RV8-Archive.digest.vol-am
July 20, 2008 - March 01, 2009
808PS
> From: speed3guy(at)comcast.net
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV8-List: RV-8 "Tall-man" Option...
> Date: Sun=2C 20 Jul 2008 11:37:41 -0600
>
>
> Matt=2C
>
> The "Tall-man" option is exactly what you want then. All it is=2C is a
> different seat back weldment that lets the seat back recline further than
> stock. The bottom of the seat remains in the standard location.
>
> Guy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
> Sent: Sunday=2C July 20=2C 2008 10:55 AM
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 "Tall-man" Option...
>
>
>
> Fellow Listers=2C
>
> What exactly does the RV-8 "Tall-man" option entail? What modifications
are
> made to the seat=2C weldment=2C etc? I'm not finding any mention of it o
n the
> plans. If you order the Tall-man option with the QB kit=2C can you opt f
or
> the "Regular-man" option at build time?
>
> Knowing nothing about what it actually is=2C I assume it pushes the weldm
ent
> back some allowing you to mount the pilot's seat further aft. While I am
a
> "Tall-man"=2C my preference would actually be to increase the pilot's sea
t
> back recline amount by moving the weldment back=2C but leaving the bottom
of
> the seat in the normal position. Is this possible?
>
> Does anyone have any detailed pictures of what the Tall-man option looks
> like and specifically how it differs from the Regular-man option?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 "Tall-man" Option... |
| From: | "N38CW" <billsettle(at)bellsouth.net> |
I have been considering this as well and I am 5' 11" also. I have only sat in
one -8 and that was Van's demo. I have no problems with the leg room, but it
seemed to me that I was sitting a little too close to the instrument panel. I
had emailed Van's and asked what the difference was, and the only response I
got was that they did not recommend the tall pilot option for anyone less than
6' 5".
--------
Bill Settle
RV-8 Wings (Still)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194036#194036
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 "Tall-man" Option... |
I'm 6'1" and had no problems with the standard seating. Do your passenger a
favor and stay with the standard seat.
--
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
On Sun, Jul 20, 2008 at 9:04 PM, N38CW wrote:
>
> I have been considering this as well and I am 5' 11" also. I have only sat
> in one -8 and that was Van's demo. I have no problems with the leg room,
> but it seemed to me that I was sitting a little too close to the instrument
> panel. I had emailed Van's and asked what the difference was, and the only
> response I got was that they did not recommend the tall pilot option for
> anyone less than 6' 5".
>
> --------
> Bill Settle
> RV-8 Wings (Still)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194036#194036
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Schad" <schad(at)cooke.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 "Tall-man" Option... |
I'm 6'4" and have the tall man option and like it a lot. My wife
doesn't because it pushes the seat back into her face. For me it is a
good thing. Tom Schad N552TX
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Bowen
To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2008 8:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Re: RV-8 "Tall-man" Option...
I'm 6'1" and had no problems with the standard seating. Do your
passenger a favor and stay with the standard seat.
--
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
On Sun, Jul 20, 2008 at 9:04 PM, N38CW
wrote:
I have been considering this as well and I am 5' 11" also. I have
only sat in one -8 and that was Van's demo. I have no problems with the
leg room, but it seemed to me that I was sitting a little too close to
the instrument panel. I had emailed Van's and asked what the difference
was, and the only response I got was that they did not recommend the
tall pilot option for anyone less than 6' 5".
--------
Bill Settle
RV-8 Wings (Still)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194036#194036
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 "Tall-man" Option... |
| From: | "N38CW" <billsettle(at)bellsouth.net> |
I was afraid there might be too much of a trade off.
[quote="Larry Bowen"]I'm 6'1" and had no problems with the standard seating. Do
your passenger a favor and stay with the standard seat.
--
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com (http://BowenAero.com)
On Sun, Jul 20, 2008 at 9:04 PM, N38CW wrote:
>
> I have been considering this as well and I am 5' 11" also. I have only sat
in one -8 and that was Van's demo. I have no problems with the leg room, but
it seemed to me that I was sitting a little too close to the instrument panel.
I had emailed Van's and asked what the difference was, and the only response
I got was that they did not recommend the tall pilot option for anyone less than
6' 5".
>
> --------
> Bill Settle
> RV-8 Wings (Still)
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194036#194036 (http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194036#194036)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [b]
--------
Bill Settle
RV-8 Wings (Still)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194073#194073
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 07/20/08 |
Hi Matt-
I'm the 6' 5" guy. I fit with the std seats, but fit much better with the
mod. IIRC, it moves the cross member aft 1 1/2". My wife is 5' 10" and
fits fine in the back seat. I will be able to fly from the rear seat with
the mod, but I wouldn't want to do it for very long. Cutting down (or
otherwise modding) the rear seat throttle will be pretty much required to
clear a tall person's knee, unless perhaps they are very much skinnier than
I.
One caveat: The original 'tall man' weldment moves the cross member
straight back without lowering it at all. The original plans made no
mention of the need to make the back of the rear seat taller. I forget the
dimension, but it is on the order of 3/4". Without that mod, the original
design seat back will just pass under the weldment. When making the taller
seat, just stretch the seat back sheet metal to match the increase in
dimension of the vertical members.
glen matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
> Fellow Listers,
>
> What exactly does the RV-8 "Tall-man" option entail? What modifications
are made
> to the seat, weldment, etc? I'm not finding any mention of it on the
plans.
> If you order the Tall-man option with the QB kit, can you opt for the
"Regular-man"
> option at build time?
>
> Knowing nothing about what it actually is, I assume it pushes the
weldment back
> some allowing you to mount the pilot's seat further aft. While I am a
"Tall-man",
> my preference would actually be to increase the pilot's seat back recline
> amount by moving the weldment back, but leaving the bottom of the seat in
the
> normal position. Is this possible?
>
> Does anyone have any detailed pictures of what the Tall-man option looks
like and
> specifically how it differs from the Regular-man option?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Schattauer <chasm711(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 "Tall-man" Option... |
The reason I went to the tall option is I felt I was too close to the instr
ument panel also. It is one of the things I would definitely do again. Th
e loss of room in the rear seat is minimal.
Paul
808PS
Date: Sun=2C 20 Jul 2008 21:30:57 -0400
From: larry(at)bowenaero.com
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Re: RV-8 "Tall-man" Option...
I'm 6'1" and had no problems with the standard seating. Do your passenger
a favor and stay with the standard seat.
--
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
On Sun=2C Jul 20=2C 2008 at 9:04 PM=2C N38CW wro
te:
I have been considering this as well and I am 5' 11" also. I have only sat
in one -8 and that was Van's demo. I have no problems with the leg room
=2C but it seemed to me that I was sitting a little too close to the instru
ment panel. I had emailed Van's and asked what the difference was=2C and t
he only response I got was that they did not recommend the tall pilot optio
n for anyone less than 6' 5".
--------
Bill Settle
RV-8 Wings (Still)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194036#194036
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Rivet Spacing for Elevator Skin Stiffeners |
Greetings:
I have "older" drawings for the RV-8 Elevators. They show NO required rivet spacing
(the number of rivets to be used) for each Elevator Skin Stiffener. Understand
the newer Stiffeners come with pilot holes already prepunched in them
from Vans.
Can someone give me the "number" of rivets used for EACH Stiffener:
E-720G E-720A E-720F
E-720H E-720B
E-720J E-720C
E-720K E-720D
E-720L E-720E
(Using a rivet spacing fan, I can then make the rivet spacing equal for each Stiffener.)
Thanks for your help, Garey Wittich Santa Monica, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Hills <jason(at)hills.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Rivet Spacing for Elevator Skin Stiffeners |
A: 10
B: 9
C: 9
D: 8
E: 8
F: 7
G: 7
H: 6
J: 8
K: 8
L: 7
Off my drawing DWG 4 & DWG 5 for RV-8 kit purchased Sept 2006.
Hope that helps!
...Jason
On Jul 24, 2008, at 8:41 PM, Garey Wittich wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: Garey Wittich
Greetings:
I have "older" drawings for the RV-8 Elevators. They show NO required
rivet spacing (the number of rivets to be used) for each Elevator Skin
Stiffener. Understand the newer Stiffeners come with pilot holes
already prepunched in them from Vans.
Can someone give me the "number" of rivets used for EACH Stiffener:
E-720G E-720A E-720F
E-720H E-720B
E-720J E-720C
E-720K E-720D
E-720L E-720E
(Using a rivet spacing fan, I can then make the rivet spacing equal
for each Stiffener.)
Thanks for your help, Garey Wittich Santa Monica, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rivet Spacing for Elevator Skin Stiffeners |
| From: | "Jeff Preou" <jeff(at)preou.com> |
Don't have the drawings in front of me, and I only have the
right-elevator in the house at the moment, but it goes 10 - 9 - 9 - 8 -
8 - 7 - 7 counting from the inboard to the outboard (not including the
tip rib, which was '7' but the last two at the forward end were much
closer together). [I have the new PP kit]
--
Jeff Preou
Hamilton, New Zealand
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Garey Wittich
Sent: Friday, 25 July 2008 3:41 p.m.
Subject: RV8-List: Rivet Spacing for Elevator Skin Stiffeners
Greetings:
I have "older" drawings for the RV-8 Elevators. They show NO required
rivet spacing (the number of rivets to be used) for each Elevator Skin
Stiffener. Understand the newer Stiffeners come with pilot holes
already prepunched in them from Vans.
Can someone give me the "number" of rivets used for EACH Stiffener:
E-720G E-720A E-720F
E-720H E-720B
E-720J E-720C
E-720K E-720D
E-720L E-720E
(Using a rivet spacing fan, I can then make the rivet spacing equal for
each Stiffener.)
Thanks for your help, Garey Wittich Santa Monica, CA
############################################################
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | A Tough Decision |
After three years building and five years flying my RV-8, I have decided to
move into Light Sport aviation.
I will always cherish the memories of RVs and all they have to offer.
After spending months researching Builder Liability Issues, I have decided
to donate Cappys Toy to an Aviation Museum.
The museum has offered to create an Experimental Aircraft Section featuring
Cappys Toy. It is heartwarming to know Cappys Toy will forevermore be
representing Experimental Aviation, and that I have found a good home for
her.
The museum has agreed to accept Cappys Toy without the engine, engine
accessories, NAV/COM GNC 300XL, transponder GTX 327, autopilot Trio Avionics
EZ Pilot and 5 point airline type seat belts.
The expected delivery date is September 15, 2008.
In addition to a tax deduction, the sale of these items will enable me to
re-coup some of the losses incurred from not selling the airplane outright.
If you are interested in a proven complete functioning power plant package
with less than 450 hours for your project, or any of the other items, please
give me a call.
Engine and Engine Accessories
Superior XP 360: 0-360 A1A2, 180 HP
Main Alternator: B&C Specialty Products, L-40 with LR3C voltage regulator
Standby Alternator: B&C Specialty Products, SD-8 with SB1B-14 voltage
regulator, mounted in the Suction Pump engine case pad
Starter: B&C Specialty Products, BC315, Light Weight
Top Ignition: Light Speed Plasma II, with built in Crank Sender
Bottom Ignition: Slick 4000 Magneto with Impulse Coupler, mounted in the
Left Magneto engine case pad
Carburetor: Precision Airmotive MA4-5
Oil Filter Adapter: B&C BC7000
Oil Cooler: Stewart Warner
Exhaust: Viterman
Package Cost New $29,500. Price $19,000
Steve Glasgow-Cappy
N123SG RV-8
Cappy's Toy
3931 Melchor Avenue
Charlotte, NC
willfly(at)carolina.rr.com
704-362-0005 Home
704-281-7884 Cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Johnson" <mrwrj(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Spacing for Elevator Skin Stiffeners |
Garey,
My kit was purchased in 1997. Elevator Skin Stiffner rivet spacing is as
follows:
Right: 10, 9, 9, 8, 8, 7, 7
Left: 6, 6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 7, 7
Bill
Ann Arbor, Michigan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Garey Wittich" <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 11:41 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Rivet Spacing for Elevator Skin Stiffeners
>
> Greetings:
>
> I have "older" drawings for the RV-8 Elevators. They show NO required
> rivet spacing (the number of rivets to be used) for each Elevator Skin
> Stiffener. Understand the newer Stiffeners come with pilot holes already
> prepunched in them from Vans.
>
> Can someone give me the "number" of rivets used for EACH Stiffener:
>
> E-720G E-720A E-720F
>
> E-720H E-720B
>
> E-720J E-720C
>
> E-720K E-720D
>
> E-720L E-720E
>
> (Using a rivet spacing fan, I can then make the rivet spacing equal for
> each Stiffener.)
>
> Thanks for your help, Garey Wittich Santa Monica, CA
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wanted to buy 2 Parachutes-Cash |
Hi guys,
Anyone interested in selling a set of parachutes?
I had 2 parachutes lined up to buy from a friend for my Yak-52, but he
decided to keep all 4 of his chutes, so I'm back to trying to find 2 used seat
chutes that someone out there no longer needs or might want to unload for cash.
My wife is pregnant and is putting the squeeze on me to have parachutes when
I fly the Yak.
If anyone knows of someone that would like to sell their used chutes please
have them contact me off the matronics list directly via my email which is
_sd737(at)aol.com_ (mailto:sd737(at)aol.com)
Again, please email me directly.
Thanks guys,
Scott Douglass
Reno, Nv
_sd737(at)aol.com_ (mailto:sd737(at)aol.com)
**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget?
Read reviews on AOL Autos.
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Loer" <stazel(at)cpros.com> |
| Subject: | Wing Wiring/Plumbing |
Stan Loer
RV-8 Q/B
stazel(at)cpros.com
I'm planning to install fittings and connectors in the wing roots so
that pitot lines and wiring can be disconnected to facilitate wing
removal/installation. Are there any photos out there which I could use
to help me sort this out?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Wiring/Plumbing |
Stan, no photos but allow for 5 wires for the wing tip lights.
Dick
**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget?
Read reviews on AOL Autos.
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Rice <rice737(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Wing Wiring/Plumbing |
Hey Stan=2C
Having connectors and fittings sounds good in theory=2C but how often do yo
u really thing you will need to remove your wings. If you really think you
might have to do that in the future=2C just leave enough extra wire or plu
mbing so that you can cut it and put the connector in then. Getting the wi
ng attach bolts out will be the hardest part of that type of project anyway
.
See you in the air soon=2C
Paul Rice
RV8 100 hours flying.
If I ever have to remove my wings=2C wiring and plumbing will be the least
of my problems.
From: stazel(at)cpros.comTo: rv8-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RV8-List: Wing Wir
ing/PlumbingDate: Sat=2C 2 Aug 2008 13:46:08 -0700
Stan Loer
RV-8 Q/B
stazel(at)cpros.com
I'm planning to install fittings and connectors in the wing roots so that p
itot lines and wiring can be disconnected to facilitate wing removal/instal
lation. Are there any photos out there which I could use to help me sort t
his out?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bert murillo <robertrv607(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Wing Wiring/Plumbing |
Every person has his own ideas. How wrong they are, is only when they
find themselves in the worst situation, and then is too late to correct
their wrong planning....
I wish I had done things different, when in comes to wiring and
connectors, to wings etc....
But do not believe it....
Robert
rv6a
--- On Sat, 8/2/08, Paul Rice wrote:
> From: Paul Rice <rice737(at)msn.com>
> Subject: RE: RV8-List: Wing Wiring/Plumbing
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Saturday, August 2, 2008, 9:42 PM
> Hey Stan,
>
> Having connectors and fittings sounds good in theory, but
> how often do you really thing you will need to remove your
> wings. If you really think you might have to do that in the
> future, just leave enough extra wire or plumbing so that you
> can cut it and put the connector in then. Getting the wing
> attach bolts out will be the hardest part of that type of
> project anyway.
>
> See you in the air soon,
> Paul Rice
> RV8 100 hours flying.
> If I ever have to remove my wings, wiring and plumbing will
> be the least of my problems.
>
>
>
> From: stazel(at)cpros.comTo: rv8-list(at)matronics.comSubject:
> RV8-List: Wing Wiring/PlumbingDate: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 13:46:08
>
>
>
> Stan Loer
> RV-8 Q/B
> stazel(at)cpros.com
>
> I'm planning to install fittings and connectors in the
> wing roots so that pitot lines and wiring can be
> disconnected to facilitate wing removal/installation. Are
> there any photos out there which I could use to help me sort
> this out?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince-Himsl" <vhimsl(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Wing Wiring/Plumbing |
I am at this stage also. I was going to install connectors but with the Vans
plastic conduit extending from the wing tip to the inside the fuselage, It
is easier to just run the wires all the way through. If you leave a
maintenance loop in the tubing and wires (inside the fuselage), you can cut
and crimp if and when you have to remove the wings.
For reliability I try to have continuous unbroken wire runs as the connector
interface is another possible point of failure.
The panel is another story. I installed everything on the panel while it was
on the bench and truncated every wire (except coax) with an Amphenol molex
type connector combo (not the cheap Radio Shack ones). In effect I made the
panel 'plug and play'. This is so I don't have to contort myself under the
panel in the airplane. This has proven itself as I have had to remove it a
couple of times for 'corrections'. If you decide to go with the Dynon D-180,
the manifold pressure transducer requires a special crimping tool. Use this
tool for the Amphenol connectors as well. Save some bucks. I got mine off
Ebay.
So bottom line? Save the connectors for the panel and use continuous
wire/tubing runs on the wings.
Regards,
Vince H.
Idaho - N8432
At hanger for final assembly
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stan Loer
Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 1:46 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Wing Wiring/Plumbing
Stan Loer
RV-8 Q/B
stazel(at)cpros.com
I'm planning to install fittings and connectors in the wing roots so that
pitot lines and wiring can be disconnected to facilitate wing
removal/installation. Are there any photos out there which I could use to
help me sort this out?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Wiring/Plumbing |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Stan, I'm building a RV-8a and I'm not building in any type disconnect in the wiring
for the wings.
?I built a Zenith 601XL a couple years ago and invested the time and effort to
make disconnects
but it was a waste of effort. I have not even considered taking a wing off. So,
you can do whatever
you want, but the usefulness is doubtful. I removed the wings on my 8 last week
after
final fitting and stored them. Working and triming on the canopy right now. Best
regards, Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: bert murillo <robertrv607(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 11:11 pm
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Wing Wiring/Plumbing
Every person has his own ideas. How wrong they are, is only when they
find themselves in the worst situation, and then is too late to correct
their wrong planning....
I wish I had done things different, when in comes to wiring and
connectors, to wings etc....
But do not believe it....
Robert
rv6a
--- On Sat, 8/2/08, Paul Rice wrote:
> From: Paul Rice <rice737(at)msn.com>
> Subject: RE: RV8-List: Wing Wiring/Plumbing
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Saturday, August 2, 2008, 9:42 PM
> Hey Stan,
>
> Having connectors and fittings sounds good in theory, but
> how often do you really thing you will need to remove your
> wings. If you really think you might have to do that in the
> future, just leave enough extra wire or plumbing so that you
> can cut it and put the connector in then. Getting the wing
> attach bolts out will be the hardest part of that type of
> project anyway.
>
> See you in the air soon,
> Paul Rice
> RV8 100 hours flying.
> If I ever have to remove my wings, wiring and plumbing will
> be the least of my problems.
>
>
>
> From: stazel(at)cpros.comTo: rv8-list(at)matronics.comSubject:
> RV8-List: Wing Wiring/PlumbingDate: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 13:46:08
>
>
>
> Stan Loer
> RV-8 Q/B
> stazel(at)cpros.com
>
> I'm planning to install fittings and connectors in the
> wing roots so that pitot lines and wiring can be
> disconnected to facilitate wing removal/installation. Are
> there any photos out there which I could use to help me sort
> this out?
- MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 08/04/08 |
I'm doing the same as Bill and I agree with him. Should I later need to
remove the wings it will be a simple matter to cut any connections and add in
a
connector.
Bill, how are you attaching your canopy? Are you using the Van's method or
are you gluing? I'm ready to start my canopy but I'm still debating which
method to use. Do you have a web site with photos of your canopy work?
Stan Sutterfield
_www.rv-8a.net_ (http://www.rv-8a.net)
Stan, I'm building a RV-8a and I'm not building in any type disconnect in
the wiring
for the wings.
?I built a Zenith 601XL a couple years ago and invested the time and effort
to
make disconnects
but it was a waste of effort. I have not even considered taking a wing off.
So,
you can do whatever
you want, but the usefulness is doubtful. I removed the wings on my 8 last
week
after
final fitting and stored them. Working and triming on the canopy right now.
Best
regards, Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: bert murillo <robertrv607(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 11:11 pm
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Wing Wiring/Plumbing
Every person has his own ideas. How wrong they are, is only when they
find themselves in the worst situation, and then is too late to correct
their wrong planning....
I wish I had done things different, when in comes to wiring and
connectors, to wings etc....
But do not believe it....
Robert
rv6a
--- On Sat, 8/2/08, Paul Rice wrote:
> From: Paul Rice <rice737(at)msn.com>
> Subject: RE: RV8-List: Wing Wiring/Plumbing
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Saturday, August 2, 2008, 9:42 PM
> Hey Stan,
>
> Having connectors and fittings sounds good in theory, but
> how often do you really thing you will need to remove your
> wings. If you really think you might have to do that in the
> future, just leave enough extra wire or plumbing so that you
> can cut it and put the connector in then. Getting the wing
> attach bolts out will be the hardest part of that type of
> project anyway.
>
> See you in the air soon,
> Paul Rice
> RV8 100 hours flying.
> If I ever have to remove my wings, wiring and plumbing will
> be the least of my problems.
>
>
>
> From: stazel(at)cpros.comTo: rv8-list(at)matronics.comSubject:
> RV8-List: Wing Wiring/PlumbingDate: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 13:46:08
>
>
>
> Stan Loer
> RV-8 Q/B
> stazel(at)cpros.com
>
> I'm planning to install fittings and connectors in the
> wing roots so that pitot lines and wiring can be
> disconnected to facilitate wing removal/installation. Are
> there any photos out there which I could use to help me sort
> this out?
**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget?
Read reviews on AOL Autos.
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Loer" <stazel(at)cpros.com> |
| Subject: | Pitot Head Location |
Stan Loer
RV-8 Q/B Wings
stazel(at)cpros.com
Thanks all for the response re wiring wing root quick disconnects. Not
gonna do that. Next issue:
Need to relocate the pitot because I'm using the Dynon unit so I can get
AOA. Preference is to move location approx. 2.5 in. inboard. Major
benefit is not to have to route plumbing around aileron bellcrank and
still use existing rows of snap bushings. Rough sketches (very) lead me
to believe this position still remains outside the propwash cone. Guess
I'm looking for validation. Any comments?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | BooHoo - Trim Tab Alignment... |
Listers,
Well, the trim tab came out perfect and I'm really pleased with the
mating to the Elevator. That being said, I'm less than pleased with
the for/aft alignment of the Trim Tab. The Trim Tab hangs past the
Elevator trailing edge by about 1/8" of an inch. It is 1/8" along
the whole distance of the Trim Tab. In looking at the cause, it
appears that the skins are all cut such that you are suppose to use
the roundy part of the hinge and not the square cutout when aligning
the hinge for drilling. This would account for 1/16" on each side
and would add up to the 1/8" overhang I'm seeing. Grrrrrr....
What should I do, fellow builders? I could drill out all the rivets
and use a new hinge, and I'm certainly not opposed to that. But am I
making too big a deal out of the whole thing? Or is everyone gonna
look at it forever and go, "Hey, how come your trim take is too long?" :-(
Bummed Out in Livermore
Matt
RV-8 #82880
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Gray <n747jg(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: BooHoo - Trim Tab Alignment... |
Matt, my plans are at the hangar, so I can't check for sure, but my
guess is that your problem is with the gap / overlap of the hinge
itself, too much hinge is exposed. Take a look at this picture, and
you can probably see what I mean. Drill it out, get new hinge, line
the trailing edge of the elevator and trim tab up using a straight
edge, and drill it again.
Jim Gray
RV-8 N747JG Flying
,
On Aug 5, 2008, at 1:55 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> Well, the trim tab came out perfect and I'm really pleased with the
> mating to the Elevator. That being said, I'm less than pleased with
> the for/aft alignment of the Trim Tab. The Trim Tab hangs past the
> Elevator trailing edge by about 1/8" of an inch. It is 1/8" along
> the whole distance of the Trim Tab. In looking at the cause, it
> appears that the skins are all cut such that you are suppose to use
> the roundy part of the hinge and not the square cutout when aligning
> the hinge for drilling. This would account for 1/16" on each side
> and would add up to the 1/8" overhang I'm seeing. Grrrrrr....
>
> What should I do, fellow builders? I could drill out all the rivets
> and use a new hinge, and I'm certainly not opposed to that. But am
> I making too big a deal out of the whole thing? Or is everyone
> gonna look at it forever and go, "Hey, how come your trim take is
> too long?" :-(
>
> Bummed Out in Livermore
>
> Matt
> RV-8 #82880 <2008.08.02 - RV-8 Tail Kit - Trim Tab
> (10).jpg><2008.08.02 - RV-8 Tail Kit - Trim Tab (11).jpg><2008.08.02
> - RV-8 Tail Kit - Trim Tab (12).jpg>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don McNamara" <N8RV(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: BooHoo - Trim Tab Alignment... |
Matt, I can assure you that, unless you're out to build a Grand Champion
winner at Oshkosh (not that there's anything wrong with that), don't sweat
it. The only people who will ever care will be YOU and those who have also
just started an empennage kit!
That said, this is only the beginning. You'll be screwing up pieces and
parts for a long time, so you might as well just order a new trim tab and
see if you can build it to match to your satisfaction. Like many builders,
I have a whole box of junk parts that I sweated blood over. You will, too.
No big deal.
If you know what you did wrong and want to correct it, now's the time to do
it. Order the parts, move on to something else and backtrack when the stuff
shows up.
Welcome to the club!
Don McNamara
N8RV
80113
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 3:55 PM
Subject: RV8-List: BooHoo - Trim Tab Alignment...
>
> Listers,
>
> Well, the trim tab came out perfect and I'm really pleased with the
> mating to the Elevator. That being said, I'm less than pleased with
> the for/aft alignment of the Trim Tab. The Trim Tab hangs past the
> Elevator trailing edge by about 1/8" of an inch. It is 1/8" along
> the whole distance of the Trim Tab. In looking at the cause, it
> appears that the skins are all cut such that you are suppose to use
> the roundy part of the hinge and not the square cutout when aligning
> the hinge for drilling. This would account for 1/16" on each side
> and would add up to the 1/8" overhang I'm seeing. Grrrrrr....
>
> What should I do, fellow builders? I could drill out all the rivets
> and use a new hinge, and I'm certainly not opposed to that. But am I
> making too big a deal out of the whole thing? Or is everyone gonna
> look at it forever and go, "Hey, how come your trim take is too long?"
> :-(
>
> Bummed Out in Livermore
>
> Matt
> RV-8 #82880
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | BooHoo - Trim Tab Alignment... |
Matt,
Don's right, of course, but now that we all know what to look for we will
all be pointing at it and whispering about it. Maybe you could paint it red
and we wouldn't notice that it didn't line up.
I could probably line that sucker up with a big rubber mallet.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McNamara
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 2:10 PM
Subject: Re: RV8-List: BooHoo - Trim Tab Alignment...
Matt, I can assure you that, unless you're out to build a Grand Champion
winner at Oshkosh (not that there's anything wrong with that), don't sweat
it. The only people who will ever care will be YOU and those who have also
just started an empennage kit!
That said, this is only the beginning. You'll be screwing up pieces and
parts for a long time, so you might as well just order a new trim tab and
see if you can build it to match to your satisfaction. Like many builders,
I have a whole box of junk parts that I sweated blood over. You will, too.
No big deal.
If you know what you did wrong and want to correct it, now's the time to do
it. Order the parts, move on to something else and backtrack when the stuff
shows up.
Welcome to the club!
Don McNamara
N8RV
80113
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 08/04/08 |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Stan, no I don't have a web site. I can barely figure out e-mail. I'm gluing the
canopy. It seems the better of the two methods to me. I'm
in the frame prep mode now. Still have a little more to trim on the canopy before
I make the big cut. Maybe tonight?if the Bud holds out. I'm not sure why it
concerns me so much. Maybe because I have read so much of everybody else's concern.
I hope to glue this weekend if I can get all the moving parts in place
by then. I helped Tony Patti glue his canopy last month and have some experience
now on do's and don't so I hope it goes well. I'll let you know how it goes.
Best regards, Bill?
-----Original Message-----
From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
Sent: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 6:58 am
Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 08/04/08
I'm doing the same as Bill and I agree with him.? Should I later need to remove
the wings it will be a simple matter to cut any connections and add in a connector.
?
Bill, how are you attaching your canopy?? Are you using the Van's method or are
you gluing?? I'm ready to start my canopy but I'm still debating which method
to use.? Do you have a web site with photos of your canopy work?
?
Stan Sutterfield
www.rv-8a.net
?
Stan, I'm building a RV-8a and I'm not building in any type disconnect in the wiring
for the wings.
?I built a Zenith 601XL a couple years ago and invested the time and effort to
make disconnects
but it was a waste of effort. I have not even considered taking a wing off. So,
you can do whatever
you want, but the usefulness is doubtful. I removed the wings on my 8 last week
after
final fitting and stored them. Working and triming on the canopy right now. Best
regards, Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: bert murillo <robertrv607(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 11:11 pm
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Wing Wiring/Plumbing
Every person has his own ideas. How wrong they are, is only when they
find themselves in the worst situation, and then is too late to correct
their wrong planning....
I wish I had done things different, when in comes to wiring and
connectors, to wings etc....
But do not believe it....
Robert
rv6a
--- On Sat, 8/2/08, Paul Rice wrote:
> From: Paul Rice <rice737(at)msn.com>
> Subject: RE: RV8-List: Wing Wiring/Plumbing
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Saturday, August 2, 2008, 9:42 PM
> Hey Stan,
>?
> Having connectors and fittings sounds good in theory, but
> how often do you really thing you will need to remove your
> wings.? If you really think you might have to do that in the
> future, just leave enough extra wire or plumbing so that you
> can cut it and put the connector in then.? Getting the wing
> attach bolts out will be the hardest part of that type of
> project anyway.
>?
> See you in the air soon,
> Paul Rice
> RV8 100 hours flying.
> If I ever have to remove my wings, wiring and plumbing will
> be the least of my problems.
>
>
>
> From: stazel(at)cpros.comTo: rv8-list(at)matronics.comSubject:
> RV8-List: Wing Wiring/PlumbingDate: Sat, 2 Aug 2008 13:46:08
>
>
>
> Stan Loer
> RV-8 Q/B??
> stazel(at)cpros.com? ? ? ?
>?
> I'm planning to install fittings and connectors in the
> wing roots so that pitot lines and wiring can be
> disconnected to facilitate wing removal/installation.? Are
> there any photos out there which I could use to help me sort
> this out?
?
Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? Read reviews on AOL
Autos.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: BooHoo - Trim Tab Alignment... |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Matt, that is nothing. Just wait until you rivet the wing bottom skins. Talk about
a painful time. Best regards and keep on working, Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Don McNamara <N8RV(at)gte.net>
Sent: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 5:09 pm
Subject: Re: RV8-List: BooHoo - Trim Tab Alignment...
?
Matt, I can assure you that, unless you're out to build a Grand Champion winner
at Oshkosh (not that there's anything wrong with that), don't sweat it. The only
people who will ever care will be YOU and those who have also just started
an empennage kit!?
?
That said, this is only the beginning. You'll be screwing up pieces and parts for
a long time, so you might as well just order a new trim tab and see if you
can build it to match to your satisfaction. Like many builders, I have a whole
box of junk parts that I sweated blood over. You will, too. No big deal.?
?
If you know what you did wrong and want to correct it, now's the time to do it.
Order the parts, move on to something else and backtrack when the stuff shows
up.?
?
Welcome to the club!?
?
Don McNamara?
N8RV?
80113?
?
----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>?
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 3:55 PM?
Subject: RV8-List: BooHoo - Trim Tab Alignment...?
?
>?
> Listers,?
>?
> Well, the trim tab came out perfect and I'm really pleased with the?
> mating to the Elevator. That being said, I'm less than pleased with?
> the for/aft alignment of the Trim Tab. The Trim Tab hangs past the?
> Elevator trailing edge by about 1/8" of an inch. It is 1/8" along?
> the whole distance of the Trim Tab. In looking at the cause, it?
> appears that the skins are all cut such that you are suppose to use?
> the roundy part of the hinge and not the square cutout when aligning?
> the hinge for drilling. This would account for 1/16" on each side?
> and would add up to the 1/8" overhang I'm seeing. Grrrrrr....?
>?
> What should I do, fellow builders? I could drill out all the rivets?
> and use a new hinge, and I'm certainly not opposed to that. But am I?
> making too big a deal out of the whole thing? Or is everyone gonna?
> look at it forever and go, "Hey, how come your trim take is too long?" > :-(?
>?
> Bummed Out in Livermore?
>?
> Matt?
> RV-8 #82880 ?
?
?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Consensus On Finishing Back End Of Fiberglass Tips... |
Dear Listers,
Here are some pictures of my recently finished Fin and Rudder
fiberglass tips, specifically highlighting my notion of mounting the
VOR/GS/LOC antenna on the top of the Fin. It came out very nice I
think and gives full access to cabling and antenna mount for maintenance.
But here's my question. Look at that last picture of the back end of
the Fin fiberglass tip and note the gaping hole. I gather from the
plans that it is kind of up to the builder whether to put a cover on
the back of it. My first question would have to be why the f***
isn't there one already molded on it like on the front of the rudder
tip? But, hostility aside, what's everyone's thoughts on finishing
these? I'm just thinking that my patience for fiberglass layups
hovers around zero and I can just see taking a totally sweet tip
installation and mucking it royally. But, I will if I must. I would
really like the back end finished off rather than gaping open like
that, but it might be something I could live with...
Thoughts?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Ritter" <dougritter(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Consensus On Finishing Back End Of Fiberglass Tips... |
Cut a wood plug to size apx 1/4" thick, epoxy in place and cover with one
layer of glass cloth. Sand and paint.
Doug Ritter
N8ZR RV8at (turbine)
Fieseler Fi-156 Storch project
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BRUCE GRAY <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Consensus On Finishing Back End Of Fiberglass Tips... |
Matt=2C
I would use this small task of fiber glassing as testing the waters. You wi
ll eventually have to warm up to it. The wing tips were a bit of work if yo
u want them to come out nice=2C sometimes requiring to split the T/E and re
glassing. Dan Checkoway's sight explained this task. And last but not least
if you have some special words you save for special occasions wait till yo
u get to the canopy skirt. If that don't tickle you enough you still have t
he windscreen and over the top roll-over bar lay ups to do.
Take it slow and it all starts coming to you. You pull the stuff out=2C get
the scale=2C mix it up and go to town. Get to it now while the weather is
still warm. Winter sucks for this stuff. Cure time double when its 30-40 de
grees out.
First trick-Go to the hobby store and get some light balsa wood. Shape it
=2C with-out side pressure/check it on the assembly. Fit it in the tip cap
about 3/16" below the cut line.
Second- Get your cloth and cut some patterns a little over the size of the
tip opening=2C about 3ea.
Third- Mix your epoxies(West Systems) wet the area with acid brushes and la
y the first layer=2C then second=2C & third. Wetting each layer. Then prop
it up so the lay-up is flat. Once cured=2C remove the balsa plug=2C however
and sand the inside a bit(scuffing w/60-80 grit). Mix up some more resin a
nd do 2 lay-ups inside but this time put bigger patterns inside to go up th
e side of the cap a bit to lock the end cap lay-ups in.
After this you may sand and fill the outer portion to the desired shape to
nestle the rudder cap.
This may sound like a lot for a stupid little cap but the airplane isn't go
ing to fly tomorrow. You have time. Do it and you'll be happy with the out
come.
Good Luck and have some fun with it. That's what these airplanes are about.
Bruce Gray
RV8 Fuse
Finishing=2CWiring=2C& WindscreenP.S. I forgot=2C make the balsa plug long
on the bottom=2C a tongue if you will. This will be the portion that runs d
own to the top of the fin rib. You'll shape this slowly to your desired fit
as you fit this to the assembly.ans that it is kind of up to the builder w
hether to put a cover on > the back of it. My first question would have to
be why the f*** > isn't there one already molded on it like on the front of
the rudder > tip? But=2C hostility aside=2C what's everyone's thoughts on
finishing > these? I'm just thinking that my patience for fiberglass layups
> hovers around zero and I can just see taking a totally sweet tip > insta
llation and mucking it royally. But=2C I will if I must. I would > really l
ike the back end finished off rather than gaping open like > that=2C but it
might be something I could live with...> > Thoughts?> > Matt Dralle> RV-8
#82880
_________________________________________________________________
Get more from your digital life. Find out how.
http://www.windowslive.com/default.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Home2_082008
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | manuel weber <flyinwithme99(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Consensus On Finishing Back End Of Fiberglass Tips... |
Also Matt,
-
Closing this area will help prevent birds or wasp nests from being built in
that area.- Also may help aerodynamics a small amount.
--- On Fri, 8/8/08, BRUCE GRAY wrote:
From: BRUCE GRAY <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Consensus On Finishing Back End Of Fiberglass Tips..
.
Date: Friday, August 8, 2008, 8:42 AM
#yiv1274184803 .hmmessage P
{
margin:0px;padding:0px;}
#yiv1274184803 {
FONT-SIZE:10pt;FONT-FAMILY:Tahoma;}
Matt,
I would use this small task of fiber glassing as testing the waters. You wi
ll eventually have to warm up to it. The wing tips were a bit of work if yo
u want them to come out nice, sometimes requiring to split the-T/E and re
glassing. Dan Checkoway's sight explained this task. And last but not least
if you have some special words you save for special occasions wait till yo
u get to the canopy skirt. If that don't tickle you enough you still have t
he windscreen and over the top roll-over bar lay ups to do.
Take it slow and it all starts coming to you. You pull the stuff out, get t
he scale, mix it up and go to town. Get to it now while the weather is stil
l warm. Winter sucks for this stuff. Cure time-double when its 30-40 degr
ees out.
First trick-Go to the hobby store and get some light balsa wood. Shape it,
with-out side pressure/check it on the assembly. Fit it in the tip cap abou
t 3/16" below the cut line.
Second- Get your cloth and cut some patterns a little over the size of the
tip opening, about 3ea.
Third- Mix your epoxies(West Systems) wet the area with acid brushes and la
y the first layer, then second, & third. Wetting each layer. Then prop it u
p so the lay-up is flat. Once cured, remove the balsa plug, however and san
d the inside a bit(scuffing w/60-80 grit). Mix up some more resin and do 2
lay-ups inside but this time put bigger patterns inside to go up the side o
f the cap a bit to lock the end cap lay-ups-in.
After this you may sand and fill the outer portion to the desired shape to
nestle the rudder cap.
This may sound like a lot for a stupid little cap but the airplane isn't go
ing to fly tomorrow. You have time. Do it and you'll be happy with the out
come.
Good Luck and have some fun with it. That's what these airplanes are about.
-
Bruce Gray
RV8 Fuse
Finishing,Wiring,& Windscreen
P.S. I forgot, make the balsa plug long on the bottom, a tongue if you will
. This will be the portion that runs down to the top of the fin rib. You'll
shape this slowly to your desired fit as you fit this to the assembly.
ans that it is kind of up to the builder whether to put a cover on
> the back of it. My first question would have to be why the f***
> isn't there one already molded on it like on the front of the rudder
> tip? But, hostility aside, what's everyone's thoughts on finishing
> these? I'm just thinking that my patience for fiberglass layups
> hovers around zero and I can just see taking a totally sweet tip
> installation and mucking it royally. But, I will if I must. I would
> really like the back end finished off rather than gaping open like
> that, but it might be something I could live with...
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880
Get more from your digital life. Find out how.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Heath Cherneski" <heath.cherneski(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Consensus On Finishing Back End Of Fiberglass Tips... |
Finishing the tip is really no problem. Foam is your friend as it is very
easy to cut and form into the back of the tip and then glass over.
Microbaloons mixed to the consistency of peanut butter works really well to
get exactly the shape you want and then sand to finish. I would close the
hole, and I think probably the reason it is not is the clearance between
control surface and stabilizer. You want to ensure that with a little flex
there is still no chance of contact or binding between the two surfaces and
every airplane clearance is going to be slightly different. Filling in the
end of the cap is really no problem. I used blue tivex insulation I got
from Lowes and then the above tecnique. I think it's half inch or
something. This stuff also works very well for holding control tubes while
you rig down the road and for keeping the wingtip expanded while you drill
for nutplates etcetera. Obviously, make sure you have removed the foam from
around all control tubes before final assembly.
Heath Cherneski
RV8 N818HC
52918
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 10:02 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Consensus On Finishing Back End Of Fiberglass Tips...
Dear Listers,
Here are some pictures of my recently finished Fin and Rudder
fiberglass tips, specifically highlighting my notion of mounting the
VOR/GS/LOC antenna on the top of the Fin. It came out very nice I
think and gives full access to cabling and antenna mount for maintenance.
But here's my question. Look at that last picture of the back end of
the Fin fiberglass tip and note the gaping hole. I gather from the
plans that it is kind of up to the builder whether to put a cover on
the back of it. My first question would have to be why the f***
isn't there one already molded on it like on the front of the rudder
tip? But, hostility aside, what's everyone's thoughts on finishing
these? I'm just thinking that my patience for fiberglass layups
hovers around zero and I can just see taking a totally sweet tip
installation and mucking it royally. But, I will if I must. I would
really like the back end finished off rather than gaping open like
that, but it might be something I could live with...
Thoughts?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Consensus On Finishing Back End Of Fiberglass Tips |
Matt,
I couldn't find your photos to view them.
I'm assuming you plan to make the fin fiberglass piece removable for
replacement or repair of the antenna. Doug's idea to add wood and glass over
it
will work. I used a piece of slightly curved aluminum hot glued to the tip and
laid the glass on the inside. See _http://www.rv-8a.net/2007.htm_
(http://www.rv-8a.net/2007.htm) and scroll down to 24 Feb 07.
I made mine removable and added glass to cover most of the gap. I'll likely
add a bit of RTV to keep water out.
Stan Sutterfield
_www.rv-8a.net_ (http://www.rv-8a.net)
Dear Listers,
Here are some pictures of my recently finished Fin and Rudder
fiberglass tips, specifically highlighting my notion of mounting the
VOR/GS/LOC antenna on the top of the Fin. It came out very nice I
think and gives full access to cabling and antenna mount for maintenance.
But here's my question. Look at that last picture of the back end of
the Fin fiberglass tip and note the gaping hole. I gather from the
plans that it is kind of up to the builder whether to put a cover on
the back of it. My first question would have to be why the f***
isn't there one already molded on it like on the front of the rudder
tip? But, hostility aside, what's everyone's thoughts on finishing
these? I'm just thinking that my patience for fiberglass layups
hovers around zero and I can just see taking a totally sweet tip
installation and mucking it royally. But, I will if I must. I would
really like the back end finished off rather than gaping open like
that, but it might be something I could live with...
Thoughts?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880
________________________________ Message 4
_____________________________________
From: "Doug Ritter" <dougritter(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Consensus On Finishing Back End Of Fiberglass Tips...
Cut a wood plug to size apx 1/4" thick, epoxy in place and cover with one
layer of glass cloth. Sand and paint.
**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget?
Read reviews on AOL Autos.
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator Stiffener locations |
Greetings:
Ref: LEFT Elevator (RV8-A)
My Dwg 4PP, Rev 1 (older Dwg) for the Elevator gives "dimensions" for the location
of the Elevator Stiffeners (My Elevator Skin [E-601PP-L] is NOT prepunched
for the Stiffener locations). Using the dimensions on Dwg 4PP places the 4th
Stiffener IN from the LEFT Elevator TIP in the SAME location as E-606PP (Elevator
Trim Spar) by about 7/16". (Other words, the Stiffener crosses the Elevator
Trim Spar 7/16" in from the tip of the Trim Spar.)
Have checked and rechecked the measurements per Dwg 4PP and they are good, so others
must have run into this same problem. It seems to me that the solution
is to move the Stiffener location out 1/8" from the end of the Elevator Trim Spar
(now the Stiffeners will not be separated by an equal distance).
The other solution would be to cut this Stiffener in two pieces so it bridges
the Elevator Trim Spar (now the Stiffeners can be equally spaced). This method
seems less desirable as a one piece Stiffener will have more strength than
a 2 piece Stiffener.
What did you Builders do that had this same problem ?????
Appreciate your help, Garey Wittich Santa Monica, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BooHoo - Trim Tab Alignment... |
Dear Listers,
Thanks to everyone for all the great feedback on my trim tab
woes. The more I looked at the 1/8" over hang of the trim tab, the
more I couldn't stand it! So I ordered up a new hinge which came
today. Drilling out the rivets wasn't too bad. I used a nice
straight piece of wood taped to the trailing edge of the Elevator as
a reference, and then redrilled the new hinge. Attached is a
"before" and "after" shot. Ah, much better! Now I can sleep at
night. All and all it was pretty easy.
BTW, I picked up a small "air brush" by Badger this afternoon at a
local craft store call Richards. It has a little glass bulb to hold
the paint and with an adapter, hooked right up to my air
compressor. Three drinking straws full of Variprime plus three
straws full of activator was all I needed in the little air brush to
very nicely prime the two pieces of replacement hinge. Clean up was
easy and fast. Great for those "one-off" priming jobs. Just a
little tip from your Uncle Matt... :-)
So, just to set the record straight, none of you guys will now be
able to come up to me and point and laugh when you see my trim tab alignment!!
Best,
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880
At 12:55 PM 8/5/2008, Matt Dralle wrote:
>Listers,
>
>Well, the trim tab came out perfect and I'm really pleased with the
>mating to the Elevator. That being said, I'm less than pleased with
>the for/aft alignment of the Trim Tab. The Trim Tab hangs past the
>Elevator trailing edge by about 1/8" of an inch. It is 1/8" along
>the whole distance of the Trim Tab. In looking at the cause, it
>appears that the skins are all cut such that you are suppose to use
>the roundy part of the hinge and not the square cutout when aligning
>the hinge for drilling. This would account for 1/16" on each side
>and would add up to the 1/8" overhang I'm seeing. Grrrrrr....
>
>What should I do, fellow builders? I could drill out all the rivets
>and use a new hinge, and I'm certainly not opposed to that. But am
>I making too big a deal out of the whole thing? Or is everyone
>gonna look at it forever and go, "Hey, how come your trim take is
>too long?" :-(
>
>Bummed Out in Livermore
>
>Matt
>RV-8 #82880
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8A Dwg 4PP (Elevator Dwg) |
Greetings:
Does anybody have Drawing 4PP (RV8 Elevator)?? It is an "old" Dwg that came with
my RV-8A Emphennage Kit about 7 years ago. Called Vans, but they do not have
access to it = stored somewhere collecting dust. My Drawing 4PP is Revision
1. Does anybody have this drawing with a later revisions ??? If so could you
share with me what the later revisions encompass. Just messed up my Left Elevator
Skin, possibly by using old (not valid) dimensions - don't want to make
this costly mistake again.
Appreciate YOUR HELP, Garey Wittich Santa Monica, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator Fiberglass Tip - Now What...? |
Dear Listers,
First, thank you to everyone that has responded to my inquiry
regarding filling the gaping holes behind the fiberglass tips on the
Fin and Horz Stabs. You guys had some great ideas and I'm going to
try some and see how it goes.
In the meantime, I fit the fiberglass tip on the Right Elevator today
and after notching out the tip to fit around the lead weight and
beveling the outside edge of the tip, I got it to fit on very
nicely. I plan to use the same platenut installation as I did on the
rudder. Frankly, I can't believe that Van's recommends using pop
rivets here since if the screw that holds the lead weight in place
ever becomes loose, you'd have to ruin your paint job to get in and
tighten it. Bah!
Okay, so I got the tip on and then focused my attention to the front
part that goes over the lead weight. Um, what a terrible
design... Surly you don't just leave it like that? Even if I sand
the fiberglass tip down to match the lead weight, there is still the
issue of the "openness" of the tip. There is no way I can sand the
tip and lead weight down to match the counterbalance skin. The
fiberglass tip will be too thin right at the end.
I really don't want to fiberglass all around the lead weight. It
also seems like just about anything I do with respect to the
fiberglass tip and "blending" it into the lead weight is going to
lead to cracking down the road.
I'm am just totally aghast at the "design" here. There just doesn't
seem like an elegant way to finish this off. The proper design would
have been, in my opinion, to make the lead weight smaller or a
slightly different shape such that the fiberglass tip could simply be
formed all the way around the lead weight. Kind of like on the Rudder.
Arg... I just don't know what to do here. I really don't want to
glass in the whole tip, particularly since I want it to be
removable. Do I really just sand the tip down flush with the lead
weight and call it "done"?
You know, it seems ironic that the sheet metal stuff in the
late-model kits is just so awesome. You can build a beautiful,
perfectly straight empennage now in a way that just wasn't possible
in the past. So now I have this awesome looking metal structure that
I have to dork a crappy, poorly formed fiberglass tip to it. Its all
just so disheartening...
Please tell me there's a special trick or maybe a really nice
after-market all metal hydroformed tip I can get to use instead...?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Johnson" <mrwrj(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8A Dwg 4PP (Elevator Dwg) |
Garey,
My 4PP Drawing is dated 3-21-96 with no revisions. It's for an RV-8. I
don't know if the RV-8A is different or not. My RV-8 drawing shows 5 1/2
inch spacing between the stiffeners with the Elevator Trim Spar (E606) T-ing
into the 4th stiffener.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Garey Wittich" <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2008 4:40 PM
Subject: RV8-List: RV-8A Dwg 4PP (Elevator Dwg)
>
> Greetings:
>
> Does anybody have Drawing 4PP (RV8 Elevator)?? It is an "old" Dwg that
> came with my RV-8A Emphennage Kit about 7 years ago. Called Vans, but
> they do not have access to it = stored somewhere collecting dust. My
> Drawing 4PP is Revision 1. Does anybody have this drawing with a later
> revisions ??? If so could you share with me what the later revisions
> encompass. Just messed up my Left Elevator Skin, possibly by using old
> (not valid) dimensions - don't want to make this costly mistake again.
>
> Appreciate YOUR HELP, Garey Wittich Santa Monica, CA
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Fiberglass Tip - Now What...? |
Hi Matt,
This is how I did mine and it came out great. I will balance after painting
by drilling out some lead on the inside.
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=carlbell&project=423&category=3014&log=42437&row=1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2008 10:24 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Elevator Fiberglass Tip - Now What...?
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> First, thank you to everyone that has responded to my inquiry
> regarding filling the gaping holes behind the fiberglass tips on the
> Fin and Horz Stabs. You guys had some great ideas and I'm going to
> try some and see how it goes.
>
> In the meantime, I fit the fiberglass tip on the Right Elevator today
> and after notching out the tip to fit around the lead weight and
> beveling the outside edge of the tip, I got it to fit on very
> nicely. I plan to use the same platenut installation as I did on the
> rudder. Frankly, I can't believe that Van's recommends using pop
> rivets here since if the screw that holds the lead weight in place
> ever becomes loose, you'd have to ruin your paint job to get in and
> tighten it. Bah!
>
> Okay, so I got the tip on and then focused my attention to the front
> part that goes over the lead weight. Um, what a terrible
> design... Surly you don't just leave it like that? Even if I sand
> the fiberglass tip down to match the lead weight, there is still the
> issue of the "openness" of the tip. There is no way I can sand the
> tip and lead weight down to match the counterbalance skin. The
> fiberglass tip will be too thin right at the end.
>
> I really don't want to fiberglass all around the lead weight. It
> also seems like just about anything I do with respect to the
> fiberglass tip and "blending" it into the lead weight is going to
> lead to cracking down the road.
>
> I'm am just totally aghast at the "design" here. There just doesn't
> seem like an elegant way to finish this off. The proper design would
> have been, in my opinion, to make the lead weight smaller or a
> slightly different shape such that the fiberglass tip could simply be
> formed all the way around the lead weight. Kind of like on the Rudder.
>
> Arg... I just don't know what to do here. I really don't want to
> glass in the whole tip, particularly since I want it to be
> removable. Do I really just sand the tip down flush with the lead
> weight and call it "done"?
>
> You know, it seems ironic that the sheet metal stuff in the
> late-model kits is just so awesome. You can build a beautiful,
> perfectly straight empennage now in a way that just wasn't possible
> in the past. So now I have this awesome looking metal structure that
> I have to dork a crappy, poorly formed fiberglass tip to it. Its all
> just so disheartening...
>
> Please tell me there's a special trick or maybe a really nice
> after-market all metal hydroformed tip I can get to use instead...?
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | manuel weber <flyinwithme99(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Fiberglass Tip - Now What...? |
Carl,
-
Just an observation that I noted during my visit to Oshkosh this year.....
-
Of the many RV aircraft I looked at, I noticed cracking and separation wher
e the elevator tip had been faired using a filler of some type.- Of cours
e I could not determine if the cracking was happening due to an inferior fi
ller being used, or if it was happening because of the dissimilar expansion
and contraction rates of the fiberglass vs. the aluminum skin.
-
Whatever the case, virtually ALL the elevators....and rudders for that matt
er, that used a filler in this area were cracking between the fiberglass an
d aluminum skin.
-
Most-aircraft that did not use a filler in this area, had obviously spent
some extra time fitting the tips to the surfaces in order to-increase th
e asthetics of the parting lines in this area, and therefore have achieved
a lasting effect...(without the filler).
-
I agree that the filler makes a better looking installation initially.- I
t will crack later on down the road however, in my estimation....
--- On Mon, 8/11/08, Carl Bell wrote:
From: Carl Bell <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Elevator Fiberglass Tip - Now What...?
Date: Monday, August 11, 2008, 1:44 PM
Hi Matt,
This is how I did mine and it came out great. I will balance after paintin
g
by drilling out some lead on the inside.
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=carlbell&project=423
&category=3014&log=42437&row=1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2008 10:24 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Elevator Fiberglass Tip - Now What...?
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> First, thank you to everyone that has responded to my inquiry
> regarding filling the gaping holes behind the fiberglass tips on the
> Fin and Horz Stabs. You guys had some great ideas and I'm going to
> try some and see how it goes.
>
> In the meantime, I fit the fiberglass tip on the Right Elevator today
> and after notching out the tip to fit around the lead weight and
> beveling the outside edge of the tip, I got it to fit on very
> nicely. I plan to use the same platenut installation as I did on the
> rudder. Frankly, I can't believe that Van's recommends using pop
> rivets here since if the screw that holds the lead weight in place
> ever becomes loose, you'd have to ruin your paint job to get in and
> tighten it. Bah!
>
> Okay, so I got the tip on and then focused my attention to the front
> part that goes over the lead weight. Um, what a terrible
> design... Surly you don't just leave it like that? Even if I sand
> the fiberglass tip down to match the lead weight, there is still the
> issue of the "openness" of the tip. There is no way I can sand
the
> tip and lead weight down to match the counterbalance skin. The
> fiberglass tip will be too thin right at the end.
>
> I really don't want to fiberglass all around the lead weight. It
> also seems like just about anything I do with respect to the
> fiberglass tip and "blending" it into the lead weight is going
to
> lead to cracking down the road.
>
> I'm am just totally aghast at the "design" here. There just
doesn't
> seem like an elegant way to finish this off. The proper design would
> have been, in my opinion, to make the lead weight smaller or a
> slightly different shape such that the fiberglass tip could simply be
> formed all the way around the lead weight. Kind of like on the Rudder.
>
> Arg... I just don't know what to do here. I really don't want to
> glass in the whole tip, particularly since I want it to be
> removable. Do I really just sand the tip down flush with the lead
> weight and call it "done"?
>
> You know, it seems ironic that the sheet metal stuff in the
> late-model kits is just so awesome. You can build a beautiful,
> perfectly straight empennage now in a way that just wasn't possible
> in the past. So now I have this awesome looking metal structure that
> I have to dork a crappy, poorly formed fiberglass tip to it. Its all
> just so disheartening...
>
> Please tell me there's a special trick or maybe a really nice
> after-market all metal hydroformed tip I can get to use instead...?
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Construction question for RV-8(A) Elevator |
My Drawing 4PP (circa 2000), which Vans has "somewheres", is confusing to me:
1) This drawing shows the "DIMENSIONS of Elevator Spar E-602PP" (narrow end) with
cutouts of 3/4" X 5/8". What is this cut-out for - does not make sense ??
2) Section B-B: Shows the E-602PP Spar mating to the aft end of the E-604 Rib.
It looks like the aft end of E-604 Ribs "flange" is cut out so as to not interfere
with the E-602PPs "flange" at this point. Is this correct ??
3) Section B-B: Shows a "dashed line" where the above Spar and Rib meet. IF
the aft end of E-604 Rib's flange is cut-out, what does this "dash line" signify
as nothing is there ???
3) Earle in Florida I lost your phone number.
Need a little clarification HELP.
Thank you, Garey Wittich (310) 392-1682 Santa Monica, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Construction question for RV-8(A) Elevator |
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Garey Wittich
Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 12:02 AM
Subject: RV8-List: Construction question for RV-8(A) Elevator
-->
My Drawing 4PP (circa 2000), which Vans has "somewheres", is confusing to
me:
1) This drawing shows the "DIMENSIONS of Elevator Spar E-602PP" (narrow
end) with cutouts of 3/4" X 5/8". What is this cut-out for - does not make
sense ??
Garey: The cutouts you refer to enable the bending of the spar web (away
from the spar flanges)to form a flange for attaching the rib. The rib has
its flanges trimmed to allow forming a flange to attach to the spar and
avoid interferance with the spar flanges.
2) Section B-B: Shows the E-602PP Spar mating to the aft end of the E-604
Rib. It looks like the aft end of E-604 Ribs "flange" is cut out so as to
not interfere with the E-602PPs "flange" at this point. Is this correct ??
Yes.
3) Section B-B: Shows a "dashed line" where the above Spar and Rib meet.
IF the aft end of E-604 Rib's flange is cut-out, what does this "dash line"
signify as nothing is there ???
It appears to signify nothing.
Need a little clarification HELP.
Thank you, Garey Wittich (310) 392-1682 Santa Monica, CA
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator Skin Trailing Edge Bowing... |
Dear Listers,
Backing into the garage today I noticed the elevator skin bowing at
the trailing edge in the review mirror because of the way the light
was hitting it. Basically what the deal is I think is that I bent
the trailing edge of the elevators more than necessary. So, when I
pulled the leading edge apart to fit it over the spar, I now have a
concave bowing effect between some of the bays. Van's goes to great
lengths in the manual to make sure that bend the elevator trailing
edges *enough*, but doesn't make mention of what is "too much". The
radius of the trailing edge is still within spec and there is no
cracking or stress marks. Its just bent too much and looks like of
stupid. Somehow, I did the rudder perfectly, but both elevators
suffer from the effect. I've included some pictures below.
What the common thought on this issue? Are the safety/flutter issues
with over-bending as I have done? What to do...?
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880
RV-8 Fuse/Wing QB Kit Delivery Next Week! (Ordered May 20 2008)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator Skin "bowing" and Rudder "Oil Canning" |
Matt:
Thank you for your Matronic Web Site - GREAT help !!!
I have no experience with your "bowing" problem.
Do have a question for you about "Oil Canning" of the Rudder Skin and did you have
the same problem ??
It occurs ONLY on the "right side" of the Rudder Skin: If I press down on the
Rudder Skin between Stiffener 1 and 2, it stays DOWN and between Stiffener 2 and
3 the Skin pops UP and stays popped UP. Pressing down between Stiffener 2
and 3 (Skin stays down) and the Skin between Stiffener 1 and 2 pops up and stays
that way. Acts like the Skin is stretched. Was VERY carefull with the Skin
so as not to damage it during construction.
Not sure if this will effect flight characteristics or is a common problem with
other builders or can be a future fatigue problem. Anybody have any experience
or ideas or knowledge about this ?????
Thanks, Garey Wittich Santa Monica, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Elevator Skin "bowing" and Rudder "Oil Canning" |
At 11:52 AM 8/25/2008 Monday, Garey Wittich wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Garey Wittich
>
>Matt:
>
>Thank you for your Matronic Web Site - GREAT help !!!
>
>I have no experience with your "bowing" problem.
>
>Do have a question for you about "Oil Canning" of the Rudder Skin and did you
have the same problem ??
>
>It occurs ONLY on the "right side" of the Rudder Skin: If I press down on the
Rudder Skin between Stiffener 1 and 2, it stays DOWN and between Stiffener 2
and 3 the Skin pops UP and stays popped UP. Pressing down between Stiffener 2
and 3 (Skin stays down) and the Skin between Stiffener 1 and 2 pops up and stays
that way. Acts like the Skin is stretched. Was VERY carefull with the Skin
so as not to damage it during construction.
>
>Not sure if this will effect flight characteristics or is a common problem with
other builders or can be a future fatigue problem. Anybody have any experience
or ideas or knowledge about this ?????
>
>
>Thanks, Garey Wittich Santa Monica, CA
My rudder doesn't seem to have any of the oil-canning you're talking about. Seems
straight and flat.
Matt
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Dimpling of Elevator Trim Tab Piano Hinge ???? |
Greetings:
Ref: Elevator Trim Tab PIANO HINGE
Anybody have any idea why Vans recommends Dimpling the Elevator Skin, machine countersinking
the Trim Tab Spar and then attaching the Elevator Trim Tab Piano
Hinge ??
Why not dimple the Elevator Skin (per Vans directions), DIMPLE the Trim Tab Spar
and DIMPLE the Piano Hinge ?? This does away with the machine countersinking
the Elev Trim Tab SPAR ????
Just wondering. Thanks, Garey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Dimpling of Elevator Trim Tab Piano Hinge ???? |
The piano hinge cannot be dimpled. The material used to make it does not
dimple well.
The way the plans tell you to do this works well.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (450 hrs)
RV-10 (fuselage)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Garey Wittich
Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2008 5:24 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Dimpling of Elevator Trim Tab Piano Hinge ????
Greetings:
Ref: Elevator Trim Tab PIANO HINGE
Anybody have any idea why Vans recommends Dimpling the Elevator Skin,
machine countersinking the Trim Tab Spar and then attaching the Elevator
Trim Tab Piano Hinge ??
Why not dimple the Elevator Skin (per Vans directions), DIMPLE the Trim Tab
Spar and DIMPLE the Piano Hinge ?? This does away with the machine
countersinking the Elev Trim Tab SPAR ????
Just wondering. Thanks, Garey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Dimpling of Elevator Trim Tab Piano Hinge ???? |
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Garey Wittich
Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2008 5:24 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Dimpling of Elevator Trim Tab Piano Hinge ????
Greetings:
Ref: Elevator Trim Tab PIANO HINGE
Anybody have any idea why Vans recommends Dimpling the Elevator Skin,
machine countersinking the Trim Tab Spar and then attaching the Elevator
Trim Tab Piano Hinge ??
Why not dimple the Elevator Skin (per Vans directions), DIMPLE the Trim Tab
Spar and DIMPLE the Piano Hinge ?? This does away with the machine
countersinking the Elev Trim Tab SPAR ????
Just wondering. Thanks, Garey
Garey: You can dimple the hinge. The material is fairly soft but the
tendency when dimpling is to distort the hinge leaf. It can be difficult to
straighten and the hole spacing can be compromised. Even leaving the hinge
pin in place and the opposing leaf attached is not sufficient if the
dimpling is too rambunctious. There is plenty of material for machine
countersinking.
With regard to your earlier post about panel oilcanning, I have noticed the
problem and have no good explanation for it. I suspect the sequence of
riveting in a long string plays a role and have had best results by starting
to rivet in the center of a long string and working toward each end. At
least you don't chase all the tolerances to one end that way. Perhaps the
way the sheet metal has been handled enters into it. It doesn't take much to
create a tiny stretch in the sheet which could cause such behavior.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | My Interpretation Of Tip Installation... |
Dear Listers,
Today marks the completion of my RV-8 Tail including all of the
fiberglassing and tip installation. I had asked the List a while
back about filling the backs of the tips on the Vert/Horz Stabs and
got some great feedback. I used some hard foam and built a "dam" and
glassed the inside then rapped the outside with tape and filled with
resin/flockedcotton and then sanded it down to the right
size. Worked great and the next time I could do the whole thing in a
couple of days.
Rather than glassing over the whole end of the surface onto the
fiberglass tips, I opted to just mount using screws and platenuts and
only glassed AL-to-tip on the Elevator counterbalances where
necessary. They came out very nice I think with minimal fuss and
muss. Since the Rudder bottom and Fin Top had to be removable for
access to wiring, I decided that I wanted everything to look the same
and so I used the screws and platenuts throughout. Really didn't add
that much weight and allows for tip removal down the road without
paint damage.
The mount for the VOR/GS/LOC antenna on the Vert Stab came out very
nice I think and is very solid.
I definitely learned a lot about fiberglassing in the last couple of
weeks as well as gel-coating.
Lots of pictures attached.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 - N844RV (res)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Light weight RV-8 canopy cover For Sale. Excellent condition.
Steve Glasgow-Cappy
N123SG RV-8
Cappy's Toy
704-362-0005 Home
704-281-7884 Cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Nylon Flap Bolt Interference... |
Dear Listers,
Have a look at the attached photo. The rear predrilled holes for
mounting the flap weldment nylon blocks seems to interfere with the
seatbelt attachment. Am I missing something here? The blocks are
drilled according to the plans and the rear holes are already drilled
and have the platenut installed. Do I just added some washers above
and below and call it good? Seems hokey. Notching the belt attach
also seems like a poor idea.
Thanks,
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N844RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Nylon Flap Bolt Interference... |
No washers.
You may need to trim the nylon block corners a little to get a more snug fit
into the corner so that you clear the seatbelt attachment.
Carl Froehlich
RV8A (450 hrs)
RV-10 (fuselage)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2008 7:40 PM
Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Nylon Flap Bolt Interference...
Dear Listers,
Have a look at the attached photo. The rear predrilled holes for mounting
the flap weldment nylon blocks seems to interfere with the seatbelt
attachment. Am I missing something here? The blocks are drilled according
to the plans and the rear holes are already drilled and have the platenut
installed. Do I just added some washers above and below and call it good?
Seems hokey. Notching the belt attach also seems like a poor idea.
Thanks,
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N844RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ESWAN124(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 09/13/08 |
I have a new, clear, RV-8 Vans Canopy for sale in crate. $350.00
Will deliver to central or southern Florida for cost of fuel.
Earle Swan 941-928-6228
In a message dated 9/14/2008 3:07:41 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
rv8-list(at)matronics.com writes:
*
=================================================
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
=================================================
Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the
two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter=2
008-09-13&Archive=RV8
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter
08-09-13&Archive=RV8
===============================================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
===============================================
----------------------------------------------------------
RV8-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Sat 09/13/08: 1
----------------------------------------------------------
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:40 PM - RV-8 Nylon Flap Bolt Interference... (Matt Dralle)
________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Nylon Flap Bolt Interference...
Dear Listers,
Have a look at the attached photo. The rear predrilled holes for
mounting the flap weldment nylon blocks seems to interfere with the
seatbelt attachment. Am I missing something here? The blocks are
drilled according to the plans and the rear holes are already drilled
and have the platenut installed. Do I just added some washers above
and below and call it good? Seems hokey. Notching the belt attach
also seems like a poor idea.
Thanks,
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N844RV
**************Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog,
plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com.
(http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Picture Source... |
Does anyone know where this picture came from off the Van's web site? I'd love
to get some other shots of this particular aircraft as I want to paint my RV-8
the same color.
Thanks for any leads...
Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andrew M Morgan" <amorgan53(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Picture Source... |
not sure this is the same one (probably not), but
something similar
http://www.lazy8.net/rv8.html
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Friday, September 19, 2008 10:46 AM
Subject: RV8-List: Picture Source...
Does anyone know where this picture came from off the Van's web site? I'd
love to get some other shots of this particular aircraft as I want to paint
my RV-8 the same color.
Thanks for any leads...
Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mitch Black" <mitch1(at)goldstate.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Picture Source... |
Matt,
Maybe it's this fellows.
http://www.lazy8.net/rv8.html
Good Luck,
Mitch Black
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Friday, September 19, 2008 8:46 AM
Subject: RV8-List: Picture Source...
>
>
> Does anyone know where this picture came from off the Van's web site? I'd
> love to get some other shots of this particular aircraft as I want to
> paint my RV-8 the same color.
>
> Thanks for any leads...
>
> Matt
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Speed 3 Guy" <speed3guy(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Picture Source... |
That's Paul Schattauer's RV-8, N808PS. I believe he's a subscriber to the
list.
G
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Friday, September 19, 2008 9:46 AM
Subject: RV8-List: Picture Source...
Does anyone know where this picture came from off the Van's web site? I'd
love to get some other shots of this particular aircraft as I want to paint
my RV-8 the same color.
Thanks for any leads...
Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Schattauer <chasm711(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Picture Source... |
Hi
That is my RV8 on Vans web site. Thanks for the compliments=2C I kinda lik
e it too. The base color is from a 2004 Ford mustang and is called firemis
t red and costs (in 2004) $600+ a gallon and takes 2.5 gallons to paint an
RV8=2C +primer+clearcoat. Google N808PS and click on jetphotos for an even
better picture.
Paul Schattauer
N808PS
> From: speed3guy(at)comcast.net
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV8-List: Picture Source...
> Date: Fri=2C 19 Sep 2008 18:37:02 -0600
>
>
> That's Paul Schattauer's RV-8=2C N808PS. I believe he's a subscriber to
the
> list.
>
> G
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
> Sent: Friday=2C September 19=2C 2008 9:46 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com=3B rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Picture Source...
>
>
>
> Does anyone know where this picture came from off the Van's web site? I'
d
> love to get some other shots of this particular aircraft as I want to pai
nt
> my RV-8 the same color.
>
> Thanks for any leads...
>
> Matt
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Schattauer <chasm711(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Picture Source... |
Hi Matt
That is my RV8 on Vans web site. If you need any info my email is chasm711
@msn.com
Paul
> Date: Fri=2C 19 Sep 2008 08:46:08 -0700
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com=3B rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> From: dralle(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Picture Source...
>
>
>
> Does anyone know where this picture came from off the Van's web site? I'
d love to get some other shots of this particular aircraft as I want to pai
nt my RV-8 the same color.
>
> Thanks for any leads...
>
> Matt
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Worley" <worley42(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Picture Source... |
A friend painted his -8 a similar color that is used on late model Dodges.
Price may be a little lower for the paint.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Friday, September 19, 2008 11:46 AM
Subject: RV8-List: Picture Source...
>
>
> Does anyone know where this picture came from off the Van's web site? I'd
> love to get some other shots of this particular aircraft as I want to
> paint my RV-8 the same color.
>
> Thanks for any leads...
>
> Matt
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 "Curved Control Stick" Option...? |
Greetings,
I sat in a friend's RV-8 this weekend and was testing out the various ergonomic
aspects. One thing that struck me was the pilot's control stick placement.
It seemed a bit far away and definitely way too low. The top of the stick cleared
the bottom of the instrument panel by maybe an inch or less, so it was definitely
about as long as it could be. The seat cushion didn't seem abnormally
thick.
When I ordered my seats from Classic Aero Designs, one of the questions they asked
me was if I had the "Curved Stick Option". I didn't think about it much at
the time but now I'm intrigued. Is this something that could give me more stick
height without impacting the instrument panel? Does Van's sell it? Part
number? Pros and cons? Pictures?
Thanks,
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 "Curved Control Stick" Option...? |
Matt,
For awhile an RV-8 builder named Todd here near Everett was bending sticks
for RV-8's. I think at the time he wanted a new, unbent and full length
stick. He put an S bend in it, bringing the grip back maybe an inch or so.
You could probably find him in the archives as he used to be on this list.
If my brain ever gets up to 80% this morning I will give you the rest of his
name and his old email address. Rudberg, Todd Rudberg! Here are a couple
of the email addresses I have for him: todd(at)rvwood.com; todd(at)acubedllc.com.
Here's a link to his website where he says he is not going to make them
anymore: http://www.rvwoody.com/
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2008 8:53 AM
Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 "Curved Control Stick" Option...?
Greetings,
I sat in a friend's RV-8 this weekend and was testing out the various
ergonomic aspects. One thing that struck me was the pilot's control stick
placement. It seemed a bit far away and definitely way too low. The top of
the stick cleared the bottom of the instrument panel by maybe an inch or
less, so it was definitely about as long as it could be. The seat cushion
didn't seem abnormally thick.
When I ordered my seats from Classic Aero Designs, one of the questions they
asked me was if I had the "Curved Stick Option". I didn't think about it
much at the time but now I'm intrigued. Is this something that could give
me more stick height without impacting the instrument panel? Does Van's
sell it? Part number? Pros and cons? Pictures?
Thanks,
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Slaughter" <willslau(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | RV-8 "Curved Control Stick" Option...? |
I have one of the curved sticks, and it serves to move the grip aft. It does
not offer any increase in available stick height (quite the opposite
actually). Try sitting in the 8 again with your forearm resting on your leg
and holding the stick only with your thumb and index finger. That's all you
need the vast majority of the time. At cruise speeds it's just a matter of
stick pressure, not stick movement. Anybody with a tube bender could
replicate the part.
Will Slaughter
RV-8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2008 10:53 AM
Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 "Curved Control Stick" Option...?
Greetings,
I sat in a friend's RV-8 this weekend and was testing out the various
ergonomic aspects. One thing that struck me was the pilot's control stick
placement. It seemed a bit far away and definitely way too low. The top of
the stick cleared the bottom of the instrument panel by maybe an inch or
less, so it was definitely about as long as it could be. The seat cushion
didn't seem abnormally thick.
When I ordered my seats from Classic Aero Designs, one of the questions they
asked me was if I had the "Curved Stick Option". I didn't think about it
much at the time but now I'm intrigued. Is this something that could give
me more stick height without impacting the instrument panel? Does Van's
sell it? Part number? Pros and cons? Pictures?
Thanks,
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 "Curved Control Stick" Option...? |
Matt,
I bought my bent stick from Todd in '04 and had to beg him to make one then.
He was winding down his stick bending operation because it was taking too
much time.
You could probably bend your own and I suspect he would tell you how to do
it.
I understand you fill the stick with sand before bending so as to not create
dimples at the bends.
Mine offsets the stick grip to the rear about an inch or so but does not
create any additional panel clearance. My stick grip clears the panel by only
1/8" or so. I used that little clearance because guys flying 8s told me that
you never use that much forward stick during flight, so I wasn't worried
about fitting my thumb between the stick and panel.
I lost my early photos of the bent stick, but you can see a recent photo on
my web site at _http://www.rv-8a.net/2007.htm_ (http://www.rv-8a.net/2007.htm)
and scroll down to 28 Jun 07.
Stan Sutterfield
**************Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial
challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and
calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Bakerseal Or EZTurn? |
What are the pros and cons of Bakerseal vs. EZTurn for installing all
of the AN Blue fittings? I've got some of both and am about to do
the fittings for the fuel filter and fuel pump. They definitely have
different consistences - Bakerseal is kind of caulky and thick, and
EZTurn is kind of smooth and sticky like tooth paste. Van's says,
"either one". What's the common feeling on these products?
I assume that you just gunk some nicely on the end of the fitting and
then screw it tightly into the other part and wipe up the excess?
What about the flared fittings? Do you put it on the inside of the
flare too, or just the threads for the nut?
Thanks for the help!
Matt
RV-8 #82880
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tom.gregorski(at)juno.com" <tom.gregorski(at)juno.com> |
I have some friends looking for a RV8 QB project to complete. Anybody ready to
sell theirs (preferably on the east coast)? Thanks, Tom tom.gregorski(at)juno.com
____________________________________________________________
Click for information on obtaining a VA loan.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3m3mWH4Ly6VNR3sztD8rv0WE72uOP06hUu1fR53JBMFpFOCo/
________________________________________________________________________________
We have an RV-8 from by father-in-laws estate that is 80-85% complete.
200 HP IO360 & constant speed Hartzell prop already installed, panel is
completed and installed and includes Dynon EFIS (already sent back for
bright screen update), Garmin 430 with GS and TXP and TruTrac autopilot
coupled to 430 with alt hold. Wings and emprennage are already painted.
It has not been advertised as yet, we are planning to start marketining
the RV in a week or so, we are working on currently selling his Christen
Eagle.
The aircraft is located in Columbus, Ohio.
For more information or pictures contact Don - email:
stewart@basa-ohio.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
tom.gregorski(at)juno.com
Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2008 8:41 AM
Subject: RV8-List: RV8 QB Project
-->
I have some friends looking for a RV8 QB project to complete. Anybody
ready to sell theirs (preferably on the east coast)? Thanks, Tom
tom.gregorski(at)juno.com
____________________________________________________________
Click for information on obtaining a VA loan.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3m3mWH4Ly6VNR3sztD8rv0
WE72uOP06hUu1fR53JBMFpFOCo/
________________________________________________________________________________
Since posting this reply to a request for an RV8 project this morning
the project has been sold.
Thank you to those of you that replied so promptly.
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don Stewart
Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2008 9:00 AM
Subject: RE: RV8-List: RV8 QB Project
We have an RV-8 from by father-in-laws estate that is 80-85% complete.
200 HP IO360 & constant speed Hartzell prop already installed, panel is
completed and installed and includes Dynon EFIS (already sent back for
bright screen update), Garmin 430 with GS and TXP and TruTrac autopilot
coupled to 430 with alt hold. Wings and emprennage are already painted.
It has not been advertised as yet, we are planning to start marketining
the RV in a week or so, we are working on currently selling his Christen
Eagle.
The aircraft is located in Columbus, Ohio.
For more information or pictures contact Don - email:
stewart@basa-ohio.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
tom.gregorski(at)juno.com
Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2008 8:41 AM
Subject: RV8-List: RV8 QB Project
-->
I have some friends looking for a RV8 QB project to complete. Anybody
ready to sell theirs (preferably on the east coast)? Thanks, Tom
tom.gregorski(at)juno.com
____________________________________________________________
Click for information on obtaining a VA loan.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3m3mWH4Ly6VNR3sztD8rv0
WE72uOP06hUu1fR53JBMFpFOCo/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | New Grove RV-8 Airfoiled Landing Gear Arrive... |
I thought some might be interested in seeing exactly what the Grove
Aluminum Airfoiled landing gear for the RV-8 look like. They are a
work of art! Very beautiful indeed. Notice the predrilled holes for
the brake lines.
They're not cheap, but they are really very nice. The weight savings
forward of the CG is certainly something to consider as well. Any
any decrease in fiberglass work is worth the price of admission, in
my book... ;-)
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "edward Clegg" <edwclg(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Grove RV-8 Airfoiled Landing Gear Arrive... |
Hi,
I used these on my 8 and am quite pleased. N542E has 61 hours now since
April 11th.
Best to All,
Ed Clegg
On 10/2/08, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>
> I thought some might be interested in seeing exactly what the Grove
> Aluminum Airfoiled landing gear for the RV-8 look like. They are a work of
> art! Very beautiful indeed. Notice the predrilled holes for the brake
> lines.
>
> They're not cheap, but they are really very nice. The weight savings
> forward of the CG is certainly something to consider as well. Any any
> decrease in fiberglass work is worth the price of admission, in my book...
> ;-)
>
> Best regards,
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | manuel weber <flyinwithme99(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bakerseal Or EZTurn? |
Be careful lubricating aluminum flare "B" nut unions....no lubricant is nec
essary and I personally do not recommend it.- Over torquing of the assy i
s more possible where all you need is good clean dry threads and clean smoo
th flares.
--- On Wed, 10/1/08, Matt Dralle wrote:
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Bakerseal Or EZTurn?
Date: Wednesday, October 1, 2008, 9:22 PM
What are the pros and cons of Bakerseal vs. EZTurn for installing all
of the AN Blue fittings? I've got some of both and am about to do
the fittings for the fuel filter and fuel pump. They definitely have
different consistences - Bakerseal is kind of caulky and thick, and
EZTurn is kind of smooth and sticky like tooth paste. Van's says,
"either one". What's the common feeling on these products?
I assume that you just gunk some nicely on the end of the fitting and
then screw it tightly into the other part and wipe up the excess?
What about the flared fittings? Do you put it on the inside of the
flare too, or just the threads for the nut?
Thanks for the help!
Matt
RV-8 #82880
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV8 : [ Terry McMillan ] : New Email List PhotoShare Available! |
| From: | Email List PhotoShares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
(Listers - Sorry for the delay in processing this Photoshare; all of the incoming
Photoshares where getting caught by my email client's spam filter. I wondered
why nobody had posted a Photoshare in a long while... I've fixed the filter
and Photoshares should be processed in a normal period of time now. -Matt)
A new Email List PhotoShare is available:
Poster: Terry McMillan
Lists: AeroElectric-list,RV-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV10-List,RV9-List
Subject: Dual Battery System
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/terryml5c2p6@sympatico.ca.10.06.2008
----------------------------------------------------------
o Main PhotoShare Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a PhotoShare
If you wish to submit a PhotoShare of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
----------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Inman 204 287 8334 <ghinman(at)mts.net> |
| Subject: | Thin washers under bolts on gear tower |
I have the RV-8 QB
The quick builders put thin washers under the head of the bolts that
fasten the gear bolt weldment to the tower (see dwg 24 F802)
The drawing does not call for the washers,and it seems to make the
AN3-5A
bolt too short. Can others with RV-8 QB check theirs and see if it the same?
--
George H. Inman
ghinman(at)mts.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Misplaced Dimple Hole where Skin Stiffener SURFACE contacts |
the Skin
Greetings:
Found no answer to this in Matronics archieves.
While dimpling the Elev Skin accidently punched a hole and made a dimple about
1/8" from the desired location where the Skin Stiffener SURFACE MEETS THE SKIN.
(Stiffener was previously drilled / dimpled.) I "gently' flattened the misplaced
dimple with minimum thinning of the Skin - very slight dimple remains.
Then dimpled the desired rivet hole. The 2 dimples (desired and the flattened
undesired dimple) slightly over lap at their outer edges. Took a #49 drill and
drilled the undesired dimple hole to relieve MOST of the Skin cracking at the
hole edges.
Question: Any suggestion on how to prevent possible "future" cracking of the Skin
where the undesired dimple is ?? Use RTV to fill the hole from the Bottom
Side and Super Fil to cosmetically fill in the Top Side of the Skin ?? (Do not
believe RTV can be painted over - otherwise would use RTV on both sides ??)
Appreciate suggestions, Garey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Use Miniature Toggle Switches for Mag Grounding ??? |
Plan to use C&K 7000 Series miniature ( 1/4" size ) "LOCKING Toggle Switches for
Mag grounding as Panel space is limited on the RV-8A.
Anybody have EXPERIENCE using miniature toggle switches (made by C&K, Alco Switch,
etc.) ???? Were they reliable in this application ???
If so, what Mfg / Part # did you use ??
Thanks, Garey Santa Monica, CA (310) 392-1682
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Misplaced Dimple Hole where Skin Stiffener SURFACE contacts |
the Skin
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Garey, sorry you messed up, but it won't be the last. I to have made a few extra
holes and dimples. Unless it is structural what I did was install a short flush
rivet and let it go. Sometimes you can make a bigger mess attempting to correct
a flaw then just to plug and move on. There may be a "perfect" plane out
there, but I doubt it. Good Luck, Bill of Georgia RV-8a finishing kit??
-----Original Message-----
From: Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Thu, 16 Oct 2008 2:35 pm
Subject: RV8-List: Misplaced Dimple Hole where Skin Stiffener SURFACE contacts
the Skin
Greetings:
Found no answer to this in Matronics archieves.
While dimpling the Elev Skin accidently punched a hole and made a dimple about
1/8" from the desired location where the Skin Stiffener SURFACE MEETS THE SKIN.
(Stiffener was previously drilled / dimpled.) I "gently' flattened the
misplaced dimple with minimum thinning of the Skin - very slight dimple remains.
Then dimpled the desired rivet hole. The 2 dimples (desired and the flattened
undesired dimple) slightly over lap at their outer edges. Took a #49 drill and
drilled the undesired dimple hole to relieve MOST of the Skin cracking at the
hole edges.
Question: Any suggestion on how to prevent possible "future" cracking of the
Skin where the undesired dimple is ?? Use RTV to fill the hole from the Bottom
Side and Super Fil to cosmetically fill in the Top Side of the Skin ?? (Do not
believe RTV can be painted over - otherwise would use RTV on both sides ??)
Appreciate suggestions, Garey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Misplaced Dimple Hole where Skin Stiffener SURFACE contacts |
Hi Garey-
I would have suggested to do as Bill did, and just put a flush rivet in the
extra hole. Having already oversized the hole, I'd recommend removing all
the cracked material, assembling the structure, and then filling the hole
with a dryish mix of epoxy / micro balloons. Properly filled and sanded,
you'll never be able to tell there was an 'oops' there.
glen matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
> Subject: RV8-List: Misplaced Dimple Hole where Skin Stiffener SURFACE
contacts
> the Skin
>
>
> Greetings:
>
> Found no answer to this in Matronics archieves.
>
> While dimpling the Elev Skin accidently punched a hole and made a dimple
about
> 1/8" from the desired location where the Skin Stiffener SURFACE MEETS THE
SKIN.
> (Stiffener was previously drilled / dimpled.) I "gently' flattened the
misplaced
> dimple with minimum thinning of the Skin - very slight dimple remains.
> Then dimpled the desired rivet hole. The 2 dimples (desired and the
flattened
> undesired dimple) slightly over lap at their outer edges. Took a #49
drill and
> drilled the undesired dimple hole to relieve MOST of the Skin cracking at
the
> hole edges.
>
> Question: Any suggestion on how to prevent possible "future" cracking of
the Skin
> where the undesired dimple is ?? Use RTV to fill the hole from the Bottom
> Side and Super Fil to cosmetically fill in the Top Side of the Skin ??
(Do not
> believe RTV can be painted over - otherwise would use RTV on both sides
??)
>
> Appreciate suggestions, Garey
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Use Miniature Toggle Switches for Mag Grounding ??? |
Hi Garey-
Although I've not flown yet, I've installed 1/4" Alco gated (locking) DPDT
toggle switches for my ignitions. By spec, they should be fine in this
application. I was able to get a whole box of them off ebay for pretty
cheap, so if there should be a durability issue, they will be very easy /
cost effective to replace. Also, being DPDT, I will be able to replace my
dual mag with a Pmag, when it comes available, without doing any rewiring.
I'll just need to rotate the switches 180 degrees in their mounting holes.
Also, being DPDT, i was able to create an interlock that requires my #1
ignition and standby EFIS to be off before the starter can be engaged. For
me at least, these have proven to be very versatile components.
FWIW-
> Subject: RV8-List: Use Miniature Toggle Switches for Mag Grounding ???
>
>
> Plan to use C&K 7000 Series miniature ( 1/4" size ) "LOCKING Toggle
Switches for
> Mag grounding as Panel space is limited on the RV-8A.
>
> Anybody have EXPERIENCE using miniature toggle switches (made by C&K,
Alco Switch,
> etc.) ???? Were they reliable in this application ???
>
> If so, what Mfg / Part # did you use ??
>
> Thanks, Garey Santa Monica, CA (310) 392-1682
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | FW: RE: Use Miniature Toggle Switches for Mag Grounding ??? |
Whupps- those are ALCO MTL206N switches I used. They are PC mount,
meaning the electrical connection lugs are configured for soldering into
printed circuit boards. These lend themselves very nicely to soldering the
wires to the lugs and covering with heat shrink tubing.
glen matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
> [Original Message]
> From: glen matejcek <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
> To: RV8-List Digest Server
> Date: 10/17/2008 10:00:10 AM
> Subject: RE: Use Miniature Toggle Switches for Mag Grounding ???
>
> Hi Garey-
>
> Although I've not flown yet, I've installed 1/4" Alco gated (locking)
DPDT toggle switches for my ignitions. By spec, they should be fine in
this application. I was able to get a whole box of them off ebay for
pretty cheap, so if there should be a durability issue, they will be very
easy / cost effective to replace. Also, being DPDT, I will be able to
replace my dual mag with a Pmag, when it comes available, without doing any
rewiring. I'll just need to rotate the switches 180 degrees in their
mounting holes. Also, being DPDT, i was able to create an interlock that
requires my #1 ignition and standby EFIS to be off before the starter can
be engaged. For me at least, these have proven to be very versatile
components.
>
> FWIW-
>
> > Subject: RV8-List: Use Miniature Toggle Switches for Mag Grounding ???
> >
> >
> > Plan to use C&K 7000 Series miniature ( 1/4" size ) "LOCKING Toggle
Switches for
> > Mag grounding as Panel space is limited on the RV-8A.
> >
> > Anybody have EXPERIENCE using miniature toggle switches (made by C&K,
Alco Switch,
> > etc.) ???? Were they reliable in this application ???
> >
> > If so, what Mfg / Part # did you use ??
> >
> > Thanks, Garey Santa Monica, CA (310) 392-1682
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Interior Painting - Powercoating? When? |
Fellow RV-er's,
There is a powercoating shop here in my town that has an oven large enough to put
my whole RV-8 fuselage into it. I've been considering just having the whole
inside powercoated for the durability, and sweet look. Lots of guys powercoat
the instrument panel and obviously most of the steel parts come from Van's
powercoated. But what are the upsides and downsides of powercoating all of the
interior parts. I've used Variprime on most of the backsides of the interior
parts, but I've left the occupant facing parts bare in prep for the powercoating.
Will the powercoat chip off easily on the bend-y pieces?
And when's the right time to take it down to the powercoaters? I would like to
have most things riveted that need riveting before the coating like the forward
deck over the instrument panel and the aft turtledeck, but these get riveted
on pretty late in the building process. I would like to have all of the wiring
and controls installed or at least fabbed and trial fitted before coating
to avoid scratches. But again, once things are wired, is coating going to make
a mess? Its not like the harnesses can really be removed once their installed...
The other concern is the heat necessary to bake on the powercoating. I think its
upwards of 450 degrees F. What impact will that temperature have on the various
parts that go into the fuselage such as the aeronuts, plastic bushings,
clamps, etc?
I'm in quite a dilemma over this. I really want to wait as long as possible to
avoid scratches and chips in the powercoating, but I don't want to wait too long
and not be able to disassemble things to the point of making a good looking
job. For example, the rear floor boards should probably be riveted down, but
any screwed in panels should be removed. But riveting the floorboards is something
I'd probably prefer to do the day before test flying...
Thanks for any insight...
Matt Dralle
RV-8 # 82880
Trutrak Auto Pilot Servo and Aileron Electric Trim Install
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Sources For Variprime... |
Dear Listers,
I made a trip over to FinishMasters a couple of weeks ago for some painting supplies.
I've traditionally also purchased my Variprime from these guys as they
are an auto-paint store.
On this last visit, I asked where the Variprime was and was told that "it is no
longer available". It that really true? I love Variprime; it goes on easy and
is thin enough to make a light protective coat with very little build up.
I'm sure there are other primers that are just as good but I'd just assoon stick
with what I know at this point. I have about 1/3 of a gallon left which might
get me through the rest RV-8 project I've got going, but maybe not. It would
be nice to find another supplier.
Thanks in advance for the tips...
Matt Dralle
RV-8 # 82880
Trutrak Auto Pilot Servo and Aileron Electric Trim Install
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 - TruTrak Auto Pilot Roll Servo... |
Installation of the roll servo for the TruTrak autopilot was pretty straight forward.
The system seems to work well and doesn't add any noticeable drag to the
aileron stick forces. Fortunately, it just fit in with the Electric Aileron
trim setup. I actually had to move the control horn on the stick column forward
about 1/8" to assure that there wasn't any interference between the rod end
bolt and the left spring. Seems two work fine and there is no binding or rubbing
of any kind. Sweet.
Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Heath Cherneski" <heath.cherneski(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 - TruTrak Auto Pilot Roll Servo... |
Matt,
Make sure you check clearance on the floor panel that will cover the area
that houses the servo. I had to significantly trim one of the support
braces on this floor panel. I am at the office and do not have the part
numbers in front of me, but the servo arm necessitated removal of about two
inches of brace material. If I get a chance, I will take some pictures and
post them. Good luck.
Heath Cherneski
heath.cherneski(at)gmail.com
hchernes(at)utsi.edu
heath.cherneski(at)us.army.mil
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Monday, October 20, 2008 10:07 PM
Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 - TruTrak Auto Pilot Roll Servo...
Installation of the roll servo for the TruTrak autopilot was pretty straight
forward. The system seems to work well and doesn't add any noticeable drag
to the aileron stick forces. Fortunately, it just fit in with the Electric
Aileron trim setup. I actually had to move the control horn on the stick
column forward about 1/8" to assure that there wasn't any interference
between the rod end bolt and the left spring. Seems two work fine and there
is no binding or rubbing of any kind. Sweet.
Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 - TruTrak Auto Pilot Roll Servo... |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Matt, looks good. Have you considered whether the seat pan flex's down any? Will
the swing arm clear the bottom of the seat pan with a heavy fellow on one butt
cheek? Best regards, Bill (canopy & skirts all summer)
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 11:07 pm
Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 - TruTrak Auto Pilot Roll Servo...
Installation of the roll servo for the TruTrak autopilot was pretty straight
forward. The system seems to work well and doesn't add any noticeable drag to
the aileron stick forces. Fortunately, it just fit in with the Electric Aileron
trim setup. I actually had to move the control horn on the stick column forward
about 1/8" to assure that there wasn't any interference between the rod end bolt
and the left spring. Seems two work fine and there is no binding or rubbing of
any kind. Sweet.
Matt
[Image Removed]
[Image Removed]
[Image Removed]
[Image Removed]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
I recently broke my canopy after I made the final cut to fit it to the
fuselage. Long story short - I put too much pressure on the side while lifting
it
and it broke.
I'm planning to buy a new one from Todd's Canopies. He has two options -
clear and tinted. But, his tinted version is darker than the Van's tinted
version - which was just right.
I need your advice if you have a Todd's canopy.
Only about 5% of my flying will be night flying, but when I fly at night, I
like to see well - I'm putting lots of landing and taxi lights on my RV-8.
But, my daytime flying may be too hot if I use a clear canopy. The optics are
best on the clear canopy.
If you have a Todd's canopy, please give me your advice on whether or not
the tinted canopy is too dark for night flying.
Thanks,
Stan Sutterfield
**************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination.
Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out
(http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DONKEYVET(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Broken Canopy |
Stan,
I'm about a week away from finishing my RV-8 and built it with his medium
tint Todd's canopy. He also offers one, as you probably know, which is much
darker...too dark to even see inside. I haven't flown my plane but have rolled
it out in the dark and it seems plenty translucent for my comfort level. I did
get one of his samples and held it up to my eyes while in my car at night
and it also seemed fine for driving. B.T.W. a plug for Todd, his word is good.
He promised to replace a canopy if I broke it and that's just exactly what
he did. I feel your pain man!!! I broke mine while using the provided pop
rivits to install it. One pulled through the drilled hole in the frame and
expanded in the canopy...ouch! On my second one I used a few screws and sikaflex.
Worked great! My two cents worth...
Dennis Flosi
N963DF
El Paso, TX
**************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination.
Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out
(http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ALBERT THOMAS <althomas454(at)msn.com> |
Stan=2C
I have a clear Todd's Canopy. I'd recommend the clear unless you live in pl
aces with extreme heat. With the clear you give up some sun/heat protection
during the day but your twilight and night visibility with the clear canop
y is much better. Besides=2C you can always add a removable shade cover (e.
g. http://www.kwikshade.com/index.html ) to the top of a clear canopy for t
hose hot summer days. You can't add a clear area to a tinted canopy!
Al Thomas
N880AT
RV-8A QB
final misc. stuff
From: Speedy11(at)aol.comDate: Tue=2C 21 Oct 2008 20:09:28 -0400Subject: RV8-L
ist: Broken CanopyTo: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
I recently broke my canopy after I made the final cut to fit it to the fuse
lage. Long story short - I put too much pressure on the side while lifting
it and it broke.
I'm planning to buy a new one from Todd's Canopies. He has two options - c
lear and tinted. But=2C his tinted version is darker than the Van's tinted
version - which was just right.
I need your advice if you have a Todd's canopy.
Only about 5% of my flying will be night flying=2C but when I fly at night
=2C I like to see well - I'm putting lots of landing and taxi lights on my
RV-8. But=2C my daytime flying may be too hot if I use a clear canopy. Th
e optics are best on the clear canopy.
If you have a Todd's canopy=2C please give me your advice on whether or not
the tinted canopy is too dark for night flying.
Thanks=2C
Stan Sutterfield
New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining=2C Mo
vies=2C Eventsx1200669822/aol?redir=http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=eml
cntnew00000002">Try it out!
_________________________________________________________________
Store=2C manage and share up to 5GB with Windows Live SkyDrive.
http://skydrive.live.com/welcome.aspx?provision=1?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_sky
drive_102008
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | TruTrak Servo Installs - Updated... |
Based on feedback from the List, I made some minor modifications to the TruTrak
servo installation for both the Pitch and Roll axis, primarily having to do with
making sure that there was at least a thread or two sticking outside the nylon
insert side of the lock nuts. I also removed one of the fender washers from
the Roll servo on the arm side which pushed the alignment of the pushrod to
nearly perfectly perpendicular to the control column horn.
I also installed the front seat pan skin and put all of my weight on it and the
grabbed a picture using a mirror. There is a good 1/8" of clearance with full
weight applied AND full right stick applied which puts the arm at the high point.
There was no interference with any of the stiffeners on the underside of
the seat pan fortunately.
Thanks for all the great feedback!
Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Fresh Air Duct Routing... |
Dear Listers,
What is the consensus on routing the front fresh air ducts? I added an optional
right side SV-1 NACA vent too. Looking at where to route the 2" duct seems
to be either down and around the gear tower and second bulkhead, kind of directly
in the foot/leg area, or just to go directly through the second bulkhead.
The later would require a couple of lightening holes punched in the bulkhead.
I'm not sure this is kosher, though. Thoughts?
I just realized that adding that right-side NACA vent kind of limits the utility
of baggage area, now doesn't it...? I thought that Van's didn't punch the right
side as a part of the "keep it under 50%" rule that I keep running into...
Well, at least I'll have lots of fresh air!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 # 82880
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Throttle control location |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Dear list,
Does anyone place their throttle quadrant on the right side
while controlling the stick with their left? I can't remember if I have
seem any set up this way. My 6A and -10 are both set up right hand
throttle but my -4 and the 8's seem to be the reverse. I have no problem
flying the plane with either hand but prefer manipulating the EFIS /
radios with the right hand while holding the stick. I don't understand
why this would not be the preferred way to set up the controls for us
righties...
Robin
RV-4 Sold
RV-6A 440 Hours
RV-10 20 Hours
RV-8A Oh Boy...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Throttle control location |
Robin -
I put a left-hand quadrant in my -7. I'll send you some photos when I recover
my data from my latest adventure with Vista...
neal
-------------- Original message from "Robin Marks" : --------------
>
> Dear list,
> Does anyone place their throttle quadrant on the right side
> while controlling the stick with their left? I can't remember if I have
>
> Robin
> RV-4 Sold
> RV-6A 440 Hours
> RV-10 20 Hours
> RV-8A Oh Boy...
>
Robin -
I put a left-hand quadrant in my -7. I'll send you some photos when I
recover my data from my latest adventure with Vista...
neal
-------------- Original message from "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>:
--------------
> --> RV8-List message posted by: "Robin Marks"
>
> Dear list,
> Does anyone
place their throttle quadrant on the right side
> while controlling the
stick with their left? I can't remember if I have
>
> Robin
>
RV-4 Sold
> RV-6A 440 Hours
> RV-10 20 Hours
> RV-8A
Oh Boy...
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don McNamara" <N8RV(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fresh Air Duct Routing... |
Matt, most people I've talked to about fresh air concerns claim that there's
an abundance of fresh air that comes through the two planned routes.
Additional air sources seem to not be needed. Plus, as you already
mentioned, you lose valuable baggage space.
If there's one thing I've learned (the hard way) from 12+ years of building,
it's that the designers at Van's aren't dummies. If the plans call for one
thing and not another, there's always a reason. I've tried to change things
because I thought I had a better idea, and I've always learned that I'm
wrong and Van's is right. Admittedly, I'm not the sharpest knife in the
drawer, either.
Good luck. Looks like you're coming along nicely.
-- Don McNamara
N8RV
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2008 12:33 AM
Subject: RV8-List: Fresh Air Duct Routing...
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> What is the consensus on routing the front fresh air ducts? I added an
> optional right side SV-1 NACA vent too. Looking at where to route the 2"
> duct seems to be either down and around the gear tower and second
> bulkhead, kind of directly in the foot/leg area, or just to go directly
> through the second bulkhead. The later would require a couple of
> lightening holes punched in the bulkhead. I'm not sure this is kosher,
> though. Thoughts?
>
> I just realized that adding that right-side NACA vent kind of limits the
> utility of baggage area, now doesn't it...? I thought that Van's didn't
> punch the right side as a part of the "keep it under 50%" rule that I keep
> running into... Well, at least I'll have lots of fresh air!
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 # 82880
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don McNamara" <N8RV(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: TruTrak Servo Installs - Updated... |
Also, Matt, what's that gizmo attached to your pitch servo? I have a TT
system as well, but don't have that rectangular thing with a wire for my
control arm ...
-- Don
N8RV
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2008 10:43 PM
Subject: RV8-List: TruTrak Servo Installs - Updated...
> Based on feedback from the List, I made some minor modifications to the
> TruTrak servo installation for both the Pitch and Roll axis, primarily
> having to do with making sure that there was at least a thread or two
> sticking outside the nylon insert side of the lock nuts. I also removed
> one of the fender washers from the Roll servo on the arm side which pushed
> the alignment of the pushrod to nearly perfectly perpendicular to the
> control column horn.
>
> I also installed the front seat pan skin and put all of my weight on it
> and the grabbed a picture using a mirror. There is a good 1/8" of
> clearance with full weight applied AND full right stick applied which puts
> the arm at the high point. There was no interference with any of the
> stiffeners on the underside of the seat pan fortunately.
>
> Thanks for all the great feedback!
>
> Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List Digest: 8 Msgs - 10/21/08 |
Hi Stan-
I went thought the same exact process and questions, and finally got some
scrap samples, as one of the other listers mentioned. Driving around the
neighborhood at night with them was fine, as was sitting in the plane at
night in the driveway once the new canopy was on. When you think about it,
the glass we fly behind every day is really tinted, and poses no issue.
Todd's tinted is the way to go- Plus, you can get a little more internal
volume under a todd's canopy ;-)
glen matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
> From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Broken Canopy
>
> I recently broke my canopy after I made the final cut to fit it to the
> fuselage. Long story short - I put too much pressure on the side while
lifting
> it
> and it broke.
> I'm planning to buy a new one from Todd's Canopies. He has two options
-
> clear and tinted. But, his tinted version is darker than the Van's
tinted
> version - which was just right.
> I need your advice if you have a Todd's canopy.
> Only about 5% of my flying will be night flying, but when I fly at night,
I
> like to see well - I'm putting lots of landing and taxi lights on my
RV-8.
> But, my daytime flying may be too hot if I use a clear canopy. The
optics are
>
> best on the clear canopy.
> If you have a Todd's canopy, please give me your advice on whether or not
> the tinted canopy is too dark for night flying.
> Thanks,
> Stan Sutterfield
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | manuel weber <flyinwithme99(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fresh Air Duct Routing... |
My LH fresh air scat duct runs through-a partition that I built-in the
LH footwell area,-(just like the partition on the-RH side that creates
the lower baggage area).- I cut a hole in the upper portion of the fabric
ated partition, and ran the hose through it and around the inboard side of
the LH gear tower, then up to the eyeball vent in the LH outermost portion
of the instrument panel.
-
I would not cut any holes of this size in the gear tower.
-
--- On Tue, 10/21/08, Matt Dralle wrote:
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Fresh Air Duct Routing...
Date: Tuesday, October 21, 2008, 11:33 PM
Dear Listers,
What is the consensus on routing the front fresh air ducts? I added an
optional right side SV-1 NACA vent too. Looking at where to route the 2"
duct seems to be either down and around the gear tower and second bulkhead,
kind
of directly in the foot/leg area, or just to go directly through the second
bulkhead. The later would require a couple of lightening holes punched in
the
bulkhead. I'm not sure this is kosher, though. Thoughts?
I just realized that adding that right-side NACA vent kind of limits the
utility of baggage area, now doesn't it...? I thought that Van's
didn't punch the right side as a part of the "keep it under 50%"
rule that I keep running into... Well, at least I'll have lots of fresh
air!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 # 82880=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle control location |
Robin,
I've never seen a RV-8 with a right side throttle. In fact, I can't think
of any tandem seat aircraft I've ever seen with a right side throttle.
If you were to do that, the control cables would have to pass through lower
portion of your forward baggage compartment, so you'd probably want to close
off the lower baggage and use it for the cables, wiring and other things.
Plus, I believe the resale value of your 8 would plummet if you put the
throttle on the right as most pilots prefer the "fighter pilot" setup in tan
dem
aircraft.
Ninety percent of the population is right handed - and using both hands to
actuate knobs and switches is common. In the F-16, the stick was to the fa
r
right sidewall, so using the left hand to do stuff was the norm - with an
occasional use of the right hand when not maneuvering the jet. Of course,
HOTAS
(max number of switches and functions on the stick and throttle) helped in
that regard.
Stan Sutterfield
Does anyone place their throttle quadrant on the right side
while controlling the stick with their left? I can't remember if I have
seem any set up this way. My 6A and -10 are both set up right hand
throttle but my -4 and the 8's seem to be the reverse. I have no problem
flying the plane with either hand but prefer manipulating the EFIS /
radios with the right hand while holding the stick. I don't understand
why this would not be the preferred way to set up the controls for us
righties...
**************Play online games for FREE at Games.com! All of your favorites
,
no registration required and great graphics =93 check it out!
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: TruTrak "Failsafe Automatic Pitch Trim"... |
At 05:37 AM 10/22/2008 Wednesday, you wrote:
>
>Also, Matt, what's that gizmo attached to your pitch servo? I have a TT system
as well, but don't have that rectangular thing with a wire for my control arm
...
>
>-- Don
> N8RV
The special linkage between the stepper motor and the pitch axis bellcrank is a
strain gauge that provides feedback to another electric box from TruTrak that
controls the elevator trim tab. When the strain gauge detects pressure on the
elevator because of an out-of-trim condition, the device will automatically
feed in trim to compensate and reduces the workload on the pitch axis servo.
This function is wired in parallel with the normal electric trim button on the
stick that the pilot uses so the trim input from the system can always be overridden.
They call it their "Failsafe Automatic Pitch Trim". I believe that
it only works in conjunction with the autopilot engaged, however. It would be
cool if would also auto-trim for different power settings when the autopilot
was disengaged.
I've included a picture of the linkage below and more information from TruTrak's
web site below as well. Seems like a really cool device.
Here's a link to the Manual:
http://www.trutrakap.com/documents/AutomaticPitchTrim.pdf
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res)
[]
Emacs!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fresh Air Duct Routing... |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Matt, your leap may have a great benefit. That could be used for one of those portable
AC units I saw at SnF. Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 12:33 am
Subject: RV8-List: Fresh Air Duct Routing...
Dear Listers,
What is the consensus on routing the front fresh air ducts? I added an optional
right side SV-1 NACA vent too. Looking at where to route the 2" duct seems to
be either down and around the gear tower and second bulkhead, kind of directly
in the foot/leg area, or just to go directly through the second bulkhead. The
later would require a couple of lightening holes punched in the bulkhead. I'm
not sure this is kosher, though. Thoughts?
I just realized that adding that right-side NACA vent kind of limits the utility
of baggage area, now doesn't it...? I thought that Van's didn't punch the right
side as a part of the "keep it under 50%" rule that I keep running into...
Well, at least I'll have lots of fresh air!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 # 82880
[Image Removed]
[Image Removed]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Winkels" <winkels(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Interior Painting - Powercoating? When? |
Matt, I have had several steel and aluminum parts powder coated on my RV-7,
and I asked my powder coater about the limitations of powder coating. He
said he would be very hesitant to powder coat anything thinner than about
.063" aluminum because the heat can cause deformation, especially in larger
parts. I am no expert, but I don't think it would be advisable to place your
assembled fuselage into a 400 degree oven!!! I certainly wouldn't do it.
Also, powder coating can add considerably more weight than priming/painting.
By the way, I had my assembled brake pedals powder coated with excellent
results. My instrument panel will also get powder coated (before the
instruments are installed, of course ;). Other than the slider canopy latch
hook, that's about the extent of aluminum parts I'll powder coat. Of the
steel parts powder coated, I've done the tailwheel spring and fork assembly,
slider canopy frame and roll bar, and canopy latch handle, but that's about
it.
Hope this helps,
Paul
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Monday, October 20, 2008 19:12
Subject: RV8-List: Interior Painting - Powercoating? When?
Fellow RV-er's,
There is a powercoating shop here in my town that has an oven large enough
to put my whole RV-8 fuselage into it. I've been considering just having
the whole inside powercoated for the durability, and sweet look. Lots of
guys powercoat the instrument panel and obviously most of the steel parts
come from Van's powercoated. But what are the upsides and downsides of
powercoating all of the interior parts. I've used Variprime on most of the
backsides of the interior parts, but I've left the occupant facing parts
bare in prep for the powercoating. Will the powercoat chip off easily on
the bend-y pieces?
And when's the right time to take it down to the powercoaters? I would like
to have most things riveted that need riveting before the coating like the
forward deck over the instrument panel and the aft turtledeck, but these get
riveted on pretty late in the building process. I would like to have all of
the wiring and controls installed or at least fabbed and trial fitted before
coating to avoid scratches. But again, once things are wired, is coating
going to make a mess? Its not like the harnesses can really be removed once
their installed...
The other concern is the heat necessary to bake on the powercoating. I
think its upwards of 450 degrees F. What impact will that temperature have
on the various parts that go into the fuselage such as the aeronuts, plastic
bushings, clamps, etc?
I'm in quite a dilemma over this. I really want to wait as long as possible
to avoid scratches and chips in the powercoating, but I don't want to wait
too long and not be able to disassemble things to the point of making a good
looking job. For example, the rear floor boards should probably be riveted
down, but any screwed in panels should be removed. But riveting the
floorboards is something I'd probably prefer to do the day before test
flying...
Thanks for any insight...
Matt Dralle
RV-8 # 82880
Trutrak Auto Pilot Servo and Aileron Electric Trim Install
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Judge" <bjudge(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Insurance project |
Ladies and Gentleman:
I'm just about due for a renewal. Anybody that has shopped for insurance
before knows that it is difficult to figure out if your broker is giving you
a good deal or not. If you go to a second broker for a quote they get a
nasty note from the system the the risk has already been quoted. I was
hoping to circumvent this by publicizing my experience, what I pay along
with level of coverage and asking others to publicize the same. I'll
cheerfully put together this data in a spread sheet that will create
insurance quotes based on what people are paying. you'll be able to get
your own quote and compare it to this to know if the quote is in the zone or
not. If this works for RV-8's I'll try the same for other craft.
so if you want to participate here is what I'll need:
Premium $1801
hull value 100,000
Deductible $100
Liability limits $1,000,000 per incident
Exp:
1300 hrs total time
1000 Tailwheel
335 RV-8 time
SEL Com, IFR, Pri Gli.
I know that the Hull value is the major component of the risk so knowing the
rest of the coverage isn't critical.
If you don't want to blast the info to the whole group send it directly to
me. bjudge at gmail com
I do this sort of backwards engineering for a living (operations research)
so I think I can produce something of value for us all.
Thanks,
Bill Judge
N84WJ
RV-8, 320 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Keilin" <rkeilin(at)cfl.rr.com> |
Just installed Rob Bowers Ram Air kit on my Superior I-O 360 with
horizontal air induction. A beautiful fit, and picked up over 1.5
inches of manifold pressure. He also makes the scoop that can be
adapted to Van's cowling. Check out hs web site. Ron Keilin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance project |
Hi Bill ... I applaud your efforts to try to unscramble the prices of
the "OPEC" of GA insurance. It seems to me if one broker could end up
with an extraordinary chunk of the business the others may want to take
a half loaf vs. no loaf.
As this unfolds you may discover a path to lower the rates of prices
"fixed" by the insurers.
Regards ...
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
| Subject: | TCW Technologies products |
Fellow RV builders,
Just a note to let you know that the new products we had on display
at Oshkosh are now available and in stock.
We introduced two products:
1) The Intelligent Power Stabilizer (IPS) which allows critical
equipment in the plane, such as GPS, EFIS and engine monitors to be up
and running before and during engine starting without the need to carry
an auxiliary battery. Additionally, based on feedback from the show,
we've introduced an 8 amp model of this product as well.
2) The Intelligent Lighting Controller (ILC) which allows remote,
electronic switching of the primary aircraft lighting circuits and
includes the wig-wag function as well as dimming control of 3 lighting
circuits.
All the details are available on our web site. www.tcwtech.com
As always thanks for your support
Bob Newman RV-10 (40176)
TCW Technologies, LLC.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines... |
Dear Listers,
I spent a lot of time staring at those plastic brake lines for the low pressure
side and just didn't like a thing about them. Just imagine if one were to break
and what a mess all the brake fluid all over the cockpit would be like.
After some thought, I came up with the following system for the low pressure feed.
I used standard AN 1/4" fittings and aluminum tubing to bring the fluid from
the reservoir to a tee fitting and then to bulkhead fittings that connect
to standard Aeroquip hoses to the master calendars. Yeah, it was a little more
weight, but the peace of mind is worth it.
But here's my question. Notice that on the back side of the second bulkhead, I
kind of looped the tubing up and around the hole for the vent. This also positioned
tee fitting nicely to feed the left and right sides. The top of that
loop is maybe 4 to 5" higher than the top of the reservoir, though. Is the flow
from the reservoir to the master cylinders suppose to be basically "gravity
fed" or is the "pump" action from the master cylinders all that is necessary
to keep the tube and master cylinders full?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Rice <rice737(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines... |
Hey Matt=2C
Your work looks great. To the best of my knowledge=2C the reservoir should
be above the master cylinders. I have been using the small resevoirs that
attach to the top of the master cylinders with no problems. Have you given
them any thought?
Paul Rice
RV8 110 hours
Flying Siren> Date: Tue=2C 28 Oct 2008 18:48:08 -0700> To: rv8-list@matroni
cs.com=3B rv-list(at)matronics.com> From: dralle(at)matronics.com> Subject: RV8-L
ist: Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines...> > > Dear Listers=2C> > I spen
t a lot of time staring at those plastic brake lines for the low pressure s
ide and just didn't like a thing about them. Just imagine if one were to br
eak and what a mess all the brake fluid all over the cockpit would be like.
> > After some thought=2C I came up with the following system for the low p
ressure feed. I used standard AN 1/4" fittings and aluminum tubing to bring
the fluid from the reservoir to a tee fitting and then to bulkhead fitting
s that connect to standard Aeroquip hoses to the master calendars. Yeah=2C
it was a little more weight=2C but the peace of mind is worth it.> > But he
re's my question. Notice that on the back side of the second bulkhead=2C I
kind of looped the tubing up and around the hole for the vent. This also po
sitioned tee fitting nicely to feed the left and right sides. The top of th
at loop is maybe 4 to 5" higher than the top of the reservoir=2C though. Is
the flow from the reservoir to the master cylinders suppose to be basicall
y "gravity fed" or is the "pump" action from the master cylinders all that
is necessary to keep the tube and master cylinders full?> > Matt Dralle> RV
-8 #82880 N844RV (res)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Christopher Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines... |
Matt...
RV's have been using the nylon brake supply tube for years with few problems.
The issue that may give you a problems is when bleeding... Being able to see
the bubbles in the supply lines make it possible to purge them. I admit that
I have a sample size of one... but, we had a tough time getting all the bubbles
out even when we could see them.
Chris Stone
RV-8
Newberg, Oregon
-----Original Message-----
>From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
>Sent: Oct 28, 2008 9:48 PM
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines...
>
>
>Dear Listers,
>
>I spent a lot of time staring at those plastic brake lines for the low pressure
side and just didn't like a thing about them. Just imagine if one were to break
and what a mess all the brake fluid all over the cockpit would be like.
>
>After some thought, I came up with the following system for the low pressure feed.
I used standard AN 1/4" fittings and aluminum tubing to bring the fluid
from the reservoir to a tee fitting and then to bulkhead fittings that connect
to standard Aeroquip hoses to the master calendars. Yeah, it was a little more
weight, but the peace of mind is worth it.
>
>But here's my question. Notice that on the back side of the second bulkhead,
I kind of looped the tubing up and around the hole for the vent. This also positioned
tee fitting nicely to feed the left and right sides. The top of that
loop is maybe 4 to 5" higher than the top of the reservoir, though. Is the flow
from the reservoir to the master cylinders suppose to be basically "gravity
fed" or is the "pump" action from the master cylinders all that is necessary
to keep the tube and master cylinders full?
>
>Matt Dralle
>RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | manuel weber <flyinwithme99(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines... |
The important thing is to have the reservoir higher than any of the feed li
nes.- Having all the bubbles out of the feed lines is not necessary as lo
ng as you have enough head for a positive fluid flow to the master cylinder
s.- You may have a-problem with an air lock in some of the loops you cr
eated in the feed lines.- -Pressure bleeding the system from the bottom
up should purge enough of the feed lines to have a sufficient solid reserv
oir of fluid for feeding the master cylinders when they need additional flu
id.=0A=0ARemember that the only time the master cylinders need any addition
al fluid is to compensate for brake wear.=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A___________________
_____________=0AFrom: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>=0ATo: rv8-list@mat
ronics.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 8:48:08
PM=0ASubject: RV8-List: Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines...=0A=0A=0ADe
ar Listers,=0A=0AI spent a lot of time staring at those plastic brake lines
for the low pressure side and just didn't like a thing about them.- Just
imagine if one were to break and what a mess all the brake fluid all over
the cockpit would be like.=0A=0AAfter some thought, I came up with the foll
owing system for the low pressure feed.- I used standard AN 1/4" fittings
and aluminum tubing to bring the fluid from the reservoir to a tee fitting
and then to bulkhead fittings that connect to standard Aeroquip hoses to t
he master calendars.- Yeah, it was a little more weight, but the peace of
mind is worth it.=0A=0ABut here's my question.- Notice that on the back
side of the second bulkhead, I kind of looped the tubing up and around the
hole for the vent.- This also positioned tee fitting nicely to feed the l
eft and right sides.- The top of that loop is maybe 4 to 5" higher than t
he top of the reservoir, though.- Is the flow from the reservoir to the m
aster cylinders suppose to be basically "gravity fed" or is the "pump" acti
on from the master cylinders all that is necessary to keep the tube and mas
ter cylinders full?=0A=0AMatt Dralle=0ARV-8 #82880 N844RV (res)=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Baldwin" <jamesbaldwin(at)dc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines... |
Matt-
Surely you are using one of the "reverse flow", one man brake bleeding
external reservoirs? With it, the external source of brake fluid is forced
back through the calipers, up the pressurized supply lines, through the
master cylinders, up the un-pressurized feed lines and into the reservoir,
spilling out the top into a temporary catch can. There is no possible
bubble in any line. Works great, available at ACS. JBB
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 6:48 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines...
Dear Listers,
I spent a lot of time staring at those plastic brake lines for the low
pressure side and just didn't like a thing about them. Just imagine if one
were to break and what a mess all the brake fluid all over the cockpit would
be like.
After some thought, I came up with the following system for the low pressure
feed. I used standard AN 1/4" fittings and aluminum tubing to bring the
fluid from the reservoir to a tee fitting and then to bulkhead fittings that
connect to standard Aeroquip hoses to the master calendars. Yeah, it was a
little more weight, but the peace of mind is worth it.
But here's my question. Notice that on the back side of the second
bulkhead, I kind of looped the tubing up and around the hole for the vent.
This also positioned tee fitting nicely to feed the left and right sides.
The top of that loop is maybe 4 to 5" higher than the top of the reservoir,
though. Is the flow from the reservoir to the master cylinders suppose to
be basically "gravity fed" or is the "pump" action from the master cylinders
all that is necessary to keep the tube and master cylinders full?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines... |
| From: | "david wilder" <mdw(at)ceoexpress.com> |
Could you please delete me from the RV list?
I am going in a different direction.
David Wilder
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Tue, October 28, 2008 21:48
Subject:RV8-List: Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines...
Dear Listers,
I spent a lot of time staring at those plastic brake lines for the low
pressure side
and just didn't like a thing about them. Just imagine if one were to
break and what
a mess all the brake fluid all over the cockpit would be like.
After some thought, I came up with the following system for the low
pressure feed.
I used standard AN 1/4" fittings and aluminum tubing to bring the fluid
from the
reservoir to a tee fitting and then to bulkhead fittings that connect to
standard
Aeroquip hoses to the master calendars. Yeah, it was a little more
weight, but the
peace of mind is worth it.
But here's my question. Notice that on the back side of the second
bulkhead, I kind
of looped the tubing up and around the hole for the vent. This also
positioned tee
fitting nicely to feed the left and right sides. The top of that loop is
maybe 4 to
5" higher than the top of the reservoir, though. Is the flow from the
reservoir to
the master cylinders suppose to be basically "gravity fed" or is the
"pump" action
from the master cylinders all that is necessary to keep the tube and master
cylinders full?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res)
----- End of original message -----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Slaughter" <willslau(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines... |
David, you have to do that yourself. Look at the instructions at the bottom of
the post.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of david wilder
Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2008 3:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines...
Could you please delete me from the RV list?
I am going in a different direction.
David Wilder
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Tue, October 28, 2008 21:48
Subject:RV8-List: Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines...
Dear Listers,
I spent a lot of time staring at those plastic brake lines for the low
pressure side
and just didn't like a thing about them. Just imagine if one were to
break and what
a mess all the brake fluid all over the cockpit would be like.
After some thought, I came up with the following system for the low
pressure feed.
I used standard AN 1/4" fittings and aluminum tubing to bring the fluid
from the
reservoir to a tee fitting and then to bulkhead fittings that connect to
standard
Aeroquip hoses to the master calendars. Yeah, it was a little more
weight, but the
peace of mind is worth it.
But here's my question. Notice that on the back side of the second
bulkhead, I kind
of looped the tubing up and around the hole for the vent. This also
positioned tee
fitting nicely to feed the left and right sides. The top of that loop is
maybe 4 to
5" higher than the top of the reservoir, though. Is the flow from the
reservoir to
the master cylinders suppose to be basically "gravity fed" or is the
"pump" action
from the master cylinders all that is necessary to keep the tube and master
cylinders full?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res)
----- End of original message -----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Matronics Email List Fund Raiser During November! |
Dear Listers,
Each November I hold a PBS-like fund raiser to support the continued operation
and upgrade of the List services at Matronics. It's through soley through the
Contributions of List members that these Matronics Lists are possible.
You have probably noticed that there are no banner ads or pop-up windows on any of the Matronics Lists or related web sites such as the Forums site ( http://forums.matronics.com ), Wiki site ( http://wiki.matronics.com ), or other related pages such as the List Search Engine ( http://www.matronics.com/search ), List Browse ( http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse ), etc. This is because I believe in a List experience that is completely about the sport we all enjoy - namely Airplanes and not about annoying advertisments.
During the month of November I will be sending out List messages every few days
reminding everyone that the Fund Raiser is underway. I ask for your patience
and understanding during the Fund Raiser and throughout these regular messages.
The Fund Raiser is only financial support mechanism I have to pay all of the
bills associated with running these lists. Your personal Contribution counts.
Once again, this year I've got a terrific line up of free gifts to go along with
the various Contribution levels. Most all of these gifts have been provided
by some of the vary members and vendors that you'll find on Matronics Lists and
have been either donated or provided at substantially discounted rates.
This year, these generous people include Bob Nuckolls of the AeroElectric Connection (http://www.aeroelectric.com/), Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore (http://www.buildersbooks.com/), and Jon Croke of HomebuiltHELP (http://www.homebuilthelp.com/).
These are extremely generous guys and I encourage you to visit their respective
web sites. Each one offers a unique and very useful aviation-related product
line. I would like publicly to thank Bob, Andy, and Jon for their generous support
of the Lists again this year!!
You can make your List Contribution using any one of three secure methods this
year including using a credit card, PayPal, or by personal check. All three methods
afford you the opportunity to select one of this year's free gifts with
a qualifying Contribution amount!!
To make your Contribution, please visit the secure site below:
https://www.matronics.com/contribution
I would like to thank everyone in advance for their generous financial AND moral
support over the years. I know it sounds a little cliche, but you guys really
do feel like family.
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8a Van's Fiberglass |
RV Builders, I'm about finished with the canopy skirts on my 8's sliding
canopy. Lord knows I LOVE fiberglass! What product can I buy that I can spray on
that will cover Van's pink fiberglass and smooth out the surface? The 601 XL I
built had all the fiberglass parts gel coated so priming and painting were a
snap, but looking ahead at the cowls and wheel pants I need some product that
will smooth out the surface. Hope to hear from somebody. Best regards, Bill of
Georgia
**************
Plan your next getaway with AOL Travel. Check out
Today's Hot 5 Travel Deals!
01)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Speed 3 Guy" <speed3guy(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8a Van's Fiberglass |
I like PPG's K36 Prima. Their K38 works very well too, but in my opinion
the K36 is more versatile and easier to work with as it can be reduced.
Guy
RV-8A Painting
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com
Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2008 6:34 AM
Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8a Van's Fiberglass
RV Builders, I'm about finished with the canopy skirts on my 8's sliding
canopy. Lord knows I LOVE fiberglass! What product can I buy that I can
spray on that will cover Van's pink fiberglass and smooth out the surface?
The 601 XL I built had all the fiberglass parts gel coated so priming and
painting were a snap, but looking ahead at the cowls and wheel pants I need
some product that will smooth out the surface. Hope to hear from somebody.
Best regards, Bill of Georgia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Contribution Site URL Clarification |
Dear Listers,
In my List Fund Raiser kickoff email last night, I mistyped the URL for the *initial*
Contribution web site and couple of people reported receiving SSL certificate
errors. The actual payment entry pages where were correct, however, so
there were no certificate issues that impacted payment data. I'm sorry for the
confusion.
Please use the following URL to start your List Contribution:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8a Van's Fiberglass |
At 05:34 AM 11/1/2008 Saturday, you wrote:
>RV Builders, I'm about finished with the canopy skirts on my 8's sliding canopy.
Lord knows I LOVE fiberglass! What product can I buy that I can spray on that
will cover Van's pink fiberglass and smooth out the surface? The 601 XL I built
had all the fiberglass parts gel coated so priming and painting were a snap,
but looking ahead at the cowls and wheel pants I need some product that will
smooth out the surface. Hope to hear from somebody. Best regards, Bill of Georgia
Hi Bill,
For my tail tips, I got some sweet gel coat stuff from the local Tap Plastics store.
I bought a pt. can and a little tube of the hardener and some thinner.
It mixes up like a really thick paint and you can either brush or spray it on.
It isn't has hard as the stuff Van's uses on the tips, but it gives just as
nice a finish. Pretty simple to use. Here's a picture of the stuff...
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res)
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines... |
Dear Listers,
After some head scratching and a couple more tries, I think I came up with a new
design for the low pressure side of the brake lines. With this design, there
is a steady slope downward from the reservoir to the master calendars. Seems
to be pretty substantial. My only concern is that right feed line going through
that candy cane piece isn't really supported anywhere. Its pretty short
and solid to the touch, but vibration might cause a issue. Since the bottom floor
of the baggage area goes over the top, there's really nothing permanent I
can attach it to short of making a bracket of some kind (yuck).
So what do you guys think?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res)
At 06:48 PM 10/28/2008 Tuesday, Matt Dralle wrote:
>[snip]
>
>But here's my question. Notice that on the back side of the second bulkhead,
I kind of looped the tubing up and around the hole for the vent. This also positioned
tee fitting nicely to feed the left and right sides. The top of that
loop is maybe 4 to 5" higher than the top of the reservoir, though. Is the flow
from the reservoir to the master cylinders suppose to be basically "gravity
fed" or is the "pump" action from the master cylinders all that is necessary
to keep the tube and master cylinders full?
>
>Matt Dralle
>RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Ellis" <johnee35(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines... |
It's an experimental aircraft, your idea will probably work fine, try it.
Or use the flex lines as plans call for, or use the reservoirs on the master
cylinders to assure no leaks.
The amount of fluid needed to keep calipers working properly won't amount to
1 ounce per side as lining wears.
I used the flex lines per plans, two years, 200 hours, no problem.
J.Ellis a/p 1726833
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2008 7:02 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Re: Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines...
> Dear Listers,
>
> After some head scratching and a couple more tries, I think I came up with
> a new design for the low pressure side of the brake lines. With this
> design, there is a steady slope downward from the reservoir to the master
> calendars. Seems to be pretty substantial. My only concern is that right
> feed line going through that candy cane piece isn't really supported
> anywhere. Its pretty short and solid to the touch, but vibration might
> cause a issue. Since the bottom floor of the baggage area goes over the
> top, there's really nothing permanent I can attach it to short of making a
> bracket of some kind (yuck).
>
> So what do you guys think?
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res)
>
>
> At 06:48 PM 10/28/2008 Tuesday, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>>[snip]
>>
>>But here's my question. Notice that on the back side of the second
>>bulkhead, I kind of looped the tubing up and around the hole for the vent.
>>This also positioned tee fitting nicely to feed the left and right sides.
>>The top of that loop is maybe 4 to 5" higher than the top of the
>>reservoir, though. Is the flow from the reservoir to the master cylinders
>>suppose to be basically "gravity fed" or is the "pump" action from the
>>master cylinders all that is necessary to keep the tube and master
>>cylinders full?
>>
>>Matt Dralle
>>RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines... |
Thank you for the feedback John. To run it parallel with the high pressure line
above it, I would have had to go up a couple of inches as it relates to the
reservoir since I have to go under the baggage floor. I was trying to make sure
that all of the run was at least slightly downward to keep gravity pulling
the fluid toward the master cylinder. Am I mis-understanding your comment?
Matt
At 08:54 AM 11/2/2008 Sunday, you wrote:
>Your workmanship is exceptional and a thing of beauty to behold.
>However, when I am performing Tech Inspections, I would caution builders
>on the use of a long continuous run as in your picture (2). I would
>have created the same sweep as the line above and run the straight line
>more parallel to the upper line.
>
>John Cox
>A&P, IA
>EAA Tech #5242
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
>Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2008 6:03 PM
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Re: Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines...
>
>Dear Listers,
>
>After some head scratching and a couple more tries, I think I came up
>with a new design for the low pressure side of the brake lines. With
>this design, there is a steady slope downward from the reservoir to the
>master calendars. Seems to be pretty substantial. My only concern is
>that right feed line going through that candy cane piece isn't really
>supported anywhere. Its pretty short and solid to the touch, but
>vibration might cause a issue. Since the bottom floor of the baggage
>area goes over the top, there's really nothing permanent I can attach it
>to short of making a bracket of some kind (yuck).
>
>So what do you guys think?
>
>Matt Dralle
>RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res)
>
>
>At 06:48 PM 10/28/2008 Tuesday, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>>[snip]
>>
>>But here's my question. Notice that on the back side of the second
>bulkhead, I kind of looped the tubing up and around the hole for the
>vent. This also positioned tee fitting nicely to feed the left and
>right sides. The top of that loop is maybe 4 to 5" higher than the top
>of the reservoir, though. Is the flow from the reservoir to the master
>cylinders suppose to be basically "gravity fed" or is the "pump" action
>from the master cylinders all that is necessary to keep the tube and
>master cylinders full?
>>
>>Matt Dralle
>>RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res)
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines... |
Ah! I understand. But those are the low pressure side so there really isn't any
"pressure" to speak of, is there? I do see your point from a best-practices
stand point and it was something that I didn't know.
Thanks!
Matt
At 09:23 AM 11/2/2008 Sunday, you wrote:
>No, however any line containing pressurized fluid contracts in length
>and expands in diameter, hence the need for flex by routing other than
>the "shortest distance between two connection points. It is spelled out
>in the AC43.13.
>
>John
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Matt Dralle [mailto:dralle(at)matronics.com]
>Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2008 9:16 AM
>To: John Cox
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines...
>
>Thank you for the feedback John. To run it parallel with the high
>pressure line above it, I would have had to go up a couple of inches as
>it relates to the reservoir since I have to go under the baggage floor.
>I was trying to make sure that all of the run was at least slightly
>downward to keep gravity pulling the fluid toward the master cylinder.
>Am I mis-understanding your comment?
>
>Matt
>
>At 08:54 AM 11/2/2008 Sunday, you wrote:
>>Your workmanship is exceptional and a thing of beauty to behold.
>>However, when I am performing Tech Inspections, I would caution
>builders
>>on the use of a long continuous run as in your picture (2). I would
>>have created the same sweep as the line above and run the straight line
>>more parallel to the upper line.
>>
>>John Cox
>>A&P, IA
>>EAA Tech #5242
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
>>Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2008 6:03 PM
>>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RV-List: Re: Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines...
>>
>>Dear Listers,
>>
>>After some head scratching and a couple more tries, I think I came up
>>with a new design for the low pressure side of the brake lines. With
>>this design, there is a steady slope downward from the reservoir to the
>>master calendars. Seems to be pretty substantial. My only concern is
>>that right feed line going through that candy cane piece isn't really
>>supported anywhere. Its pretty short and solid to the touch, but
>>vibration might cause a issue. Since the bottom floor of the baggage
>>area goes over the top, there's really nothing permanent I can attach
>it
>>to short of making a bracket of some kind (yuck).
>>
>>So what do you guys think?
>>
>>Matt Dralle
>>RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res)
>>
>>
>>At 06:48 PM 10/28/2008 Tuesday, Matt Dralle wrote:
>>
>>>[snip]
>>>
>>>But here's my question. Notice that on the back side of the second
>>bulkhead, I kind of looped the tubing up and around the hole for the
>>vent. This also positioned tee fitting nicely to feed the left and
>>right sides. The top of that loop is maybe 4 to 5" higher than the top
>>of the reservoir, though. Is the flow from the reservoir to the master
>>cylinders suppose to be basically "gravity fed" or is the "pump" action
>>from the master cylinders all that is necessary to keep the tube and
>>master cylinders full?
>>>
>>>Matt Dralle
>>>RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res)
>
>
>Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
>925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
>http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines... |
Thanks for the tip, Mike. I actually did try these babies out. The problem on
the RV-8, though, is that with the adjustable rudder pedals at full "tall-person",
the mini-reservoir doesn't clear the firewall when the brakes are applied.
Here's a picture with one on the right master cylinder and full right rudder
applied, but no brake action. Notice that there is only about 1/16" of clearance
to the firewall. I wish that Grove had used a different fitting design
instead of just slapping a NPT M-M on the side. Its way too long. Anybody know
of a similar fitting that is about half as long?
Matt
At 06:46 PM 11/1/2008 Saturday, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: MikeNellis
>
>Hi Matt,
>You've created a plumbing masterpiece but it's a ton of complication and cost.
Have you thought about just mounting the brake reservoir right on the brake
master cylinders?
>This is similar to the set up that I've used. $22/ea.
>
>Good luck.
>
>
>http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/remoteFluidReservoirs.php
>>Dear Listers,
>>
>>After some head scratching and a couple more tries, I think I came up with a
new design for the low pressure side of the brake lines. With this design, there
is a steady slope downward from the reservoir to the master calendars. Seems
to be pretty substantial. My only concern is that right feed line going through
that candy cane piece isn't really supported anywhere. Its pretty short
and solid to the touch, but vibration might cause a issue. Since the bottom
floor of the baggage area goes over the top, there's really nothing permanent
I can attach it to short of making a bracket of some kind (yuck).
>>
>>So what do you guys think?
>>
>>Matt Dralle
>>RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res)
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
>925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
>http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Speed 3 Guy" <speed3guy(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines... |
Matt,
I used the individual reservoirs, but mounted them with a street elbow
instead of a straight nipple. That gives a bit more clearance to the
firewall.
Guy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2008 10:52 AM
Subject: RV8-List: Re: Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines...
Thanks for the tip, Mike. I actually did try these babies out. The problem
on the RV-8, though, is that with the adjustable rudder pedals at full
"tall-person", the mini-reservoir doesn't clear the firewall when the brakes
are applied. Here's a picture with one on the right master cylinder and
full right rudder applied, but no brake action. Notice that there is only
about 1/16" of clearance to the firewall. I wish that Grove had used a
different fitting design instead of just slapping a NPT M-M on the side.
Its way too long. Anybody know of a similar fitting that is about half as
long?
Matt
At 06:46 PM 11/1/2008 Saturday, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: MikeNellis
>
>Hi Matt,
>You've created a plumbing masterpiece but it's a ton of complication and
cost. Have you thought about just mounting the brake reservoir right on the
brake master cylinders?
>This is similar to the set up that I've used. $22/ea.
>
>Good luck.
>
>
>http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/remoteFluidReservoirs.php
>>Dear Listers,
>>
>>After some head scratching and a couple more tries, I think I came up with
a new design for the low pressure side of the brake lines. With this
design, there is a steady slope downward from the reservoir to the master
calendars. Seems to be pretty substantial. My only concern is that right
feed line going through that candy cane piece isn't really supported
anywhere. Its pretty short and solid to the touch, but vibration might
cause a issue. Since the bottom floor of the baggage area goes over the
top, there's really nothing permanent I can attach it to short of making a
bracket of some kind (yuck).
>>
>>So what do you guys think?
>>
>>Matt Dralle
>>RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res)
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
>925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
>http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Keilin" <rkeilin(at)cfl.rr.com> |
Kodak HTML EmailThese photos were taken in Miami, Florida for the Make
a Wish Foundation.
----- Original Message -----
From: rkeilin(at)cfl.rr.com
Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2008 8:59 PM
Subject: 11/02/08
Get Kodak prints of this picture, and all your other favorites, at
www.kodakgallery.com!
How to save a picture
Simply right-click on it, then "Save Image As...". (Mac users:
drag the picture to your desktop.)
Free Software!
Organize, print, and share your digital photos using FREE Kodak
EasyShare software. Download the software
Get 20 Free Prints
Get started for free at kodakgallery.com and we'll give you
20 free prints (new members only). Plus, create photo mugs, books,
cards, and more!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Keilin" <rkeilin(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | make a wish foundation |
Kodak HTML EmailThese photos were taken in Miami, Fla. for the Make a
Wish Foundation. I wish I could show all the photos taken from the
ground as well as a helicopter. We are a team of four RV-8's called the
Mavericks, with the same paint scheme. It was a spectacular day with
lots of formation and smoke.
Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2008 8:59 PM
Subject: 11/02/08
Get Kodak prints of this picture, and all your other favorites, at
www.kodakgallery.com!
How to save a picture
Simply right-click on it, then "Save Image As...". (Mac users:
drag the picture to your desktop.)
Free Software!
Organize, print, and share your digital photos using FREE Kodak
EasyShare software. Download the software
Get 20 Free Prints
Get started for free at kodakgallery.com and we'll give you
20 free prints (new members only). Plus, create photo mugs, books,
cards, and more!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Keilin" <rkeilin(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: Mav diamond 1 |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Gandt" <bob(at)gandt.com>
"Weldon Jim"
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 4:24 PM
Subject: Mav diamond 1
> For your collection...
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Mav diamond 1
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Keilin" <rkeilin(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: Emailing: 100_0576 |
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Keilin
Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2008 9:25 PM
Subject: Emailing: 100_0576
The message is ready to be sent with the following file or link
attachments:
100_0576
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Keilin" <rkeilin(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: Emailing: 100_0575 |
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Keilin
Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2008 9:24 PM
Subject: Emailing: 100_0575
The message is ready to be sent with the following file or link
attachments:
100_0575
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Please Make a Contribution to Support Your Lists... |
Dear Listers,
Just a reminder that November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Please make a Contribution
today to support the continued operation and upgrade of
these great List services!! Pick up a really nice free gift with your qualifying
Contribution too!
The Contribution Site is fast and easy:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Porter" <december29(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Brake drag on landing |
Hi all,
I know that brake drag on landing has been addressed. And some rather
novel ways to address it (rudder bar bolt through the pedal, rubber
tubing on side of rudder pedal, etc), but experienced something
interesting to think about. I hadn't flown my RV-8 in about a month.
As a result, had some light surface rust on the brake discs. As I
taxied out, I could hear a slight squeaking from the right side. By
physically forcing my right heel to the floor and thinking about it, the
squeaking stopped. I have always been aware to put my feet on the floor
( to include saying, "Feet on the floor", out loud, on final, to
myself), but had inadvertent pressure on the right side anyway. We're
talking small pressures here. My recent condition inspection showed no
difference in brake pad usage.
I fly commercially and my 'craft has brake temp indicators for each
main wheel. Interestingly, my brake temps are always a bit higher on
the right side, regardless of wind direction, touchdown side, or braking
force. I've wondered about it, but to no conclusion.
Here's what "Dr. Porter" has come up with. I think from driving a
car, we may be programmed to think "stop" with our right foot and may
drag that foot without knowing it. You then correct with rudder for the
problem subconsciously. If you're over six feet and size 12 or above,
this could be the answer to any landing directional issues you are
having. I don't exactly have any extra legroom in my -8.
I had the best landings I've ever had in my RV after physically (and I
mean physically) making sure I'm on the bottom of the pedals. I
wouldn't have known it had I not heard the squeaking as I always thought
my feet were clear.
We're not talking huge corrections here, just the "polishing the
stone" type of stuff, but I offer this as one of those "the light came
on" moments after 15K hours of flying. So basic..............almost
embarrassing, but you may be doing it subconsciously. My wife is
impressed with my big feet................but my RV isn't, ha,ha.
File this in the "for what it's worth" department but thought I'd
mention it.
You should see my gloves.................................
John Porter
N802RJ
"Rockin' Robin"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | List Fund Raiser |
A couple of years ago I implemented an automatic "squelch button" of sorts for
the Fund Raiser messages. Here's how it works... As soon as a List member makes
a
Contribution through the Matronics Fund Raiser web site, he or she will instantly
cease to receive these Fund Raiser messages for the rest of the month! Its
just that simple. Don't you wish PBS worked that way! :-)
I really do appreciate each and every one of your individual Contributions to support
the Lists. It is your support that enables me to upgrade the hardware
and
software that are required to run a List Site like this. It also goes to pay for
the commercial-grade Internet connection and to pay the huge electric bill
to
keep the computer gear running and the air conditioner powered on. I run all of
the Matronics Email List and Forums sites here locally which allows me to
control and monitor every aspect of the system for the utmost in reliably and performance.
Your personal Contribution matters because, when combined with other Listers such
as yourself, it pays the bills to keep this site up and running. I accept
exactly ZERO advertising dollars for the Matronics Lists sites. I can't stand
the pop-up ads and all other commercials that are so prevalent on the Internet
these days and I particularly don't want to have it on my Email List sites.
If you appreciate the ad-free, grass-roots, down-home feel of the Matronics Email
Lists, please make a Contribution to keep it that way!!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
[Note that there are certain circumstances where you might still see a Contribution
related message. For example, if someone replies to one of the messages,
when using the List Browse feature, or when accessing List message via the Forum.
The system keys on the given email address and since most of these are
anonymous public access methods, there is no simple way to filter them.]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Dear Listers,
Just a quick reminder that November is the annual List Fund Raiser. The Matronics
Lists are 100% member supported and all of the operational costs are provided
for my your Contributions during this time of the year.
Your personal Contribution makes a difference and keeps all of the Matronics Email
Lists and Forums completely ad-free.
Please make your Contribution today to keep these services up and running!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you in advance!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neal George" <n8zg(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: Emailing: 100_0576 |
I stopped to see you before I left yesterday, but you were off turning AvGas
into joy.
See you soon. Tell Bob his Bell fork is on it's way.
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Keilin
Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2008 4:20 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Fw: Emailing: 100_0576
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Keilin <mailto:rkeilin(at)cfl.rr.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2008 9:25 PM
Subject: Emailing: 100_0576
100_0576
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Re: RV-List: Sealink 12v Recepticle |
--- On Sat, 11/8/08, Dan wrote:
From: Dan <bsdan2000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sealink 12v Recepticle
Date: Saturday, November 8, 2008, 6:12 PM
That is a good deal,but
I am a marine retailer, I can offer any of these at dealer cost plus UPS sh
ipping to any RV'r any time !
I'm not in the office to find out actual cost, my guess is around $10.00 ??
Dan
RV-8 slow building a quick build
www.baysidemarine.com
--- On Sat, 11/8/08, Paul Besing wrote:
From: Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Sealink 12v Recepticle
Date: Saturday, November 8, 2008, 5:42 PM
Ebay..$12.99- Smoking deal.
Ebay item 160107403246
Paul Besing
RV-4 N73DD
Arizona
From: Patrick Kelley <webmaster(at)flion.com>
Sent: Friday, November 7, 2008 3:49:09 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Panel Power Source
--> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick Kelley"
That's similar to the socket that Aerotronics installed in my panel; I like
it.- However, I opted for a different ground power source, especially as
I
intended the socket to power an MP3 player and, besides, don't want to have
to leave my canopy open to power my system.- I have a Battery Tender
(batterytender.com) 1.5 Amp unit, with a permanent connection to my main
battery accessible through the oil filler door.- I find that I can use th
e
system for panel checks and such (I've been wiring my panel and engine for
the past year) without significantly draining the battery and overnight it
is full again.- If you need more than that, they have a 5 Amp model, but
it's much more expensive.- BTW, I discovered them when I needed a good
charger for my motorcycle, which is a replica generator Shovelhead; the
generator does not do a good job of replenishing charge when you make a lot
of short trips, so I generally leave it on charge overnight.- Three years
and both battery and the tender are going strong.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A N156PK - Waiting on the FAA and the DAR
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charles Kuss
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2008 2:41 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Panel Power Source
--> RV-List message posted by: Charles Kuss
I'll make an "improvement" on Jim's recommendation. Obtain a marine
cigarette socket and plug from your local marine supply house (Boat Owners
Warehouse, West Marine, etc). These vendors carry "locking" cigarette
socket/plug combos. These will prevent the plug from vibrating out of the
socket due to rough air or that Lycoming! See
http://www.marinco.com/product/sealink-12v-plug-amp-receptacle
Charlie Kuss
--- On Fri, 11/7/08, James H Nelson wrote:
> From: James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Panel Power Source
> To: RV-List(at)matronics.com
> Date: Friday, November 7, 2008, 12:51 PM
> --> RV-List message posted by: James H Nelson
>
>
> Remember to include a cigaret lighter socket on your panel.
>- When you
> need to power up things on the panel, you need not use the
> battery that
> will start your plane.- By using a spare battery, like the
> one on my CH
> battery powered compressor (Walmart at about $ 70.00),
> plugged in to the
> socket, will provide power for your glass panel etc.- I can
> run my glass
> panels for set ups and setting up my Trutrak etc with out
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Fund Raiser List of Contributors - Please Make A Contribution |
Today!
Each year at the end of the List Fund Raiser, I post a message acknowledging everyone
that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its sort of
my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation
for the Lists.
Won't you take a moment and assure that your name is on that List of Contributors
(LOC)? As a number of members have pointed out over the years, the List seems
at least - if not a whole lot more - valuable as a building/flying/recreating/entertainment
tool as your typical magazine subscription!
Please take minute and assure that your name is on this year's LOC! Show others
that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is
fast and easy using your Credit card or Paypal on the Secure Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551-0347
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps
these Lists going and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about
how the Lists have helped you!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists |
Dear Listers,
There is no advertising income to support the Matronics Email Lists and Forums.
The operation is supported 100% by your personal Contributions during the November
Fund Raiser.
Please make your Contribution today to support the continued operation and upgrade
of these services. You can pick up a really nice gift for making your Contribution
too!
You may use a Credit Card or Paypal at the Matronics Contribution Site here:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or, you can send a personal check to the following address:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551-0347
Thank you in advance for your generous support!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Fund Raiser Lagging Last Year By Over 30%... |
As of the 13th, the Fund Raiser is currently about 30% behind last year in terms
of the number of Contributions. Yet, oddly the number of messages posted per
day is up by 10 to 20% on the average. It costs real money to run these Lists
and they are supported 100% though your Contributions during the Fund Raiser.
Won't you please take a minute right now to make your Contribution to keep
these Lists up and running?
Contribution Page:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fitting the lower cowl |
Gents,
I need some advice regarding fitting the lower engine cowl.
During the fitting, the amount of cowl spinner ring exposed below the
spinner is currently 1/2 inch. Van's plans call for 1/8 to 3/16 inch. But the
flange on the inboard portion of the air intake is bottomed out. Did you trim
the inboard portion of the intake flange on the upper cowl to permit the lower
cowl to move upward and create the correct amount of exposed spinner ring
below the spinner?
Stan Sutterfield
**************Get the Moviefone Toolbar. Showtimes, theaters, movie news &
p://toolbar.aol.com/moviefone/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000001)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Fitting the lower cowl |
You will need to trim the upper cowl flanges behind the spinner somewhat to
get the top and bottom cowl pieces closer. You want the two cowl pieces to
form a circle, slightly larger than the spinner (per Van's guidance 1/8" to
3/16" larger diameter than the 13" spinner). You may need to also trim the
outboard forward cowl flanges as well. Do these after you are happy with
the spinner fit.
Personal preference is to get closer to 1/8" than the 3/16". Not sure if
this is a clearance problem with angled head IO-360s or not.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (450 hrs)
RV-10 (fuselage)
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Speedy11(at)aol.com
Sent: Saturday, November 15, 2008 6:45 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Fitting the lower cowl
Gents,
I need some advice regarding fitting the lower engine cowl.
During the fitting, the amount of cowl spinner ring exposed below the
spinner is currently 1/2 inch. Van's plans call for 1/8 to 3/16 inch. But
the flange on the inboard portion of the air intake is bottomed out. Did
you trim the inboard portion of the intake flange on the upper cowl to
permit the lower cowl to move upward and create the correct amount of
exposed spinner ring below the spinner?
Stan Sutterfield
_____
Get
p://toolbar.aol.com/moviefone/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000001> the
Moviefone Toolbar. Showtimes, theaters, movie news & more!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ALBERT THOMAS <althomas454(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Fitting the lower cowl |
Stan=2C
The objective of trimming the upper and lower cowl flanges around the spinn
er is to get a perfect circle on the cowl. I trimmed mine with the upper an
d
lower cowling off. Using the spinner as the reference I marked the cowling
with Sharpie to lay out the correct position. Some folks want to make the c
ircle a bit high on the cowling to allow for engine sag (1/8 to 1/4 inch is
common) later on.
I ended up cutting about 3/4 an inch off the upper cowling forward flanges
and almost an equal amount off the lower. The final height of the inlet is
suppose to be about 2 1/8 inches high if I remember correctly. You don't wa
nt the inlet to be to big. After getting the fronts trimmed correctly I the
n did the horizontal trimming of the lower cowling with it mounted on the f
irewall. So far it's been pretty straightforward. My last trim will be on t
he horizontal lines of the upper cowling. There will be some filling requir
ed up front but not much. The front top and bottom cowl ended up in a nice
straight line behind the spinner plate. Whole process took about 15 hours.
Albert Thomas
N880AT
From: Speedy11(at)aol.comDate: Sat=2C 15 Nov 2008 18:45:09 -0500Subject: RV8-L
ist: Fitting the lower cowlTo: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
Gents=2C
I need some advice regarding fitting the lower engine cowl.
During the fitting=2C the amount of cowl spinner ring exposed below the spi
nner is currently 1/2 inch. Van's plans call for 1/8 to 3/16 inch. But th
e flange on the inboard portion of the air intake is bottomed out. Did you
trim the inboard portion of the intake flange on the upper cowl to permit
the lower cowl to move upward and create the correct amount of exposed spin
ner ring below the spinner?
Stan Sutterfield
Get the Moviefone Toolbar. Showtimes=2C theaters=2C movie news & more!
_________________________________________________________________
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kl/1T/SkUjm7ViyksSTuPWtSGU/EhPnwDJwI+B+Jq3sETGHWs0AD7ppoBJPvCgY+I/epMSLHYfWk
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mMU9KAE7UCG/xUAz/9k
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John L. Danielson" <jdaniel343(at)bresnan.net> |
I have a Sennheiser HMCE 300 ANR headset for sale.
It is approx. 4 yrs old and is in excellent condition.
Very comfortable and lightweight. It comes with Oregon Aero ear cups and
the original ear cups.
Very nice headset. You wouldn't be disappointed. Reson for selling. I'm
getting out of aviation.
Asking $350 plus shipping.
Please e-mail me off the list at Jdaniel343(at)bresnan.net with any
questions.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | What's My Contribution Used For? |
Dear Listers,
Some have asked, "What's my Contribution used for?" and that's a good question.
Here are just a few examples of what your direct List support enables. It provides
for the very expensive, commercial-grade T1 Internet connection used on
the List insuring maximum performance and minimal contention when accessing
List services. It pays for the regular system hardware and software upgrades
enabling the highest performance possible for services such as the Archive Search
Engine, List Browser, and Forums. It pays for 19+ years worth of online archive
data available for instant random search and access. And, it offsets the
many hours spent writing, developing, and maintaining the custom applications
that power this List Service such as the List Browse, Search Engine, Forums,
Wiki and PhotoShare.
But most importantly, your List Contribution enables a forum where you and your
peers can communicate freely in an environment that is free from moderation,
censorship, advertising, commercialism, SPAM, and computer viruses. How many
places on the Internet can you make all those statements these days?
It is YOUR CONTRIBUTION that directly enables these many aspects of these valuable
List services. Please support it today with your List Contribution. Its
one of the best investments you can make in your Sport...
List Contribution Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV8 : [ Rob Ray ] : New Email List PhotoShare Available! |
| From: | Email List PhotoShares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List PhotoShare is available:
Poster: Rob Ray
Lists: RV-List,Rocket-List,RV4-List,RV8-List
Subject: Vets Day Fly-By...
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/smokyray@rocketmail.com.11.17.2008
----------------------------------------------------------
o Main PhotoShare Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a PhotoShare
If you wish to submit a PhotoShare of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
----------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | What Members Are Saying... |
Dear Listers,
November is the Annual Matronics List Fund Raiser. The Lists are supported solely
through your generous Contributions during this time. Please make your Contribution
today and pick up a really nice free gift at this same time:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Listers have been including some really nice comments regarding what the Lists
mean to them along with their Contributions this year. I've included a few of
them below. Please read them over and see if some perhaps echo your feelings
as well.
Thank you for your support this year!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Best bargain in the entire industry!!
-Owen B
Every year your lists are better, sure #1 in e-mail list in the world.
-Gary G
Thank you for an awesome site!
-Ashley M
Your lists are important to me and well worth paying for.
-Calvin A
Thank you for providing such and informative and ad free environment
to learn by.
-Myron H
As always, a valuable and extremely useful resource.
Stephen T
As always, a great service.
-Reade G
Very much appreciate this site and the communications it has
enabled between builders.
-Larry M
This service is worth every penny.
-Robert S
Great site! Thanks a ton for its functionality!
-Peter B
The RV-10 list feels like my community.
-Dave S
The lists are fantastic, a great source!
-Jimmy Y
I've learned a lot from the List.
-Gabriel F
A wonderful resource.
-Gerald G
Well done.
-Richard N
Years of good service.
-William M
Valuable service.
-Keith H
The site is quite helpful.
-Jon M
Very interesting List that I read form the beginning.
-Alain L
A well managed site.
-Carl B
Great service.
-Svein Kare J
Still the most useful program on the computer.
-Fergus K
Great contribution to my project!
-Robert K
Thanks for keeping a great list.
-Dt G
The List continues to provide excellent information.
-Tony C
This is a wonderful resource that has easily saved me a bunch on
my build-time.
-Ralph C
Thank you for providing a great service. The Zenith builder's community
would be in sad shape without the Zenith-List's.
-Terrence P
I really do get pleasure out of reading the List every day.
-Bill V
Great source of information.
-Arthur V
Thanks for a great service. Very enjoyable.
-Louis B
You know we all could not do without your support!!
-James S
Great resource!
-Douglas D
Thanks for the great service.
-John B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Behind By 21% - Advertising May Be Needed...? |
Dear Listers,
The percentage of people making a Contribution to support the Lists this year is
currently lagging behind last year by approximately 21%! I'm hoping that everyone
is just waiting until the last minute to show their support... ;-)
Please remember that it is solely your direct Contributions that keep these Lists
up and running and most importantly - AD FREE! If the members don't want to
support the Lists directly, then I will likely have to start adding advertisements
to offset the costs of running the Lists. But I *really* don't want to
have to start doing that. I really like the non-commercial atmosphere here and
I think that a lot of the members appreciate that too.
Please take a moment to make a Contribution today in support of the continued ad-free
operation of all these Lists:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
I want to send out a word of appreciation to all of the members that have already
made their generous Contribution to support the Lists! Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Grajek <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Behind By 21% - Advertising May Be Needed...? |
Hey Mike:
Sorry to be lagging behind this year. You will have my contribution by Mond
ay.
Keep up the great work
AL Grajek> Date: Thu=2C 20 Nov 2008 00:24:59 -0800> To: rv8-list@matronics.
com> From: dralle(at)matronics.com> Subject: RV8-List: Behind By 21% - Adverti
le(at)matronics.com>> > Dear Listers=2C> > The percentage of people making a C
ontribution to support the Lists this year is currently lagging behind last
year by approximately 21%! I'm hoping that everyone is just waiting until
the last minute to show their support... =3B-)> > Please remember that it i
s solely your direct Contributions that keep these Lists up and running and
most importantly - AD FREE! If the members don't want to support the Lists
directly=2C then I will likely have to start adding advertisements to offs
et the costs of running the Lists. But I *really* don't want to have to sta
rt doing that. I really like the non-commercial atmosphere here and I think
that a lot of the members appreciate that too.> > Please take a moment to
make a Contribution today in support of the continued ad-free operation of
all these Lists:> > http://www.matronics.com/contribution> > I want to send
out a word of appreciation to all of the members that have already made th
eir generous Contribution to support the Lists! Thank you!> > Matt Dralle>
=======================> > >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Plexiglass Scratch Repair... |
Dear Listers,
During the fitting of the Plexiglass canopy on my RV-8, I managed to put some pretty
disheartening scratches in the windscreen section. You can see from the
pictures that they looked pretty bad. A call to Van's revealed that a replacement
canopy would be $640 + $250 shipping to California! Ack.
So what to do... A bit of surfing and I found this "Scratch Off" windshield repair
kit for $35 on the Aircraft Spruce web site:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/scratchoff.php
Frankly, it just seemed too good to be true. Nothing for $35 could be that "magic"
I thought, but what did I have to lose at this point....
Well, the kit arrived yesterday and I decided to give it a try tonight. In a word:
WOW! In about 2 hours the windscreen looked as good as new - no kidding
- AS GOOD AS NEW! The pictures really don't do the repair justice. It looks
better in person.
There are basically two sponges in the kit with four decreasingly porous pastes.
You just put some of the first paste on the sponge and buff it in with a drill
at 1200 RPM or less. Then you wash everything down good including the sponge
and windshield with warm water. Then you use the next finer paste and repeat
the process. Etc, etc, until you've used the 4th paste that is kind of like
car wax.
Frankly, the scratches were gone after the first application of paste - I started
at #2 based on the instructions and the "observed severity" of the scratch
depth.
So, the bottom line is, if you've got scuffs or mild scratches in your Plexiglass
buy this repair kit. It works!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Dear Listers,
Each year at the end of the List Fund Raiser, I post a message acknowledging everyone
that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its sort
of my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation
for the Lists.
Won't you take a moment and assure that your name is on that List of Contributors
(LOC)? As a number of members have pointed out over the years, the List seems
at least - if not a whole lot more - valuable as a building/flying/recreating/entertainment
tool as your typical magazine subscription!
Please take minute and assure that your name is on this year's LOC! Show others
that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is
fast and easy using your Credit card or Paypal on the Secure Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by popping a personal check in the mail to:
Matronics Email Lists
c/o Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551-0347
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps
these Lists going and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about
how the Lists have helped you!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Value of the List... |
If you look forward to checking your List email everyday (and a lot of you have
written to say that you do!), then you're probably getting at least $20 or $30
worth of Entertainment from the Lists each year. You'd pay twice that for a
subscription to some lame magazine or even just a single dinner out. Isn't the
List worth at least that much to you?
Won't you please take a minute to make your Contribution today and support the
Lists?
Contribution Page:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Again, I want to say THANK YOU to everyone that has made a Contribution thus far
during this year's List Fund Raiser!! These Lists are made possible exclusively
through YOUR generosity!!
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Just A Few More Days... |
Dear Listers,
There are just a few more days left in this year's List Fund Raiser. There are
some great gifts available when you make a qualifying Contribution and there's
plenty still available. Don't forget that its *your* Contribution that keeps
the computers running, the electricity turned on, and the computer room AC cooling!
If you look forward to reading your List email each day, won't you please take
a minute right now to make your personal Contribution?
Credit Card or Paypal:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Personal Check:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94550
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Just 3 Days Left - Please Make Your List Contribution Today! |
There are only three days left until the end of this year's List Fund Raiser.
Please take a minute to show your support as so many others have this year and
make sure YOUR name is on the forthcoming List of Contributors 2008!
Its quick and easy using the secure web site with a credit card or PayPal:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by sending your personal check to:
Matronics Lists c/o Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551-0347
(Please write your email address on the check!)
Thank you in advance for your support of these List services!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | What Listers Have Been Saying |
Wow! Many of the members making a List Support Contribution this year have been
using the Comments field to leave a personal message about the Lists. Thank
you! I have included a number of them below. Please read over a few and see
if you perhaps can echo some of the same sentiments regarding the value of the
Lists to you...
There is only a couple more days left for this year's List Fund Raiser and we're
still way behind previous years. If you've been waiting until the last minute
to show your support, Now is the Time! Please make your Contribution and pick
up a great gift at the same time!
By Credit Card or Paypal:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or By Personal Check:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94550-7227
Thank you in advance!!
Matt Dralle
Email List and Forums Administrator
Here is some of the great feedback members have been including along with their
personal Contributions this year...
Over the years, the info I have received from the RV-List has
saved me thousands of dollars, and dozens of hours of time by
helping me avoid bad purchases, pointing me at vendors with
low prices and excellent support, and providing solutions to
the typical head scratchers that you run into.
Kevin H
Valuable service. Best List(s) on the Internet!
George A
Please accept this token not as an indicator of what
this list has been worth to me this past year.
Lew G
Great information and entertainment.
Tim V
Thanks again for another great year of service. This
project would be beyond me if it were not for the list.
Moreover, the friendships I have found are worth their
weight in GOLD!
Robert B
Great support you provide to all the subscribers!
Freddie H
Read it every day.
PF B
Thanks for your excellent management of the Matronics
Lists! Your services are head and shoulders above the
rest.
James M
Without the "List", there would be no Kolb "community".
Bill T
Thanks, Matt, for a great service! I've been monitoring
and using the lists since 1999.
Richard D
Thanks for such a terrific site and for all the work and
effort you put into it.
John R
A great service year after year.
John D
..another year of fantastic service.
Jerry B
This list is a great resource.
Arden A
Great list.
James M
Lists were a great help while building HRII N561FS.
John S
Great resources for both the beginner and experienced.
George R
Good service.
Gary G
The List is an invaluable resource!
William C
AeroElectric list is a great source of info and learning!
Janice J
Thank you, Matt for being there for us making it all happen
on the List for so many years - Great JOB!
Sam S
Thank you for providing a great venue. You definitely hit
the nail on the head with your solicitation asking if
readers look forward to receiving the email digests. I
certainly do and when I move from a dreamer to a builder, I
expect the anticipation will only increase.
Joe S
Thanks for a Perfect working list.
Hans-Peter R
Great List
Bryan K
Such a great selection of valuable forums!
David G
Nice job!
Walt E
Good resource...
Robert P
Thank you for another great year!
Scott S
I could not do this without you...
Robert D
I believe I've been a list member for over a decade
now. Thanks for the service!
Tim L
Great List
Hendrik W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Last "Official" Day Of The List Fund Raiser! |
Dear Listers,
Its November 30th and that means three things:..
1) Today I am now officially 45 years old...
2) It marks that last "official" day of this year's List Fund Raiser!
3) Its the last day I will be bugging everyone for a whole year!
If you use the Lists and enjoy the content and the no-advertising, no-spam, and
no-censorship way in which they're run, please make a Contribution today to support
their continued operation and upkeep. Your $20 or $30 goes a long way
to keep the List bills paid.
I will be posting the List of Contributors next week so make sure your name is
on it!
Thank you to everyone that has made a Contribution so far this year! It is greatly
appreciated.
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | List of Contributors 2008 |
Dear Listers,
This year's Fund Raiser has drawn to a close and I want to thank everyone that
so generously made a contribution this year in support of the Matronics Email
List and Forum operation. Your generosity keeps the wheels on this cart and I
truly appreciate the many kind words of encouragement and financial reimbursement.
If you haven't yet made a Contribution in support of this year's Fund Raiser, please
feel free to do so. The great List Fund Raiser gifts will be available
on the Contribution site for a little while longer, so hurry and make your Contribution
today and still get your great gift! Once again, the URL for the Contribution
web site is:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by personal check to:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551-0347
I would like to thank Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore ( http://www.buildersbooks.com ), Jon Croke of HomebuiltHELP ( http://www.homebuilthelp.com ) and Bob Nuckolls of AeroElectric ( http://www.aeroelectric.com ) for their extremely generous support during this year's Fund Raiser through the contribution of discounted merchandise. These are great guys that support the aviation industry and I encourage each and every Lister to have a look at their products. Thank you Andy, Jon and Bob!! Your support is very much appreciated!
And finally, below you will find a web link to the 2008 List of Contributors current
as of 12/7/08! Have a look at this list of names as *these* are the people
that make all of these List services possible! I can't thank each of you
enough for your support and great feedback during this year's Fund Raiser!
THANK YOU!
http://www.matronics.com/loc/2008.html
I will be shipping out all of the gifts around the end of December. In most cases,
gifts will be shipped via US Postal Service.
Once again, thank you for making this year's List Fund Raiser successful!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Grajek <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Microair Transponder |
I hav a Microair T2000SFL Transponder for sale.
$1500 with harness!
jetjocal(at)gmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Full Glass Panel... |
Dear Listers,
The panel on the RV-8 got the first power up today. I interconnected all of the
major instrument panel devices to the Vertical Power VP-200 electrical system
and powered everything up. In the center screen, you can see Mt Diablo in California.
I was playing back a flight from a portable GPS I use in the rental
plane. Notice the top of the mountain is RED which means that its above our
current altitude (from the playback). The Kenwood is playing a James Bond movie...
The Vertical Power VP-200 system is very cool, btw. It is basically an electrical
system in a box plus a whole lot more. I highly recommend the system. Makes
wiring a snap!
Components include:
3ea GRT Horizon I HX EFIS 3D Displays
XM Weather Radar module for GRT HXs
Vertical Power VP-200 power system
Garmin SL-30 Nav/Com
Garmin GTX-327 Transponder
TruTrak DII VSGV Autopilot
Matronics FuelChex DX
Kenwood DNX-8120 Entertainment w/ XM and Nav
Yahoo!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | GPS Serial Data to Garmin GTX-327 Transponder |
Listers,
I've tried sending two different sources of NMEA 0183 data at 4800/9600/19200/38400/57600
baud rates to my Garmin GTX-327 on both serial input ports 1 (db25
Pin 2) and port 2 (db25 pin 19), and configured for "GPS" input. But I don't
get anything on the GTX-327 serial input test display. I have been successful
at getting AirData Z-format from the GRT EFIS at 9600 baud into either of the
GTX-327 serial ports, so the ports are good. The NMEA 0183 data registers correctly
on other devices reading it so the GPS serial output seem fine. The GTX-327
just won't seem to see the GPS data for some reason.
Am I doing something wrong? Has anyone else tried this successfully?
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "SteinAir, Inc." <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | GPS Serial Data to Garmin GTX-327 Transponder |
Hi Matt,
Don't do it in "test" mode. It should be 4800 (IIRC) from the GRT, and then
setup the input on the GTX RS232 port. If you turn both on in normal mode
you should see the PressAlt on the GTX327. It's worked for us hundreds of
times!
Cheers,
Stein
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
>Sent: Friday, January 02, 2009 12:44 PM
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: GPS Serial Data to Garmin GTX-327 Transponder
>
>
>Listers,
>
>I've tried sending two different sources of NMEA 0183 data at
>4800/9600/19200/38400/57600 baud rates to my Garmin GTX-327 on
>both serial input ports 1 (db25 Pin 2) and port 2 (db25 pin 19),
>and configured for "GPS" input. But I don't get anything on the
>GTX-327 serial input test display. I have been successful at
>getting AirData Z-format from the GRT EFIS at 9600 baud into
>either of the GTX-327 serial ports, so the ports are good. The
>NMEA 0183 data registers correctly on other devices reading it so
>the GPS serial output seem fine. The GTX-327 just won't seem to
>see the GPS data for some reason.
>
>Am I doing something wrong? Has anyone else tried this successfully?
>
>
>Thanks!
>
>Matt Dralle
>RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Double Sided Tape used to bend Trim Tab ends |
Greetings:
The only Double Sided Tape I could find at the hardware store was Scotch Brand
Double sided tape - looks like regular Scotch tape used on paper, except it is
sticky on BOTH sides. It seems that this tape might be a little to fragile to
help hold the wood forming blocks from moving the Trim Tab Skin, while bending
the Tabs. Have not tried it yet = trying to minimize my mistakes.
Any suggestions: What TAPE did you use and where did you buy it ???
Thanks, Garey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Double Sided Tape used to bend Trim Tab ends |
I used "carpet tape" from Home Depot. Really thin, double-sided, strong
sticky. Worked well.
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100119194
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BO4QZ0
--
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
On Fri, Jan 2, 2009 at 10:19 PM, Garey Wittich
wrote:
>
> Greetings:
>
> The only Double Sided Tape I could find at the hardware store was Scotch
> Brand Double sided tape - looks like regular Scotch tape used on paper,
> except it is sticky on BOTH sides. It seems that this tape might be a
> little to fragile to help hold the wood forming blocks from moving the Trim
> Tab Skin, while bending the Tabs. Have not tried it yet = trying to
> minimize my mistakes.
>
> Any suggestions: What TAPE did you use and where did you buy it ???
>
> Thanks, Garey
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Dwg 4 Error ( Left Elevator Assy - RV7 & RV8) |
Possibly wrong dimension shown: Lower right corner of Dwg 4 "Electric Trim Assy"
shows a dimension of - 3/8" Forward edge of EET-602B-L to forward edge of E-616PP:
The exposed "lip" on the E-615PP (Trim Access Plate) after being riveting
it to the Elev Skin is 3/8" wide. Thus the 3/8" dimension shown should be more
like 1/2". I noticed this problem AFTER drilling, dimpling and clecoing the
EET-602B-L & R to the Trim Cover Plate and trying to screw down the Trim Access
Plate (interference between the E615PP Reinforcing Plate and the EET-602B-L
& R occurred). Hope this helps somebody !!
Found the EET-602B-L & R were labeled wrong on the Parts = L should be R and R
should be L
Guess this ALL part of the learning curve - sure is frustrating.
Garey Santa Monica, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-8 Canopy Removal |
For folks who have finished the canopy, I'd like to know how you remove it
should you need to. As I fit mine today, even before the skirt is on it, the
canopy almost touches the vertical stabilizer before the Delrin slider block
clears the slider. With the skirt on, I wonder how you can remove the canopy
other than removing the slider?
Stan Sutterfield
_www.rv-8a.net_ (http://www.rv-8a.net)
**************Know Your Numbers: Get tips and tools to help you improve your
credit score.
(http://www.walletpop.com/credit/credit-reports?ncid=emlcntuswall00000002)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy Removal |
Stan, your kidding right? Just slide it rearward until it gets to the end of
the track, lift the front off the roller stubs and then slid it rearward
some more until the nylon attachment bracket passes the slide rail. Then lift
it
off. Its not much of a problem until you get the skirts on. Then getting it
off is about the same, but you cannot set it on a table as before because the
thin fiberglass skirts extend below the frame and should not be allowed to
support the weight of the canopy. I made a special bench to support the canopy
on the normal three points. Best regards, Bill
**************From Wall Street to Main Street and everywhere in between, stay
up-to-date with the latest news. (http://aol.com?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000023)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Myers" <jmyers(at)flyingmranch.us> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy Removal |
Stan, I just pull the pin on the UHMW/Delrin slide block and lift
straight off. I have seen a few that machined off the sides of the
slide rail at the rear so that once they pull the front bolts or pins,
slide to the back, they can just lift straight up and off. Most folks
put a short piece of wood/dowel/or whatever in the left or right slide
to keep the canopy from going all the way to the rear in order to keep
the handle from hitting at the rear, so in normal operation, the canopy
never actually gets to the very rear of the slide. Then when you are
ready to remove it, pull the front bolts, slide back to the machined out
area of the slide and then lift up. Clear as mud? sorry don't have a
picture.
As I said, I didn't want to cut the slide, so I go to the trouble of
pulling the pin in the UHMW/Delrin block so it stays on the rail when I
pull the canopy.
Hope that helps.
John
----- Original Message -----
From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, January 23, 2009 8:47 PM
Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Canopy Removal
For folks who have finished the canopy, I'd like to know how you
remove it should you need to. As I fit mine today, even before the
skirt is on it, the canopy almost touches the vertical stabilizer before
the Delrin slider block clears the slider. With the skirt on, I wonder
how you can remove the canopy other than removing the slider?
Stan Sutterfield
www.rv-8a.net
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Know Your Numbers: Get tips and tools to help you improve your credit
score.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy Removal |
Bill,
No kidding.
I've made a carrier for the canopy also and it works great.
But, as I was removing the canopy yesterday with the skirt temporarily
clamped in place, the trailing edge of the skirt hit the rudder before the nylon
attachment bracket reached the end of the slider track!
I was very surprised and wondered if others had experienced the same thing.
I guess not.
I'll take another look at it today and see if I'm doing something wrong.
Thanks,
Stan
_www.rv-8a.net_ (http://www.rv-8a.net)
Stan, your kidding right? Just slide it rearward until it gets to the end
of
the track, lift the front off the roller stubs and then slid it rearward
some more until the nylon attachment bracket passes the slide rail. Then
lift
it
off. Its not much of a problem until you get the skirts on. Then getting it
off is about the same, but you cannot set it on a table as before because
the
thin fiberglass skirts extend below the frame and should not be allowed to
support the weight of the canopy. I made a special bench to support the
canopy
on the normal three points. Best regards, Bill
**************Know Your Numbers: Get tips and tools to help you improve your
credit score.
(http://www.walletpop.com/credit/credit-reports?ncid=emlcntuswall00000002)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy Removal |
At 06:47 PM 1/23/2009 Friday, you wrote:
>For folks who have finished the canopy, I'd like to know how you remove it should
you need to. As I fit mine today, even before the skirt is on it, the canopy
almost touches the vertical stabilizer before the Delrin slider block clears
the slider. With the skirt on, I wonder how you can remove the canopy other
than removing the slider?
>Stan Sutterfield
><http://www.rv-8a.net>www.rv-8a.net
Hi Stan,
Well, as luck would have it, I don't have a single picture with the canopy slid
all the way back taken from the rear. However, I fit the Plexi and the skirts
and was able to remove the canopy without a problem. It comes close to the
vertical stab but it clears alright.
Here are a bunch of pictures of my RV-8 installation. Be sure to cycle though
all the various entries including the skirt installation after the scratch removal
section.
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=2973&log=67121&row=24
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV (res)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy Removal |
| From: | Bert Murillo <bertrv6(at)gmail.com> |
Stan: I have an rv6a, so I do not know on the 8, but the canopy when
all the way back, is plenty
of space before it will touch the V. S.
as to remove, the canopy, again on the rv6, is held only by two
screws, that hold the front
ends into the rollers, in the front. The center, of course is the
rail, in which the plastic,piece, that
is attached to the top rail, will slide back and forth..
To remove the canopy, you unsrew the two front bolts, then some one
helping ( you need two
people, or you will bang all the paint around, don't ask me why I
know this) will keep canopy
straight and level, you slide it all the way back until it passes the
end of the rail, then the canopy
is totally free. One person hold the front, the other one side, and
moving carefully move out
of the plane... is not that easy, as I said, it is heavy than one thinks...
A stron guy maybe can lift it all by himself I could not do it....
To install it back reverese the process..
Hope this will add to the prebious info.
bert
rv6a
On Sat, Jan 24, 2009 at 12:26 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> At 06:47 PM 1/23/2009 Friday, you wrote:
>>For folks who have finished the canopy, I'd like to know how you remove it should
you need to. As I fit mine today, even before the skirt is on it, the canopy
almost touches the vertical stabilizer before the Delrin slider block clears
the slider. With the skirt on, I wonder how you can remove the canopy other
than removing the slider?
>>Stan Sutterfield
>><http://www.rv-8a.net>www.rv-8a.net
>
> Hi Stan,
>
> Well, as luck would have it, I don't have a single picture with the canopy slid
all the way back taken from the rear. However, I fit the Plexi and the skirts
and was able to remove the canopy without a problem. It comes close to the
vertical stab but it clears alright.
>
> Here are a bunch of pictures of my RV-8 installation. Be sure to cycle though
all the various entries including the skirt installation after the scratch removal
section.
>
> http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=2973&log=67121&row=24
>
> Best regards,
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV (res)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Routing Elevator Trim Tab Servo Wires |
Greetings:
Looking for a better solution than routing the Trim Tab Servo wires thru the hole
in the Elevator Spar (where the long Servo Motor Screw goes).
Does anybody have any pictures or diagrams of the Wire Routing of the Trim Tab
Motor wires in the Elevator to the Horizontal STABILIZER to the fuselage.
Not much given on this subject on Matronics.
Thanks, Garey Santa Monica, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Routing Elevator Trim Tab Servo Wires |
At 10:01 PM 1/24/2009 Saturday, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Garey Wittich
>
>Greetings:
>
>Looking for a better solution than routing the Trim Tab Servo wires thru the hole
in the Elevator Spar (where the long Servo Motor Screw goes).
>
>Does anybody have any pictures or diagrams of the Wire Routing of the Trim Tab
Motor wires in the Elevator to the Horizontal STABILIZER to the fuselage.
>
>Not much given on this subject on Matronics.
>
>Thanks, Garey Santa Monica, CA
Hi Garey,
I just did this task. I simply drilled a 1/4" hole above the servo screw hole
and added a little black plastic bushing. Attached is a picture.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV (res)
Building Time Since July 2008: 728.75 Hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Ciolino" <johnciolino(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy Removal |
Stan,
My canopy skirt also hit the VS and I had to trim the trailing edge some
to make sure it did not hit. I trimmed enough to be able to slide the
nylon attachment bracket off the rail. Of course that meant the initial
fit the canopy skirt at the aft end no longer worked and I had to
reposition it. (Do over - the story of my building life.)
Once you trim enough to be able to remove the canopy you also want to
install the empennage fairing (temporarily) to the VS and make sure the
skirt does not hit that is everyday use. That should not be a problem.
As someone else mentioned, you need install the canopy latch. You will
find that the canopy latch handle will hit the aft fuselage bulkhead and
a stop has to be installed in the canopy rail to prevent this. This
also limits how far back the skirt will travel. The amount of travel you
need to clear the empennage fairing in everyday use is less than if you
want to remove the canopy.
In order to remove my finished canopy without removing the nylon slider,
I have to remove the empennage fairing, lift the front of the canopy
just enough to pull the rollers out and I can then slide the nylon
bracket off the rail. It is a 2 person job.
John Ciolino
Working on final assembly.
From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2009 11:24 AM
Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV-8 Canopy Removal
Bill,
No kidding.
I've made a carrier for the canopy also and it works great.
But, as I was removing the canopy yesterday with the skirt temporarily
clamped in place, the trailing edge of the skirt hit the rudder before
the nylon attachment bracket reached the end of the slider track!
I was very surprised and wondered if others had experienced the same
thing. I guess not.
I'll take another look at it today and see if I'm doing something wrong.
Thanks,
Stan
www.rv-8a.net
Stan, your kidding right? Just slide it rearward until it gets to the
end of
the track, lift the front off the roller stubs and then slid it
rearward
some more until the nylon attachment bracket passes the slide rail.
Then lift
it
off. Its not much of a problem until you get the skirts on. Then
getting it
off is about the same, but you cannot set it on a table as before
because the
thin fiberglass skirts extend below the frame and should not be
allowed to
support the weight of the canopy. I made a special bench to support
the canopy
on the normal three points. Best regards, Bill
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
Know Your Numbers: Get tips and tools to help you improve your credit
score.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy Removal |
My sincere appreciation to all who replied. Great ideas which made me think.
John, I hadn't even considered your idea of pulling the pin in the Delrin
block - great idea. thanks.
I am going to put a stop at the aft limit of the side rails to keep the
canopy from banging at the back.
I had heard of machining the slot in the slider rail, but didn't want to do
that unless required.
Thanks again to everyone. The net is such an asset for us. It's hard to
imagine building in, say, 1950 when even telephones were not common. The early
builders were real aviation pioneers.
Stan Sutterfield
Stan, I just pull the pin on the UHMW/Delrin slide block and lift
straight off. I have seen a few that machined off the sides of the
slide rail at the rear so that once they pull the front bolts or pins,
slide to the back, they can just lift straight up and off. Most folks
put a short piece of wood/dowel/or whatever in the left or right slide
to keep the canopy from going all the way to the rear in order to keep
the handle from hitting at the rear, so in normal operation, the canopy
never actually gets to the very rear of the slide. Then when you are
ready to remove it, pull the front bolts, slide back to the machined out
area of the slide and then lift up. Clear as mud? sorry don't have a
picture.
As I said, I didn't want to cut the slide, so I go to the trouble of
pulling the pin in the UHMW/Delrin block so it stays on the rail when I
pull the canopy.
Hope that helps.
John
**************Know Your Numbers: Get tips and tools to help you improve your
credit score.
(http://www.walletpop.com/credit/credit-reports?ncid=emlcntuswall00000002)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Dralle Scratches |
Matt,
I didn't read all the way through your log to see if you solved the
windscreen scratch problem, but should you decide to replace the windscreen, don't
buy a new canopy. I've got a Van's canopy that cracked about halfway back and
the windscreen portion is fine - in fact, it's already trimmed to fit. How
about $50 + shipping? Or better yet, you pay shipping and we'll make it my
donation to next years Matronics fund raising effort.
If Matt doesn't need it and someone else on the net needs a windscreen, let
me know.
Stan Sutterfield
Daytona Beach, FL
Here are a bunch of pictures of my RV-8 installation. Be sure to cycle
though
all the various entries including the skirt installation after the scratch
removal
section
**************Know Your Numbers: Get tips and tools to help you improve your
credit score.
(http://www.walletpop.com/credit/credit-reports?ncid=emlcntuswall00000002)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dralle Scratches |
Hi Stan,
Thank you for the generous offer! However, turns out that I later got a huge crack
in the rear part of the canopy and had to buy a whole new one too... :-(
For as totally sweet as the new Pre-Punched kits go together, I have to say that
this archaic canopy design really needs to be updated. I'd pay an extra $1000
to have a canopy that was already perfectly cut to size. Oh, wait, I already
did... ;-/
Matt
At 04:05 AM 1/25/2009 Sunday, you wrote:
>Matt,
>I didn't read all the way through your log to see if you solved the windscreen
scratch problem, but should you decide to replace the windscreen, don't buy a
new canopy. I've got a Van's canopy that cracked about halfway back and the
windscreen portion is fine - in fact, it's already trimmed to fit. How about
$50 + shipping? Or better yet, you pay shipping and we'll make it my donation
to next years Matronics fund raising effort.
>If Matt doesn't need it and someone else on the net needs a windscreen, let me
know.
>Stan Sutterfield
>Daytona Beach, FL
>
>Here are a bunch of pictures of my RV-8 installation. Be sure to cycle though
>all the various entries including the skirt installation after the scratch removal
>section
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy Removal |
Stan, I didn't understand what you meant that the VS was in the way. Yes,
once the VS is mounted the canopy skirt will hit it before the nylon keeper
bracket slides off the rail. I guess you pull the keeper pin and remove it and
lift off the canopy. Sorry about my smart ass response earlier. I've given up
booze and tobacco in the last couple months and my mind has left me. Best
regards, Bill
**************From Wall Street to Main Street and everywhere in between, stay
up-to-date with the latest news. (http://aol.com?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000023)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Flap Sensor - A Simple Installation Design...? |
Does anyone have a simple, reliable installation design for the little position
sensor from MAC Trim when used with the Electric Flap option on the PP QB RV-8?
I've scratched my head for few hours now and have some ideas, but nothing
that really seems like its simple enough or not prone to jamming. What have other
builders done? Pictures would be great!
Thanks,
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880/N998RV (res)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Welsh <chriswelsh(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Flap Sensor - A Simple Installation Design...? |
Matt-
I just recently installed the flap position sensor in my SLOW build RV8.-
Like many before me, I just used a clevis and pushrod from an RC plane.-
I also installed a flaps up limit switch since I have a (ON)-OFF-ON switch
on the stick.
Chris Welsh,
Livermore, CA
--- On Tue, 2/3/09, Matt Dralle wrote:
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Flap Sensor - A Simple Installation Design...?
Date: Tuesday, February 3, 2009, 8:04 PM
Does anyone have a simple, reliable installation design for the little posi
tion
sensor from MAC Trim when used with the Electric Flap option on the PP QB R
V-8?
I've scratched my head for few hours now and have some ideas, but nothing
that really seems like its simple enough or not prone to jamming. What hav
e
other builders done? Pictures would be great!
Thanks,
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880/N998RV (res)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Schattauer <chasm711(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Flap Sensor - A Simple Installation Design...? |
Matt
Designing neat stuff to put in our airplanes is always fun. I installed a
gascolator on the firewall. Beautiful mounting and fuel line installation.
It cost money=2C took time=2C added weight and complexity. It is absolut
ely worthless=2C but pretty. Your flaps and their position are instantly a
nd easily visible from the cockpit. The only positions you really care abo
ut setting without looking around are full up and full down and and the swi
tch takes care of that. Paint a short line on the leading edge of the flap
where it goes under the top skin if you need exact intermediate settings.
I'm sure an indicator has been done but I have never seen one. Good luck
=2C have fun and don't let anyone tell you what to put in your airplane.
Paul Schattauer
RV8 N808PS
> Date: Tue=2C 3 Feb 2009 20:04:03 -0800
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> From: dralle(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Flap Sensor - A Simple Installation Design...?
>
>
> Does anyone have a simple=2C reliable installation design for the little
position sensor from MAC Trim when used with the Electric Flap option on th
e PP QB RV-8? I've scratched my head for few hours now and have some ideas
=2C but nothing that really seems like its simple enough or not prone to ja
mming. What have other builders done? Pictures would be great!
>
> Thanks=2C
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880/N998RV (res)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Flap Sensor - A Simple Installation Design...? |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Matt, it's your plane - build it anyway you want. I'm building a 8a now and completed?a
Zenith 601XL a few years ago. On the XL I installed a flap indicator.
I have never looked at it on landing or even taxi off and would have to search
to even find it now. I just peek out the canopy and instantly know what is what
and I don't have to come back into the cockpit at a critical moment (just
prior ro flair). On my 8a I'm going useful and needful only. Complex don't make
her fly any faster.?Best regards, Bill of Georgia?
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Schattauer <chasm711(at)msn.com>
Sent: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 12:07 pm
Subject: RE: RV8-List: RV-8 Flap Sensor - A Simple Installation Design...?
Matt
Designing neat stuff to put in our airplanes is always fun.? I installed a gascolator
on the firewall.? Beautiful mounting and fuel line installation.? It cost
money, took time, added weight and complexity.? It is absolutely worthless,
but pretty.? Your flaps and their position are instantly and easily visible from
the cockpit.? The only positions you really care about setting without looking
around are full up and full down and and the switch takes care of that.?
Paint a short line on the leading edge of the flap where it goes under the top
skin if you need exact intermediate settings.? I'm sure an indicator has been
done but I have never seen one.? Good luck, have fun and don't let anyone tell
you what to put in your airplane.
Paul Schattauer
RV8 N808PS
> Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 20:04:03 -0800
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> From: dralle(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Flap Sensor - A Simple Installation Design...?
>
>
> Does anyone have a simple, reliable installation design for the little position
sensor from MAC Trim when used with the Electric Flap option on the PP QB RV-8?
I've scratched my head for few hours now and have some ideas, but nothing
that really seems like its simple enough or not prone to jamming. What have other
builders done? Pictures would be great!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880/N998RV (res)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glen Matejcek <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Flap Sensor - A Simple Installation Design...? |
Hi Bill-
I've got a QQ WRT "I just peek out the canopy and instantly know what is what..."
How well does that work at night?
Glen Matejcek
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Flap Sensor - A Simple Installation Design...? |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Glen, even better. For night landings I always have my lights on. When it's really
a problem is when I make night landings with my eyes closed.
They always make the hair stand up on the back of my neck. Best regards, Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Glen Matejcek <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 6:41 am
Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV-8 Flap Sensor - A Simple Installation Design...?
Hi Bill-
I've got a QQ WRT "I just peek out the canopy and instantly know what is
what..."
How well does that work at night?
Glen Matejcek
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glen Matejcek <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Flap Sensor - A Simple Installation Design...? |
Hi Bill-
>Glen, even better. For night landings I always have my lights on...
Does this mean the random difraction and / or reflection of the landing lights
is adequate to gauge the flap position, or does the beacon do it for you, or how
exactly are you seeing the flap position at night?
Glen Matejcek
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Flap Sensor - A Simple Installation Design...? |
Glen, I have white paint on my flaps and wings. Very shinny white paint.
They reflect light very well so I can see when the flaps are down. I have a tail
light at the bottom of my rudder. I suspect that light reflects off of the
white underside of the horizontal stabilizer and elevator onto the upper rear
wing surface and flap. The rear light is a constant beam bulb that has a 210
degree defuse lens. I figure that is how I can see the top of the wing in the
dark. Do I detect from your reply some disbelief from your tone? Could it be
you never fly at night and look outside at you wings and see them? That must
be pretty scary not to be able to see your wings. Perhaps you fly planes
with little bitty wings and even smaller flaps or your vision is poor. I think
you should have a large well lite flap indicator in your plane. A very large
one so you'll always know when your flaps are up or down in the dark. Best
regards, Bill
**************Who's never won? Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on
AOL Music.
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?ncid=emlcntusmusi00000003)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | GRT AHRS Pitch & Roll Calibration... |
How do I adjust the pitch and roll calibration of the AHRS on the Grand Rapids
EFIS HX AHRS? I go into the AHRS Maintenance page and find the Pitch and Roll
numbers for AHRS 1 and for AHRS 2, but when I select "Change", but none of the
numbers are adjustable. I mounted my dual AHRS as level as I possibly could,
but there's no way a mere mortal such as myself could possible get it perfect.
Surely you are allowed to dial in the pitch and roll attitudes........?
Thanks for the help!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 / N998RV (res)
________________________________________________________________________________
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GRT AHRS Pitch & Roll Calibration... |
Matt,
On the Settings Menu/Primary Flight Display there is a "Pitch Ladder Offset
" that can be adjusted to +- 15 degrees.
There is no adjustment for roll.- GRT states that the AHRS and magnetomet
er must be installed level in roll, and I believe this is critical for stab
ility.- If your mounting shelf isn't perfect, use shims between the mount
ing flange and your mounting bracket to get it level.- You'll also want t
o make sure that your mounting brackets won't flex under "G" and vibrate fr
om engine vibrations.
Skylor
RV-8 Under Construction
Finishing...
--- On Sat, 2/7/09, Matt Dralle wrote:
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RV8-List: GRT AHRS Pitch & Roll Calibration...
Date: Saturday, February 7, 2009, 8:42 PM
How do I adjust the pitch and roll calibration of the AHRS on the Grand Rap
ids
EFIS HX AHRS? I go into the AHRS Maintenance page and find the Pitch and R
oll
numbers for AHRS 1 and for AHRS 2, but when I select "Change", but
none of the numbers are adjustable. I mounted my dual AHRS as level as I
possibly could, but there's no way a mere mortal such as myself could
possible get it perfect. Surely you are allowed to dial in the pitch and r
oll
attitudes........?
Thanks for the help!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 / N998RV (res)
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: GRT AHRS Pitch & Roll Calibration... |
| From: | "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Thanks for the feedback. I also heard back from GRT tech support and they said
that anything under .5 degrees is fine. I'm right around .2 degrees in both
pitch and roll, so I guess that's close enough.
Matt
--------
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229788#229788
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/20090208__rv_8__ahrs_pitch_and_roll_ajustment_bracket_9_267.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: GRT AHRS Pitch & Roll Calibration... |
| From: | "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Here's one more shot to prove it looks alright at .2degrees... :-)
Matt
--------
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229791#229791
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/20090208__rv_8__ahrs_pitch_and_roll_ajustment_bracket_8_872.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator Horn Weldment - Installation |
Greetings:
Ref - RV-8A:
When trying to attach the Elev Horn Weldment to the Elev Spar and Root Rib, the
Weldment did NOT lay flat against the Spar and Root Rib simultaneously. Measured
the Weldment's angle of 68 degrees. The angle formed by the Spar and Root
Rib is 70 degrees. Inorder to get the Weldment angle to spread from 68 degrees
to 70 degrees, MUCH force is needed. This does not seem right as too much
stress would be applied to the Spar / Root Rib / Weldemnt combination.
Both Left and Right Weldments measure 68 degrees. (I have an OLDER Kit, so maybe
this could be the problem where the NEWER Kit is 70 degrees.)
Has anybody else experienced this and how did you handle it ??
Appreciate your help !!!!
Garey Wittich Santa Monica, CA (310) 392-1682
Garey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Slaughter" <william_slaughter(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Elevator Horn Weldment - Installation |
I adjusted the position of the root rib to match the angle of the weldment.
Will Slaughter
RV-8 Fuselage
Subject: RV8-List: Elevator Horn Weldment - Installation
Greetings:
Ref - RV-8A:
When trying to attach the Elev Horn Weldment to the Elev Spar and Root Rib,
the Weldment did NOT lay flat against the Spar and Root Rib simultaneously.
Measured the Weldment's angle of 68 degrees. The angle formed by the Spar
and Root Rib is 70 degrees. Inorder to get the Weldment angle to spread
from 68 degrees to 70 degrees, MUCH force is needed. This does not seem
right as too much stress would be applied to the Spar / Root Rib / Weldemnt
combination.
Both Left and Right Weldments measure 68 degrees. (I have an OLDER Kit, so
maybe this could be the problem where the NEWER Kit is 70 degrees.)
Has anybody else experienced this and how did you handle it ??
Appreciate your help !!!!
Garey Wittich Santa Monica, CA (310) 392-1682
Garey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edwardoconnor <edwardoconnor(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Steel gear legs |
I have a set of steel gear legs for an RV-8 that I did not use as I
installed Alum gear. I was going to list on E-bay and Van's and
Barnstomer but I could not find the gear listed on Van's part's list
to get a price to put on them. According to my drawings, they are
part # U-801L/R. Does anybody know what Van's sold them for? Mine
are powder coated but the coating chipped off in a few places on the
edges with all the moving I have done.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bart Filipiak <bfilipiak(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Steel gear legs |
I bought a set for $500 a couple of years back. I cannot recall what Van's charges,
but that was fair, IIRC.
July 20, 2008 - March 01, 2009
RV8-Archive.digest.vol-am