JabiruEngine-Archive.digest.vol-ad
October 18, 2007 - February 06, 2008
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Distributor cap and rotor...off topic |
The first two times I tried to send this it bounced back with the
claim that it was too big so I cropped it down and now I'm adding a
'file name' to further satisfy Matronics requirements. If it doesn't
go this time, I'm giving up...
> To follow up on the distributor cut-away picture, I just looked at
> my picture info...here 'tis:
>
> shutter speed 1/90 sec.
> ISO 200
> f/2.8
> focal length 6.7mm
> I had set the camera to "sports action" The camera is a Kodak Easy
> Share DX6490
> Pete asked to see the picture I took, and I sent it his way. I'm
> (attempting to) posting it now and we'll see if it flies. : ) The
> shutter speed vs idle speed calculations work out like this: idle
> speed of (say) 900rpm divided by 60 sec = 15 rps crank speed
> divided by 2 = 7.5 rps cam (or distributor) speed times 360 degrees
> = 2700 degrees of rotation divided by 90 (1/90 shutter speed) = 30
> degrees of rotation during which the shutter fired. Now I ask
> you...how lucky was I to get the rotor in just the exact position
> to see the exact time that the spark fired? DAMN lucky, I'd say.
> And I just went back and checked, and I had only made 6 shots, of
> which this shot was number 4, so that makes it even more of a
> "lucky dog" shot...to borrow a phrase from NASCAR. : )
>
> Maybe somebody knows the speed of the spark as it occurs in a
> internal combustion engine, I don't. But given a pretty short
> duration, that makes this shot even more lucky.
>
> Lynn Matteson
> Grass Lake, Michigan
> Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
> flying w/420+ hrs
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jabiru USA" <info(at)usjabiru.com> |
| Subject: | Distributor cap and rotor |
Gary,
You can place a small washer (1/8 diameter or a washer from a #8 screw)
under the clip on the needle. That will hold the needle slightly higher in
the jet and create a richer mixture. Aim for a cruise EGT of 1350 to 1400
Pete
_____
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary aman
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2007 8:27 AM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Distributor cap and rotor
Good day,
I have been following the postings but may still need some info. I have
an early 2200 w/economy tuning I believe,Only 1 groove in the needle.My
Exhaust temps get near 1500 in cruise on cold mornings 1410 during the
summer.I am uncomfortable with these numbers and prefer temps in the 1300
range.Cyl heads show just under 300.low speed adjustments are super
sensitive,with temp changes.Can I fatten it up a little
Thanx Gary Aman
Lynn Matteson wrote:
It's on its way to you, Pete.
Lynn
On Oct 17, 2007, at 5:44 PM, Jabiru USA wrote:
>
>
> Lynn,
>
> I'd like to see that photo!
>
> Pete Krotje
> Jabiru USA Sport Aircraft, LLC
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Lynn
> Matteson
> Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 4:08 PM
> To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Distributor cap and rotor
>
>
>
> I just replaced the caps and rotors on my 2200, and decided to have
> some fun with the old parts. I bored 3/4" holes into one cap between
> the four spark plug wire terminals, and hogged out as much material
> as I could and still retain the strength of the cap. I then
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Turk" <matronics(at)rtist.nl> |
| Subject: | Re: Distributor cap and rotor...off topic |
Hi Lynn,
Impressive picture, funny to see how this works internally. However, I don't
think catching the spark is as much of a lucky shot as you think. With the
shutter open for 1/90th of a second, it records everything for 1/90th of a
second. This includes the 30 degrees of moving rotor (hence the blur), and
also the instant moment that the spark occurs even if that is just a
microsecond.
Best regards,
Rob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lynn Matteson" <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2007 3:03 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Distributor cap and rotor...off topic
> The first two times I tried to send this it bounced back with the
> claim that it was too big so I cropped it down and now I'm adding a
> 'file name' to further satisfy Matronics requirements. If it doesn't
> go this time, I'm giving up...
>> To follow up on the distributor cut-away picture, I just looked at
>> my picture info...here 'tis:
>>
>> shutter speed 1/90 sec.
>> ISO 200
>> f/2.8
>> focal length 6.7mm
>> I had set the camera to "sports action" The camera is a Kodak Easy
>> Share DX6490
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> Pete asked to see the picture I took, and I sent it his way. I'm
>> (attempting to) posting it now and we'll see if it flies. : ) The
>> shutter speed vs idle speed calculations work out like this: idle
>> speed of (say) 900rpm divided by 60 sec = 15 rps crank speed
>> divided by 2 = 7.5 rps cam (or distributor) speed times 360 degrees
>> = 2700 degrees of rotation divided by 90 (1/90 shutter speed) = 30
>> degrees of rotation during which the shutter fired. Now I ask
>> you...how lucky was I to get the rotor in just the exact position
>> to see the exact time that the spark fired? DAMN lucky, I'd say.
>> And I just went back and checked, and I had only made 6 shots, of
>> which this shot was number 4, so that makes it even more of a
>> "lucky dog" shot...to borrow a phrase from NASCAR. : )
>>
>> Maybe somebody knows the speed of the spark as it occurs in a
>> internal combustion engine, I don't. But given a pretty short
>> duration, that makes this shot even more lucky.
>>
>> Lynn Matteson
>> Grass Lake, Michigan
>> Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
>> flying w/420+ hrs
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | Distributor cap and rotor...off topic |
Lynn do you want to tell him what you did for a living or can I :-)
Noel
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Rob Turk
> Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2007 4:15 PM
> To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Distributor cap and rotor...off topic
>
>
>
>
> Hi Lynn,
>
> Impressive picture, funny to see how this works internally.
> However, I don't
> think catching the spark is as much of a lucky shot as you
> think. With the
> shutter open for 1/90th of a second, it records everything
> for 1/90th of a
> second. This includes the 30 degrees of moving rotor (hence
> the blur), and
> also the instant moment that the spark occurs even if that is just a
> microsecond.
>
> Best regards,
> Rob
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lynn Matteson" <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2007 3:03 PM
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Distributor cap and rotor...off topic
>
>
> > The first two times I tried to send this it bounced back with the
> > claim that it was too big so I cropped it down and now I'm adding a
> > 'file name' to further satisfy Matronics requirements. If it doesn't
> > go this time, I'm giving up...
> >> To follow up on the distributor cut-away picture, I just looked at
> >> my picture info...here 'tis:
> >>
> >> shutter speed 1/90 sec.
> >> ISO 200
> >> f/2.8
> >> focal length 6.7mm
> >> I had set the camera to "sports action" The camera is a Kodak Easy
> >> Share DX6490
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> ------------------
>
>
> >> Pete asked to see the picture I took, and I sent it his way. I'm
> >> (attempting to) posting it now and we'll see if it flies. : ) The
> >> shutter speed vs idle speed calculations work out like this: idle
> >> speed of (say) 900rpm divided by 60 sec = 15 rps crank speed
> >> divided by 2 = 7.5 rps cam (or distributor) speed times 360 degrees
> >> = 2700 degrees of rotation divided by 90 (1/90 shutter speed) = 30
> >> degrees of rotation during which the shutter fired. Now I ask
> >> you...how lucky was I to get the rotor in just the exact position
> >> to see the exact time that the spark fired? DAMN lucky, I'd say.
> >> And I just went back and checked, and I had only made 6 shots, of
> >> which this shot was number 4, so that makes it even more of a
> >> "lucky dog" shot...to borrow a phrase from NASCAR. : )
> >>
> >> Maybe somebody knows the speed of the spark as it occurs in a
> >> internal combustion engine, I don't. But given a pretty short
> >> duration, that makes this shot even more lucky.
> >>
> >> Lynn Matteson
> >> Grass Lake, Michigan
> >> Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
> >> flying w/420+ hrs
> >>
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gary aman <gaman(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Distributor cap and rotor |
Thanks Pete,I'll give it a try.
G Aman
Jabiru USA wrote: v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} .shape
{behavior:url(#default#VML);} st1\:*{behavior:url(#default#ieooui) }
Gary,
You can place a small washer (1/8 diameter or a washer from a #8 screw) under
the clip on the needle. That will hold the needle slightly higher in the jet
and create a richer mixture. Aim for a cruise EGT of 1350 to 1400
Pete
---------------------------------
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary aman
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2007 8:27 AM
To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Distributor cap and rotor
Good day,
I have been following the postings but may still need some info. I have an
early 2200 w/economy tuning I believe,Only 1 groove in the needle.My Exhaust
temps get near 1500 in cruise on cold mornings 1410 during the summer.I am uncomfortable
with these numbers and prefer temps in the 1300 range.Cyl heads show
just under 300.low speed adjustments are super sensitive,with temp changes.Can
I fatten it up a little
Thanx Gary Aman
Lynn Matteson wrote:
It's on its way to you, Pete.
Lynn
On Oct 17, 2007, at 5:44 PM, Jabiru USA wrote:
>
>
> Lynn,
>
> I'd like to see that photo!
>
> Pete Krotje
> Jabiru USA Sport Aircraft, LLC
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Lynn
> Matteson
> Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 4:08 PM
> To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Distributor cap and rotor
>
>
>
> I just replaced the caps and rotors on my 2200, and decided to have
> some fun with the old parts. I bored 3/4" holes into one cap between
> the four spark plug wire terminals, and hogged out as much material
> as I could and still retain the strength of the cap. I then
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Distributor cap and rotor...off topic |
Lynn,
The spark is gold coloured?
Looks clean.
Peter H
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lynn
Matteson
Sent: Thursday, 18 October 2007 11:03 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Distributor cap and rotor...off topic
The first two times I tried to send this it bounced back with the
claim that it was too big so I cropped it down and now I'm adding a
'file name' to further satisfy Matronics requirements. If it doesn't
go this time, I'm giving up...
> To follow up on the distributor cut-away picture, I just looked at
> my picture info...here 'tis:
>
> shutter speed 1/90 sec.
> ISO 200
> f/2.8
> focal length 6.7mm
> I had set the camera to "sports action" The camera is a Kodak Easy
> Share DX6490
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Distributor cap and rotor...off topic |
No, the spark is blue-ish white...it's the rotor that is gold
colored. The silver-colored item is the segment imbedded in the cap
that the rotor delivers the spark to, and connects to the spark plug
via the individual wire.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/420+ hrs
On Oct 18, 2007, at 5:24 PM, Peter Harris wrote:
>
>
> Lynn,
> The spark is gold coloured?
> Looks clean.
> Peter H
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Lynn
> Matteson
> Sent: Thursday, 18 October 2007 11:03 PM
> To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Distributor cap and rotor...off topic
>
> The first two times I tried to send this it bounced back with the
> claim that it was too big so I cropped it down and now I'm adding a
> 'file name' to further satisfy Matronics requirements. If it doesn't
> go this time, I'm giving up...
>> To follow up on the distributor cut-away picture, I just looked at
>> my picture info...here 'tis:
>>
>> shutter speed 1/90 sec.
>> ISO 200
>> f/2.8
>> focal length 6.7mm
>> I had set the camera to "sports action" The camera is a Kodak Easy
>> Share DX6490
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Distributor cap and rotor...off topic |
Ok, Rob, I'll settle for "highly skilled, trained, etc" for
lucky. : ) But remember, there's the other 330 degrees of that circle
that I DIDN'T manage to capture, and that's what all the other shots
show...nothing.
I suppose if I had really wanted to stop the action cold, I could
have rigged a trigger of some sort that would have fired the shutter
at a point just prior to the rotor lining up with the cap segment,
but I never got into those kind of electronic triggers in my 20+
years as a photographer.
Lynn
On Oct 18, 2007, at 4:17 PM, Noel Loveys wrote:
>
>
> Lynn do you want to tell him what you did for a living or can I :-)
>
> Noel
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
>> Behalf Of Rob Turk
>> Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2007 4:15 PM
>> To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Distributor cap and rotor...off topic
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Hi Lynn,
>>
>> Impressive picture, funny to see how this works internally.
>> However, I don't
>> think catching the spark is as much of a lucky shot as you
>> think. With the
>> shutter open for 1/90th of a second, it records everything
>> for 1/90th of a
>> second. This includes the 30 degrees of moving rotor (hence
>> the blur), and
>> also the instant moment that the spark occurs even if that is just a
>> microsecond.
>>
>> Best regards,
>> Rob
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Lynn Matteson" <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>
>> To:
>> Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2007 3:03 PM
>> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Distributor cap and rotor...off topic
>>
>>
>>> The first two times I tried to send this it bounced back with the
>>> claim that it was too big so I cropped it down and now I'm adding a
>>> 'file name' to further satisfy Matronics requirements. If it doesn't
>>> go this time, I'm giving up...
>>>> To follow up on the distributor cut-away picture, I just looked at
>>>> my picture info...here 'tis:
>>>>
>>>> shutter speed 1/90 sec.
>>>> ISO 200
>>>> f/2.8
>>>> focal length 6.7mm
>>>> I had set the camera to "sports action" The camera is a Kodak Easy
>>>> Share DX6490
>>
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------------------
>> ------------------
>>
>>
>>>> Pete asked to see the picture I took, and I sent it his way. I'm
>>>> (attempting to) posting it now and we'll see if it flies. : ) The
>>>> shutter speed vs idle speed calculations work out like this: idle
>>>> speed of (say) 900rpm divided by 60 sec = 15 rps crank speed
>>>> divided by 2 = 7.5 rps cam (or distributor) speed times 360 degrees
>>>> = 2700 degrees of rotation divided by 90 (1/90 shutter speed) = 30
>>>> degrees of rotation during which the shutter fired. Now I ask
>>>> you...how lucky was I to get the rotor in just the exact position
>>>> to see the exact time that the spark fired? DAMN lucky, I'd say.
>>>> And I just went back and checked, and I had only made 6 shots, of
>>>> which this shot was number 4, so that makes it even more of a
>>>> "lucky dog" shot...to borrow a phrase from NASCAR. : )
>>>>
>>>> Maybe somebody knows the speed of the spark as it occurs in a
>>>> internal combustion engine, I don't. But given a pretty short
>>>> duration, that makes this shot even more lucky.
>>>>
>>>> Lynn Matteson
>>>> Grass Lake, Michigan
>>>> Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
>>>> flying w/420+ hrs
>>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | Distributor cap and rotor...off topic |
I'd just use a long exposure... No other light except what is caused by the
spark. 1/4 sec on manual should give an excellent result. For higher
shutter speeds just rev the engine a bit before firing the shutter. @ 2000
rpm each terminal should fire 1000 times a minute or 16 times a second a
shutter speed of 1/8 sec should produce 1 spark 50 % of the time and 2 over
lapping sparks the other 50% of the time. You then only have to experiment
with the aperture to get a pleasing result. BTW the probability of getting
a single spark at 1/90sec is approximately 1: 5.6 @2000rpm.
But you were using a digital camera which has a delay between the trigger
and the actual capture ( being careful not to mention shutter) That now
reduces things to chance until the capture duration is sufficiently long
enough to see one or more sparks.
I used to do "Photo Painting " That is where I would set up inside a
totally dark room and fire one small flash several times from different
angles and distances to attain a specific lighting pattern. I also used it
to do things like the ball in a cigar box... With a bit of work it was easy
to make a good quality model car look like the real thing.
Noel
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Lynn Matteson
> Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2007 7:40 PM
> To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Distributor cap and rotor...off topic
>
>
>
>
> Ok, Rob, I'll settle for "highly skilled, trained, etc" for
> lucky. : ) But remember, there's the other 330 degrees of
> that circle
> that I DIDN'T manage to capture, and that's what all the other shots
> show...nothing.
> I suppose if I had really wanted to stop the action cold, I could
> have rigged a trigger of some sort that would have fired the shutter
> at a point just prior to the rotor lining up with the cap segment,
> but I never got into those kind of electronic triggers in my 20+
> years as a photographer.
>
> Lynn
>
> On Oct 18, 2007, at 4:17 PM, Noel Loveys wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Lynn do you want to tell him what you did for a living or can I :-)
> >
> > Noel
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >> [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> >> Behalf Of Rob Turk
> >> Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2007 4:15 PM
> >> To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
> >> Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Distributor cap and
> rotor...off topic
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Hi Lynn,
> >>
> >> Impressive picture, funny to see how this works internally.
> >> However, I don't
> >> think catching the spark is as much of a lucky shot as you
> >> think. With the
> >> shutter open for 1/90th of a second, it records everything
> >> for 1/90th of a
> >> second. This includes the 30 degrees of moving rotor (hence
> >> the blur), and
> >> also the instant moment that the spark occurs even if that
> is just a
> >> microsecond.
> >>
> >> Best regards,
> >> Rob
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "Lynn Matteson" <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>
> >> To:
> >> Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2007 3:03 PM
> >> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Distributor cap and rotor...off topic
> >>
> >>
> >>> The first two times I tried to send this it bounced back with the
> >>> claim that it was too big so I cropped it down and now
> I'm adding a
> >>> 'file name' to further satisfy Matronics requirements. If
> it doesn't
> >>> go this time, I'm giving up...
> >>>> To follow up on the distributor cut-away picture, I just
> looked at
> >>>> my picture info...here 'tis:
> >>>>
> >>>> shutter speed 1/90 sec.
> >>>> ISO 200
> >>>> f/2.8
> >>>> focal length 6.7mm
> >>>> I had set the camera to "sports action" The camera is a
> Kodak Easy
> >>>> Share DX6490
> >>
> >>
> >> --------------------------------------------------------------
> >> ------------------
> >>
> >>
> >>>> Pete asked to see the picture I took, and I sent it his way. I'm
> >>>> (attempting to) posting it now and we'll see if it flies. : ) The
> >>>> shutter speed vs idle speed calculations work out like this: idle
> >>>> speed of (say) 900rpm divided by 60 sec = 15 rps crank speed
> >>>> divided by 2 = 7.5 rps cam (or distributor) speed times
> 360 degrees
> >>>> = 2700 degrees of rotation divided by 90 (1/90 shutter
> speed) = 30
> >>>> degrees of rotation during which the shutter fired. Now I ask
> >>>> you...how lucky was I to get the rotor in just the exact position
> >>>> to see the exact time that the spark fired? DAMN lucky, I'd say.
> >>>> And I just went back and checked, and I had only made 6 shots, of
> >>>> which this shot was number 4, so that makes it even more of a
> >>>> "lucky dog" shot...to borrow a phrase from NASCAR. : )
> >>>>
> >>>> Maybe somebody knows the speed of the spark as it occurs in a
> >>>> internal combustion engine, I don't. But given a pretty short
> >>>> duration, that makes this shot even more lucky.
> >>>>
> >>>> Lynn Matteson
> >>>> Grass Lake, Michigan
> >>>> Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
> >>>> flying w/420+ hrs
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Distributor cap and rotor...off topic |
I thought about doing all those photographic methods, Noel, but the
thought of waiting until dark or having a light-excluding blanket
thrown over the engine wasn't very appealing,with the prop sixteen
inches away from my left shoulder. Setting up a tripod, or rigging a
camera support wasn't exactly on my list of fun projects for the day
either. As it was, I had the plane strapped from going anywhere, was
doing all the starting and engine controls by myself, and not
mentioning that there was a little wind being generated by the prop.
I guess somewhere along the way...after I retired...I became more of
an aircraft person, and less of a photographer. : )
Lynn
On Oct 18, 2007, at 7:38 PM, Noel Loveys wrote:
>
>
> I'd just use a long exposure... No other light except what is
> caused by the
> spark. 1/4 sec on manual should give an excellent result. For higher
> shutter speeds just rev the engine a bit before firing the
> shutter. @ 2000
> rpm each terminal should fire 1000 times a minute or 16 times a
> second a
> shutter speed of 1/8 sec should produce 1 spark 50 % of the time
> and 2 over
> lapping sparks the other 50% of the time. You then only have to
> experiment
> with the aperture to get a pleasing result. BTW the probability of
> getting
> a single spark at 1/90sec is approximately 1: 5.6 @2000rpm.
>
> But you were using a digital camera which has a delay between the
> trigger
> and the actual capture ( being careful not to mention shutter)
> That now
> reduces things to chance until the capture duration is sufficiently
> long
> enough to see one or more sparks.
>
> I used to do "Photo Painting " That is where I would set up inside a
> totally dark room and fire one small flash several times from
> different
> angles and distances to attain a specific lighting pattern. I also
> used it
> to do things like the ball in a cigar box... With a bit of work it
> was easy
> to make a good quality model car look like the real thing.
> Noel
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
>> Behalf Of Lynn Matteson
>> Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2007 7:40 PM
>> To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Distributor cap and rotor...off topic
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Ok, Rob, I'll settle for "highly skilled, trained, etc" for
>> lucky. : ) But remember, there's the other 330 degrees of
>> that circle
>> that I DIDN'T manage to capture, and that's what all the other shots
>> show...nothing.
>> I suppose if I had really wanted to stop the action cold, I could
>> have rigged a trigger of some sort that would have fired the shutter
>> at a point just prior to the rotor lining up with the cap segment,
>> but I never got into those kind of electronic triggers in my 20+
>> years as a photographer.
>>
>> Lynn
>>
>> On Oct 18, 2007, at 4:17 PM, Noel Loveys wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Lynn do you want to tell him what you did for a living or can I :-)
>>>
>>> Noel
>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>>> [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
>>>> Behalf Of Rob Turk
>>>> Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2007 4:15 PM
>>>> To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
>>>> Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Distributor cap and
>> rotor...off topic
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Hi Lynn,
>>>>
>>>> Impressive picture, funny to see how this works internally.
>>>> However, I don't
>>>> think catching the spark is as much of a lucky shot as you
>>>> think. With the
>>>> shutter open for 1/90th of a second, it records everything
>>>> for 1/90th of a
>>>> second. This includes the 30 degrees of moving rotor (hence
>>>> the blur), and
>>>> also the instant moment that the spark occurs even if that
>> is just a
>>>> microsecond.
>>>>
>>>> Best regards,
>>>> Rob
>>>>
>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>> From: "Lynn Matteson" <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>
>>>> To:
>>>> Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2007 3:03 PM
>>>> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Distributor cap and rotor...off topic
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> The first two times I tried to send this it bounced back with the
>>>>> claim that it was too big so I cropped it down and now
>> I'm adding a
>>>>> 'file name' to further satisfy Matronics requirements. If
>> it doesn't
>>>>> go this time, I'm giving up...
>>>>>> To follow up on the distributor cut-away picture, I just
>> looked at
>>>>>> my picture info...here 'tis:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> shutter speed 1/90 sec.
>>>>>> ISO 200
>>>>>> f/2.8
>>>>>> focal length 6.7mm
>>>>>> I had set the camera to "sports action" The camera is a
>> Kodak Easy
>>>>>> Share DX6490
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --------------------------------------------------------------
>>>> ------------------
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>> Pete asked to see the picture I took, and I sent it his way. I'm
>>>>>> (attempting to) posting it now and we'll see if it flies. : ) The
>>>>>> shutter speed vs idle speed calculations work out like this: idle
>>>>>> speed of (say) 900rpm divided by 60 sec = 15 rps crank speed
>>>>>> divided by 2 = 7.5 rps cam (or distributor) speed times
>> 360 degrees
>>>>>> = 2700 degrees of rotation divided by 90 (1/90 shutter
>> speed) = 30
>>>>>> degrees of rotation during which the shutter fired. Now I ask
>>>>>> you...how lucky was I to get the rotor in just the exact position
>>>>>> to see the exact time that the spark fired? DAMN lucky, I'd say.
>>>>>> And I just went back and checked, and I had only made 6 shots, of
>>>>>> which this shot was number 4, so that makes it even more of a
>>>>>> "lucky dog" shot...to borrow a phrase from NASCAR. : )
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Maybe somebody knows the speed of the spark as it occurs in a
>>>>>> internal combustion engine, I don't. But given a pretty short
>>>>>> duration, that makes this shot even more lucky.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Lynn Matteson
>>>>>> Grass Lake, Michigan
>>>>>> Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
>>>>>> flying w/420+ hrs
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gary aman <gaman(at)att.net> |
I think the last person to respond to my inquiry was Pete.Based on that assumption
I would pose this question.2200 tuning info on line suggests 45 idle jet,250
main jet.276 needle jet and jabiru special needle.The markings on my main jet
indicate 175,along with some etched symbols I can't identify.Any chance the
factory rebored this 175 to make it a 250?The hole in this jet is .089
Thanks G.Aman
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Econo jetting |
| From: | "jetboy" <sanson.r(at)xtra.co.nz> |
Hi,
you should download the current information JSL 002-2 april 2007 standard
parts are idle jet .35mm needle jet 2.85mm main jet 2.25mm with the revised needle
pt. no. 4A131AOD.
I dont know if the previous needle is compatible with this latest revision,
I've had no problems in drilling out my earlier econo jets with metric drills of
those sizes although an EGT audit afterwards showed that in cruise my mixture
was over rich so I put back an original 2.76 needle jet to get the target readings.
Problems with routing of carb vent line or air intake to the carb will make a difference
to tuning so be sure they are correct first.
Ralph
--------
Ralph - CH701 / 2200a
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140798#140798
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Econo jetting |
That information, (JSL 002) has been "superseded" (my choice of a
word) by JSB 018-1. According to JSB 018-1 paragraph 2.2:
"Accordingly Service Letter JSB 002 has been cancelled and this
Service Bulletin issued in it's place."
I don't know what constitutes a Service Letter versus a Service
Bulletin, and it's apparent Jabiru doesn't either because they
interchange them at will, but that's what came down the pipeline just
recently...October 5, 2007, according to the download that I have.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/420+ hrs
On Oct 19, 2007, at 4:46 PM, jetboy wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
> you should download the current information JSL 002-2 april
> 2007 standard parts are idle jet .35mm needle jet 2.85mm main jet
> 2.25mm with the revised needle pt. no. 4A131AOD.
>
> I dont know if the previous needle is compatible with this latest
> revision,
>
> I've had no problems in drilling out my earlier econo jets with
> metric drills of those sizes although an EGT audit afterwards
> showed that in cruise my mixture was over rich so I put back an
> original 2.76 needle jet to get the target readings.
>
> Problems with routing of carb vent line or air intake to the carb
> will make a difference to tuning so be sure they are correct first.
>
> Ralph
>
> --------
> Ralph - CH701 / 2200a
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gary aman <gaman(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Econo jetting |
Ralph,
Thanks,I had an older copy of the first econo kit and not everything matched
up. A little easier to tune with bing parts,but we can handle it.Thanks again
G.Aman
Hi,
you should download the current information JSL 002-2 april 2007 standard
parts are idle jet .35mm needle jet 2.85mm main jet 2.25mm with the revised needle
pt. no. 4A131AOD.
I dont know if the previous needle is compatible with this latest revision,
I've had no problems in drilling out my earlier econo jets with metric drills of
those sizes although an EGT audit afterwards showed that in cruise my mixture
was over rich so I put back an original 2.76 needle jet to get the target readings.
Problems with routing of carb vent line or air intake to the carb will make a difference
to tuning so be sure they are correct first.
Ralph
--------
Ralph - CH701 / 2200a
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140798#140798
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | Distributor cap and rotor...off topic |
That's Ok .... I forgot a bout the prop..... One of those things about
being inside the plane when the engine is running. I still hate ducking
under the boom of a chopper during run up... The little voice keeps telling
me to walk around the front and be seen. Crawling up to check something
under the cowl with the rotors turning doesn't bother me at all. If some
one yells "Duck!" I won't look up and say "Where?"
As for the tail rotor That is really the most dangerous part!
Noel
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Lynn Matteson
> Sent: Friday, October 19, 2007 2:22 AM
> To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Distributor cap and rotor...off topic
>
>
>
>
> I thought about doing all those photographic methods, Noel, but the
> thought of waiting until dark or having a light-excluding blanket
> thrown over the engine wasn't very appealing,with the prop sixteen
> inches away from my left shoulder. Setting up a tripod, or rigging a
> camera support wasn't exactly on my list of fun projects for the day
> either. As it was, I had the plane strapped from going anywhere, was
> doing all the starting and engine controls by myself, and not
> mentioning that there was a little wind being generated by the prop.
> I guess somewhere along the way...after I retired...I became more of
> an aircraft person, and less of a photographer. : )
>
> Lynn
> On Oct 18, 2007, at 7:38 PM, Noel Loveys wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > I'd just use a long exposure... No other light except what is
> > caused by the
> > spark. 1/4 sec on manual should give an excellent result.
> For higher
> > shutter speeds just rev the engine a bit before firing the
> > shutter. @ 2000
> > rpm each terminal should fire 1000 times a minute or 16 times a
> > second a
> > shutter speed of 1/8 sec should produce 1 spark 50 % of the time
> > and 2 over
> > lapping sparks the other 50% of the time. You then only have to
> > experiment
> > with the aperture to get a pleasing result. BTW the
> probability of
> > getting
> > a single spark at 1/90sec is approximately 1: 5.6 @2000rpm.
> >
> > But you were using a digital camera which has a delay between the
> > trigger
> > and the actual capture ( being careful not to mention shutter)
> > That now
> > reduces things to chance until the capture duration is
> sufficiently
> > long
> > enough to see one or more sparks.
> >
> > I used to do "Photo Painting " That is where I would set
> up inside a
> > totally dark room and fire one small flash several times from
> > different
> > angles and distances to attain a specific lighting pattern.
> I also
> > used it
> > to do things like the ball in a cigar box... With a bit of
> work it
> > was easy
> > to make a good quality model car look like the real thing.
> > Noel
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >> [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> >> Behalf Of Lynn Matteson
> >> Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2007 7:40 PM
> >> To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
> >> Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Distributor cap and
> rotor...off topic
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Ok, Rob, I'll settle for "highly skilled, trained, etc" for
> >> lucky. : ) But remember, there's the other 330 degrees of
> >> that circle
> >> that I DIDN'T manage to capture, and that's what all the
> other shots
> >> show...nothing.
> >> I suppose if I had really wanted to stop the action cold, I could
> >> have rigged a trigger of some sort that would have fired
> the shutter
> >> at a point just prior to the rotor lining up with the cap segment,
> >> but I never got into those kind of electronic triggers in my 20+
> >> years as a photographer.
> >>
> >> Lynn
> >>
> >> On Oct 18, 2007, at 4:17 PM, Noel Loveys wrote:
> >>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Lynn do you want to tell him what you did for a living or
> can I :-)
> >>>
> >>> Noel
> >>>
> >>>> -----Original Message-----
> >>>> From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >>>> [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> >>>> Behalf Of Rob Turk
> >>>> Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2007 4:15 PM
> >>>> To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
> >>>> Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Distributor cap and
> >> rotor...off topic
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Hi Lynn,
> >>>>
> >>>> Impressive picture, funny to see how this works internally.
> >>>> However, I don't
> >>>> think catching the spark is as much of a lucky shot as you
> >>>> think. With the
> >>>> shutter open for 1/90th of a second, it records everything
> >>>> for 1/90th of a
> >>>> second. This includes the 30 degrees of moving rotor (hence
> >>>> the blur), and
> >>>> also the instant moment that the spark occurs even if that
> >> is just a
> >>>> microsecond.
> >>>>
> >>>> Best regards,
> >>>> Rob
> >>>>
> >>>> ----- Original Message -----
> >>>> From: "Lynn Matteson" <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>
> >>>> To:
> >>>> Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2007 3:03 PM
> >>>> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Distributor cap and rotor...off topic
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>> The first two times I tried to send this it bounced
> back with the
> >>>>> claim that it was too big so I cropped it down and now
> >> I'm adding a
> >>>>> 'file name' to further satisfy Matronics requirements. If
> >> it doesn't
> >>>>> go this time, I'm giving up...
> >>>>>> To follow up on the distributor cut-away picture, I just
> >> looked at
> >>>>>> my picture info...here 'tis:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> shutter speed 1/90 sec.
> >>>>>> ISO 200
> >>>>>> f/2.8
> >>>>>> focal length 6.7mm
> >>>>>> I had set the camera to "sports action" The camera is a
> >> Kodak Easy
> >>>>>> Share DX6490
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> --------------------------------------------------------------
> >>>> ------------------
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>> Pete asked to see the picture I took, and I sent it
> his way. I'm
> >>>>>> (attempting to) posting it now and we'll see if it
> flies. : ) The
> >>>>>> shutter speed vs idle speed calculations work out like
> this: idle
> >>>>>> speed of (say) 900rpm divided by 60 sec = 15 rps crank speed
> >>>>>> divided by 2 = 7.5 rps cam (or distributor) speed times
> >> 360 degrees
> >>>>>> = 2700 degrees of rotation divided by 90 (1/90 shutter
> >> speed) = 30
> >>>>>> degrees of rotation during which the shutter fired. Now I ask
> >>>>>> you...how lucky was I to get the rotor in just the
> exact position
> >>>>>> to see the exact time that the spark fired? DAMN
> lucky, I'd say.
> >>>>>> And I just went back and checked, and I had only made
> 6 shots, of
> >>>>>> which this shot was number 4, so that makes it even more of a
> >>>>>> "lucky dog" shot...to borrow a phrase from NASCAR. : )
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Maybe somebody knows the speed of the spark as it occurs in a
> >>>>>> internal combustion engine, I don't. But given a pretty short
> >>>>>> duration, that makes this shot even more lucky.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Lynn Matteson
> >>>>>> Grass Lake, Michigan
> >>>>>> Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
> >>>>>> flying w/420+ hrs
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Distributor cap and rotor...off topic |
Whenever I'm running my engine, even thought I can hear it, I keep
saying out loud "the prop is turning, the engine is running, the prop
is turning...", lest I lapse into stupidity, and walk into it.
While shooting the distributor shots, I had intended to have a fire
extinguisher on hand, outside the plane (besides the one strapped
onto the console) in case the open sparks decided to ignite any fumes
that might be lurking around the vicinity of the carburetor, but I
forgot to do this. I'll just bet that any sudden fire that might have
erupted would have been reason enough to celebrate by flailing ones
arms about the vicinity of the prop circle. : ) Thank God this didn't
happen.
Tail rotors...yikes!
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/420+ hrs
On Oct 19, 2007, at 8:23 PM, Noel Loveys wrote:
>
>
> That's Ok .... I forgot a bout the prop..... One of those things
> about
> being inside the plane when the engine is running. I still hate
> ducking
> under the boom of a chopper during run up... The little voice
> keeps telling
> me to walk around the front and be seen. Crawling up to check
> something
> under the cowl with the rotors turning doesn't bother me at all.
> If some
> one yells "Duck!" I won't look up and say "Where?"
>
> As for the tail rotor That is really the most dangerous part!
>
> Noel
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Morrisey <donmorrisey(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Eliminate Fuel Pumps on High Wing?? |
Hello,
Myself and another BushCaddy builder will be installing our 3300's very soo
n on our high wing taildraggers. I am curious how many high wing airplanes
(or others) have been able to eliminate the engine driven fuel pump and th
erefore the backup and run on gravity? This would be with the standard Bin
g Carb. Thanks.
Don...www.donsbushcaddy.comDon Morrisey's Skunkworks
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail and Microsoft Office Outlook ' together at last. -
Get it now.
http://office.microsoft.com/en-us/outlook/HA102225181033.aspx?pid=CL10062
6971033
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steve" <notsew_evets(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Eliminate Fuel Pumps on High Wing?? |
Don
I had an Avid Flyer with the 2200A engine. I also had a forward facing
fuel tank vent that gave the tank positive air pressure. The Avid
factory ( now out of business ) stated that they tried flying without
the fuel pump and just the air pressure worked ok. Thats what they
said........
I installed an electric backup anyway but never needed it.....
SW
----- Original Message -----
From: Don Morrisey
To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2007 10:24 AM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Eliminate Fuel Pumps on High Wing??
Hello,
Myself and another BushCaddy builder will be installing our 3300's
very soon on our high wing taildraggers. I am curious how many high
wing airplanes (or others) have been able to eliminate the engine driven
fuel pump and therefore the backup and run on gravity? This would be
with the standard Bing Carb. Thanks.
Don...
www.donsbushcaddy.com
Don Morrisey's Skunkworks
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Windows Live Hotmail and Microsoft Office Outlook ' together at
last. Get it now!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Eliminate Fuel Pumps on High Wing?? |
Don,
In the tests that I conducted with the 33000 I found that the carb as
supplied is fitted with the float needle seat 2.25mm diam which is meant for
gravity feed and at the anything above 2700rpm the seat leaks additional
fuel into the bowl and makes the mixture excessively rich. The pump fed carb
should be fitted with a smaller needle seat.
If you run the carb as supplied with gravity feed alone it will run leaner
that the others above 2700 but I found it still within EGT limits.
Peter H
_____
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don
Morrisey
Sent: Sunday, 21 October 2007 3:24 AM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Eliminate Fuel Pumps on High Wing??
Hello,
Myself and another BushCaddy builder will be installing our 3300's very soon
on our high wing taildraggers. I am curious how many high wing airplanes
(or others) have been able to eliminate the engine driven fuel pump and
therefore the backup and run on gravity? This would be with the standard
Bing Carb. Thanks.
Don...
www.donsbushcaddy.com <http://www.donsbushcaddy.com/>
Don Morrisey's Skunkworks
_____
Windows Live Hotmail and Microsoft Office Outlook - together at last. Get it
now!
<http://office.microsoft.com/en-us/outlook/HA102225181033.aspx?pid=CL1006269
71033>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mervin Friesen" <mefriesen(at)mts.net> |
| Subject: | exhaust screw tensions |
Good Morning,
The Jab 2200 manual (issue 4) page 22 instructs us to check the exhaust
system, check exhaust screw tensions and gasket condition. I can't find any
values for the exhaust screw tension. Does anyone know that value or where I
can find it? How have you done this check?
Mervin Friesen
Jab 2200 #1768
HYPERLINK
"http://kleefeld.hsd.ca/mefriesen/"http://kleefeld.hsd.ca/mefriesen/HYPERLIN
K "http://kleefeld.hsd.ca/mefriesen/index.html"HYPERLINK
"http://mefriese.hsd.ca/"
5:41 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ALAN BEYER <agbeyer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Eliminate Fuel Pumps on High Wing?? |
Don,=0AI have an older 3300 (S/N 431) with 340 Hrs. in an HDS. Most of its
life I flew it with the stock float needle seat that came with my engine (
2.5 MM). With-in the last few weeks I removed the carb and installed a new
seat (1.5MM) which is ment for a system with a fuel pump. What this did i
s what Peter H. was talking about. It leaned out the the mixture at the hi
gher RPM settings due to fuel not leaking past the needle and also made for
a more consistant fuel flow. The EGT,s went up, so in my case a little l
arger Needle Jet might be in order such as a 2.86 or a 2.87. I also have a
265 Main Jet installed. As Andy S. has explaned the fuel pump will sort o
f self regulate the fuel pressure depending on the spring rate of the sprin
g in the fuel pump. That is why if you have a boost pump turned on the pre
ssure will stay the same as with-out it on. With the 2.5 seat I would see
about 2 GPH increase in fuel flow, and just a few tenths with the 1.5 seat
at idle when I turned on the boost pump. I don't know what size seat the
newer engines come with. You can get all the parts you need from http://ww
w.bingcarburetor.com/. If you are installing your engine in a high wing an
d don't have enough fuel flow (The seat could act as the main jet) there ar
e larger seats available from Bing. The seats they have are 1.5, 2.5, 3.7,
and 4.0. I think as in my case with the larger seat the engine came set-up
for the Jabiru Aircraft (High wing). It worked O.K. with the larger seat,
but a lot better with the smaller one. =0ASome people have posted in the p
ast about having a proplem with cold starting. When I did my first start
up 3 years ago I also had a problem with cold starts. My engine would star
t and then stop five or six times before it woud keep running. By this tim
e the battery was almost dead. I made a modification to the small jet in th
e bottom of the float bowl that supplies the Starting Carb (Choke). The si
ze of the jet in my carb was .029". I drilled mine out to .035" which fixe
d the starting issue for me.=0A=0AAL from Oshkosh=0A=0AOriginal Message ---
-=0AFrom: Peter Harris <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com>=0ATo: jabiruengine-list@
matronics.com=0ASent: Saturday, October 20, 2007 4:36:23 PM=0ASubject: RE:
JabiruEngine-List: Eliminate Fuel Pumps on High Wing??=0A=0A=0ADon,=0AIn th
e tests that I conducted with the 33000 I found that the carb as supplied i
s fitted with the float needle seat 2.25mm diam which is meant for gravity
feed and at the anything above 2700rpm the seat leaks additional fuel into
the bowl and makes the mixture excessively rich. The pump fed carb should b
e fitted with a smaller needle seat.=0AIf you run the carb as supplied with
gravity feed alone it will run leaner that the others above 2700 but I fou
nd it still within EGT limits.=0APeter H=0A=0A=0A=0AFrom: owner-jabiruengin
e-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server@matronic
s.com] On Behalf Of Don Morrisey=0ASent: Sunday, 21 October 2007 3:24 AM=0A
Fuel Pumps on High Wing??=0A =0AHello,=0A =0AMyself and another BushCaddy
builder will be installing our 3300's very soon on our high wing taildragge
rs. I am curious how many high wing airplanes (or others) have been able t
o eliminate the engine driven fuel pump and therefore the backup and run on
gravity? This would be with the standard Bing Carb. Thanks.=0A =0ADon...
=0Awww.donsbushcaddy.com=0ADon Morrisey's Skunkworks=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0AWindo
ws Live Hotmail and Microsoft Office Outlook ' together at last. Get it n
=================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim(at)jabirupacific.com" <jim(at)jabirupacific.com> |
| Subject: | exhaust screw tensions |
Hi Marvin
Your are correct it's not listed , I would recommend 7 ft-lbs if you want to
try to get a torque wrench in there, I personally don't use torque wrench on
them go by feel.
Also use so anti-seize on the exhaust bolts when you reassemble it.
Also one other note, your engine doesn't have any exhaust gaskets, it has
conical seats on the exhaust pipe.
All 2200 engines after serial 1597 have conical exhaust seats.
Jim McCormick
Jabiru Pacific LLC
255 W Fallbrook 202B
Fresno, CA 93711
Office 559-431-1701
Fax 559-233-3676
www.jabirupacific.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mervin
Friesen
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 4:29 AM
To: jabiruengines(at)yahoogroups.com
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: exhaust screw tensions
Good Morning,
The Jab 2200 manual (issue 4) page 22 instructs us to check the exhaust
system, check exhaust screw tensions and gasket condition. I can't find any
values for the exhaust screw tension. Does anyone know that value or where I
can find it? How have you done this check?
Mervin Friesen
Jab 2200 #1768
http://kleefeld.hsd.ca/mefriesen/
19/10/2007 5:41 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Turk" <matronics(at)rtist.nl> |
| Subject: | 3300 exhaust system |
Has anyone tried a non-standard exhaust system and mufflers on the 3300? In
particular I'd like to know about using two smaller mufflers like these:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/mufler8tailpipe.php
Using two of these would allow putting the oil cooler right in line with the
airflow through the oilpan, and have two heat exchangers, one for carb heat
and one for cabin heat. Someone pointed to a Sonex galery showing that setup
but without mufflers. How much does the noise level increase by not using
mufflers?
http://www.sonexaircraft.com/images/products/sonex/sonexgallery.html
Thoughts?
Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gary aman <gaman(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | exhaust screw tensions |
Jim
Have 2200 serial # 1295. Exhaust gaskets?
G Aman
"Jim(at)jabirupacific.com" wrote: Hi Marvin
Your are correct it's not listed , I would recommend 7 ft-lbs if you want to
try to get a torque wrench in there, I personally don't use torque wrench on
them go by feel.
Also use so anti-seize on the exhaust bolts when you reassemble it.
Also one other note, your engine doesn't have any exhaust gaskets, it has conical
seats on the exhaust pipe.
All 2200 engines after serial 1597 have conical exhaust seats.
Jim McCormick
Jabiru Pacific LLC
255 W Fallbrook 202B
Fresno, CA 93711
Office 559-431-1701
Fax 559-233-3676
www.jabirupacific.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mervin Friesen
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 4:29 AM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: exhaust screw tensions
Good Morning,
The Jab 2200 manual (issue 4) page 22 instructs us to check the exhaust system,
check exhaust screw tensions and gasket condition. I can't find any
values for the exhaust screw tension. Does anyone know that value or where
I can find it? How have you done this check?
Mervin Friesen
Jab 2200 #1768
http://kleefeld.hsd.ca/mefriesen/
19/10/2007 5:41 PM
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim(at)jabirupacific.com" <jim(at)jabirupacific.com> |
| Subject: | exhaust screw tensions |
Serial # 1295 still use's exhaust gaskets.
Jim McCormick
Jabiru Pacific LLC
255 W Fallbrook 202B
Fresno, CA 93711
Office 559-431-1701
Fax 559-233-3676
www.jabirupacific.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of gary aman
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 4:08 PM
To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: exhaust screw tensions
Jim
Have 2200 serial # 1295. Exhaust gaskets?
G Aman
"Jim(at)jabirupacific.com" wrote:
Hi Marvin
Your are correct it's not listed , I would recommend 7 ft-lbs if you
want to try to get a torque wrench in there, I personally don't use torque
wrench on them go by feel.
Also use so anti-seize on the exhaust bolts when you reassemble it.
Also one other note, your engine doesn't have any exhaust gaskets, it
has conical seats on the exhaust pipe.
All 2200 engines after serial 1597 have conical exhaust seats.
Jim McCormick
Jabiru Pacific LLC
255 W Fallbrook 202B
Fresno, CA 93711
Office 559-431-1701
Fax 559-233-3676
www.jabirupacific.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mervin
Friesen
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 4:29 AM
To: jabiruengines(at)yahoogroups.com
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: exhaust screw tensions
Good Morning,
The Jab 2200 manual (issue 4) page 22 instructs us to check the
exhaust system, check exhaust screw tensions and gasket condition. I can't
find any values for the exhaust screw tension. Does anyone know that value
or where I can find it? How have you done this check?
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N1BZRich(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 3300 exhaust system |
In a message dated 10/22/2007 11:58:37 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
matronics(at)rtist.nl writes:
Has anyone tried a non-standard exhaust system and mufflers on the 3300?
Rob,
Don't know what type of aircraft you are building, so this might not
help, but I have a 3300 in my highly modified Esqual and no mufflers are
installed. Each side is a three into one straight exhaust pipe. I use two small
heat muffs, one for carb heat and one for cabin heat that fit over the
straight pipe section on each side. The sound is not much louder that a 3300
with a
muffler, but it does have more of a "deeper" or "throaty" sound. I really
like it. The heat muffs came from - _http://robbinswings.com/_
(http://robbinswings.com/)
Blue Skies,
Buz
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FUEL INJECTION FOR JABIRU 3300 125HP |
| From: | "silvercross" <sinkean.lim(at)gmail.com> |
Hi everyone. I am new to the site and am looking for information on what is required
to install Fuel Injection on a Jabiru 3300 125hp engine. Is there a complete
readily available for purchase kit?
Anyone with experience on such an install? WHat is the projected benefits (i.e.
power, fuel consumption, etc.) can I expect from such modification.
I am considering this for an aircraft I am thinking of building..
Thanks
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141876#141876
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | 3300 exhaust system |
Buz
Sounds interesting. How about fitting a hot dog each side? Do you think
there is any power increase with no muffler ?
Peter H
J3300 Quickie
_____
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
N1BZRich(at)aol.com
Sent: Friday, 26 October 2007 11:29 AM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: 3300 exhaust system
In a message dated 10/22/2007 11:58:37 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
matronics(at)rtist.nl writes:
Has anyone tried a non-standard exhaust system and mufflers on the 3300?
Rob,
Don't know what type of aircraft you are building, so this might not
help, but I have a 3300 in my highly modified Esqual and no mufflers are
installed. Each side is a three into one straight exhaust pipe. I use two
small heat muffs, one for carb heat and one for cabin heat that fit over the
straight pipe section on each side. The sound is not much louder that a
3300 with a muffler, but it does have more of a "deeper" or "throaty" sound.
I really like it. The heat muffs came from - http://robbinswings.com/
Blue Skies,
Buz
_____
See what's new at
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | FUEL INJECTION FOR JABIRU 3300 125HP |
Hi Silvercross (I don't have your name)
I am running a single throttle body with two injectors as a TBI installation
and still in the early stages of flight testing. The throttle body is made
to fit the Bing spigot hose.
The system was pioneered by Helmut Frensch and he posted pics on the Jabiru
Engines Yahoo list. What I like about this is that it is as simple and safe
and cost efficient as possible with a short fuel rail and HP hose unlike the
multipoint installation which would mean a HP fuel rail full length both
sides of the engine compt. and 6 injectors each costing $100.
We use a manifold sensor, an intake air temp sensor and a HE pickup.
We use a 10K potentiometer as an optional manual trim for mixture so that
EGT can be optimized under any load conditions.
I am waiting on a price from an NC machine shop for local production of the
TB.
We are using a Haltech (automotive) ECU but it is an overkill and cost
$1000. I would consider the EC2 which has redundancy and is easily tuned in
flight, or the Megasquirt ECU.
At this stage I have not been able to fly full power and cannot comment on
power gain, but starting and full range operation is very smooth and there
is total control of mixture.
Peter H
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
silvercross
Sent: Friday, 26 October 2007 12:43 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: FUEL INJECTION FOR JABIRU 3300 125HP
Hi everyone. I am new to the site and am looking for information on what is
required to install Fuel Injection on a Jabiru 3300 125hp engine. Is there a
complete readily available for purchase kit?
Anyone with experience on such an install? WHat is the projected benefits
(i.e. power, fuel consumption, etc.) can I expect from such modification.
I am considering this for an aircraft I am thinking of building..
Thanks
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141876#141876
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Miguel Maia de Loureiro" <ultralight.flyer(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FUEL INJECTION FOR JABIRU 3300 125HP |
I was thinking about a similar system to my Pioneer 200. Since i've saw the
UL Power Engine... i donno. The only advantage regardless UL Power is that
Jab have Hydraulic pushers and is not so expensive. UL Power already have
injectors on standard models.
--
Miguel Maia de Loureiro
Ultralight Pilot Suport Services
Cel.: +351 91 419 21 04
e-Mail: ultralight.flyer(at)gmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N1BZRich(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 3300 exhaust system |
In a message dated 10/26/2007 12:32:41 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com writes:
Do you think there is any power increase with no muffler ?
Hi :Peter,
I don't know for sure that I have an increase of power with no muffler
(have not flown it with a muffler), but based on many years hot roding cars
and then a Pitts Special with straight pipes, I think it helps. Any increase
in power will depend on the type of muffler (or mufflers) you take off, but
less back pressure generally will result in an increase of power. Besides, it
sounds better to me. People still say how quiet the jab 3300 is, especially
those use to hearing Lycs. and Continentals. I wish it were louder ;-)
The 3300 set up on my airplane must work, it has been trouble free for
380 hours. Come mid December it will have been flying for 2 years and I
should have at least 400 hours on it by then.
Blue Skies,
Buz Rich
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | 3300 exhaust system |
Buz
That is a great shot of the Esqual ..neat.
I am test flying my J3300 Quickie with fuel injection. I have given details
on the list. I am getting over 170KTS CAS at this stage but there is another
Quickie in Wisconsin (Paul Spackman) getting 180KTS TAS with the Bing carb.
Early days yet I have only 25HRS on the engine and the prop is probably a
little too big. 55"X72"pitch Sterba. Paul is getting more rpm with a 54X72
Sensenich
Regards
Peter
_____
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
N1BZRich(at)aol.com
Sent: Saturday, 27 October 2007 3:02 AM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: 3300 exhaust system
In a message dated 10/26/2007 12:32:41 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com writes:
Do you think there is any power increase with no muffler ?
Hi :Peter,
I don't know for sure that I have an increase of power with no muffler
(have not flown it with a muffler), but based on many years hot roding cars
and then a Pitts Special with straight pipes, I think it helps. Any
increase in power will depend on the type of muffler (or mufflers) you take
off, but less back pressure generally will result in an increase of power.
Besides, it sounds better to me. People still say how quiet the jab 3300
is, especially those use to hearing Lycs. and Continentals. I wish it were
louder ;-)
The 3300 set up on my airplane must work, it has been trouble free for
380 hours. Come mid December it will have been flying for 2 years and I
should have at least 400 hours on it by then.
Blue Skies,
Buz Rich
_____
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N1BZRich(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 3300 exhaust system |
In a message dated 10/26/2007 5:10:01 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com writes:
I am getting over 170KTS CAS at this stage but there is another Quickie in
Wisconsin (Paul Spackman) getting 180KTS TAS with the Bing carb.
Impressive numbers, Peter. At what altitude are you and Paul seeing those
numbers. I have seen over 200 at WOT, but that is at sea level where I live.
Buz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | 3300 exhaust system |
Buz
My tests are done near sea level , WOT at about 2000 ft and Paul tested WOT
at 8000 ft. Are you getting 200KTS or MPH. ? What are the prop details and
WOT max
RPM ?
Regards
Peter
_____
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
N1BZRich(at)aol.com
Sent: Sunday, 28 October 2007 2:52 AM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: 3300 exhaust system
In a message dated 10/26/2007 5:10:01 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com writes:
I am getting over 170KTS CAS at this stage but there is another Quickie in
Wisconsin (Paul Spackman) getting 180KTS TAS with the Bing carb.
Impressive numbers, Peter. At what altitude are you and Paul seeing those
numbers. I have seen over 200 at WOT, but that is at sea level where I
live.
Buz
_____
See what's new at
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N1BZRich(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 3300 exhaust system |
Peter,
I still don't have the right prop. The current one is a 64ZK55 wood
Sensenich and I can still over speed the engine at WOT by quite a bit - even up
at 5000 feet or more. At sea level I really have to bring the throttle back
to keep it at 3300 rpm and with that I am seeing an average of 205 MPH
indicated. At 5000 feet on a standard day I can overspeed the engine with this
prop by something over 150 rpm. True airspeed in MPH at 5000 and the throttle
pulled back to 3300 is something like 185 to 188 mph tas. I have a 62FK68 on
order that should be closer to the right prop. Will likely be at least
another month until that shows up. In the mean time, with the current prop, I
cruise at 8,000 to 10,000 feet on an XC at about 170 mph tas but am only
burning about 5.8 gallons per hour - pretty good economy. Even with this current
prop take off roll is still short (about 600' at gross weight), and rate of
climb is still good (initially about 1200 fpm).
Blue Skies,
Buz
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FUEL INJECTION FOR JABIRU 3300 125HP |
| From: | "sonex293" <sonex293(at)gmail.com> |
Peter,
I remember seeing Helmut's posts on the Yahoo! group and was intrigued. I always
thought this would be something nice to experiment with after I got my plane
in the air. I'm really interested to hear your final results, both performance
and price.
Please, keep use up to date!
--
Michael
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=142543#142543
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | 3300 exhaust system |
Buz
You are getting some great results and I will be interested to hear about
the new prop with 68 pitch. I think I am losing out on RPM as max WOT is
barely 3000 RPM. I will consider getting a Sensenich later but I am waiting
for a few more hours on the clock. With 72 pitch I get up to 1500FPM climb
at 90 KTS and so I think you will not lose much in climb rate with the new
prop. and it should fix the WOT factor about right. Please let me know how
it works out !
That must be a slippery air frame.
Cheers
Peter
_____
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
N1BZRich(at)aol.com
Sent: Monday, 29 October 2007 1:26 AM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: 3300 exhaust system
Peter,
I still don't have the right prop. The current one is a 64ZK55 wood
Sensenich and I can still over speed the engine at WOT by quite a bit - even
up at 5000 feet or more. At sea level I really have to bring the throttle
back to keep it at 3300 rpm and with that I am seeing an average of 205 MPH
indicated. At 5000 feet on a standard day I can overspeed the engine with
this prop by something over 150 rpm. True airspeed in MPH at 5000 and the
throttle pulled back to 3300 is something like 185 to 188 mph tas. I have a
62FK68 on order that should be closer to the right prop. Will likely be at
least another month until that shows up. In the mean time, with the current
prop, I cruise at 8,000 to 10,000 feet on an XC at about 170 mph tas but am
only burning about 5.8 gallons per hour - pretty good economy. Even with
this current prop take off roll is still short (about 600' at gross weight),
and rate of climb is still good (initially about 1200 fpm).
Blue Skies,
Buz
_____
See what's new at
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Stout" <n282rs(at)satx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Stator coil problem |
I flew my plane from San Antonio Texas to Casa Grande AZ to the Copperstate
Fly-in. On the way back the engine developed a whirring noise at low RPM. On
the ground I found that when the prop was pulled through by hand the stator
would jiggle opposite of the prop direction, apparently being pulled toward
the approaching magnet. When I removed the stator assembly, 3 of the stator
mounting screws fell out. They had broken off. The forth screw broke as I
was trying to remove it. I don't see anything loose like a magnet or the
flywheel.
Has anyone experienced this problem in the past? If so what was needed to
keep it from happening again.? At the moment, I'm thinking about getting
stainless steel screws to replace the standard screws that broke. I was also
going to check the flywheel bolts while I have access to them and anything
else I can get my hands on.
Randy Stout
San Antonio TX
www.geocities.com/n282rs
n282rs at satx.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dredmoody(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stator coil problem |
Ask the engine manufacturer what screws to use for the stator. Stainless steel
may be weaker than the ones called for. Also ask if a Loctite product (and which
one) should be used on those screws.
Was your wife on board this time? She may begin to think she's snake bit.
Dred
---- Randy Stout wrote:
>
>
>
> I flew my plane from San Antonio Texas to Casa Grande AZ to the Copperstate
> Fly-in. On the way back the engine developed a whirring noise at low RPM. On
> the ground I found that when the prop was pulled through by hand the stator
> would jiggle opposite of the prop direction, apparently being pulled toward
> the approaching magnet. When I removed the stator assembly, 3 of the stator
> mounting screws fell out. They had broken off. The forth screw broke as I
> was trying to remove it. I don't see anything loose like a magnet or the
> flywheel.
>
> Has anyone experienced this problem in the past? If so what was needed to
> keep it from happening again.? At the moment, I'm thinking about getting
> stainless steel screws to replace the standard screws that broke. I was also
> going to check the flywheel bolts while I have access to them and anything
> else I can get my hands on.
>
> Randy Stout
> San Antonio TX
> www.geocities.com/n282rs
> n282rs at satx.rr.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cy" <cygan(at)optusnet.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 10/29/07 |
Reference Fuel injection on the 3300, would you send me some details --
I guess I missed something. cygan(at)optusnet.com.au
Thanx
cy
----- Original Message -----
From: "JabiruEngine-List Digest Server" <jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com>
To: "JabiruEngine-List Digest List"
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 5:57 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 10/29/07
> *
>
> =================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> =================================================
>
> Today's complete JabiruEngine-List Digest can also be found in either of
the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
> of the JabiruEngine-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text
editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 07-10-29&Archive=JabiruEngine
>
> Text Version:
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 07-10-29&Archive=JabiruEngine
>
>
> ===============================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ===============================================
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> JabiruEngine-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Mon 10/29/07: 2
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 10:28 AM - Re: FUEL INJECTION FOR JABIRU 3300 125HP (sonex293)
> 2. 01:48 PM - Re: 3300 exhaust system (Peter Harris)
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Re: FUEL INJECTION FOR JABIRU 3300 125HP
> From: "sonex293" <sonex293(at)gmail.com>
>
>
> Peter,
>
> I remember seeing Helmut's posts on the Yahoo! group and was intrigued.
I always
> thought this would be something nice to experiment with after I got my
plane
> in the air. I'm really interested to hear your final results, both
performance
> and price.
>
> Please, keep use up to date!
>
> --
> Michael
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=142543#142543
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com>
> Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: 3300 exhaust system
>
> Buz
>
> You are getting some great results and I will be interested to hear
about
> the new prop with 68 pitch. I think I am losing out on RPM as max WOT is
> barely 3000 RPM. I will consider getting a Sensenich later but I am
waiting
> for a few more hours on the clock. With 72 pitch I get up to 1500FPM
climb
> at 90 KTS and so I think you will not lose much in climb rate with the
new
> prop. and it should fix the WOT factor about right. Please let me know
how
> it works out !
>
> That must be a slippery air frame.
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter
>
>
> _____
>
> From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> N1BZRich(at)aol.com
> Sent: Monday, 29 October 2007 1:26 AM
> Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: 3300 exhaust system
>
>
> Peter,
>
> I still don't have the right prop. The current one is a 64ZK55 wood
> Sensenich and I can still over speed the engine at WOT by quite a bit -
even
> up at 5000 feet or more. At sea level I really have to bring the
throttle
> back to keep it at 3300 rpm and with that I am seeing an average of 205
MPH
> indicated. At 5000 feet on a standard day I can overspeed the engine
with
> this prop by something over 150 rpm. True airspeed in MPH at 5000 and
the
> throttle pulled back to 3300 is something like 185 to 188 mph tas. I
have a
> 62FK68 on order that should be closer to the right prop. Will likely be
at
> least another month until that shows up. In the mean time, with the
current
> prop, I cruise at 8,000 to 10,000 feet on an XC at about 170 mph tas but
am
> only burning about 5.8 gallons per hour - pretty good economy. Even
with
> this current prop take off roll is still short (about 600' at gross
weight),
> and rate of climb is still good (initially about 1200 fpm).
>
> Blue Skies,
>
> Buz
>
>
> _____
>
> See what's new at
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 10/29/07 |
Cy
Everything I know about my fuel injection installation to date is posted and
you will be able to find it in the archives.
When you have read the archives pls let me know if you have any questions.
Regards
Peter H
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of cy
Sent: Tuesday, 30 October 2007 6:13 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 10/29/07
Reference Fuel injection on the 3300, would you send me some details --
I guess I missed something. cygan(at)optusnet.com.au
Thanx
cy
----- Original Message -----
From: "JabiruEngine-List Digest Server" <jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com>
To: "JabiruEngine-List Digest List"
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 5:57 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 10/29/07
> *
>
> =================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> =================================================
>
> Today's complete JabiruEngine-List Digest can also be found in either of
the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
> of the JabiruEngine-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text
editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter
07-10-29&Archive=JabiruEngine
>
> Text Version:
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter
2007-10-29&Archive=JabiruEngine
>
>
> ===============================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ===============================================
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> JabiruEngine-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Mon 10/29/07: 2
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 10:28 AM - Re: FUEL INJECTION FOR JABIRU 3300 125HP (sonex293)
> 2. 01:48 PM - Re: 3300 exhaust system (Peter Harris)
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Re: FUEL INJECTION FOR JABIRU 3300 125HP
> From: "sonex293" <sonex293(at)gmail.com>
>
>
> Peter,
>
> I remember seeing Helmut's posts on the Yahoo! group and was intrigued.
I always
> thought this would be something nice to experiment with after I got my
plane
> in the air. I'm really interested to hear your final results, both
performance
> and price.
>
> Please, keep use up to date!
>
> --
> Michael
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=142543#142543
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com>
> Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: 3300 exhaust system
>
> Buz
>
> You are getting some great results and I will be interested to hear
about
> the new prop with 68 pitch. I think I am losing out on RPM as max WOT is
> barely 3000 RPM. I will consider getting a Sensenich later but I am
waiting
> for a few more hours on the clock. With 72 pitch I get up to 1500FPM
climb
> at 90 KTS and so I think you will not lose much in climb rate with the
new
> prop. and it should fix the WOT factor about right. Please let me know
how
> it works out !
>
> That must be a slippery air frame.
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter
>
>
> _____
>
> From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> N1BZRich(at)aol.com
> Sent: Monday, 29 October 2007 1:26 AM
> Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: 3300 exhaust system
>
>
> Peter,
>
> I still don't have the right prop. The current one is a 64ZK55 wood
> Sensenich and I can still over speed the engine at WOT by quite a bit -
even
> up at 5000 feet or more. At sea level I really have to bring the
throttle
> back to keep it at 3300 rpm and with that I am seeing an average of 205
MPH
> indicated. At 5000 feet on a standard day I can overspeed the engine
with
> this prop by something over 150 rpm. True airspeed in MPH at 5000 and
the
> throttle pulled back to 3300 is something like 185 to 188 mph tas. I
have a
> 62FK68 on order that should be closer to the right prop. Will likely be
at
> least another month until that shows up. In the mean time, with the
current
> prop, I cruise at 8,000 to 10,000 feet on an XC at about 170 mph tas but
am
> only burning about 5.8 gallons per hour - pretty good economy. Even
with
> this current prop take off roll is still short (about 600' at gross
weight),
> and rate of climb is still good (initially about 1200 fpm).
>
> Blue Skies,
>
> Buz
>
>
> _____
>
> See what's new at
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Stator coil problem |
| From: | n282rs(at)satx.rr.com |
No, she's been too sick to fly with me.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: dredmoody(at)cox.net
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 15:31:25
To:jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Stator coil problem
Ask the engine manufacturer what screws to use for the stator. Stainless steel
may be weaker than the ones called for. Also ask if a Loctite product (and which
one) should be used on those screws.
Was your wife on board this time? She may begin to think she's snake bit.
Dred
---- Randy Stout wrote:
>
>
>
> I flew my plane from San Antonio Texas to Casa Grande AZ to the Copperstate
> Fly-in. On the way back the engine developed a whirring noise at low RPM. On
> the ground I found that when the prop was pulled through by hand the stator
> would jiggle opposite of the prop direction, apparently being pulled toward
> the approaching magnet. When I removed the stator assembly, 3 of the stator
> mounting screws fell out. They had broken off. The forth screw broke as I
> was trying to remove it. I don't see anything loose like a magnet or the
> flywheel.
>
> Has anyone experienced this problem in the past? If so what was needed to
> keep it from happening again.? At the moment, I'm thinking about getting
> stainless steel screws to replace the standard screws that broke. I was also
> going to check the flywheel bolts while I have access to them and anything
> else I can get my hands on.
>
> Randy Stout
> San Antonio TX
> www.geocities.com/n282rs
> n282rs at satx.rr.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Notification of Jabiru Service Bulletin JSB018-1 |
| From: | "mosquito56" <mosquito-56(at)hotmail.com> |
Just sent my deposit for my engine about an hour ago. Ordered the 3300 with all
the bells and whistles. Will this service bulletin affect me?
Hmmm, not to late to stop payment on the check. LOL j/k.
Don
--------
Don Merritt- Laredo, Tx
Apologies if I seem antagonistic.
I believe in the freeflowing ideas and discussions between individuals for assistance
in this thing we call life.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=142845#142845
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | New owners tools question |
| From: | "mosquito56" <mosquito-56(at)hotmail.com> |
I just mailed my deposit on my new Jab3300. Are there any tools I should order
now?
I was watching the how-to video with can-zac and he was pulling apart the
carburetor. Do I need the jet removal tool? What else. Your input is greatly appreciated.
Don
zod601xl
N601NV reserved
Texas
--------
Don Merritt- Laredo, Tx
Apologies if I seem antagonistic.
I believe in the freeflowing ideas and discussions between individuals for assistance
in this thing we call life.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=142846#142846
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Pickford" <kpickford(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Notification of Jabiru Service Bulletin JSB018-1 |
Bells and Whistles were not an option when we got ours ???????
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
mosquito56
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 1:00 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Re: Notification of Jabiru Service Bulletin
JSB018-1
Just sent my deposit for my engine about an hour ago. Ordered the 3300
with all the bells and whistles. Will this service bulletin affect me?
Hmmm, not to late to stop payment on the check. LOL j/k.
Don
--------
Don Merritt- Laredo, Tx
Apologies if I seem antagonistic.
I believe in the freeflowing ideas and discussions between individuals
for assistance in this thing we call life.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=142845#142845
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "T. Graziano" <tonyplane(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | re: New owners tools question |
Don,
I believe you will love the Jab in your 601 XL - I sure do in mine.
For routine preventative maintenance, common hand tools should suffice.
The only thing you may or may not have in your tool box are 3/16 and 1/4
inch ball nose 3/8 inch drive long hex wrenches. These can be used many
places on the engine to check torque or to remove cap screws.
Not a problem changing out any carb jets with common 1/4 drive socket
wrenches (10 mm, if I recall correctly). I doubt if you will have to
change the jets with a new engine though.
One thing I changed on the engine was to install a quick change oil
change valve in place of the oil plug. Sure makes changing oil easier.
Put one end of a hose on the valve with the other end in a
bottle/container and open the valve - no mess. Bought mine from Jab
USA for about $25, I think.
Tony Graziano
Zodiac 601XL/Jab3300; N493TG; 314 really enjoyable hours
Buchanan, Tn
------------------------------------
Subject: New owners tools question
From: mosquito56 (mosquito-56(at)hotmail.com)
Date: Tue Oct 30 - 5:06 PM
I just mailed my deposit on my new Jab3300. Are there any tools I should
order
now?
I was watching the how-to video with can-zac and he was pulling
apart the
carburetor. Do I need the jet removal tool? What else. Your input is
greatly appreciated.
Don
zod601xl
N601NV reserved
Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Carb jet changes |
I had an interesting week working on the Bing carb on my serial #2062
Jabiru 2200A engine. I had been running the engine with the cowl off,
and I noticed that fuel was going up the clear tube that is the carb
bowl vent. I assumed that this was a temporary overflow of fuel and
it would soon be gone with the engine running, but it was not.
However, revving the engine got rid of the fuel in that line.
Finally, I closed the main fuel valve, and shut the engine off. I
then took the incoming air hose off the carb, and about a half-cup of
fuel gushed out. This led me to believe that the float needle was
leaking...DUH! It turned out to be exactly that. I ordered a new
needle and seat, and a #40 idle jet. The reason for ordering the jet
was I had read others' comments that the #40 jet took care of their
idling problems. With the new needle and seat in place, and #40 jet
too, the engine ran great, and I could get the idle down to below
900, and it was smooth. Later on, I decide to test the old #45 jet,
so I reinstalled it, and the engine ran great with that (original)
jet. So my major problem was with the float needle and seat, and
nothing else. Amazingly, I have had this bad idle problem for some
time now, and it's been a leaking needle and seat all along. I had
been just learning to deal with the rough idle.
Along with curing the rough idle, I no longer have to shut the main
fuel valve off 30 seconds before I shut the engine down. I thought by
doing this, I was lowering the fuel level in the float bowl, and
thereby keeping the carb from "boiling over", but I was just using up
the excess fuel that was already (probably) laying in the inlet air
hose.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/420+ hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Carb jet changes |
Lynn
I found with the J3300 that the needle seat supplied is 2.25mm and according
to Bing engineers is meant for gravity feed. Anything above 2500RPM and it
ran over rich.
I replaced that seat with the 1.5mm seat recommended by Bing and that cured
rich running all the way to WOT and EGT was within recommended range
although hotter, but if I turned on the electric boost pump even this 1.5mm
seat leaked and caused a big increase in fuel consumption. I discussed with
Jabiru engineers and they confirmed policy to run with the over size seat to
cool the engine and it "works" OK up to 2700 RPM and is "safe" above that
with consumption up to 40LPH.
I am now using TBI and have total control of mixture full range.
Peter H
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lynn
Matteson
Sent: Friday, 2 November 2007 7:09 AM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Carb jet changes
I had an interesting week working on the Bing carb on my serial #2062
Jabiru 2200A engine. I had been running the engine with the cowl off,
and I noticed that fuel was going up the clear tube that is the carb
bowl vent. I assumed that this was a temporary overflow of fuel and
it would soon be gone with the engine running, but it was not.
However, revving the engine got rid of the fuel in that line.
Finally, I closed the main fuel valve, and shut the engine off. I
then took the incoming air hose off the carb, and about a half-cup of
fuel gushed out. This led me to believe that the float needle was
leaking...DUH! It turned out to be exactly that. I ordered a new
needle and seat, and a #40 idle jet. The reason for ordering the jet
was I had read others' comments that the #40 jet took care of their
idling problems. With the new needle and seat in place, and #40 jet
too, the engine ran great, and I could get the idle down to below
900, and it was smooth. Later on, I decide to test the old #45 jet,
so I reinstalled it, and the engine ran great with that (original)
jet. So my major problem was with the float needle and seat, and
nothing else. Amazingly, I have had this bad idle problem for some
time now, and it's been a leaking needle and seat all along. I had
been just learning to deal with the rough idle.
Along with curing the rough idle, I no longer have to shut the main
fuel valve off 30 seconds before I shut the engine down. I thought by
doing this, I was lowering the fuel level in the float bowl, and
thereby keeping the carb from "boiling over", but I was just using up
the excess fuel that was already (probably) laying in the inlet air
hose.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/420+ hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Carb jet changes |
Hi Peter-
I have an electric boost pump, but only use it to insure fuel at the
carb after any work done, or to check for carb leakage, like I found
this week. A test pilot turned it on while landing a year ago (not
knowing any better) and the engine quit. Without the electric pump,
and with only the mechanical Jabiru pump operating while engine is
running, the gauge reads 2 lbs. pressure, and all seems to be fine.
I should note that when I first got the plane up after the changes,
it was running hotter on the right-hand 2 cylinders. I rotated the
carb according to the "old wives tale", that is rotate the top of the
carb towards the cool, rich side, and that helped. I then rotated it
again, a little more this time, and the cylinders are within 60-70 F
of one another, for most of the operating range...certainly where it
operates the most, at cruising speed. Having had the plenum chamber
and carb off last week I can see how this works. If the carb is
rotated, the spray pattern will change in respect to the divider that
is situated inside the plenum chamber. Apparently if the carb top is
rotated towards the cool side, the spray pattern is divided more
toward the hot, lean side, and the temps between the two sides become
closer together. At least that's what I've been able to observe.
It's late at night and my memory is fading...what's TBI? A type of
carb, I'm assuming? I'm just not recalling....
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/420+ hrs
On Nov 1, 2007, at 9:01 PM, Peter Harris wrote:
>
>
> Lynn
> I found with the J3300 that the needle seat supplied is 2.25mm and
> according
> to Bing engineers is meant for gravity feed. Anything above 2500RPM
> and it
> ran over rich.
> I replaced that seat with the 1.5mm seat recommended by Bing and
> that cured
> rich running all the way to WOT and EGT was within recommended range
> although hotter, but if I turned on the electric boost pump even
> this 1.5mm
> seat leaked and caused a big increase in fuel consumption. I
> discussed with
> Jabiru engineers and they confirmed policy to run with the over
> size seat to
> cool the engine and it "works" OK up to 2700 RPM and is "safe"
> above that
> with consumption up to 40LPH.
> I am now using TBI and have total control of mixture full range.
> Peter H
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Lynn
> Matteson
> Sent: Friday, 2 November 2007 7:09 AM
> To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Carb jet changes
>
>
>
> I had an interesting week working on the Bing carb on my serial #2062
> Jabiru 2200A engine. I had been running the engine with the cowl off,
> and I noticed that fuel was going up the clear tube that is the carb
> bowl vent. I assumed that this was a temporary overflow of fuel and
> it would soon be gone with the engine running, but it was not.
> However, revving the engine got rid of the fuel in that line.
> Finally, I closed the main fuel valve, and shut the engine off. I
> then took the incoming air hose off the carb, and about a half-cup of
> fuel gushed out. This led me to believe that the float needle was
> leaking...DUH! It turned out to be exactly that. I ordered a new
> needle and seat, and a #40 idle jet. The reason for ordering the jet
> was I had read others' comments that the #40 jet took care of their
> idling problems. With the new needle and seat in place, and #40 jet
> too, the engine ran great, and I could get the idle down to below
> 900, and it was smooth. Later on, I decide to test the old #45 jet,
> so I reinstalled it, and the engine ran great with that (original)
> jet. So my major problem was with the float needle and seat, and
> nothing else. Amazingly, I have had this bad idle problem for some
> time now, and it's been a leaking needle and seat all along. I had
> been just learning to deal with the rough idle.
>
> Along with curing the rough idle, I no longer have to shut the main
> fuel valve off 30 seconds before I shut the engine down. I thought by
> doing this, I was lowering the fuel level in the float bowl, and
> thereby keeping the carb from "boiling over", but I was just using up
> the excess fuel that was already (probably) laying in the inlet air
> hose.
>
>
> Lynn Matteson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Carb jet changes |
Lynn
By TBI I mean throttle body fuel injection. I have a 45mm throttle body with
two injectors.
Rotating the carb. means that the partly opened butterfly is directing the
air/fuel flow to one side or the other and this affects mixture rich or lean
each side of the plenum.
With the throttle body I have it mounted so the butterfly axis is horizontal
and the problem does not arise.
Peter H
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lynn
Matteson
Sent: Friday, 2 November 2007 11:49 AM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Carb jet changes
Hi Peter-
I have an electric boost pump, but only use it to insure fuel at the
carb after any work done, or to check for carb leakage, like I found
this week. A test pilot turned it on while landing a year ago (not
knowing any better) and the engine quit. Without the electric pump,
and with only the mechanical Jabiru pump operating while engine is
running, the gauge reads 2 lbs. pressure, and all seems to be fine.
I should note that when I first got the plane up after the changes,
it was running hotter on the right-hand 2 cylinders. I rotated the
carb according to the "old wives tale", that is rotate the top of the
carb towards the cool, rich side, and that helped. I then rotated it
again, a little more this time, and the cylinders are within 60-70 F
of one another, for most of the operating range...certainly where it
operates the most, at cruising speed. Having had the plenum chamber
and carb off last week I can see how this works. If the carb is
rotated, the spray pattern will change in respect to the divider that
is situated inside the plenum chamber. Apparently if the carb top is
rotated towards the cool side, the spray pattern is divided more
toward the hot, lean side, and the temps between the two sides become
closer together. At least that's what I've been able to observe.
It's late at night and my memory is fading...what's TBI? A type of
carb, I'm assuming? I'm just not recalling....
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/420+ hrs
On Nov 1, 2007, at 9:01 PM, Peter Harris wrote:
>
>
> Lynn
> I found with the J3300 that the needle seat supplied is 2.25mm and
> according
> to Bing engineers is meant for gravity feed. Anything above 2500RPM
> and it
> ran over rich.
> I replaced that seat with the 1.5mm seat recommended by Bing and
> that cured
> rich running all the way to WOT and EGT was within recommended range
> although hotter, but if I turned on the electric boost pump even
> this 1.5mm
> seat leaked and caused a big increase in fuel consumption. I
> discussed with
> Jabiru engineers and they confirmed policy to run with the over
> size seat to
> cool the engine and it "works" OK up to 2700 RPM and is "safe"
> above that
> with consumption up to 40LPH.
> I am now using TBI and have total control of mixture full range.
> Peter H
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Lynn
> Matteson
> Sent: Friday, 2 November 2007 7:09 AM
> To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Carb jet changes
>
>
>
> I had an interesting week working on the Bing carb on my serial #2062
> Jabiru 2200A engine. I had been running the engine with the cowl off,
> and I noticed that fuel was going up the clear tube that is the carb
> bowl vent. I assumed that this was a temporary overflow of fuel and
> it would soon be gone with the engine running, but it was not.
> However, revving the engine got rid of the fuel in that line.
> Finally, I closed the main fuel valve, and shut the engine off. I
> then took the incoming air hose off the carb, and about a half-cup of
> fuel gushed out. This led me to believe that the float needle was
> leaking...DUH! It turned out to be exactly that. I ordered a new
> needle and seat, and a #40 idle jet. The reason for ordering the jet
> was I had read others' comments that the #40 jet took care of their
> idling problems. With the new needle and seat in place, and #40 jet
> too, the engine ran great, and I could get the idle down to below
> 900, and it was smooth. Later on, I decide to test the old #45 jet,
> so I reinstalled it, and the engine ran great with that (original)
> jet. So my major problem was with the float needle and seat, and
> nothing else. Amazingly, I have had this bad idle problem for some
> time now, and it's been a leaking needle and seat all along. I had
> been just learning to deal with the rough idle.
>
> Along with curing the rough idle, I no longer have to shut the main
> fuel valve off 30 seconds before I shut the engine down. I thought by
> doing this, I was lowering the fuel level in the float bowl, and
> thereby keeping the carb from "boiling over", but I was just using up
> the excess fuel that was already (probably) laying in the inlet air
> hose.
>
>
> Lynn Matteson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dredmoody(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Carb jet changes |
Actually, according to Pete Krotje, rotating the top of the carb toward the cool
side works because it moves the jet, which is on the bottom of the carb throat,
toward the hot side. The Bottom of the intake stream where the jet is spewing
fuel, tends to be the richer area in the intake stream going inmto the plenum.
Moving that rich segment of the intake flow to the hot (lean) side richens
the mixture for the cylinders on that side.
At least that's what I was taught.
Dred
---- Peter Harris wrote:
>
> Lynn
> By TBI I mean throttle body fuel injection. I have a 45mm throttle body with
> two injectors.
> Rotating the carb. means that the partly opened butterfly is directing the
> air/fuel flow to one side or the other and this affects mixture rich or lean
> each side of the plenum.
> With the throttle body I have it mounted so the butterfly axis is horizontal
> and the problem does not arise.
> Peter H
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lynn
> Matteson
> Sent: Friday, 2 November 2007 11:49 AM
> To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Carb jet changes
>
>
> Hi Peter-
> I have an electric boost pump, but only use it to insure fuel at the
> carb after any work done, or to check for carb leakage, like I found
> this week. A test pilot turned it on while landing a year ago (not
> knowing any better) and the engine quit. Without the electric pump,
> and with only the mechanical Jabiru pump operating while engine is
> running, the gauge reads 2 lbs. pressure, and all seems to be fine.
>
> I should note that when I first got the plane up after the changes,
> it was running hotter on the right-hand 2 cylinders. I rotated the
> carb according to the "old wives tale", that is rotate the top of the
> carb towards the cool, rich side, and that helped. I then rotated it
> again, a little more this time, and the cylinders are within 60-70 F
> of one another, for most of the operating range...certainly where it
> operates the most, at cruising speed. Having had the plenum chamber
> and carb off last week I can see how this works. If the carb is
> rotated, the spray pattern will change in respect to the divider that
> is situated inside the plenum chamber. Apparently if the carb top is
> rotated towards the cool side, the spray pattern is divided more
> toward the hot, lean side, and the temps between the two sides become
> closer together. At least that's what I've been able to observe.
>
> It's late at night and my memory is fading...what's TBI? A type of
> carb, I'm assuming? I'm just not recalling....
>
> Lynn Matteson
> Grass Lake, Michigan
> Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
> flying w/420+ hrs
>
>
>
>
>
> On Nov 1, 2007, at 9:01 PM, Peter Harris wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Lynn
> > I found with the J3300 that the needle seat supplied is 2.25mm and
> > according
> > to Bing engineers is meant for gravity feed. Anything above 2500RPM
> > and it
> > ran over rich.
> > I replaced that seat with the 1.5mm seat recommended by Bing and
> > that cured
> > rich running all the way to WOT and EGT was within recommended range
> > although hotter, but if I turned on the electric boost pump even
> > this 1.5mm
> > seat leaked and caused a big increase in fuel consumption. I
> > discussed with
> > Jabiru engineers and they confirmed policy to run with the over
> > size seat to
> > cool the engine and it "works" OK up to 2700 RPM and is "safe"
> > above that
> > with consumption up to 40LPH.
> > I am now using TBI and have total control of mixture full range.
> > Peter H
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> > Lynn
> > Matteson
> > Sent: Friday, 2 November 2007 7:09 AM
> > To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Carb jet changes
> >
> >
> >
> > I had an interesting week working on the Bing carb on my serial #2062
> > Jabiru 2200A engine. I had been running the engine with the cowl off,
> > and I noticed that fuel was going up the clear tube that is the carb
> > bowl vent. I assumed that this was a temporary overflow of fuel and
> > it would soon be gone with the engine running, but it was not.
> > However, revving the engine got rid of the fuel in that line.
> > Finally, I closed the main fuel valve, and shut the engine off. I
> > then took the incoming air hose off the carb, and about a half-cup of
> > fuel gushed out. This led me to believe that the float needle was
> > leaking...DUH! It turned out to be exactly that. I ordered a new
> > needle and seat, and a #40 idle jet. The reason for ordering the jet
> > was I had read others' comments that the #40 jet took care of their
> > idling problems. With the new needle and seat in place, and #40 jet
> > too, the engine ran great, and I could get the idle down to below
> > 900, and it was smooth. Later on, I decide to test the old #45 jet,
> > so I reinstalled it, and the engine ran great with that (original)
> > jet. So my major problem was with the float needle and seat, and
> > nothing else. Amazingly, I have had this bad idle problem for some
> > time now, and it's been a leaking needle and seat all along. I had
> > been just learning to deal with the rough idle.
> >
> > Along with curing the rough idle, I no longer have to shut the main
> > fuel valve off 30 seconds before I shut the engine down. I thought by
> > doing this, I was lowering the fuel level in the float bowl, and
> > thereby keeping the carb from "boiling over", but I was just using up
> > the excess fuel that was already (probably) laying in the inlet air
> > hose.
> >
> >
> > Lynn Matteson
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Carb jet changes |
Excellent, Dred. That's the way I had it figured out, and now that I
see the divider inside the plenum, it makes more sense to me WHY the
rotation of the carb works.
Lynn
On Nov 2, 2007, at 9:19 AM, wrote:
>
> Actually, according to Pete Krotje, rotating the top of the carb
> toward the cool side works because it moves the jet, which is on
> the bottom of the carb throat, toward the hot side. The Bottom of
> the intake stream where the jet is spewing fuel, tends to be the
> richer area in the intake stream going inmto the plenum. Moving
> that rich segment of the intake flow to the hot (lean) side richens
> the mixture for the cylinders on that side.
>
> At least that's what I was taught.
>
> Dred
>
> ---- Peter Harris wrote:
>>
>>
>> Lynn
>> By TBI I mean throttle body fuel injection. I have a 45mm throttle
>> body with
>> two injectors.
>> Rotating the carb. means that the partly opened butterfly is
>> directing the
>> air/fuel flow to one side or the other and this affects mixture
>> rich or lean
>> each side of the plenum.
>> With the throttle body I have it mounted so the butterfly axis is
>> horizontal
>> and the problem does not arise.
>> Peter H
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>> Lynn
>> Matteson
>> Sent: Friday, 2 November 2007 11:49 AM
>> To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Carb jet changes
>>
>>
>>
>> Hi Peter-
>> I have an electric boost pump, but only use it to insure fuel at the
>> carb after any work done, or to check for carb leakage, like I found
>> this week. A test pilot turned it on while landing a year ago (not
>> knowing any better) and the engine quit. Without the electric pump,
>> and with only the mechanical Jabiru pump operating while engine is
>> running, the gauge reads 2 lbs. pressure, and all seems to be fine.
>>
>> I should note that when I first got the plane up after the changes,
>> it was running hotter on the right-hand 2 cylinders. I rotated the
>> carb according to the "old wives tale", that is rotate the top of the
>> carb towards the cool, rich side, and that helped. I then rotated it
>> again, a little more this time, and the cylinders are within 60-70 F
>> of one another, for most of the operating range...certainly where it
>> operates the most, at cruising speed. Having had the plenum chamber
>> and carb off last week I can see how this works. If the carb is
>> rotated, the spray pattern will change in respect to the divider that
>> is situated inside the plenum chamber. Apparently if the carb top is
>> rotated towards the cool side, the spray pattern is divided more
>> toward the hot, lean side, and the temps between the two sides become
>> closer together. At least that's what I've been able to observe.
>>
>> It's late at night and my memory is fading...what's TBI? A type of
>> carb, I'm assuming? I'm just not recalling....
>>
>> Lynn Matteson
>> Grass Lake, Michigan
>> Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
>> flying w/420+ hrs
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Nov 1, 2007, at 9:01 PM, Peter Harris wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Lynn
>>> I found with the J3300 that the needle seat supplied is 2.25mm and
>>> according
>>> to Bing engineers is meant for gravity feed. Anything above 2500RPM
>>> and it
>>> ran over rich.
>>> I replaced that seat with the 1.5mm seat recommended by Bing and
>>> that cured
>>> rich running all the way to WOT and EGT was within recommended range
>>> although hotter, but if I turned on the electric boost pump even
>>> this 1.5mm
>>> seat leaked and caused a big increase in fuel consumption. I
>>> discussed with
>>> Jabiru engineers and they confirmed policy to run with the over
>>> size seat to
>>> cool the engine and it "works" OK up to 2700 RPM and is "safe"
>>> above that
>>> with consumption up to 40LPH.
>>> I am now using TBI and have total control of mixture full range.
>>> Peter H
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>>> Lynn
>>> Matteson
>>> Sent: Friday, 2 November 2007 7:09 AM
>>> To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
>>> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Carb jet changes
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I had an interesting week working on the Bing carb on my serial
>>> #2062
>>> Jabiru 2200A engine. I had been running the engine with the cowl
>>> off,
>>> and I noticed that fuel was going up the clear tube that is the carb
>>> bowl vent. I assumed that this was a temporary overflow of fuel and
>>> it would soon be gone with the engine running, but it was not.
>>> However, revving the engine got rid of the fuel in that line.
>>> Finally, I closed the main fuel valve, and shut the engine off. I
>>> then took the incoming air hose off the carb, and about a half-
>>> cup of
>>> fuel gushed out. This led me to believe that the float needle was
>>> leaking...DUH! It turned out to be exactly that. I ordered a new
>>> needle and seat, and a #40 idle jet. The reason for ordering the jet
>>> was I had read others' comments that the #40 jet took care of their
>>> idling problems. With the new needle and seat in place, and #40 jet
>>> too, the engine ran great, and I could get the idle down to below
>>> 900, and it was smooth. Later on, I decide to test the old #45 jet,
>>> so I reinstalled it, and the engine ran great with that (original)
>>> jet. So my major problem was with the float needle and seat, and
>>> nothing else. Amazingly, I have had this bad idle problem for some
>>> time now, and it's been a leaking needle and seat all along. I had
>>> been just learning to deal with the rough idle.
>>>
>>> Along with curing the rough idle, I no longer have to shut the main
>>> fuel valve off 30 seconds before I shut the engine down. I
>>> thought by
>>> doing this, I was lowering the fuel level in the float bowl, and
>>> thereby keeping the carb from "boiling over", but I was just
>>> using up
>>> the excess fuel that was already (probably) laying in the inlet air
>>> hose.
>>>
>>>
>>> Lynn Matteson
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ernie Rairdin <ernie(at)rairdin.com> |
Hi Guys
The airport where our J250 is hangered now sells both 100LL and 91
Octane auto fuel. Curious what some of you use in the 3300 engine. We've
been using 100LL, as that's what was available..
Ernie (still working on my license)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com> |
Ernie,
I have been using PULP 95 OK but prefer 98octane PULP.
Peter H
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ernie
Rairdin
Sent: Saturday, 3 November 2007 7:37 AM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Fuel Type
Hi Guys
The airport where our J250 is hangered now sells both 100LL and 91
Octane auto fuel. Curious what some of you use in the 3300 engine. We've
been using 100LL, as that's what was available..
Ernie (still working on my license)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BobsV35B(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 11/3/2007 2:37:15 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com writes:
Ernie,
I have been using PULP 95 OK but prefer 98octane PULP.
Peter H
Good Morning Peter,
Please excuse my ignorance, but could you explain what PULP stands for?
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Air Park LL22
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8503
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave G." <d.goddard(at)ns.sympatico.ca> |
I think it is an acronym for Premium UnLeaded Petrol.
----- Original Message -----
From: BobsV35B(at)aol.com
To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, November 03, 2007 6:20 AM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Fuel Type
In a message dated 11/3/2007 2:37:15 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com writes:
Ernie,
I have been using PULP 95 OK but prefer 98octane PULP.
Peter H
Good Morning Peter,
Please excuse my ignorance, but could you explain what PULP stands
for?
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Air Park LL22
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8503
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
See what's
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com> |
Old Bob,
PULP = Premium Unleaded Petrol.. sold down here.
Regards
Old Peter H
_____
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
BobsV35B(at)aol.com
Sent: Saturday, 3 November 2007 7:21 PM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Fuel Type
In a message dated 11/3/2007 2:37:15 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com writes:
Ernie,
I have been using PULP 95 OK but prefer 98octane PULP.
Peter H
Good Morning Peter,
Please excuse my ignorance, but could you explain what PULP stands for?
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Stearman N3977A
Brookeridge Air Park LL22
Downers Grove, IL 60516
630 985-8503
_____
See what's
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | List Fund Raiser |
Dear Listers,
Just a reminder that November is the Matronics Email List Fund Raiser month. I've
got a bunch of really nice incentive gifts this year. There's really something
for everyone!
Please make a Contribution today:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | What Listers Are Saying... |
November is Matronics List Fund Raiser month and a number people been sending some
really nice comments regarding the Lists. I thought I'd share a few below.
The Lists are completely supported by your Contributions. All of the bills for
new hardware, connectivity, and electricity are paid by the generous support
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Please make your Contribution today to support the continued operation of the List
and Forums:
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Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
================= What Listers Are Saying ================
Flying and building is much safer with this List!!
Robert D.
Thanks for having and maintaining such a great resource to
all of us builders and flyers.
Wayne E.
Love the fact that you haven't caved to advertising!
Peter J.
..a great resource!!
Robert C.
Not building at the moment, but the Lists keeps me right
up to date with what's going on.
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I enjoy this [List] site very much...
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This is a great list!
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..a valuable resource!
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I am deployed to Pakistan right now, and being able
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The opportunity to meet (on line at least) many other
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Carb jet changes |
| From: | "avidflyer01" <vegayacht(at)club.fr> |
Lynn,I also noticed that if I remove the SCAT tube which connects the carb to the
air filter, there is some petrol sitting there (if the engine has just been
running); I also experience some troubles as to idle, if I reduce power to around
800rpm the engine will progressively start slowing down and will eventually
quit after some 30-45secs (as it occasionally does on final if I don't baby
it with throttle). exhaust is definitely sooty in spite of high EGT in flight.
I will try putting a new idle/seat; it sounds surprising, though, because I would
expect to find a puddle of gas under the plane if left with a valve open -
which is not the case in my plane.
martin
avid flyer STOL HH w/Jab2200
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=144710#144710
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Carb jet changes |
Martin,
1. The needle valve seat supplied is 2.25mm meant for gravity feed and
Bing specify a 1.5mm seat for pump feed. The 2.25mm seat leaks under pump
pressure causing an excessive rich mixture but this normally is worse at the
higher throttle settings.
2. When throttle is reduced quickly some excess unused fuel runs back
down the induction tubes and floods through the top of the carby. and into
the scat.
Peter H
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
avidflyer01
Sent: Friday, 9 November 2007 3:13 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Re: Carb jet changes
Lynn,I also noticed that if I remove the SCAT tube which connects the carb
to the air filter, there is some petrol sitting there (if the engine has
just been running); I also experience some troubles as to idle, if I reduce
power to around 800rpm the engine will progressively start slowing down and
will eventually quit after some 30-45secs (as it occasionally does on final
if I don't baby it with throttle). exhaust is definitely sooty in spite of
high EGT in flight.
I will try putting a new idle/seat; it sounds surprising, though, because I
would expect to find a puddle of gas under the plane if left with a valve
open - which is not the case in my plane.
martin
avid flyer STOL HH w/Jab2200
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=144710#144710
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | If You Got This Email, You Haven't Made A Contribution |
Yet! :-)
Dear Listers,
If you received this particular Matronics List Email message, its because you haven't
yet made a Contribution to support your Lists! Implemented for the first
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You heard that right. Once you make your Contribution, these support requests
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If you appreciate the ad-free, grass-roots, down-home feel of the Matronics Email
Lists, please make a Contribution to keep it that way!!
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[Please note the following regarding the selective posting system. There are certain
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These situations include if someone replies to one of the messages, or when
using the List Browse feature, or when accessing List message via the Forum.
Since most of these are anonymous public access methods, there is no simple way
to filter them.]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Carb jet changes |
Martin-
Are you really using SCAT hose directly to the carb? My instructions
warned against that, as the engine wants a nice smooth flow of air,
for the last 4 inches at least. The air must flow smoothly into the
carb because the two air sensor ports need a smooth and equal flow in
order to operate properly...or so the instructions say.
Your idle problems sound just *exactly* like mine did before I
installed the newer, and smaller, float needle and seat. Now I can
fly the plane, land, taxi to wherever on the field, and shut the
engine off....no more having to shut off the main fuel valve a
certain amount of time before I shut the engine down...no more
worrying about whether it will start when hot...just no more treating
the engine differently. Hell, with the engine operating like this, I
could rent it out as a training plane...NOT!
Maybe your leak was not as great as mine, Martin, or it evaporates
quickly (no puddle under yours). My rubber air hose to my carb, for
the carb incoming air, is a piece of truck radiator hose, and unless
it had a long-standing pool of gas sitting in it, would not leak any
fuel until it rotted away.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/420+ hrs
On Nov 9, 2007, at 12:12 AM, avidflyer01 wrote:
>
>
> Lynn,I also noticed that if I remove the SCAT tube which connects
> the carb to the air filter, there is some petrol sitting there (if
> the engine has just been running); I also experience some troubles
> as to idle, if I reduce power to around 800rpm the engine will
> progressively start slowing down and will eventually quit after
> some 30-45secs (as it occasionally does on final if I don't baby it
> with throttle). exhaust is definitely sooty in spite of high EGT in
> flight.
>
> I will try putting a new idle/seat; it sounds surprising, though,
> because I would expect to find a puddle of gas under the plane if
> left with a valve open - which is not the case in my plane.
>
> martin
> avid flyer STOL HH w/Jab2200
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=144710#144710
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Carb jet changes |
| From: | "avidflyer01" <vegayacht(at)club.fr> |
Lynn, I was also warned against the use of scat hose; My initial setup that dit
not include airbox (had only 90elbow from truck radiator hose and conical air
filter on it) worked fine. Then I decided to mount the airbox - I think Avids
have less room between carb intake and firewall (70mm) compared to Kitfoxes
and my rubber elbow would not fit any longer.
So I went for a scat hose, just to try, and it actually works fine (I also flew
with carb intake simply open, I don't see any noticable diffrence in power, smoothness,
or EGT.
of course it is very difficult to put a scat on the narrow flange of the carb and
tighten the clamp without having it slide off. But if you achieve it correctly,
it works.
I am at present making an epoxy "cobra head" to have a firm fit to the carb and
a smooth air transition.
martin
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=145018#145018
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Ballenger" <ulpilot(at)cavtel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Carb jet changes |
Lynn
I read your story in the Sport Pilot. Great job.
Jim Ballenger
Sonex 760 TD / Jabiru 2200
Virginia Beach, VA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lynn Matteson" <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>
Sent: Friday, November 09, 2007 6:59 AM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Re: Carb jet changes
>
> Martin-
> Are you really using SCAT hose directly to the carb? My instructions
> warned against that, as the engine wants a nice smooth flow of air,
> for the last 4 inches at least. The air must flow smoothly into the
> carb because the two air sensor ports need a smooth and equal flow in
> order to operate properly...or so the instructions say.
>
> Your idle problems sound just *exactly* like mine did before I
> installed the newer, and smaller, float needle and seat. Now I can
> fly the plane, land, taxi to wherever on the field, and shut the
> engine off....no more having to shut off the main fuel valve a
> certain amount of time before I shut the engine down...no more
> worrying about whether it will start when hot...just no more treating
> the engine differently. Hell, with the engine operating like this, I
> could rent it out as a training plane...NOT!
>
> Maybe your leak was not as great as mine, Martin, or it evaporates
> quickly (no puddle under yours). My rubber air hose to my carb, for
> the carb incoming air, is a piece of truck radiator hose, and unless
> it had a long-standing pool of gas sitting in it, would not leak any
> fuel until it rotted away.
>
> Lynn Matteson
> Grass Lake, Michigan
> Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
> flying w/420+ hrs
>
>
> On Nov 9, 2007, at 12:12 AM, avidflyer01 wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Lynn,I also noticed that if I remove the SCAT tube which connects
>> the carb to the air filter, there is some petrol sitting there (if
>> the engine has just been running); I also experience some troubles
>> as to idle, if I reduce power to around 800rpm the engine will
>> progressively start slowing down and will eventually quit after
>> some 30-45secs (as it occasionally does on final if I don't baby it
>> with throttle). exhaust is definitely sooty in spite of high EGT in
>> flight.
>>
>> I will try putting a new idle/seat; it sounds surprising, though,
>> because I would expect to find a puddle of gas under the plane if
>> left with a valve open - which is not the case in my plane.
>>
>> martin
>> avid flyer STOL HH w/Jab2200
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=144710#144710
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ALAN BEYER <agbeyer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Carb jet changes |
Here are some pics of the intake elbow I made.=0A=0AZodiac 601HDS, 3300 Jab
iru (350 Hrs.)=0AAl from Oshkosh=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom
: avidflyer01 =0ATo: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com=0AS
ent: Sunday, November 11, 2007 2:18:04 AM=0ASubject: JabiruEngine-List: Re:
1" =0A=0ALynn, I was also warned against the use of scat
hose; My initial setup that dit not include airbox (had only 90=C2=B0elbo
w from truck radiator hose and conical air filter on it) worked fine. Then
I decided to mount the airbox - I think Avids have less room between carb
intake and firewall (70mm) compared to Kitfoxes and my rubber elbow would n
ot fit any longer.=0ASo I went for a scat hose, just to try, and it actuall
y works fine (I also flew with carb intake simply open, I don't see any not
icable diffrence in power, smoothness, or EGT.=0Aof course it is very diffi
cult to put a scat on the narrow flange of the carb and tighten the clamp w
ithout having it slide off. But if you achieve it correctly, it works.=0AI
am at present making an epoxy "cobra head" to have a firm fit to the carb a
nd a smooth air transition.=0Amartin=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online h
ere:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=145018#145018=0A=0A
====================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Post Mortem - Matronics List Pummeled By Spam... |
Dear Listers,
Over a 3-day period, Thursday 11/8 though Saturday 11/10, the Matronics Lists were
pummeled with over 450,000 spam emails causing posting delays and a few duplicate
messages. Yeah, I really said nearly half a million spams! The good
news is that I don't believe a single one of them actually made it to the Lists
thanks to the aggressive List filtering code and the Barracuda spam filter.
The bad news was that it caused quite a back log of email messages starting Friday
and continuing until late Saturday when I noticed that delivery seemed a bit
sluggish. By about 11pm on Saturday night, I had managed to get the backlog
cleared out of the spam filter by temporarily adjusting some of the filtering.
A check of the queues this morning, and everything looks like its working great
and there are no incoming filtering delays and spam levels appear to be back
to "normal".
There were a number of people asking what was going on, so I thought that I'd send
out a follow up post mortem on the event...
November is the annual List Fund Raiser. Your contribution directly enables me
to buy systems like the Barracuda spam filter that keep the List free of that
garbage. Please make a contribution to support your Lists!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Carb jet changes |
I see that you have the air inlet tube coming in from the side. This
is what I was warned against, both in the workshop at Sun 'n' Fun and
in reading the instruction "manual." They say the airflow should come
in from below or above, not from the side, as coming from the side
sends different signals to the two air sensor ports in the top of the
carb throat. But with 350 hours on yours, it must be working well.
I've got ~435 on mine and it works well. I guess that's why we
experiment.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/420+ hrs
On Nov 11, 2007, at 11:04 AM, ALAN BEYER wrote:
> Here are some pics of the intake elbow I made.
>
> Zodiac 601HDS, 3300 Jabiru (350 Hrs.)
> Al from Oshkosh
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: avidflyer01 <vegayacht(at)club.fr>
> To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2007 2:18:04 AM
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Re: Carb jet changes
>
>
>
> Lynn, I was also warned against the use of scat hose; My initial
> setup that dit not include airbox (had only 90elbow from truck
> radiator hose and conical air filter on it) worked fine. Then I
> decided to mount the airbox - I think Avids have less room between
> carb intake and firewall (70mm) compared to Kitfoxes and my rubber
> elbow would not fit any longer.
> So I went for a scat hose, just to try, and it actually works fine
> (I also flew with carb intake simply open, I don't see any
> noticable diffrence in power, smoothness, or EGT.
> of course it is very difficult to put a scat on the narrow flange
> of the carb and tighten the clamp without having it slide off. But
> if you achieve it correctly, it works.
> I am at present making an epoxy "cobra head" to have a firm fit to
> the carb and a smooth air transition.
> martin
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtonbsp;
> atronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List" target=_blank>http://
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | List of Contributors |
Each year at the end of the List Fund Raiser, I post a message acknowledging everyone
that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its sort of
my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation
for the Lists.
Won't you take a moment and assure that your name is on that List of Contributors
(LOC)? As a number of members have pointed out over the years, the List seems
at least - if not a whole lot more - valuable as a building/flying/recreating/entertainment
tool as your typical magazine subscription!
Please take minute and assure that your name is on this year's LOC! Show others
that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is
fast and easy using your Credit card or Paypal on the Secure Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by popping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551-0347
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps
these Lists going and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about
how the Lists have helped you!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Value of the List... |
If you look forward to checking your List email everyday (and a lot of you have
written to say that you do!), then you're probably getting at least 0 or 0 worth
of Entertainment from the Lists each year. You'd pay twice that for a subscription
to some lame magazine or even a dinner out. Isn't the List worth at least
that much to you? Wouldn't it be great if you could pay that amount and get
a well-managed media source free of advertising, SPAM, and viruses? Come to
think of it, you do... :-)
Won't you please take a minute to make your Contribution today and support the
Lists?
Contribution Page:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Again, I want to say THANK YOU to everyone that has made a Contribution thus far
during this year's List Fund Raiser!! These Lists are made possible exclusively
through YOUR generosity!!
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Please Make a Contribution to Support Your Lists... |
Just a reminder that November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Please make a Contribution
today to support the continued operation and upgrade of these great
List services!! And pick up a really nice free gift with your qualifying Contribution
too!
The Contribution Site is fast and easy:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [Please Read] Why I Have A Fund Raiser... |
Dear Listers,
Each year I like to explain why I have a Fund Raiser and also take the opportunity
to express why I think the List Services here provide a superior experience
over the commercial equivalents.
I use the List Fund Raiser each year to offset the costs involved with running
a high performance email list site such as this one. With the annual support from
the List members through the PBS-like Fund Raiser, I have found I can run
the entire site without having to inflect any of the members with those annoying
banner ads flashing up all the time trying to sell little-blue-pills or other
garbage nobody wants or needs. From the comments I've received over the years
regarding the Lists, the great majority of the members really appreciate the
non-commercialism of my List systems and don't mind my 'go-team-go' banter once
a year during November to encourage members to support the Lists.
I believe that the Lists services that I provide here offer many benefits over
the commercial equivalents in a number of ways. The first feature I believe to
be significant is that you cannot receive a computer v*rus from any of these
Lists directly. Each incoming message is filtered and dangerous attachments stripped
off prior to posting. I also provide a Photo and File Share feature that
allows members to share files and bitmaps with other members and everyone can
be assured that these files will be prescanned for any sort of v*rus before
they are posted. More recently, I have enabled limited posting of a number of
file formats including pictures and PDFs.
Another very important feature of this system in my opinion is the extensive List
Archives that are available for download, browsing, and searching. The Archives
go all the way back to the very beginning of each List and with the very
fast Search Engine, the huge size of some of the Archives is a non-issue in quickly
finding the data you're looking for.
And added just a couple of years ago is the new Email List Forum that allows members who prefer the Web BBS-style of List interaction. The beauty of the new List Forums is that they contain the exact same content that is distributed via email. Messages posted via email are cross-posted to the respective Forum and vice versa. The Forums also allow for another convenient method of sharing pictures and other files (http://forums.matronics.com ). Additionally, added recently is the List Wiki that allows members to build their own "Online List Encyclopedia" of sorts, documenting various aspects of their project for all to share ( http://wiki.matronics.com ).
I've been running email Lists and services under the matronics.com domain since
about 1989 starting with RV-List and 30 guys I knew and who where also building
RVs. It has grown into nearly 70 different aviation-related Email Lists and
an associated web site that receives over 34,000,000 hits each year!! Additionally,
the List Email system forwarded well over 77,000 postings last year, accounting
for an unbelievable 33,000,000 (yes, that's 33 MILLION) email messages
delivered to Matronics List subscribers! I think there's a lot of value in supporting
a service that has gone the long haul and is still providing and improving
a high quality service all _without any advertising budget_!
I have to admit running these Lists is a labor of love and I hope it shows in the
quality of the experience that you receive when you get a List Email Message,
Search the Archives, use the List Browser, or surf the Forums and Wiki sites.
The Lists will be here for a long time to come. If you just want to lurk a
while for free, that's great and I encourage you to do so. If you use, appreciate,
and receive value from these Lists, then please support them during the Annual
List Fund Raiser!
List Contribution Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | What Are You Thankful For...? |
Dear Listers,
Here in the United States, Thursday is our National day of Thanksgiving. Many
of us will be traveling to be with our families and friends to share in generous
feasts of plenty and giving thanks for many blessings that have been bestowed
upon us.
Many Listers have expressed over the last couple of weeks how thankful they are
for the Email Lists and Forums here on the Matronics servers and for all of the
assistance and comradery they have experienced being a part of the Lists.
One of my favorite kind of comments is when write to me and says something like,
"Its the first thing I do in the morning while I'm having my morning coffee!".
That's a wonderful tribute to the purpose and function of these Lists. Its
always great to hear I'm not the only one that jumps out of bed each morning
to check my List email!!
Won't you take a minute today and show your appreciation for these Lists and for
their continued operation and upgrade?
The List Contribution Site is:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you in advance for your kind consideration,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Dear Listers,
Below are a few more of the nice comments Listers have been making along with their
Contributions in support of the Lists this year. Please make your Contribution
today to support the continued operation and upgrade of these services.
Remember, there is _no advertising budget_ to keep these Lists funded. It is
solely through your generosity that they continue.
Please make a Contribution:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
------------------------------What Listers Are Saying------------------------------
The list has been invaluable in the building of my Zenith CH701.
George R
Thanks for keeping the lists a non-commercial venue for us
to gather and share knowledge.
Neal G
What a fantastic resource!
Ralph C
It's a pretty cheep troubleshooting tool with and unlimited
resource of personal knowledge.
Bruce G
A full house of Info & Ideas...
Ellery B
I really enjoy the Piet list.
Steven D
The Lists are an indispensable resource for those of us
building OBAM aircraft.
Bret S
..a great service.
Frank D
..all in all it is a great resource if you ask specific
questions.
Richard S
Your list has really helped me in my first build.
Michael W
Always a pleasure to support this great resource...
Richard W
I enjoy the lists very much, they are very beneficial.
Bob L
Great place to chat with other builders and Flyers.
Ellery B
Your lists are a great service to builders and owners!
Richard D
A real good place for someone that is starting to get
interested into flying without investing any money at
first.
Ellery B
The list has been an great help to my building process.
David B
I'm close to finishing my Zenith 601 thanks to you and
the Zenith List.
Jeff D
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Creative Flight AeroCat w/ twin Jabiru 3300 EFI Engines |
| From: | "sonex293" <sonex293(at)gmail.com> |
I was surfing around the Internet this morning and stumbled onto Creative Flight's
website. They list a AeroCat model TR with twin Jabiru 3300 EFI engines producing
135hp each. Hmmm. Anyone know any more about these engine?
Go to http://www.creativeflight.com/aircraft.html and click on TR Specifications. There's even a picture of the twin Jabiru model in the gallery seciton (Gallery 2).
Creative Flight is based in Canada, so I guess they're working with Canadian Jabiru
dealer.
Just thought I would pass along the website for those curious.
--
Michael
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148255#148255
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Ames" <reames(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Creative Flight AeroCat w/ twin Jabiru 3300 EFI |
Engines
Thanks Michael, That AeroCat is quite an eye openner!!! BA
>
> I was surfing around the Internet this morning and stumbled onto Creative
> Flight's website. They list a AeroCat model TR with twin Jabiru 3300 EFI
> engines producing 135hp each. Hmmm. Anyone know any more about these
> engine?
>
> Go to http://www.creativeflight.com/aircraft.html and click on TR
> Specifications. There's even a picture of the twin Jabiru model in the
> gallery seciton (Gallery 2).
>
> Creative Flight is based in Canada, so I guess they're working with
> Canadian Jabiru dealer.
>
> Just thought I would pass along the website for those curious.
>
> --
> Michael
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148255#148255
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Creative Flight AeroCat w/ twin Jabiru 3300 EFI |
Engines
They sure wouldn't be using Aerocarbs !
Peter H
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of sonex293
Sent: Sunday, 25 November 2007 2:45 AM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Creative Flight AeroCat w/ twin Jabiru 3300 EFI
Engines
I was surfing around the Internet this morning and stumbled onto Creative
Flight's website. They list a AeroCat model TR with twin Jabiru 3300 EFI
engines producing 135hp each. Hmmm. Anyone know any more about these
engine?
Go to http://www.creativeflight.com/aircraft.html and click on TR
Specifications. There's even a picture of the twin Jabiru model in the
gallery seciton (Gallery 2).
Creative Flight is based in Canada, so I guess they're working with Canadian
Jabiru dealer.
Just thought I would pass along the website for those curious.
--
Michael
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148255#148255
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Make Sure You're Listed! List of Contributors Published |
Dec 1!
Dear Listers,
The List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner! On December 1st I post
a list of everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists.
Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their
appreciation for the Lists.
As a number of people have pointed out in their Contribution comments, these Lists
seems at least as valuable of a building/flying/recreating tool as a typical
your magazine subscription! And how interactive is a magazine, after all?
Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming LOC? Tell others
that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists
is fast and easy using your Visa, MasterCard, or Paypal account:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551-0347
USA
(Please include your email address on the check!)
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far during this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps
these Lists running and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment
about how the Lists have helped you!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [Please Read] What are "The Lists" and Who's This Matt |
Dralle?
Dear Listers,
Who is Matt Dralle and what exactly are these Lists? Well, I've been working in
the information technology industry for nearly 25 years primarily in computer
networking design and implementation. I have also done extensive work in web
development and CGI design during that time, along with some embedded system
development as well.
I started the Matronics Email Lists back in 1990 with about 30 fellow RV builders
from around the world. Since that time, I have added 63 other kinds of aircraft
related Lists to the line up and numerous other List related services such
as the Forums, Wiki, Archives and Search Engine just to name a few.
For flexibility and reliability, I have chosen to run all of my own servers here
locally. Other List-related systems include a 1 Gigabit, fully switched network
infrastructure, a commercial-grade Netscreen firewall, a Barracuda spam filter,
a local T1 Internet router, and a commercial-grade business T1 Internet
connection with full static addressing.
The computer servers found here include a quad-processor Xeon Linux server for
List web services, a dual-processor Xeon Linux system dedicated to the email processing
List functions, and another P4 Linux system serving as a remote storage
disk farm for the archives, databases, and for an on-line hard drive-based
backup system with 3.2 Terra Bytes of storage! This entire system is protected
by three large, commercial-grade uninterrupted power supply (UPS) systems that
assure the Lists are available even during a local power outage! Speaking
of power, imagine how much electricity it takes to run all of these systems. One
month last Summer, I had a staggering $1368 bill for electricity alone!
I recently upgraded all of the computer racking infrastructure including new power
feeds and dedicated air conditioning for the room that serves as the Computer
Center for the Matronics Email Lists. Last year I added another rack to
house the MONSTER quad-processor web system that didn't quite fit into the first
rack! Here's a composite photo of the List Computer Center before the addition
of the second rack:
http://www.matronics.com/MattDralle-ListComputerCenter.jpg
As you can see, I take running these Lists very seriously and I am dedicated to
providing an always-on, 24x7x365 experience for each and every Lister.
But building and running this system isn't cheap. As I've stated before, I don't
support any of these systems with commercial advertising on the Lists. It is
supported 100% through List member Contributions! That means you... and you...
and YOU!
To that end, I hold a List Fund Raiser each November and ask that members make
a small Contribution to support the continued operation and upgrade of this ever-expanding
system. Its solely YOUR Contributions that keeps it running!
Won't you please take a moment to make a Contribution to support these Lists!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551-0347
USA
(Please include your email address on the check!)
There are some great gifts available with qualifying Contribution levels too!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FW: Stripped Thread Question? |
| From: | "Jeffrey J Paris" <jeffrey-j-paris(at)excite.com> |
Hi Listers,
I was doing my annual condition inspection on the Zenith CH601XL/ JABIRU 3300 this
past weekend. (182 total hours engine and airframe) While I was putting one
of the valve covers back on the engine I noticed a little bit of an aluminium
burr in one of the bolt holes for the 5/8 X 1/4 UNC Socket Head Cap Screws Jab
# PH72624. I ended up pulling quite a long "curly-Q" piece of the burr out
of the hole. For the most part it is stripped.
With that in mind, What would be the best way to repair the stripped hole? I have
been looking at18-8 Stainless Steel Helical Inserts to make the repair.
Or do you re-tap the hole to the next larger size bolt? Any other Ideas? Can't
seem to find anything in any of the "FAA Standard Practices" books on what to
do.
Let us know at your earliest convenience. Thank you for your time and consideration.
Jeff and Peter Paris
N196ZP
_______________________________________________
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Stripped Thread Question? |
| From: | "jetboy" <sanson.r(at)xtra.co.nz> |
Jeff,
I would use Helicoil or similar inserts. The ones I used for an alloy engine
head came with the drill, tap and inserting tool. I'm contemplating having
to do this for the spark plug threads one day - surprised they are not already
fitted because my Continental 0-200 (SA) heads had them from new and the NGK
plugs seem to mess the threads on the way out as if they have too much thread
in the cyl.
Ralph
--------
Ralph - CH701 / 2200a
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149019#149019
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Wow! A Ton of Comments! |
Dear Listers,
I've been getting a ton of great comments from Listers along with their List Support
Contributions lately! I've shared a bunch more below. Please read over
some of them and see what your fellow Listers think of the Lists and Forums.
There are just a couple more days left before the official end of this year's Fund
Raiser. Please make a Contribution today to support the continued upgrade
and operation of these services.
There are still lots of awesome gifts available, so browse the extensive selection
and pickup a nice item along with your qualifying Contribution.
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you in advance for your generous support! It is very much appreciated!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
----------- What Listers Are Saying About The Lists -----------
In the big picture, you are most certainly saving lives.
The fact that you do it at a very good level of service,
quality, and simplicity is just icing on the cake. We
all owe you a debt of gratitude.
Bruce M
Can't go a single day without reading my lists. Even
when I am overseas.
Terry W
Best list ever. No comparison.
Johann J
I get the digest for the two lists I subscribe to each
morning -- they go great with my coffee! I can't tell
you how much I've learned from this great service...
Mark S
..great lists, best on the Net!
Robert S
It is very nice to enjoy a SPAM free list.
Ken L
You run a great list. Makes a builder feel like there's
lots of help out there for the asking, and it's
appreciated.
Steve T
The list is a very valuable resource.
Thomas S
You run a good list.
James G
Thanks for a great forum.
Jimmy Y
Thanks for a well-maintained list(s).
Michael M
Great job! Worth every penny!
Stephen T
Helps me learn and think about issues I didn't know I
didn't know.
Martin H
I find the list very useful...
Robert F
What you do provides me with daily contact with a passion
of my life, aviation.
Wendell M
..the list it is very valuable information.
Dwayne H
..a great service to homebuilders.
Andrew H
I have learned quite a lot from reading the Forums. I
have been reading at the forum pages and I like the way
it works.
Ron L
[The List] makes a builder feel like there's lots of
help out there for the asking, and it's appreciated.
Steve T
The list service many purposes, not the least of which is
motivation to join my fellow RVer in completing my project
and getting in the air.
John S
Thanks for running a great site. Its simplicity is its
greatness. Don't know how I would have been successful
without it.
Timothy F
..terrific service to experimental and general aviation.
James F
You have a well run operation. I am happy to support what
you do.
Mark S
A wonderful service to the GA community.
David M
Great list - let's keep it ad-free!
Ben C
They have been of great help, learning and friendship
for all the members Worldwide. Great job of yours, a
little idea that grew really big and wonderful.
Gary G
..a thoroughly enjoyable and informative List.
John W
A GREAT LEARNING TOOL!!
Dwayne Y
This is a very well-run list and it is a valuable resource
for the Pietenpol enthusiast.
Graham H
Thanks for running this great site - helps those of
us on the east of the pond keep in touch.
Malcolm H
Thanks for the major contribution to my continuing
education program.
Oldbob S
I'm just getting started in the building process & find
Matronics to be the most valuable site.
Scott D
Without the information and encouragement from the listers
my project would have been sitting in the corner of my shop
collecting dust long ago. Now it's almost ready for final
assemble and covering.
Edward G
Great List. No Ads, just RV-10 builders. Keep it
going.
Rick E
Wonderful source of info for building & flying...
Graham H
The Yak-list is a superb single source to get answers to
questions on the operation of these aircraft.
Craig W
This list is valuable to everyone and your hard work is
very much appreciated.
Jim S
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Deiterich" <cffd(at)pgrb.com> |
I have a Jabiru 2200, serial # 988 with 91 hours.
It is on a Zenith 701 with a Prince P-Tip prop 64X26.
During the last couple of flights I noticed some vibration starting a
couple of minutes after takeoff while still climbing at wide open
throttle (about 3000 rpm). Throttling back to 2800 rpm the vibration
went away. But climbing later in flight at wide open throttle the
vibration returned, the vibration was not bad but noticeable.
On my most recent flight, the vibration started again a couple of
minutes into the flight. Later in flight to climb the vibration got
very bad (rough) and shook the whole airplane. Throttling back it was a
smooth as glass. It seemed that the vibration would now start before
wide open throttle and also carb heat seemed to make it worse. I
throttled back to 2800 rpm and headed for home and landed in about 10
minutes. Engine was smooth.
I periodically check the exhaust pipes for soot. Usually there would be
a little on my finger, but this past flight it was very black and
completely covered the end of my finger.
Any suggestions as to what the problem is and how to fix it?
Thanks,
Chuck D.
N701TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rough Engine |
The blackness might be an indication of high fuel level, caused by a
stuck open or leaky float needle valve/seat. My 2200 exhibited a
roughness at idle and I traced it to a leaky needle valve and/or
seat, and replacing them (with a smaller size, by the way) cured my
problem. It could be that yours likes to leak at WOT instead of like
mine, which was at idle.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/440+ hrs
On Nov 28, 2007, at 12:27 PM, Chuck Deiterich wrote:
> I have a Jabiru 2200, serial # 988 with 91 hours.
> It is on a Zenith 701 with a Prince P-Tip prop 64X26.
>
> During the last couple of flights I noticed some vibration starting
> a couple of minutes after takeoff while still climbing at wide open
> throttle (about 3000 rpm). Throttling back to 2800 rpm the
> vibration went away. But climbing later in flight at wide open
> throttle the vibration returned, the vibration was not bad but
> noticeable.
> On my most recent flight, the vibration started again a couple of
> minutes into the flight. Later in flight to climb the vibration
> got very bad (rough) and shook the whole airplane. Throttling back
> it was a smooth as glass. It seemed that the vibration would now
> start before wide open throttle and also carb heat seemed to make
> it worse. I throttled back to 2800 rpm and headed for home and
> landed in about 10 minutes. Engine was smooth.
>
> I periodically check the exhaust pipes for soot. Usually there
> would be a little on my finger, but this past flight it was very
> black and completely covered the end of my finger.
>
> Any suggestions as to what the problem is and how to fix it?
> Thanks,
> Chuck D.
> N701TX
> ============================================================ _-
> forums.matronics.com_-
> ===========================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dredmoody(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rough Engine |
Seems like you are running too rich at high throttle settings Chuck.
First thing to check would be the float valve. Make sure that when you drop the
bowl off the carb (carefully to prevent spilling any fuel) you should have about
7/16" from the fuel level to the edge of the bowl. Your mid-range jet and
needle may be keeping the mixture corectly until you open up enough to run on
the main jet alone. Could be an adjustment problem or something preventing the
valve from seating fully.
Second, make sure that the balance line from the carb to the airbox is in place
securely at both ends.
Third, check the airfilter and airbox/scat tube/NACA scoop for obstructions.
Finally, make sure that the enrichment circuit (choke) is not being activated as
you open the throttle.
Keep us posted on what you find and how it all shakes out.
Dred
---- Chuck Deiterich wrote:
> I have a Jabiru 2200, serial # 988 with 91 hours.
> It is on a Zenith 701 with a Prince P-Tip prop 64X26.
>
> During the last couple of flights I noticed some vibration starting a couple
of minutes after takeoff while still climbing at wide open throttle (about 3000
rpm). Throttling back to 2800 rpm the vibration went away.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BobbyPaulk(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Rough Engine |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com> |
Chuck,
I had minor to moderate patches of vibration in the J3300 so when we had a
week of bad weather I spent three days static balancing the prop very
carefully with the spinner and backing plate. Next flight when turning left
and decelerating I had major vibration shaking the cowl and reduced throttle
had no immediate effect.
It was scary.
I got a dynamic balance done and we had to add a 1'4" bolt X3/4 long with
washer and nut to the backing plate.
>From the first start it was like a different engine even in the hangar it
was very noticeable.
It is clear to me that the engine itself was out of balance and I have now
compensated for the problem. My prop/spinner assembly is now no way static
balanced. I think the broken flywheel bolts could be due to poorly balanced
engines.
I would recommend a dynamic balance. You need to mark the boss and the prop
and backing plate when the job is done for reassembly.
Peter H
_____
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck
Deiterich
Sent: Thursday, 29 November 2007 3:27 AM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Rough Engine
I have a Jabiru 2200, serial # 988 with 91 hours.
It is on a Zenith 701 with a Prince P-Tip prop 64X26.
During the last couple of flights I noticed some vibration starting a couple
of minutes after takeoff while still climbing at wide open throttle (about
3000 rpm). Throttling back to 2800 rpm the vibration went away. But
climbing later in flight at wide open throttle the vibration returned, the
vibration was not bad but noticeable.
On my most recent flight, the vibration started again a couple of minutes
into the flight. Later in flight to climb the vibration got very bad
(rough) and shook the whole airplane. Throttling back it was a smooth as
glass. It seemed that the vibration would now start before wide open
throttle and also carb heat seemed to make it worse. I throttled back to
2800 rpm and headed for home and landed in about 10 minutes. Engine was
smooth.
I periodically check the exhaust pipes for soot. Usually there would be a
little on my finger, but this past flight it was very black and completely
covered the end of my finger.
Any suggestions as to what the problem is and how to fix it?
Thanks,
Chuck D.
N701TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com> |
I agree with Lynn. I also had a problem caused because the start throttle
lever was not fully returning due to friction in the cable. This caused over
rich running throughout the power range.
Peter
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lynn
Matteson
Sent: Thursday, 29 November 2007 4:04 AM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Rough Engine
The blackness might be an indication of high fuel level, caused by a
stuck open or leaky float needle valve/seat. My 2200 exhibited a
roughness at idle and I traced it to a leaky needle valve and/or
seat, and replacing them (with a smaller size, by the way) cured my
problem. It could be that yours likes to leak at WOT instead of like
mine, which was at idle.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/440+ hrs
On Nov 28, 2007, at 12:27 PM, Chuck Deiterich wrote:
> I have a Jabiru 2200, serial # 988 with 91 hours.
> It is on a Zenith 701 with a Prince P-Tip prop 64X26.
>
> During the last couple of flights I noticed some vibration starting
> a couple of minutes after takeoff while still climbing at wide open
> throttle (about 3000 rpm). Throttling back to 2800 rpm the
> vibration went away. But climbing later in flight at wide open
> throttle the vibration returned, the vibration was not bad but
> noticeable.
> On my most recent flight, the vibration started again a couple of
> minutes into the flight. Later in flight to climb the vibration
> got very bad (rough) and shook the whole airplane. Throttling back
> it was a smooth as glass. It seemed that the vibration would now
> start before wide open throttle and also carb heat seemed to make
> it worse. I throttled back to 2800 rpm and headed for home and
> landed in about 10 minutes. Engine was smooth.
>
> I periodically check the exhaust pipes for soot. Usually there
> would be a little on my finger, but this past flight it was very
> black and completely covered the end of my finger.
>
> Any suggestions as to what the problem is and how to fix it?
> Thanks,
> Chuck D.
> N701TX
> ============================================================ _-
> forums.matronics.com_-
> ===========================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Stripped Thread Question? |
| From: | "Jeffrey J Paris" <jeffrey-j-paris(at)excite.com> |
Thanks Ralph!
JJP
--- On Wed 11/28, jetboy < sanson.r(at)xtra.co.nz > wrote:
From: jetboy [mailto: sanson.r(at)xtra.co.nz]
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 23:46:58 -0800
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Re: Stripped Thread Question?
_______________________________________________
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Just Two Days Left... |
Dear Listers,
There are just a couple days left for this year's List Fund Raiser. Over all,
participation has been good, but things have been pretty slow this week for some
reason. If you've been putting off making your Contribution until the last
minute, this is it! The last minute, that is... :-)
Please remember that there isn't any sort of commercial advertising on the Lists
and the *only* means of keeping these Lists running is through your Contributions
during this Fund Raiser.
Please make a Contribution today!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pat ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
Hi,#
I have a Jab 2200 on my Kolb Mk 3 extra. For various reasons ir onlt has
about 13 hours in 18 months and I have now found that although there
have been no previous symptoms the starter motor has seized almost
solid.
There is no smell or indication of electrical failure.
Any comments or similar experiences?
Pat Ladd
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rough Engine |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Chuck, you have a firing issue. If it was me the first thing I would do is chage
plugs. They may be failing for one reason of another. I had somewhat of a similiar
problem with my 3300 but the solution was a divider in the intake . I would
also check the ends of the plugs, and the distributor cap for tightness.
Lastly, you may have a problem in the carb for too rich. See Jab manual for help.
Best of luck, Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Chuck Deiterich <cffd(at)pgrb.com>
Sent: Wed, 28 Nov 2007 12:27 pm
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Rough Engine
I have a Jabiru 2200, serial # 988 with 91 hours.
It is on a Zenith 701 with a Prince P-Tip prop 64X26.
?
During the last couple of flights I noticed some vibration starting a couple of
minutes after takeoff while still climbing at wide open throttle (about 3000
rpm).? Throttling back to 2800 rpm the vibration went away.? But climbing later
in flight at wide open throttle the vibration returned, the vibration was not
bad but noticeable.?
On my most recent flight, the vibration started again a couple of minutes into
the flight.? Later in flight to climb the vibration got very bad (rough) and shook
the whole airplane.? Throttling back it was a smooth as glass.? It seemed
that the vibration would now start before wide open throttle and also carb heat
seemed to make it worse.? I throttled back to 2800 rpm and headed for home
and landed in about 10 minutes.? Engine was smooth.
?
I periodically check the exhaust pipes for soot.? Usually there would be?a little?on
my finger, but this past flight it was very black and completely covered
the end of my finger.
?
Any suggestions as to what the problem is and how to fix it?
Thanks,
Chuck D.
N701TX
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Deiterich" <cffd(at)pgrb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rough Engine |
Thanks for all of the replies, I now have places to look and will let
you know what I find. I do not have any EGT's but will probably get
them.
Chuck D.
N701TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | xl <xl(at)prosody.org> |
The rear bearing came out in my starter.
That causes the starter to lock up.
I was far away from home base. I managed to reseat it
and get back home. The starter was replaced under warrantee.
I did try to using locktight (sp) but the bearing fell out again.
The starter clutch failed later. I had to buy that.
Joe E
N633Z @ KBFI
495 hours
Jabiru 3300
On Thu, 29 Nov 2007, pat ladd wrote:
> Hi,#
> I have a Jab 2200 on my Kolb Mk 3 extra. For various reasons ir onlt
> has about 13 hours in 18 months and I have now found that although there
> have been no previous symptoms the starter motor has seized almost
> solid.
> There is no smell or indication of electrical failure.
>
> Any comments or similar experiences?
>
> Pat Ladd
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [Please Read] - Last Official Day of List Fund Raiser! |
Dear Listers,
Its November 30th and that means a couple of things. Its my 44th birthday for
one, but I'm trying to forget about that... But, it also means that its that
last official day of the Matronics Email List Fund Raiser!
If you been drooling over one of the really sweet free gifts that are available
this year with a qualifying Contribution, then now is the time to jump on one!!
If you've been meaning to make a Contribution, but just keep putting it off, then
now is the time!
I will be posting the List of Contributors in a few days, so you'll probably want
to be known as a person that supported the Lists! Rather than the guy that,
er, ah, forgot (or whatever)... :-)
I want to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution so far this
year in support of our Lists. It is your generosity that keeps this operation
a float and I don't ever forget it. Hopefully everyone will feel the same.
The List Contribution page is fast and easy. Please support our habit by making
your Contribution right now:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you all in advance!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pat ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
The rear bearing came out in my starter.>>
Thank you
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jabiru USA" <info(at)usjabiru.com> |
| Subject: | Jabiru Engine Seminar |
Hello All,
Jabiru USA Sport Aircraft has scheduled another "Jabiru Engine Repair &
Maintenance Seminar" for February 1st through February 3rd , 2008. The
seminar will again be held at our Shelbyville headquarters. Class is
limited to 10 enrollees. Topics covered will be routine maintenance,
installation issues, and engine repair through the top overhaul. It will be
a "hands on" seminar working with a Jabiru 3300 which will be taken apart
and rebuilt in the top overhaul procedure.
Please see details and registration form on www.usjabiru.com .
Pete Krotje
Jabiru USA Sport Aircraft, LLC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cy" <cygan(at)optusnet.com.au> |
G'Day Folks,
I had a rough engine problem too.
When checking EVERYTHING I found that the "door" that switched from normal
intake air to heated air for carb heat was rotating on the shaft.
I disassembled it and put in a roll pin (a very tight fitting one) and used
a bit of lock tight to be sure it stayed there.
Cheers from Australia.
Cy
Series V - Jabiru 3300
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Jabiru Engine Seminar |
> Hello All,
>
> Jabiru USA Sport Aircraft has scheduled another "Jabiru Engine Repair &
> Maintenance Seminar" for February 1st through February 3rd , 2008.
Pete,
Any chances to get top end pictures ?
http://contrails.free.fr/engine_jab_inside_en.php
Thanks,
Best regards,
--
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Jabiru Engine Seminar |
Gilles Thesee a crit :
> http://contrails.free.fr/engine_jab_inside_en.php
Oops, that was intended to be a private mail.
My apologies to Pete and the list.
Best regards,
--
Gilles
http://contrails.free.fr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Grant Piper" <grant.piper(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rough Engine |
G'day Cy,
Good to hear you are aviating at last! I'll have to come and have sticky
sometime.
Hope you and Patricia are well.
Regards,
Grant Piper
63774556
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Matronics List Fund Raiser - 2007 List of Contributors |
Dear Listers,
I would like to thank everyone that made a Contribution in support of the Lists
this year! It was really nice to hear all great comments people had regarding
the Lists! As I have said many times before, running these Lists is a labor
of love. Your generosity during the List Fund Raiser underscores the great sentiments
people have made regarding the Lists.
If you haven't yet made a Contribution in support of this year's Fund Raiser please
feel free to do so. The great List Fund Raiser gifts will be available on
the Contribution site for just a little while longer, so hurry and make your
Contribution and get your great gift! Once again, the URL for the Contribution
web site is:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
I would like to thank Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore ( http://www.buildersbooks.com ), Jon Croke of Homebuilt HELP ( http://www.homebuilthelp.com ) and Bob Nuckolls of AeroElectric ( http://www.aeroelectric.com ) for their extremely generous support during this year's Fund Raiser through the contribution of discounted merchandise. These are great guys that support the aviation industry and I encourage each and every Lister to have a look at their products. Thank you Andy, Jon and Bob!! Your support is very much appreciated!
And finally, below you will find a web link to the 2007 List of Contributors current
as of 12/6/07! Have a look at this list of names as these are the people
that make all of these List services possible! I can't thank each of you enough
for your support and great feedback during this year's Fund Raiser!
THANK YOU!
http://www.matronics.com/loc/2007.html
I will be shipping out all of the gifts in the next few weeks and hope to have
everything out by the end of the month. In most cases, gifts will be shipped
via US Postal Service.
Once again, thank you for making this year's List Fund Raiser successful!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Warren" <p.pwarren(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 11/29/07 |
Please, I wish to be taken off your mailing list.
Thanks
Peter Warren
----- Original Message -----
From: "JabiruEngine-List Digest Server" <jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 8:57 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 11/29/07
> *
>
> =================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> =================================================
>
> Today's complete JabiruEngine-List Digest can also be found in either of
> the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
> of the JabiruEngine-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text
> editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 07-11-29&Archive=JabiruEngine
>
> Text Version:
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 07-11-29&Archive=JabiruEngine
>
>
> ===============================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ===============================================
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> JabiruEngine-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Thu 11/29/07: 5
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 0. 12:22 AM - Just Two Days Left... (Matt Dralle)
> 1. 04:22 AM - starter (pat ladd)
> 2. 08:34 AM - Re: Rough Engine (japhillipsga(at)aol.com)
> 3. 10:03 PM - Re: Rough Engine (Chuck Deiterich)
> 4. 10:29 PM - Re: starter (xl)
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 0
> _____________________________________
>
>
> From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Just Two Days Left...
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> There are just a couple days left for this year's List Fund Raiser. Over
> all,
> participation has been good, but things have been pretty slow this week
> for some
> reason. If you've been putting off making your Contribution until the
> last
> minute, this is it! The last minute, that is... :-)
>
> Please remember that there isn't any sort of commercial advertising on the
> Lists
> and the *only* means of keeping these Lists running is through your
> Contributions
> during this Fund Raiser.
>
> Please make a Contribution today!
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> Thank you!
>
> Matt Dralle
> Matronics Email List Administrator
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
> _____________________________________
>
>
> From: "pat ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com>
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: starter
>
> Hi,#
> I have a Jab 2200 on my Kolb Mk 3 extra. For various reasons ir onlt has
> about 13 hours in 18 months and I have now found that although there
> have been no previous symptoms the starter motor has seized almost
> solid.
> There is no smell or indication of electrical failure.
>
> Any comments or similar experiences?
>
> Pat Ladd
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Rough Engine
> From: japhillipsga(at)aol.com
>
> Chuck, you have a firing issue. If it was me the first thing I would do is
> chage
> plugs. They may be failing for one reason of another. I had somewhat of a
> similiar
> problem with my 3300 but the solution was a divider in the intake . I
> would
> also check the ends of the plugs, and the distributor cap for tightness.
> Lastly, you may have a problem in the carb for too rich. See Jab manual
> for help.
> Best of luck, Bill
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chuck Deiterich <cffd(at)pgrb.com>
> Sent: Wed, 28 Nov 2007 12:27 pm
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Rough Engine
>
>
> I have a Jabiru 2200, serial # 988 with 91 hours.
> It is on a Zenith 701 with a Prince P-Tip prop 64X26.
>
> ?
>
> During the last couple of flights I noticed some vibration starting a
> couple of
> minutes after takeoff while still climbing at wide open throttle (about
> 3000
> rpm).? Throttling back to 2800 rpm the vibration went away.? But climbing
> later
> in flight at wide open throttle the vibration returned, the vibration was
> not
> bad but noticeable.?
> On my most recent flight, the vibration started again a couple of minutes
> into
> the flight.? Later in flight to climb the vibration got very bad (rough)
> and shook
> the whole airplane.? Throttling back it was a smooth as glass.? It seemed
> that the vibration would now start before wide open throttle and also carb
> heat
> seemed to make it worse.? I throttled back to 2800 rpm and headed for home
> and landed in about 10 minutes.? Engine was smooth.
>
> ?
>
> I periodically check the exhaust pipes for soot.? Usually there would be?a
> little?on
> my finger, but this past flight it was very black and completely covered
> the end of my finger.
>
> ?
>
> Any suggestions as to what the problem is and how to fix it?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chuck D.
>
> N701TX
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> ________________________________ Message 3
> _____________________________________
>
>
> From: "Chuck Deiterich" <cffd(at)pgrb.com>
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Re: Rough Engine
>
> Thanks for all of the replies, I now have places to look and will let
> you know what I find. I do not have any EGT's but will probably get
> them.
> Chuck D.
> N701TX
>
> ________________________________ Message 4
> _____________________________________
>
>
> From: xl <xl(at)prosody.org>
> Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: starter
>
>
> The rear bearing came out in my starter.
> That causes the starter to lock up.
> I was far away from home base. I managed to reseat it
> and get back home. The starter was replaced under warrantee.
> I did try to using locktight (sp) but the bearing fell out again.
>
> The starter clutch failed later. I had to buy that.
>
> Joe E
> N633Z @ KBFI
> 495 hours
> Jabiru 3300
>
>
> On Thu, 29 Nov 2007, pat ladd wrote:
>> Hi,#
>> I have a Jab 2200 on my Kolb Mk 3 extra. For various reasons ir onlt
>> has about 13 hours in 18 months and I have now found that although there
>> have been no previous symptoms the starter motor has seized almost
>> solid.
>> There is no smell or indication of electrical failure.
>>
>> Any comments or similar experiences?
>>
>> Pat Ladd
>>
>
>
> --
> 12/1/2007 12:05 p.m.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Snyder" <kmitch51(at)earthlink.net> |
Any other engines. I was looking at comparative numbers (weight, size, horsepower)
and the 3300 looks similar in size and weight to the 912 Rotax when adding
in radiator and psru and to the O-200 Continental. And obviously has a slight
but hopefully real horsepower advantage.
Has anyone had the chance to do direct comparison not just from the technical papers
put out by the manufacturers? In other words has anyone had a hands-on look
at them side by side?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=150939#150939
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Sundquist" <sttwig(at)wabroadband.com> |
I ran across this product on line:
http://www.homebuilthelp.com/The912Competition.htm
I don't know if it will help sort out your question.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Keith
Snyder
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2007 8:32 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Jabiru vs.
Any other engines. I was looking at comparative numbers (weight, size,
horsepower) and the 3300 looks similar in size and weight to the 912 Rotax
when adding in radiator and psru and to the O-200 Continental. And obviously
has a slight but hopefully real horsepower advantage.
Has anyone had the chance to do direct comparison not just from the
technical papers put out by the manufacturers? In other words has anyone had
a hands-on look at them side by side?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=150939#150939
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Payne" <craig(at)craigandjean.com> |
I don't think the Continental weighs the same as a Jabiru 3300. Even if you
look at Continental's own specs it weights more. I've weighed my 3300 and it
is within a pound of the spec sheet. If you think the Continental weighs the
same try comparing empty weights for an AMD 601XL to a kit built 601XL with
a 3300.
-- Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Keith
Snyder
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2007 9:32 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Jabiru vs.
Any other engines. I was looking at comparative numbers (weight, size,
horsepower) and the 3300 looks similar in size and weight to the 912 Rotax
when adding in radiator and psru and to the O-200 Continental. And obviously
has a slight but hopefully real horsepower advantage.
Has anyone had the chance to do direct comparison not just from the
technical papers put out by the manufacturers? In other words has anyone had
a hands-on look at them side by side?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=150939#150939
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Snyder" <kmitch51(at)earthlink.net> |
Per the spec sheets it's 8 pounds difference in favor of the Jabiru.
If they are like the motorcycle manufacturers there could be a fair amount of difference
between what they tell you and reality.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=150966#150966
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Morrisey <donmorrisey(at)hotmail.com> |
I think you would find that the O-200 is at least 50 pounds heavier, if not
more.www.donsbushcaddy.comDon Morrisey's Skunkworks
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Jabiru vs.> From: kmitch51(at)earthlink.net> Dat
net>> > Any other engines. I was looking at comparative numbers (weight, si
ze, horsepower) and the 3300 looks similar in size and weight to the 912 Ro
tax when adding in radiator and psru and to the O-200 Continental. And obvi
ously has a slight but hopefully real horsepower advantage. > Has anyone ha
d the chance to do direct comparison not just from the technical papers put
out by the manufacturers? In other words has anyone had a hands-on look at
them side by side?> > > > > Read this topic online here:> > http://forums.
========================> _
=> > >
_________________________________________________________________
Your smile counts. The more smiles you share, the more we donate.- Join i
n.
www.windowslive.com/smile?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_Wave2_oprsmilewlhmtagline
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 11/29/07 |
| From: | "sonex293" <sonex293(at)gmail.com> |
Peter,
Try going here ....
http://www.matronics.com/subscription
--
Michael
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=150980#150980
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Shannon <rshannon(at)cruzcom.com> |
I'm not sure about 50 lbs., but the O-200 is substantially heavier. When
comparing engine weights, make sure you're comparing apples to apples.
Jabiru's published weight (~172 lbs.) includes starter, generator,
exhaust, cooling baffles. The O-200's published weight (see
http://tinyurl.com/3bbeht) is just for the "basic engine".
Ron
Murphy Rebel 254R
http://n254mr.com
Don Morrisey wrote:
> I think you would find that the O-200 is at least 50 pounds heavier, if
> not more.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Hughes" <hawk(at)compuplus.net> |
I would agree with that 50 lb difference. I just purchased a new TMX 0-200
and even with the lighter starter and new type alternator, the installed
weight is between 220 and 235 lbs without vacuum pump.
Hawkeye Hughes
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Shannon" <rshannon(at)cruzcom.com>
Sent: Friday, December 07, 2007 11:38
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Jabiru vs.
>
>
> I'm not sure about 50 lbs., but the O-200 is substantially heavier. When
> comparing engine weights, make sure you're comparing apples to apples.
> Jabiru's published weight (~172 lbs.) includes starter, generator,
> exhaust, cooling baffles. The O-200's published weight (see
> http://tinyurl.com/3bbeht) is just for the "basic engine".
>
> Ron
> Murphy Rebel 254R
> http://n254mr.com
>
> Don Morrisey wrote:
>> I think you would find that the O-200 is at least 50 pounds heavier, if
>> not more.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com> |
The J3300 82Kg is same weight as the Revmaster but 120 HP (rating)
Peter
_____
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don
Morrisey
Sent: Friday, 7 December 2007 11:48 PM
Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: Jabiru vs.
I think you would find that the O-200 is at least 50 pounds heavier, if not
more.
www.donsbushcaddy.com <http://www.donsbushcaddy.com/>
Don Morrisey's Skunkworks
_____
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Jabiru vs.
> From: kmitch51(at)earthlink.net
> Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2007 20:32:05 -0800
> To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Any other engines. I was looking at comparative numbers (weight, size,
horsepower) and the 3300 looks similar in size and weight to the 912 Rotax
when adding in radiator and psru and to the O-200 Continental. And obviously
has a slight but hopefully real horsepower advantage.
> Has anyone had the chance to do direct comparison not just from the
technical papers put out by the manufacturers? In other words has anyone had
a hands-on look at them side by side?
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=150939#150939
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ======================
&g==
>
>
>
_____
Your smile counts. The more smiles you share, the more we donate. Join in!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Ronco" <joe(at)halzel.com> |
The Continental literature that I got at Oshkosh 2007 for the new O-200D
(Light Sport version that Cessna is using for the 162) shows an installed
dry weight with accessories of 215 lbs + 6 quarts of oil = approx 225-230
lbs.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron
Shannon
Sent: Friday, December 07, 2007 11:39 AM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Jabiru vs.
I'm not sure about 50 lbs., but the O-200 is substantially heavier. When
comparing engine weights, make sure you're comparing apples to apples.
Jabiru's published weight (~172 lbs.) includes starter, generator,
exhaust, cooling baffles. The O-200's published weight (see
http://tinyurl.com/3bbeht) is just for the "basic engine".
Ron
Murphy Rebel 254R
http://n254mr.com
Don Morrisey wrote:
> I think you would find that the O-200 is at least 50 pounds heavier, if
> not more.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Morrisey <donmorrisey(at)hotmail.com> |
That is correct. With everything attached to an O-200 (including oil) it w
ill be in the range of 235 pounds. An O 235 will be in the range of 275 po
unds. My original choice for my aircraft was the O 235. A load of researc
h later, I also decided the O 200 was also too heavy and went with the Jabi
ru 3300. The published weights of the O 200 and O 235 are very misleading.
You need to go back to their type certificates to get the real numbers pl
us the add ons. Luckily for me, Mahlon Russell, who is a great resource on
the Lycoming Yahoo list is also the Service Manager at Mattituck. He actu
ally weighed two engines from their test cell for me. www.donsbushcaddy.com
Don Morrisey's Skunkworks
> Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2007 10:38:45 -0800> From: rshannon(at)cruzcom.com> To: jab
iruengine-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Jabiru vs.> >
>> > I'm not sure about 50 lbs., but the O-200 is substantially heavier. Wh
en > comparing engine weights, make sure you're comparing apples to apples.
> Jabiru's published weight (~172 lbs.) includes starter, generator, > exh
aust, cooling baffles. The O-200's published weight (see > http://tinyurl.c
om/3bbeht) is just for the "basic engine".> > Ron> Murphy Rebel 254R> http:
//n254mr.com> > Don Morrisey wrote:> > I think you would find that the O-20
========================> >
>
_________________________________________________________________
Connect and share in new ways with Windows Live.
http://www.windowslive.com/connect.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_Wave2_newways_1120
07
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bobby Paulk" <bobbypaulk(at)comcast.net> |
All,
I have a Jab 3300 that has never run right since new. It was flooding at
idle and blowing soot out the exhaust. I had to clean the plugs several
times in 25 hrs. I decided to run a bench test on the needle and seat. I
filled a Tupperware type clear bowl with fuel and sat it on the bench. I
removed the Carb from the A/C and removed the Bale from the float chamber on
the bottom of the Carb. I connected the fuel line to a regulated air supply
of 5 psi with a calibrated 0 - 5 psi gauge only inches from the carb fuel
inlet. I sat the carb in the bowl of fuel so that the top of the fuel would
be even with the split where the bale was removed. I got a friend to
increase the pressure slowly while looking for and listening for bubbles.
The carb started passing gas (pun intended ) at 1.5 psi. I repeated the
experimented with this by raising and lowering the carb out of the fuel and
back in. the results were that the needle was not seating at a very low
pressure.
I decided to polish the needle seat with a rounded wooden dowel and fine
valve grinding compound. With light finger pressure I began turning the
dowel and discovered a burr on the seat caused by the drill bit or tool used
to drill the hole. I used a larger drill bit with very light finger pressure
and turned it on the seat. I saw shiny metal around about 40% of the seat
where the burr had been removed. I finished polishing the seat and the
needle would hold bubble tight to over 4.5 psi.
If you are having problems with the engine running very rich at idle you may
want to see if the needle valve seat is smooth.
Bobby Paulk
Zodiac 601 XL
N131BP
55 Plus hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 601 XL overheating |
| From: | "Don McIntosh" <don(at)contractorsnorthwest.com> |
This is a reply to Don, on his suggestion on 9/20/07 to go to the Jabiru engine
Yahoo Group and look up Fisher Dakotahawk. As I just received my 3300 today (Yayyy!)
for my Kitfox, I am interested in seeing the "Continental Style" ducting,
but I was not successful in the search mentioned. Do you know the date of
the post or possibly more info?
Thanks,
--------
Don McIntosh
Series 7 under construction
Jabiru 3300
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=151560#151560
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | any used 3300 for sale? |
| From: | "Iberplanes" <iberplanes(at)gmail.com> |
hi list,
Im looking for a 3300 used, in good conditions. Anybody knows Where can I find
one?
thanks in advance,
--------
Alberto Martin
601 XL - Jabiru 3300
www.iberplanes.es
Igualada - Barcelona - Spain
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=151697#151697
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steve" <notsew_evets(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: any used 3300 for sale? |
I have a new 3300 and at one time considered a used , low time engine. I
discovered "things" about used that convinced me to purchase new.
Call Jim at Jabiru Pacific and tell him Steve Weston sent you his way. Not
promising a discount but you might be suprised.....
Do it soon or prices will knock your socks off.
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Iberplanes" <iberplanes(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 11:47 AM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: any used 3300 for sale?
>
>
> hi list,
>
> Im looking for a 3300 used, in good conditions. Anybody knows Where can
> I find one?
>
> thanks in advance,
>
> --------
> Alberto Martin
> 601 XL - Jabiru 3300
> www.iberplanes.es
> Igualada - Barcelona - Spain
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=151697#151697
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Iberplanes IGL" <iberplanes(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: any used 3300 for sale? |
Thanks Steve, Ill give him a call and let you know.
Take care,
Alberto Martin
601 XL - Jabiru 3300
www.iberplanes.es
Igualada - Barcelona - Spain
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve" <notsew_evets(at)frontiernet.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 10:38 PM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: any used 3300 for sale?
>
>
> I have a new 3300 and at one time considered a used , low time engine. I
> discovered "things" about used that convinced me to purchase new.
> Call Jim at Jabiru Pacific and tell him Steve Weston sent you his way.
> Not promising a discount but you might be suprised.....
> Do it soon or prices will knock your socks off.
> Steve
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Iberplanes" <iberplanes(at)gmail.com>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 11:47 AM
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: any used 3300 for sale?
>
>
>>
>>
>> hi list,
>>
>> Im looking for a 3300 used, in good conditions. Anybody knows Where
>> can I find one?
>>
>> thanks in advance,
>>
>> --------
>> Alberto Martin
>> 601 XL - Jabiru 3300
>> www.iberplanes.es
>> Igualada - Barcelona - Spain
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=151697#151697
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <bobmoref(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 12/11/07 |
Please stop sending this list as I am no longer interested in a Jabiru
Thanks
--
Bob Morefield
Cell 602 510 7002
---- JabiruEngine-List Digest Server wrote:
> *
>
> =================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> =================================================
>
> Today's complete JabiruEngine-List Digest can also be found in either of the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
> of the JabiruEngine-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 07-12-11&Archive=JabiruEngine
>
> Text Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 07-12-11&Archive=JabiruEngine
>
>
> ===============================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ===============================================
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> JabiruEngine-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Tue 12/11/07: 3
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 10:48 AM - any used 3300 for sale? (Iberplanes)
> 2. 01:40 PM - Re: any used 3300 for sale? (steve)
> 3. 02:37 PM - Re: any used 3300 for sale? (Iberplanes IGL)
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: any used 3300 for sale?
> From: "Iberplanes" <iberplanes(at)gmail.com>
>
>
> hi list,
>
> Im looking for a 3300 used, in good conditions. Anybody knows Where can I find
> one?
>
> thanks in advance,
>
> --------
> Alberto Martin
> 601 XL - Jabiru 3300
> www.iberplanes.es
> Igualada - Barcelona - Spain
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=151697#151697
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________
>
>
> From: "steve" <notsew_evets(at)frontiernet.net>
> Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: any used 3300 for sale?
>
>
> I have a new 3300 and at one time considered a used , low time engine. I
> discovered "things" about used that convinced me to purchase new.
> Call Jim at Jabiru Pacific and tell him Steve Weston sent you his way. Not
> promising a discount but you might be suprised.....
> Do it soon or prices will knock your socks off.
> Steve
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Iberplanes" <iberplanes(at)gmail.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 11:47 AM
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: any used 3300 for sale?
>
>
> >
> >
> > hi list,
> >
> > Im looking for a 3300 used, in good conditions. Anybody knows Where can
> > I find one?
> >
> > thanks in advance,
> >
> > --------
> > Alberto Martin
> > 601 XL - Jabiru 3300
> > www.iberplanes.es
> > Igualada - Barcelona - Spain
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=151697#151697
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________
>
>
> From: "Iberplanes IGL" <iberplanes(at)gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: any used 3300 for sale?
>
>
> Thanks Steve, Ill give him a call and let you know.
>
> Take care,
>
> Alberto Martin
> 601 XL - Jabiru 3300
> www.iberplanes.es
> Igualada - Barcelona - Spain
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "steve" <notsew_evets(at)frontiernet.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 10:38 PM
> Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: any used 3300 for sale?
>
>
> >
> >
> > I have a new 3300 and at one time considered a used , low time engine. I
> > discovered "things" about used that convinced me to purchase new.
> > Call Jim at Jabiru Pacific and tell him Steve Weston sent you his way.
> > Not promising a discount but you might be suprised.....
> > Do it soon or prices will knock your socks off.
> > Steve
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Iberplanes" <iberplanes(at)gmail.com>
> > To:
> > Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 11:47 AM
> > Subject: JabiruEngine-List: any used 3300 for sale?
> >
> >
> >>
> >>
> >> hi list,
> >>
> >> Im looking for a 3300 used, in good conditions. Anybody knows Where
> >> can I find one?
> >>
> >> thanks in advance,
> >>
> >> --------
> >> Alberto Martin
> >> 601 XL - Jabiru 3300
> >> www.iberplanes.es
> >> Igualada - Barcelona - Spain
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Read this topic online here:
> >>
> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=151697#151697
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jabiru USA" <info(at)usjabiru.com> |
| Subject: | Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 12/11/07 |
Bob,
Go to this link: http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List and
follow the steps to unsubscribe.
Pete Krotje
Jabiru USA Sport Aircraft, LLC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
bobmoref(at)cox.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2007 9:34 AM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 12/11/07
Please stop sending this list as I am no longer interested in a Jabiru
Thanks
--
Bob Morefield
Cell 602 510 7002
---- JabiruEngine-List Digest Server
wrote:
> *
>
> =================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> =================================================
>
> Today's complete JabiruEngine-List Digest can also be found in either of
the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
> of the JabiruEngine-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text
editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter
07-12-11&Archive=JabiruEngine
>
> Text Version:
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter
2007-12-11&Archive=JabiruEngine
>
>
> ===============================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ===============================================
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> JabiruEngine-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Tue 12/11/07: 3
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 10:48 AM - any used 3300 for sale? (Iberplanes)
> 2. 01:40 PM - Re: any used 3300 for sale? (steve)
> 3. 02:37 PM - Re: any used 3300 for sale? (Iberplanes IGL)
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: any used 3300 for sale?
> From: "Iberplanes" <iberplanes(at)gmail.com>
>
>
> hi list,
>
> Im looking for a 3300 used, in good conditions. Anybody knows Where can I
find
> one?
>
> thanks in advance,
>
> --------
> Alberto Martin
> 601 XL - Jabiru 3300
> www.iberplanes.es
> Igualada - Barcelona - Spain
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=151697#151697
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: "steve" <notsew_evets(at)frontiernet.net>
> Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: any used 3300 for sale?
>
>
> I have a new 3300 and at one time considered a used , low time engine. I
> discovered "things" about used that convinced me to purchase new.
> Call Jim at Jabiru Pacific and tell him Steve Weston sent you his way.
Not
> promising a discount but you might be suprised.....
> Do it soon or prices will knock your socks off.
> Steve
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Iberplanes" <iberplanes(at)gmail.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 11:47 AM
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: any used 3300 for sale?
>
>
> >
> >
> > hi list,
> >
> > Im looking for a 3300 used, in good conditions. Anybody knows Where can
> > I find one?
> >
> > thanks in advance,
> >
> > --------
> > Alberto Martin
> > 601 XL - Jabiru 3300
> > www.iberplanes.es
> > Igualada - Barcelona - Spain
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=151697#151697
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 3
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: "Iberplanes IGL" <iberplanes(at)gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: any used 3300 for sale?
>
>
> Thanks Steve, Ill give him a call and let you know.
>
> Take care,
>
> Alberto Martin
> 601 XL - Jabiru 3300
> www.iberplanes.es
> Igualada - Barcelona - Spain
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "steve" <notsew_evets(at)frontiernet.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 10:38 PM
> Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: any used 3300 for sale?
>
>
> >
> >
> > I have a new 3300 and at one time considered a used , low time engine.
I
> > discovered "things" about used that convinced me to purchase new.
> > Call Jim at Jabiru Pacific and tell him Steve Weston sent you his way.
> > Not promising a discount but you might be suprised.....
> > Do it soon or prices will knock your socks off.
> > Steve
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Iberplanes" <iberplanes(at)gmail.com>
> > To:
> > Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 11:47 AM
> > Subject: JabiruEngine-List: any used 3300 for sale?
> >
> >
> >>
> >>
> >> hi list,
> >>
> >> Im looking for a 3300 used, in good conditions. Anybody knows Where
> >> can I find one?
> >>
> >> thanks in advance,
> >>
> >> --------
> >> Alberto Martin
> >> 601 XL - Jabiru 3300
> >> www.iberplanes.es
> >> Igualada - Barcelona - Spain
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Read this topic online here:
> >>
> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=151697#151697
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jon Croke" <Jon(at)joncroke.com> |
| Subject: | Jabiru +Zentith 601XL enthusiasts only |
HomebuiltHELP is proud to announce the release of the NEW version of the
popular Jabiru engine installation video. Recently, we were invited to
film the workshop where a 3300 engine was installed on a customer's
601XL airframe at Jabiru USA. This film differs from our original
release on this topic in that it is more detailed in its content (5
hour, 2 DVD set!) and demonstrates installation using the new engine
cowling and oil cooler found in the new FWF kit. This video makes an
excellent supplement to the Jabiru FWF installation instructions due to
the level of detail and demonstrations provided by the Jabiru
installation team at the workshop.
For those that have already purchased the original Jabiru engine Semiar
video from HomebuiltHELP, we are offering a full cash refund for that
purchase if you decide to go with this new version! (see website)
Details can be found at the website:
http://www.homebuilthelp.com/JabiruSeminar.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Shoup" <zenith601xl(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jabiru +Zentith 601XL enthusiasts only |
Jon,
Thanks for the copy of the video. I will reccommend your products to
everyone I can, they're Grrrrreat!
Dennis Shoup
On Dec 12, 2007 2:20 PM, Jon Croke wrote:
> HomebuiltHELP is proud to announce the release of the NEW version of the
> popular Jabiru engine installation video. Recently, we were invited to film
> the workshop where a 3300 engine was installed on a customer's 601XL
> airframe at Jabiru USA. This film differs from our original release on this
> topic in that it is more detailed in its content (5 hour, 2 DVD set!) and
> demonstrates installation using the new engine cowling and oil cooler found
> in the new FWF kit. This video makes an excellent supplement to the Jabiru
> FWF installation instructions due to the level of detail and demonstrations
> provided by the Jabiru installation team at the workshop.
>
> For those that have already purchased the original Jabiru engine Semiar
> video from HomebuiltHELP, we are offering a full cash refund for that
> purchase if you decide to go with this new version! (see website)
>
> Details can be found at the website:
>
> http://www.homebuilthelp.com/JabiruSeminar.htm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Deiterich" <cffd(at)pgrb.com> |
Remember I complained about my 2200 running rough at WOT with much soot
in exhaust pipes. On the ground I opened the wing tank valve (no pumps
at all) and gas poured out of the carb. (I am going to replace the float
needle with the one that has a stronger spring built in. The orange
tipped needle spring takes about 2 oz to depress it about 1 mm, the
stronger black tipped needle takes about 30 oz to depress it 1 mm.) With
the carb bowl off, it takes very, very little pressure on the old needle
to stop the flow.
I got to thinking maybe the float has taken on fluid. I weighed it at
the post office and it measured to be 0.4 oz. Bing factory says my white
float should weigh 10 grams or about 0.35 oz. (The scale only showed
tenths of oz.) So I suspended the float in a bowl of gas with a wire
through the hinges. With the float level, only 6 mm of the float was out
of the gasoline. This appears to me that the fuel in the bowl must be
this high before the float can apply pressure to the needle. The fuel is
supposed to be =BD in below the bowl lip when not on the carb, it will
be a bit higher when the float is in it, but not that much higher. I am
going to let the float "dry" out and check it in gas again. More later.
Chuck D.
N701TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rough Engine |
My white float weighs 191 grains, (using a balance scale) converted
to .437 ounces, or 12.38 grams, just for comparison,
I've found that there are at least two different black-tipped
needles....I have one that has a black spring plunger and it is
strong, and one that has a silver spring plunger, and it is
considered by Bing to be "medium" strong. At least that's what the
invoice said for the silver one. It was shipped to be the companion
for the 1.5mm seat.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/440+ hrs
On Dec 18, 2007, at 10:31 AM, Chuck Deiterich wrote:
> Remember I complained about my 2200 running rough at WOT with much
> soot
> in exhaust pipes. On the ground I opened the wing tank valve (no pumps
> at all) and gas poured out of the carb. (I am going to replace the
> float
> needle with the one that has a stronger spring built in. The orange
> tipped needle spring takes about 2 oz to depress it about 1 mm, the
> stronger black tipped needle takes about 30 oz to depress it 1 mm.)
> With
> the carb bowl off, it takes very, very little pressure on the old
> needle
> to stop the flow.
>
> I got to thinking maybe the float has taken on fluid. I weighed it at
> the post office and it measured to be 0.4 oz. Bing factory says my
> white
> float should weigh 10 grams or about 0.35 oz. (The scale only showed
> tenths of oz.) So I suspended the float in a bowl of gas with a wire
> through the hinges. With the float level, only 6 mm of the float
> was out
> of the gasoline. This appears to me that the fuel in the bowl must be
> this high before the float can apply pressure to the needle. The
> fuel is
> supposed to be =BD in below the bowl lip when not on the carb, it will
> be a bit higher when the float is in it, but not that much higher.
> I am
> going to let the float "dry" out and check it in gas again. More
> later.
>
> Chuck D.
> N701TX
>
> ============================================================ _-
> forums.matronics.com_-
> ===========================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Smith <ibagolfer2001(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Jabiru 3300 Smoothness |
I have flown behind a Rotax in the pre-production model of the Liberty XL. I found
the engine to be very buzzy. For those of you who are flying the Jabiru
3300, how is the smoothness of operation for the flat six?
Thanks,
David Smith
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Haas" <checkpoint2(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Jabiru 3300 Smoothness |
David! After you have flown in a Jabiru 3000 powered aircraft, You
will
Throw ROCKS at any Rotax machine. While you are about it check out the
parts replacements prices and don't forget the 23 hose clamps. Bob Haas.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David
Smith
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 11:59 AM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Jabiru 3300 Smoothness
I have flown behind a Rotax in the pre-production model of the Liberty XL.
I found the engine to be very buzzy. For those of you who are flying the
Jabiru 3300, how is the smoothness of operation for the flat six?
Thanks,
David Smith
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "T. Graziano" <tonyplane(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Jabiru 3300 Smoothness |
I wholeheartedly agree with Mr. Haas!!
Tony Graziano
331 enjoyable flight hrs behind a Jab 3300 mounted on a Zodiac 601XL
-----------------------------------------------------
RE: Jabiru 3300 Smoothness
From: Bob Haas (checkpoint2(at)comcast.net)
Date: Thu Dec 20 - 10:49 AM
David! After you have flown in a Jabiru 3000 powered aircraft, You
will
Throw ROCKS at any Rotax machine. While you are about it check out the
parts replacements prices and don't forget the 23 hose clamps. Bob Haas.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David
Smith
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 11:59 AM
Subject: Jabiru 3300 Smoothness
I have flown behind a Rotax in the pre-production model of the Liberty
XL.
I found the engine to be very buzzy. For those of you who are flying
the
Jabiru 3300, how is the smoothness of operation for the flat six?
Thanks,
David Smith
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N1BZRich(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Jabiru 3300 Smoothness |
Dave,
Several have answered you already, so let me echo what they said and
also add a few thoughts. I have been flying my highly modified Esqual (with
Jabiru 3300) for exactly two years now (finishing up the 2nd annual today) and
I
have exactly 405 hours on the engine and airframe. In that 405 hours I have
had absolutely no problems with the engine and I run it hard. Only standard
maintenance has been required and accomplished. I change oil and filter
every 25 to 35 hours, replace the plugs at 100 hours (heck, they are around
$2.00 each so why clean them), accomplish head torques and valve adjustments on
schedule, and replaced caps and rotors at 250 hours (I think the book calls for
that to be done at 200). Compressions this year varied between 70 and 73
for all 6 cylinders - in fact two were 70, two were 72, and two were 73. The
Jabiru guys say that is right in the ball park for an engine with between 300
to 500 hours. To say I am pleased with the engine would be an
understatement. All of my previous airplanes have been powered with Continentals
and
Lycomings, but I must say this engine is just as reliable and easy to work on
as
either of those. In fact the Jabiru 3300 kind of reminds me of a 6 cylinder
Continental the way it is designed and goes together. If you do end up with
a Jabiru, I highly recommend the engine seminar at Jabiru USA in Tennessee.
As a side note, and just for grins, I offer the following information
and calculations: My Esqual easily cruises at 150 mph indicated at low to
medium altitude burning less than 5 gallons per hour. At altitude (8 to 10
thousand feet) on a long cross country I can expect to see 170 MPH TAS burning
about 5.8 gallons per hour. Therefore, 405 hours at a conservative average
speed of 150 mph equals 60,750 miles, or damn near 2.44 times around the world
at
the equator. Aren't you impressed? However, since it took me 2 years to
do that 60,750 miles, my average speed for 2.4 times around the world in two
years works out to a speedy 3.467 mph. Santa is way faster. :-)
Blue Skies and a Merry Christmas to all,
Buz Rich
**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TELEDYNMCS(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 01/06/08 |
Please Unsubscribe
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Just Highlander 3300 |
| From: | "Gary Weaver" <gweaver(at)nctv.com> |
GEE, after reading all the posts about the 3300 overheating I was wondering if
I made a good decision buying the 3300. I was thinking about pressuring the cowl.
Has anyone done that? Also, the little V plates that are to go on top on the
cylinders. It's seems it makes more sense to put them on the bottom. Has anyone
tried that? Just a thought.
Gary
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=157763#157763
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/pict0017_2_203.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Moody II" <dredmoody(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Just Highlander 3300 |
Those V-shaped deflectors are necessary to force the airflow through the
cylinder wall fins rather than letting more of the air simply flow
through the gap between the cylinders. They should be on the incoming
side of your airflow route. If the cooling air comes in from the top,
put them on top. If your cooling air comes in from the bottom, put them
on the bottom. If you do the opposite, the effect of forcing the air
through the fins will occur much later in the airstream with reduced
effectiveness.
Dred
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Weaver
To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 11:26 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Just Highlander 3300
GEE, after reading all the posts about the 3300 overheating I was
wondering if I made a good decision buying the 3300. I was thinking
about pressuring the cowl. Has anyone done that? Also, the little V
plates that are to go on top on the cylinders. It's seems it makes more
sense to put them on the bottom. Has anyone tried that? Just a thought.
Gary
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=157763#157763
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/pict0017_2_203.jpg
--
1/12/2008 2:04 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | nick otterback <vettin74(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Just Highlander 3300 |
Not sure who has been talking about the 3300 over heating, certianly not anyone
who has installed the engine and baffling correctly. Have been building and installing
jabs for several years and in dozens of different types for 100mph RANS
S7s to 170mph Lightnings all with success. The older solid lifter engines
had a lower Mx temp however with the proper installation are not an issue. The
new engines are very nice to install and have a much higher CHT max making installation
a little more fool proof.
Nick
Arion aircraft LLC
Gary Weaver wrote:
GEE, after reading all the posts about the 3300 overheating I was wondering if
I made a good decision buying the 3300. I was thinking about pressuring the cowl.
Has anyone done that? Also, the little V plates that are to go on top on the
cylinders. It's seems it makes more sense to put them on the bottom. Has anyone
tried that? Just a thought.
Gary
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=157763#157763
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/pict0017_2_203.jpg
---------------------------------
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cygan(at)optusnet.com.au |
G'Day from Australia,
Reference the overheating -- one of the guys here in our club seems to have cured
the problem -- he has the plates on both the top on the bottom and considerably
bigger than those that are suggested and only on the left side............I'll
be installing them on mine on FRI.
I'll try to take some pix of his installation on FRI.
Let me know if you try it and it works.
Cheers from OZ
cy (cy0408(at)googlemail.com)
Kitfox
Jabiru 3300
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Just Highlander 3300 |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Gary, you know your probably correct about that Jab 3300 engine overheating. It
probably will overheat and ruin and you'll lose everything. I might be able to
help you out with your problem and I was thinking about building an airboat
and it might work on it. I'll help you and buy your 3300 from you if your really
concerned. Can't really pay you much for an engine that's probably a dud. I'll
offer you $2,000. U.S. cash dollars and I'll come pick it up. Just let me
know, Best regards, Bill of Georgia
-----Original Message-----
From: Edward Moody II <dredmoody(at)cox.net>
Sent: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 7:30 am
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Just Highlander 3300
Those V-shaped deflectors are necessary to force the airflow through the cylinder
wall fins rather than letting more of the air simply flow through the gap between
the cylinders. They should be on the incoming side of your airflow route.
If the cooling air comes in from the top, put them on top. If your cooling
air comes in from the bottom, put them on the bottom. If you do the opposite,
the effect of forcing the air through the fins will occur much later in the airstream
with reduced effectiveness.
?
Dred
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Weaver
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 11:26 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Just Highlander 3300
GEE, after reading all the posts about the 3300 overheating I was wondering if
I made a good decision buying the 3300. I was thinking about pressuring the cowl.
Has anyone done that? Also, the little V plates that are to go on top on the
cylinders. It's seems it makes more sense to put them on the bottom.? Has anyone
tried that? Just a thought.
Gary
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=157763#157763
Attachments:
http://forp;?? Features Chat, --> http://www.p;???? via the Web href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
-- Edition. 1/12/2008 2:04 PM
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Morrisey <donmorrisey(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Just Highlander 3300 |
Gary, if you go to the yahoo jabiru engine email list and search for Fisher
Dakota Hawk. There are several builders of that airplane using a standard
lyc/conti cowl pressurization baffle system. One builder/pilot in Austral
ia swears by it after having heating issues with an early 3300.
However, you shouldn't have an issue if you install the engine and ram air
ducts properly.
Don.www.donsbushcaddy.comDon Morrisey's Skunkworks
_________________________________________________________________
Get the power of Windows + Web with the new Windows Live.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Turk" <matronics(at)rtist.nl> |
| Subject: | Re: Just Highlander 3300 |
Glad to see I'm not the only one suspecting this to be a troll..
;-)
Rob
----- Original Message -----
From: Don Morrisey
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2008 9:00 PM
Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: Just Highlander 3300
Gary, if you go to the yahoo jabiru engine email list and search for Fisher
Dakota Hawk. There are several builders of that airplane using a standard
lyc/conti cowl pressurization baffle system. One builder/pilot in Australia
swears by it after having heating issues with an early 3300.
However, you shouldn't have an issue if you install the engine and ram air
ducts properly.
Don.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Turk" <matronics(at)rtist.nl> |
| Subject: | Re: Just Highlander 3300 |
Whoops! Responded to the wrong message, sorry... I meant to say that Bill
sees what I'm seeing as well. This Gary guy is deliberately telling us he
will do things entirely against everything we have learned in the past years
about using a Jabiru engine, and deliberately mentioning options that are
soooo wrong it's not even funny. Gary must be trolling. If not, I'm bidding
$2100...
Rob
----- Original Message -----
From: japhillipsga(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2008 6:58 PM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Just Highlander 3300
Gary, you know your probably correct about that Jab 3300 engine overheating.
It probably will overheat and ruin and you'll lose everything. I might be
able to help you out with your problem and I was thinking about building an
airboat and it might work on it. I'll help you and buy your 3300 from you if
your really concerned. Can't really pay you much for an engine that's
probably a dud. I'll offer you $2,000. U.S. cash dollars and I'll come pick
it up. Just let me know, Best regards, Bill of Georgia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Just Highlander 3300 |
I'll bid $2150, permit him to deliver it, and for his trouble, I'll
give him a tour of all the depressed areas of Michigan, including all
the shut-down industrial centers of the State. : )
Lynn
On Jan 16, 2008, at 3:54 PM, Rob Turk wrote:
>
>
> Whoops! Responded to the wrong message, sorry... I meant to say
> that Bill sees what I'm seeing as well. This Gary guy is
> deliberately telling us he will do things entirely against
> everything we have learned in the past years about using a Jabiru
> engine, and deliberately mentioning options that are soooo wrong
> it's not even funny. Gary must be trolling. If not, I'm bidding
> $2100...
>
> Rob
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: japhillipsga(at)aol.com
> To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2008 6:58 PM
> Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Just Highlander 3300
>
>
> Gary, you know your probably correct about that Jab 3300 engine
> overheating. It probably will overheat and ruin and you'll lose
> everything. I might be able to help you out with your problem and I
> was thinking about building an airboat and it might work on it.
> I'll help you and buy your 3300 from you if your really concerned.
> Can't really pay you much for an engine that's probably a dud. I'll
> offer you $2,000. U.S. cash dollars and I'll come pick it up. Just
> let me know, Best regards, Bill of Georgia
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N1BZRich(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Just Highlander 3300 |
In a message dated 1/16/2008 1:08:52 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
japhillipsga(at)aol.com writes:
Gary, you know your probably correct about that Jab 3300 engine overheating.
It probably will overheat and ruin and you'll lose everything. I might be
able to help you out with your problem and I was thinking about building an
airboat and it might work on it. I'll help you and buy your 3300 from you if
your really concerned. Can't really pay you much for an engine that's probably
a
dud. I'll offer you $2,000.
What a bunch of crock. If the Jabiru 3300 is installed correctly using
the supplied parts as specified, then you should be able to get the CHTs into
the correct range. You can do some adjusting on individual CHTs by placing
small deflectors over individual cylinders and by slightly changing the
baffle height in front of #1 and #3 which will change the amount of air that goes
through the fiber-glass air ducts. Remember, you want high pressure on top
of the cylinders and low pressure under them. You can also help the situation
by installing a small air dam to help air exit at the aft end of the lower
cowling. This of course lowers air pressure under the cylinders and increases
the air flow through the cylinders.
I have flown seven different Jabiru powered aircraft (six with the 3300
and one with the 2200) and with these adjustments as mentioned above, all
have been well within the CHT ranges. The slowest was a Rans S7 and with the
3300 it was a real Super Cub beater. Fun airplane. Next slowest was a Zodiac
601XL which my EAA chapter built with me being the lead technical advisor and
once again the air duct adjustments with small deflectors over the cylinders
needing more cooling air did the trick. All the other Jabiru powered
airplanes that I have flown have been the speedier homebuilts like the Esqual
and
Lightning. Again, no problems if you install the engine and air ducts as
specified. If you continue to have problems, call the folks at Jabiru USA in
Tennessee. In my mind, they are the experts. In fact, if you have not been to
their Jabiur engine school, you have short changed yourself in your quest
for knowledge.
Blue Skies,
Buz Rich
Highly modified Esqual with lots of Lightning stuff and a 3300 Jab that
has 416 hours on it in the last 2 years. No problems on it and I run it
hard.
**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Just Highlander 3300 |
| From: | "Gary Weaver" <gweaver(at)nctv.com> |
Well, thanks for all your advice. I've never flown a plane with a Jabiru. I have
only flown supers cubs and 180's.
What a swell bunch of guys!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=158712#158712
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 01/16/08 |
PLEASE DROP ME FROM THE LIST.
THANKS.
PAUL 562 439 4544 Phone
**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 01/16/08 |
Some how this list is not working for me. I use the Cardinal forum with no
problems. This one always comes up with 0 messages. For weeks and weeks.
Paul d Computer Challenged.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gary aman <gaman(at)att.net> |
Pete,
I have a 2200a on a Kolb that carb ices badly.I know that there is an electrically
operated carb heater made by ST aviation that attaches directly to the
carb body at the throttle shaft bosses.Do you know where I can purchase one?
Thanx G Aman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Silvester" <andy(at)suncoastjabiru.com> |
We normally stock these Ice Eliminator kits but need to check stock
after
returning from the Sebring LSA show next week.
Andy Silvester
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary
aman
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 6:27 PM
Subject:
Pete,
I have a 2200a on a Kolb that carb ices badly.I know that there is
an
electrically operated carb heater made by ST aviation that attaches
directly
to the carb body at the throttle shaft bosses.Do you know where I can
purchase one?
Thanx G Aman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Silvester" <andy(at)suncoastjabiru.com> |
We normally stock these Ice Eliminator kits but need to check stock
after
returning from the Sebring LSA show next week.
Andy Silvester
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary
aman
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 6:27 PM
Subject:
Pete,
I have a 2200a on a Kolb that carb ices badly.I know that there is
an
electrically operated carb heater made by ST aviation that attaches
directly
to the carb body at the throttle shaft bosses.Do you know where I can
purchase one?
Thanx G Aman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ElleryWeld(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: (no subject) |
Pete
here is the info for you to contact a guy that Has the Carb Heaters for the
Jabiru engines his name is Roger Lewis _staviation.services(at)btinternet.com_
(mailto:staviation.services(at)btinternet.com) This will help you
How do You like the 2200 On Your
**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Haas" <checkpoint2(at)comcast.net> |
Anybody have any information about a supercharger or turbo charger
For the 2200 Jabiru engine?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gary aman <gaman(at)att.net> |
I would think any boost in manifold pressure might give you temps way over recommended
limits for 2200 cyl heads.
Anybody have any information about a supercharger or turbo charger
For the 2200 Jabiru engine?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | info(at)usjabiru.com |
We have them in stock. Just call Bonnie or Dana at 931-680-2800.
Pete
> Pete,
> I have a 2200a on a Kolb that carb ices badly.I know that there is an
> electrically operated carb heater made by ST aviation that attaches
> directly to the carb body at the throttle shaft bosses.Do you know
> where I can purchase one?
> Thanx G Aman
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jabiru USA" <info(at)usjabiru.com> |
We have the Ice Eliminator in stock. Just call 931-680-2800 to order
Pete Krotje
Jabiru USA Sport Aircraft, LLC
_____
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary aman
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 12:27 PM
Subject:
Pete,
I have a 2200a on a Kolb that carb ices badly.I know that there is an
electrically operated carb heater made by ST aviation that attaches directly
to the carb body at the throttle shaft bosses.Do you know where I can
purchase one?
Thanx G Aman
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Jabiru 3300 Smoothness |
| From: | "pequeajim" <pequeajim(at)gmail.com> |
I might add that Buz is a former military jet fighter pilot and I know he doesn't
fly his aircraft like a Taylorcraft. If there was going to be a problem with
an engine he was using, it would show up for sure...
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159669#159669
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Do You Need All 6 EGT's?? |
| From: | "DaveG601XL" <david.m.gallagher(at)ge.com> |
I am still working on my Jabiru 3300/Zenith 601XL FWF and have this to throw out
to you all for opinions?
Do you really need to drill all six exhaust pipes and read six EGT's if using
the Bing carb??
I understand that you cannot tune individual cylinders with this carb set-up.
You can only change jet sizes to modify overall mixture or tilt the carb to favor
one side or another. This said, Pete's recommendation from Jabiru USA is
to still go ahead and drill all six.
I do not mind the work of drilling the extra four holes. My concern is of creating
four more potential sources of undercowl heat and carbon monoxide from possible
leaks. Maybe this is a non-issue, I don't know. Also I know that more
thermocouples increases the chances of a bad sensor making you think there is
a problem where none exists.
Can anybody with real world experience of reading all six cylinders chime in with:
1. Have you found any evidence where these probes leaked and caused issues.
2. Did reading all six EGT's tell you something that you would not have found out
by reading only two.
Pete, these are the follow-up questions that I did not think to ask when I first
asked you about this at the FWF seminar last fall.
Thanks,
--------
David Gallagher
601 XL, tail and wings completed,
fueslage almost done. Working engine and electrical systems.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159830#159830
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Lenox" <waynelenox(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Do You Need All 6 EGT's?? |
Dave
Yes you need all six EGT'S. If you have one bad plug, it is easy to fin
d with mag check. One cylinder will go cold. You cannot tune individua
l cylinders with this carb set-up, but sure can tell if one is leaner th
en the others and need attention.
I have run six cylinder EGT'S on my C-182 for years and would not do wit
h out them. I have found they seal up very well, no leaks. I do check
that the clamps on the EGT censers are tight at each oil change. You ne
ed all six!!
Wayne
-- "DaveG601XL" wrote:
@ge.com>
I am still working on my Jabiru 3300/Zenith 601XL FWF and have this to t
hrow out to you all for opinions?
Do you really need to drill all six exhaust pipes and read six EGT's if
using the Bing carb??
I understand that you cannot tune individual cylinders with this carb se
t-up. You can only change jet sizes to modify overall mixture or tilt t
he carb to favor one side or another. This said, Pete's recommendation
from Jabiru USA is to still go ahead and drill all six.
I do not mind the work of drilling the extra four holes. My concern is
of creating four more potential sources of undercowl heat and carbon mon
oxide from possible leaks. Maybe this is a non-issue, I don't know. Al
so I know that more thermocouples increases the chances of a bad sensor
making you think there is a problem where none exists.
Can anybody with real world experience of reading all six cylinders chim
e in with:
1. Have you found any evidence where these probes leaked and caused issu
es.
2. Did reading all six EGT's tell you something that you would not have
found out by reading only two.
Pete, these are the follow-up questions that I did not think to ask when
I first asked you about this at the FWF seminar last fall.
Thanks,
--------
David Gallagher
601 XL, tail and wings completed,
fueslage almost done. Working engine and electrical systems.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159830#159830
========================
===========
========================
===========
========================
===========
========================
===========
_____________________________________________________________
Need cash? Click to get a loan.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2121/fc/Ioyw6i3mKiveWkLt1sW4JWhsaCeT
p5VBDXmoJ7yX6LUtHtdqWw0JRo/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JOSEPH MATHIAS LINDA MATHIAS" <lbmathias(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Do You Need All 6 EGT's?? |
Dave,
I have all 6 EGT's and CHT's on my 3300 in a Lightning; the
comparisons for all 6 have been invaluable in troubleshooting and resolving
some CHT overheating problems through the past summer. I am still having
some fairly large discrepancies between the EGT's on the left and right
sides of the engine during climbout; still working to resolve those. Both
rejetting and twisting the carb helped a little but I was unable to twist it
far enough to resolve the problem because the second twist caused a blockage
of the throttle linkage. I may have to rejet again but having the #s for
all cylinders helps JabiruUSA/Arion know how to advise me.
Linda Mathias
----- Original Message -----
From: "DaveG601XL" <david.m.gallagher(at)ge.com>
To:
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 4:32 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Do You Need All 6 EGT's??
>
> I am still working on my Jabiru 3300/Zenith 601XL FWF and have this to
throw out to you all for opinions?
>
> Do you really need to drill all six exhaust pipes and read six EGT's if
using the Bing carb??
>
> I understand that you cannot tune individual cylinders with this carb
set-up. You can only change jet sizes to modify overall mixture or tilt the
carb to favor one side or another. This said, Pete's recommendation from
Jabiru USA is to still go ahead and drill all six.
>
> I do not mind the work of drilling the extra four holes. My concern is
of creating four more potential sources of undercowl heat and carbon
monoxide from possible leaks. Maybe this is a non-issue, I don't know.
Also I know that more thermocouples increases the chances of a bad sensor
making you think there is a problem where none exists.
>
> Can anybody with real world experience of reading all six cylinders
chime in with:
>
> 1. Have you found any evidence where these probes leaked and caused
issues.
> 2. Did reading all six EGT's tell you something that you would not have
found out by reading only two.
>
> Pete, these are the follow-up questions that I did not think to ask when
I first asked you about this at the FWF seminar last fall.
>
> Thanks,
>
> --------
> David Gallagher
> 601 XL, tail and wings completed,
> fueslage almost done. Working engine and electrical systems.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159830#159830
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Do You Need All 6 EGT's?? |
Dave
Good questions I think Dave. I went through the same logic, but also each of
my probes cost AUD60 and the leads are AUD50. I worked with two probes and
the Bing and confirmed that #5 (RHS) was a good deal hotter than #6 (LHS)
which can be cured by tilting the carb. I also found the mixture excessively
rich above 2800rpm and this tends to lessen the heat differential at the
expense of power. The needle valve seat leaks from about 2800RPM up.
I have since fitted EFI using a single throttle body with two injectors,
which mounts into the Bing spigot hose.
The additional airflow has made the problem worse and the difference in T
becomes very high above 2800RPM. I can cure the T differential problem only
by running excessively rich at the cost of power.
I believe the cause of the problem is due to the fact that the intake
headers are fed from a collector of less than 1/2L capacity. The carb feeds
the collector. A very neat and economical manufacturing design at the
expense of uniform distribution of the fuel air mix.
Good design (for EFI) demands a manifold of at least 3L capacity and I am
starting a project to make it happen for my installation.
Peter H
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
DaveG601XL
Sent: Wednesday, 23 January 2008 7:32 AM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Do You Need All 6 EGT's??
I am still working on my Jabiru 3300/Zenith 601XL FWF and have this to throw
out to you all for opinions?
Do you really need to drill all six exhaust pipes and read six EGT's if
using the Bing carb??
I understand that you cannot tune individual cylinders with this carb
set-up. You can only change jet sizes to modify overall mixture or tilt the
carb to favor one side or another. This said, Pete's recommendation from
Jabiru USA is to still go ahead and drill all six.
I do not mind the work of drilling the extra four holes. My concern is of
creating four more potential sources of undercowl heat and carbon monoxide
from possible leaks. Maybe this is a non-issue, I don't know. Also I know
that more thermocouples increases the chances of a bad sensor making you
think there is a problem where none exists.
Can anybody with real world experience of reading all six cylinders chime in
with:
1. Have you found any evidence where these probes leaked and caused issues.
2. Did reading all six EGT's tell you something that you would not have
found out by reading only two.
Pete, these are the follow-up questions that I did not think to ask when I
first asked you about this at the FWF seminar last fall.
Thanks,
--------
David Gallagher
601 XL, tail and wings completed,
fueslage almost done. Working engine and electrical systems.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159830#159830
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jabiru USA" <info(at)usjabiru.com> |
| Subject: | Do You Need All 6 EGT's?? |
We don't find any issues with the probes leaking. Once in a while we see an
oddly lean cylinder which may indicate an intake leak.
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
DaveG601XL
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 3:32 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Do You Need All 6 EGT's??
I am still working on my Jabiru 3300/Zenith 601XL FWF and have this to throw
out to you all for opinions?
Do you really need to drill all six exhaust pipes and read six EGT's if
using the Bing carb??
I understand that you cannot tune individual cylinders with this carb
set-up. You can only change jet sizes to modify overall mixture or tilt the
carb to favor one side or another. This said, Pete's recommendation from
Jabiru USA is to still go ahead and drill all six.
I do not mind the work of drilling the extra four holes. My concern is of
creating four more potential sources of undercowl heat and carbon monoxide
from possible leaks. Maybe this is a non-issue, I don't know. Also I know
that more thermocouples increases the chances of a bad sensor making you
think there is a problem where none exists.
Can anybody with real world experience of reading all six cylinders chime in
with:
1. Have you found any evidence where these probes leaked and caused issues.
2. Did reading all six EGT's tell you something that you would not have
found out by reading only two.
Pete, these are the follow-up questions that I did not think to ask when I
first asked you about this at the FWF seminar last fall.
Thanks,
--------
David Gallagher
601 XL, tail and wings completed,
fueslage almost done. Working engine and electrical systems.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159830#159830
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Do You Need All 6 EGT's?? |
Linda,
Can you advise please, what is a typical pattern of EGT ie are the RHS
hotter but even or do they also vary , and by how much. Are the LHS even and
cooler?
Thanks
Peter H
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of JOSEPH
MATHIAS LINDA MATHIAS
Sent: Wednesday, 23 January 2008 8:19 AM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Do You Need All 6 EGT's??
Dave,
I have all 6 EGT's and CHT's on my 3300 in a Lightning; the
comparisons for all 6 have been invaluable in troubleshooting and resolving
some CHT overheating problems through the past summer. I am still having
some fairly large discrepancies between the EGT's on the left and right
sides of the engine during climbout; still working to resolve those. Both
rejetting and twisting the carb helped a little but I was unable to twist it
far enough to resolve the problem because the second twist caused a blockage
of the throttle linkage. I may have to rejet again but having the #s for
all cylinders helps JabiruUSA/Arion know how to advise me.
Linda Mathias
----- Original Message -----
From: "DaveG601XL" <david.m.gallagher(at)ge.com>
To:
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 4:32 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Do You Need All 6 EGT's??
>
> I am still working on my Jabiru 3300/Zenith 601XL FWF and have this to
throw out to you all for opinions?
>
> Do you really need to drill all six exhaust pipes and read six EGT's if
using the Bing carb??
>
> I understand that you cannot tune individual cylinders with this carb
set-up. You can only change jet sizes to modify overall mixture or tilt the
carb to favor one side or another. This said, Pete's recommendation from
Jabiru USA is to still go ahead and drill all six.
>
> I do not mind the work of drilling the extra four holes. My concern is
of creating four more potential sources of undercowl heat and carbon
monoxide from possible leaks. Maybe this is a non-issue, I don't know.
Also I know that more thermocouples increases the chances of a bad sensor
making you think there is a problem where none exists.
>
> Can anybody with real world experience of reading all six cylinders
chime in with:
>
> 1. Have you found any evidence where these probes leaked and caused
issues.
> 2. Did reading all six EGT's tell you something that you would not have
found out by reading only two.
>
> Pete, these are the follow-up questions that I did not think to ask when
I first asked you about this at the FWF seminar last fall.
>
> Thanks,
>
> --------
> David Gallagher
> 601 XL, tail and wings completed,
> fueslage almost done. Working engine and electrical systems.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159830#159830
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ivan Brauer" <imap8ntr(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Do You Need All 6 EGT's?? |
Please update my profile to change my email address. I tried to do it
online but I forgot my name and/or password. My new email address is
IMAP8NTR(at)COX.NET
Thanks
Ivan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 4:39 PM
Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: Do You Need All 6 EGT's??
>
>
> Linda,
> Can you advise please, what is a typical pattern of EGT ie are the RHS
> hotter but even or do they also vary , and by how much. Are the LHS even
> and
> cooler?
> Thanks
> Peter H
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of JOSEPH
> MATHIAS LINDA MATHIAS
> Sent: Wednesday, 23 January 2008 8:19 AM
> To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Do You Need All 6 EGT's??
>
>
>
> Dave,
>
> I have all 6 EGT's and CHT's on my 3300 in a Lightning; the
> comparisons for all 6 have been invaluable in troubleshooting and
> resolving
> some CHT overheating problems through the past summer. I am still having
> some fairly large discrepancies between the EGT's on the left and right
> sides of the engine during climbout; still working to resolve those.
> Both
> rejetting and twisting the carb helped a little but I was unable to twist
> it
>
> far enough to resolve the problem because the second twist caused a
> blockage
>
> of the throttle linkage. I may have to rejet again but having the #s for
> all cylinders helps JabiruUSA/Arion know how to advise me.
>
> Linda Mathias
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "DaveG601XL" <david.m.gallagher(at)ge.com>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 4:32 PM
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Do You Need All 6 EGT's??
>
>
>
> >
> > I am still working on my Jabiru 3300/Zenith 601XL FWF and have this to
> throw out to you all for opinions?
> >
> > Do you really need to drill all six exhaust pipes and read six EGT's if
> using the Bing carb??
> >
> > I understand that you cannot tune individual cylinders with this carb
> set-up. You can only change jet sizes to modify overall mixture or tilt
> the
>
> carb to favor one side or another. This said, Pete's recommendation from
> Jabiru USA is to still go ahead and drill all six.
> >
> > I do not mind the work of drilling the extra four holes. My concern is
> of creating four more potential sources of undercowl heat and carbon
> monoxide from possible leaks. Maybe this is a non-issue, I don't know.
> Also I know that more thermocouples increases the chances of a bad sensor
> making you think there is a problem where none exists.
> >
> > Can anybody with real world experience of reading all six cylinders
> chime in with:
> >
> > 1. Have you found any evidence where these probes leaked and caused
> issues.
> > 2. Did reading all six EGT's tell you something that you would not have
> found out by reading only two.
> >
> > Pete, these are the follow-up questions that I did not think to ask
> when
>
> I first asked you about this at the FWF seminar last fall.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > --------
> > David Gallagher
> > 601 XL, tail and wings completed,
> > fueslage almost done. Working engine and electrical systems.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159830#159830
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ----
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Do You Need All 6 EGT's?? |
In a message dated 1/22/2008 4:35:38 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
david.m.gallagher(at)ge.com writes:
Do you really need to drill all six exhaust pipes and read six EGT's if
using the Bing carb??
No you dont.
but it also depends on what you are using to monitor them. If you are
looking at 6 numbers, I find that distracting. If you have a graphic
representation, that is better.
If you notice one exhaust is higher than the others, can you do anything
about it? Not really. But it will give you something to worry about on long
cross countries. You can try flying along sideways to see if you can even the
flow through the carb!!!
CHTs are a different matter. You need all 6.
Just my opinion.
Doug Koenigsberg
**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JOSEPH MATHIAS LINDA MATHIAS" <lbmathias(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Do You Need All 6 EGT's?? |
Peter,
The biggest discrepancy occurs during climbout at full power; #3 and
#5 cylinder are generally in the high 1300's or even sometimes in the 1400's
while #4 and #6 are registering about 1130-1150. Nos. 1 and 2 are usually
in the low 1300's.
Linda
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com>
To:
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 6:39 PM
Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: Do You Need All 6 EGT's??
>
> Linda,
> Can you advise please, what is a typical pattern of EGT ie are the RHS
> hotter but even or do they also vary , and by how much. Are the LHS even
and
> cooler?
> Thanks
> Peter H
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
JOSEPH
> MATHIAS LINDA MATHIAS
> Sent: Wednesday, 23 January 2008 8:19 AM
> To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Do You Need All 6 EGT's??
>
>
>
> Dave,
>
> I have all 6 EGT's and CHT's on my 3300 in a Lightning; the
> comparisons for all 6 have been invaluable in troubleshooting and
resolving
> some CHT overheating problems through the past summer. I am still
having
> some fairly large discrepancies between the EGT's on the left and right
> sides of the engine during climbout; still working to resolve those.
Both
> rejetting and twisting the carb helped a little but I was unable to
twist it
>
> far enough to resolve the problem because the second twist caused a
blockage
>
> of the throttle linkage. I may have to rejet again but having the #s
for
> all cylinders helps JabiruUSA/Arion know how to advise me.
>
> Linda Mathias
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "DaveG601XL" <david.m.gallagher(at)ge.com>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 4:32 PM
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Do You Need All 6 EGT's??
>
>
>
> >
> > I am still working on my Jabiru 3300/Zenith 601XL FWF and have this
to
> throw out to you all for opinions?
> >
> > Do you really need to drill all six exhaust pipes and read six EGT's
if
> using the Bing carb??
> >
> > I understand that you cannot tune individual cylinders with this carb
> set-up. You can only change jet sizes to modify overall mixture or tilt
the
>
> carb to favor one side or another. This said, Pete's recommendation
from
> Jabiru USA is to still go ahead and drill all six.
> >
> > I do not mind the work of drilling the extra four holes. My concern
is
> of creating four more potential sources of undercowl heat and carbon
> monoxide from possible leaks. Maybe this is a non-issue, I don't know.
> Also I know that more thermocouples increases the chances of a bad
sensor
> making you think there is a problem where none exists.
> >
> > Can anybody with real world experience of reading all six cylinders
> chime in with:
> >
> > 1. Have you found any evidence where these probes leaked and caused
> issues.
> > 2. Did reading all six EGT's tell you something that you would not
have
> found out by reading only two.
> >
> > Pete, these are the follow-up questions that I did not think to ask
when
>
> I first asked you about this at the FWF seminar last fall.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > --------
> > David Gallagher
> > 601 XL, tail and wings completed,
> > fueslage almost done. Working engine and electrical systems.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159830#159830
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ----
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Do You Need All 6 EGT's?? |
Linda,Thanks
I have seen similar EGT variance and up to 145degC difference above 2800rpm.
I get different results depending on RPM and I believe it is due to
turbulence in the collector I referred earlier.
Peter
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of JOSEPH
MATHIAS LINDA MATHIAS
Sent: Wednesday, 23 January 2008 12:46 PM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Do You Need All 6 EGT's??
Peter,
The biggest discrepancy occurs during climbout at full power; #3 and
#5 cylinder are generally in the high 1300's or even sometimes in the 1400's
while #4 and #6 are registering about 1130-1150. Nos. 1 and 2 are usually
in the low 1300's.
Linda
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com>
To:
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 6:39 PM
Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: Do You Need All 6 EGT's??
>
> Linda,
> Can you advise please, what is a typical pattern of EGT ie are the RHS
> hotter but even or do they also vary , and by how much. Are the LHS even
and
> cooler?
> Thanks
> Peter H
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
JOSEPH
> MATHIAS LINDA MATHIAS
> Sent: Wednesday, 23 January 2008 8:19 AM
> To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Do You Need All 6 EGT's??
>
>
>
> Dave,
>
> I have all 6 EGT's and CHT's on my 3300 in a Lightning; the
> comparisons for all 6 have been invaluable in troubleshooting and
resolving
> some CHT overheating problems through the past summer. I am still
having
> some fairly large discrepancies between the EGT's on the left and right
> sides of the engine during climbout; still working to resolve those.
Both
> rejetting and twisting the carb helped a little but I was unable to
twist it
>
> far enough to resolve the problem because the second twist caused a
blockage
>
> of the throttle linkage. I may have to rejet again but having the #s
for
> all cylinders helps JabiruUSA/Arion know how to advise me.
>
> Linda Mathias
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "DaveG601XL" <david.m.gallagher(at)ge.com>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 4:32 PM
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Do You Need All 6 EGT's??
>
>
>
> >
> > I am still working on my Jabiru 3300/Zenith 601XL FWF and have this
to
> throw out to you all for opinions?
> >
> > Do you really need to drill all six exhaust pipes and read six EGT's
if
> using the Bing carb??
> >
> > I understand that you cannot tune individual cylinders with this carb
> set-up. You can only change jet sizes to modify overall mixture or tilt
the
>
> carb to favor one side or another. This said, Pete's recommendation
from
> Jabiru USA is to still go ahead and drill all six.
> >
> > I do not mind the work of drilling the extra four holes. My concern
is
> of creating four more potential sources of undercowl heat and carbon
> monoxide from possible leaks. Maybe this is a non-issue, I don't know.
> Also I know that more thermocouples increases the chances of a bad
sensor
> making you think there is a problem where none exists.
> >
> > Can anybody with real world experience of reading all six cylinders
> chime in with:
> >
> > 1. Have you found any evidence where these probes leaked and caused
> issues.
> > 2. Did reading all six EGT's tell you something that you would not
have
> found out by reading only two.
> >
> > Pete, these are the follow-up questions that I did not think to ask
when
>
> I first asked you about this at the FWF seminar last fall.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > --------
> > David Gallagher
> > 601 XL, tail and wings completed,
> > fueslage almost done. Working engine and electrical systems.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159830#159830
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ----
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Do You Need All 6 EGT's?? |
I'll jump in here with couple of numbers from my 2200....At about
2750 rpm, the left front would read 1390 and the LR 1330. When I went
to 2850, they would almost swap readings to within a few degrees of
the original readings. The right side would do something similar, but
I didn't take real good mental notes of that side. All temps are of
course F, and this was flown during an OAT of about 20 F.
I'm real glad I have all four cylinders monitored, and if I had the
3300, I'd want them all monitored as well.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/460+ hrs
On Jan 22, 2008, at 11:48 PM, Peter Harris wrote:
>
>
> Linda,Thanks
> I have seen similar EGT variance and up to 145degC difference above
> 2800rpm.
> I get different results depending on RPM and I believe it is due to
> turbulence in the collector I referred earlier.
> Peter
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> JOSEPH
> MATHIAS LINDA MATHIAS
> Sent: Wednesday, 23 January 2008 12:46 PM
> To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Do You Need All 6 EGT's??
>
> MATHIAS"
>
>
> Peter,
>
> The biggest discrepancy occurs during climbout at full power;
> #3 and
> #5 cylinder are generally in the high 1300's or even sometimes in
> the 1400's
>
> while #4 and #6 are registering about 1130-1150. Nos. 1 and 2 are
> usually
> in the low 1300's.
>
> Linda
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Peter Harris" <peterjfharris(at)bigpond.com>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 6:39 PM
> Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: Do You Need All 6 EGT's??
>
>
>
>>
>> Linda,
>> Can you advise please, what is a typical pattern of EGT ie are the
>> RHS
>> hotter but even or do they also vary , and by how much. Are the
>> LHS even
>
> and
>> cooler?
>> Thanks
>> Peter H
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> JOSEPH
>> MATHIAS LINDA MATHIAS
>> Sent: Wednesday, 23 January 2008 8:19 AM
>> To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Do You Need All 6 EGT's??
>>
>> MATHIAS"
>>
>>
>> Dave,
>>
>> I have all 6 EGT's and CHT's on my 3300 in a Lightning; the
>> comparisons for all 6 have been invaluable in troubleshooting and
> resolving
>> some CHT overheating problems through the past summer. I am still
> having
>> some fairly large discrepancies between the EGT's on the left and
>> right
>> sides of the engine during climbout; still working to resolve those.
> Both
>> rejetting and twisting the carb helped a little but I was unable to
> twist it
>>
>> far enough to resolve the problem because the second twist caused a
> blockage
>>
>> of the throttle linkage. I may have to rejet again but having the #s
> for
>> all cylinders helps JabiruUSA/Arion know how to advise me.
>>
>> Linda Mathias
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "DaveG601XL" <david.m.gallagher(at)ge.com>
>> To:
>> Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 4:32 PM
>> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Do You Need All 6 EGT's??
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>> I am still working on my Jabiru 3300/Zenith 601XL FWF and have this
> to
>> throw out to you all for opinions?
>>>
>>> Do you really need to drill all six exhaust pipes and read six EGT's
> if
>> using the Bing carb??
>>>
>>> I understand that you cannot tune individual cylinders with this
>>> carb
>> set-up. You can only change jet sizes to modify overall mixture
>> or tilt
>
> the
>>
>> carb to favor one side or another. This said, Pete's recommendation
> from
>> Jabiru USA is to still go ahead and drill all six.
>>>
>>> I do not mind the work of drilling the extra four holes. My concern
> is
>> of creating four more potential sources of undercowl heat and carbon
>> monoxide from possible leaks. Maybe this is a non-issue, I don't
>> know.
>> Also I know that more thermocouples increases the chances of a bad
> sensor
>> making you think there is a problem where none exists.
>>>
>>> Can anybody with real world experience of reading all six cylinders
>> chime in with:
>>>
>>> 1. Have you found any evidence where these probes leaked and caused
>> issues.
>>> 2. Did reading all six EGT's tell you something that you would not
> have
>> found out by reading only two.
>>>
>>> Pete, these are the follow-up questions that I did not think to ask
> when
>>
>> I first asked you about this at the FWF seminar last fall.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> --------
>>> David Gallagher
>>> 601 XL, tail and wings completed,
>>> fueslage almost done. Working engine and electrical systems.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159830#159830
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> ------
>> ----
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> ------
> ----
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Do You Need All 6 EGT's?? |
| From: | "DaveG601XL" <david.m.gallagher(at)ge.com> |
OK, you convinced me. I was leaning towards reading all six anyway. My background
is in production aircraft where I do not have every EGT and CHT looking me
in the face. In the case of the 1946 Champ I rent out, there are none. As
Doug said, why not have something else to worry about during cross country trips.
I will use the latest Jabiru recommendation of 120mm down from the face of the
exhaust port.
Thanks,
--------
David Gallagher
601 XL, tail and wings completed,
fueslage almost done. Working engine and electrical systems.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159939#159939
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dredmoody(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Do You Need All 6 EGT's?? |
The key word on the 1946 Champ was "rent".
Dred
---- DaveG601XL wrote:
>
> OK, you convinced me. I was leaning towards reading all six anyway. My background
is in production aircraft where I do not have every EGT and CHT looking
me in the face. In the case of the 1946 Champ I rent out, there are none.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | Do You Need All 6 EGT's?? |
If you have one cylinder start to run lean, for whatever reason, and you
have an electronic engine monitor then you may as well take advantage of it.
It could save you blowing a hole in a piston of a hot cylinder.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
DaveG601XL
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 6:02 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Do You Need All 6 EGT's??
I am still working on my Jabiru 3300/Zenith 601XL FWF and have this to throw
out to you all for opinions?
Do you really need to drill all six exhaust pipes and read six EGT's if
using the Bing carb??
I understand that you cannot tune individual cylinders with this carb
set-up. You can only change jet sizes to modify overall mixture or tilt the
carb to favor one side or another. This said, Pete's recommendation from
Jabiru USA is to still go ahead and drill all six.
I do not mind the work of drilling the extra four holes. My concern is of
creating four more potential sources of undercowl heat and carbon monoxide
from possible leaks. Maybe this is a non-issue, I don't know. Also I know
that more thermocouples increases the chances of a bad sensor making you
think there is a problem where none exists.
Can anybody with real world experience of reading all six cylinders chime in
with:
1. Have you found any evidence where these probes leaked and caused issues.
2. Did reading all six EGT's tell you something that you would not have
found out by reading only two.
Pete, these are the follow-up questions that I did not think to ask when I
first asked you about this at the FWF seminar last fall.
Thanks,
--------
David Gallagher
601 XL, tail and wings completed,
fueslage almost done. Working engine and electrical systems.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159830#159830
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Do You Need All 6 EGT's?? |
In a message dated 1/23/2008 11:51:26 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca writes:
If you have one cylinder start to run lean, for whatever reason, and you
have an electronic engine monitor then you may as well take advantage of it.
It could save you blowing a hole in a piston of a hot cylinder.
Noel
And do what?
Most likely if you have a cylinder that shows a high EGT, the probe has gone
bad, If the manifold has no leaks. AND if you drilled the hole in the
exhaust EXACTLY the same distance as all the others.
You could then swap the probe with another one to see if it is the probe.
Other than that, it just gives you something to fret about.
Keep the mixtures rich rather than lean (remember aircooled engines are also
fuel-cooled) and spend the extra $.50 an hour it costs for a slightly rich
mixture for peace of mind.
I deal with electronic sensors most every day. They are capable of
offering more information than can be processed and are difficult to check for
accuracy. Particularly digital readouts are difficult to asses. EGT probes
suffer a lot of temperature changes.
Again, I advocate worrying about the Cylinder Head Temps on individual
cylinders more than the EGTs on each.
Doug Koenigsberg
**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BobsV35B(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Do You Need All 6 EGT's?? |
Good Afternoon Doug,
You ask: "And do what?"
What to do is not something that can be answered with a single flip statement.
Operating an engine monitor properly requires a considerable amount of study
of the combustion process. The existence of a high EGT is, as you infer,
relatively insignificant, but by looking for the peak EGT points, the adequacy
of
mixture distribution can be evaluated. The peak point can be determined
accurately even when the gauge is very inaccurate!
That knowledge will allow an operator to search for an answer that may
provide better operating conditions. It would be nice to be able to adjust the
fuel
flow to each individual cylinder, but there are a multitude of other
conditions that can lead to an uneven fuel mixture. Burning up a little extra
fuel may
or may not be a financial disadvantage for some folks, but extra fuel is
almost l always a detriment to long life in any engine.
I do take strong exception to your statement that "aircooled engines are
also fuel-cooled"
Extra fuel is often used to aid in placing the peak combustion event at a
point where peak cylinder pressures and peak cylinder temperatures can be held
within reason, but that effect can be used for engines that are cooled in any
manner, not just aircooled engines.
Most aircraft engines use a very rich mixture at high powers. Those same
engines will run cleaner and cooler at cruise powers if they are operated at
mixtures that are more lean than the stoichiometric mixture.
Not only is the engine cooler and less expensive to operate when on the
"lean" side, but it also produces much less carbon monoxide. While none of us ever
expect to have an exhaust leak that will find it's way into our cabin heater,
running lean could save your life if a leak does occur.
I think there are at least two questions here.
1. Is it a good idea to find out what IS happening in each cylinder?
2. Is it a good ideas to operate on the Green (lean) side of best power?
I believe the answer to both questions is a strong and resounding YES!!
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Stearman N3977A
Downers Grove, IL
In a message dated 1/23/2008 1:58:28 PM Central Standard Time,
Kayberg(at)aol.com writes:
And do what?
Most likely if you have a cylinder that shows a high EGT, the probe has gone
bad, If the manifold has no leaks. AND if you drilled the hole in the exhaust
EXACTLY the same distance as all the others.
You could then swap the probe with another one to see if it is the probe.
Other than that, it just gives you something to fret about.
Keep the mixtures rich rather than lean (remember aircooled engines are also
fuel-cooled) and spend the extra $.50 an hour it costs for a slightly rich
mixture for peace of mind.
I deal with electronic sensors most every day. They are capable of offering
more information than can be processed and are difficult to check for
accuracy. Particularly digital readouts are difficult to asses. EGT probes suffer
a lot of temperature changes.
Again, I advocate worrying about the Cylinder Head Temps on individual
cylinders more than the EGTs on each.
Doug Koenigsberg
**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N1BZRich(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Do You Need All 6 EGT's?? |
Hey Bob,
What's the latest news and progress on your granddaughter's Legend Cub?
Do she still plan on using a Jabiru 3300. I think she will like the
performance that it will provide. See you at SNF?
Blue Skies,
Buz
**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BobsV35B(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Do You Need All 6 EGT's?? |
Good Afternoon Buz,
They have it covered and assembled, but the engine (it is a 3300) has not yet
been hung and the wiring has yet to be started. They hope to have it flying
by spring break, but you know the old saying: Ninety percent finished and
ninety percent to go!
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
In a message dated 1/23/2008 3:36:38 PM Central Standard Time,
N1BZRich(at)aol.com writes:
Hey Bob,
What's the latest news and progress on your granddaughter's Legend Cub?
Do she still plan on using a Jabiru 3300. I think she will like the
performance that it will provide. See you at SNF?
Blue Skies,
Buz
**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Do You Need All 6 EGT's?? |
In a message dated 1/23/2008 3:38:05 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
BobsV35B(at)aol.com writes:
Good Afternoon Doug,
You ask: "And do what?"
What to do is not something that can be answered with a single flip
statement.
Operating an engine monitor properly requires a considerable amount of study
of the combustion process. The existence of a high EGT is, as you infer,
relatively insignificant, but by looking for the peak EGT points, the adequacy
of mixture distribution can be evaluated. The peak point can be determined
accurately even when the gauge is very inaccurate!
That knowledge will allow an operator to search for an answer that may
provide better operating conditions. It would be nice to be able to adjust the
fuel flow to each individual cylinder, but there are a multitude of other
conditions that can lead to an uneven fuel mixture. Burning up a little extra
fuel
may or may not be a financial disadvantage for some folks, but extra fuel is
almost l always a detriment to long life in any engine.
I do take strong exception to your statement that "aircooled engines are
also fuel-cooled"
Extra fuel is often used to aid in placing the peak combustion event at a
point where peak cylinder pressures and peak cylinder temperatures can be held
within reason, but that effect can be used for engines that are cooled in any
manner, not just aircooled engines.
Most aircraft engines use a very rich mixture at high powers. Those same
engines will run cleaner and cooler at cruise powers if they are operated at
mixtures that are more lean than the stoichiometric mixture.
Not only is the engine cooler and less expensive to operate when on the
"lean" side, but it also produces much less carbon monoxide. While none of us
ever expect to have an exhaust leak that will find it's way into our cabin
heater, running lean could save your life if a leak does occur.
I think there are at least two questions here.
1. Is it a good idea to find out what IS happening in each cylinder?
2. Is it a good ideas to operate on the Green (lean) side of best power?
I believe the answer to both questions is a strong and resounding YES!!
I do plead guilty to being flip. But I think you missed my point.
With a single carb for 6 cylinders, that is altitude compensating not
mechanically leanable from the cockpit, just what options does the worried pilot
have?
True you can get some indication of what is happening in each cylinder, IF
the sensors are correctly placed and monitored, IF you have both EGT and CHT
probes , you MAY have a means of understanding what MAY be happening. That
takes some resounding off the yes to question one.
While it may be a good idea to operate on the lean side of peak, just how do
you do that when you have little control over it? The carb supplied with
the Jab 3300 can be tweeked to run lean at a particular altitude, particular
load and particular RPM. But it will make up its own mind at all other
throttle settings, density altitude and load. That takes a great deal of shine
off
the resounding Yes to question 2.
I thought that fuel cooling was well known in the aviation engine business,
perhaps I am wrong. I remember reading a couple articles about it over the
years. But it is particularly helpful in high power settings, such as takeoff
and climb....which is why many engines do run rich at those settings. Not
so helpful at cruise, I agree.
I do agree that knowing Peak EGT would be very helpful IF you could control
the mixture.
No quibles about carbon monoxide being less at lean mixtures. However, a
tight cockpit is a requrement if you are going to get gassed.....and requires
use of a cabin heater with access to combustion products.
Doug Koenigsberg
**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Murphy <tigermoth3(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Egt probes - cht probes |
At that very point myself. Decided the opportunity to monitor all six EGT's as
a diagnostic tool will make the install worthwhile.
Now, my question : Installing the six probes under the plugs for the CHT. How can
I fit the probe ring under the plug & still get a plug socket on the plug well
enough to seat plug/probe ring? what am I missing here?
Bill Murphy
Tiger Moth 31 (building)
_________________________________________________________________
Shed those extra pounds with MSN and The Biggest Loser!
http://biggestloser.msn.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Egt probes - cht probes |
In a message dated 1/23/2008 7:17:58 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
tigermoth3(at)hotmail.com writes:
Now, my question : Installing the six probes under the plugs for the CHT.
How can I fit the probe ring under the plug & still get a plug socket on the
plug well enough to seat plug/probe ring? what am I missing here?
Bill Murphy
Grind a part of the cooling fin off that blocks it at the plug. Will
require removing a piece the size of your fingernail
doug
**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steve" <notsew_evets(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Egt probes - cht probes |
I had the same problem.
Jabiru said to grind off some of the fins on the head. I did not want to
grind off anything on my $21K package.
Jabiru Jim had me purchase Champion spark plugs # 905. These have a small
socket size and work perfectly..
SW
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Murphy" <tigermoth3(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 5:14 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Egt probes - cht probes
>
>
>
> At that very point myself. Decided the opportunity to monitor all six
> EGT's as a diagnostic tool will make the install worthwhile.
>
> Now, my question : Installing the six probes under the plugs for the CHT.
> How can I fit the probe ring under the plug & still get a plug socket on
> the plug well enough to seat plug/probe ring? what am I missing here?
>
> Bill Murphy
> Tiger Moth 31 (building)
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Shed those extra pounds with MSN and The Biggest Loser!
> http://biggestloser.msn.com/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Pickford" <kpickford(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Egt probes - cht probes |
Have heard that you can change to a round terminal and fit it under a
head stud. Apparently it reads a few degrees cooler, but saves oil leaks
etc from plug. Haven't tried it, but sounds like a good idea.
KP
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of steve
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2008 2:03 PM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Egt probes - cht probes
I had the same problem.
Jabiru said to grind off some of the fins on the head. I did not want
to
grind off anything on my $21K package.
Jabiru Jim had me purchase Champion spark plugs # 905. These have a
small
socket size and work perfectly..
SW
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Murphy" <tigermoth3(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 5:14 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Egt probes - cht probes
>
>
>
> At that very point myself. Decided the opportunity to monitor all six
> EGT's as a diagnostic tool will make the install worthwhile.
>
> Now, my question : Installing the six probes under the plugs for the
CHT.
> How can I fit the probe ring under the plug & still get a plug socket
on
> the plug well enough to seat plug/probe ring? what am I missing here?
>
> Bill Murphy
> Tiger Moth 31 (building)
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Shed those extra pounds with MSN and The Biggest Loser!
> http://biggestloser.msn.com/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Mag failure at mag-check |
I had another "mag-out" during a recent mag-check the other day. I
said screw it, and flew it home with only one mag firing. (No point
in getting into the wisdom of this move...I know it was stupid) The
point is, has anybody else had any problems with losing a mag, or are
you all changing the rotors and caps at the suggested hourly
intervals, and gluing the rotors on?
The second question is, what has been the condition of the rotors
that you've removed? Are the rotors all wallowed out where they mount
to the distributor shaft?
I checked the rotor in the other mag and found it exactly as I had
installed it many (can't recall how many) hours ago. So I now know
that my rotor installation procedure is good, and both rotors now
have been installed using the same procedure.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/470+ hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | Mag failure at mag-check |
Lynn:
Don't you keep a technical log on your plane?? I keep one on my plane
similar to the same logs that are kept on certified units, so I can tell how
long components have been in service. I also keep the engine log. Once I
get the 912 running well I'll probably sell the 582 FWF complete with the
engine logs which describe all the maintenance on the engine since I've
owned it.
Sounds like a lot of paper work but really it's not too much and I does tell
me what I've done and to one extent or the other where to look for problems
as the arise.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lynn
Matteson
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 7:54 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Mag failure at mag-check
I had another "mag-out" during a recent mag-check the other day. I
said screw it, and flew it home with only one mag firing. (No point
in getting into the wisdom of this move...I know it was stupid) The
point is, has anybody else had any problems with losing a mag, or are
you all changing the rotors and caps at the suggested hourly
intervals, and gluing the rotors on?
The second question is, what has been the condition of the rotors
that you've removed? Are the rotors all wallowed out where they mount
to the distributor shaft?
I checked the rotor in the other mag and found it exactly as I had
installed it many (can't recall how many) hours ago. So I now know
that my rotor installation procedure is good, and both rotors now
have been installed using the same procedure.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/470+ hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N1BZRich(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Mag failure at mag-check |
Lynn,
I have about 420 hours on my 3300 in the last 25 months and no mag
issues at all (in fact no issues of any kind). I replaced the caps and rotors
at
250 hours not because of problems, but because the engine manual calls for
them to be replaced at 200 hours. When removed, both caps and rotors were
working great and showed no abnormal wear at the 250 hour point. I feel they
could have gone to 500 hours with no problems, but I believe in preventative
maintenance. I change oil and filter at 25 to 30 hours and plugs at 100 hours.
As you know, all these replaceable parts on the Jabiru are inexpensive and
readily available at auto parts stores.
Blue Skies,
Buz Rich
**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mag failure at mag-check |
I keep one, but just didn't have it here when I got the urge to write
about the recent failure. I'll get the numbers tomorrow, maybe, and
post them then.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/470+ hrs
On Feb 5, 2008, at 7:31 PM, Noel Loveys wrote:
>
>
> Lynn:
> Don't you keep a technical log on your plane?? I keep one on my plane
> similar to the same logs that are kept on certified units, so I can
> tell how
> long components have been in service. I also keep the engine log.
> Once I
> get the 912 running well I'll probably sell the 582 FWF complete
> with the
> engine logs which describe all the maintenance on the engine since
> I've
> owned it.
>
> Sounds like a lot of paper work but really it's not too much and I
> does tell
> me what I've done and to one extent or the other where to look for
> problems
> as the arise.
>
> Noel
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Lynn
> Matteson
> Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 7:54 PM
> To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Mag failure at mag-check
>
>
>
> I had another "mag-out" during a recent mag-check the other day. I
> said screw it, and flew it home with only one mag firing. (No point
> in getting into the wisdom of this move...I know it was stupid) The
> point is, has anybody else had any problems with losing a mag, or are
> you all changing the rotors and caps at the suggested hourly
> intervals, and gluing the rotors on?
>
> The second question is, what has been the condition of the rotors
> that you've removed? Are the rotors all wallowed out where they mount
> to the distributor shaft?
>
> I checked the rotor in the other mag and found it exactly as I had
> installed it many (can't recall how many) hours ago. So I now know
> that my rotor installation procedure is good, and both rotors now
> have been installed using the same procedure.
>
> Lynn Matteson
> Grass Lake, Michigan
> Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
> flying w/470+ hrs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mag failure at mag-check |
Thanks, Buz-
I changed my first set of caps and rotors at 237 hours, and both
rotors were loose. I didn't glue the replacements (Bosch) on, and in
time, both became loose. I've finally found replacement parts that
I'm happy with...Standard Brand caps, and Daiichi rotors from Car
Quest. I've now got the set-up I'm happy with, and time will tell if
the epoxy is the secret to holding the rotors on, and allow the
rotors to "live out their lives" like they should. I'm not cheap,
it's just a pain in the rump to change them with the limited room
that I have.
Personally, I feel that only 200 hours for rotors is way out of
line...they should last at least twice that, if not more. I follow
the 25-30 hrs for oil changes and filters, though.
Lynn Matteson
Grass Lake, Michigan
Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
flying w/470+ hrs
On Feb 5, 2008, at 8:17 PM, N1BZRich(at)aol.com wrote:
> Lynn,
> I have about 420 hours on my 3300 in the last 25 months and no
> mag issues at all (in fact no issues of any kind). I replaced the
> caps and rotors at 250 hours not because of problems, but because
> the engine manual calls for them to be replaced at 200 hours. When
> removed, both caps and rotors were working great and showed no
> abnormal wear at the 250 hour point. I feel they could have gone
> to 500 hours with no problems, but I believe in preventative
> maintenance. I change oil and filter at 25 to 30 hours and plugs
> at 100 hours. As you know, all these replaceable parts on the
> Jabiru are inexpensive and readily available at auto parts stores.
> Blue Skies,
> Buz Rich
>
>
> Who's never won? Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL
> Music.
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List _-
> www.matronics.com/contribution _-
> ===========================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Mag failure at mag-check |
| From: | "James, Clive R" <clive.james(at)uk.bp.com> |
The 2200 and 3300 rotor arms are different parts. The 3300 is more
upright looking, the 2200 a lot flatter.
I'm not sure about rotor arm issues with 3300s maybe other 3300 owners
can let us know?
I have experienced the same issues as Lynn, lost a mag during pre take
off check last month on my Jabiru SP but was also close to home so flew
back on the other one (the airfield I was at was Baltic), I used to fly
a single ignition Rotax and it was only 15 minutes....
The problem on inspection was indeed the rotor arm and to be frank it
had been advertising it'self as it did last time one got loose on me.
Whilst in the cruise every now and again there is a barely peceptible
hesitation in the smooth running. Problem is it's several hundred hours
between when I've had it so I don't readily recognise it phenomena (the
October 18, 2007 - February 06, 2008
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