Zenith-Archive.digest.vol-dc
October 16, 2002 - November 18, 2002
Other then the Ray Allen Company and their $7.00 s/h for one simple part can someone
suggest an alternative? I looked at wagaero and they only have clevis
forks that accept 1/4 and 3/16 pins, not the 1/8 like I need.
Thanks in advance.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carlos Sa <carlosfsa(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | elevator trim tab |
What are the recommended dimensions for a recessed elevator trim tab?
I ask the question because many builders that installed a "vanilla" trim tab,
eventually decided to reduce it's size and/or increase the horn's size.
Of course, with a recessed tab, the "surgery" becomes a little more involved.
http://www.zenithair.com/pdf-doc/6-etr-trim.pdf
Thanks in advance for your input
Carlos
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Sharpe" <fly601(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator trim tab |
Carlos,
I built the recessed trim exactly according to the specifications (Pages
ETR-1 through ETR-4) and it worked out very well. Page ETR-1 gives
dimensions for the tab as 65 x 140.
The plans call for the servo and horn to be located near the inboard end
of the trim tab, but some builders have moved them out to the centre of the
tab. Mine is at the inboard end as per the plans and it works fine. Some
builders have complained that the tab was too sensitive but I haven't found
that to be much of a problem. Although the tab never has to move far, the
speed of the servo is slow enough that it isn't overly sensitive.
I wouldn't make the tab any bigger than called for in the plans as it
has plenty of authority as it is. I've flown the airplane at weights
ranging from 820 to 1190 pounds and C of G ranging from 23% to 29.5% MAC and
have never seen more than 1/2 unit nose down or more than 2 units nose up on
the indicator. (Full scale deflection is 5 units in either direction.) If
you choose to make the tab smaller you'll have more tab deflection and
reduced sensitivity.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Paul Sharpe, Guelph, ON
C-IABP / CH601HD / R912S
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carlos Sa" <carlosfsa(at)yahoo.com>
>
> What are the recommended dimensions for a recessed elevator trim tab?
>
> I ask the question because many builders that installed a "vanilla" trim
tab,
> eventually decided to reduce it's size and/or increase the horn's size.
> Of course, with a recessed tab, the "surgery" becomes a little more
involved.
>
> http://www.zenithair.com/pdf-doc/6-etr-trim.pdf
>
>
> Thanks in advance for your input
>
> Carlos
>
> Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Ferris" <ferret(at)wmtel.net> |
Is there anyone out there that would be interested in selling thier wheelpants?
I'm hoping to start with the std Zodiac wheelpants and modify them somewhat.
Please reply off-list.
Greg Ferris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Austin" <daveaustin2(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator trim tab |
Although my elevator trim tab is "too" sensitive, I've left it the way it is
because I want to be able to fly the a/c with it if the elevator controls
ever fail. Same goes for the aileron trim.
Dave Austin 601HDS - 912
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | alex trent <atrent7(at)cogeco.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator trim tab |
Is there anyway to adjust the toe in (out) on a 601 taildragger??
Trying to avoid anymore groundloops.
alex
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Mireley <glcompair(at)mireley.tcimet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator trim tab |
alex trent wrote:
>
>
> Is there anyway to adjust the toe in (out) on a 601 taildragger??
> Trying to avoid anymore groundloops.
>
> alex
Check out the following link for axle shims
http://www.groveaircraft.com/accessories.html
--
John Mireley
Great Lakes Comp Air
5020 U.S. 20 West
Angola, IN 46703
FAX/Voice Mail - 5173323127
Internet - http://198.109.164.162/glcompair
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | alex trent <atrent7(at)cogeco.ca> |
alex trent wrote:
>
> Is there anyway to adjust the toe in (out) on a 601 taildragger??
> Trying to avoid anymore groundloops.
>
> alex
>
> I see I am guilty of not changing the subject line!!
alex t.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Ventilation for 601 |
| From: | charles.long(at)gm.com |
10/17/2002 01:27:58 PM
I am presently building the NACA air scoops per ZAC plans. They call
for a 2" flange and ducting to transfer air to the passenger compartment.
I have located the 2" flanges at Aircarft Spruce but have not found much
info on Vents for the instrument panel. Any suggestions on Vents that have
worked well, panel locations, parts sources, cost, etc. Also noticed 4
choices of material for ducting. Is the cheap stuff good enough, or should
I be looking at Silicone impregated?
Thanks
Chuck Long, HDS - 70% complete
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Shirley Mitchell <slandwcmitch(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ventilation for 601 |
Check- vansaircraft.com they have the complete kit for vents, including the eyeball.
I am presently building the NACA air scoops per ZAC plans. They call
for a 2" flange and ducting to transfer air to the passenger compartment.
I have located the 2" flanges at Aircarft Spruce but have not found much
info on Vents for the instrument panel. Any suggestions on Vents that have
worked well, panel locations, parts sources, cost, etc. Also noticed 4
choices of material for ducting. Is the cheap stuff good enough, or should
I be looking at Silicone impregated?
Thanks
Chuck Long, HDS - 70% complete
---------------------------------
Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos, & more
faith.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Ventilation for 601 |
| From: | "Pinneo, George" <George.Pinneo(at)trw.com> |
I put the vents in the sideskins above the wing leading edge; they're reachable
from the left seat. I felt I needed all the panel space and just vent into the
cockpit at my knee. This works pretty well and is simpler and lighter than
ducts and eyeballs.
GGP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Golovich" <john(at)golovich.com> |
| Subject: | Wings coming soon |
I started the ordering process for the wings subsystem on my 801 today. I decided
against picking this one up from the factory, but will probably pick the fuselage
subsystem up in the spring.
Still waiting to find a technical advisor though. I have over 700 clecos tied
up in the skins of the rudder and tail sections and 10 unused one sitting in
the box.
Im attending a different chapter EAA meeting tonight, maybe I can hook up with
a TC there.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michel Therrien <mtherr(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ventilation for 601 |
I bought that kit (from Vans) and it simplified the
searching/building a lot. I got some advise from list
members here for placement of the vents and the
intakes.
See:
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601/chfwdfuse5.htm
and
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601/images/inst_panel_final.JPG
for details on my installation.
These days, you can also see the vents at:
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601/daypict.jpg
I have a strong feeling that I'll like this
installation.
Michel
--- Bill Shirley Mitchell
wrote:
> Mitchell
>
> Check- vansaircraft.com they have the complete kit
> for vents, including the eyeball.
>
> charles.long(at)gm.com wrote:--> Zenith-List message
> posted by: charles.long(at)gm.com
>
> I have located the 2" flanges at Aircarft Spruce but
> have not found much
> info on Vents for the instrument panel. Any
=====
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
http://faith.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronald Wright <ronwright5(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wings coming soon |
EAA can send you a list of all the TCs in your area.
Give them a call or send an email. You DON'T have to
belong to an EAA chapter to use their services, but
would be an added plus to the Chapter if you did join.
All these guys are volunteers and spend their time
looking at your project. Treat them nicely and
they'll work with you any way they can.
Ron Wright
St. Louis MO
--- John Golovich wrote:
>
>
> I started the ordering process for the wings
> subsystem on my 801 today. I decided against
> picking this one up from the factory, but will
> probably pick the fuselage subsystem up in the
> spring.
>
> Still waiting to find a technical advisor though.
> I have over 700 clecos tied up in the skins of the
> rudder and tail sections and 10 unused one sitting
> in the box.
>
> Im attending a different chapter EAA meeting
> tonight, maybe I can hook up with a TC there.
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
http://faith.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Wings coming soon |
One can also go to the EAA website. there is a page in the member's section
that you can search for a TC by Chapter #, type of construction, etc. I
think John has done this.
You can also use the free phone number listed in the magazines for
information about EAA. The person to ask for is Jan Streblow as she has info
plus the data bases for the Flight advisors, Transition Training material,
as well as the Technical Counselors.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ronald Wright" <ronwright5(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Wings coming soon
>
> EAA can send you a list of all the TCs in your area.
> Give them a call or send an email. You DON'T have to
> belong to an EAA chapter to use their services, but
> would be an added plus to the Chapter if you did join.
>
> All these guys are volunteers and spend their time
> looking at your project. Treat them nicely and
> they'll work with you any way they can.
>
> Ron Wright
> St. Louis MO
>
>
> --- John Golovich wrote:
> >
> >
> > I started the ordering process for the wings
> > subsystem on my 801 today. I decided against
> > picking this one up from the factory, but will
> > probably pick the fuselage subsystem up in the
> > spring.
> >
> > Still waiting to find a technical advisor though.
> > I have over 700 clecos tied up in the skins of the
> > rudder and tail sections and 10 unused one sitting
> > in the box.
> >
> > Im attending a different chapter EAA meeting
> > tonight, maybe I can hook up with a TC there.
> >
> >
> >
> > Contributions of
> > any other form
> >
> > latest messages.
> > other List members.
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > http://www.matronics.com/search
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
> http://faith.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Golovich" <john(at)golovich.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wings coming soon |
Cy has been very helpful. I also spoke to the people at the EAA (via phone)
and they indeed pointed me to the website.
Of the people I contacted on the website and that Cy helped me with, one may
be able to help me. Some did not even return phone calls. I can
understand being busy, but just ignoring 3 calls over a week is rude.
Granted the person could just be on vacation, so I will continue to wait.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Wings coming soon
>
> One can also go to the EAA website. there is a page in the member's
section
> that you can search for a TC by Chapter #, type of construction, etc. I
> think John has done this.
>
> You can also use the free phone number listed in the magazines for
> information about EAA. The person to ask for is Jan Streblow as she has
info
> plus the data bases for the Flight advisors, Transition Training material,
> as well as the Technical Counselors.
>
> Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
>
> Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
>
> Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ronald Wright" <ronwright5(at)yahoo.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Wings coming soon
>
>
> >
> > EAA can send you a list of all the TCs in your area.
> > Give them a call or send an email. You DON'T have to
> > belong to an EAA chapter to use their services, but
> > would be an added plus to the Chapter if you did join.
> >
> > All these guys are volunteers and spend their time
> > looking at your project. Treat them nicely and
> > they'll work with you any way they can.
> >
> > Ron Wright
> > St. Louis MO
> >
> >
> > --- John Golovich wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > I started the ordering process for the wings
> > > subsystem on my 801 today. I decided against
> > > picking this one up from the factory, but will
> > > probably pick the fuselage subsystem up in the
> > > spring.
> > >
> > > Still waiting to find a technical advisor though.
> > > I have over 700 clecos tied up in the skins of the
> > > rudder and tail sections and 10 unused one sitting
> > > in the box.
> > >
> > > Im attending a different chapter EAA meeting
> > > tonight, maybe I can hook up with a TC there.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Contributions of
> > > any other form
> > >
> > > latest messages.
> > > other List members.
> > >
> > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > > http://www.matronics.com/search
> > > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
> > http://faith.yahoo.com
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | alex trent <atrent7(at)cogeco.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator trim tab |
John Mireley wrote:
> >
> > alex
>
> Check out the following link for axle shims
>
> http://www.groveaircraft.com/accessories.html
>
Thanks, looks interesting.
alex t.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "PK" <pfergus2(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
> I really don't know. I purchased this a/c with 12 hrs on the
clock. I
> have the plans but no other info and I can't see anywhere that the
alignment
> is mentioned. After doing several high speed taxi runs to the point of
> getting the tail up and the a/c very light, I thought it a bit twitchy.
Alex- The problem was not in your alignment. If the alignment was off, you
would have picked up on it at the beginning of the takeoff- when the
controls are less effective. As the speed builds up the controls became more
effective or light, the aircraft become harder to handle (comparably
speaking). This happens very quickly and explains the " twitchy" feeling.
The notion of doing high speed passes in a taildragger...well that's just
asking for it. Please get some practice with an instructor in "any"
tailwheel aircraft- Then, when yours is all fixed up, and it's time to fly -
FLY - take off - once you have this bird in the air you will realize how
easy it is on the controls (hold stick with two fingers). Not like your
average spam-cam. Don't use toe in / toe out. That only works with spring
gear ( in theory to compensate for compression) Build em straight.
My two cents...
Peter Ferguson
N601PK
.................leave the high speed
passes for the air show guys.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Mireley <glcompair(at)mireley.tcimet.net> |
Alex;
I'd like to look at the argument for toe out. Do
you have any pointers for finding it.
John Mireley
alex trent wrote:
> The majority of my time is tail dragger, have owned a Stinson 108-1 ,a
Chief and a Cessna 170B. Took my training in a Fleet Canuck and a Champ have
been checked out and have several hours in the Piper Cruiser and the Cub so I
am fairly well experienced in tail draggers. I have been involved in 3 ground
loops, each time I was a passenger. The first ground loop experience was in
a military Beech 18 and it was the scariest.
> We are well on the way with the repairs, the new box is cleco'd in position
and the new fork is ready to bolt on. I would like to know a bit more about
the gear alignment and how it is done if at all. All I can gather from the
drawings is that you attach it so, and some measurements, with nary a word
about alignment. I intend to do a thorough check on the alignment when the repairs
are finished, but I don't know what can be done to alter it If it is not
satisfactory.
> I read an article in an EAA publication some years ago that gave a very
strong argument for toe out and its help in preventing ground loops. Made perfect
sense to me at the time. Another fellow has suggested a web site and it
gives some rudimentary info re: alignment and it is pushing an add on to shift
the axle. Might be how I have to go.
>
alex t.
>
--
John Mireley
Great Lakes Comp Air
5020 U.S. 20 West
Angola, IN 46703
FAX/Voice Mail - 5173323127
Internet - http://198.109.164.162/glcompair
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Mireley <glcompair(at)mireley.tcimet.net> |
Here is how I intend to set my tow in.
I've got two laser levels, $19 from Harbor Freight.
I will attach them to the outside of the wheels.
I'll measure the distance between laser beams at the
wheels and 10 or 20 feet in front of the plane.
Any comments?
--
John Mireley
Great Lakes Comp Air
5020 U.S. 20 West
Angola, IN 46703
FAX/Voice Mail - 5173323127
Internet - http://198.109.164.162/glcompair
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Grant Corriveau <grantC(at)ca.inter.net> |
on 02/10/18 08:16, John Mireley at glcompair(at)mireley.tcimet.net wrote:
>
> Alex;
>
> I'd like to look at the argument for toe out. Do
> you have any pointers for finding it.
Doesn't Zenith publish a gear-alingment document on their site that
illustrates using a long square plank across the edge of the landing gear
forks to check for proper alignment?
Grant
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | alex trent <atrent7(at)cogeco.ca> |
John Mireley wrote:
>
> Alex;
>
> I'd like to look at the argument for toe out. Do
> you have any pointers for finding it.
>
> John Mireley
>
>
I have the publication its just a matter of finding it. I would like to
read it again myself. When I find it I can send you a scan of the article, as
I recall it wasn't very long.
alex t.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gower <ggower_99(at)yahoo.com> |
Jeff,
In fact I have one of this size of tyres (not Michelin, a chinese brand
but same size). Is normally installed in a scooter very popular here,
is narrower. I have it installed (for test) in a rim, I can send you a
digital photo if you like to see it.
Saludos
Gary Gower
--- zodiacjeff wrote:
>
>
>
> >Tires are from Northern Tool (Formerly Northern Hydraulic) as
> follows
>
> >High speed load range C (745 lbs) tire and tube: Tire...P/N
> 12301-c168
> >(4.80X8 ) $19.99 and Tube P/N 12101-c168
>
> Someone once mentioned a scooter tire, specifically a Michlen 3.50x8
> with a
> part/model number of S83 or 583 - I can't read my own writing.
>
> Has anyone used these? I'd like to know if they're narrower in cross
> section than the usual trailer tire. The mounting hardware for my
> wheelpant
> brackets comes very close to the standard tire(s) where it penetrates
> the
> fork.
>
> The local Honda dealer didn't have any in stock.
>
> Regards Jeff
Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
http://faith.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Caithcart" <bcaithcart(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | cutting skins to size |
This question is directed to the 601 scratch builders on the list.
I have most of the internal components made and am going to be cutting out
some of the skins in order to complete the assembly of these structures. I
am going to start with the rudder, elevator and stabilizer skins.
My question is: Are the skin dimensions on the plans an "exact" fit or are
the dimensions oversized to allow for trimming? Should I be cutting out the
skins slightly larger than the plans call for?
Thanks,
Brian Caithcart
Saskatoon, Sask. Canada
CH601HD TD(scratch building)
corvair power
http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/default.asp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | alex trent <atrent7(at)cogeco.ca> |
John Mireley wrote:
>
> Alex;
>
> I'd like to look at the argument for toe out. Do
> you have any pointers for finding it.
>
> John Mireley
>
The article was in the EAA Aircraft Design series copyright 1970. I picked
them up at Oshkosh in 73 so there may be more arguments now. The gist of his
argument is that as an a/c tends to swerve off course the cintrifigal force
tends to put weight on the outboard wheel and if this wheel toed in it will
help to agravate the situation and if it is toed out it will tend to straighten
the a/c. I can scan the article if you like. He did some experimenting with
models and also
had some first hand experience with a J3. He says definately no toe in. Don't forget
we are talking tail draggers here.
The article is by Marvin Hoppenworth EAA 2519 and was writen in 1963.
alex t.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Bonsell <tbonsell(at)luxuria.com> |
Anybody know where to find plans for the Zenith bending brake? Looks like I
have some parts to make...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry C. McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cutting skins to size |
Brian,
Build your structure and jig it, then mark the skins
exactly to plan dimensions and cut larger by an inch on
all but the first reference edge you clamp and align to. (on wings, it's the
main spar)
Then match clamped edges in place, mark again for the actual edges you end
up with and cut last.
There's no "exact fit" for things that are assembled later.
This way, you only have to cut you're skins once.
If you're careful, and have both wings done, you can check both wings
with the first skin and then flip it and trace it if it fits both.
Larry C. McFarland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Caithcart" <bcaithcart(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: cutting skins to size
>
> This question is directed to the 601 scratch builders on the list.
>
> I have most of the internal components made and am going to be cutting out
> some of the skins in order to complete the assembly of these structures. I
> am going to start with the rudder, elevator and stabilizer skins.
>
> My question is: Are the skin dimensions on the plans an "exact" fit or are
> the dimensions oversized to allow for trimming? Should I be cutting out
the
> skins slightly larger than the plans call for?
>
> Thanks,
> Brian Caithcart
> Saskatoon, Sask. Canada
> CH601HD TD(scratch building)
> corvair power
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary K" <flyink(at)efortress.com> |
this is also the point that a recent Custom Planes (?) article makes on
wheel alignment. I can find that issue if you're interested.
Gary K.
----- Original Message -----
From: "alex trent" <atrent7(at)cogeco.ca>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 601 toe in
>
>
> John Mireley wrote:
>
> >
> > Alex;
> >
> > I'd like to look at the argument for toe out. Do
> > you have any pointers for finding it.
> >
> > John Mireley
> >
>
> The article was in the EAA Aircraft Design series copyright 1970.
I picked them up at Oshkosh in 73 so there may be more arguments now. The
gist of his argument is that as an a/c tends to swerve off course the
cintrifigal force tends to put weight on the outboard wheel and if this
wheel toed in it will help to agravate the situation and if it is toed out
it will tend to straighten the a/c. I can scan the article if you like. He
did some experimenting with models and also
> had some first hand experience with a J3. He says definately no toe in.
Don't forget we are talking tail draggers here.
> The article is by Marvin Hoppenworth EAA 2519 and was writen in
1963.
>
alex t.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | alex trent <atrent7(at)cogeco.ca> |
Gary K wrote:
>
> this is also the point that a recent Custom Planes (?) article makes on
> wheel alignment. I can find that issue if you're interested.
It would be interesting to have another view on the subject.
alex t.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rich Harman" <rich(at)modelstation.com> |
| Subject: | Number of rivets in 701 |
Hi all,
Could someone tell me please the number of A4 and A5 rivets in a 701. The
nearest 500 would do nicely.
Thanks,
Rich H
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LEO CORBALIS" <l.corbalis(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | TD wheel alignment |
I have a 601HDS TD 330 hrs. I aligned the main wheels by putting 1 bolt in
each fork. Get a brass tube the size of the axle.(hobby shop) line up both
forks by eye, put a bulb on the far side of one fork axle hole. stick the
brass tube thru the other. use it as a sight to align this fork. Mark and
drill the second hole. If its off a bit, file it to alignment. Then do the
other 2 bolts. (you still have 3 bolts holding alignment) Now do the other
fork.
DO NOT do tail up high speed taxi tests!! This is an invitation to a ground
loop! The gear doesnt't move in and out sideways when it is loaded so no toe
in-out.
Leo J. Corbalis
l.corbalis(at)worldnet.att.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TOMGILES(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Number of rivets in 701 |
My 601HDS took about 7000 rivets (not breakout by size). 701 would probably
be about the same.
|
___|___
/ \
======(_______ )======
________ | o |___________________________
__|______ \ ______ /______|____________________/*
][ ][ ][
{_} {_} {_}
TomGiles(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | alex trent <atrent7(at)cogeco.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: TD wheel alignment |
LEO CORBALIS wrote:
>
> I have a 601HDS TD 330 hrs. I aligned the main wheels by putting 1 bolt in
> e
> other 2 bolts. (you still have 3 bolts holding alignment) Now do the other
> fork.
> DO NOT do tail up high speed taxi tests!! This is an invitation to a ground
> loop! The gear doesnt't move in and out sideways when it is loaded so no toe
> in-out.
>
You have missed the point of the argument re: toe out. It has nothing
to
do with controlling the gear leg position and everthing to do with lessning the
potential for ground loops. If you are afraid to do tail up taxi tests you had
best not do any landings, as was mentoned in another post.
alex t.
>
> Leo J. Corbalis
> l.corbalis(at)worldnet.att.net
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "PK" <pfergus2(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | *Why* Toe in / Toe out |
Colleagues,
The aircraft that we fly ( 601s) are equipped with a gear mechanism that slides
up and down in a channel inside the wing. The gear does not deflect back
or to the side as it is compressed on landing. When the aircraft lands in a crosswind,
the upwind wing is held down and the corresponding tire makes contact
first. In the 601, the gear compresses ( a little ) in a straight line / straight
up.
Look at any Cessna 152 or 140. The gear sticks out and down away from the fuselage.
No direct support for the gear other that the strength of the steel sticks
sticking straight-out from the fuselage (spring steel gear). Now when this
aircraft lands in the same crosswind. The tire makes contact and the gear is
defected upwards and backwards. It's this backwards motion/deflection that starts
all the debates. The toe / in corrects this, but as soon as the other wheel
touches and the weight is equalized, the tires start to scrub. The toe / out
fans, point to the tendency of pilots holding a little (read this too much)
top rudder. This skus the track along the longitudinal axes. The toe / out corrects
this. All this is debatable. Good hangar talk...
OK net-net of all this is - Build the gear as straight as possible. You don't
need toe/in or toe/out..
Now, how do I put this, I really don't intend to put anyone down or discredit
their flying abilities. But I feel very strongly on this "High Speed Taxi"
practice. The facts are that the high speed taxi maneuver subjects the pilot
and the aircraft to unnecessary risk for an unacceptable length of time. This
is not a training maneuver! I recommend takeoffs and landings as a practice for
high speed taxiing. PERIOD ! Be Safe ! Nuf said....
Peter Ferguson
N601PK
Just in case ya got to know... CFIAI / ATP / Land and Sea / 23 years
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michel Therrien <mtherr(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Wow... I'm happy! |
Hi friends, there are some good moments where I get
more excited in building this airplane and this
evening is one of those.
After spending 200 hours designing, building and
wiring up the instrument panel (and the rest of the
electrical system behind the firewall), I can say I'm
pretty satisfied with the result. See the "picture of
the day" on my web site.
This evening, I turned off the lights in the garage,
turned on the panel lights, the Navaid, the radio and
the GPS I just acquired yesterday, and then I was
talking with myself in the intercom faking I was night
flying over Montreal! :-) Not far from being crazy
hey?
The only missing thing in there asides from the engine
controls is the transponder, which I should receive
within 3 weeks. I bought the Becker 4401 yesterday.
Several shops recommended me Becker over Microair.
The next step will be to re-install the firewall,
engine mount and then to assemble my engine (which
cost quite a bit less than my inst. panel!!!).
Thanks to all of you who often send me words of
encouragements directly or through my guestbook. I
had a down for a few months were I did nearly nothing
on my plane and web site... I should update the web
site eventually, but these days, I'm quite busy with
work.
Good night!
Michel
=====
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
Y! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your web site
http://webhosting.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Morelli <billvt(at)together.net> |
I removed my left wing Thursday and brought it home to extract my leaking
LE tank.
Yesterday I opened up the wing and pulled the tank. I can see fuel stains
on the cork where the tank is leaking. I will remove all of the cork and do
a pressure test to verify the failed spot.
Question is, would it be worth using a tank sealer inside the tank after
the tank is repaired to help prevent any future leaks. I don't want to go
through this again!!!!
How about some discussion on the pros and cons of tank sealer???????
Regards,
Bill (N812BM - HDS - Tri - Stratus - Vermont - 172.1 flight hrs. - 270
landings)
web site -> http://homepages.together.net/~billvt/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michel Therrien <mtherr(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: LE Tank Leak |
I looked at that quite a bit.. the conscensus, even
from Randolph is that if the tank does not need it,
don't slosh it. However, I was just becoming too
paranoid with my gas tanks and I decided to slosh
them. A friend of mine sloshed his tanks (4 tanks) 7
years ago and he does not have any problem. If you
use auto fuel, make sure to use the one compatible
with alcool (the Randolph 912 sloshing sealer).
Another word, the Randolph tech support guy told me
that if a new crack was to develop in a weld, the
sealer would be innefective in preventing such a leak
(it is not elastic to seal new appearing holes).
Then, the procedure to remove the sloshing compound
and reslosh would be quite tedious.
Michel
--- Bill Morelli wrote:
> Question is, would it be worth using a tank sealer
> inside the tank after
> the tank is repaired to help prevent any future
> leaks. I don't want to go
> through this again!!!!
>
> How about some discussion on the pros and cons of
> tank sealer???????
>
=====
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
Y! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your web site
http://webhosting.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michel Therrien <mtherr(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel design - night flying |
And your right. My panel, as nice as it is won't be
used in this configuration for night flying. In
Canada, to fly night VFR beyond sight of the runway,
we need a directional gyro. While the AH is not
required (unless if your an operator), this is one
instrument I would prefer to have as well. And if you
notice my panel, it is made to accomodate both
instruments... just last week, my airspeed was in top
left location and Navaid underneath it. The center
instrument spaces were empty.
The day I decide to put the gyros in place, I'll have
to put the GPS somewherelse (and I checked, I can
attach to the bottom of the panel if I make a new
bracket for it--and it would not interfere with my
legs).
Michel
--- "Richard D. Rourke" wrote:
> I prefer IFR equipment for night flying,
> but it seems to me
> that your equipment (daylight PLUS!) will do the
> job.
=====
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
Y! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your web site
http://webhosting.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel Pelletier" <pelletie1(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wow... I'm happy! |
Nice job Michel,
Hope that we'll see together the fireworks on a night flight over Montreal.
Daniel
>From: Michel Therrien <mtherr(at)yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
>To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: Wow... I'm happy!
>Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2002 21:54:43 -0700 (PDT)
>
>
>Hi friends, there are some good moments where I get
>more excited in building this airplane and this
>evening is one of those.
>
>After spending 200 hours designing, building and
>wiring up the instrument panel (and the rest of the
>electrical system behind the firewall), I can say I'm
>pretty satisfied with the result. See the "picture of
>the day" on my web site.
>
>This evening, I turned off the lights in the garage,
>turned on the panel lights, the Navaid, the radio and
>the GPS I just acquired yesterday, and then I was
>talking with myself in the intercom faking I was night
>flying over Montreal! :-) Not far from being crazy
>hey?
>
>The only missing thing in there asides from the engine
>controls is the transponder, which I should receive
>within 3 weeks. I bought the Becker 4401 yesterday.
>Several shops recommended me Becker over Microair.
>
>The next step will be to re-install the firewall,
>engine mount and then to assemble my engine (which
>cost quite a bit less than my inst. panel!!!).
>
>Thanks to all of you who often send me words of
>encouragements directly or through my guestbook. I
>had a down for a few months were I did nearly nothing
>on my plane and web site... I should update the web
>site eventually, but these days, I'm quite busy with
>work.
>
>Good night!
>
>Michel
>
>
>=====
>----------------------------
>Michel Therrien CH601-HD
> http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
> http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
> http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
>
>Y! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your web site
>http://webhosting.yahoo.com/
>
>
http://www.msn.fr/msger/default.asp
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Panel design - night flying |
| From: | Grant Corriveau <grantC(at)ca.inter.net> |
on 02/10/19 07:46, Michel Therrien at mtherr(at)yahoo.com wrote:
> I can
> attach to the bottom of the panel if I make a new
> bracket for it--and it would not interfere with my
> legs).
Michel, nice looking panel! For what it's worth later on - I have the
Garmin Pilot III gps mounted in its braket on top of the instrument panel
and it works well there - no obstruction to vision. Your idea of a braket
underneath makes a lot of sense to me too -- keeps it handy to your outboard
(throttle) hand.
Happy building,
Grant
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Flydog1966(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | leaking 601 tanks |
hey all. I'm new to this matronics thing. The recent Zenair news made
mention of leaking fuel tanks in the 601, and this is the first I have heard
of it. I am curious if the 701 has the same problem? Is it a design problem?
Weld quality? I am scratch building a 701, have the wing skeletons done,
trying to decide if I should make my own tanks or buy from ZAC. Does anybody
know what they charge for 701 wing tanks? Thanks, Phil.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AWilson62(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: leaking 601 tanks |
My 701 hrader tank leaked. I assume my wing tanks don't as i don't smell it
in the wings. The lead was so small I couldnt see it except for a small
varnish line. I just smeared a line of silicone on the seam. It stopped.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Benford2(at)aol.com |
I built some long range tanks for my 801 and after checking the factory tanks
and saw how bad they oil can I sloshed all four of mine. It is just insurance
and I did use Randolph 912 sloshing compound. There are several things in my
favor though. I did clean them out very good with MEK before treating them
and mine never had any fuel in them. I am sure that some of the horror
stories you hear about are from tanks that were sloshed in the field and
were not prepped correctly. As per Randolph's suggestion I have put in a
couple of gallons of fuel in them to keep the compound from drying out and
thats been over a year. There is absolutely no sign of delamination of the
sealer at all.
Also , when I press my thumbnail in the compound up in the neck area it will
leave a little mark so it is still pliable and that will seal small seepers
and any pinhole that might develop. I did talk to a tech guy at Randolph
before I sealed mine and he said 912 is a good product but he was instructed
by their legal dept to paint a less then rosy thought in customers minds to
deter those that are trying to save a junk tank. As he said " if this product
was as bad as some people say it is don't you think a company as good as
Randolph would discontinue it" Thats all I needed to hear !!!! Just
remember, if the inner surface is as clean as you can get, This stuff will
bond just fine. If you apply it to a dirty tank you should not be building a
plane anyway.
Just my two cents worth. Ben Haas 801BH.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <zenith(at)portouw.com> |
Hello all,
I wanted to introduce myself. Ive just subscribed to the list and am
expecting the arrival of a rudder kit for a Zodiac XL early this week.
Im expecting a very SLOW build because of job time demands, but have
concluded that I can no longer let rational thought interfere with
starting a project. Im at Fort Huachuca, AZ, SE of Tucson.
Larry Portouw
EAA Cochise Chapter 776
Sierra Vista, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Danielson" <steved(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | 601: How did you finish your horz stab and attach to elevator? |
I am just about done skinning my horz stab, and my elevator is already
complete. I am installing the fiberglass tips, and I am wondering about the
final assembly order (I have not yet done a test fit of the elevator to the
stab except when I confirmed the location of the piano hinge)
Questions: Does the elevator need to be attached to the stab before I rivet
the tips on? It look like the piano hinge wire might not be able to slip
through if the tips are in place.
Here is my proposed order:
Drill the tips to the stab. Measure and drill the tip support rib to the
stab end rib. Drill the tip to the support rib.
Take it all off, then reattach the piano hinge to the elevator (run the wire
through)
Rivet the hinge to the stab (joining the elevator to the stab)
Then rivet the tip support ribs and then the tip
For storage reasons it would be better to leave the elevator and stab apart,
but I never through about getting that wire theough with the tip ribs. How
did other folks do it?
Thanks
Steve
Wake Forest, NC 601 XL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry C. McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 601: How did you finish your horz stab and attach to |
elevator?
Steve,
Attach the elevator to the stab making sure that the elevator is short by
1/8" each end or the
tip attaching rib is spaced out the same. The hinge needs to be short of
the length of the elevator by a couple of inches and the hinge pin will flex
enough to slip it in and out with the tips on. Really, you need to be able
to
put it on and take it off a lot of times during attaching to the fuselage
tail, rudder etc. The rudder and elevator are in very close proximity with
each other and a lot of fitting goes on before they are actually attached.
Larry C. McFarland - 601hds @ http://www.macsmachine.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Danielson" <steved(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: 601: How did you finish your horz stab and attach to
elevator?
>
> I am just about done skinning my horz stab, and my elevator is already
> complete. I am installing the fiberglass tips, and I am wondering about
the
> final assembly order (I have not yet done a test fit of the elevator to
the
> stab except when I confirmed the location of the piano hinge)
>
> Questions: Does the elevator need to be attached to the stab before I
rivet
> the tips on? It look like the piano hinge wire might not be able to slip
> through if the tips are in place.
> For storage reasons it would be better to leave the elevator and stab
apart,
> but I never through about getting that wire theough with the tip ribs. How
> did other folks do it?
>
> Thanks
>
> Steve
> Wake Forest, NC 601 XL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 601: How did you finish your horz stab and attach |
to ...
In a message dated 10/20/02 2:39:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
bryanmmartin(at)comcast.net writes:
> I am installing the fiberglass tips, and I am wondering about the
> >final assembly order (I have not yet done a test fit of the elevator to
> the
> >stab except when I confirmed the location of the piano hinge)
>
You might want to wait to put the glass tips on until you mount the stab to
the fuselage. You can then be sure of good alignment of the two tips relative
to each other while having a rigid stab braced by the fuselage to work with.
Chris Carey
601 HDS N601BZ
Richmond, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Mucker" <matthew(at)mucker.net> |
| Subject: | Wow... I'm happy! |
Michel,
As always, your craftsmanship is clearly evident in your pictures. What
inspiration!
-Matt
> After spending 200 hours designing, building and
> wiring up the instrument panel (and the rest of the
> electrical system behind the firewall), I can say I'm
> pretty satisfied with the result. See the "picture of
> the day" on my web site.
> Michel
> http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff & Marcia Davidson" <jdavidso(at)fcc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 601: How did you finish your horz stab and attach to |
elevator?
> Questions: Does the elevator need to be attached to the stab before I
rivet
> the tips on? It look like the piano hinge wire might not be able to slip
> through if the tips are in place.
My horizontal stabilizer and elevator are stored separately. The are
completely riveted, except for the access plate to the trim servo on the
elevator. I have put the piano wire in and removed it several times to
show visitors how it goes together. I am able to thread the wire in without
any clearance problem. I did turn the hinge in opposite directions as
discussed on this list. I don't plan to safety the piano wire until it
goes in for the final assembly. The important thing to watch is the
clearance between the elevator and the rib inside the fiberglass tip, as
well as with the tip itself. There must be free movement and enough
clearance to not bind in flight between the elevator and stabilizer.
Jeff Davidson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff & Marcia Davidson" <jdavidso(at)fcc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 601: How did you finish your horz stab and attach to |
elevator?
Please ignore the part about reversing the hinge - turning it in opposite
directions. I went downstairs and checked. I only did that on the baggage
locker covers. Jeff
>
> My horizontal stabilizer and elevator are stored separately. The are
> completely riveted, except for the access plate to the trim servo on the
> elevator. I have put the piano wire in and removed it several times to
> show visitors how it goes together. I am able to thread the wire in
without
> any clearance problem. I did turn the hinge in opposite directions as
> discussed on this list. I don't plan to safety the piano wire until it
> goes in for the final assembly. The important thing to watch is the
> clearance between the elevator and the rib inside the fiberglass tip, as
> well as with the tip itself. There must be free movement and enough
> clearance to not bind in flight between the elevator and stabilizer.
>
> Jeff Davidson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff & Marcia Davidson" <jdavidso(at)fcc.net> |
| Subject: | Splice Plate 6V7-6HD - Riblet 6V7-5 |
Trying to finish up my center wing section today, I stumbled on an old
problem. There is significant discussion in the archives about the placement
of the riblet 6V7-5 at either end of the center section rear Z. However, I
simply looked at the 6V7-6HD splice plate plans and pilot drilled the holes
as specified - or as I thought they were specified. Now when I look at the
plans again, the dimensions can't be right for the rivet layout on that
part. The splice plate is a rectangle 80 by 95 mm. On the 95 mm side,
there are dimensions of 51 mm three times and 10 extra for edge distance.
This sum is more that 95 so I'm obviously not reading this correctly. Can
anybody interpret these dimensions for me? From the archives, it seems that
the riblet, and thus the rivet holes for the L support in particular,
actually can be placed in more than 1 location. And that makes sense. For
those or you that have installed this splice plate, did you simply ignore
the rivet layout dimensions on 6V7-6HD and just make it come out right when
the fuselage wing fairing 6E1-1 is installed?
Making progress. Jeff Davidson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alexander Birca (RMD)" <Alexander.Birca(at)rmd.ericsson.se> |
| Subject: | Number of rivets in 701 |
Hi Rich,
look to this site http://www.project-ch701.net/start_ch701/prices.php, you will find it very helpful.
BR,
Alex
-----Original Message-----
From: Rich Harman [mailto:rich(at)modelstation.com]
Subject: Zenith-List: Number of rivets in 701
Hi all,
Could someone tell me please the number of A4 and A5 rivets in a 701. The
nearest 500 would do nicely.
Thanks,
Rich H
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <thilo.kind(at)gmx.net> |
Hi Greg,
sorry for my late answer - spend the last couple of weeks overseas without
access to e-mail.
Anyway, I have the same unit and the same problem. The solution is actually
pretty simple: turn loose the little screw on the left side of the knob.
Don't turn it all the way out, just so the head of the screw clears the
housing. Now use the screw driver to slide the screw head to the left, away
from the knob. It just slides 1 mm or so. That will enable you to pull out
the knob and re-calibrate.
Good luck
Thilo Kind
----- Original Message -----
From: "Weston, Jim" <Jim.Weston(at)delta.com>
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Altimeter
>
> Greg,
>
> I had the exact same problem, with the same unit. I ended up replacing
the
> Altimeter, since it kept getting off while setting in the hangar, not
while
> flying. Kind of weird. Anyway, you probably did not back the screw out
far
> enough. If you get it far enough out you can then move the screw and
> internal latching arm to the side a small amount. This will disengage the
> arm from a notch in the adjustment shaft and allow you to pull the knob
and
> shaft out a bit. This then disengages the pressure reading from the
> altitude reading, allowing you to put them back into agreement.
>
> Hope this helps,
> Jim Weston
> McDonough, Ga.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Greg Ferris [mailto:ferret(at)wmtel.net]
> To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Zenith-List: Altimeter
>
>
> I'm having some trouble with me altimeter. It is the imported model sold
by
> ACS&S. The problem I'm having is that it mysertiously went out of
> calibration; the dial reads 3000' high. I've read some posts in the
> archives about this in which the little screw next to the knob is loosened
> and then the unit can be re-calibrated. I tried to do this, but wasn't
able
> to get the knob to turn the dial independent of the barometric pressure
> window. If someone that has done this could run me through it, I'd really
> appreciate it. Also, was doing this a short term or long term fix?
Thanks!
>
> Greg
>
> PS Flight testing is going well, but slowly. I changed jobs and moved so
> I've been away from it. I relocated the plane last weekend; very fun to
> take a little cross-country cruise!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Hole saw question |
Hi List,
I have to cut out a 3.25" hole in my canopy to put in a vent and the
manufacturer and another lister both suggeted using a hole saw.
My question is, in doing a test cut in some lexan I had laying around after
the hole was cut out the hole was more like 3 3/8. I have noticed this in
the past but always thought it was just me, and since those applications
weren;'t critical on size I didn;t worry about it.
this cust is size critical though and I was wondering if this "slop" is
something others experience or am I doing something totaly wrong? Should I
use like a 3 1/8 in hole saw (if I can find one) or use a 3" saw and sweat
out sanding the hole to size?
Any help or advice would be appreciated.
Steve (moving along again) Freeman
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hole saw question |
Steve- I suggest you get a circular hole cutter from Spruce. (page 480)
#4 cutter cuts holes from 7/8" to 4". Item # 12-10600 cost - $9.40. Works
well on alum wood plastic etc. Can be hand turned or put on a slow elec
drill. Its adjustable down to the nitty-gritty. Al Young N-601AY 25%
done.
----- Original Message -----
From: <STEFREE(at)aol.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Hole saw question
>
> Hi List,
>
> I have to cut out a 3.25" hole in my canopy to put in a vent and the
> manufacturer and another lister both suggeted using a hole saw.
>
> My question is, in doing a test cut in some lexan I had laying around
after
> the hole was cut out the hole was more like 3 3/8. I have noticed this in
> the past but always thought it was just me, and since those applications
> weren;'t critical on size I didn;t worry about it.
>
> this cust is size critical though and I was wondering if this "slop" is
> something others experience or am I doing something totaly wrong? Should
I
> use like a 3 1/8 in hole saw (if I can find one) or use a 3" saw and sweat
> out sanding the hole to size?
>
> Any help or advice would be appreciated.
>
> Steve (moving along again) Freeman
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Tellet" <telletdl(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Splice Plate 6V7-6HD - Riblet 6V7-5 |
Jeff,
I ran into the same problem. Here is the response from Zenith (as
usual, you have to read it a couple of times - or at least I did:
> Need a little clarification on the
> dimensions and hole distances on 6-V-7-6HD. Dimensions on Version 4
> drawings show holes 51 mm apart which isn't possible. I know that
> the one set is 86 from the end to correspond with the 1014 rib, but
> I'm not sure about the row next to this. Manual says 70 mm from the
> end but I just wanted to confirm this with you.
Sorry for the confusion.
1. 6V7-6HD, Change length from 95 to 96, remove 51 between
rivet lines, distance from RR5 to riblet=25mm. Replace L angle
with riblet see 6E1-1
The rivet line through Rear Rib station 1014 is 10mm from the O/B
edge. The next rivet line is 25mm from station 1014. Nick Heintz
Zenith Aircraft Company support@zenithair.com http://www.zenithair.com
I'm still not sure about the replacing the L angle with the riblet and how
that relates to the drawings which say to cut the flange of the riblet and
replace it with an L angle. I was going to ask them about that as well.
Hope this helps,
David Tellet
601 HD, working on center wing.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff & Marcia Davidson" <jdavidso(at)fcc.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: Splice Plate 6V7-6HD - Riblet 6V7-5
>
> Trying to finish up my center wing section today, I stumbled on an
old
> problem. There is significant discussion in the archives about the
placement
> of the riblet 6V7-5 at either end of the center section rear Z. However,
I
> > [snip]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ron dewees" <rdewees(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: One last Toe-in observation |
Hi List.
I have followed the ground handling thread for 601 TD models with great
interest as I purchased a TD project with the wheels already mounted. Every
time I walk by the weels, I get the impression that there is noticable
toe-out in the wheels.
It got to bothering me more and more and I set about finding a way to check
it out. I had gone thru about three or four plans for checking existing
alingment that included long pipes, lasers, tape measures, squares, etc. I
finally took a good look at the axles and noticed that you can pull the
cotter pins from the lock nuts and look thru the hollow axles. If you can
see from the outside of one axle to the center of the opposite wheel, the
aligmnent is neutral or parallel to the direction of travel. Hope this
saves someone some trouble as it is apparantly difficult to "eyeball" for
alignment.
Ron DeWees
601 HDS/TD Jab 3300 in progress
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: One last Toe-in observation |
In a message dated 10/21/02 6:06:06 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
rdewees(at)mindspring.com writes:
> I
> finally took a good look at the axles and noticed that you can pull the
> cotter pins from the lock nuts and look thru the hollow axles. If you can
> see from the outside of one axle to the center of the opposite wheel, the
> aligmnent is neutral or parallel to the direction of travel.
Kind of what I'm dealing with on my trike- HDS. This method will be fine IF
the wheel struts are EXACTLY parallel with each other..ie one is not mounted
further forward than the other. In my case there is a SMALL discrepancy
between the two..not so much that it gives me concern but if I try that
line-up method and arrange the wheel axles to be "even", then there will be
an inherent left or right turn built into the alignment..same problem exists
with the ZAC "board across the wheels" method. If one wheel is farther
forward than another, to make them "even" will result in a built-in "turn."
I wonder if at some level we are making an issue bigger than it needs to be?
Don't know, what is a critical degree of difference?...1mm; 5mm;
10mm...less, more?
Chris Carey
601 HDS N601BZ
Richmond, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "zodiacjeff" <zodiacjeff(at)email.msn.com> |
Took 22Tango to 12500 feet today and thought you might like to hear of the
performance.
Time from start of takeoff run to leveling out at 12500 was about 23
minutes. An experienced pilot would improve on this. I remembered
to get liftoff time on the clock but was so enthralled with the view at
altitude that I had to get the time off of the digital pixs I took after
leveling off.
Comparison of the time on the camera and the clock in the a/c showed them
to be within a minute. Hope so, just set 'em last week.
I held rpm to 2850 on up to 6K and had it trimmed for 85mph. At 6000 the
air suddenly became very, very calm and I flew hands off up to 12.5K using
only trim buttons. When VSI showed a decrease I upped the nose. Twice I
fed in more throttle as altitude took its toll. At 12500 the ASI was
showing 65 mph but the GPS was 73 at the time. In the mid altitude bracket
(6500 to 9000), 78 to 75 on the ASI was very strong. GPS showed almost
the identical speed. The 85 mph climb showed 88 GPS. No, the ASI is not
calibrated other than the one ocassion using Bill M's model.
At 12500 the Jabiru still indicated over 300 fpm climb. Had I oxygen or
experience at this altitude I would have tried for 14000. BTW, this was a
GA record for me as the highest I've ever had the Cessnas is 8K.
OAT was 55 on the ground, 46 at 6000, and 41 at 12500. I needed the heater
and it worked wonderfully. Now, my OAT probe is in the Jabiru airbox under
the hood and may read a bit high. I need to fly with another a/c and
compare
temps at altitude.
I checked the winds aloft before I left home and they indicated the High to
the northwest, and the Low to the east off the coast were pumping in low
speed winds from the east northeast. That's why I attempted to get some
help by climbing 060 to 080 and heading into the winds. I could not "sense"
a wind at altitude but the speed I got after leveling off certainly seemed
as
though it might be on the left rear quarter. A reciprocal run lost about
300 feet of altitude and was 6 mph slower, however, I did not get the a/c
stabilized for a very long time to make the check valid. (Do other Zodie
Rocket drivers find that it takes a while to get airspeeds built up and
stabilized?)
A check of the airport computer upon landing still had winds out of the
northeast (at 10K). Pennsylvania has only three "winds aloft" reporting
stations.
After leveling off at 12500 and stabilizing the speed/attitude of the a/c,
the GPS ground speed was very pleasing.
Regards Jeff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michel Therrien <mtherr(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Wow... I'm happy! |
Thanks Matt! What's fun with pictures is that
everything look nicer than in reality... but I'm still
quite happy with the panel and electrical system.
I'm more disapointed with my GPS 196 (or with myself I
should say) as I broke it during the weekend. I
dropped it in the stairs and the screen is broke :(
I'll see what my gold card insurance program can do
for me.
Good night!
Michel
PS: How's the progress on your plane?
--- Matthew Mucker wrote:
>
>
> Michel,
>
> As always, your craftsmanship is clearly evident in
> your pictures. What
> inspiration!
>
> -Matt
=====
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
Y! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your web site
http://webhosting.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | alex trent <atrent7(at)cogeco.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: One last Toe-in observation |
You may find the attached file re: toe out, interesting.
The pages somehow got reversed.
alex t.
ron dewees wrote:
>
> Hi List.
> I have followed the ground handling thread for 601 TD models with great
> interest as I purchased a TD project with the wheels already mounted. Every
> time I walk by the weels, I get the impression that there is noticable
> toe-out in the wheels.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | alex trent <atrent7(at)cogeco.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: One last Toe-in observation |
Sorry bout that, I screwed up, meant to be off list.
alex t.
alex trent wrote:
>
> You may find the attached file re: toe out, interesting.
> The pages somehow got reversed.
> alex t.
>
> ron dewees wrote:
>
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Austin" <daveaustin2(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Latex painting of Aircraft |
Has anyone any experiece of using latex paint on an aluminium aircraft? Or
can ref me to someone who has?
The July issue of Custom Planes refers to its use on page 66/67/68 and it
sounds fantastic! No cyanide poisoning, easy to apply, even brush on. And
far cheaper. But does it really work?
Thanks for any help.
Dave Austin 601HDS - 912
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Stout" <r5t0ut(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Latex painting of Aircraft |
Dave
I can't respond about latex paint, but I have experimented with polyurethane
boat paint. The stuff I have been using is Interlux Brightside polyurethane
paint, about $20/quart. You have to thin it and it's applied with a roller.
Since you use a roller, you don't need the breathing apparatus you would
need if you were spraying. I've been very pleased with the results, and
those who have seen it can't believe I did it with a roller. The boat shop
should have a pamphlet explaining the details of painting your "aluminum
boat". Interlux has a web site @ www.yachtpaint.com .
Randy Stout
CH 601 HD
r5t0ut(at)earthlink.net
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~r5t0ut/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Austin" <daveaustin2(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Zenith-List: Latex painting of Aircraft
>
> Has anyone any experiece of using latex paint on an aluminium aircraft?
Or
> can ref me to someone who has?
> The July issue of Custom Planes refers to its use on page 66/67/68 and it
> sounds fantastic! No cyanide poisoning, easy to apply, even brush on. And
> far cheaper. But does it really work?
> Thanks for any help.
> Dave Austin 601HDS - 912
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Golovich" <john(at)golovich.com> |
Can anyone pass me some tips in regards to the tail light on an 801. Specifically
looking for secrets to get the nuts stay in place. I tried epoxy, but that
didnt work.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Can you use nut plates? A little more work but very worthwhile. Another
solution is Rivnuts but that have a little thickness.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Golovich" <john(at)golovich.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Tail Light
>
> Can anyone pass me some tips in regards to the tail light on an 801.
Specifically looking for secrets to get the nuts stay in place. I tried
epoxy, but that didnt work.
>
> John
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry C. McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
John,
The trail edge tail light is one where nut plates are too wide,
rivnuts aren't that small and proximity to the circular body of the
light is why these aren't easy solutions. I had to epoxy a piece of 1/8"
profile matched
aluminum 1/8" thick into the tail light body that was carefully drilled and
tapped for these screws. It was epoxied in place before sides were attached
to the skin. After it was solid, the screws were inserted and tightened
with lock washers between light lens holder and trail edge body.
You can see pictures of it on the rudder segment of my site.
The body is home made, the light is standard, but the principal is the same
as the ZAC light. Take a shot at it.
Larry C. McFarland @ http://www.macsmachine.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Golovich" <john(at)golovich.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Tail Light
>
> Can anyone pass me some tips in regards to the tail light on an 801.
Specifically looking for secrets to get the nuts stay in place. I tried
epoxy, but that didnt work.
>
> John
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Caithcart" <bcaithcart(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | How many rivets in 601HD? |
Hello list,
I am ordering rivets for my 601HD. How many of the A4 and A5 rivets are in
the CH601HD (rounded up to the nearest 1000 of each)? I can get a deal if I
order them all at once.
Thanks in advance,
Brian Caithcart
CH601HD (scratch building)
http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/2monthsfree.asp
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How many rivets in 601HD? |
Brian,
Nick Heintz once emailed me the answer to this question, his response was
5,100 A-4 and 2,880 A-5.
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Dunning" <peterd(at)metec.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: How many rivets in 601HD? |
Date: 25 Oct. 2002
Hi Brian
My CH601HD required approx. 300 more A4's than
was supplied with the kit.
Enjoy the construction
Peter Dunning
CH601HD/6-3884
Wellington, NZ.
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Caithcart <bcaithcart(at)hotmail.com>
Date: 25 October 2002 09:52
Subject: Zenith-List: How many rivets in 601HD?
>
>Hello list,
>
>I am ordering rivets for my 601HD. How many of the A4 and A5 rivets are in
>the CH601HD (rounded up to the nearest 1000 of each)? I can get a deal if I
>order them all at once.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Brian Caithcart
>CH601HD (scratch building)
>
>
>http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/2monthsfree.asp
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Meiste's" <meiste(at)essex1.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How many rivets in 601HD? |
Same here.
Kelly Meiste
601HD
do not achieve
> Hi Brian
> My CH601HD required approx. 300 more A4's than
> was supplied with the kit.
>
> Enjoy the construction
>
> Peter Dunning
> CH601HD/6-3884
> Wellington, NZ.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry C. McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
| Subject: | Nose gear travel |
Hi List,
Does anyone know how much travel the nose gear actually travels
during landing when it is loaded with a Stratus engine? I'm trying to finish the
stearing slot seals and would appreciate guidance on this one.
Thanks for your help here.
Larry C. McFarland 601hds
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Morelli <billvt(at)together.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose gear travel |
Larry,
I have a tow bar collar that is mounted 4 inches below the nose strut
bottom bearing. This will also act as a stop should the bungee let go to
pervent the nose fork from contacting the radiator (you can see this on my
web site). The most I have seen the nose strut compress is about 2 inches.
I usually check this by keeping an eye on the grease mark on the strut.
That way I may get an early indication of the bungee getting weak.
Regards,
Bill (N812BM - HDS - Tri - Stratus - Vermont - 172.1 flight hrs. - 270
landings)
web site -> http://homepages.together.net/~billvt/
> Does anyone know how much travel the nose gear actually travels
>during landing when it is loaded with a Stratus engine? I'm trying to
>finish the
>stearing slot seals and would appreciate guidance on this one.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <etech(at)ucnsb.net> |
| Subject: | Free Panel Layout, No Obligation |
Hello Everyone!!
We here at Electronic Technologies in New Smyrna Beach Florida would like to offer you a free panel layout with no obligations at all. We can show you what your panel could or will look like. All ready have a panel and just need some equipment? We can sell you radios and other equipment at great prices because we are OEM with many manufacturers including Garmin, UPS Aviation Technologies/Apollo, BF Goodrich, Bose, Vision Microsystems, Electronics International, Chelton Flight Systems, TruTrak Flight Systems, PS Engineering, Kelly Manufacturing, Mid Continent, United Instruments and many others. We are also providing Four Winds Aircraft ( www.fourwindsaircraft.com ) with all of their panels, including their prototype panel. Just need a radio stack built? We can do that to!!! Want to build it yourself? We can provide you with all the wire, labels, equipment, wiring diagrams or anything else you need. Please visit our website, www.electronictechnologies.net , or email us at etech(at)ucnsb.net . You can also give us a call at the number below. Thanks a lot
Rick Case
Electronic Technologies
1501 Airway Circle
New Smyrna Beach, FL32168
(386) 426-1213
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Meiste's" <meiste(at)essex1.com> |
| Subject: | Nose gear travel stop |
> Just a thought, would it work to slit a short piece of heavy duty radiator
> hose and clamp it around the nose strut.
> That way if the nose bungee let go it would provide a backup to prevent
> the gear from bottoming out.
Russell,
I did that except I used a short piece of PVC tubing (same one used to roll
the front fuse skin). I just cut the tube length wise on a bandsaw, then
placed both halves over the nose gear at the bottom (tube ID fit perfect to
the gear leg OD). Add a few hose clamps and presto one easy stop, plus I got
rid of an excess tool.
I set my stops length to prevent prop from striking the ground if taxiing on
rough strips.
Kelly
601HD (still flies after 10 hours!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dhodges <dhodges(at)empacc.net> |
Hi Friends,
I need your input. I am just riveting my elev (701) and after doing
one side I notice that the trailing edge has some waves in it. I then
checked the distances all along the trailing edge and sure enough
there is up to 2.5 mm difference from the center to the ends. I assume
that I have overstretched the center part, and both ends are within
normal limits. I am profoundly depressed,to say the least.
Question> Do I poop-can the whole mess, order a new skin and figure
out how to redrill the skin backwards?? OR do I start from scratch with
a complete new elev ( my choice) and lick my wounds?
Has anyone else every cannned a section, and chalked it up to
education. I have already completed the rudder, and stab, and did a good
job, and the tech advisors agreed. Your thoughts will be
appreciated.....Down&depressed....Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 10/24/02 |
| From: | Greg P Jannakos <gpjann(at)juno.com> |
I'm looking for a header tank for my 601HDS.
Any available?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carlos Sa <carlosfsa(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator curve |
Dave, that's part of the learning curve.
I am building from plans, and every now and again something goes into the "rejected"
bin.
I am also building the elevator and stabilizer. A few days ago I was not happy
with
the fit of the ribs to the elevator skin, so I threw them out and made six new
ones.
I also made a bunch of doublers that I rejected - and eventualy found an industrial
bending brake to make good doublers.
Regarding your specific case, I suggest you give ZAC a phone call. They will make
a
recommendation that (if followed) will allow you to sleep in peace.
Good luck
Carlos
CH601-HD
See some of my mistakes here: http://pages.infinit.net/wings/zodiac/main.html
> Has anyone else every cannned a section, and chalked it up to
> education. I have already completed the rudder, and stab, and did a good
> job, and the tech advisors agreed. Your thoughts will be
> appreciated.....Down&depressed....Dave
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chesterman Family <chesterman(at)on.aibn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator curve |
Is it only lthe trailingedge that has a wave?
dhodges wrote:
>
> Hi Friends,
>
> I need your input. I am just riveting my elev (701) and after doing
> one side I notice that the trailing edge has some waves in it. I then
> checked the distances all along the trailing edge and sure enough
> there is up to 2.5 mm difference from the center to the ends. I assume
> th
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LEO CORBALIS" <l.corbalis(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Hi George
The ground lug replacement notice is quite old, mid 1990's. It didn't change
anything. So I hadn't developed an intermittent before I changed them. Yes
they are the ones that bolt onto the right manifold. I did something ! to
get rid of the 300 drop on one side but I'm not sure WHAT ! I have been and
to a lesser extent still have a HI EGT problem with the #2 EGT and #1 EGT.
When I put on the WOODCOMP Sport Prop I made things worse until I put both
needles to the #4 notch and got larger main jets from BING. The largest is
on the left side. During all this monkeying around, my excessive 300rpm drop
disappeared. I did some other stuff that I haven't fully evaluated and will
tell all when I'm sure it works.
Leo J. Corbalis
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Gary K. ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Gary K.
Subject: Mini Connector Pictures
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/flyink@efortress.com.10.26.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred or Sandy Hulen" <hulens61(at)birch.net> |
| Subject: | Date of manufacture on I.D plate? |
I'm ready to get my metal identification plate engraved. Regarding the line "Date
of MFG".... What determines this date? Is it the date after it was moved
to hanger and all the parts were assembled together, basically ready for the inspection,
or when?
Fred
Area 41 Snailworks
Zodie Rocket N-601LX
HAS BEEN MOVED TO THE HANGER AND ASSEMBLED !!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RoyN9869L(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Date of manufacture on I.D plate? |
In a message dated 10/26/2002 10:50:06 PM Eastern Standard Time,
hulens61(at)birch.net writes:
> Regarding the line "Date of MFG".... What determines this date?
Hi Fred,
In the real world of Certified aircraft that date is representative when that
aircraft receives a Production Line date and or number. In the case of an
Experimental aircraft that date is customarily the date that is on your
Issued Airworthy Certificate that the FAA or DAR has assigned. (Scheduled
Inspection date)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry C. McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
| Subject: | Throttle linkage |
Fred,
This has got to be an exciting time for you, in preparation for flight.
I notice you've used a friction throttle at your panel
and a 601-plan linkage at the firewall. I've followed suit
to that but cannot decide what is the best connection between
them. I have a .078 wire (collet type) clamp with 10-32 male threads and
will join with the forward link about 6" aft of the firewall.
Cannot make out from the pictures of a solution to choke what was done on the throttle.
Would you please elaborate on this portion of your throttle connecton?
I would certainly appreciate the help.
Larry C. McFarland - 601hds at linkages between panel and firewall
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle linkage |
Larry, Others have had problems with the wire breaking at the collet. Using
the cup washer and drilled bolt like it on Cessnas seem like a better way
to go.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry C. McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Throttle linkage
>
> Fred,
>
> This has got to be an exciting time for you, in preparation for flight.
> I notice you've used a friction throttle at your panel
> and a 601-plan linkage at the firewall. I've followed suit
> to that but cannot decide what is the best connection between
> them. I have a .078 wire (collet type) clamp with 10-32 male threads and
> will join with the forward link about 6" aft of the firewall.
> Cannot make out from the pictures of a solution to choke what was done on
the throttle.
> Would you please elaborate on this portion of your throttle connecton?
> I would certainly appreciate the help.
>
> Larry C. McFarland - 601hds at linkages between panel and firewall
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Semenuk <shsrv6a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | New Elect. Intl. Inst. Package for sale |
zenith-list(at)matronics.com, piper-list(at)matronics.com,
lancair-list(at)matronics.com.europa-list@matronics.com,
beech-list(at)matronics.com, aviation-list(at)matronics.com
I am selling at a loss the following. $3200 and
they're yours, including shipping. That's
$650 less than you'll find anywhere and it includes a
fuel level gauge that is not included in most engine
monitors:
Brand new, never installed or used, still in original
boxes (opened only to inventory) Electronics
International instruments as a package only. Purchased
earlier this year. All necessary sensors and
transducers, wires, etc. are included.
1) UBG-16 CHT/EGT bar graph including 4 cht/4egt
probes and 1 OAT probe. Room for
7 other temperature/parameter readings.
2) FP-5L Fuel flow and pressure with GPS interface to
calculate fuel to destination
3) R-1 RPM including flight time
4) OPT-1 Oil pressure and temp
5) M-1 Manifold pressure
6) VA-1 Volt/Amp with 50 Amp external shunt
7) FL-2 Dual fuel level for resistance (standard
float) senders
Steve Semenuk
shsrv6a(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Workshop Attended Rudder Built... |
I just got back from attending the ZAC workshop. For those of you out there
who haven't made that final decision yet I urge you to attend. If you have
decided to build I urge you to attend.
If gives you a chance to "work with a net" so to speak. I ruined a trailing
edge skin the first day and Sebastian tossed it and said no problem let me
get you another. They give you just the amount of help you need. They do not
hover over you until you've asked them too and then only until you get it.
I made a couple of mistakes and am glad I did. I got a pretty good idea of
what kind of error the design can tolerate and what it can't.
The best part of the workshop was flying the XL for the first time. For that
matter seeing the XL in 3D what really worth the 22 hour drive. The Jab
powered XL flew WAY better than I expected or hoped for.
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
N601WR
Rudder Completed, Rest of the Tail Feathers out of the box.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Pwalsh4539(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Workshop Attended Rudder Built... |
I agree...time and money well spent....if you are really serious...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LEO CORBALIS" <l.corbalis(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [ Gary K. ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
Gary I can second your choice of DEAN's plugs. 340 hrs. and 6 years with no
trouble.
The pins are gold plated hold tight without being hard to disconnect. They
are intended for RC model servos so I'd limit them to 500 ma. (1/2 amp.). I
have had excellent results with MOLEX connectors, particularly, when I wiped
some white grease or silicone grease into the face of the female connector
before connecting. My experience with them was in commercial use where they
were plugged in and operated for years. Without grease a few intermittents
developed after 5 yrs.
No grease in the DEAN's !
Leo J. Corbalis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Golovich" <john(at)golovich.com> |
I wanted to thank everyone, especially Cy, for the advice when it comes to the
Technical Advisor.
Patience paid off and I actually had 2 people call me back on the same day (after
leaving messages more then a week ago). I spoke to both guys and am meeting
with the advisor today who is an A/P dealing with heavies.
I think he is more then qualified to help me with my light sheet metal plane :)
I am meeting him tonight so he can review my work. I am so nervous that I can
barely concentrate on work. I am just worried he is going to make me scrap major
parts for things I didnt think were wrong.
Thanks again all
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Tech Advisor |
John, you'd be surprised how bad something can look and still be safe. You
can salvage many things just by drilling out the problem rivets and
re-riveting. Don't sweat it.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Golovich" <john(at)golovich.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Tech Advisor
>
> I wanted to thank everyone, especially Cy, for the advice when it comes to
the Technical Advisor.
>
> Patience paid off and I actually had 2 people call me back on the same day
(after leaving messages more then a week ago). I spoke to both guys and am
meeting with the advisor today who is an A/P dealing with heavies.
>
> I think he is more then qualified to help me with my light sheet metal
plane :)
>
> I am meeting him tonight so he can review my work. I am so nervous that
I can barely concentrate on work. I am just worried he is going to make me
scrap major parts for things I didnt think were wrong.
>
> Thanks again all
>
> John
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <etech(at)ucnsb.net> |
,
, ,
,
| Subject: | GI-106A for sale |
Hello Everyone,
We have an extra GI-106A that belongs to a customer for sale. Has never been installed
or used. Still in original box with install kit and install manual.
Customer was going to get two CDIs, but decided to get an HSI and a CDI. Customer
asking $1398.37 plus S&H. We can pre-wire for a small additonal fee.
If interested, please call or email.
Rick Case
Electronic Technologies
1501 Airway Circle
New Smyrna Beach, FL 32168
(386) 426-1213
www.electronictechnologies.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Golovich" <john(at)golovich.com> |
| Subject: | 1st inspection completed |
Wow, that was easier then I thought. The tech advisor came in, looked at my work.
Told me I was on the right track.
Made some comments about weight and how it all adds up. That was it. Nothing
had to be scraped.
In fact he said my sheet metal skills were very good. I am a fast learner, but
that is usually with suff relating to computers not stuff with my hands.
Thanks everyone for the help so far in the project.
Wings are next (arriving end of November).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken and Cathy Buchmann" <buchdvm(at)fidnet.com> |
| Subject: | oil cooler therostat |
I want to install a oil cooler thermostat in my rotax 912uls, it should be better
than duct tape. Does anyone know of a source and has experience with installation.
Regards
Ken Buchmann
buchdvm(at)fidnet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Benford2(at)aol.com |
Congrats John on your inspection. There are several of us 801 builders who
get together on Yahoo messenger and share building tips,ideas and mods. You
can find me at stol83001 on messenger. We sometimes meet on saturday mornings
and open a conference room and figure things out. On another note, don't be
overly concerned about weight on this monster as it has enough useful load to
carry a 601 or 701 on its back like the space shuttle carrier. Just follow
the plans and all will turn out great. You will find out that Nick and Roger
at ZAC are wonderful assets to building Zenith planes and they have ALWAYS
helped me through the dark spots. Ben Haas 801BH, Jackson Hole { where it's
9 degrees and snowing right now} Wyoming.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RoyN9869L(at)aol.com |
Hi Ben,
A couple of us on the East Coast are serious contenders for building an 801.
What is the web address that we can plug into to ease drop when you guys are
conferencing? Is there anyone selling? Cheers
R. Roy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Shay King" <shaking(at)eircom.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: Plumbing 912s/701 |
Dear List,
I'm putting in the oil and water lines at the moment in my 701 with the 912s, and
have a few questions for anyone whose done this already.
1/ The oil return nipple under the engine points directly forward. Do you turn
it around to point towards the rear to make it easier to run the hose to the
oil tank?
2/ If I loosen it do I need to use new copper washers when tightening it up
again?
3/ Do you adjust the angle of the water pump inlet bend when fitting the 912
to the 701?
[ It looks like one notch down might give a better angle for the water hose.]
4/ If I loosen the water pump bend is there any problem sealing it again, I
think it's got an 'O' ring in there.
Thanks for any help.
Regards,
Shay King.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Austin" <daveaustin2(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Plumbing 912s/701 |
Shay, no problems doing either the oil return or the water pump connection
changes. Mine sealed up on tightening and have remained sound for nine
years.
Dave Austin 601HDS - 912
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Benford2(at)aol.com |
Just load stol83001 into your yahoo messenger and ask to join my plane list.
There are 13 of us that chat and if you have speakers and a mic its a cheap
way of asking anything you want to all of us builders. Jim Frisby has
compiled the complete list of our group and he will post them here in a day
or so. Hope to chat with all you guys soon, Ben Haas N801BH.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Golovich" <john(at)golovich.com> |
| Subject: | Ford Engine conversion |
It was mentioned to me that you can convert a Ford V8 engine to work in an 801.
Can anyone point me in a direction to find some reference material on this so
I can begin my research. Cost wise it sounds to be a lot cheaper then a lycoming
or continental.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Golovich" <john(at)golovich.com> |
I am slowly getting my website up and running.
http://john.golovich.com/plane/index.html
I have added the pictures for what I have of the rudder and am adding the tail
section now. I still have to find my old pictures from the original work on the
rudder.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Golovich" <john(at)golovich.com> |
| Subject: | OT: Wives and aviation |
Any suggestions on how to get the wife more involved in home building or aviation
in general?
My wife loves that I am building the plane, I think it keeps me out of her hair.
But I would love if she worked on it with me as well.
Thanks in advance.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
John,
You don't need to put a clikco in every hole. If the skin is held tight to
the frame or bulkhead without a clikco, then you can leave it out. Using
every 2nd or 3rd hole generally will do the job satisfactorily.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Golovich" <john(at)golovich.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Web Site
>
> I am slowly getting my website up and running.
>
> http://john.golovich.com/plane/index.html
>
> I have added the pictures for what I have of the rudder and am adding the
tail section now. I still have to find my old pictures from the original
work on the rudder.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZodiacBuilder(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: OT: Wives and aviation |
In a message dated 10/31/2002 12:44:38 PM Eastern Standard Time,
john(at)golovich.com writes:
> Any suggestions on how to get the wife more involved in home building or
> aviation in general?
>
> My wife loves that I am building the plane, I think it keeps me out of her
> hair. But I would love if she worked on it with me as well.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> John
>
Hi John,
There was only one time my wife was interested in flying with me. It was the
time I was flying with my second instructor. He was a young handsome Swedish
instructor. Strange, she had my sister fly with us too.
That might be the incentive you need to get her to show interest.
I have to tell you, I no longer fly with Thomas the Swedish instructor.
Good Luck,
Do no archive
John W. Tarabocchia
http://hometown.aol.com/zodiacbuilder
N6042T 80hrs Flown.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <etech(at)ucnsb.net> |
, ,
, ,
,
| Subject: | Apollo GX-65 IFR Enroute GPS/Comm for sale |
Brand new unit, $2487.50. Install Kit and manuals included. Shipping and Handling
charges vary based on shipping method (i.e. next day air will be more than
ground). Other units available as well. Ask For Rick.
Electronic Technologies
1501 Airway Circle
New Smyrna Beach, FL 32168
(386) 426-1213
www.electronictechnologies.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cleone Markwell <cleone(at)rr1.net> |
| Subject: | Tire inflation? & Rotax |
1)On the 601; what is the proper tire inflation? The tire says up to 80#s.
At 40 they are hard as rocks. So what are others using?
2)The rotax 912UL is what I'm using and I have signed up to receive the
Rotax Service bulletins and have done the one where I replaced the rocker
arms. Now today, I received an FAA AD which applies to all 912 and 014s I
believe; and it is Mandatory before further flight. I have reviewed the
service bulletin and wonder what others are doing about this.
Cleone,
170 hrs 601 HD Rotax 912UL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott W. Hatten" <ScottHatten(at)columbus.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Apollo GX-65 IFR Enroute GPS/Comm for sale |
Do you have any used units..would like to change out a Loran-FlyBuddy....On
a Cessna 150 (1975)
----- Original Message -----
From: <etech(at)ucnsb.net>
; ;
; ;
;
Subject: Zenith-List: Apollo GX-65 IFR Enroute GPS/Comm for sale
>
> Brand new unit, $2487.50. Install Kit and manuals included. Shipping and
Handling charges vary based on shipping method (i.e. next day air will be
more than ground). Other units available as well. Ask For Rick.
>
>
> Electronic Technologies
> 1501 Airway Circle
> New Smyrna Beach, FL 32168
> (386) 426-1213
> www.electronictechnologies.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim & Diane Shankland <tshank(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: OT: Wives and aviation |
As a wife of a builder I can tell you that I have absolutely no interest in helping
Tim build his plane. I have bought rivets, taken
photos, carried various parts upstairs and down, and ooood and ahhhhhd. I can
hardly wait to fly in it though. I have no idea what would
motivate your wife.
Nothing would motivate me and I'm sure Tim appreciates that I'm not involved.
Diane Shankland
John Golovich wrote:
>
> Any suggestions on how to get the wife more involved in home building or aviation
in general?
>
> My wife loves that I am building the plane, I think it keeps me out of her hair.
But I would love if she worked on it with me as well.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> John
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Austin" <daveaustin2(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Tire inflation? & Rotax |
Cleone,
Chris Heintz advises inflate the tires so that they are 33% compressed in
static state. With my 601 that is around 28/30 lbs. He uses the tires as
the initial cushion for the shock of landing.
Dave Austin 601HDS - 912
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tire inflation? & Rotax |
| From: | "Pinneo, George" <George.Pinneo(at)trw.com> |
I've been flying with 35-45 psig in mine; a bad landing won't be made much better
with 28 psig! Take-off runs will be shorter with firmer tires.
GGP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Morelli <billvt(at)together.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tire inflation? & Rotax |
I have used 30 psi in my 601 HDS (Stratus) since the first flight. I don't
know if this is proper but it works for me. I have 272 landings on my
original ZAC supplied tires and they still have a ways to go before
replacement.
Bill
>1)On the 601; what is the proper tire inflation? The tire says up to 80#s.
> At 40 they are hard as rocks. So what are others using?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred or Sandy Hulen" <hulens61(at)birch.net> |
Jeffster,
I remember your comment about a stiff ride during taxi. Have you tried
lower pressures in this area? I would think it would make a noticable
difference.
F
> Chris Heintz advises inflate the tires so that they are 33% compressed in
> static state. With my 601 that is around 28/30 lbs. He uses the tires as
> the initial cushion for the shock of landing.
> Dave Austin 601HDS - 912
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carlos Sa <carlosfsa(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | decoding nutplate part # |
Hello, all
Could someone help me to determine the part number for the nutplate shown in 6V8,
"section B-B". It only says "nutplate diam. 3/16"; I see it is for a screw
AN525-10R-9.
Could it be AN366F-524 (page 87, A.Spruce catalog)?
And how about nutplate AN366-1032, on 6V15 (used on the cover strip) - can it be
a
AN366F-1032A??
I'm still looking for information on decoding these part numbers, but have been
only
partially successful... If somebody can direct me to some "decoding material",
I'd
appreciate.
Thanks
Carlos
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ford Engine conversion |
| From: | "Edward T. Jeffko" <riovista(at)bossig.com> |
John,
I think a stock v-8 will bust the weight restriction, especially with a belt
reduction needed to raise the thrust line and increase the torque to swing
a larger, slower moving prop. If you go after market, you'll probably have
10-20 grand tied up.
I built up an early 60's aluminum 215c.i. v-8 for a glasair project. With
the 1.7:1 reduction it's going to weigh 350# or so. A little on the heavy
side for a glasair but well within the 801 range. Also, at 4250 rpm the
prop will max out at 2500rpm with lots of torque and at least 150hp. I
think it could be an ideal powerplant for the 801. Next spring I have to
make a trip to KC , so I'll plan it around a workshop and pick ZAC's
collective brains.
Nice to see someone thinking outside the box.
Ed
Tonasket, Wa.
Looking to build an 801
> From: "John Golovich" <john(at)golovich.com>
> Reply-To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 09:56:21 -0500
> To: "Zenith List"
> Subject: Zenith-List: Ford Engine conversion
>
>
> It was mentioned to me that you can convert a Ford V8 engine to work in an
> 801. Can anyone point me in a direction to find some reference material on
> this so I can begin my research. Cost wise it sounds to be a lot cheaper
> then a lycoming or continental.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Stout" <r5t0ut(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: decoding nutplate part # |
Carlos
AN366F-1032A will probably work, the nutplates included in the kit are more
like the K1000-3. Basically you just need a 10-32 thread nut plate. For the
cover strip, you don't have much room. The nut plate is riveted to the zee.
I don't know how wide the AN366F-1032A is but I know you won't have any
trouble installing the K1000-3. Don't forget to order some 3/32 rivets to
mount them with. I used countersunk rivets.
Randy Stout
CH 601 HD
r5t0ut(at)earthlink.net
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~r5t0ut/
> Could someone help me to determine the part number for the nutplate shown
in 6V8,
> "section B-B". It only says "nutplate diam. 3/16"; I see it is for a screw
> AN525-10R-9.
> Could it be AN366F-524 (page 87, A.Spruce catalog)?
>
> And how about nutplate AN366-1032, on 6V15 (used on the cover strip) - can
it be a
> AN366F-1032A??
>
> I'm still looking for information on decoding these part numbers, but have
been only
> partially successful... If somebody can direct me to some "decoding
material", I'd
> appreciate.
>
> Thanks
>
> Carlos
>
> Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <rick.pitcher(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Finally got started |
Well I finally got started on my 601HD. I bought the project about a
month ago but had to finish up a couple other jobs around here before I
could jump in and start drillin holes. I got the latest blueprints and
manuals from Zenith and have been looking at them in my spare time for
the last week or so.
Monday I was finally able to put some spars and ribs on the work table
and start fitting parts together. What a blast!! By Tuesday I had a
pretty good idea how things were gonna fit and got enough courage to
drill all the holes in the left wing frame. Wednesday morning I took it
all apart, etched, alodined and primed the mating surfaces with a thin
film of epoxy primer, then shot all the rivets common to the ribs and
spars. I'm fitting the wing skins and stiffeners now.
This thing is going together quite nicely :) Here's a couple of pics:
http://lightflyers.com/Zodiac.html
I'll be reading this forum for advice and moral support... and I'll
share a few more pics as I get things put together.
Rick Pitcher
CH601HD 2% done
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ford Engine conversion |
To view a clean auto conversion that should work in the 801 check out
www.beltedair.com and note the home page photo credit.
Randy L. Thwing, Las vegas
> > Subject: Zenith-List: Ford Engine conversion
> >
> >
> > It was mentioned to me that you can convert a Ford V8 engine to work in
an
> > 801. Can anyone point me in a direction to find some reference material
on
> > this so I can begin my research. Cost wise it sounds to be a lot
cheaper
> > then a lycoming or continental.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darryl West (Home)" <rdwest(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Tire inflation? & Rotax |
Cleone: could you let us know what this AD is about, or at least what it is
called?
Thanks.
Darryl
rdwest(at)shaw.ca
http://members.shaw.ca/rdwest/index.htm
> -----Original Message-----
>
> 2)The rotax 912UL is what I'm using and I have signed up to receive the
> Rotax Service bulletins and have done the one where I replaced the rocker
> arms. Now today, I received an FAA AD which applies to all 912 and 014s I
> believe; and it is Mandatory before further flight. I have reviewed the
> service bulletin and wonder what others are doing about this.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Frisby" <marslander(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 801 chats Yhoo IM list |
Here's the list of CH801 builders in the group:
If you are building a CH801 or want to discuss them with those who are,
install Yahoo IM and add these names to your "friends" list.
Bill Wilcox (n801bw2002)
Butch(zenair801)
Dan McKeeman(danmckeeman)
Dave Zilz(z4t143)
Dirk Andrepont(d_andrepont2000)
Gary Liming (g_liming)
Guy Nickolaisen(stolch801planeguy)
Haiko Eichler(he801)
John Golovich(jgolovich)
Phil Owens (powens37)
Rich Bauer(zbldr)
Ben Haas(benford2)
Jim Frisby(n801za)
>From: Benford2(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
>To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: 801 chats
>Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 09:30:05 EST
>
>
>Just load stol83001 into your yahoo messenger and ask to join my plane
>list.
>There are 13 of us that chat and if you have speakers and a mic its a cheap
>way of asking anything you want to all of us builders. Jim Frisby has
>compiled the complete list of our group and he will post them here in a day
>or so. Hope to chat with all you guys soon, Ben Haas N801BH.
>
>
http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/2monthsfree.asp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary K" <flyink(at)efortress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ford Engine conversion |
Contact! magazine is a great source for all automotive conversions. There
was a website but it's not listed in the latest issue. No phone either but
there is a mail address. Great magazine and I've seen a lot of articles on
V-8 conversions, mostly Chevy but may be some Ford's. If you can't find any
reference in a web search the address is;
2900 East Weymouth
Tuscon, AZ 85716-1249
If you're stuck and really serious, I could look thru all the back issues to
find any articles on Ford V-8's.
Gary K.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Golovich" <john(at)golovich.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Ford Engine conversion
>
> It was mentioned to me that you can convert a Ford V8 engine to work in an
801. Can anyone point me in a direction to find some reference material on
this so I can begin my research. Cost wise it sounds to be a lot cheaper
then a lycoming or continental.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gower <ggower_99(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Tire inflation? & Rotax |
Rotax keep bringing out AD's our two engines are stil in the box (we
are building the first 701) for about 6 months and already have two
"repairs", including the rocker arms mentioned.
Hope that when they are ready to fly they are as good as they were
supposed to leave the factory :-) :-)
Rotax... Rotax... well, at least this are 4 cycle...
Saludos
Gary Gower
--- "Darryl West (Home)" wrote:
>
>
> Cleone: could you let us know what this AD is about, or at least what
> it is
> called?
> Thanks.
>
> Darryl
> rdwest(at)shaw.ca
> http://members.shaw.ca/rdwest/index.htm
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
> > 2)The rotax 912UL is what I'm using and I have signed up to receive
> the
> > Rotax Service bulletins and have done the one where I replaced the
> rocker
> > arms. Now today, I received an FAA AD which applies to all 912 and
> 014s I
> > believe; and it is Mandatory before further flight. I have
> reviewed the
> > service bulletin and wonder what others are doing about this.
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
HotJobs - Search new jobs daily now
http://hotjobs.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim and Lucy <jpollard(at)mnsi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ford Engine conversion |
Bruce A. Frank has a newsletter for ford conversions.
His email is BAFRANK(at)worldnet.att.net
I heard him speak at sun and fun. He is quite knowlegeable
on the subject.
Jim Pollard
Merlin Ont.
ch601hds
soob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZodiacBldr(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Subaru EA81 Engines For Sale |
All,
I have a couple EA81 dual carb long blocks I picked up from an importer.
These engines come 100hp from Subaru - they're not reworked. I'm selling
them for what I paid ($600 each). If interested in learning more, please
contact me.
Scott Bailey
EAA 639
Half Moon Bay, CA
sbailey(at)mandelcom.com
(650) 592-2728 eve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Benford2(at)aol.com |
Hi guys, I am putting together a V-8 Ford firewall forward powerplant that
will work in 801's, Murphy Super Rebels, Lanciars and other airframes. The
first one is being assembled now and will be on the dyno later this month.
This prototype will be powering my 801 and it is above and beyond what most
people will want to do. I am using a Ford Motorsports racing block. It is an
all aluminum 4 bolt main, iron sleeved assembly using ARP studs everywhere,
wet sump and weighs 92 lbs. This block is used in Sprint cars, Trans Am
Racers and Dragsters. It has produced over 1000hp and shows no signs of
weakness at all. In my configuration it will be in the 300+ HP range so it
will live forever.
Here is a list of my componants in this beast... Ford racing block 6010F302,
Edelbrock aluminum heads, Titaniun intake and stainless steel exhaust valves,
stainless steel roller rockers, Crane roller cam designed for max torque at
3200 rpm and max HP at 4000 rpm, Crane roller lifters, Ross 10.4 to 1 forged
pistons, Crower H beam racing rods, 4340 forged steel stroker crankshaft
making this motor a 349 cu in, Clevite 77 bearings all throughout the motor
except for the Ford Motorsports roller bearings for the cam main journels,
Melling High Volume oil pump, duel pickup MSD distributor hooked up to a MSD
coil switcher and two 6AL MSD ignition boxes with 4200 rev limiter chips in
each, there will be a delay box installed on one side of the ignition so from
the cockpit you can switch from 32 degrees total advance to 27 degrees
ignition advance which will let me run 100LL or Mogas, Weber 45 DCOE
sidedraft carb with 40mm bores and a mixture leaning device attached,
Stainless Steel exhaust headers. There is a bunch of other things that are
the best you can buy too numerous to list. This is all coupled to a modified
Belted Air 1.43-1 redrive because no one is producing a hefty enough redrive
for Fords at this stage. If Belted Air does not want to tool up to make these
for me I will manufacture them myself. This motor will be Dyno'ed at JB
Racing in Tavares Fla and any and all are invited to attend. 801's are
allowed 440 lbs firewall forward weight and this will be way under that. Once
I have a known weight I will make the aluminum block an option because it
alone is 3900.00 $ The racing iron Ford block is almost as strong, weighs 44
lbs more and 2800.00 less expensive. As of right now I have about 9000.00 in
the motor, 3000.00 in the redrive. Stay tuned for the Dyno numbers later this
month.
Ben Haas N801 BH.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cleone Markwell <cleone(at)rr1.net> |
This is for those who want more info about the FAA Airworthiness
Directive regarding all 912s.
"SUMMARY: This amendment adopts a new airworthyness directive (AD)
that is applicable to--912 series engines. This action requires venting of
the lubrication system and inspection of the valve train in all engines----"
Since I'm not experienced in the bureaucracy language I'm also looking
to someone else to figure this out. I have what the FAA sent me and I
suppose most of you will receive it also or can get it from their website.
It does say to contact James Lawrence, Engine Certification Office
Telephone 781 238-7176 Fax 781 238-7199.
Cleone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cleone Markwell <cleone(at)rr1.net> |
Thanks to all who replied. Cleone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Golovich" <john(at)golovich.com> |
| Subject: | Crossflow Engines |
Has anyone dealt with Crossflow and their engine conversions? When they say firewall
forward, are they talking complete firewall forward just put the cowling
on and strap on a prop?
They want 17.5k for the engine, are there any alternatives that cost less? I
would rather do as little tinkering as possible.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevindiehl(at)KevinDiehl.com |
Wow thanks for the info Ben!
This sounds like this will be a Great Alternative to the Lyc or Franklin I
was considering for my STOL 801.
Lately the only other engine that had caught my Attention recently, was the
ATP Turbine from ATP inc http://www.atpcoinc.com
Their Model 6.5 ATP engine can generate between 120 and 240 HP. the 14" x
30" power plant weighs less than 200 pounds, and will burn JetA, Kerosene,
Diesel and Gasoline, with JetA and Kerosene being the preferred fuel, but
the Price was about $30,000
2 cool Videos of this engine at
http://www.atpcoinc.com/files/Engine1Small.wmv and
http://www.atpcoinc.com/files/Engine2Small.wmv
The engine you described sounds much more economical, both with the initial
purchase, and in future maintenance.
Please keep me posted on the progress of your engine, weight, etc. as well
as when and where the Dyno run will be.
Any idea what fuel burn will be?
Thanks for sharing info on this very attractive alternative engine!
Kevin Diehl
Zenith 801 Builder
Kevin(at)KevinDiehl.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Benford2(at)aol.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Ford V-8
>
> Hi guys, I am putting together a V-8 Ford firewall forward powerplant that
> will work in 801's, Murphy Super Rebels, Lanciars and other airframes. The
> first one is being assembled now and will be on the dyno later this month.
> This prototype will be powering my 801 and it is above and beyond what
most
> people will want to do. I am using a Ford Motorsports racing block. It is
an
> all aluminum 4 bolt main, iron sleeved assembly using ARP studs
everywhere,
> wet sump and weighs 92 lbs. This block is used in Sprint cars, Trans Am
> Racers and Dragsters. It has produced over 1000hp and shows no signs of
> weakness at all. In my configuration it will be in the 300+ HP range so it
> will live forever.
>
> Here is a list of my componants in this beast... Ford racing block
6010F302,
> Edelbrock aluminum heads, Titaniun intake and stainless steel exhaust
valves,
> stainless steel roller rockers, Crane roller cam designed for max torque
at
> 3200 rpm and max HP at 4000 rpm, Crane roller lifters, Ross 10.4 to 1
forged
> pistons, Crower H beam racing rods, 4340 forged steel stroker crankshaft
> making this motor a 349 cu in, Clevite 77 bearings all throughout the
motor
> except for the Ford Motorsports roller bearings for the cam main journels,
> Melling High Volume oil pump, duel pickup MSD distributor hooked up to a
MSD
> coil switcher and two 6AL MSD ignition boxes with 4200 rev limiter chips
in
> each, there will be a delay box installed on one side of the ignition so
from
> the cockpit you can switch from 32 degrees total advance to 27 degrees
> ignition advance which will let me run 100LL or Mogas, Weber 45 DCOE
> sidedraft carb with 40mm bores and a mixture leaning device attached,
> Stainless Steel exhaust headers. There is a bunch of other things that are
> the best you can buy too numerous to list. This is all coupled to a
modified
> Belted Air 1.43-1 redrive because no one is producing a hefty enough
redrive
> for Fords at this stage. If Belted Air does not want to tool up to make
these
> for me I will manufacture them myself. This motor will be Dyno'ed at JB
> Racing in Tavares Fla and any and all are invited to attend. 801's are
> allowed 440 lbs firewall forward weight and this will be way under that.
Once
> I have a known weight I will make the aluminum block an option because it
> alone is 3900.00 $ The racing iron Ford block is almost as strong, weighs
44
> lbs more and 2800.00 less expensive. As of right now I have about 9000.00
in
> the motor, 3000.00 in the redrive. Stay tuned for the Dyno numbers later
this
> month.
>
> Ben Haas N801 BH.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nielsenbe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Crossflow Engines |
I just looked at thier site last night and noticed they did an engine for an
aerocomp compmonster, it was a 250HP motor. I checked the aerocomp site and
they mentioned the crossflow install and said the plane did not produce
enough power to get off the runway. They also said the owner was going to try
a diffrent prop but it never said if that actually worked or not. That is the
only info I found on them so far.
Side Note........Does anyone know of Aerocomp builders? I am interested in
the kit but would like to talk to some builders.
Brad
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Chapman <pchapman(at)ionsys.com> |
At 10:33 01-11-02 , you wrote:
>
> This is for those who want more info about the FAA Airworthiness
>Directive regarding all 912s.
> "SUMMARY: This amendment adopts a new airworthyness directive (AD)
>that is applicable to--912 series engines. This action requires venting of
>the lubrication system and inspection of the valve train in all engines----"
Sounds like it's going to be a repeat of the recent Rotax bulletin
SB-912-36 R1 that requires checking the valve train if there's been
anything done to the engine that might have allowed oil to drain from the
engine. (Roughly, this includes fully draining the oil system, turning the
prop backwards, or not following proper procedures when changing the oil.)
The full check requires a special jig to deal with the valve springs. I bet
a lot of owners will avoid that and just hope that there hasn't been damage
in the past. After all, the bulletin only requires the inspection to be
done if any of the listed events happened in the last 50 hours, or if those
events occur again in the future.
That bulletin also makes mention of updates on previous bulletins, which
need to be followed when changing the oil: SI-04-1997 R3 (venting),
SI-912-010 R1 (oil change).
Peter Chapman
Toronto, ON 601 HDS / 912 / C-GZDC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim and Lucy <jpollard(at)mnsi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Crossflow Engines |
>
>I just looked at thier site last night and noticed they did an engine for an
>aerocomp compmonster, it was a 250HP motor. I checked the aerocomp site and
>they mentioned the crossflow install and said the plane did not produce
>enough power to get off the runway. They also said the owner was going to try
>a diffrent prop but it never said if that actually worked or not. That is the
>only info I found on them so far.
>
>Side Note........Does anyone know of Aerocomp builders? I am interested in
>the kit but would like to talk to some builders.
>
>Brad
The first 801 had a crossflow engine and was wrecked because of
a bad design. Check it out carefully if your thinking about this engine.
Jim Pollard
ch601hds
ea81
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | 2002 List Fund Raiser - Please Support Your Lists... |
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http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dirk Andrepont" <dandrepont(at)charter.net> |
Hello all,
I enjoy reading all the messages on the list, but we "801" builders are
certainly in the minority. It's great to be reading about newer engine
options since our choices are more limited, it seems, than the 601/701s out
there. I am like some others that have posted....do not mind building the
plane, but really want as complete an engine package as possible.
Thanks again for sharing the info on Ford engines etc. I have read a little
about the Lycoming XP360 for experimental builders and am hoping by the time
I am ready for an engine, maybe there will be an affordable diesel
available( probably very wishful thinking)
Dirk Andrepont
Louisiana
dandrepont(at)charter.net
----- Original Message -----
From: <kevindiehl(at)KevinDiehl.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Ford V-8
>
> Wow thanks for the info Ben!
>
> This sounds like this will be a Great Alternative to the Lyc or Franklin I
> was considering for my STOL 801.
>
> Lately the only other engine that had caught my Attention recently, was
the
> ATP Turbine from ATP inc http://www.atpcoinc.com
> Their Model 6.5 ATP engine can generate between 120 and 240 HP. the 14" x
> 30" power plant weighs less than 200 pounds, and will burn JetA, Kerosene,
> Diesel and Gasoline, with JetA and Kerosene being the preferred fuel, but
> the Price was about $30,000
> 2 cool Videos of this engine at
> http://www.atpcoinc.com/files/Engine1Small.wmv and
> http://www.atpcoinc.com/files/Engine2Small.wmv
>
> The engine you described sounds much more economical, both with the
initial
> purchase, and in future maintenance.
>
> Please keep me posted on the progress of your engine, weight, etc. as well
> as when and where the Dyno run will be.
>
> Any idea what fuel burn will be?
>
> Thanks for sharing info on this very attractive alternative engine!
>
> Kevin Diehl
> Zenith 801 Builder
> Kevin(at)KevinDiehl.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Benford2(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: Zenith-List: Ford V-8
>
>
> >
> > Hi guys, I am putting together a V-8 Ford firewall forward powerplant
that
> > will work in 801's, Murphy Super Rebels, Lanciars and other airframes.
The
> > first one is being assembled now and will be on the dyno later this
month.
> > This prototype will be powering my 801 and it is above and beyond what
> most
> > people will want to do. I am using a Ford Motorsports racing block. It
is
> an
> > all aluminum 4 bolt main, iron sleeved assembly using ARP studs
> everywhere,
> > wet sump and weighs 92 lbs. This block is used in Sprint cars, Trans Am
> > Racers and Dragsters. It has produced over 1000hp and shows no signs of
> > weakness at all. In my configuration it will be in the 300+ HP range so
it
> > will live forever.
> >
> > Here is a list of my componants in this beast... Ford racing block
> 6010F302,
> > Edelbrock aluminum heads, Titaniun intake and stainless steel exhaust
> valves,
> > stainless steel roller rockers, Crane roller cam designed for max torque
> at
> > 3200 rpm and max HP at 4000 rpm, Crane roller lifters, Ross 10.4 to 1
> forged
> > pistons, Crower H beam racing rods, 4340 forged steel stroker crankshaft
> > making this motor a 349 cu in, Clevite 77 bearings all throughout the
> motor
> > except for the Ford Motorsports roller bearings for the cam main
journels,
> > Melling High Volume oil pump, duel pickup MSD distributor hooked up to a
> MSD
> > coil switcher and two 6AL MSD ignition boxes with 4200 rev limiter chips
> in
> > each, there will be a delay box installed on one side of the ignition so
> from
> > the cockpit you can switch from 32 degrees total advance to 27 degrees
> > ignition advance which will let me run 100LL or Mogas, Weber 45 DCOE
> > sidedraft carb with 40mm bores and a mixture leaning device attached,
> > Stainless Steel exhaust headers. There is a bunch of other things that
are
> > the best you can buy too numerous to list. This is all coupled to a
> modified
> > Belted Air 1.43-1 redrive because no one is producing a hefty enough
> redrive
> > for Fords at this stage. If Belted Air does not want to tool up to make
> these
> > for me I will manufacture them myself. This motor will be Dyno'ed at JB
> > Racing in Tavares Fla and any and all are invited to attend. 801's are
> > allowed 440 lbs firewall forward weight and this will be way under that.
> Once
> > I have a known weight I will make the aluminum block an option because
it
> > alone is 3900.00 $ The racing iron Ford block is almost as strong,
weighs
> 44
> > lbs more and 2800.00 less expensive. As of right now I have about
9000.00
> in
> > the motor, 3000.00 in the redrive. Stay tuned for the Dyno numbers later
> this
> > month.
> >
> > Ben Haas N801 BH.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Frisby" <marslander(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | HELP can't find right fuel valve |
Fellow builders,
I'm trying to find fuel valves for my CH801. I plan to use 4 seperate
valves for the four tanks. Each valve will be mounted at the wing root,
within reach of the pilot.
I purchased 4 valves that looked perfect in the catalog, but I failed to
notice they have 1/4" hose barbs and I require 3/8 hose fittings.
Please take a look at:
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/gotopage.php?page=222
The valve I bought is on the lower left corner of the page, part #FV-11118.
I'm hoping either someone knows where I can find a similar panel mount angle
valve in the next larger size, or that someone recognizes the valve and can
steer me to the manufacturer so I can ask if they make a larger one.
I asked Wicks who the valve was made by, but they said their buying staff
wouldn't release the info.
Thanks for any help you can offer
Jim Frisby
Palmer Alaska
N801ZA
Internet access plans that fit your lifestyle -- join MSN.
http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/default.asp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Thompson <rcav8r(at)chorus.net> |
| Subject: | turbines and diesels |
A big drawback of turbines is that they are THIRSTY!!!
With a 801 and extended fuel tanks, you'll still have a very short flight.
I'm still leery of diesels (weight and fuel availbility), but my
instructor is seriously looking at the deltahawk diesel (deltahawk.com).
John T.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry C. McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
| Subject: | Instrument lighting |
601 builders,
I'm looking at the lighting options for
the panel instruments. Does anyone have
experience with the type of lights that fit between
the instruments and the panel? Are there any
real preferences out there. The Cessna I fly
has a red lens flood light which isn't very effective.
Your opinions are appreciated.
Larry C. McFarland - 601hds
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Instrument lighting |
In a message dated 11/2/02 10:15:22 AM US Mountain Standard Time,
larrymc(at)qconline.com writes:
> Does anyone have
> experience with the type of lights that fit between
> the instruments and the panel
I have the fiber optic light rings on my 6 primary filght instruments. They
work great. The only consideration is that I wish they iluminated a little
more evenly. They tend to have bright spots where the light eminates and
then dulls as it goes around the ring. There is no problem with seeing the
instruments at night, it is only a cosmetic thing. They are light, cheap,
easy to install and work. What more could you ask!?!
Steve (stuck @90%) Freeman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument lighting |
> actually have a slight blue cast to them, they match the color of the superb
> right LEDs I put in my VDO engine instruments.
>
That's super bright LED's.
Bryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Instrument lighting |
In a message dated 11/2/02 3:03:30 PM US Mountain Standard Time,
SEAL2CC(at)aol.com writes:
> Fiberlites or some other brand
Fiberlites. They work well.
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Instrument lighting |
OH,
One thing to be aware of with these light rings though, is you might need to
get longer screws for some of your instruments. I ran into this with my
artificial horinzon, and it was a royal pain to find the right size screw!
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "zodiacjeff" <zodiacjeff(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | CHEAP instrument lighting |
UMA bezel 36.95 each
NULITE bezel 33.95 each
FIBERLITE 222.95 for "package"
All wonderful, all look great! Wish I could have afforded them.
I'm a cheapskate. J.C. Whitney "Bendable interior strip lights" - 36 inches
for 7.49. Various colors, I used white. Come with molded 3/8 inch wide lip
that is easily inserted under the split length of fuel tubing that you're
using as glare edge shield. Draws .03 amp per light, there are nine in the
36 inch length I have under the glareshield.
Another strip is hidden under the instrument panel to illuminate the
footwell area for night boarding - or when you drop the *)#@&+}! pencil.
For those who want to keep it inexpensive and simple...jeff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jari Kaija" <jari.kaija(at)pp.inet.fi> |
| Subject: | Project continues.... |
AT LAST! I can continue my ch701 project. I had a LOTT of other
work to do (last 4-months)... So, www.project-ch701.net will be
updated shortly...
Jari Kaija
Finland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tarrie Joniec" <tarrie.joniec(at)bifco.com> |
| Subject: | turbines and diesels |
www.deltahawkengines.com/ not deltahawk.com.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John
Thompson
Subject: Zenith-List: turbines and diesels
A big drawback of turbines is that they are THIRSTY!!!
With a 801 and extended fuel tanks, you'll still have a very short flight.
I'm still leery of diesels (weight and fuel availbility), but my
instructor is seriously looking at the deltahawk diesel (deltahawk.com).
John T.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Ferris" <ferret(at)wmtel.net> |
| Subject: | Really, really cheap instrument lights |
To illuminate my panel, I went to a junkyard and pulled a dome light out of a car
that had a switch built right into it. I inserted a red gel sheet (intended
to fix a broekn taillight lens) inside the clear lens. I made a bracket and
monted it to the center of the front hoop of the baggage shelf. Glare off the
inside of the canopy is somewhat of an issue, but with the light angled down,
it is ok for how often I plan on flying at night.
Greg
PS This was the most Rue Goldberg aspect of my plane :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jon Croke" <Jon(at)joncroke.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 701 door sills? |
Hi Zed,
Some comments:
At time of purchase I "upgraded" the plans and included the
> one-piece formed windshield.
> The Plans page is 7F19, Edition 4th, 06/2001.
You should ask Zenith for a set of the current plans, as my 7F19 is dated
02/2002 (yes they were updated again and published about a couple months
ago!) But, your older set does not affect this issue you describe...
This Plans page shows a frontal view of the door sill attached to
> the outboard side of the 7F12-1 upper cabin tube, but no mention of
anything
> attached on inboard side of the upper cabin tube.
I really scratched my head on this one too, as the photo manual shows a part
that is not documented in the plans, just as you described! But this is a
minor thing, and the 7F19-12D in the plans works just fine, one piece
mounted on the outside of the tube. I have not found any other such
deviations from the plans like this one.... I got a hold of the photo manual
after I did most of my building.... and of course a lot of builders built
w/o the benefit of that photo manual at all!
Nice to meet another 701 builder... there's a bunch out there, tho we dont
hear much from them on the list recently...
Good luck
Jon
near Green Bay
701 68.25% completion
www.joncroke.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dm10495(at)cedarnet.org> |
Where have the 601XL builders mounted the electric fuel pumps. Since I
have no mechanial pump they will be running all the time.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin(at)comcast.net> |
>
> Where have the 601XL builders mounted the electric fuel pumps. Since I
> have no mechanial pump they will be running all the time.
>
I've got mine mounted on the heel support under the rudder cables just ahead
of the gascolater. This should provide gravity feed to the intake of the
pumps. I plan on putting sound insulation around the rudder cable enclosure
and over the cabin floor so any noise the pumps make shouldn't be an issue.
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
Wings, tail, fuselage and canopy done, wheels and tail mounted.
Working on instrument panel and electrical.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Golovich" <john(at)golovich.com> |
Has anything new happened with the homebuilt twin yet?
I saw this last night and it is exactly what I am looking for once I finish the
801 up.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Golovich" <john(at)golovich.com> |
Can anoyone provide me some good websites for painting my 801? A gentleman on
this list sent me some pictures of his and he was painting each subsection as
it is completed. I figured I would try and accomplish the same thing. I realize
I will probably need to do some touch up painting when it is all done.
I am going to do some web searches, but any help others can provide, it is appreciated.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Morgan Wadsworth" <mwadsworth(at)factory53.com> |
Has anyone given thought to using the Mazda rotary engines??? There are lots
flying now, and getting these engines ready for flight is becoming super
simple.
http://www.rotaryaviation.com is the place that can get you started.
These engines are light and can put out a ton of hp....
Just a thought!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
kevindiehl(at)KevinDiehl.com
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Ford V-8
Wow thanks for the info Ben!
This sounds like this will be a Great Alternative to the Lyc or Franklin I
was considering for my STOL 801.
Lately the only other engine that had caught my Attention recently, was the
ATP Turbine from ATP inc http://www.atpcoinc.com
Their Model 6.5 ATP engine can generate between 120 and 240 HP. the 14" x
30" power plant weighs less than 200 pounds, and will burn JetA, Kerosene,
Diesel and Gasoline, with JetA and Kerosene being the preferred fuel, but
the Price was about $30,000
2 cool Videos of this engine at
http://www.atpcoinc.com/files/Engine1Small.wmv and
http://www.atpcoinc.com/files/Engine2Small.wmv
The engine you described sounds much more economical, both with the initial
purchase, and in future maintenance.
Please keep me posted on the progress of your engine, weight, etc. as well
as when and where the Dyno run will be.
Any idea what fuel burn will be?
Thanks for sharing info on this very attractive alternative engine!
Kevin Diehl
Zenith 801 Builder
Kevin(at)KevinDiehl.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Benford2(at)aol.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Ford V-8
>
> Hi guys, I am putting together a V-8 Ford firewall forward powerplant that
> will work in 801's, Murphy Super Rebels, Lanciars and other airframes. The
> first one is being assembled now and will be on the dyno later this month.
> This prototype will be powering my 801 and it is above and beyond what
most
> people will want to do. I am using a Ford Motorsports racing block. It is
an
> all aluminum 4 bolt main, iron sleeved assembly using ARP studs
everywhere,
> wet sump and weighs 92 lbs. This block is used in Sprint cars, Trans Am
> Racers and Dragsters. It has produced over 1000hp and shows no signs of
> weakness at all. In my configuration it will be in the 300+ HP range so it
> will live forever.
>
> Here is a list of my componants in this beast... Ford racing block
6010F302,
> Edelbrock aluminum heads, Titaniun intake and stainless steel exhaust
valves,
> stainless steel roller rockers, Crane roller cam designed for max torque
at
> 3200 rpm and max HP at 4000 rpm, Crane roller lifters, Ross 10.4 to 1
forged
> pistons, Crower H beam racing rods, 4340 forged steel stroker crankshaft
> making this motor a 349 cu in, Clevite 77 bearings all throughout the
motor
> except for the Ford Motorsports roller bearings for the cam main journels,
> Melling High Volume oil pump, duel pickup MSD distributor hooked up to a
MSD
> coil switcher and two 6AL MSD ignition boxes with 4200 rev limiter chips
in
> each, there will be a delay box installed on one side of the ignition so
from
> the cockpit you can switch from 32 degrees total advance to 27 degrees
> ignition advance which will let me run 100LL or Mogas, Weber 45 DCOE
> sidedraft carb with 40mm bores and a mixture leaning device attached,
> Stainless Steel exhaust headers. There is a bunch of other things that are
> the best you can buy too numerous to list. This is all coupled to a
modified
> Belted Air 1.43-1 redrive because no one is producing a hefty enough
redrive
> for Fords at this stage. If Belted Air does not want to tool up to make
these
> for me I will manufacture them myself. This motor will be Dyno'ed at JB
> Racing in Tavares Fla and any and all are invited to attend. 801's are
> allowed 440 lbs firewall forward weight and this will be way under that.
Once
> I have a known weight I will make the aluminum block an option because it
> alone is 3900.00 $ The racing iron Ford block is almost as strong, weighs
44
> lbs more and 2800.00 less expensive. As of right now I have about 9000.00
in
> the motor, 3000.00 in the redrive. Stay tuned for the Dyno numbers later
this
> month.
>
> Ben Haas N801 BH.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Liming <gary(at)liming.org> |
Speaking of fuel pumps, at least the "boost" or electric fuel pumps, like
the Facet 40105 pump, I am confused. According to the way that is plumbed
for the 801, there is a manifold that it goes into that also is connected
to the pressure side of mech fuel pump, which would indicate to me that a
check valve is needed. I called Nick, who said that the 40105 has a check
valve built in. While I was ordering one from AS&S, they said a check
valve was not built in.
Anyone know if the 40105 type pump has a built in check valve?
Thanks,
Gary Liming
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dave" <dave(at)netbase.net> |
I mounted mine same as bryan( in main fuel line,on heel plate ahead of gascolator)
works great and not that loud once it has picked up prime
dave(at)netbase.net
XL C-FDSF Waiting for flite permit(this week i hope)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin(at)comcast.net> |
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Liming <gary(at)liming.org>
Date: Monday, November 4, 2002 3:33 pm
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: fuel pumps
>
>
> the Facet 40105 pump, I am confused. According to the way that is
> plumbed
> for the 801, there is a manifold that it goes into that also is
> connected
> to the pressure side of mech fuel pump, which would indicate to me
> that a
> check valve is needed. I called Nick, who said that the 40105 has
> a check
> valve built in. While I was ordering one from AS&S, they said a
> check
> valve was not built in.
>
> Anyone know if the 40105 type pump has a built in check valve?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gary Liming
>
For those with the Subaru engine, which has no engine driven pump, two
facet pumps are used in parallel. The pressure side of both pumps feed
into a tee fitting with the outlet of the tee seading to the carbs. I
haven't heard of anyone having problems with this arrangement. The
Facet pump is basically two check valves with a pump chamber in
between. I know it is hard to blow air backwards through these pumps,
it would probably be even harder to pump liquid backwards through them.
Another thing to consider: Nick is an engineer and has built a few of
these airplanes and the person you talked to at AS&S is probably just a
salesman trying to sell you a check valve.
Bryan Martin
CH601 XL 90%
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Townsend" <mark.townsend(at)sympatico.ca> |
Once again the Gemini 630 (redesign to be a 3 seater) is on the backburner
as a new design is in the works and should see the light of day next fall?
Check the archives and you'll know more!
Mark Townsend
601XL EA-82 MPFI Turbo
-----Original Message-----
From: John Golovich <john(at)golovich.com>
Date: Monday, November 04, 2002 12:00 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Gemeni 640
>
>Has anything new happened with the homebuilt twin yet?
>
>I saw this last night and it is exactly what I am looking for once I finish
the 801 up.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 11/4/02 3:48:10 PM Eastern Standard Time, dave(at)netbase.net
writes:
> I mounted mine same as bryan( in main fuel line,on heel plate ahead of
> gascolator)
>
So does this imply that you only used one of the two Facet 40105 pumps and it
is AFTER any T-connection or tank switch that joins multiple tanks? No pumps
at / near the tanks?
I hadn't even thought of that, I was planning to mount the two pumps just
inboard of my LE tanks (no header tank)
Thanks,
Chris Carey
N601BZ
601 HDS Jabiru 3300; wings test fit soon
Richmond, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin(at)comcast.net> |
----- Original Message -----
From: SEAL2CC(at)aol.com
Date: Monday, November 4, 2002 5:12 pm
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Fuel pumps
>
> In a message dated 11/4/02 3:48:10 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> dave(at)netbase.net
> writes:
>
> > I mounted mine same as bryan( in main fuel line,on heel plate
> ahead of
> > gascolator)
> >
>
> So does this imply that you only used one of the two Facet 40105
> pumps and it
> is AFTER any T-connection or tank switch that joins multiple
> tanks? No pumps
> at / near the tanks?
>
> I hadn't even thought of that, I was planning to mount the two
> pumps just
> inboard of my LE tanks (no header tank)
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chris Carey
> N601BZ
> 601 HDS Jabiru 3300; wings test fit soon
> Richmond, VA
>
I have 3/8 OD aluminum tube from each tank to the shut off valve for
that tank in the cabin just ahead of the spar. I have rubber fuel line
from each shut off valve to a tee at the inlet to the gascolator. The
fuel lines slope downward from the tanks all the way to the gascolater
(the wng dihedral halps here). At the outlet of the gascolater, two
rubber fuel lines leat to two facet fuel pumps mounted on the heel
support. These lines lead uphill about two inches and froward about six
inches. Under most conditions I should still have gravity feed to the
pump inlets. After the pumps, the lines feed back into a tee and one
ruber line will lead through the firewall to my fuel filter and then to
my pressure sender. Then there will be another tee to feed fuel to each
carburetor. I chose not to use the mechanical "boost" guage sent with
the kit. I bought an electrical pressure guage from Jegs.com for about
$60; A Holley brand guage that almost matches the VDO guages. My fuel
system layout pretty much matches the diagram in the 601 construction
drawings. It also pretty much follows the drawing supplied with the
Stratus engine except I put the filter after the pumps where it belongs.
Bryan Martin
601 XL 90% complete.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don" <grandpanma(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Partial 601HDS For Sale |
Hi List, ***** UPDATE *****
*** PRICE REDUCED AGAIN ***
Still have my Partial Kit FOR SALE. $4995.00 or any "Reasonable
Offer."
*********** MUST SELL ************
Get a head start or add cheaply to what you already have.
My financial situation has changed and I can no longer afford to
continue building.
I started out building the 601HDS Rudder in the factory weekend
workshop, brought the "Tail kit" home with me. Finished the "Tail kit",
now was working on the "Wing kit".
I only finished the skeleton of one wing, that's where I stopped.
Must sell what I have.
Drawings & Manuals: (stays with kit) $340.00
Complete Tail Kit W/flush electric trim tab:(Finished) 1495.00
Wing & Aileron Kit: (finished skeleton of one wing) 4580.00
Leading Edge fuel tank kit: 875.00
Navigation/strobe light Kit: ** SOLD **
____________
Total: 7280.00
Have a few EXTRA parts I will include.
Will sell at a very reasonable price: ---- Around ---- $4995.00 or
"a reasonable offer".
My E-mail Address is: grandpanma(at)earthlink.net
I live in Puckett, MS. That's about 25 miles south/east of Jackson, MS.
My phone No. 601-591-1589
Sincerely,
Donald Vough Jr.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | New List Digest Feature!! [Please Read] |
Dear Listers,
I've added a new feature to the Digest format of the Lists tonight. At the
top of each digest you will find a new Index Listing of all of the messages
found within that Digest including the Message Number, Subject, Poster, and
Time of Day posted.
I've also added a "Message Number" header to each message within the Digest
so that its easy to find 'just the message' you were looking for!
Sorry for the double posting of the digests tonight - the first time I
didn't quite have the code right and a few "bogus" entries made it into the
Index. I went ahead and reposted the Digest so that everyone could see how
the Index-to-Message mapping really worked.
Special 'thanks' to Gary Hall for not only suggesting a Digest Index, but
also supplying a few samples on how it might look. Gary, I think you'll be
quite pleased with the format!
Don't forget that were right in the middle of this year's List Fund Raiser
and if you haven't already made your Contribution, you own it to yourself
to check out the great free Gifts that are available this year with your
qualifying Contribution.
The Lists are operated completely though the support of it members, and so
its up to YOU to get that credit card out and make that $20, $30, or $50
show of support for the continued operation of the Lists.
Won't you take a couple of minutes and make a quick Contribution on the all
new, streamlined List Support web site? I've also added a
Payment-through-PayPal option this year, and this is proving a very popular
method of payment. Don't forget to check out the great free gifts you can
get with a qualifying Contribution this year. I can't believe how popular
they've been this year! Hurry and get your's today and support the Lists
at the same time!
Here's the SSL Secure URL for making your Contribution:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you for your Support!!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Montgomery <1arm(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: CAR 602.39 |
here's the correct link: http://www.worldtranssiberia.com
Grant, if he tries again next year - will it be with a new 701? Or is
Art Mitchell selling his current plane because shipping is too expensive?
Grant Corriveau wrote:
>
>World Trans Siberia update....
>
>www.transworldSiberia.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Golovich" <john(at)golovich.com> |
After some discussions with the Alaska gentleman last night :)
I decided to go with automotive spray paint to test painting my tail section (which
has been totally completed).
I picked the color "Deep Wedgewood" This paint is a very dark blue that looks
almost black. My numbers will probably be white, with the fiberglass tips on
the tail and wings being that white with the metalic glitter in it. (Someone
spoke about it on this list before).
Does anyone see any problems with this?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Golovich" <john(at)golovich.com> |
I am doing the final riviting on the tail section and had a question about the
electric trim wire.
I have it wired through the elevator. but after that.. where does it go? Into
the stabilizer or will it eventually go down through the fuselage?
Any help is appreciated.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Golovich" <john(at)golovich.com> |
I am in need of 4 Standard L pieces, about 5" in length each. Does anyone have
any spares that they could help me out with. Please name your price.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Liming <gary(at)liming.org> |
>
>I am doing the final riviting on the tail section and had a question about
>the electric trim wire.
>
>I have it wired through the elevator. but after that.. where does it
>go? Into the stabilizer or will it eventually go down through the fuselage?
The trim control cable will be fed directly from the elevator into the
fuselage. You won't be able to do this until you mount the stabilator on
the fuselage permanently.
You would probably join with rudder position light wires as well once in
the fuselage, forming a bundle all the way to the panel.
Gary Liming
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carlos Sa <carlosfsa(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Panel Lighting / Hot Seat |
Hello, all
Since my home PC was "contamined" this past summer, I have been rebuilding my
bookmarks.
I came across a few that might be of interest to this list:
http://www.aeroenhancements.com/index.html
http://www.aircraftextras.com/
http://sptpanel.com/
Panel lighting products - I think I have seen the glow strip and the "fiber light"
in the A. Spruce catalog.
http://www.softline-online.de/english/warm/emat.htm
http://www.inalfasunroofs.com/p_carbotex_seat_heaters.html
The above links show products you can embed in the A/C seat to keep you warm...
Happy building
Carlos
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LEO CORBALIS" <l.corbalis(at)worldnet.att.net> |
The 40105 and 40106 Facet pumps do act like check valves, BUT they have a
feature called an "uncalibrated leak" so that in cars, when you park with
the engine hot, fuel in the line doesn't expand and force its way thru the
carburator, causing thrilling engine starts! This is no problem with 2 pumps
in paralell as the leak is small and the leaked fuel just recirculates. I
have a check valve on my 601 fuselage tank and feed the wing tanks direct to
the engine. When the wing tanks are empty, the main tank automatically takes
over. If I forget to close the wing tank valve, there are great big puddles
of avgas under the wings from overnight leakback! I called the factory and
asked an engineer how the pumps work.
Leo J. Corbalis
l.corbalis(at)worldnet.att.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 11/04/02 |
| From: | Greg P Jannakos <gpjann(at)juno.com> |
Just a suggestions for those builders who are installing electric fuel
pumps in their fuel system.
Keep the pump in a 'pusher location', that is as close to the fuel
tank(s) as possible.
This will lessen the chance for vapor locks.
Greg J
6-4211 601HDS
plans building 70%.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott and Valeree Stout <the_stouts(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Rotary Engines and the 801... |
Evenin' All...
With regards to considering the rotary... I have given considerable thought to
the rotary engine in the 801. There
is at least one other out there as well as they had already spec'd out an
engine mount( http://www.conversionconcepts.com/ ) from the same folks I was considering.
There are many issues which have been resolved by other RV builders, etc., however
there are still many issues which are currently not solved for the 801 or maybe
the solution
is not an attractive one.
If you have an 801 your first problem is going to be mounting the engine. If
you use the stock rx7 alternator mounting position and stock water pump housing
you will be 4" above the cowl line. That is if you use the suggested mounting
position in the THRUST document. After speaking with ZAC, you have
considerable latitude in where you have the engine thrust line. However,
lowering the engine more than 2" puts your prop clearance into an area you may
not wished to be. You could also rotate the rotary engine 90 degrees and do a
plugs up installation, but this has it's own problems not the least of which is
a custom oil pan and pickup.
Your next big problem is exhaust. It is extremely hot, much hotter than a
typical piston engine. You will have to design your own exhaust, and a muffler
is necessity, so you will have to design your own. You do have the option of
using several aftermaket mufflers, but it seems the only acceptable location
for these mufflers is hanging external under the belly( I assume this is a
result of the requirement they be a certain distance from the exhaust ports ).
You final large problem, a problem with all automotive fuel injected engines,
is the fuel return lines. Automotive fuel injection systems require the fuel
to be returned somewhere. Many folks have tried returning to small header
tanks, but in general this has not worked out for the larger engines. Thus, you
are left with
plumbing return fuel lines. Well, in the 801 only one of the fuel tanks has a
return fuel fitting. This leaves you with either creating a fuel transfer
system or adding a return fuel line fitting to each of the tanks. But, your
problems don't stop there as you will then need to figure out a return fuel
line routing in the wings. You are pretty much left with routing the line
behind the main spar and in front of the fuel tank or ahead of the main spar.
Tracy Crook and Bruce Turrentine have done great jobs of simplifying anyone's
installation. I would echo the sentimate to pay a visit to the
www.rotaryaviation.com web site. I highly recommend Tracy Crooks Aviator's
Guide to Mazda Rotary Conversion, The Mazda Papers, and the Mazda 13b Overhaul
Video( It puts a lot of the engine details in perspective. And find yourself
a
copy of Haynes for the RX7 on Amazon. There is a mailing list for the Rotary
engine( the list e-mail address escapes me ), you will want to lurk on this
list for a long while.
A lot of work has been done to make the RX7 compatible for aircraft use and
there are some challenges left. All are solvable, they just haven't been
solved for Zenith's. Hopefully, there are some more folks who are traveling
the rotary road for the 801.
-Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Meiste's" <meiste(at)essex1.com> |
| Subject: | Need HD Landing Advice |
I'm looking for advice from any HD drivers (HDS advice is welcome also) who can
help me out in my landing technique. I'm a new HD pilot (about 5 hours solo time
now) and I must admit I love the way my HD flies .... except for the landings.
I was hoping to be able to get this plane into 1,000 foot grass strips but
as of now the best I can do is around 1,500 feet, and that's without any obstacles
at the ends.
I fly my approach about 70 MPH on final, as I cross the threshold I'm only a few
feet of the ground. My Stratus is now at about 2,000 RPM and I just seem to
float forever. When the mains do finally settle in the nose still stays off for
another few hundred feet. I've tried slower approaches but that seems to just
plunk her down hard.
Thanks in advance for anyone willing to share your 601 short field landing secrets
with me.
Yes I know, practice, practice, and more practice......................
Kelly Meiste
601 HD Stratus Tri-Gear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Ferris" <ferret(at)wmtel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Need HD Landing Advice |
I too have an HD with trigear. I found that I had to experiment with power
settings on final to find a sink rate that was the most comfortable. With
the power off, the sink rate is so fast that if you are late on the flare,
you'll plunk it in. If you flare too early the speed with bleed-off and the
result is the same unless you add power.
I have a 912, so actual power settings aren't too useful to you. I fly
final at 70~75 and back off from there. I wouldn't be too concerned about
landing distances yet. It was at about 4~5 hours that I really started to
get more comfortable in mine. I just took mine up to 12,000 feet and it was
still climbing almost 400fpm! I am really having fun with this thing; the
handling qualities are exactly what I was looking for. I'm getting 104mph
at 3000'MSL, 5200 RPM with no fairings. I'm happy with that; I hope to get
to 110mph one day with wheel pants and other little aerodynamic cleanups.
My only issue is my airspeed indicator calibration. When I calibrated it
with my GPS I found it to be off. It's reasonably close except in the low
end. I tried to be smart and installed a static port on either side of the
fuselage above and in front of the wing. I'm debating about disconnecting
the ports to see what happens. However, the way it is off makes me wonder
if the issue is relative to the angle of attack at slow speeds and the pitot
tube.
Greg
----- Original Message -----
From: "The Meiste's" <meiste(at)essex1.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Need HD Landing Advice
>
> I'm looking for advice from any HD drivers (HDS advice is welcome also)
who can help me out in my landing technique. I'm a new HD pilot (about 5
hours solo time now) and I must admit I love the way my HD flies .... except
for the landings. I was hoping to be able to get this plane into 1,000 foot
grass strips but as of now the best I can do is around 1,500 feet, and
that's without any obstacles at the ends.
> I fly my approach about 70 MPH on final, as I cross the threshold I'm only
a few feet of the ground. My Stratus is now at about 2,000 RPM and I just
seem to float forever. When the mains do finally settle in the nose still
stays off for another few hundred feet. I've tried slower approaches but
that seems to just plunk her down hard.
> Thanks in advance for anyone willing to share your 601 short field landing
secrets with me.
> Yes I know, practice, practice, and more practice......................
>
> Kelly Meiste
> 601 HD Stratus Tri-Gear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darryl West (Home)" <rdwest(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Need HD Landing Advice |
FWIW: I can land my tricycle HD/912 within 1000' from threshold.
I routinely land on runway 16 at Springbank (elev 3940')and turn off onto
Charlie without even braking hard (about 1200'?). I can even stop before
runway 25 if I want (solo). This looks like 900 feet long here:
http://www.cadvision.com/cufc/fields/sprngbnk.htm
Darryl
rdwest(at)shaw.ca
http://members.shaw.ca/rdwest/index.htm
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
> I'm looking for advice from any HD drivers (HDS advice is welcome
> also) who can help me out in my landing technique. I'm a new HD
> pilot (about 5 hours solo time now) and I must admit I love the
> way my HD flies .... except for the landings. I was hoping to be
> able to get this plane into 1,000 foot grass strips but as of now
> the best I can do is around 1,500 feet, and that's without any
> obstacles at the ends.
> I fly my approach about 70 MPH on final, as I cross the threshold
> I'm only a few feet of the ground. My Stratus is now at about
> 2,000 RPM and I just seem to float forever. When the mains do
> finally settle in the nose still stays off for another few
> hundred feet. I've tried slower approaches but that seems to just
> plunk her down hard.
> Thanks in advance for anyone willing to share your 601 short
> field landing secrets with me.
> Yes I know, practice, practice, and more practice......................
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com> |
John:
Where are you located?
Randy, Las Vegas
Subject: Zenith-List: Std L
>
> I am in need of 4 Standard L pieces, about 5" in length each. Does anyone
have any spares that they could help me out with. Please name your price.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Philip Polstra" <ppolstra(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need HD Landing Advice |
Adjust the idle on your stratus downward. I used to have long landing rolls
until I knocked the idle down to 1000 rpm. The brakes are marginal in the
plane, and it 2000 rpm's the engine produces too much thrust.
>
> I'm looking for advice from any HD drivers (HDS advice is welcome also)
who can help me out in my landing technique. I'm a new HD pilot (about 5
hours solo time now) and I must admit I love the way my HD flies .... except
for the landings. I was hoping to be able to get this plane into 1,000 foot
grass strips but as of now the best I can do is around 1,500 feet, and
that's without any obstacles at the ends.
> I fly my approach about 70 MPH on final, as I cross the threshold I'm only
a few feet of the ground. My Stratus is now at about 2,000 RPM and I just
seem to float forever. When the mains do finally settle in the nose still
stays off for another few hundred feet. I've tried slower approaches but
that seems to just plunk her down hard.
> Thanks in advance for anyone willing to share your 601 short field landing
secrets with me.
> Yes I know, practice, practice, and more practice......................
>
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Weston, Jim" <Jim.Weston(at)delta.com> |
| Subject: | Need HD Landing Advice |
If you have the Stratus engine, I'm assuming that you have the 70 inch Warp
Drive propeller. I found that the prop pitch setting makes a great
difference on the approach. A higher pitch setting makes it float about
like a Cessna, and a low pitch makes mine (an HDS) fly closer to a brick
when the power is pulled. For my situation, I found that a setting of 13.5
to 14.5 degrees is a good range, depending on desired climb rate and cruise
rpm. I've tried pitch settings from 11.5 to 17 degrees.
Jim Weston
McDonough, Ga
-----Original Message-----
From: The Meiste's [mailto:meiste(at)essex1.com]
Subject: Zenith-List: Need HD Landing Advice
I'm looking for advice from any HD drivers (HDS advice is welcome also) who
can help me out in my landing technique. I'm a new HD pilot (about 5 hours
solo time now) and I must admit I love the way my HD flies .... except for
the landings. I was hoping to be able to get this plane into 1,000 foot
grass strips but as of now the best I can do is around 1,500 feet, and
that's without any obstacles at the ends.
I fly my approach about 70 MPH on final, as I cross the threshold I'm only a
few feet of the ground. My Stratus is now at about 2,000 RPM and I just seem
to float forever. When the mains do finally settle in the nose still stays
off for another few hundred feet. I've tried slower approaches but that
seems to just plunk her down hard.
Thanks in advance for anyone willing to share your 601 short field landing
secrets with me.
Yes I know, practice, practice, and more practice......................
Kelly Meiste
601 HD Stratus Tri-Gear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Pwalsh4539(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Need HD Landing Advice |
I concur...check your prop pitch and definately lower your idle setting.
Although I have a HD tri with a 912 and am not experienced with the Stratus,
it sure sounds to me like you are being pulled down the runway after
touchdown. I routinely land on a 1300 ft frass strip WITH obstacles using
only about half of the length...not that I am superman or anything, it is
just that the light weight of the 601 doesnt roll far after touchdown with no
power. I fly approach at 80...clear the obstacles, pull the power and plunk
her in...adding a little power at flare if necessary. On a paved longer
runway I use 80 on approach and just fly her down reducing powergrudally
after flare. Doesnt roll too far...a few hundred feet. This is at an
elevation of 750 ft msl. What is your field elevation?
Hope this helps.
Patrick Walsh
601 HD/912
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <kkinney(at)fuse.net> |
I asked Nick this question and was told to exit throuh the front elevator skin
25mm below the hinge.
From there, run the wire along the LE elevator skin until you reach the center
point where it will exit (downward) into the rear fuse.
To run the wire along the LE elevator face, I was told to fold a piece of plastic
around the wire & rivet the plastic into the LE skin of the elevator.
I used some nylon P clamps I found at the local harware store. This is the same
stuff used to run speaker wire.
To clarify, the wire never enters the horizontal stabilizer. The only flex the
wire takes should be where it enters the rear fuse. While I'm not there yet,
it seems there will be a sizeable length of wire at this point to lessen the
stresses. (Also to provide a drip loop, but I'm guessing on this.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carolina Sky Sports" <tom(at)carolinaskysports.com> |
| Subject: | Looking for a 701 Project |
I am interested in finding a 701 project. Someone out there has one, or
knows someone who does, that is not going to be finished. It is just
sitting around taking up space in the garage. Please get in touch with me
at tom(at)carolinaskysports.com
Thanks,
Blue Skies,
Tom Evans
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Golovich" <john(at)golovich.com> |
| Subject: | Status update on N714UA |
I finally submitted the paperwork to reserver N714UA. It was the N number of a
Cessna 152 that I totalled a few years back.
The Rudder, Horizontal Stabilizer, and Elevator are completely riveted and ready
to go.
I still need to install the mounting brackets on the elevator and stabilizer though.
Do people normally do this now or do they wait for final assembly?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gower <ggower_99(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need HD Landing Advice |
Just a thought, maybe also has to do with the Startus engine. How much
is the diference in weight (at take off, with pilot and gas) betwen a
912 and a Stratus powered 601HD? a heavier plane has diferent landing
characteristcs. A high idle does not help also.
Saludos
Gary Gower
--- Pwalsh4539(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I concur...check your prop pitch and definately lower your idle
> setting.
> Although I have a HD tri with a 912 and am not experienced with the
> Stratus,
> it sure sounds to me like you are being pulled down the runway after
> touchdown. I routinely land on a 1300 ft frass strip WITH obstacles
> using
> only about half of the length...not that I am superman or anything,
> it is
> just that the light weight of the 601 doesnt roll far after touchdown
> with no
> power. I fly approach at 80...clear the obstacles, pull the power and
> plunk
> her in...adding a little power at flare if necessary. On a paved
> longer
> runway I use 80 on approach and just fly her down reducing
> powergrudally
> after flare. Doesnt roll too far...a few hundred feet. This is at an
> elevation of 750 ft msl. What is your field elevation?
> Hope this helps.
> Patrick Walsh
> 601 HD/912
>
>
>
> Contribution
> Gifts!
> _->
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Meiste's" <meiste(at)essex1.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need HD Landing Advice |
Thanks to all who took the time to send me advice!
Sounds like my first step is to reduce the idle. My Stratus naturally likes
to idle at 2,000 RPM, so I'm going to try dropping that back to 1,000. But
now I have a question on the process for adjusting the dual Bing carbs. Can
I just give each carbs idle screw the same amount of turns to slow it down,
or must the & carbs be tuned some how to get both carbs idling at exactly
the same RPM?
I will also look at re-pitching my prop latter. My 3 blade (70") warp is now
set at 13 degrees. As the engine is still new I thought it best to set it
for climb for the first 50 hours or so, as not to lug the engine to much on
take offs.
Thanks again,
Kelly
601 HD Stratus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Weston, Jim" <Jim.Weston(at)delta.com> |
| Subject: | Need HD Landing Advice |
Kelly,
13 degrees should be more than a low enough pitch setting. I imagine that
reducing your idle rpm will solve your problem.
On your idle adjustment question. Since your only dealing with idle power,
just adjust the idle stop screw on each carb to the same physical stop
position (i.e. eyeball it) and that will be close enough for idle. I'm not
talking about the idle mixture on the bottom of each carb. I'm talking
about the physical stop for the throttle arm.
Good Luck,
Jim Weston
-----Original Message-----
From: The Meiste's [mailto:meiste(at)essex1.com]
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Need HD Landing Advice
Thanks to all who took the time to send me advice!
Sounds like my first step is to reduce the idle. My Stratus naturally likes
to idle at 2,000 RPM, so I'm going to try dropping that back to 1,000. But
now I have a question on the process for adjusting the dual Bing carbs. Can
I just give each carbs idle screw the same amount of turns to slow it down,
or must the & carbs be tuned some how to get both carbs idling at exactly
the same RPM?
I will also look at re-pitching my prop latter. My 3 blade (70") warp is now
set at 13 degrees. As the engine is still new I thought it best to set it
for climb for the first 50 hours or so, as not to lug the engine to much on
take offs.
Thanks again,
Kelly
601 HD Stratus
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Status update on N714UA |
John- Hold off until you finish the fusalage. I remember Nick saying that
at the workshop. Al Young N601AY - XL 20 % done.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Golovich" <john(at)golovich.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Status update on N714UA
>
> I finally submitted the paperwork to reserver N714UA. It was the N number
of a Cessna 152 that I totalled a few years back.
>
> The Rudder, Horizontal Stabilizer, and Elevator are completely riveted and
ready to go.
>
> I still need to install the mounting brackets on the elevator and
stabilizer though.
>
> Do people normally do this now or do they wait for final assembly?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Bailey <Scott(at)TheBaileyFamily.org> |
| Subject: | Why choose the 801? |
Last month, I finally decided: I will build an airplane.
Which one? My mission dictates seating 4 adults 20% of the time, two
of them must be comfortable. The aircraft must also be very easy to
fly, as I will be a very low time pilot when it is complete and others
will learn on it.
After reading about the 801, I feel that it might fit this duty
comfortably, albeit a bit slowly. The other contenders are the Zodiac
640 and the as yet to be completed RV10.
I am wondering what airplanes 801 builders didn't choose, and why?
As well as why they chose the 801.
Scott Bailey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JNBOLDING1" <JNBOLDING1(at)mail.ev1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Why choose the 801? |
>
>Last month, I finally decided: I will build an airplane.
>
>Which one? My mission dictates seating 4 adults 20% of the time, two
>of them must be comfortable. The aircraft must also be very easy to
>fly, as I will be a very low time pilot when it is complete and others
>will learn on it.
>
>Scott Bailey
You might look at the Bearhawk Cheap to build but a pretty ambitious project
from scratch Kits available Cruise a LOT faster than the 801 with almost as
good STOL characteristics. LOW and SLOW John
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Why choose the 801? |
| From: | "Carlson, Dale" <DCarlson(at)mail.dese.state.mo.us> |
Scott
I have been building an 801 since June 2000 and have the airframe complete and
working on panel and engine.
I like the looks of this airplane, it fit my requirements...large load capability,
it gets off the ground in a hurry (and back down) . Most of my flight time
was in a Huey at 90 Kts so the performance is something I am used to. (my mind
doesn't think at 180 MPH)
I like the flying part so my logic was...if I fly faster and get there in half
the time, I have taken half the fun out of the picture.
At the time I started, there was not a lot of 4 place to choose from.
After flying the factory 801 a couple of times, I really liked the flying qualities.
Thai is my story.
Dale Carlson
CH-801 N 128DC
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Bailey [mailto:Scott(at)TheBaileyFamily.org]
Subject: Zenith-List: Why choose the 801?
Last month, I finally decided: I will build an airplane.
Which one? My mission dictates seating 4 adults 20% of the time, two
of them must be comfortable. The aircraft must also be very easy to
fly, as I will be a very low time pilot when it is complete and others
will learn on it.
After reading about the 801, I feel that it might fit this duty
comfortably, albeit a bit slowly. The other contenders are the Zodiac
640 and the as yet to be completed RV10.
I am wondering what airplanes 801 builders didn't choose, and why?
As well as why they chose the 801.
Scott Bailey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | List Fund Raiser - What Listers Are Saying... |
Dear Listers,
First, I'd like say *thank you* to everyone that's already made a
Contribution to this year's List Fund Raiser! Thank you! If you haven't
already made a Contribution, won't you take a movement and show your
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YOUR GENEROSITY that keeps them running!!
Won't please take a minute and make a Contribution via the SSL secure web
site via Credit Card, Paypal, or personal check. Here's the URL:
http://www.matronics.com/contributions
This year, I've been getting some *really* nice comments from Contributors
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Thank you for your support!!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
_________________ What your fellow Listers are saying... _________________
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Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Golovich" <john(at)golovich.com> |
| Subject: | Alt. Source for Rivets |
I am looking for an alternative source for rivets, other than ZAC. They provided
me a quote of 0.09 per rivet. That seems kind of high to me.
Can anyone give me the specs of what I will be looking for?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carlos Sa <carlosfsa(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alt. Source for Rivets |
> I am looking for an alternative source for rivets, other than ZAC. They provided
> me a quote of 0.09 per rivet. That seems kind of high to me.
>
>
> Can anyone give me the specs of what I will be looking for?
John, take a look into the archives, this was discussed a number of times.
Search for Avex and Avdel, or go straight to the source:
http://www.avdel.textron.com/brochures/breakstem/index.htm
Carlos
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pinneo, George" <George.Pinneo(at)trw.com> |
Good on you!
GGP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carlos Sa <carlosfsa(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Prep for priming / identification of parts |
Hello, all
I am about ready to de-burr, scrub and spray primer on the stabilizer and elevator
parts.
As I was getting ready to scrub the parts with scotch brite, I realized I have
to
figure a way of marking them so that the markings is preserved throughout the
process (scrubbing and priming). This is further complicated by the fact that some
parts have marks to indicate "top", "left" and such.
I am thinking of using tags attached with a piece of thread or thin wire. Not a
very
convenient idea, but... How have you folks tackled this??
Thanks for your input
Carlos Sa
Montreal
CH601-HD, plans - now approaching the "1% done" milestone!
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H. Robert Schoenberger" <HRS4(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prep for priming / identification of parts |
Carlos . . . I also had the same problem and finally solved it in a number
of ways. At the first go-around, I just sprayed the contact areas, e.g.,
where the rib flange is against the spar and kept my markings out in
non-contact areas which were not sprayed at this time. Later after the
skeleton was riveted together, I went back and sprayed everything. On the
small pieces I sprayed only one side, the contact side. Where both pieces
has to be sprayed, e.g. a L doubler, I sometimes snipped off the tiniest of
corners on the top so I knew which end is the top. On the wing and the slat
bracket which attaches to the nose ribs, I kept the respective rib and its
bracket in a large baggie and spray them separately and then riveted them.
Hope this helps. Hap Schoenberger 701 tail done, working on right wing.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carlos Sa" <carlosfsa(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Prep for priming / identification of parts
>
> Hello, all
>
>
> I am about ready to de-burr, scrub and spray primer on the stabilizer and
elevator
> parts.
> As I was getting ready to scrub the parts with scotch brite, I realized I
have to
> figure a way of marking them so that the markings is preserved throughout
the
> process (scrubbing and priming). This is further complicated by the fact
that some
> parts have marks to indicate "top", "left" and such.
>
> I am thinking of using tags attached with a piece of thread or thin wire.
Not a very
> convenient idea, but... How have you folks tackled this??
>
> Thanks for your input
>
> Carlos Sa
> Montreal
> CH601-HD, plans - now approaching the "1% done" milestone!
>
> Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Barth <davids601xl(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alt. Source for Rivets |
Many builders in Eastern Canada, including myself, buy
Avex rivets from Avdel, Division of Textron Canada, in
Toronto. Address is 87 Disco Road, REXDALE, Ontario
M9W 1M3. 1-800-268-9947. Price is less than half of
what ZAC charges for them.
They shouls be able to thelp you if you ask for the A4
and A5 blind rivelt used for Zenith aircraft
construction. Good luck.
--- John Golovich wrote:
>
>
> I am looking for an alternative source for rivets,
> other than ZAC. They provided me a quote of 0.09
> per rivet. That seems kind of high to me.
>
>
> Can anyone give me the specs of what I will be
> looking for?
>
David 601 XL Plansbuilding - partsbuilding right now.
=====
David Barth
601 XL Plansbuilder
Currently making parts.
Soob EA-82 SPFI
U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos
http://launch.yahoo.com/u2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Poor <fredspoor2002(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alt. Source for Rivets/ warning from Chris |
I took the following off from one of Chris' websites:
(this is why it is important to know HOW these
homebuilds are put together:
Note: It is obvious that the notch depth in the stem
is directly related
to the breaking load. The Avex
rivets (from Textron's Avdel division) manufactured in
the state of New
York and in Brazil do not have
the consistency of those manufactured in the UK and
should not be used
on aircraft. Zenith Aircraft
imports Avex rivets from England and makes a
systematic test on every
lot received, thus guaranteeing
the correct quality. The FAA type-certificated ZENITH
CH 2000 aircraft
uses these same rivets.
--- David Barth wrote:
>
>
> Many builders in Eastern Canada, including myself,
> buy
> Avex rivets from Avdel, Division of Textron Canada,
> in
> Toronto. Address is 87 Disco Road, REXDALE, Ontario
> M9W 1M3. 1-800-268-9947. Price is less than half of
> what ZAC charges for them.
>
> They shouls be able to thelp you if you ask for the
> A4
> and A5 blind rivelt used for Zenith aircraft
> construction. Good luck.
>
>
> --- John Golovich wrote:
> >
> >
> > I am looking for an alternative source for rivets,
> > other than ZAC. They provided me a quote of 0.09
> > per rivet. That seems kind of high to me.
> >
> >
> > Can anyone give me the specs of what I will be
> > looking for?
> >
>
> David 601 XL Plansbuilding - partsbuilding right
> now.
>
> =====
> David Barth
> 601 XL Plansbuilder
> Currently making parts.
> Soob EA-82 SPFI
>
> U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos
> http://launch.yahoo.com/u2
>
>
>
> Month --
> Gifts!)
> Click on the Contribution
> Terrific Free Gifts!
> Dralle, List Admin.
> _->
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos
http://launch.yahoo.com/u2
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: 11 Msgs - 11/07/02 |
| From: | Greg P Jannakos <gpjann(at)juno.com> |
I'm looking for a cowling for my Zodiac 601 HDS for a Corvair engine.
Anybody hae one they might want to get rid of?
gpjann(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aaron" <agustafson(at)chartermi.net> |
| Subject: | ?s 601HD plans built |
Builders of any CH designs:
I'd like your experience, thoughts etc. on the following subjects.
1. Fiberglass engine cowl; if you built yours, how many layers of what weight glass,
your process for layup, your results, ie: worked good, too heavy, too flimsy
etc? What might you do different?
2. What kind of wire did you run in fuselage and wings for warning and landing
lights, trim motors?
3. Cockpit ventilation: what do you have? too little, have heat, etc. and how
does it work?
Thanks for any info you share.
Aaron Gustafson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry C. McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ?s 601HD plans built |
Aaron,
If I were to do the fiberglass cowl, I'd use 2 layers of 9 oz and 1 of 3 oz
woven cloth to
do the finish item. I'd also use polyester resin, but most builders nowdays
prefer the epoxy
combinations to work with. You'll build it more than twice and use 3 times
the materials if you
build the original mold and finish parts. I believe the price of the cowl
halves from ZAC is reasonable enough to recommend buying it, because you'll
be hard pressed to do it for anywhere near that price. It is as light
as a cowling should be and will require some rework at the exhaust area if
you go with a Subaru like many do.
I ran AWG 16 with the tefzel spec tinned wire available from either Wicks or
Aircraft Spruce.
You'll need #2 for battery to starter contacts and #4 for the battery
contact to the main bus. I used #14
between alternate switch and diode between main and essential bus. Check
out the free downloads
of wiring schematics on the AeroElectric Connection website. Great help
there.
Ventilation will be a NASA type vent either side of the forward fuselage
back to underside of the panel.
A plastic ball joint vent is available from Wicks that is reasonable.
Ventilation is mostly local and
depends on where you live and fly. Havn't resolved what to do about canopy
fog yet but it should be addressed.
Hope this helps,
Larry C. McFarland - @ http://www.macsmachine.com (601hds at everything
between panel and firewall.)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aaron" <agustafson(at)chartermi.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: ?s 601HD plans built
>
> Builders of any CH designs:
>
> I'd like your experience, thoughts etc. on the following subjects.
>
> 1. Fiberglass engine cowl; if you built yours, how many layers of what
weight glass, your process for layup, your results, ie: worked good, too
heavy, too flimsy etc? What might you do different?
>
> 2. What kind of wire did you run in fuselage and wings for warning and
landing lights, trim motors?
>
> 3. Cockpit ventilation: what do you have? too little, have heat, etc.
and how does it work?
>
> Thanks for any info you share.
>
> Aaron Gustafson
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Deiterich" <cfd(at)thegateway.net> |
Today I had a 7000+ hr pilot fly N701TX from my pasture runway to a public airport
with a 5000 foot runway and lots of room. When the weather is right I'll
fly it. The Jabiru 2200 starts easily and the CHT and oil temps where fine.
It only got 2500 rpm (could be tachometer). When I get to testing it I will pass
along the performance numbers.
He took off with about a 7 kt cross wind. The runway is slightly uphill but I estimate
he got off in 400 to 500 feet. He flew around for a while to get the
feel of it. The trailing edge of the elevator (which bends up 20 deg. up to give
rigidity to the trailing edge) forces the elevator down, even with full up
trim, so I'll adjust the trim tab linkage and see how that works. ZAC should
have put 10 degree bends on the top and bottom skins. On ZAC's 701, Roger had
to bend the trailing edge down to fix their trim problem (I found this out after
I built my elevator).
IAS was about 68 mph. There was a 90 degree 10kt cross wind on landing which he did very well. I have 2900 hours in it. It can be seen at http://members.thegateway.net/cfd/
Chuck D.
All smiles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob999" <bob999(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Signal Splitters and Antennas |
I need some advise with my antenna connections. I have a glide slope signal splitter
and wanted to try to use it to connect both my ELT and Narco Transponder
to one antenna. I know I would not have the best tuned for both units however
would it be an acceptable compromise or am I destined to have three antennas
on my 601XL. Are there other options beside adding another antenna?
Thanks in advance
I think I see the light at the end of the tunnel-Avionics to go
Bob
N601XL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Alberti" <daberti(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Signal Splitters and Antennas |
The ELT and Transponder do not belong on the same type of antennas. They
transmit on different wave lengths and one or the other would work with your
proposed setup. The splitter works with the vor/glide slope because one
wavelength is an acceptable fractional component of the other. I'm sure no
expert on radio communication antennas but I ask similar questions myself.
I have six counting the GPS on mine!
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "bob999" <bob999(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: Signal Splitters and Antennas
>
> I need some advise with my antenna connections. I have a glide slope
signal splitter and wanted to try to use it to connect both my ELT and Narco
Transponder to one antenna. I know I would not have the best tuned for both
units however would it be an acceptable compromise or am I destined to have
three antennas on my 601XL. Are there other options beside adding another
antenna?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> I think I see the light at the end of the tunnel-Avionics to go
>
> Bob
> N601XL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Signal Splitters and Antennas |
>
> I need some advise with my antenna connections. I have a glide slope signal
> splitter and wanted to try to use it to connect both my ELT and Narco
> Transponder to one antenna. I know I would not have the best tuned for both
> units however would it be an acceptable compromise or am I destined to have
> three antennas on my 601XL. Are there other options beside adding another
> antenna?
>
> Thanks in advance
First of all, those signal splitters are designed to allow one antenna to
feed two or more RECEIVERS, they are not designed to handle transmitter
power levels. Your transponder transmits over a hundred watts of power in
short pulses, this would not only fry the splitter it would probably fry
your ELT.
Do not hook up two transmitters to the same antenna, even if they operate on
the same frequency band. In fact, the usual recommendation is that
transmitter antennas should be physically separated from each other and from
other receiver antennas by at least three feet. (Two transmitters can be
connected to one antenna but it requires special switching equipment to
prevent the transmitted signal of one from being fed into the other, a
splitter won't handle this task.)
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
Wings, tail, fuselage and canopy done, wheels and tail mounted.
Working on instrument panel and electrical.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gower <ggower_99(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prep for priming / identification of parts |
Hello Carlos,
What we do in our 701 is: we paint them, the last thing in the night,
with a little HVLP air brush, and we place them in order in the table
for next day assemble with clecos. To mark the "top" side of a part we
make a little mark with the "punch" (the automatic pencil to center the
holes). When we are not going to install the parts the next day, we
mark them, when the zinc cromate is dry, with a permanent marker in the
"inside" (where is not going to be exposed in the finished plane). Has
work as far.
Saludos
Gary Gower
in Guadalajara, Mexico.
701 912S
Wings, tail, slats, flaperons, "air cond duct" (tailcone), firewall
finshed, now beguinning with the "dunne buggy" (lower cabin area).
--- Carlos Sa wrote:
>
> Hello, all
>
>
> I am about ready to de-burr, scrub and spray primer on the stabilizer
> and elevator
> parts.
> As I was getting ready to scrub the parts with scotch brite, I
> realized I have to
> figure a way of marking them so that the markings is preserved
> throughout the
> process (scrubbing and priming). This is further complicated by the
> fact that some
> parts have marks to indicate "top", "left" and such.
>
> I am thinking of using tags attached with a piece of thread or thin
> wire. Not a very
> convenient idea, but... How have you folks tackled this??
>
> Thanks for your input
>
> Carlos Sa
> Montreal
> CH601-HD, plans - now approaching the "1% done" milestone!
>
> Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
>
>
>
> Contribution
> Gifts!
> _->
>
>
>
>
>
>
U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | List Fund Raiser Continues... |
Marie Murillo
Dear Listers,
Just a quick reminder this morning that we're well into this year's Email
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Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
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http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JEEdmondson(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Off topic, but aviation related |
I took my girl friend to Wright flyers sunday for a discovery flight. we went
up in a nice 172. i was in the back seat, she was in the left seat and the
instructor was in the right. Now she had the plane and he was directing her
back to SAT for landing. He told her he would talk her through the landing
and when she got uncomfortabel or he saw that he need to take the controls
her would land the plane, but he would let her stay on the controls till
then. He also said that he ALWAYS ahs to do the landing. well....... she made
a very nice landing without any control imputs from him. I was way impressed.
My question is, is it really that unusual? What did you guys experience the
first time? The reason im asking is that it looks like im going to have to
make the front door wider so she cane get her head through it! LOL What do
you guys think?
sorry for being so long
Jimmy Edmondson
jeedmondson(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JEEdmondson(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Off topic, but aviation related |
And he said that he has never had that happen, he was also impressed. Sales
pitch maybe?
Jimmy Edmondson
jeedmondson(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Nichelson <bn2(at)bright.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Signal Splitters and Antennas |
>From: "bob999" <bob999(at)worldnet.att.net>
>Subject: Zenith-List: Signal Splitters and Antennas
>
>
>I need some advise with my antenna connections. I have a glide slope
>signal splitter and wanted to try to use it to connect both my ELT and
>Narco Transponder to one antenna. I know I would not have the best tuned
>for both units however would it be an acceptable compromise or am I
>destined to have three antennas on my 601XL. Are there other options
>beside adding another antenna?
>
>Thanks in advance
>
>I think I see the light at the end of the tunnel-Avionics to go
>
>Bob
>N601XL
Bob,
I put my ELT antenna inside the canopy. It is mounted to the baggage floor
close to the right side. I bent the antenna to follow the shape of the
hoop. I made some small clips to attach it. It works well, is out of the
slip stream completely and is out of the way of baggage. I suggested this
option to a friend who built an RV4 and he did the same. No problem with
the FAA inspector. Hope this helps.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob999" <bob999(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Signal Splitters and Antennas |
Thanks for the info, I knew I could count on the group to help out. I like
your Idea and will try it. Can you send any PIC's showing your antenna
mounted?
Bob
N601XL
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Nichelson" <bn2(at)bright.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Signal Splitters and Antennas
>
> >From: "bob999" <bob999(at)worldnet.att.net>
> >Subject: Zenith-List: Signal Splitters and Antennas
> >
> >
> >I need some advise with my antenna connections. I have a glide slope
> >signal splitter and wanted to try to use it to connect both my ELT and
> >Narco Transponder to one antenna. I know I would not have the best tuned
> >for both units however would it be an acceptable compromise or am I
> >destined to have three antennas on my 601XL. Are there other options
> >beside adding another antenna?
> >
> >Thanks in advance
> >
> >I think I see the light at the end of the tunnel-Avionics to go
> >
> >Bob
> >N601XL
>
> Bob,
>
> I put my ELT antenna inside the canopy. It is mounted to the baggage floor
> close to the right side. I bent the antenna to follow the shape of the
> hoop. I made some small clips to attach it. It works well, is out of the
> slip stream completely and is out of the way of baggage. I suggested this
> option to a friend who built an RV4 and he did the same. No problem with
> the FAA inspector. Hope this helps.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | richard priebus <rpriebus(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prep for priming / identification of parts |
Hi Carlos....I had the same problem and this is what I
did. I wrote the part identification on a silver
washer with a super fine tip sharpie. I then covered
the writing with masking tape and fastened the washer
to the part using very fine none insulated wire. I
then proceeded to prep and primer the parts. When
completed, I removed the masking tape for part
identification. Good luck. Richard Priebus
--- Carlos Sa wrote:
>
>
> Hello, all
>
>
> I am about ready to de-burr, scrub and spray primer
> on the stabilizer and elevator
> parts.
> As I was getting ready to scrub the parts with
> scotch brite, I realized I have to
> figure a way of marking them so that the markings is
> preserved throughout the
> process (scrubbing and priming). This is further
> complicated by the fact that some
> parts have marks to indicate "top", "left" and such.
>
> I am thinking of using tags attached with a piece of
> thread or thin wire. Not a very
> convenient idea, but... How have you folks tackled
> this??
>
> Thanks for your input
>
> Carlos Sa
> Montreal
> CH601-HD, plans - now approaching the "1% done"
> milestone!
>
> Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
>
>
>
> Month --
> Gifts!)
> Click on the Contribution
> Terrific Free Gifts!
> Dralle, List Admin.
> _->
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos
http://launch.yahoo.com/u2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Flydog1966(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Signal Splitters and Antennas |
you dont want to put an antenna inside a metal fuselage, I dont know exactly
where yours is located inside the canopy but it might be o.k. if it gets a
good "view" of the sky. If the plane lands up-side down in an accident it
wont transmit thru the fuse very well. But then again if the antenna is on
top of the fuse it'll be destroyed anyway. Oh-well just a couple Ideas.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Frisby" <marslander(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prep for priming / identification of parts |
I fretted about this quite a bit before I realized, that after you drill the
holes by hand in these parts, they couldn't be put together wrong if you
wanted to, so I just paint them and sort them out afterward, hasn't been a
problem yet.
STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Swinford" <grs-pms(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | 601 nose gear steering |
I've just installed the nose gear bungee and the steering pushrods. With the
airplane still on a cradle and the nose wheel and rudder not installed the
steering effort is so high that I'm afraid I'll break the rudder pedals
while I try to get it loosened up. I've loosened the upper stop plate so it
isn't rubbing on the shelf, and I've greased everything that moves. I think
the problem is the contact between the steering cross-tube on the strut and
the lower stops (6-F-10-1). My lower stops have somewhat less slope than
the drawing shows.
The only tri-gear Zodiac I've flown in had high pedal forces in flight, but
not while taxying. Rudder pedal forces seemed normal on the factory's
taildragger.
Have any of the rest of you tri-gear Zodiac builders experienced this
problem, and if so, what did you do to improve the situation. I don't want
to fly with such a stiff rudder control.
I wonder if the rudder pedal reinforcement mod was made necessary by
excessive steering force on nose gear airplanes, or was it excessive brake
pedal force?
Your experience and advice will be much appreciated.
George Swinford
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Pwalsh4539(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 601 nose gear steering |
I did not have any trouble with excessive rudder pedal pressure for control
input, but certainly have to use a lot for the brakes...as everyone else
does. I'm sure the brakes have much to do with the rudder pedal mod.
Something certainly is not right if you need anywhere near the pressure
required for brakes for rudder only.
Patrick Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Sharpe" <fly601(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 601 nose gear steering |
George,
I had the same experience you're having. There are several solutions; I
used them all.
The resistance is all in the lower bearing, where the steering cross
tube rests in the nose gear stop (6F10-1). First of all I decreased the
slope on the nose gear stop, as you say you have done, but with little
effect. Don't reduce the slope too much or it will no longer be
self-centering.
Then I installed a piece of 3/8" thick UHMW plastic on the inner sides
of the nose gear stop, sloped the same along the top edges as the nose gear
slide. Now the steering cross tube rests on both the UHMW and the aluminum
extrusion of the nose gear stop. This makes a much better bearing surface
than just the aluminum, and it will probably never wear at all.
Finally, the bearing surface must be well lubricated. The white grease
that comes in an aerosol can at any automotive store works well. With the
steering cross tube now sitting on the greased UHMW, the steering effort is
reduced considerably, and it takes very little pressure to turn the nose
gear.
Both on the ground and in the air the rudder forces required are now
excellent.
Regards,
Paul Sharpe
Guelph, Ontario, Canada
C-IABP - CH601HD / Rotax 912S
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "George Swinford" <grs-pms(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: 601 nose gear steering
>
> I've just installed the nose gear bungee and the steering pushrods. With
the
> airplane still on a cradle and the nose wheel and rudder not installed the
> steering effort is so high that I'm afraid I'll break the rudder pedals
> while I try to get it loosened up. I've loosened the upper stop plate so
it
> isn't rubbing on the shelf, and I've greased everything that moves. I
think
> the problem is the contact between the steering cross-tube on the strut
and
> the lower stops (6-F-10-1). My lower stops have somewhat less slope than
> the drawing shows.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Weston, Jim" <Jim.Weston(at)delta.com> |
| Subject: | 601 nose gear steering |
I agree with Patrick. Brakes are a problem that we learn to live with, but
my rudder pedal, though draggy, moves relatively easily on the ground and in
flight. In flight there is enough drag that the pedal tends to stay where
you put it, rather than self center. But it isn't hard to push at all.
Jim Weston
CH601HDS, Tri-Gear, w/Stratus
McDonough, Ga.
-----Original Message-----
From: Pwalsh4539(at)aol.com [mailto:Pwalsh4539(at)aol.com]
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: 601 nose gear steering
I did not have any trouble with excessive rudder pedal pressure for control
input, but certainly have to use a lot for the brakes...as everyone else
does. I'm sure the brakes have much to do with the rudder pedal mod.
Something certainly is not right if you need anywhere near the pressure
required for brakes for rudder only.
Patrick Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cleone Markwell <cleone(at)rr1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 601 nose gear steering |
George, I now have 170 hours on my tri gear Zodiac which you flew in.
Honestly I haven't even thought about the rudder pressures for a long while
and I also fly a Cherokee so the difference isn't real great. I did the
rudder reinforcement and also put in the brake enhancer. What I do notice
is aileron pressure when making crosswind landings. I have developed the
habit of anticipating this and put in trim as I turn final. It is amazing
how much trim is needed as the plane goes from cruise to approach speed.
Since I have no hinges I wonder if it would be easier with the hinges.
Since we only have one runway at Casey we have cross winds a lot. Cleone
>
>I've just installed the nose gear bungee and the steering pushrods. With the
>airplane still on a cradle and the nose wheel and rudder not installed the
>steering effort is so high that I'm afraid I'll break the rudder pedals
>while I try to get it loosened up. I've loosened the upper stop plate so it
>isn't rubbing on the shelf, and I've greased everything that moves. I think
>the problem is the contact between the steering cross-tube on the strut and
>the lower stops (6-F-10-1). My lower stops have somewhat less slope than
>the drawing shows.
>
>The only tri-gear Zodiac I've flown in had high pedal forces in flight, but
>not while taxying. Rudder pedal forces seemed normal on the factory's
>taildragger.
>
> Have any of the rest of you tri-gear Zodiac builders experienced this
>problem, and if so, what did you do to improve the situation. I don't want
>to fly with such a stiff rudder control.
>
>I wonder if the rudder pedal reinforcement mod was made necessary by
>excessive steering force on nose gear airplanes, or was it excessive brake
>pedal force?
>
>Your experience and advice will be much appreciated.
>
>George Swinford
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | alex trent <atrent7(at)cogeco.ca> |
Cleone Markwell wrote:
>
> George, I now have 170 hours on my tri gear Zodiac which you flew in.
> I did the rudder reinforcement and also put in the brake enhancer.
What is the brake enhancer? I can certainly make use of anything that will
enhance the brakes.
alex t.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 601 nose gear steering |
| From: | Grant Corriveau <grantC(at)ca.inter.net> |
on 02/11/11 23:15, George Swinford at grs-pms(at)mindspring.com wrote:
>
> I've just installed the nose gear bungee and the steering pushrods. With the
> airplane still on a cradle and the nose wheel and rudder not installed the
> steering effort is so high that I'm afraid I'll break the rudder pedals
> while I try to get it loosened up.
How much friction was there in the bearings themselves? (I.e. did you try
turning the strut in the bearings before adding the bungee and steering
rods, etc.?). I did not initially install the UHMPE (?) -plastic- bearing
surfaces that many have, and my rudder travel was not a big problem after I
reduced the slope on the lower 'cradle'-centering mechanism.
I've seen too much wear in my top bearing hole (but very little at the
bottom). Strangely, Tony Colucci's aircraft has the opposite condition -
little wear at the top, but too much too soon at the bottom. So, we'll both
be adding the extra bearing material soon.
fwiw
--
Grant Corriveau
Montreal
Zodiac 601hds/CAM100
C-GHTF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Pahan Ranasingha <ltdoof(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | There's a new yahoo group |
Just wanted to let you all know that there's a new yahoo group called experimental
avionics...here's the link if you want to take a look
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ExperimentalAvionics/
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Owens" <owensp(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
=0D
Congratulation to Chuck on another first flight. All of us who are still
building look forward to the day when we can make out first flight, and
after all of the hours building it must be a really great feeling. Way to go
Chuck!=0D
=0D
Phil Owens=0D
CH-801 Builder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Poor <fredspoor2002(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 601 nose gear steering/ "V" notch |
Try making a shallower "V" notch (on the lower strut
support)-- next to "almost flat" and you'll find it
will work a lot easier- also you'll see less flexing
in the assembly. "Fred"
--- George Swinford wrote:
>
>
> I've just installed the nose gear bungee and the
> steering pushrods. With the
> airplane still on a cradle and the nose wheel and
> rudder not installed the
> steering effort is so high that I'm afraid I'll
> break the rudder pedals
> while I try to get it loosened up. I've loosened the
> upper stop plate so it
> isn't rubbing on the shelf, and I've greased
> everything that moves. I think
> the problem is the contact between the steering
> cross-tube on the strut and
> the lower stops (6-F-10-1). My lower stops have
> somewhat less slope than
> the drawing shows.
>
> The only tri-gear Zodiac I've flown in had high
> pedal forces in flight, but
> not while taxying. Rudder pedal forces seemed normal
> on the factory's
> taildragger.
>
> Have any of the rest of you tri-gear Zodiac
> builders experienced this
> problem, and if so, what did you do to improve the
> situation. I don't want
> to fly with such a stiff rudder control.
>
> I wonder if the rudder pedal reinforcement mod was
> made necessary by
> excessive steering force on nose gear airplanes, or
> was it excessive brake
> pedal force?
>
> Your experience and advice will be much appreciated.
>
> George Swinford
>
>
>
> Month --
> Gifts!)
> Click on the Contribution
> Terrific Free Gifts!
> Dralle, List Admin.
> _->
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos
http://launch.yahoo.com/u2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry C. McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 601 nose gear steering |
George,
I've added Delrin bearings at the nose gear top and bottom which don't
require any
serious modifications to plans construction. These are found on the gear
and firewall sections
of my web site if you're interested. They make considerable difference in
the steering forces
I agree, the cross tube is easier to rotate on a flat than with the
bottoming slopes.
I've made those guides horizontal. When you're on the ground the forces are
light
and when the plane is aloft the bungees are working you, even without nylon
guides.
Larry C. McFarland 601hds at http://www.macsmachine.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "George Swinford" <grs-pms(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: 601 nose gear steering
>
> I've just installed the nose gear bungee and the steering pushrods. With
the
> airplane still on a cradle and the nose wheel and rudder not installed the
> steering effort is so high that I'm afraid I'll break the rudder pedals
> while I try to get it loosened up. I've loosened the upper stop plate so
it
> isn't rubbing on the shelf, and I've greased everything that moves. I
think
> the problem is the contact between the steering cross-tube on the strut
and
> the lower stops (6-F-10-1). My lower stops have somewhat less slope than
> the drawing shows.
>
> The only tri-gear Zodiac I've flown in had high pedal forces in flight,
but
> not while taxying. Rudder pedal forces seemed normal on the factory's
> taildragger.
>
> Have any of the rest of you tri-gear Zodiac builders experienced this
> problem, and if so, what did you do to improve the situation. I don't want
> to fly with such a stiff rudder control.
>
> I wonder if the rudder pedal reinforcement mod was made necessary by
> excessive steering force on nose gear airplanes, or was it excessive brake
> pedal force?
>
> Your experience and advice will be much appreciated.
>
> George Swinford
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry C. McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
Alex,
Now you've got me going. What rudder reinforcement? Have I missed
something?
Cleone mentions rudder reinforcement. Don't believe I've heard of this
one.
Anyone know what this is about?
Larry C. McFarland - 601hds
----- Original Message -----
From: "alex trent" <atrent7(at)cogeco.ca>
Subject: Zenith-List: brakes
>
>
> Cleone Markwell wrote:
>
> >
> > George, I now have 170 hours on my tri gear Zodiac which you flew in.
> > I did the rudder reinforcement and also put in the brake enhancer.
>
> What is the brake enhancer? I can certainly make use of anything
that will
> enhance the brakes.
>
> alex t.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Alberti" <daberti(at)execpc.com> |
I think he's talking about the pedal reinforcement.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry C. McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: brakes
>
> Alex,
> Now you've got me going. What rudder reinforcement? Have I missed
> something?
> Cleone mentions rudder reinforcement. Don't believe I've heard of this
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry C. McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
Alex,
I understand there's a retro kit for the cylinders that provides a better
pressure
ratio to reduce effort at the pedal. Matco brakes were providing these at
Oshkosh
free of charge last year. They are for the MC-5 cylinders, if that number
is correct, and they should still be available. I need a set, just haven't
got
to it yet.
Larry C. McFarland - 601hds
----- Original Message -----
From: "alex trent" <atrent7(at)cogeco.ca>
Subject: Zenith-List: brakes
>
>
> Cleone Markwell wrote:
>
> >
> > George, I now have 170 hours on my tri gear Zodiac which you flew in.
> > I did the rudder reinforcement and also put in the brake enhancer.
>
> What is the brake enhancer? I can certainly make use of anything
that will
> enhance the brakes.
>
> alex t.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | alex trent <atrent7(at)cogeco.ca> |
Dave Alberti wrote:
>
> I think he's talking about the pedal reinforcement.
> Dave
>
It can use some of that too. I have broken one trying to get some
brake action. Not good because now you not only have no brakes but you have no
rudder or steering. Pretty scary stuff.
alex t.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Bailey <Scott(at)TheBaileyFamily.org> |
| Subject: | Actual airframe construction time. |
Quoting the Zenith web site: "The STOL CH801 kit is estimated to
require only about 750 hours to build from the complete
factory-supplied kit." I suspect build times are very individual.
Some will complete a kit in MUCH less time than others.
What experiences have list members had concerning AIRFRAME build time?
Are zenith's build time figures fairly acurate? Too low or high? If
too low, how much to low?
Scott Bailey
Potential CH801 builder
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Actual airframe construction time. |
| From: | "Carlson, Dale" <DCarlson(at)mail.dese.state.mo.us> |
I have between 900-1000 hours in my 801 airframe...but am a slow learner.
Dale Carlson
N128DC
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Bailey [mailto:Scott(at)TheBaileyFamily.org]
Subject: Zenith-List: Actual airframe construction time.
Quoting the Zenith web site: "The STOL CH801 kit is estimated to
require only about 750 hours to build from the complete
factory-supplied kit." I suspect build times are very individual.
Some will complete a kit in MUCH less time than others.
What experiences have list members had concerning AIRFRAME build time?
Are zenith's build time figures fairly acurate? Too low or high? If
too low, how much to low?
Scott Bailey
Potential CH801 builder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Liming <gary(at)liming.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Actual airframe construction time. |
>What experiences have list members had concerning AIRFRAME build time?
>Are zenith's build time figures fairly acurate? Too low or high? If
>too low, how much to low?
>
>Scott Bailey
>Potential CH801 builder
Hi Scott,
I'm just about done with my 801 airframe, at least what I can do until I
get into a hangar. - Towards that end I still have to hang and set the tail
and wings. However, for just the airframe for the 801, I don't think ZAC's
estimate is badly off, but I do think they assume you don't make any
mistakes. To be fair, it would be pretty hard to estimate an "average
builder's" mistakes. I made a few, which of course means you do it over,
and I don't think I'll end up too far past their number. A few of them
(certainly not all, by any means) were caused by mistakes in the manual,
many of which are corrected or deleted so you won't have to deal with
those. The mistakes I made are documented on my website
www.liming.org/ch801, along with everything else.
Also, there are some things I did differently from the plans, some of which
took more work, but I wanted it that way. Are you going to do that? You
probably won't know till you get there.
I know you emphasized AIRFRAME, which already shows you understand its not
total time. However, consider the time it takes to do the panel (which
can range from a FAR minimal instrument set for day VFR only, to a full up
IFR capable panel.) in any case it is fair amount of work, and then there
is hanging the engine, which is also a great deal of work, especially if
you are doing something new, and oh, you want to paint it?
In addition to all this is the amount of research you have to do, which I
wouldn't underestimate, either. Just picking an engine can be laborious
and agonizing, as you will probably change your mind a lot. There is a
huge array of choices for avionics and instruments, and this area is
changing all the time.
Therefore estimating total time is pretty difficult, but I'd say the time
ZAC's estimate may be off (say, 10-15%) isn't very meaningful compared the
mistakes and modifications you make, and to the much much larger amount of
work to be done which is entirely related to your choices on interior,
panel and engine and paint.
I know this isn't exactly the answer you wanted, but I feel it answers it
best. IF you have a completely defined airplane, including panel, engine,
and paint, and you've decided you are going to do everything yourself
(think twice about the paint) and how much practice you'll need for new
skills, then you might be able to estimate the time within 10-20%. I know
some pretty talented builders from my EAA chapter, and they all have their
share of "do-overs." So padding some percentage of ZAC's number based on
your skills is probably a good idea, but only you can really do that.
I think much of the complaining about any vendor's time estimates are based
around some of these considerations. (Search some of the other archives of
different vendors.) In any event, keep a log and you'll know
exactly. According to mine, I'm probably going to be over some, but I
don't see too much to blame on ZAC.
The rudder workshop will give you a real good feel for what you're getting
into, if this is your first plane.
Gary Liming 801 90% done, 90% to go.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Actual airframe construction time. |
| From: | Michael R Fortunato <wizard-24(at)juno.com> |
Too low -- by LOTS. Advertised build time when I bought the kit was 400
hours. While that may be true for the basic airframe for someone who is
experienced at that sort of thing, it's definitely not true for a
complete airplane by a novice. I'd say plan on doubling the amount of
time advertised, unless you're an A&P.
Mike Fortunato
601XL
> Are zenith's build time figures fairly acurate? Too low or high?
> If too low, how much to low?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Actual airframe construction time. |
In a message dated 11/13/2002 10:43:53 AM US Mountain Standard Time,
wizard-24(at)juno.com writes:
> Too low -- by LOTS. Advertised build time when I bought the kit was 400
> hours
I'm 5 years into it but I have slowed to only being able to work on the
project 1 weekend day a week for 6 to 8 hours. But there are several listers
who have completeed entire planes in less than a year, and many mroe who have
done it in two. I figure my actual construction time is around 1,200 hours
now, but that included all of the panel and engine stuff, which ZAC does not
include in their estimate. Their build times are for FWB only.
I hope everyone is having a great fall season. It is Beautiful here in AZ.
Steve (stuck at 90%) Freeman
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Attn: Bill Morelli |
Hi Bill,
You gotta be hating me buy now and I apologize for not getting you that
drawing. I have not fogotten. What happened was is I started making the tpe
of canopy shroud of George Pinneos design. Once I started doing the glass
work I am unable to get into the cockpoit to get that tracing for you until I
am done, which should be this Sunday. IF you still need the tracing please
let me know. I sincerely apologize, I am usually more reliable.
thanks,
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Morelli <billvt(at)together.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Attn: Bill Morelli |
Steve,
No need to apologize. I know how it is when you get deep into building.
I would still like a tracing when you get a chance. I have not replaced my
failing RC Allen gyro horizon. I covered it up for now but plan on
replacing it. I would like to know if the Falcon is physically the same.
Thanks,
Bill
>
>Hi Bill,
>
>You gotta be hating me buy now and I apologize for not getting you that
>drawing. I have not fogotten. What happened was is I started making the tpe
>of canopy shroud of George Pinneos design. Once I started doing the glass
>work I am unable to get into the cockpoit to get that tracing for you until I
>am done, which should be this Sunday. IF you still need the tracing please
>let me know. I sincerely apologize, I am usually more reliable.
>
>thanks,
>
>Steve
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dave" <dave(at)netbase.net> |
Hi Folks
I just received my Flight permit in the mail :
))))))))
YAHOOOOOOOOOOO
Oct 1/01 i started on my 601 XL ( my first project )
Oct 19/02 Final inspection
560 hrs later..................( including paint )
Ready to fly.( I still can't believe i did it )
ZAC claims 500 hrs. i think?
Now to fly................
dave(at)netbase.net
C-FDSF 601 XL 0235 Lyc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Actual airframe construction time. |
| From: | Bob & Karen Risch <bkrisch(at)ouraynet.com> |
I would say 750 hours may be a bit optimistic but not extremely so. I would
guess that I had between 800 and 900 hours in the airframe but cannot be
certain as I would get diverted into wiring, instruments, etc. fwiw - I
certainly enjoyed the building process most of the time.
bob
--
> From: Scott Bailey <Scott(at)TheBaileyFamily.org>
> Reply-To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 07:16:03 -0700 (MST)
> To: Zenith List
> Subject: Zenith-List: Actual airframe construction time.
>
>
> Quoting the Zenith web site: "The STOL CH801 kit is estimated to
> require only about 750 hours to build from the complete
> factory-supplied kit." I suspect build times are very individual.
> Some will complete a kit in MUCH less time than others.
>
> What experiences have list members had concerning AIRFRAME build time?
> Are zenith's build time figures fairly acurate? Too low or high? If
> too low, how much to low?
>
> Scott Bailey
> Potential CH801 builder
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 11/12/02 |
| From: | Greg P Jannakos <gpjann(at)juno.com> |
G Jannakos
6-4211 601 HDS
Plans building 70%
I talked to Matco at Oshkosh mentioning problems I heard about. His
explanation was the geometry may be wrong, that is the angle of the
cylinder to the linkage. He may be able to help you.
Also
I installed heel brakes.
Try it, you'll like it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Liming <gary(at)liming.org> |
In the March 2001 issue of Sport Aviation, there is a good article on fuel
systems. In that article its shows some of the hose fittings, and shows
one of the "Earl's" blue and read type fittings that are sold in speed
shops that appear to be fine, and which are used by a lot of homebuilders
as shown on their websites.
Why aren't the racing hoses fitting ok to use?
Thanks,
Gary Liming
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dhodges <dhodges(at)empacc.net> |
| Subject: | Understanding blueprints! |
Hi All,
I just decided that I dont understand some of the prints when
dealing with curves(radius). Am finishing the elev, and am stumped by
the r1/8" and r1/4" terms. I thought it meant that the radius of the
curve was 1/4 inches?? I now I should know this but thought I would ask
you guys before I drop the dime to ZAC. Tnx....Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RoyN9869L(at)aol.com |
I have had to bite the bullet and it seems that building a CH-701 is the only
option that will meet my standards. I am looking for clecos and I thought
perhaps those of you that have completed your project and flying would be
interested in selling your tools at least the clecos and pliers. I had posted
a request for these items a couple of months ago but there was no reply so I
thought I'd give it another try. On the other hand where can I purchase
them? Thanks for you help
R. Roy
CH-701
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Deiterich" <cfd(at)thegateway.net> |
"Topolnitsky, Wayne " ,
"Mulloy, Charles" , "Levandowski, Stan" ,
"Butler, John" ,
"Boultinghouse, Chris" ,
"Barry Mayne" , "Barr, Mel "
----- Original Message -----
From: Chuck Deiterich
Subject: My First Flight
I flew N701TX for the first time today (Nov 13) for 0.8 hour. I did some high
speed taxi tests yesterday. The plane accelerates fast and I was airborne almost
before I was ready. Very uneventful flight. Easy to fly, left wing seems
heavy, it could be spring holding down elevator cable to the side away from up
elevator cable, or pilot in left seat. Circled the airport at 3500 feet, did
turns and slow flight then landed, not my worst or best landing. Approached
at 50 to 60 mph and carried power all the way down as it slows quickly.
As suspected, the tachometer reads low as I checked it in flight with a handheld
optical tach, I may have to adjust the magnetic pickup spacing.
The upturn on the trailing edge of the elevator overpowers the trim tab. I will
make a bigger trim tab and try it, but eventually I will probably bend the TE
down. The Jabiru 2200 performed well. I have no quantitative data but it seemed
close to ZAC's performance with the Rotax 912. Of course I was solo with
about 19 gal. Cruise seemed about 65 mph at 2700 rpm. GPS seems to confirm
IAS readings. Air temp was about 60 F. CHT's at cruise was about 250 F and 300
F in climb. Oil temp about 160 F.
When I calm down I'll try to get some better data.
Regards,
Chuck D.
Big Grins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Rozema <hartist1(at)cox.net> |
I'm still building so not much help accept I bought mine from ZAC with the kit
and never been sorry. It wastes a lot of time looking for anything that you can
get from ZAC and be sure it is right for your kit. There are 3 sizes of clecos
required just as a heads up. Some have complained that the pliers broke, but
mine are fine and I'm nearly done with the fuselage (all wing and tail components
done and ready to hang) Give Nick a call and he'll put everything you need
(quantities and all).
Hal
theplanefolks.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Alberti" <daberti(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Understanding blueprints! |
it is inches, I don't know why the flip-flop between metric and inch
dimensions.
perhaps it's because most brakes have inch radii specifications for
adjustments.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "dhodges" <dhodges(at)empacc.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: Understanding blueprints!
>
> Hi All,
>
> I just decided that I dont understand some of the prints when
> dealing with curves(radius). Am finishing the elev, and am stumped by
> the r1/8" and r1/4" terms. I thought it meant that the radius of the
> curve was 1/4 inches?? I now I should know this but thought I would ask
> you guys before I drop the dime to ZAC. Tnx....Dave
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Wanted: Engine Baffle for the O-235 |
I am looking to purchase an engine baffle for an O-235. It does not have to
be new. Ideally, a baffle off a Cessna 150, or one from an engine upgrade
would be perfect.
I am installing an O-235 N2C on a RV-9A. Vans does not sell the engine
baffle, nor a kit, nor the plans - for this combination.
I would install it (modify the top to cowling interface) - or use it as a
template for making my own. I believe that the engine to baffle dimensions
are critical, but the baffle to cowling is pretty easy.
Does anyone know where I buy one, perhaps someone on the list??
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
Finish Kit 85% Complete
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Deiterich" <cfd(at)thegateway.net> |
Try Brown Tool 1-800-587-3883 or www.browntool.com.
I've gotten several things from them: a snake drill and bits and clecos
(their brand is Kwik-Lok) but are the same. The 1/8 " are about $.33 each.
Chuck D.
Subject: Zenith-List: Need Clecos
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Golovich" <john(at)golovich.com> |
| Subject: | Connection Stabilizer and Elevator |
I thought I was done with the tail section until I was clecoing the fiberglass
tips on tonight. Turns out the elevator hinges that are riveted to the tip ribs
were not lined up perfectly.
Looks like I am drilling out the rib tips and replacing them with new ones. This
time though, I am going to really mark this thing up so I have no problems
getting them to lign up perfectly.
Can anyone share any additional tips they may have for this section?
Thanks
John
________________________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <kkinney(at)fuse.net> |
I bought many of my clecos, used, from http://www.yardstore.com/. Any time I've done buisness with them, I've been impressed with their speed & service.
I paid .25 each and while they aren't new & shiny, only 1 out of the hundreds I
bought didn't work properly.
On the whole, this is better than the ones I bought NEW from an undisclosed vendor.
A few of the new ones came without the top plunger.
By the way, some of the copper colored clecoes were stubby and had a longer draw
length. These came in handy when attaching thicker materials, like the bellcrank
hinge and other extruded L angles.
If you're looking at cleco tools, there are spiff pneumatic cleco tools out there.
Search the archives for my name & "pneumatic cleco" for a link to one site.
Regards,
Kevin Kinney
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Build time for Homebuilts |
| From: | charles.long(at)gm.com |
11/14/2002 11:03:39 AM
I'm guessing 2-3 times the Factory numbers. This would be fairly
typical across the industry. If I were to build a 2nd plane, I'm sure I'd
be a lot faster. But, after a few mistakes here and there, you tend to be
gun shy about working too fast. The extra time taken to double check
things pays big dividends. You avoid the extra expense, and frustration of
building parts more than once. The important thing is to devote X number
of hours per month on the project. In my case it turns out to be 30-35
hours. Avoid long periods of inactivity. I took a one year break and it
was very difficult to get myself going again. Over a period of months you
see pretty good progress. It gets exciting when all the major components
are finished and you start putting them together! The bottom line is at 30
hours / month, I can get a Zenith built in 2-3 years. An RV or some other
more labor intensive plane will probably take 5-10 years. It can make the
difference between success or failure for a lot of us.
What experiences have list members had concerning AIRFRAME build
time?
Are zenith's build time figures fairly acurate? Too low or high? If
too low, how much to low?
Scott Bailey
Potential CH801 builder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pinneo, George" <George.Pinneo(at)trw.com> |
One of Earl's blue-anodized 3/8" diam. fittings broke after 114 hours on my initial
912 oil system. Suggest you DON'T use them: they're poorly made and break
from vibration. Swagelok or (maybe even Parker) stainless steel are a lot stronger
and probably won't break.
GGP
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Build time for Homebuilts |
| From: | "Pinneo, George" <George.Pinneo(at)trw.com> |
At the risk of being obtuse, why would you worry, too much, about how long it takes
you to build something you'll fly for 5-15 years?
I didn't track hours; it took me 18 months from big box to first flight. I wanted
the hardware to look reasonably good, be strong enough and work well.
I've built 4 sets of main gear fairings so far; I need to do another version of
the Nosewheel fairing sometime soon. I've installed 2 sets of main wing fairings.
Hours? I don't know or care.
GGP
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Actual airframe construction time. |
Hi All - It makes a big difference in how much you prepare the
metal before riviting. I'm planing on floats and here in florida our warm
water has high salinity. After fitting drilling and deburring, I must
disassemble, acid wash with scotch pad, treat with alodyne conversion coating
and prime then reassemble and then rivit. Its taken me about 900 hrs to
complete the airframe but I believe it will last longer than if I had skipped
these extra steps. Its also true that, after learning the cost of mistakes in
time and money, you double check twice before cutting or making holes. Its
been fun and I think I'll do it again. chip muldoon doon47(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Bailey <Scott(at)TheBaileyFamily.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Actual airframe construction time. |
Which aircraft are you building?
Doon47(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi All - It makes a big difference in how much you prepare the
>metal before riviting. I'm planing on floats and here in florida our warm
>water has high salinity. After fitting drilling and deburring, I must
>disassemble, acid wash with scotch pad, treat with alodyne conversion coating
>and prime then reassemble and then rivit. Its taken me about 900 hrs to
>complete the airframe but I believe it will last longer than if I had skipped
>these extra steps. Its also true that, after learning the cost of mistakes in
>time and money, you double check twice before cutting or making holes. Its
>been fun and I think I'll do it again. chip muldoon doon47(at)aol.com
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Wanted: Engine Baffle for the O-235 |
Hello John, and others:
Thanks for replying promptly. The baffle is the "shroud" installed on the
top of the engine that directs the inflow air from the front opening over
the engine then forces it down through the cylinder cooling fins, then out
the bottom, hence cooling all of the cylinders. Normally, it is a sort of
aluminum cage that completely encircles the top of the engine and cylinders,
and extends upward to the cowling. Often, the oil cooler is mounted on the
rear of it. A flexible heat resistant material is attached to the top to
form a tight seal with the cowling. If it is fancy, people will call it a
plenum. The engine will overheat without it ~;)
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
Finish Kit 85% Complete
From: "John Golovich" <john(at)golovich.com>
> I am not sure what a baffle is, but if you explain it I may just have it.
I
> have a crated up o-235 in my garage that I was planning on rebuilding but
> ave decided to just part it out.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gower <ggower_99(at)yahoo.com> |
Other than the "normal" Aircraft Spruce, Wicks, etc... If you live
in USA, just visit any mayor fly in and in the "Flea Market" they will
be lost for sale...
Or if you are foreign like me, is a good reason to visit Sun & Fun or
Oskosh... like the 100 dls hamburger :-) famous with pilots (you
spend 93 dls of fuel to eat a 7 dolar hamburger).
Saludos
Gary Gower
--- RoyN9869L(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I have had to bite the bullet and it seems that building a CH-701 is
> the only
> option that will meet my standards. I am looking for clecos and I
> thought
> perhaps those of you that have completed your project and flying
> would be
> interested in selling your tools at least the clecos and pliers. I
> had posted
> a request for these items a couple of months ago but there was no
> reply so I
> thought I'd give it another try. On the other hand where can I
> purchase
> them? Thanks for you help
>
> R. Roy
>
> CH-701
>
>
>
> Contribution
> Gifts!
> _->
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Danielson" <steved(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Deburring Techniques |
I was watching the latest ZAC STOL demo tape, and I got to the part where
they show how to do construction. When they got to deburring, the person in
the video took some sort of file, and whizzed it up and down inside the skin
of the rudder. It took like 10 seconds to do one whole side of the rudder
skin. I have tried to imitate that technique on some scratch material, but
it seems like I would get too many scratches on my skins. I have seen some
mention in the manuals about rounding off the edges of a fine double cut
file to use for deburring, but I do not have the right tool to do smooth the
edges of my file (actually, not even sure what the right tool would be, a
grinder?) And maybe I am not using the right kind of file?
What are folks using to debur (I have been twirling a countersink by hand,
but if you can really do it like on the video....)
Steve Danielson
Wake Forest NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michel Therrien <mtherr(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Deburring Techniques |
The double edge deburring tool did not work for me...
I don't know if it is the tool or operator, but it
removes too much material from the edge of the sheets.
For deburring holes, one of my friend showed me how he
did with a file as you mention. I broke a 2.5" piece
from a fine file and i simply rub that against the
sheet. It removes burr very effectively and very
rapidly. The sheet is not damaged. The next step is
to sand with either a 320 gritt paper or with the
green scotch brite (which is also the preparation for
priming).
Michel
--- Steve Danielson wrote:
>
>
> I was watching the latest ZAC STOL demo tape, and I
> got to the part where
> they show how to do construction. When they got to
> deburring, the person in
> the video took some sort of file, and whizzed it up
> and down inside the skin
> of the rudder. It took like 10 seconds to do one
> whole side of the rudder
> skin. I have tried to imitate that technique on some
> scratch material, but
> it seems like I would get too many scratches on my
> skins. I have seen some
> mention in the manuals about rounding off the edges
> of a fine double cut
> file to use for deburring, but I do not have the
> right tool to do smooth the
> edges of my file (actually, not even sure what the
> right tool would be, a
> grinder?) And maybe I am not using the right kind of
> file?
>
> What are folks using to debur (I have been twirling
> a countersink by hand,
> but if you can really do it like on the video....)
>
> Steve Danielson
> Wake Forest NC
>
>
>
> Month --
> Gifts!)
> Click on the Contribution
> Terrific Free Gifts!
> Dralle, List Admin.
> _->
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brent Battles <brentbattles(at)pipeline.com> |
| Subject: | Nose gear bungee replacement |
I just replaced my nose gear bungee after 611 landings over the space of
2.5 years and 385 hours of flying. The outer braid was fraying a bit around
the gear leg pegs, and the bungee had stretched somewhat although only
enough to show about a 3/8 inch gap between the retainer cap and the
firewall shelf. Having long wondered how much of a project this might be,
I thought I'd pass along my experience to others.
Replacement took me less than an hour, and was a simple process involving
the following steps:
1) support nose using rope around engine supported by an engine hoist
2) disconnect steering rods
3) slowly cut old bungee and remove
4) remove retaining cap
5) remove forward half of lower bearing
6) tilt lower end of gear leg forward and drop sufficiently to fit new bungee
over rear hook and behind retaining rod on firewall
7) guide top end of gear leg upward into position below top bearing hole
8) reinstall fowrard half of lower bearing
9) using large screwdriver, lift loose end of bungee loop over forward peg on
gear leg
10) reinstall and safety retaining cap screws
Nothing else required removal.
The main gear bungees appear not to have worn at all and show no more than
1/4" of stretching at most judging from gap between wings and retaining
caps.
Regards,
Brent Battles N16BZ 601HD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim and Lucy <jpollard(at)mnsi.net> |
| Subject: | hds wing tank drawings |
Are there any drawings for the hds le wing tanks.
A couple years ago there were none and I made
some progress making some but lost them when
that computer died.
thanks
Jim Pollard
ch601hds
ea-81
fitting cowling
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "doug" <dm10495(at)cedarnet.org> |
How many fasteners does it take for the cowl to fuselage and to join the two
fuselage halves?
Also How did you 601XL guys run your brake lines and did you use the ZAC
supplied tubing?
Doug Mattson
601 XL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brent Battles <brentbattles(at)pipeline.com> |
| Subject: | Travels in my Zodie |
I just returned from 70 hours of cross-country flying in my 601HD starting
in Western North Carolina, passing through TN, MO, NB, WY, ID, WA, OR, CA,
AZ, NM,
TX, OK, AR, TN again, and then home. I camped 3 nights, had 6 days of
weather delays (high winds 3 days, rain & low ceilings the other 3 days).
Flew two legs of 4.1 hours as my longest flights. Fuel burn was a steady 4
gph, used just short of 1 quart of oil. Used Alcor (TCP) to scavenge lead
from 100LL, with no evidence of lead build up on plugs and a fine film of
lead showing on exhaust stack tips and alongside belly mounted radiator
just aft of exhaust exits leading me to believe the dispersant was working
pretty well.
Once I get my photos organized and a little narrative written, I'll post my
tale on my website's "Flying" page. I'll also post recent maintenance
actions as well on my "Maintenance" page.
One of many trip highlights was taking my 4 year old grandson up (my 109th
passenger and 144th passenger flight) and my son (a newly minted private
pilot himself) immediately before him.
Thanks to Emil Berberov (whom I met at the Zenith Open Hangar Day) and his
wife Christina for graciously putting me up during my stop in Lincoln, NB.
Emil is on the verge of starting a 601XL.
Regards,
Brent Battles N16BZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dave" <dave(at)netbase.net> |
I used 4 dzus fasteners per side of cowl.
Brake lines are plastic supplied by ZAC.
I fastened the lines to the rear of the gear leg with 4 tie wraps per side,and
then ran a bead of contact cement along. allowed it to set up and then removed
tie wraps.
Looks nice and neat.
dave(at)netbase.net
C-FDSF 601 XL 0235 Lyc.will test fly as soon as weather permits
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Weston, Jim" <Jim.Weston(at)delta.com> |
| Subject: | Nose gear bungee replacement |
Thanks. I've wondered about this process also. I'll be facing the same
replacement during the condition inspection this spring. What you describe
is what I envisioned. Good to have it confirmed.
Thanks Again,
Jim Weston N601JW 601HDS
-----Original Message-----
From: Brent Battles [mailto:brentbattles(at)pipeline.com]
Subject: Zenith-List: Nose gear bungee replacement
I just replaced my nose gear bungee after 611 landings over the space of
2.5 years and 385 hours of flying. The outer braid was fraying a bit around
the gear leg pegs, and the bungee had stretched somewhat although only
enough to show about a 3/8 inch gap between the retainer cap and the
firewall shelf. Having long wondered how much of a project this might be,
I thought I'd pass along my experience to others.
Replacement took me less than an hour, and was a simple process involving
the following steps:
1) support nose using rope around engine supported by an engine hoist
2) disconnect steering rods
3) slowly cut old bungee and remove
4) remove retaining cap
5) remove forward half of lower bearing
6) tilt lower end of gear leg forward and drop sufficiently to fit new
bungee
over rear hook and behind retaining rod on firewall
7) guide top end of gear leg upward into position below top bearing hole
8) reinstall fowrard half of lower bearing
9) using large screwdriver, lift loose end of bungee loop over forward peg
on
gear leg
10) reinstall and safety retaining cap screws
Nothing else required removal.
The main gear bungees appear not to have worn at all and show no more than
1/4" of stretching at most judging from gap between wings and retaining
caps.
Regards,
Brent Battles N16BZ 601HD
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: hds wing tank drawings |
| From: | Grant Corriveau <grantC(at)ca.inter.net> |
on 02/11/14 22:49, Jim and Lucy at jpollard(at)mnsi.net wrote:
>
> Are there any drawings for the hds le wing tanks.
> A couple years ago there were none and I made
> some progress making some but lost them when
> that computer died.
Jim, I recieved a drawing from Zenair along with my le tanks. Maybe they
are available on the internet site (maybe as part of the XL drawings?... Or
perhaps Nick can send them to you as a .pdf document?
If not, let me know. I don't have my scanner connected, but I could dig it
out (or use my digital camera) to make an image and send it to you.
--
Grant Corriveau
Montreal
Zodiac 601hds/CAM100
C-GHTF
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nose gear bungee replacement |
| From: | Grant Corriveau <grantC(at)ca.inter.net> |
on 02/11/14 22:52, Brent Battles at brentbattles(at)pipeline.com wrote:
> Replacement took me less than an hour, and was a simple process involving
> the following steps:
>
> 1) support nose using rope around engine supported by an engine hoist
...
Brent,
Thanks for posting this. Has anyone done the mains...? Or changed a tire?
(i.e. how did you jack the aircraft?)... these kinds of maintenance
procedures I find helpful. Not only as a checklist that I didn't forget
anything, but also as a way of planning and saving time not having to figure
it out and/or make an expensive mistake. fwiw, here's my checklist for wing
removal/reinstallation
----------------------------------------------
Maintenance Procedure: Wing Removal
Tools: Fuel containers; funnel; 3/8 wrench; Phillips screw driver; Socket
wrench; torque wrench; sockets and wrenches for 7/16; 1/2; 9/16 -- and one
willing helper.
Remove drains and empty the fuel tanks
Support Wing
Remove the wing splice covers
Detach:
- electrical connectors for: fuel pumps/gauges; lights; trim motor
- pitot/static lines (left wing)
- fuel lines
Remove trailing edge spar bolts (7/16)
Remove the leading edge screw/bolts
Loosen Main Spar center wing bolts (6 each @ 1/2 in. nuts)
Loosen/Remove Main Spar outbd wing bolts (4 each @ 9/16 inches)
Slide wing outwards to remove - extra pair of hands required
Completed by: ________________Date: ________________
Reinstallation
Support and align wing and carefully engage
- the main spar between the plates;
- Trailing edge spar (outboard tab goes on aft side of main spar plate);
- and leading edge tabs (outboard tab slides inside the center wing skin
panel); - the lower skin clips (3).
Use a tapered tool to align holes and slide bolts (AN6 * 4) into holes.
Check the rear spar alignment (the outboard tab goes aft of the center wing
spar. There is some overlap of the outboard spar doubler, and this should go
on the fwd side of the center wing Z)
Install the AN3 bolt in the rear spar
Install the fwd skin screw/bolt
Reinstall/connect the fuel lines
Reconnect the wires for fuel pumps/gauges; trim motor; lights
Reconnect the pitot/static lines
Test fuel gauges/pumps/lights/trim
Reinstall wing splice cover plate
Completed by: ________________Date: ________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Bailey <Scott(at)TheBaileyFamily.org> |
| Subject: | Build time for Homebuilts |
My interest in the time it takes to build MY aircraft is mainly as
follows:
1. Most importantly, is the manufacturer honestly representing
themselves?
2. Will I be able to complete the project in a reasonable amount of
time? For morale, it is important that we see a certain amount of
progress month to month.
3. I choose to be informed about anything I purchase that is more
expensive than $200. The more expensive, the more informed I like
to be. Sixty-thousand dollars is significantly greater than two
hundred.
4. My primary transportation will be unprotected while I build the
airplane.
I, too, want the hardware to look reasonably good, be safe,
dependable, and durable. I intend to build an aircraft I could fly
for as many as 30 years. I want to enjoy researching the project,
building the project, and flying the project.
Scott Bailey
On Thu, 14 Nov 2002, Pinneo, George wrote:
>
> At the risk of being obtuse, why would you worry, too much, about how long it
takes you to build something you'll fly for 5-15 years?
>
> I didn't track hours; it took me 18 months from big box to first flight. I wanted
the hardware to look reasonably good, be strong enough and work well.
>
> I've built 4 sets of main gear fairings so far; I need to do another version
of the Nosewheel fairing sometime soon. I've installed 2 sets of main wing fairings.
Hours? I don't know or care.
>
> GGP
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Actual airframe construction time. |
Hi all - My thoroughly primed ch 701 took about 900 hrs to complete the
airframe
chip muldoon doon47(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Townsend" <mark.townsend(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl fasteners |
I used a router and cut a 1/4 inch grove along the backside of the gear leg
to recess the plastic brake line. Didn't want to use any tie wraps.
Mark Townsend
601XL EA-82 MPFI Turbo
-----Original Message-----
From: doug <dm10495(at)cedarnet.org>
Date: Thursday, November 14, 2002 10:56 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Cowl fasteners
>
>How many fasteners does it take for the cowl to fuselage and to join the
two
>fuselage halves?
>Also How did you 601XL guys run your brake lines and did you use the ZAC
>supplied tubing?
>Doug Mattson
>601 XL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Austin" <daveaustin2(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Nosegear bungee replacement |
Mine almost totally failed, giving 3 to 4 inches of gear leg above the upper
bearing. If it had gone completely, the only thing stopping it from driving
right up through the cowl would have been first the steering arms and then
the bottom bearing/fork impact. Has anyone done anything to prevent real
damage?
I changed the bungee exactly as described - no problem. Now on my third.
Dave Austin 601HDS - 912 - 525 hrs - 9 years.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cowl fasteners |
| From: | Grant Corriveau <grantC(at)ca.inter.net> |
on 02/11/15 09:53, Mark Townsend at mark.townsend(at)sympatico.ca wrote:
>
>
> I used a router and cut a 1/4 inch grove along the backside of the gear leg
> to recess the plastic brake line. Didn't want to use any tie wraps.
Won't a 1/4 inch groove in the gear leg cause a stress point and possible
failure of the gear leg eventually?
--
Grant Corriveau
Montreal
Zodiac 601hds/CAM100
C-GHTF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gower <ggower_99(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Deburring Techniques |
What we use here, is a bigger diameter bit, we rap around some masking
tape to make a smooth handle and with one turn twist with the fingers,
the hole is perfectly debured.
Saludos
Gary Gower
--- Michel Therrien wrote:
>
> The double edge deburring tool did not work for me...
> I don't know if it is the tool or operator, but it
> removes too much material from the edge of the sheets.
>
> For deburring holes, one of my friend showed me how he
> did with a file as you mention. I broke a 2.5" piece
> from a fine file and i simply rub that against the
> sheet. It removes burr very effectively and very
> rapidly. The sheet is not damaged. The next step is
> to sand with either a 320 gritt paper or with the
> green scotch brite (which is also the preparation for
> priming).
>
> Michel
>
> --- Steve Danielson wrote:
> >
> >
> > I was watching the latest ZAC STOL demo tape, and I
> > got to the part where
> > they show how to do construction. When they got to
> > deburring, the person in
> > the video took some sort of file, and whizzed it up
> > and down inside the skin
> > of the rudder. It took like 10 seconds to do one
> > whole side of the rudder
> > skin. I have tried to imitate that technique on some
> > scratch material, but
> > it seems like I would get too many scratches on my
> > skins. I have seen some
> > mention in the manuals about rounding off the edges
> > of a fine double cut
> > file to use for deburring, but I do not have the
> > right tool to do smooth the
> > edges of my file (actually, not even sure what the
> > right tool would be, a
> > grinder?) And maybe I am not using the right kind of
> > file?
> >
> > What are folks using to debur (I have been twirling
> > a countersink by hand,
> > but if you can really do it like on the video....)
> >
> > Steve Danielson
> > Wake Forest NC
> >
> >
> >
> > Month --
> > Gifts!)
> > Click on the Contribution
> > Terrific Free Gifts!
> > Dralle, List Admin.
> > _->
> > Contributions of
> > any other form
> >
> > latest messages.
> > other List members.
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > http://www.matronics.com/search
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> =====
> ----------------------------
> Michel Therrien CH601-HD
> http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
> http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
> http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
>
>
>
> Contribution
> Gifts!
> _->
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gower <ggower_99(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl fasteners |
--- Grant Corriveau wrote:
>
>
> on 02/11/15 09:53, Mark Townsend at mark.townsend(at)sympatico.ca wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > I used a router and cut a 1/4 inch grove along the backside of the
> gear leg
> > to recess the plastic brake line. Didn't want to use any tie wraps.
>
> Won't a 1/4 inch groove in the gear leg cause a stress point and
> possible
> failure of the gear leg eventually?
> --
> Grant Corriveau
Grant,
I dont think so... The Kitfox legs come from the factory with the same
grove, One Kitfox 6 here uses this system.
Saludos
Gary Gower
701 912S
Guadalajara, Jalisco, Mexico
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Townsend" <mark.townsend(at)sympatico.ca> |
Guess I should add to this, I didn't chamfer the edges of the monoleaf gear
leg so I gained material there, and the groove is no larger then what Groves
would have done if they had gundrilled it. I asked Chris Heintz at the
Midland open house in the summer if it was OK to do and received his
blessing.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: Grant Corriveau <grantC(at)ca.inter.net>
>>
>>
>> I used a router and cut a 1/4 inch grove along the backside of the gear
leg
>> to recess the plastic brake line. Didn't want to use any tie wraps.
>
>Won't a 1/4 inch groove in the gear leg cause a stress point and possible
>failure of the gear leg eventually?
>--
>Grant Corriveau
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Grant Corriveau <grantC(at)ca.inter.net> |
on 02/11/15 14:41, Mark Townsend at mark.townsend(at)sympatico.ca wrote:
>
>
> Guess I should add to this, I didn't chamfer the edges of the monoleaf gear
> leg so I gained material there, and the groove is no larger then what Groves
> would have done if they had gundrilled it. I asked Chris Heintz at the
> Midland open house in the summer if it was OK to do and received his
> blessing.
> Mark
I'm picturing the strut-tube gear legs of my HDS - but as you mention
monoleaf, I'm guessing this is an XL spring steel leg you're working on...?
I can see that this might be different ...
Thanks for clarifying,
Grant
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "billvt(at)together.net" <billvt(at)together.net> |
| Subject: | Nose gear bungee replacement |
Brent,
I have 277 landings and have noticed a fair amount of wear on my lower nose
gear bearing even though I have UHM added to slow the wear. I plan on
making a new lower bearing when I change my bungee.
Did you find much wear on your lower bearing??
Regards,
Bill
5) remove forward half of lower bearing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "billvt(at)together.net" <billvt(at)together.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose gear bungee replacement |
Grant,
I pulled my main gear boxes on my annual last year. I used a floor jack
under the wing. Between the jack and wing was a large piece of carpeted
plywood to distribute the load. When I got the wheel off the floor, I
placed a saw horse (carpet covered) longways (front to back) under the
center wing near the gear. Then did the same on the other side. I also
added a horse under the tail to stabilize it.
Regards,
Bill
Original Message:
-----------------
From: Grant Corriveau grantC(at)ca.inter.net
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 09:26:17 -0500
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Nose gear bungee replacement
on 02/11/14 22:52, Brent Battles at brentbattles(at)pipeline.com wrote:
> Replacement took me less than an hour, and was a simple process involving
> the following steps:
>
> 1) support nose using rope around engine supported by an engine hoist
...
Brent,
Thanks for posting this. Has anyone done the mains...? Or changed a tire?
(i.e. how did you jack the aircraft?)... these kinds of maintenance
procedures I find helpful. Not only as a checklist that I didn't forget
anything, but also as a way of planning and saving time not having to figure
it out and/or make an expensive mistake. fwiw, here's my checklist for wing
removal/reinstallation
----------------------------------------------
Maintenance Procedure: Wing Removal
Tools: Fuel containers; funnel; 3/8 wrench; Phillips screw driver; Socket
wrench; torque wrench; sockets and wrenches for 7/16; 1/2; 9/16 -- and one
willing helper.
Remove drains and empty the fuel tanks
Support Wing
Remove the wing splice covers
Detach:
- electrical connectors for: fuel pumps/gauges; lights; trim motor
- pitot/static lines (left wing)
- fuel lines
Remove trailing edge spar bolts (7/16)
Remove the leading edge screw/bolts
Loosen Main Spar center wing bolts (6 each @ 1/2 in. nuts)
Loosen/Remove Main Spar outbd wing bolts (4 each @ 9/16 inches)
Slide wing outwards to remove - extra pair of hands required
Completed by: ________________Date: ________________
Reinstallation
Support and align wing and carefully engage
- the main spar between the plates;
- Trailing edge spar (outboard tab goes on aft side of main spar plate);
- and leading edge tabs (outboard tab slides inside the center wing skin
panel); - the lower skin clips (3).
Use a tapered tool to align holes and slide bolts (AN6 * 4) into holes.
Check the rear spar alignment (the outboard tab goes aft of the center wing
spar. There is some overlap of the outboard spar doubler, and this should go
on the fwd side of the center wing Z)
Install the AN3 bolt in the rear spar
Install the fwd skin screw/bolt
Reinstall/connect the fuel lines
Reconnect the wires for fuel pumps/gauges; trim motor; lights
Reconnect the pitot/static lines
Test fuel gauges/pumps/lights/trim
Reinstall wing splice cover plate
Completed by: ________________Date: ________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Swinford" <grs-pms(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | 601 nose gear bungee removal |
To add my two cents worth to the nose gear removal issue:
In trying to reduce my nose gear friction I have already installed and removed
the bungee several times. I made a tool out of a short length of one inch tubing
by cutting a 45 degree slice off one end and smoothing and rounding the edge
on that end. I can force the tool between the installed bungee and the front
tube on the strut, then ease the bungee away from the strut until I can tilt
the tube downward and let the bungee slide off.
To reinstall I place the tool on the front nose gear tube with the 45 degree bevel
down, slide the bungee onto the tool, lever the tool upward and slide the
bungee onto the front tube on the strut.
The 45 degree bevel makes it easy to put the tool on the front tube with a good
downward inclination. I used a 6 inch length of copper pipe which I found at
the home supply store. Any sort of tube or pipe would work and a 12 inch length
would be better, since I have to put a length of broom handle into the tool
for better leverage.
Using this tool reduces the possibility of damaging the bungee while prying with
a screwdriver.
George Swinford
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Maxson" <pmaxpmax(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | XL - Can I Put It on Its Wheels Yet? |
I have completed riveting and bolting together the forward fuselage. It
doesn't yet have the canopy or the rear top skins. Is it OK to put it on
the gear? I was worried that without the rear top skins, the tail would sag
out of line.
I'd like to get it off the bench if I can.
Thanks,
Phil Maxson
601XL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brent Battles <brentbattles(at)pipeline.com> |
| Subject: | Nose gear bungee replacement |
>Did you find much wear on your lower bearing??
Hi Bill,
I also have UHMWP bearing reinforcements on all gear legs. I found no wear
at all on the lower bearing. The top bearing shows a small amount of wear,
but nothing worth correcting just yet. I may add a UHMWP ring later. I
did install a thin ring above the firewall shelf to prevent metal-to-metal
rubbing when the top retaining plate is in contact with the firewall shelf.
Regards,
Brent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | LOC Coming Soon... |
Dear Listers,
This year's List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner. I'll be
posting the LOC on or about December 1. The List of Contributors is a
directory of everyone's name that made a Contribution during this year's
List Fund Raiser. Its kind of my way of publicly thanking everyone that so
generously made a Contribution to support the continued operation and
upgrade of these Lists.
Support your Lists today and make sure that your name is on the upcoming
LOC! Your friends will be checking no doubt to see if YOU make your
Contribution because THEY did! :-)
Support Contribution Info - http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Deiterich" <cfd(at)thegateway.net> |
Now that my 701 has flown, I want to thank all the members of this list who helped
me and kept me at it.
ZAC has always been there with patience and good advice. ZAC promptly replaced
several parts that were not quite right and without question.
I ordered my Jabiru 2200 before Pete Krotje (Jabiru USA Flight Center, LLC) got
started. But he has been very helpful with the engine installation, maintenance
and operating tips and is helping me get my tachometer squared away. Even
though I got my engine from someone else, he has always been responsive including
returning my calls. He is a class act.
Chuck Deiterich
N701TX
Jabiru 2200
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: XL - Can I Put It on Its Wheels Yet? |
| From: | wizard-24(at)juno.com |
> I have completed riveting and bolting together the forward fuselage.
> It doesn't yet have the canopy or the rear top skins. Is it OK to put
> it on the gear? I was worried that without the rear top skins, the
tail
> would sag out of line.
I didn't install the gear until after the rear fuse was complete, and I'm
thinking that might be a better way to keep everything aligned. I suppose
you could do it the way you suggest, although even with the gear
installed, you still have to prop up the rear fuse to keep it from
tipping over backwards (without the weight of the engine up front), and
that might be tough to do without the top skins attached.
Mike Fortunato
601XL
working on IP and canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Shay King" <shaking(at)eircom.net> |
| Subject: | 701/ 912s installation questions. |
Dear Listers,
I've already had a look at the archives but I would appreciate the latest info
or advice on the following topics related to the 912s installation in the 701:
1/ Are you guys fitting a fuel return line in the 701? Anyone hear of
any vapour lock problems in the 701/912 combination?
2/ Whats the latest thinking on the fitting of carb overspill drip trays? Anyone
flying without them?
3/ I just got some Aeroquip firesleeve form Aircraft Spruce, I ordered size
AE102-14 which seemed to be the correct one for 1/2" fuel hose according to
the table in the catalogue. It looks to be a bit big for the zenair fuel hose
though. Anyone have experience with this stuff, and what size did you use?
4/ When fitting the Dzus fasteners to the cowling did anyone use the special
grommets to protect the fibreglass from wear or use some other method of protection?
Any help or advice much appreciated.
Regards,
Shay King. [ Engine installed and mostly plumbed, electrics and cowling next
]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "billvt(at)together.net" <billvt(at)together.net> |
| Subject: | Nosegear bungee replacement |
Dave,
I made a combination bungee stop and towbar attach point using a collar
bolted around the gear leg. It is clamped very tightly to the leg and I
think (at least I hope) that it would stop the gear leg from going too far
should the bungee break. In my case, my radiator (Stratus) would get
crunched. The stop will hit the lower gear bearing before the gear fork
smashes the radiator.
Anyway, if you interested, there are pictures of the stop on my web site.
http://homepages.together.net/~billvt/
Regards,
Bill
Original Message:
-----------------
From: Dave Austin daveaustin2(at)sprint.ca
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 10:05:42 -0500
Subject: Zenith-List: Nosegear bungee replacement
Mine almost totally failed, giving 3 to 4 inches of gear leg above the upper
bearing. If it had gone completely, the only thing stopping it from driving
right up through the cowl would have been first the steering arms and then
the bottom bearing/fork impact. Has anyone done anything to prevent real
damage?
I changed the bungee exactly as described - no problem. Now on my third.
Dave Austin 601HDS - 912 - 525 hrs - 9 years.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Livsey <jlivsey(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: hds wing tank drawings |
There is some documentation on LE tanks at
http://www.zenithair.com/pdf-doc/601hds-le-wing-tanks.pdf
but they don't show specific construction of the actual tanks.
regards john
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry C. McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: hds wing tank drawings |
Jim,
I made a set of leading edge tanks for the 601hds and used the drawings
by ZAC. They do not provide dimensional profiles that would easily
enable you to scratch build your own tanks. The drawings/info describe a
new replacement rib 7A and locational data that positions tank and parts
relative
to the spar and other ribs. Making the 7A and tanks wasn't all that much of
a
problem dimensionally because the tank and rib can be scaled in AutoCAD
per position along the main spar and the rest of the dimensions just fall
out. Making the jigs
that enable the construction of these tanks is another matter. If this is
where
you're going, try the journal and images on my web site.
Best regards
Larry C. McFarland - 601hds at http://ww.macsmachine.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim and Lucy" <jpollard(at)mnsi.net>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: hds wing tank drawings
> >
> > >
> > > Are there any drawings for the hds le wing tanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Zenair Exhaust System For Sale |
I have a complete exhaust system for sale. It was removed from a certified
Zenair CH2000. The engine was a Lycoming O-235 N2C. About 150 hours since
new. The system includes two heat muffs. I will include selected
photo-copies of the logbook so you will have a complete history.
I plan to offer this system for auction on E-Bay, but I would prefer to sell
to someone on the list who is building. I bought the engine to install in
an RV-9A which is about 80% finished.
I will box and ship the exhaust system for you. I live on the border so I
can ship from a U.S. address or a Canadian one. I am looking for $200 US,
or more. You pay the freight.
Let me know if you are interestd.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil & Michele Miller" <millerpg(at)ps.gen.nz> |
| Subject: | 701/ 912s installation questions. |
Hi, Shay,
Here's my thoughts on your questions...
1/ Are you guys fitting a fuel return line in the 701? Anyone hear of
any vapour lock problems in the 701/912 combination?
I don't have a return line. I don't think it is necessary except on fuel
injection systems but I will stand corrected if anyone has more
information. If you fit an electric fuel pump, make sure it is the
correct pressure. Don't exceed 0.4bar (approx 5.6psi)pressure.
Interestingly, the Rotax manual shows a return line.
Vapour locking can always be a problem, particularly if you use Mogas
which Rotax recommends (it is more volatile than Avgas).
2/ Whats the latest thinking on the fitting of carb overspill drip
trays? Anyone flying without them?
Carb spill trays are absolutely essential. If you don't have them and
you have a carb fuel leak it will drop right down on your exhaust and
ruin your day.
3/ I just got some Aeroquip firesleeve form Aircraft Spruce, I
ordered size AE102-14 which seemed to be the correct one for 1/2" fuel
hose according to the table in the catalogue. It looks to be a bit big
for the zenair fuel hose though. Anyone have experience with this
stuff, and what size did you use?
A bit big is OK. The air gap provides added insulation from external
heat sources. Fitting firesleeve is very good insurance.
4/ When fitting the Dzus fasteners to the cowling did anyone use the
special grommets to protect the fibreglass from wear or use some other
method of protection?
Don't have them and I can see that fibreglass wear may become a problem.
Just another little job I have to do some time.
Kind regards,
Phil Miller
701/912S
New Zealand
==
Contribution
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nose gear bungee replacement |
| From: | Grant Corriveau <grantC(at)ca.inter.net> |
Bill,
Thanks - I'm going to keep that posting handy... I tried jacking my
nosegear a while back, and ended up buckling the underfloor U channel edge
just a touch when the block I was using pressed in the wrong place. THEN
the light came on! I pulled the tail DOWN instead.... duh!
This list helps me a lot to avoid those problems or 'random neural firings'!
Grant
on 02/11/15 18:39, billvt(at)together.net at billvt(at)together.net wrote:
>
> Grant,
>
> I pulled my main gear boxes on my annual last year. I used a floor jack
> under the wing. Between the jack and wing was a large piece of carpeted
> plywood to distribute the load. When I got the wheel off the floor, I
> placed a saw horse (carpet covered) longways (front to back) under the
> center wing near the gear. Then did the same on the other side. I also
> added a horse under the tail to stabilize it.
>
> Regards,
> Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: hds wing tank drawings |
| From: | Grant Corriveau <grantC(at)ca.inter.net> |
Jim,
Here are the docs. (attached)
Grant
================
on 02/11/16 00:17, Jim and Lucy at jpollard(at)mnsi.net wrote:
>> Jim, I recieved a drawing from Zenair along with my le tanks. Maybe they
>> are available on the internet site (maybe as part of the XL drawings?... Or
>> perhaps Nick can send them to you as a .pdf document?
> That would be great if you could send it. I could use all the info I can
> find.
> I have all the published ones from the zenair site.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gower <ggower_99(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Travels in my Zodie |
Brent,
I will like to take a look to your web page, maybe other will, can you
post it bellow your signature? Thanks a lot in advance
Saludos
Gary Gower
701 912S
working on the cabin area.
--- Brent Battles wrote:
>
>
> I just returned from 70 hours of cross-country flying in my 601HD
> starting
> in Western North Carolina, passing through TN, MO, NB, WY, ID, WA,
> OR, CA,
> AZ, NM,
> TX, OK, AR, TN again, and then home. I camped 3 nights, had 6 days
> of
> weather delays (high winds 3 days, rain & low ceilings the other 3
> days).
> Flew two legs of 4.1 hours as my longest flights. Fuel burn was a
> steady 4
> gph, used just short of 1 quart of oil. Used Alcor (TCP) to scavenge
> lead
> from 100LL, with no evidence of lead build up on plugs and a fine
> film of
> lead showing on exhaust stack tips and alongside belly mounted
> radiator
> just aft of exhaust exits leading me to believe the dispersant was
> working
> pretty well.
>
> Once I get my photos organized and a little narrative written, I'll
> post my
> tale on my website's "Flying" page. I'll also post recent
> maintenance
> actions as well on my "Maintenance" page.
>
> One of many trip highlights was taking my 4 year old grandson up (my
> 109th
> passenger and 144th passenger flight) and my son (a newly minted
> private
> pilot himself) immediately before him.
>
> Thanks to Emil Berberov (whom I met at the Zenith Open Hangar Day)
> and his
> wife Christina for graciously putting me up during my stop in
> Lincoln, NB.
> Emil is on the verge of starting a 601XL.
>
> Regards,
> Brent Battles N16BZ
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: 10 Msgs - 11/16/02 |
| From: | Greg P Jannakos <gpjann(at)juno.com> |
Phil, what does your 'forward fuse' consist of?
If it ends at the TE of center wing section, you should be alright. If it
goes all the way to the tail then you need all longerons and skins
mounted with as many clecos as you can get your hand on.
As support the tail with something.
>
>
>
> I have completed riveting and bolting together the forward fuselage.
> It
> doesn't yet have the canopy or the rear top skins. Is it OK to put
> it on
> the gear? I was worried that without the rear top skins, the tail
> would sag
> out of line.
>
> I'd like to get it off the bench if I can.
>
> Thanks,
> Phil Maxson
> 601XL
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <rick.pitcher(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Deburring Techniques |
Steve Danielson wrote:
> What are folks using to debur (I have been twirling a countersink by hand,
> but if you can really do it like on the video....)
>
> Steve Danielson
> Wake Forest NC
Steve, I just finished riveting the center wing section spar/ribs. I
used a "Vixen file" to debur all the holes. It only takes one or two
quick swipes with the Vixen file to shave the burrs off the parts. I
haven't seen the video you are talking about, but it sure sounds like
they used the same kind of file.
This is the way Lockheed taught me to do it when I was building L-1011's
for them 30-some years ago. It works great, and it's FAST!!!
Rick Pitcher
CH601-HD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Danielson" <steved(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Deburring Techniques |
Let me ask a silly question: what is a Vixen file? Is it the same thing as a
body file? I saw a body file when I was at the ZAC open house, and to me it
looked like it had *huge* grooves and ridges. I haven't been able to find
one at the home Depot, Harbor Freight, etc... Where did you get yours and do
you have any pictures?
Thanks
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick" <rick.pitcher(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Deburring Techniques
>
>
> Steve Danielson wrote:
>
> > What are folks using to debur (I have been twirling a countersink by
hand,
> > but if you can really do it like on the video....)
> >
> > Steve Danielson
> > Wake Forest NC
>
> Steve, I just finished riveting the center wing section spar/ribs. I
> used a "Vixen file" to debur all the holes. It only takes one or two
> quick swipes with the Vixen file to shave the burrs off the parts. I
> haven't seen the video you are talking about, but it sure sounds like
> they used the same kind of file.
> This is the way Lockheed taught me to do it when I was building L-1011's
> for them 30-some years ago. It works great, and it's FAST!!!
>
> Rick Pitcher
> CH601-HD
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <rick.pitcher(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Deburring Techniques |
Steve Danielson wrote:
>
>
> Let me ask a silly question: what is a Vixen file? Is it the same thing as a
> body file?
http://safemode.org/mirror/2001/03/21/www.shamrockbolt.com/files.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Alberti" <daberti(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Deburring Techniques |
Milled Curved-Tooth Files
Reach for these files when you need smooth, rapid filing on flat and
curved aluminum, sheet steel, cast iron, bronze, lead, babbitt, zinc,
plastic, and steel up to the hardness of commercial annealed tool steel. The
contour-cut teeth permit easy chip clearance and produce smooth finishes.
Rigid Flat Files
8" 13/16" 11/64" 14 4282A11 $18.82
10" 1" 7/32" 12 4282A12 21.72
12" 1 5/32" 17/64" 10 4282A13 26.34
14" 1 11/32" 5/16" 8 4282A14 31.30
Mcmaster-Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Danielson" <steved(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Deburring Techniques
>
> Let me ask a silly question: what is a Vixen file? Is it the same thing as
a
> body file? I saw a body file when I was at the ZAC open house, and to me
it
> looked like it had *huge* grooves and ridges. I haven't been able to find
> one at the home Depot, Harbor Freight, etc... Where did you get yours and
do
> you have any pictures?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred or Sandy Hulen" <hulens61(at)birch.net> |
> Thanks for the Vixen file links. At around $20 a pop, I guess that's why I
> haven't seen them in the local home depot...
Vixen files most definitely make the "best tools" list from builders that
have discovered them. Having saved a ton of time because of it, I wouldn't
be without one. Wait till you see how easy it is to true up or quickly and
smoothly take the dimensions down on the "edge" of sheet stock! You can
typically find them as "surplus" for $6. to $8. at Air Parts.
1-(800)-800-3229 or (913)-831-1780
Fred
Area 41 Snailworks
N-601LX (Jabiru 3300 powered 601 HDS) is scheduled for FAA final inspection
this coming Thursday morning !!!!
October 16, 2002 - November 18, 2002
Zenith-Archive.digest.vol-dc