RotaxEngines-Archive.digest.vol-be
May 04, 2013 - October 24, 2013
airman - Maintenance Rated=0ARotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated=0AHom
e 520-574-1080- TRY HOME FIRST=0ACell 520-349-7056=0A=0A=0ARead this topi
c online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399904#39
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hugh McKay" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 05/03/13 |
Wouldn=92t a gascolator and proper sized filter upstream of the engine
(between the main fuel tank and the carbs) prevent this problem?
Hugh G. McKay III, P.E.
Allegro 2000
Rotax 912 UL
From: Stan Tew
Sent: Saturday, May 04, 2013 9:39 AM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 1 Msgs -
05/03/13
Another place to look for debris while you have the carb in your hand is
the inlet line. Although the id of the fuel line is 1/4 going over the
hose barb down at the bottom where the fuel actually flows into the
float bowl the orifice is MUCH smaller. Bits of debris can cover the
orifice preventing any fuel from entering the float bowl. The other
cylinder mayor may not be okay but the engine will not run enough to
produce power on 1 cylinder. Check both!
I say this from experience. I had to land my Kitfox II in the trees due
to such obstruction. I was unhurt but the plane was badly damaged
STAN 2
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
From: RotaxEngines-List Digest Server <rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 4, 2013 2:00 AM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 05/03/13
*
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
Today's complete RotaxEngines-List Digest can also be found in either of
the
two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
formatted
in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
of the RotaxEngines-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text
editor
such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&
Chapter 13-05-03&Archive=RotaxEngines
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&C
hapter 13-05-03&Archive=RotaxEngines
======================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
======================
----------------------------------------------------------
RotaxEngines-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Fri 05/03/13: 1
----------------------------------------------------------
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:05 AM - Carb bowl obstruction - Don't be stranded (Roger Lee)
________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Carb bowl obstruction - Don't be stranded
From: "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com>
Hi Guys,
Your flying along and the engine looses power to about 3800-4000 rpm and
runs rough.
It could be a couple of things, but first suspect a carb bowl main jet
obstruction.
Here is a simple tip that may keep you flying and get your rpm back
and if that fails how to do a self rescue and not be stranded and all
you need
is a screwdriver. You can do this fix and be back in the air in 30
minutes.
I have done this and know it works.
The debris may never be detected during a run up on the ground. There
usually isn't
enough fuel flow for a good main jet suction and no sloshing or
turbulence
of the fuel in the carb bowl. In cruise flight you now have a good fuel
flow,
turbulence within the bowl and plenty of upward suction to draw that
piece
of debris right up against the main jet.
Here is an in air fix you can try, but there is no guarantee. While you
are doing
this next maneuver you should be looking for an appropriate landing
spot. Either
an airfield or a decent road.
Your first instinct is to go full throttle to get more rpm.That only
holds the
debris harder against the main jet, but it is human nature to try for
more rpm.
Once that fails and providing you have a little altitude pull the
throttle back
to idle and glide for about 15 seconds with a little side to side "S"
turns.
When the throttle is back at idle the main jet is not in play and the
suction
is gone allowing the debris to hopefully fall away and settle to a lower
point.
The idle jet is separate from the main jet. After your 15 second glide
slowly
advance the throttle back to cruise rpm and head for an airport.
If this in air idle rpm fix doesn't work then continue to a safe
landing.
Once on the ground then take off the upper cowl. Pop the carb retention
spring
off, then loosen the carb flange screw and push the carb back out of the
rubber
flange socket. It's snug so push hard. If you have the older stainless
steel
fuel supply lines you can now lift the carb upward enough to clear the
drip tray
to take the carb bowl off. If you have the red Teflon fuel lines all the
better
because you can lift the carbs and rotate them out towards you to have a
little better access to the bowl and bale. If you don't have a drip tray
then
this is real easy.
Now push or pry with your screwdriver the carb bowl bale back towards
the firewall.
Drop the carb bowl and look for your debris and toss the bad fuel out.
Put
the carb bowl back in place making sure it fits into its mounting
outside edge
grove and pull the bale back in place. Be mindful of the bowl gasket.
Push
the carb back into the rubber flange until you hear and feel it kind of
seat in
place. You will feel it snap in place and the carb will look like it is
in far
enough that it can't go any further. Tighten the rubber flange retention
ring
screw and do the same procedure to the other side. Once both are done
put the
cowl on and test run at full throttle for about 5 minutes.
If you have the stock Rotax airbox then you will need to loosen the
airbox side
rubber flange and slide it out of the way to push the carb back out of
the rubber
flange. So both sides of the carb gets the rubber flange loosened.
You should now be ready to take off and head for home.
It works.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=JdS7OtbcxwY
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399904#399904
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEnginp; -->
http:=======================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 05/03/13 |
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
Stan:
Sorry for your "experience" and glad you walked away from it.
But why does Rotax have so many stupid design faults?
I know it is not your fault, but is there a difference between Rotax
experimental and Rotax certified?
*Barry*
> Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Carb bowl obstruction - Don't be stranded
> From: "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com>
>
>
> Hi Guys,
>
> Your flying along and the engine looses power to about 3800-4000 rpm and
> runs rough.
> It could be a couple of things, but first suspect a carb bowl main jet
> obstruction.
> Here is a simple tip that may keep you flying and get your rpm back
> and if that fails how to do a self rescue and not be stranded and all you
> need
> is a screwdriver. You can do this fix and be back in the air in 30 minutes.
> I have done this and know it works.
>
> The debris may never be detected during a run up on the ground. There
> usually isn't
> enough fuel flow for a good main jet suction and no sloshing or turbulence
> of the fuel in the carb bowl. In cruise flight you now have a good fuel
> flow,
> turbulence within the bowl and plenty of upward suction to draw that piece
> of debris right up against the main jet.
>
> Here is an in air fix you can try, but there is no guarantee. While you
> are doing
> this next maneuver you should be looking for an appropriate landing spot.
> Either
> an airfield or a decent road.
> Your first instinct is to go full throttle to get more rpm.That only holds
> the
> debris harder against the main jet, but it is human nature to try for more
> rpm.
> Once that fails and providing you have a little altitude pull the throttle
> back
> to idle and glide for about 15 seconds with a little side to side "S"
> turns.
> When the throttle is back at idle the main jet is not in play and the
> suction
> is gone allowing the debris to hopefully fall away and settle to a lower
> point.
> The idle jet is separate from the main jet. After your 15 second glide
> slowly
> advance the throttle back to cruise rpm and head for an airport.
>
> If this in air idle rpm fix doesn't work then continue to a safe landing.
> Once on the ground then take off the upper cowl. Pop the carb retention
> spring
> off, then loosen the carb flange screw and push the carb back out of the
> rubber
> flange socket. It's snug so push hard. If you have the older stainless
> steel
> fuel supply lines you can now lift the carb upward enough to clear the
> drip tray
> to take the carb bowl off. If you have the red Teflon fuel lines all the
> better
> because you can lift the carbs and rotate them out towards you to have a
> little better access to the bowl and bale. If you don't have a drip tray
> then
> this is real easy.
> Now push or pry with your screwdriver the carb bowl bale back towards the
> firewall.
> Drop the carb bowl and look for your debris and toss the bad fuel out. Put
> the carb bowl back in place making sure it fits into its mounting outside
> edge
> grove and pull the bale back in place. Be mindful of the bowl gasket. Push
> the carb back into the rubber flange until you hear and feel it kind of
> seat in
> place. You will feel it snap in place and the carb will look like it is in
> far
> enough that it can't go any further. Tighten the rubber flange retention
> ring
> screw and do the same procedure to the other side. Once both are done put
> the
> cowl on and test run at full throttle for about 5 minutes.
>
> If you have the stock Rotax airbox then you will need to loosen the airbox
> side
> rubber flange and slide it out of the way to push the carb back out of the
> rubber
> flange. So both sides of the carb gets the rubber flange loosened.
>
> You should now be ready to take off and head for home.
>
> It works.
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=JdS7OtbcxwY
>
> --------
> Roger Lee
> Tucson, Az.
> Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
> Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
> Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
> Cell 520-349-7056
>
>
> <http://forums.matronics.com/>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 05/03/13 |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Hugh,
The problem has been that not everyone has a gascolator or a fuel filter far enough
downstream. the main hose offenders isn't from hose before the fuel pump
because it has a filter screen inside, but from hose past the pump. The fuel hose
from the pump pressure side out is a problem at times. Some 912's have the
stainless steel lines mounted from the fuel distribution block mounted on the
carb balance tube, some don't. Some have the red Teflon fuel line from this point
and some have just rubber fuel line right out of the pump to the carbs.
Read this and you'll get a better handle on what some of the issues have been.
My original post here was to just give you another tool in your mental toolbox
for the "just in case" scenario.
http://www.rotax-owner.com/rotax-blog/item/21-rotax-5-year-rubber-replacement-the-installation-considerations
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399964#399964
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 05/03/13 |
| From: | Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com> |
Barry,
Debris blocking some portion of the fuel flow through the carb is not a
design fault. That can happen to any carb engine. About 4 months ago I
had a friend go off the end of the runway at his home airport because a
tiny piece of debris blocked the main jet in the carb on his Lycoming
engine just as he lifted off.
The Rotax 9xx series of engines are fine power plants. They are
different than your typical Lycoming or Continental but they are all
excellent power plants.
There's no difference between the certified Rotax and the uncertified
Rotax other than paperwork and application.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop.
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger(at)mac.com
On May 4, 2013, at 10:39 AM, FLYaDIVE wrote:
Stan:
Sorry for your "experience" and glad you walked away from it.
But why does Rotax have so many stupid design faults?
I know it is not your fault, but is there a difference between Rotax
experimental and Rotax certified?
Barry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stan Tew <stan_tew(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 05/04/13 |
You'd think that a gascolator , fuel filter, and/or very small opening in t
he fuel pump diaphragm would catch these particles. That's what I thought.
WRONG! I have no idea how those particles got there, but once there, they w
ere devastating. They may have actually been part of the fuel line past all
those devices. While I can't totally blame ethanol I believe it was a sign
ificant contributing factor. Anyway, it doesn't take all that long to clean
the system. It takes much longer to repair the damage.=0A=0A-=0ASTAN 2
=0AN29TD=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0A From: RotaxEngines-
List Digest Server =0ATo: RotaxEngines-Lis
t Digest List =0ASent: Sunday, May
5, 2013 2:00 AM=0ASubject: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 05/04/13=0A
=0A=0A*=0A=0A====================
======0A- Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive=0A=
=========================0A
=0AToday's complete RotaxEngines-List Digest can also be found in either of
the =0Atwo Web Links listed below.- The .html file includes the Digest f
ormatted =0Ain HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked
Indexes =0Aand Message Navigation.- The .txt file includes the plain ASC
II version =0Aof the RotaxEngines-List Digest and can be viewed with a gene
ric text editor =0Asuch as Notepad or with a web browser. =0A=0AHTML Versio
n:=0A=0A- - http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=8270
1&View=html&Chapter 13-05-04&Archive=RotaxEngines=0A=0AText Version
:=0A=0A- - http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701
&View=txt&Chapter 13-05-04&Archive=RotaxEngines=0A=0A=0A===
=====================0A- EMail V
ersion of Today's List Digest Archive=0A===========
=============0A=0A=0A- - - - - ---------
-------------------------------------------------=0A- - - - - -
- - - - - - - RotaxEngines-List Digest Archive=0A- -
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ---=0A
- - - - - - - - - - Total Messages Posted Sat 05/04/13
: 4=0A- - - - - ------------------------------------------------
----------=0A=0A=0AToday's Message Index:=0A----------------------=0A=0A-
- 1. 06:39 AM - Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 05/03/13- (Sta
n Tew)=0A- - 2. 07:25 AM - Re: Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 1 Msgs -
05/03/13- (Hugh McKay)=0A- - 3. 08:39 AM - Re: Re: RotaxEngines-List
Digest: 1 Msgs - 05/03/13- (FLYaDIVE)=0A- - 4. 03:07 PM - Re: Rotax
Engines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 05/03/13- (Roger Lee)=0A=0A=0A=0A__________
______________________- Message 1- ____________________________________
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 05/03/13
=0A=0AAnother place to look for debris while you have the carb in your hand
is th=0Ae inlet line. Although the id of the fuel line is 1/4 going over t
he hose b=0Aarb down at the bottom where the fuel actually flows into the f
loat bowl th=0Ae orifice is MUCH smaller. Bits of debris can cover the orif
ice preventing =0Aany fuel from entering the float bowl. The other cylinder
mayor may not be =0Aokay but the engine will not run enough to produce pow
er on 1 cylinder. Che=0Ack both!=0A=0A=0AI say this from experience.
I had to land my Kitfox II in =0Athe trees due to such obstruction. I was u
nhurt but the plane was badly dam=0Aaged=0A=0A-=0ASTAN 2=0A=0A=
0A________________________________=0A From: Ro=0AtaxEngines-List Digest S
erver =0ATo: Rotax=0AEngines-List Digest
List =0ASent: =0ASaturday, May
4, 2013 2:00 AM=0ASubject: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 1 Msgs -=0A05/03/13
=0A =0A=0A*=0A=0A================
=0A==========0A-- Online Versions of Today's List Dig
est A=0Archive=0A==================
=====0A====0A=0AToday's complete RotaxEngines-List Digest
can also be found =0Ain either of the =0Atwo Web Links listed below.- Th
e .html file includes =0Athe Digest formatted =0Ain HTML for viewing with
a web browser and features=0AHyperlinked Indexes =0Aand Message Navigati
on.- The .txt file includes t=0Ahe plain ASCII version =0Aof the RotaxEng
ines-List Digest and can be viewed=0Awith a generic text editor =0Asuch a
s Notepad or with a web browser. =0A=0A=0AHTML Version:=0A=0A- - ht
tp://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.ph=0Ap?Style=82701&View=html&C
hapter 13-05-03&Archive=RotaxEngines=0A=0A=0AText Version:=0A=0A-
- http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.ph=0Ap?Style=82701&View=t
xt&Chapter 13-05-03&Archive=RotaxEngines=0A=0A=0A=0A=====
===================0A=0A-- EMail Ve
rsion of Today's List Digest Archive=0A=======0A====
==============0A=0A=0A- - - -=0A-- ------
----------------------------------------------------=0A- - =0A- - - - - -
- - - - -- RotaxEngines-List Digest Archi=0Ave=0A- - - - - - - - - - -
- - - - - - =0A- - ---=0A- - - - - - - - - -- Total Messages Poste=0Ad
Fri 05/03/13: 1=0A- - - - -- ----------------------------------=0A----
--------------------=0A=0A=0AToday's Message Index:=0A-------------
----=0A-----=0A=0A- -- 1. 07:05 AM - Carb bowl obstruction - Don't be
stranded=0A- (Roger Lee)=0A=0A=0A=0A______________________________
__- Message 1-=0A_____________________________________=0A=0A=0ATime:
- Don't be stranded=0AFrom=0A: "Roger Lee" =0A=
0A=0AHi Guys,=0A=0AYour flying along=0Aand the engine looses power to
about 3800-4000 rpm and runs rough.=0AIt co=0Auld be a couple of things,
but first suspect a carb bowl main jet obstructi=0Aon.=0AHere is a simpl
e tip that may keep you flying and get your rpm back=0A=0Aand if that fai
ls how to do a self rescue and not be stranded and all yo=0Au need=0Ais a
screwdriver. You can do this fix and be back in the air in 30=0Aminutes.
=0AI have done this and know it works.=0A=0AThe debris may never b=0A
e detected during a run up on the ground. There usually isn't=0Aenough fu
el=0Aflow- for a good main jet suction and no sloshing or turbulence=0Aof
the=0Afuel in the carb bowl. In cruise flight you now have a good fuel flo
w,=0At=0Aurbulence within the bowl and plenty of upward suction to draw t
hat piece=0A=0Aof debris right up against the main jet.=0A=0AHere is
an in air fix you =0Acan try, but there is no guarantee. While you are doin
g=0Athis next maneuve=0Ar you should be looking for an appropriate landin
g spot. Either=0Aan airfie=0Ald or a decent road. =0AYour first instinc
t is to go full throttle to get m=0Aore rpm.That only holds the=0Adebris
harder against the main jet, but it is=0Ahuman nature to try for more rpm.
=0AOnce that fails and providing you have=0Aa little altitude pull the th
rottle back=0Ato idle and glide for about 15 =0Aseconds with a little- si
de to side "S" turns.=0AWhen the throttle is bac=0Ak at idle the main jet
is not in play and the suction=0Ais gone allowing th=0Ae debris to hopef
ully fall away and settle to a lower point.=0AThe idle jet=0Ais separate
from the main jet. After your 15 second glide slowly=0Aadvance=0Athe thro
ttle back to cruise rpm and head for an airport.=0A=0AIf this in a=0Air
idle rpm fix doesn't work then continue to a safe landing.=0AOnce on the
=0Aground then take off the upper cowl. Pop the carb retention spring=0Ao
ff, =0Athen loosen the carb flange screw and push the carb back out of the
rubber=0A=0Aflange socket. It's snug so push hard. If you have the older
stainless s=0Ateel=0Afuel supply lines you can now lift the carb upward e
nough to clear t=0Ahe drip tray=0Ato take the carb bowl off. If you have
the red Teflon fuel l=0Aines all the better=0Abecause you can lift the ca
rbs and rotate them out to=0Awards you to have a=0Alittle better access t
o the bowl and bale. If you don=0A't have a drip tray then=0Athis is real
easy.=0ANow push or pry with your s=0Acrewdriver the carb bowl bale back
towards the firewall.=0ADrop the carb bo=0Awl and look for your debris a
nd toss the bad fuel out. Put=0Athe carb bowl =0Aback in place making sur
e it fits into its mounting outside edge=0Agrove an=0Ad pull the bale bac
k in place. Be mindful of the bowl gasket. Push=0Athe ca=0Arb back into t
he rubber flange until you hear and feel it kind of seat in=0A=0Aplace. Y
ou will feel it snap in place and the carb will look like it is =0Ain far
=0Aenough that it can't go any further. Tighten the rubber flange ret=0Ae
ntion ring=0Ascrew and do the same procedure to the other side. Once both
=0Aare done put the=0Acowl on and test run at full throttle for about 5
minute=0As. =0A=0AIf you have the stock Rotax airbox then you will need
to loosen th=0Ae airbox side=0Arubber flange and slide it out of the way
to push the carb =0Aback out of the rubber=0Aflange. So both sides of th
e carb gets the rubber =0Aflange loosened.=0A=0AYou should now be ready
to take off and head for home=0A.=0A=0AIt works.=0A=0Ahttp://www.y
outube.com/watch?feature=player_embedde=0Ad&v=JdS7OtbcxwY=0A=0A----
----=0ARoger Lee=0ATucson, Az.=0ALight Sport Rep=0Aairman - Maintenan
ce Rated=0ARotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated=0AHom=0Ae 520-574-1
080- TRY HOME FIRST=0ACell 520-349-7056=0A=0A=0ARead this topi=0Ac
online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399904#
39=0A==0A=0A________________________________- Message 2- ____________
Kay" =0ASubject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Re: RotaxEng
ines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 05/03/13=0A=0AWouldn=92t a gascolator and prop
er sized filter upstream of the engine =0A(between the main fuel tank and t
he carbs) prevent this problem?=0A=0AHugh G. McKay III, P.E.=0AAllegro 2000
=0ARotax 912 UL=0A=0A=0AFrom: Stan Tew =0ASent: Saturday, May 04, 2013 9:39
AM=0ASubject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 1 Msgs -
=0A05/03/13=0A=0AAnother place to look for debris while you have the carb i
n your hand is =0Athe inlet line. Although the id of the fuel line is 1/4 g
oing over the =0Ahose barb down at the bottom where the fuel actually flows
into the =0Afloat bowl the orifice is MUCH smaller. Bits of debris can cov
er the =0Aorifice preventing any fuel from entering the float bowl. The oth
er =0Acylinder mayor may not be okay but the engine will not run enough to
=0Aproduce power on 1 cylinder. Check both!=0A=0A=0AI say this from experie
nce. I had to land my Kitfox II in the trees due =0Ato such obstruction. I
was unhurt but the plane was badly damaged=0A=0A=0ASTAN 2=0A=0A=0A---------
----------------------------------------------------------------=0A-------
=0AFrom: RotaxEngines-List Digest Server <rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com>
=0A =0ASent: Saturday, May 4, 2013
2:00 AM=0ASubject: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 05/03/13=0A=0A=0A*=0A
=0A=0A- Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive=0A=0A=0AToday's co
mplete RotaxEngines-List Digest can also be found in either of =0Athe =0Atw
o Web Links listed below.- The .html file includes the Digest =0Aformatte
d =0Ain HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexe
s =0Aand Message Navigation.- The .txt file includes the plain ASCII vers
ion =0Aof the RotaxEngines-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic tex
t =0Aeditor =0Asuch as Notepad or with a web browser. =0A=0AHTML Version:
=0A=0A- - =0Ahttp://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=827
01&View=html&=0AChapter 13-05-03&Archive=RotaxEngines=0A=0AText Version
:=0A=0A- - =0Ahttp://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82
701&View=txt&C=0Ahapter 13-05-03&Archive=RotaxEngines=0A=0A=0A===
====================0A- EMail Versi
on of Today's List Digest Archive=0A=============
==========0A=0A=0A- - - - - -------------------
---------------------------------------=0A- - - - - - - -
- - - - - RotaxEngines-List Digest Archive=0A- - - - -
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - ---=0A- - -
- - - - - - - Total Messages Posted Fri 05/03/13: 1=0A- -
- - - ----------------------------------------------------------=0A
=0A=0AToday's Message Index:=0A----------------------=0A=0A- - 1. 07:05
AM - Carb bowl obstruction - Don't be stranded- (Roger Lee)=0A=0A=0A____
____________________________- Message 1- =0A___________________________
arb bowl obstruction - Don't be stranded=0AFrom: "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1@yah
oo.com>=0A=0A=0AHi Guys,=0A=0AYour flying along and the engine looses power
to about 3800-4000 rpm and =0Aruns rough.=0AIt could be a couple of things
, but first suspect a carb bowl main jet =0Aobstruction.=0AHere is a simple
tip that may keep you flying and get your rpm back=0Aand if that fails how
to do a self rescue and not be stranded and all =0Ayou need=0Ais a screwdr
iver. You can do this fix and be back in the air in 30 =0Aminutes.=0AI have
done this and know it works.=0A=0AThe debris may never be detected during
a run up on the ground. There =0Ausually isn't=0Aenough fuel flow- for a
good main jet suction and no sloshing or =0Aturbulence=0Aof the fuel in the
carb bowl. In cruise flight you now have a good fuel =0Aflow,=0Aturbulence
within the bowl and plenty of upward suction to draw that =0Apiece=0Aof de
bris right up against the main jet.=0A=0AHere is an in air fix you can try,
but there is no guarantee. While you =0Aare doing=0Athis next maneuver you
should be looking for an appropriate landing =0Aspot. Either=0Aan airfield
or a decent road. =0AYour first instinct is to go full throttle to get mor
e rpm.That only =0Aholds the=0Adebris harder against the main jet, but it i
s human nature to try for =0Amore rpm.=0AOnce that fails and providing you
have a little altitude pull the =0Athrottle back=0Ato idle and glide for ab
out 15 seconds with a little- side to side "S" =0Aturns.=0AWhen the throt
tle is back at idle the main jet is not in play and the =0Asuction=0Ais gon
e allowing the debris to hopefully fall away and settle to a lower =0Apoint
.=0AThe idle jet is separate from the main jet. After your 15 second glide
=0Aslowly=0Aadvance the throttle back to cruise rpm and head for an airport
.=0A=0AIf this in air idle rpm fix doesn't work then continue to a safe =0A
landing.=0AOnce on the ground then take off the upper cowl. Pop the carb re
tention =0Aspring=0Aoff, then loosen the carb flange screw and push the car
b back out of the =0Arubber=0Aflange socket. It's snug so push hard. If you
have the older stainless =0Asteel=0Afuel supply lines you can now lift the
carb upward enough to clear the =0Adrip tray=0Ato take the carb bowl off.
If you have the red Teflon fuel lines all the =0Abetter=0Abecause you can l
ift the carbs and rotate them out towards you to have a=0Alittle better acc
ess to the bowl and bale. If you don't have a drip tray =0Athen=0Athis is r
eal easy.=0ANow push or pry with your screwdriver the carb bowl bale back t
owards =0Athe firewall.=0ADrop the carb bowl and look for your debris and t
oss the bad fuel out. =0APut=0Athe carb bowl back in place making sure it f
its into its mounting =0Aoutside edge=0Agrove and pull the bale back in pla
ce. Be mindful of the bowl gasket. =0APush=0Athe carb back into the rubber
flange until you hear and feel it kind of =0Aseat in=0Aplace. You will feel
it snap in place and the carb will look like it is =0Ain far=0Aenough that
it can't go any further. Tighten the rubber flange retention =0Aring=0Ascr
ew and do the same procedure to the other side. Once both are done =0Aput t
he=0Acowl on and test run at full throttle for about 5 minutes. =0A=0AIf yo
u have the stock Rotax airbox then you will need to loosen the =0Aairbox si
de=0Arubber flange and slide it out of the way to push the carb back out of
=0Athe rubber=0Aflange. So both sides of the carb gets the rubber flange l
oosened.=0A=0AYou should now be ready to take off and head for home.=0A=0AI
t works.=0A=0Ahttp://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Jd
S7OtbcxwY=0A=0A--------=0ARoger Lee=0ATucson, Az.=0ALight Sport Repairman -
Maintenance Rated=0ARotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated=0AHome 520-57
4-1080- TRY HOME FIRST=0ACell 520-349-7056=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online
here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399904#399904=0A
=0A=0Ahttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEnginp; --> =0Ahttp:===
=====================0A=0A=0A______
__________________________- Message 3- ________________________________
: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 05/03/13=0AFrom: FLYaDIVE <flyadive@gm
ail.com>=0A=0AStan:=0A=0ASorry for your "experience" and glad you walked aw
ay from it.=0ABut why does Rotax have so many stupid design faults?=0AI kno
w it is not your fault, but is there a difference between Rotax=0Aexperimen
ubject: RotaxEngines-List: Carb bowl obstruction - Don't be stranded=0A> Fr
om: "Roger Lee" =0A>=0A>=0A> Hi Guys,=0A>=0A> Your fly
ing along and the engine looses power to about 3800-4000 rpm and=0A> runs r
ough.=0A> It could be a couple of things, but first suspect a carb bowl mai
n jet=0A> obstruction.=0A> Here is a simple tip that may keep you flying an
d get your rpm back=0A> and if that fails how to do a self rescue and not b
e stranded and all you=0A> need=0A> is a screwdriver. You can do this fix a
nd be back in the air in 30 minutes.=0A> I have done this and know it works
.=0A>=0A> The debris may never be detected during a run up on the ground. T
here=0A> usually isn't=0A> enough fuel flow- for a good main jet suction
and no sloshing or turbulence=0A> of the fuel in the carb bowl. In cruise f
light you now have a good fuel=0A> flow,=0A> turbulence within the bowl and
plenty of upward suction to draw that piece=0A> of debris right up against
the main jet.=0A>=0A> Here is an in air fix you can try, but there is no g
uarantee. While you=0A> are doing=0A> this next maneuver you should be look
ing for an appropriate landing spot.=0A> Either=0A> an airfield or a decent
road.=0A> Your first instinct is to go full throttle to get more rpm.That
only holds=0A> the=0A> debris harder against the main jet, but it is human
nature to try for more=0A> rpm.=0A> Once that fails and providing you have
a little altitude pull the throttle=0A> back=0A> to idle and glide for abou
t 15 seconds with a little- side to side "S"=0A> turns.=0A> When the thro
ttle is back at idle the main jet is not in play and the=0A> suction=0A> is
gone allowing the debris to hopefully fall away and settle to a lower=0A>
point.=0A> The idle jet is separate from the main jet. After your 15 second
glide=0A> slowly=0A> advance the throttle back to cruise rpm and head for
an airport.=0A>=0A> If this in air idle rpm fix doesn't work then continue
to a safe landing.=0A> Once on the ground then take off the upper cowl. Pop
the carb retention=0A> spring=0A> off, then loosen the carb flange screw a
nd push the carb back out of the=0A> rubber=0A> flange socket. It's snug so
push hard. If you have the older stainless=0A> steel=0A> fuel supply lines
you can now lift the carb upward enough to clear the=0A> drip tray=0A> to
take the carb bowl off. If you have the red Teflon fuel lines all the=0A> b
etter=0A> because you can lift the carbs and rotate them out towards you to
have a=0A> little better access to the bowl and bale. If you don't have a
drip tray=0A> then=0A> this is real easy.=0A> Now push or pry with your scr
ewdriver the carb bowl bale back towards the=0A> firewall.=0A> Drop the car
b bowl and look for your debris and toss the bad fuel out. Put=0A> the carb
bowl back in place making sure it fits into its mounting outside=0A> edge
=0A> grove and pull the bale back in place. Be mindful of the bowl gasket.
Push=0A> the carb back into the rubber flange until you hear and feel it ki
nd of=0A> seat in=0A> place. You will feel it snap in place and the carb wi
ll look like it is in=0A> far=0A> enough that it can't go any further. Tigh
ten the rubber flange retention=0A> ring=0A> screw and do the same procedur
e to the other side. Once both are done put=0A> the=0A> cowl on and test ru
n at full throttle for about 5 minutes.=0A>=0A> If you have the stock Rotax
airbox then you will need to loosen the airbox=0A> side=0A> rubber flange
and slide it out of the way to push the carb back out of the=0A> rubber=0A>
flange. So both sides of the carb gets the rubber flange loosened.=0A>=0A>
You should now be ready to take off and head for home.=0A>=0A> It works.
=0A>=0A> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=JdS7Otb
cxwY=0A>=0A> --------=0A> Roger Lee=0A> Tucson, Az.=0A> Light Sport Repairm
an - Maintenance Rated=0A> Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated=0A> Hom
e 520-574-1080- TRY HOME FIRST=0A> Cell 520-349-7056=0A>=0A>=0A> <http://
forums.matronics.com/>=0A>=0A=0A________________________________- Message
S=0ASubject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 05/0
3/13=0AFrom: "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com>=0A=0A=0AHi Hugh,=0A=0AThe pr
oblem has been that not everyone has a gascolator or a fuel filter far enou
gh=0Adownstream. the main hose offenders isn't from hose before the fuel pu
mp=0Abecause it has a filter screen inside, but from hose past the pump. Th
e fuel hose=0Afrom the pump pressure side out is a problem at times. Some 9
12's have the=0Astainless steel lines mounted from the fuel distribution bl
ock mounted on the=0Acarb balance tube, some don't. Some have the red Teflo
n fuel line from this point=0Aand some have just rubber fuel line right out
of the pump to the carbs.=0A=0ARead this and you'll get a better handle on
what some of the issues have been.=0AMy original post here was to just giv
e you another tool in your mental toolbox=0Afor the "just in case" scenario
.=0A=0Ahttp://www.rotax-owner.com/rotax-blog/item/21-rotax-5-year-rubber-re
placement-the-installation-considerations=0A=0A--------=0ARoger Lee=0ATucso
n, Az.=0ALight Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated=0ARotax Repair Center -
Heavy Maint. Rated=0AHome 520-574-1080- TRY HOME FIRST=0ACell 520-349-705
6=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/vie
=- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -Matt Dralle
========
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 05/03/13 |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Barry,
These things aren't Rotax faults they are human caused errors. They can happen
to any engine and any engine can have a mechanical failure. If that wasn't so
no engine or machine would need a warranty or ever need a spare part. We make
them and we work on them.
We are the problem.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=400029#400029
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Hard start 912ULS |
| From: | "johnelling" <jelling(at)newmexico.com> |
Starting my 912 has been increasingly difficult. it seems as if the starter has
a hard time turning over the engine (it is a high-torque version). I thought
it was a weak battery but the problem persists even if I add battery capacity.
The last two attempts it sounds like the Bendix is not engaging much at all. Just
a gear grinding sound and no prop turns.
I suspect the starter motor. Anyone have another idea of something at which I
should be looking and/or testing?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401401#401401
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hard start 912ULS |
| From: | =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=F3hann_J=F3hannsson?= <joeing701(at)simnet.is> |
Hello John.
I had the same experience with my 912 UL starting. It turned out to be the starter
like you suspect. Just to make sure, remove the starter and open it up. You
will see some burned wire windings. This could happen if you let the started
turn for too long.
I replaced the starter with the "heavy duty" starter and everything has been working
great since.
Hope this helps,
Johann G.
Iceland.
Zenith 701.
On 27.5.2013, at 03:04, johnelling wrote:
>
> Starting my 912 has been increasingly difficult. it seems as if the starter
has a hard time turning over the engine (it is a high-torque version). I thought
it was a weak battery but the problem persists even if I add battery capacity.
>
> The last two attempts it sounds like the Bendix is not engaging much at all.
Just a gear grinding sound and no prop turns.
>
> I suspect the starter motor. Anyone have another idea of something at which
I should be looking and/or testing?
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401401#401401
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Weaver <mortweaver(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hard start 912ULS |
I would highly recomend Sky Tech as a source for your starter.- They adve
rtise lower cost, lower current draw, higher torque and lighter weight.-
I am very pleased with my Sky Tech starter upgrade which was done to improv
e winter time engine start-up.
Dave Weaver N912GR
--- On Mon, 5/27/13, J=F3hann J=F3hannsson wrote:
From: J=F3hann J=F3hannsson <joeing701(at)simnet.is>
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Hard start 912ULS
Date: Monday, May 27, 2013, 5:06 AM
hannsson?=
Hello John.
I had the same experience with my 912 UL starting. It turned out to be the
starter like you suspect. Just to make sure, remove the starter and open it
up. You will see some burned wire windings. This could happen if you let t
he started turn for too long.
I replaced the starter with the "heavy duty" starter and everything has bee
n working great since.
Hope this helps,
Johann G.
Iceland.
Zenith 701.
On 27.5.2013, at 03:04, johnelling wrote:
com>
>
> Starting my 912 has been increasingly difficult.- it seems as if the st
arter has a hard time turning over the engine (it is a high-torque version)
.- I thought it was a weak battery but the problem persists even if I add
battery capacity.-
>
> The last two attempts it sounds like the Bendix is not engaging much at a
ll.- Just a gear grinding sound and no prop turns.-
>
> I suspect the starter motor.- Anyone have another idea of something at
which I should be looking and/or testing?
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401401#401401
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
le, List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hugh McKay" <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hard start 912ULS |
Dave,
Is the Sky Tech firm you recommend located at the Rock Hill airport in
SC?
Hugh G. McKay III, P.E.
Senior Consultant
Worldwide Engineering Inc.
4090 North NC Hwy. 16
Denver, NC 28037
Ph. 704-661-8271
Fax 704-483-5466
email hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net
http://www.wwegeo.com
From: David Weaver
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2013 7:31 AM
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Hard start 912ULS
I would highly recomend Sky Tech as a source for your starter.
They advertise lower cost, lower current draw, higher torque and lighter
weight. I am very pleased with my Sky Tech starter upgrade which was
done to improve winter time engine start-up.
Dave Weaver N912GR
--- On Mon, 5/27/13, J=F3hann J=F3hannsson
wrote:
From: J=F3hann J=F3hannsson <joeing701(at)simnet.is>
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Hard start 912ULS
To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Monday, May 27, 2013, 5:06 AM
=?iso-8859-1?Q?J=F3hann_J=F3hannsson?=
Hello John.
I had the same experience with my 912 UL starting. It turned out
to be the starter like you suspect. Just to make sure, remove the
starter and open it up. You will see some burned wire windings. This
could happen if you let the started turn for too long.
I replaced the starter with the "heavy duty" starter and
everything has been working great since.
Hope this helps,
Johann G.
Iceland.
Zenith 701.
On 27.5.2013, at 03:04, johnelling wrote:
>
> Starting my 912 has been increasingly difficult. it seems as
if the starter has a hard time turning over the engine (it is a
high-torque version). I thought it was a weak battery but the problem
persists even if I add battery capacity.
>
> The last two attempts it sounds like the Bendix is not
engaging much at all. Just a gear grinding sound and no prop turns.
>
> I suspect the starter motor. Anyone have another idea of
something at which I should be looking and/or testing?
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401401#401401
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ?RotaxEngines-List"
target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Rotasp;
- MATRONICS WEB FO/" ; -Matt Dralle, List
Admin=========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Weaver <mortweaver(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hard start 912ULS |
I ordered my Sky Tech starter through Air Spruce.- I do not know where th
e compay is located but use of on-line search engine will disclose that.-
My 912-UL engine cranks like it is on steroids.
Dave Weaver
--- On Mon, 5/27/13, Hugh McKay wrote:
From: Hugh McKay <hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Hard start 912ULS
Date: Monday, May 27, 2013, 7:00 AM
Dave,
-
Is the Sky Tech firm you recommend located at the Rock Hill airport in SC?
-
Hugh G. McKay III, P.E.
Senior Consultant
Worldwide Engineering Inc.
4090 North NC Hwy. 16
Denver, NC 28037
Ph. 704-661-8271
Fax 704-483-5466
email hgmckay(at)bellsouth.net
http://www.wwegeo.com
-
From: David Weaver
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2013 7:31 AM
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Hard start 912ULS
-
I would highly recomend Sky Tech as a source for your starter.- They adve
rtise lower cost, lower current draw, higher torque and lighter weight.-
I am very pleased with my Sky Tech starter upgrade which was done to improv
e winter time engine start-up.
Dave Weaver N912GR
--- On Mon, 5/27/13, J=F3hann J=F3hannsson wrote:
From: J=F3hann J=F3hannsson <joeing701(at)simnet.is>
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Hard start 912ULS
Date: Monday, May 27, 2013, 5:06 AM
hannsson?=
Hello John.
I had the same experience with my 912 UL starting. It turned out to be the
starter like you suspect. Just to make sure, remove the starter and open it
up. You will see some burned wire windings. This could happen if you let t
he started turn for too long.
I replaced the starter with the "heavy duty" starter and everything has bee
n working great since.
Hope this helps,
Johann G.
Iceland.
Zenith 701.
On 27.5.2013, at 03:04, johnelling wrote:
com>
>
> Starting my 912 has been increasingly difficult.- it seems as if the st
arter has a hard time turning over the engine (it is a high-torque version)
.- I thought it was a weak battery but the problem persists even if I add
battery capacity.-
>
> The last two attempts it sounds like the Bendix is not engaging much at a
ll.- Just a gear grinding sound and no prop turns.-
>
> I suspect the starter motor.- Anyone have another idea of something at
which I should be looking and/or testing?
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401401#401401
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ?RotaxEngines-List" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Ro
tasp;------------- - MATRONICS WEB FO/" ;--
------------ -Matt Dralle, List Admin====
=====
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List">http://www.ma
tronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hard start 912ULS |
On 06:31 AM 5/27/2013, David Weaver wrote:
>I ordered my Sky Tech starter through Air Spruce. I do not know where the compay
is located but use of on-line search engine will disclose that. My 912-UL
engine cranks like it is on steroids.
http://www.skytecair.com/LSA.htm
--
Bob Comperini
e-mail: bob@fly-ul.com
WWW: http://www.fly-ul.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hard start 912ULS |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
The other item that would help is what year engine Mfg is this and its hours? Did
you actually try a new battery? Does it sound like the starter whirls, but
the engine kind of lags behing or stops turning even when the starter is still
turning.
If the starter is turning fine then it is your sprag clutch associated with the
starter and engine start. If people ever get kick back or turn their props backward
it will trash the sprag clutch. The higher torque Rotax starter is gold
in color and the older style is black. The black one isn't bad for the UL, but
the ULS should have the high torque gold one. Changing the sprag will will encompass
removal of the electrical end assembly.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401411#401411
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Weaver <mortweaver(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | ACS Ignition Switch |
During a take off run, following a mag check for normal RPM drop, the engin
e miss-fired continuously following rotation and lift off.- I immediately
pulled back on throttle and let the 912 XP settle for landing.- I-ran
off-the end of runway (2,400 Feet)-with no damage.- Transition-from
runway end to-farmer's freshly planted field was smooth (large wheel opt
ion on Pulsar).- The problem turned out to be my failure to return the ig
nition switch to full right position detente between "left" and "both" posi
tions.- Though I initially had full power at the beginning of the take-of
f run, vibration may have caused enough of a change in switch contact posit
ion to-lead to-the problem.- When the Pulsar rolled to a stop, I sat
quietly and reviewed my procedure and discovered the problem with the key p
osition.- The problem has not reoccurred since that eventful flight.- I
t seems logical that spring loading in the switch, if provided,-should ca
use-the
selector to-prefer one detente or-the nearest-and not settle on a mi
d-position between detentes?
Dave Weaver N912GR
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | repair vs new vs overhaul |
Roger,
My early s/n 912 in a model IV Kitfox shows evidence of right rear exhaust
leakage at the head to exhaust pipe.
Upon removal of the exhaust system I note that both rear exhaust pipes are
sloppy in their fit to the heads, so I suspect an overheat problem, at
least right at the exhaust ports??
So I bet I am in for two new heads (ouch $) and two new exhaust pipe ends
welded onto the existing pipes. Does this sound right?
Oh, the two rear exhaust pipes do not push up into the front head exhaust
ports, probably because of a bit of exhaust crud build up on the old
pipes, however the pipes do look round to my lay person's eye with a bit
of surface crud on the outside where they fit into the exhaust port.
I bought the plane about 15 years ago with 60 hours at that time, have
flown it another roughly 400 and have never seen any indication of
overheating on gauges, no leaking of oil at heads indicating warpage of
heads nor has the coolant boiled over at least since I have owned it?
So next question, what might be the cause? If I put two new heads on is
the problem likely to recur? Any guidance here could be very useful.
Since new heads are expensive, what are the rules of thumb about just
selling the engine and getting a "factory overhaul" if such exists, or
getting aa new engine on exchange from Rotax? I recall hearing that Rotax
offered a "good deal" on new engines in exchange for old engines, if the
case of the old engine is good?
I bet others would be interested in some general guidelines on this from a
trained and experienced Rotax specialist such as yourself.
Thanks in advance for any guidance!
BJ
Kitfox IV 1050, Rotax 912
bjones(at)dmv.com
443-480-1023
>
> Hi Hugh,
>
> The problem has been that not everyone has a gascolator or a fuel filter
> far enough downstream. the main hose offenders isn't from hose before the
> fuel pump because it has a filter screen inside, but from hose past the
> pump. The fuel hose from the pump pressure side out is a problem at times.
> Some 912's have the stainless steel lines mounted from the fuel
> distribution block mounted on the carb balance tube, some don't. Some have
> the red Teflon fuel line from this point and some have just rubber fuel
> line right out of the pump to the carbs.
>
> Read this and you'll get a better handle on what some of the issues have
> been. My original post here was to just give you another tool in your
> mental toolbox for the "just in case" scenario.
>
> http://www.rotax-owner.com/rotax-blog/item/21-rotax-5-year-rubber-replacement-the-installation-considerations
>
> --------
> Roger Lee
> Tucson, Az.
> Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
> Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
> Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
> Cell 520-349-7056
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399964#399964
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: repair vs new vs overhaul |
| From: | Pete Christensen <pchristensen10(at)austin.rr.com> |
Your not flying enough. ;-)
Pete
On May 29, 2013, at 11:09 AM, bjones(at)dmv.com wrote:
>
> Roger,
>
> My early s/n 912 in a model IV Kitfox shows evidence of right rear exhaust
> leakage at the head to exhaust pipe.
>
> Upon removal of the exhaust system I note that both rear exhaust pipes are
> sloppy in their fit to the heads, so I suspect an overheat problem, at
> least right at the exhaust ports??
>
> So I bet I am in for two new heads (ouch $) and two new exhaust pipe ends
> welded onto the existing pipes. Does this sound right?
>
> Oh, the two rear exhaust pipes do not push up into the front head exhaust
> ports, probably because of a bit of exhaust crud build up on the old
> pipes, however the pipes do look round to my lay person's eye with a bit
> of surface crud on the outside where they fit into the exhaust port.
>
> I bought the plane about 15 years ago with 60 hours at that time, have
> flown it another roughly 400 and have never seen any indication of
> overheating on gauges, no leaking of oil at heads indicating warpage of
> heads nor has the coolant boiled over at least since I have owned it?
>
> So next question, what might be the cause? If I put two new heads on is
> the problem likely to recur? Any guidance here could be very useful.
>
> Since new heads are expensive, what are the rules of thumb about just
> selling the engine and getting a "factory overhaul" if such exists, or
> getting aa new engine on exchange from Rotax? I recall hearing that Rotax
> offered a "good deal" on new engines in exchange for old engines, if the
> case of the old engine is good?
>
> I bet others would be interested in some general guidelines on this from a
> trained and experienced Rotax specialist such as yourself.
>
> Thanks in advance for any guidance!
>
> BJ
> Kitfox IV 1050, Rotax 912
> bjones(at)dmv.com
> 443-480-1023
>
>
>
>
>>
>> Hi Hugh,
>>
>> The problem has been that not everyone has a gascolator or a fuel filter
>> far enough downstream. the main hose offenders isn't from hose before the
>> fuel pump because it has a filter screen inside, but from hose past the
>> pump. The fuel hose from the pump pressure side out is a problem at times.
>> Some 912's have the stainless steel lines mounted from the fuel
>> distribution block mounted on the carb balance tube, some don't. Some have
>> the red Teflon fuel line from this point and some have just rubber fuel
>> line right out of the pump to the carbs.
>>
>> Read this and you'll get a better handle on what some of the issues have
>> been. My original post here was to just give you another tool in your
>> mental toolbox for the "just in case" scenario.
>>
>> http://www.rotax-owner.com/rotax-blog/item/21-rotax-5-year-rubber-replacement-the-installation-considerations
>>
>> --------
>> Roger Lee
>> Tucson, Az.
>> Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
>> Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
>> Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
>> Cell 520-349-7056
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399964#399964
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Touring USA with folding wing plane and RV |
Pete,
You are right, I don't fly enough.
On the flip side of that coin the flying that I do in the Kitfox is pretty
unusual and spectacular. Each year I spend several weeks at a time in
great flying locations, flying low and slow down in the scenery in
Monument Valley, Canyon Lands, Valley of the Gods, Lake Powell, the
Florida Keys, the Down East Maine coast line, in the Grand Canyon, along
the Texas Gulf Coast playing on those desolate beaches, among many other
beautiful spots.
For the last ten years or so, I have towed the Kitfox in an enclosed car
trailer-mobile hanger-shop behind a slick little motorhome, flying at
these great locations when the weather is near perfect and enjoying
touring by road in the little motorhome otherwise.
(With over a decade of doing this I have learned a lot in terms of trailer
selection, protecting the plane while towing, accessing airports or
"getting thru the airport gate after 911", quick and easy loading and
loading the plane from the trailer, saving on costs and where to enjoy
flying. At the suggestion of EAA's Sport Plane representative, Ron
Wagner, and EAA's senior magazine editor, Mary Jones, I recently started
sharing my love of flying by doing forums at Sun N Fun, Sebring Sport
Plane Expo, etc. on "Tips On How To Tow Your Folding Wing Plane and Tour
The USA By LSA And Chevrolet". )
Being retired - Life Is Good!
BJ
Kitfox IV 1050 Rotax 912 80hp
>
>
> Your not flying enough. ;-)
>
> Pete
>
>
> On May 29, 2013, at 11:09 AM, bjones(at)dmv.com wrote:
>
>>
>> Roger,
>>
>> My early s/n 912 in a model IV Kitfox shows evidence of right rear
>> exhaust
>> leakage at the head to exhaust pipe.
>>
>> Upon removal of the exhaust system I note that both rear exhaust pipes
>> are
>> sloppy in their fit to the heads, so I suspect an overheat problem, at
>> least right at the exhaust ports??
>>
>> So I bet I am in for two new heads (ouch $) and two new exhaust pipe
>> ends
>> welded onto the existing pipes. Does this sound right?
>>
>> Oh, the two rear exhaust pipes do not push up into the front head
>> exhaust
>> ports, probably because of a bit of exhaust crud build up on the old
>> pipes, however the pipes do look round to my lay person's eye with a bit
>> of surface crud on the outside where they fit into the exhaust port.
>>
>> I bought the plane about 15 years ago with 60 hours at that time, have
>> flown it another roughly 400 and have never seen any indication of
>> overheating on gauges, no leaking of oil at heads indicating warpage of
>> heads nor has the coolant boiled over at least since I have owned it?
>>
>> So next question, what might be the cause? If I put two new heads on is
>> the problem likely to recur? Any guidance here could be very useful.
>>
>> Since new heads are expensive, what are the rules of thumb about just
>> selling the engine and getting a "factory overhaul" if such exists, or
>> getting aa new engine on exchange from Rotax? I recall hearing that
>> Rotax
>> offered a "good deal" on new engines in exchange for old engines, if the
>> case of the old engine is good?
>>
>> I bet others would be interested in some general guidelines on this from
>> a
>> trained and experienced Rotax specialist such as yourself.
>>
>> Thanks in advance for any guidance!
>>
>> BJ
>> Kitfox IV 1050, Rotax 912
>> bjones(at)dmv.com
>> 443-480-1023
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: repair vs new vs overhaul |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi BJ,
I doubt that high temp issue caused this. The most likely cause is the pulsation
from the exhaust causes the tubes to vibrate and move which wears down the metal.
Some wear completely through. I would bet your engine is just fine and wouldn't
think about a new one or rebuilding. I would however replace the exhaust.
The joints should be lubed every couple hundred hours with copper anti seize.
Also make sure any nuts, bolts and springs on the exhaust are tight and or
up at torque. This will help eliminate the wear.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=401548#401548
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Touring USA with folding wing plane and RV |
| From: | JC Gilpin <j.gilpin(at)bigpond.com> |
Gday,
Here's another example of touring the USA with a folding aircraft in a
trailer towed behind an RV.
http://www.tailwindsplease.com/usa-flyingroad-trip/
A great trip!
JG
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Touring USA with folding wing plane and RV |
| From: | Sacha <uuccio(at)gmail.com> |
You beaut! :)
Seriously thats inspiring.... Thanks for sharing!
On May 30, 2013, at 10:08, JC Gilpin wrote:
>
> Gday,
>
> Here's another example of touring the USA with a folding aircraft in a tra
iler towed behind an RV.
> http://www.tailwindsplease.com/usa-flyingroad-trip/
>
> A great trip!
>
> JG
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Touring USA with folding wing plane and |
RV
JG,
Enjoyed the usa-flyingroad-trip
We have a lot of sights and scenery in common.
BJ
> Gday,
>
> Here's another example of touring the USA with a folding aircraft in a
> trailer towed behind an RV.
> http://www.tailwindsplease.com/usa-flyingroad-trip/
>
> A great trip!
>
> JG
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rotax 912 exhaust pipe repair |
| From: | "JohnE" <j_l_walsh(at)yahoo.com> |
The co-pilot side rear exhaust pipe cracked on me this weekend. I called a few
shops to have it repaired (overhauled), but it seems none of them work on the
smaller diameter piping. Rotax is 1 1/4 inch?
The lead time for a new replacement from the factory (Diamond) is about 10 weeks.
I looked thru the Rotax parts manual and saw their are 2 different pipes and
some kits. Mine is stainless steel. How are 912 owners fabricating their
exhausts? What shops will do this.
thanks for any info.
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402426#402426
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 exhaust pipe repair |
| From: | Damien Graham <dgraham7(at)TWCNY.RR.COM> |
Try Travis Kobush. Kobushweldingandmachining.com
Regards,
Damien
N48TK
Sent from my iPad
On Jun 10, 2013, at 4:40 PM, "JohnE" wrote:
>
> The co-pilot side rear exhaust pipe cracked on me this weekend. I called a few
shops to have it repaired (overhauled), but it seems none of them work on the
smaller diameter piping. Rotax is 1 1/4 inch?
>
> The lead time for a new replacement from the factory (Diamond) is about 10 weeks.
I looked thru the Rotax parts manual and saw their are 2 different pipes
and some kits. Mine is stainless steel. How are 912 owners fabricating their
exhausts? What shops will do this.
>
> thanks for any info.
>
> John
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402426#402426
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 exhaust pipe repair |
I just had Precision Welding in Sebring weld new ends (that got into the
heads) onto my existing exhaust pipes for a Kitfox IV with early 912.
Lockwood apparently has used them for this specific type of job. And the
lady welder said she had done "millions" of these end replacements. The
ends were Rotax parts from Lockwood. Not sure about fabrication of new
exhaust systems.
BJ Kitfox IV 912
>
>
> Try Travis Kobush. Kobushweldingandmachining.com
> Regards,
> Damien
> N48TK
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Jun 10, 2013, at 4:40 PM, "JohnE" wrote:
>
>>
>> The co-pilot side rear exhaust pipe cracked on me this weekend. I
>> called a few shops to have it repaired (overhauled), but it seems none
>> of them work on the smaller diameter piping. Rotax is 1 1/4 inch?
>>
>> The lead time for a new replacement from the factory (Diamond) is about
>> 10 weeks. I looked thru the Rotax parts manual and saw their are 2
>> different pipes and some kits. Mine is stainless steel. How are 912
>> owners fabricating their exhausts? What shops will do this.
>>
>> thanks for any info.
>>
>> John
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402426#402426
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 exhaust pipe repair |
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
Keep LQQKing John:
All you need is a Welding Shop that can do Thin Wall Stainless Steel.
AND ask them to put a PATCH over the crack. Do not let them just weld the
crack. Weld the crack and Patch for strength.
*Barry*
On Mon, Jun 10, 2013 at 4:40 PM, JohnE wrote:
>
> The co-pilot side rear exhaust pipe cracked on me this weekend. I called
> a few shops to have it repaired (overhauled), but it seems none of them
> work on the smaller diameter piping. Rotax is 1 1/4 inch?
>
> The lead time for a new replacement from the factory (Diamond) is about 10
> weeks. I looked thru the Rotax parts manual and saw their are 2 different
> pipes and some kits. Mine is stainless steel. How are 912 owners
> fabricating their exhausts? What shops will do this.
>
> thanks for any info.
>
> John
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402426#402426
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 exhaust pipe repair |
| From: | "JohnE" <j_l_walsh(at)yahoo.com> |
Thanks for the info. The crack in this case cut the pipe into 2 pieces. It does
look like another section of pipe could be put over it and then welded if thats
how they would do it.
[quote="BARRY CHECK 6"]Keep LQQKing John:
All you need is a Welding Shop that can do Thin Wall Stainless Steel.
AND ask them to put a PATCH over the crack. Do not let them just weld the crack.
Weld the crack and Patch for strength.
Barry
On Mon, Jun 10, 2013 at 4:40 PM, JohnE wrote:
>
> The co-pilot side rear exhaust pipe cracked on me this weekend. I called a few
shops to have it repaired (overhauled), but it seems none of them work on the
smaller diameter piping. Rotax is 1 1/4 inch?
>
> The lead time for a new replacement from the factory (Diamond) is about 10 weeks.
I looked thru the Rotax parts manual and saw their are 2 different pipes
and some kits. Mine is stainless steel. How are 912 owners fabricating their
exhausts? What shops will do this.
>
> thanks for any info.
>
> John
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402426#402426 (http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402426#402426)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ==========
> -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
>
> [b]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402442#402442
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 exhaust pipe repair |
| From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
John,
After you get the tube repaired, make sure you do a pneumatic synchronization of
the carbs. Unbalanced carbs add a lot of unnecessary vibration to the whole
powerplant. Our DA20-A1 has 1100+ hours on its second engine (F3) and no cracks.
I check the balance during every annual inspection.
--------
Thom Riddle
Buffalo, NY (9G0)
Don't worry about old age... it doesn't last very long.
- Anonymous
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402472#402472
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Hi CHT on the Rotax 912uls |
| From: | "Rich L" <kitfox812(at)gmail.com> |
A lot has been said about the 912uls cooling. I have had CHT temps over 240 degF
for over 2 years in the summer. Not to red line but Not Comfortable to fly any
distance with. I have over 1100 hours on my Kitfox S7 and my Evans "lifetime"
coolant and was ready for a change. I read an article, (I think by Roger) about
using 50/50 Antifreeze instead of Evans would reduce bring the temps by 25
to 30 degrees.
It works!!!! My CHT and Coolant Temp are down 25 degrees today with the same OAT
as when they were in the 240 range. I am ready to take a summer trip again.
BTW, I chose Prestone DexCool (Orange). Thanks Roger
--------
Rich Little
N812RL S-7 912ULS
North Idaho
Kiev Prop
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402577#402577
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hi CHT on the Rotax 912uls |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Your Welcome.
Evans isn't a bad coolant it just comes with a temp penalty. I wouldn't use it
unless my engine was an open air engine. These newer tight cowled aircraft just
don't help out much for cooling. To help keep down radiated and convective heat
on the inside of the cowl on all the hoses and wiring you can use some header
wrap on the exhaust pipes from the head down and under the springs. Many of
us have been doing this for 10+ years without any issues. The header wrap can
be purchased from most automotive stores.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402590#402590
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hi CHT on the Rotax 912uls |
In a related matter, I have a Kitfox IV with 912 that has dual coolant
temp sending units and matched UMA gauges. The sending unit mounted in
the coolant line (supplied by Lockwood) reads about ten degrees cooler
than the sending unit and gauge combination mounted in the cylinder head.
I have switched wires between sending units and gauges just to make sure
there is not a discrepancy between sending units and gauges.
BJ Kitfox IV 80 hp 912
>
> A lot has been said about the 912uls cooling. I have had CHT temps over
> 240 degF for over 2 years in the summer. Not to red line but Not
> Comfortable to fly any distance with. I have over 1100 hours on my Kitfox
> S7 and my Evans "lifetime" coolant and was ready for a change. I read an
> article, (I think by Roger) about using 50/50 Antifreeze instead of Evans
> would reduce bring the temps by 25 to 30 degrees.
>
> It works!!!! My CHT and Coolant Temp are down 25 degrees today with the
> same OAT as when they were in the 240 range. I am ready to take a summer
> trip again. BTW, I chose Prestone DexCool (Orange). Thanks Roger
>
> --------
> Rich Little
> N812RL S-7 912ULS
> North Idaho
> Kiev Prop
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402577#402577
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hi CHT on the Rotax 912uls |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
There will be a few degrees difference. One is reading the actual water temp at
that specific point and the other the metal temp at a totally different point.
Rotax considers anything like your 10 degrees to be more or less the same.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402609#402609
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 exhaust pipe repair |
| From: | "JohnE" <j_l_walsh(at)yahoo.com> |
Thom Riddle wrote:
> John,
>
> After you get the tube repaired, make sure you do a pneumatic synchronization
of the carbs. Unbalanced carbs add a lot of unnecessary vibration to the whole
powerplant. Our DA20-A1 has 1100+ hours on its second engine (F3) and no cracks.
I check the balance during every annual inspection.
Hi Thom,
Thanks for the advice. I'm using the downtime to send my carbs in for overhaul
and then will do a pneumatic synch when I get them back. My engine seems pretty
smooth, but in aviation, smooth is relative. :-)
Good to hear from another DA20-A1 owner. There are not too many left in the US.
-John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402623#402623
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 exhaust pipe repair |
| From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
...There are not too many left in the US....
Quite true. Many DA20-A1 owners sold them to buyers in Europe where their excellent
fuel economy and Rotax engines are considered virtues.
--------
Thom Riddle
Buffalo, NY (9G0)
Don't worry about old age... it doesn't last very long.
- Anonymous
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402624#402624
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MacDonald Doug <dougsnash(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Erratic voltage output |
I'm having an erratic voltage output problem on my 912UL powered CH-701.-
=0A=0ATo try and fix the problem I have replaced the voltage regulator and
verified I have no loose connections in the electrical system.- Even wit
h a new regulator I am still getting the same voltage spikes when at full p
ower.- At idle and during run-up the voltage reading on my analog VDO vol
tmeter is rock solid.- It indicates about 14 volts once up off of idle po
wer and my digital voltmeter show about 13.6 Volts.- Once I apply takeoff
power the analog voltmeter needle starts to vibrate wildly plus and minus
about 1-2 volts and the digital voltmeter becomes unstable.- If I am flyi
ng with a light electrical load, the digital voltmeter tops out at just ove
r 14 volts but drifts around as low as 13.7.- If I put on my nav and stro
be lights the voltage drops to 13.3-13.6 range but the needle on the analog
meter continues to vibrate the same.=0A=0AThe only other components (besid
e the regulator) in the electrical system I can think of which might be cau
sing the voltage spikes are the capacitor or a problem with the actual alte
rnator coils.- I thought the problem may have been a bad analog gauge but
given that the digital readings are also erratic I believe it to be a legi
timate issue and not simply a display problem.=0A=0AI'm pretty good at chas
ing electrons but this issue has me stumped.- Anyone have any ideas what
could be causing my erratic voltage output?=0A=0ADoug MacDonald=0ACH-701, N
orthwestern Ontario
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Erratic voltage output |
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
Doug:
1. Being that your Analog Gauge is vibrating indicates that you may have
a Vibration issue... Such as being in need of a Dynamic Prop Balance.
2. For a battery to charge you need 13.8 to 14.2 VDC - Less than that
you are not charging.
3. Being that the voltage is correct at idle and fluxuates at cruise
speed could be an indication of (a) A heat issue or (b) A vibration issue
or (c) Both
4. There are a few funky issues with Rotax and their internal voltage
production - Too Bad Rotax has never solved this problem.
*Barry*
*"Pilots think they are mechanics, because they can buy tools at
Home Depot."*
On Fri, Jun 14, 2013 at 10:44 AM, MacDonald Doug wrote:
> I'm having an erratic voltage output problem on my 912UL powered CH-701.
>
> To try and fix the problem I have replaced the voltage regulator and
> verified I have no loose connections in the electrical system. Even with a
> new regulator I am still getting the same voltage spikes when at full
> power. At idle and during run-up the voltage reading on my analog VDO
> voltmeter is rock solid. It indicates about 14 volts once up off of idle
> power and my digital voltmeter show about 13.6 Volts. Once I apply takeoff
> power the analog voltmeter needle starts to vibrate wildly plus and minus
> about 1-2 volts and the digital voltmeter becomes unstable. If I am flying
> with a light electrical load, the digital voltmeter tops out at just over
> 14 volts but drifts around as low as 13.7. If I put on my nav and strobe
> lights the voltage drops to 13.3-13.6 range but the needle on the analog
> meter continues to vibrate the same.
>
> The only other components (beside the regulator) in the electrical system
> I can think of which might be causing the voltage spikes are the capacitor
> or a problem with the actual alternator coils. I thought the problem may
> have been a bad analog gauge but given that the digital readings are also
> erratic I believe it to be a legitimate issue and not simply a display
> problem.
>
> I'm pretty good at chasing electrons but this issue has me stumped.
> Anyone have any ideas what could be causing my erratic voltage output?
>
> Doug MacDonald
> CH-701, Northwestern Ontario
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Erratic voltage output |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Doug,
This happens when the ground is poor. Try a test. leave the existing ground in
place and install a more direct and solid ground from the battery, to the engine
to the wiring ground block for the plane. I have had numerous issues like this
I cured by installing a much more direct and solid ground.
It won't hurt to try it and rule it out as a factor.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402709#402709
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carl <b.carl(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Erratic voltage output |
Hi Doug
You stated you have no loose contacts, you could have a poor contact.
Two years ago I had an intermittent charging problem that took two day
to trace. It was in an in-line fuse holder, the rubber coated ones that
take ATC fuses. The fuse looked fairly normal but when I cut the holder
open it was corroded and burnt. Replaced problem gone.
Carl
----- Original Message -----
From: MacDonald Doug
To: rotax list
Sent: Friday, June 14, 2013 10:44 AM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Erratic voltage output
I'm having an erratic voltage output problem on my 912UL powered
CH-701.
To try and fix the problem I have replaced the voltage regulator and
verified I have no loose connections in the electrical system. Even
with a new regulator I am still getting the same voltage spikes when at
full power. At idle and during run-up the voltage reading on my analog
VDO voltmeter is rock solid. It indicates about 14 volts once up off of
idle power and my digital voltmeter show about 13.6 Volts. Once I apply
takeoff power the analog voltmeter needle starts to vibrate wildly plus
and minus about 1-2 volts and the digital voltmeter becomes unstable.
If I am flying with a light electrical load, the digital voltmeter tops
out at just over 14 volts but drifts around as low as 13.7. If I put on
my nav and strobe lights the voltage drops to 13.3-13.6 range but the
needle on the analog meter continues to vibrate the same.
The only other components (beside the regulator) in the electrical
system I can think of which might be causing the voltage spikes are the
capacitor or a problem with the actual alternator coils. I thought the
problem may have been a bad analog gauge but given that the digital
readings are also erratic I believe it to be a legitimate issue and not
simply a display problem.
I'm pretty good at chasing electrons but this issue has me stumped.
Anyone have any ideas what could be causing my erratic voltage output?
Doug MacDonald
CH-701, Northwestern Ontario
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Grimstad" <paul(at)controlapproach.com> |
| Subject: | Erratic voltage output |
We have been experiencing wild fluctuations on the amperage meter, running a
912uls with Dynon 180 EFIS engine monitor. The spikes range from +5 to -6.
Voltage is also high (high 13's), but then it seems to settle down after
takeoff. I thought the high voltage maybe because we just installed a new
battery.
We also just installed a new voltage regulator and when we grounded the
plane and took a look at the condition we found the two power leads going
into the regulator were completely melted and the heat was starting to melt
the plastic mounting socket on the Ducati voltage regulator. We replaced the
spade connectors on the main power leads and replaced the wiring socket
plug-in connector as well.
We had heard that the Rotax engine electronic system is very sensitive to
the requirement of the ground connection, so additionally we ran a 10ga
copper wire from the base lug on the voltage regulator to the negative
terminal connecting stud at the battery/airframe. This has not solved the
problem. I flew 7hours last weekend and near the end of the flight time, I
noticed the amp gauge still jumping up and down.
I have spoken with several knowledgeable Rotax guys and both asked me if I
ran the ground from the base of the voltage regulator directly to the engine
block?
So, this afternoon I removed the wire socket plug connector and inspected
the wire ends and crimped connectors. There was no sign of heat damage, so I
reconnected the primary connection plug. I made up another ground wire with
soldered wire ends and waterproof shrink tubing. I then installed the new
ground wire from the mounting bolt on the base of the voltage regulator
directly to the engine block. Tomorrow I will run the engine and see if the
problem is solved.
Hope this helps, I will let you know how it goes.
Paul Grimstad,
Team RV12
Portland, OR
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl
Sent: Saturday, June 15, 2013 1:25 PM
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Erratic voltage output
Hi Doug
You stated you have no loose contacts, you could have a poor contact. Two
years ago I had an intermittent charging problem that took two day to trace.
It was in an in-line fuse holder, the rubber coated ones that take ATC
fuses. The fuse looked fairly normal but when I cut the holder open it was
corroded and burnt. Replaced problem gone.
Carl
----- Original Message -----
From: MacDonald Doug <mailto:dougsnash(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Friday, June 14, 2013 10:44 AM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Erratic voltage output
I'm having an erratic voltage output problem on my 912UL powered CH-701.
To try and fix the problem I have replaced the voltage regulator and
verified I have no loose connections in the electrical system. Even with a
new regulator I am still getting the same voltage spikes when at full power.
At idle and during run-up the voltage reading on my analog VDO voltmeter is
rock solid. It indicates about 14 volts once up off of idle power and my
digital voltmeter show about 13.6 Volts. Once I apply takeoff power the
analog voltmeter needle starts to vibrate wildly plus and minus about 1-2
volts and the digital voltmeter becomes unstable. If I am flying with a
light electrical load, the digital voltmeter tops out at just over 14 volts
but drifts around as low as 13.7. If I put on my nav and strobe lights the
voltage drops to 13.3-13.6 range but the needle on the analog meter
continues to vibrate the same.
The only other components (beside the regulator) in the electrical system I
can think of which might be causing the voltage spikes are the capacitor or
a problem with the actual alternator coils. I thought the problem may have
been a bad analog gauge but given that the digital readings are also erratic
I believe it to be a legitimate issue and not simply a display problem.
I'm pretty good at chasing electrons but this issue has me stumped. Anyone
have any ideas what could be causing my erratic voltage output?
Doug MacDonald
CH-701, Northwestern Ontario
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List">http://www.matro
nics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MacDonald Doug <dougsnash(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Erratic voltage output |
So, my troubleshooting saga continues.- The first thing I did was run an
18ga ground wire from the regulator body to the negative terminal of the ca
pacitor which then goes to the firewall buss bar.- When this did not solv
e the erratic output issue I replaced the regulator.- Neither of these st
eps helped the problem.- =0A-=0AMy engine ground lead is an 8ga wire ru
nning from a lug on the top of the right rear cylinder to the ground lead o
n the firewall buss.- From the firewall buss, both the positive and negat
ive leads are 8ga wire and go to my main buss which is mounted behind the i
nstrument panel.- From the main buss the positive and negative leads are
8ga and run down the passenger side of the airframe to the battery which is
located behind the passenger seat.- At the battery the ground wire attac
hes to an airframe ground point on the battery mount frame then through an
8ga wire to the negative post.- The positive lead goes to the master sole
noid and then to the positive post of the battery (all 8ga).- As per Roge
r's suggestion, I have been pulling each of these main power leads one term
inal at a time and thoroughly cleaning the connections.- So far I have go
tten to the main buss and firewall buss but still need to clean the connect
ions at the battery.- While I have
found some oxidization, I have thus far found no corrosion which could be
causing my erratic output issue.=0A-=0AToday after work I will pull the b
elly pan off of the plane and clean all of the connections at the battery.
- I also want to pull the connections of the charge lead from the voltage
regulator to the-ALT circuit breaker and main buss to verify they are ok
ay. -So far , however, I'm not seeing anything that could be the source o
f my problem.- My CH-701 is almost three years old and has just shy of 20
0 hours on it.- This voltage issue is has come on gradually over the last
few months as the output has been-stable until I noticed the needle gyra
tions in about March when my flying hours began to pick up.=0A-=0AOne oth
er thing I am going to try is a new capacitor.- Lockwood sells an afterma
rket 22000MF cap for $35.00 so I figured I may as well try it.- My capaci
tor is about ten years old with an unknown history so it is possible that i
s has started to go bad.- I also might try a different ground wire locati
on on the engine.- Perhaps the cylinder head is not an ideal ground locat
ion.=0A-=0AAny other suggestions?=0A-=0ADoug M=0ACH-701 from scratch=0A
aul(at)controlapproach.com>=0ASubject: RE: RotaxEngines-List: Erratic voltage
output=0A=0AWe have been experiencing wild fluctuations on the amperage met
er, running a=0A912uls with Dynon 180 EFIS engine monitor. The spikes range
from +5 to -6.=0AVoltage is also high (high 13's), but then it seems to se
ttle down after=0Atakeoff. I thought the high voltage maybe because we just
installed a new=0Abattery.=0A=0AWe also just installed a new voltage regul
ator and when we grounded the=0Aplane and took a look at the condition we f
ound the two power leads going=0Ainto the regulator were completely melted
and the heat was starting to melt=0Athe plastic mounting socket on the Duca
ti voltage regulator. We replaced the=0Aspade connectors on the main power
leads and replaced the wiring socket=0Aplug-in connector as well. =0A=0AWe
had heard that the Rotax engine electronic system is very sensitive to=0Ath
e requirement of the ground connection, so additionally we ran a 10ga=0Acop
per wire from the base lug on the voltage regulator to the negative=0Atermi
nal connecting stud at the battery/airframe. This has not solved the=0Aprob
lem. I flew 7hours last weekend and near the end of the flight time, I=0Ano
ticed the amp gauge still jumping up and down.=0A=0AI have spoken with seve
ral knowledgeable Rotax guys and both asked me if I=0Aran the ground from t
he base of the voltage regulator directly to the engine=0Ablock?=0A=0ASo, t
his afternoon I removed the wire socket plug connector and inspected=0Athe
wire ends and crimped connectors. There was no sign of heat damage, so I=0A
reconnected the primary connection plug. I made up another ground wire with
=0Asoldered wire ends and waterproof shrink tubing. I then installed the ne
w=0Aground wire from the mounting bolt on the base of the voltage regulator
=0Adirectly to the engine block. Tomorrow I will run the engine and see if
the=0Aproblem is solved.=0A=0AHope this helps, I will let you know how it g
oes.=0A=0APaul Grimstad,=0A=0ATeam RV12=0A=0APortland, OR-----
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Erratic voltage output |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Doug,
The ground wire on the cyl. head should be just fine. Many of us use it and it
seems to work without any issues.
I have those capacitors and they are $20. Same as Lockwood or anyone else unless
you go to the super-sized model with finger nuts on top instead of soldering
the terminals on, but those are about triple or more the price.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402853#402853
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Erratic voltage output |
| From: | paul <paul(at)controlapproach.com> |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=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)talktalk.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Erratic voltage output |
Hi! Doug.
For my experience certainly take the plug and socket to the regulator
apart (no matter what type)and inspect the spade connectors and the nylon
shrouds .
I found mine had a bad connecting spade which had created so much heat the
plastic/nylon plug and socket had welded together and started turning to
carbon which must have been near to causing a fire. The plug, socket and
females are mostly of "Durite" name and part No.0-011-06 ( Six way Nylon)
Made by Gordon Equipments Ltd . for UK users. An example of cheep kit doing
a lousy job if ever there was one!
Regards
Bob Harrison Europa 914 Rotax.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Lee
Sent: 17 June 2013 13:58
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: Erratic voltage output
-->
Hi Doug,
The ground wire on the cyl. head should be just fine. Many of us use it and
it seems to work without any issues.
I have those capacitors and they are $20. Same as Lockwood or anyone else
unless you go to the super-sized model with finger nuts on top instead of
soldering the terminals on, but those are about triple or more the price.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint.
Rated Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=402853#402853
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Erratic voltage output |
| From: | paul <paul(at)controlapproach.com> |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=
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Erratic voltage output |
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
*Doug:*
*
*
*You explained only half of the wiring system. Here are some basic rules
for the Capacitor (CAP):*
- *You want to vibration dampen the mounting of the capacitor; Vibration
damages the capacitor*
- *You want to mount the Cap Up-Side Down - This keeps dirt, oil and
water from building on the top which can short out the terminals (High
Resistance Short) but remember high resistance means almost nothing to the
voltage buildup/stored in the cap.*
- *You want a tantalum electrolytic capacitor*
- *You want to keep the capacitor close to the voltage regulator (ACU)
(Alternator Control Unit), keeping the leads SHORT.*
- *You want to keep the leads short - That means both the positive and
negative leads.*
*Now, when you say "Firewall Buss" and associate it with the Ground - I'm
guessing here you are saying that you have a junction block for BOTH the
Positive and Negative (Ground). Well that is good and is acceptable. But,
is the Firewall grounded to the junction block? You should have two (2)
ground points one to port and starboard on the firewall, usually near the
engine mounts. *
*
*
*When you say you are using the Cylinder as a Ground point - - That is very
questionable. Pick a stud on the engine BLOCK. There is too much
vibration, heat and expansion & contraction for that to be a good grounding
point. Use TWO (2) points on the engine for ground points. Run each to
the port and starboard sides of the firewall. Make sure the engine is
grounded to the engine mount. TAKE RESISTANCE READINGS. All the readings
should be ZERO (0) ohms. NONE of your wire runs are long enough to have
any circuit resistance. If you do then your wires, harness, lugs, crimps
or connections are BAD. There is no getting around this - You MUST take
resistance readings at the LOWEST scale available on the BEST ohm meter you
can borrow. Check out every single wire length and then to ground to find
any problems.*
*
*
*You mention a junction block at the battery which is located
behind passenger the seat. Are you using Internal Star Washers on ALL
these connections? Not split ring washers. Here also check your
Resistance.*
*
*
*Are all stacked ring lugs - Stacked in the Locking Direction and topped
off with a internal star washer?*
*
*
*You are speaking of corrosion and oxidation as two different things - They
are NOT! The smallest amount of "contamination" will cause resistance and
that will cause current drops. Current drops cause voltage fluctuation.*
*
*
*After you get done with all the cleaning and resistance checks and
re-assembly - You should coat the terminals. You can coat them with
chromate paint, primer paint, top coat paint, dielectric grease (good in
many areas but will collect dirt & dust). This works as a corrosion
protection and as witness marks.*
*
*
*Now for the bad news - I'm learning about Rotax engines and I do not think
your problem is external [except for the ground point on the cylinder -
change that]. I'm thinking more to the engine and the internal setup and
workings of the alternator/generator. Not easy access.*
Address each of the areas as mentioned and get back to us. It is NOT a
difficult problem. It is just difficult to address via emails.
*Barry*
On Mon, Jun 17, 2013 at 7:07 AM, MacDonald Doug wrote:
> So, my troubleshooting saga continues. The first thing I did was run an
> 18ga ground wire from the regulator body to the negative terminal of the
> capacitor which then goes to the firewall buss bar. When this did not
> solve the erratic output issue I replaced the regulator. Neither of these
> steps helped the problem.
>
> My engine ground lead is an 8ga wire running from a lug on the top of the
> right rear cylinder to the ground lead on the firewall buss. From the
> firewall buss, both the positive and negative leads are 8ga wire and go to
> my main buss which is mounted behind the instrument panel. From the main
> buss the positive and negative leads are 8ga and run down the passenger
> side of the airframe to the battery which is located behind the passenger
> seat. At the battery the ground wire attaches to an airframe ground point
> on the battery mount frame then through an 8ga wire to the negative post.
> The positive lead goes to the master solenoid and then to the positive post
> of the battery (all 8ga). As per Roger's suggestion, I have been pulling
> each of these main power leads one terminal at a time and thoroughly
> cleaning the connections. So far I have gotten to the main buss and
> firewall buss but still need to clean the connections at the battery.
> While I have found some oxidization, I have thus far found no corrosion
> which could be causing my erratic output issue.
>
> Today after work I will pull the belly pan off of the plane and clean all
> of the connections at the battery. I also want to pull the connections of
> the charge lead from the voltage regulator to the ALT circuit breaker and
> main buss to verify they are okay. So far , however, I'm not seeing
> anything that could be the source of my problem. My CH-701 is almost three
> years old and has just shy of 200 hours on it. This voltage issue is has
> come on gradually over the last few months as the output has been stable
> until I noticed the needle gyrations in about March when my flying hours
> began to pick up.
>
> One other thing I am going to try is a new capacitor. Lockwood sells an
> aftermarket 22000MF cap for $35.00 so I figured I may as well try it. My
> capacitor is about ten years old with an unknown history so it is possible
> that is has started to go bad. I also might try a different ground wire
> location on the engine. Perhaps the cylinder head is not an ideal ground
> location.
>
> Any other suggestions?
>
> Doug M
> CH-701 from scratch
> NW Ontario, Canada
>
> From: "Paul Grimstad" <paul(at)controlapproach.com>
> Subject: RE: RotaxEngines-List: Erratic voltage output
>
> We have been experiencing wild fluctuations on the amperage meter, running
> a
> 912uls with Dynon 180 EFIS engine monitor. The spikes range from +5 to -6.
> Voltage is also high (high 13's), but then it seems to settle down after
> takeoff. I thought the high voltage maybe because we just installed a new
> battery.
>
> We also just installed a new voltage regulator and when we grounded the
> plane and took a look at the condition we found the two power leads going
> into the regulator were completely melted and the heat was starting to melt
> the plastic mounting socket on the Ducati voltage regulator. We replaced
> the
> spade connectors on the main power leads and replaced the wiring socket
> plug-in connector as well.
>
> We had heard that the Rotax engine electronic system is very sensitive to
> the requirement of the ground connection, so additionally we ran a 10ga
> copper wire from the base lug on the voltage regulator to the negative
> terminal connecting stud at the battery/airframe. This has not solved the
> problem. I flew 7hours last weekend and near the end of the flight time, I
> noticed the amp gauge still jumping up and down.
>
> I have spoken with several knowledgeable Rotax guys and both asked me if I
> ran the ground from the base of the voltage regulator directly to the
> engine
> block?
>
> So, this afternoon I removed the wire socket plug connector and inspected
> the wire ends and crimped connectors. There was no sign of heat damage, so
> I
> reconnected the primary connection plug. I made up another ground wire with
> soldered wire ends and waterproof shrink tubing. I then installed the new
> ground wire from the mounting bolt on the base of the voltage regulator
> directly to the engine block. Tomorrow I will run the engine and see if the
> problem is solved.
>
> Hope this helps, I will let you know how it goes.
>
> Paul Grimstad,
>
> Team RV12
>
> Portland, OR
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Erratic voltage output |
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
1. Paul:
I just read your post and something caught my eye: "I made up another
ground wire with soldered wire ends and waterproof shrink tubing."
You should NOT solder the wire ends. You should ONLY CRIMP them.
Soldering creates what is know as a HARDPOINT and causes the wire to fail
due to vibration, right at the END point of the solder to wire connection.
Now, to contradict what I just said: I have a method of soldering that is
Perfectly Acceptable. The steps are:
1. Clean the wire
2. CRIMP on the lug
3. Using SILVER SOLDER - Solder ONLY - ONLY - ONLY - The END of the wire
next to the ring lug. DO NOT keep the heat on the wire for a long time.
Only enough time to get a flow of solder between the wire and the lug.
If
you apply too much heat and too much time the solder will WICK down the
wire and create a HARDPOINT.
4. By doing it my way you create a GREAT Mechanical and Electrical
connection.
5. After soldering the connection CLEAN the connection with alcohol to
remove any flux.
6. I have been doing this for years and NEVER had a failure either
mechanically or electrically.
ALSO:
- Do NOT use SPADE crimp on connectors. Use RING crimp on connectors.
- Why? #1 they are NOT approved via AC 43-13. #2 They have a built in
design failure point... the SPADE!
ALSO #2:
1. Your statement: "so additionally we ran a 10ga copper wire from the
base lug on the voltage regulator to the negative terminal connecting st
ud
at the battery/airframe. " You also have to run that SAME wire to the
airframe [Airframe Ground].
2. Do not rely on a single ground point to do everything.
I just posted an in depth How To with Explanations. Take the time to read
and understand what I wrote. If you have questions PLEASE post them, I
will be happy to explain.
*Barry*
On Mon, Jun 17, 2013 at 2:09 AM, Paul Grimstad wr
ote:
> We have been experiencing wild fluctuations on the amperage meter, runnin
g
> a 912uls with Dynon 180 EFIS engine monitor. The spikes range from +5 to
> -6. Voltage is also high (high 13=92s), but then it seems to settle down
> after takeoff. I thought the high voltage maybe because we just installed
a
> new battery.****
>
> We also just installed a new voltage regulator and when we grounded the
> plane and took a look at the condition we found the two power leads going
> into the regulator were completely melted and the heat was starting to me
lt
> the plastic mounting socket on the Ducati voltage regulator. We replaced
> the spade connectors on the main power leads and replaced the wiring sock
et
> plug-in connector as well. ****
>
> We had heard that the Rotax engine electronic system is very sensitive to
> the requirement of the ground connection, so additionally we ran a 10ga
> copper wire from the base lug on the voltage regulator to the negative
> terminal connecting stud at the battery/airframe. This has not solved the
> problem. I flew 7hours last weekend and near the end of the flight time,
I
> noticed the amp gauge still jumping up and down.****
>
> I have spoken with several knowledgeable Rotax guys and both asked me if
I
> ran the ground from the base of the voltage regulator directly to the
> engine block?****
>
> So, this afternoon I removed the wire socket plug connector and inspected
> the wire ends and crimped connectors. There was no sign of heat damage, s
o
> I reconnected the primary connection plug. I made up another ground wire
> with soldered wire ends and waterproof shrink tubing. I then installed th
e
> new ground wire from the mounting bolt on the base of the voltage regulat
or
> directly to the engine block. Tomorrow I will run the engine and see if t
he
> problem is solved.****
>
> Hope this helps, I will let you know how it goes.****
>
> Paul Grimstad,****
>
> Team RV12****
>
> Portland, OR ****
>
> ** **
>
> *From:* owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Carl
> *Sent:* Saturday, June 15, 2013 1:25 PM
> *To:* rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RotaxEngines-List: Erratic voltage output****
>
> ** **
>
> Hi Doug****
>
> You stated you have no loose contacts, you could have a poor contact. Tw
o
> years ago I had an intermittent charging problem that took two day to
> trace. It was in an in-line fuse holder, the rubber coated ones that take
> ATC fuses. The fuse looked fairly normal but when I cut the holder open i
t
> was corroded and burnt. Replaced problem gone.****
>
> Carl****
>
> ----- Original Message ----- ****
>
> *From:* MacDonald Doug ****
>
> *To:* rotax list ****
>
> *Sent:* Friday, June 14, 2013 10:44 AM****
>
> *Subject:* RotaxEngines-List: Erratic voltage output****
>
> ** **
>
> I'm having an erratic voltage output problem on my 912UL powered CH-701.
>
> To try and fix the problem I have replaced the voltage regulator and
> verified I have no loose connections in the electrical system. Even with
a
> new regulator I am still getting the same voltage spikes when at full
> power. At idle and during run-up the voltage reading on my analog VDO
> voltmeter is rock solid. It indicates about 14 volts once up off of idle
> power and my digital voltmeter show about 13.6 Volts. Once I apply takeo
ff
> power the analog voltmeter needle starts to vibrate wildly plus and minus
> about 1-2 volts and the digital voltmeter becomes unstable. If I am flyi
ng
> with a light electrical load, the digital voltmeter tops out at just over
> 14 volts but drifts around as low as 13.7. If I put on my nav and strobe
> lights the voltage drops to 13.3-13.6 range but the needle on the analog
> meter continues to vibrate the same.
>
> The only other components (beside the regulator) in the electrical system
> I can think of which might be causing the voltage spikes are the capacito
r
> or a problem with the actual alternator coils. I thought the problem may
> have been a bad analog gauge but given that the digital readings are also
> erratic I believe it to be a legitimate issue and not simply a display
> problem.
>
> I'm pretty good at chasing electrons but this issue has me stumped.
> Anyone have any ideas what could be causing my erratic voltage output?
>
> Doug MacDonald
> CH-701, Northwestern Ontario****
>
> ** **
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> *href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List">http://www
.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List*
>
> *href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> *href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/
c*
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> **
>
> * *
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rayj <raymondj(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Erratic voltage output |
Greetings Paul,
If you want GOOD advice and information on all things
aviationelectrical/electronic, check out http://www.aeroelectric.com/
and the aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com, right here on Matt's server.
No affiliation, just a long time subscriber.
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN.
"And you know that I could have me a million more friends,
and all I'd have to lose is my point of view." - John Prine
On 06/19/2013 11:32 AM, FLYaDIVE wrote:
>
> 1. Paul:
>
>
> I just read your post and something caught my eye: "I made up another
> ground wire with soldered wire ends and waterproof shrink tubing."
>
> You should NOT solder the wire ends. You should ONLY CRIMP them.
> Soldering creates what is know as a HARDPOINT and causes the wire to
> fail due to vibration, right at the END point of the solder to wire
> connection.
>
> Now, to contradict what I just said: I have a method of soldering
> that is Perfectly Acceptable. The steps are:
>
> 1. Clean the wire
> 2. CRIMP on the lug
> 3. Using SILVER SOLDER - Solder ONLY - ONLY - ONLY - The END of the
> wire next to the ring lug. DO NOT keep the heat on the wire for a
> long time. Only enough time to get a flow of solder between the
> wire and the lug. If you apply too much heat and too much time
> the solder will WICK down the wire and create a HARDPOINT.
> 4. By doing it my way you create a GREAT Mechanical and Electrical
> connection.
> 5. After soldering the connection CLEAN the connection with alcohol
> to remove any flux.
> 6. I have been doing this for years and NEVER had a failure either
> mechanically or electrically.
>
> ALSO:
>
> * Do NOT use SPADE crimp on connectors. Use RING crimp on connectors.
> * Why? #1 they are NOT approved via AC 43-13. #2 They have a built
> in design failure point... the SPADE!
>
> ALSO #2:
>
> 1. Your statement: "so additionally we ran a 10ga copper wire from
> the base lug on the voltage regulator to the negative terminal
> connecting stud at the battery/airframe. " You also have to run
> that SAME wire to the airframe [Airframe Ground].
> 2. Do not rely on a single ground point to do everything.
>
> I just posted an in depth How To with Explanations. Take the time to
> read and understand what I wrote. If you have questions PLEASE post
> them, I will be happy to explain.
>
> *Barry*
>
>
> On Mon, Jun 17, 2013 at 2:09 AM, Paul Grimstad
> > wrote:
>
> We have been experiencing wild fluctuations on the amperage meter,
> running a 912uls with Dynon 180 EFIS engine monitor. The spikes
> range from +5 to -6. Voltage is also high (high 13's), but then it
> seems to settle down after takeoff. I thought the high voltage
> maybe because we just installed a new battery.
>
> We also just installed a new voltage regulator and when we
> grounded the plane and took a look at the condition we found the
> two power leads going into the regulator were completely melted
> and the heat was starting to melt the plastic mounting socket on
> the Ducati voltage regulator. We replaced the spade connectors on
> the main power leads and replaced the wiring socket plug-in
> connector as well.
>
> We had heard that the Rotax engine electronic system is very
> sensitive to the requirement of the ground connection, so
> additionally we ran a 10ga copper wire from the base lug on the
> voltage regulator to the negative terminal connecting stud at the
> battery/airframe. This has not solved the problem. I flew 7hours
> last weekend and near the end of the flight time, I noticed the
> amp gauge still jumping up and down.
>
> I have spoken with several knowledgeable Rotax guys and both asked
> me if I ran the ground from the base of the voltage regulator
> directly to the engine block?
>
> So, this afternoon I removed the wire socket plug connector and
> inspected the wire ends and crimped connectors. There was no sign
> of heat damage, so I reconnected the primary connection plug. I
> made up another ground wire with soldered wire ends and waterproof
> shrink tubing. I then installed the new ground wire from the
> mounting bolt on the base of the voltage regulator directly to the
> engine block. Tomorrow I will run the engine and see if the
> problem is solved.
>
> Hope this helps, I will let you know how it goes.
>
> Paul Grimstad,
>
> Team RV12
>
> Portland, OR
>
> *From:*owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
> [mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
> ] *On Behalf
> Of *Carl
> *Sent:* Saturday, June 15, 2013 1:25 PM
> *To:* rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
>
> *Subject:* Re: RotaxEngines-List: Erratic voltage output
>
> Hi Doug
>
> You stated you have no loose contacts, you could have a poor
> contact. Two years ago I had an intermittent charging problem
> that took two day to trace. It was in an in-line fuse holder, the
> rubber coated ones that take ATC fuses. The fuse looked fairly
> normal but when I cut the holder open it was corroded and burnt.
> Replaced problem gone.
>
> Carl
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> *From:*MacDonald Doug
>
> *To:*rotax list
>
> *Sent:*Friday, June 14, 2013 10:44 AM
>
> *Subject:*RotaxEngines-List: Erratic voltage output
>
> I'm having an erratic voltage output problem on my 912UL
> powered CH-701.
>
> To try and fix the problem I have replaced the voltage
> regulator and verified I have no loose connections in the
> electrical system. Even with a new regulator I am still
> getting the same voltage spikes when at full power. At idle
> and during run-up the voltage reading on my analog VDO
> voltmeter is rock solid. It indicates about 14 volts once up
> off of idle power and my digital voltmeter show about 13.6
> Volts. Once I apply takeoff power the analog voltmeter needle
> starts to vibrate wildly plus and minus about 1-2 volts and
> the digital voltmeter becomes unstable. If I am flying with a
> light electrical load, the digital voltmeter tops out at just
> over 14 volts but drifts around as low as 13.7. If I put on
> my nav and strobe lights the voltage drops to 13.3-13.6 range
> but the needle on the analog meter continues to vibrate the same.
>
> The only other components (beside the regulator) in the
> electrical system I can think of which might be causing the
> voltage spikes are the capacitor or a problem with the actual
> alternator coils. I thought the problem may have been a bad
> analog gauge but given that the digital readings are also
> erratic I believe it to be a legitimate issue and not simply a
> display problem.
>
> I'm pretty good at chasing electrons but this issue has me
> stumped. Anyone have any ideas what could be causing my
> erratic voltage output?
>
> Doug MacDonald
> CH-701, Northwestern Ontario
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> *href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List*
>
> *href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> *href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c*
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> **
>
> * *
>
> *
>
> ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Daul Mags on the 914 |
| From: | "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net> |
Hello All.
I have just replace a mag HT coil on my 914, simple job, but a ridiculous job to
do it took my a day because you can not get at the nuts and bolts.
However all is well now, I have equal drops of about 280to300 on each .
I can understand the more efficient burning on two hence the extra 300 rpm.
But when run on either the left or right mag the engine is not as smooth as when
on two. WHY??
A car has only one set of plugs and that runs smooth, So at 4000rpm on two smooth
3710 rpms on one not as smooth ??
Alan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403012#403012
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Daul Mags on the 914 |
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
Alen:
The simple answers are:
- When you adjust the carb it is adjusted for the spark available. If
you had only one spark plug you would adjust the carb for the best run with
that one plug. Since you have two spark plugs the burn is better - BUT -
You need the two plugs.
- Spark Plug Location - When you are talking real estate there are three
things that matter - Location - Location - Location. When running on ONE
plug in a dual plug system, it is NOT in the best location to give the best
spark/burn. A car puts the plug in the optimum location for spark and
burn.
- Most aircraft engines sacrifice spark plug location for
Safety/REDUNDANCY.
*Barry*
On Wed, Jun 19, 2013 at 5:45 PM, Alan Carter wrote:
> alancarteresq(at)onetel.net>
>
> Hello All.
> I have just replace a mag HT coil on my 914, simple job, but a ridiculous
> job to do it took my a day because you can not get at the nuts and bolts.
> However all is well now, I have equal drops of about 280to300 on each .
> I can understand the more efficient burning on two hence the extra 300 rpm.
> But when run on either the left or right mag the engine is not as smooth
> as when on two. WHY??
> A car has only one set of plugs and that runs smooth, So at 4000rpm on
> two smooth 3710 rpms on one not as smooth ??
>
> Alan
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403012#403012
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Daul Mags on the 914 |
| From: | "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net> |
Thank you Barry.
All of that seems to make sense, well it does make sense, i am just surprised the
difference in makes, as its about the same roughness on each mag, and as you
say much smoother on two.
Regards
Alan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403015#403015
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Daul Mags on the 914 |
| From: | "ploucandco" <jacques(at)platisource.com> |
Alan, what were your mag drop figures before the HT coil replacement? Also, did
you clearly see on the spark plugs (different colors) that you had an issue with
an HT coil?
Thanks, Jacques.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403016#403016
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Erratic voltage output |
| From: | paul <paul(at)controlapproach.com> |
VGhhbmtzIGZvciB0aGUgcG9pbnRzLiDCoEkgYWdyZWUuCgpJIGRpZCBub3QgZGlyZWN0bHkgc29s
ZGVyIHRoZSBjb25uZWN0aW9uLiBJIHVzZWQgIm5vIGNyaW1wIiB0ZXJtaW5hbCBodWJzIGRlc2ln
bmVkIGZvciBncm91bmQgd2lyZXMuIEkgcHJlc3VtZSB0aGV5IG1ha2UgdGhlc2UgYmVjYXVzZSBv
ZiB0aGUgY29ycm9zaW9uIGlzc3VlcyBjb21tb25seSBmb3VuZCBvbiBncm91bmQgbGVhZHMuIFRo
ZSB0cmVtaW5hbHMgYXJlIHByZWxvYWRlZCB3aXRoIGxvdyBtZWx0IHRlbXAgc29sZGVyIGFuZCBq
YWNrZXRlZCB3aXRoIGhlYXZ5IGd1YWdlIHNocmluayB0dWJlLiBUaGV5IGNvbXBsZXRlbHkgYXNz
ZW1ibGUgd2l0aCBhIGhlYXQgZ3VuIG5vdCBhIHNvbGRlcmluZyBpcm9uLiBBcyB0aGUgdGVybWlu
YWwgZW5kcyBhcmUgaGVhdGVkIHlvdSBjYW4gb2JzZXJ2ZSB0aGUgc29sZGVyIHR1cm4gdG8gbGlx
dWlkIGFuZCB0aGUgc2VtaS1jbGVhciBzaHJpbmsgdHViZSBoYXMgYW4gYWRoZXNpdmUgdGhhdCBs
aXF1aWZpZXMgYW5kIHNlYWxzIHRvIHRoZSB3aXJlIGluc3VsYXRpb24uIEEgYml0IHNwZW5keSwg
YnV0IEkgdGhpbmsgdGhlaXIgdGhlIHdheSB0byBnby4KSSBoYWQga25vdyBpZGVhIHRoYXQgZ3Jv
dW5kaW5nIHdhcyBzdWNoIGEgYmlnIGRlYWwuIEhvcGVmdWxseSB0aGUgcHJvYmxlbSBpcyBzb2x2
ZWQuwqAKUGF1bAoKLS0tLS0tLS0gT3JpZ2luYWwgbWVzc2FnZSAtLS0tLS0tLQpGcm9tOiBGTFlh
RElWRSA8Zmx5YWRpdmVAZ21haWwuY29tPiAKRGF0ZTogMDYvMTkvMjAxMyAgOTozMiBBTSAgKEdN
VC0wODowMCkgClRvOiByb3RheGVuZ2luZXMtbGlzdEBtYXRyb25pY3MuY29tIApTdWJqZWN0OiBS
ZTogUm90YXhFbmdpbmVzLUxpc3Q6IEVycmF0aWMgdm9sdGFnZSBvdXRwdXQgCiAKUGF1bDoKCkkg
anVzdCByZWFkIHlvdXIgcG9zdCBhbmQgc29tZXRoaW5nIGNhdWdodCBteSBleWU6IMKgwqAiSSBt
YWRlIHVwIGFub3RoZXIgZ3JvdW5kIHdpcmUgd2l0aCBzb2xkZXJlZCB3aXJlIGVuZHMgYW5kIHdh
dGVycHJvb2Ygc2hyaW5rIHR1YmluZy4iCgpZb3Ugc2hvdWxkIE5PVCBzb2xkZXIgdGhlIHdpcmUg
ZW5kcy4gwqBZb3Ugc2hvdWxkIE9OTFkgQ1JJTVAgdGhlbS4gwqBTb2xkZXJpbmcgY3JlYXRlcyB3
aGF0IGlzIGtub3cgYXMgYSBIQVJEUE9JTlQgYW5kIGNhdXNlcyB0aGUgd2lyZSB0byBmYWlsIGR1
ZSB0byB2aWJyYXRpb24sIHJpZ2h0IGF0IHRoZSBFTkQgcG9pbnQgb2YgdGhlIHNvbGRlciB0byB3
aXJlIGNvbm5lY3Rpb24uCgpOb3csIHRvwqBjb250cmFkaWN0wqB3aGF0IEkganVzdCBzYWlkOiDC
oEkgaGF2ZSBhIG1ldGhvZCBvZiBzb2xkZXJpbmcgdGhhdCBpcyBQZXJmZWN0bHkgQWNjZXB0YWJs
ZS4gVGhlIHN0ZXBzIGFyZToKQ2xlYW4gdGhlIHdpcmUKQ1JJTVAgb24gdGhlIGx1ZwpVc2luZyBT
SUxWRVIgU09MREVSIC0gU29sZGVyIE9OTFkgLSBPTkxZIC0gT05MWSAtIFRoZSBFTkQgb2YgdGhl
IHdpcmUgbmV4dCB0byB0aGUgcmluZyBsdWcuIMKgRE8gTk9UIGtlZXAgdGhlIGhlYXQgb24gdGhl
IHdpcmUgZm9yIGEgbG9uZyB0aW1lLiDCoE9ubHkgZW5vdWdoIHRpbWUgdG8gZ2V0IGEgZmxvdyBv
ZiBzb2xkZXIgYmV0d2VlbiB0aGUgd2lyZSBhbmQgdGhlIGx1Zy4gwqBJZiB5b3UgYXBwbHkgdG9v
IG11Y2ggaGVhdCBhbmQgdG9vIG11Y2ggdGltZSB0aGUgc29sZGVyIHdpbGwgV0lDSyBkb3duIHRo
ZSB3aXJlIGFuZCBjcmVhdGUgYSBIQVJEUE9JTlQuIMKgCkJ5IGRvaW5nIGl0IG15IHdheSB5b3Ug
Y3JlYXRlIGEgR1JFQVTCoE1lY2hhbmljYWzCoGFuZCBFbGVjdHJpY2FsIGNvbm5lY3Rpb24uCkFm
dGVyIHNvbGRlcmluZyB0aGUgY29ubmVjdGlvbiBDTEVBTiB0aGUgY29ubmVjdGlvbiB3aXRoIGFs
Y29ob2wgdG8gcmVtb3ZlIGFueSBmbHV4LgpJIGhhdmUgYmVlbiBkb2luZyB0aGlzIGZvciB5ZWFy
cyBhbmQgTkVWRVIgaGFkIGEgZmFpbHVyZSBlaXRoZXIgbWVjaGFuaWNhbGx5IG9yIGVsZWN0cmlj
YWxseS4KQUxTTzoKRG8gTk9UIHVzZSBTUEFERSBjcmltcCBvbiBjb25uZWN0b3JzLiDCoFVzZSBS
SU5HIGNyaW1wIG9uIGNvbm5lY3RvcnMuCldoeT8gwqAjMSB0aGV5IGFyZSBOT1QgYXBwcm92ZWQg
dmlhIEFDIDQzLTEzLiDCoCMyIFRoZXkgaGF2ZSBhIGJ1aWx0IGluIGRlc2lnbiBmYWlsdXJlIHBv
aW50Li4uIHRoZSBTUEFERSHCoApBTFNPICMyOgpZb3VyIHN0YXRlbWVudDogInNvIGFkZGl0aW9u
YWxseSB3ZSByYW4gYSAxMGdhIGNvcHBlciB3aXJlIGZyb20gdGhlIGJhc2UgbHVnIG9uIHRoZSB2
b2x0YWdlIHJlZ3VsYXRvciB0byB0aGUgbmVnYXRpdmUgdGVybWluYWwgY29ubmVjdGluZyBzdHVk
IGF0IHRoZSBiYXR0ZXJ5L2FpcmZyYW1lLsKgIiDCoFlvdSBhbHNvIGhhdmUgdG8gcnVuIHRoYXQg
U0FNRSB3aXJlIHRvIHRoZSBhaXJmcmFtZSBbQWlyZnJhbWUgR3JvdW5kXS4KRG8gbm90IHJlbHkg
b24gYSBzaW5nbGUgZ3JvdW5kIHBvaW50IHRvIGRvIGV2ZXJ5dGhpbmcuCkkganVzdCBwb3N0ZWQg
YW7CoGluIGRlcHRowqBIb3cgVG8gd2l0aMKgRXhwbGFuYXRpb25zLiDCoFRha2UgdGhlIHRpbWUg
dG8gcmVhZCBhbmQgdW5kZXJzdGFuZCB3aGF0IEkgd3JvdGUuIMKgSWYgeW91IGhhdmUgcXVlc3Rp
b25zIFBMRUFTRSBwb3N0IHRoZW0sIEkgd2lsbCBiZSBoYXBweSB0byBleHBsYWluLgpCYXJyeQoK
CgpPbiBNb24sIEp1biAxNywgMjAxMyBhdCAyOjA5IEFNLCBQYXVsIEdyaW1zdGFkIDxwYXVsQGNv
bnRyb2xhcHByb2FjaC5jb20+IHdyb3RlOgpXZSBoYXZlIGJlZW4gZXhwZXJpZW5jaW5nIHdpbGQg
Zmx1Y3R1YXRpb25zIG9uIHRoZSBhbXBlcmFnZSBtZXRlciwgcnVubmluZyBhIDkxMnVscyB3aXRo
IER5bm9uIDE4MCBFRklTIGVuZ2luZSBtb25pdG9yLiBUaGUgc3Bpa2VzIHJhbmdlIGZyb20gKzUg
dG8gLTYuIFZvbHRhZ2UgaXMgYWxzbyBoaWdoIChoaWdoIDEz4oCZcyksIGJ1dCB0aGVuIGl0IHNl
ZW1zIHRvIHNldHRsZSBkb3duIGFmdGVyIHRha2VvZmYuIEkgdGhvdWdodCB0aGUgaGlnaCB2b2x0
YWdlIG1heWJlIGJlY2F1c2Ugd2UganVzdCBpbnN0YWxsZWQgYSBuZXcgYmF0dGVyeS4KCldlIGFs
c28ganVzdCBpbnN0YWxsZWQgYSBuZXcgdm9sdGFnZSByZWd1bGF0b3IgYW5kIHdoZW4gd2UgZ3Jv
dW5kZWQgdGhlIHBsYW5lIGFuZCB0b29rIGEgbG9vayBhdCB0aGUgY29uZGl0aW9uIHdlIGZvdW5k
IHRoZSB0d28gcG93ZXIgbGVhZHMgZ29pbmcgaW50byB0aGUgcmVndWxhdG9yIHdlcmUgY29tcGxl
dGVseSBtZWx0ZWQgYW5kIHRoZSBoZWF0IHdhcyBzdGFydGluZyB0byBtZWx0IHRoZSBwbGFzdGlj
IG1vdW50aW5nIHNvY2tldCBvbiB0aGUgRHVjYXRpIHZvbHRhZ2UgcmVndWxhdG9yLiBXZSByZXBs
YWNlZCB0aGUgc3BhZGUgY29ubmVjdG9ycyBvbiB0aGUgbWFpbiBwb3dlciBsZWFkcyBhbmQgcmVw
bGFjZWQgdGhlIHdpcmluZyBzb2NrZXQgcGx1Zy1pbiBjb25uZWN0b3IgYXMgd2VsbC4KCldlIGhh
ZCBoZWFyZCB0aGF0IHRoZSBSb3RheCBlbmdpbmUgZWxlY3Ryb25pYyBzeXN0ZW0gaXMgdmVyeSBz
ZW5zaXRpdmUgdG8gdGhlIHJlcXVpcmVtZW50IG9mIHRoZSBncm91bmQgY29ubmVjdGlvbiwgc28g
YWRkaXRpb25hbGx5IHdlIHJhbiBhIDEwZ2EgY29wcGVyIHdpcmUgZnJvbSB0aGUgYmFzZSBsdWcg
b24gdGhlIHZvbHRhZ2UgcmVndWxhdG9yIHRvIHRoZSBuZWdhdGl2ZSB0ZXJtaW5hbCBjb25uZWN0
aW5nIHN0dWQgYXQgdGhlIGJhdHRlcnkvYWlyZnJhbWUuIFRoaXMgaGFzIG5vdCBzb2x2ZWQgdGhl
IHByb2JsZW0uIEkgZmxldyA3aG91cnMgbGFzdCB3ZWVrZW5kIGFuZCBuZWFyIHRoZSBlbmQgb2Yg
dGhlIGZsaWdodCB0aW1lLCBJIG5vdGljZWQgdGhlIGFtcCBnYXVnZSBzdGlsbCBqdW1waW5nIHVw
IGFuZCBkb3duLgoKSSBoYXZlIHNwb2tlbiB3aXRoIHNldmVyYWwga25vd2xlZGdlYWJsZSBSb3Rh
eCBndXlzIGFuZCBib3RoIGFza2VkIG1lIGlmIEkgcmFuIHRoZSBncm91bmQgZnJvbSB0aGUgYmFz
ZSBvZiB0aGUgdm9sdGFnZSByZWd1bGF0b3IgZGlyZWN0bHkgdG8gdGhlIGVuZ2luZSBibG9jaz8K
ClNvLCB0aGlzIGFmdGVybm9vbiBJIHJlbW92ZWQgdGhlIHdpcmUgc29ja2V0IHBsdWcgY29ubmVj
dG9yIGFuZCBpbnNwZWN0ZWQgdGhlIHdpcmUgZW5kcyBhbmQgY3JpbXBlZCBjb25uZWN0b3JzLiBU
aGVyZSB3YXMgbm8gc2lnbiBvZiBoZWF0IGRhbWFnZSwgc28gSSByZWNvbm5lY3RlZCB0aGUgcHJp
bWFyeSBjb25uZWN0aW9uIHBsdWcuIEkgbWFkZSB1cCBhbm90aGVyIGdyb3VuZCB3aXJlIHdpdGgg
c29sZGVyZWQgd2lyZSBlbmRzIGFuZCB3YXRlcnByb29mIHNocmluayB0dWJpbmcuIEkgdGhlbiBp
bnN0YWxsZWQgdGhlIG5ldyBncm91bmQgd2lyZSBmcm9tIHRoZSBtb3VudGluZyBib2x0IG9uIHRo
ZSBiYXNlIG9mIHRoZSB2b2x0YWdlIHJlZ3VsYXRvciBkaXJlY3RseSB0byB0aGUgZW5naW5lIGJs
b2NrLiBUb21vcnJvdyBJIHdpbGwgcnVuIHRoZSBlbmdpbmUgYW5kIHNlZSBpZiB0aGUgcHJvYmxl
bSBpcyBzb2x2ZWQuCgpIb3BlIHRoaXMgaGVscHMsIEkgd2lsbCBsZXQgeW91IGtub3cgaG93IGl0
IGdvZXMuCgpQYXVsIEdyaW1zdGFkLAoKVGVhbSBSVjEyCgpQb3J0bGFuZCwgT1IgwqDCoMKgwqDC
oAoKwqAKCkZyb206IG93bmVyLXJvdGF4ZW5naW5lcy1saXN0LXNlcnZlckBtYXRyb25pY3MuY29t
IFttYWlsdG86b3duZXItcm90YXhlbmdpbmVzLWxpc3Qtc2VydmVyQG1hdHJvbmljcy5jb21dIE9u
IEJlaGFsZiBPZiBDYXJsClNlbnQ6IFNhdHVyZGF5LCBKdW5lIDE1LCAyMDEzIDE6MjUgUE0KVG86
IHJvdGF4ZW5naW5lcy1saXN0QG1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20KU3ViamVjdDogUmU6IFJvdGF4RW5naW5l
cy1MaXN0OiBFcnJhdGljIHZvbHRhZ2Ugb3V0cHV0CgrCoAoKSGkgRG91ZwoKWW91IHN0YXRlZCB5
b3UgaGF2ZSBubyBsb29zZSBjb250YWN0cywgeW91IGNvdWxkIGhhdmUgYSBwb29yIGNvbnRhY3Qu
wqAgVHdvIHllYXJzIGFnb8KgSSBoYWQgYW7CoGludGVybWl0dGVudCBjaGFyZ2luZyBwcm9ibGVt
IHRoYXQgdG9vayB0d28gZGF5IHRvIHRyYWNlLiBJdCB3YXMgaW4gYW4gaW4tbGluZSBmdXNlIGhv
bGRlciwgdGhlIHJ1YmJlciBjb2F0ZWQgb25lcyB0aGF0IHRha2UgQVRDIGZ1c2VzLsKgVGhlIGZ1
c2UgbG9va2VkIGZhaXJseSBub3JtYWwgYnV0IHdoZW4gSSBjdXQgdGhlIGhvbGRlciBvcGVuIGl0
IHdhcyBjb3Jyb2RlZCBhbmQgYnVybnQuIFJlcGxhY2VkIHByb2JsZW0gZ29uZS4KCkNhcmwKCi0t
LS0tIE9yaWdpbmFsIE1lc3NhZ2UgLS0tLS0gCgpGcm9tOiBNYWNEb25hbGQgRG91ZwoKVG86IHJv
dGF4IGxpc3QKClNlbnQ6IEZyaWRheSwgSnVuZSAxNCwgMjAxMyAxMDo0NCBBTQoKU3ViamVjdDog
Um90YXhFbmdpbmVzLUxpc3Q6IEVycmF0aWMgdm9sdGFnZSBvdXRwdXQKCsKgCgpJJ20gaGF2aW5n
IGFuIGVycmF0aWMgdm9sdGFnZSBvdXRwdXQgcHJvYmxlbSBvbiBteSA5MTJVTCBwb3dlcmVkIENI
LTcwMS7CoCAKClRvIHRyeSBhbmQgZml4IHRoZSBwcm9ibGVtIEkgaGF2ZSByZXBsYWNlZCB0aGUg
dm9sdGFnZSByZWd1bGF0b3IgYW5kIHZlcmlmaWVkIEkgaGF2ZSBubyBsb29zZSBjb25uZWN0aW9u
cyBpbiB0aGUgZWxlY3RyaWNhbCBzeXN0ZW0uwqAgRXZlbiB3aXRoIGEgbmV3IHJlZ3VsYXRvciBJ
IGFtIHN0aWxsIGdldHRpbmcgdGhlIHNhbWUgdm9sdGFnZSBzcGlrZXMgd2hlbiBhdCBmdWxsIHBv
d2VyLsKgIEF0IGlkbGUgYW5kIGR1cmluZyBydW4tdXAgdGhlIHZvbHRhZ2UgcmVhZGluZyBvbiBt
eSBhbmFsb2cgVkRPIHZvbHRtZXRlciBpcyByb2NrIHNvbGlkLsKgIEl0IGluZGljYXRlcyBhYm91
dCAxNCB2b2x0cyBvbmNlIHVwIG9mZiBvZiBpZGxlIHBvd2VyIGFuZCBteSBkaWdpdGFsIHZvbHRt
ZXRlciBzaG93IGFib3V0IDEzLjYgVm9sdHMuwqAgT25jZSBJIGFwcGx5IHRha2VvZmYgcG93ZXIg
dGhlIGFuYWxvZyB2b2x0bWV0ZXIgbmVlZGxlIHN0YXJ0cyB0byB2aWJyYXRlIHdpbGRseSBwbHVz
IGFuZCBtaW51cyBhYm91dCAxLTIgdm9sdHMgYW5kIHRoZSBkaWdpdGFsIHZvbHRtZXRlciBiZWNv
bWVzIHVuc3RhYmxlLsKgIElmIEkgYW0gZmx5aW5nIHdpdGggYSBsaWdodCBlbGVjdHJpY2FsIGxv
YWQsIHRoZSBkaWdpdGFsIHZvbHRtZXRlciB0b3BzIG91dCBhdCBqdXN0IG92ZXIgMTQgdm9sdHMg
YnV0IGRyaWZ0cyBhcm91bmQgYXMgbG93IGFzIDEzLjcuwqAgSWYgSSBwdXQgb24gbXkgbmF2IGFu
ZCBzdHJvYmUgbGlnaHRzIHRoZSB2b2x0YWdlIGRyb3BzIHRvIDEzLjMtMTMuNiByYW5nZSBidXQg
dGhlIG5lZWRsZSBvbiB0aGUgYW5hbG9nIG1ldGVyIGNvbnRpbnVlcyB0byB2aWJyYXRlIHRoZSBz
YW1lLgoKVGhlIG9ubHkgb3RoZXIgY29tcG9uZW50cyAoYmVzaWRlIHRoZSByZWd1bGF0b3IpIGlu
IHRoZSBlbGVjdHJpY2FsIHN5c3RlbSBJIGNhbiB0aGluayBvZiB3aGljaCBtaWdodCBiZSBjYXVz
aW5nIHRoZSB2b2x0YWdlIHNwaWtlcyBhcmUgdGhlIGNhcGFjaXRvciBvciBhIHByb2JsZW0gd2l0
aCB0aGUgYWN0dWFsIGFsdGVybmF0b3IgY29pbHMuwqAgSSB0aG91Z2h0IHRoZSBwcm9ibGVtIG1h
eSBoYXZlIGJlZW4gYSBiYWQgYW5hbG9nIGdhdWdlIGJ1dCBnaXZlbiB0aGF0IHRoZSBkaWdpdGFs
IHJlYWRpbmdzIGFyZSBhbHNvIGVycmF0aWMgSSBiZWxpZXZlIGl0IHRvIGJlIGEgbGVnaXRpbWF0
ZSBpc3N1ZSBhbmQgbm90IHNpbXBseSBhIGRpc3BsYXkgcHJvYmxlbS4KCkknbSBwcmV0dHkgZ29v
ZCBhdCBjaGFzaW5nIGVsZWN0cm9ucyBidXQgdGhpcyBpc3N1ZSBoYXMgbWUgc3R1bXBlZC7CoCBB
bnlvbmUgaGF2ZSBhbnkgaWRlYXMgd2hhdCBjb3VsZCBiZSBjYXVzaW5nIG15IGVycmF0aWMgdm9s
dGFnZSBvdXRwdXQ/CgpEb3VnIE1hY0RvbmFsZApDSC03MDEsIE5vcnRod2VzdGVybiBPbnRhcmlv
CgrCoAoKwqAKwqAKaHJlZj0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy5tYXRyb25pY3MuY29tL05hdmlnYXRvcj9Sb3Rh
eEVuZ2luZXMtTGlzdCI+aHR0cDovL3d3dy5tYXRyb25pY3MuY29tL05hdmlnYXRvcj9Sb3RheEVu
Z2luZXMtTGlzdApocmVmPSJodHRwOi8vZm9ydW1zLm1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20iPmh0dHA6Ly9mb3J1
bXMubWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbQpocmVmPSJodHRwOi8vd3d3Lm1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20vY29udHJpYnV0
aW9uIj5odHRwOi8vd3d3Lm1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20vYwrCoArCoApodHRwOi8vd3d3Lm1hdHJvbmlj
cy5jb20vTmF2aWdhdG9yP1JvdGF4RW5naW5lcy1MaXN0Cmh0dHA6Ly9mb3J1bXMubWF0cm9uaWNz
LmNvbQpodHRwOi8vd3d3Lm1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20vY29udHJpYnV0aW9uCsKgCgoKaXN0IiB0YXJn
ZXQ9Il9ibGFuayI+aHR0cDovL3d3dy5tYXRyb25pY3MuY29tL05hdmlnYXRvcj9Sb3RheEVuZ2lu
ZXMtTGlzdAp0cDovL2ZvcnVtcy5tYXRyb25pY3MuY29tCl9ibGFuayI+aHR0cDovL3d3dy5tYXRy
b25pY3MuY29tL2NvbnRyaWJ1dGlvbgoKCgoKXy09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09
PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT0KXy09ICAgICAgICAgIC0gVGhlIFJvdGF4
RW5naW5lcy1MaXN0IEVtYWlsIEZvcnVtIC0KXy09IFVzZSB0aGUgTWF0cm9uaWNzIExpc3QgRmVh
dHVyZXMgTmF2aWdhdG9yIHRvIGJyb3dzZQpfLT0gdGhlIG1hbnkgTGlzdCB1dGlsaXRpZXMgc3Vj
aCBhcyBMaXN0IFVuL1N1YnNjcmlwdGlvbiwKXy09IEFyY2hpdmUgU2VhcmNoICYgRG93bmxvYWQs
IDctRGF5IEJyb3dzZSwgQ2hhdCwgRkFRLApfLT0gUGhvdG9zaGFyZSwgYW5kIG11Y2ggbXVjaCBt
b3JlOgpfLT0KXy09ICAgLS0+IGh0dHA6Ly93d3cubWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbS9OYXZpZ2F0b3I/Um90
YXhFbmdpbmVzLUxpc3QKXy09Cl8tPT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09
PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09Cl8tPSAgICAgICAgICAgICAgIC0gTUFUUk9OSUNTIFdF
QiBGT1JVTVMgLQpfLT0gU2FtZSBncmVhdCBjb250ZW50IGFsc28gYXZhaWxhYmxlIHZpYSB0aGUg
V2ViIEZvcnVtcyEKXy09Cl8tPSAgIC0tPiBodHRwOi8vZm9ydW1zLm1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20KXy09
Cl8tPT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09
PT09PT09Cl8tPSAgICAgICAgICAgICAtIExpc3QgQ29udHJpYnV0aW9uIFdlYiBTaXRlIC0KXy09
ICBUaGFuayB5b3UgZm9yIHlvdXIgZ2VuZXJvdXMgc3VwcG9ydCEKXy09ICAgICAgICAgICAgICAg
ICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgLU1hdHQgRHJhbGxlLCBMaXN0IEFkbWluLgpfLT0gICAtLT4gaHR0cDov
L3d3dy5tYXRyb25pY3MuY29tL2NvbnRyaWJ1dGlvbgpfLT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09
PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PQoK
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Daul Mags on the 914 |
| From: | "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net> |
Hi Jacques.
My mag drops have always been around the 300 mark.
I had the same problem under a year ago and ended up swapping coils over
left to right to confirm it was a ht coil.
I did not make a note and have forgotten which one it was , so it could be the
previous new one, and maybe i should have cleaned the connectors first. but its
too late now, Can i get a the mag coil tested now its off???
Obvious drop 500 + and rough running and banging ,
Did all the usual , swapped caps, and plugs,
Standard coffee colour , Did note here that the Densol plugs burnt much cleaner
the the NGK , WHY ?
The plugs in the UK are about 10 each for the 914, and about 2 on the net,
so email Densol , are they and different, No universal to the number.
Run the engine 1 minute felt the temperature front bottom plugs colder, took
them out, looked slightly wet, so guessed that was it.
Regards
Alan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403031#403031
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TURBO T <turbot(at)shaw.ca> |
Where should the brown ground wire on a 532 be attached to ?
To airframe & engine block ?
Am in process of installing a Key West regulator that has a 12Volt DC plug that
is labeled to ground.
It should probably go to frame & block also, But would it be a good idea to connect
it to the brown engine wire also ?
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MacDonald Doug <dougsnash(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Erratic voltage output |
I Finally found the source of my erratic voltage readings.- After going t
hrough my entire charging circuit from regulator/engine through to the batt
ery and verifying there were no poor connection, I tried replacing the VDO
voltmeter.- Sure enough, the replacement meter is rock solid through all
phases of flight.- I am still seeing a 0.3VDC swing on the digital meter
but I am not overly worried about it.- I'm not sure what the problem with
the old VDO voltmeter was but a friend had an identical surplus voltmeter
for his project.=0A=0A=0AI like it when problems have simple solutions.-
Besides it was a good excuse to go through and clean up all of my electrica
l connections and install star washers on them.=0A=0AThanks all for the gui
dance.=0A=0ADoug M=0ACH-701, NW Ontario, Canada=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Erratic voltage output |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
That VDO .3VDC swing is normal. I wouldn't worry about it.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403359#403359
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | carb synch hose sizes |
| From: | "JohnE" <j_l_walsh(at)yahoo.com> |
I'm going to synch my carbs. Does anyone know what size hoses are used to hook
into the manifold pressure port? I have a digital manometer (dual) that I'm
planning on using. I figure I can get hoses for testing at an auto supply store.
The manometer connects to 1/4 inch npt btw. I figure I'll need to get some
sort of reducer as well. thanks. John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403430#403430
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: carb synch hose sizes |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi John,
I just use vacuum hoses from the auto parts store. Then adapt that to the size
you need with a fitting from the hardware store.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403431#403431
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: carb synch hose sizes |
| From: | "JohnE" <j_l_walsh(at)yahoo.com> |
Roger Lee wrote:
> Hi John,
>
> I just use vacuum hoses from the auto parts store. Then adapt that to the size
you need with a fitting from the hardware store.
Thanks for the reply. That's what I am planning on doing. You don't by chance
know what size hose to buy? (saves me a trip to the airport, the auto parts
store is close to my house)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403435#403435
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: carb synch hose sizes |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
They are the small ones. I think around 1/4" OD and maybe 1/8" or less ID. The
hole size should be small and the smaller the better. We don't care about volume
just the vacuum. The larger hole sizes will just give you more needle fluctuation
to dampen out. I would put a an adjustable needle valve inline on both
vacuum lines so you can dampen any gauge needle fluctuation. I'm still old school
in on my connection at the cross over. I just pull off the left side of the
cross over tube rubber end. Then I know the carbs are separated and not leaking
verses if I just pinch off the rubber between carbs. I then just use a barbed
fitting and up-size to the hose end I need on the 90 degree fitting (3/8"
poly hose) off the top of the manifold and a smooth shank fitting that goes into
the rubber end on the cross over tube. (smooth shank= I took a barbed 3/8"
barbed fitting and sanded off the barbs)
You can certainly use the manifold port screws that are on top of the manifolds
to make the connection, but then you still have to separate the carbs by pinching
off the cross over tube rubber hose.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403456#403456
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: carb synch hose sizes |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Here's an older picture, but it gets the point across and this works very well.
I would use regular vacuum lines and not the clear plastic. The plastic does
work.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403473#403473
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/carb_sync_150_165.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: carb synch hose sizes |
| From: | "JohnE" <j_l_walsh(at)yahoo.com> |
Roger Lee wrote:
> Here's an older picture, but it gets the point across and this works very well.
I would use regular vacuum lines and not the clear plastic. The plastic does
work.
Thanks for the picture. Makes sense to me now. How close are you able to get
the difference between the carbs? Also, do you make the adjustments to a running
engine or do you shut off between adjustments?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403497#403497
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: carb synch hose sizes |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
I can get the needles dead on for idle and the high rpm settings. Once you do it
a few times it doesn't take long. If you do it each annual or 100 hrs. it's
a piece of cake. I always do a running engine. I wear goggles and ear muffs and
I give that prop a wide berth. The wheels are always chocked and someone is
in the cockpit.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403509#403509
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 914 Electric Fuel pumps |
| From: | "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net> |
Hi All.
The other day haven flown, I was sitting on the ground engine stopped,
I was fiddling with the GPS for about 25 mins, trying to learn how to store a route,
I had left both fuel pumps running, ??
Heard the noise but it did not register, Crazy.
Any damage or problem I may have caused , pumps running engine stopped on ground
about 25-30 minutes.
Alan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403538#403538
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 914 Electric Fuel pumps |
| From: | Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com> |
Hi Alan,
As long as your fuel selector is set for fuel flow and there's fuel flowing through
the pumps, they are probably OK.
If you ever run a pump without fuel flow through it, it will only last about a
minute before it fails.
The fuel flow is absolutely necessary to cool and lubricate the pump.
How was the flight?
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop.
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger(at)mac.com
On Jun 27, 2013, at 4:59 PM, Alan Carter wrote:
Hi All.
The other day haven flown, I was sitting on the ground engine stopped,
I was fiddling with the GPS for about 25 mins, trying to learn how to store a route,
I had left both fuel pumps running, ??
Heard the noise but it did not register, Crazy.
Any damage or problem I may have caused , pumps running engine stopped on ground
about 25-30 minutes.
Alan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 914 Electric Fuel pumps |
| From: | Dave <daberti(at)sbcglobal.net> |
That may be if the pump is dry
Dave Alberti
262-853-5421
On Jun 27, 2013, at 5:10 PM, Robert Borger wrote:
>
> Hi Alan,
>
> As long as your fuel selector is set for fuel flow and there's fuel flowing through
the pumps, they are probably OK.
>
> If you ever run a pump without fuel flow through it, it will only last about
a minute before it fails.
>
> The fuel flow is absolutely necessary to cool and lubricate the pump.
>
> How was the flight?
>
> Blue skies & tailwinds,
> Bob Borger
> Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop.
> Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
> 3705 Lynchburg Dr.
> Corinth, TX 76208-5331
> Cel: 817-992-1117
> rlborger(at)mac.com
>
> On Jun 27, 2013, at 4:59 PM, Alan Carter wrote:
>
>
> Hi All.
> The other day haven flown, I was sitting on the ground engine stopped,
> I was fiddling with the GPS for about 25 mins, trying to learn how to store a
route, I had left both fuel pumps running, ??
> Heard the noise but it did not register, Crazy.
> Any damage or problem I may have caused , pumps running engine stopped on ground
about 25-30 minutes.
>
> Alan
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 914 Electric Fuel pumps |
| From: | "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net> |
Hi Bob.
Fuel selector was on, pumps working through out but it did notice a change in
tone towards the end,
The flight was good, the weather was good, the plane was good, and i was good in
talking to Thames Radar, need the practice,
Just by coincidence radar asked me to turn East, to avoid traffic,
That evening i got an e-mail from the Capitan of the airliner, he had recognized
my voice from years ago, and had me on his TECAS , and was watching me out of
his window.
Small world. right place at right time.
Alan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403541#403541
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 914 Electric Fuel pumps |
| From: | "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net> |
Hi all.
The pumps run continuously in flight, Fuel is going through, but on the ground
no air flow around pumps,?
Fuel returning to tank, via carbs bowels ? i think?
Is there any chance of the fuel getting into the engine,? ie small jet nozzle .
Alan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403542#403542
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 914 Electric Fuel pumps |
| From: | Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com> |
Alan,
One of the pumps runs continuously in the air. The other should be off. No more
air flow around them in the air than on the ground if they are under the baggage
compartment as per build manual. They are cooled by fuel flow through them.
There's no fuel coming out of the float bowls except through the main jet. The
float controls that and if it shuts the fuel off then no more fuel can get into
the bowl. Excess fuel returns to the tank via the fuel pressure regulator.
There should be no chance of fuel getting into the engine if all is plumbed correctly
and the float is operating properly. There is an overflow on the float
bowl should excess fuel be introduced but, if all else is correct, that shouldn't
happen.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop.
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger(at)mac.com
On Jun 27, 2013, at 5:40 PM, Alan Carter wrote:
Hi all.
The pumps run continuously in flight, Fuel is going through, but on the ground
no air flow around pumps,?
Fuel returning to tank, via carbs bowels ? i think?
Is there any chance of the fuel getting into the engine,? ie small jet nozzle .
Alan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 914 Electric Fuel pumps |
| From: | Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com> |
Alan,
Brain fart. The 914 float bowl is pressurized and therefore can not have an overflow.
The 912 has the float bowl overflow.
No fuel gets out of the float bowl on a 914 except through the main jet or starting
carb (often referred to as "Choke").
So there should be no fuel getting into the engine with the fuel pumps on and engine
not running.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop.
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger(at)mac.com
On Jun 27, 2013, at 7:19 PM, Robert Borger wrote:
Alan,
One of the pumps runs continuously in the air. The other should be off. No more
air flow around them in the air than on the ground if they are under the baggage
compartment as per build manual. They are cooled by fuel flow through them.
There's no fuel coming out of the float bowls except through the main jet. The
float controls that and if it shuts the fuel off then no more fuel can get into
the bowl. Excess fuel returns to the tank via the fuel pressure regulator.
There should be no chance of fuel getting into the engine if all is plumbed correctly
and the float is operating properly. There is an overflow on the float
bowl should excess fuel be introduced but, if all else is correct, that shouldn't
happen.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop.
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: 817-992-1117
rlborger(at)mac.com
On Jun 27, 2013, at 5:40 PM, Alan Carter wrote:
Hi all.
The pumps run continuously in flight, Fuel is going through, but on the ground
no air flow around pumps,?
Fuel returning to tank, via carbs bowels ? i think?
Is there any chance of the fuel getting into the engine,? ie small jet nozzle .
Alan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 914 Electric Fuel pumps |
| From: | "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net> |
Thanks Bob.
Float bowls and needle jets ets, its all coming back to me now, this old age is
a sod of a thing. I,m glad flying is a bit like riding a bicycle or i would really
be stuck.
Regards.
Alan
PS. I just have one enemy up there, the weather, can have a nasty sting in its
tail like a wasp, so i treat it like the police and traffic wardens, and avoid
it whenever possible.
Regards
Alan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403557#403557
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 914 Electric Fuel pumps |
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
Hi Alan:
Well, you just tested the battery and the fuel pumps.
Did you shut off the Master before you went home?
If so ALL IS WELL!
No damage done - No Blood, No foul.
*Barry*
On Thu, Jun 27, 2013 at 5:59 PM, Alan Carter wrote:
> alancarteresq(at)onetel.net>
>
> Hi All.
> The other day haven flown, I was sitting on the ground engine stopped,
> I was fiddling with the GPS for about 25 mins, trying to learn how to
> store a route, I had left both fuel pumps running, ??
> Heard the noise but it did not register, Crazy.
> Any damage or problem I may have caused , pumps running engine stopped on
> ground about 25-30 minutes.
>
> Alan
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403538#403538
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RotaxEngines 912uls power loss on takeoff |
| From: | paul <paul(at)controlapproach.com> |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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 914 Electric Fuel pumps |
| From: | "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net> |
Barry.
Yes i did,
At the time the pumps where running i was sitting in the plane trying to figure
out how two store a flight plan in the sky map 111c.
and this noise was going on in the background,and i took no notice of it.
then after about 20-30 minutes the penny dropped, and i realized it was the pumps
running. I won,t be doing that again,
I am hoping to fly today, just a short local.
Regards
Alan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403775#403775
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Daul Mags on the 914 |
| From: | "ploucandco" <jacques(at)platisource.com> |
Hello Alan,
Can you tell me how you came to the conclusion that you need to replace an HT coil
and which one to replace?
I seems to have the same issue you had in the past, went to a ROTAX dealer who
analysed my engine and told me that the issue is with the carbs and not the ignition.
But was not able to solve it...
Thanks, Jacques
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403833#403833
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RotaxEngines 912uls power loss on takeoff |
| From: | "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com> |
Check for soot on the bottom of one of the carb float bowl!
Ira
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403836#403836
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RotaxEngines 912uls power loss on takeoff |
| From: | paul <paul(at)controlapproach.com> |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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RotaxEngines 912uls power loss on takeoff |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Paul,
That bulletin is only a recommendation. You should put a mechanical pump inline
and see what the fuel pressure really is and make sure that is the problem, otherwise
you may just end up just throwing money at it until you find it. It could
be a few other things.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403841#403841
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine run on when trying to stop. |
| From: | "Thumper" <dlong1957(at)yahoo.com> |
I am putting this out there mostly for Roger but chime in as needed. Rotax 912ULS
almost 800 hours on engine.
Problem: Engine will continue to run diesel mode when I kill the mag switches when
the engine is hot.
Symptoms: I have tried one mag at a time, adding a little throttle before turning
them off, cooling the engine with a long low power decent, Idle speed is 1800-2000rpm,
changed antifreeze, replaced carb balance crossover tube (found a
hole), changed spark plugs, checked wires for any pulled out of connectors, grounds
are all tight on the top of engine where coils are mounted......
History. No problems last summer. This year the problem started after returning
from Sun-N-Fun but it is not even real hot yet here in W TN. I have been running
a lot of 100LL in the past year as I fly 30-50 hours a month and need fuel
to get home. At first it was intermittent now about 80% of the time. Tried
changing spark plugs, drained fuel and now only have 93 pump gas with alcohol,
did find a hole in the carb balance tube and repaired it, sometimes the only
way to get it to stop is turn off the fuel valve. If it is dieseling I can
advance the throttle and it speeds up. On warm up and run up I do get the proper
120-150 RPM drop when doing a mag check. I did a good mechanical carb balance
by the book before leaving for Sun-N-Fun and then had the carbs vacuum balance
checked by Lockwood when in Florida and they said it could not be any better,
but I was not having the problem then. I did watch the online fuels webinar
and did not always run the engine above 5000 as they recommended on 100LL.
But I do now.
Any help Roger or others can give me I will take. This has to be hard on my engine.
Thanks ahead of time for the help.
Dennis Long
--------
Dennis Long
Oakland TN
2000 Aeroprakt A20 Vista Cruiser
Previously Kolb Mark IIIC, 94 Firestar, 84 Ultrastar.
700+hours since 1/1/2009
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403863#403863
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine run on when trying to stop. |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
Dennis, I always recommend doing the cheap things first
1. Check you mag switch grounds. If you have a key switch like a Cessna,
add a dedicated ground. If you can get out the switch easily try grounding
the switches when the engine is in diesel mode IF AND ONLY IF it can be
done safely.
2. If you have toggle switches for your mags, check to make sure they have
not failed internally. Even if you have to replace them to test, you're
looking at $10 for a couple at Rat Shack.
Rick Girard
On Wed, Jul 3, 2013 at 9:42 AM, Thumper wrote:
>
> I am putting this out there mostly for Roger but chime in as needed.
> Rotax 912ULS almost 800 hours on engine.
>
> Problem: Engine will continue to run diesel mode when I kill the mag
> switches when the engine is hot.
>
> Symptoms: I have tried one mag at a time, adding a little throttle before
> turning them off, cooling the engine with a long low power decent, Idle
> speed is 1800-2000rpm, changed antifreeze, replaced carb balance crossover
> tube (found a hole), changed spark plugs, checked wires for any pulled out
> of connectors, grounds are all tight on the top of engine where coils are
> mounted......
>
> History. No problems last summer. This year the problem started after
> returning from Sun-N-Fun but it is not even real hot yet here in W TN. I
> have been running a lot of 100LL in the past year as I fly 30-50 hours a
> month and need fuel to get home. At first it was intermittent now about
> 80% of the time. Tried changing spark plugs, drained fuel and now only
> have 93 pump gas with alcohol, did find a hole in the carb balance tube and
> repaired it, sometimes the only way to get it to stop is turn off the fuel
> valve. If it is dieseling I can advance the throttle and it speeds up. On
> warm up and run up I do get the proper 120-150 RPM drop when doing a mag
> check. I did a good mechanical carb balance by the book before leaving for
> Sun-N-Fun and then had the carbs vacuum balance checked by Lockwood when in
> Florida and they said it could not be any better, but I was not having the
> problem then. I did watch the online fuels webinar and did not always run
> the engine above 5000 as!
> they recommended on 100LL. But I do now.
>
> Any help Roger or others can give me I will take. This has to be hard on
> my engine.
>
> Thanks ahead of time for the help.
> Dennis Long
>
> --------
> Dennis Long
> Oakland TN
> 2000 Aeroprakt A20 Vista Cruiser
> Previously Kolb Mark IIIC, 94 Firestar, 84 Ultrastar.
> 700+hours since 1/1/2009
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403863#403863
>
>
--
Zulu Delta
Mk IIIC
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RotaxEngines 912uls power loss on takeoff |
| From: | paul <paul(at)controlapproach.com> |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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine run on when trying to stop. |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
This issue can usually be traced back to either a bad or no carb sync or as Rick
pointed out the number one cause of dieseling is a bad wire. It may be attached,
but not very good. It could as Rick pointed out be a bad switch or a bad
wired connection in that link. This is where I would focus my attention first.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403889#403889
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine run on when trying to stop. |
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
Dennis:
For an engine to run it takes four (4) things:
1 - Fuel
2 - Oxygen
3 - Heat usually in the way of a spark
4 - Correct timing
For an engine to Diesel it takes any one OR more of the following:
1 - Fuel - YES - Most definitely - BUT, we are not talking about too much
fuel or too little fuel - We are saying you must have something to burn for
ANY type of combustion to take place.
2 - Oxygen - YES - Most definitely
3 - HEAT - And not a SPARK! Heat as in a HOT SPOT - A glowing carbon spot
- A glowing BURR such as a bad spark plug thread hanging into the cylinder
- A glowing BURR on the spark plug.
4 - Timing - NO - If the timing was bad you would not have a smooth running
engine and your Mag check would be bad.
My GUESS is go with #3!
Oh! Mag switch? Which make and model Mag Switch do you have? If it is a
Bendix with the START position - There is an AD on that switch and it
should be checked annually.
*Barry*
On Wed, Jul 3, 2013 at 10:42 AM, Thumper wrote:
>
> I am putting this out there mostly for Roger but chime in as needed.
> Rotax 912ULS almost 800 hours on engine.
>
> Problem: Engine will continue to run diesel mode when I kill the mag
> switches when the engine is hot.
>
> Symptoms: I have tried one mag at a time, adding a little throttle before
> turning them off, cooling the engine with a long low power decent, Idle
> speed is 1800-2000rpm, changed antifreeze, replaced carb balance crossover
> tube (found a hole), changed spark plugs, checked wires for any pulled out
> of connectors, grounds are all tight on the top of engine where coils are
> mounted......
>
> History. No problems last summer. This year the problem started after
> returning from Sun-N-Fun but it is not even real hot yet here in W TN. I
> have been running a lot of 100LL in the past year as I fly 30-50 hours a
> month and need fuel to get home. At first it was intermittent now about
> 80% of the time. Tried changing spark plugs, drained fuel and now only
> have 93 pump gas with alcohol, did find a hole in the carb balance tube and
> repaired it, sometimes the only way to get it to stop is turn off the fuel
> valve. If it is dieseling I can advance the throttle and it speeds up. On
> warm up and run up I do get the proper 120-150 RPM drop when doing a mag
> check. I did a good mechanical carb balance by the book before leaving for
> Sun-N-Fun and then had the carbs vacuum balance checked by Lockwood when in
> Florida and they said it could not be any better, but I was not having the
> problem then. I did watch the online fuels webinar and did not always run
> the engine above 5000 as!
> they recommended on 100LL. But I do now.
>
> Any help Roger or others can give me I will take. This has to be hard on
> my engine.
>
> Thanks ahead of time for the help.
> Dennis Long
>
> --------
> Dennis Long
> Oakland TN
> 2000 Aeroprakt A20 Vista Cruiser
> Previously Kolb Mark IIIC, 94 Firestar, 84 Ultrastar.
> 700+hours since 1/1/2009
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403863#403863
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RotaxEngines 912uls power loss on takeoff |
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
Paul:
Question: Where is the sensor located in relation to the closest fitting
in the direction of fuel flow?
Why do I ask? Fluid Dynamics 101 - The tap in the feed line must be 7 x
the ID BACK from the nearest fitting.
I'm not going to get into the complete answer but the simple answer is wave
progression with peaks and troughs. If you are too close or at a trough
there will be fluctuations and low pressure readings.
*Barry*
*"Do you know why pilots think they are mechanics? Because they can buy
tools at Home Depot.'*
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RotaxEngines 912uls power loss on takeoff |
| From: | John Cox <rv10pro(at)gmail.com> |
LOVE that quote! Don't forget to research Matt Dralle's fuel accumulator
as a potential fix along with the 7x I.d. factoid.
John
On Jul 4, 2013 5:44 AM, "FLYaDIVE" wrote:
> Paul:
>
> Question: Where is the sensor located in relation to the closest fitting
> in the direction of fuel flow?
>
> Why do I ask? Fluid Dynamics 101 - The tap in the feed line must be 7 x
> the ID BACK from the nearest fitting.
> I'm not going to get into the complete answer but the simple answer is
> wave progression with peaks and troughs. If you are too close or at a
> trough there will be fluctuations and low pressure readings.
>
> *Barry*
>
> *"Do you know why pilots think they are mechanics? Because they can buy
> tools at Home Depot.'*
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine run on when trying to stop. |
Dennis,
I have had this problem for about a year (or more) now. I have done the
carbs,gearbox shimming,fuel additives,new plugs,bore scoping cylinders for
carbon deposits,high octane boosters/gas,shut down at higher rpms,gone to a
lighter prop( which helped a little),etc..you name it I have done it ALL to
no avail.( I thought I was the only one in the country with this problem)
Now when my engine diesels ,it turns backwards about 3-6 revolutions.( my
theory is that the prop stops at the peak of the"dogs" in the gearbox and
it flips the prop backwards) As a result ,I have to do the valve check to
make sure I don't have any air ingestion in the lifters (I have done it at
least a dozen times and can do this check in my sleep now) I have never
found any air, at least according to the tappet clearance check Rotax
specifies.
I thought about using Velcro to attach my cowl as it would come off easier
during these checks ! (lol)
However, I have not had this problem in the last few months because I have
used a different shutdown method and it appears to be working well.
I now pull the throttle back to about 1500 rpm,shut off one mag then pull
further back to about 1000-1100 rpm then shut off the other mag. This seems
to have solved my problem, even with a warm engine (mine never really gets
hot in my radial nosed Kitfox)
Prior to this method I would shut down at around 1800 rpm and then I
might get the diseling on occasion.
I know the gearbox doesn't like low rpm's but you are only there for a
very short time before the engine quits.
Give this a shot and see if it works for you.
Please let us know.
Dick Maddux
912 UL (400 hrs tt)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine run on when trying to stop. |
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
I swear, I have never heard of an engine with more reported issues than the
ROTAX. I was once told: "It is not the engine, it is the operators." But,
even then, shouldn't ROTAX design an engine to be at least somewhat idiot
proof?
My professor once said: The only way to make something idiot proof is to
remove the idiot. But, even then - Fifty million Frenchmen can't be wrong!
*Barry*
On Thu, Jul 4, 2013 at 11:36 AM, wrote:
> **
> Dennis,
> I have had this problem for about a year (or more) now. I have done the
> carbs,gearbox shimming,fuel additives,new plugs,bore scoping cylinders for
> carbon deposits,high octane boosters/gas,shut down at higher rpms,gone to a
> lighter prop( which helped a little),etc..you name it I have done it ALL to
> no avail.( I thought I was the only one in the country with this problem)
> Now when my engine diesels ,it turns backwards about 3-6 revolutions.( my
> theory is that the prop stops at the peak of the"dogs" in the gearbox and
> it flips the prop backwards) As a result ,I have to do the valve check to
> make sure I don't have any air ingestion in the lifters (I have done it at
> least a dozen times and can do this check in my sleep now) I have never
> found any air, at least according to the tappet clearance check Rotax
> specifies.
> I thought about using Velcro to attach my cowl as it would come off easier
> during these checks ! (lol)
> However, I have not had this problem in the last few months because I have
> used a different shutdown method and it appears to be working well.
> I now pull the throttle back to about 1500 rpm,shut off one mag then pull
> further back to about 1000-1100 rpm then shut off the other mag. This seems
> to have solved my problem, even with a warm engine (mine never really gets
> hot in my radial nosed Kitfox)
> Prior to this method I would shut down at around 1800 rpm and then I
> might get the diseling on occasion.
> I know the gearbox doesn't like low rpm's but you are only there for a
> very short time before the engine quits.
> Give this a shot and see if it works for you.
> Please let us know.
> Dick Maddux
> 912 UL (400 hrs tt)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine run on when trying to stop. |
| From: | "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net> |
Hi Barry.
I tend to agree with you, at 28000 to 30000 I expect better,
they seem to have got this wonderful reputation, but they are not so wonderful
in my opinion for that sort of money, but I guess there's not a lot of choice
out there.
Alan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404010#404010
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine run on when trying to stop. |
| From: | "Thumper" <dlong1957(at)yahoo.com> |
Dennis here, ease off on the Rotax bashing please. It is not a Rotax part that
is bad. As time went on a little more I did not have time to check switches or
wiring but the right toggle switch now is the culprit. OR the wiring to it.
Now it does not drop RPM on run up, as of yesterdays 8 hours of flying and multiple
stops, or even make the engine run rough. So now all I have to do is
track that down. Temporarily I just have to hit the primer button once and it
stops fine. My only issues has been trying to stop the engine not make it run,
the best problem to have. 50+ hours last month, how about you. Guess I fly
too much, a good problem to have.
Thanks for all of the help, now to find a wiring schematic to guide me on connections.
Thanks a lot flyers.
Dennis in West Tennessee.
345+ hours since May 5th 2012 on this airplane.
Fly Safe and Fly Often my friends.
--------
Dennis Long
Oakland TN
2000 Aeroprakt A20 Vista Cruiser
Previously Kolb Mark IIIC, 94 Firestar, 84 Ultrastar.
700+hours since 1/1/2009
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404041#404041
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine run on when trying to stop. |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Dennis,
Glad it worked out. Usually that type of issue is a wire or the switch. Nice to
see someone taking advantage of lots of flight time.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404047#404047
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine run on when trying to stop. |
| From: | "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net> |
50 hours last month, i,m lucky to get 50 a year.
Alan.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404057#404057
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine run on when trying to stop. |
Dennis,
Glad you are nailing down your problem. I too replaced the wiring in my
mag switches and the mag switch itself but that didn't cure the problem. I
believe my problem is not the same as yours. In any event my shutdown
procedure seems to be working well so I will live with it. My engine starts and
runs extremely well and I do like it even though I believe I have worked on
it more then any of my Lyc/Cont engines on the 13 other aircraft I have
owned thru the years. But then they all take work This group is a life saver
for the many problems that crop up. I live in an area that is pretty devoid
of Rotax engines so the knowledge here really helps.
Dick
Maddux
912UL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dynon EGT D180 Erratic |
| From: | "JohnF" <n29cx(at)ridgeviewtel.us> |
One EGT reads in about correct range (+/-) 10-degrees of the other probe, but it
'jumps up and down about 10 to 20 degrees.
I am going to replace the probe's connectors that go to the D180 and if that doesn't
do it I probably will change the probe, but hesitate to spend the money
if it is not really necessary.
Any suggestions?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404130#404130
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | I Love Left handed drill bits |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
Let's face it, there are ham handed people in this world who should not be
allowed near fine machinery. The fellow who logged that he "cleaned" the
carbs on the 912 belonging to my customer is one. He put the fixation screw
holding the jet needle in so tight that the screw driver slot just stripped
off its ears when I tried to get it out. Soaked it with PB Blaster for 36
hours and no luck. Chucked the piston in my lathe, touched the top of the
screw with a center drill and chucked up a left handed drill bit. Took
longer to set up than it did for the drill to pull the screw out. As you
can see by the picture the needle is quite literally jammed into the bottom
of the screw. The carb piston, thankfully, is completely pristeen.
Did I mention that I love left handed drill bits?
Rick Girard
--
Zulu Delta
Mk IIIC
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: I Love Left handed drill bits |
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
*"THE REASON WHY PILOTS THINK THEY ARE MECHANICS IS BECAUSE THEY CAN BUY
TOOLS AT HOME DEPOT."*
*Barry*
On Sun, Jul 7, 2013 at 3:41 PM, Richard Girard wrote:
> Let's face it, there are ham handed people in this world who should not be
> allowed near fine machinery. The fellow who logged that he "cleaned" the
> carbs on the 912 belonging to my customer is one. He put the fixation screw
> holding the jet needle in so tight that the screw driver slot just stripped
> off its ears when I tried to get it out. Soaked it with PB Blaster for 36
> hours and no luck. Chucked the piston in my lathe, touched the top of the
> screw with a center drill and chucked up a left handed drill bit. Took
> longer to set up than it did for the drill to pull the screw out. As you
> can see by the picture the needle is quite literally jammed into the bottom
> of the screw. The carb piston, thankfully, is completely pristeen.
> Did I mention that I love left handed drill bits?
>
> Rick Girard
> --
> Zulu Delta
> Mk IIIC
> Thanks, Homer GBYM
>
> It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
> - Groucho Marx
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dynon EGT D180 Erratic |
| From: | "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com> |
10 degrees is 0.1%!! That's well below the accuracy of the Dynon
AD converter! Set your low pass filter to more agreesive filtering
and you won't see it bobble.
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404143#404143
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dynon EGT D180 Erratic |
| From: | "JohnF" <n29cx(at)ridgeviewtel.us> |
Rampil, thank you for the suggestion; now my problem is locate that filter in the
Dynon (I guess) ... will have to break out the user's manual...
JohnF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404150#404150
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dynon EGT D180 Erratic |
| From: | "JohnF" <n29cx(at)ridgeviewtel.us> |
Well, I don't find anything about a filter in the D180 install or user's manual.
I am not concerned about the numerical accuracy of the indication, but rather the
fact the indicated temperature is jumping up and down while the sensor on the
other side of the 912ULS is stable, perhaps moving up/down a degree or two
at as slow rate while the 'jumpy" one hops up and down continuously .. I could
just disregard it but I keep noticing it and thought to fix it,
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404152#404152
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dynon EGT D180 Erratic |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
Swap the probe with one from another cylinder and see if the problem
follows the probe. That way you know the problem is the probe.
Have you made sure you have good grounds for the Dynon.
Rick Girard
On Sun, Jul 7, 2013 at 2:27 PM, JohnF wrote:
>
> One EGT reads in about correct range (+/-) 10-degrees of the other probe,
> but it 'jumps up and down about 10 to 20 degrees.
>
> I am going to replace the probe's connectors that go to the D180 and if
> that doesn't do it I probably will change the probe, but hesitate to spend
> the money if it is not really necessary.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404130#404130
>
>
--
Zulu Delta
Mk IIIC
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: I Love Left handed drill bits |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Rick,
It wasn't the mechanics fault. These fixation screws have Loctite on them from
Bing and they can strip out if not heated. Once in a while I find one I can remove
without over torquing it, but most times I heat them with a heat gun or small
butane torch. Once heated they come right out.
What were you saying on the other post about Rotax engines, problems and owners?
It usually isn't the engine that has the issues, but not having the proper training
to maintain them or maintaining them on schedule. They are not Continental's
or Lycoming's and treating them as such will only cost owners and mechanics
grief and money.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404157#404157
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dynon EGT D180 Erratic |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Dynon considers anything within 15F the same temp. If the EGT, even if it fluctuates,
is 0-20 degrees within each other then it should not be an issue.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404160#404160
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: I Love Left handed drill bits |
| From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
Anyone who thinks that this connection needs thread locker clearly does not understand
that aluminum has a very high coefficient of friction. In use, there is
no external torque that would tend to loosen this connection. Applying thread
locker to this connection is unnecessary and a very bad idea.
--------
Thom Riddle
Buffalo, NY (9G0)
Don't worry about old age... it doesn't last very long.
- Anonymous
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404178#404178
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dynon EGT D180 Erratic |
| From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
Also, Rotax does not even specify EGT monitoring on the 912 series engines in their
installation manual. Even the Diamond Katana type certificated airplane with
912-F3 does not have an EGT gauge.
Without manual mixture control there is no real need for an EGT since the Bing
64s, when properly maintained, do a good job of maintaining safe and reasonably
appropriate mixtures at most density altitudes. Not as good as FI of course
which the 912-Si engine results have proven, but good enough for carburetors.
--------
Thom Riddle
Buffalo, NY (9G0)
Don't worry about old age... it doesn't last very long.
- Anonymous
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404179#404179
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jay Hyde" <jay(at)horriblehyde.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon EGT D180 Erratic |
The most important reason for having EGT's is so that you can watch the
trend of the temperatures over time; they are excellent indicators of
pending failure if you use them this way.
Jay
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Thom
Riddle
Sent: 08 July 2013 02:30 PM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: Dynon EGT D180 Erratic
-->
Also, Rotax does not even specify EGT monitoring on the 912 series engines
in their installation manual. Even the Diamond Katana type certificated
airplane with 912-F3 does not have an EGT gauge.
Without manual mixture control there is no real need for an EGT since the
Bing 64s, when properly maintained, do a good job of maintaining safe and
reasonably appropriate mixtures at most density altitudes. Not as good as FI
of course which the 912-Si engine results have proven, but good enough for
carburetors.
--------
Thom Riddle
Buffalo, NY (9G0)
Don't worry about old age... it doesn't last very long.
- Anonymous
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404179#404179
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dynon EGT D180 Erratic |
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
John:
I have seen some really crazy exhaust systems being used with the Rotax
engine... I recall one on a Diamond Moto-Glider that made a 180 Deg turn.
The point being is: Variance in EGT between planes of the same type and
between cylinders on the same engine is greatly affected by Probe Location.
Things like unequal distance from the cylinder head, sharp turns, even
simple turns in one stack that are not in the other stack and of course I
mentioned; peak and trough of wave formation. But, YES, I would start with
the simple checks first; connectors and as Rick said - Swap probes. EGT is
a diagnostic tool, whether you have manual control over your mixture or
not, it can show trends. If you are use to seeing 1300 F on a regular
basis and all of a sudden the temp starts to drop say 200 F that is an
indication of a richer (not rich) running system. If you are running dual
carbs and you see a difference in one set of cylinders - Your carbs could
be going out of sync. Even in a fuel injected engine, if a cylinder is
running extra cool or extra rich that is an indication of injector or
airflow issues.
The real issue with EGT & CHT or for that matter ANY instrumentation is
COCKPIT FIXSATION - Not LQQKing out the window.
*Barry*
On Sun, Jul 7, 2013 at 10:43 PM, Richard Girard wrote:
> Swap the probe with one from another cylinder and see if the problem
> follows the probe. That way you know the problem is the probe.
> Have you made sure you have good grounds for the Dynon.
>
> Rick Girard
>
>
> On Sun, Jul 7, 2013 at 2:27 PM, JohnF wrote:
>
>>
>> One EGT reads in about correct range (+/-) 10-degrees of the other probe,
>> but it 'jumps up and down about 10 to 20 degrees.
>>
>> I am going to replace the probe's connectors that go to the D180 and if
>> that doesn't do it I probably will change the probe, but hesitate to spend
>> the money if it is not really necessary.
>>
>> Any suggestions?
>>
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: I Love Left handed drill bits |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Thom,
I comes with a dry blue Loctite from Bing. Either from the factory or if ordered
separately.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404233#404233
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dynon EGT D180 Erratic |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Personally I like EGT's.
EGT's used properly can give some good info for performance, jetting and engine
issues. They tend to read fast and give some indication on what's going on with
the burn inside the cyl. CHT's on the other hand are slow and don't indicate
as much because they are water cooled. The correct distance for an EGT sensor
on a Rotax exhaust pipe is 100mm or 3.9" out from the head. You do need to be
able to interpret what gauges are telling you and sometimes need to cross reference
one gauge to another to see if what it is telling you is real or a sender
only problem.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404236#404236
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "namedroppers(at)juno.com" <namedroppers(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Engine starts to quit after airborne |
I own a Pipistrel Virus motorglider with a Rotax 912 UL. This is a high
wing aircraft like a Cessna. After installing a fuel pressure guage by p
lacing a T fitting between the fuel pump and the four way distribution b
lock and after changing the spark plugs the engine now sputters and want
s to quit after lifting off. Before I did this the engine ran fine so I
undid what I did. I put the original fuel line back with no T fitting, b
lew out all the fuel lines and took the carb fuel bowls off and cleaned
them out. The same fuel is in the tanks when it was running ok and I had
just taken a 40 minute trip so I doubt it's fuel contamination. I run t
he engine on the ground at full throttle with no problems. The only thin
g I didn't do was change the spark plugs back to the originals but I wou
ld think if that was the problem it wouldn't run ok on the ground. I'm t
hinking it might have something to do with the attitude of the aircraft
or maybe the ignition system is heating up ?????Any thoughts guys.Giovan
ni
____________________________________________________________
New Policy in Mississippi
2012-Drivers w/ no DUIs eligible for up to 50% off car insurance...
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/51db6468e022464680383st02vuc
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: I Love Left handed drill bits |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
Thom, As Roger noted the Locktite comes applied to the fixation screw in
dry form. Also, the use of Locktite 221 is specified for this part in the
912 Illustrated Parts Catalog.
Rick Girard
On Mon, Jul 8, 2013 at 7:19 AM, Thom Riddle wrote:
> >
>
> Anyone who thinks that this connection needs thread locker clearly does
> not understand that aluminum has a very high coefficient of friction. In
> use, there is no external torque that would tend to loosen this connection.
> Applying thread locker to this connection is unnecessary and a very bad
> idea.
>
> --------
> Thom Riddle
> Buffalo, NY (9G0)
>
>
> Don't worry about old age... it doesn't last very long.
> - Anonymous
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404178#404178
>
>
--
Zulu Delta
Mk IIIC
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "krazydoc33" <galaxyone(at)juno.com> |
I have a 912ULS in a RV-12, the plane has just been signed off by the DAR but I
have not yet flown it. The engine starts fine right away and has about 2 hours
of taxi time on the engine. I get 5050 rpm at wide open throttle and the airport
is at ~5000'. The weather here is in the 90+range shortly after 9:00 am.
The problem I am having, which has kept me on the ground, is the mag drop. It
is about 650 rpm on each ignition and they both run rough. They are close together
but that much of a rpm drop seems very unusual. The exhaust pipe is sooted
which suggests it is running rich. The plugs also are very black and cleaning
them has no effect. All the other temperatures look normal. I tried a five minute
run at full throttle and that had no effect either. Any ideas where to look
next will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Henry
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404353#404353
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Large mag drop |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Henry,
650 is way to high. The good thing is they are almost equal. What rpm are you doing
the mag drop at?
What is the plug gap? It should be between .023 and .027. Better to be the wider
gap for the summer months. Are you running an electric pump with the mechanical
all the time? Have you synced these carbs? Did you put a fuel
re-circulation line in during the build. The new pumps really need one. Where did
you mount the carb vent tubes? These carbs almost sound like they are flooding,
but we could use a little more info.
It is possible you have a wire connected wrong.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404355#404355
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Large mag drop |
| From: | "conrad" <conrad(at)conairsports.co.uk> |
Looks like you might have a couple of plug caps swapped.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404356#404356
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | hansjd <hansjd(at)online.no> |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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: I Love Left handed drill bits |
| From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
I am aware that Rotax puts the blue loctite on that screw. I am also aware that
they have changed their minds on many other things as their customer base's experience
increased over the years. As experience grew they have redesigned or
changed specs on many things over the years. One original design element in particular
that caused all kinds of grief which they eventually changed was the
internal Torx type fitting on the gearbox magnetic oil fitting.
My experience with aluminum threads, where no in-use external torque is applied
in the loosening direction, is that no thread locker is needed due to the high
coefficient of friction. Perhaps Rotax will one day realize that loctite is
not needed on this carb part. Until then, use it if you want.
I remove it from the carbs I disassemble and do not apply new loctite when re-installing.
In fact upon reinstallation I torque it only with thumb and one finger
because even without loctite it very easy to over torque this part and make
the left-handed drills or easy-outs a required part of future disassembly. Been
there once and that was enough.
--------
Thom Riddle
Buffalo, NY (9G0)
Don't worry about old age... it doesn't last very long.
- Anonymous
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404362#404362
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Large mag drop |
| From: | "krazydoc33" <galaxyone(at)juno.com> |
Hi Roger,
By a wire wrong I ASSume that you mean a plug wire? I will check that
but it is the same as it came from Van's. The mag check was done at 4000 rpm
both before the run at 5000+rpm and after that too. No change.
The plug gap is at 0.020", I will open them up to 0.028". There is an electric
pump just after the fuel tank and I have run with that on, usually about 5 psi
is shown on the fuel pressure gauge. There is a fuel return line to the tank.
The vent tubes come down to the drip tray. Every thing indicates flooding or a
very rich mixture. With a lycorasuras I would run it close to wide open and lean
it out very aggressively but can't or don't know how to do that with the Bings.
I have done a mechanical sync. but not yet done a pneumatic sync.
I ASSume that the two ignition systems, A & B, each control one set of plugs, upper
and lower although I have not yet found in the documentation which one is
the upper plugs and which is the lower plugs.
Do you make house calls? :)
Thanks
Henry, Los Lunas, NM
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404371#404371
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Large mag drop |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Henry,
The plug gap is way to small. The Rotax specs are .023 (cold weather and .027 hot
weather) Do not gap them wider. This will change the mag drop all by itself.
Then as Conrad suggest look at the plug wires. The wires are labeled. #1 cyl.
is front right, #3 is rear right, #2 is front left and #4 is rear left. Try
not running the electric pump. You may be flooding. You absolutely need to do
a pneumatic sync. All a mechanical sync does is get you in the ballpark for
idle and hopefully close for higher rpm runs, but it can be significantly off.
Do all of these things first before the next start.
The ignition system chart you are referring to is in the Heavy Maint. manual.
After you do these couple of things then try a new mag drop and let us know the
results.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404390#404390
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: I Love Left handed drill bits |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Thom,
The reason Loctite is applied here is that these are two different metals and this
area gets significant vibration and any loosening would cause a needle change
in the jet and possibly a aircraft incident before it was found. I'm sure
they have had their reasons over the last 22 years to apply this. It's a better
safe than sorry application. Too much Loctite here can be a problem getting
it out later. Just the tiniest drop is needed. If it still has some of the old
Loctite on the screw it will work just fine. Heating it is no big deal either
for removal. Like I said, I take a small butane torch and heat it for a few seconds
and they all come right out.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404391#404391
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: I Love Left handed drill bits |
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
Gaggle:
>From a Test Engineer viewpoint; Thom is quite accurate with aluminum
threads not requiring a liquid locking agent. There are a few questions
that would have to be asked though:
1 - What type of aluminum is the part made from?
2 - What temper is it brought to?
3 - Was the tempering done before or after the threads were cut?
4 - Were the threads cut or rolled?
5 - What type of thread is being used?
6 - What material is the part being threaded into?
And then a repeat of all the questions above about the mating threaded part:
7 - What type of aluminum is the part made from?
8 - What temper is it brought to?
9 - Was the tempering done before or after the threads were cut?
10 - Were the threads cut or molded <-- Since this is a internal thread.
11 - What type of thread is being used? <-- This should be the same as the
mating part - BUT - Sometimes one company makes part A and another makes
part B and little things like percentage of thread is different.
Now if both parts are aluminum and ESPECIALLY if they are not ANODIZED,
There is a very high possibility of galling and/or fretting.
Some methods of prevention are:
Shoulder Seat - To limit force/torque on threads - This is something Roatx
really should consider. Maybe in the next generation of engineering
changes.
Lock washer - I guess none was used in this situation.
Nylon Stop Plug
Teflon Tape - Not for this situation. Untrained users.
Teflon Paste - HMmmmm much better idea - But 99.9987% of the users tend to
OVER APPLY it and cause catastrophic problems.
Liquid Locking Compound - Well this would be BLUE Loctite but there is a
problem with this -- They advertize a holding strength of 8.5 Nm (~6.2
Ft/Lbs). Well this is WAY too much holding force for such a small thread
and material. So, again I hope Rotax makes some changes. AND when Loctite
did this testing and came up with the 8.5 Nm, they did NOT test it on
aluminum threads. Holding force is VERY argumentative. They TRY to be
scientific but in the long run it is a shot in the twilight.
Last point: It truly is a good idea to use SOMETHING on the threads. Not
really needed too much for holding but for thread protection. If aluminum
threads are not protected they will gall/frett and LOCK-UP! From an FAA
standpoint they and you need some reassurance that the thing will not
vibrate free in flight AND should be easy to remove for
inspection/repair/replacement. Just think there are companies that have
made entire fortunes on just doing that - Loctite!
*Barry*
On Wed, Jul 10, 2013 at 8:05 AM, Thom Riddle wrote:
> >
>
> I am aware that Rotax puts the blue loctite on that screw. I am also aware
> that they have changed their minds on many other things as their customer
> base's experience increased over the years. As experience grew they have
> redesigned or changed specs on many things over the years. One original
> design element in particular that caused all kinds of grief which they
> eventually changed was the internal Torx type fitting on the gearbox
> magnetic oil fitting.
>
> My experience with aluminum threads, where no in-use external torque is
> applied in the loosening direction, is that no thread locker is needed due
> to the high coefficient of friction. Perhaps Rotax will one day realize
> that loctite is not needed on this carb part. Until then, use it if you
> want.
>
> I remove it from the carbs I disassemble and do not apply new loctite when
> re-installing. In fact upon reinstallation I torque it only with thumb and
> one finger because even without loctite it very easy to over torque this
> part and make the left-handed drills or easy-outs a required part of future
> disassembly. Been there once and that was enough.
>
> --------
> Thom Riddle
> Buffalo, NY (9G0)
>
>
> Don't worry about old age... it doesn't last very long.
> - Anonymous
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: I Love Left handed drill bits |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
I may agree about aluminum, but from the Bing and Rotax guys it's a liability issue.
Adding a little heat as far as they are concerned is no big deal for peace
of mind.
Should be peace of mind for you now too.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404416#404416
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clive Richards" <s.clive.richards(at)homecall.co.uk> |
| Subject: | 912UL Will not start on UL91 |
Hi all
A fellow pilot has found his 912UL will not start on UL91
avgas now the temperature is high 21 to 29 C.
after checking every thing he eventually changed one
tank to 100LL and it starts ok, changing to the tank with UL91 it runs
very rough.
Our 0-200 runs on the UL91 from the same pump with no problem, we have
our own problem of high oil temperature.
Originally he used 100LL but UL91 became available in the
winter and he has used it until now but the weather has become hot.
Hopefully Roger will know if it is the carb needle that requires
adjustment.
Clive G CBDG 601HD 0 200 590 Hrs. Helping build a 701
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912UL Will not start on UL91 |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Clive,
The temps should have not made any difference between the two fuels. Something
else is going on. I would pull the carb tops off and check the needle positions.
The clips should be in the #3 slot. Third slot down from the top. If it is
in the #2 position it could cause rough running depending on elevation or altitude.
It would be a little lean. Those OAT's aren't an issue. That's 70F to 84F.
While your checking the carbs double check the bowls and make sure it has had
a carb sync. Make sure the plug gaps are at .023 - .027.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404585#404585
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Mag plug extraction |
| From: | "max8992" <mcointe(at)free.fr> |
Hi there all
during the 100's hour visit I tried to verify the mag plug as per the manual but
couldn't extract it: when unscrew it turns but not exits! can't screw it either,
turns fool. Probably over torqued during las t visit...
Then I deposed the gearbox to have a look and tried to push it from inside when
unscrewing. No success.
Any suggestion first to put it out and then to put a new one?
Max Cointe
mcointe(at)free.fr
F-PMLH Europa XS_TriGear
Kit #560-2003 912ULS/AirmasterAP332 450 hours
F-PLDJ DynAro MCR 4S
Kit #27-2002 912ULSFR/MTProp MTV7A 1550 heures
--------
Max8992
Europa XS #560 F-PMLH
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404606#404606
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Damien" <dgraham7(at)TWCNY.RR.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Mag plug extraction |
There is a video on Rotax-Owners.com that describes how to take out and
replace the mag plug with a new one. There is an extractor tool
that you can buy to help take it out.
Regards,
Damien
----- Original Message -----
From: "max8992" <mcointe(at)free.fr>
Sent: Saturday, July 13, 2013 1:52 PM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Mag plug extraction
>
> Hi there all
> during the 100's hour visit I tried to verify the mag plug as per the
> manual but couldn't extract it: when unscrew it turns but not exits! can't
> screw it either, turns fool. Probably over torqued during las t visit...
> Then I deposed the gearbox to have a look and tried to push it from inside
> when unscrewing. No success.
> Any suggestion first to put it out and then to put a new one?
> Max Cointe
> mcointe(at)free.fr
> F-PMLH Europa XS_TriGear
> Kit #560-2003 912ULS/AirmasterAP332 450 hours
>
> F-PLDJ Dyn?TAro MCR 4S
> Kit #27-2002 912ULSFR/MTProp MTV7A 1550 heures
>
> --------
> Max8992
> Europa XS #560 F-PMLH
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404606#404606
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph K. Hallett III" <n100rh(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 8 Msgs - 07/10/13 |
A quick question for you all. I have a 912S in a Rans S7. Out of the
blue the oil pressure gauge is rapidly swinging from high to low
followed by a pause at the correct oil pressure. Then more of the same.
This only happens after flying for 20 min or so in 70F weather. I
figured it must be the sender unit which is attached to the block near
the oil pump. I got the same readings on the next flight. Reducing the
engine to idle causes the gauge to settle down.
However, here's where it gets interesting, I noticed that all the
gauges, tach, oil temp, oil pressure and voltage are stable at the
beginning of the flight but when the oil pressure starts to swing wildly
the other gauges too have started to vibrate, not to the extent of the
oil pressure.
I'm starting to become suspicious that the voltage regulator is getting
ready to crap out. Thoughts?
Ralph
Reno, NV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel distribution banjo fittings |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
Okay, the airplane I am working on was built without a fuel return line. I
am trying to figure out the correct banjo fittings for getting fuel from
the pump, a line to each carburetor, and a return line. The IPS is clear as
mud.
I want to use a 851327 clamp block with a 840518 allen screw and a 641733
slotted head screw and a 230150 gasket ring
Can I use two double hose nipples # 956602, one for the line from the fuel
pump and the return line with a 963820 pilot jet in it, and one for going
to each carb? Do I need two banjo bolts or one? (p/n please)
What is in the 941785 banjo bolt assy? All of the above minus the clamp
block and its hardware?
Much thanks to anyone who can lead me through this morass.
Rick Girard
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Starting carburetors |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
The airplane has ~500 hours on it and the 912 ULS. Except for one logbook
entry for carburetor cleaning it appears that this was the first carb
rebuild. The needle valves in both carbs failed and both would overflow
within three to four blade cold cranking. The starting carburetors, which
had worked flawlessly seemed to have failed, the engine was hard starting.
I rebuilt one carb at a time to always have a complete carb for reference
and to avoid mixing parts. I started with the right carb (overflow tube
pointed outboard. When I pulled the starting carb housing I found the
inboard end of the shaft was stamped "L". Staining on the disk seemed to
indicate that the slot was properly positioned so that when it was rotated
the slot was moved over the port connected to the float bowl. The rebuild
was a complete overhaul, all gaskets, o rings, diaphragms and floats were
replaced, as was the needle and needle jet. I located the dot on the
outboard end of the starting carb shaft so that it pointed toward the cable
and lightly tightened the four screws of the housing.
Disassembly of the left carb (overflow tube pointing inboard) revealed that
the starting carburetor shaft was stamped on the inboard end "R". Again,
staining on the disk showed that the slot uncovered the port from the float
bowl when it was rotated.
At this point I was beginning to doubt my sanity. I considered that German
for Right starts with and "L". It doesn't. I thought perhaps Rotax directed
right and left as seen with from the prop end of the engine. From what I
could find in the Installation Manual, right and left are relative to the
pilot looking forward with the engine mounted in a tractor installation.
Since the history of the engine seemed to show that the starting carbs were
working until recently, but had stopped working (I should add that there
was no sign that the starting carbs had been opened before I did) I decided
to put the disk assembly with the shaft stamped "R" in the right carb and
put the "L" disk in the left carb.
Because the airplane's owner wants to overhaul the fuel system to include a
fuel return line to control fuel pressure, we did not attempt to start the
engine when I re-installed the carbs today.
The possibilities seem to be;
A. Both starting carbs were miss assembled with a right shaft mated to a
left disk and vice versa.
B. I have misinterpreted the Installation manual and right and left
orientation are relative to the prop end of the engine.
C. These carbs were originally installed in the Twilight Zone.
Comments? Advise?
Rick Girard
--
Zulu Delta
Mk IIIC
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Starting carburetors |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Rick,
The chokes were marked and on the correct carb. If you switched them then switch
them back or they won't work. The center punch dot on the end of the choke shaft
should be facing the tube that looks like it is molded in the choke assembly.
Tighten the 4 screws well so there I are no leaks and they are supposed to
have blue Loctite. (Medium strength)
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405061#405061
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 8 Msgs - 07/10/13 |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Ralph,
I'm with Rick. Sounds like a poor ground. It could be a loose ground or a corroded
one.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405063#405063
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel distribution banjo fittings |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Parts needed.
>From IP manual dated Sept. 2011 rev 2 page 21-2
The number is the schematic number in the picture that corresponds to the actual
part number for ordering. The fuel return line comes off #7.
# 5 : 840518
6 : 950143. Need 5. Copper gaskets
7: 956312 banjo with restrictor for the recirculation line
8: 851327
9: 941785
11: 230150
12: 641733 fuel pressure line to gauge
13: 940872. Fuel in from pump and out to carbs (double banjo bolt)
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405065#405065
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Off topic - Roger Lee |
| From: | "pestar" <peter(at)reivernet.com> |
Roger
Are you going to Oshkosh. I am and if you are would like to give you a call.
Cheers Peter
--------
Peter Armstrong
Auckland, New Zealand
DynAero MCR-4S (Do not shoot me :) ).
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405093#405093
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Off topic - Roger Lee |
pestar a crit :
>
> Roger
>
> Are you going to Oshkosh. I am and
You lucky guy !
Best regards,
--
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Off topic - Roger Lee |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Peter,
Sorry not heading to Oshkosh. You're still welcome to give me a call. In Utah for
the next week.
520-349-7056
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405096#405096
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Payne" <craig(at)craigandjean.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Off topic - Roger Lee |
> In Utah for the next week. 520-349-7056
What, you do house calls? In Utah? I'm in Park City, UT. While I don't have
any immediate needs I'm sure I will ;-)
-- Craig
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Off topic - Roger Lee |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
I'm on vacation in Marysvale, UT. Will be here another week quad riding the mountains.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405141#405141
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph K. Hallett III" <n100rh(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 8 Msgs - 07/22/13 |
Thanks all, I will check all the ground straps.
Ralph
On 7/23/2013 12:00 AM, RotaxEngines-List Digest Server wrote:
> *
>
> =================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> =================================================
>
> Today's complete RotaxEngines-List Digest can also be found in either of the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
> of the RotaxEngines-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 13-07-22&Archive=RotaxEngines
>
> Text Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 13-07-22&Archive=RotaxEngines
>
>
> ===============================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ===============================================
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> RotaxEngines-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Mon 07/22/13: 8
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 06:24 AM - Re: Starting carburetors (Roger Lee)
> 2. 06:25 AM - Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 8 Msgs - 07/10/13 (Roger Lee)
> 3. 06:49 AM - Re: Fuel distribution banjo fittings (Roger Lee)
> 4. 01:35 PM - Off topic - Roger Lee (pestar)
> 5. 01:38 PM - Re: Off topic - Roger Lee (Gilles Thesee)
> 6. 01:46 PM - Re: Off topic - Roger Lee (Roger Lee)
> 7. 02:28 PM - Re: Re: Off topic - Roger Lee (Craig Payne)
> 8. 09:23 PM - Re: Off topic - Roger Lee (Roger Lee)
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: Starting carburetors
> From: "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com>
>
>
> Hi Rick,
>
> The chokes were marked and on the correct carb. If you switched them then switch
> them back or they won't work. The center punch dot on the end of the choke shaft
> should be facing the tube that looks like it is molded in the choke assembly.
> Tighten the 4 screws well so there I are no leaks and they are supposed to
> have blue Loctite. (Medium strength)
>
> --------
> Roger Lee
> Tucson, Az.
> Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
> Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
> Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
> Cell 520-349-7056
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405061#405061
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 8 Msgs - 07/10/13
> From: "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com>
>
>
> Hi Ralph,
>
> I'm with Rick. Sounds like a poor ground. It could be a loose ground or a corroded
> one.
>
> --------
> Roger Lee
> Tucson, Az.
> Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
> Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
> Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
> Cell 520-349-7056
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405063#405063
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: Fuel distribution banjo fittings
> From: "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com>
>
>
> Parts needed.
> >From IP manual dated Sept. 2011 rev 2 page 21-2
> The number is the schematic number in the picture that corresponds to the actual
> part number for ordering. The fuel return line comes off #7.
>
> # 5 : 840518
> 6 : 950143. Need 5. Copper gaskets
> 7: 956312 banjo with restrictor for the recirculation line
> 8: 851327
> 9: 941785
> 11: 230150
> 12: 641733 fuel pressure line to gauge
> 13: 940872. Fuel in from pump and out to carbs (double banjo bolt)
>
> --------
> Roger Lee
> Tucson, Az.
> Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
> Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
> Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
> Cell 520-349-7056
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405065#405065
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Off topic - Roger Lee
> From: "pestar" <peter(at)reivernet.com>
>
>
> Roger
>
> Are you going to Oshkosh. I am and if you are would like to give you a call.
>
> Cheers Peter
>
> --------
> Peter Armstrong
> Auckland, New Zealand
> DynAero MCR-4S (Do not shoot me :) ).
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405093#405093
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________
>
>
> From: Gilles Thesee <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
> Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Off topic - Roger Lee
>
>
> pestar a crit :
>> Roger
>>
>> Are you going to Oshkosh. I am and
> You lucky guy !
>
> Best regards,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Long <dlong1957(at)yahoo.com> |
I am UNAVAILABLE. I'll respond after the sixth of August.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TURBO T <turbot(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Bing 54 starting problems |
Have a new Rotax 532 with new Bing 54 carbs.
Engine will not start without injecting a few CC's of gas through a carb.
Carbs have manual enrichers (chokes), but they do not seem to help starting.
After injecting fuel into crankcase it fires on first pull.
When running it idles fine ( so don't think idle jets are plugged )
When running , activating the chokes bog the engine & lower EGT's quickly.
Ideas ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rotax engine parts |
| From: | "undoctor" <undoctor(at)ptd.net> |
I'm looking for recommendations for getting parts for a 447 Rotax.
Thanks,
Dave Kulp
Bethlehem, PA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405784#405784
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rotax 912ULS Stumble below 4000 RPM on final ONLY** |
| From: | "SIDESLIP" <Chad2007(at)rogers.com> |
Hello all. I've got a Zodiac 601 XL-B with a Rotax 912ULS and a warp drive three
blade.
It's set at 15 degrees pitch, giving me 5500 RPM CLIMB OUT, 5200-5300 static. This
engine runs flawlessly on the ground. It has only 175 hours on the engine.
New plugs, carbs synced, oil changed. Fresh fuel lines. All parameters are well
within margins. Climbs and runs like a top, and is happy at 5500 cruise. The
airplane does 100-110kts straight and level at 5500 rpm. Fuel burn is approximate
at 3.5-4.1 gal/hr.
I fly my pattern at 90kts, with 70-80 on final.
When I pull the power back gradually to slow it for flaps and turning base, anything
under 4k and it shakes and thuds. Maybe that speed unloads the prop? I don't
know. Like I said, runs like a top on the ground. It's only running like
a bag of hammers in the circuit pulling back under 4k. It is a slipper clutched
plane.
Any help is appreciated!
Thanks in advance!
Chad
--------
C-GYXQ. 912ULS. 601XL-B
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405795#405795
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clive Richards" <s.clive.richards(at)homecall.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: 912UL Will not start on UL91 |
Thanks Roger
I passed the information on. The owner
arranged for a Rotax maintenance engineer to come to the airfield & he found
the starter sprag clutch causing the starting problems and that the soft
start had not been connected. No explanation was found as to why it ran
rough on the UL91 but runs fine on 100LL & UL91 now so will run on the UL91
to protect the engine from the lead.
Clive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 13, 2013 5:37 AM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: 912UL Will not start on UL91
>
> Hi Clive,
>
> The temps should have not made any difference between the two fuels.
> Something else is going on. I would pull the carb tops off and check the
> needle positions. The clips should be in the #3 slot. Third slot down from
> the top. If it is in the #2 position it could cause rough running
> depending on elevation or altitude. It would be a little lean. Those OAT's
> aren't an issue. That's 70F to 84F. While your checking the carbs double
> check the bowls and make sure it has had a carb sync. Make sure the plug
> gaps are at .023 - .027.
>
> --------
> Roger Lee
> Tucson, Az.
> Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
> Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
> Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
> Cell 520-349-7056
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404585#404585
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912ULS Stumble below 4000 RPM on final ONLY** |
Chad,
Sounds to me like you have one of your throttle cables hanging up. By
that I mean the internal cable on the outer shroud. I had this happen on my
Kitfox during approach throttle reduction. Lubing the cables helped for awhile
but then I finally replaced them and that solved my problem.
Dick Maddux
912UL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912ULS Stumble below 4000 RPM on final ONLY** |
| From: | "SIDESLIP" <Chad2007(at)rogers.com> |
Dick,
Thanks for the reply. Makes sense but at the same time doesn't ? It doesn't do
it on the ground. Maybe because I'm not going from very high throttle down to
4000 on the ground? Good point though, I'll have to check.
Chad
--------
C-GYXQ. 912ULS. 601XL-B
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405811#405811
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pjeffers <pjeffers(at)talktalk.net> |
| Subject: | Rotax 912ULS Stumble below 4000 RPM on final ONLY** |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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Elling <jelling(at)newmexico.com> |
| Subject: | Trouble starting a 912 ULS |
Folks,
I've gradually had trouble starting a ULS with the 912 Rotax high torque
starter. First it did not like starting when it was cold. Then the
sprag seemed to come disengaged without turning the engine over enough
to start. Finally I started getting a gear-grinding noise. Then
eventually the gears never engaged; just a grinding noise.
I checked the starter alignment between the two ears for the bolts.
Perhaps a 0.010" difference between the gaps of the two ears and no way
to adjust that I could see since the ears of the starter flange are
threaded as are the bolt holes on the engine.
I removed the Rotax starter and found the gear surface was a little
rough as was the mating gear teeth inside the engine. Probably from the
grinding... I replaced the starter with a Skytec, aligned as best I
could to exactly the same position as the Rotax starter (off about
0.010" between the top and bottom ears of the starter flange and the
engine surface). The Skytec starter does exactly the same thing -
grinds the gears without really engaging.
Anyone have any ideas? Anything I should check before I start taking
apart the engine to get to the starter gears and clutch?
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Elling <jelling(at)newmexico.com> |
| Subject: | Trouble starting a 912 ULS |
Folks,
One more data point on the trouble starting: It is not the battery
current. I've connected a truck battery in parallel with the plane's
battery (so the ignition is switching more amps) and not solved the problem.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 914 Alternator Options |
| From: | "N6ZY" <jffisher(at)gmail.com> |
I am building a Europa with a Rotax 914 engine. It has become clear to me that
my electrical power needs are unlikely to be met from the internal alternator.
The alternatives are the Rotax belt driven alternator, or the B&C SD20 alternator
driven off the vacuum pad. The belt driven alternator goes where I would
really like my air intake hoses to go, so the SD20 looks like an attractive
option. However when I look at my vacuum pad, it has a blanking plate, so I assume
that I would have to install the vacuum drive gear shaft. Is this correct
and can anyone advise me as to how difficult this is? Is it something that
I can do myself or, as it seems to require opening the gearbox, is this a Rotax
service center job? Thanks.
Jerry Fisher
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405824#405824
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 914 Alternator Options |
N6ZY a crit :
>
> I am building a Europa with a Rotax 914 engine. It has become clear to me that
my electrical power needs are unlikely to be met from the internal alternator.
The alternatives are the Rotax belt driven alternator, or the B&C SD20 alternator
driven off the vacuum pad. The belt driven alternator goes where I would
really like my air intake hoses to go, so the SD20 looks like an attractive
option. However when I look at my vacuum pad, it has a blanking plate, so I
assume that I would have to install the vacuum drive gear shaft. Is this correct
and can anyone advise me as to how difficult this is? Is it something that
I can do myself or, as it seems to require opening the gearbox, is this a Rotax
service center job? Thanks.
>
>
Jerry,
Have you considered this option ?
http://contrails.free.fr/elec_second_alternateur.php
Best regards,
--
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jan de Jong <jan_de_jong(at)casema.nl> |
| Subject: | Re: 914 Alternator Options |
And there is this:
http://www.flygas.info/en/kit-double-alternator-for-rotax.html
Better as a 10A backup than additional power it seems to me.
Jan de Jong
On 8/2/2013 8:09 PM, Gilles Thesee wrote:
> <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
>
> N6ZY a crit :
>>
>> I am building a Europa with a Rotax 914 engine. It has become clear
>> to me that my electrical power needs are unlikely to be met from the
>> internal alternator. The alternatives are the Rotax belt driven
>> alternator, or the B&C SD20 alternator driven off the vacuum pad. The
>> belt driven alternator goes where I would really like my air intake
>> hoses to go, so the SD20 looks like an attractive option. However
>> when I look at my vacuum pad, it has a blanking plate, so I assume
>> that I would have to install the vacuum drive gear shaft. Is this
>> correct and can anyone advise me as to how difficult this is? Is it
>> something that I can do myself or, as it seems to require opening the
>> gearbox, is this a Rotax service center job? Thanks.
>>
>
> Jerry,
>
> Have you considered this option ?
>
> http://contrails.free.fr/elec_second_alternateur.php
>
> Best regards,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Trouble starting a 912 ULS |
Hi! John,
Where is your battery situated ? How far from the starter ? I had untold
problems with the Jabiru 3300 six cylinder until I put two Odessey 13Ah
batteries in parallel within 18" of the starter and used welding cables for
the leads.
Bingo not so much as a problem since.
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG Europa now with 914 Rotax.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Elling
Sent: 02 August 2013 18:08
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Trouble starting a 912 ULS
-->
Folks,
One more data point on the trouble starting: It is not the battery current.
I've connected a truck battery in parallel with the plane's battery (so the
ignition is switching more amps) and not solved the problem.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912ULS Stumble below 4000 RPM on final ONLY** |
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
Chad:
Three things come to mind:
1 - You have a prop/engine balance issue and it shows up at a a particular
RPM range.
2 - You have a gear train issue - Someone else can comment on this.
3 - You have a control surface rigging/flutter issue. <-- This is low on
my guess factor list.
*Barry*
On Thu, Aug 1, 2013 at 9:35 PM, SIDESLIP wrote:
>
> Hello all. I've got a Zodiac 601 XL-B with a Rotax 912ULS and a warp drive
> three blade.
>
> It's set at 15 degrees pitch, giving me 5500 RPM CLIMB OUT, 5200-5300
> static. This engine runs flawlessly on the ground. It has only 175 hours on
> the engine. New plugs, carbs synced, oil changed. Fresh fuel lines. All
> parameters are well within margins. Climbs and runs like a top, and is
> happy at 5500 cruise. The airplane does 100-110kts straight and level at
> 5500 rpm. Fuel burn is approximate at 3.5-4.1 gal/hr.
>
> I fly my pattern at 90kts, with 70-80 on final.
>
> When I pull the power back gradually to slow it for flaps and turning
> base, anything under 4k and it shakes and thuds. Maybe that speed unloads
> the prop? I don't know. Like I said, runs like a top on the ground. It's
> only running like a bag of hammers in the circuit pulling back under 4k. It
> is a slipper clutched plane.
>
> Any help is appreciated!
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Chad
>
> --------
> C-GYXQ. 912ULS. 601XL-B
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405795#405795
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Trouble starting a 912 ULS |
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
John:
1 - What does the gear engagement points look like? If the gears are too
new to show ware take some blue Dykem and coat the ring gear teeth and the
starter gear teeth. Then try starting. You will have wear marks showing
the gear contact - If they are not straight and even from face to face you
have an alignment issue.
2 - If the gears are not engaging - Could the mounting system be totally
incorrect? Am I to assume at one point and for a long time there were NO
starting issues? If so... What changed?
3 - Any hard landings?
*Barry*
On Fri, Aug 2, 2013 at 12:00 PM, John Elling wrote:
> jelling(at)newmexico.com>
>
> Folks,
>
> I've gradually had trouble starting a ULS with the 912 Rotax high torque
> starter. First it did not like starting when it was cold. Then the sprag
> seemed to come disengaged without turning the engine over enough to start.
> Finally I started getting a gear-grinding noise. Then eventually the
> gears never engaged; just a grinding noise.
>
> I checked the starter alignment between the two ears for the bolts.
> Perhaps a 0.010" difference between the gaps of the two ears and no way to
> adjust that I could see since the ears of the starter flange are threaded
> as are the bolt holes on the engine.
>
> I removed the Rotax starter and found the gear surface was a little rough
> as was the mating gear teeth inside the engine. Probably from the
> grinding... I replaced the starter with a Skytec, aligned as best I could
> to exactly the same position as the Rotax starter (off about 0.010" between
> the top and bottom ears of the starter flange and the engine surface). The
> Skytec starter does exactly the same thing - grinds the gears without
> really engaging.
>
> Anyone have any ideas? Anything I should check before I start taking
> apart the engine to get to the starter gears and clutch?
>
> John
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912ULS Stumble below 4000 RPM on final ONLY** |
| From: | "SIDESLIP" <Chad2007(at)rogers.com> |
Brand new prop. Brand new hub. Brand new extension. Smooth as silk at full throttle.
When I mean runs rough below 4000, I mean its only firing on half the cylinders.
It's THAT sputtery. Although yesterday I flew it and brought the power
back REALLY slowly, and it didn't seem to do it hardly all the way to idle.
I let it idle, as I lost altitude, then smoothly smashed it to the firewall. ZERO
hesitation and took me from 50kts DIRECTLY to 100kts! Stuffed me in the seat.
I was pleasantly shocked. The slipper was checked by a Rotax tech only 20
hours ago. It was good.
The throttle cable thing sounds legit to me....
--------
C-GYXQ. 912ULS. 601XL-B
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405847#405847
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912ULS Stumble below 4000 RPM on final |
ONLY**
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
It is difficult to play doctor over the internet. You have to be a bit
more accurate in your description and what you have already checked.
"Smoothly Smashed" is an oxymoron. Either you smoothly advance the
throttle or you smashed the throttle. You say "I mean its only firing on
half the cylinders. It's THAT sputtery."
What jumps into mind is:
Condition of Spark Plugs
Condition of Spark Plug Wires
Mag output
Fuel Pump - Fuel Flow
Have you checked these issues? And YES, you can have a good spark and
running condition at High RPM and lousy at low.
*Barry*
On Sat, Aug 3, 2013 at 6:48 AM, SIDESLIP wrote:
>
> Brand new prop. Brand new hub. Brand new extension. Smooth as silk at full
> throttle. When I mean runs rough below 4000, I mean its only firing on half
> the cylinders. It's THAT sputtery. Although yesterday I flew it and brought
> the power back REALLY slowly, and it didn't seem to do it hardly all the
> way to idle. I let it idle, as I lost altitude, then smoothly smashed it to
> the firewall. ZERO hesitation and took me from 50kts DIRECTLY to 100kts!
> Stuffed me in the seat. I was pleasantly shocked. The slipper was checked
> by a Rotax tech only 20 hours ago. It was good.
>
> The throttle cable thing sounds legit to me....
>
> --------
> C-GYXQ. 912ULS. 601XL-B
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405847#405847
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 914 Alternator Options |
| From: | "ploucandco" <jacques(at)platisource.com> |
Jerry, to answer your specific question about opening the ROTAX gearbox to install
an alternator on the vacuum pad, I consider it to be the work of a ROTAX specilised
mechanic. Nothing really complex, but this is not really easy to open
the gearbox if you don't have the right tools and don't know how to do (have
followed the ROTAX maintenance course).
Concerning adding an extra alternator, I have myself a 914 powered Europa. I added
an alternator on the crankshaft based on Jim Butcher informations (see the
link from Gilles). That works very well.
In fact, you have the following options:
- extra alternator of ROTAX is NOK as doesn't fit under the Europa cowling.
- 20A B&C on the is a good option but adds weight and you need to open the gearbox.
The added weight is fully in the front, that just add on top of your airmaster
(I would expect that you use a good constant speed prop with a 914). Also
20A extra could be limited if you have a 2 axis AP, lights, a decent panel and
a pitot heater...
- 40/60A B&C on the crankshaft is the way to go if you are consuming much power
and are not willing to be dependable on the ROTAX/DUCATI. regulator. It is a
bit heavy but works very well. Well, if you have your engine already installed,
this is not really easy to install the whole setup
- the flygas solution that Jan mentioned was also on my short list but I removed
it based on cost (around 1000EUR) and the low output power 10-14A.
- ROTAX 912is second alternator on the crankshaft. This is a solution similar to the one of flygas but coming directly from ROTAX. The output is about 30A from 2000RPM. Don't know about price (likely not cheap, but ROTAX quality), but that would be my prefered solution if I had to do it again today. You can find more infos in the 912is illustrated part catalog: http://www.flyrotax.com/portaldata/5/dokus/d05447.pdf and the 912is installation manual http://www.flyrotax.com/portaldata/5/dokus/d05455.pdf
Hope this helps, Jacques.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405867#405867
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 914 Alternator Options |
| From: | "ploucandco" <jacques(at)platisource.com> |
Well, I just reviewed the 912is part catalog and I found out that you need to replace
the whole original generator setup of the 914 with a new one from the 912is
to get 2 generators and 2 regulators. As this is also where you have the
pick-up coils, I would think that it is way more difficult than what I first thought.
So it was an interesting but not really feasible as it seems.
Jacques.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405870#405870
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jan de Jong <jan_de_jong(at)casema.nl> |
| Subject: | Re: 914 Alternator Options |
Hi Jacques.
The 912iS alternator is oil cooled and needs the 912iS engine block, so
that option seems definitely out.
Jan de Jong
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Trouble starting a 912 ULS |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
It sounds like you may have lost your sprag clutch that engages the engine with
the starter then releases as soon as the engine speeds past the starter rpm.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405877#405877
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912UL Will not start on UL91 |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
91 oct or 100LL should have had no affect on starting alone. Something else had
to be involved and masking the issue.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405878#405878
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912ULS Stumble below 4000 RPM on final ONLY** |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Carb sync, I hope mag drop is fairly equal and gearbox checked to see if it needed
re-shimming? Even with only 175 hrs. if a plane has been around years things
like the Bellville washers in the gearbox get crushed and need to be re-shimmed
or replaced.
I could easily be throttle cables not moving perfectly in sync as you throttle
up and down, especially down. Going up should be smooth.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=405879#405879
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rotax 912 UL alternator drop-out |
| From: | Paul Kuntz <paul.r.kuntz(at)gmail.com> |
I have a homebuilt Pipistrel Sinus with a Rotax 912 UL that I flew to
Oshkosh and back last week. The panel has a dual Dynon Skyview display with
two-axis autopilot, plus radio and transponder. The total electrical load
with everything running is 7 to 8 amps. Occasionally it can go to 10 amps
if I'm charging cell phone and iPad en route. I'm pretty confident that I
have the electrical system wired so that the ammeter is measuring the total
electrical load.
The alternator dropped out once on the outbound trip, but came back after
removing the iPad charging load. The symptom was a voltage drop from 13.8
volts to 12.5 volts. On preflight the voltage may read that high for a
minute or so on a freshly-charged battery, but it quickly drops to 12.2 or
12.1 volts. In flight, the voltage would drop to 12.5 volts and stay there
for several minutes. I would think that if the alternator had failed, I'd
see the voltage drop to the same 12.1 volts that I see on preflight, and
keep dropping slowly. I can't see why it would drop to 12.5 volts and stay
there, unless the voltage regulator is failing in a way that I'm not
familiar with.
The alternator dropped out (same symptoms) a few times on the trip back,
but by reducing the load to 3 amps (one Skyview display, radio and
transponder), it stayed on line except for awhile when it seemed that the
mid-day sun shining on the dashboard was adding extra heat behind the
panel. That time we brought it back by directing cool air from a fresh air
vent forward toward the spot where the voltage regulator is mounted inside
the cabin on the back side of the firewall.
So the problem seems to be heat-related. Does this make sense? The Rotax
alternator is supposed to be rated for 18 amps, and able to handle a steady
load of 14 amps easily. Does the Ducati regulator have a thermal
self-protect cutout? Do I perhaps have a regulator that is ready to fail
completely, or should I just put an avionics cooling fan behind the panel
to get the air moving?Any other ideas?
Regards,
Paul Kuntz
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 UL alternator drop-out |
| From: | Damien Graham <dgraham7(at)TWCNY.RR.COM> |
Hey, read this.
Regards,
Damien
Sent from my iPad
On Aug 9, 2013, at 12:42 AM, Paul Kuntz wrote:
> I have a homebuilt Pipistrel Sinus with a Rotax 912 UL that I flew to Oshk
osh and back last week. The panel has a dual Dynon Skyview display with two-
axis autopilot, plus radio and transponder. The total electrical load with e
verything running is 7 to 8 amps. Occasionally it can go to 10 amps if I'm c
harging cell phone and iPad en route. I'm pretty confident that I have the e
lectrical system wired so that the ammeter is measuring the total electrical
load.
>
> The alternator dropped out once on the outbound trip, but came back after r
emoving the iPad charging load. The symptom was a voltage drop from 13.8 vo
lts to 12.5 volts. On preflight the voltage may read that high for a minute
or so on a freshly-charged battery, but it quickly drops to 12.2 or 12.1 vo
lts. In flight, the voltage would drop to 12.5 volts and stay there for sev
eral minutes. I would think that if the alternator had failed, I'd see the v
oltage drop to the same 12.1 volts that I see on preflight, and keep droppin
g slowly. I can't see why it would drop to 12.5 volts and stay there, unles
s the voltage regulator is failing in a way that I'm not familiar with.
>
> The alternator dropped out (same symptoms) a few times on the trip back, b
ut by reducing the load to 3 amps (one Skyview display, radio and transponde
r), it stayed on line except for awhile when it seemed that the mid-day sun s
hining on the dashboard was adding extra heat behind the panel. That time w
e brought it back by directing cool air from a fresh air vent forward toward
the spot where the voltage regulator is mounted inside the cabin on the bac
k side of the firewall.
>
> So the problem seems to be heat-related. Does this make sense? The Rotax
alternator is supposed to be rated for 18 amps, and able to handle a steady
load of 14 amps easily. Does the Ducati regulator have a thermal self-prot
ect cutout? Do I perhaps have a regulator that is ready to fail completely,
or should I just put an avionics cooling fan behind the panel to get the ai
r moving?Any other ideas?
>
> Regards,
> Paul Kuntz
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 UL alternator drop-out |
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
Hi Paul:
Sounds like you have a gorgeous plane.
For a standard and 99.976% of the different types of batteries to charge
you MUST keep the charge voltage between 13.8 to 14.2 VDC. Over 14.2 you
start to overheat the battery. Under 13.8 the voltage is not there to
remove the oxides for the battery plates.
One thing you mentioned perked my ears up - Dual axis autopilot... Now,
that is probably the highest single current draw in your plane. Were you
in A/P? Did you hit and air bumps? When an A/P has to recover from an air
pump the instantaneous current draw goes up sharply. The power is or
should be drawn from the battery followed by the replenishment by the
charging system. Now, from my reading Rotax has the worst charging system
next to Banlon sock rubbing on a wool carpet. But, I would check things
such as you mentioned - COOLING - It may be easier to install a small air
scoop with a hose or fans (caution- fans have their own current draw) to
blow air directly onto the ACU. This is done in quite a few planes where
forced air is blown directly onto the radio stack. The other thing I would
check is wire gauge size. First off it should be 'Teflon' wire and it is
always better to go UP in size. IF the alternator output is rated at 18
Amps the wire size should be no smaller than a 10 AWG and I would use 8
AWG. This is one case where bigger is better. And weight for such a short
run is not an issue. That takes care of the charging requirements. You
will have to address the wire sizes for the other electronic equipment.
Keep in mind Teflon wires allow you to use smaller gauge sizes. But,
HEAT, forces you to use larger gauge sizes.
>From my Rotax readings - I would say Rotax is not supplying the advertized
18 Amps and it is not in a smooth DC waveform output.
Power Reduction Sequence:
Least needed First -
Cell Phone ;-)
iPad ;-)
LIGHTS
A/P
Second Comm Radio
Second Nav/GPS
The only reasion I mention this is because an IPad under charge would be
only about 1 Amp for a dead battery. A cell phone under charge - 0.1 Amp
(100 mA). The other items sure can have high draw.
Another thought - How warm/hot is the firewall? IF the firewall is
warm/hot or if there is dead air under the dash, you may benefit by placing
the ACU on stanchions or placing it on a heat sink. A TRICK that I did on
my plane: I covered the glareshield with black speaker carpet. This
created a heat shield for radio stack by creating a low heat
transfer barrier, aluminum and thin leatherette passes the sun's rays/heat
very easily. It also added some class to the plane.
Good luck,
*Barry*
On Fri, Aug 9, 2013 at 12:42 AM, Paul Kuntz wrote:
> I have a homebuilt Pipistrel Sinus with a Rotax 912 UL that I flew to
> Oshkosh and back last week. The panel has a dual Dynon Skyview display with
> two-axis autopilot, plus radio and transponder. The total electrical load
> with everything running is 7 to 8 amps. Occasionally it can go to 10 amps
> if I'm charging cell phone and iPad en route. I'm pretty confident that I
> have the electrical system wired so that the ammeter is measuring the total
> electrical load.
>
> The alternator dropped out once on the outbound trip, but came back after
> removing the iPad charging load. The symptom was a voltage drop from 13.8
> volts to 12.5 volts. On preflight the voltage may read that high for a
> minute or so on a freshly-charged battery, but it quickly drops to 12.2 or
> 12.1 volts. In flight, the voltage would drop to 12.5 volts and stay there
> for several minutes. I would think that if the alternator had failed, I'd
> see the voltage drop to the same 12.1 volts that I see on preflight, and
> keep dropping slowly. I can't see why it would drop to 12.5 volts and stay
> there, unless the voltage regulator is failing in a way that I'm not
> familiar with.
>
> The alternator dropped out (same symptoms) a few times on the trip back,
> but by reducing the load to 3 amps (one Skyview display, radio and
> transponder), it stayed on line except for awhile when it seemed that the
> mid-day sun shining on the dashboard was adding extra heat behind the
> panel. That time we brought it back by directing cool air from a fresh air
> vent forward toward the spot where the voltage regulator is mounted inside
> the cabin on the back side of the firewall.
>
> So the problem seems to be heat-related. Does this make sense? The Rotax
> alternator is supposed to be rated for 18 amps, and able to handle a steady
> load of 14 amps easily. Does the Ducati regulator have a thermal
> self-protect cutout? Do I perhaps have a regulator that is ready to fail
> completely, or should I just put an avionics cooling fan behind the panel
> to get the air moving?Any other ideas?
>
> Regards,
> Paul Kuntz
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 914 Alternator Options |
| From: | "h&jeuropa" <butcher43(at)att.net> |
Jerry
Our 914 Europa has dual GRT EFIS, GRT EIS, GNS430, GMA340 & GTX327. Also AeroLED
pos & strobes. 914 so TCU & fuel pumps. Typically we see about 8-10 amps
load. The Rotax alt handles this with ease. There is a simple mod for the Ducatti
regulator to address it's potential failure but if you make sure it is cool,
it works fine at 10 amps.
We originally had a B&C 60 amp alt driven off the rear of the engine. There is
a photo earlier in this thread. The coupling failed after 250 hours and we decided
to try just the Rotax alt. So far another 250 hours and no problems.
We did replace the original Whelan lights with AeroLED when we swapped. The Whelans
draw a lot of current.
I'd suggest try just the Rotax alt. You can always add a B&C pad mount.
If you take off the blanking plate you may discover you have a vac pump drive already.
If not, it is easy to add, only requires removal of the gearbox. Lockwood
shows a retrofit package for $750. You can do it yourself or send out the
gearbox.
Hope this helps.
Jim Butcher
N241BW
475 hours and loving it!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406298#406298
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 UL alternator drop-out |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Your system can handle 16 amp continuous load. With this jumping around like this
my first pick for the problem is a poor ground. Most of the time on the LSA
I work on I find loose grounds. They may be hand tight, but wrench loose. Put
a wrench on all your grounds. I have found that this solves 80% of the electrical
issues on LSA especially where composite aircraft are concerned. Depending
on where you live corrosion can be a factor too. You may want to do a real time
amp check too. It is possible you may be pulling a little too much. Also check
for a loose wire on a connection. It may be ready to pull out or hanging
by a strand.
Rotax advertises 20A, but max is 18 intermittent and continuous is 16 amps.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406311#406311
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 914 Alternator Options |
| From: | rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us |
Hi Jim
"There is a simple mod for the Ducatti regulator to address it's
potential failure"
Can you provide any more information on this mod?
Thx.
Ron Parigoris
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 914 Alternator Options |
| From: | "h&jeuropa" <butcher43(at)att.net> |
Ron,
Supposedly the failure occurs when the regulator gets hot. If you look at a schematic
of the regulator, it is a bridge rectifier with two SCR and two diodes.
Supposedly, the diodes are poorly mounted from a thermal point of view and
that is what fails. The solution is to put two external diodes in parallel with
the originals. This can be done by connecting them between the yellow wires
and R. I'm away from my data but I found a bridge to do this. A bridge is
better than diodes because it provides a mounting surface that is not at R voltage.
I have not incorporated this but have the parts and will do this Fall.
I can email you the PN of the bridge later if you wish.
Jim
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406365#406365
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 914 Alternator Options |
| From: | rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us |
Hi Jim
Yes please E-Mail info.
I plan on adding a diode in series with the sense wire to raise the
voltage of the regulator. 14.2 to 14.4 is what Odyssey is happy seeing,
Ducati is set way low.
Ron P.
"h&jeuropa"
>
>
> Ron,
>
> Supposedly the failure occurs when the regulator gets hot. If you
look at
> a schematic of the regulator, it is a bridge rectifier with two SCR
and
> two diodes. Supposedly, the diodes are poorly mounted from a
thermal
> point of view and that is what fails. The solution is to put two
external
> diodes in parallel with the originals. This can be done by
connecting
> them between the yellow wires and R. I'm away from my data but I
found a
> bridge to do this. A bridge is better than diodes because it
provides a
> mounting surface that is not at R voltage.
>
> I have not incorporated this but have the parts and will do this
Fall.
>
> I can email you the PN of the bridge later if you wish.
>
> Jim
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406365#406365
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rotax part 966726 ignition modules |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
I recently had a hair-puller-outer problem with a 912 ULS that would not
start.
Since both carbs leaked fuel out the overflow tubes and they had not been
rebuilt ever, I did that. In studying the aircraft's fuel system and
studying the Rotax manual I found the fuel system had no return line.
Having not crafted a fuel system for a 912 before, and finding the
schematic in the IPC clear as mud, I contacted Roger Lee off list for some
advice. Like many on this list I've learned a lot from Roger and having him
take the time, while on vacation mind you, to give me the part numbers to
order is a testimony to his character, but that's an aside to this story.
All plumbed up, no joy on getting the engine to fire. Did all the
diagnostics and it boiled down to the ignition modules.
Fortunately, there is a message on the Rotax.com forum about ignition
modules that would not fire below a certain rpm and advised sending them to
Lockwood to be tested. Last Monday I called Lockwood, they emailed a work
order and I forwarded it to my customer so he could mail them out for
testing.
In talking to Aaron, he said this was a known problem. Some 966726 modules
go south and will not fire until some elevated rpm not reachable with a
starter. With their test system Lockwood can spin them up and determine the
point where firing begins. They have found that once they do fire, the
modules sometimes return to the correct firing rpm for awhile but when
allowed to set for a day or two will redevelop the defect.
Bottom line of this missive is that if you have a problem with engine
starting and you have done all the trouble shooting to make sure that an
ignition is not inadvertently grounded out at the switch or the wiring, it
may be worth your time to send them to Lockwood for testing.
I don't know if L.E.A.F. or CPS can do this test, the fellow who sent the
message used Lockwood so I did too.
There's an upside to this story. The new modules, p/n 966727 have the
capabilities of the 'Soft Start Module" built in. Rotax, aware of the
problem with the old moduels has a special price for the new modules, $913,
that is less than half the cost of the old modules and if you order them
from Lockwood they waive the cost of testing the old modules so you save a
further $50, too.
Rick Girard
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 914 Alternator Options |
| From: | "N6ZY" <jffisher(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks to all who responded to my original post about Rotax alternators. I think
that I will try using just the Rotax generator at first. I was put off by
the Rotax statement that the fuel pumps etc can take up to 8 amps, but it appears
that this is too pessimistic. Jim, your set up sounds very similar to mine.
Have you also fitted an autopilot, as these can take quite a bit of power
when operating?
I would also be interested in the diode mod to the Ducatti regulator. Could you
please either post it here, or email it to me? I will probably cover the regulator
with a cooling shroud as well.
Jerry
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406447#406447
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Klinefelter <klinefelter.kevin(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 914 Alternator Options |
Consider mounting the regulator on the passenger footwell front, inside the plenum
for the air filter. Should stay nice and cool in there.
Kevin
On Aug 11, 2013, at 8:37 AM, "N6ZY" wrote:
>
> Thanks to all who responded to my original post about Rotax alternators. I think
that I will try using just the Rotax generator at first. I was put off by
the Rotax statement that the fuel pumps etc can take up to 8 amps, but it appears
that this is too pessimistic. Jim, your set up sounds very similar to mine.
Have you also fitted an autopilot, as these can take quite a bit of power
when operating?
>
> I would also be interested in the diode mod to the Ducatti regulator. Could
you please either post it here, or email it to me? I will probably cover the
regulator with a cooling shroud as well.
>
> Jerry
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406447#406447
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 UL alternator drop-out |
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
Right you are Roger:
And when it comes to "INSPECTION" of electrical connections - Especially
Grounds - LQQKing at them is NOT inspecting. You must Remove them, Clean
them and Replace the Star Washer. And then if you are really good, Coat
them with Dielectric Grease or Paint... This keep moisture from starting
the corrosion process all over again.
You cannot see the corrosion all the time but, you sure can see the effects.
*Barry*
On Fri, Aug 9, 2013 at 10:07 AM, Roger Lee wrote:
>
> Your system can handle 16 amp continuous load. With this jumping around
> like this my first pick for the problem is a poor ground. Most of the time
> on the LSA I work on I find loose grounds. They may be hand tight, but
> wrench loose. Put a wrench on all your grounds. I have found that this
> solves 80% of the electrical issues on LSA especially where composite
> aircraft are concerned. Depending on where you live corrosion can be a
> factor too. You may want to do a real time amp check too. It is possible
> you may be pulling a little too much. Also check for a loose wire on a
> connection. It may be ready to pull out or hanging by a strand.
>
> Rotax advertises 20A, but max is 18 intermittent and continuous is 16 amps.
>
> --------
> Roger Lee
> Tucson, Az.
> Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
> Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
> Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
> Cell 520-349-7056
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406311#406311
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 914 Alternator Options |
| From: | "h&jeuropa" <butcher43(at)att.net> |
The bridge I selected is a 36MB120A, 35A 1200V bridge. It needs to mount on a
heat sink. Wakefield 403K fits nicely. Both available from Newark Electronics.
Jerry - I noticed on the GRT website that their two servos are powered from a 2.5
amp supply. I certainly have 2.5A available on my 914 Europa.
Jim Butcher
N241BW
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406692#406692
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 914 Alternator Options |
| From: | rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us |
Hi Jim
Thx. for providing us with the bridge information for 914 regulator:
"I selected is a 36MB120A, 35A 1200V bridge. It needs to mount on a
heat sink. Wakefield 403K fits nicely. Both available from Newark
Electronics."
Ron Parigoris
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rotax Owner videos not working |
| From: | Paul Kuntz <paul.r.kuntz(at)gmail.com> |
I haven't been able to view Rotax Owner videos in the last two days. For
instance, this one generates a web page with a black window where the video
should appear, but then it just sits there:
http://www.rotax-owner.com/all-videos/expanded-video-instructions/39-exp-si-27-010
Anyone else having this problem?
Paul Kuntz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AJR" <ajroseca(at)nf.sympatico.ca> |
Hi Guys
I have a zenair ch701 which has a 912uls engine..I recently put this
aircraft on
full lotus floats and it gets off and flies good however it seems that
the oil temperature
is going higher then normal,,I sometimes see the temperature a 230 and
more after take off
It has the air scoop for the oil cooler on the passenger side and I
widened the scoop for more air
The guide says 190 to 230 is the most favourable operating
temperatures.
I consider it to be high as I usually see temps in the 200 =93210
area..also when I check the
oil and follow the test of rotating the propeller and listening for the
gurgle in the header tank
I do not hear it..I am using the mobile MX 4T racing oil as suggested...
what is the oil filter
part number and which is the best suggested replacement filter to
use..what does the group
consider normal temperatures for the 912ULS engine
all advice and suggestions would be appreciated
Happy flying
AJ Rose
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Rotax 912 UL alternator |
drop-out
| From: | Paul Kuntz <paul.r.kuntz(at)gmail.com> |
Several inputs suggested checking the connections on the leads coming from
the alternator, and checking the system ground connections. I checked the
faston-type alternator lead connections, which were clean and tight. I
checked all of the ground connections, which were also tight. Yesterday I
went up for a test flight and confirmed the symptoms under varying system
loads. The normal system voltage with alternator on line is 13.8 volts,
which is consistent with what others are reporting for the Rotax Ducati
regulator. I see a max load of 10 amps with everything running, so I am
satisfied that the total load is well within the standard Rotax system
capacity. I also observed that the system voltage drops to 13.5 volts at
the 10 amp max load, which seems abnormal. Under this max load, the
alternator dropped out after a few minutes, indicated by system voltage
dropping to around 12.5 volts -- consistent with fully charged lead-acid
battery.
When I reduced the load to 3 amps, which is my practical minimum (one Dynon
display, radio and transponder), the alternator came back and stayed there,
with system voltage at the normal regulator set point of 13.8 volts.
I repeated this experiment a few times for various loads, finding that a
total load above 5 or 6 amps will cause the alternator to drop out after a
few minutes, and that it will come back when the load is reduced to 3
amps.
I am pretty well convinced that my voltage regulator is bad. I did learn
from comments on this issue that Van's includes a voltage regulator cooling
kit with its lighting kit for the RV-12, consisting of a length of plastic
tubing that connects from the air intake duct to a shroud over the
regulator, providing a direct blast of cooling air to counteract the
increased electrical load of the lighting. So there is certainly
indication that the Ducati regulator is susceptible to overheating under
load. The RV-12 regulator is on the engine side of the firewall, however,
and mine is on the cabin side. At 10 amps with the regulator mounted in
the cockpit environment, I'm thinking the regulator should be able to
handle the load without supplemental cooling. Others have noted the
not-so-good reputation of the Ducati regulator, but there are thousands of
them in service on Rotax engines worldwide, so rather than tackle a
reconfiguration of my regulator and wiring installation at this point , I
ordered a replacement Ducati from Lockwood Aviation and will see how it
goes. I also ordered a overvoltage protection module from B&C, since the
Pipistrel electrical system does not include one. I'll install it with the
new voltage regulator.
I'll report my findings after installing the new regulator.
Paul Kuntz
On Sat, Aug 10, 2013 at 10:21 PM, Paul Kuntz wrote:
> Thanks for the tips, everyone. I concur with Bob that my Ducati regulator
> is done for and should be replaced. I will take a look at the
> Schicke unit that Peter mentioned.
>
> Cheers,
> Paul Kuntz
>
>
> On Friday, August 9, 2013, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <
>> nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
>>
>> At 12:55 PM 8/9/2013, you wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks for the tip. I'll check this cooling shroud idea. I'm also
>>> wondering if my regulator has already been compromised. Any opinions on
>>> what my repeated fail/recover situation indicates? I would guess that it
>>> cycled between failed and recovered 8 or 10 times before we established a
>>> state where it stayed on line, limited to a total current draw of 3 amps.
>>>
>>
>> If your regulator can't carry 10A without cooling, it's
>> probably broke. A functional part should be capable of
>> rated output for the alternator which is on the order
>> of 18A. I've not heard of any mass-movements to forced
>> air cool these regulators.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Bob . . .
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912uls cooling |
| From: | andrew cullum <asc23111964(at)hotmail.co.uk> |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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912uls cooling |
| From: | andrew cullum <asc23111964(at)hotmail.co.uk> |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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912ULS Stumble below 4000 RPM on final ONLY** |
| From: | "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com> |
Here's another thought.
I have a similar issue in my 912s, at manifold pressures from 22 down to
18 inHg, the engine gets rough. If I advance the prop to more FINE, the rough range
narrows. This would speak for overloading the engine or lugging, not under
loading as initially suggested.
Over the years I've have several conversations with Phil Lockwood, Dean Vogel,
Bud Yearly and others. The most likely, but still unproven in my case, is Bud's
thought that in-flight one of the carb slides sticks. Bud has seen
a carb replacement cure the issue.
I may try it myself when I fly down to Sebring for my ten year maintenance.
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406972#406972
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Owner videos not working |
Paul,
First chance to test and, sure enough, just a black screen where the
video is supposed to be.
There's a "Contact Us" at the bottom of the page. I suggest you send
them a note as I just did.
Bob Borger,
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S prop.
On Aug 18, 2013, at 9:48 AM, Paul Kuntz wrote:
> I haven't been able to view Rotax Owner videos in the last two days.
For instance, this one generates a web page with a black window where
the video should appear, but then it just sits there:
http://www.rotax-owner.com/all-videos/expanded-video-instructions/39-exp-s
i-27-010
>
> Anyone else having this problem?
>
> Paul Kuntz
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Owner videos not working |
| From: | Paul Kuntz <paul.r.kuntz(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks for the confirmation, Bob. I did send them a note.
Paul
On Sun, Aug 18, 2013 at 11:08 AM, Robert Borger wrote:
> Paul,
>
> First chance to test and, sure enough, just a black screen where the video
> is supposed to be.
>
> There's a "Contact Us" at the bottom of the page. I suggest you send them
> a note as I just did.
>
> Bob Borger,
> Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S prop.
>
> On Aug 18, 2013, at 9:48 AM, Paul Kuntz wrote:
>
> I haven't been able to view Rotax Owner videos in the last two days. For
> instance, this one generates a web page with a black window where the video
> should appear, but then it just sits there:
> http://www.rotax-owner.com/all-videos/expanded-video-instructions/39-exp-si-27-010
>
> Anyone else having this problem?
>
> Paul Kuntz
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Pausing on Compression. |
| From: | andrew cullum <asc23111964(at)hotmail.co.uk> |
Hi AJ,
Sorry I must have mis-read some script.
Pausing on compressions just makes it
Easier,when all the oil has been pumped out of the crankcase up to the tank,the
gurgle is heard,with air now being drawn through.
Best regards
Andy Cullum.
Sent from my iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Owner videos not working |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
It will most likely get fixed tomorrow.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407002#407002
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912uls cooling |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Since you just put your plane on floats make sure your prop pitch is setup for
the extra drag. You may want to set your prop pitch to achieve at least 5600 -5800
rpm at WOT flat and level. Adding the drag will automatically increase the
oil temp. No big deal as 230F isn't an issue. If you fly in the Southwest US
230F is an everyday norm during the hot months. Up to 240F doesn't bother me,
but mine seems to be good at around 230F - 235F in climb and around 220F for
cruise (OAT 95-100F). My prop can achieve 5600-5650 rpm WOT flat and level.
Use the correct oil filter. Rotax Part #825-012. Many years ago the difference
from an automotive filter to a Rotax was negligible, but not when they came out
with the latest oil filter. The automotive filter by pass pressure is only 12-15
psi and years ago the Rotax was 13-16 psi. Now days the Rotax by pass pressure
is 18-22 psi, the filter has a check valve in it not found in an automotive
filter and a much softer better designed anti drain back membrane. It still
has a paper element, but there are now significant difference so stay with Rotax.
Of course there are those that say I have had an automotive filter on for
a while. This is like smoking cigarettes. One cigarette or even one pack won't
kill you or cause a disease, but a life time is deadly and causes debilitating
diseases.
You own an expensive engine and an expensive one to repair treat it right and don't
cause yourself any avoidable long term headaches and wallet strains.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407004#407004
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Rotax 912 UL alternator |
drop-out
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
Good report Paul.
A practical approach has prevailed.
Now since you know 10 Amps will overload the system and 5 to 6 Amps is
borderline for an overload. The next thing to do is COOL the unit and
apply 5 to 6 Amps and see if it stays online. If it stays online you now
know cooling is required.
Barry
On Sun, Aug 18, 2013 at 11:57 AM, Paul Kuntz wrote:
> Several inputs suggested checking the connections on the leads coming from
> the alternator, and checking the system ground connections. I checked the
> faston-type alternator lead connections, which were clean and tight. I
> checked all of the ground connections, which were also tight. Yesterday I
> went up for a test flight and confirmed the symptoms under varying system
> loads. The normal system voltage with alternator on line is 13.8 volts,
> which is consistent with what others are reporting for the Rotax Ducati
> regulator. I see a max load of 10 amps with everything running, so I am
> satisfied that the total load is well within the standard Rotax system
> capacity. I also observed that the system voltage drops to 13.5 volts at
> the 10 amp max load, which seems abnormal. Under this max load, the
> alternator dropped out after a few minutes, indicated by system voltage
> dropping to around 12.5 volts -- consistent with fully charged lead-acid
> battery.
>
> When I reduced the load to 3 amps, which is my practical minimum (one
> Dynon display, radio and transponder), the alternator came back and stayed
> there, with system voltage at the normal regulator set point of 13.8
> volts.
>
> I repeated this experiment a few times for various loads, finding that a
> total load above 5 or 6 amps will cause the alternator to drop out after a
> few minutes, and that it will come back when the load is reduced to 3
> amps.
>
> I am pretty well convinced that my voltage regulator is bad. I did learn
> from comments on this issue that Van's includes a voltage regulator cooling
> kit with its lighting kit for the RV-12, consisting of a length of plastic
> tubing that connects from the air intake duct to a shroud over the
> regulator, providing a direct blast of cooling air to counteract the
> increased electrical load of the lighting. So there is certainly
> indication that the Ducati regulator is susceptible to overheating under
> load. The RV-12 regulator is on the engine side of the firewall, however,
> and mine is on the cabin side. At 10 amps with the regulator mounted in
> the cockpit environment, I'm thinking the regulator should be able to
> handle the load without supplemental cooling. Others have noted the
> not-so-good reputation of the Ducati regulator, but there are thousands of
> them in service on Rotax engines worldwide, so rather than tackle a
> reconfiguration of my regulator and wiring installation at this point , I
> ordered a replacement Ducati from Lockwood Aviation and will see how it
> goes. I also ordered a overvoltage protection module from B&C, since the
> Pipistrel electrical system does not include one. I'll install it with the
> new voltage regulator.
>
> I'll report my findings after installing the new regulator.
>
> Paul Kuntz
>
>
> On Sat, Aug 10, 2013 at 10:21 PM, Paul Kuntz wrote:
>
>> Thanks for the tips, everyone. I concur with Bob that my Ducati
>> regulator is done for and should be replaced. I will take a look at the
>> Schicke unit that Peter mentioned.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Paul Kuntz
>>
>>
>> On Friday, August 9, 2013, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>>
>>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <
>>> nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
>>>
>>> At 12:55 PM 8/9/2013, you wrote:
>>>
>>>> Thanks for the tip. I'll check this cooling shroud idea. I'm also
>>>> wondering if my regulator has already been compromised. Any opinions on
>>>> what my repeated fail/recover situation indicates? I would guess that it
>>>> cycled between failed and recovered 8 or 10 times before we established a
>>>> state where it stayed on line, limited to a total current draw of 3 amps.
>>>>
>>>
>>> If your regulator can't carry 10A without cooling, it's
>>> probably broke. A functional part should be capable of
>>> rated output for the alternator which is on the order
>>> of 18A. I've not heard of any mass-movements to forced
>>> air cool these regulators.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Bob . . .
>>>
>>> ====**==============================**=
>>> -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/**
>>> Navigator?AeroElectric-List
>>> ====**==============================**=
>>> http://forums.matronics.com
>>> ====**==============================**=
>>> le, List Admin.
>>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/**contribution
>>> ====**==============================**=
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Best way to ship a Rotax 503. |
| From: | "mike91911" <ko1m.mike(at)gmail.com> |
What is the best way to package a Rotax 503 for shipping? I'm sending engine, gearbox
and carbs. The guy who is overhauling it recommended a 30 x 17 x 17" 350
lb. Double Wall Corrugated Box with plywood and 2x4's on the bottom with the
engine bolted to the 2x4's and then cushion with styrofoam sheeting. The box
is rated to hold 150lbs and the sides are rated to take 350lbs of sidewall pressure.
Others have said build a crate. If you recommend building a crate can you
offer any design advice?
Mike
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407255#407255
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Best way to ship a Rotax 503. |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
Mike, I've shipped two engines pretty much as you describe except I made a
base of plywood with a 2 X 2 frame to which the engine was bolted, then put
the box over the top and screwed it to the base. Both times the box was
ripped off by the shippers.
If I were you I'd ship it in a wooden crate. It won't weigh that much more
and that's about the minimum that has a chance against an idiot with a fork
lift.
Rick Girard
On Thu, Aug 22, 2013 at 3:09 PM, mike91911 wrote:
>
> What is the best way to package a Rotax 503 for shipping? I'm sending
> engine, gearbox and carbs. The guy who is overhauling it recommended a 30 x
> 17 x 17" 350 lb. Double Wall Corrugated Box with plywood and 2x4's on the
> bottom with the engine bolted to the 2x4's and then cushion with styrofoam
> sheeting. The box is rated to hold 150lbs and the sides are rated to take
> 350lbs of sidewall pressure. Others have said build a crate. If you
> recommend building a crate can you offer any design advice?
> Mike
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407255#407255
>
>
--
Zulu Delta
Mk IIIC
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Blumax008(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Best way to ship a Rotax 503. |
In a message dated 8/22/2013 4:19:19 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com writes:
It won't weigh that much more and that's about the minimum that has a
chance against an idiot with a fork lift.
Hey, I trucked for a living a few months when I made the Big Mistake of
getting out of commercial aviation. You're correct, there's plenty of idiots
in the trucking and fork lift fields of employment.
I once saw a man & wife trucking team with asses so wide they overlapped
an eight foot bench! True story!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Guy Buchanan <gebuchanan(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Best way to ship a Rotax 503. |
I shipped my 582 in a plastic Tupperware "crate" I bought at
K-mart. Plywood base with 2" styrofoam under, 2" styrofoam insulation
from Home Depot cut to fit tight so if the box turned over the plywood
base would rest on it, and lots of duct tape. I also did the corrugated
box successfully the same way: standard corrugated box doubled up with
some extra cardboard, raised plywood base, (2" styro under,) 2" styro
box over it with shaped support well taped together, lots of fiberglass
packing tape and duct tape. I also "made" lots of handles so the morons
wouldn't be tempted to forklift. (Cut holes in the box and reinforce
them with fiberglass tape.)
The main thing is to shape the styro supports so the engine is safe
resting in any position. Of course you'll mark it "This end up" anyway,
but we know how that works.
(Digression: I flew to Belize once for a bike trip. We boxed our
bikes, but didn't do it too carefully, figuring "what could happen?"
Well, when we got to Belize City we stood waiting in the customs line
out on the tarmac outside a small building and watched in horror as they
unloaded the plane by pushing the baggage out the baggage door of the
767 and letting it drop to the ground. I estimate the drop at about
8-10'. Fortunately the bikes survived.)
Guy Buchanan
Ramona, CA
Kitfox IV-1200 / 912-S / Warp 3cs / 500 hrs. and grounded
Now a glider pilot, too.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Best way to ship a Rotax 503. |
| From: | Vance Simons <vancesimons(at)gmail.com> |
I have shipped two 503's from Washington to AZ. I built a create out of OSB
with 2x2 skids on the bottom and also used 2x2 stock to frame the inside of
the box. Both boxes worked great and the engines were returned in the same
boxes I built. On one of them I made rope lifting handles and the second
one I just cut holes. I cut 1x2 stock and drilled holes in them to except
the mounting studs on the bottom of the engine then screwed them to the
bottom of the box when I had the engine in a position I liked it. I used
board foam to cushion the engine sides and egg foam on the top before
securing the box lid on. It may sound like overkill but I didn't want
anything to happen to my engine. I didn't have an issue with either of them
shipping. Hope this helps. I have seen engines shipped in less and do fine
also.
Vance.
On Aug 22, 2013 1:14 PM, "mike91911" wrote:
>
> What is the best way to package a Rotax 503 for shipping? I'm sending
> engine, gearbox and carbs. The guy who is overhauling it recommended a 30 x
> 17 x 17" 350 lb. Double Wall Corrugated Box with plywood and 2x4's on the
> bottom with the engine bolted to the 2x4's and then cushion with styrofoam
> sheeting. The box is rated to hold 150lbs and the sides are rated to take
> 350lbs of sidewall pressure. Others have said build a crate. If you
> recommend building a crate can you offer any design advice?
> Mike
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407255#407255
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Running 582 Engines LOP |
| From: | "BobP" <matronics(at)panth.co.uk> |
I have a Rotax 582 with a warp comp prop in a Pulsar. The engine has the oil injection
system fitted.
Because of the slippery Pulsar profile (5000rpm and 90 knots at 12 litres/hour)
EGTs tend to nudge the maximum limit when in fast cruise descent - because
of the low load on the fast revving engine. I prefer the keep the engine away
from red line limits, and can reduce EGTs by either throttling back even further
so the engine is developing minimal power, or by slowing the plane down and
applying flaps to make the plane more draggy.
Neither of these options is ideal, and I wondered if it is possible to safely reduce
EGTs (at cruise power) by running the 582 engine lean of peak (LOP) eg
by using a hacman type device to weaken the mixture. The normal cruise mix seems
fine (plugs noses mid to deep brown) so I don't want to raise the carb needle
and richen this setting.
Any thoughts/experience on running a 582 injected engine LOP appreciated - good
and bad.
Thanks
Bob P
--------
BobP
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407485#407485
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Guy Buchanan <gebuchanan(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Running 582 Engines LOP |
On 8/26/2013 4:37 AM, BobP wrote:
> Neither of these options is ideal, and I wondered if it is possible to safely
reduce EGTs (at cruise power) by running the 582 engine lean of peak (LOP) eg
by using a hacman type device to weaken the mixture. The normal cruise mix seems
fine (plugs noses mid to deep brown) so I don't want to raise the carb needle
and richen this setting.
>
Well. As far as I know there's no such thing as LOP for a 582. Or
if there is, the peak is well beyond what the engine will handle. So you
always live rich of peak, but constantly bump up against it, since the
EGT limit gives you best power and fuel economy. (That said, I have run
too lean by long descent with a lean mixture through "peak" until the
engine quit. The engine was at idle, however, so I never noticed an EGT
"peak".)
Your idea of using a Hacman for EGT control is a good one, though.
I used one all the time I had my 582 (4 years, 500 hours) and loved it.
I only had to change mains a couple of times, in Utah and Idaho, when I
was spending a lot of time at altitude and wanted to "re-center" my
mixture control. (My home port was at 1500'.) The Hacman gave me about
80F EGT range, which seems small, but is quite useful. What Hacman will
/not /do is give you enough control to go downhill any way you want. If
your mains are set correctly you'll /always /be able to redline the EGT
going down hill. You just have to get used to either very long or very
short or stepped descents. (There was another system on the market which
screwed the mid-range needles in and out that might have given more
control. Don't know what happened to it.) I highly recommend the Hacman.
(Easy to install, too.)
Guy Buchanan
Ramona, CA
Kitfox IV-1200 / 912-S / Warp 3cs / 500 hrs. and grounded
Now a glider pilot, too.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stan Tew <stan_tew(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 08/26/13 |
Bob,=0A=0A2 strokes run on a very fine line between "just right" and "too l
ean". When the mixture gets too lean the cylinder is subject to pre-ignitio
n. This is disastrous. If you need proof I can post a photo of a 582 piston
with a .5 in hole in the center of the piston crown.=0A=0A=0A-=0ASTAN 2
=0AN29TD=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0A From: RotaxEngines-
List Digest Server =0ATo: RotaxEngines-Lis
t Digest List =0ASent: Tuesday, Au
gust 27, 2013 2:00 AM=0ASubject: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 08/26/1
3=0A =0A=0A*=0A=0A===================
=======0A- Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive=0A
=0A=0AToday's complete RotaxEngines-List Digest can also be found in either
of the =0Atwo Web Links listed below.- The .html file includes the Diges
t formatted =0Ain HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlin
ked Indexes =0Aand Message Navigation.- The .txt file includes the plain
ASCII version =0Aof the RotaxEngines-List Digest and can be viewed with a g
eneric text editor =0Asuch as Notepad or with a web browser. =0A=0AHTML Ver
sion:=0A=0A- - http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=8
2701&View=html&Chapter 13-08-26&Archive=RotaxEngines=0A=0AText Vers
ion:=0A=0A- - http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82
701&View=txt&Chapter 13-08-26&Archive=RotaxEngines=0A=0A=0A==
======================0A- EMai
l Version of Today's List Digest Archive=0A==========
==============0A=0A=0A- - - - - ------
----------------------------------------------------=0A- - - - -
- - - - - - - - RotaxEngines-List Digest Archive=0A- -
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ---=0A
- - - - - - - - - - Total Messages Posted Mon 08/26/13
: 2=0A- - - - - ------------------------------------------------
----------=0A=0A=0AToday's Message Index:=0A----------------------=0A=0A-
- 1. 04:39 AM - Running 582 Engines LOP- (BobP)=0A- - 2. 07:52 A
M - Re: Running 582 Engines LOP- (Guy Buchanan)=0A=0A=0A=0A______________
__________________- Message 1- _____________________________________=0A
gines LOP=0AFrom: "BobP" <matronics(at)panth.co.uk>=0A=0A=0AI have a Rotax 582
with a warp comp prop in a Pulsar. The engine has the oil injection=0Asyst
em fitted.=0A=0ABecause of the slippery Pulsar profile- (5000rpm and 90 k
nots at 12 litres/hour)=0AEGTs tend to nudge the maximum limit- when in f
ast cruise descent - because=0Aof the low load on the fast revving engine.
I prefer the keep the engine away=0Afrom red line limits, and can reduce EG
Ts by either throttling back even further=0Aso the engine is developing min
imal power, or by slowing the plane down and=0Aapplying flaps to make the p
lane more draggy. =0A=0ANeither of these options is ideal, and I wondered i
f it is possible to safely reduce=0AEGTs (at cruise power) by running the 5
82 engine- lean of peak (LOP) eg=0Aby using a hacman type device to weake
n the mixture. The normal cruise mix seems=0Afine (plugs noses mid to deep
brown) so I don't want to raise the carb needle=0Aand richen this setting.
=0A=0AAny thoughts/experience on running a 582 injected engine LOP apprecia
ted - good=0Aand bad.=0A=0AThanks=0A=0ABob P=0A=0A--------=0ABobP=0A=0A=0AR
ead this topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?
p=407485#407485=0A=0A=0A________________________________- Message 2-
om: Guy Buchanan =0ASubject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Run
ning 582 Engines LOP=0A=0AOn 8/26/2013 4:37 AM, BobP wrote:=0A> Neither of
these options is ideal, and I wondered if it is possible to safely=0Areduce
EGTs (at cruise power) by running the 582 engine- lean of peak (LOP) eg
=0Aby using a hacman type device to weaken the mixture. The normal cruise m
ix seems=0Afine (plugs noses mid to deep brown) so I don't want to raise th
e carb needle=0Aand richen this setting.=0A>- - =0A- - Well. As fa
r as I know there's no such thing as LOP for a 582. Or =0Aif there is, the
peak is well beyond what the engine will handle. So you =0Aalways live rich
of peak, but constantly bump up against it, since the =0AEGT limit gives y
ou best power and fuel economy. (That said, I have run =0Atoo lean by long
descent with a lean mixture through "peak" until the =0Aengine quit. The en
gine was at idle, however, so I never noticed an EGT =0A"peak".)=0A- -
Your idea of using a Hacman for EGT control is a good one, though. =0AI us
ed one all the time I had my 582 (4 years, 500 hours) and loved it. =0AI on
ly had to change mains a couple of times, in Utah and Idaho, when I =0Awas
spending a lot of time at altitude and wanted to "re-center" my =0Amixture
control. (My home port was at 1500'.) The Hacman gave me about =0A80F EGT r
ange, which seems small, but is quite useful. What Hacman will =0A/not /do
is give you enough control to go downhill any way you want. If =0Ayour main
s are set correctly you'll /always /be able to redline the EGT =0Agoing dow
n hill. You just have to get used to either very long or very =0Ashort or s
tepped descents. (There was another system on the market which =0Ascrewed t
he mid-range needles in and out that might have given more =0Acontrol. Don'
t know what happened to it.) I highly recommend the Hacman. =0A(Easy to ins
tall, too.)=0A=0AGuy Buchanan=0ARamona, CA=0AKitfox IV-1200 / 912-S / Warp
=================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe & Jan Connell" <jconnell(at)fmwildblue.com> |
| Subject: | Running 582 Engines LOP |
I=99ve been doing a bit of reflecting about running Lean of Peak
(LOP) on Rotax 2-cycle engines.
Four-cycle engines have have an oil pump to distribute oil for
lubrication. In the two-cycle engine, it is the air/oil mixture that
provides the cylinder-to-piston lubrication. It would seem somewhat
risky to get excessively lean as this might lead to seized pistons. Can
someone qualify this issue a little more fully for me?
Thanks...
Joe Connell
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Running 582 Engines LOP
From: "BobP" <matronics(at)panth.co.uk>
I have a Rotax 582 with a warp comp prop in a Pulsar. The engine has the
oil injection
system fitted.
Because of the slippery Pulsar profile (5000rpm and 90 knots at 12
litres/hour)
EGTs tend to nudge the maximum limit when in fast cruise descent -
because
of the low load on the fast revving engine. I prefer the keep the engine
away
from red line limits, and can reduce EGTs by either throttling back even
further
so the engine is developing minimal power, or by slowing the plane down
and
applying flaps to make the plane more draggy.
Neither of these options is ideal, and I wondered if it is possible to
safely reduce
EGTs (at cruise power) by running the 582 engine lean of peak (LOP) eg
by using a hacman type device to weaken the mixture. The normal cruise
mix seems
fine (plugs noses mid to deep brown) so I don't want to raise the carb
needle
and richen this setting.
Any thoughts/experience on running a 582 injected engine LOP appreciated
- good
and bad.
Thanks
Bob P
--------
BobP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Guy Buchanan <gebuchanan(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Running 582 Engines LOP |
In a 2-cycle there's no cooling cycle and no oil bath on the back side
of the piston so max EGT's are much lower. (1250F versus 1600F) If you
seriously exceed the EGT limit on a 2-cycle you generally melt a hole in
the top of the piston which reduces your compression somewhat.
Guy Buchanan
Ramona, CA
Kitfox IV-1200 / 912-S / Warp 3cs / 500 hrs. and grounded
Now a glider pilot, too.
On 8/27/2013 10:28 AM, Joe & Jan Connell wrote:
> Four-cycle engines have have an oil pump to distribute oil for
> lubrication. In the two-cycle engine, it is the air/oil mixture that
> provides the cylinder-to-piston lubrication. It would seem somewhat
> risky to get excessively lean as this might lead to seized pistons.
> Can someone qualify this issue a little more fully for me?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | george may <gfmjr_20(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Running 582 Engines LOP |
Just wanted to check with the group before I begin my carb rebuilds. I hav
e a 912uls on a Zodiac 601XLB that has started to be hard starting =2C in f
act it will not start now unless I spray starting fluid into the air intake
. Only did it once to convince myself it was a fuel issue. the engine star
ted and would restart after an hour. However=2C if I leave the plane for a
week or so it will not start. The engine acts like it is not getting fuel.
I've pulled the carb bowls and all looks fine. Fuel in bowl and fuel is
about 1/2 inch from top. Engine has 450 hours without a carb rebuild. A
ny other ideas what it could be? All input appreciated ThanksGeorge
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | george may <gfmjr_20(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | 912uls hard starting |
Sorry about the confusion in the title
From: gfmjr_20(at)hotmail.com
Subject: RE: RotaxEngines-List: Running 582 Engines LOP
Date: Tue=2C 27 Aug 2013 17:19:08 -0400
=0A
=0A
=0A
Just wanted to check with the group before I begin my carb rebuilds. I hav
e a 912uls on a Zodiac 601XLB that has started to be hard starting =2C in f
act it will not start now unless I spray starting fluid into the air intake
. Only did it once to convince myself it was a fuel issue. the engine star
ted and would restart after an hour. However=2C if I leave the plane for a
week or so it will not start. The engine acts like it is not getting fuel.
I've pulled the carb bowls and all looks fine. Fuel in bowl and fuel is
about 1/2 inch from top. Engine has 450 hours without a carb rebuild. A
ny other ideas what it could be? All input appreciated ThanksGeorge
=0A
=0A
=0A
=0A
============0A
============0A
============0A
============0A
=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912uls hard starting |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
1/2" below the rim of the carb bowl is way too low. Double check the float arm
height above the carb rim. It should be 10.5mm.
The carbs have to be off and upside down to check this. 450 hours is nothing, but
how old are they?
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407619#407619
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912uls hard starting |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Here is one last ignition module check. Place an ice bag on top and or around the
ignition modules for 15-20 minutes and try a start. If it starts right up buy
new modules. Yours are defective. Not kidding about the ice.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407697#407697
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "egp8111" <egp8111(at)aol.com> |
My 582 greyhead is showing 80 psi compression on both cyl according to my new
compression guage. I think the recommended psi is 100. The engine runs well
and is strong. Any suggestions on where else I need to check to see if there
are problems.
Thanks
EG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407826#407826
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Blumax008(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 582 compression |
None, fly and have fun.
I had both the 503 and the 582 with well over 1,000 hours each with no
problems other than de-carboning & plug changes at about 150 hours. Used
Pennzoil air-cooled oil.
The 300 hour recommended overhaul is B.S. Started with Cuyunas in '80 then
went with Rotax in about '85 or whenever they first came out. Great
motor...the Rotax I mean.
In a message dated 8/31/2013 9:39:54 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
egp8111(at)aol.com writes:
--> RotaxEngines-List message posted by: "egp8111"
My 582 greyhead is showing 80 psi compression on both cyl according to my
new compression guage. I think the recommended psi is 100. The engine
runs well and is strong. Any suggestions on where else I need to check to
see if there are problems.
Thanks
EG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=407826#407826
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 07/09/13 |
| From: | Henry Roden <krazydoc33(at)gmail.com> |
It took awhile to track down what was causing the large mag drops. For the
sake of accuracy i should refer to them as ignition modules not mags.
Just after I last wrote the Dynon Skyview display failed and needed to be
returned to Dynon for repair. A number of other things happened, to me and
not the plane, at the same time causing further delays. The ignition wires
were connected to the correct cylinders, according to the wiring labels and
the cylinder markings. BUT the cylinders were mis-marked on the left hand
side! (I take the "fifth" on who did the marking! )
Correcting that cleared up the the large RPM drop and all appears to be
normal although it still looks like it is running rich based on the plugs
and the exhaust pipe. After more than 60 years around auto engines I am
surprised that a four cylinder engine will run at all with two plug wires
reversed. Thanks for all of the suggestions.
Henry
On Wed, Jul 10, 2013 at 1:01 AM, RotaxEngines-List Digest Server <
rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com> wrote:
> *
>
> =================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> =================================================
>
> Today's complete RotaxEngines-List Digest can also be found in either of
> the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
> of the RotaxEngines-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text
> editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 13-07-09&Archive=RotaxEngines
>
> Text Version:
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 13-07-09&Archive=RotaxEngines
>
>
> ===============================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ===============================================
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> RotaxEngines-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Tue 07/09/13: 3
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 07:47 AM - Re: Re: I Love Left handed drill bits (Richard Girard)
> 2. 08:44 PM - Large mag drop (krazydoc33)
> 3. 11:06 PM - Re: Large mag drop (Roger Lee)
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Re: I Love Left handed drill bits
> From: Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com>
>
> Thom, As Roger noted the Locktite comes applied to the fixation screw in
> dry form. Also, the use of Locktite 221 is specified for this part in the
> 912 Illustrated Parts Catalog.
>
> Rick Girard
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 8, 2013 at 7:19 AM, Thom Riddle wrote:
>
> > >
> >
> > Anyone who thinks that this connection needs thread locker clearly does
> > not understand that aluminum has a very high coefficient of friction. In
> > use, there is no external torque that would tend to loosen this
> connection.
> > Applying thread locker to this connection is unnecessary and a very bad
> > idea.
> >
> > --------
> > Thom Riddle
> > Buffalo, NY (9G0)
> >
> >
> > Don't worry about old age... it doesn't last very long.
> > - Anonymous
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404178#404178
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Zulu Delta
> Mk IIIC
> Thanks, Homer GBYM
>
> It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
> - Groucho Marx
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Large mag drop
> From: "krazydoc33" <galaxyone(at)juno.com>
>
>
> I have a 912ULS in a RV-12, the plane has just been signed off by the DAR
> but I
> have not yet flown it. The engine starts fine right away and has about 2
> hours
> of taxi time on the engine. I get 5050 rpm at wide open throttle and the
> airport
> is at ~5000'. The weather here is in the 90+range shortly after 9:00 am.
> The problem I am having, which has kept me on the ground, is the mag drop.
> It
> is about 650 rpm on each ignition and they both run rough. They are close
> together
> but that much of a rpm drop seems very unusual. The exhaust pipe is sooted
> which suggests it is running rich. The plugs also are very black and
> cleaning
> them has no effect. All the other temperatures look normal. I tried a five
> minute
> run at full throttle and that had no effect either. Any ideas where to look
> next will be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks
> Henry
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404353#404353
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 3
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: Large mag drop
> From: "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com>
>
>
> Hi Henry,
>
>
> 650 is way to high. The good thing is they are almost equal. What rpm are
> you doing
> the mag drop at?
> What is the plug gap? It should be between .023 and .027. Better to be
> the wider
> gap for the summer months. Are you running an electric pump with the
> mechanical
> all the time? Have you synced these carbs? Did you put a fuel
> re-circulation line in during the build. The new pumps really need one.
> Where did
> you mount the carb vent tubes? These carbs almost sound like they are
> flooding,
> but we could use a little more info.
>
> It is possible you have a wire connected wrong.
>
> --------
> Roger Lee
> Tucson, Az.
> Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
> Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
> Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
> Cell 520-349-7056
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404355#404355
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 07/09/13 |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Henry,
Glad the problem is solved. As far as the rich part, do not base any rich conclusions
on black dry soot on the plugs when it has been run at idle. You need to
run the engine over 4000 for 5-10 minutes and then shut it down. It is normal
to have dry sooty plugs from idle, but that goes away at the higher rpms. Not
everyone has it or does it happen to the same plugs all the time. I would fly
it a time or two before making any solid conclusions.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408226#408226
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912uls hard starting |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi George,
12.7V should have been fine to start the engine, but I would double check my wire
size and length. If the size is too small or the wire too long for its size
it will have too much resistance. So when the battery dips a little and the voltage
is down just a little it won't start unless the battery is completely full.
If the wire is good then 12.5 should start that engine. I know this isn't
really taught, but rotating the prop for the gurgle will help a marginal start
up be easier.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408227#408227
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Elling <jelling(at)newmexico.com> |
| Subject: | "Mil Spec" Rotax 914 |
There is a guy selling a military spec 914 fuel injected engine on
Barnstormers. I think it is off a predator drone.
One modification I can see is the turbo is top-mounted.
Does anyone have any info on what if anything is modified as a military
spec? Does anyone know how they implemented fuel injection on these
engines?
The engine has 1000 hours on it so it is about to 1200 TBO. What is a
run-out 914 worth.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: "Mil Spec" Rotax 914 |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
You might check the real hours. I have a friend and he said they run those through
one TBO. It is possible it has a lot more hours on it so double check and
many of these military engine weren't supposed to make the civilian market, but
some have. It may be a tired engine. I wouldn't buy it unless it has it's paperwork
in order since new. These engines are buyer be ware, but some have worked
out.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408767#408767
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Prop pitch lower rpm limit |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
A customer's purchased airplane, a Just Aircraft Highlander, with a 912 ULS
and Kiev prop is set for 4900 rpm in climb. I believe he'd be happier if it
were set at 5200. Certainly he would get better climb and the airplane is
not a speedster so I'm not that concerned about what he'd lose in cruise
flight.
I'm also concerned about case cracking. I've been through the archives and
through the Service Bulletins and cannot find any reference to a lower
limit and a link cracking.
Is it myth, legend, rumor or documented by Rotax?
Rick Girard
--
Zulu Delta
Mk IIIC
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prop pitch lower rpm limit |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Case cracking is very real and has happened to several people. It usually happens
to the older cases from roughly May 2006 and previous. They all came from too
much stress from too much prop pitch. So long as your friend can see at least
5500 (5600-5650 is would be better) he most likely won't ever have an issue.
4900 in climb has a few variables, but should be around 5500 WOT in flat and
level flight. People with the older engines only seeing 5200+/- rpm WOT in flat
and level flight are playing Russian roulette. They may win for a long time,
but one day may be it.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408828#408828
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Diameter of Fuel line on a 914. |
| From: | "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net> |
Hi All,
Just a quick question.
Europa with a Rotax 914 engine.
What is the rubber fuel line diameter, need the fittings for a Floscan
Fuel sender, is it 1/4" or 6mm or 8mm hose used.
regards.
Alan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408905#408905
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Diameter of Fuel line on a 914. |
Floscan uses -6 AN fittings. You might persuade David Joyce (photographer).
to send you a picture-of a manifold installation we did.=0AGraham=0A=0A_
_______________________________=0A From: Alan Carter <alancarteresq@onetel.
net>=0ATo: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com =0ASent: Friday, 20 September 20
13, 20:36=0ASubject: RotaxEngines-List: Diameter of Fuel line on a 914.=0A
@onetel.net>=0A=0AHi All,=0AJust a quick question.=0AEuropa with a Rotax 91
4 engine.=0AWhat is the rubber fuel line diameter, need the fittings for a
Floscan =0AFuel sender, is it 1/4" or 6mm or 8mm hose used.=0Aregards.=0AAl
an=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.
==============
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Diameter of Fuel line on a 914. |
| From: | Neville Eyre <neveyre(at)aol.com> |
Hi Alan,
914 fuel system uses 8mm hose.
Cheers,
Nev
-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Carter <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net>
Sent: Fri, Sep 20, 2013 8:37 pm
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Diameter of Fuel line on a 914.
l.net>
Hi All,
Just a quick question.
Europa with a Rotax 914 engine.
What is the rubber fuel line diameter, need the fittings for a Floscan
Fuel sender, is it 1/4" or 6mm or 8mm hose used.
regards.
Alan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408905#408905
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Diameter of Fuel line on a 914. |
| From: | "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net> |
Hi Neville Graham.
Parts for Aircraft sold me two of the 1/4" Kits,
So I need two of the 8 mm kits for Europa pipe work.
See link.
http://www.parts4aircraft.com/floscan-fuel-flow-computer.html
Regards.
Alan
Will get them to change the kits if that correct.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408934#408934
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Kulp <undoctor(at)ptd.net> |
| Subject: | 447 problem and expense |
Hello Rotax wizards,
I'm searching for answers while I still live and breathe and have some
money left. I'll try to give all the pertinent info to see if someone
on the list can come up with an answer no small engine mechanic I spoke
to in my area was able to diagnose.
I have a FireFly which was damaged when Hurricane Sandy blew through.
Last winter I removed the wings and took them to a builder for some
rather minor repairs. I didn't get them back until well into the flying
season, but my 447 was safely fogged before shutdown.
A couple of months ago when I got the wings back and mounted I set the
FF up and started the engine. It seemed to run pretty good after
setting for so long, but the front cylinder wasn't warming up at the
same rate as the rear. After both cylinders were within operating temps
I revved it a while, then tied the FF off and gave it full throttle to
check max static RPMs. I was looking for the 6200 I had before the
Hurricane, but could only get 5800, so I shut it down and put the carb
at defualt settings. I started it up again and ran it up to max, still
5800, and left it work for less than two minutes, hoping if a ring was
stuck, etc. it would loosen up and run right.
At WOT the engine shut down and pulling the exhaust manifold revealed a
scored front piston. Since no one could give me a definitive diagnosis
of why it seized and since the piston had to be replaced, etc. I bought
two 1 over piston sets, the gasket packet for an overhaul, sent the jugs
to be bored to accept the 1 voer pistions, and had a good motorcycle
mechanic put it all together (one who builds motorcycles).
Put the engine back on, along with a new EGT thermocouple to replace one
I had to butcher to get out of the manifold, and started it up. It
started easily but idled rough needing the enricher to be halfway out
and it wouldn't take any throttle, so I removed the carb and took it to
the mechanic who cleaned it and replaced the needle and jets.
Put the carb back on and started it up. It now idled smoothly and took
fuel beautifully but the one EGT didn't begin to rise for quite a few
seconds. It did, however come up to the other cylinder temp and the
CHTs were pretty similar in their rise, so I thought with new bores,
pistons, carb, it must be the response of the new EGT thermocouple. I
ran it up and down, up and down, then tied it off to check max static.
It got up to over 6100, so I was satisfied that a new tight engine may
have to break in a tad before it would reach the 6200 it had before. I
taxied down to the end of the runway, which is downhill, turned around
and taxied back up the hill where I could give it quite a bit of
throttle without taking off. It sounded smooth and beautiful, so I
taxied all the way to the top of the runway to give myself all the
runway I could since I had to analyze any effect of the repaired wings
before going out.
Ran it up against the brakes almost to tail-up, released the brakes
started my roll, giving it full throttle as soon as I had horizontal
stab authority. It took off beautifully, the handling was accurate and
neat so I pulled the stick back and said goodbye to the world for the
first time in almost a year.
It was a euphoric few minutes, the engine sounded fantastic, so at about
1000' AGL I throttled back and leveled off. Within seconds it got very
quiet and knowing I couldn't do a 180 and land back at the strip I
looked for a place to set down. Nice field next to a road so I set my
glide path for it. I thought it was a soybean field, which it was, and
that soybeans grew low, which they don't and quickly learned that
landing in a soybean field in October is only slightly better than
landing in a forest.
A man who saw me going in took me back to the airstrip where I got my
cycle and rode back to the FF to remove the radio, GPS, etc. My
analysis was, since the engine and carb were virtually new, it must be
electrical or fuel starvation. I flipped the ignition switch, pulled
the starter and it fired up on the first pull. Advanced the throttle
and it wanted to fly.
Next day I returned and disassembled the plane and removed the engine,
wings and all the little stuff, walked them out the path through the 2'
high tangle of soybeans to my pickup and returned them to my hangar.
Last Thur. a couple of friends went with me and we carried the plane out
of the field. I brought the engine, chute, etc., home and a few days
ago I removed the exhaust manifold to make sure the pistons were OK.
They weren't; the front piston had seized again. Ever see a grown man
cry????
Before I go any further with repairing the engine or the FF I want to be
pretty sure of what I'm looking at, so if any of you experienced Rotax
wrenchers have an educated theory, I'd just love to hear it. Any and
all thoughts are welcome and will add to the data bank.
Thanks,
Dave Kulp
Bethlehem, PA
FireFly 11DMK
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 447 problem and expense |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
Dave, I am very sorry to hear about your troubles and that the Flag Fly is
down again. It sounds like you have an air leak on the front cylinder. You
might have a front seal that's gone bad, a leak in the gasket at the intake
manifold front cylinder, or a leak at the exhaust manifold. Does your
mechanic know how to do a crankcase pressure test? You might have to get a
little fancier than and include both manifolds, but I think that might be
where to start.
Let me tell you a story. I have a Shovelhead Harley. When I first got it I
had an S & S Super B carb that was worn out so I got the latest and
greatest, the S & S Super E. The engine ran great, except every time I
looked at the plugs I had a white front plug and a dark brown rear plug. I
must have changed O rings and intake clamps a dozen times. I tried rubber
band seals instead. I even tried a high bred system that used both O rings
AND rubber bands. I was really stumped and then a buddy of mine suggested I
try an SU carb. I did and the problem went away. I sold the S & S carb to a
buddy. He put it on and within a week he called to say he had a dark front
plug and a white rear plug. I was just insane and drove right over to his
house. We looked at the carb and intake manifold, had a couple of shots of
good single malt scotch, and then I had an idea. I asked Charlie for his
dental mirror and went looking for the mark on the intake manifold that
tells you it's right side up (even though it's symmetrical). Sure enough he
had put the intake with the mark on the bottom, I always had it on top. All
that time I'd been fighting the wrong battle. The intake manifold had a
small porosity on one leg, hence the color of the plugs changed from
Charlie's engine to mine, when the porosity moved from front to back.
My point is that the problem with your engine may not lie in an obvious
direction. Don't give up.
Rick Girard
On Thu, Oct 17, 2013 at 2:29 PM, David Kulp wrote:
>
> Hello Rotax wizards,
>
> I'm searching for answers while I still live and breathe and have some
> money left. I'll try to give all the pertinent info to see if someone on
> the list can come up with an answer no small engine mechanic I spoke to in
> my area was able to diagnose.
>
> I have a FireFly which was damaged when Hurricane Sandy blew through.
> Last winter I removed the wings and took them to a builder for some rather
> minor repairs. I didn't get them back until well into the flying season,
> but my 447 was safely fogged before shutdown.
>
> A couple of months ago when I got the wings back and mounted I set the FF
> up and started the engine. It seemed to run pretty good after setting for
> so long, but the front cylinder wasn't warming up at the same rate as the
> rear. After both cylinders were within operating temps I revved it a
> while, then tied the FF off and gave it full throttle to check max static
> RPMs. I was looking for the 6200 I had before the Hurricane, but could
> only get 5800, so I shut it down and put the carb at defualt settings. I
> started it up again and ran it up to max, still 5800, and left it work for
> less than two minutes, hoping if a ring was stuck, etc. it would loosen up
> and run right.
>
> At WOT the engine shut down and pulling the exhaust manifold revealed a
> scored front piston. Since no one could give me a definitive diagnosis of
> why it seized and since the piston had to be replaced, etc. I bought two 1
> over piston sets, the gasket packet for an overhaul, sent the jugs to be
> bored to accept the 1 voer pistions, and had a good motorcycle mechanic put
> it all together (one who builds motorcycles).
>
> Put the engine back on, along with a new EGT thermocouple to replace one I
> had to butcher to get out of the manifold, and started it up. It started
> easily but idled rough needing the enricher to be halfway out and it
> wouldn't take any throttle, so I removed the carb and took it to the
> mechanic who cleaned it and replaced the needle and jets.
>
> Put the carb back on and started it up. It now idled smoothly and took
> fuel beautifully but the one EGT didn't begin to rise for quite a few
> seconds. It did, however come up to the other cylinder temp and the CHTs
> were pretty similar in their rise, so I thought with new bores, pistons,
> carb, it must be the response of the new EGT thermocouple. I ran it up and
> down, up and down, then tied it off to check max static. It got up to over
> 6100, so I was satisfied that a new tight engine may have to break in a tad
> before it would reach the 6200 it had before. I taxied down to the end of
> the runway, which is downhill, turned around and taxied back up the hill
> where I could give it quite a bit of throttle without taking off. It
> sounded smooth and beautiful, so I taxied all the way to the top of the
> runway to give myself all the runway I could since I had to analyze any
> effect of the repaired wings before going out.
>
> Ran it up against the brakes almost to tail-up, released the brakes
> started my roll, giving it full throttle as soon as I had horizontal stab
> authority. It took off beautifully, the handling was accurate and neat so
> I pulled the stick back and said goodbye to the world for the first time in
> almost a year.
>
> It was a euphoric few minutes, the engine sounded fantastic, so at about
> 1000' AGL I throttled back and leveled off. Within seconds it got very
> quiet and knowing I couldn't do a 180 and land back at the strip I looked
> for a place to set down. Nice field next to a road so I set my glide path
> for it. I thought it was a soybean field, which it was, and that soybeans
> grew low, which they don't and quickly learned that landing in a soybean
> field in October is only slightly better than landing in a forest.
>
> A man who saw me going in took me back to the airstrip where I got my
> cycle and rode back to the FF to remove the radio, GPS, etc. My analysis
> was, since the engine and carb were virtually new, it must be electrical or
> fuel starvation. I flipped the ignition switch, pulled the starter and it
> fired up on the first pull. Advanced the throttle and it wanted to fly.
>
> Next day I returned and disassembled the plane and removed the engine,
> wings and all the little stuff, walked them out the path through the 2'
> high tangle of soybeans to my pickup and returned them to my hangar. Last
> Thur. a couple of friends went with me and we carried the plane out of the
> field. I brought the engine, chute, etc., home and a few days ago I
> removed the exhaust manifold to make sure the pistons were OK. They
> weren't; the front piston had seized again. Ever see a grown man cry????
>
> Before I go any further with repairing the engine or the FF I want to be
> pretty sure of what I'm looking at, so if any of you experienced Rotax
> wrenchers have an educated theory, I'd just love to hear it. Any and all
> thoughts are welcome and will add to the data bank.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave Kulp
> Bethlehem, PA
> FireFly 11DMK
>
>
--
Zulu Delta
Mk IIIC
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sacha" <uuccio(at)gmail.com> |
I was re-reading the 912 installation manual and noticed that it recommends
a 30 micron fuel filter in the unpressurized section of the fuel system and
then a 15 micron filter in the pressurized section. My Kitfox only has a
gascolator.
Can someone recommend a filter to install in the pressurized section? Where
exactly would one put it? A filter with replacement cartridges that are
easy to buy in Europe would be a plus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net> |
Hi.All.
Just a quick question to those electrical nerds out there.
I have just installed a terminal block in my Europa, the two bolts that hold the
terminal block are bolted through the fibre glass on the inside of the instrument
panel, nothing can touch the heads of these two bolts on the inside as they
are insulated.
I want too make use of there threaded length as extra terminals so my eye let connectors
can fit down them.
Odd maybe, but it would be useful if I could use them, fibre glass is a none conductive
material , is there Any reason this would not work,
Regards.
Alan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411147#411147
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Terminal Block. |
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
Alan:
What kind of terminal block do you have?
Here is a link to what I think you are referring to:
https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&b
iw=1274&bih=898&q=terminal+blocks+electrical&oq=terminal+blocks&gs_
l=img.1.2.0l4j0i5l6.1843.6298.0.10217.15.12.0.3.3.0.100.824.11j1.12.0....
0...1ac.1.29.img..0.15.846.PmNwcMhs4AE#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=hJIlSYK
4bCtOSM%3A%3BNW7ZZ7CTMeNseM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.monumentalelevatorsupp
ly.com%252Fimages%252Fproduct_images%252FTerminalBlock.bmp%3Bhttp%253A%252F
%252Fwww.monumentalelevatorsupply.com%252Findex.cfm%253Ffuseaction%253Dshow
Entity%2526entityID%253D238%2526catID%253D289%3B433%3B237
Here is also a picture - But, I don't know if it will come through.
So, I gather that you are referring to the mounting holes to the left and
right. Well, the question is: What material do the bolts go through? If
it is fiberglass than they would be insulated. If it is metal than they
would NOT be insulated and could be used for a GROUND point. But, NOT for
the B+ (positive side of the circuit) .
As a side note: It is recommended that you do NOT use more than 3 ring
lugs (stacked) on a single screw of the insulated terminal strip and 4 ring
lugs on a single point ground. Of course the argument is : I'm
experimental I can do anything I want. And I have seen a solid inch (1")
of screw stacked with ring lugs, I think there might have been 20 ring
lugs. Did it work? Yes. Is it safe? NO!
*Barry*
*=93Chop=92d Liver=94*
NJ has taken the next step. They are identifying cars with bad drivers.
You will notice some cars with a large red "R" on them. That is to
identify the drivers as "R"estricted. Restricted is just a polite way of
saying Bad Drivers. Be cautious around them.
On Tue, Oct 22, 2013 at 6:17 PM, Alan Carter wrot
e:
> alancarteresq(at)onetel.net>
>
> Hi.All.
> Just a quick question to those electrical nerds out there.
> I have just installed a terminal block in my Europa, the two bolts that
> hold the terminal block are bolted through the fibre glass on the inside
of
> the instrument panel, nothing can touch the heads of these two bolts on t
he
> inside as they are insulated.
> I want too make use of there threaded length as extra terminals so my eye
> let connectors can fit down them.
> Odd maybe, but it would be useful if I could use them, fibre glass is a
> none conductive material , is there Any reason this would not work,
> Regards.
> Alan
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411147#411147
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Terminal Block. |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Alan,
It will work. Flight Design and a few others do it just this way. Make sure the
main bolt with the ground wire in the engine compartment that goes through into
the instrument panel with the other main ground wire is nice and tight. A less
than tight bolt can make your instruments jump around. Some use a long bolt
and just put the ground wire eyelets over them and nut it down, you could use
two bolts with a jumper if you have too many wires and Aircraft Spruce sells
a ground block that you can use that has spade push on connectors.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411178#411178
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Terminal Block. |
| From: | "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net> |
Hi Barry, Rodger.
I have posted photo so you can see what I am doing.
Basically I am fitting a Fuel flow meter to the aircraft, my plan is for me to
make up the gauge panel plus some illuminated switches and do all the cosmetic
work plus fitting all the components in place like the 2 senders and get it wired
up, keeping the plane flyable so as I can use it.
Then at a later stage get my inspector to come over, and finish off, do the fuel
pipe line work, flow tests, and sign it off.
As you can see lots of grounds wires from the switch LEDs, etc,
I can make about 4 or 5 lugs per terminal, this is why I want to make use of the
terminal blocks fixing bolts, and use them as extra terminals,
And yes they do fix into Fibre Glass,
I am thinking it will be all OK , but just to be sure but this post in.
Regards.
Alan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411226#411226
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/cimg1110_652.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clive Richards" <s.clive.richards(at)homecall.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Terminal Block. |
Alan
Not clear what type of terminal block you mean but if you are
using the fixing bolts make sure you clamp the ring terminals between nuts
not against the fiber glass.
As you are in UK Parts for aircraft sell busbar blocks with 5, 8 & 10
terminals. & aircraft grade wire
http://www.parts4aircraft.com/PBSCCatalog.asp?ActionID=67174912&PBCATID=1543515&PBCATName=Sockets,%20Plugs%20and%20Bus%20Bar
Are you using coloured aircraft or pvc ?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 5:47 PM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: Terminal Block.
>
>
> Hi Barry, Rodger.
> I have posted photo so you can see what I am doing.
> Basically I am fitting a Fuel flow meter to the aircraft, my plan is for
> me to make up the gauge panel plus some illuminated switches and do all
> the cosmetic work plus fitting all the components in place like the 2
> senders and get it wired up, keeping the plane flyable so as I can use it.
> Then at a later stage get my inspector to come over, and finish off, do
> the fuel pipe line work, flow tests, and sign it off.
> As you can see lots of grounds wires from the switch LEDs, etc,
> I can make about 4 or 5 lugs per terminal, this is why I want to make use
> of the terminal blocks fixing bolts, and use them as extra terminals,
> And yes they do fix into Fibre Glass,
> I am thinking it will be all OK , but just to be sure but this post in.
> Regards.
> Alan
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411226#411226
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/cimg1110_652.jpg
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Terminal Block. |
| From: | "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net> |
Hi,
Its a 10 pin terminal block, and yes I would bolt the eyelets up between the nuts.
I can see no reason why this should not be fine, all bolted up tightly together.
But I had this thought in my head.
It was just a thought that maybe not using the terminal block itself, but using
the fibre glass of the instrument panel may induce some electrical charge into
it, and make it more sensitive to a lighting strike, most probably not , but
just wanted to check it out.
As you mentioned "Parts For Aircraft", I like to give credit where credit is due.
I find Parts for Aircraft a very helpful and honourable company to deal with, and
would recommend them for any parts you may need.
Regards.
Alan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411265#411265
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sacha" <uuccio(at)gmail.com> |
Hi Listers, does no-one know the answer to the below? Any help would be
greatly appreciated!
Sacha
Kitfox IV, Rotax 912, Italy
I was re-reading the 912 installation manual and noticed that it recommends
a 30 micron fuel filter in the unpressurized section of the fuel system and
then a 15 micron filter in the pressurized section. My Kitfox only has a
gascolator.
Can someone recommend a filter to install in the pressurized section? Where
exactly would one put it? A filter with replacement cartridges that are
easy to buy in Europe would be a plus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE: fuel filter |
| From: | FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> |
Hello Sacha:
The Pressurized Vs Unpressurized locations is dependent on the installation
set-up you have. Basically the Unpressurized side is coming from the fuel
tank and the Pressurized is everything after the Fuel Pump. Do you have a
Electric Boost Pump installed? That is usually installed 'upstream' -
Before the mechanical fuel pump so - - The unpressurized is now BEFORE the
electric boost pump, which may have its own built in filter (Faucet).
I really do not see any reason why there should be two different micron
size filters. There are three requirements:
1 - What ever filter you chose it MUST be able to handle TWICE the maximum
fuel pressure.
2 - The micron size should be small enough to catch the smallest size
particle that could cause a problem. Since there is a
suggestion/requirement to use a 15 micron filter, I would use that size in
both locations. Why pass on a dirt particle from one filter and part of a
system further down and maybe into a difficult to reach part of the system.
3 - Fuel flow is dependent on a few factors:
Fuel Pressure
Fuel Line Size - Both Diameter and Length
May 04, 2013 - October 24, 2013
RotaxEngines-Archive.digest.vol-be