RV8-Archive.digest.vol-ao
August 15, 2009 - March 14, 2010
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Spark Plug Gap...? |
What should I set the gap the spark plug for on the IO-390?
What torque value should be used when screwing in the spark plugs?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Gaskets For Constant Speed Props & Misc... |
Is there a gasket to seal the CS prop to the crankshaft? Looks like there is a
taper fitting between the prop and the crankshaft. What are the torque values
for the prop bolts? I have a 72" Hartzell prop I got new from Van's, but I
don't find the installation instructions in my pile of stuff. Anybody have any?
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Difani" <t6pilot(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gaskets For Constant Speed Props & Misc... |
There should be an O ring installed on the inside of the prop shaft. Also,
the torque should be on a decal on the cyliner of the prop. However,
strongly recommend that you obtain the Hartzell Owners/Installation Manual
115 N gives all the requirements for installation, which is on line and
available here:
http://www.hartzellprop.com/product_support/sitelinks_prod_pricelist.htm
Fly Safe.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2009 12:49 AM
Subject: RV8-List: Gaskets For Constant Speed Props & Misc...
>
>
> Is there a gasket to seal the CS prop to the crankshaft? Looks like there
> is a taper fitting between the prop and the crankshaft. What are the
> torque values for the prop bolts? I have a 72" Hartzell prop I got new
> from Van's, but I don't find the installation instructions in my pile of
> stuff. Anybody have any?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
> FWF
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 QB Exhaust Ramp Riveting... |
Hi Matt,
I am a slow builder, so I am not sure I can answer this correctly. In the
slow build, the ramp is riveted on before the side pieces, so it is regular
bucked rivets. From the picture, I cannot tell if the platenuts for the
pedals are installed. Also, several people have talked about vibration of
the exhaust ramp. I ended up stuffing the area tightly with closed cell
foam to reduced that tendency. Others have used expanding foam. Perhaps a
QBuilder can answer this better?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV 8 Canopy
San Ramon
In a message dated 8/15/2009 3:24:55 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
dralle(at)matronics.com writes:
Dear Listers,
I just noticed that the exhaust ramp only has a couple of temporary rivets
installed from the QB process. I can't for the life of me figure out why
they didn't rivet this already?? I hesitate to rivet it if there is
something I'm suppose to do before it gets riveted on...? The aft side isn't
riveted yet either and it looks like the only way this is going to be
rivetable is with pop rivets. Is that true?
Here are a couple of pictures of what I'm talking about.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
Engine and Exhaust Mounted; Now What...?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gaskets For Constant Speed Props & Misc... |
Yeaaa, I found my Hartzell installation manual this morning. Thanks for the tips!
Matt
At 06:15 AM 8/16/2009 Sunday, you wrote:
>
>There should be an O ring installed on the inside of the prop shaft. Also, the
torque should be on a decal on the cyliner of the prop. However, strongly recommend
that you obtain the Hartzell Owners/Installation Manual 115 N gives all
the requirements for installation, which is on line and available here:
>http://www.hartzellprop.com/product_support/sitelinks_prod_pricelist.htm Fly Safe.
>
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
>To: ;
>Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2009 12:49 AM
>Subject: RV8-List: Gaskets For Constant Speed Props & Misc...
>
>
>>
>>
>>Is there a gasket to seal the CS prop to the crankshaft? Looks like there is
a taper fitting between the prop and the crankshaft. What are the torque values
for the prop bolts? I have a 72" Hartzell prop I got new from Van's, but
I don't find the installation instructions in my pile of stuff. Anybody have
any?
>>
>>Thanks!
>>
>>Matt Dralle
>>RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>>http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
>>FWF
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Torque Wrench Extensions |
Well, now that I found my Hartzell installation manual (!), there appears to be
a need for a "special" tool that I don't have. Because the bolts for the prop
require and "end-wrench" of sorts to tighten, it presents somewhat of a problem
when trying to torque them. The manual shows an end-wrench looking thing
that has the 7/16" on one end and a 3/8" drive on the other end. I looked though
the Craftsman and Snapon web sites, but didn't find anything like this. Where
might I buy one?
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Breece Nesbitt <breece28117(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Torque Wrench Extensions |
Avery Tool has that HARTZELL-STYLE PROPELLER WRENCH.- Go to http: //www.a
verytools.com/p-734-hartzell-style-propeller-wrench.aspx=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A____
____________________________=0AFrom: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>=0AT
o: rv8-list(at)matronics.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Sunday, August 16,
2009 2:43:55 PM=0ASubject: RV8-List: Torque Wrench Extensions=0A=0A--> RV8
-List message posted by: Matt Dralle =0A=0A=0AWell, n
ow that I found my Hartzell installation manual (!), there appears to be a
need for a "special" tool that I don't have.- Because the bolts for the p
rop require and "end-wrench" of sorts to tighten, it presents somewhat of a
problem when trying to torque them.- The manual shows an end-wrench look
ing thing that has the 7/16" on one end and a 3/8" drive on the other end.
- I looked though the Craftsman and Snapon web sites, but didn't find any
thing like this.- Where might I buy one?=0A=0AThanks!=0A=0AMatt Dralle=0A
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -Matt Dralle, L
=======
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Torque Wrench Extensions |
| From: | Larry Bowen <larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
http://blog.bowenaero.com/?p=17
It's possible to roll your own using a flex head wrench, above.
--
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
On Sun, Aug 16, 2009 at 3:41 PM, Breece Nesbitt wrote:
> Avery Tool has that HARTZELL-STYLE PROPELLER WRENCH. Go to http:
> //www.averytools.com/p-734-hartzell-style-propeller-wrench.aspx
>
> ________________________________
> From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2009 2:43:55 PM
> Subject: RV8-List: Torque Wrench Extensions
>
>
> Well, now that I found my Hartzell installation manual (!), there appears to
> be a need for a "special" tool that I don't have. Because the bolts for the
> prop require and "end-wrench" of sorts to tighten, it presents somewhat of a
> problem when trying to torque them. The manual shows an end-wrench looking
> thing that has the 7/16" on one end and a 3/8" drive on the other end. I
> looked though the Craftsman and Snapon web sites, but didn't find anything
> like this. Where might I buy one?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
> FWFnbsp; ======================
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | IO-390 Governor Cable Routing... |
Hey, first I wanted to say thanks for the feedback on all my other questions!
So I ran the Governor cable today and it came out pretty nice and seems to work
well. The only thing that seems a little 'if-y' is how I had to route the cable
over the top of the oil sump. Is this SOP or should the cable be isolated
from the sump some how? I guess I could make a standoff bracket to hold it up
off the sump, but do I really need to? The cable is currently resting on the
sump.
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Governor Control Throws... |
Dear Listers,
I've got the control cable going to the Governor working well and the routing under
the engine nicely aligned so that it doesn't touch the sump. I've got a
question regarding the control throw limits, though. Right now at HIGH RPM, the
control on the Governor is hitting the stop as it should. No problem there.
However, on full LOW RPM, I'm about 1/8" away from hitting the stop on the
Governor. I've fiddled around with the available adjustments 'til I'm blue in
the face and I just can't get that last little bit of LOW. Given the angle of
the bracket, its kind of a pull backwards for the pushrod so its just never
really going to work with the current bracket. My question is this: Does it really
matter? When what the last time anyone actually had full LOW RPM setting?
Thoughts?
Thanks,
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Governor Control Throws... |
Matt.
I had exactly the same issue and I went for the high RPM stop and accepted
the 1/8" short of the stop at the low end. So, far it is flying fine.
Stan Sutterfield
Do no archive
I've got the control cable going to the Governor working well and the
routing under
the engine nicely aligned so that it doesn't touch the sump. I've got a
question regarding the control throw limits, though. Right now at HIGH
RPM, the
control on the Governor is hitting the stop as it should. No problem
there.
However, on full LOW RPM, I'm about 1/8" away from hitting the stop on the
Governor. I've fiddled around with the available adjustments 'til I'm
blue in
the face and I just can't get that last little bit of LOW. Given the
angle of
the bracket, its kind of a pull backwards for the pushrod so its just never
really going to work with the current bracket. My question is this: Does
it really
matter? When what the last time anyone actually had full LOW RPM setting?
Thoughts?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Governor Control Throws... |
Great pics, Stan. Thanks.
I noticed that your Allen head screws are drilled for safety wire. Mine aren't.
I wonder if I'm still suppose to safety wire them...?
Matt
At 05:54 PM 8/18/2009 Tuesday, you wrote:
>Photos follow.
>Stan
>
>
><http://www.rv-8a.net/images/PropGov01.JPG>
>PropGov01.JPG (516448 bytes)
>
>
>The forward mounted prop governor requires some engineering to get correct movements.
In the photo above, the aft position (shown) of the governor arm is the
high rpm (flat pitch) setting. However, a control cable connected directly
to it would cause the prop pitch to work opposite to normal operation. So the
cable to the governor must come from below and the actuator arm must be rotated
counterclockwise to align with the cable. That will force us to bring the
control cable through the lower ramp of the baffles.
>
>
>
><http://www.rv-8a.net/images/PropGov02.JPG>
>PropGov02.JPG (511702 bytes)
>
>
><http://www.rv-8a.net/images/PropGov03.JPG>
>PropGov03.JPG (511769 bytes)
>
>
>The cable bracket that Nelson made appears to be correct. I'll attach to the
inboard side of the lever arm and I'm thinking about making a fairing to fit around
the governor. I'll have to devise a slit rubber pass through for the cable
to go through the intake cooling air ramps. I saw one on a RV-10 at SnF that
should work
>
>
>
>The prop control does not have enough authority to get full travel on the prop
governor. The only way to get additional throw before hitting the throttle quadrant
stops was to redrill the clevis attachment hole in the prop lever for
the prop cable. Nelson marked it and we drilled a new hole that gives greater
governor movement for the same amount of lever movement. It was as high as we
could move the hole and it still wasn't enough, so on the phone to MT Propellors
of Deland, FL to ask if they had encountered the problem before. I've heard
of other builders having the same problem, but the guy I talked to at MT (Urgen)
had not heard of it. He said we must have full authority to the high RPM
end and we can accept not quite reaching the stop on the low RPM side. We
now reach the high stop and are about 1/8" off the low stop. Torqued and safety
wired the governor.
>
><http://www.rv-8a.net/images/PropGov06.JPG>
>PropGov06.JPG (511870 bytes)
> <http://www.rv-8a.net/images/PropGov05.JPG>
>PropGov05.JPG (527855 bytes)
>
>I've got the control cable going to the Governor working well and the routing
under
>the engine nicely aligned so that it doesn't touch the sump. I've got a
>question regarding the control throw limits, though. Right now at HIGH RPM, the
>control on the Governor is hitting the stop as it should. No problem there.
>However, on full LOW RPM, I'm about 1/8" away from hitting the stop on the
>Governor. I've fiddled around with the available adjustments 'til I'm blue in
>the face and I just can't get that last little bit of LOW. Given the angle of
>the bracket, its kind of a pull backwards for the pushrod so its just never
>really going to work with the current bracket. My question is this: Does it really
>matter? When what the last time anyone actually had full LOW RPM setting?
>
>
>
>----------
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List McCalley Governor Screws... |
I pulled one of the screws out to have a closer look, and it appears that on the
McCalley governor they've used a dab of Green locktite on the shaft of the screw.
There's defiantly no safety wire holes in the screws. Does Green Locktite
seem sufficient?
Matt
At 07:35 AM 8/19/2009 Wednesday, Speedy11(at)aol.com wrote:
>Yes, they need to be safety wired. Contact the manufacturer and check to see
if the screw heads should have been drilled.
>Stan
>I noticed that your Allen head screws are drilled for safety wire. Mine aren't.
>I wonder if I'm still suppose to safety wire them...?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Oil Cooler Size On RV-10...? |
Hey, what size oil cooler to the RV-10's use? Is it the same on on the -7's and
-8's? "Oil Cooler II". Or, do they use a larger one?
I've got a SW10610R for my IO-390 on the RV-8 which is a monster sized cooler.
The stock "FF-709" mounting bracket is way too small. Does Van's have a larger
one available? What's used on the RV-10?
I guess that I could make one, but I'd rather Van's CNC punch did, if you know
what I mean...?
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Washington State Use Tax question |
| From: | "kereniya" <kereniyathubu(at)yahoo.in> |
What is an occupational tax with regards to property taxes, besides school taxes,
and property taxes? What is this occupational tax, I am not working why do
I have to pay it?
--------
i need help
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=258785#258785
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Size On RV-10...? |
Matt,
I used the SW 10631S oil cooler, remotely mounted it, and it is holding
the oil temp on my IO-390 at 180-183 (the ideal range according to Lyc).
Photos enclosed.
Stan Sutterfield
Do no archive
Hey, what size oil cooler to the RV-10's use? Is it the same on on the
-7's and
-8's? "Oil Cooler II". Or, do they use a larger one?
I've got a SW10610R for my IO-390 on the RV-8 which is a monster sized
cooler.
The stock "FF-709" mounting bracket is way too small. Does Van's have a
larger
one available? What's used on the RV-10?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: McCalley Governor Screws... |
Matt,
I would guess that if the manufacturer used it, then it is suitable.
Contact McCauley at 316-517-5800 or _customercare(at)mccauley.textron.com_
(mailto:customercare(at)mccauley.textron.com) .
Stan Sutterfield
Do no archive
I pulled one of the screws out to have a closer look, and it appears that
on the
McCalley governor they've used a dab of Green locktite on the shaft of the
screw.
There's defiantly no safety wire holes in the screws. Does Green Locktite
seem sufficient?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Governor Control Throws... |
Matt,
>From my experience RV8 1900 hrs, you will never need to use the low, low
setting.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 1:37 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Governor Control Throws...
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> I've got the control cable going to the Governor working well and the
> routing under the engine nicely aligned so that it doesn't touch the sump.
> I've got a question regarding the control throw limits, though. Right now
> at HIGH RPM, the control on the Governor is hitting the stop as it should.
> No problem there. However, on full LOW RPM, I'm about 1/8" away from
> hitting the stop on the Governor. I've fiddled around with the available
> adjustments 'til I'm blue in the face and I just can't get that last
> little bit of LOW. Given the angle of the bracket, its kind of a pull
> backwards for the pushrod so its just never really going to work with the
> current bracket. My question is this: Does it really matter? When what
> the last time anyone actually had full LOW RPM setting?
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | christopher johnston <cj(at)popstudios.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Size On RV-10...? |
Hey Matt -
the oil cooler on the 10 mounts on the firewall - There's a specific
mount that comes with the firewall forward kit. Not sure which exact
oil cooler it is, but I'm pretty sure that the 8 can't use the mount.
There's a picture of it here on my site:
http://perfectlygoodairplane.net/Perfectlygoodairplane/Heat_Controls_%26_Engine_Mount.html#2
cj
On Aug 19, 2009, at 8:08 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>
> Hey, what size oil cooler to the RV-10's use? Is it the same on on
> the -7's and -8's? "Oil Cooler II". Or, do they use a larger one?
>
> I've got a SW10610R for my IO-390 on the RV-8 which is a monster
> sized cooler. The stock "FF-709" mounting bracket is way too
> small. Does Van's have a larger one available? What's used on the
> RV-10?
>
> I guess that I could make one, but I'd rather Van's CNC punch did,
> if you know what I mean...?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
> FWF
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | christopher johnston <cj(at)popstudios.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Size On RV-10...? |
Here's a better picture from William Curtis's site:
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/08Fuselage/fuselage27x.html
cj
On Aug 19, 2009, at 8:08 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>
> Hey, what size oil cooler to the RV-10's use? Is it the same on on
> the -7's and -8's? "Oil Cooler II". Or, do they use a larger one?
>
> I've got a SW10610R for my IO-390 on the RV-8 which is a monster
> sized cooler. The stock "FF-709" mounting bracket is way too
> small. Does Van's have a larger one available? What's used on the
> RV-10?
>
> I guess that I could make one, but I'd rather Van's CNC punch did,
> if you know what I mean...?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
> FWF
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Oil Cooler Size On RV-10...? |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Matt,
I upgraded my -10 oil cooler to the extra large AFP 2008 which
left me with the RV-10 oil cooler I plan to use on my 8A. You do not
want the RV-10 oil cooler mount for your 8 project. It is one of the
worst designed components on the -10. The "wedge" as it is known does
not allow for airflow over the entire surface of the cooler fins
creating dead spots and much less efficient cooling system. I believe
AFP now sells diverter fins for the wedge but you are better off
creating a direct ram impact mount or the like to properly take
advantage of the oil cooler.
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of christopher
johnston
Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 1:29 PM
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Oil Cooler Size On RV-10...?
Hey Matt -
the oil cooler on the 10 mounts on the firewall - There's a specific
mount that comes with the firewall forward kit. Not sure which exact
oil cooler it is, but I'm pretty sure that the 8 can't use the mount.
There's a picture of it here on my site:
http://perfectlygoodairplane.net/Perfectlygoodairplane/Heat_Controls_%26
_Engine_Mount.html#2
cj
On Aug 19, 2009, at 8:08 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>
> Hey, what size oil cooler to the RV-10's use? Is it the same on on
> the -7's and -8's? "Oil Cooler II". Or, do they use a larger one?
>
> I've got a SW10610R for my IO-390 on the RV-8 which is a monster
> sized cooler. The stock "FF-709" mounting bracket is way too
> small. Does Van's have a larger one available? What's used on the
> RV-10?
>
> I guess that I could make one, but I'd rather Van's CNC punch did,
> if you know what I mean...?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
> FWF
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | MGL Odyssey Install in RV-8 |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Dear Fellow RV-8 Builders, several readers have indicated they have installed and
fly behind the Odyssey. Whom among this fine group took photos of the installation
and would be willing to share how they did it. I do not want to reinvent
the wheel or become an "expert" EFIS installer. I just want to fly. Hope to
hear from those experienced builders. Best regards, Bill of Georgia
-----Original Message-----
From: RV8-List Digest Server <rv8-list(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Fri, Aug 21, 2009 2:58 am
Subject: RV8-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 08/20/09
*
=================================================
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
=================================================
Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the
two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 09-08-20&Archive=RV8
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 09-08-20&Archive=RV8
===============================================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
===============================================
----------------------------------------------------------
RV8-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Thu 08/20/09: 7
----------------------------------------------------------
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:24 AM - Re: Washington State Use Tax question (kereniya)
2. 06:55 AM - Re: Oil Cooler Size On RV-10...? (Speedy11(at)aol.com)
3. 07:13 AM - Re: McCalley Governor Screws... (Speedy11(at)aol.com)
4. 07:42 AM - Re: Governor Control Throws... (Richard Martin)
5. 01:31 PM - Re: Oil Cooler Size On RV-10...? (christopher johnston)
6. 01:37 PM - Re: Oil Cooler Size On RV-10...? (christopher johnston)
7. 01:49 PM - Re: Oil Cooler Size On RV-10...? (Robin Marks)
________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________
Subject: RV8-List: Re: Washington State Use Tax question
From: "kereniya" <kereniyathubu(at)yahoo.in>
What is an occupational tax with regar
ds to property taxes, besides school
taxes,
and property taxes? What is this occupational tax, I am not working why do
I have to pay it?
--------
i need help
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=258785#258785
________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________
From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
Subject: RV8-List: Re: Oil Cooler Size On RV-10...?
Matt,
I used the SW 10631S oil cooler, remotely mounted it, and it is holding
the oil temp on my IO-390 at 180-183 (the ideal range according to Lyc).
Photos enclosed.
Stan Sutterfield
Do no archive
Hey, what size oil cooler to the RV-10's use? Is it the same on on the
-7's and
-8's? "Oil Cooler II". Or, do they use a larger one?
I've got a SW10610R for my IO-390 on the RV-8 which is a monster sized
cooler.
The stock "FF-709" mounting bracket is way too small. Does Van's have a
larger
one available? What's used on the RV-10?
________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________
From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
Subject: RV8-List: Re: McCalley Governor Screws...
Matt,
I would guess that if the manufacturer used it, then it is suitable.
Contact McCauley at 316-517-5800 or _customercare(at)mccauley.textron.com_
(mailto:customercare(at)mccauley.textron.com) .
Stan Sutterfield
Do no archive
I pulled one of the screws out to have a closer look, and it appears that
on the
McCalley governor they've used a dab of Green locktite on the shaft of the
screw.
There's defiantly no safety wire holes in the screws. Does Green Locktite
seem sufficient?
________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________
From: "Richard Martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Governor Control Throws...
Matt,
>From my experience RV8 1900 hrs, you will never need to use the low, low
setting.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt
Dralle"
Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 1:37 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Governor Control Throws...
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> I've got the control cable going to the Governor working well and the
> routing under the engine nicely aligned so that it doesn't touch the sump.
> I've got a question regarding the control throw limits, though. Right now
> at HIGH RPM, the control on the Governor is hitting the stop as it should.
> No problem there. However, on full LOW RPM, I'm about 1/8" away from
> hitting the stop on the Governor. I've fiddled around with the available
> adjustments 'til I'm blue in the face and I just can't get that last
> little bit of LOW. Given the angle of the bracket, its kind of a pull
> backwards for the pushrod so its just never really going to work with the
> current bracket. My question is this: Does it really matter? When what
> the last time anyone actually had full LOW RPM setting?
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
>
________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________
From: christopher johnston <cj(at)popstudios.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Oil Cooler Size On RV-10...?
Hey Matt -
the oil cooler on the 10 mounts on the firewall - There's a specific
mount that comes with the firewall forward kit. Not sure which exact
oil cooler it is, but I'm pretty sure that the 8 can't use the mount.
There's a picture of it here on my site:
http://perfectlygoodairplane.net/Perfectlygoodairplane/Heat_Controls_%26_Engine_Mount.html#2
cj
On Aug 19, 2009, at 8:08 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>
> Hey, what size oil cooler to the RV-10's use? Is it the same on on
> the -7's and -8's? "Oil Cooler II". Or, do they use a larger one?
>
> I've got a SW10610R for my IO-390 on the RV-8 which is a monster
> sized cooler. The stock "FF-709" mounting bracket is way too
> small. Does Van's have a larger one available? What's used on the
> RV-10?
>
> I guess that I could make one, but I'd rather Van's CNC punch did,
> if you know what I mean...?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
> FWF
>
>
________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________
From: christopher johnston <cj(at)popstudios.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Oil Cooler Size On RV-10...?
Here's a better picture from William Curtis's site:
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/08Fuselage/fuselage27x.html
cj
On Aug 19, 2009, at 8:08 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>
> Hey, what size oil cooler to the RV-10's use? Is it the same on on
> the -7's and -8's? "Oil Cooler II". Or, do they use a larger one?
>
> I've got a SW10610R for my IO-390 on the RV-8 which is a monster
> sized cooler. The stock "FF-709" mounting bracket is way too
> small. Does Van's have a larger one available? What's used on the
> RV-10?
>
> I guess that I could make one, but I'd rather Van's CNC punch did,
> if you know what I mean...?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
> FWF
>
>
________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Oil Cooler Size On RV-10...?
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
Matt,
I upgraded my -10 oil cooler to the extra large AFP 2008 which
left me with the RV-10 oil cooler I plan to use on my 8A. You do not
want the RV-10 oil cooler mount for your 8 project. It is one of the
worst designed components on the -10. The "wedge" as it is known does
not allow for airflow over the entire surface of the cooler fins
creating dead spots and much less efficient cooling system. I believe
AFP now sells diverter fins for the wedge but you are better off
creating a direct ram impact mount or the like to properly take
advantage of the oil cooler.
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf O
f christopher
johnston
Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 1:29 PM
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Oil Cooler Size On RV-10...?
Hey Matt -
the oil cooler on the 10 mounts on the firewall - There's a specific
mount that comes with the firewall forward kit. Not sure which exact
oil cooler it is, but I'm pretty sure that the 8 can't use the mount.
There's a picture of it here on my site:
http://perfectlygoodairplane.net/Perfectlygoodairplane/Heat_Controls_%26
_Engine_Mount.html#2
cj
On Aug 19, 2009, at 8:08 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>
> Hey, what size oil cooler to the RV-10's use? Is it the same on on
> the -7's and -8's? "Oil Cooler II". Or, do they use a larger one?
>
> I've got a SW10610R for my IO-390 on the RV-8 which is a monster
> sized cooler. The stock "FF-709" mounting bracket is way too
> small. Does Van's have a larger one available? What's used on the
> RV-10?
>
> I guess that I could make one, but I'd rather Van's CNC punch did,
> if you know what I mean...?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
> FWF
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Vetterman 4-into-4 RV-8/IO-390 Exhaust... |
Dear Listers,
I got the Vetterman 4-into-4 RV-8/IO-390 exhaust system installed last weekend. It fit perfectly, and looks awesome too! I've attached a few pictures on the installation. (Digest Listers: Check the Forums interface for the pictures at http://forums.matronics.com/viewforum.php?f=4 )
Here's my question. How close should the pipes actually be to the bottom of the
exhaust ramp? The mounting system will allow me to push them up pretty close,
but is that wise? The installation instructions didn't really lend any guidance
here.
BTW, the IO-390 engine went on without a problem. Here's some pictures:
(7 Log Entries)
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=2972&log=86633&row=29
And here's some real-time shots from the MattCams:
(9 Log Entries)
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=2972&log=86655&row=22
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tailgummer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Vetterman 4-into-4 RV-8/IO-390 Exhaust... |
The closer the exhaust pipes are to the exit ramp the more the exhaust
pulses will affect the floor. This increases the risk of cracking the skin and
failing the rivets in the area. Some builders use the "turned down"
extensions to mitigate this. Not sure if the benefits have other effects, though.
John D RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8- WTB Transponder |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Hello Fellow RV Obsessed Folks, I need a Garmin 327 or 330 Transponder with tray.
Please write or call my cell, 478-731-9678, Thanks, Bill of Georgia
-----Original Message-----
From: RV8-List Digest Server <rv8-list(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Tue, Aug 25, 2009 2:58 am
Subject: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 08/24/09
*
=================================================
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
=================================================
Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the
two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 09-08-24&Archive=RV8
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 09-08-24&Archive=RV8
===============================================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
===============================================
----------------------------------------------------------
RV8-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Mon 08/24/09: 0
----------------------------------------------------------
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Install MGL Odyssey |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Dear RV-8/a Builder Fellows, I need some first hand installer info on the Odyssey
EFIS from MGL into the RV-8. Got photos of where all the pieces are best located?
Need some help here. Best regards, Bill of Georgia??
-----Original Message-----
From: RV8-List Digest Server <rv8-list(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Tue, Aug 25, 2009 2:58 am
Subject: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 08/24/09
*
=================================================
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
=================================================
Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the
two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 09-08-24&Archive=RV8
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 09-08-24&Archive=RV8
===============================================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
===============================================
----------------------------------------------------------
RV8-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Mon 08/24/09: 0
----------------------------------------------------------
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8- Trio AP Install |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Dear Fellow RV-8 Builders Fellows, I've received my Trio Gold AP servos for my
RV-8a.? Beautiful things they are.? Who has installed them in their RV-8? The
wing aileron unit is pretty straight forward so no problem. On the other hand
the elevator servo placement is less defined. Anybody got photos and thickness
of brackets, location, length of push rod,etc? Hope to hear from someone and
best regards, Bill of Georgia?
-----Original Message-----
From: RV8-List Digest Server <rv8-list(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Tue, Aug 25, 2009 2:58 am
Subject: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 08/24/09
*
=================================================
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
=================================================
Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the
two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 09-08-24&Archive=RV8
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 09-08-24&Archive=RV8
===============================================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
===============================================
----------------------------------------------------------
RV8-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Mon 08/24/09: 0
----------------------------------------------------------
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Size On RV-10...? |
When I built my RV8, I attempted to use the SW cooler recommended by vans,
however it was inadequate. Upon advice of Monty Barrette, and Dave Anders
(still the fastest RV) I obtained a Niagara/Harrison 10 cooler and mounted
it on the rear baffle behind cyl 4 and tilted it down approximately 35
degrees (tilt as much as possible without contacting engine mount) (it will
be necessary to remove some metal from the flange on the cooler to prevent
contact with engine mount tube). This set up has proven to be excellent
providing good cooling in all temperatures up to 95 degrees outside air
including the Air Venture races when I run at 100 percent of power at low
altitude for over 2 hours (2700 rpm, 27-29 inch manifold pressure) average
indicated airspeeds are 220-235mph depending on OAT.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 19, 2009 10:08 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Oil Cooler Size On RV-10...?
>
>
> Hey, what size oil cooler to the RV-10's use? Is it the same on on
> the -7's and -8's? "Oil Cooler II". Or, do they use a larger one?
>
> I've got a SW10610R for my IO-390 on the RV-8 which is a monster sized
> cooler. The stock "FF-709" mounting bracket is way too small. Does Van's
> have a larger one available? What's used on the RV-10?
>
> I guess that I could make one, but I'd rather Van's CNC punch did, if you
> know what I mean...?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
> FWF
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Size On RV-10...? |
Thanks for the feedback Richard. Do you have some pictures of your installation
you could post to the Lists?
BTW, your computer clock is 5 days behind.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
<http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle>http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
FWF
At 08:33 AM 8/20/2009 Thursday, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Martin"
>
>When I built my RV8, I attempted to use the SW cooler recommended by vans, however
it was inadequate. Upon advice of Monty Barrette, and Dave Anders (still
the fastest RV) I obtained a Niagara/Harrison 10 cooler and mounted it on the
rear baffle behind cyl 4 and tilted it down approximately 35 degrees (tilt as
much as possible without contacting engine mount) (it will be necessary to remove
some metal from the flange on the cooler to prevent contact with engine
mount tube). This set up has proven to be excellent providing good cooling in
all temperatures up to 95 degrees outside air including the Air Venture races
when I run at 100 percent of power at low altitude for over 2 hours (2700 rpm,
27-29 inch manifold pressure) average indicated airspeeds are 220-235mph depending
on OAT.
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
>To: ; ;
>Sent: Wednesday, August 19, 2009 10:08 PM
>Subject: RV8-List: Oil Cooler Size On RV-10...?
>
>
>>
>>
>>Hey, what size oil cooler to the RV-10's use? Is it the same on on the -7's
and -8's? "Oil Cooler II". Or, do they use a larger one?
>>
>>I've got a SW10610R for my IO-390 on the RV-8 which is a monster sized cooler.
The stock "FF-709" mounting bracket is way too small. Does Van's have a larger
one available? What's used on the RV-10?
>>
>>I guess that I could make one, but I'd rather Van's CNC punch did, if you know
what I mean...?
>>
>>Thanks!
>>
>>Matt Dralle
>>RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>>http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
>>FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Hartzell Prop Goes On Today! |
Listers!
It seemed like a rather momentous occasion today since the Hartzell CS prop got
mounted to the front of the 'ol RV-8 project!! Yahoo! I really like the looks
of the non-blended airfoil blades. They just have a more traditional, mean
and manly look, IMHO. The 72" dia also has those fatter paddles which looks
cool too.
Just two weeks from initial engine mounting to prop installation. The FWF controls
and wiring are done too. All of the CHT/EGT/PSI probes even worked the first
time!
Anyway, just thought I'd share. Cowling goes on next, then the baffling... Wish
me luck. ;-)
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
Cowling and Baffling...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rveighta(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop Goes On Today! |
Matt, what a beautiful lookin' 8!=C2- Makes me wish I hadn't sold my 8 la
st fall. I had the same prop on mine. If you think
it looks good, just wait until you taxi out the first time!=C2- I still r
emember taking mine out the first time on a warm, summer
evening, with the canopy slightly ajar and those big paddle blades playing
a symphony for me. Heavenly....
Walt Shipley
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
rv9-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, August 29, 2009 8:29:48 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: RV8-List: Hartzell Prop Goes On Today!
Listers!
It seemed like a rather momentous occasion today since the Hartzell CS prop
got mounted to the front of the 'ol RV-8 project!! =C2-Yahoo! =C2-I re
ally like the looks of the non-blended airfoil blades. =C2-They just have
a more traditional, mean and manly look, IMHO. =C2-The 72" dia also has
those fatter paddles which looks cool too.
Just two weeks from initial engine mounting to prop installation. =C2-The
FWF controls and wiring are done too. =C2-All of the CHT/EGT/PSI probes
even worked the first time!
Anyway, just thought I'd share. =C2-Cowling goes on next, then the baffli
ng... =C2-Wish me luck. =C2-;-)
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
Cowling and Baffling...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Fitting The Spinner To A Hartzell |
Listers,
Hartzell recommends a minimum .1" clearance around the prop blade for the spinner.
I did that exactly, but the prop would still bang on the spinner at full
pitch. I had to hog out to .25" to keep the clearance at .1" at full pitch.
It looked stupid having such a large gap in one area only so I evened it up to
.25" all the way around. But now it kind of looks like I made the holes too
big. I just can't recall seeing other installations to know if my .25" is "too
much". Anyone have any pics or thoughts on the clearance using late-model Van's
CS spinner and a Hartzell, particularly the 72" paddle blades I've got?
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop Goes On Today! |
That is an important consideration. To mount the cowlings, though, you have to
have the spinner on. With a CS prop, the spinner mounts directly to the prop
and not the crankshaft so you have to mount the prop to the engine to get the
spinner in the right place.
Now I've just got all that much more incentive to get it in the air!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
Cowling and Baffling...
At 06:29 PM 8/29/2009 Saturday, you wrote:
>
>One thing to consider. With the prop on, you are likely to rotate the engine,
even very small displacements defeats some of the preservation. Not a huge deal,
depending upon conditions, but I held off as long as possible before mounting
mine.
>
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
>To: ; ; ;
>Sent: Saturday, August 29, 2009 5:29 PM
>Subject: RV8-List: Hartzell Prop Goes On Today!
>
>
>>Listers!
>>
>>It seemed like a rather momentous occasion today since the Hartzell CS prop got
mounted to the front of the 'ol RV-8 project!! Yahoo! I really like the looks
of the non-blended airfoil blades. They just have a more traditional, mean
and manly look, IMHO. The 72" dia also has those fatter paddles which looks
cool too.
>>
>>Just two weeks from initial engine mounting to prop installation. The FWF controls
and wiring are done too. All of the CHT/EGT/PSI probes even worked the
first time!
>>
>>Anyway, just thought I'd share. Cowling goes on next, then the baffling...
Wish me luck. ;-)
>>
>>Matt Dralle
>>RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>>http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
>>Cowling and Baffling...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Timothy E. Cone" <tcone1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Prop Goes On Today! |
Matt,
I've seen others who made a backing plate mockup out of pvc and plywood. I
didn't go to that extreme, I just was very careful while massaging the cowl,
and then immediately removed the prop when the cowl fitting was complete
because visitors to the shop, for some reason just can't resist the
temptation to wiggle the prop.
Tim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 30, 2009 9:32 AM
Subject: RV8-List: Re: Hartzell Prop Goes On Today!
>
> That is an important consideration. To mount the cowlings, though, you
> have to have the spinner on. With a CS prop, the spinner mounts directly
> to the prop and not the crankshaft so you have to mount the prop to the
> engine to get the spinner in the right place.
>
> Now I've just got all that much more incentive to get it in the air!
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
> Cowling and Baffling...
>
>
> At 06:29 PM 8/29/2009 Saturday, you wrote:
>>
>>One thing to consider. With the prop on, you are likely to rotate the
>>engine, even very small displacements defeats some of the preservation.
>>Not a huge deal, depending upon conditions, but I held off as long as
>>possible before mounting mine.
>>
>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
>>To: ; ;
>>;
>>Sent: Saturday, August 29, 2009 5:29 PM
>>Subject: RV8-List: Hartzell Prop Goes On Today!
>>
>>
>>>Listers!
>>>
>>>It seemed like a rather momentous occasion today since the Hartzell CS
>>>prop got mounted to the front of the 'ol RV-8 project!! Yahoo! I really
>>>like the looks of the non-blended airfoil blades. They just have a more
>>>traditional, mean and manly look, IMHO. The 72" dia also has those
>>>fatter paddles which looks cool too.
>>>
>>>Just two weeks from initial engine mounting to prop installation. The
>>>FWF controls and wiring are done too. All of the CHT/EGT/PSI probes even
>>>worked the first time!
>>>
>>>Anyway, just thought I'd share. Cowling goes on next, then the
>>>baffling... Wish me luck. ;-)
>>>
>>>Matt Dralle
>>>RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>>>http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
>>>Cowling and Baffling...
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve <steve282s(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Fitting The Spinner To A Hartzell |
Hi Matt,
1/4"- ain't bad.- Go fly.- It's all good.
--- On Sun, 8/30/09, Matt Dralle wrote:
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fitting The Spinner To A Hartzell
Date: Sunday, August 30, 2009, 11:35 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle
Listers,
Hartzell recommends a minimum .1" clearance around the prop blade for the s
pinner.- I did that exactly, but the prop would still bang on the spinner
at full pitch.- I had to hog out to .25" to keep the clearance at .1" at
full pitch.- It looked stupid having such a large gap in one area only s
o I evened it up to .25" all the way around.- But now it kind of looks li
ke I made the holes too big.- I just can't recall seeing other installati
ons to know if my .25" is "too much".- Anyone have any pics or thoughts o
n the clearance using late-model Van's CS spinner and a Hartzell, particula
rly the 72" paddle blades I've got?
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Loer" <stazel(at)cpros.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator Trim Motor Wiring Routing |
Should have addressed this sooner. The leading edge is rolled and
riveted, and I now realize that the existing hole through the spar won't
work. I think this has been a past subject on the list, but didn't pay
attention at the time. Difficult, but probably not impossible to drill
a new routing hole inboard. Would have to open up the leading edge for
access. Plan B might be to drill a hole through the butt rib concentric
with the forward lightening hole in the horn bracket. Recommendations
greatly appreciated.
Stan Loer
stazel(at)cpros.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Loer" <stazel(at)cpros.com> |
| Subject: | Finishing Empennage Tips |
While I've decided to rivet the stabilizer and elevator tips per plans,
I'm still debating other finishing issues. I've seen tip sections
totally glassed in, filling in the inboard end of the elevator tip and
adjacent end of the stabilizer, and basically making all joints
disappear from the rivet line out. Looks great, but I'm not sure what I
would be in for if I decided to go that way. Would like some feedback
from other builders. Pros/cons and, from those who have gone there, a
bit on preferred materials and processes and maybe some photos. Not
asking for much. I've picked up a lot of good ideas from list comments
and direct contact. Guess I still have a long way to go.
Stan Loer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Part # F-601Y |
Dear Listers,
On Drawing 60 of the RV-8 plans, there is a part called out numbered "F-601Y" which
appears to be an angle of some sort about 2" long. It seems to be used to
hold the hinge pins for the rear, upper cowling. Other than a reference to
it on Drawing 60 where its simply shown as a dotted drawing for positional reference,
I can't seem to find where it is shown in 3D for fabrication nor can I
find it among my pre-punched bits and pieces.
Am I just not seeing the 3D drawing for some reason??
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
Cowling's Almost Done!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Initial Baffle-To-Top-Cowling Fit... |
Dear Listers,
The RV-8's cowling done and fits like a glove. I started the baffling last night
and its coming along nicely. The fit on the sides and back are very good considering
the IO-390 installation (and the use of the IO-360 baffle kit). The
front baffling is completely different, however, and I'm slogging through the
custom fitting.
But here's my question. I decided to put the top cowling on top of the baffling
that I've got installed so far and I was shocked that the baffling appears to
be a good 1 to 1.5" too tall!! Is this because of the IO-390 or is that just
where Van's expects you to start in your "cutting-it-down-to-size" phase? That's
a lot of snipping and fitting and snipping and fitting. I was expecting
to have to trim some, but not over a inch...
Also, it looks like the over-sized oil cooler is going to fit nicely on the rear
baffle with only a little "modification". But I'm not sure if the back, upper
corner is going to clear the cowling. Since the cowling is sitting over a
inch high right now, I've got no way to really trial fit the oil cooler and check
for cowling clearance until I trim the baffling down. Worst-case I could
put a blister on the cowling for the rear, upper flange of the oil cooler, I suppose,
but that's kind of hokey. There is room to move the oil cooler in towards
the centerline about 1", but then the mount will no longer line up with the
flange on the outboard edge and will require more modifications.
Thoughts...?
Attached are some pics. ( Digest viewers check http://forums.matronics.com ).
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
Baffling and Oil Cooler...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Initial Baffle-To-Top-Cowling Fit... |
Yep, cut away... On my RV-4 and RV-10 you cut quite a bit of the
baffling away. In fact on the -10. There is only like 3/8" of
baffling left above the #1 and #2 cylinders when complete. Make sure
you have the air inlet scoops installed in the upper cowl too, or
there will be more cutting later.
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 14, 2009, at 10:00 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> The RV-8's cowling done and fits like a glove. I started the
> baffling last night and its coming along nicely. The fit on the
> sides and back are very good considering the IO-390 installation
> (and the use of the IO-360 baffle kit). The front baffling is
> completely different, however, and I'm slogging through the custom
> fitting.
>
> But here's my question. I decided to put the top cowling on top of
> the baffling that I've got installed so far and I was shocked that
> the baffling appears to be a good 1 to 1.5" too tall!! Is this
> because of the IO-390 or is that just where Van's expects you to
> start in your "cutting-it-down-to-size" phase? That's a lot of
> snipping and fitting and snipping and fitting. I was expecting to
> have to trim some, but not over a inch...
>
> Also, it looks like the over-sized oil cooler is going to fit nicely
> on the rear baffle with only a little "modification". But I'm not
> sure if the back, upper corner is going to clear the cowling. Since
> the cowling is sitting over a inch high right now, I've got no way
> to really trial fit the oil cooler and check for cowling clearance
> until I trim the baffling down. Worst-case I could put a blister on
> the cowling for the rear, upper flange of the oil cooler, I suppose,
> but that's kind of hokey. There is room to move the oil cooler in
> towards the centerline about 1", but then the mount will no longer
> line up with the flange on the outboard edge and will require more
> modifications.
>
> Thoughts...?
>
> Attached are some pics. ( Digest viewers check http://forums.matronics.com
> ).
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
> Baffling and Oil Cooler...
> <20090914-2821.jpg>
> <20090914-2822.jpg>
> <20090914-2819.jpg>
> <20090914-2820.jpg>
> <20090913-2816.jpg>
> <20090913-2817.jpg>
> <20090913-2818.jpg>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Initial Baffle-To-Top-Cowling Fit... |
I just wanted to thank everyone for the great feedback on this baffling cut-down
procedure. I'm glad to hear that it wasn't just my installation!! :-)
I'll post some more pictures when I get things hacked down to size and that oil
cooler mounted.
Hey, check out my newly registered URL for my RV-8 Building site:
http://www.mattsrv8.com
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com
Baffling and Oil Cooler...
At 07:00 PM 9/14/2009 Monday, you wrote:
>Dear Listers,
>
>The RV-8's cowling done and fits like a glove. I started the baffling last night
and its coming along nicely. The fit on the sides and back are very good
considering the IO-390 installation (and the use of the IO-360 baffle kit). The
front baffling is completely different, however, and I'm slogging through the
custom fitting.
>
>But here's my question. I decided to put the top cowling on top of the baffling
that I've got installed so far and I was shocked that the baffling appears
to be a good 1 to 1.5" too tall!! Is this because of the IO-390 or is that just
where Van's expects you to start in your "cutting-it-down-to-size" phase?
That's a lot of snipping and fitting and snipping and fitting. I was expecting
to have to trim some, but not over a inch...
>
>Also, it looks like the over-sized oil cooler is going to fit nicely on the rear
baffle with only a little "modification". But I'm not sure if the back, upper
corner is going to clear the cowling. Since the cowling is sitting over a
inch high right now, I've got no way to really trial fit the oil cooler and check
for cowling clearance until I trim the baffling down. Worst-case I could
put a blister on the cowling for the rear, upper flange of the oil cooler, I
suppose, but that's kind of hokey. There is room to move the oil cooler in towards
the centerline about 1", but then the mount will no longer line up with
the flange on the outboard edge and will require more modifications.
>
>Thoughts...?
>
>Attached are some pics. ( Digest viewers check http://forums.matronics.com ).
>
>Matt Dralle
>RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>http://www.mattsrv8.com
>Baffling and Oil Cooler...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Woodward vs McCauley Governor Height |
Does anybody know if the Woodward governor is shorter than the McCauley governor?
I've got a McCauley on my IO-390 and was doing the left front floor baffle
last night and with the cutout for the governor, there isn't enough room for
the big, square fiberglass intake hole between the governor and the left sidewall.
Its something like 1/4" to 1/2" too narrow and that *doesn't* take into
account any mounting flange space. I'm wondering if the Woodward governor is
shorter by a 1/2" or so which will make this all work. Basically, I don't see
how I'm going to get the McCauley to work at this point.
Anybody have any height specs on the Woodward governor? Basically from the boss
mount to the top of the arm would be helpful.
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | IO-360 Snorkel Induction Installation Plans... |
Dear Listers,
I must just be totally missing it, but I've gone through all of my prints twice
now and I cannot find anywhere where the installation of the Induction Snorkel
for the horizontal intake is described or even shown. I'm guessing its got
to be an "OP" drawing of some sort. I would also assume that there would be some
written instructions, but I'm not finding these either.
I'm just not sure what I'm looking for at this point. Can somebody help a brother
out...
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
Engine Baffling...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 Snorkel Induction Installation Plans... |
At 07:55 PM 9/18/2009 Friday, Matt Dralle wrote:
>Dear Listers,
>
>I must just be totally missing it, but I've gone through all of my prints twice
now and I cannot find anywhere where the installation of the Induction Snorkel
for the horizontal intake is described or even shown. I'm guessing its got
to be an "OP" drawing of some sort. I would also assume that there would be
some written instructions, but I'm not finding these either.
>
>I'm just not sure what I'm looking for at this point. Can somebody help a brother
out...
>
>Matt Dralle
>RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
>Engine Baffling...
Ah, can I get a "what, what!?"... All of the goodies were tucked inside of the
K&N filter box that comes with the FAB-HORIZ INDUCTION-1 kit including the plans,
instructions, and all the bits and pieces! Those Van's shipping people must
be squirrels... $205 for a replacement snorkel I just noticed in the Van's
catalog; guess I'd better do this right the first time...
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
There's a REASON they call it "engine BAFFLING"...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | CB-1002-H Governor Bracket Installation Photos...? |
Dear Listers,
Van's turned me on to a bracket for the RV-10 called the CB-1002-H which is a bracket
for mounting the governor control cable on front mounted governors.
Does anyone have some good pictures of how this bracket is installed? Maybe even
a scan of the baffling installation OP sheet where the RV-10 baffling is described?
Since the IO-390 has a front mounted governor similar to the IO-540 used on the
RV-10, some of these baffling pieces seem to work.
Any docs you could provide would be most appreciated!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
Engine Baffling...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Himsl" <vshimsl(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Initial Baffle-To-Top-Cowling Fit... |
RV-8 O-360 rear baffle mounted van's oil cooler.
Frankly, I found the baffles to be a time consuming nightmare.
So far temps fine, Oil temp fine.
RV-8 N8432 16hrs.
Vince H. (Idaho/Washington)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: September 14, 2009 7:00 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Initial Baffle-To-Top-Cowling Fit...
Dear Listers,
The RV-8's cowling done and fits like a glove. I started the baffling last
night and its coming along nicely. The fit on the sides and back are very
good considering the IO-390 installation (and the use of the IO-360 baffle
kit). The front baffling is completely different, however, and I'm slogging
through the custom fitting.
But here's my question. I decided to put the top cowling on top of the
baffling that I've got installed so far and I was shocked that the baffling
appears to be a good 1 to 1.5" too tall!! Is this because of the IO-390 or
is that just where Van's expects you to start in your
"cutting-it-down-to-size" phase? That's a lot of snipping and fitting and
snipping and fitting. I was expecting to have to trim some, but not over a
inch...
Also, it looks like the over-sized oil cooler is going to fit nicely on the
rear baffle with only a little "modification". But I'm not sure if the
back, upper corner is going to clear the cowling. Since the cowling is
sitting over a inch high right now, I've got no way to really trial fit the
oil cooler and check for cowling clearance until I trim the baffling down.
Worst-case I could put a blister on the cowling for the rear, upper flange
of the oil cooler, I suppose, but that's kind of hokey. There is room to
move the oil cooler in towards the centerline about 1", but then the mount
will no longer line up with the flange on the outboard edge and will require
more modifications.
Thoughts...?
Attached are some pics. ( Digest viewers check http://forums.matronics.com
).
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
Baffling and Oil Cooler...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CB-1002-H Governor Bracket Installation Photos...? |
Thank you for the info, Bill.
Looks like the McCauley governor is over 1" taller than the PCU5000. That would
explain why I've been having issues with interference with the intake. I came
up with a bracket yesterday after 5 tries that seems to work pretty well.
On the good side, I'm now getting full throw on the governor and there is no binding
whatsoever. In fact, its so free that the spring always pulls it to High
RPM setting if I don't have the drag-lock on the throttle quadrant at least
a little tight. Both of these are improvements over the Van's bracket. On the
downside, the pushrod is just barely clearing the intake's upper inboard corner.
I haven't actually mounted the intake yet, so its still too soon to tell
the full impact.
Speaking of the intake, when I push it into place, its bumping into the main mounting
screw busing on the alternator. I've got the standard 60a internally regulated
unit from Van's. I'm estimating that I'm going to have to put about
a 1/4" deep "channel" into the top right side of the fiberglass intake to get
it to fit up onto the throttle body. I wonder what impact that will have on the
designed "airflow" of the intake...? There is also a strut that came with
the alternator that goes from the front of the alternator bracket to a mounting
ear on the starter. There's no way this will fit on with the fiberglass intake
in place. I wonder if I can leave it off? I've got the Skytec Inline starter
and I already had to cut one of the unused lower mounting ears off of it
because it completely interfered with the intake.
Man, there sure are a lot of "issues" getting the front part of this IO-390 installed...
Is it really that much different in the front than the IO-360? I've
read a couple of places where the IO-390 is "a bolt in replacement for the IO-360".
Well, yeah, it bolts on, but the front mounted governor and slightly
different placement of the alternator and starter make for a lot of custom modifications.
Buyer beware.
I'll post some pictures of my governor bracket later today if I decide its really
going to work.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com
FWF Baffling and Intake...
At 06:46 PM 9/19/2009 Saturday, you wrote:
>Hello Matt,
>
>
>
>The dimensions are indicated in the in the link below. It took three attempts
to get the correct prop governor drive ratio and you can certainly use my name
to get specs from the latest unit they shipped to me -- excellent folks to deal
with. I purchased the governor from Aero Technoligies for $1235...will provide
a scanned invoice detailing P/N & S/N, if interested. A friend with a recently
first-light RV-7A (BPE 390) purchased a governor from same source (& price)
-- no issues whatsoever using.
>
><http://www.pcu5000.com/pcu5000x_spec.pdf>http://www.pcu5000.com/pcu5000x_spec.pdf
>
>As for using stainless steel bracket...it was the strongest with the least weight
and no drawing was produced. It was trial & error method when it came to deciding
where to drill the holes -- will explain further should you wish to discuss...913-271-0988.
>
>I hope you found the info on Marc's site helpfull as he really hopes that the
info will be helpful to other 390 owners. BTW, I really love this engine...very
smooth, powerful and FAST. You will be very happy. Allen has several hours in
my plane and hopefully provided his experience.
>
>Have a great weekend,
>
>Bill
>
>
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
>To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
>Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2009 12:24:29 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
>Subject: RV7-List: Re: CB-1002-H Governor Bracket Installation Photos...?
>
>--> RV7-List message posted by: "Matt Dralle"
>
>Hi Bill,
>
>Do you have a 3D drawing of the bracket you made? Why did you choose steel instead
of aluminum?
>
>Your governor looks a lot shorter than the McCauley. Do you have a 3D drawing
of it, by chance? What is the exact model number? What's the height from the
boss to the control arm? Where'd you get it from?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Matt Dralle
>RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>http://www.mattsrv8.com
>
>
>wgill10(at)comcast.net wrote:
>> Hello Matt,
>>
>> I didn't use this bracket...made my own. If interested, Go to Marc's site (www.IO-390.com (http://www.IO-390.com)) and see what I did for the governor bracket and front baffles for the front mounted governor pad. Additionally, I could send some higher resolution pictures...just let me know. I have NEVER had any high temp issues...a very fast airplane as well.
>>
>> FAB Air box: http://www.io-390.com/IO-390.com/AFP_Servo.html (http://www.io-390.com/IO-390.com/AFP_Servo.html)
>> Prop Gov Cable/bracket: http://www.io-390.com/IO-390.com/Prop_Gov.html (http://www.io-390.com/IO-390.com/Prop_Gov.html)
>> Baffles: http://www.io-390.com/IO-390.com/Baffles_2.html (http://www.io-390.com/IO-390.com/Baffles_2.html)
>>
>> Good luck,
>>
>> Bill
>> RV-7 N151WP
>> BPE IO-390 w/AFP
>>
>>
>> ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Front Mounted Governor vs. Rear Mounted Governor... |
I just discovered something very interesting. The gear ratio is different between
a Front mounted governor and a Rear mounted governor - .947 to 1 (front) vs.
.866 to 1 (rear). So that means that the McCauley governor that I have that
I originally purchased for use with and O-360 won't even work with the IO-390.
This page from the PCU5000 web site is very informative:
http://www.pcu5000.com/pcu5000x.htm
It details the various ratios and what not.
I also found a PDF on the dimensions of the MT governor that Van's sells:
http://www.mt-propeller.com/pdf/manuals/e-1048.pdf
This MT governor is also 1" shorter than the McCauley governor similar to the PCU5000:
http://www.pcu5000.com/pcu5000x_spec.pdf
In this picture of the PCU5000:
http://www.pcu5000.com/index_i/hmpg_pic.gif
the PCU5000 shows an auxiliary control arm that might be very helpful in pushing
the control cable out of the way of the fiberglass intake. Although, I think
that just moving the control arm in by 1" compared to the McCauley is going
to be plenty.
At any rate, I've ordered a PCU5000X number "P-520-029/A-947" for my RV-8/IO-390
combination so hopefully I can move forward on this project...
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com
Engine Baffling...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Painting The Baffling... |
Dear Listers,
I had been planning on black anodizing the various engine baffling pieces in keeping
with my black-n-chrome theme under the hood. But I'm noticing that the
pieces are getting pretty scratched up during all of this extra fitting that's
necessary for the IO-390. Since the pieces can't be run through a surfacer first
because of the bends, I'm rethinking how good anodizing is really going to
look.
I know we're not suppose to power coat the 2024-T3 because the curing heat required
can un-T3 the 2024, but does it really matter for the baffling? Its not
really structural, per say. And if power coating is alright, what effects will
the engine compartment heat have on the power coating? There's probably a high-temp
power coat, but it would likely require a higher curing temp, and that
get's us back to the first sentence of this paragraph... Power coating the
baffling would definitely look pretty cool.
Has anyone ever chromed their baffling? That would look super cool. Can you chrome
2024-T3? How much would that cost compared to power coating?
Am I fussing too much under the hood? ;-)
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com
FWF Baffling, Intake, and Governor...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PeterHunt1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Aerobatics and Instrument Damage |
I have completed some excellent Unusual Attitude training in a Cap-10 which
included loops, rolls and spins and will soon complete additional aerobatic
training. Then I would like to try some of these aerobatics maneuvers in
my RV-6. However, I am a little concern that the gyro tumbling and/or G
forces of aerobatics may hurt my instruments. I have an AI, HSI and S-TEC
autopilot all containing electric gyros and would hate to damage them. What has
been your experience with aerobatics and instrument damage? Should I be
concerned about this?
Pete in Clearwater
RV-6, Day/night IFR, Reserve Grand Champion S 'n F
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Side Cowl Pin Size... |
Dear Listers,
I'm happy to report that the cowling on the 'ol RV-8 is complete and came out very
nice. I was able to get the seams all around very nice and tight.
Here's my question. On the bottom cowl firewall pins and the top cowl firewall
pins, the plans call out undersized pins. These go in nicely and I've got no
complaints.
However, on the side pins that join the top and bottom cowling pieces, the plans
call out an AN257-P3 hinge and don't mention using an undersized pin. I am
able to get the side pins in and out with a drill but its a lot of work, especially
going in, and it just seems like this is going to wear out the hinges after
a while.
In the kit, I noticed that Van's shipped two different types of hinges in the three-foot
lengths required for the cowling sides. There are two, 3' long AN257-P3
pieces and two, 3' long that seems to be steel instead
of aluminium like the AN257-P3. The pin inside of these steel hinges is about
2/3 the size of the pin in the AN257-P3 hinges. So, my logical thinking
lead me to think that you're suppose just use the pins from the steel hinges on
the sides for easier pin insertion/extraction. Am I reading this right? Or
is it just a coincidence that they sent the steel hinges? I don't know what
else to do with them.
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's All New RV-8 Construction Blog
Snorkel Intake Installation & Governor Recabling (1700 hours and counting)...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Side Cowl Pin Size... |
You don't use undersized pins on the sides... Try Boelube to
lubricate, the cowl and pins will fit much easier after a few heat
cycles of the engine.
Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 2, 2009, at 9:54 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> I'm happy to report that the cowling on the 'ol RV-8 is complete and
> came out very nice. I was able to get the seams all around very
> nice and tight.
>
> Here's my question. On the bottom cowl firewall pins and the top
> cowl firewall pins, the plans call out undersized pins. These go in
> nicely and I've got no complaints.
>
> However, on the side pins that join the top and bottom cowling
> pieces, the plans call out an AN257-P3 hinge and don't mention using
> an undersized pin. I am able to get the side pins in and out with a
> drill but its a lot of work, especially going in, and it just seems
> like this is going to wear out the hinges after a while.
>
> In the kit, I noticed that Van's shipped two different types of
> hinges in the three-foot lengths required for the cowling sides.
> There are two, 3' long AN257-P3 pieces and two, 3' long of hinge> that seems to be steel instead of aluminium like the AN257-
> P3. The pin inside of these steel hinges is about 2/3 the size of
> the pin in the AN257-P3 hinges. So, my logical thinking lead me to
> think that you're suppose just use the pins from the steel hinges on
> the sides for easier pin insertion/extraction. Am I reading this
> right? Or is it just a coincidence that they sent the steel
> hinges? I don't know what else to do with them.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's All New RV-8 Construction Blog
> Snorkel Intake Installation & Governor Recabling (1700 hours and
> counting)...
> <2009.09.15 - RV-8 - Cowling Fitting And Installation Complete
> (8).jpg>
> <2009.09.15 - RV-8 - Cowling Fitting And Installation Complete
> (9).jpg>
> <2009.09.15 - RV-8 - Cowling Fitting And Installation Complete
> (11).jpg>
> <2009.09.15 - RV-8 - Cowling Fitting And Installation Complete
> (1).jpg>
> <2009.09.15 - RV-8 - Cowling Fitting And Installation Complete
> (2).jpg>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Side Cowl Pin Size... |
Matt,
Van's sell a hinge pin with a little stainless tab welded to one end.
Whatever the diameter of that hinge pin is would be the right one for the
sides, since that's what the pins are for. I remember that when I did mine
several years ago, I found that most everyone complained that the pins were
hard to get in at first but got easier over time. A little Boelube helps.
It's also important to grind the end down at an angle so you can twist it a
bit to get it into a slightly misaligned hinge hole.
Mine has been sitting in the shop for longer than I care to admit, but it
does get a little easier each time I pull the cowl off to check and change
the dehydrator plugs in the engine.
Terry
RV-8A
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Friday, October 02, 2009 6:54 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Side Cowl Pin Size...
Dear Listers,
I'm happy to report that the cowling on the 'ol RV-8 is complete and came
out very nice. I was able to get the seams all around very nice and tight.
Here's my question. On the bottom cowl firewall pins and the top cowl
firewall pins, the plans call out undersized pins. These go in nicely and
I've got no complaints.
However, on the side pins that join the top and bottom cowling pieces, the
plans call out an AN257-P3 hinge and don't mention using an undersized pin.
I am able to get the side pins in and out with a drill but its a lot of
work, especially going in, and it just seems like this is going to wear out
the hinges after a while.
In the kit, I noticed that Van's shipped two different types of hinges in
the three-foot lengths required for the cowling sides. There are two, 3'
long AN257-P3 pieces and two, 3' long that seems to be
steel instead of aluminium like the AN257-P3. The pin inside of these steel
hinges is about 2/3 the size of the pin in the AN257-P3 hinges. So, my
logical thinking lead me to think that you're suppose just use the pins from
the steel hinges on the sides for easier pin insertion/extraction. Am I
reading this right? Or is it just a coincidence that they sent the steel
hinges? I don't know what else to do with them.
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's All New RV-8 Construction Blog Snorkel
Intake Installation & Governor Recabling (1700 hours and counting)...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Myers" <jmyers(at)flyingmranch.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Side Cowl Pin Size... |
Matt, I think the pins for the cowl sides are usually approximately .090 in
diameter. Don't know about your hinges. Vans sells the special hinge pins
with the tabs on them and I think they are .090. Go to the Catalog page and
search for Cowl hinge pin. Somewhere on Van's site there is also a doc
about hinges used with Van's kits. There are 1/8 inch (.125) hinge pins,
3/32
or about .093 and 1/16 in (.063) for different apps. I think the MS or AN
257 hinges are the
3/32 ones.
I ended up ordering extruded hinges rather than rolled and used 6 ft hinge
pins cut to length for insertion from inside the cockpit but I am pretty
sure they are about .090 pins as well.
Your 8 really looks good in the pictures. Good luck.
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Friday, October 02, 2009 8:54 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Side Cowl Pin Size...
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> I'm happy to report that the cowling on the 'ol RV-8 is complete and came
> out very nice. I was able to get the seams all around very nice and
> tight.
>
> Here's my question. On the bottom cowl firewall pins and the top cowl
> firewall pins, the plans call out undersized pins. These go in nicely and
> I've got no complaints.
>
> However, on the side pins that join the top and bottom cowling pieces, the
> plans call out an AN257-P3 hinge and don't mention using an undersized
> pin. I am able to get the side pins in and out with a drill but its a lot
> of work, especially going in, and it just seems like this is going to wear
> out the hinges after a while.
>
> In the kit, I noticed that Van's shipped two different types of hinges in
> the three-foot lengths required for the cowling sides. There are two, 3'
> long AN257-P3 pieces and two, 3' long that seems to
> be steel instead of aluminium like the AN257-P3. The pin inside of these
> steel hinges is about 2/3 the size of the pin in the AN257-P3 hinges. So,
> my logical thinking lead me to think that you're suppose just use the pins
> from the steel hinges on the sides for easier pin insertion/extraction.
> Am I reading this right? Or is it just a coincidence that they sent the
> steel hinges? I don't know what else to do with them.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's All New RV-8 Construction Blog
> Snorkel Intake Installation & Governor Recabling (1700 hours and
> counting)...
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Cable Routing With Front Mounted Governor... |
Dear Listers,
I thought I'd share my experience installing the control cable on my IO-390 with
a front mounted governor. I was quite perplexed with this task because the
intake snorkel takes up most of the left baffle floor and there's not a lot of
room for running a control cable for the governor down through the same area.
A special bracket would unquestionably be required.
Since the McCauley governor I had was for a rear mount and not a front mount it had the wrong gear ratio (.866 to 1 rear vs .947 to 1 front), I had to order a replacement. A couple of Listers turned me onto the PCU5000 http://www.pcu5000.com/ which is similar in size and mounting to the MT that Van's sells but seems to have less problems with oil flow. I ordered it with the 947:1 gear ratio for the front mounted boss on the IO-390 and with a CLOCKWISE control rotation which means that the control arm turning clockwise *increases* the pitch. The part number for the PCU5000 mounted on an IO-390 is P-520-029/A-947 which can be found on their application chart here: http://www.pcu5000.com/pcu5000x.htm
I scratched my head for quite a while trying to figure out an elegant way of attaching
the control cable. I made no less than three complicated brackets out
of .063 trying to get the cable to come up from the bottom through the left floor.
They mostly worked, but I just wasn't that happy with the operation and
the fact that I would have drill a hole in the floor for the cable.
Then I started playing around with the standard VA-153-PC governor bracket and
discovered that by drilling two new holes in the bracket in just the right location,
I could run the control cable back over the engine and through the rear
baffle. The best part is that the control action is really smooth and I'm getting
full Max-to-Min travel!!
To orientate the bracket, I removed two screws from the governor at 12 o'clock
and 2 o'clock positions. I placed the bracket on the governor and then rotated
it counter-clockwise until it just hit the screw at the 10 o'clock position.
I marked the two stock hole locations from the bracket onto the governor with
a sharpie. I then took the rest of the screws out and with the cap on the work
bench I put the bracket on the cap and realigned it with the two marks I had
made earlier. Then, from the INSIDE of the cap, I marked the actual cap mounting
holes onto the bracket with a sharpie. Over to the drill press to drill
the two new marks on the bracket with a #19 drill and then reassemble the whole
thing. As you can see from the photos, the alignment came out perfect.
The control cable I'm using is the standard length RV-10 prop governor cable and,
at least for the RV-8, is the perfect size.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's All New RV-8 Construction Blog
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vincent Himsl <vshimsl(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Flap motor - failure, prevention and request |
Hello=2C
Twenty hours on my RV-8 and the flap motor went south. Inspection reveals t
he wire insulation right where the wires enter the motor housing opened up
(both wires) and shorted then broke. I suspect a lot of the intermittent op
eratio problems posted on the list are due to the wires internally breaking
. The cleaning and reinstallation may temporarily cause the wires to reconn
ect thus masking the real problem.
Prevention recommendation:
Use some sealant to provide some strain relief where the wires enter the ho
using. Also loop the wire and attach it to the housing to move the flex poi
nt of the wire away from where the wires enter the motor=2C actually the bl
ack plastic brush housing.
The wires themselves do not appear to be teflon. Actually they appear to be
quite cheap.
Van's want over $320.00 for this motor. My reaction is "I don't think so...
".
If you open up the motor you will see that both wires go into a plastic bru
sh housing. I will attempt to rewire this and report back success or failur
e.
Just in case my effort fails=2C has anybody tried to order just the interna
l plastic brush housing (with wires) from the motor manufacturer? If so cou
ld you share the details? Contacts? Price?
Thanks=2C
Vince H.
Idaho=2C Washington
RV8 N8432 (20 hours)
=0A
_________________________________________________________________=0A
Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free.=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Laub <jesse(at)casco.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap motor - failure, prevention and request |
Hey Vince...and others,
I have a Flap Motor for an RV8, never used, was installed, tested and
removed. $200 plus shipping and insurance.
Also have a Flap Positioning System and Flap Control Circuit Board (to
control flaps through stick grip)
You can call 541-563-4475 or e-mail jesse(at)casco.net
Jesse Laub
Parting out RV8A project
Waldport, OR
Vincent Himsl wrote:
> Hello,
>
> Twenty hours on my RV-8 and the flap motor went south. Inspection
> reveals the wire insulation right where the wires enter the motor
> housing opened up (both wires) and shorted then broke. I suspect a lot
> of the intermittent operatio problems posted on the list are due to
> the wires internally breaking. The cleaning and reinstallation may
> temporarily cause the wires to reconnect thus masking the real problem.
>
> Prevention recommendation:
> Use some sealant to provide some strain relief where the wires enter
> the housing. Also loop the wire and attach it to the housing to move
> the flex point of the wire away from where the wires enter the motor,
> actually the black plastic brush housing.
>
> The wires themselves do not appear to be teflon. Actually they appear
> to be quite cheap.
>
> Van's want over $320.00 for this motor. My reaction is "I don't think
> so...".
>
> If you open up the motor you will see that both wires go into a
> plastic brush housing. I will attempt to rewire this and report back
> success or failure.
>
> Just in case my effort fails, has anybody tried to order just the
> internal plastic brush housing (with wires) from the motor
> manufacturer? If so could you share the details? Contacts? Price?
>
>
> Thanks,
> Vince H.
> Idaho, Washington
> RV8 N8432 (20 hours)
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Winrect/01/' target='_new'>Sign up
> now.
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Flap motor - failure, prevention and request |
Vince,
I've heard of a lot of RV-8 flap motor failures, but never has anyone (that
I'm aware of) investigated the reason for them - and certainly none have
discovered the wiring problems you spoke of.
I am just reaching 20 hours on my RV-8A and I'm going to take your advice
and strengthen the wiring. I took care to secure the flimsy wires when
building, but I'm going to address the issue again.
Thanks for reporting your info.
Stan Sutterfield
Twenty hours on my RV-8 and the flap motor went south. Inspection reveals t
he wire insulation right where the wires enter the motor housing opened up
(both wires) and shorted then broke. I suspect a lot of the intermittent op
eratio problems posted on the list are due to the wires internally breaking
. The cleaning and reinstallation may temporarily cause the wires to reconn
ect thus masking the real problem.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap motor - failure, prevention and request |
At 03:15 PM 10/15/2009 Thursday, you wrote:
>Vince,
>I've heard of a lot of RV-8 flap motor failures, but never has anyone (that I'm
aware of) investigated the reason for them - and certainly none have discovered
the wiring problems you spoke of.
>I am just reaching 20 hours on my RV-8A and I'm going to take your advice and
strengthen the wiring. I took care to secure the flimsy wires when building,
but I'm going to address the issue again.
>Thanks for reporting your info.
>Stan Sutterfield
>
>Twenty hours on my RV-8 and the flap motor went south. Inspection reveals t
>he wire insulation right where the wires enter the motor housing opened up
>(both wires) and shorted then broke. I suspect a lot of the intermittent op
>eratio problems posted on the list are due to the wires internally breaking
>. The cleaning and reinstallation may temporarily cause the wires to reconn
>ect thus masking the real problem.
Here are a couple of pictures of how I wired up my RV-8 flap motor. Notice how
the attached red/black wires are secured to the motor with a couple of wire ties
and that there is a generous service loop going into the connector. With
this arrangement, there is never any movement of the wires going to the motor
connector when the flap motor is moving. Seems like it should be pretty long-term
durable...
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com
Adding Rubber Gaskets To Baffling...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap motor - failure, prevention and request |
The usual reason for failures, at least years ago, was grease from the thre
aded shaft getting into the brushes. This issue is the first I have heard o
f.
-
Scott
=0ARV-8a
--- On Thu, 10/15/09, Speedy11(at)aol.com wrote:
From: Speedy11(at)aol.com <Speedy11(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Re: Flap motor - failure, prevention and request
Date: Thursday, October 15, 2009, 3:15 PM
=0A=0A =0A=0A=0AVince,=0AI've heard of a lot of RV-8 flap motor failures, b
ut never has anyone (that =0AI'm aware of) investigated the reason-for th
em-- and certainly none =0Ahave discovered the wiring problems you spoke
of.=0AI am just reaching 20 hours on my RV-8A and I'm going to take your ad
vice =0Aand strengthen the wiring.- I took care to secure the flimsy wire
s when =0Abuilding, but I'm going to address the issue again.=0AThanks for
reporting your info.=0AStan Sutterfield=0A-=0ATwenty =0A hours on my RV-
8 and the flap motor went south. Inspection reveals t
he =0A wire insulation right where the wires enter the motor housing opene
d up =0A
(both wires) and shorted then broke. I suspect a lot of the intermittent
=0A op
eratio problems posted on the list are due to the wires internally =0A bre
aking
. The cleaning and reinstallation may temporarily cause the wires =0A to r
econn
ect thus masking the real problem.=0A=0A-=0A=0A
==
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Welsh <chriswelsh(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap motor - failure, prevention and request |
When I was installing the flap actuator, I could not get the bolts on the nylon
bushing tight without the actuator binding. I ended up reaming the holes in
the nylon blocks out to 5/16 and making some bushings. I also capped the top
of the blocks with a piece of .06 aluminum. This allowed me to torque the bolts
properly with no binding of the actuator. I have no idea if this will help
the longevity of the flap motor, but it can't hurt. The motor was noticeably
quieter with no binding as would be expected. The other thing I did was add
two zener diodes back to back at the motor connector hoping to alleviate voltage
spikes and arcing of the motor brushes. Again, no data yet as to whether or
not this increases motor longevity but again it can't hurt.
Chris Welsh
________________________________
From: "Speedy11(at)aol.com" <Speedy11(at)aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2009 3:15:30 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Re: Flap motor - failure, prevention and request
Vince,
I've heard of a lot of RV-8 flap motor failures, but never has anyone (that
I'm aware of) investigated the reason for them - and certainly none
have discovered the wiring problems you spoke of.
I am just reaching 20 hours on my RV-8A and I'm going to take your advice
and strengthen the wiring. I took care to secure the flimsy wires when
building, but I'm going to address the issue again.
Thanks for reporting your info.
Stan Sutterfield
Twenty
> hours on my RV-8 and the flap motor went south. Inspection reveals t
>he
> wire insulation right where the wires enter the motor housing opened up
>
>(both wires) and shorted then broke. I suspect a lot of the intermittent
> op
>eratio problems posted on the list are due to the wires internally
> breaking
>. The cleaning and reinstallation may temporarily cause the wires
> to reconn
>ect thus masking the real problem.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | SJ Cowl with Standard baffles |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Is there anyone out there flying the Sam James Cowl but using standard
baffles in place of a plenum? If so can you please share your comments /
results?
I have committed to the James cowl on my 8A but don't want to deal with
a Plenum (again).
Thanks,
Robin
RV-4 Sold
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Flying
RV-8A Engine hung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Oversized Oil Cooler Installation For IO-390... |
Since the IO-390's a little bigger than the 0-320's and 0-360's traditionally used on the RVs, there have been reports of issues with oil temperatures climbing too high. Marc Ausman has some very interesting findings on his web site http://www.io-390.com regarding his experiences with the IO-390, his RV-7, and some various oil cooler installations he tried. Essentially, it boiled down to using a Steward Warner 10610R oil cooler to keep oil temperatures in a normal range. The problem with the 10610R, however, is that it is a LOT bigger than the stock Van's oil cooler. Mark had trouble fitting it on his RV-7 and I've got even less space on the RV-8.
So, once again, I found myself having the re-engineer to accommodate the IO-390
engine installation. The rear left baffle with the Van's supplied .040" doubler
is sufficiently rigid for the stock oil cooler, but the SW10610R is quite
a bit heavier and also about 1.5 times as wide. Initial fittings looked like
it was going to be a close fit if it would fit at all.
I spent the good part of two full days working on a new design for installing the
SW10610R. I came up with a .063" double that completely shadows the rear baffle
and also ties into the angle on the right of the oil cooler. I emulated
the flow baffles on the stock double by cutting the rear baffle hole slightly
large then bending them back and through the hole in the .063" doubler. I spent
a lot of time carefully measuring and cutting and filing the paired holes
and I'm extremely pleased with the fit and function. I riveted the rear baffle
and the .063" doubler with a matrix of 1/8" rivets at 1" spacing. Probably
went overboard here, but I have to say, it really stiffened up the structure,
so maybe it was worth it.
I orientated the oil cooler such that I was able to catch the mounting screw in
the back of rear cylinder. This will take a huge amount of load off the baffling
components and I'm really glad I noticed that I could use it with just a
little bit of shifting. I also added a 4" long piece of .063" angle cut down
on one side to the center rear baffle picking up the 1/4 mounting screw hole.
This also really tightened up the structure.
I had to file a large half-moon shape out of the right-rear mounting ear on the
oil cooler to clear the engine mount. It is not used structurally on the oil
cooler so no harm done. I opted to use all six mounting screw holes on the oil
cooler instead of the normal four. This also seems to stiffen up the installation.
The oil cooler is sufficiently mounted in toward the centerline such that there
are no clearance issues with the cowling, although there would have been if I
hadn't hogged out such a large half-moon from the oil cooler mount.
The best part of the installation is that the hose fittings are nearly in the stock
location, so I will be able to use the standard hose that come with the FWF
kit. Whew, for once, something works without modification.
All in all, I'm extremely pleased with the oil cooler installation. It is very
solidly mounted, still uses the stock hoses, and clears the cowling.
There are a few more pictures at (Logs 01-11):
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2972&log=90253&row=12
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's All New RV-8 Construction Blog
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | IO-390 Baffle Templates... |
Dear Listers,
I have created CAD drawings of the custom baffle pieces I made for the Lycoming
IO-390 installation on my RV-8 project. Other builder's utilizing the Lycoming
IO-390 in their RV-8 or RV-7 should be able to use these templates to greatly
speed up the baffling installation. Note that these templates also include
the cut-down for the top cowling installation. Builders may want to leave the
tops longer than the templates to assure they get a good fit to the cowling.
Attached are the low-res, non-scale JPGs of the templates for reference only.
The high resolution, full-scale PDFs can be downloaded from my RV-8 web site:
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2972&log=90450&row=2
The PDFs are meant to be printed 1:1 on 11x17 paper. Be sure to use the reference
dimensions in both the X and Y to verify that your printer is creating scale
diagrams.
Note these pieces worked on my installation, but they may or may not work on others.
No guarantees that they will fit any other installation.
There are many more pictures and descriptions of the installation on my RV-8 website:
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/category.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2972
Drop me an email if you decide to use these templates and let me know how they
worked!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's All New RV-8 Construction Blog
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vincent Himsl <vshimsl(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Flap Motor repair attempt report |
Hello=2C
I attempted to repair my flap motor and this is my report.
Problem:
Wires broken frayed at entry to flap motor housing.
Solution:
Not touching the worm gear i marked case and dissassembled the motor. The o
nly items removed from the airplane were the end=2C brush assembly and outs
ide case (stator?) of motor.
Discovered that the wires entered the black plastic brush assembly.
My assembly snapped together and wasn't glued thus I was able to separate t
wo halves with a Jeweler's screwdriver.
Soldered new wires to stubs inside housing. Cavities inside housing allowed
me to reroute the wire without the solder joint causing an interference pr
oblem.
I cleaned the rotor and brushes. Rotor was clean and didn't have much oil o
n it. The brushes however had a kind of varnish coating. Burnishing the bru
shes fixed that. I didn't do the grease removal that is mentioned a lot on
the list. Why?
I took the rotor in my hands and manually rotated it to determine the load
the motor felt raising and lowering the flaps. The feedback force is essent
ially zero even with my leaning on the flaps to restrict their movement. I
saw no evidence of grease working its way up the rotor.
I reassembled the motor and tested. Works great and I didn't spend $300 plu
s bucks for a replacement.
Will let you know if motor goes south in future. But for now=2C I need to w
ork on my 40 hours so as to make my RV-8 a respectable airplane.
Vince H.
RV8 N8432 20 hrs.
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vincent Himsl <vshimsl(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Dynon, tachs, transducers, pulses and more oh my |
Hello=2C
After exhaustive searches=2C I broke down and read my Lycoming manual. I kn
ow=2C like asking for directions and admitting you're lost.
I have a Van's tachometer transducer connected to a Dynon D-180. Now the tr
ansducer puts out 8 pulses per revolution but I=2C like most=2C had to set
it at 3.5 or 4. Why?
Well... the Lycoming manual clearly (when actually read) states that the ta
ch transducer output gear turns at a .5/1 ratio. In other words when the en
gine rotates once=2C the tach transducer output rotates 1/2 turn. If you se
t your Dynon tachometer input to 8 pulses/rev=2C you will get half the RPM.
Doing the math:(.5 Trev/Erev) x (8 pulses/Trev) = 4 pulses / Erev which i
s where most of us have been setting the Dynon using trial and a lot of err
or.
Trev= tach port rev
Erev= engine rev
pulses= transducer pulses.
Hence the 4 (some 3.5) pulses per engine revolution. Again only a compariso
n with a calibrated tach (tru-tach) will let you know for sure how close yo
u are.
Now if I am wrong=2C don't tell me for it appears to be working.
Vince H.
RV8 N8432 20 hours and 'climbing'
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ericrv6 <ericrv6(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oversized Oil Cooler Installation For IO-390... |
Matt it my be to far gone for you, but I would consider mounting it on the firewall.
If you like I can send you a picture of a customers install on a rv8.
This would also allow you to control the air flow to the cooler better in the winter
with an air controller.
Let me know.
Eric Faires
256-710-6120
www.nonstopaviation.com
eric(at)nonstopaviation.com
Muscle Shoals, Alabama
On Oct 18, 2009, at 11:37 AM, Matt Dralle wrote:
Since the IO-390's a little bigger than the 0-320's and 0-360's traditionally used on the RVs, there have been reports of issues with oil temperatures climbing too high. Marc Ausman has some very interesting findings on his web site http://www.io-390.com regarding his experiences with the IO-390, his RV-7, and some various oil cooler installations he tried. Essentially, it boiled down to using a Steward Warner 10610R oil cooler to keep oil temperatures in a normal range. The problem with the 10610R, however, is that it is a LOT bigger than the stock Van's oil cooler. Mark had trouble fitting it on his RV-7 and I've got even less space on the RV-8.
So, once again, I found myself having the re-engineer to accommodate the IO-390
engine installation. The rear left baffle with the Van's supplied .040" doubler
is sufficiently rigid for the stock oil cooler, but the SW10610R is quite
a bit heavier and also about 1.5 times as wide. Initial fittings looked like
it was going to be a close fit if it would fit at all.
I spent the good part of two full days working on a new design for installing the
SW10610R. I came up with a .063" double that completely shadows the rear baffle
and also ties into the angle on the right of the oil cooler. I emulated
the flow baffles on the stock double by cutting the rear baffle hole slightly
large then bending them back and through the hole in the .063" doubler. I spent
a lot of time carefully measuring and cutting and filing the paired holes
and I'm extremely pleased with the fit and function. I riveted the rear baffle
and the .063" doubler with a matrix of 1/8" rivets at 1" spacing. Probably
went overboard here, but I have to say, it really stiffened up the structure,
so maybe it was worth it.
I orientated the oil cooler such that I was able to catch the mounting screw in
the back of rear cylinder. This will take a huge amount of load off the baffling
components and I'm really glad I noticed that I could use it with just a
little bit of shifting. I also added a 4" long piece of .063" angle cut down
on one side to the center rear baffle picking up the 1/4 mounting screw hole.
This also really tightened up the structure.
I had to file a large half-moon shape out of the right-rear mounting ear on the
oil cooler to clear the engine mount. It is not used structurally on the oil
cooler so no harm done. I opted to use all six mounting screw holes on the oil
cooler instead of the normal four. This also seems to stiffen up the installation.
The oil cooler is sufficiently mounted in toward the centerline such that there
are no clearance issues with the cowling, although there would have been if I
hadn't hogged out such a large half-moon from the oil cooler mount.
The best part of the installation is that the hose fittings are nearly in the stock
location, so I will be able to use the standard hose that come with the FWF
kit. Whew, for once, something works without modification.
All in all, I'm extremely pleased with the oil cooler installation. It is very
solidly mounted, still uses the stock hoses, and clears the cowling.
There are a few more pictures at (Logs 01-11):
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2972&log=90253&row=12
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's All New RV-8 Construction Blog
<2009.10.11 - RV-8 - IO-390 And Oversized SW10610R Oil Cooler Installation (2).jpg>
<2009.10.11 - RV-8 - IO-390 And Oversized SW10610R Oil Cooler Installation (3).jpg>
<2009.10.11 - RV-8 - IO-390 And Oversized SW10610R Oil Cooler Installation (4).jpg>
<2009.10.11 - RV-8 - IO-390 And Oversized SW10610R Oil Cooler Installation (5).jpg>
<2009.10.11 - RV-8 - IO-390 And Oversized SW10610R Oil Cooler Installation (9).jpg>
<2009.10.11 - RV-8 - IO-390 And Oversized SW10610R Oil Cooler Installation (10).jpg>
<2009.10.11 - RV-8 - IO-390 And Oversized SW10610R Oil Cooler Installation (15).jpg>
<2009.10.11 - RV-8 - IO-390 And Oversized SW10610R Oil Cooler Installation (18).jpg>
<2009.10.11 - RV-8 - IO-390 And Oversized SW10610R Oil Cooler Installation (20).jpg>
<2009.10.11 - RV-8 - IO-390 And Oversized SW10610R Oil Cooler Installation (21).jpg>
<2009.10.11 - RV-8 - IO-390 And Oversized SW10610R Oil Cooler Installation (23).jpg>
<2009.10.11 - RV-8 - IO-390 And Oversized SW10610R Oil Cooler Installation (24).jpg>
<2009.10.11 - RV-8 - IO-390 And Oversized SW10610R Oil Cooler Installation (25).jpg>
<2009.10.11 - RV-8 - IO-390 And Oversized SW10610R Oil Cooler Installation (26).jpg>
<2009.10.11 - RV-8 - IO-390 And Oversized SW10610R Oil Cooler Installation (27).jpg>
<2009.10.11 - RV-8 - IO-390 And Oversized SW10610R Oil Cooler Installation (28).jpg>
<2009.10.11 - RV-8 - IO-390 And Oversized SW10610R Oil Cooler Installation (29).jpg>
<2009.10.11 - RV-8 - IO-390 And Oversized SW10610R Oil Cooler Installation (30).jpg>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8A QB Kit - Sell Kit or Partner Wanted to help Complete |
Empennage COMPLETED (Interior - Acid Etched, Alodined and Mil Epoxy Primered) =
Meticulous workmanship. QB Wings and QB Fuselage have NOT been started. Everything
is in excellent condition and nothing is missing (Complete Kit)
Asking $19.5K. Currently Vans sells (above) - Empennage + QB Wings + QB Fuselage
for $25K (includes Crating Charges) and there is a long "Lead Time".
Ideally like to find a Builder (Partner) to work together to complete Project who
has space to build it or sell it.
Presently hangared in Chino, CA. Need to move ASAP !!
Garey Wittich (310) 392-1682
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | PLEASE READ - Matronics Email List Fund Raiser During November! |
Dear Listers,
Each November I hold a PBS-like fund raiser to support the continued operation and upgrade of the List services at Matronics. It's solely through the Contributions of List members that these Matronics Lists are possible. There is NO advertising to support the Lists. You might have noticed the conspicuous lack of flashing banners and annoying pop-ups on the Matronics Email List email messages and web site pages such as the Matronics List Forums ( http://forums.matronics.com ), the List Wiki ( http://wiki.matronics.com), or other related pages such as the List Search Engine ( http://www.matronics.com/search ), the List Browser ( http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse ), etc. This is because I believe in a List experience that is completely about the sport we all enjoy - namely Airplanes and not about annoying advertisements.
During the month of November I will be sending out List messages every couple of
days reminding everyone that the Fund Raiser is underway. I ask for your patience
and understanding during the Fund Raiser and throughout these regular messages.
The Fund Raiser is only financial support mechanism I have to pay all
of the bills associated with running these lists. Your personal Contribution
counts!
Once again, this year I've got a terrific line up of free gifts to go along with
the various Contribution levels. Most all of these gifts have been provided
by some of the vary members and vendors that you'll find on Matronics Lists and
have been either donated or provided at substantially discounted rates.
This year, these generous people include Bob Nuckolls of the AeroElectric Connection (http://www.aeroelectric.com/), Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore (http://www.buildersbooks.com/), and Jon Croke of HomebuiltHELP (http://www.homebuilthelp.com/).
These are extremely generous guys and I encourage you to visit their respective
web sites. Each one offers a unique and very useful aviation-related product
line. I would like publicly to thank Bob, Andy, and Jon for their generous support
of the Lists again this year!!
You can make your List Contribution using any one of three secure methods this
year including using a credit card, PayPal, or by personal check. All three methods
afford you the opportunity to select one of this year's free gifts with
a qualifying Contribution amount!!
To make your Contribution, please visit the secure site below:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
I would like to thank everyone in advance for their generous financial AND moral
support over the years!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | November List Fund Raiser |
A couple of years ago I implemented an automatic "squelch button" of sorts for
the Fund Raiser messages. Here's how it works... As soon as a List member makes
a Contribution through the Matronics Fund Raiser web site, he or she will
instantly cease to receive these Fund Raiser messages for the rest of the month!
Its just that simple. Don't you wish PBS worked that way! :-)
I really do appreciate each and every one of your individual Contributions to support
the Lists. It is your support that enables me to upgrade the hardware
and software that are required to run a List Site such as this one. It also goes
to pay for the commercial-grade Internet connection and to pay the huge electric
bill to keep the computer gear running and the air conditioner powered
on. I run all of the Matronics Email List and Forums sites here locally which
allows me to control and monitor every aspect of the system for the utmost in
reliably and performance.
Your personal Contribution matters because, when combined with other Listers such
as yourself, it pays the bills to keep this site up and running. I accept
exactly ZERO advertising dollars for the Matronics Lists sites. I can't stand
the pop-up ads and all other commercials that are so prevalent on the Internet
these days and I particularly don't want to have it on my Email List sites.
If you appreciate the ad-free, grass-roots, down-home feel of the Matronics Email
Lists, please make a Contribution to keep it that way!!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
[Note that there are certain circumstances where you might still see a Contribution
related message. For example, if someone replies to one of the messages,
when using the List Browse feature, or when accessing List message via the Forum.
The system keys on the given email address and since most of these are anonymous
public access methods, there is no simple way to filter them.]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Dear Listers,
Just a quick reminder that November is the annual List Fund Raiser. The Matronics
Lists are 100% member supported and all of the operational costs are provided
for my your Contributions during this time of the year.
Your personal Contribution makes a difference and keeps all of the Matronics Email
Lists and Forums completely ad-free.
Please make your Contribution today to keep these services up and running!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you in advance!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
I tried to make contribution, however am unable to make your complicated
aparatus function ??
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 05, 2009 2:08 AM
Subject: RV8-List: Reminder
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> Just a quick reminder that November is the annual List Fund Raiser. The
> Matronics Lists are 100% member supported and all of the operational costs
> are provided for my your Contributions during this time of the year.
>
> Your personal Contribution makes a difference and keeps all of the
> Matronics Email Lists and Forums completely ad-free.
>
> Please make your Contribution today to keep these services up and running!
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> Thank you in advance!
>
> Matt Dralle
> Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists |
Dear Listers,
There is no advertising income to support the Matronics Email Lists and Forums.
The operation is supported 100% by your personal Contributions during the November
Fund
Raiser.
Please make your Contribution today to support the continued operation and upgrade
of these services. You can pick up a really nice gift for making your Contribution
too!
You may use a Credit Card or Paypal at the Matronics Contribution Site here:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or, you can send a personal check to the following address:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551-0347
Thank you in advance for your generous support!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Fund Raiser List of Contributors - Please Make A Contribution |
Today!
Each year at the end of the List Fund Raiser, I post a message acknowledging everyone
that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its my way
of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation for
the Lists.
Won't you take a moment and assure that your name is on that List of Contributors
(LOC)? As a number of members have pointed out over the years, the List seems
at least - if not a whole lot more - valuable as a building/flying/recreating/entertainment
tool as your typical magazine subscription!
Please take minute and assure that your name is on this year's LOC! Show others
that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is
fast and easy using your Credit card or Paypal on the Secure Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551-0347
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps
these Lists going and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about
how the Lists have helped you!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | List Fund Raiser |
Dear Listers,
Just a reminder that November is the Matronics Email List Fund Raiser month. There
are some very nice incentive gifts to choose from as well!
Please make your Contribution today:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Some Very Nice Comments... |
Dear Listers,
I've been getting some really nice comments from Listers along with their List
Support Contributions. I've shared some of them below. Please read them over
and see what your fellow Listers think of the Lists and Forums.
Please make a Contribution today to support the continued upgrade and operation
of these services.
There are lots of sweet gifts available, so browse the extensive selection and
pickup a nice item along with your qualifying Contribution.
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you in advance for your generous support! It is very much appreciated!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
----------- What Listers Are Saying About The Lists -----------
Few things in life bring more usefulness than the List. This
is worth every penny!
Stephen T.
I have enjoyed the list for way too many years, but continue
to get closer to flying my project with the help of listers.
C.L.
Thanks for this List. It's been a great source of encouragement
and information.
Arden A.
Great service!
Gerald T.
It's always interesting reading the lists and I've gotten some
good help from the issues and answers there.
Steve T.
Been a member of the List for 12 years. Keep up the good work.
John H.
Great Site!
Harry M.
Great source of information...
Martin H.
Thanks for providing this great service!
Jeff P.
I continue to get and give information through these lists.
Ralph C.
This is a wonderful resource!
Warren H.
This is what inernet was meant for, sharing information and
experience. Michael W.
Thanks for making such a good list!
Fred D.
Thanks for running a great service!
Michael F.
I really appreciate it.
Dan H.
Thanks for the great service.
Michael L.
Thanks for maintaining this great resource.
John C.
Your sites have been a great resourses and an introduction
to many competent aircraft designers and fabricators.
Jon M.
Thanks for all that you do to maintain the Matronics forums
and for the personal help that you have been to me in
answering my questions regarding the use of the forums.
William B.
[The List] helped me get flying, fly off my test hours and
make my systems better. Ralph C.
The Universe is a better place because of you.
Eric J.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Hydraulic Strut For RV-8 Baggage Door... |
Dear Listers,
I was surfing around on the http://www.mykitlog.com recently and saw where someone had installed an hydraulic strut for holding the front baggage door open on the RV-8 similar to what you see on a hatch-back. I'll be darned if I can remember who that was now. I'd like to do something similar and it would be helpful to know the specs and installation points on the strut.
Anyone?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Rice <rice737(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Hydraulic Strut For RV-8 Baggage Door... |
Hey Matt=2C
I believe what you want can be found on a resources link from vans website.
Go to resources links=2C RV8=2C John Huft=2C the construction=2C hidden hi
nges. I did this on my 8 and it works great.
Paul Rice
RV8 200 hours of fun.
> Date: Sun=2C 15 Nov 2009 16:09:11 -0800
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com=3B rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> From: dralle(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Hydraulic Strut For RV-8 Baggage Door...
>
>
>
> Dear Listers=2C
>
> I was surfing around on the http://www.mykitlog.com recently and saw wher
e someone had installed an hydraulic strut for holding the front baggage do
or open on the RV-8 similar to what you see on a hatch-back. I'll be darned
if I can remember who that was now. I'd like to do something similar and i
t would be helpful to know the specs and installation points on the strut.
>
> Anyone?
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hydraulic Strut For RV-8 Baggage Door... |
| From: | Larry Bowen <larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
I have some notes here:
http://blog.bowenaero.com/?p=11
--
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
On Sun, Nov 15, 2009 at 9:39 PM, Paul Rice wrote:
> Hey Matt,
>
> I believe what you want can be found on a resources link from vans website.
> Go to resources links, RV8, John Huft, the construction, hidden hinges. I
> did this on my 8 and it works great.
>
> Paul Rice
> RV8 200 hours of fun.
>
> > Date: Sun, 15 Nov 2009 16:09:11 -0800
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> > From: dralle(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV8-List: Hydraulic Strut For RV-8 Baggage Door...
>
> >
> >
> >
> > Dear Listers,
> >
> > I was surfing around on the http://www.mykitlog.com recently and saw
> where someone had installed an hydraulic strut for holding the front baggage
> door open on the RV-8 similar to what you see on a hatch-back. I'll be
> darned if I can remember who that was now. I'd like to do something similar
> and it would be helpful to know the specs and installation points on the
> strut.
> >
> > Anyone?
> >
> > Matt Dralle
> > RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> > http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
> >
> >===========
>
> >
> >
> >
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Contributions Down By 21%... |
Dear Listers,
As of today, contributions to the Matronics List Fund Raiser are lagging behind
last year at this time by 21%. I have a fund raiser each year simply to cover
my operating costs for the Lists. I *do not* accept any advertising income
to support the Lists and rely solely on the contributions of members to keep the
expenses paid.
I run all of my own servers and they are housed here locally, and the Internet
connection is a commercial-grade, T1 connection with public address space. I
also maintain a full backup system that does nightly backups of all List-related
data so that in the event of a server crash or worse, all of the Lists and
the many years of List archive data could be restored onto a new server in a matter
of hours.
All of this costs a fair amount of money, not to mention a significant amount of
my personal time as well. I have a Fund Raiser each year to cover these costs
and I ask that members that feel they receive a benefit from my investments,
make a modest contribution each year to support the continued operation and
upgrade of these services.
If you enjoy the Lists, please make a contribution today. I also offer some incentive
gifts for larger contribution levels. At the Contribution Web Wite, you
can use a credit card, Paypal, or personal check to show your support for the
continuation of these services:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Hydraulic Strut For RV-8 Baggage Door |
Matt -
Photos of what I did on this page - _http://www.rv-8a.net/2009APR.htm_
(http://www.rv-8a.net/2009APR.htm)
Stan Sutterfield
I was surfing around on the http://www.mykitlog.com recently and saw where
someone had installed an hydraulic strut for holding the front baggage
door open on the RV-8 similar to what you see on a hatch-back. I'll be darned
if I can remember who that was now. I'd like to do something similar and
it would be helpful to know the specs and installation points on the strut.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | UALPILOT3(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Hydraulic Strut For RV-8 Baggage Door... |
Hi Matt,
I have three brand new gas struts, a 5# and two 10# for sale. I tried the
5# and it was not enough to hold the door up. The heavier struts worked
but distorted the door in the closed position. Call me and we can chat.
210-887-4546.
Blue Skies and Tailwinds
LES BOURNE
In a message dated 11/15/2009 6:10:37 P.M. Central Standard Time,
dralle(at)matronics.com writes:
--> RV8-List message posted by: Matt Dralle
Dear Listers,
I was surfing around on the http://www.mykitlog.com recently and saw where
someone had installed an hydraulic strut for holding the front baggage
door open on the RV-8 similar to what you see on a hatch-back. I'll be darned
if I can remember who that was now. I'd like to do something similar and
it would be helpful to know the specs and installation points on the strut.
Anyone?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | What's My Contribution Used For? |
Dear Listers,
Some have asked, "What's my Contribution used for?" and that's a good question.
Here are just a few examples of what your direct List support enables. It provides
for the very expensive, commercial-grade T1 Internet connection used on
the List insuring maximum performance and minimal contention when accessing List
services. It pays for the regular system hardware and software upgrades enabling
the highest performance possible for services such as the Archive Search
Engine, List Browser, and Forums. It pays for narly 20 years (yeah, I really
said *20* years) worth of online archive data available for instant random search
and access. And, it offsets the many hours spent writing, developing, and
maintaining the custom applications that power this List Service such as the List
Browse, Search Engine, Forums, and Wiki.
But most importantly, your List Contribution enables a forum where you and your
peers can communicate freely in an environment that is free from moderation,
censorship, advertising, commercialism, SPAM, and computer viruses. How many places
on the Internet can you make all those statements these days?
It is YOUR CONTRIBUTION that directly enables these many aspects of these valuable
List services. Please support it today with your List Contribution. Its one
of the best investments you can make in your Sport...
List Contribution Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Just A Few Days Left; Still Trailing Last Year... |
Dear Listers,
There are just a few more days left of this year's List Fund Raiser! Response
has been very good, but still well behind last year. If you've been waiting until
the last minute to make your contribution and maybe even pick up a great
gift, now might be good time to show your support!
Please remember that there isn't any sort of commercial advertising on the Lists
and the *only* means of keeping these Lists running is through your Contributions
during this Fund Raiser.
Please make a Contribution today!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | In Flight HD Videos |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Anyone out there recording in flight HD videos? I recall seeing a tail
mounted bullet camera and some semi-wide angle video that was fantastic.
I want to record in flight videos in a similar way. I thought about
mounting a HD bullet camera in the fiberglass section of the vertical
stabilizer but I cannot find any 12V HD DVR's that are an acceptable
size and weight. Most of them are low resolution Security DVR's.
A second fly in the ointment is I want to pull the audio in from the
audio panel vs. just an open air mic. There seem to be some combination
choices like these:
Really Small but not HD and no audio input.
Or this one:
1080P but no external audio feed. This is an all in one unit so no
remote mounting as you have to have access to turn on/off
The nice part about this is it's movable
Same with this unit:
1080P but no external audio feed. This is an all in one unit so no
remote mounting as you have to have access to turn on/off
The nice part about this is it's movable
Now I made a BIG mistake by mounting two DVD players in my RV-10 when
portable ones would have been a much better choice due to advances in
technology but I figured mounting an HD camera is not that big a deal as
the most important part is the capture device (DVR) but as I can't find
any (except the Sony for $3,000) maybe the helmet style is best.
I believe this is another example of something I want/need now but the
market has not quite caught up with my requirements.
Any guidance would be appreciated.
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Make Sure You're Listed! List of Contributors Published in |
December!
Dear Listers,
The List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner! In December I post a
list of everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists.
Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation
for the Lists.
Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming LOC? Tell others
that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists
is fast and easy using your Visa, MasterCard, or Paypal account:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551-0347
USA
(Please include your email address on the check!)
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far during this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps
these Lists running and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment
about how the Lists have helped you!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Just A Few More Days To Make Your List Contribution... |
There is less than a week left in this year's List Fund Raiser and only a few short
days to grab one of the great Contribution Gifts available this year. Support
is still significantly lagging behind last year at this point but hopefully
it will pick up here towards the end. Please remember that it is solely the
Contributions of List members that keeps the Lists up and running as there
is no commercialism or advertising on the Matronics Lists and Forums.
The List Contribution web site is secure, fast, and easy and you can use a credit
card, Paypal, or a personal check:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
I want to thank everyone that has already made a generous contribution to support
the Lists!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics EMail List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | What Are You Thankful For...? |
Dear Listers,
Here in the United States, Thursday is our National day of Thanksgiving. Many
of us will be traveling to be with our families and friends to share in generous
feasts of plenty and giving thanks for many blessings that have been bestowed
upon us.
Many Listers have expressed over the last couple of weeks how thankful they are
for the Email Lists and Forums here on the Matronics servers and for all of the
assistance and comradery they have experienced being a part of the Lists.
One of my favorite comments is when someone writes to me and says something like,
"Its the first thing I do in the morning while I'm having my morning coffee!".
That's a wonderful tribute to the purpose and function of these Lists.
Its always great to hear I'm not the only one that jumps out of bed each morning
to check my List email!!
Won't you take a minute today and show your appreciation for these Lists and for
their continued operation and upgrade?
The List Contribution Site is:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you in advance for your kind consideration,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 - Baggage Door Strut... |
Dear Listers,
The stock front baggage door on the RV-8 doesn't come with any means of holding
it open other than your arm. Since I'd already experienced what happens when
the latch pins are in the "latched" position and the door suddenly slams shut
(dents and scratches), I really wanted to find a nice strut of some kind that
would hold the door open, yet be relatively easy to install/replace/use.
Some browsing in the McMaster-Carr on-line catalog turned up what turn out to be
the absolute *perfect* part for the job. The strut unit is made for tool box
lids and has pre-installed mounts on each end that work perfectly on the RV-8
baggage door with no modifications whatsoever. Incredible, really. The best
part is that in operation, and using the mounting dimensions shown in the pictures,
the strut will securely hold the door open AND closed! Its amazing actually!
At about 2" from closed the geometry of the system has nearly zero pressure
open/closed and then at the last 1" or so, slightly pulls the door down.
Note that the latch pins are still needed to hold the door securely closed.
Conversely, after about 3" open, there is enough push in the spring to gently
open the door all the way and then hold it open very nicely. If you have an
RV-8 and want a baggage door strut, look no further. This is the perfect ticket:
McMaster-Carr Part Number: 11615A14
Here is the on-line web page for the part:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#11615A14
At $34.75 (circa 2009) its a little pricey, but its stainless steel and did I mention
- works PERFECTLY on the RV-8 front baggage door! Buy one now!
I used three standard LP4-3 pop rivets on the top attachment hinge to the side
of the baggage door, and two #8 platenuts and screws on the lower attachment.
For the correct geometry, you'll want to mount the upper hinge exactly 11/16" from
the bottom of the door as shown in the pictures. The lower hinge should be
mounted exactly 8.0" from the exterior skin of the fuselage as shown in the
picture.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | No "Black Friday" For List Fund Raiser... |
Even though the number of List subscriptions and List posts are up significantly
this year compared to last year, support during this year's List Fund Raiser
has been woefully lagging from last year. There are only a couple more days
left in November and the end of the Fund Raiser is quickly approaching.
I have always preferred a non-commercial List experience as many, many members
have also expressed that they do as well. However, if the yearly fund raiser
cannot generate sufficient funds to keep the bills paid on the List service expenses,
I will have to look into some sort of advertising. Please don't let that
happen!
Your personal contribution of $20 or $30 goes a long ways to keeping the operation
a float. The lunch combo at Carl's Jr costs nearly $10 these days. Isn't
the List worth at least as much as a couple of burgers?
Please make sure your name is on this year's List of Contributors published in
December. The Contribution site is secure, quick, and easy:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you in advance for your support!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Just Two More Days Left; Fund Raiser Behind By 12%... |
Dear Listers,
This year's List Fund Raiser is still trailing last year by a 12% margin. If you
like the ad-free environment that is the Matronics Email List and Forum experience,
please make a quick Contribution to keep it that way!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
I've been getting a ton of really nice comments from Contributors regarding the
Lists. Please read over some of them below and see if they don't resonate with
you as well.
Thank you in advance for your generous contribution to support these Lists!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
--------------------------- Member Feedback ----------------------------
ur web site is a real institution of the whole Experimental
Aircraft subculture.
John G
Thanks Matt for the lists. A lot of good info. Great bunch
of list members. Great videos and no SPAM.
Paul C
It has been a valuable tool.
Troy M
..appreciate the site as much as ever.
Larry M
By using various forums I've learned a ton, received great
advice, made friends, and saved money!
Craig W
Since I've finished [my project], I've not had much to do as
far as fabrication of electrical systems. However,
selectively reading various topics is still very valuable
and Bob's insights and new how to's make me a continuous
subscriber.
Larry F
Matronics user groups are the best tool I have for learning
to build my RV-10!
Philip W
There is always useful knowledge to be found on this list,
and I suspect that it has kept quite a few people out of
trouble over the years it has been in operation. Good
entertainment, too.
Graham H
Great web site. I wish I'd known about it while building.
Bob S
I'm happy to provide some support to this list. It is very
helpful.
Vaughn T
Good service to sport aviation!!
Roger B
Awesome Service you provide for us!
Bill R
My [project] is almost finished! However, it wouldn't be
close without the [this] group.
Douwe B
Great list.
Robert S
I'm not a builder yet but learning lots from the list.
Peter M
Some nonsense, some humor, but mostly good information.
Tony C
Thanks for creating and keeping the Lists. They are
entertaining and always informative!
John M
Thanks for this valuable resource to our community.
Barry H
The list is IMHO the greatest resource on the net.
John B
Thanks again for providing another year of your useful
List service.
Jerry B
Great site indeed, every time I get a message I usually
learn something.
Peter B
You are making a huge contribution to the builder fraternity
and in no small way enhancing sport aviation safety.
Richard G
The List is the SINGLE, MOST IMPORTANT resource I have in
building my RV10. I would be lost without out it. And I
have made a bunch of new friends as well!
Les K
The lists are one of the things I really enjoy, so keep
up the good work.
Freddie H
Every year -- the best value for my time and money!
Owen B
This list is a major contribution to safe building!
Donald K
Really enjoy the daily boost it gives me.
Walter S
In the last 18 months I have been privileged to listen &
ask. I have learnt at the feet of the masters...
Stewart G
You set the standard on how Internet forums should be run
and managed.
Larry W
The Universe is a better place because of you.
Eric J
[The List] helped me get flying, fly off my test hours and
make my systems better. I continue to get and give
information through these lists.
Ralph C
..another GREAT year of advice, answers, and inspiration
courtesy of the Lists and your hard work!!!!
Rob B
..the best forum on the Internet!
Robert B
I can't tell you how grateful I am for your list and your
subscribers to keep me up to date and holding the dream.
Ashley M
This page makes it easy to contribute.
Jeffrey P
Thank you for your expertise in creating & running the
much useful lists!
Anthony P
Thanks for providing our advertising free on line community.
George R
Thanks for maintaining the equipment and software to
provide this valuable source of information to us
individuals. Your effort is appreciated by many more people
than you realize.
Ross H
Thanks for a great site. Although the project is complete
and flying I still get a wealth of information from all
the messages.
Marcus C
Only learned about you six months ago...my RV-7A is just
finished, but the list has been helpful. Wish I had
discovered you sooner.
Jack B
This is an invaluable communications media for us
common minded folks to exchange technical and other
information.
George H
..great service that you provide.
David W
..still appreciate your list.
Alain L
[The] Lists are an invaluable resource. I know that it has
helped me enormously in my project.
William B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [Please Read] - Last Official Day of List Fund Raiser! |
Dear Listers,
Its November 30th and that means at least two things. For better or worse, its
my 46th birthday! But it also means that its that last official day of the
Matronics Email List Fund Raiser! If you been jones'n over one of the really
nice gifts that are available this year with a qualifying Contribution, then now
is the time to jump on one!!
If you've been meaning to make a Contribution this month but have been putting
it off for some reason, NOW is the time!
I will be posting the List of Contributors in a few days, so you'll probably want
to be known as a person that supported the Lists!
I want to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution so far this
year in support of our Lists. It is your generosity that keeps this operation
a float and I don't ever forget it. Hopefully everyone feels the same.
The List Contribution Web Site is fast and easy. Please support our habit by making
your Contribution right now:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you to all in advance!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Princeton Electronics 18-5B-5S Fuel Senders |
| From: | "leewradz" <magromeo(at)msn.com> |
I'm trying to figure out where to install the electric fuel pump and separate fuel
filter from Airflow Performance. Anybody got experience with sensible locations
on the floor of the cockpit?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276921#276921
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Princeton Electronics 18-5B-5S Fuel Senders |
Didn't Vans have a drawing showing the Airflow Performance pump & filter
just behind the firewall, left side, either on the floor or vertically on
the frame? Anyway, I installed my Airflow pump on the floor in that
location, but didn't use their filter. Leaving out their filter in favor of
an Andair gascolator was probably not a good decision.
Terry
RV-8A #80729 stalled
Seattle
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of leewradz
Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 5:29 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Re: Princeton Electronics 18-5B-5S Fuel Senders
I'm trying to figure out where to install the electric fuel pump and
separate fuel filter from Airflow Performance. Anybody got experience with
sensible locations on the floor of the cockpit?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276921#276921
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Princeton Electronics 18-5B-5S Fuel Senders |
At 05:29 PM 12/9/2009 Wednesday, you wrote:
>
>I'm trying to figure out where to install the electric fuel pump and separate
fuel filter from Airflow Performance. Anybody got experience with sensible locations
on the floor of the cockpit?
Hi Lee,
Here are a few log entries documenting how I mounted mine on the RV-8:
Log parts 1-3 (Plumbing):
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2973&log=67072&row=191
Log parts 1-2 (Floscan 201b Transducer Mounting):
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2973&log=67081&row=188
Log Parts 1-3 (Pump and Filter Mounts):
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2973&log=67079&row=186
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 - Instrument Panel Power Coat & Silkscreen... |
Listers,
I got the instrument panel back from power coat and silkscreen today and I just
couldn't wait to stick the instruments in to see what it looks like!
Sweet!!
I can hardly wait to get it mounted and powered back up!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
Final Assembly
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 12/16/09 |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Matt, from the looks of your panel you may want to lay on a couple more ba
ttery and alternators. The space shuttle don't have as many screens. Ha.
Best regards, Bill of Georgia RV-8a All Done but the Wiring; Oh and Rive
t down the forward top skin and attach the windscreen. Oh, and painting an
d final assembly. Dam, it never ends!
-----Original Message-----
From: RV8-List Digest Server <rv8-list(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Thu, Dec 17, 2009 2:59 am
Subject: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 12/16/09
*
========================
========================
=
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
========================
========================
=
Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the
wo Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
n HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
nd Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
f the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
uch as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=ht
ml&Chapter 09-12-16&Archive=RV8
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=tx
t&Chapter 09-12-16&Archive=RV8
========================
=======================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
========================
=======================
----------------------------------------------------------
RV8-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Wed 12/16/09: 1
----------------------------------------------------------
oday's Message Index:
---------------------
1. 07:26 PM - RV-8 - Instrument Panel Power Coat & Silkscreen... (Mat
t
ralle)
_______________________________ Message 1 ______________________________
_______
rom: Matt Dralle
ubject: RV8-List: RV-8 - Instrument Panel Power Coat & Silkscreen...
isters,
I got the instrument panel back from power coat and silkscreen today and
I just
ouldn't wait to stick the instruments in to see what it looks like!
Sweet!!
I can hardly wait to get it mounted and powered back up!
att Dralle
V-8 #82880 N998RV
ttp://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
inal Assembly
-========================
========================
===========
-
-= -- Please Support Your Lists This Month --
-= (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)
-
-= November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on
-= the Contribution link below to find out more about
-= this year's Terrific Free Incentive Gifts provided
-= by:
-= * AeroElectric www.aeroelectric.com
-= * The Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com
-= * HomebuiltHELP www.homebuilthelp.com
-
-= List Contribution Web Site:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-
-= Thank you for your generous support!
-
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-
-========================
========================
===========
-= - The RV8-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List
-
-========================
========================
===========
-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
-
-= --> http://forums.matronics.com
-
-========================
========================
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Gretz GA-1000 heated pitot for sale |
New in the box. $325 ($100 below list). I decided to go with a different
pitot install.
Carl Froehlich
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | 2009 List of Contributors |
Dear Listers,
The 2009 Matronics Email List and Forum Fund Raiser officially ended a couple of
weeks ago and its time that I publish this year's List of Contributors. Its
the people on this list that directly make the Email Lists and Forums possible.
Their generous
contributions keep the servers and Internet connection up and running.
You can still show your support this year and pick up a great gift at the same
time. The Contribution Web Site is fast, easy, and secure:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
I also want to thank Bob, Jon, Andy, and John for their generous support through
the supply of great gifts this year!! These guys have some great products and
I encourage you to visit their respective web sites:
Bob Nucklolls - AeroElectric - www.aeroelectric.com
Jon Croke - HomebuiltHELP - www.homebuilthelp.com
Andy Gold - The Builder's Bookstore - www.buildersbooks.com
John Caldwell - HowToCrimp - www.howtocrimp.com
And finally, I'm proud to present The 2009 Fund Raiser List of Contributors:
http://www.matronics.com/loc/2009.html
Thanks again to everyone that made a Contribution this year!!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Heavy Wings on RV-8 |
Has anybody out there done something other than squeezing the trailing edge
of the light wing in order to correct a heavy wing problem? Has anyone
discovered an aerodynamic cause for a heavy wing?
I'm stumped.
Stan Sutterfield
Daytona Beach
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heavy Wings on RV-8 |
| From: | Tracy Crook <tracy(at)rotaryaviation.com> |
I was confused for awhile too. I spent days getting the wings perfectly
matched for AOA before drilling the aft spar and still had a heavy left
wing. A minor squeezing of the right aileron trailing edge didn't help
enough. A slight adjustment of both flaps in the appropriate (opposite)
directions was effective. The change was not enough to notice any visual
misalignment of flap trailing edges with the ailerons As always, YMMV
depending on the cause of the heavy wing.
Tracy Crook
On Thu, Dec 31, 2009 at 10:04 AM, wrote:
> Has anybody out there done something other than squeezing the trailing
> edge of the light wing in order to correct a heavy wing problem? Has anyone
> discovered an aerodynamic cause for a heavy wing?
> I'm stumped.
> Stan Sutterfield
> Daytona Beach
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Heavy Wings on RV-8 |
I worked this problem on three RV-8s, including my 8A. What I learned was
that control surface rigging on an RV is not a trivial exercise. I also
learned that the "squeezing the trailing edge of the light wing" is the
absolute last thing to do, and it has the least effect. In other words,
this should be considered the final "fine tuning tweak".
Here is a short list of common areas to check:
1. Ignore the alignment of the aileron to flap or aileron to wing tip
trailing edge. Use the templates provided by Van's to define the "ailerons
in trail position" (if you don't have the templates use a straight edge and
ruler). Once you lock one aileron in the trail position, then adjust the
aileron linkage to put the opposite aileron in the trial position.
2. Measure the aileron height (as compared to the wing top or bottom
skin) at both inboard and outboard hinges. Another check is to measure the
gap between the wing top skin trailing edge and the forward top rivet line
on the aileron with the aileron locked in the trailing position. Of all the
rigging problems I've seen, this is the most common. What you may find is
one end of one aileron is lower/higher or more fore/aft than the other end.
This places more aileron surface in the airstream above/below one aileron
than the other - causing the asymmetric lift even though the aileron are
both in the trail position. Two ways to fix this:
a. Call Van's and order a couple of "no hole" aileron hinge brackets.
The hinge brackets Van's sells are pre-drilled. Van's sells no hole
brackets so that you can drill the bolt hole off center - thus placing the
aileron in the correct position.
b. Take the current bracket that needs adjustment and make the bracket
to wing bolt holes into slots (in the direction you need to go) so that the
bracket itself can move up/down. This works only in the up/down direction
however. The no hole brackets allow for adjustment in both the up/down and
fore/aft direction.
3. Once you get the ailerons right, then check for flap and wing tip
alignment. Again with the ailerons locked in the trail position, adjust
each flap trailing edge to align with the aileron when the flap is in the
full up position. This may require you to reposition the fuselage flap
stop. Considering the moment arm on the wingtips, even a small misalignment
can create a roll tendency. During construction the wingtip trailing edge
alignment is possible as you have some control on mounting (a good reason to
delay wingtip mounting until after you complete the above steps on rigging).
If the wingtip is already mounted, you can still fix the trailing edge by
cutting along the trailing edge aft seam to separate the aft wingtip
top/bottom halves. Once separated they can be adjusted to align with the
aileron trailing edge, then glassed back together.
Once you do all of this, fly the airplane and make minor adjustments in the
left/right aileron push tubes as needed. The acid test to tell you if you
are done or not is if you have no change in roll trim with speed.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (525 hrs)
RV-10 (systems install)
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Speedy11(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 10:05 AM
Subject: RV8-List: Heavy Wings on RV-8
Has anybody out there done something other than squeezing the trailing edge
of the light wing in order to correct a heavy wing problem? Has anyone
discovered an aerodynamic cause for a heavy wing?
I'm stumped.
Stan Sutterfield
Daytona Beach
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heavy Wings on RV-8 |
| From: | Dan Bergeron <dan.pat.b(at)gmail.com> |
Stan:
I had the same frustrating issue with my RV-7A, i.e., a heavy left wing. I
checked everything and made all sorts of minor adjustments to aileron and
flap positions. Nothing seemed to work. No, I never did squeeze an
aileron; and no my wife in the right seat didn't work either.
What I did eventually notice was a very slight difference in the upper
surface, spanwise curvature of the wings, relative to each other, in the
vicinity of the aftmost line of rivets in the wing itself. Either there is
a very slight difference in the positioning of the pre-punched holes, in th
e
flap brace for example, or the parts themselves are slightly different in
size. If you look at mine very carefully you can see that the left wing ha
s
a bit more camber (more like an elongated bump) in that area than the right
wing, and you can feel it with your fingers.
My friend and mentor, three-time repeat offender Fred Stucklen, suggested
what turned out to be the perfect solution: Avery Tools sells a "rudder
trim tab," part #9883. It's nothing more than a solid piece of plastic,
about 5" long, 1.5" from front to back and tapered from a near knife edge i
n
the front to .25" in the rear. I bonded it with proseal to the underside o
f
the outboard trailing edge of the right aileron, just inboard from the
wingtip. It forces the right aileron up ever so slightly; honestly if I
look at the ailerons in flight, I can't see the difference. Problem solved
for $13.50 and a bit of proseal.
What a magnificent flying machine!
Dan Bergeron
RV-7A, N307TB
74 hours since first flight
on 8/4/09 at 7B2 (Northampton Airport, MA)
On Thu, Dec 31, 2009 at 10:56 AM, Carl Froehlich wrote:
> I worked this problem on three RV-8s, including my 8A. What I learned
> was that control surface rigging on an RV is not a trivial exercise. I a
lso
> learned that the =93squeezing the trailing edge of the light wing=94 is t
he
> absolute last thing to do, and it has the least effect. In other words,
> this should be considered the final =93fine tuning tweak=94.
>
>
> Here is a short list of common areas to check:
>
> 1. Ignore the alignment of the aileron to flap or aileron to wing ti
p
> trailing edge. Use the templates provided by Van=92s to define the =93ai
lerons
> in trail position=94 (if you don=92t have the templates use a straight ed
ge and
> ruler). Once you lock one aileron in the trail position, then adjust the
> aileron linkage to put the opposite aileron in the trial position.
>
> 2. Measure the aileron height (as compared to the wing top or bottom
> skin) at both inboard and outboard hinges. Another check is to measure t
he
> gap between the wing top skin trailing edge and the forward top rivet lin
e
> on the aileron with the aileron locked in the trailing position. Of all
the
> rigging problems I=92ve seen, this is the most common. What you may find
is
> one end of one aileron is lower/higher or more fore/aft than the other en
d.
> This places more aileron surface in the airstream above/below one aileron
> than the other ' causing the asymmetric lift even though the aileron ar
e
> both in the trail position. Two ways to fix this:
>
> a. Call Van=92s and order a couple of =93no hole=94 aileron hinge
> brackets. The hinge brackets Van=92s sells are pre-drilled. Van=92s sel
ls no
> hole brackets so that you can drill the bolt hole off center ' thus pla
cing
> the aileron in the correct position.
>
> b. Take the current bracket that needs adjustment and make the
> bracket to wing bolt holes into slots (in the direction you need to go) s
o
> that the bracket itself can move up/down. This works only in the up/down
> direction however. The no hole brackets allow for adjustment in both the
> up/down and fore/aft direction.
>
> 3. Once you get the ailerons right, then check for flap and wing tip
> alignment. Again with the ailerons locked in the trail position, adjust
> each flap trailing edge to align with the aileron when the flap is in the
> full up position. This may require you to reposition the fuselage flap
> stop. Considering the moment arm on the wingtips, even a small misalignm
ent
> can create a roll tendency. During construction the wingtip trailing edg
e
> alignment is possible as you have some control on mounting (a good reason
to
> delay wingtip mounting until after you complete the above steps on
> rigging). If the wingtip is already mounted, you can still fix the trail
ing
> edge by cutting along the trailing edge aft seam to separate the aft wing
tip
> top/bottom halves. Once separated they can be adjusted to align with the
> aileron trailing edge, then glassed back together.
>
>
> Once you do all of this, fly the airplane and make minor adjustments in t
he
> left/right aileron push tubes as needed. The acid test to tell you if yo
u
> are done or not is if you have no change in roll trim with speed.
>
>
> Carl Froehlich
>
> RV-8A (525 hrs)
>
> RV-10 (systems install)
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Speedy11(at)aol.com
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 31, 2009 10:05 AM
> *To:* rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV8-List: Heavy Wings on RV-8
>
>
> Has anybody out there done something other than squeezing the trailing ed
ge
> of the light wing in order to correct a heavy wing problem? Has anyone
> discovered an aerodynamic cause for a heavy wing?
>
> I'm stumped.
>
> Stan Sutterfield
>
> Daytona Beach
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *www.aeroelectric.com*
>
> *www.buildersbooks.com*
>
> *www.homebuilthelp.com*
>
> *www.howtocrimp.com*
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> **
>
> * *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Baldwin" <jamesbaldwin(at)dc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Heavy Wings on RV-8 |
RV Guys,
Many builders of all homebuilts have experienced a heavy wing even when they
have been constructed meticulously. One common reason for many has been
traced to the fiberglass wingtip fairings. A slight mismatch is
particularly pronounced because of the obviously long moment arm. If your
problem can't be solved with a minor differential flap adjustment the
wingtips are the next place to consider. One friend made a dramatic
difference by slitting the trailing edge of one which looked a little off
and re-glassed it in a more favorable position. My RV8 is sensitive but any
wing heaviness is easily adjusted out with the aileron spring loading trim
system installed. I note however it's best if I burn out of the right tank
first. Just FYI. James Baldwin
_____
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tracy Crook
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 7:27 AM
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Heavy Wings on RV-8
I was confused for awhile too. I spent days getting the wings perfectly
matched for AOA before drilling the aft spar and still had a heavy left
wing. A minor squeezing of the right aileron trailing edge didn't help
enough. A slight adjustment of both flaps in the appropriate (opposite)
directions was effective. The change was not enough to notice any visual
misalignment of flap trailing edges with the ailerons As always, YMMV
depending on the cause of the heavy wing.
Tracy Crook
On Thu, Dec 31, 2009 at 10:04 AM, wrote:
Has anybody out there done something other than squeezing the trailing edge
of the light wing in order to correct a heavy wing problem? Has anyone
discovered an aerodynamic cause for a heavy wing?
I'm stumped.
Stan Sutterfield
Daytona Beach
_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
nk">www.howtocrimp.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
et="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Heavy Wings on RV-8 |
Excellent information from everyone. THANK YOU very much.
I'm going to the hangar right now to get to work on it.
Stan Sutterfield
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cs(at)charlesstringham.com" <cs(at)charlesstringham.com> |
| Subject: | Yet another priming question |
Hi Fellow RVers,
Does anyone have experience with Tempo zinc phosphate aerosol primer for internal
priming? Tempo's zinc chromate aerosol primer is listed in the RV-8 construction
manual as being an acceptable priming option. Apparently Tempo no longer
makes the chromate, and says that phosphate is the new equivalent. It sounded
like a great way to go, given that I can prime my parts individually with a can
primer. I tested it first on some scrap 2024 T3. I scuffed the surface with
Scotch Bright, then cleaned with MEK. Then I applied a light coat of Tempo. But,
48 hours later, I was able to remove the primer by lightly running my finger
nail over the surface; there was almost no adhesion. Did I do something wrong?
I don't need to use Alumiprep if I use Scotch Bright, do I? What about SEM
self-etching aerosol primer? Does anyone know anything about that?
Thanks, Chet Stringham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jim-bean(at)att.net |
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Adding an antenna to improve on the ground |
reception?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jim-bean(at)att.net |
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Adding an antenna to improve on the ground |
reception?
Problem: On the ground at KAWO (non-towered airport) I can't get Seattle
Center (and my IFR clearance) because of my RV-8 belly-mounted comm
antenna. (In a high wing trainer, this is not a problem.) I have a
bubble canopy--can I add an antenna within my canopy to the existing belly
antenna with
a
combiner/splitter to my comm receiver and achieve better reception on the
ground without degrading my in the air reception/transmission? Ground
plane problem with this setup? I can't easily place another antenna on
the top
fuselage. Suggestions?
Don Schmiesing
I have an antenna on my RV-8 slider which works pretty well. It is on the number
2 comm.I riveted an aluminum sheet to the aft end of the slider for a ground plane.
The
cablegoes to the front of the slider. The front of the slider is about as far in
front of theshoulder harness bracket when closed as it is in back of it when open,
so a loop
from the
slider to the bracket works well. The whip goes through the canopy with a rubber
grommet.
I have some pictures but they won't get through the list.
Jim Bean
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Loer" <stazel(at)cpros.com> |
From: stazel(at)cpros.com
I was planning to download and use TurboCAD LE to design my electrical
system, but it looks like there might be an installation problem with
Windows XP. Is this true and is there a solution? If not, is there
another free, user friendly CAD program that I could use?
Stan Loer
Grants Pass, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard McBride <rick.mcbride(at)me.com> |
Stan,
I used the ExpressSCH schematic software. You'll have to build some of the components
but it's very easy to learn and use. Their site is:
http://www.expresspcb.com/ExpressPCBHtm/Download.htm
Rick McBride
On Jan 3, 2010, at 7:24 PM, Stan Loer wrote:
> From: stazel(at)cpros.com
>
> I was planning to download and use TurboCAD LE to design my electrical system,
but it looks like there might be an installation problem with Windows XP. Is
this true and is there a solution? If not, is there another free, user friendly
CAD program that I could use?
>
> Stan Loer
> Grants Pass, OR
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heavy Wings on RV-8 |
Stan,
I am here now in DAB with my RV8 until spring. I am hangered at Spruce
Creek Airpark (7FL6). I can help you.
You may call me anytime on my cell phone 920 619 6968.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 9:04 AM
Subject: RV8-List: Heavy Wings on RV-8
Has anybody out there done something other than squeezing the trailing
edge of the light wing in order to correct a heavy wing problem? Has
anyone discovered an aerodynamic cause for a heavy wing?
I'm stumped.
Stan Sutterfield
Daytona Beach
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Colm O'Reilly" <colm.oreilly(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Yet another priming question |
I had a similar issue with using a non self-etch aerosol primer.
I would recommend alumiprep, then alodine, then the primer, the
alodine is the conversion coating that gives you better adhesion.
Alternatively, you may get good results with your scotch-briting and
then an aerosol 'self-etch' primer.
Even with scotch briting, you may want either alumi or metal prep or a
'self-etch' to take care of any traces of oil/grease on the surface.
Colm
On Jan 3, 2010, at 12:30, "cs(at)charlesstringham.com" wrote:
> >
>
> Hi Fellow RVers,
> Does anyone have experience with Tempo zinc phosphate aerosol primer
> for internal priming? Tempo's zinc chromate aerosol primer is listed
> in the RV-8 construction manual as being an acceptable priming
> option. Apparently Tempo no longer makes the chromate, and says that
> phosphate is the new equivalent. It sounded like a great way to go,
> given that I can prime my parts individually with a can primer. I
> tested it first on some scrap 2024 T3. I scuffed the surface with
> Scotch Bright, then cleaned with MEK. Then I applied a light coat of
> Tempo. But, 48 hours later, I was able to remove the primer by
> lightly running my finger nail over the surface; there was almost no
> adhesion. Did I do something wrong? I don't need to use Alumiprep
> if I use Scotch Bright, do I? What about SEM self-etching aerosol
> primer? Does anyone know anything about that?
> Thanks, Chet Stringham
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com> |
On Sun, 3 Jan 2010, Stan Loer wrote:
> I was planning to download and use TurboCAD LE to design my electrical
>system, but it looks like there might be an installation problem with
>Windows XP. Is this true and is there a solution? If not, is there
>another free, user friendly CAD program that I could use?
>
I use cadSTD, http://www.cadstd.com/ has a free and a pay version. 2D
only, but that should be fine for electrical diagrams.
Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
RV-8A 80091 moving to bigger garage: http://www.xmission.com/~bifft/plane/
1/4 Starduster II N23UT flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <jrpike(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Brake reservoirs |
Has anyone fitted the A600 individual pedal mounted brake reservoirs
from Aircraft Spruce in place of the firewall mounted reservoir? If
so, I'd love to hear from you with any service experience to support
the modification approval process we have to go through here in the
UK. Do they do the job as intended? Are there any issues with them?
How resolved? etc.
Many thanks,
Richard Pike
(finishing)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Breece Nesbitt <breece28117(at)yahoo.com> |
Stan,=0A=0AIf you can find it, get a copy of Autodesk's AutoSketch.- I've
been using Release 2.1 for years.- Its compatable with Windows XP.=0A=0A
Breece Nesbitt=0ARV-8=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom
: Stan Loer =0ATo: rv8-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Sun, Ja
nuary 3, 2010 7:24:15 PM=0ASubject: RV8-List: TurboCAD LE=0A=0A=0AFrom:-
stazel(at)cpros.com--- --- =0A-=0AI was planning to download and
use TurboCAD LE to design my electrical system, but it looks like there mi
ght be an installation problem with Windows XP.- Is this true and is ther
e a solution?- If not, is there another free, user friendly CAD program t
=========
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brake reservoirs |
| From: | donkeyvet(at)aol.com |
Richard,
I put those reservoirs on my 8 and they were easy to install and problem
free. I suppose the only issues that could arise would relate to where th
e final placement of the the pedals are in relation to the firewall. They
could possibly contact the firewall if the pedals were in the forwardmost
position and you placed the pedals leaning forward. Not the case on my pl
ane and I'm 6 ft tall. Filling the break lines from the bottom up into the
reservoirs was a little tedious using a mirror to check the levels as the
fluid filled the reservoir and getting all of the bubbles out, but presum
ably if the system is leak free it will be the last time I do that for a
while. I guess you could also overfill the reservoir to where fluid would
spill out when tilted. I guess I'm just trying to think of possible probl
ems you could encounter but actually I had no problems. All in all it wasn
't too bad and they have been trouble free. I'm glad I did it. It seems a
little more elegant than all of those plastic tubes and connections. I do
n't remember what I used to seal the threads. It might have been pro-seal
or maybe teflon tape. Hope that helps!
Dennis Flosi
El Paso, Texas
80 hours on Hobbs
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Pike <jrpike(at)btinternet.com>
Sent: Mon, Jan 4, 2010 5:00 pm
Subject: RV8-List: Brake reservoirs
Has anyone fitted the A600 individual pedal mounted brake reservoirs from
Aircraft Spruce in place of the firewall mounted reservoir? If so, I'd lo
ve to hear from you with any service experience to support the modificatio
n approval process we have to go through here in the UK. Do they do the jo
b as intended? Are there any issues with them? How resolved? etc.
Many thanks,
Richard Pike
(finishing)
========================
============
========================
============
========================
============
========================
============
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mkejrj(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Brake reservoirs |
Hi Richard,
=C2- I installed the pedal reservoirs on my RV 8 and would recommend them
to you. The advantages are an easier installation & a reduction in compexi
ty by eliminating feeder tubes,etc.
=C2- The only problem I noted was that it is very difficult to service th
e reservoirs ( add fluid ) in the 8. I solved this problem by cutting the b
aggage compartment floor above the pedals to provide access. The cut runs f
ore and aft and bisects the floor. I constructed a lap joint over the cut w
ith .032' Al. and rivited same to the starboard section of the floor. The n
ew lap joint is attached to the existing floor with 3 screws / nutplates .
The starboard floor area is easily removable and provides quick access.
=C2- One could argue that you could remove the entire baggage floor to ac
cess the area in question. In my installation I have a my Blue Mountain CPU
,with all it's associated wiring , mounted on the port side=C2- and it's
a bear to remove. On reflection I would recommend the access as defined ab
ove, even if the floor was open, since it is easily removed to access the s
ystem.
Dick Jordan
N888BZ
" Sticky Stuff "
=C2-=C2- ----- Original Message -----
From: donkeyvet @ aol .com
Sent: Tuesday, January 5, 2010 1:23:28 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Brake reservoirs
Richard,
I put those reservoirs on my 8 and they were easy to install and problem fr
ee. I suppose the only issues that could arise would relate to where the fi
nal placement of the the pedals are in relation to the firewall. They could
possibly contact the firewall if the pedals were in the forwardmost positi
on and you placed the pedals leaning forward. Not the case on my plane and
I'm 6 ft tall. Filling the break lines from the bottom up into the reservoi
rs was a little tedious using a mirror to check the levels as the fluid fil
led the reservoir and getting all of the bubbles out, but presumably if the
system is leak free it will be the last time I do that for a while. I gues
s you could also overfill the reservoir to where fluid would spill out when
tilted. I guess I'm just trying to think of possible problems you could en
counter but actually I had no problems. All in all it wasn't too bad and th
ey have been trouble free. I'm glad I did it. It seems a little more elegan
t than all of those plastic tubes and connections.=C2-I don't remember wh
at I used to seal the threads. It might have been pro-seal or maybe teflon
tape. Hope that helps!
Dennis Flosi
El Paso , Texas
80 hours on Hobbs
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Pike < jrpike @ btinternet .com>
Sent: Mon, Jan 4, 2010 5:00 pm
Subject: RV8-List: Brake reservoirs
=C2-
=C2-
Has anyone fitted the A600 individual pedal mounted brake reservoirs from A
ircraft Spruce in place of the firewall mounted reservoir? If so, I'd love
to hear from you with any service experience to support the modification ap
proval process we have to go through here in the UK. Do they do the job as
intended? Are there any issues with them? How resolved? etc.=C2-
=C2-
Many thanks,=C2-
=C2-
Richard Pike=C2-
(finishing)=C2-
=C2-
============C2-
t= _blank > http :// www . matronics .com/Navigator?RV8-List =C2-
============C2-
://forums. matronics .com =C2-
============C2-
lank> http :// www . matronics .com/contribution =C2-
============C2-
=C2-
=C2-
====
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Adding an antenna to improve on the |
ground reception?
Don et all,
Ten years ago when I finished my RV8,,I experienced similar problems. After
tryiing various different fixes, I finally gave up and got out my wallet
and bought a Dorne & Margolin high quality antenna and mounted it on the
bottom of my RV8. Well I could not believe the difference in performance
both on the ground and in the air. In the air I can transmit and receive
more than 100 miles clearly. Also the drag co-efficient is less than 1
knot.
Good luck.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: <jim-bean(at)att.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 3:55 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Re: AeroElectric-List: Adding an antenna to improve on
the ground reception?
>
>
> Problem: On the ground at KAWO (non-towered airport) I can't get Seattle
> Center (and my IFR clearance) because of my RV-8 belly-mounted comm
> antenna. (In a high wing trainer, this is not a problem.) I have a
> bubble canopy--can I add an antenna within my canopy to the existing
> belly
> antenna with
> a
> combiner/splitter to my comm receiver and achieve better reception
> on the
> ground without degrading my in the air reception/transmission?
> Ground plane problem with this setup? I can't easily place another
> antenna on
> the top
>
> fuselage. Suggestions?
>
> Don Schmiesing
> I have an antenna on my RV-8 slider which works pretty well. It is on the
> number
> 2 comm.I riveted an aluminum sheet to the aft end of the slider for a
> ground plane. The
> cablegoes to the front of the slider. The front of the slider is about as
> far in
> front of theshoulder harness bracket when closed as it is in back of it
> when open, so a loop
> from the
> slider to the bracket works well. The whip goes through the canopy with a
> rubber
> grommet.
> I have some pictures but they won't get through the list.
> Jim Bean
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Adding an antenna to improve on the |
ground reception?
Dick,
Are you referring to the Dorne & Margolin vhf com antenna P/N DM C70-1 a
straight stick antenna?
Thanks ... Jerry
>
> Don et all,
> Ten years ago when I finished my RV8,,I experienced similar problems.
> After tryiing various different fixes, I finally gave up and got out my
> wallet and bought a Dorne & Margolin high quality antenna and mounted it
> on the bottom of my RV8. Well I could not believe the difference in
> performance both on the ground and in the air. In the air I can transmit
> and receive more than 100 miles clearly. Also the drag co-efficient is
> less than 1 knot.
> Good luck.
> Dick Martin
> RV8 N233M
> the fast one
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Himsl" <vshimsl(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Dynon transducer orientation |
Hello,
I have Van's 3 port sensor manifold. It is too close to the firewall for me
to mount my Dynon fuel pressure sensor vertically. So I mounted it
horizontally. I also have erratic high fuel pressure readings generating
alarms on my Dynon D-180.
Has anyone cured the erratic readings by returning the fuel pressure sensor
to vertical?
Vince
RV-8 Flying at 22 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Gallenbach <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon transducer orientation |
Vince,=0AI have a similar arrangement for my Dynon EMS fuel pressure transd
ucer and it works fine. My OP transducer is also horizontal and both give s
table readings. =0A=0ACriig Gallenbach=0ARV8A N184CG. 90hrs=0A=0ASent from
my iPhone=0A=0AOn Jan 6, 2010, at 6:01 PM, "Vince Himsl"
wrote:=0A=0AHello,=0A=0AI have Van=99s 3 port sensor manifold. It is
too close to the firewall for me to mount my Dynon fuel pressure sensor ve
rtically. So I mounted it horizontally. I also have erratic high fuel press
ure readings generating alarms on my Dynon D-180.=0A=0A =0A=0AHas anyone cu
red the erratic readings by returning the fuel pressure sensor to vertical?
=========================0A
========0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tailgummer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon transducer orientation |
Is it possible to mount your manifold with sufficient spacers (Al stock,
washers, etc) to allow vertical mounting of your transducers?
I believe this is a common issue with transducer mounting. It seems
reasonable from a vibration standpoint that a vertical mount (hanging downward)
will help reduce the moment arm on your transducer.
John D RV 8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vincent Himsl <vshimsl(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | VDO erratic fuel pressure readings resolved |
Hello=2C
This is followup to my inquiry about erratic high fuel pressure readings on
my Dynon supplied VDO fuel pressure sender.
To recap=2C I would have normal readings for about thirty minutes then my f
uel pressure would slowly creep up to 9 or 10 psi=2C then start bouncing ar
ound tripping my warning alarms (wakes you up quick).
I do not have fuel injection but in my archive and google search came acros
s those with the same problem only with higher PSI readings.
Well=2C skipping the "I did everything perfect part"=2C the VDO fuel pressu
re sensor comes from Dynon with mounting tabs already installed. You assume
as I that these tabs are a match for the aircraft quality slide on crimps.
They apparently are not.
I removed and tossed these tabs and used a standard crimp connector instead
(one with hole in it). Fuel pressure readings are now rock solid after two
hour flight. Keep the nut and washers for use with the standard crimp thou
gh (I think they're metric) and do not tighten too much as I/you don't know
if too tight will change the sensor resistance.
In my troubleshooting odyssey I used a scope meter (yes I got that desperat
e) to determine if any electronic device save the ignition was affecting th
e signal. The signal stayed rock solid. The radio would impress a millivolt
high frequency signal across the sensor but there was no affect on the vol
tage or displayed PSI.
My take on the problem is that the tab crimp interface due to the mismatch
would become intermittent when exposed to heat and/or vibration.
I relay all this to help others avert a very long=2C frustrating search. Fr
ustrating in that most of us won't fly with erratic fuel pressure readings.
Now on to my tachometer accuracy problem.
Vinch H.
RV-8 'Flying'
N8432 - 24 hours
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsoft=92s powerful SPAM protection.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: VDO erratic fuel pressure readings resolved |
Vince,
Great sleuthing... And thanks for posting your method and result. Sometimes
it takes a million dollar test to find a $.02 problem!
Chris Stone
RV-8
Newberg, OR
-----Original Message-----
From: Vincent Himsl
Sent: Jan 18, 2010 2:21 AM
Subject: RV8-List: VDO erratic fuel pressure readings resolved
Hello,
This is followup to my inquiry about erratic high fuel pressure readings on my
Dynon supplied VDO fuel pressure sender.
To recap, I would have normal readings for about thirty minutes then my fuel pressure
would slowly creep up to 9 or 10 psi, then start bouncing around tripping
my warning alarms (wakes you up quick).
I do not have fuel injection but in my archive and google search came across those
with the same problem only with higher PSI readings.
Well, skipping the "I did everything perfect part", the VDO fuel pressure sensor
comes from Dynon with mounting tabs already installed. You assume as I that
these tabs are a match for the aircraft quality slide on crimps. They apparently
are not.
I removed and tossed these tabs and used a standard crimp connector instead (one
with hole in it). Fuel pressure readings are now rock solid after two hour flight.
Keep the nut and washers for use with the standard crimp though (I think
they're metric) and do not tighten too much as I/you don't know if too tight
will change the sensor resistance.
In my troubleshooting odyssey I used a scope meter (yes I got that desperate) to
determine if any electronic device save the ignition was affecting the signal.
The signal stayed rock solid. The radio would impress a millivolt high frequency
signal across the sensor but there was no affect on the voltage or displayed
PSI.
My take on the problem is that the tab crimp interface due to the mismatch would
become intermittent when exposed to heat and/or vibration.
I relay all this to help others avert a very long, frustrating search. Frustrating
in that most of us won't fly with erratic fuel pressure readings.
Now on to my tachometer accuracy problem.
Vinch H.
RV-8 'Flying'
N8432 - 24 hours
Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection. Sign up now.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Current Status Of Mr. RV-8... |
Hey RV'ers,
I've been a little quiet lately on the List because I've been working so hard on
the RV-8! I'm happy to report that the Engine, Interior, Wiring, Avionics,
and canopy are all complete. Basically all I've got left is some fiberglass around
the windscreen, and a few other odds and ends and its time to move it out
to the hanger for final assembly! I thought I'd share a few current pictures
just for fun.
Test flight in March...?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com Tons Of Construction Photos
Final Assembly...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Current Status Of Mr. RV-8... |
Well, you'll get there!! I've put about 2200 hours in on the RV-8 project in about
the last 18 months... I started it about mid-June of 08. Its a QB.
I've been dreaming about flying my own RV for 21 years now since I first started
the RV-4 project way back in 1988!! I was one of the youngest people to be
building an RV back then. Now, not so much... ;-)
That first flight will definitely be a very special occasion...
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com Tons Of Construction Photos
Final Assembly...
At 12:16 PM 1/22/2010 Friday, you wrote:
>--> RV7-List message posted by: Bruce Swayze
>
>Matt,
>
>I'm VERY impressed with all the interior installations. Great job!
>
>Now I realize more than ever just how much work I have ahead of me. Thanks for
the inspiration.
>
>At 09:45 PM 1/21/2010, you wrote:
>
>>Hey RV'ers,
>>
>>I've been a little quiet lately on the List because I've been working so hard
on the RV-8! I'm happy to report that the Engine, Interior, Wiring, Avionics,
and canopy are all complete. Basically all I've got left is some fiberglass
around the windscreen, and a few other odds and ends and its time to move it
out to the hanger for final assembly! I thought I'd share a few current pictures
just for fun.
>>
>>Test flight in March...?
>>
>>Matt Dralle
>>RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>>http://www.mattsrv8.com Tons Of Construction Photos
>>Final Assembly...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Rain & RV-8 Front Baggage Door (was: Current Status Of Mr. |
RV-8...)
Well, it appears to genuine, imitation brass on the outside... ;-) You make a
good point, Bill. I'm pretty sure its probably just steel inside. But it sure
does work perfect at locking the canopy!!
I'm gonna just have to not fly in the rain. I'm really worried about the front
baggage door and the fact that I've got all of the electrical system (VP-200
CU) mounted right under the door. You know, I have to question the wisdom of
cutting a huge hole in the fuselage right on top of the fuselage there. There
might as well just be a big funnel on top to guide the rain in.
What are RV-8 flyers experiences with water coming in the front baggage door?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com Tons Of Construction Photos
Final Assembly...
At 08:33 PM 1/23/2010 Saturday, you wrote:
>Matte,
>
>What are the internals of that lock made from? Being a cabinet lock, if I'm reading
it correctly, it's probably intended for Interior use...meaning it may
rust when wet. You can probably keep it lubricated enough to function but you
may end up with a rust mark down your paint job if you get into some moisture
a few times too many. Have you gone over it with a magnet?
>
>Just curious.
>
>Bill
>-4 finally moving again
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Timothy E. Cone" <tcone1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rain & RV-8 Front Baggage Door (was: Current Status Of Mr. |
RV-8...)
Matt,
When I took my -8 to OSH last year, that was a huge concern of mine. The
girl hadn't slept outside ever before, and here I was taking her to the land
of the big CBs.
My solution, while not terribly elegant, was completely effective. I used
the high quality 3M vinyl electrical tape to cover the baggage door hinge
line. That was all it took. Not a single drop of water entered, despite
quite a bit of rain.
Great work on your bird, it's truly a technological tour de force. Now
hurry up and get it done so I can invite you to get going with formation
flying http://www.rvformation.com/
Tim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2010 10:06 AM
Subject: RV8-List: Rain & RV-8 Front Baggage Door (was: Current Status Of
Mr. RV-8...)
>
> Well, it appears to genuine, imitation brass on the outside... ;-) You
> make a good point, Bill. I'm pretty sure its probably just steel inside.
> But it sure does work perfect at locking the canopy!!
>
> I'm gonna just have to not fly in the rain. I'm really worried about the
> front baggage door and the fact that I've got all of the electrical system
> (VP-200 CU) mounted right under the door. You know, I have to question
> the wisdom of cutting a huge hole in the fuselage right on top of the
> fuselage there. There might as well just be a big funnel on top to guide
> the rain in.
>
> What are RV-8 flyers experiences with water coming in the front baggage
> door?
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com Tons Of Construction Photos
> Final Assembly...
>
>
> At 08:33 PM 1/23/2010 Saturday, you wrote:
>>Matte,
>>
>>What are the internals of that lock made from? Being a cabinet lock, if
>>I'm reading it correctly, it's probably intended for Interior
>>use...meaning it may rust when wet. You can probably keep it lubricated
>>enough to function but you may end up with a rust mark down your paint job
>>if you get into some moisture a few times too many. Have you gone over it
>>with a magnet?
>>
>>Just curious.
>>
>>Bill
>>-4 finally moving again
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Rain & RV-8 Front Baggage Door (was: Current Status Of |
Mr. RV-8...)
Never had rain get in while flying. If not at home in the hanger, I use a
canopy cover that extends over the forward baggage door. No water after
sitting in the rain at Oshkosh last year.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (525 hrs)
RV-10 (systems install)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Timothy E. Cone
Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2010 1:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Rain & RV-8 Front Baggage Door (was: Current Status
Of Mr. RV-8...)
Matt,
When I took my -8 to OSH last year, that was a huge concern of mine. The
girl hadn't slept outside ever before, and here I was taking her to the land
of the big CBs.
My solution, while not terribly elegant, was completely effective. I used
the high quality 3M vinyl electrical tape to cover the baggage door hinge
line. That was all it took. Not a single drop of water entered, despite
quite a bit of rain.
Great work on your bird, it's truly a technological tour de force. Now
hurry up and get it done so I can invite you to get going with formation
flying http://www.rvformation.com/
Tim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2010 10:06 AM
Subject: RV8-List: Rain & RV-8 Front Baggage Door (was: Current Status Of
Mr. RV-8...)
>
> Well, it appears to genuine, imitation brass on the outside... ;-) You
> make a good point, Bill. I'm pretty sure its probably just steel inside.
> But it sure does work perfect at locking the canopy!!
>
> I'm gonna just have to not fly in the rain. I'm really worried about the
> front baggage door and the fact that I've got all of the electrical system
> (VP-200 CU) mounted right under the door. You know, I have to question
> the wisdom of cutting a huge hole in the fuselage right on top of the
> fuselage there. There might as well just be a big funnel on top to guide
> the rain in.
>
> What are RV-8 flyers experiences with water coming in the front baggage
> door?
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com Tons Of Construction Photos
> Final Assembly...
>
>
> At 08:33 PM 1/23/2010 Saturday, you wrote:
>>Matte,
>>
>>What are the internals of that lock made from? Being a cabinet lock, if
>>I'm reading it correctly, it's probably intended for Interior
>>use...meaning it may rust when wet. You can probably keep it lubricated
>>enough to function but you may end up with a rust mark down your paint job
>>if you get into some moisture a few times too many. Have you gone over it
>>with a magnet?
>>
>>Just curious.
>>
>>Bill
>>-4 finally moving again
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rain & RV-8 Front Baggage Door (was: Current Status Of Mr. |
RV-8...)
I have ser. no. 2 RV8 and have flown approx. 2000 hours in every kind of
weather lncluding a lot of rain etc. It sits outside at OSH and other fly
ins during rain. I have never experienced any rain leaking inside of the
front baggage compartment.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
The fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2010 12:06 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Rain & RV-8 Front Baggage Door (was: Current Status Of
Mr. RV-8...)
>
> Well, it appears to genuine, imitation brass on the outside... ;-) You
> make a good point, Bill. I'm pretty sure its probably just steel inside.
> But it sure does work perfect at locking the canopy!!
>
> I'm gonna just have to not fly in the rain. I'm really worried about the
> front baggage door and the fact that I've got all of the electrical system
> (VP-200 CU) mounted right under the door. You know, I have to question
> the wisdom of cutting a huge hole in the fuselage right on top of the
> fuselage there. There might as well just be a big funnel on top to guide
> the rain in.
>
> What are RV-8 flyers experiences with water coming in the front baggage
> door?
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com Tons Of Construction Photos
> Final Assembly...
>
>
> At 08:33 PM 1/23/2010 Saturday, you wrote:
>>Matte,
>>
>>What are the internals of that lock made from? Being a cabinet lock, if
>>I'm reading it correctly, it's probably intended for Interior
>>use...meaning it may rust when wet. You can probably keep it lubricated
>>enough to function but you may end up with a rust mark down your paint job
>>if you get into some moisture a few times too many. Have you gone over it
>>with a magnet?
>>
>>Just curious.
>>
>>Bill
>>-4 finally moving again
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | In-flight Entertainment & LCD Screens... |
Dear listers,
I've received quite a few emails asking about my entertainment installation in
the RV-8 project and specifically the components I used and how I installed them.
The links and text below documents the selection and process pretty well
and so I thought I'd pass it along to the Lists.
The front headrest with the monitor in it is the standard headrest I got from Classic
Aero for use with the Aviator seats. I made some serious modifications
to it however, and then sent it back to them for leather upholstering. It came
out really nice and isn't too heavy. I documented the whole process in my
blog in extreme detail here:
Initial installation using the white plastic shells (10 logs):
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=73410&row=91
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=73411&row=90
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=73412&row=89
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=73413&row=88
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=73414&row=87
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=73415&row=86
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=73415&row=86
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=73416&row=85
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=73417&row=84
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=73418&row=83
Installation redo with new and significantly improved black shells (5 logs):
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=77846&row=48
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=77847&row=47
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=77848&row=46
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=77849&row=45
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=77850&row=44
Final installation with Leather upholstery completed (4 logs):
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=4395&log=86106&row=5
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=4395&log=86107&row=4
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2973&log'427&row=2
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2973&log'427&row=2
On the main instrument panel, I'm using a Kenwood DNX8120 entertainment system
with a 7" LCD touch screen. The DNX8120 has been replaced by the DNX9140 which
is very similar:
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=67178&row=159
http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entertainment/eXcelon/Mobile_Video_n_Navigation/DNX9140
The rear screen is slaved to the DNX8120 though an AV controller that comes with
the screen. The rear LCD screen is also 7", but not a touch screen. Its a
Kenwood model number LZ-702IR:
http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entertainment/Mobile_Video_n_Navigation/Mobile_Video/LZ-702IR
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7134_Kenwood+LZ-702IR.html
The rear view cam is also a Kenwood unit and integrates with the DNX very nicely:
http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entertainment/eXcelon/Mobile_Video_n_Navigation/CCD-2000
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com
Finishing up...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Windscreen Fairing First Look! |
Dear Listers,
I've been working hard on the front, fixed fairing around the windscreen this week.
Literally, I've been dreading this job more than ANY other on this project.
Tonight I sanded though the first layer of electrical tape and in one little
spot the second layer started to come up, so I had to pull all of the electrical
tape off and so I was able to check out the actual fiberglass fairing after
two days of sanding! Yahoo! It came out nearly perfect!! Not bad for creating
a fairing out of nothing! The process described in the manual really
does work amazingly well. I followed it to the tee up to this point.
Now I have to retape everything, add a layer of resin mixed with filler, then final
sand the whole thing. Should be pretty straight forward, but a couple of
days worth of work.
Almost done...
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Front & Back Wheel Pant Fit... |
Dear Listers,
I'm adding the little fairings between the main wheel pants and the gear leg today.
I'm using the premade fairing from Farings Etc and installation looks pretty
straightforward.
But I'm really on the fence about the main wheel pants and specifically the front-to-back
fit. I have the gap all the way around between the two perfect. No
problems there.
The issue is with the unevenness of the thickness of the front to back. The rear
part has the flange that holds the plate nuts. The shoulder is a little bit
higher in some spots than the front part and a little be lower in other spots.
If it was higher all the way around, it would be a no-brainer to just sand
it down. But the high/low is problematic. The low spots are generally caused
by the screws and the high spots between the screws.
Yeah, I could fill and sand and fill and sand so that *maybe* I would have a "perfect"
transition front to back. But maybe not. I'm thinking its going to be
a huge amount of work that, in the end, isn't really going to look any different
once its painted.
Should I just embrace the transition as-is and move on? Or spend a couple of weeks
trying to fill and sand in hopes of a better look?
Attached are a couple of pics of what it looks like currently.
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
Hey RV8ers,
Today I flew for the first time in rain. A number of issues arose.
I had some pitting of the fiberglass parts
I had some erosion of paint on the prop
I had water blowing in along the canopy skirt
After the flight I found water pooled in the bottom of the fuselage
under the floor
Question: Has anyone had water accumulate inside the fuselage under the
floors?
If so, what was the source of the water? Did it invade at the main gear
upper leg fairings?
Thanks,
Stan Sutterfield
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rainy Flying |
Only problem I have had with rain is the pooling inside on the floor. I hear this
is common just add a drain hole or two.
Scott
RV-8a
________________________________
From: "Speedy11(at)aol.com" <Speedy11(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sat, January 30, 2010 5:01:27 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Rainy Flying
Hey RV8ers,
Today I flew for the first time in rain. A number of issues
arose.
I had some pitting of the fiberglass parts
I had some erosion of paint on the prop
I had water blowing in along the canopy skirt
After the flight I found water pooled in the bottom
of the fuselage under the floor
Question: Has anyone had water accumulate inside the fuselage under
the floors?
If so, what was the source of the water? Did it invade at the main
gear upper leg fairings?
Thanks,
Stan Sutterfield
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Front & Back Wheel Pant Fit... |
Had the same when doing mine a few years ago. Spent about four days filling
and sanding for that right fit. Looking at them now it was worth the effort.
Hang in there Matt, my guess is you'll like the outcome.
Yes building an OBAM aircraft is "a huge amount of work" but you knew that
when you signed on.
I'm Sure you'll be proud of the extra effort.
Keep at it, not far now,
Jim in Kelowna RV6-A C-GIIG for sale (No license)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 3:31 PM
Subject: RV-List: Front & Back Wheel Pant Fit...
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> I'm adding the little fairings between the main wheel pants and the gear
> leg today. I'm using the premade fairing from Farings Etc and
> installation looks pretty straightforward.
>
> But I'm really on the fence about the main wheel pants and specifically
> the front-to-back fit. I have the gap all the way around between the two
> perfect. No problems there.
>
> The issue is with the unevenness of the thickness of the front to back.
> The rear part has the flange that holds the plate nuts. The shoulder is a
> little bit higher in some spots than the front part and a little be lower
> in other spots. If it was higher all the way around, it would be a
> no-brainer to just sand it down. But the high/low is problematic. The
> low spots are generally caused by the screws and the high spots between
> the screws.
>
> Yeah, I could fill and sand and fill and sand so that *maybe* I would have
> a "perfect" transition front to back. But maybe not. I'm thinking its
> going to be a huge amount of work that, in the end, isn't really going to
> look any different once its painted.
>
> Should I just embrace the transition as-is and move on? Or spend a couple
> of weeks trying to fill and sand in hopes of a better look?
>
> Attached are a couple of pics of what it looks like currently.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
>
>
> E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (7.0.0.514)
> Database version: 6.14250
> http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
>
E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (7.0.0.514)
Database version: 6.14250
http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Windscreen Fairing First Look! |
| From: | "Kopp, Kenneth G CDR HSM-70, N0 Exec Staff" <kenneth.kopp(at)navy.mil> |
Hey Matt - the fairing looks great.
I'm assuming you lay it up with tape under so you can remove it and clean up both
the top and bottom edges then glue in place on the fuse and windscreen? Am
I correct?
Thanks,
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 22:52
Subject: RV8-List: Windscreen Fairing First Look!
Dear Listers,
I've been working hard on the front, fixed fairing around the windscreen this week.
Literally, I've been dreading this job more than ANY other on this project.
Tonight I sanded though the first layer of electrical tape and in one little
spot the second layer started to come up, so I had to pull all of the electrical
tape off and so I was able to check out the actual fiberglass fairing after
two days of sanding! Yahoo! It came out nearly perfect!! Not bad for creating
a fairing out of nothing! The process described in the manual really
does work amazingly well. I followed it to the tee up to this point.
Now I have to retape everything, add a layer of resin mixed with filler, then final
sand the whole thing. Should be pretty straight forward, but a couple of
days worth of work.
Almost done...
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Windscreen Fairing First Look! |
Hi Ken,
No, per the instructions, the fairing is bonded right to the plexi and the top
of the fuselage. The multi-layer electrical tape trick gives you a really nice
edge on the plexi, and you sand the fuselage edge down to nothing for a feathered
edge. Using this technique, it would seem that you can come up with a much
thinner and lighter fairing. If it had to be removable, it would have to
be 4 or 5 times thicker particularly at the edges. I think.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
At 07:33 AM 1/31/2010 Sunday, you wrote:
>Hey Matt - the fairing looks great.
>
>I'm assuming you lay it up with tape under so you can remove it and clean up both
the top and bottom edges then glue in place on the fuse and windscreen? Am
I correct?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Ken
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
>Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 22:52
>Subject: RV8-List: Windscreen Fairing First Look!
>
>
>Dear Listers,
>
>I've been working hard on the front, fixed fairing around the windscreen this
week. Literally, I've been dreading this job more than ANY other on this project.
Tonight I sanded though the first layer of electrical tape and in one little
spot the second layer started to come up, so I had to pull all of the electrical
tape off and so I was able to check out the actual fiberglass fairing
after two days of sanding! Yahoo! It came out nearly perfect!! Not bad for
creating a fairing out of nothing! The process described in the manual really
does work amazingly well. I followed it to the tee up to this point.
>
>Now I have to retape everything, add a layer of resin mixed with filler, then
final sand the whole thing. Should be pretty straight forward, but a couple of
days worth of work.
>
>Almost done...
>
>Matt Dralle
>RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rainy Flying |
Where exactly under the floor?
Matt
RV-8
At 06:28 PM 1/30/2010 Saturday, you wrote:
>Only problem I have had with rain is the pooling inside on the floor. I hear this
is common just add a drain hole or two.
>
>Scott
>RV-8a
>
>
>From: "Speedy11(at)aol.com" <Speedy11(at)aol.com>
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Sent: Sat, January 30, 2010 5:01:27 PM
>Subject: RV8-List: Rainy Flying
>
>Hey RV8ers,
>Today I flew for the first time in rain. A number of issues arose.
> I had some pitting of the fiberglass parts
> I had some erosion of paint on the prop
> I had water blowing in along the canopy skirt
> After the flight I found water pooled in the bottom of the fuselage under
the floor
>Question: Has anyone had water accumulate inside the fuselage under the floors?
>If so, what was the source of the water? Did it invade at the main gear upper
leg fairings?
>Thanks,
>Stan Sutterfield
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rainy Flying |
Not sure where it comes in, some say at the rear spar attach. I just put two 1/8
drain holes on the floor aft of the rear stick just in front of the bulk head
there.
Scott
RV-8a
________________________________
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Sun, January 31, 2010 10:19:43 AM
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Rainy Flying
Where exactly under the floor?
Matt
RV-8
At 06:28 PM 1/30/2010 Saturday, you wrote:
>Only problem I have had with rain is the pooling inside on the floor. I hear this
is common just add a drain hole or two.
>
>Scott
>RV-8a
>
>
>From: "Speedy11(at)aol.com" <Speedy11(at)aol.com>
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Sent: Sat, January 30, 2010 5:01:27 PM
>Subject: RV8-List: Rainy Flying
>
>Hey RV8ers,
>Today I flew for the first time in rain. A number of issues arose.
> I had some pitting of the fiberglass parts
> I had some erosion of paint on the prop
> I had water blowing in along the canopy skirt
> After the flight I found water pooled in the bottom of the fuselage under
the floor
>Question: Has anyone had water accumulate inside the fuselage under the floors?
>If so, what was the source of the water? Did it invade at the main gear upper
leg fairings?
>Thanks,
>Stan Sutterfield
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Grajek <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Windscreen Fairing First Look! |
Looks really nice Matt:
Isint the fairing supposed to go OVER the canopy skirt though? They may hav
e changed it since my first 8. I am getting close to doing this as well. Go
t any good pics of the canopy fit up and cut?
Did you bond your canopy or screws?
Thanks
AL Grajek
> Date: Fri=2C 29 Jan 2010 19:51:40 -0800
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com=3B rv8-list(at)matronics.com=3B rv7-list@matronics
.com
> From: dralle(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Windscreen Fairing First Look!
>
>
> Dear Listers=2C
>
> I've been working hard on the front=2C fixed fairing around the windscree
n this week. Literally=2C I've been dreading this job more than ANY other o
n this project. Tonight I sanded though the first layer of electrical tape
and in one little spot the second layer started to come up=2C so I had to p
ull all of the electrical tape off and so I was able to check out the actua
l fiberglass fairing after two days of sanding! Yahoo! It came out nearly p
erfect!! Not bad for creating a fairing out of nothing! The process describ
ed in the manual really does work amazingly well. I followed it to the tee
up to this point.
>
> Now I have to retape everything=2C add a layer of resin mixed with filler
=2C then final sand the whole thing. Should be pretty straight forward=2C b
ut a couple of days worth of work.
>
> Almost done...
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Windscreen Fairing First Look! |
Thanks, Al!
I went a little different way on the windscreen. I fashioned a .032 metal bezel
up and over the top of the roll bar. Its about 2.5" wide. It worked out really
nice because I was able to powder coat the underside of it before I assembled
everything. Plus, I didn't have to get all of the sanding dust inside the
plane! So, the fiberglass fairing only has to go around the front of the windscreen
and then butt up against the metal fairing. Much easier. I'm not even
sure how I would have done a fiberglass lay up over the top of the roll bar.
The canopy skirts fit underneath the metal bezel that goes over the roll bar.
So does the first 3/4" of the canopy too.
As far as the sliding canopy, I opted to use AN rivnuts and #6 screws all the way
around. Worked good. Canopy replacement in the future should be pretty easy
- not that I want to, mind you. But, since I cracked the first one - just
as it was finished - I'm for anything that will ease the future removal/installation
since the screws made installing the second on much easier.
I've attached a few pictures for your viewing pleasure...
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
At 04:57 PM 1/31/2010 Sunday, you wrote:
>Looks really nice Matt:
>Isint the fairing supposed to go OVER the canopy skirt though? They may have changed
it since my first 8. I am getting close to doing this as well. Got any
good pics of the canopy fit up and cut?
>Did you bond your canopy or screws?
>Thanks
>AL Grajek
>
>> Date: Fri, 29 Jan 2010 19:51:40 -0800
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; rv8-list(at)matronics.com; rv7-list(at)matronics.com
>> From: dralle(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV8-List: Windscreen Fairing First Look!
>>
>>
>> Dear Listers,
>>
>> I've been working hard on the front, fixed fairing around the windscreen this
week. Literally, I've been dreading this job more than ANY other on this project.
Tonight I sanded though the first layer of electrical tape and in one little
spot the second layer started to come up, so I had to pull all of the electrical
tape off and so I was able to check out the actual fiberglass fairing
after two days of sanding! Yahoo! It came out nearly perfect!! Not bad for creating
a fairing out of nothing! The process described in the manual really does
work amazingly well. I followed it to the tee up to this point.
>>
>> Now I have to retape everything, add a layer of resin mixed with filler, then
final sand the whole thing. Should be pretty straight forward, but a couple
of days worth of work.
>>
>> Almost done...
>>
>> Matt Dralle
>> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Canopy Install (Part 1) |
At 04:57 PM 1/31/2010 Sunday, you wrote:
>Looks really nice Matt:
>Isint the fairing supposed to go OVER the canopy skirt though? They may have changed
it since my first 8. I am getting close to doing this as well. Got any
good pics of the canopy fit up and cut?
>Did you bond your canopy or screws?
>Thanks
>AL Grajek
Here are a few (!) pictures of the canopy installation (second time around).
Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Canopy Install (Part 2) |
At 04:57 PM 1/31/2010 Sunday, you wrote:
>Looks really nice Matt:
>Isint the fairing supposed to go OVER the canopy skirt though? They may have changed
it since my first 8. I am getting close to doing this as well. Got any
good pics of the canopy fit up and cut?
>Did you bond your canopy or screws?
>Thanks
>AL Grajek
Here are a few (!) pictures of the canopy installation (second time around).
Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
I might have posted these before, but here are a few pictures of the canopy lock
installation I came up with for the RV-8. Works really well. The extended
barrel also makes a really nice handle for opening the canopy.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Grajek <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Canopy Install (Part 1) |
Thanks for all the great photos Matt!
They will be a big help. How do you decide HOW MUCH to trim at the front. I
see your line is about an inch wide. I was thinking of just trimming littl
e by little till it fit( lot of work).
Al
> Date: Sun=2C 31 Jan 2010 17:32:19 -0800
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> From: dralle(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV8-List: Canopy Install (Part 1)
>
> At 04:57 PM 1/31/2010 Sunday=2C you wrote:
> >Looks really nice Matt:
> >Isint the fairing supposed to go OVER the canopy skirt though? They may
have changed it since my first 8. I am getting close to doing this as well.
Got any good pics of the canopy fit up and cut?
> >Did you bond your canopy or screws?
> >Thanks
> >AL Grajek
>
> Here are a few (!) pictures of the canopy installation (second time aroun
d).
>
> Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Grajek <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Windscreen Fairing First Look! |
Very nice Job Matt!
You should sell those bezels. I would buy one. I may try the same thing. lo
oks relatively easy if I can find the alum strip around here. Who did your
seats?
Al
> Date: Sun=2C 31 Jan 2010 17:14:30 -0800
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> From: dralle(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV8-List: Windscreen Fairing First Look!
>
> Thanks=2C Al!
>
> I went a little different way on the windscreen. I fashioned a .032 metal
bezel up and over the top of the roll bar. Its about 2.5" wide. It worked
out really nice because I was able to powder coat the underside of it befor
e I assembled everything. Plus=2C I didn't have to get all of the sanding d
ust inside the plane! So=2C the fiberglass fairing only has to go around th
e front of the windscreen and then butt up against the metal fairing. Much
easier. I'm not even sure how I would have done a fiberglass lay up over th
e top of the roll bar. The canopy skirts fit underneath the metal bezel tha
t goes over the roll bar. So does the first 3/4" of the canopy too.
>
> As far as the sliding canopy=2C I opted to use AN rivnuts and #6 screws a
ll the way around. Worked good. Canopy replacement in the future should be
pretty easy - not that I want to=2C mind you. But=2C since I cracked the fi
rst one - just as it was finished - I'm for anything that will ease the fut
ure removal/installation since the screws made installing the second on muc
h easier.
>
> I've attached a few pictures for your viewing pleasure...
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
>
>
> At 04:57 PM 1/31/2010 Sunday=2C you wrote:
> >Looks really nice Matt:
> >Isint the fairing supposed to go OVER the canopy skirt though? They may
have changed it since my first 8. I am getting close to doing this as well.
Got any good pics of the canopy fit up and cut?
> >Did you bond your canopy or screws?
> >Thanks
> >AL Grajek
> >
> >> Date: Fri=2C 29 Jan 2010 19:51:40 -0800
> >> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com=3B rv8-list(at)matronics.com=3B rv7-list@matron
ics.com
> >> From: dralle(at)matronics.com
> >> Subject: RV8-List: Windscreen Fairing First Look!
> >>
> >>
> >> Dear Listers=2C
> >>
> >> I've been working hard on the front=2C fixed fairing around the windsc
reen this week. Literally=2C I've been dreading this job more than ANY othe
r on this project. Tonight I sanded though the first layer of electrical ta
pe and in one little spot the second layer started to come up=2C so I had t
o pull all of the electrical tape off and so I was able to check out the ac
tual fiberglass fairing after two days of sanding! Yahoo! It came out nearl
y perfect!! Not bad for creating a fairing out of nothing! The process desc
ribed in the manual really does work amazingly well. I followed it to the t
ee up to this point.
> >>
> >> Now I have to retape everything=2C add a layer of resin mixed with fil
ler=2C then final sand the whole thing. Should be pretty straight forward
=2C but a couple of days worth of work.
> >>
> >> Almost done...
> >>
> >> Matt Dralle
> >> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> >> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
>
>
>
> Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Front & Back Wheel Pant Fit... |
Matt...
Did the fill and sand using micro-ballons and epoxy. Went very fast. Actually
more time in waiting for epoxy to fully cure... winter in Oregon and 50 shop
temp. Bonded the fairings to the pants, fore and aft. Added a couple of layers
of 6 oz cloth and epoxy. Filled and coarse sanded with 60 grit closed coat
3M paper. Successively filled and sanded... (Similar to the windscreen fairing).
Probably three hours sanding total time before prime.
Chris Stone
RV-8 newberg, OR
-----Original Message-----
>From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
>Sent: Jan 30, 2010 6:31 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv7-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: Front & Back Wheel Pant Fit...
>
>
>Dear Listers,
>
>I'm adding the little fairings between the main wheel pants and the gear leg today.
I'm using the premade fairing from Farings Etc and installation looks pretty
straightforward.
>
>But I'm really on the fence about the main wheel pants and specifically the front-to-back
fit. I have the gap all the way around between the two perfect.
No problems there.
>
>The issue is with the unevenness of the thickness of the front to back. The rear
part has the flange that holds the plate nuts. The shoulder is a little bit
higher in some spots than the front part and a little be lower in other spots.
If it was higher all the way around, it would be a no-brainer to just sand
it down. But the high/low is problematic. The low spots are generally caused
by the screws and the high spots between the screws.
>
>Yeah, I could fill and sand and fill and sand so that *maybe* I would have a "perfect"
transition front to back. But maybe not. I'm thinking its going to
be a huge amount of work that, in the end, isn't really going to look any different
once its painted.
>
>Should I just embrace the transition as-is and move on? Or spend a couple of
weeks trying to fill and sand in hopes of a better look?
>
>Attached are a couple of pics of what it looks like currently.
>
>Thanks!
>
>Matt Dralle
>RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rainy Flying |
Scott,
Do you know the source of the water? Where is it getting in?
Stan
Only problem I have had with rain is the pooling inside on the floor. I
hear this
is common just add a drain hole or two.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Canopy Install (Part 1) |
Well, on the second canopy I kind of cheated. I just used the first one and measured
all the way round plus about .5". You're right, though, in that basically
you just start cutting a little bit at a time until you finally get to the
right amount. I think I took the canopy on/off about 8 times with 8 cuts to
finally get to the right length. Here's my log entry on the original canopy fitting
(10 log entries) starting here:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2973&log=67122&row=254
Definitely use the AN version of those rivnuts, though. ACS has them. Those Stanley
versions I show in Part 08 are shit.
Matt
At 07:34 AM 2/1/2010 Monday, you wrote:
>Thanks for all the great photos Matt!
>They will be a big help. How do you decide HOW MUCH to trim at the front. I see
your line is about an inch wide. I was thinking of just trimming little by little
till it fit( lot of work).
>Al
>
>> Date: Sun, 31 Jan 2010 17:32:19 -0800
>> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>> From: dralle(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RE: RV8-List: Canopy Install (Part 1)
>>
>> At 04:57 PM 1/31/2010 Sunday, you wrote:
>> >Looks really nice Matt:
>> >Isint the fairing supposed to go OVER the canopy skirt though? They may have
changed it since my first 8. I am getting close to doing this as well. Got any
good pics of the canopy fit up and cut?
>> >Did you bond your canopy or screws?
>> >Thanks
>> >AL Grajek
>>
>> Here are a few (!) pictures of the canopy installation (second time around).
>>
>> Matt
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rainy Flying |
I dont know for sure but it has been mentioned here that its the rear spar attach
area.
Scott
RV-8a
________________________________
From: "Speedy11(at)aol.com" <Speedy11(at)aol.com>
Sent: Mon, February 1, 2010 4:56:14 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Re: Rainy Flying
Scott,
Do you know the source of the water? Where is it getting in?
Stan
Only
> problem I have had with rain is the pooling inside on the floor. I hear
> this
>is common just add a drain hole or two.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rainy Flying |
Scott et al,
I live in the north in Wisconsin (temporarily in Florida at Spruce Creek
Airpark near Daytona) . Nine years ago when I finished my RV8 I noticed
that cold air and water entered at the rear of the canopy and moved
forward. I also noticed that air exited on both sides of the canopy
approximately at the point where the pilots shoulders is. I was able to
fix this by installing a "bead type" weatherstrip (it looks like a 3/8"
vinyl tube with a tab on it for attachment) Glue this on to the rear
portion of the canopy from the pilot shoulder all of the way around the
rear of the canopy. There are several types of this insulation aand you
may have to go to several hardware stores to find the type that suits
your reqquirement (don't waste your time at Home Depot etc). If you
live in the south and can't find it, I own a hardware store in wisconsin
and can supply it. If you want to discuss this, call me at 920 619 6968
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: scott bilinski
To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 7:34 AM
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Re: Rainy Flying
I dont know for sure but it has been mentioned here that its the rear
spar attach area.
Scott
RV-8a
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: "Speedy11(at)aol.com" <Speedy11(at)aol.com>
To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Mon, February 1, 2010 4:56:14 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Re: Rainy Flying
Scott,
Do you know the source of the water? Where is it getting in?
Stan
Only problem I have had with rain is the pooling inside on the
floor. I hear this
is common just add a drain hole or two.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Grajek <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Vans Firewall fwd and Percision Airmotive Fuel Injection |
I was wondering if anyone knows if the standard hoses/cables in the FFW kit
for the RV8 is compatible withe the Silverhawk XP fuel injection servo(hor
izintal draft). I dont want to order it and have to send a bunch of stuff b
ack.
Thanks!
AL Grajek
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vincent Himsl <vshimsl(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Oil Change at 25 hours |
Hello=2C
My ascendancy is proving harder than I thought. Anyway=2C I am at the 27 ho
ur mark and I am removing the straight mineral oil from my Aerosport 180 an
d wish to know if I can punt on replacing the oil filter til the next oil c
hange?
I bought the special quick drain valves and after spilling oil all over the
place am glad I did. The next oil change should be a lot less messy.
I am slowly starting to trust the RV-8. My landings are getting better and
I am less terrified on final. In a curious way=2C the responsiveness breed
s confidence. I will post more on the 'real' feelings at this point in my R
V- 8 odyssey in another post.
Regards=2C
Vince H.
RV-8 N8432 (27 hours)
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Free=2C trusted and rich email service.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oil Change at 25 hours |
| From: | edward Clegg <edwclg(at)gmail.com> |
Vince,
In the scheme of things the price of the filter is negligible.
Best,
Ed
N542E 170 hours RV 8
On Tue, Feb 2, 2010 at 11:11 PM, Vincent Himsl wrote:
> Hello,
> My ascendancy is proving harder than I thought. Anyway, I am at the 27 hour
> mark and I am removing the straight mineral oil from my Aerosport 180 and
> wish to know if I can punt on replacing the oil filter til the next oil
> change?
>
> I bought the special quick drain valves and after spilling oil all over the
> place am glad I did. The next oil change should be a lot less messy.
>
> I am slowly starting to trust the RV-8. My landings are getting better and
> I am less terrified on final. In a curious way, the responsiveness breeds
> confidence. I will post more on the 'real' feelings at this point in my RV-
> 8 odyssey in another post.
>
> Regards,
> Vince H.
> RV-8 N8432 (27 hours)
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Change at 25 hours |
Vince,
I'm at 53 hours and I know the feelings. My RV is flying great, but a
number of issues will arise at the 45 hour mark. I checked all hose fittings,
spark plugs, belts, wires, spar bolts, etc., at about the 10 hour point.
But, surprisingly, there were a number of things like cables needing a
standoff, cowling rubbing, screws pulling through fiberglass - things like that
- that showed up at about 40-45 hours.
I thought that by now I'd know the airplane pretty well, but I learn
something new each time I fly. It makes the flying more fun.
The oil quick drain is money well spent. It's hard to imagine anyone
doing without one. I didn't switch from mineral oil until 50 hours with oil
changes at 10 hours and 25 hours. Mine is an ADC oil filter which is
cleanable, but I would change the oil filter when switching from mineral oil to
regular oil. The engine gurus told me to switch oil types when the oil
consumption dropped. In my case, oil consumption was never high and never
dropped. I'm using VERY little oil - maybe a half quart every 10-12 hours. I'm
now using Exxon Elite which is a semi-synthetic. Okay - I've got my flame
suit on - I know I'm going to get lots of nasty remarks from everyone on
the net about using synthetic oil in an airplane. We'll know in 20 years if
it was a mistake.
Have you contacted Aerosport about switching to regular oil at 25 hours and
not changing the filter? Most of the things I've read - including the
Lycoming manual - recommend mineral oil until 50 hours and filter change with
the oil change. I didn't drain the mineral oil out of the oil cooler when
I did the oil switch to regular, so I've got a bit of mineral mixed in with
the regular oil. Maybe not a good idea, but it will be eliminated over
time.
Regards,
Stan Sutterfield
_www.rv-8a.net_ (http://www.rv-8a.net)
Hello=2C
My ascendancy is proving harder than I thought. Anyway=2C I am at the 27 ho
ur mark and I am removing the straight mineral oil from my Aerosport 180 an
d wish to know if I can punt on replacing the oil filter til the next oil c
hange?
I bought the special quick drain valves and after spilling oil all over the
place am glad I did. The next oil change should be a lot less messy.
I am slowly starting to trust the RV-8. My landings are getting better and
I am less terrified on final. In a curious way=2C the responsiveness breed
s confidence. I will post more on the 'real' feelings at this point in my R
V- 8 odyssey in another post.
Regards=2C
Vince H.
RV-8 N8432 (27 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wally Allington" <RV8(at)summergrove.net> |
| Subject: | Oil Change at 25 hours |
Vince,
I agree with Ed. In fact I treat oil/filter as one. Why skimp? Also am
curious if your engine is fully broken in at 27 hours. I too have a 180
Aerosport engine with 120 hours but it took about 60 hours to break in
properly - until all engine indications were even and stabilized. My first
oil change was replacing the mineral oil with mineral oil. Love the
engine.
N732W
Wally Allington
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of edward Clegg
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 8:33 AM
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Oil Change at 25 hours
Vince,
In the scheme of things the price of the filter is negligible.
Best,
Ed
N542E 170 hours RV 8
On Tue, Feb 2, 2010 at 11:11 PM, Vincent Himsl wrote:
Hello,
My ascendancy is proving harder than I thought. Anyway, I am at the 27 hour
mark and I am removing the straight mineral oil from my Aerosport 180 and
wish to know if I can punt on replacing the oil filter til the next oil
change?
I bought the special quick drain valves and after spilling oil all over the
place am glad I did. The next oil change should be a lot less messy.
I am slowly starting to trust the RV-8. My landings are getting better and I
am less terrified on final. In a curious way, the responsiveness breeds
confidence. I will post more on the 'real' feelings at this point in my RV-
8 odyssey in another post.
Regards,
Vince H.
RV-8 N8432 (27 hours)
_____
Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. Get it
et="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neal George" <n8zg(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | FS: Bose Aviation Headset X |
Listers -
I have accumulated too many headsets.
This one needs a new home.
Like-new condition.
$850, shipped CONUS.
Neal E. George
2023 Everglades Drive
Navarre, FL 32566
H - 850-515-0640
C - 850-218-4838
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Some RV-8 Stick/Dual Time... |
Dear Listers,
I would like to get some dual time in in an RV-8 over the next few months. Is
there anyone on the List kind of near the Livermore California airport with an
RV-8 (taildragger) that has dual controls including rudder peddles and preferably
a CS prop? With my RV-8 test flight quickly approaching, I would like to
get 5-10 hours in an RV-8 before I go to get insurance and go for that first
flight. I'm current, have over 100 hours in tailwheels, and carry aircraft renters
insurance.
I would reimburse for gas and lunches! :-)
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's RV-8 Builders Log
Finishing Up...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cs(at)charlesstringham.com" <cs(at)charlesstringham.com> |
| Subject: | Has anyone ever seen a... |
Hi Everyone,
Yesterday, I had the opportunity to practice cursing like a really bad golfer.
Every time I try using a flat rivet set on a convex surface like the leading edge
of horizontal stabilizer, two things follow: liberal use of language that
I must admit really does make me feel better, and yet another call to Vans for
a replacement skin. No matter how careful I am, the rivet set always seems to
walk just far enough off the flush rivet head to create a nice little smile.
Yes, I have hammered a few of them out, and yes, I am aware of just how anal retentive
I am.
So here's the question. Has anyone ever seen a tool that would prevent the rivet
set from walking across the skin? I am thinking of a ring made of rubber with
an inside diameter about 1/2 inch greater than the outside diameter of the rivet
set. It would have a flange that you could hold on the skin of the flight
surface. The rivet would be in the center of the ring, and the set could fit
into the ring in a way such that the set could not wander off the rivet. I know
there are sets that have a rubber ring affixed to the outer edge that oscillate
up and down with the set, but the one I am thinking of would be held to the
aircraft skin and not oscillate with the set. Has anyone ever seen something
of this type? A machinist friend offered to make one for me, but I would feel
stupid if such a tool already exists.
Thanks, Chet Stringham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Has anyone ever seen a... |
Do you mean a flush set like these:
http://www.averytools.com/pc-659-91-flush-rivet-set-with-guard-34-dia-face.aspx
Very, very common, although personally I like larger flush sets with no rubber
ring on them for lighter gauge metal/small rivets and narrow diameter sets for
larger rivets.
Cheers,
Stein
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of cs(at)charlesstringham.com
Sent: Sunday, February 07, 2010 3:33 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Has anyone ever seen a...
Hi Everyone,
Yesterday, I had the opportunity to practice cursing like a really bad golfer.
Every time I try using a flat rivet set on a convex surface like the leading edge
of horizontal stabilizer, two things follow: liberal use of language that
I must admit really does make me feel better, and yet another call to Vans for
a replacement skin. No matter how careful I am, the rivet set always seems to
walk just far enough off the flush rivet head to create a nice little smile.
Yes, I have hammered a few of them out, and yes, I am aware of just how anal retentive
I am.
So here's the question. Has anyone ever seen a tool that would prevent the rivet
set from walking across the skin? I am thinking of a ring made of rubber with
an inside diameter about 1/2 inch greater than the outside diameter of the rivet
set. It would have a flange that you could hold on the skin of the flight
surface. The rivet would be in the center of the ring, and the set could fit
into the ring in a way such that the set could not wander off the rivet. I know
there are sets that have a rubber ring affixed to the outer edge that oscillate
up and down with the set, but the one I am thinking of would be held to the
aircraft skin and not oscillate with the set. Has anyone ever seen something
of this type? A machinist friend offered to make one for me, but I would feel
stupid if such a tool already exists.
Thanks, Chet Stringham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Has anyone ever seen a... |
>http://www.averytools.com/pc-659-91-flush-rivet-set-with-guard-34-dia-face.aspx
I used this type of flush head set with built in rubber foot exclusively on the
RV-4 and RV-8 with near perfect results. Highly recommend.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
Fiberglass Windsceen Bezel...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Has anyone ever seen a... |
Three things:
1. If you are not using a swivel head rivet set for everything, stop. Here is the one from Cleaveland Tools: http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RSMS75
2. Use a piece of clear packing tape to cover the set face. This prevents skin
scuff marks. Using masking tape on the round head rivet sets eliminates smilies
as well.
3. For curved surfaces like going around a rib, you will often need to put a shim
between the rib and the skin. A shim is just a 3/4" by 3/4" or so piece
of .020", .025" or .032" aluminum drilled and dimpled. The rule is if you can
fit a shim between the skin and the rib, you need a shim. This will eliminate
creating flat spots along curved surfaces.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (525 hrs)
RV-10 (system install)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stein Bruch
Sent: Sunday, February 07, 2010 5:04 PM
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Has anyone ever seen a...
Do you mean a flush set like these:
http://www.averytools.com/pc-659-91-flush-rivet-set-with-guard-34-dia-face.aspx
Very, very common, although personally I like larger flush sets with no rubber
ring on them for lighter gauge metal/small rivets and narrow diameter sets for
larger rivets.
Cheers,
Stein
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of cs(at)charlesstringham.com
Sent: Sunday, February 07, 2010 3:33 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Has anyone ever seen a...
Hi Everyone,
Yesterday, I had the opportunity to practice cursing like a really bad golfer.
Every time I try using a flat rivet set on a convex surface like the leading edge
of horizontal stabilizer, two things follow: liberal use of language that
I must admit really does make me feel better, and yet another call to Vans for
a replacement skin. No matter how careful I am, the rivet set always seems to
walk just far enough off the flush rivet head to create a nice little smile.
Yes, I have hammered a few of them out, and yes, I am aware of just how anal retentive
I am.
So here's the question. Has anyone ever seen a tool that would prevent the rivet
set from walking across the skin? I am thinking of a ring made of rubber with
an inside diameter about 1/2 inch greater than the outside diameter of the rivet
set. It would have a flange that you could hold on the skin of the flight
surface. The rivet would be in the center of the ring, and the set could fit
into the ring in a way such that the set could not wander off the rivet. I know
there are sets that have a rubber ring affixed to the outer edge that oscillate
up and down with the set, but the one I am thinking of would be held to the
aircraft skin and not oscillate with the set. Has anyone ever seen something
of this type? A machinist friend offered to make one for me, but I would feel
stupid if such a tool already exists.
Thanks, Chet Stringham
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Has anyone ever seen a... |
| From: | Dan Bergeron <dan.pat.b(at)gmail.com> |
Chet:
The type of rivetting you describe is difficult - been there and done that.
Here is what I used and how I did it:
I used the rivet set you described (available from Avery Tools) with the
rubber ring around the circumference. It is more forgiving than others I've
used. Also - do not attempt this kind of rivetting alone - use a helper. My
wife did most of the rivetting on my RV-7A and I did the bucking - it worked
great - yes - we're still married. (Before we started the project we both
took the EAA sheet metal/rivetting course.) She used the rivet set
described above - held the gun with her right hand - and held the rivet set
in place and steady on the rivet with her left hand. (She is right handed.)
When we (notice I said "we") messed up - I would curse and she would point
the gun at me and threaten to pull the trigger. Use a small ball peen
hammer and a piece of steel (a large area bucking bar works fine) against
the opposite side of the aluminum and carefull and gently tap out the dent.
I had a few that had to be pounded out that way and, now that it's
finished, I'm not sure I could even find them. If they drive you crazy you
can always fill the little depressions with Super Fill. And remember - a
good painter will be your best friend. And don't be so anal - you'll never
get finished.
Dan Bergeron
RV-7A N307TB
98 hours since first flight on 8/4/09
(build time was 6 1/2 years)
On Sun, Feb 7, 2010 at 4:33 PM, cs(at)charlesstringham.com <
cs(at)charlesstringham.com> wrote:
> cs(at)charlesstringham.com>
>
> Hi Everyone,
>
> Yesterday, I had the opportunity to practice cursing like a really bad
> golfer. Every time I try using a flat rivet set on a convex surface like the
> leading edge of horizontal stabilizer, two things follow: liberal use of
> language that I must admit really does make me feel better, and yet another
> call to Vans for a replacement skin. No matter how careful I am, the rivet
> set always seems to walk just far enough off the flush rivet head to create
> a nice little smile. Yes, I have hammered a few of them out, and yes, I am
> aware of just how anal retentive I am.
>
> So here's the question. Has anyone ever seen a tool that would prevent the
> rivet set from walking across the skin? I am thinking of a ring made of
> rubber with an inside diameter about 1/2 inch greater than the outside
> diameter of the rivet set. It would have a flange that you could hold on the
> skin of the flight surface. The rivet would be in the center of the ring,
> and the set could fit into the ring in a way such that the set could not
> wander off the rivet. I know there are sets that have a rubber ring affixed
> to the outer edge that oscillate up and down with the set, but the one I am
> thinking of would be held to the aircraft skin and not oscillate with the
> set. Has anyone ever seen something of this type? A machinist friend offered
> to make one for me, but I would feel stupid if such a tool already exists.
>
> Thanks, Chet Stringham
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vincent Himsl <vshimsl(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Has anyone ever seen a... |
Hello=2C
I would suggest you check your rivet gun air pressure setting. It could be
set too high so that you cannot feather the rivet gun causing it to jump. I
had (my RV-8 is flying now) the compressor at roughly 95psi with a special
adjustment on the rivet gun itself. Put the rivet gun against something so
lid and try to go from off through full on without it jumping. Adjust the r
ivet gun psi (not the compressor) so that the gun just begins to jump and t
hen back off a hair. That seems to be the best technique as opposed to some
magic psi number. With experience you will fine tune this for the task at
hand=2C but as a beginner=2C it is a good place to start.
Next make sure you have adequate lubrication so that it doesn't hang and th
en jump.
Now given the above is set=2C you have to be perpindicular to the rivet or
the gun will walk.
Avery tools sells a swivel=2C rubber insulated rivet tool attachment (start
ing to forget the terminology) that will work but you have to hold it. In t
he beginning the swivel set is great but after awhile=2C you will find the
non swivel without rubber one easier to control especially on curved surfac
es.
As for the smilies=2C they can be fixed at the end of your project with fib
erglass/micro-ballon treatmeant. You will have worked on your windscreen by
then and will know how to work with fiberglass. Also=2C be thankful. Now y
ou have answered the 'will I paint or go with polished aluminum' question.
Whatever you do=2C don't tear everything apart and start over (anymore). Yo
ur biggest concern should not be minor imperfections=2C but the 25 to 30% c
ompetion rate for home built aircraft.
Regards=2C
Vince H.
Idaho/Washington USA
N8432
RV-8 Flying (29.5 hours)
> Date: Sun=2C 7 Feb 2010 16:33:17 -0500
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> From: cs(at)charlesstringham.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Has anyone ever seen a...
>
ngham.com>
>
> Hi Everyone=2C
>
> Yesterday=2C I had the opportunity to practice cursing like a really bad
golfer. Every time I try using a flat rivet set on a convex surface like th
e leading edge of horizontal stabilizer=2C two things follow: liberal use o
f language that I must admit really does make me feel better=2C and yet ano
ther call to Vans for a replacement skin. No matter how careful I am=2C the
rivet set always seems to walk just far enough off the flush rivet head to
create a nice little smile. Yes=2C I have hammered a few of them out=2C an
d yes=2C I am aware of just how anal retentive I am.
>
> So here's the question. Has anyone ever seen a tool that would prevent th
e rivet set from walking across the skin? I am thinking of a ring made of r
ubber with an inside diameter about 1/2 inch greater than the outside diame
ter of the rivet set. It would have a flange that you could hold on the ski
n of the flight surface. The rivet would be in the center of the ring=2C an
d the set could fit into the ring in a way such that the set could not wand
er off the rivet. I know there are sets that have a rubber ring affixed to
the outer edge that oscillate up and down with the set=2C but the one I am
thinking of would be held to the aircraft skin and not oscillate with the s
et. Has anyone ever seen something of this type? A machinist friend offered
to make one for me=2C but I would feel stupid if such a tool already exist
s.
>
> Thanks=2C Chet Stringham
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Has anyone ever seen a... |
A few items that I've found to help
with riveting:
1. Until you get more comfortable with riveting, get a helper to buck for you.
This frees up both hands so that you can use your fingers on your second hand
to position and guide the rivet set.
2. The set will walk if you are not holding the rivet gun perfectly perpendicular
to the surface that you're riveting. It will typically walk in the direction
that the gun is tilted. This applies to drilling as well.
3. If the gun is walking a lot, you may be using too much air pressure to drive
the gun
Skylor
RV-8
Almost finished...
Sent from my iPhone.
On Feb 7, 2010, at 1:33 PM, "cs(at)charlesstringham.com"
wrote:
Hi Everyone,
Yesterday, I had the opportunity to practice cursing like a really bad golfer.
Every time I try using a flat rivet set on a convex surface like the leading edge
of horizontal stabilizer, two things follow: liberal use of language that
I must admit really does make me feel better, and yet another call to Vans for
a replacement skin. No matter how careful I am, the rivet set always seems to
walk just far enough off the flush rivet head to create a nice little smile.
Yes, I have hammered a few of them out, and yes, I am aware of just how anal retentive
I am.
So here's the question. Has anyone ever seen a tool that would prevent the rivet
set from walking across the skin? I am thinking of a ring made of rubber with
an inside diameter about 1/2 inch greater than the outside diameter of the rivet
set. It would have a flange that you could hold on the skin of the flight
surface. The rivet would be in the center of the ring, and the set could fit
into the ring in a way such that the set could not wander off the rivet. I know
there are sets that have a rubber ring affixed to the outer edge that oscillate
up and down with the set, but the one I am thinking of would be held to the
aircraft skin and not oscillate with the set. Has anyone ever seen something
of this type? A machinist friend offered to make one for me, but I would feel
stupid if such a tool already exists.
Thanks, Chet Stringham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Slaughter" <william_slaughter(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Has anyone ever seen a... |
Dan is right on the money here about using one hand on the gun while one
hand steadies the rivet set, and a second person bucks. Combine this
technique with a swivel rivet set and you'll be good to go.
William Slaughter
RV-8 finishing up the fuselage
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Bergeron
Sent: Sunday, February 07, 2010 5:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Has anyone ever seen a...
Chet:
The type of rivetting you describe is difficult - been there and done that.
Here is what I used and how I did it:
I used the rivet set you described (available from Avery Tools) with the
rubber ring around the circumference. It is more forgiving than others I've
used. Also - do not attempt this kind of rivetting alone - use a helper. My
wife did most of the rivetting on my RV-7A and I did the bucking - it worked
great - yes - we're still married. (Before we started the project we both
took the EAA sheet metal/rivetting course.) She used the rivet set
described above - held the gun with her right hand - and held the rivet set
in place and steady on the rivet with her left hand. (She is right handed.)
When we (notice I said "we") messed up - I would curse and she would point
the gun at me and threaten to pull the trigger. Use a small ball peen
hammer and a piece of steel (a large area bucking bar works fine) against
the opposite side of the aluminum and carefull and gently tap out the dent.
I had a few that had to be pounded out that way and, now that it's finished,
I'm not sure I could even find them. If they drive you crazy you can always
fill the little depressions with Super Fill. And remember - a good painter
will be your best friend. And don't be so anal - you'll never get finished.
Dan Bergeron
RV-7A N307TB
98 hours since first flight on 8/4/09
(build time was 6 1/2 years)
On Sun, Feb 7, 2010 at 4:33 PM, cs(at)charlesstringham.com
wrote:
Hi Everyone,
Yesterday, I had the opportunity to practice cursing like a really bad
golfer. Every time I try using a flat rivet set on a convex surface like the
leading edge of horizontal stabilizer, two things follow: liberal use of
language that I must admit really does make me feel better, and yet another
call to Vans for a replacement skin. No matter how careful I am, the rivet
set always seems to walk just far enough off the flush rivet head to create
a nice little smile. Yes, I have hammered a few of them out, and yes, I am
aware of just how anal retentive I am.
So here's the question. Has anyone ever seen a tool that would prevent the
rivet set from walking across the skin? I am thinking of a ring made of
rubber with an inside diameter about 1/2 inch greater than the outside
diameter of the rivet set. It would have a flange that you could hold on the
skin of the flight surface. The rivet would be in the center of the ring,
and the set could fit into the ring in a way such that the set could not
wander off the rivet. I know there are sets that have a rubber ring affixed
to the outer edge that oscillate up and down with the set, but the one I am
thinking of would be held to the aircraft skin and not oscillate with the
set. Has anyone ever seen something of this type? A machinist friend offered
to make one for me, but I would feel stupid if such a tool already exists.
Thanks, Chet Stringham
==========
rget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List
==========
http://forums.matronics.com
==========
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Has anyone ever seen a... |
Charles,
I read with interest your post about rivit gun problems.
Vincent Himsls post is very accurate.as to proceedure. The only advice I
can add is, there are a lot of bargain basement rivit guns on the market.
If you cannot tease the gun when striking the rivet, GET RID OF IT. (sell it
to someone you don"t like) Both Cleveland Tool and Avery sell quality
rivit guns. Not cheap, but can control the strike rate on a good gun. Note:
practice on a piece of scrap to adjust the air pressure and strike rate
before riviting .
Good Luck.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: <cs(at)charlesstringham.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 07, 2010 3:33 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Has anyone ever seen a...
>
>
> Hi Everyone,
>
> Yesterday, I had the opportunity to practice cursing like a really bad
> golfer. Every time I try using a flat rivet set on a convex surface like
> the leading edge of horizontal stabilizer, two things follow: liberal use
> of language that I must admit really does make me feel better, and yet
> another call to Vans for a replacement skin. No matter how careful I am,
> the rivet set always seems to walk just far enough off the flush rivet
> head to create a nice little smile. Yes, I have hammered a few of them
> out, and yes, I am aware of just how anal retentive I am.
>
> So here's the question. Has anyone ever seen a tool that would prevent the
> rivet set from walking across the skin? I am thinking of a ring made of
> rubber with an inside diameter about 1/2 inch greater than the outside
> diameter of the rivet set. It would have a flange that you could hold on
> the skin of the flight surface. The rivet would be in the center of the
> ring, and the set could fit into the ring in a way such that the set could
> not wander off the rivet. I know there are sets that have a rubber ring
> affixed to the outer edge that oscillate up and down with the set, but the
> one I am thinking of would be held to the aircraft skin and not oscillate
> with the set. Has anyone ever seen something of this type? A machinist
> friend offered to make one for me, but I would feel stupid if such a tool
> already exists.
>
> Thanks, Chet Stringham
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Some RV-8 Stick/Dual Time... |
Matt...
My build and flying buddy (20,000 airline hrs) did his transition training with
Mike Seager. He's flying an -8 Mike has a -7. Wouldn't have done it any other
way.
http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/trainfly.htm
Chris Stone
RV-8
Oregon
-----Original Message-----
>From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
>Sent: Feb 5, 2010 8:33 PM
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: Some RV-8 Stick/Dual Time...
>
>
>Dear Listers,
>
>I would like to get some dual time in in an RV-8 over the next few months. Is
there anyone on the List kind of near the Livermore California airport with an
RV-8 (taildragger) that has dual controls including rudder peddles and preferably
a CS prop? With my RV-8 test flight quickly approaching, I would like
to get 5-10 hours in an RV-8 before I go to get insurance and go for that first
flight. I'm current, have over 100 hours in tailwheels, and carry aircraft
renters insurance.
>
>I would reimburse for gas and lunches! :-)
>
>Matt Dralle
>RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's RV-8 Builders Log
>Finishing Up...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Johnston <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Some RV-8 Stick/Dual Time... |
I second this opinion. Training with mike is really the way to go.
cj
On Feb 8, 2010, at 7:01 AM, "Chris Stone"
wrote:
>
> Matt...
>
> My build and flying buddy (20,000 airline hrs) did his transition
> training with Mike Seager. He's flying an -8 Mike has a -7.
> Wouldn't have done it any other way.
>
> http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/trainfly.htm
>
> Chris Stone
> RV-8
> Oregon
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
>> Sent: Feb 5, 2010 8:33 PM
>> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV8-List: Some RV-8 Stick/Dual Time...
>>
>>
>>
>> Dear Listers,
>>
>> I would like to get some dual time in in an RV-8 over the next few
>> months. Is there anyone on the List kind of near the Livermore
>> California airport with an RV-8 (taildragger) that has dual
>> controls including rudder peddles and preferably a CS prop? With
>> my RV-8 test flight quickly approaching, I would like to get 5-10
>> hours in an RV-8 before I go to get insurance and go for that first
>> flight. I'm current, have over 100 hours in tailwheels, and carry
>> aircraft renters insurance.
>>
>> I would reimburse for gas and lunches! :-)
>>
>> Matt Dralle
>> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>> http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's RV-8 Builders Log
>> Finishing Up...
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Walking Flush Rivet Set |
| From: | Martin Sobel <rv8vator(at)comcast.net> |
Sounds like you are using too much pressure. I would suggest about 25 psi at
the gun.
Also, if you can find someone to buck, you can hold the gun in two hands,
one at the set, the other at the trigger.
MARTIN SOBEL
Captain (Ret) TWA
FlightSafety International (Ret)
941-359-8693
941-355-7732 (Fax)
941-539-4806 (Cell)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Fiberglass Windscreen Bezel |
Hey guys,
Well, the fiberglass windscreen bezel is THE job I have been dreading the most
about this RV-8 project. I'm happy to report that tonight it is complete! And
it turned out really nice. I documented the whole process on my RV-8 builder's
blog here (11 log entries):
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2973&log=98294&row=11
It took two tries to get it the way I wanted it. The first time, I didn't get
the line straight left-to-right and the dip in the center wasn't in the center.
The second time around, I made sure it was dead on!
I've attached a few photos of the process (more on the blog).
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
Fiberglass Around Wheel Pants...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cs(at)charlesstringham.com" <cs(at)charlesstringham.com> |
Thank you so much Stein, Matt, Carl, Dan, Vincent, William, and Martin for your
help. Indeed I had been trying to hold the rivet gun with one hand and the bucking
bar with the other. For short reaches between the two, it's not too much
of a stretch. But for longer reaches, it's almost impossible to control the rivet
gun. My wife and daughter are in the process of being sworn in as bucking
bar holders. I don't think I realized just how steep the learning curve is in
the construction of an RV.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
Last tip, have whatever helper you draft run the rivet gun, not the bucking bar.
The rivet gun is much easier to learn and they will be more likely to help
longer.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of cs(at)charlesstringham.com
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2010 11:59 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Thanks
Thank you so much Stein, Matt, Carl, Dan, Vincent, William, and Martin for your
help. Indeed I had been trying to hold the rivet gun with one hand and the bucking
bar with the other. For short reaches between the two, it's not too much
of a stretch. But for longer reaches, it's almost impossible to control the rivet
gun. My wife and daughter are in the process of being sworn in as bucking
bar holders. I don't think I realized just how steep the learning curve is in
the construction of an RV.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peck, Gaillard R CTR USAF ACC USAFWS/CBD" <gaillard.peck.ctr(at)nellis.af.mil> |
And many of the rest of us RV builders have monitored this dialogue with interest.
Thanks truly go to the master mentors.
Gail Peck
RV-8 (slow build - wings about 20% done)
Las Vegas
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of cs(at)charlesstringham.com
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2010 8:59 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Thanks
Thank you so much Stein, Matt, Carl, Dan, Vincent, William, and Martin for your
help. Indeed I had been trying to hold the rivet gun with one hand and the bucking
bar with the other. For short reaches between the two, it's not too much
of a stretch. But for longer reaches, it's almost impossible to control the rivet
gun. My wife and daughter are in the process of being sworn in as bucking
bar holders. I don't think I realized just how steep the learning curve is in
the construction of an RV.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Windscreen Metal Bezel |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Dear Fellow RV-8 Builders & Owners, I just saw some photos of Matt Dralle'
s RV-8 windscreen and the metal bezel around the roll bar and top of winds
creen is beautiful! Mounting the wind screen is two steps away for my cons
truction and I want to that application for my bird. Looked like the prese
ntation on a F104. Who knows how it's make? Do I need metal stretcher or
what? What type and thickness of metal is used, Screw size and type ? Is
there a template somewhere? I called Van's, talked to Ken, they got noth
ing. Hope to hear from you all soon as this is a much better looking way,
Bill of Georgia RV-8a Wiring
-----Original Message-----
From: RV8-List Digest Server <rv8-list(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Wed, Feb 10, 2010 2:59 am
Subject: RV8-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 02/09/10
*
========================
========================
=
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
========================
========================
=
Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the
wo Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
n HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
nd Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
f the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
uch as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=ht
ml&Chapter 10-02-09&Archive=RV8
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=tx
t&Chapter 10-02-09&Archive=RV8
========================
=======================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
========================
=======================
----------------------------------------------------------
RV8-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Tue 02/09/10: 2
----------------------------------------------------------
oday's Message Index:
---------------------
1. 05:07 AM - Re: Thanks (Carl Froehlich)
2. 09:27 AM - Re: Thanks (Peck, Gaillard R CTR USAF ACC USAFWS/CBD)
_______________________________ Message 1 ______________________________
_______
rom: "Carl Froehlich"
ubject: RE: RV8-List: Thanks
ast tip, have whatever helper you draft run the rivet gun, not the bucking
bar.
he rivet gun is much easier to learn and they will be more likely to help
onger.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
rom: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server@mat
ronics.com]
n Behalf Of cs(at)charlesstringham.com
ent: Monday, February 08, 2010 11:59 PM
ubject: RV8-List: Thanks
hank you so much Stein, Matt, Carl, Dan, Vincent, William, and Martin for
your
elp. Indeed I had been trying to hold the rivet gun with one hand and the
ucking
ar with the other. For short reaches between the two, it's not too much
f a stretch. But for longer reaches, it's almost impossible to control the
ivet
un. My wife and daughter are in the process of being sworn in as bucking
ar holders. I don't think I realized just how steep the learning curve is
in
he construction of an RV.
_______________________________ Message 2 ______________________________
_______
ubject: RE: RV8-List: Thanks
rom: "Peck, Gaillard R CTR USAF ACC USAFWS/CBD" <gaillard.peck.ctr@nellis.
af.mil>
nd many of the rest of us RV builders have monitored this dialogue with
nterest.
hanks truly go to the master mentors.
Gail Peck
V-8 (slow build - wings about 20% done)
as Vegas
-----Original Message-----
rom: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server@mat
ronics.com]
n Behalf Of cs(at)charlesstringham.com
ent: Monday, February 08, 2010 8:59 PM
ubject: RV8-List: Thanks
hank you so much Stein, Matt, Carl, Dan, Vincent, William, and Martin for
your
elp. Indeed I had been trying to hold the rivet gun with one hand and the
ucking
ar with the other. For short reaches between the two, it's not too much
f a stretch. But for longer reaches, it's almost impossible to control the
ivet
un. My wife and daughter are in the process of being sworn in as bucking
ar holders. I don't think I realized just how steep the learning curve is
in
he construction of an RV.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
Does anyone on this list know of anyone who has tried adding winglets to
the RV-8 and, if so, their success - or lack of?
Stan Sutterfield
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
Does anyone on this list know of anyone who has tried adding winglets to
the RV-8 and, if so, their success - or lack of?
Stan Sutterfield
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Windscreen Metal Bezel (With Corrected URLs) |
At 08:54 AM 2/10/2010 Wednesday, you wrote:
>Dear Fellow RV-8 Builders & Owners, I just saw some photos of Matt Dralle's RV-8
windscreen and the metal bezel around the roll bar and top of windscreen is
beautiful! Mounting the wind screen is two steps away for my construction and
I want to that application for my bird. Looked like the presentation on a F104.
Who knows how it's make? Do I need metal stretcher or what? What type and
thickness of metal is used, Screw size and type ? Is there a template somewhere?
I called Van's, talked to Ken, they got nothing. Hope to hear from you all
soon as this is a much better looking way, Bill of Georgia RV-8a Wiring
Hi Bill,
Below are 17 entries from my RV-8 Builder's Log where I document the process of
fabricating that metal bezel over the windscreen/rollbar on the RV-8. I can't
imagine doing a fiberglass lay up over the top like that. What a mess it would
make inside the cabin. The metal bezel is very strong. I used .032" for
the main bezel plus another .032" stiffener at the top. I originally went with
#6 screws, but the broke a tap off in the hole and had to go with #8. I'd probably
do #8 again from the start just for the increased surface area. No shrinker/stretcher
needed. Just a very accurate pattern as shown in the photos.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Metal Bezel For Windscreen/Rollbar:
(12 Log Entries - Parts 1 - 12):
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2973&log=93178&row=158
(2 Log Entries - Parts 1 - 2):
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2973&log=94693&row=139
(3 Log Entries - Parts 1 - 3):
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2973&log'370&row=48
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
Finishing Up...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Windscreen Metal Bezel |
| From: | "Kopp, Kenneth G CDR HSM-70, N0 Exec Staff" <kenneth.kopp(at)navy.mil> |
Matt - do you still have the final patterns you used? I'd be happy to buy them
off you and pay for shipping. I love what you've done and believe this is the
way to go. Nice work!
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Windscreen Metal Bezel (With Corrected URLs) |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Matt, thanks for the great info. Why did you make it into two parts? Could
you not cut it from one single piece of metal? Also, the reinforcement
doubler you riveted at the top, how can the working ends of the rivets st
ick out the bottom and they not interfere with the sliding canopy? Seems
like they would push it down and scratch the plexiglass. Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Thu, Feb 11, 2010 12:19 pm
Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8 Windscreen Metal Bezel (With Corrected URLs)
At 08:54 AM 2/10/2010 Wednesday, you wrote:
Dear Fellow RV-8 Builders & Owners, I just saw some photos of Matt Dralle'
s
V-8 windscreen and the metal bezel around the roll bar and top of windscre
en is
eautiful! Mounting the wind screen is two steps away for my construction
and I
ant to that application for my bird. Looked like the presentation on a F10
4.
ho knows how it's make? Do I need metal stretcher or what? What type and
hickness of metal is used, Screw size and type ? Is there a template somew
here?
called Van's, talked to Ken, they got nothing. Hope to hear from you all
soon
s this is a much better looking way, Bill of Georgia RV-8a Wiring
i Bill,
Below are 17 entries from my RV-8 Builder's Log where I document the proce
ss of
abricating that metal bezel over the windscreen/rollbar on the RV-8. I ca
n't
magine doing a fiberglass lay up over the top like that. What a mess it
would
ake inside the cabin. The metal bezel is very strong. I used .032" for
the
ain bezel plus another .032" stiffener at the top. I originally went with
#6
crews, but the broke a tap off in the hole and had to go with #8. I'd pro
bably
o #8 again from the start just for the increased surface area. No
hrinker/stretcher needed. Just a very accurate pattern as shown in the ph
otos.
et me know if you have any questions.
Metal Bezel For Windscreen/Rollbar:
(12 Log Entries - Parts 1 - 12):
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=63
8&category=2973&log=93178&row=158
2 Log Entries - Parts 1 - 2):
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=63
8&category=2973&log=94693&row=139
3 Log Entries - Parts 1 - 3):
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=63
8&category=2973&log=96370&row=48
att Dralle
V-8 #82880 N998RV
ttp://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
inishing Up...
-========================
========================
===========
-= - The RV8-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List
-
-========================
========================
===========
-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
-
-= --> http://forums.matronics.com
-
-========================
========================
===========
-= - List Contribution Web Site -
-= Thank you for your generous support!
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-========================
========================
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Windscreen Metal Bezel |
At 11:15 AM 2/11/2010 Thursday, you wrote:
>Matt, thanks for the great info. Why did you make it into two parts? Could you
not cut it from one single piece of metal? Also, the reinforcement doubler you
riveted at the top, how can the working ends of the rivets stick out the bottom
and they not interfere with the sliding canopy? Seems like they would push
it down and scratch the plexiglass. Bill
Hi Bill,
I only made it in two parts because the extra .032 I had laying around was only
48" wide which wasn't wide enough to go all the way around. I really wanted
a single piece.
Regarding the shop heads, you'll note from the pictures that I really squashed
them down to minimize the amount that stuck down. They just clear the metal bezel
I have on the canopy. That being said, there is a slight upward deflection
of the windscreen bezel so there is more clearance there than you'd think.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
Finishing Up...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
HI Stan-
I have a dusty recollection of some mod company tinkering with experimental
winglets. I think they might be somewhere in Canada- sorry I don't recall
more about them.
glen matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.ne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Adding Thinned Resin To INSIDE Of Cowling... |
Greetings fellow builders,
In the manual, Van's describes a procedure of mixing some resin 1:1 with acetone
to form a thin coating for the OUTSIDE of the cowling to make a filler for the
pin holes and other surface imperfections. Seems straightforward enough.
But what about the INSIDE of the cowling? That open weave seems like its going
to soak up any oil and whatnot that runs out of these leaky 'ol Lycomings.
Thoughts?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's RV-8 Building Blog
Finishing up...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <John.Morrissey(at)csiro.au> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-List: Adding Thinned Resin To INSIDE Of Cowling... |
Hi Matt,
In practical terms the fibreglass is pretty impervious to oil leaks. I just use
a bit of degreaser to wash the inside of the cowls at 100hr inspection times
and everything stays pretty clean. The extra weight of all that additional fibreglass
just isn't worth it in the long run.
If it really worries you buy an English Wheel and a TIG welder and make a set of
new cowls out of aluminium. :-)
Good luck
John Morrissey
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Tuesday, 23 February 2010 9:58 AM
Subject: RV-List: Adding Thinned Resin To INSIDE Of Cowling...
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle
Greetings fellow builders,
In the manual, Van's describes a procedure of mixing some resin 1:1 with acetone
to form a thin coating for the OUTSIDE of the cowling to make a filler for the
pin holes and other surface imperfections. Seems straightforward enough.
But what about the INSIDE of the cowling? That open weave seems like its going
to soak up any oil and whatnot that runs out of these leaky 'ol Lycomings.
Thoughts?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's RV-8 Building Blog
Finishing up...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Adding Thinned Resin To INSIDE Of Cowling... |
Recommend just priming with white epoxy primer (e.g.PPG). The primer will
seal the fiberglass and will reflect some heat. This is what I did on my 8A
and it is holding up well.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (525 hrs)
RV-10 (fuselage)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Monday, February 22, 2010 5:58 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Adding Thinned Resin To INSIDE Of Cowling...
Greetings fellow builders,
In the manual, Van's describes a procedure of mixing some resin 1:1 with
acetone to form a thin coating for the OUTSIDE of the cowling to make a
filler for the pin holes and other surface imperfections. Seems
straightforward enough.
But what about the INSIDE of the cowling? That open weave seems like its
going to soak up any oil and whatnot that runs out of these leaky 'ol
Lycomings.
Thoughts?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's RV-8 Building Blog
Finishing up...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 02/22/10 |
Matt,
I do recommend that you do something to seal and protect the inside of the
cowling. I didn't do anything and I'm regretting it after only 60 hours.
I'm getting a little bit of browning due to the exhaust heat and leaked
oil seems to be soaking into the fiberglass. I've talked to several other
owners with more hours who have encountered the same problem and once the
cowling is oil soaked, nothing will stick to the inside despite vigorous
cleaning attempts.
Your idea of using thinned resin is not a bad one. I would weigh the
resin and then decide if I wanted to do that or add paint (which is also heavy)
or add an adhesive reflective barrier (some weight involved). One thing to
consider is to use high temp resin to resist the exhaust temperatures.
My #2 exhaust pipe was too close to the cowling and after landing from the
initial flight (20 minutes) it had burned the glass and honeycomb (no
exterior damage). I had to remove the burned portion and replace it with carbon
fiber (for strength) and high temp resin. You have the same engine as me,
so you may encounter the same problem.
So, personally, I recommend you do the resin thing on the inside. But, if
you don't want to buy high temp resin ($180/gal), then maybe use high temp
light colored paint or self adhesive reflective barrier.
Stan Sutterfield
In the manual, Van's describes a procedure of mixing some resin 1:1 with
acetone
to form a thin coating for the OUTSIDE of the cowling to make a filler for
the
pin holes and other surface imperfections. Seems straightforward enough.
But what about the INSIDE of the cowling? That open weave seems like its
going
to soak up any oil and whatnot that runs out of these leaky 'ol Lycomings.
Thoughts?
Matt Dralle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Photos Of CS Prop Bolt Safety Wiring...? |
Does anyone have any close-up photos of how they safety wired the prop bolts on
a Hartzell CS prop? You have to run the safety wire though those roll-pins.
What a pain. If you have to pull the torque up from the bottom, it seems impossible
to actually set twist. Maybe if I twist both ends first... Hum...
Anyway, some pics would be most appreciated!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Photos Of CS Prop Bolt Safety Wiring...? |
At 12:08 PM 2/28/2010 Sunday, Matt Dralle wrote:
>Does anyone have any close-up photos of how they safety wired the prop bolts on
a Hartzell CS prop? You have to run the safety wire though those roll-pins.
What a pain. If you have to pull the torque up from the bottom, it seems impossible
to actually set twist. Maybe if I twist both ends first... Hum...
>
>Anyway, some pics would be most appreciated!
>
>Matt Dralle
Well, okay, so it wasn't quite as hard as I thought. It was still a pain though!
Here are three pictures of the safety wiring I did on the Hartzell CS Prop
bolts (photo of each pair of bolts). What do you guys think?
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Photos Of CS Prop Bolt Safety Wiring...? |
| From: | Blake Lewis <blake.lewis(at)gmail.com> |
Matt,
I watched a mechanic do this last Thursday. Well I didn't watch the
whole time because it took him forever. He was complaining an hour after he
was done.
I didn't take pics.
Blake.
Does anyone have any close-up photos of how they safety wired the prop bolts
> on a Hartzell CS prop? You have to run the safety wire though those
> roll-pins. What a pain. If you have to pull the torque up from the bottom,
> it seems impossible to actually set twist. Maybe if I twist both ends
> first... Hum...
>
> Anyway, some pics would be most appreciated!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8- Air Vents |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
On the RV-8 who has their front air vent valve below the panel instead of
out the face ? I'm not sure if I locate the vent below the panel I can ge
t a face full of air and most times that what needs cooling the most. Who
has their vent(s) set up under the panel that can say ? I've seen severa
l panels so configured on the Van's air force "Show use your panel" thread
so I know some fellows have it that way. Hope to hear from someone, Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: RV8-List Digest Server <rv8-list(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Sat, Mar 6, 2010 2:58 am
Subject: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/05/10
*
========================
========================
=
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
========================
========================
=
Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the
wo Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
n HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
nd Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
f the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
uch as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=ht
ml&Chapter 10-03-05&Archive=RV8
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=tx
t&Chapter 10-03-05&Archive=RV8
========================
=======================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
========================
=======================
----------------------------------------------------------
RV8-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Fri 03/05/10: 0
----------------------------------------------------------
oday's Message Index:
---------------------
-========================
========================
===========
-= - The RV8-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List
-
-========================
========================
===========
-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
-
-= --> http://forums.matronics.com
-
-========================
========================
===========
-= - List Contribution Web Site -
-= Thank you for your generous support!
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-========================
========================
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8- Air Vents |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8- Air Vents |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Michael, I received your reply, but there was no text. My wife has been on
the computer so she may have screwed it up somehow. Please send again, Th
anks, Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Sent: Sun, Mar 7, 2010 7:11 am
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Re: RV8- Air Vents
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8- Air Vents |
I had it that way on my original RV-4 panel. Cooled my chest and neck
great. When I redid my panel I moved them up in the panel. Now I can
direct it on my fade, neck, or chest. I'm very happy with it this way!
-Mike
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 7, 2010, at 8:04 AM, japhillipsga(at)aol.com wrote:
> Michael, I received your reply, but there was no text. My wife has
> been on the computer so she may have screwed it up somehow. Please
> send again, Thanks, Bill
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Sun, Mar 7, 2010 7:11 am
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Re: RV8- Air Vents
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8- Air Vents |
That is how I did it on the 8A. It is mounted on a small piece of
=BE=94 by =BE=94
angle that attaches to the throttle quadrant side. I have it so the
vent
angles up toward me. I=92m happy with the install. The panel real
estate is
too valuable to use space for a vent.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (525 hrs)
RV-10 (system install)
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
japhillipsga(at)aol.com
Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2010 1:03 AM
Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8- Air Vents
On the RV-8 who has their front air vent valve below the panel instead
of
out the face ? I'm not sure if I locate the vent below the panel I can
get a
face full of air and most times that what needs cooling the most. Who
has
their vent(s) set up under the panel that can say ? I've seen several
panels so configured on the Van's air force "Show use your panel" thread
so
I know some fellows have it that way. Hope to hear from someone, Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: RV8-List Digest Server <rv8-list(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Sat, Mar 6, 2010 2:58 am
Subject: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/05/10
*
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the
two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
formatted
in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701
<http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html
&Chapte
r 10-03-05&Archive=RV8>
&View=html&Chapter 10-03-05&Archive=RV8
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701
<http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&
Chapter
10-03-05&Archive=RV8>
&View=txt&Chapter 10-03-05&Archive=RV8
======================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
======================
----------------------------------------------------------
RV8-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Fri 03/05/10: 0
----------------------------------------------------------
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8- Air Vents |
Bill,
I put my front cockpit air vents down low below the panel. I have three
vents.
There are several reasons I mounted the vents low in the cockpit.
1. I don't like air (warm or cool) blowing directly in my face.
2. I wanted to be able to direct warm air for the rear cockpit along
the side of the cockpit over the passengers knee so there would be no
obstructions. Other builders reported that getting warm air to the RCP was
difficult.
3. I wanted to keep the main panel as uncluttered as possible.
4. I wanted to keep the ducting hidden.
I have three vents because the right side can be either heat or cool while
the left side is cool only. The right side splits the air to two vents -
one of which can be directed on my feet.
In practice, the setup has worked well for me. I can get enough cool air
in the summer without it blowing directly in my face and heat if needed in
the winter. I haven't tested the heat down the sidewall for the passenger
yet - although I can certainly direct the air to the RCP.
A couple of things to keep in mind about my setup though is that I used the
lower portion of the front baggage for the main battery and I've routed
wiring, fuel lines, and air ducting through there. On the left side of the
footwell, I added a matching cover on the left side which conceals the left
vent ducting.
If you care to see what I've done, you can view my web photos at
_http://www.rv-8a.net/2007.htm_ (http://www.rv-8a.net/2007.htm) and scroll down to
18 Feb 07, 12 Mar 07, and 22 Apr 07. Then see the overall cockpit at
_http://www.rv-8a.net/2009APR.htm_ (http://www.rv-8a.net/2009APR.htm) and scroll
down to 22 Apr 09. Click on the photo to see a large version and you can
spot the vents if you look carefully below the panel.
Any questions - let me know.
Stan Sutterfield
On the RV-8 who has their front air vent valve below the panel instead of
out the face ? I'm not sure if I locate the vent below the panel I can ge
t a face full of air and most times that what needs cooling the most. Who
has their vent(s) set up under the panel that can say ? I've seen severa
l panels so configured on the Van's air force "Show use your panel" thread
so I know some fellows have it that way. Hope to hear from someone, Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Timothy E. Cone" <tcone1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8- Air Vents |
Mine is out the bottom and I love it.
Here's a pic
----- Original Message -----
From: japhillipsga(at)aol.com
To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2010 10:03 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8- Air Vents
On the RV-8 who has their front air vent valve below the panel
instead of out the face ? I'm not sure if I locate the vent below the
panel I can get a face full of air and most times that what needs
cooling the most. Who has their vent(s) set up under the panel that can
say ? I've seen several panels so configured on the Van's air force
"Show use your panel" thread so I know some fellows have it that way.
Hope to hear from someone, Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: RV8-List Digest Server <rv8-list(at)matronics.com>
To: RV8-List Digest List
Sent: Sat, Mar 6, 2010 2:58 am
Subject: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/05/10
*
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the
two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
formatted
in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&
Chapter 10-03-05&Archive=RV8
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&C
hapter 10-03-05&Archive=RV8
======================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
======================
----------------------------------------------------------
RV8-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Fri 03/05/10: 0
----------------------------------------------------------
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)AOL.com |
| Subject: | Princeton Fuel Probes |
Matt,
I noticed on your log that you used the Princeton Fuel Probes. I have had
VERY poor performance from them. I have calibrated them to the engine
monitor 8 times and they are still inaccurate. I am contemplating removing
them, throwing them away, and replacing them with regular floats. The normal
floats can not possibly be any more inaccurate.
I've talked to both the Princeton guy and to the AFS engine monitors
folks. No success.
I'd be interested to hear if other builders have used the probes and found
them to be inaccurate.
Stan Sutterfield
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 03/07/10 |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Thanks fellows for all the great vent input. I've mounted it under the pan
el to the left, low enough to get some air on my face and left enough to
keep it away from my knee. Good show!, Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: RV8-List Digest Server <rv8-list(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Mon, Mar 8, 2010 2:58 am
Subject: RV8-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 03/07/10
*
========================
========================
=
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
========================
========================
=
Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the
wo Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
n HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
nd Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
f the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
uch as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=ht
ml&Chapter 10-03-07&Archive=RV8
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=tx
t&Chapter 10-03-07&Archive=RV8
========================
=======================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
========================
=======================
----------------------------------------------------------
RV8-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Sun 03/07/10: 7
----------------------------------------------------------
oday's Message Index:
---------------------
1. 04:16 AM - Re: Re: RV8- Air Vents (Michael Kraus)
2. 05:07 AM - Re: Re: RV8- Air Vents (japhillipsga(at)aol.com)
3. 05:36 AM - Re: Re: RV8- Air Vents (Michael Kraus)
4. 06:04 AM - Re: Re: RV8- Air Vents (Carl Froehlich)
5. 02:53 PM - Re: RV8- Air Vents (Speedy11(at)aol.com)
6. 03:31 PM - Re: Re: RV8- Air Vents (Timothy E. Cone)
7. 04:15 PM - Princeton Fuel Probes (Speedy11(at)AOL.com)
_______________________________ Message 1 ______________________________
_______
rom: Michael Kraus
ubject: Re: RV8-List: Re: RV8- Air Vents
_______________________________ Message 2 ______________________________
_______
ubject: Re: RV8-List: Re: RV8- Air Vents
rom: japhillipsga(at)aol.com
Michael, I received your reply, but there was no text. My wife has been on
the computer so she may have screwed it up somehow. Please send again, Th
nks, Bill
----Original Message-----
rom: Michael Kraus
ent: Sun, Mar 7, 2010 7:11 am
ubject: Re: RV8-List: Re: RV8- Air Vents
_______________________________ Message 3 ______________________________
_______
rom: Michael Kraus
ubject: Re: RV8-List: Re: RV8- Air Vents
I had it that way on my original RV-4 panel. Cooled my chest and neck
reat. When I redid my panel I moved them up in the panel. Now I can
irect it on my fade, neck, or chest. I'm very happy with it this way!
Mike
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 7, 2010, at 8:04 AM, japhillipsga(at)aol.com wrote:
> Michael, I received your reply, but there was no text. My wife has
been on the computer so she may have screwed it up somehow. Please
send again, Thanks, Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sun, Mar 7, 2010 7:11 am
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Re: RV8- Air Vents
________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________
________
rom: "Carl Froehlich"
ubject: RE: RV8-List: Re: RV8- Air Vents
That is how I did it on the 8A. It is mounted on a small piece of
BE=94 by =BE=94
ngle that attaches to the throttle quadrant side. I have it so the
ent
ngles up toward me. I=92m happy with the install. The panel real
state is
oo valuable to use space for a vent.
arl Froehlich
RV-8A (525 hrs)
RV-10 (system install)
rom: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
aphillipsga(at)aol.com
ent: Sunday, March 07, 2010 1:03 AM
ubject: RV8-List: Re: RV8- Air Vents
n the RV-8 who has their front air vent valve below the panel instead
f
ut the face ? I'm not sure if I locate the vent below the panel I can
et a
ace full of air and most times that what needs cooling the most. Who
as
heir vent(s) set up under the panel that can say ? I've seen several
anels so configured on the Van's air force "Show use your panel" thread
o
know some fellows have it that way. Hope to hear from someone, Bill
----Original Message-----
rom: RV8-List Digest Server
ent: Sat, Mar 6, 2010 2:58 am
ubject: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/05/10
*
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
oday's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the
wo Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
ormatted
n HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
nd Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
f the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
uch as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html
Chapte
10-03-05&Archive=RV8>
View=html&Chapter 10-03-05&Archive=RV8
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&
hapter
10-03-05&Archive=RV8>
View=txt&Chapter 10-03-05&Archive=RV8
====================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
=====================
----------------------------------------------------------
RV8-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Fri 03/05/10: 0
----------------------------------------------------------
oday's Message Index:
---------------------
et=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List
p://forums.matronics.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
_______________________________ Message 5 ______________________________
_______
rom: Speedy11(at)aol.com
ubject: RV8-List: Re: RV8- Air Vents
ill,
put my front cockpit air vents down low below the panel. I have three
ents.
here are several reasons I mounted the vents low in the cockpit.
1. I don't like air (warm or cool) blowing directly in my face.
2. I wanted to be able to direct warm air for the rear cockpit along
he side of the cockpit over the passengers knee so there would be no
bstructions. Other builders reported that getting warm air to the RCP was
ifficult.
3. I wanted to keep the main panel as uncluttered as possible.
4. I wanted to keep the ducting hidden.
have three vents because the right side can be either heat or cool while
he left side is cool only. The right side splits the air to two vents -
ne of which can be directed on my feet.
n practice, the setup has worked well for me. I can get enough cool air
n the summer without it blowing directly in my face and heat if needed in
he winter. I haven't tested the heat down the sidewall for the passenger
et - although I can certainly direct the air to the RCP.
couple of things to keep in mind about my setup though is that I used the
lower portion of the front baggage for the main battery and I've routed
iring, fuel lines, and air ducting through there. On the left side of th
e
ootwell, I added a matching cover on the left side which conceals the left
ent ducting.
f you care to see what I've done, you can view my web photos at
http://www.rv-8a.net/2007.htm_ (http://www.rv-8a.net/2007.htm) and scrol
l
own to
8 Feb 07, 12 Mar 07, and 22 Apr 07. Then see the overall cockpit at
http://www.rv-8a.net/2009APR.htm_ (http://www.rv-8a.net/2009APR.htm) and
croll
own to 22 Apr 09. Click on the photo to see a large version and you can
pot the vents if you look carefully below the panel.
ny questions - let me know.
tan Sutterfield
n the RV-8 who has their front air vent valve below the panel instead
of
ut the face ? I'm not sure if I locate the vent below the panel I can ge
a face full of air and most times that what needs cooling the most. Who
as their vent(s) set up under the panel that can say ? I've seen severa
panels so configured on the Van's air force "Show use your panel" thread
o I know some fellows have it that way. Hope to hear from someone, Bill
_______________________________ Message 6 ______________________________
_______
rom: "Timothy E. Cone"
ubject: Re: RV8-List: Re: RV8- Air Vents
Mine is out the bottom and I love it.
Here's a pic
----- Original Message -----
From: japhillipsga(at)aol.com
To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2010 10:03 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8- Air Vents
On the RV-8 who has their front air vent valve below the panel
nstead of out the face ? I'm not sure if I locate the vent below the
anel I can get a face full of air and most times that what needs
ooling the most. Who has their vent(s) set up under the panel that can
ay ? I've seen several panels so configured on the Van's air force
Show use your panel" thread so I know some fellows have it that way.
ope to hear from someone, Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: RV8-List Digest Server <rv8-list(at)matronics.com>
To: RV8-List Digest List
Sent: Sat, Mar 6, 2010 2:58 am
Subject: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/05/10
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
oday's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the
wo Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
ormatted
n HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
nd Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
f the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
uch as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
ttp://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&
hapter 10-03-05&Archive=RV8
Text Version:
ttp://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&C
apter 10-03-05&Archive=RV8
====================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
=====================
----------------------------------------------------------
RV8-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Fri 03/05/10: 0
----------------------------------------------------------
oday's Message Index:
---------------------
et=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List
p://forums.matronics.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
_______________________________ Message 7 ______________________________
_______
rom: Speedy11(at)AOL.com
ubject: RV8-List: Princeton Fuel Probes
Matt,
noticed on your log that you used the Princeton Fuel Probes. I have had
ERY poor performance from them. I have calibrated them to the engine
onitor 8 times and they are still inaccurate. I am contemplating removing
hem, throwing them away, and replacing them with regular floats. The nor
mal
floats can not possibly be any more inaccurate.
've talked to both the Princeton guy and to the AFS engine monitors
olks. No success.
'd be interested to hear if other builders have used the probes and found
hem to be inaccurate.
tan Sutterfield
-========================
========================
===========
-= - The RV8-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List
-
-========================
========================
===========
-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
-
-= --> http://forums.matronics.com
-
-========================
========================
===========
-= - List Contribution Web Site -
-= Thank you for your generous support!
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-========================
========================
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 03/07/10 |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Thanks fellows for all the great vent input. I've mounted it under the pan
el to the left, low enough to get some air on my face and left enough to
keep it away from my knee. Good show!, Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: RV8-List Digest Server <rv8-list(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Mon, Mar 8, 2010 2:58 am
Subject: RV8-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 03/07/10
*
========================
========================
=
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
========================
========================
=
Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the
wo Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
n HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
nd Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
f the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
uch as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=ht
ml&Chapter 10-03-07&Archive=RV8
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=tx
t&Chapter 10-03-07&Archive=RV8
========================
=======================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
========================
=======================
----------------------------------------------------------
RV8-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Sun 03/07/10: 7
----------------------------------------------------------
oday's Message Index:
---------------------
1. 04:16 AM - Re: Re: RV8- Air Vents (Michael Kraus)
2. 05:07 AM - Re: Re: RV8- Air Vents (japhillipsga(at)aol.com)
3. 05:36 AM - Re: Re: RV8- Air Vents (Michael Kraus)
4. 06:04 AM - Re: Re: RV8- Air Vents (Carl Froehlich)
5. 02:53 PM - Re: RV8- Air Vents (Speedy11(at)aol.com)
6. 03:31 PM - Re: Re: RV8- Air Vents (Timothy E. Cone)
7. 04:15 PM - Princeton Fuel Probes (Speedy11(at)AOL.com)
_______________________________ Message 1 ______________________________
_______
rom: Michael Kraus
ubject: Re: RV8-List: Re: RV8- Air Vents
_______________________________ Message 2 ______________________________
_______
ubject: Re: RV8-List: Re: RV8- Air Vents
rom: japhillipsga(at)aol.com
Michael, I received your reply, but there was no text. My wife has been on
the computer so she may have screwed it up somehow. Please send again, Th
nks, Bill
----Original Message-----
rom: Michael Kraus
ent: Sun, Mar 7, 2010 7:11 am
ubject: Re: RV8-List: Re: RV8- Air Vents
_______________________________ Message 3 ______________________________
_______
rom: Michael Kraus
ubject: Re: RV8-List: Re: RV8- Air Vents
I had it that way on my original RV-4 panel. Cooled my chest and neck
reat. When I redid my panel I moved them up in the panel. Now I can
irect it on my fade, neck, or chest. I'm very happy with it this way!
Mike
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 7, 2010, at 8:04 AM, japhillipsga(at)aol.com wrote:
> Michael, I received your reply, but there was no text. My wife has
been on the computer so she may have screwed it up somehow. Please
send again, Thanks, Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sun, Mar 7, 2010 7:11 am
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Re: RV8- Air Vents
________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________
________
rom: "Carl Froehlich"
ubject: RE: RV8-List: Re: RV8- Air Vents
That is how I did it on the 8A. It is mounted on a small piece of
BE=94 by =BE=94
ngle that attaches to the throttle quadrant side. I have it so the
ent
ngles up toward me. I=92m happy with the install. The panel real
state is
oo valuable to use space for a vent.
arl Froehlich
RV-8A (525 hrs)
RV-10 (system install)
rom: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
aphillipsga(at)aol.com
ent: Sunday, March 07, 2010 1:03 AM
ubject: RV8-List: Re: RV8- Air Vents
n the RV-8 who has their front air vent valve below the panel instead
f
ut the face ? I'm not sure if I locate the vent below the panel I can
et a
ace full of air and most times that what needs cooling the most. Who
as
heir vent(s) set up under the panel that can say ? I've seen several
anels so configured on the Van's air force "Show use your panel" thread
o
know some fellows have it that way. Hope to hear from someone, Bill
----Original Message-----
rom: RV8-List Digest Server
ent: Sat, Mar 6, 2010 2:58 am
ubject: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/05/10
*
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
oday's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the
wo Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
ormatted
n HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
nd Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
f the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
uch as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html
Chapte
10-03-05&Archive=RV8>
View=html&Chapter 10-03-05&Archive=RV8
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&
hapter
10-03-05&Archive=RV8>
View=txt&Chapter 10-03-05&Archive=RV8
====================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
=====================
----------------------------------------------------------
RV8-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Fri 03/05/10: 0
----------------------------------------------------------
oday's Message Index:
---------------------
et=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List
p://forums.matronics.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
_______________________________ Message 5 ______________________________
_______
rom: Speedy11(at)aol.com
ubject: RV8-List: Re: RV8- Air Vents
ill,
put my front cockpit air vents down low below the panel. I have three
ents.
here are several reasons I mounted the vents low in the cockpit.
1. I don't like air (warm or cool) blowing directly in my face.
2. I wanted to be able to direct warm air for the rear cockpit along
he side of the cockpit over the passengers knee so there would be no
bstructions. Other builders reported that getting warm air to the RCP was
ifficult.
3. I wanted to keep the main panel as uncluttered as possible.
4. I wanted to keep the ducting hidden.
have three vents because the right side can be either heat or cool while
he left side is cool only. The right side splits the air to two vents -
ne of which can be directed on my feet.
n practice, the setup has worked well for me. I can get enough cool air
n the summer without it blowing directly in my face and heat if needed in
he winter. I haven't tested the heat down the sidewall for the passenger
et - although I can certainly direct the air to the RCP.
couple of things to keep in mind about my setup though is that I used the
lower portion of the front baggage for the main battery and I've routed
iring, fuel lines, and air ducting through there. On the left side of th
e
ootwell, I added a matching cover on the left side which conceals the left
ent ducting.
f you care to see what I've done, you can view my web photos at
http://www.rv-8a.net/2007.htm_ (http://www.rv-8a.net/2007.htm) and scrol
l
own to
8 Feb 07, 12 Mar 07, and 22 Apr 07. Then see the overall cockpit at
http://www.rv-8a.net/2009APR.htm_ (http://www.rv-8a.net/2009APR.htm) and
croll
own to 22 Apr 09. Click on the photo to see a large version and you can
pot the vents if you look carefully below the panel.
ny questions - let me know.
tan Sutterfield
n the RV-8 who has their front air vent valve below the panel instead
of
ut the face ? I'm not sure if I locate the vent below the panel I can ge
a face full of air and most times that what needs cooling the most. Who
as their vent(s) set up under the panel that can say ? I've seen severa
panels so configured on the Van's air force "Show use your panel" thread
o I know some fellows have it that way. Hope to hear from someone, Bill
_______________________________ Message 6 ______________________________
_______
rom: "Timothy E. Cone"
ubject: Re: RV8-List: Re: RV8- Air Vents
Mine is out the bottom and I love it.
Here's a pic
----- Original Message -----
From: japhillipsga(at)aol.com
To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2010 10:03 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8- Air Vents
On the RV-8 who has their front air vent valve below the panel
nstead of out the face ? I'm not sure if I locate the vent below the
anel I can get a face full of air and most times that what needs
ooling the most. Who has their vent(s) set up under the panel that can
ay ? I've seen several panels so configured on the Van's air force
Show use your panel" thread so I know some fellows have it that way.
ope to hear from someone, Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: RV8-List Digest Server <rv8-list(at)matronics.com>
To: RV8-List Digest List
Sent: Sat, Mar 6, 2010 2:58 am
Subject: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/05/10
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
oday's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the
wo Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
ormatted
n HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
nd Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
f the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
uch as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
ttp://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&
hapter 10-03-05&Archive=RV8
Text Version:
ttp://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&C
apter 10-03-05&Archive=RV8
====================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
=====================
----------------------------------------------------------
RV8-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Fri 03/05/10: 0
----------------------------------------------------------
oday's Message Index:
---------------------
et=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List
p://forums.matronics.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
_______________________________ Message 7 ______________________________
_______
rom: Speedy11(at)AOL.com
ubject: RV8-List: Princeton Fuel Probes
Matt,
noticed on your log that you used the Princeton Fuel Probes. I have had
ERY poor performance from them. I have calibrated them to the engine
onitor 8 times and they are still inaccurate. I am contemplating removing
hem, throwing them away, and replacing them with regular floats. The nor
mal
floats can not possibly be any more inaccurate.
've talked to both the Princeton guy and to the AFS engine monitors
olks. No success.
'd be interested to hear if other builders have used the probes and found
hem to be inaccurate.
tan Sutterfield
-========================
========================
===========
-= - The RV8-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List
-
-========================
========================
===========
-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
-
-= --> http://forums.matronics.com
-
-========================
========================
===========
-= - List Contribution Web Site -
-= Thank you for your generous support!
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-========================
========================
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neal George" <n8zg(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | FS: Bose Aviation Headset X |
Listers -
I have accumulated too many headsets.
For Sale:
Bose X with straight cord, GA plugs and battery pack in like-new condition.
Original box and carry case.
Asking $850, shipped CONUS
Neal George
Work - 850-884-7165
Cell - 850-218-4838
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jimbean6(at)verizon.net |
| Subject: | Slowing down the trim |
We all know that the usual trim setup used in the RV's and others is very touchy.
Early in building my RV-8 I built and installed a 9 volt power supply intending
to power the headsets with it.
Foolish boy, that doesn't work.
Since the 9 volts was already there I tried it on the trim motor, leaving the trim
indicator supply at 14 volts.
Everything has been working fine with the trim just running slower, a good thing.
I realize that most people will not want to bother installing a separate 9 volt
supply but it does work.
For those interested the shack 5 amp regulator has a schematic and parts list on
the back of the package.
Contact me off-line for my trim schematic. It is in autocad format.
Jim Bean
jimbean6(at)verizon.net
RV-8 81110 80 hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Slowing down the trim |
| From: | cs(at)charlesstringham.com |
Cool idea, but couldn't you just install a rheostat to throttle back on the voltage
to the trim system instead of putting in another lower voltage system? This
way you could have the speed trim and the fine trim. Does your low voltage
system make it easier to trim out in cruise?
------Original Message------
From: jimbean6(at)verizon.net
Sender: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
ReplyTo: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV8-List: Slowing down the trim
Sent: Mar 13, 2010 12:07 PM
We all know that the usual trim setup used in the RV's and others is very touchy.
Early in building my RV-8 I built and installed a 9 volt power supply intending
to power the headsets with it.
Foolish boy, that doesn't work.
Since the 9 volts was already there I tried it on the trim motor, leaving the trim
indicator supply at 14 volts.
Everything has been working fine with the trim just running slower, a good thing.
I realize that most people will not want to bother installing a separate 9 volt
supply but it does work.
For those interested the shack 5 amp regulator has a schematic and parts list on
the back of the package.
Contact me off-line for my trim schematic. It is in autocad format.
Jim Bean
jimbean6(at)verizon.net
RV-8 81110 80 hours.
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Slowing down the trimSlowing down the trim |
| From: | JT McCracken <jtmccracken(at)gmail.com> |
Hi Guys,
I used the aircraft extras airspeed switch and relay board to solve this
problem....
Details can be found here- www.aircraftextras.com/RelaySpeedCont1.htm
Regards,
JT
www.jtsrv8project.blogspot.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 03/13/10 |
| From: | Martin Sobel <rv8vator(at)comcast.net> |
There are two systems on the market that slow down the trim motor at higher
air speeds. (I find this to be a problem with all of the normal
installations.)
Both use an airspeed sensor.
One is part of a box that makes wiring the airplane simpler and the other is
by TCW Technologies: www.tcwtech.com
Both available from Steinair.com
Martin Sobel
RV-8 Wings
On 3/14/10 4:59 AM, "RV8-List Digest Server" wrote:
> *
>
> =================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> =================================================
>
> Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
> of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter=2
> 010-03-13&Archive=RV8
>
> Text Version:
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter
> 10-03-13&Archive=RV8
>
>
> ===============================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ===============================================
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> RV8-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Sat 03/13/10: 2
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 12:23 PM - Slowing down the trim (jimbean6(at)verizon.net)
> 2. 02:45 PM - Re: Slowing down the trim (cs(at)charlesstringham.com)
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
> _____________________________________
>
>
> From: jimbean6(at)verizon.net
> Subject: RV8-List: Slowing down the trim
>
>
> We all know that the usual trim setup used in the RV's and others is very
August 15, 2009 - March 14, 2010
RV8-Archive.digest.vol-ao