
JOhn G.
> From: capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: IFLYRV10.COM parts videos on youtube
> Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2008 03:15:17 -0500
>
>
> Hi Listers,
> I've started posting small videos of some of the parts I'm making on
> youtube to get a better look at them.
>
> Also A couple Quick announcements...
> IFLYRV10.COM has partnered up with Cleveland Aircraft Tool as a
> distributor for most all our products. they are already stocking the
most
> popular items.
>
> New RV10 seat handle extensions are available and can be viewed at
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IwsvkJAIm0U
>
> New RV10 Front Axle assembly is now available and can be viewed at
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EHoDdL_X28
>
> both new products will be on the website within the next day.
>
>
> thanks for all your support
> Steven DiNieri
> IFLYRV10.COM
> capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com
>
>
>
> ====================
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Johnston <cj(at)popstudios.com> |
| Subject: | Heater push-pull control cable |
Hey all -
I'm not at the airplane, and was wondering if anyone knew the length
of the cabin heat control cables?
thanks!
cj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Lammers <davelammers(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heater push-pull control cable |
Chris,
Van's supplies these at 72 inches long. I recall cutting off between
1.5 and 2 feet during installation. One routes differently that the
other so the final dimensions are different. Also the final is
dependant upon where you elect to mount the control knob. Van's
supplied length gives plenty of options.
Dave Lammers
Chris Johnston wrote:
>
> Hey all -
>
> I'm not at the airplane, and was wondering if anyone knew the length
> of the cabin heat control cables?
>
> thanks!
>
> cj
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IFLYRV10.COM parts videos on youtube |
Just wondering has there been reports of the newer Van's Al spacers
spinning? Just finished installing nose wheel per plans.
Thanks
Chris Lucas
#40072
----- Original Message -----
From: Steven DiNieri
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2008 12:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: IFLYRV10.COM parts videos on youtube
Hi John,
the seat handle extensions and wheel axle assemblies are going to
be added to iflyrv10.com today (tonight- after 7pm). Cleaveland might
take a few extra days to add it to their site..
steve
From: John Gonzalez
Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2008 10:50 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: IFLYRV10.COM parts videos on youtube
Steven, thanks for the video, it really helps.
I went to the Cleveland web site and did not find the front axle parts
listed. Can you direct me to them.
Thanks,
JOhn G.
> From: capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: IFLYRV10.COM parts videos on youtube
> Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2008 03:15:17 -0500
>
>
> Hi Listers,
> I've started posting small videos of some of the parts I'm making on
> youtube to get a better look at them.
>
> Also A couple Quick announcements...
> IFLYRV10.COM has partnered up with Cleveland Aircraft Tool as a
> distributor for most all our products. they are already stocking the
most
> popular items.
>
> New RV10 seat handle extensions are available and can be viewed at
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IwsvkJAIm0U
>
> New RV10 Front Axle assembly is now available and can be viewed at
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EHoDdL_X28
>
> both new products will be on the website within the next day.
>
>
> thanks for all your support
> Steven DiNieri
> IFLYRV10.COM
> capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com
>
>
>
> ====================
>
>
>
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Hertner <effectus(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IFLYRV10.COM parts videos on youtube |
Chris,
A fellow who has a '10 at my home airport has had constant problems with
his seals being damaged by the new aluminum spacers. He has been quite
frustrated.
Dave Hertner
Chris wrote:
> Just wondering has there been reports of the newer Van's Al spacers
> spinning? Just finished installing nose wheel per plans.
> Thanks
> Chris Lucas
> #40072
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Steven DiNieri
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Wednesday, November 12, 2008 12:40 PM
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: IFLYRV10.COM parts videos on youtube
>
> Hi John,
> the seat handle extensions and wheel axle assemblies are going
> to be added to iflyrv10.com today (tonight- after 7pm). Cleaveland
> might take a few extra days to add it to their site..
>
> steve
>
>
> *From:* John Gonzalez
> *Sent:* Wednesday, November 12, 2008 10:50 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: IFLYRV10.COM parts videos on youtube
>
> Steven, thanks for the video, it really helps.
>
> I went to the Cleveland web site and did not find the front axle
> parts listed. Can you direct me to them.
>
> Thanks,
>
> JOhn G.
>
> > From: capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com <mailto:capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com>
> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV10-List: IFLYRV10.COM parts videos on youtube
> > Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2008 03:15:17 -0500
> >
>
> >
> > Hi Listers,
> > I've started posting small videos of some of the parts I'm making on
> > youtube to get a better look at them.
> >
> > Also A couple Quick announcements...
> > IFLYRV10.COM has partnered up with Cleveland Aircraft Tool as a
> > distributor for most all our products. they are already stocking
> the most
> > popular items.
> >
> > New RV10 seat handle extensions are available and can be viewed at
> > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IwsvkJAIm0U
> >
> > New RV10 Front Axle assembly is now available and can be viewed at
> > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EHoDdL_X28
> >
> > both new products will be on the website within the next day.
> >
> >
> > thanks for all your support
> > Steven DiNieri
> > IFLYRV10.COM
> > capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com
> >
> >
> >
> > ====================
> >
> >
> >
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> *
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> *
>
> *
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IFLYRV10.COM parts videos on youtube |
If you install them and torque them I was under the impression it will still gall
the bearing, the spacer needs to be staked or secured against rotation from
all I've read.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Hertner" <effectus(at)rogers.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2008 3:01:53 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: IFLYRV10.COM parts videos on youtube
Chris,
A fellow who has a '10 at my home airport has had constant problems with
his seals being damaged by the new aluminum spacers. He has been quite
frustrated.
Dave Hertner
Chris wrote:
> Just wondering has there been reports of the newer Van's Al spacers
> spinning? Just finished installing nose wheel per plans.
> Thanks
> Chris Lucas
> #40072
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Steven DiNieri
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Wednesday, November 12, 2008 12:40 PM
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: IFLYRV10.COM parts videos on youtube
>
> Hi John,
> the seat handle extensions and wheel axle assemblies are going
> to be added to iflyrv10.com today (tonight- after 7pm). Cleaveland
> might take a few extra days to add it to their site..
>
> steve
>
>
> *From:* John Gonzalez
> *Sent:* Wednesday, November 12, 2008 10:50 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: IFLYRV10.COM parts videos on youtube
>
> Steven, thanks for the video, it really helps.
>
> I went to the Cleveland web site and did not find the front axle
> parts listed. Can you direct me to them.
>
> Thanks,
>
> JOhn G.
>
> > From: capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com <mailto:capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com>
> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV10-List: IFLYRV10.COM parts videos on youtube
> > Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2008 03:15:17 -0500
> >
>
> >
> > Hi Listers,
> > I've started posting small videos of some of the parts I'm making on
> > youtube to get a better look at them.
> >
> > Also A couple Quick announcements...
> > IFLYRV10.COM has partnered up with Cleveland Aircraft Tool as a
> > distributor for most all our products. they are already stocking
> the most
> > popular items.
> >
> > New RV10 seat handle extensions are available and can be viewed at
> > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IwsvkJAIm0U
> >
> > New RV10 Front Axle assembly is now available and can be viewed at
> > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EHoDdL_X28
> >
> > both new products will be on the website within the next day.
> >
> >
> > thanks for all your support
> > Steven DiNieri
> > IFLYRV10.COM
> > capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com
> >
> >
> >
> > ====================
> >
> >
> >
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> *
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> *
>
> *
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Air box and alternate air door |
| From: | gengrumpy(at)aol.com |
Dave, any pictures you can post for the rest of us.?
grumpy
N184JM
-----Original Message-----
From: David McNeill <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Sent: Mon, 10 Nov 2008 10:43 pm
Subject: RV10-List: Air box and alternate air door
Just pulled
the cowl for first 100 hours inspection.?Found the galvanized ring (VA192A)
of the alternate air door partially pulled from the bottom of the air box. the
rivets had pulled through the glass and the nut plate for the door pivot was
holding it there. To fix this I fabricated an aluminum ring for the inside and
match drilled the ring and galvanized ring. I cleaned the bottom with a scotchbrite
pad and
grinder and put two additional layers of glass on the bottom. I will epoxy putty
the VA192A and the fabricated ring to the box and rivet (1097s) after cure. I
will then add small dabs of RTV on the rivet buck tails on the inside to ensure
that even if a rivet breaks, nothing will enter the injection
system.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heater push-pull control cable |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Fitted mine a couple of weeks ago. They are a real pain in the neck. I purchased
the excellent after market Stainless steel air boxes from Utah. I think that
they are a real safety enhancement. Anyway I wound up fitting them 3 times. First
a rough fit. Second to get my panel installed and get a final exact measurement,
and third for the final fit/install in the panel. I would suggest the
same protocol - you do not want to cut them too short.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=213879#213879
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Air box and alternate air door |
unfortunately no; I did not have my camera there when I finished and
replaced the cowl. It is just a doubler ring of .062 aluminum I believe the
inner diameter was 2.25" and the outer was 4". Just a reminder that any
where rivets, solids or blinds, are to be set in fiberglass the buck tail
side should have a metal washer /doubler/CS washer to spread the compression
load. This goes for the CS screws holding the seatbelt anchors; the lid
perimeter and the fiberglass elevator tips etc.. On my elevator tips I used
small stainless flat washers that the blind would be seated in when riveting
the tips in place. that way it will be difficult for the blind rivets
holding the tips in place to pull through due to vibration.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gengrumpy(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2008 5:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Air box and alternate air door
Dave, any pictures you can post for the rest of us.
grumpy
N184JM
-----Original Message-----
From: David McNeill <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Sent: Mon, 10 Nov 2008 10:43 pm
Subject: RV10-List: Air box and alternate air door
Just pulled the cowl for first 100 hours inspection. Found the galvanized
ring (VA192A) of the alternate air door partially pulled from the bottom of
the air box. the rivets had pulled through the glass and the nut plate for
the door pivot was holding it there. To fix this I fabricated an aluminum
ring for the inside and match drilled the ring and galvanized ring. I
cleaned the bottom with a scotchbrite pad and grinder and put two additional
layers of glass on the bottom. I will epoxy putty the VA192A and the
fabricated ring to the box and rivet (1097s) after cure. I will then add
small dabs of RTV on the rivet buck tails on the inside to ensure that even
if a rivet breaks, nothing will enter the injection system.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IFLYRV10.COM parts videos on youtube |
Rick, the main issue is not allowing the big aluminum axle from tightening
down between the forks. the axle spacers and hub/bearing assembly should
measure several thou longer than the main axle itself. according to ken at
vans, when torqued down the load should be between the forks and bearing,
basically the axle should float a bit between the forks. if the axle was
left short then the preload on the bearing and spacer collar would prevent
it from spinning.
I took the same idea and simply made the contact surface area against
the fork larger. instead of a collar against the fork I use the full surface
area of an end cap design. I cut the axles to be 1/16 shorter than the sum
of the rest of the parts insuring proper bearing preload.
with the end cap design, it can also be pinned easily to the fork for
anti rotation if the builder so requires.... (during my testing of the
design I took 12" channel locks and could not spin the end caps, so I dont
think pinning will be necessary, but the option is there)
steve dinieri
iflyrv10.com
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Rick Sked" <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2008 6:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: IFLYRV10.COM parts videos on youtube
>
> If you install them and torque them I was under the impression it will
> still gall the bearing, the spacer needs to be staked or secured against
> rotation from all I've read.
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David Hertner" <effectus(at)rogers.com>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2008 3:01:53 PM (GMT-0800)
> America/Los_Angeles
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: IFLYRV10.COM parts videos on youtube
>
>
> Chris,
>
> A fellow who has a '10 at my home airport has had constant problems with
> his seals being damaged by the new aluminum spacers. He has been quite
> frustrated.
>
> Dave Hertner
>
> Chris wrote:
>> Just wondering has there been reports of the newer Van's Al spacers
>> spinning? Just finished installing nose wheel per plans.
>> Thanks
>> Chris Lucas
>> #40072
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> *From:* Steven DiNieri
>> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, November 12, 2008 12:40 PM
>> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: IFLYRV10.COM parts videos on youtube
>>
>> Hi John,
>> the seat handle extensions and wheel axle assemblies are going
>> to be added to iflyrv10.com today (tonight- after 7pm). Cleaveland
>> might take a few extra days to add it to their site..
>>
>> steve
>>
>>
>> *From:* John Gonzalez
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, November 12, 2008 10:50 AM
>> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: IFLYRV10.COM parts videos on youtube
>>
>> Steven, thanks for the video, it really helps.
>>
>> I went to the Cleveland web site and did not find the front axle
>> parts listed. Can you direct me to them.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> JOhn G.
>>
>> > From: capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com <mailto:capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com>
>> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> > Subject: RV10-List: IFLYRV10.COM parts videos on youtube
>> > Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2008 03:15:17 -0500
>> >
>>
>> >
>> > Hi Listers,
>> > I've started posting small videos of some of the parts I'm making
>> on
>> > youtube to get a better look at them.
>> >
>> > Also A couple Quick announcements...
>> > IFLYRV10.COM has partnered up with Cleveland Aircraft Tool as a
>> > distributor for most all our products. they are already stocking
>> the most
>> > popular items.
>> >
>> > New RV10 seat handle extensions are available and can be viewed at
>> > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IwsvkJAIm0U
>> >
>> > New RV10 Front Axle assembly is now available and can be viewed at
>> > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EHoDdL_X28
>> >
>> > both new products will be on the website within the next day.
>> >
>> >
>> > thanks for all your support
>> > Steven DiNieri
>> > IFLYRV10.COM
>> > capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > ====================
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> *
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> *
>>
>> *
>>
>> *
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Belue" <kdbelue(at)charter.net> |
I don't know how well everyone's nose wheel/axle is working but Grove has a
nice setup for the RV-10 as well as other models. I installed their nose
wheel kit on my RV-6A and it is much better than the stock configuration. I
can move the plane much easier and it lands better, without shimmy. I really
don't like the Matco bearing configuration - the Grove has a standard
bearing/seal like the main wheels. Their kits include wheel and axle
hardware:
http://www.groveaircraft.com/rvnose.html
Kevin Belue
RV-6A Flying
RV-10 Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Pitot (Gretz heated) & AOA placeement ? |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I know that this has been discussed a while back, but there are a lot more planes
out there now and a larger experience base.
Most people seem to put the Pitot in the bay one rib inside or one rib outside
the aileron push rods. This is logical, but a bit difficult for maintenance. Especially
with the more complex Gretz heated pitot unit. What have been your experiences??
What about positioning the Pitot just inside the wing tip? Ron H. had one positioned
outboard like that at OSH. It would have great access for maintenance (just
remove the 42 wingtip screws). Would this location induce any airspeed errors.
Ditto for the placement of the AFS purchased AOA system?
All input is appreciated........
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=213892#213892
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV10 nose wheel |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Ahhhh. A blatant commercial plug......
But a seemingly good one.
I had not heard of this as a problem (shimmy) but please elaborate more.
What does the Grove unit do better than the stock Vans setup? Does it eliminate
the axle bolt which seems kind of rinky-dink and a weak link?
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=213894#213894
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot (Gretz heated) |
Mike,
I have the Gretz pitot tube and here are a few photos of where I
installed it and the controller board. As you can see from photo 2 it's
right near the tie down ring. It's very easy to access, just take off
the inspection plate and reach in. I've not had any difficulty with it
being placed here.
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
Subject: Pitot (Gretz heated) & AOA placeement ?
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
I know that this has been discussed a while back, but there are a
lot more planes
out there now and a larger experience base.
Most people seem to put the Pitot in the bay one rib inside or one
rib outside
the aileron push rods. This is logical, but a bit difficult for
maintenance. Especially
with the more complex Gretz heated pitot unit. What have been your
experiences??
What about positioning the Pitot just inside the wing tip? Ron H.
had one positioned
outboard like that at OSH. It would have great access for
maintenance (just
remove the 42 wingtip screws). Would this location induce any
airspeed errors.
Ditto for the placement of the AFS purchased AOA system?
All input is appreciated........
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Pitot (Gretz heated) |
Several people also moved it out to the second bay or so from the wingtip
. This makes it very accessible.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne Edgerton
Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2008 7:02 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Pitot (Gretz heated)
Mike,
I have the Gretz pitot tube and here are a few photos of where I installed
it and the controller board. As you can see from photo 2 it's right near th
e tie down ring. It's very easy to access, just take off the inspection pla
te and reach in. I've not had any difficulty with it being placed here.
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
Subject:
Pitot (Gretz heated) & AOA placeement ?
From:
"AirMike" >
I know that this has been discussed a while back, but there are a lot
more planes
out there now and a larger experience base.
Most people seem to put the Pitot in the bay one rib inside or one ri
b outside
the aileron push rods. This is logical, but a bit difficult for maint
enance. Especially
with the more complex Gretz heated pitot unit. What have been your ex
periences??
What about positioning the Pitot just inside the wing tip? Ron H. had
one positioned
outboard like that at OSH. It would have great access for maintenanc
e (just
remove the 42 wingtip screws). Would this location induce any airspee
d errors.
Ditto for the placement of the AFS purchased AOA system?
All input is appreciated........
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | Pitot (Gretz heated) & AOA placeement ? |
I mounted mine to the outboard inspection panel. I put the circuit board
there too on some simple stand-offs, and it's been working fine.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2008 11:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Pitot (Gretz heated) & AOA placeement ?
I know that this has been discussed a while back, but there are a lot more
planes out there now and a larger experience base.
Most people seem to put the Pitot in the bay one rib inside or one rib
outside the aileron push rods. This is logical, but a bit difficult for
maintenance. Especially with the more complex Gretz heated pitot unit. What
have been your experiences??
What about positioning the Pitot just inside the wing tip? Ron H. had one
positioned outboard like that at OSH. It would have great access for
maintenance (just remove the 42 wingtip screws). Would this location induce
any airspeed errors. Ditto for the placement of the AFS purchased AOA
system?
All input is appreciated........
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=213892#213892
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net> |
I did something like this on my stock RV-8A nose gear by using a left over
piece of steel aileron connecting rod tubing slid over the bearing bolt on
the inside of the wheel. I trimmed the tubing until it provided a good fit
on the bearings with the nut on the bearing bolt tighten. This ended my
nose gear shimmy problem. I'll do the same on the RV-10.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (450 hrs)
RV-10 (fuselage)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Belue
Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2008 11:50 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV10 nose wheel
I don't know how well everyone's nose wheel/axle is working but Grove has a
nice setup for the RV-10 as well as other models. I installed their nose
wheel kit on my RV-6A and it is much better than the stock configuration. I
can move the plane much easier and it lands better, without shimmy. I really
don't like the Matco bearing configuration - the Grove has a standard
bearing/seal like the main wheels. Their kits include wheel and axle
hardware:
http://www.groveaircraft.com/rvnose.html
Kevin Belue
RV-6A Flying
RV-10 Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Belue" <kdbelue(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV10 nose wheel |
Oh, I didn't intend my message to be a commercial plug. I'm not connected
with Grove in any way, I just think their wheel and bearing solution is the
correct way to build it. Their nose wheel is made like the main gear
wheels - there isn't any rubber seal on the bearing. The bearings are
installed with a felt dust seal and a snap ring. They also supply an axle
and spacers so that you tighten the axle to preload the bearings like you do
on a car. The spacers have a pin that you install in the yoke which prevents
them from moving. My Matco wheel would not spin by itself when I spun it
with the nose wheel held off the ground. I installed the Grove wheel and it
continued to spin freely after turning it by hand. I also noticed that my
plane was easier to move when I push it into the hangar. There is a lot of
talk on Van's Airforce website forums about this wheel on the 2-seat RV's.
I've just wondered why it seems no one is using the Grove wheel on the
RV-10. I think it would correct the problems with the spacers moving around
with the Matco wheel.
Note: the shimmy I referred to is on an RV-6A; RV-10's don't do that as far
as I've seen.
Kevin Belue
----- Original Message -----
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2008 1:14 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV10 nose wheel
>
> Ahhhh. A blatant commercial plug......
>
> But a seemingly good one.
>
> I had not heard of this as a problem (shimmy) but please elaborate more.
> What does the Grove unit do better than the stock Vans setup? Does it
> eliminate the axle bolt which seems kind of rinky-dink and a weak link?
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
> Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=213894#213894
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Selector Mounting and Scat Problem |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)AOL.COM> |
Don,
Okay, I'm slow, but I'm not getting how recessing the fuel selector into the tunnel
cover helps with the scat tube situation.
What am I missing?
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=214028#214028
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Selector Mounting and Scat Problem |
I just picked up the last AN fitting needed to finish the fuel lines.- Th
en I'll hook everything up and run the scat tubing.- I believe by moving
the valve forward 5", there will be plenty of room to run the scat below th
e existing Van tunnel,-and to the right of the fuel valve.- We'll see t
omorrow....- I'll take some pictures.- Thanks again for the hospitality
at Copperstate.
Don McDonald
--- On Thu, 11/13/08, woxofswa wrote:
From: woxofswa <woxof(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Fuel Selector Mounting and Scat Problem
Date: Thursday, November 13, 2008, 5:13 PM
Don,
Okay, I'm slow, but I'm not getting how recessing the fuel selector
into the tunnel cover helps with the scat tube situation.
What am I missing?
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=214028#214028
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Latest Ram Air update |
I'm doggedly working my way through 'Final Assembly' and a seemingly
endless 'punch list'. A lot of nitty detailed things that don't provide
a lot of 'feedback' However today was different. while I was @ OSH I
ran into Rod Bower http://www.ramairforhomebuilts.com/default.htm
who built the Ram Air system I'm using.
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%20The%20Home%20Stretch/slides/DSC05667.html
Rod was there with what turned out to be his award winning (Lindy) RV-8
on display. It is truly a thing of beauty, and Rod is a MASTER BUILDER !.
http://www.ramairforhomebuilts.com/Photos/RV8/default.htm
While we were talking he showed me an update he has made to his Ram Air
system. For those of you with updraft induction, this is probably not of
interest, But for any of you that have a forward facing Fuel servo. And
are looking for some free added power this is definitely something you
should consider. I thought the original design was one of the most
cleverly engineered items I had come across during my build and my
personal search of 'best of breed'. His unit satisfies 3 different modes
of induction with the same device, 1. Filtered Air. 2. Alternate Air, 3.
Ram Air. But this latest update is an improvement on the design and
adds an additional margin of safety for the alternate air mode. AND
it's really PRETTY !!!
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Final%20Assembly/slides/DSC06930.html
I've got no interest in Rod's business other than a very satisfied
customer who wants to see him succeed and continue to be an asset to the
builder community. I can't verify this personally ( at least not for a
short while!) But other that have installed his system report seeing
anywhere from 1" to 1 1/2" increase of MP when the Ram Air is opened.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Grips |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
I also have the infinity grips. Another function to consider on the grip is to
turn off the traffic or terrain warnings when they are unwanted and distracting.
If you get the infinities, mount them so they are clocked inboard about 15-20 degrees,
not in line with the stick. This will keep your wrist from being bent
back.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=214064#214064
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Fund Raiser Lagging Last Year By Over 30%... |
As of the 13th, the Fund Raiser is currently about 30% behind last year in terms
of the number of Contributions. Yet, oddly the number of messages posted per
day is up by 10 to 20% on the average. It costs real money to run these Lists
and they are supported 100% though your Contributions during the Fund Raiser.
Won't you please take a minute right now to make your Contribution to keep
these Lists up and running?
Contribution Page:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | What's My Contribution Used For? |
Dear Listers,
Some have asked, "What's my Contribution used for?" and that's a good question.
Here are just a few examples of what your direct List support enables. It provides
for the very expensive, commercial-grade T1 Internet connection used on
the List insuring maximum performance and minimal contention when accessing
List services. It pays for the regular system hardware and software upgrades
enabling the highest performance possible for services such as the Archive Search
Engine, List Browser, and Forums. It pays for 19+ years worth of online archive
data available for instant random search and access. And, it offsets the
many hours spent writing, developing, and maintaining the custom applications
that power this List Service such as the List Browse, Search Engine, Forums,
Wiki and PhotoShare.
But most importantly, your List Contribution enables a forum where you and your
peers can communicate freely in an environment that is free from moderation,
censorship, advertising, commercialism, SPAM, and computer viruses. How many
places on the Internet can you make all those statements these days?
It is YOUR CONTRIBUTION that directly enables these many aspects of these valuable
List services. Please support it today with your List Contribution. Its
one of the best investments you can make in your Sport...
List Contribution Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lbgjb10" <lbgjb(at)gnt.net> |
whats the standard size scat tube that runs to to the oil cooler--3 or 4 inches??
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=214608#214608
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
Larry,
It's 4 inches.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "lbgjb10" <lbgjb(at)gnt.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 16, 2008 4:39:46 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: scat tube
whats the standard size scat tube that runs to to the oil cooler--3 or 4 inches??
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=214608#214608
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
4"
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
352-427-0285
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 16, 2008, at 7:39 PM, "lbgjb10" wrote:
>
> whats the standard size scat tube that runs to to the oil cooler--3
> or 4 inches??
>
> --------
> Larry and Gayle N104LG
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=214608#214608
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Measuring spar bolt hole spacing |
| From: | "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> |
Listers:
I'm not able to get to the hangar right now. Could someone who's
working on their kit today measure the center-to-center hole spacing for
the spar bolt holes, either in the end of their spar, or the fuselage
spar bulkhead assembly?
Much obliged . . .
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
40025
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Dave Saylor / Aircrafters / Composite Grade School |
Hi
Noting JC's lament about the list being quiet, I thought I would try to fix
that.
Over the week end I attended Dave Saylors composite class in Watsonville Ca.
The weather was great and the instruction invaluable. It was very much a
hands on course and Dave spoke about the materials we would be using on the
-10. More importantly, he spoke about the various fibreglass components we
would be working on and provided specific guidance on what to do.
Jeff Carpenter "lent" his fuse / canopy to the class and we watch how Chuy
(sp?) and Harold fit the canopy in two (count 'em two) tries. Once you
understand the geometry and the process, it doesn't seem all that difficult.
Dave also spoke on how to fit the doors as well as the windows including how
to avoid a bulge where the window is glassed in near the front door frame at
the tip of the fuse.
To boot, I got to meet a number of builders and see John Jansen again. If
you are a fibreglass neophyte or new to the 10, the course is well worth the
trip.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643 - some assembly required.
PS: As a look at the falling snow, I wish I was back in California...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Measuring spar bolt hole spacing |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
Tim,
Top to bottom is 7 1/8".
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=214700#214700
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuselage before wings? |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
Can anyone see a reason why I couldn't complete the fuse kit before the
wings?
I was planning on going with the wings next but with the economic
uncertainty ahead of us, I'm thinking a fuse kit might be a better
option.
If I purchase QB wings, I would probably be ready for the fuse purchase
in a few months. If I bought a fuse, I could keep busy for a longer
period of time (On meaningful projects) while the economy has more time
to recover. I could:
1) Finish the fuse kit.
2) Join it to the tail cone.
3) Fit the canopy area.
4) Run systems for fuel, static, control systems, etc.
5) Run wiring
6) Setup ELT's, etc, etc, etc.
The more I think about it, the more I think a fuse kit makes better
sense at this time. Especially if you're wanting to burn time on
meaningful tasks, instead of burning time waiting for the economy to
recover while your completed wings sit in the cradle.
Thoughts on doing a fuse kit before the wings???
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Fuselage before wings? |
Yes, the part of the spar for the fuselage comes in the wing kit. I
suspect you can make arrangements to purchase it outside of the kit.
If economics is an issue, why not just go normal build, save the QB fees and
take a little longer? The wings aren't that difficult, just a lot of
repetitive tasks. Although I will admit know that I'm just finishing the
wings myself, I think the fuselage build will be more enjoyable since it
will start looking like an aircraft quickly. The fuselage may also require
more investment for instruments, engine, etc.
I don't think order is significant. You should be able to do either
successfully with proper coordination with Van's to get all the necessary
parts.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 2:25 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuselage before wings?
Can anyone see a reason why I couldn't complete the fuse kit before the
wings?
I was planning on going with the wings next but with the economic
uncertainty ahead of us, I'm thinking a fuse kit might be a better option.
If I purchase QB wings, I would probably be ready for the fuse purchase in a
few months. If I bought a fuse, I could keep busy for a longer period of
time (On meaningful projects) while the economy has more time to recover. I
could:
1) Finish the fuse kit.
2) Join it to the tail cone.
3) Fit the canopy area.
4) Run systems for fuel, static, control systems, etc.
5) Run wiring
6) Setup ELT's, etc, etc, etc.
The more I think about it, the more I think a fuse kit makes better sense at
this time. Especially if you're wanting to burn time on meaningful tasks,
instead of burning time waiting for the economy to recover while your
completed wings sit in the cradle.
Thoughts on doing a fuse kit before the wings???
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Fuselage before wings? |
Phill
I bought the fuse (slow build) before my QB wings. The QB wings are pretty
quick to complete - only two skins and some conduit to run. Everything else
riveting wise is done.
If you get the slow build fuse, be sure to let them know that you have not
done the wings. You will need the Center Section of the wings as it goes
through the fuse. As well, the wing bolts come with the wings and you will
need these as well. What you can do, is get some el cheapo bolts and save
the close tolerance bolts for when you attach the wings - this is what I
did. A slow build fuse will keep you occupied for a while to be sure.
I wanted to do the fuse as it is a major bit of kit to construct and I
though the experience would be a good thing - it was.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643 - some assembly required.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: November-17-08 12:25 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuselage before wings?
Can anyone see a reason why I couldn't complete the fuse kit before the
wings?
I was planning on going with the wings next but with the economic
uncertainty ahead of us, I'm thinking a fuse kit might be a better option.
If I purchase QB wings, I would probably be ready for the fuse purchase in a
few months. If I bought a fuse, I could keep busy for a longer period of
time (On meaningful projects) while the economy has more time to recover. I
could:
1) Finish the fuse kit.
2) Join it to the tail cone.
3) Fit the canopy area.
4) Run systems for fuel, static, control systems, etc.
5) Run wiring
6) Setup ELT's, etc, etc, etc.
The more I think about it, the more I think a fuse kit makes better sense at
this time. Especially if you're wanting to burn time on meaningful tasks,
instead of burning time waiting for the economy to recover while your
completed wings sit in the cradle.
Thoughts on doing a fuse kit before the wings???
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | Fuselage before wings? |
You'll need to get the center wing spar section that comes with the wing
kit. Without it you cannot get very far. It takes about 6mo to get the
fuse to the quickbuild point. Big dollar items follow that pretty quickly.
-Ben
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 11:25 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuselage before wings?
Can anyone see a reason why I couldn't complete the fuse kit before the
wings?
I was planning on going with the wings next but with the economic
uncertainty ahead of us, I'm thinking a fuse kit might be a better option.
If I purchase QB wings, I would probably be ready for the fuse purchase in a
few months. If I bought a fuse, I could keep busy for a longer period of
time (On meaningful projects) while the economy has more time to recover. I
could:
1) Finish the fuse kit.
2) Join it to the tail cone.
3) Fit the canopy area.
4) Run systems for fuel, static, control systems, etc.
5) Run wiring
6) Setup ELT's, etc, etc, etc.
The more I think about it, the more I think a fuse kit makes better sense at
this time. Especially if you're wanting to burn time on meaningful tasks,
instead of burning time waiting for the economy to recover while your
completed wings sit in the cradle.
Thoughts on doing a fuse kit before the wings???
Phil
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
database 3619 (20081117) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuselage before wings? |
| From: | "Douglas, Brian S" <brian-douglas(at)uiowa.edu> |
That's the route I took and for nearly the same reason. It seemed like
I'd be done with the QB wings before I had time to save up for the
fuselage kit. On the other hand, there's lots of stuff to keep you busy
in the fuse kit while you save up for QB wings.
-Brian
Iowa City, IA
#40497
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 1:25 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuselage before wings?
Can anyone see a reason why I couldn't complete the fuse kit before the
wings?
I was planning on going with the wings next but with the economic
uncertainty ahead of us, I'm thinking a fuse kit might be a better
option.
If I purchase QB wings, I would probably be ready for the fuse purchase
in a few months. If I bought a fuse, I could keep busy for a longer
period of time (On meaningful projects) while the economy has more time
to recover. I could:
1) Finish the fuse kit.
2) Join it to the tail cone.
3) Fit the canopy area.
4) Run systems for fuel, static, control systems, etc.
5) Run wiring
6) Setup ELT's, etc, etc, etc.
The more I think about it, the more I think a fuse kit makes better
sense at this time. Especially if you're wanting to burn time on
meaningful tasks, instead of burning time waiting for the economy to
recover while your completed wings sit in the cradle.
Thoughts on doing a fuse kit before the wings???
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dave Saylor / Aircrafters / Composite Grade School |
| From: | "Bill Cannon" <bc777(at)optonline.net> |
Ditto. Great class. Well worth it. It was a little early for me to take since
I am just starting the tailcone but I thought it would ease some anxiety associated
with my non knowledge of composites. It did that and much more.
Great class, great rides in Dave's 10 and a free hat to boot.
Thanks again Dave,
Bill
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=214760#214760
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuselage before wings? |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
Thanks everyone for the responses.
Brian: Did Vans work with you on the center wing carry through???
Thanks,
Phil
________________________________
From: Douglas, Brian S [mailto:brian-douglas(at)uiowa.edu]
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 2:18 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuselage before wings?
That's the route I took and for nearly the same reason. It seemed like
I'd be done with the QB wings before I had time to save up for the
fuselage kit. On the other hand, there's lots of stuff to keep you busy
in the fuse kit while you save up for QB wings.
-Brian
Iowa City, IA
#40497
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 1:25 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuselage before wings?
Can anyone see a reason why I couldn't complete the fuse kit before the
wings?
I was planning on going with the wings next but with the economic
uncertainty ahead of us, I'm thinking a fuse kit might be a better
option.
If I purchase QB wings, I would probably be ready for the fuse purchase
in a few months. If I bought a fuse, I could keep busy for a longer
period of time (On meaningful projects) while the economy has more time
to recover. I could:
1) Finish the fuse kit.
2) Join it to the tail cone.
3) Fit the canopy area.
4) Run systems for fuel, static, control systems, etc.
5) Run wiring
6) Setup ELT's, etc, etc, etc.
The more I think about it, the more I think a fuse kit makes better
sense at this time. Especially if you're wanting to burn time on
meaningful tasks, instead of burning time waiting for the economy to
recover while your completed wings sit in the cradle.
Thoughts on doing a fuse kit before the wings???
Phil
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | plexiglass cleaning |
| From: | "greghale" <ghale5224(at)AOL.COM> |
OK I know I have probably done the bad deed, but I used a combination of masking
tape and duct tape to retain the plastic sheet on my windows while I was doing
some body work. You probably already know that the duct tape left globs of
adhesive behind when I tried removing it. Is there a product I can use to remove
the adhesive safely without destroying my windows and windshield. The duct
tape has been on the windows for almost a year.
Thanks...Greg
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=214784#214784
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)GMAIL.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: plexiglass cleaning |
Isopropyl alcohol, high purity, 90% or better.
On Mon, Nov 17, 2008 at 4:53 PM, greghale wrote:
>
> OK I know I have probably done the bad deed, but I used a combination of masking
tape and duct tape to retain the plastic sheet on my windows while I was doing
some body work. You probably already know that the duct tape left globs
of adhesive behind when I tried removing it. Is there a product I can use to
remove the adhesive safely without destroying my windows and windshield. The
duct tape has been on the windows for almost a year.
>
> Thanks...Greg
>
> --------
> Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
> www.nwacaptain.com
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=214784#214784
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)MSN.COM> |
| Subject: | plexiglass cleaning |
If denatured alcohol doesn't work get a plexiglass cleaner=2C it has some f
orm of petroleum distilates that microscopically clean craze lines from the
plexi glass and it might also remove the duct tape adhessive.
I have had no problems using the denatured alcohol=2C but maybe others can
chime in.
John G.> Subject: RV10-List: plexiglass cleaning> From: ghale5224(at)aol.com>
Date: Mon=2C 17 Nov 2008 15:53:07 -0800> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> > -->
RV10-List message posted by: "greghale" > > OK I know I
have probably done the bad deed=2C but I used a combination of masking tap
e and duct tape to retain the plastic sheet on my windows while I was doing
some body work. You probably already know that the duct tape left globs of
adhesive behind when I tried removing it. Is there a product I can use to
remove the adhesive safely without destroying my windows and windshield. Th
e duct tape has been on the windows for almost a year.> > Thanks...Greg> >
--------> Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH> www.nwacaptain.com> > > > > Read this t
opic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=214784#2
====================> > >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lee Otto" <lotto(at)ciembroidery.com> |
| Subject: | Rod Bowers Ram Air |
Can anyone who's installed Rod Bowers Ram Air on their IO-540 tell me if
they were able to do so with a forward facing sump or a simple elbow on the
stock sump to face forward without going to the expense of adding a full
cold air induction system? Also do you have a picture of your Ram Air
installation with the lower cowl off?
Best,
Lee Otto
Baggage and door.
lotto(at)ciembroidery.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | plexiglass cleaning |
Plexus
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 5:21 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: plexiglass cleaning
If denatured alcohol doesn't work get a plexiglass cleaner, it has some form
of petroleum distilates that microscopically clean craze lines from the
plexi glass and it might also remove the duct tape adhessive.
I have had no problems using the denatured alcohol, but maybe others can
chime in.
John G.
> Subject: RV10-List: plexiglass cleaning
> From: ghale5224(at)aol.com
> Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 15:53:07 -0800
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> OK I know I have probably done the bad deed, but I used a combination of
masking tape and duct tape to retain the plastic sheet on my windows while I
was doing some body work. You probably already know that the duct tape left
globs of adhesive behind when I tried removing it. Is there a product I can
use to remove the adhesive safely without destroying my windows and
windshield. The duct tape has been on the windows for almost a year.
>
> Thanks...Greg
>
> --------
> Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
> www.nwacaptain.com
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=214784#214784
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
>=================
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rivethead aero door pin install video |
| From: | "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net> |
Apparently the installation video that was on YouTube showing the installation
of the pins and catch block has been removed.
Does anyone have an alternative source for the video instructions? As several
posts have mentioned, no instructions come with the door pin equipment from Rivethead
Aero.
Thanks,
Tom Hanaway
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=214800#214800
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rod Bowers Ram Air |
I don't know the answer to your question, but a call to either Rod
himself @ (559) 972-6291 or Don Rivera @ Airflow Performance 864 576
4512 should provide you with whether an adapter is available. AFP has
and supplies a wide variety of elbow adapters, and Don will know which
will or won't fit the 540 sump and the AFP FI. They are both great and
easy guys to talk to, and won't BS you by trying to talk over your head.
Here's some pics of my installation:
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Final%20Assembly/slides/DSC06922.html
follow the 'next picture' links there should be about 8 more pictures
Deems
Lee Otto wrote:
> Can anyone who's installed Rod Bowers Ram Air on their IO-540 tell me
> if they were able to do so with a forward facing sump or a
> simple elbow on the stock sump to face forward without going to the
> expense of adding a full cold air induction system? Also do you have
> a picture of your Ram Air installation with the lower cowl off?
>
>
> Best,
>
>
>
> Lee Otto
>
> Baggage and door.
>
> lotto(at)ciembroidery.com
>
>
>
>
> *
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: plexiglass cleaning |
I would avoid denatured alcohol, as it contains methanol. Either
Isopropyl or as Tim suggested, kerosene are safe for plexi.
On Mon, Nov 17, 2008 at 5:21 PM, John Gonzalez wrote:
> If denatured alcohol doesn't work get a plexiglass cleaner, it has some form
> of petroleum distilates that microscopically clean craze lines from the
> plexi glass and it might also remove the duct tape adhessive.
>
> I have had no problems using the denatured alcohol, but maybe others can
> chime in.
>
> John G.
>
>> Subject: RV10-List: plexiglass cleaning
>> From: ghale5224(at)aol.com
>> Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 15:53:07 -0800
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>
>>
>> OK I know I have probably done the bad deed, but I used a combination of
>> masking tape and duct tape to retain the plastic sheet on my windows while I
>> was doing some body work. You probably already know that the duct tape left
>> globs of adhesive behind when I tried removing it. Is there a product I can
>> use to remove the adhesive safely without destroying my windows and
>> windshield. The duct tape has been on the windows for almost a year.
>>
>> Thanks...Greg
>>
>> --------
>> Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
>> www.nwacaptain.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=214784#214784
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
> >=================
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cloudvalley(at)COMCAST.NET |
| Subject: | Garmin 496 for sale |
Hello,
=C2- I am Brian Preston. My wife Ruth and I started building the RV-10 wi
th the tail section=C2-finished in a class with Mike Abel (Air MIke) =C2
-in Eugene. We have since sold it, and now own a certified aircraft until
our house sells, and will see what's out there at that time.
=C2-In the meantime, we have a Garmin 496 we bought=C2- five months ago
(used it only 8 times). We are selling it for $1895. Everything is with th
e unit that came in the box. It still looks new, and we=C2- put a screen
protector on it the first day we bought it. We love it but we got hooked by
a Garmin 696 at the AOPA EXPO in San Jose.
=C2-If anyone in the group is interested you can e-mail me or Ruth at clo
udvalley(at)comcast.net . We are in Eugene, Oregon. Our home phone is (531) 99
8-2755; my cell is (541) 520-7058.
Thank you.
Brian Preston
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | plexiglass cleaning |
Okay=2C it has been quite a number of years since my organic chemistry days
=2C but indeed denatured alcohol may have methanol added to the ethanol so
that it cannot be easily converted to drinkable ethanol=2C but basically me
thanol is just a primary alcohol containing only one carbon atom=2C four hy
drogen and one oxygen. Isopropyl alcohol has three carbon atoms=2C eight hy
drogens and one oxygen. Isopropyl comes in different purities=2C some with
higher water concentrations than others. One more distilled then other.I wo
uld think that ethanol=2C denatured alcohol=2C or high or low grade isoprop
yl would all be safe for plexi...at least that has been my experience with
my RV 10=2C all my RC airplanes and the plastic canopies on my Ravell and M
onogram plastic models as a kid. Has someone had a bad experience with meth
anol=2C not to be confused with methane...your spouse's gas after that rich
dinner. Thanks for bringing me back to my organic chemistry atom model bui
lding days in undergrad.Now I just build teeth and planes=2C what ever happ
ened to all that knowledge I once had...so sad! John G> Date: Mon=2C 17 Nov
Subject: Re: RV10-List: plexiglass cleaning> > --> RV10-List message poste
d by: "Kelly McMullen" > > I would avoid denatured alcoh
ol=2C as it contains methanol. Either> Isopropyl or as Tim suggested=2C ker
osene are safe for plexi.> > On Mon=2C Nov 17=2C 2008 at 5:21 PM=2C John Go
nzalez wrote:>> If denatured alcohol doesn't work
get a plexiglass cleaner=2C it has some form>> of petroleum distilates that
microscopically clean craze lines from the>> plexi glass and it might also
remove the duct tape adhessive.>>>> I have had no problems using the denat
ured alcohol=2C but maybe others can>> chime in.>>>> John G.>>>>> Subject:
RV10-List: plexiglass cleaning>>> From: ghale5224(at)aol.com>>> Date: Mon=2C 1
t message posted by: "greghale" >>>>>> OK I know I have
probably done the bad deed=2C but I used a combination of>>> masking tape a
nd duct tape to retain the plastic sheet on my windows while I>>> was doing
some body work. You probably already know that the duct tape left>>> globs
of adhesive behind when I tried removing it. Is there a product I can>>> u
se to remove the adhesive safely without destroying my windows and>>> winds
hield. The duct tape has been on the windows for almost a year.>>>>>> Thank
s...Greg>>>>>> -------->>> Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH>>> www.nwacaptain.com>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Read this topic online here:>>>>>> http://forums.matronics.co
m/viewtopic.php?p=214784#214784>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Archive Search &
Download=2C 7-Day Browse=2C Chat=2C FAQ=2C>> >=========
=========> > >
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage before wings? |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)AOL.COM> |
I bought the fuse kit first. Van's is easy to work with on it and said that the
option is becoming more and more popular. The center spar kit is aprrox $1300
and packs within the fuse kit.
1/8 inch toggle bolts inside standard automotive fuel line make perfect dummy wing
bolts for contruction. I would rather have the real bolts virgin for final
assembly anyway.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=214830#214830
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | What Members Are Saying... |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rod Bowers Ram Air |
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
Lee, we have the Rod Bower Ram Air installed on a 'standard' IO540, vertical draft
induction. There is an elbow available from Airflow Performance that Rod
sent us to try, these elbows will not work. They push the front of the intake
too far forward, and will not leave enough room for the cowl. We made a fiberglass
elbow that attaches to the throttle body in the standard vertical orientation,
then makes about a 100 degree turn to meet the ram air intake. Hopefully
the pictures attached show it well.
Keep in mind when we did our install it was with Rod's 'old' design, I have no
idea what needs to happen for his new design. We also had to shorten the front
of the ram air intake to make it work.
Our objective was to not modify the cowl to make the system work, we are using
a James Cowl, with the standard induction position, not the cold air induction
position.
I like the concept behind the system, Rod was nothing but helpful. I will admit
that after putting in dozens of hours making this work I did start to question
my sanity. Not flying yet, no proof it was, or was not worth it.
--------
RV-10 Quick Build
4 Partner Build - Finishing
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=214938#214938
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dscn104_119.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Hey Guys,
Since it's a little slow, I'll post some pictures of the last couple of weekends
of paint work. We went with acrylic enamel -- wish we'd used urethane, but
it's done now. This is in my back yard shop.
We decided to go simple and quick with the cowl pin on this one, and with the screw
head painted, it almost disappears, so we're pleased with it. I just looped
the end of the pin around, welded it, counter sunk it, and glassed in the
recessed area around the nut plate. One thing I did that others may question
(feel free) was to open up the ears on the hinge pin so that I can get the pin
in and out more easily. To do this, I took the hinge pin before cutting it to
length and flatted a place about two inches back from the tapered end, then
put the other end in my drill and fed the pin into the hinges as a reamer. Then
I cut off the excess flatted end, re tapered it and cut the pin to size --
it works great now. I got tired of trying to figure out which ears were binding,
or trying to sand down the pin itself.
After hearing others talk of trying to fill rivet heads, I decided to load up on
primer along the rivet lines. I'm using self etch primer on the bare aluminum,
then 2K epoxy primer to sand, so I loaded up on both on the rivet lines.
After sanding (carefully with a 5" random orbital sander) the rivets all but disappear
with final paint (three coats of white). We'll see if they work through
eventually after it's in flight, but for now it is really slick.
I need to have 60 degrees to shoot and it's been in the 30's lately, so for the
other wing and the fuse, I'll be trying to catch warmer days or wait until Spring.
I'll include one shot of how I suspended the wing -- on the spar end, it's a small
block and tackle, on the other it's left over pvc drain pipe on a hook in
the ceiling. The wing has enough mass that it doesn't swing when spraying it.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Prop is on, cowl almost finished, paint prep!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=214945#214945
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/wing5_103.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/wing3_463.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/wing2_158.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/white_pin2_192.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/white_hs_109.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/white_fiberglass1_164.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/white_cowl_366.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cloudvalley(at)comcast.net |
Hello again,
I also have an "Avionics Innovations" CD player and FM radio for sale. We h
ad it removed it from our 79 Grumman Tiger to install a=C2- GNS 430. It w
as installed new by our mechanic when he completely refurbished this plane
1o yrs ago. It works great and has not been used much. Asking $495 OBO. It
stil has the aluminum box made for installation of the unit in the panel.
c loudvalley(at)comcast.net =C2-is our e-mail. (541)998-2755- home phone; (5
41) 520-7058- cell.
Thank you. Brian Preston
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivethead aero door pin install video |
tom,
I make a similar part, and I'm slowly making you-tube install and
introduction type videos for all my stuff. the door guide video should be up
by early next week. in the meantime if I can help give me a shout.
steve
iflyrv10.com
716.579.5790
--------------------------------------------------
From: "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 8:07 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rivethead aero door pin install video
>
> Apparently the installation video that was on YouTube showing the
> installation of the pins and catch block has been removed.
>
> Does anyone have an alternative source for the video instructions? As
> several posts have mentioned, no instructions come with the door pin
> equipment from Rivethead Aero.
>
> Thanks,
> Tom Hanaway
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=214800#214800
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuselage before wings? |
| From: | "Douglas, Brian S" <brian-douglas(at)uiowa.edu> |
Yeah, just let them know what you're doing and they'll pack it in with
the rest of the fuselage. As mentioned it's going to cost you an extra
$1,300 or so but then you get to subtract that back out on the wing kit.
-Brian
Iowa City, IA
#40497
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 4:32 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuselage before wings?
Thanks everyone for the responses.
Brian: Did Vans work with you on the center wing carry through???
Thanks,
Phil
________________________________
From: Douglas, Brian S [mailto:brian-douglas(at)uiowa.edu]
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 2:18 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuselage before wings?
That's the route I took and for nearly the same reason. It seemed like
I'd be done with the QB wings before I had time to save up for the
fuselage kit. On the other hand, there's lots of stuff to keep you busy
in the fuse kit while you save up for QB wings.
-Brian
Iowa City, IA
#40497
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 1:25 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuselage before wings?
Can anyone see a reason why I couldn't complete the fuse kit before the
wings?
I was planning on going with the wings next but with the economic
uncertainty ahead of us, I'm thinking a fuse kit might be a better
option.
If I purchase QB wings, I would probably be ready for the fuse purchase
in a few months. If I bought a fuse, I could keep busy for a longer
period of time (On meaningful projects) while the economy has more time
to recover. I could:
1) Finish the fuse kit.
2) Join it to the tail cone.
3) Fit the canopy area.
4) Run systems for fuel, static, control systems, etc.
5) Run wiring
6) Setup ELT's, etc, etc, etc.
The more I think about it, the more I think a fuse kit makes better
sense at this time. Especially if you're wanting to burn time on
meaningful tasks, instead of burning time waiting for the economy to
recover while your completed wings sit in the cradle.
Thoughts on doing a fuse kit before the wings???
Phil
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
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ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics
.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <n212pj(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Dave Saylor / Aircrafters / Composite Grade School |
I agree with Les, the class was a great combination of
composite-for-the-beginner instruction and RV-10 fiberglass component
installation. We covered the cabin top, doors, windows, wheel pants, tips,
etc. And, of course, got to go flying in his -10, which was a treat. Met
some very fine folks in the process, even a couple building in the Seattle
area, who have promised to make the next NW RV-10 dinner this coming spring.
I will try to get a write up and some pictures of the cabin preparation onto
my web site. It was worth the entire cost of the trip just to watch them do
the preparation and final fitting of the cabin top.
Dave and his crew are great folk. Highly recommend the course.
John Jessen
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 8:14 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Dave Saylor / Aircrafters / Composite Grade School
Hi
Noting JC's lament about the list being quiet, I thought I would try to fix
that.
Over the week end I attended Dave Saylors composite class in Watsonville Ca.
The weather was great and the instruction invaluable. It was very much a
hands on course and Dave spoke about the materials we would be using on the
-10. More importantly, he spoke about the various fibreglass components we
would be working on and provided specific guidance on what to do.
Jeff Carpenter "lent" his fuse / canopy to the class and we watch how Chuy
(sp?) and Harold fit the canopy in two (count 'em two) tries. Once you
understand the geometry and the process, it doesn't seem all that difficult.
Dave also spoke on how to fit the doors as well as the windows including how
to avoid a bulge where the window is glassed in near the front door frame at
the tip of the fuse.
To boot, I got to meet a number of builders and see John Jansen again. If
you are a fibreglass neophyte or new to the 10, the course is well worth the
trip.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643 - some assembly required.
PS: As a look at the falling snow, I wish I was back in California...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rivethead aero door pin install video |
| From: | "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net> |
Thanks Steve.
I'll look for it in the next few weeks.
Given the lack of responsiveness of rivethead aero, I would have purchased from
you but this is an order I placed and received awhile back before I knew you
were in the marketplace.
Tom
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=215000#215000
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <n212pj(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dave Saylor / Aircrafters / Composite Grade School |
Here's one shot captured off a video of the RV-10 top being installed at
Dave's seminar this past weekend. That was the first of two fits. All that
was needed after this was to grind off some high spots, trim a couple of
other spots and the install was essentially done. It does appear to require
a minimum of two people, although I'm sure many have done it solo.
Dave is in the red shirt. Jeff Carpenter, whose cabin top this is, is to
the right making sure he still has a finger tip left after if got between
the top and the fuselage.
John Jessen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dave Saylor / Aircrafters / Composite Grade School |
I attended the previous class and I think I had it on and off about 15 times
before finally calling it good. Took all of a Saturday and a few followup
hours on Sunday. The smoothing out work is never done you just have to call
it quits eventually and live with it. Anyone who tells you differently is
high on the epoxy fumes so I wouldn't trust them.
-Ben
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2008 2:10 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Dave Saylor / Aircrafters / Composite Grade
School
Here's one shot captured off a video of the RV-10 top being installed at
Dave's seminar this past weekend. That was the first of two fits. All that
was needed after this was to grind off some high spots, trim a couple of
other spots and the install was essentially done. It does appear to require
a minimum of two people, although I'm sure many have done it solo.
Dave is in the red shirt. Jeff Carpenter, whose cabin top this is, is to
the right making sure he still has a finger tip left after if got between
the top and the fuselage.
John Jessen
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
database 3623 (20081118) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dave Saylor / Aircrafters / Composite Grade School |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Significant work is being performed at Craig Roberts paint shop to
correct build irregularities in Dan Benua's finished and flying
aircraft. Dan and Sun are over in Hawaii for a week of sunshine. Craig
won Grand Champion at Copperstate '08 with a drop dead gorgeous Legacy
2000.
How goes you? I figured Les butchered your name and got my answer when
you piped up today.
Are you going to the EAA 105 Christmas Dinner at the Hickman's ?
John
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of John Jessen
Sent: Tue 11/18/2008 2:09 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Dave Saylor / Aircrafters / Composite Grade
School
Here's one shot captured off a video of the RV-10 top being installed at
Dave's seminar this past weekend. That was the first of two fits. All
that
was needed after this was to grind off some high spots, trim a couple of
other spots and the install was essentially done. It does appear to
require
a minimum of two people, although I'm sure many have done it solo.
Dave is in the red shirt. Jeff Carpenter, whose cabin top this is, is
to
the right making sure he still has a finger tip left after if got
between
the top and the fuselage.
John Jessen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Dave Saylor / Aircrafters / Composite Grade School |
John
I just used the CanadiaN spelling .
Cheers
Les
Sent from my iPhone
On 18-Nov-08, at 5:31 PM, John Cox wrote:
>
> Significant work is being performed at Craig Roberts paint shop to
> correct build irregularities in Dan Benua's finished and flying
> aircraft. Dan and Sun are over in Hawaii for a week of sunshine.
> Craig won Grand Champion at Copperstate '08 with a drop dead
> gorgeous Legacy 2000.
>
> How goes you? I figured Les butchered your name and got my answer
> when you piped up today.
>
> Are you going to the EAA 105 Christmas Dinner at the Hickman's ?
>
> John
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of John Jessen
> Sent: Tue 11/18/2008 2:09 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Dave Saylor / Aircrafters / Composite
> Grade School
>
> Here's one shot captured off a video of the RV-10 top being
> installed at
> Dave's seminar this past weekend. That was the first of two fits.
> All that
> was needed after this was to grind off some high spots, trim a
> couple of
> other spots and the install was essentially done. It does appear to
> require
> a minimum of two people, although I'm sure many have done it solo.
>
> Dave is in the red shirt. Jeff Carpenter, whose cabin top this is,
> is to
> the right making sure he still has a finger tip left after if got
> between
> the top and the fuselage.
>
> John Jessen
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dave Saylor / Aircrafters / Composite Grade School |
Can some one post the video of Dave's class to give us some in-site to what
we want to attend.
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2008 4:31 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Dave Saylor / Aircrafters / Composite Grade
School
Significant work is being performed at Craig Roberts paint shop to correct
build irregularities in Dan Benua's finished and flying aircraft. Dan and
Sun are over in Hawaii for a week of sunshine. Craig won Grand Champion at
Copperstate '08 with a drop dead gorgeous Legacy 2000.
How goes you? I figured Les butchered your name and got my answer when you
piped up today.
Are you going to the EAA 105 Christmas Dinner at the Hickman's ?
John
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of John Jessen
Sent: Tue 11/18/2008 2:09 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Dave Saylor / Aircrafters / Composite Grade
School
Here's one shot captured off a video of the RV-10 top being installed at
Dave's seminar this past weekend. That was the first of two fits. All that
was needed after this was to grind off some high spots, trim a couple of
other spots and the install was essentially done. It does appear to require
a minimum of two people, although I'm sure many have done it solo.
Dave is in the red shirt. Jeff Carpenter, whose cabin top this is, is to
the right making sure he still has a finger tip left after if got between
the top and the fuselage.
John Jessen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Barrett" <2thman(at)cablespeed.com> |
| Subject: | FW: Cowl attachments |
I have posted some new pages on the Carbinge website showing Art Bertolina's
beautiful Lancair IV cowling assembled with Carbinge and Carbinge keepers.
See this URL:
http://carbinge.com/cowl_attach.htm
Additionally there is a page that explains how Art achieved this result:
http://carbinge.com/Schematic%20of%20complete%20cowl%20attachment.htm
Regards,
John Barrett, CEO
Leading Edge Composites
PO Box 428
Port Hadlock, WA 98339
www.carbinge.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <n212pj(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dave Saylor / Aircrafters / Composite Grade School |
Forgot the picture....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Behind By 21% - Advertising May Be Needed...? |
Dear Listers,
The percentage of people making a Contribution to support the Lists this year is
currently lagging behind last year by approximately 21%! I'm hoping that everyone
is just waiting until the last minute to show their support... ;-)
Please remember that it is solely your direct Contributions that keep these Lists
up and running and most importantly - AD FREE! If the members don't want to
support the Lists directly, then I will likely have to start adding advertisements
to offset the costs of running the Lists. But I *really* don't want to
have to start doing that. I really like the non-commercial atmosphere here and
I think that a lot of the members appreciate that too.
Please take a moment to make a Contribution today in support of the continued ad-free
operation of all these Lists:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
I want to send out a word of appreciation to all of the members that have already
made their generous Contribution to support the Lists! Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Behind By 21% - Advertising May Be Needed...? |
| From: | "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net> |
Matt,
Curiosity question since I've already made my contribution and really appreciate
the ad free nature of the RV forums.
1. Is the total # of subscribers down by any percentage?
2. Do you have a breakdown by forums?
a. membership compared to last year?
b. percentage of donation (up or down per forum) compared to last year.
Thanks,
Tom Hanaway
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=215303#215303
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sheldon Olesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net> |
| Subject: | Control surface balance |
I've got my wings on and hopefully the tail will go on this
weekend. I'm puzzled over the lack of information on the balancing
of the control surfaces. Other than the max/min deflection numbers
and what I assume are the torque values in the final assembly
section I found nothing that tells me how to determine if the
flutter prone surfaces are properly balanced. When I built my Long-
EZ, Burt Rutan was adamant about how much each control surface
should weigh and how to measure if it was in spec for balance. This
airplane is even faster and no mention of this subject. Any help or
illumination would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Sheldon Olesen
N475PV -- not a project for long
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Control surface balance |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
I am at work so I can't get the page # but in the 8.5" x 11" pages you received
with the rest of the plans, there is a page with a table that gives you the specific
values for balancing your surfaces.
The info you are asking about is in VAN's documentation, you just have to scrounge
around. If I recall, look just before or just after where the check out procedures
are documented.
You should also be able to find this reference in a previous thread probably about
3 months ago when Tim asked for the values. Come to thing of it, he may have
them posted now on his site also.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=215362#215362
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Control surface balance |
| From: | "eagerlee" <eagerlee(at)comcast.net> |
I think there is a Vans Publication that deals with finishing and first flight
checks. The maximums are published for all the control surfaces.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=215424#215424
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
Has anyone put the Avidyne TAS600 traffic system with the dual Antenna's in
a RV-10?
Where did you locate the Antenna's and where did you place the processor?
Rob Hickman
N402RH RV-10 (Flying again with all new Cylinders)
**************One site has it all. Your email accounts, your social networks,
and the things you love. Try the new AOL.com
%26icid=aolcom40vanity%26ncid=emlcntaolcom00000001)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Mid Fuse Wing Attachment Spar Spacers |
I am finishing the construction of the mid-fuse -- the last gasps of Section
29, which seems to be longest section in the whole building process. =C2
-This section calls for 4 spacers to be cut from AT6-058-5/16 at a length
of 1-11/16" each. =C2-The only portion of this material I can find in the
fuse kit is listed on the inventory sheet as being used for "flap push rods"
, and is only 9 inches long. =C2-I haven't found a reference for this mate
rial in the wings manual, so I am wondering if the inventory description is
an error, or if the 9 inches provided is enough for both requirements. =C2
-I used some of this same material (though nor sure WHERE I found it) =C2
-for the W-1031 aileron bell crank spacers, but I don't remember whether t
here was any more left from which to fabricate the spar spacers. =C2-Does
anyone remember having trouble finding this material or whether it might hav
e been missing from the kit?
Jim Gilmore
#40317
legacy fuse almost completed and more than ready to attach tail cone! =C2
-=C2-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mid Fuse Wing Attachment Spar Spacers |
I was short one of these and needed Van's to send me another one. They
told me I was the only one that had this problem, guess now it=99s
both of us!!
Pascal
From: jfg(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 5:50 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Mid Fuse Wing Attachment Spar Spacers
I am finishing the construction of the mid-fuse -- the last gasps of
Section 29, which seems to be longest section in the whole building
process. This section calls for 4 spacers to be cut from AT6-058-5/16
at a length of 1-11/16" each. The only portion of this material I can
find in the fuse kit is listed on the inventory sheet as being used for
"flap push rods", and is only 9 inches long. I haven't found a
reference for this material in the wings manual, so I am wondering if
the inventory description is an error, or if the 9 inches provided is
enough for both requirements. I used some of this same material (though
nor sure WHERE I found it) for the W-1031 aileron bell crank spacers,
but I don't remember whether there was any more left from which to
fabricate the spar spacers. Does anyone remember having trouble finding
this material or whether it might have been missing from the kit?
Jim Gilmore
#40317
legacy fuse almost completed and more than ready to attach tail cone!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Avidyne Traffic |
Well, Rob, the antennae are in place!
One is on top centerline just aft of the thick part of the cabin top
for structural reasons per Vans. That means no other antennae up
there. Rats!
One is on the belly just forward of spar.
Two GPS antennae are just aft of firewall and forward of windscreen,
com antennae are on belly aft of door.
Nav antennae ore in wing tips.
Processor is on a spanwise shelf between the longerons immediately
behind the baggage compartment. A dedicated encoder is right beside it
- saves a lot of wiring that way.
Mounted engine today. W00T!
'Bout time something visible got done!
John Ackerman N8863
On Nov 20, 2008, at 6:42 PM, RobHickman(at)aol.com wrote:
> Has anyone put the Avidyne TAS600 traffic system with the dual
> Antenna's in a RV-10?
>
> Where did you locate the Antenna's and where did you place the
> processor?
>
> Rob Hickman
> N402RH RV-10 (Flying again with all new Cylinders)
>
>
> One site has it all. Your email accounts, your social networks, and
> the things you love. Try t6ncid=emlcntaolcom00000001">AOL.com today!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Plexiglass Scratch Repair... |
Dear Listers,
During the fitting of the Plexiglass canopy on my RV-8, I managed to put some pretty
disheartening scratches in the windscreen section. You can see from the
pictures that they looked pretty bad. A call to Van's revealed that a replacement
canopy would be $640 + $250 shipping to California! Ack.
So what to do... A bit of surfing and I found this "Scratch Off" windshield repair
kit for $35 on the Aircraft Spruce web site:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/scratchoff.php
Frankly, it just seemed too good to be true. Nothing for $35 could be that "magic"
I thought, but what did I have to lose at this point....
Well, the kit arrived yesterday and I decided to give it a try tonight. In a word:
WOW! In about 2 hours the windscreen looked as good as new - no kidding
- AS GOOD AS NEW! The pictures really don't do the repair justice. It looks
better in person.
There are basically two sponges in the kit with four decreasingly porous pastes.
You just put some of the first paste on the sponge and buff it in with a drill
at 1200 RPM or less. Then you wash everything down good including the sponge
and windshield with warm water. Then you use the next finer paste and repeat
the process. Etc, etc, until you've used the 4th paste that is kind of like
car wax.
Frankly, the scratches were gone after the first application of paste - I started
at #2 based on the instructions and the "observed severity" of the scratch
depth.
So, the bottom line is, if you've got scuffs or mild scratches in your Plexiglass
buy this repair kit. It works!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
Given the current state of the economy and recent experiences of Direct2 and several
other vendors doing the old take the money and run ploy... I'm not about
to risk many thousands of dollars to any seller without participation of a known
quantity third party.
I've searched through the archives and have read up on chatter regarding escrow
for avionics purchases. Has anyone actually used escrow for avionics transactions
out there? AOPA would seem to be a good first choice (I'll check). I've also
seen Escrow.com mentioned, but anything with a .com in the name has me nervous.
Maybe there are other well known escrow outfits to consider?
Wish I would have done this previously for both my engine and prop. The engine
transaction fortunately worked out okay, but the my first (used) prop purchase
did not and I got to buy it twice. Get it in writing and never trust that a mechanic
has done AD homework for you. Lesson learned and school's out.
Thanks in advance for any responses.
Jay
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Behind By 21% - Advertising May Be Needed...? |
| From: | "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
Matt,
What sort of contribution amount are you looking for per person? I may be shot,
but ads never bothered me unless they're the kind that float across the page.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=215501#215501
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Avidyne Traffic |
Rob,
Yes I have the Avidyne traffic system installed and I talked to their
engineer several times about antenna placement. Based on the manual and
talking to the engineer the best place for placement is for the top
antenna to be as far forward on the canopy so that it has a clear view
of the sky area above and the bottom antenna offset from this antenna
towards the rear with no obstructions, such as the landing gear blocking
it's view, so it has a clear view below.
When I was installing mine Toni at Accuracy hadn't yet developed his
overhead console and I was concerned about the wiring that would have to
be run up above the front seat area that I would have to somehow hide.
So I talked to their engineer about putting the top antenna to the rear
just above the battery box area and the bottom one far forward ahead of
the landing gear. Another issue was the grounding plane that was
necessary and putting it on the fiberglass canopy was a concern,
however T Townsend put his there and made a grounding plane to put it
on. I have some photos from him on what he did if you want them. I ended
up later getting Toni's overhead console so I could have gone up there
with the antenna after all.
Anyway with the grounding plane issue and the concerns for wires hanging
down from overhead I went with my install and it's working great, I'm
sure you've read this, but the antenna wire length that is necessary is
very critical, based on what they told me so be aware of that. I can't
remember exactly but it seems like there had to be two runs of something
like 26' ? I have the control unit installed on the floor in the rear of
the baggage wall just to the right side of the battery. That worked very
well for ease of access and also with the rear antenna almost directly
above made it easy for that antenna connection. If you want ant photos
of this install let me know.
One mistake we made, and I'm sure you probably wouldn't, it's necessary
to run a wire from your transponder back to the control unit so that the
control unit can isolate your transponder signal and not paint it as a
target. We somehow missed that page and had to run it later down through
the tunnel.
Anyway I've been very happy with the unit once I figure out how it
operates. You know I had installed in a Baron I had the BF Goodrich
traffic system. I had it installed when it very first came out, which
was maybe 10 years ago?, and I paid, with installation, nearly $40,000
back then so when I got this unit, which works just as well if not
better I was really happy about the price comparison. When I bought my
Avidye it was retailing for $10,000 and I think I ended up buying it for
$7300 so I felt like I got a steal in comparison, although that's still
a lot of money.
I also bought the optional remote display unit, I think it was $900,
which I would strongly recommend. You can see the traffic on the
displays and it shows relative position and height above or below and
rounded distance away but the remote display show the actually bearing
from you and distances with 10th of a mile included, i.e. 3.6 not 4.
Hope this is of help to you.
Wayne Edgerton N602WT 210 hrs
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
Subject: Avidyne Traffic
Has anyone put the Avidyne TAS600 traffic system with the dual
Antenna's in
a RV-10?
Where did you locate the Antenna's and where did you place the
processor?
Rob Hickman
N402RH RV-10 (Flying again with all new Cylinders)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "SteinAir, Inc." <stein(at)steinair.com> |
That's a pretty easy thing to do, and in fact something that shops have done
in the past. I know we've done that more than once. However, if you find
yourself a good and well respected avionics shop, you'll find that the top
notch guys actually don't take your money up front any more (since the
Chelton/D2A debacle that cost people dearly). Anyway, it's not all that
uncommon to use some sort of escrow service, but in the end you'll find that
it's not cheap - the fees can be quite high. The better deal is to order
your avionics from someone who won't charge you until they are ready to
ship...which there are a number of shops that do business that way.
My 2 cents as usual.
Cheers,
Stein
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jay Brinkmeyer
>Sent: Friday, November 21, 2008 3:46 AM
>To: RV10
>Subject: RV10-List: avionics escrow
>
>
>Given the current state of the economy and recent experiences of
>Direct2 and several other vendors doing the old take the money and
>run ploy... I'm not about to risk many thousands of dollars to any
>seller without participation of a known quantity third party.
>
>I've searched through the archives and have read up on chatter
>regarding escrow for avionics purchases. Has anyone actually used
>escrow for avionics transactions out there? AOPA would seem to be
>a good first choice (I'll check). I've also seen Escrow.com
>mentioned, but anything with a .com in the name has me nervous.
>Maybe there are other well known escrow outfits to consider?
>
>Wish I would have done this previously for both my engine and
>prop. The engine transaction fortunately worked out okay, but the
>my first (used) prop purchase did not and I got to buy it twice.
>Get it in writing and never trust that a mechanic has done AD
>homework for you. Lesson learned and school's out.
>
>Thanks in advance for any responses.
>
>Jay
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Behind By 21% - Advertising May Be Needed...? |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> OK, I'll bend the rules.......Ditto, although I found a free gift that
> I could use. I think of all the time money this list and Tim's and
> others' build sites save me, allowing me to make fewer(or different)
> mistakes.
Plus it is cheaper than most aviation magazine subscriptions and
IMHO I get more out of the mailing lists than the magazines most months.
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ KR-2 Builder N770DJ
http://deej.net/sportsman/ http://deej.net/kr-2/
"Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an
airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 2005
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: avionics escrow |
| From: | "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
AIC Title (AOPA Member Services) said they will handle two Avionics vendors transactions for $250 total. That doesn't seem too much to pay for peace of mind. http://aictitle.com/
I'm not yet committed down this path and am still gathering data, but it looks
promising. Maybe I'm being too paranoid, but once burned twice shy.
Jay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=215547#215547
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Control surface balance |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
Sheldon,
The specs are on page 2 "Flight Controls" of the RV-10 "Final Inspection and Flight
Tests".
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=215551#215551
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <n212pj(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | How many kits sold thus far? |
Anyone up-to-date on how many kits have been sold thus far? I'm updating
the stats on my web site, adding a GlaStar section, and getting the shop
ready to begin the RV-10 wings, finally.
John Jessen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How many kits sold thus far? |
you're website was invaluable when I started the project, glad to see your
moving on to the wings after your break.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "John Jessen" <n212pj(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, November 21, 2008 11:15 AM
Subject: RV10-List: How many kits sold thus far?
>
> Anyone up-to-date on how many kits have been sold thus far? I'm updating
> the stats on my web site, adding a GlaStar section, and getting the shop
> ready to begin the RV-10 wings, finally.
>
> John Jessen
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | How many kits sold thus far? |
I AM SERIAL NUMBER 864
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Friday, November 21, 2008 11:16 AM
Subject: RV10-List: How many kits sold thus far?
Anyone up-to-date on how many kits have been sold thus far? I'm updating
the stats on my web site, adding a GlaStar section, and getting the shop
ready to begin the RV-10 wings, finally.
John Jessen
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | How many kits sold thus far? |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
As soon as Scott Gustafson identifies the Pro Built serial number of
Steve Raddatz shop that he purchased, I will update your records. There
is also a Super RV-10 coming out of Medford, OR.
John Cox
#600
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins
Sent: Friday, November 21, 2008 11:37 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: How many kits sold thus far?
I AM SERIAL NUMBER 864
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Friday, November 21, 2008 11:16 AM
Subject: RV10-List: How many kits sold thus far?
Anyone up-to-date on how many kits have been sold thus far? I'm
updating
the stats on my web site, adding a GlaStar section, and getting the shop
ready to begin the RV-10 wings, finally.
John Jessen
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | How many kits sold thus far? |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
What's a Super RV-10?
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Friday, November 21, 2008 2:45 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: How many kits sold thus far?
As soon as Scott Gustafson identifies the Pro Built serial number of
Steve Raddatz shop that he purchased, I will update your records. There
is also a Super RV-10 coming out of Medford, OR.
John Cox
#600
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins
Sent: Friday, November 21, 2008 11:37 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: How many kits sold thus far?
I AM SERIAL NUMBER 864
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Friday, November 21, 2008 11:16 AM
Subject: RV10-List: How many kits sold thus far?
Anyone up-to-date on how many kits have been sold thus far? I'm
updating
the stats on my web site, adding a GlaStar section, and getting the shop
ready to begin the RV-10 wings, finally.
John Jessen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How many kits sold thus far? |
I believe that RV-10 that's in Medford belongs to ShowPlanes
http://www.showplanes.com/ click on their projects and you will se what
they are doing. They've made modifications to the cowl ( a streamline
'turtleback' and a new cowl, they also made some changes to the door
mostly cosmetic). They' bee very sucessful in their fstback kit for the
RV-8, and their flap position controller.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
John Cox wrote:
>
> As soon as Scott Gustafson identifies the Pro Built serial number of
> Steve Raddatz shop that he purchased, I will update your records. There
> is also a Super RV-10 coming out of Medford, OR.
>
> John Cox
> #600
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins
> Sent: Friday, November 21, 2008 11:37 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: How many kits sold thus far?
>
>
> I AM SERIAL NUMBER 864
>
> John G. Cumins
> President
>
> JC'S Interactive Systems
> 2499 B1 Martin Rd
> Fairfield Ca 94533
> 707-425-7100
> 707-425-7576 Fax
>
> Your Total Technology Solution Provider
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
> Sent: Friday, November 21, 2008 11:16 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: How many kits sold thus far?
>
>
> Anyone up-to-date on how many kits have been sold thus far? I'm
> updating
> the stats on my web site, adding a GlaStar section, and getting the shop
> ready to begin the RV-10 wings, finally.
>
> John Jessen
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How many kits sold thus far? |
I've got 866, but that is from June purchase, so must be up a few from
that now.
John Cumins wrote:
>
> I AM SERIAL NUMBER 864
>
> John G. Cumins
> President
>
> JC'S Interactive Systems
> 2499 B1 Martin Rd
> Fairfield Ca 94533
> 707-425-7100
> 707-425-7576 Fax
>
> Your Total Technology Solution Provider
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
> Sent: Friday, November 21, 2008 11:16 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: How many kits sold thus far?
>
>
> Anyone up-to-date on how many kits have been sold thus far? I'm updating
> the stats on my web site, adding a GlaStar section, and getting the shop
> ready to begin the RV-10 wings, finally.
>
> John Jessen
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Buy from SteinAir or Stark Avionics and don't worry about it. They have
been around a long time, sold thousands of units, and never stiffed anyone.
Steinair sent me about $10,000 in avionics before they billed me for it
while swapping out some units. Never a doubt. They are a known quantity!
Have no idea if their financials are good or not but their word is gold in
the RV community.
Of course that's easy to say now ;-)
Bill S
7a Finishing
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jay Brinkmeyer
Sent: Friday, November 21, 2008 3:46 AM
Subject: RV10-List: avionics escrow
-->
Given the current state of the economy and recent experiences of Direct2 and
several other vendors doing the old take the money and run ploy... I'm not
about to risk many thousands of dollars to any seller without participation
of a known quantity third party.
I've searched through the archives and have read up on chatter regarding
escrow for avionics purchases. Has anyone actually used escrow for avionics
transactions out there? AOPA would seem to be a good first choice (I'll
check). I've also seen Escrow.com mentioned, but anything with a .com in the
name has me nervous. Maybe there are other well known escrow outfits to
consider?
Wish I would have done this previously for both my engine and prop. The
engine transaction fortunately worked out okay, but the my first (used) prop
purchase did not and I got to buy it twice. Get it in writing and never
trust that a mechanic has done AD homework for you. Lesson learned and
school's out.
Thanks in advance for any responses.
Jay
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Behind By 21% - Advertising May Be Needed...? |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
There is no single better bang for the buck during the build than this list. Interestingly
there are also a number of us finished with the build and flying
that also find value.
I've sent mine in, have you?
Bob RV-10 N442PM (flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=215631#215631
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Dear Listers,
Each year at the end of the List Fund Raiser, I post a message acknowledging everyone
that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its sort
of my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation
for the Lists.
Won't you take a moment and assure that your name is on that List of Contributors
(LOC)? As a number of members have pointed out over the years, the List seems
at least - if not a whole lot more - valuable as a building/flying/recreating/entertainment
tool as your typical magazine subscription!
Please take minute and assure that your name is on this year's LOC! Show others
that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is
fast and easy using your Credit card or Paypal on the Secure Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by popping a personal check in the mail to:
Matronics Email Lists
c/o Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551-0347
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps
these Lists going and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about
how the Lists have helped you!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Trick for fiber glassing compound curves |
Make vinyl acetate templates(not shown) Material is see through and you can
trace your tape lines onto the material. Trace that onto thick plastic dro
p cloth material. Use same material for a backing piece Place the appropria
te size of fiberglass cloth on the backing piece and squegee resin into the
cloth=2C lay the other piece with the tracing on top and use a clean squeg
ee to join the top plastic drop cloth to the sandwich. Cut the shapes with
a roller blade. Peel back the backing plastic and transfer to the plane. On
ce on the plane=2C remove the top layer. Use the brush to work the edge of
the cloth to the tape line. Finish that edge with a monjet syringe with mic
ro resin mix=2C do this before it is all set. Sooner the better as it penet
rates into the cloth better. This makes sanding the edge easier and keeps t
he cloth fibers intact. All this give a clean edge=2C the shapes are correc
t and the transfer is simple=2C and clean with minimal manipulation of the
fiberglass. JOhn G 409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November 02, 2008 - Present
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-du