Kitfox-Archive.digest.vol-ef

December 01, 2006 - December 07, 2006



      Most of us around Houston have used the Carquest 
      85056 (if I remember the number right) for the last 
      10 years and for nearly a couple thousand hrs 
      combined on our 912s with no problems.  What's the 
      beef?
      
      --- Original Message ---
From: johnciolino(at)comcast.net
list(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Filters for 912UL
>Jimmy, > >I would agree there is no reluctance to discuss oil filters but there is certainly a lack of information. It aggravates my penny-pinching soul to pay as much as asked for a Rotax filter when an appropriate auto filter will do the same thing. I tried to find the specs for the Rotax filer but had no luck. If you have info please post we all need it--even if we decide not to use it. > >John Ciolino >Movel IV-1200 >N9294Y > >-------------- Original message -------------- >From: "Jimmie Blackwell" > >In recent days I have done some research on oil filters and in particular Rotax filters versus Carquest and Wix filters. The results are rather revealing. > >I think that all Kitfoxers should know these results, however there seems to be a reluctance to discuss oil filters on the list, so I will not publish the results of my research on the list. Guess I am to dumb to understand why very few on the list want to discuss this important topic. > >I will be happy to provide the information to anyone that contacts me directly on line or on my cell phone 512 695-6627. > >Jimmie > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: type of fuel
From: "wannafly" <wannaflyfox4(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Dec 01, 2006
I have an EA81 subaru engine and use auto fuel. I want to do a long cross country and it is not always possible to get auto fuel at all the stops. Any experience with changing to aviation fuel or mixing the differant types? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=78504#78504 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kathy & Dick Toomey" <llltoome(at)gvtel.com>
Subject: Subaru EA-81
Date: Dec 01, 2006
I am curious to what size radiators are being used (Square inches) with success for proper cooling on a Subaru EA-81 engine with carburetors. Also is an oil cooler necessary? Thanks Dick ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 01, 2006
From: GAry Olson <n113gb(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Beacon? Strobe?
Does anybody know what are the intensity minimums are for position/anti-collision lights per the FAA? ----- Original Message ---- From: Bill Hammond <kitfox(at)itsys3.com> Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 10:51:10 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Beacon? Strobe? I went with the LEDs and constructed "bulbs" which fit into the unmodified Whelen sockets. Sources, pictures, and specifics are on my web site (about halfway down the page) at: www.itsys3.com/kitfox/discover.shtml Bill Hammond Series 6 N913KF Parker, Colorado kirk hull wrote: > I had the same feeling and gutted the fixture and made a micarda insert > that holds a 20 watt halogen bulb from the auto parts store ($1.50). > The actual wheelen parts came from a junk pile at the local shop. > LEDs would work great inside this type of fixture as they do not but > out as much heat. Where are you getting your LEDs and how big are they? > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Billingsley > Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 7:26 PM > To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Beacon? Strobe? > > > > Kirk, > > Thanks for the idea. I just can't stand the thought of paying Whellen > $300 for a friken lightbulb. I found a source for high intensity LED's > and plan to see what I can develop. > > Dan > > kirk hull wrote: > > I made mine out of a tail light assembly with a wing tip lens and a > heavy-duty turn signal flasher. > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan > Billingsley > Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 7:15 AM > To: kitfox-list > Subject: Kitfox-List: Beacon? Strobe? > > > > Has anyone found or know of a low profile beacon that could be fit > to the top of the vertical Stab? What are others doing for this? I > have a 912s, so the Amp draw needs to be kept low. > > Still Building > > Thanks, > > Dan B > > > > > > www.aeroelectric.com > > www.kitlog.com > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List > > > > > > > > > > www.aeroelectric.com > > www.kitlog.com <http://www.kitlog.com> > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Beacon? Strobe?
Date: Dec 01, 2006
Gary, That's a good question. Same question I tried to figure out about 8 years ago. I'm under the impression that the Aero Flash units did/do not meet the minimums for FAA requirements. Maybe your question will have better luck this time. Sorry, I'm still not sure. The only good part is, an FAA inspector probably doesn't know either. Don Smythe ----- Original Message ----- From: "GAry Olson" <n113gb(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 6:12 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Beacon? Strobe? Does anybody know what are the intensity minimums are for position/anti-collision lights per the FAA? ----- Original Message ---- From: Bill Hammond <kitfox(at)itsys3.com> Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 10:51:10 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Beacon? Strobe? I went with the LEDs and constructed "bulbs" which fit into the unmodified Whelen sockets. Sources, pictures, and specifics are on my web site (about halfway down the page) at: www.itsys3.com/kitfox/discover.shtml Bill Hammond Series 6 N913KF Parker, Colorado kirk hull wrote: > I had the same feeling and gutted the fixture and made a micarda insert > that holds a 20 watt halogen bulb from the auto parts store ($1.50). > The actual wheelen parts came from a junk pile at the local shop. > LEDs would work great inside this type of fixture as they do not but > out as much heat. Where are you getting your LEDs and how big are they? > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan > Billingsley > Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 7:26 PM > To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Beacon? Strobe? > > > Kirk, > > Thanks for the idea. I just can't stand the thought of paying Whellen > $300 for a friken lightbulb. I found a source for high intensity LED's > and plan to see what I can develop. > > Dan > > kirk hull wrote: > > I made mine out of a tail light assembly with a wing tip lens and a > heavy-duty turn signal flasher. > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan > Billingsley > Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 7:15 AM > To: kitfox-list > Subject: Kitfox-List: Beacon? Strobe? > > > Has anyone found or know of a low profile beacon that could be fit > to the top of the vertical Stab? What are others doing for this? I > have a 912s, so the Amp draw needs to be kept low. > > Still Building > > Thanks, > > Dan B > > > www.aeroelectric.com > > www.kitlog.com > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List > > > www.aeroelectric.com > > www.kitlog.com <http://www.kitlog.com> > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 01, 2006
From: JOHN May <jpm7940(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Oil Filters for 912UL
Jimmie, This is John May iin Kalamazoo Michigan. I have a Model IV-1200 Speedster with a Rotax 912UL (approx 735 Hours). I am the second owner ( I bought it at 500 Hours). The original owner/builder told me to use the NAPA gold #1056 spin on oil filter. Every other oil change I have the oil analysis done by Blackstone. The oil analysis up to this point has always been in line with what is to be expected for its age. I want to do what is best for the engine so I am interested in what you have found out. John May Jimmie Blackwell wrote: In recent days I have done some research on oil filters and in particular Rotax filters versus Carquest and Wix filters. The results are rather revealing. I think that all Kitfoxers should know these results, however there seems to be a reluctance to discuss oil filters on the list, so I will not publish the results of my research on the list. Guess I am to dumb to understand why very few on the list want to discuss this important topic. I will be happy to provide the information to anyone that contacts me directly on line or on my cell phone 512 695-6627. Jimmie ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "kirk hull" <kirkhull(at)kc.rr.com>
Subject: Beacon? Strobe?
Date: Dec 01, 2006
There is an AC out dealing with that. I will try to find it -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don Smythe Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 5:31 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Beacon? Strobe? Gary, That's a good question. Same question I tried to figure out about 8 years ago. I'm under the impression that the Aero Flash units did/do not meet the minimums for FAA requirements. Maybe your question will have better luck this time. Sorry, I'm still not sure. The only good part is, an FAA inspector probably doesn't know either. Don Smythe ----- Original Message ----- From: "GAry Olson" <n113gb(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 6:12 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Beacon? Strobe? Does anybody know what are the intensity minimums are for position/anti-collision lights per the FAA? ----- Original Message ---- From: Bill Hammond <kitfox(at)itsys3.com> Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 10:51:10 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Beacon? Strobe? I went with the LEDs and constructed "bulbs" which fit into the unmodified Whelen sockets. Sources, pictures, and specifics are on my web site (about halfway down the page) at: www.itsys3.com/kitfox/discover.shtml Bill Hammond Series 6 N913KF Parker, Colorado kirk hull wrote: > I had the same feeling and gutted the fixture and made a micarda insert > that holds a 20 watt halogen bulb from the auto parts store ($1.50). > The actual wheelen parts came from a junk pile at the local shop. > LED?s would work great inside this type of fixture as they do not but > out as much heat. Where are you getting your LED?s and how big are they? > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan > Billingsley > Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 7:26 PM > To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Beacon? Strobe? > > > Kirk, > > Thanks for the idea. I just can't stand the thought of paying Whellen > $300 for a friken lightbulb. I found a source for high intensity LED's > and plan to see what I can develop. > > Dan > > kirk hull wrote: > > I made mine out of a tail light assembly with a wing tip lens and a > heavy-duty turn signal flasher. > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan > Billingsley > Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 7:15 AM > To: kitfox-list > Subject: Kitfox-List: Beacon? Strobe? > > > Has anyone found or know of a low profile beacon that could be fit > to the top of the vertical Stab? What are others doing for this? I > have a 912s, so the Amp draw needs to be kept low. > > Still Building > > Thanks, > > Dan B > > > www.aeroelectric.com > > www.kitlog.com > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List > > > www.aeroelectric.com > > www.kitlog.com <http://www.kitlog.com> > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "kirk hull" <kirkhull(at)kc.rr.com>
Subject: type of fuel
Date: Dec 01, 2006
I have run 100LL in many cars ( with no cats ) and also in my fox with a Subaru. No problems with any of the engines -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of wannafly Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 4:14 PM Subject: Kitfox-List: type of fuel I have an EA81 subaru engine and use auto fuel. I want to do a long cross country and it is not always possible to get auto fuel at all the stops. Any experience with changing to aviation fuel or mixing the differant types? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=78504#78504 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "kirk hull" <kirkhull(at)kc.rr.com>
Subject: Beacon? Strobe?
Date: Dec 01, 2006
The info is in AC 20-30B that can be found on FAA.GOV under advisory circulars or I have a 648 KB PDF that I can email if needed -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of GAry Olson Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 5:13 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Beacon? Strobe? Does anybody know what are the intensity minimums are for position/anti-collision lights per the FAA? ----- Original Message ---- From: Bill Hammond <kitfox(at)itsys3.com> Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 10:51:10 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Beacon? Strobe? I went with the LEDs and constructed "bulbs" which fit into the unmodified Whelen sockets. Sources, pictures, and specifics are on my web site (about halfway down the page) at: www.itsys3.com/kitfox/discover.shtml Bill Hammond Series 6 N913KF Parker, Colorado kirk hull wrote: > I had the same feeling and gutted the fixture and made a micarda insert > that holds a 20 watt halogen bulb from the auto parts store ($1.50). > The actual wheelen parts came from a junk pile at the local shop. > LED?s would work great inside this type of fixture as they do not but > out as much heat. Where are you getting your LED?s and how big are they? > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Billingsley > Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 7:26 PM > To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Beacon? Strobe? > > > > Kirk, > > Thanks for the idea. I just can't stand the thought of paying Whellen > $300 for a friken lightbulb. I found a source for high intensity LED's > and plan to see what I can develop. > > Dan > > kirk hull wrote: > > I made mine out of a tail light assembly with a wing tip lens and a > heavy-duty turn signal flasher. > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan > Billingsley > Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 7:15 AM > To: kitfox-list > Subject: Kitfox-List: Beacon? Strobe? > > > > Has anyone found or know of a low profile beacon that could be fit > to the top of the vertical Stab? What are others doing for this? I > have a 912s, so the Amp draw needs to be kept low. > > Still Building > > Thanks, > > Dan B > > > > > > www.aeroelectric.com > > www.kitlog.com > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List > > > > > > > > > > www.aeroelectric.com > > www.kitlog.com <http://www.kitlog.com> > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 01, 2006
From: PWilson <pwmac(at)sisna.com>
Subject: Re: Beacon? Strobe?
Don't have the info you all want but a search of the aeroelectric archives no doubt will yield the data. They had a long thread on the subject. Paul ============ At 03:31 PM 12/1/2006, you wrote: > >Gary, > That's a good question. Same question I > tried to figure out about 8 years ago. I'm > under the impression that the Aero Flash units > did/do not meet the minimums for FAA > requirements. Maybe your question will have > better luck this time. Sorry, I'm still not > sure. The only good part is, an FAA inspector probably doesn't know either. > >Don Smythe > > >----- Original Message ----- From: "GAry Olson" <n113gb(at)yahoo.com> >To: >Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 6:12 PM >Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Beacon? Strobe? > > >Does anybody know what are the intensity >minimums are for position/anti-collision lights per the FAA? > >----- Original Message ---- >From: Bill Hammond <kitfox(at)itsys3.com> >To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com >Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 10:51:10 PM >Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Beacon? Strobe? > > >I went with the LEDs and constructed "bulbs" which fit into the >unmodified Whelen sockets. Sources, pictures, and specifics are >on my web site (about halfway down the page) at: > >www.itsys3.com/kitfox/discover.shtml > >Bill Hammond >Series 6 N913KF >Parker, Colorado > >kirk hull wrote: >>I had the same feeling and gutted the fixture and made a micarda insert >>that holds a 20 watt halogen bulb from the auto parts store ($1.50). >> The actual wheelen parts came from a junk pile at the local shop. >> LEDs would work great inside this type of fixture as they do not but >>out as much heat. Where are you getting your LEDs and how big are they? >> >> >> >>------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> >>From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com >>[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Billingsley >>Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 7:26 PM >>To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com >>Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Beacon? Strobe? >> >> >> >>Kirk, >> >>Thanks for the idea. I just can't stand the thought of paying Whellen >>$300 for a friken lightbulb. I found a source for high intensity LED's >>and plan to see what I can develop. >> >>Dan >> >>kirk hull wrote: >> >> I made mine out of a tail light assembly with a wing tip lens and a >> heavy-duty turn signal flasher. >> >> >> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> >> From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan >> Billingsley >> Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 7:15 AM >> To: kitfox-list >> Subject: Kitfox-List: Beacon? Strobe? >> >> >> >> Has anyone found or know of a low profile beacon that could be fit >> to the top of the vertical Stab? What are others doing for this? I >> have a 912s, so the Amp draw needs to be kept low. >> >> Still Building >> >> Thanks, >> >> Dan B >> >> >> >> >> >>www.aeroelectric.com >> >>www.kitlog.com >> >>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >>www.aeroelectric.com >> >>www.kitlog.com <http://www.kitlog.com> >> >>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "ron schick" <roncarolnikko(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Beacon? Strobe?
Date: Dec 01, 2006
Deke I'll post an after picture. The funnel sits pointing downward as if in use. the flat top is where the base of the light attaches. The spout and part of the sides get cut off to form a channel which drops over the vertical stab. Place plastic barrier over stab, then place funnel over, then fill with epoxy. Remove, sand paint, walla. Sorry I don't have a close up, but it flares to a flat spot like a Cessna. Ron NB Ore >From: "Fox5flyer" <fox5flyer@i-star.com> >Reply-To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Beacon? Strobe? >Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2006 06:37:06 -0500 > > >Ron, as much as I tried, I can't get my feeble brain to visualize what you >described for a mounting. Can you try it from a different angle? >Thanks, >Deke > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "ron schick" <roncarolnikko(at)hotmail.com> >To: >Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 9:28 PM >Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Beacon? Strobe? > > > > > > > Dan go to Chief Aircraft or Aircraft Spruce. There are self contained > > beacons for 50- 125.00. I found one on fleabay and mounted it on my > > vertical stab. I used a plastic funnel cut to fit down over the stab, >then > > poured full of epoxy and chopped glass for a nice fairing/ mount. The >low > > profile thing is hard to achieve without needing a belly mount also. >Ron >NB > > Ore > > > > > > >From: Dan Billingsley <dan(at)azshowersolutions.com> > > >Reply-To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com > > >To: kitfox-list > > >Subject: Kitfox-List: Beacon? Strobe? > > >Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2006 05:15:25 -0800 (PST) > > > > > >Has anyone found or know of a low profile beacon that could be fit to >the > > >top of the vertical Stab? What are others doing for this? I have a >912s, >so > > >the Amp draw needs to be kept low. > > > Still Building > > > Thanks, > > > Dan B > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > All-in-one security and maintenance for your PC. Get a free 90-day >trial! > > > > > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ Get FREE company branded e-mail accounts and business Web site from Microsoft Office Live ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 01, 2006
From: "Margaret Hastedt" <hastedt(at)iodp.tamu.edu>
Subject: Re: type of fuel
I haven't used anyting BUT avgas in my EA-81 engine. No problems to date, but with only 45 hours of flight time it's not very conclusive. I haven't been using any lead scavenging products either. To be continued... Margaret H. Classic IV N3076U >>> wannaflyfox4(at)hotmail.com 12/1/2006 4:14 PM >>> I have an EA81 subaru engine and use auto fuel. I want to do a long cross country and it is not always possible to get auto fuel at all the stops. Any experience with changing to aviation fuel or mixing the differant types? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=78504#78504 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Subaru EA-81
From: "avtar412" <janderson412(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Dec 02, 2006
I have a water to oil cooler and 2 tubes through the sump with good airflow and have no trouble with cooling. Turbo as well. Radiator, I started with NSI brass unit but had to go to a purpose built aluminum unit and cools well now. 750mm x 250 x 80 deep. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=78597#78597 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: type of fuel
From: "avtar412" <janderson412(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Dec 02, 2006
Me too, avgas in car engines in the past. So long as the engine runs at operating temp ok. Don't use fully synthetic oil. I use a mixture of Avgas and motor spirit in my EA81 and no bothers. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=78598#78598 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 02, 2006
From: Dan Billingsley <dan(at)azshowersolutions.com>
Subject: Beacon? Strobe?
Kirk, I am getting my LED's from http://www.superbrightleds.com/led_prods.htm There are some good places on the web that help with how-to applications such as this one that has a calculator to determine the resistors used http://metku.net/index.html?sect=view&n=1&path=mods/ledcalc/index_eng I have ordered several LED's to experiment with on small circuit boards. Will let all know how it goes. Dan kirk hull wrote: v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} .shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);} st1\:*{behavior:url(#default#ieooui) } I had the same feeling and gutted the fixture and made a micarda insert that holds a 20 w halogen bulb from the auto parts store ($1.50). The actual wheelen parts came from a junk pile at the local shop. LEDs would work great inside this type of fixture as they do not but out as much heat. Where are you getting your LEDs and how big are they? --------------------------------- From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Billingsley Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 7:26 PM Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Beacon? Strobe? Kirk, Thanks for the idea. I just can't stand the thought of paying Whellen $300 for a friken lightbulb. I found a source for high intensity LED's and plan to see what I can develop. Dan kirk hull wrote: I made mine out of a tail light assembly with a wing tip lens and a heavy-duty turn signal flasher. --------------------------------- From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Billingsley Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 7:15 AM Subject: Kitfox-List: Beacon? Strobe? Has anyone found or know of a low profile beacon that could be fit to the top of the vertical Stab? What are others doing for this? I have a 912s, so the Amp draw needs to be kept low. Still Building Thanks, Dan B www.aeroelectric.com www.buildersbooks.com www.kitlog.com www.homebuilthelp.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List www.aeroelectric.com www.buildersbooks.com www.kitlog.com www.homebuilthelp.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Peter Graichen" <n10pg(at)neo.rr.com>
Subject: EA-81 fuel
Date: Dec 02, 2006
I have used nothing but 100LL av-fuel in over 1000 hrs of operation in my NSI EA-81 Subaru without any problems. Peter Graichen http:/home.neo.rr.com/n10pg/kitfox.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "kirk hull" <kirkhull(at)kc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: type of fuel
Date: Dec 02, 2006
What is the problem with synthetic oil? -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of avtar412 Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 2:10 AM Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: type of fuel Me too, avgas in car engines in the past. So long as the engine runs at operating temp ok. Don't use fully synthetic oil. I use a mixture of Avgas and motor spirit in my EA81 and no bothers. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=78598#78598 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Andrew Matthaey" <spaghettiohead(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: type of fuel
Date: Dec 02, 2006
I've heard the Subaru's and VW's really, really don't like being run in engines that also burn AvGas?? I know Mark here on the list saw some nasty side effects of using the two...promptly switched back to mineral-based. Andrew CFI/CFII/MEI ERJ-145 Training KF3 >From: "kirk hull" <kirkhull(at)kc.rr.com> >Reply-To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Re: type of fuel >Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2006 09:14:54 -0600 > > >What is the problem with synthetic oil? > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of avtar412 >Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 2:10 AM >To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: type of fuel > > >Me too, avgas in car engines in the past. So long as the engine runs at >operating temp ok. Don't use fully synthetic oil. >I use a mixture of Avgas and motor spirit in my EA81 and no bothers. > > >Read this topic online here: > >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=78598#78598 > > _________________________________________________________________ Get FREE company branded e-mail accounts and business Web site from Microsoft Office Live ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Clem Nichols" <cnichols(at)scrtc.com>
Subject: Re: EA-81 fuel
Date: Dec 02, 2006
Peter: Did you use any type of lead scavinger? Clem Nichols ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Graichen" <n10pg(at)neo.rr.com> Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 8:48 AM Subject: Kitfox-List: EA-81 fuel > > I have used nothing but 100LL av-fuel in over 1000 hrs of operation in my > NSI EA-81 Subaru without any problems. > Peter Graichen > http:/home.neo.rr.com/n10pg/kitfox.htm > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 02, 2006
From: Jerry Liles <wliles(at)bayou.com>
Subject: Re: Failure Point
Avid's, at least from the B model on, use one large size rod end on the rear strut of the left wing to allow trimming. No other rod ends are used in the wing or tail struts. Bolts in shear take the loads. Kitfox had some problems with rod ends failing in tail struts and finally went to beefier rod ends or simple struts for the tail. Using straight struts in the Avid left little room for error but resulted in a stronger wing and tail. Jerry Liles Rex Shaw wrote: > Where did it fail ? > The carry throguh tube would be one of the weakest links. > Rod ends would be the next weakest link I think. If you look at the > Avids > they do not use rod ends. > Dave > > Dave, > I'm only going on memory here so please no one take it for > gospel but I seem to remember the weakest link is the rod end but also > here in Australia anyway we have Skyfox's that are rough copies of > Kitfox's. These are apparently failing at the carry through tube and > there is an AD out for that. I understand they have a weaker tube, > maybe wall thickness not sure ! > Also took my interest to read the Avid does not use rod ends. What > do they do ? I assume just a bolt ! Is it in shear ? > I think that loading the wing to failure point is on a video copied > by Grant Fluent on this list. I guess anyone that wants a copy could > first check with Grant that this is on the Video then buy a copy from > him. I remember his price was extremely reasonable and there was a lot > of interesting stuff on the DVD copy like loops and rolls in a Kitfox. > > Rex. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca>
Subject: EA-81 fuel
Date: Dec 02, 2006
I think I know what a lead scavenger is but how does it work..... Physically or chemically??? Noel > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of > Clem Nichols > Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 3:12 PM > To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: EA-81 fuel > > > > Peter: > > Did you use any type of lead scavinger? > > Clem Nichols > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Peter Graichen" <n10pg(at)neo.rr.com> > To: "Kitfox List" > Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 8:48 AM > Subject: Kitfox-List: EA-81 fuel > > > > > > > I have used nothing but 100LL av-fuel in over 1000 hrs of > operation in my > > NSI EA-81 Subaru without any problems. > > Peter Graichen > > http:/home.neo.rr.com/n10pg/kitfox.htm > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Failure Point
Date: Dec 02, 2006
Jerry, Interesting. I still have the 3/16 rod ends on the foreward horizontal stab strut and it is part of my preflight check. Regarding stronger wings. I wonder if this is a plus, as the Kifox design with more "room for error" is a proven design as there have been no structural failures. If after about 15 years of uneventful use, would there be a reason to change the design? Lowell ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerry Liles" <wliles(at)bayou.com> Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 11:25 AM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point > > Avid's, at least from the B model on, use one large size rod end on the > rear strut of the left wing to allow trimming. No other rod ends are used > in the wing or tail struts. Bolts in shear take the loads. Kitfox had > some problems with rod ends failing in tail struts and finally went to > beefier rod ends or simple struts for the tail. Using straight struts in > the Avid left little room for error but resulted in a stronger wing and > tail. > Jerry Liles > > Rex Shaw wrote: > >> Where did it fail ? >> The carry throguh tube would be one of the weakest links. >> Rod ends would be the next weakest link I think. If you look at the >> Avids >> they do not use rod ends. >> Dave >> Dave, >> I'm only going on memory here so please no one take it for >> gospel but I seem to remember the weakest link is the rod end but also >> here in Australia anyway we have Skyfox's that are rough copies of >> Kitfox's. These are apparently failing at the carry through tube and >> there is an AD out for that. I understand they have a weaker tube, maybe >> wall thickness not sure ! >> Also took my interest to read the Avid does not use rod ends. What do >> they do ? I assume just a bolt ! Is it in shear ? >> I think that loading the wing to failure point is on a video copied by >> Grant Fluent on this list. I guess anyone that wants a copy could first >> check with Grant that this is on the Video then buy a copy from him. I >> remember his price was extremely reasonable and there was a lot of >> interesting stuff on the DVD copy like loops and rolls in a Kitfox. >> >> Rex. >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dave" <dave(at)cfisher.com>
Subject: Re: Failure Point
Date: Dec 02, 2006
Lowell, I agree on the horiz stab rod ends being ok. I think alot of the problem might have been from the pilot pulling on it rather than the grab handle ? As far as the wings, I agree they seem strong but the idea for 2 rod ends on the strut if probably to make up for builing errors if any as well as adjustment. . I have not heard of them coming apart but I have broken them on other applications. They are tiny compared to GA aircraft. That being said, has ther ever been an in flight breakup of a Kitfox ? Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net> Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 5:33 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point > > Jerry, > > Interesting. > > I still have the 3/16 rod ends on the foreward horizontal stab strut and > it is part of my preflight check. > > Regarding stronger wings. I wonder if this is a plus, as the Kifox design > with more "room for error" is a proven design as there have been no > structural failures. If after about 15 years of uneventful use, would > there be a reason to change the design? > > Lowell > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jerry Liles" <wliles(at)bayou.com> > To: > Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 11:25 AM > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point > > >> >> Avid's, at least from the B model on, use one large size rod end on the >> rear strut of the left wing to allow trimming. No other rod ends are used >> in the wing or tail struts. Bolts in shear take the loads. Kitfox had >> some problems with rod ends failing in tail struts and finally went to >> beefier rod ends or simple struts for the tail. Using straight struts in >> the Avid left little room for error but resulted in a stronger wing and >> tail. >> Jerry Liles >> >> Rex Shaw wrote: >> >>> Where did it fail ? >>> The carry throguh tube would be one of the weakest links. >>> Rod ends would be the next weakest link I think. If you look at the >>> Avids >>> they do not use rod ends. >>> Dave >>> Dave, >>> I'm only going on memory here so please no one take it for >>> gospel but I seem to remember the weakest link is the rod end but also >>> here in Australia anyway we have Skyfox's that are rough copies of >>> Kitfox's. These are apparently failing at the carry through tube and >>> there is an AD out for that. I understand they have a weaker tube, maybe >>> wall thickness not sure ! >>> Also took my interest to read the Avid does not use rod ends. What do >>> they do ? I assume just a bolt ! Is it in shear ? >>> I think that loading the wing to failure point is on a video copied by >>> Grant Fluent on this list. I guess anyone that wants a copy could first >>> check with Grant that this is on the Video then buy a copy from him. I >>> remember his price was extremely reasonable and there was a lot of >>> interesting stuff on the DVD copy like loops and rolls in a Kitfox. >>> >>> Rex. >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 02, 2006
Subject: Re: Failure Point
From: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>
I bought the 1/4" threaded stud inserts to fit those forward hort. stab struts, and welded them in, fitted the 1/4" rod ends and have had no problems in over 200 hrs of flight, and like Lowell, check them prior to, and after each day of flying. Lynn On Saturday, December 2, 2006, at 05:33 PM, Lowell Fitt wrote: > > Jerry, > > Interesting. > > I still have the 3/16 rod ends on the foreward horizontal stab strut > and it is part of my preflight check. > > Regarding stronger wings. I wonder if this is a plus, as the Kifox > design with more "room for error" is a proven design as there have > been no structural failures. If after about 15 years of uneventful > use, would there be a reason to change the design? > > Lowell > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerry Liles" <wliles(at)bayou.com> > To: > Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 11:25 AM > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point > > >> >> Avid's, at least from the B model on, use one large size rod end on >> the rear strut of the left wing to allow trimming. No other rod ends >> are used in the wing or tail struts. Bolts in shear take the loads. >> Kitfox had some problems with rod ends failing in tail struts and >> finally went to beefier rod ends or simple struts for the tail. >> Using straight struts in the Avid left little room for error but >> resulted in a stronger wing and tail. >> Jerry Liles >> >> Rex Shaw wrote: >> >>> Where did it fail ? >>> The carry throguh tube would be one of the weakest links. >>> Rod ends would be the next weakest link I think. If you look at the >>> Avids >>> they do not use rod ends. >>> Dave >>> Dave, >>> I'm only going on memory here so please no one take it >>> for gospel but I seem to remember the weakest link is the rod end >>> but also here in Australia anyway we have Skyfox's that are rough >>> copies of Kitfox's. These are apparently failing at the carry >>> through tube and there is an AD out for that. I understand they have >>> a weaker tube, maybe wall thickness not sure ! >>> Also took my interest to read the Avid does not use rod ends. What >>> do they do ? I assume just a bolt ! Is it in shear ? >>> I think that loading the wing to failure point is on a video >>> copied by Grant Fluent on this list. I guess anyone that wants a >>> copy could first check with Grant that this is on the Video then buy >>> a copy from him. I remember his price was extremely reasonable and >>> there was a lot of interesting stuff on the DVD copy like loops and >>> rolls in a Kitfox. >>> Rex. >>> >>> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 02, 2006
From: PWilson <pwmac(at)sisna.com>
Subject: Re: Failure Point
Yes there have been failure on teh horizontal strut. Don't know how many but the archives had the info. The construction Skystar used was a #10x32 socket head cap screw welded in the end of the 3/8"x0.020" tube. Not an aircraft method but a short cut to avoid buying the correct AN490(?) tube end fitting. As shocking as it is surprisingly only a few failed. probably due to excess heat on the hardened cap screw. BTW, there is no way improper handling could break a #10x30 cap screw -For sure. Most of us that did the mod to the AN part used 1/4x28 AN part and plug welded it as well as seam welded it to the end of the tube. The cost to do the upgrade is minimal - just the AN tube end and the appropriate rod end. My welder charged me $10 after I prepped the parts. Shortening the rod is required to get the same length as before. Its very wise to keep checking for the failure. Regards, Paul =============== At 02:33 PM 12/2/2006, you wrote: > >Jerry, > >Interesting. > >I still have the 3/16 rod ends on the foreward horizontal stab strut >and it is part of my preflight check. > >Regarding stronger wings. I wonder if this is a plus, as the Kifox >design with more "room for error" is a proven design as there have >been no structural failures. If after about 15 years of uneventful >use, would there be a reason to change the design? > >Lowell >----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerry Liles" <wliles(at)bayou.com> >To: >Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 11:25 AM >Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point > > >> >>Avid's, at least from the B model on, use one large size rod end on >>the rear strut of the left wing to allow trimming. No other rod >>ends are used in the wing or tail struts. Bolts in shear take the >>loads. Kitfox had some problems with rod ends failing in tail >>struts and finally went to beefier rod ends or simple struts for >>the tail. Using straight struts in the Avid left little room for >>error but resulted in a stronger wing and tail. >>Jerry Liles >> >>Rex Shaw wrote: >> >>>Where did it fail ? >>>The carry throguh tube would be one of the weakest links. >>>Rod ends would be the next weakest link I think. If you look at the Avids >>>they do not use rod ends. >>> Dave >>> Dave, >>> I'm only going on memory here so please no one take >>> it for gospel but I seem to remember the weakest link is the rod >>> end but also here in Australia anyway we have Skyfox's that are >>> rough copies of Kitfox's. These are apparently failing at the >>> carry through tube and there is an AD out for that. I understand >>> they have a weaker tube, maybe wall thickness not sure ! >>> Also took my interest to read the Avid does not use rod ends. >>> What do they do ? I assume just a bolt ! Is it in shear ? >>> I think that loading the wing to failure point is on a video >>> copied by Grant Fluent on this list. I guess anyone that wants a >>> copy could first check with Grant that this is on the Video then >>> buy a copy from him. I remember his price was extremely >>> reasonable and there was a lot of interesting stuff on the DVD >>> copy like loops and rolls in a Kitfox. >>>Rex. >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Failure Point
From: "jimcarriere" <jimcarriere(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 02, 2006
My 7 uses 3/8" rod ends at each end of the wing struts. That is, the long threaded part of the rod is 3/8x24 (UNF), that attaches to the strut. The ball has a 1/4" hole, a 1/4" bolt attaches that to a bracket (and the bracket is attached to the wing spar). Those rod ends are pretty substantial... Jim in NW FL Series 7 in progress -------- Jim in NW FL Kitfox Series 7 in progress Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=78733#78733 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Failure Point
Date: Dec 02, 2006
Just a thought, once the horizontal stabilizers are adjusted for proper flight why not replace the horizontal struts with "fixed" units. That is, replace with tubing with crimped ends and no rod ends to break. Don Smythe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lynn Matteson" <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 5:59 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point > > I bought the 1/4" threaded stud inserts to fit those forward hort. stab > struts, and welded them in, fitted the 1/4" rod ends and have had no > problems in over 200 hrs of flight, and like Lowell, check them prior to, > and after each day of flying. > > Lynn > On Saturday, December 2, 2006, at 05:33 PM, Lowell Fitt wrote: > >> >> Jerry, >> >> Interesting. >> >> I still have the 3/16 rod ends on the foreward horizontal stab strut and >> it is part of my preflight check. >> >> Regarding stronger wings. I wonder if this is a plus, as the Kifox >> design with more "room for error" is a proven design as there have been >> no structural failures. If after about 15 years of uneventful use, would >> there be a reason to change the design? >> >> Lowell >> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerry Liles" <wliles(at)bayou.com> >> To: >> Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 11:25 AM >> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point >> >> >>> >>> Avid's, at least from the B model on, use one large size rod end on the >>> rear strut of the left wing to allow trimming. No other rod ends are >>> used in the wing or tail struts. Bolts in shear take the loads. Kitfox >>> had some problems with rod ends failing in tail struts and finally went >>> to beefier rod ends or simple struts for the tail. Using straight >>> struts in the Avid left little room for error but resulted in a stronger >>> wing and tail. >>> Jerry Liles >>> >>> Rex Shaw wrote: >>> >>>> Where did it fail ? >>>> The carry throguh tube would be one of the weakest links. >>>> Rod ends would be the next weakest link I think. If you look at the >>>> Avids >>>> they do not use rod ends. >>>> Dave >>>> Dave, >>>> I'm only going on memory here so please no one take it for >>>> gospel but I seem to remember the weakest link is the rod end but also >>>> here in Australia anyway we have Skyfox's that are rough copies of >>>> Kitfox's. These are apparently failing at the carry through tube and >>>> there is an AD out for that. I understand they have a weaker tube, >>>> maybe wall thickness not sure ! >>>> Also took my interest to read the Avid does not use rod ends. What do >>>> they do ? I assume just a bolt ! Is it in shear ? >>>> I think that loading the wing to failure point is on a video copied >>>> by Grant Fluent on this list. I guess anyone that wants a copy could >>>> first check with Grant that this is on the Video then buy a copy from >>>> him. I remember his price was extremely reasonable and there was a lot >>>> of interesting stuff on the DVD copy like loops and rolls in a Kitfox. >>>> Rex. >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dave" <dave(at)cfisher.com>
Subject: Re: Failure Point
Date: Dec 02, 2006
Don, You would have to get the hole drilled perfect in that case. I drop the front of my horiz. stab when floats go on and have to adjust a few timesto get hands free flights. Same thing going back to wheels in fall. Ski season approaching soon. :) BTW Don I saw your Fox on Barnstormers. Looks great !! Surprising how these Kitfox sell so cheap and at a fraction of a new Kit. Yours only has 150 hours? Good deal for some one. If anyone looking fora 582 Amphib fox there is one there as well on Aerocet floats for 25k . Flaots worth about 8k alone. Great deal Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe(at)cox.net> Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 7:59 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point > > Just a thought, once the horizontal stabilizers are adjusted for proper > flight why not replace the horizontal struts with "fixed" units. That > is, replace with tubing with crimped ends and no rod ends to break. > > Don Smythe > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Lynn Matteson" <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> > To: > Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 5:59 PM > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point > > >> >> I bought the 1/4" threaded stud inserts to fit those forward hort. stab >> struts, and welded them in, fitted the 1/4" rod ends and have had no >> problems in over 200 hrs of flight, and like Lowell, check them prior to, >> and after each day of flying. >> >> Lynn >> On Saturday, December 2, 2006, at 05:33 PM, Lowell Fitt wrote: >> >>> >>> Jerry, >>> >>> Interesting. >>> >>> I still have the 3/16 rod ends on the foreward horizontal stab strut and >>> it is part of my preflight check. >>> >>> Regarding stronger wings. I wonder if this is a plus, as the Kifox >>> design with more "room for error" is a proven design as there have been >>> no structural failures. If after about 15 years of uneventful use, >>> would there be a reason to change the design? >>> >>> Lowell >>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerry Liles" <wliles(at)bayou.com> >>> To: >>> Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 11:25 AM >>> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point >>> >>> >>>> >>>> Avid's, at least from the B model on, use one large size rod end on the >>>> rear strut of the left wing to allow trimming. No other rod ends are >>>> used in the wing or tail struts. Bolts in shear take the loads. >>>> Kitfox had some problems with rod ends failing in tail struts and >>>> finally went to beefier rod ends or simple struts for the tail. Using >>>> straight struts in the Avid left little room for error but resulted in >>>> a stronger wing and tail. >>>> Jerry Liles >>>> >>>> Rex Shaw wrote: >>>> >>>>> Where did it fail ? >>>>> The carry throguh tube would be one of the weakest links. >>>>> Rod ends would be the next weakest link I think. If you look at the >>>>> Avids >>>>> they do not use rod ends. >>>>> Dave >>>>> Dave, >>>>> I'm only going on memory here so please no one take it for >>>>> gospel but I seem to remember the weakest link is the rod end but also >>>>> here in Australia anyway we have Skyfox's that are rough copies of >>>>> Kitfox's. These are apparently failing at the carry through tube and >>>>> there is an AD out for that. I understand they have a weaker tube, >>>>> maybe wall thickness not sure ! >>>>> Also took my interest to read the Avid does not use rod ends. What >>>>> do they do ? I assume just a bolt ! Is it in shear ? >>>>> I think that loading the wing to failure point is on a video copied >>>>> by Grant Fluent on this list. I guess anyone that wants a copy could >>>>> first check with Grant that this is on the Video then buy a copy from >>>>> him. I remember his price was extremely reasonable and there was a lot >>>>> of interesting stuff on the DVD copy like loops and rolls in a Kitfox. >>>>> Rex. >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Failure Point
Date: Dec 02, 2006
Never! And the horizontal strut faillures were discovered post flight. I dare say that if we went through the design we could find lots of stuff that just doesn't "look" right. I think of the Rans with their construction methods, a take off from the ultralight design. Lots of brackets and bolts holding things together and their new stamped aluminum wing ribs - flimsy compared to the Kitfox design. Maybe the Kitfox is overdesigned and heavy as a reslult, but I like the history. I have been in some pretty heavy stuff, once in a flight of six flying over the Sawtooth Mountains of Idaho on our way to Smiley Creek - elev 7200 ft. - we did a quick 180 because we got tired of our heads banging on the skylight. Once in the middle of Nevada one of the guys inadvertently flew through a dust devil - no visible dust - and had a real ride, but other than having his headset knocked off his head and a good case of the shakes, no harm done. Lowell ----- Original Message ----- From: "dave" <dave(at)cfisher.com> Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 2:47 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point > > Lowell, > > I agree on the horiz stab rod ends being ok. I think alot of the > problem might have been from the pilot pulling on it rather than the grab > handle ? > > As far as the wings, I agree they seem strong but the idea for 2 rod ends > on the strut if probably to make up for builing errors if any as well as > adjustment. . I have not heard of them coming apart but I have broken > them on other applications. They are tiny compared to GA aircraft. That > being said, has ther ever been an in flight breakup of a Kitfox ? > > > Dave > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net> > To: > Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 5:33 PM > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point > > >> >> Jerry, >> >> Interesting. >> >> I still have the 3/16 rod ends on the foreward horizontal stab strut and >> it is part of my preflight check. >> >> Regarding stronger wings. I wonder if this is a plus, as the Kifox >> design with more "room for error" is a proven design as there have been >> no structural failures. If after about 15 years of uneventful use, would >> there be a reason to change the design? >> >> Lowell >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Jerry Liles" <wliles(at)bayou.com> >> To: >> Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 11:25 AM >> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point >> >> >>> >>> Avid's, at least from the B model on, use one large size rod end on the >>> rear strut of the left wing to allow trimming. No other rod ends are >>> used in the wing or tail struts. Bolts in shear take the loads. Kitfox >>> had some problems with rod ends failing in tail struts and finally went >>> to beefier rod ends or simple struts for the tail. Using straight >>> struts in the Avid left little room for error but resulted in a stronger >>> wing and tail. >>> Jerry Liles >>> >>> Rex Shaw wrote: >>> >>>> Where did it fail ? >>>> The carry throguh tube would be one of the weakest links. >>>> Rod ends would be the next weakest link I think. If you look at the >>>> Avids >>>> they do not use rod ends. >>>> Dave >>>> Dave, >>>> I'm only going on memory here so please no one take it for >>>> gospel but I seem to remember the weakest link is the rod end but also >>>> here in Australia anyway we have Skyfox's that are rough copies of >>>> Kitfox's. These are apparently failing at the carry through tube and >>>> there is an AD out for that. I understand they have a weaker tube, >>>> maybe wall thickness not sure ! >>>> Also took my interest to read the Avid does not use rod ends. What do >>>> they do ? I assume just a bolt ! Is it in shear ? >>>> I think that loading the wing to failure point is on a video copied >>>> by Grant Fluent on this list. I guess anyone that wants a copy could >>>> first check with Grant that this is on the Video then buy a copy from >>>> him. I remember his price was extremely reasonable and there was a lot >>>> of interesting stuff on the DVD copy like loops and rolls in a Kitfox. >>>> >>>> Rex. >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dave" <dave(at)cfisher.com>
Subject: Re: Failure Point
Date: Dec 02, 2006
Good to know Lowell. I too like the design of the Kitfox and have found it a easy adaptable airplane to fly. What happened on the horiz stab issue ? Were they broken from tugging on them ? As far as heavy , I think that any plane can get heavy in a hurry from all the add on as well as engine choices. In my opinion the Kitfox is one of the best on the market if not the best. Not to mention best bang for the buck on the used market. I am lost to understand whatd folks like about Challenger, Beavers and Chinnook planes but they are very popular and some really hold the mkt value for some reason that I will never understand. I think if a guy bought up 1 mil $ worth of used Kitfoxes that he could see at least 50% return over the next few years and if not he would have a nice collection of toys. Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net> Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 8:28 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point > > Never! > > And the horizontal strut faillures were discovered post flight. > > I dare say that if we went through the design we could find lots of stuff > that just doesn't "look" right. I think of the Rans with their > construction methods, a take off from the ultralight design. Lots of > brackets and bolts holding things together and their new stamped aluminum > wing ribs - flimsy compared to the Kitfox design. Maybe the Kitfox is > overdesigned and heavy as a reslult, but I like the history. I have been > in some pretty heavy stuff, once in a flight of six flying over the > Sawtooth Mountains of Idaho on our way to Smiley Creek - elev 7200 ft. - > we did a quick 180 because we got tired of our heads banging on the > skylight. Once in the middle of Nevada one of the guys inadvertently flew > through a dust devil - no visible dust - and had a real ride, but other > than having his headset knocked off his head and a good case of the > shakes, no harm done. > > Lowell > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "dave" <dave(at)cfisher.com> > To: > Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 2:47 PM > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point > > >> >> Lowell, >> >> I agree on the horiz stab rod ends being ok. I think alot of the >> problem might have been from the pilot pulling on it rather than the >> grab handle ? >> >> As far as the wings, I agree they seem strong but the idea for 2 rod >> ends on the strut if probably to make up for builing errors if any as >> well as adjustment. . I have not heard of them coming apart but I have >> broken them on other applications. They are tiny compared to GA >> aircraft. That being said, has ther ever been an in flight breakup of a >> Kitfox ? >> >> >> Dave >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net> >> To: >> Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 5:33 PM >> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point >> >> >>> >>> Jerry, >>> >>> Interesting. >>> >>> I still have the 3/16 rod ends on the foreward horizontal stab strut and >>> it is part of my preflight check. >>> >>> Regarding stronger wings. I wonder if this is a plus, as the Kifox >>> design with more "room for error" is a proven design as there have been >>> no structural failures. If after about 15 years of uneventful use, >>> would there be a reason to change the design? >>> >>> Lowell >>> ----- Original Message ----- >>> From: "Jerry Liles" <wliles(at)bayou.com> >>> To: >>> Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 11:25 AM >>> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point >>> >>> >>>> >>>> Avid's, at least from the B model on, use one large size rod end on the >>>> rear strut of the left wing to allow trimming. No other rod ends are >>>> used in the wing or tail struts. Bolts in shear take the loads. >>>> Kitfox had some problems with rod ends failing in tail struts and >>>> finally went to beefier rod ends or simple struts for the tail. Using >>>> straight struts in the Avid left little room for error but resulted in >>>> a stronger wing and tail. >>>> Jerry Liles >>>> >>>> Rex Shaw wrote: >>>> >>>>> Where did it fail ? >>>>> The carry throguh tube would be one of the weakest links. >>>>> Rod ends would be the next weakest link I think. If you look at the >>>>> Avids >>>>> they do not use rod ends. >>>>> Dave >>>>> Dave, >>>>> I'm only going on memory here so please no one take it for >>>>> gospel but I seem to remember the weakest link is the rod end but also >>>>> here in Australia anyway we have Skyfox's that are rough copies of >>>>> Kitfox's. These are apparently failing at the carry through tube and >>>>> there is an AD out for that. I understand they have a weaker tube, >>>>> maybe wall thickness not sure ! >>>>> Also took my interest to read the Avid does not use rod ends. What >>>>> do they do ? I assume just a bolt ! Is it in shear ? >>>>> I think that loading the wing to failure point is on a video copied >>>>> by Grant Fluent on this list. I guess anyone that wants a copy could >>>>> first check with Grant that this is on the Video then buy a copy from >>>>> him. I remember his price was extremely reasonable and there was a lot >>>>> of interesting stuff on the DVD copy like loops and rolls in a Kitfox. >>>>> >>>>> Rex. >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 02, 2006
From: Jerry Liles <wliles(at)bayou.com>
Subject: Re: Failure Point
While it never caused a crash that I'm aware of there were just too many incidents of failure of the horizontal stab rod ends to call it ok. I recall one incident a few years ago related by a member of the Kitfox list of having to wrestle his airplane back home as it suddenly wanted to descend and turn and he could not figure out why until someone on the list suggested he inspect the horizontal stab. If the forces had been a bit greater the stab might have twisted or fluttered and made the plane uncontrollable or stressed the rear rod end to failure. That might have hurt. As for the rod ends on the wings they seem to be trouble free and adequately strong and make it easier to correct any minor misalignments, certainly more so than on an Avid, though I had no problem with mine. dave wrote: > > Lowell, > > I agree on the horiz stab rod ends being ok. I think alot of the > problem might have been from the pilot pulling on it rather than the > grab handle ? > > As far as the wings, I agree they seem strong but the idea for 2 rod > ends on the strut if probably to make up for builing errors if any as > well as adjustment. . I have not heard of them coming apart but I > have broken them on other applications. They are tiny compared to GA > aircraft. That being said, has ther ever been an in flight breakup of > a Kitfox ? > > > Dave > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net> > To: > Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 5:33 PM > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point > > >> >> Jerry, >> >> Interesting. >> >> I still have the 3/16 rod ends on the foreward horizontal stab strut >> and it is part of my preflight check. >> >> Regarding stronger wings. I wonder if this is a plus, as the Kifox >> design with more "room for error" is a proven design as there have >> been no structural failures. If after about 15 years of uneventful >> use, would there be a reason to change the design? >> >> Lowell >> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerry Liles" <wliles(at)bayou.com> >> To: >> Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 11:25 AM >> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point >> >> >>> >>> Avid's, at least from the B model on, use one large size rod end on >>> the rear strut of the left wing to allow trimming. No other rod ends >>> are used in the wing or tail struts. Bolts in shear take the >>> loads. Kitfox had some problems with rod ends failing in tail >>> struts and finally went to beefier rod ends or simple struts for the >>> tail. Using straight struts in the Avid left little room for error >>> but resulted in a stronger wing and tail. >>> Jerry Liles >>> >>> Rex Shaw wrote: >>> >>>> Where did it fail ? >>>> The carry throguh tube would be one of the weakest links. >>>> Rod ends would be the next weakest link I think. If you look at >>>> the Avids >>>> they do not use rod ends. >>>> Dave >>>> Dave, >>>> I'm only going on memory here so please no one take it >>>> for gospel but I seem to remember the weakest link is the rod end >>>> but also here in Australia anyway we have Skyfox's that are rough >>>> copies of Kitfox's. These are apparently failing at the carry >>>> through tube and there is an AD out for that. I understand they >>>> have a weaker tube, maybe wall thickness not sure ! >>>> Also took my interest to read the Avid does not use rod ends. >>>> What do they do ? I assume just a bolt ! Is it in shear ? >>>> I think that loading the wing to failure point is on a video >>>> copied by Grant Fluent on this list. I guess anyone that wants a >>>> copy could first check with Grant that this is on the Video then >>>> buy a copy from him. I remember his price was extremely reasonable >>>> and there was a lot of interesting stuff on the DVD copy like loops >>>> and rolls in a Kitfox. >>>> >>>> Rex. >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca>
Subject: Failure Point
Date: Dec 03, 2006
Dave: Not hard to see the interest in the Challenger and its clones. Lots of unobstructed view and a very light engine. Capable on floats. Very fast to build. Just watch their video on low and slow flying.... You can do the same in the 'Fox but they won't tell you that. The easily removable doors are great for aerial photography. I looked at the Challenger quite closely. What I liked was above. What I didn't like was the blind riveted cluster fish plate joints. I don't think they even used Cherry max rivets on them. (I could be wrong as those joints are made at the factory) I feel safer with 4130 in the frame than extruded aluminium where I can easily see it. I also didn't like the idea of being stuck with tricycle only landing gear. In the kitfox there is still the tricycle option. The real selling point for me was the wing folding feature of the Kitfox. I can unfold mine in less time than it takes to tell you how to do it. The plane goes back into my garage after every flight. I fly floats so I like the idea of the bologna slicer being out front as far away from the spray as possible. I also like the idea of a 4130 welded frame! Side by side seating to me is another plus but I also liked flying the Super Cub that has tandem seating. I find pre-flight and post-flight inspections are easy to do on the Kitfox as the whole front cowl is quickly removed and access even to the back of the instrument panel is easy. Weather here is rarely hot so I installed a gas shock on my door to hold it up during flight.....effect is fabulas. Landing on floats with the door open is at this stage beyond my ability to adequately describe. That one you will have to try for your self. It's a bit like your first solo. The end result is personal preference. Both are good planes (the Challenger by reputation). I think the Kitfox and Avid (which one is the clone?) are stronger and better in the harsh environment I live. If there is a fault with the Kitfox it has to be I get nervous when someone who has never been around a plane before offers me help launching or retrieving the plane. It would be much worse with the Challenger. Noel > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of dave > Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 10:54 PM > To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point > > > > Good to know Lowell. I too like the design of the Kitfox and > have found it > a easy adaptable airplane to fly. > What happened on the horiz stab issue ? Were they broken > from tugging on > them ? > > As far as heavy , I think that any plane can get heavy in a > hurry from all > the add on as well as engine choices. > > In my opinion the Kitfox is one of the best on the market if > not the best. > Not to mention best bang for the buck on the used market. I > am lost to > understand whatd folks like about Challenger, Beavers and > Chinnook planes > but they are very popular and some really hold the mkt value > for some reason > that I will never understand. > > I think if a guy bought up 1 mil $ worth of used Kitfoxes > that he could see > at least 50% return over the next few years and if not he > would have a nice > collection of toys. > > Dave ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "ron schick" <roncarolnikko(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Overdue plane
Date: Dec 02, 2006
My friends I fear the worst for my neighbor and friend. At about 4:00 my Kitfox and I were in loose formation with N914C and now at 8:43 the hanger is empty, the trucks are still there, and the police have been to his house. Hug your wife, kids or whatever and remember there is no reset button. A picture of a non Kitfox friend. Ron NB Ore (Coos Bay) _________________________________________________________________ Fixing up the home? Live Search can help ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: type of fuel
From: "avtar412" <janderson412(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Dec 02, 2006
Synthetic oil will not combine with the TEL and lead will build up as lead sludge. Semi-synthetic is a good compromise. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=78784#78784 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "JC Propellerdesign" <propellerdesign(at)tele2.se>
Subject: Re: Subaru EA-81
Date: Dec 03, 2006
Here is a lot interesting information about cooling, http://www.rotaryeng.net/how-to-cool12.html Also attached is an excel file for cooling estimate. Jan Carlsson www.jcpropellerdesign.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Kathy & Dick Toomey To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 11:39 PM Subject: Kitfox-List: Subaru EA-81 I am curious to what size radiators are being used (Square inches) with success for proper cooling on a Subaru EA-81 engine with carburetors. Also is an oil cooler necessary? Thanks Dick ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Failure Point
Date: Dec 03, 2006
I have this mod on my list of things to do. Just remove one rod (with rod end) at a time. pre-drill the fuselage end and attach new rod. Put a tick mark down through the hole in the stab where you want the new rod drilled. I think that should be as close as you need it. Don Smythe. -- Original Message ----- From: "dave" <dave(at)cfisher.com> Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 8:09 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point > > Don, You would have to get the hole drilled perfect in that case. > > I drop the front of my horiz. stab when floats go on and have to adjust a > few timesto get hands free flights. > Same thing going back to wheels in fall. Ski season approaching soon. :) > > BTW Don I saw your Fox on Barnstormers. Looks great !! Surprising how > these Kitfox sell so cheap and at a fraction of a new Kit. Yours only has > 150 hours? Good deal for some one. > If anyone looking fora 582 Amphib fox there is one there as well on > Aerocet floats for 25k . Flaots worth about 8k alone. Great deal > > > Dave > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe(at)cox.net> > To: > Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 7:59 PM > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point > > >> >> Just a thought, once the horizontal stabilizers are adjusted for proper >> flight why not replace the horizontal struts with "fixed" units. That >> is, replace with tubing with crimped ends and no rod ends to break. >> >> Don Smythe >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Lynn Matteson" <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> >> To: >> Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 5:59 PM >> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point >> >> >>> >>> I bought the 1/4" threaded stud inserts to fit those forward hort. stab >>> struts, and welded them in, fitted the 1/4" rod ends and have had no >>> problems in over 200 hrs of flight, and like Lowell, check them prior >>> to, and after each day of flying. >>> >>> Lynn >>> On Saturday, December 2, 2006, at 05:33 PM, Lowell Fitt wrote: >>> >>>> >>>> Jerry, >>>> >>>> Interesting. >>>> >>>> I still have the 3/16 rod ends on the foreward horizontal stab strut >>>> and it is part of my preflight check. >>>> >>>> Regarding stronger wings. I wonder if this is a plus, as the Kifox >>>> design with more "room for error" is a proven design as there have been >>>> no structural failures. If after about 15 years of uneventful use, >>>> would there be a reason to change the design? >>>> >>>> Lowell >>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerry Liles" <wliles(at)bayou.com> >>>> To: >>>> Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 11:25 AM >>>> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point >>>> >>>> >>>>> >>>>> Avid's, at least from the B model on, use one large size rod end on >>>>> the rear strut of the left wing to allow trimming. No other rod ends >>>>> are used in the wing or tail struts. Bolts in shear take the loads. >>>>> Kitfox had some problems with rod ends failing in tail struts and >>>>> finally went to beefier rod ends or simple struts for the tail. Using >>>>> straight struts in the Avid left little room for error but resulted in >>>>> a stronger wing and tail. >>>>> Jerry Liles >>>>> >>>>> Rex Shaw wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> Where did it fail ? >>>>>> The carry throguh tube would be one of the weakest links. >>>>>> Rod ends would be the next weakest link I think. If you look at the >>>>>> Avids >>>>>> they do not use rod ends. >>>>>> Dave >>>>>> Dave, >>>>>> I'm only going on memory here so please no one take it >>>>>> for gospel but I seem to remember the weakest link is the rod end but >>>>>> also here in Australia anyway we have Skyfox's that are rough copies >>>>>> of Kitfox's. These are apparently failing at the carry through tube >>>>>> and there is an AD out for that. I understand they have a weaker >>>>>> tube, maybe wall thickness not sure ! >>>>>> Also took my interest to read the Avid does not use rod ends. What >>>>>> do they do ? I assume just a bolt ! Is it in shear ? >>>>>> I think that loading the wing to failure point is on a video copied >>>>>> by Grant Fluent on this list. I guess anyone that wants a copy could >>>>>> first check with Grant that this is on the Video then buy a copy from >>>>>> him. I remember his price was extremely reasonable and there was a >>>>>> lot of interesting stuff on the DVD copy like loops and rolls in a >>>>>> Kitfox. >>>>>> Rex. >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dave" <dave(at)cfisher.com>
Subject: Re: Failure Point
Date: Dec 03, 2006
Don, I would like it keep the option for adjustment and the Rod ends seem to serve well. Would your modification be considered a airframe modification? Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe(at)cox.net> Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2006 7:28 AM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point > > I have this mod on my list of things to do. Just remove one rod (with rod > end) at a time. pre-drill the fuselage end and attach new rod. Put a > tick mark down through the hole in the stab where you want the new rod > drilled. I think that should be as close as you need it. > > Don Smythe. > > -- Original Message ----- > From: "dave" <dave(at)cfisher.com> > To: > Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 8:09 PM > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point > > >> >> Don, You would have to get the hole drilled perfect in that case. >> >> I drop the front of my horiz. stab when floats go on and have to adjust >> a few timesto get hands free flights. >> Same thing going back to wheels in fall. Ski season approaching soon. >> :) >> >> BTW Don I saw your Fox on Barnstormers. Looks great !! Surprising how >> these Kitfox sell so cheap and at a fraction of a new Kit. Yours only >> has 150 hours? Good deal for some one. >> If anyone looking fora 582 Amphib fox there is one there as well on >> Aerocet floats for 25k . Flaots worth about 8k alone. Great deal >> >> >> Dave >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe(at)cox.net> >> To: >> Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 7:59 PM >> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point >> >> >>> >>> Just a thought, once the horizontal stabilizers are adjusted for proper >>> flight why not replace the horizontal struts with "fixed" units. That >>> is, replace with tubing with crimped ends and no rod ends to break. >>> >>> Don Smythe >>> ----- Original Message ----- >>> From: "Lynn Matteson" <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> >>> To: >>> Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 5:59 PM >>> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point >>> >>> >>>> >>>> I bought the 1/4" threaded stud inserts to fit those forward hort. stab >>>> struts, and welded them in, fitted the 1/4" rod ends and have had no >>>> problems in over 200 hrs of flight, and like Lowell, check them prior >>>> to, and after each day of flying. >>>> >>>> Lynn >>>> On Saturday, December 2, 2006, at 05:33 PM, Lowell Fitt wrote: >>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Jerry, >>>>> >>>>> Interesting. >>>>> >>>>> I still have the 3/16 rod ends on the foreward horizontal stab strut >>>>> and it is part of my preflight check. >>>>> >>>>> Regarding stronger wings. I wonder if this is a plus, as the Kifox >>>>> design with more "room for error" is a proven design as there have >>>>> been no structural failures. If after about 15 years of uneventful >>>>> use, would there be a reason to change the design? >>>>> >>>>> Lowell >>>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerry Liles" <wliles(at)bayou.com> >>>>> To: >>>>> Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 11:25 AM >>>>> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point >>>>> >>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> Avid's, at least from the B model on, use one large size rod end on >>>>>> the rear strut of the left wing to allow trimming. No other rod ends >>>>>> are used in the wing or tail struts. Bolts in shear take the loads. >>>>>> Kitfox had some problems with rod ends failing in tail struts and >>>>>> finally went to beefier rod ends or simple struts for the tail. >>>>>> Using straight struts in the Avid left little room for error but >>>>>> resulted in a stronger wing and tail. >>>>>> Jerry Liles >>>>>> >>>>>> Rex Shaw wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> Where did it fail ? >>>>>>> The carry throguh tube would be one of the weakest links. >>>>>>> Rod ends would be the next weakest link I think. If you look at the >>>>>>> Avids >>>>>>> they do not use rod ends. >>>>>>> Dave >>>>>>> Dave, >>>>>>> I'm only going on memory here so please no one take it >>>>>>> for gospel but I seem to remember the weakest link is the rod end >>>>>>> but also here in Australia anyway we have Skyfox's that are rough >>>>>>> copies of Kitfox's. These are apparently failing at the carry >>>>>>> through tube and there is an AD out for that. I understand they have >>>>>>> a weaker tube, maybe wall thickness not sure ! >>>>>>> Also took my interest to read the Avid does not use rod ends. What >>>>>>> do they do ? I assume just a bolt ! Is it in shear ? >>>>>>> I think that loading the wing to failure point is on a video >>>>>>> copied by Grant Fluent on this list. I guess anyone that wants a >>>>>>> copy could first check with Grant that this is on the Video then buy >>>>>>> a copy from him. I remember his price was extremely reasonable and >>>>>>> there was a lot of interesting stuff on the DVD copy like loops and >>>>>>> rolls in a Kitfox. >>>>>>> Rex. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dave" <dave(at)cfisher.com>
Subject: Re: Failure Point rod end - horiz stab.
Date: Dec 03, 2006
Jerry -- I canno see the rod ends breaking from normal use. I would think that some have used the horiz stab Strut for moving tail around. Now if you bend a rodend and more than once or twice, I could see it breaking at a thread. Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerry Liles" <wliles(at)bayou.com> Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 9:26 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point > > While it never caused a crash that I'm aware of there were just too many > incidents of failure of the horizontal stab rod ends to call it ok. I > recall one incident a few years ago related by a member of the Kitfox list > of having to wrestle his airplane back home as it suddenly wanted to > descend and turn and he could not figure out why until someone on the list > suggested he inspect the horizontal stab. If the forces had been a bit > greater the stab might have twisted or fluttered and made the plane > uncontrollable or stressed the rear rod end to failure. That might have > hurt. As for the rod ends on the wings they seem to be trouble free and > adequately strong and make it easier to correct any minor misalignments, > certainly more so than on an Avid, though I had no problem with mine. > > dave wrote: > >> >> Lowell, >> >> I agree on the horiz stab rod ends being ok. I think alot of the >> problem might have been from the pilot pulling on it rather than the >> grab handle ? >> >> As far as the wings, I agree they seem strong but the idea for 2 rod >> ends on the strut if probably to make up for builing errors if any as >> well as adjustment. . I have not heard of them coming apart but I have >> broken them on other applications. They are tiny compared to GA >> aircraft. That being said, has ther ever been an in flight breakup of a >> Kitfox ? >> >> >> Dave >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net> >> To: >> Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 5:33 PM >> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point >> >> >>> >>> Jerry, >>> >>> Interesting. >>> >>> I still have the 3/16 rod ends on the foreward horizontal stab strut and >>> it is part of my preflight check. >>> >>> Regarding stronger wings. I wonder if this is a plus, as the Kifox >>> design with more "room for error" is a proven design as there have been >>> no structural failures. If after about 15 years of uneventful use, >>> would there be a reason to change the design? >>> >>> Lowell >>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerry Liles" <wliles(at)bayou.com> >>> To: >>> Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 11:25 AM >>> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point >>> >>> >>>> >>>> Avid's, at least from the B model on, use one large size rod end on the >>>> rear strut of the left wing to allow trimming. No other rod ends are >>>> used in the wing or tail struts. Bolts in shear take the loads. >>>> Kitfox had some problems with rod ends failing in tail struts and >>>> finally went to beefier rod ends or simple struts for the tail. Using >>>> straight struts in the Avid left little room for error but resulted in >>>> a stronger wing and tail. >>>> Jerry Liles >>>> >>>> Rex Shaw wrote: >>>> >>>>> Where did it fail ? >>>>> The carry throguh tube would be one of the weakest links. >>>>> Rod ends would be the next weakest link I think. If you look at the >>>>> Avids >>>>> they do not use rod ends. >>>>> Dave >>>>> Dave, >>>>> I'm only going on memory here so please no one take it for >>>>> gospel but I seem to remember the weakest link is the rod end but also >>>>> here in Australia anyway we have Skyfox's that are rough copies of >>>>> Kitfox's. These are apparently failing at the carry through tube and >>>>> there is an AD out for that. I understand they have a weaker tube, >>>>> maybe wall thickness not sure ! >>>>> Also took my interest to read the Avid does not use rod ends. What >>>>> do they do ? I assume just a bolt ! Is it in shear ? >>>>> I think that loading the wing to failure point is on a video copied >>>>> by Grant Fluent on this list. I guess anyone that wants a copy could >>>>> first check with Grant that this is on the Video then buy a copy from >>>>> him. I remember his price was extremely reasonable and there was a lot >>>>> of interesting stuff on the DVD copy like loops and rolls in a Kitfox. >>>>> >>>>> Rex. >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Failure Point
Date: Dec 03, 2006
I would think that once they are set to length, they should not ever need changing. However, I believe you mention changing to floats and this might require a seasonal change?? If I remember correctly, the rod ends on the stabs are 3/16" where every other rod end on my Fox is 1/4" or bigger. I also seem to remember that Fox's sold overseas required the stab rod ends to be upgraded to 1/4". There has been a couple cases where the rod ends were found broken after a flight. Regardless whether they broke due to flight or rough ground handling, I think a good field fix might be in order. I don't know if this type mod would be considered an airframe mod or not but probably would. So, that is another question. I'd say, you can do the mod, log it and forget it??? If you have a case where winter/summer lengths are different, make two sets. This is probably not a major concern but is always on my preflight check list to wiggle all four rods. I've had my plane moved many times by other hanger mates and you never know what they might do in moving your plane. Don Smythe ----- Original Message ----- From: "dave" <dave(at)cfisher.com> Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2006 8:17 AM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point > > Don, I would like it keep the option for adjustment and the Rod ends seem > to serve well. > Would your modification be considered a airframe modification? > > Dave > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe(at)cox.net> > To: > Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2006 7:28 AM > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point > > >> >> I have this mod on my list of things to do. Just remove one rod (with >> rod end) at a time. pre-drill the fuselage end and attach new rod. Put >> a tick mark down through the hole in the stab where you want the new rod >> drilled. I think that should be as close as you need it. >> >> Don Smythe. >> >> -- Original Message ----- >> From: "dave" <dave(at)cfisher.com> >> To: >> Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 8:09 PM >> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point >> >> >>> >>> Don, You would have to get the hole drilled perfect in that case. >>> >>> I drop the front of my horiz. stab when floats go on and have to adjust >>> a few timesto get hands free flights. >>> Same thing going back to wheels in fall. Ski season approaching soon. >>> :) >>> >>> BTW Don I saw your Fox on Barnstormers. Looks great !! Surprising how >>> these Kitfox sell so cheap and at a fraction of a new Kit. Yours only >>> has 150 hours? Good deal for some one. >>> If anyone looking fora 582 Amphib fox there is one there as well on >>> Aerocet floats for 25k . Flaots worth about 8k alone. Great deal >>> >>> >>> Dave >>> >>> >>> ----- Original Message ----- >>> From: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe(at)cox.net> >>> To: >>> Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 7:59 PM >>> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point >>> >>> >>>> >>>> Just a thought, once the horizontal stabilizers are adjusted for proper >>>> flight why not replace the horizontal struts with "fixed" units. That >>>> is, replace with tubing with crimped ends and no rod ends to break. >>>> >>>> Don Smythe >>>> ----- Original Message ----- >>>> From: "Lynn Matteson" <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> >>>> To: >>>> Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 5:59 PM >>>> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point >>>> >>>> >>>>> >>>>> I bought the 1/4" threaded stud inserts to fit those forward hort. >>>>> stab struts, and welded them in, fitted the 1/4" rod ends and have had >>>>> no problems in over 200 hrs of flight, and like Lowell, check them >>>>> prior to, and after each day of flying. >>>>> >>>>> Lynn >>>>> On Saturday, December 2, 2006, at 05:33 PM, Lowell Fitt wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> Jerry, >>>>>> >>>>>> Interesting. >>>>>> >>>>>> I still have the 3/16 rod ends on the foreward horizontal stab strut >>>>>> and it is part of my preflight check. >>>>>> >>>>>> Regarding stronger wings. I wonder if this is a plus, as the Kifox >>>>>> design with more "room for error" is a proven design as there have >>>>>> been no structural failures. If after about 15 years of uneventful >>>>>> use, would there be a reason to change the design? >>>>>> >>>>>> Lowell >>>>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerry Liles" <wliles(at)bayou.com> >>>>>> To: >>>>>> Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 11:25 AM >>>>>> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Avid's, at least from the B model on, use one large size rod end on >>>>>>> the rear strut of the left wing to allow trimming. No other rod ends >>>>>>> are used in the wing or tail struts. Bolts in shear take the loads. >>>>>>> Kitfox had some problems with rod ends failing in tail struts and >>>>>>> finally went to beefier rod ends or simple struts for the tail. >>>>>>> Using straight struts in the Avid left little room for error but >>>>>>> resulted in a stronger wing and tail. >>>>>>> Jerry Liles >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Rex Shaw wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Where did it fail ? >>>>>>>> The carry throguh tube would be one of the weakest links. >>>>>>>> Rod ends would be the next weakest link I think. If you look at >>>>>>>> the Avids >>>>>>>> they do not use rod ends. >>>>>>>> Dave >>>>>>>> Dave, >>>>>>>> I'm only going on memory here so please no one take it >>>>>>>> for gospel but I seem to remember the weakest link is the rod end >>>>>>>> but also here in Australia anyway we have Skyfox's that are rough >>>>>>>> copies of Kitfox's. These are apparently failing at the carry >>>>>>>> through tube and there is an AD out for that. I understand they >>>>>>>> have a weaker tube, maybe wall thickness not sure ! >>>>>>>> Also took my interest to read the Avid does not use rod ends. >>>>>>>> What do they do ? I assume just a bolt ! Is it in shear ? >>>>>>>> I think that loading the wing to failure point is on a video >>>>>>>> copied by Grant Fluent on this list. I guess anyone that wants a >>>>>>>> copy could first check with Grant that this is on the Video then >>>>>>>> buy a copy from him. I remember his price was extremely reasonable >>>>>>>> and there was a lot of interesting stuff on the DVD copy like loops >>>>>>>> and rolls in a Kitfox. >>>>>>>> Rex. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Failure Point
Date: Dec 03, 2006
Jerry, Apples and oranges here. The failure with wrestle had to do with the jack screw in the larger models that trimmed the horizontal stabilizer. That is what failed. It had nothing to do with the struts, though it is agreed that the larger models the struts had been beefed up and possibly with the use of accepted AN fittings. I remember two - maybe more of the rod ends - rather the stud going into the rod ends - failing and it was discovered on the ground after a flight. I don't recall if there was a "feeling" in flight, but it definitely was not a wrestle. There was an upgrade offered, but I couldn't find a Service Letter or Bulletin on the issue. Lowell ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerry Liles" <wliles(at)bayou.com> Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 6:26 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point > > While it never caused a crash that I'm aware of there were just too many > incidents of failure of the horizontal stab rod ends to call it ok. I > recall one incident a few years ago related by a member of the Kitfox list > of having to wrestle his airplane back home as it suddenly wanted to > descend and turn and he could not figure out why until someone on the list > suggested he inspect the horizontal stab. If the forces had been a bit > greater the stab might have twisted or fluttered and made the plane > uncontrollable or stressed the rear rod end to failure. That might have > hurt. As for the rod ends on the wings they seem to be trouble free and > adequately strong and make it easier to correct any minor misalignments, > certainly more so than on an Avid, though I had no problem with mine. > > dave wrote: > >> >> Lowell, >> >> I agree on the horiz stab rod ends being ok. I think alot of the >> problem might have been from the pilot pulling on it rather than the >> grab handle ? >> >> As far as the wings, I agree they seem strong but the idea for 2 rod >> ends on the strut if probably to make up for builing errors if any as >> well as adjustment. . I have not heard of them coming apart but I have >> broken them on other applications. They are tiny compared to GA >> aircraft. That being said, has ther ever been an in flight breakup of a >> Kitfox ? >> >> >> Dave >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net> >> To: >> Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 5:33 PM >> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point >> >> >>> >>> Jerry, >>> >>> Interesting. >>> >>> I still have the 3/16 rod ends on the foreward horizontal stab strut and >>> it is part of my preflight check. >>> >>> Regarding stronger wings. I wonder if this is a plus, as the Kifox >>> design with more "room for error" is a proven design as there have been >>> no structural failures. If after about 15 years of uneventful use, >>> would there be a reason to change the design? >>> >>> Lowell >>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerry Liles" <wliles(at)bayou.com> >>> To: >>> Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 11:25 AM >>> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point >>> >>> >>>> >>>> Avid's, at least from the B model on, use one large size rod end on the >>>> rear strut of the left wing to allow trimming. No other rod ends are >>>> used in the wing or tail struts. Bolts in shear take the loads. >>>> Kitfox had some problems with rod ends failing in tail struts and >>>> finally went to beefier rod ends or simple struts for the tail. Using >>>> straight struts in the Avid left little room for error but resulted in >>>> a stronger wing and tail. >>>> Jerry Liles >>>> >>>> Rex Shaw wrote: >>>> >>>>> Where did it fail ? >>>>> The carry throguh tube would be one of the weakest links. >>>>> Rod ends would be the next weakest link I think. If you look at the >>>>> Avids >>>>> they do not use rod ends. >>>>> Dave >>>>> Dave, >>>>> I'm only going on memory here so please no one take it for >>>>> gospel but I seem to remember the weakest link is the rod end but also >>>>> here in Australia anyway we have Skyfox's that are rough copies of >>>>> Kitfox's. These are apparently failing at the carry through tube and >>>>> there is an AD out for that. I understand they have a weaker tube, >>>>> maybe wall thickness not sure ! >>>>> Also took my interest to read the Avid does not use rod ends. What >>>>> do they do ? I assume just a bolt ! Is it in shear ? >>>>> I think that loading the wing to failure point is on a video copied >>>>> by Grant Fluent on this list. I guess anyone that wants a copy could >>>>> first check with Grant that this is on the Video then buy a copy from >>>>> him. I remember his price was extremely reasonable and there was a lot >>>>> of interesting stuff on the DVD copy like loops and rolls in a Kitfox. >>>>> >>>>> Rex. >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 2006
From: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Overdue plane
Hi Ron, Been there, done that too many times myself in the Marines. I hope for a close call and a pleasant surprise. Keep us informed. Kurt S. S-5 --- ron schick wrote: > My friends I fear the worst for my neighbor and > friend. At about 4:00 my > Kitfox and I were in loose formation with N914C and > now at 8:43 the hanger > is empty, the trucks are still there, and the police > have been to his house. > Hug your wife, kids or whatever and remember there > is no reset button. A > picture of a non Kitfox friend. Ron NB Ore (Coos > Bay) Cheap talk? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 2006
From: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Engine cooling - was Subaru EA-81
That is a lot of great info Jan. Thanks. The engine heat diagram is very informative. I am reminded of the piston jet engine I read about years ago. The entire thrust of the engine was a produce of the exhaust. No prop. The piston was free to oscillate between 2 cylinder heads on opposite ends of a cylinder. It was a 2 cycle, and the intake and exhaust were in the middle of the cylinder. The exhaust was fed into a chamber where water was injected and the steam was then blown out thru a nozzel. Lots of thrust and noise were the results. But I wonder how much of the origional energy was turned into thrust by this simple engine? It could have been much more energy efficient than our piston engines turning a prop. But the need to carry a lot of water around to make the steam for continuous thrust was certainly a reason for it to never be produced. What keeps it in my memory is that our heat loss thru the exhaust can be used for short periods of time and much thrust using a small amount of water. It would be interesting to figure out how much thrust can be gained for how long with one gallon of water. Could be a great short field performer. Even better, you can get more thrust on floats, where you can feed water from the lake rather than carrying it with you. Much thrust increase for little added weight, but then there is the back pressure in the exhaust to contend with too. Just some ideas to pass out for those who want to really experiment. Kurt S. S-5 --- JC Propellerdesign wrote: > Here is a lot interesting information about cooling, > > http://www.rotaryeng.net/how-to-cool12.html > > Also attached is an excel file for cooling estimate. > > Jan Carlsson > www.jcpropellerdesign.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Peter Graichen" <n10pg(at)neo.rr.com>
Subject: EA-81 fuel
Date: Dec 03, 2006
NO! Peter Graichen http:/home.neo.rr.com/n10pg/kitfox.htm Peter: Did you use any type of lead scavinger? Clem Nichols ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Graichen" <n10pg(at)neo.rr.com> Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 8:48 AM Subject: Kitfox-List: EA-81 fuel > > I have used nothing but 100LL av-fuel in over 1000 hrs of operation in my > NSI EA-81 Subaru without any problems. > Peter Graichen > http:/home.neo.rr.com/n10pg/kitfox.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Peter Graichen" <n10pg(at)neo.rr.com>
Subject: Subaru EA-81
Date: Dec 03, 2006
Hello Dick: I use the aluminum radiator furnished by NSI which is 24 x 6 x 2 inch. I installed a 180 deg thermostat. I confirmed with extensive instrumented tests NSI's statement that the oil temperature is essentially always the same as or within a few degrees of the coolant temperature. Therefore an oil cooler is not required. Peter Graichen http:/home.neo.rr.com/n10pg/kitfox.htm I am curious to what size radiators are being used (Square inches) with success for proper cooling on a Subaru EA-81 engine with carburetors. Also is an oil cooler necessary? Thanks Dick ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jdmcbean" <jdmcbean(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Model II MTOW - Strut sizes
Date: Dec 03, 2006
Here are some pics of some of the current model testing that was done for the IV as well. http://www.kitfoxaircraft.com/testing information.htm Fly Safe !! John & Debra McBean 208.337.5111 www.kitfoxaircraft.com "It's not how Fast... It's how Fun!" -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Lowell Fitt Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 8:14 AM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Model II MTOW - Strut sizes In the sales brochure from the period I ordered my kit (1992) there is the picture mentioned, but I have never seen a discussion describing the test and the failure mode, except on the list. It shows a fuselage with wings, upside-down with bags of something that created bowing on both spars inboard of the strut and sagging outboard. There is also a picture of the horizontal Stabilizer, this time right side up with similar weights on it. Lowell ----- Original Message ----- From: "ron schick" <roncarolnikko(at)hotmail.com> Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 9:41 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Model II MTOW - Strut sizes > > > Rex I have that picture somewhere in My Avid builders manual. Never saw > it in all of my Kitfox materials. Perhaps there is one, but not in my > 92' speedster manual. Last time I scanned and posted I overdosed the Avid > photo section. Not very good at downsizing so if someone else finds one > first..... Ron NB Ore > > >>From: GypsyBeeInnkeepers <hefferans(at)gmail.com> >>Reply-To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com >>To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com >>Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Model II MTOW - Strut sizes >>Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 09:57:54 -0700 >> >> >> >>Somewhere in one of the old kitfox newsletters, from Denny Aircraft I >>believe, is a article with a picture of a kitfox wing mounted upside down >>to a test rig and a great many sand bags placed on the wing for a static >>load test. I think the wing structure supported the equivalent of over >>15G's before failure. Not sure how we should relate the test to this whole >>subject. >>I'm away from home and the article or I would offer to upload a copy. >>Maybe someone else has it? >> >>Rex Hefferan >>Colorado >> >> >>Noel Loveys wrote: >> >>>The stresses on the struts are tensional and I'm sure they are way over >>>2000lb tensional strength. ( 100% over stress for the weight of the >>>plane ) What is the diameter or you carry through tube? My rear support >>>legs are attached to the lower chines next to the carry through tube. I >>>haven't looked inside yet but I wouldn't be surprised to find a couple of >>>cluster welds there to distribute the stress of the rear float legs. >>> >>> >>>Noel >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> *From:* owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com >>> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *dave >>> *Sent:* Tuesday, November 28, 2006 3:02 PM >>> *To:* kitfox-list(at)matronics.com >>> *Subject:* Re: Kitfox-List: Model II MTOW - Strut sizes >>> >>> Noel, For referance my IV struts are 1.00 " -- no idea >>> on the >>> thickness. I would be concerned about the carry through diameter >>> and thickness as well. On Floats the carry through tube supports >>> the rear float support legs just behind the step as well as the >>> wing loads from the struts. I would call John McBean for >>> his insights. >>> Dave >>> >>> >>> ----- Original Message ----- >>> *From:* Noel Loveys >>> *To:* kitfox-list(at)matronics.com >>> >>> *Sent:* Tuesday, November 28, 2006 12:19 PM >>> *Subject:* RE: Kitfox-List: Model II MTOW >>> >>> My plane is #736 I know there is an "I" beam inside the >>> spars. the struts are .75" and I haven't had a chance yet to >>> check the carry through. The plane is on floats >>> and as the floats themselves will fly >>> their own weight I'm sure the plane can handle 1050lb. on >>> floats. the issue now becomes one of insurance. I've >>> contacted TC (Transport Canada) and they are willing to change >>> the gross weight for me. >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > _________________________________________________________________ > MSN Shopping has everything on your holiday list. Get expert picks by > style, age, and price. Try it! > http://shopping.msn.com/content/shp/?ctId00,ptnrid=176,ptnrdata 0601&tc ode=wlmtagline > > -- -- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 2006
From: PWilson <pwmac(at)sisna.com>
Subject: Re: Failure Point
Testing my memory but didn't they offer the aero tubing and 1/4x28 rod ends. The up grade was very expensive. Paul ============== At 09:29 AM 12/3/2006, you wrote: > >Jerry, > >Apples and oranges here. The failure with wrestle had to do with >the jack screw in the larger models that trimmed the horizontal >stabilizer. That is what failed. It had nothing to do with the >struts, though it is agreed that the larger models the struts had >been beefed up and possibly with the use of accepted AN fittings. > >I remember two - maybe more of the rod ends - rather the stud going >into the rod ends - failing and it was discovered on the ground >after a flight. I don't recall if there was a "feeling" in flight, >but it definitely was not a wrestle. There was an upgrade offered, >but I couldn't find a Service Letter or Bulletin on the issue. > >Lowell >----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerry Liles" <wliles(at)bayou.com> >To: >Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 6:26 PM >Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point > > >> >>While it never caused a crash that I'm aware of there were just too >>many incidents of failure of the horizontal stab rod ends to call >>it ok. I recall one incident a few years ago related by a member >>of the Kitfox list of having to wrestle his airplane back home as >>it suddenly wanted to descend and turn and he could not figure out >>why until someone on the list suggested he inspect the horizontal >>stab. If the forces had been a bit greater the stab might have >>twisted or fluttered and made the plane uncontrollable or stressed >>the rear rod end to failure. That might have hurt. As for the rod >>ends on the wings they seem to be trouble free and adequately >>strong and make it easier to correct any minor misalignments, >>certainly more so than on an Avid, though I had no problem with mine. >> >>dave wrote: >> >>> >>>Lowell, >>> >>>I agree on the horiz stab rod ends being ok. I think alot of >>>the problem might have been from the pilot pulling on it rather >>>than the grab handle ? >>> >>>As far as the wings, I agree they seem strong but the idea for 2 >>>rod ends on the strut if probably to make up for builing errors if >>>any as well as adjustment. . I have not heard of them coming >>>apart but I have broken them on other applications. They are tiny >>>compared to GA aircraft. That being said, has ther ever been an >>>in flight breakup of a Kitfox ? >>> >>> >>>Dave >>> >>> >>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net> >>>To: >>>Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 5:33 PM >>>Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point >>> >>> >>>> >>>>Jerry, >>>> >>>>Interesting. >>>> >>>>I still have the 3/16 rod ends on the foreward horizontal stab >>>>strut and it is part of my preflight check. >>>> >>>>Regarding stronger wings. I wonder if this is a plus, as the >>>>Kifox design with more "room for error" is a proven design as >>>>there have been no structural failures. If after about 15 years >>>>of uneventful use, would there be a reason to change the design? >>>> >>>>Lowell >>>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerry Liles" <wliles(at)bayou.com> >>>>To: >>>>Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 11:25 AM >>>>Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point >>>> >>>> >>>>> >>>>>Avid's, at least from the B model on, use one large size rod end >>>>>on the rear strut of the left wing to allow trimming. No other >>>>>rod ends are used in the wing or tail struts. Bolts in shear >>>>>take the loads. Kitfox had some problems with rod ends failing >>>>>in tail struts and finally went to beefier rod ends or simple >>>>>struts for the tail. Using straight struts in the Avid left >>>>>little room for error but resulted in a stronger wing and tail. >>>>>Jerry Liles >>>>> >>>>>Rex Shaw wrote: >>>>> >>>>>>Where did it fail ? >>>>>>The carry throguh tube would be one of the weakest links. >>>>>>Rod ends would be the next weakest link I think. If you look >>>>>>at the Avids >>>>>>they do not use rod ends. >>>>>> Dave >>>>>> Dave, >>>>>> I'm only going on memory here so please no one >>>>>> take it for gospel but I seem to remember the weakest link is >>>>>> the rod end but also here in Australia anyway we have Skyfox's >>>>>> that are rough copies of Kitfox's. These are apparently >>>>>> failing at the carry through tube and there is an AD out for >>>>>> that. I understand they have a weaker tube, maybe wall thickness not sure ! >>>>>> Also took my interest to read the Avid does not use rod >>>>>> ends. What do they do ? I assume just a bolt ! Is it in shear ? >>>>>> I think that loading the wing to failure point is on a video >>>>>> copied by Grant Fluent on this list. I guess anyone that wants >>>>>> a copy could first check with Grant that this is on the Video >>>>>> then buy a copy from him. I remember his price was extremely >>>>>> reasonable and there was a lot of interesting stuff on the DVD >>>>>> copy like loops and rolls in a Kitfox. >>>>>> >>>>>>Rex. >>>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 2006
From: Jerry Liles <wliles(at)bayou.com>
Subject: Re: Failure Point
Lowell There was an incident of tail strut failure in flight with difficulty maintaining steady level flight that was reported to this list. This was a Model 4, not a Model 5 with the jackscrew trim system. The correspondent couldn't figure out what had happened until someone (might have been me) asked him to inspect the tail lift struts. My point is failures have occurred for whatever reason and may well occur again. This is a type of failure that is survivable but is potentially disasterous. Kitfox (Skystar) finally upgraded the struts to larger rodend fittings. My feeling is the small rod end fittings on Model 4 are a known point of failure,whether from improper ground handling, improper assembly, or stress of flight, with potential for disaster and I would replace them. Back then the list manager had a reguarly updated message called "Kitfox Safe" where all the problems and potential problems and how to handle them were listed. Unfortunately I have a relatively new computer and I do not have a copy of Kitfox Safe. Perhaps someone else saved a copy? Jerry Liles Lowell Fitt wrote: > > Jerry, > > Apples and oranges here. The failure with wrestle had to do with the > jack screw in the larger models that trimmed the horizontal > stabilizer. That is what failed. It had nothing to do with the > struts, though it is agreed that the larger models the struts had been > beefed up and possibly with the use of accepted AN fittings. > > I remember two - maybe more of the rod ends - rather the stud going > into the rod ends - failing and it was discovered on the ground after > a flight. I don't recall if there was a "feeling" in flight, but it > definitely was not a wrestle. There was an upgrade offered, but I > couldn't find a Service Letter or Bulletin on the issue. > > Lowell > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerry Liles" <wliles(at)bayou.com> > To: > Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 6:26 PM > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point > > >> >> While it never caused a crash that I'm aware of there were just too >> many incidents of failure of the horizontal stab rod ends to call it >> ok. I recall one incident a few years ago related by a member of the >> Kitfox list of having to wrestle his airplane back home as it >> suddenly wanted to descend and turn and he could not figure out why >> until someone on the list suggested he inspect the horizontal stab. >> If the forces had been a bit greater the stab might have twisted or >> fluttered and made the plane uncontrollable or stressed the rear rod >> end to failure. That might have hurt. As for the rod ends on the >> wings they seem to be trouble free and adequately strong and make it >> easier to correct any minor misalignments, certainly more so than on >> an Avid, though I had no problem with mine. >> >> dave wrote: >> >>> >>> Lowell, >>> >>> I agree on the horiz stab rod ends being ok. I think alot of the >>> problem might have been from the pilot pulling on it rather than >>> the grab handle ? >>> >>> As far as the wings, I agree they seem strong but the idea for 2 >>> rod ends on the strut if probably to make up for builing errors if >>> any as well as adjustment. . I have not heard of them coming apart >>> but I have broken them on other applications. They are tiny >>> compared to GA aircraft. That being said, has ther ever been an in >>> flight breakup of a Kitfox ? >>> >>> >>> Dave >>> >>> >>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net> >>> To: >>> Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 5:33 PM >>> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point >>> >>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Jerry, >>>> >>>> Interesting. >>>> >>>> I still have the 3/16 rod ends on the foreward horizontal stab >>>> strut and it is part of my preflight check. >>>> >>>> Regarding stronger wings. I wonder if this is a plus, as the Kifox >>>> design with more "room for error" is a proven design as there have >>>> been no structural failures. If after about 15 years of uneventful >>>> use, would there be a reason to change the design? >>>> >>>> Lowell >>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerry Liles" <wliles(at)bayou.com> >>>> To: >>>> Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 11:25 AM >>>> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point >>>> >>>> >>>>> >>>>> Avid's, at least from the B model on, use one large size rod end >>>>> on the rear strut of the left wing to allow trimming. No other rod >>>>> ends are used in the wing or tail struts. Bolts in shear take the >>>>> loads. Kitfox had some problems with rod ends failing in tail >>>>> struts and finally went to beefier rod ends or simple struts for >>>>> the tail. Using straight struts in the Avid left little room for >>>>> error but resulted in a stronger wing and tail. >>>>> Jerry Liles >>>>> >>>>> Rex Shaw wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> Where did it fail ? >>>>>> The carry throguh tube would be one of the weakest links. >>>>>> Rod ends would be the next weakest link I think. If you look at >>>>>> the Avids >>>>>> they do not use rod ends. >>>>>> Dave >>>>>> Dave, >>>>>> I'm only going on memory here so please no one take >>>>>> it for gospel but I seem to remember the weakest link is the rod >>>>>> end but also here in Australia anyway we have Skyfox's that are >>>>>> rough copies of Kitfox's. These are apparently failing at the >>>>>> carry through tube and there is an AD out for that. I understand >>>>>> they have a weaker tube, maybe wall thickness not sure ! >>>>>> Also took my interest to read the Avid does not use rod ends. >>>>>> What do they do ? I assume just a bolt ! Is it in shear ? >>>>>> I think that loading the wing to failure point is on a video >>>>>> copied by Grant Fluent on this list. I guess anyone that wants a >>>>>> copy could first check with Grant that this is on the Video then >>>>>> buy a copy from him. I remember his price was extremely >>>>>> reasonable and there was a lot of interesting stuff on the DVD >>>>>> copy like loops and rolls in a Kitfox. >>>>>> >>>>>> Rex. >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "ron schick" <roncarolnikko(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: N914C
Date: Dec 03, 2006
Now a search and recovery. Witnesses reported a straight in about 300 yards offshore. I flew the coast more than an hour today and saw only sea lions and bubbles from the divers. Sonar arrives tommorow. Ron NB Ore _________________________________________________________________ View Athletes Collections with Live Search http://sportmaps.live.com/index.html?source=hmemailtaglinenov06&FORM=MGAC01 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ted Palamarek" <temco(at)telusplanet.net>
Subject: Failure Point
Date: Dec 03, 2006
Jerry I have all the KifoxSafe items and below is a pasted copy of Item 21 which deals with the horizontal stabilizer rod ends. Regards Ted ------------------------------------------------------- #21 3/25/98 (MAJOR) (MODEL IV'S ONLY) HORIZONTAL STABILIZER SUPPORT STRUTS BREAKING AT 3/16" THREADED END. Loss of horizontal stabilizer support and possible Elevator control. 1. Replace support struts and rod ends with ones that are equipped with 1/4" threaded ends. 2. Take extreme caution that the Horizontal Stabilizer is never used to move the Aircraft around on the ground. 3. Inspect frequently. 4. Look for a method to "BEEF" up the joint. 5. (AT THE REQUEST OF SS) SS has a 1/4" strut kit for sale at a price of $185. PART # 10581 ------------------------------------------------- -------SNIP------ Back then the list manager had a reguarly updated message called "Kitfox Safe" where all the problems and potential problems and how to handle them were listed. Unfortunately I have a relatively new computer and I do not have a copy of Kitfox Safe. Perhaps someone else saved a copy? Jerry Liles ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Vader" <vadert(at)telusplanet.net>
Subject: Re: Failure Point
Date: Dec 03, 2006
Ted Could you post a list or a file of all the KitfoxSafe items. I'd like to have a look at all of them. I haven't been on the list that long and have never seen the list. Thanks, Tim Vader Calgary ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ted Palamarek" <temco(at)telusplanet.net> Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2006 6:58 PM Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Failure Point > > > Jerry > > I have all the KifoxSafe items and below is a pasted copy of Item 21 which > deals with the horizontal stabilizer rod ends. > > Regards Ted > > ------------------------------------------------------- > #21 3/25/98 > > (MAJOR) (MODEL IV'S ONLY) HORIZONTAL STABILIZER > SUPPORT STRUTS BREAKING AT 3/16" THREADED END. Loss of horizontal > stabilizer support and possible Elevator control. > 1. Replace support struts and rod ends with ones that are equipped with > 1/4" > threaded ends. > 2. Take extreme caution that the Horizontal Stabilizer is never used to > move > the Aircraft around on the ground. > 3. Inspect frequently. > 4. Look for a method to "BEEF" up the joint. > 5. (AT THE REQUEST OF SS) SS has a 1/4" strut kit for sale at a price of > $185. PART # 10581 > ------------------------------------------------- > > > -------SNIP------ > Back then the list manager had a reguarly updated message called "Kitfox > Safe" where all the problems and potential problems and how to handle > them were listed. Unfortunately I have a relatively new computer and I > do not have a copy of Kitfox Safe. Perhaps someone else saved a copy? > > Jerry Liles > > > -- > 25/11/2006 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Pearsall" <donpearsall(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Failure Point
Date: Dec 03, 2006
Here is a list of "KitfoxSafe" items started by Don Smith. He put a lot of effort into it and deserves Kudos. Don Pearsall ______________ KITFOXSAFE CONCERNS AND COMMENTS This is a list of safety concerns submitted by Kitfox builders and compiled by Don Smythe KITFOXSAFE CONCERNS AND COMMENTS KITFOXSAFE CONCERNS AND COMMENTS ******************************** * NEW CONCERN * * THROTTLE CABLE CLUSTER SOCKETS * ******** #39 CONCERN: (MINOR) THROTTLE AND INJECTOR CABLES JUMPING THEIR SOCKETS; DATE: 11-23-99 IMPACT: The barrels on the ends of the cables have been know to jump out of the "sockets" at the throttle cluster. This will cause the throttles or oil injection functions to be extremely out of sync. "LIST": 1. Find a means (safety wire, tie wrap, etc.) to better hold the cable ends in the cluster sockets. ******** #38 CONCERN: (MINOR) (PRIMARILY 582??) ROTAX STARTER GEAR SPRING BREAKING; DATE: 9-30-99 IMPACT: Freezing up the Rotax starter and possible (but not likely) damage to starter and flywheel. "LIST": 1. Periodically lubricate the starter gear/shaft. 2. NOTE: Reportedly, the Rotax/SS manual recommends lubricating at each annual. 3. Possible choice for lubrication is motor cycle chain lube oil. It's designed with an anti-fling additive. Can be applied without removing engine/starter. ******** #37 CONCERN: (MINOR)(582 ONLY) ROTARY VALVE RESERVOIR HOSES FAILING; DATE: 7-23-99 IMPACT: Leaking or loss of rotary valve oil. Could result in engine damage "LIST": 1. Replace the original "braided" lines with an automotive type hose. 2. NOTE: The engine fitting is 7/16" whereas, the original hose is 3/8". This causes a stretching of the hose over the fitting and a potential stress point. Understand that 7/16" I.D. hose might be hard to locate. Try a farm products outlet for 7/16" ID hose. ******** #36 CONCERN: (MAJOR) MIL-6000 RUBBER FUEL LINES SWELLING SHUT; DATE: 7-22-99 IMPACT: Fuel starvation and engine failure. Recent incident resulted in significant reduced power at landing. Mil-6000 lines were 3 years old. Exterior inspection will not reveal the internal swelling. "LIST": 1. Change Mil-6000 fuel lines to an automotive type, Polyurethane, or Tygon (translucent yellow #F-40-40-A) 2. Replace fuel lines at each annual or every other annual 3. Perform periodic fuel flow rate test. 4. Note fuel flow rate with/without filters installed. Insure the addition of filters don't reduce fuel rates below spec (150% of max fuel usage). ******** #35 CONCERN: (MAJOR) GSC CTA PROP HUB PISTON BEARING FREEZING DATE: 7-19-99 IMPACT: There is a small bearing and piston in the prop hub that controls the pitch of the blades. This bearing has a recommended replacement of 100 hours. To date, two know failures have been reported to the list. One at 40 hours of service and the other at 5 hours. Bearing failure causes the blades to fail to a fine pitch and the ability to maintain altitude may be lost. "LIST": 1. Insure the failed (minimum) pitch will sustain flight. Adjust if possible. ******** #34 CONCERN: (MINOR)(PRIMARILY SERIES V) FIBERGLASS SEAT BREAKING RESULTING IN JAMMED CONTROL LINKAGE DATE: 6-29-99 IMPACT: Breaking of the seat or seat coming loose from the fuselage support tubes could result in the below control tubes becoming Jammed. A complete loss of control of the aircraft could occur. "LIST": 1. Ensure the seat is properly and securely attached to the fuselage tubing 2. Look at reinforcing the fiberglass seat in the areas where it attaches to the tubes 3. Provide full length support from top to bottom (seat lips) with either stainless strap or webbing of some sort. 4. Consider using metal hose clamps vice plastic tie wraps to secure the seat. 5. Inspect the seat frequently for signs of cracking. Especially after any hard landings. ******** #33 CONCERN: (MINOR) (532-582) FAILURE OF FLOAT GUIDES IN THE BING CARBS DATE: 6-29-99 IMPACT: There was a article concerning the small guides in the Bing carbs (floats) wearing due to vibration. Once the guides were worn, the float body starts to wear and pieces of the float found their way to the jets. The result is engine failure due to fuel starvation. The guide in question is the bottom one. "LISTS": Inspect the bottom and top guides where the push rod passes through the float body frequently. Repair/ replace if necessary. ******** #032 CONCERN: (MAJOR)(582ONLY) FAILURE OF PULSE DRIVEN FUEL PUMP DUE TO PULSE LINE / PUMP DIAPHRAGM DATE: 6-14-99 IMPACT: loss of engine due to failure of pump diaphragm or engine pulse line "LIST": 1. Check pulse line (and all fuel lines) frequently for cracks and signs of drying out. Replace as necessary. 2. Consider replacing pulse lines and all other fuel lines at regular annual intervals. 3. Consider overhauling or replacing the pulse operated fuel pump at some regular interval (annual/bi-annual,etc.) 4. Consider the addition of a back up electrical pump. 5. CAUTION; a ruptured pump diaphragm will cause the engine crankcase to flood with raw fuel through the engine pulse line. A backup elec pump installed in series with the fuel line will not help this situation. 6. CAUTION; a leaking pulse line could result in an extreme lean engine mixture. ******** #031 CONCERN: (MINOR) SEPARATION OF THE BUTT RIB CAPSTRIP FROM THE BUTT RIB DATE: 5-5-99 IMPACT: During moderate to severe turbulence, a Kitfox had its butt rib capstrip separate from the rest of the rib that left a 1/2" gap between the windshield and the butt rib. This condition could cause undo stress on the windshield and premature breakage. "LIST": Attach several short alum angle pieces on the inside of the butt rib that will tie the horizontal capstrip to the vertical rib. One member also used the alum pieces to attach "nut plates" where he then bolted the windshield to the capstrips vice pop-rivet. ******** #030 CONCERN: (MAJOR) SELECTION AND INSTALLATION OF FUEL FILTERS DATE: 5-3-99 IMPACT: Fuel starvation due to improper filters or installation. "LIST": 1. The glass Purolator filters are rated at 40-70 Micron. The 40 rating is 50% effective whereas the 70 rating is 98% effective. Possible good pre-filter at wing tank. 2. Never use filters without knowing the Micron rating. 3. Paper element filters can clog if subjected to water. 4. Fiberglass fragments are "invisible" to the eye in see through filters. ******** #029 CONCERN: (MAJOR) ELEVATOR TRIM MOTOR "HOUSING" BREAKING. (SERIES 5 ONLY) DATE: 3-8-99 IMPACT: Elevator is allowed to "flop" from limit to limit resulting in uncontrollable elevator. (one Kitfox lost to date. Unable to flare during landing) "LIST": 1. Inspect housing frequently for signs of cracking. 2. Investigate a method to limit the elevator travel if break occurs (cable, block, etc.). ******** #028 CONCERN: (MINOR) FLAPERON HINGE'S FREEZING DATE: 2-5-99 IMPACT: Loss of Flaperon control "LIST": 1. Lubricate with silicon or something to prevent water build up in the hinge area. 2. Prevent water intrusion in wet climates ******** #027 CONCERN: (MAJOR) ROTAX 912 ENGINE MOUNTS CRACKING DATE: 1/26/99 IMPACT: Loss of engine support "LIST": 1. Three failures have been reported. One was first hand and the other two were second hand reports. 2. Inspect carefully for any evidence of hairline cracks starting to occur in the ASTM 4130 Chrome Alloy tubing. 3. Re-weld and add sufficient additional support. ******** #026 CONCERN: (MINOR) POSSIBLE FUEL STARVATION DATE: 12/22/98 IMPACT: Some circumstances can cause fuel starvation from the wing tanks to the header tank "LIST": 1. Ensure a continuous "downward" routing of fuel lines from wing to header 2. Check filters frequently for fiberglass/Kreem particles 3. Be cautious with "paper" type filters in areas where water might be a factor. 4. Check fuel tank strainers frequently for particles. ******** #025 CONCERN: (MINOR) BROKEN/CRACKED MUFFLERS ON THE 912 DUE TO VIBRATION DATE: 12/01/98 IMPACT: Possible fire in the engine compartment or exhaust in cockpit "LIST": 1. Re-weld and "Beef" up joints by adding a steel bar to further support the exhaust pipe 2. Check at preflight by giving a tug on the exhaust pipe 3. NDT (Dye Penetrate) at annual ******** #024 CONCERN: (MAJOR) ROTAX 912 OIL PRESSURE REDUCTION/LOSS DATE: 11-19-98 IMPACT: Damage to engine or engine failure "LIST": John King's problem has been isolated to a crimped oil line caused by a hose clamp. The crimp was at a short section of line at the oil filter fitting. The Earl cooler appears "NOT" to be the problem. Other members are still investigating their causes. ******** #023 CONCERN: (MAJOR) FUEL TANK COATINGS, CRACKING (KREEM); DATE: 6-15-98 IMPACT: Engine failure; Fuel system contamination; "LIST": 1. Remove old Kreem with MEK/Acetone 2. Re-coat tanks with new (Kreem) OR NOT 3. Inspect tank interiors regular for signs of cracking or flaking of Kreem. 4. Inspect fuel samples for signs of white Kreem particles 5. Clean tank strainers regularly. 6. Replace fuel filters regularly. ******** #022 CONCERN: (MAJOR) FUEL TANKS; FIBERGLASS FRAGMENTS CLOGGING FILTERS; TRANSPARENT TO THE EYE THROUGH GLASS FILTERS DATE: 7-20-98 IMPACT: Engine failure; Clogged fuel system "LIST": 1. Replace filters regularly. 2. Cut open old filters and check for fragments and other debris. Fiberglass particles have been reported as transparent in the glass type filters. ******** #021 CONCERN: (MAJOR) (MODEL IV's ONLY) HORIZONTAL STABILIZER SUPPORT STRUTS BREAKING AT 3/16" THREADED END. DATE: 3-25-98 IMPACT: Loss of horizontal stabilizer support and possible Elevator control. "LIST": 1. Replace support struts and rod ends with ones that are equipped with 1/4" threaded ends. 2. Take extreme caution that the Horizontal Stabilizer is never used to move the Aircraft around on the ground. 3. Inspect frequently. 4. Look for a method to "BEEF" up the joint. ******** #020 CONCERN: (MAJOR) (PRIMARILY 912's ONLY) ROTAX IGNITION MODULES; WIRES BREAKING DATE: 3-25-98 IMPACT: Loss of ignition or, one half the ignition system "LIST": 1. Relocate ign modules from the engine to the firewall 2. Immobilize the Rotax wiring and provide extension harness of MIL-Spec wiring and connectors. ******** #019 CONCERN: (MAJOR) RUDDER/BRAKE CONTROL TUBING; BREAKING AT WELDS (SERIES IV ONLY) DATE: 12-7-98 IMPACT: Loss of Rudder and Brake control "LIST": 1. Install retrofit kit provided by Skystar 2. Install reinforcement straps around the tubing at the welded joints. Weld or rivet in place ******** #018 CONCERN: (MAJOR) RUDDER JAM DUE TO REAR LOCATED RUDDER ADJUSTMENT LINKS; DATE: 3-25-98 IMPACT: Possible rudder jam at full rudder "LIST": 1. Relocate the rudder pedal links to the pedal end. 2. Terminate the rudder cable on top of the rudder arm and provide safety strap. 3. SS changed the design on the model IV sometime around the beginning of 1996 and, this concern was corrected. ******** #017 CONCERN: (MAJOR) FUEL VALVE; "O" RING DETERIORATION DATE: 3-25-98 IMPACT: Engine failure due to "O" ring entering fuel line and causing fuel starvation "LIST": 1. Replace "O" rings with Viton material 2. Replace valve with Chrome ball and Teflon seat type construction; rated for gasoline. ******** #016 CONCERN: (MAJOR) RUDDER CABLE RUBBING ON RUDDER STOP DATE: 3-25-98 IMPACT: Wearing of the rudder cable; possible breakage and loss of rudder control "LIST": 1. Rudder jamming "concern" above. This correction also raises the cable to clear the rudder stop. 2. SS changed design on the model IV sometime around the first of 1996 and, this concern was corrected. ******** #015 CONCERN: (MINOR) FUSING OF THE BUS "FILTER CAPACITOR" DATE: 3-25-98 IMPACT: Shorted capacitor could result in "Bus" voltage being shorted to ground; Loss of 12VDC bus. "LIST": Add an inline fuse to the input of the filter capacitor. Will lose filter capability but maintain the Bus. ******** #014 CONCERN: (MINOR) LEAKING (POLY) HEADER TANKS DATE" 3-25-98 IMPACT: Fuel contamination in the Cockpit area. "LIST": 1. Apply small amount of heat to tank (poly) threads prior to sealing. 2. Use a good quality sealant ******** #013 CONCERN: (MAJOR/MINOR) THROTTLE CABLE "BALL" ENDS; BREAKING DATE: 3-25-98 IMPACT: (MAJ-582) Associated carburetor will fail "throttle shut"; engine failure. (MIN-912) Associated carburetor will fail full throttle causing rough engine. "LIST": Adjust throttle vernier so that positive stop of vernier hits "just" prior to carburetor cups reaching full travel. Allows the physical stop on the vernier to contact first and prevents stress to the cable "ball" ends at the carb cups. ******** #012 CONCERN: (MAJOR/MINOR) THROTTLE VERNIER CONNECTION TO THROTTLE CLUSTER; SLIPPING DATE: 3-25-98 IMPACT: Loss of throttle control. (MAJ-582) (MIN -912). See comments on "THROTTLE CABLE "BALL" ENDS; BREAKING "LIST": 1. Provide a more positive means to attach the solid wire (center of vernier) to the throttle cluster. 2. Provide any extra "bug" nut sleeve assy between the throttle cluster and the end of the outer throttle covering. Be careful not to interfere with the idle or full throttle operation of the Vernier. Adjust the location to give you approximatly 75% power (582) if the original bug nut fails or slips. 3. SET SCREW ( OVAL POINT).. IS DESIGNED TO APPLY PRESSURE WITHOUT CUTTING.. THIS IS THE PREFERRED SET SCREW FOR USE ON SMALL WIRES AND CABLES (i.e. throttle and brake cables).. AS THERE IS NO CUTTING SURFACE, CHANCES OF DAMAGING THE CABLE OR WIRE ARE GREATLY REDUCED. 4. SET SCREW ( CUP POINT). IS DESIGNED FOR USE WHERE SET SCREW MUST BITE INTO MATING SURFACE..(i.e. a pulley of a steel shaft).. IF THIS TYPE OF SET SCREW IS USED ON A FLEXIBLE CABLE OR SMALL WIRE IT CAN CAUSE DAMAGE. AS THIS SET SCREW CUTS INTO THE MATING SURFACE IT REDUCES THE STRENGTH OF THE CABLE/WIRE.. ON WIRES IT CAN CAUSE A "STRESS RISER" WHICH CAN LEAD TO A BREAK IN THE WIRE. 5. Try to use the "oval point" . If not available, drill the set screw hole slightly offset from the wire hole so the "Cup point" type won't cut into the wire. ******** #011 CONCERN: (MINOR) Fuel line and vents from wing tanks crimping DATE: 3-25-98 IMPACT: Engine failure due to fuel starvation and loss of vent. "LIST": 1. Ensure sufficient slack in lines for folding wings but, ensure line is continually going down hill from the wing tank to the header. 2. Inspect carefully for lines "approaching" a crimp 3. Investigate the installation of 90 degree fittings where lines perform excessive bending; example, the vent line. ******* #010 CONCERN: (MINOR) Not choosing to rib Lace the Wings DATE: 3-25-98 IMPACT: Separation of the fabric to the wing ribs during flight. "LIST": Skystar and Poly Fiber seem to differ on their opinions rib lacing. Skystar suggest rib lacing as an "Option". Poly Fiber considers rib lacing as "Essential". ******** #009 CONCERN: (MAJOR) TUBULAR MAIN LANDING GEAR WELDMENTS; CRACKING. DATE: 3-25-98 IMPACT: Uncontrollable aircraft upon landing "LIST": 1. Inspect weldment frequently for cracking. 2. Replace gear with the solid spring aluminum gear. ******* #008 CONCERN: (MAJOR) (PRE-93) CRACKING FLYWHEELS ON OLDER 582's DATE: 3-25-98 IMPACT: Engine destruction/failure "LIST": 1. Inspect flywheel at first opportunity for cracks radiating from the bolt holes. 2. Replace with new (heavier) flywheel. Rotax Bulletin??? refers. 3. Inspect at each annual. Engine removal and partial tear down preferred. Consider NDT (dye penetrate test) ******* #007 CONCERN: (MAJOR) ROTAX 912 ROCKER ARM SEIZURE DATE: 3-25-98 IMPACT: Loss of power in cylinders depending on No. of cylinders affected. possible damage to heads, valves, and pistons. "LIST": 1. remove and inspect rocker arms for evidence of scoring or seizure. 2. Replace with upgraded (Bronze Bushings) rocker arms and replacement shaft. 3. Inspect old arms every 200 hours and replace at 600 hours to maintain 1200 TBO ******* #006 CONCERN: (MINOR) BREAKING OF ROTAX EXHAUST SPRINGS DATE: 4-6-98 IMPACT: Loss of support for the exhaust system "LIST": 1. Inspect regularly and replace as necessary 2. Coat springs with high temp RTV 3. Look for a way to isolate the metal to metal contact???? ******* #005 CONCERN: (MAJOR) GASCOLATOR AND QUICK DRAIN "O" RINGS DATE: 4-8-98 IMPACT: Failed "O" rings can result in complete drainage of fuel supply and resultant loss of engine. "LIST": Inspect and/or replace all "O" rings in the gascolator and quick drain valves at each annual or more frequently as necessary. ******* #004 CONCERN: (MAJOR) ROTAX 912 CARB SOCKETS CRACKING DATE: 5-6-98 IMPACT: Rough running or failed engine "LIST": 1. Inspect the rubber carb sockets regularly for a secure fit and no cracking. 2. Consider replacing at regular intervals as necessary. ******* #003 CONCERN: (MAJOR) TAIL SPRING MOUNTING BRACKETS/BOLTS BREAKING DATE: 6-15-98 IMPACT: Loss of steering and tail control "LIST": 1. Inspect the fuselage tabs for cracks (especially after any hard landings). 2. Inspect the mounting bolts for signs of wear and replace if necessary. ******* #002 CONCERN: (MINOR) CLEVELAND BRAKE CYLINDERS SEPARATING DATE: 7-27-98 IMPACT: An aircraft (not Kitfox) had a Cleveland brake cylinder separate due to the "C" keeper ring coming loose. The separation resulted in the upper part of the cylinder rotating foreword and jamming against the firewall. This jamming locked up the rudder. The pilot received fatal injury. "LIST": (1) Place a safety cable from the bottom of the cylinder bolt hole to the top bolt hole. Adjust for no slack with cylinder in neutral position. The cable will prevent cylinder separation if keeper ring fails. The cable will "bow" away when brake pedal is pushed. ******* #001 CONCERN: (MAJOR) FRAYED AND BROKEN RUDDER CABLE (DURING LANDING) DATE: 8-26-98 IMPACT: Loss of rudder control and ability to apply brake "LIST": 1. If a rudder cable were to break, the opposite rudder spring will cause the pedal to be pulled hard against the firewall. This applies "unwanted" rudder and prevents the use of the toe brake. 2. Inspect cables frequently, especially around the pulley and guide tubes. 3. Never use MEK or such, to clean cables. It removes the internal lubrication. Lubricate cables around pulleys and guide tubes with graphite grease. 4. Provide a "stop" to prevent pedal from going hard against the firewall if a cable breaks. This will allow continued operation of the toe brakes to overcome "unwanted" rudder while on the ground. 5. Consider cable replacement as a periodic maintenance item. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "john perry" <eskflyer(at)lvcisp.com>
Subject: Re: N914C
Date: Dec 03, 2006
Ron You all are in my thoughts and prayers . Im sorry for your loss of a friend . JP ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ted Palamarek" <temco(at)telusplanet.net>
Subject: Failure Point
Date: Dec 03, 2006
Tim and Kitfox list Don posted from 1 to 39 and here are the rest of the items up to item #47. The first part is an index of the items as they pertain to various parts of the aircraft. Regards --- Ted K I T F O X S A F E # DATE ITEM COMMENTS *** ********* INDEX: HULL: #47 #46, #40, #39, #34, #31, #29, #28, #21, #19, #18, #16, #13, #12, #9, #3, #1 582: #45, #43, #38, #37, #33, #32, #8, 912: #27, #25, #24, #20, #7, #4 FUEL: #44, #36, #30, #26, #23, #22, #17, #14, #11, #5 PROP: #35, ELECTRICAL: #15 GENERAL: #42, #41, #10, #6, #2 #47 06/15/02 RUDDER PEDAL TORQUE TUBES BREAKING This is an addition to Item #19 where applicability is extended "ALL" model Kitfox. #46 06/18/02 (MAJOR) LOOSE RIVETS ON FLAPERON HORN ASSY. The rivets holding the flapperon horn to the flapperons has been discovers worn and loose on several aircraft. 1. Replace the rivets with "solid core" type 2. Apply 3M or equivalent adhesive during the installation. #45 (MAJOR) MISSING "SIEVE SLEEVES" IN BING CARBS (582 ONLY) Failure to install the "sieve sleeves" in the carb bowls will result in a very "lean" fuel mixture at high RPM's and may result in engine seizure. 1. Ensure sleeves are in good condition 2. Ensure the sleeves are in place on the tower each time you complete the jetting process or perform any carb maintenance. 3. The sleeves are not filters but, are for breaking up foam/bubbles in the gasoline formed by vibration. #44 (MINOR) MISSING OR LEAKING FUEL CAPS Can result in loss of fuel, uneven or, catastrophic flow of fuel. Unusual amount of fuel loss. Transfer of fuel from one tank to the other and over flowing. 1. Replace fuel cap gaskets with Mercedes-Benz part #140-471-00-79. 2. Ensure caps are installed correctly at each pre-flight. 3. Ensure the cap internal spring tabs are not bent or sprung to prevent a tight fit. 4. Not related to fuel loss but, Icing will clog the cap vent rather quickly and could reduce or prevent fuel flow from the tanks. #43 01/04/01 (MINOR) ROTAX 582LC OVERHEATING Engines have experienced overheating due to radiator size and location. A couple cases of thermostat failures have been reported. Engine overheat can result in engine seizure. 1. The original 582 radiator may be undersized for some climates and fail to provide adequate cooling. 2. Lowering the smaller radiator approximately 1" putting it more in the airstream, have been reported to improve cooling. 3. Going to the Rotax 618 radiator (larger) has improved cooling. 4. There has been at least, one report were the thermostat body had "broken" causing the thermostat to fail in the shut position. Suggest periodic inspections for metal stress to the thermostat body and possible replacement each conditional. #42 01/03/01 (MINOR) INACCURACIES OF ENGINE TACHOMETERS Faulty reading engine tachometers can result in premature engine wear or engine failure. 1. Tachometer accuracy can be affected by temperature, dirt, wear, electrical Interference, etc. 2. Check accuracy of tachometer at initial installation and periodically thereafter to determine reliability. 3. Verify prop speed with an optical tach. 4. One such problem reported in the Aviasport electronic tachometer for Rotax engine type 912, due to temperature variation. #41 04/17/00 (MINOR) PROTECTION OF OPEN FUEL, WATER, ETC. LINES DURING CONSTRUCTION During the construction phase of building, bugs, Spiders, and other insects/animals may build nest or Leave residue in open fuel, water, or other lines laying around with the ends unprotected. This applies to openings in radiators, engines, instruments and anyplace a small creature could take up residence. 1. Insure all lines, instrument openings, radiators, engine ports are taped or bagged during the building phase and even after installation on the aircraft. 2. Prior to final hook up, ensure lines are clear of any debris by blowing out with an air compressor or some other acceptable means. #40 12/21/99 (MINOR) ELEVATOR HINGE PINS FALLING OUT Some elevator hinge pins have "smaller" heads that will fit through the elev/stab weldments. In these cases, the hinge pins would require a "washer" on BOTH ends. Most are a tight fit and should not come out but, in case of wear, the pins "could" work out and. 1. Cut down the weldment width a little until the existing pins will be long enough to install a washer on both ends. OR, 2. Order new pins with a longer length that will take two washers. Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point Ted Could you post a list or a file of all the KitfoxSafe items. I'd like to have a look at all of them. I haven't been on the list that long and have never seen the list. Thanks, Tim Vader Calgary ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "QSS" <msm(at)byterocky.net>
Subject: N914C
Date: Dec 04, 2006
My sincere condolences Ron, I know time will help you come to terms with your loss. Regards Graeme Toft -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ron schick Sent: Monday, 4 December 2006 11:21 AM Subject: Kitfox-List: N914C Now a search and recovery. Witnesses reported a straight in about 300 yards offshore. I flew the coast more than an hour today and saw only sea lions and bubbles from the divers. Sonar arrives tommorow. Ron NB Ore _________________________________________________________________ View Athletes Collections with Live Search http://sportmaps.live.com/index.html?source=hmemailtaglinenov06&FORM=MGA C01 -- 27/11/2006 -- 27/11/2006 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe(at)cox.net>
Subject: KITFOXSAFE
Date: Dec 04, 2006
This is just a reminder to all list members that are seeing the KITFOXSAFE items for the first. Back in the old days, we used to spend a lot more time reporting problems and coming up with fixes on the list. Each item is a result of beating problems to death and pulling out the best of the recommended "opinions". So, this group of safety issues was a result of the list members only with little to no input from Skystar. All items were related to safety issues only. I guess we must have fixed all the problems since we don't seem to see as many anymore. Don Smythe ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Failure Point
Date: Dec 04, 2006
As I recall, the aero tubing was offered when I ordered - late 1992, and it was expensivce - the upgrade to a 1/4" fitting was offered after the reports of breakage. Lowell ----- Original Message ----- From: "PWilson" <pwmac(at)sisna.com> Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2006 4:25 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Failure Point > > Testing my memory but didn't they offer the aero tubing and 1/4x28 rod > ends. The > up grade was very expensive. > Paul > ============== > At 09:29 AM 12/3/2006, you wrote: >> >>Jerry, >> >>Apples and oranges here. The failure with wrestle had to do with the jack >>screw in the larger models that trimmed the horizontal stabilizer. That >>is what failed. It had nothing to do with the struts, though it is agreed >>that the larger models the struts had been beefed up and possibly with the >>use of accepted AN fittings. >> >>I remember two - maybe more of the rod ends - rather the stud going into >>the rod ends - failing and it was discovered on the ground after a flight. >>I don't recall if there was a "feeling" in flight, but it definitely was >>not a wrestle. There was an upgrade offered, but I couldn't find a >>Service Letter or Bulletin on the issue. >> >>Lowell ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jdmcbean" <jdmcbean(at)cableone.net>
Subject: N914C
Date: Dec 04, 2006
Ron, Our prayers and thoughts are with you and your friends family. Fly Safe !! John & Debra McBean 208.337.5111 www.kitfoxaircraft.com "It's not how Fast... It's how Fun!" -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of ron schick Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2006 6:21 PM Subject: Kitfox-List: N914C Now a search and recovery. Witnesses reported a straight in about 300 yards offshore. I flew the coast more than an hour today and saw only sea lions and bubbles from the divers. Sonar arrives tommorow. Ron NB Ore _________________________________________________________________ View Athlete's Collections with Live Search http://sportmaps.live.com/index.html?source=hmemailtaglinenov06&FORM=MGAC01 -- -- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh(at)rapidnet.com>
Subject: KITFOXSAFE
Date: Dec 04, 2006
Don, I know I speak for many others when I thank you for putting KIFOXSAFE together. It was a lot of work for you to sort through all the discussion to create a coherent report. We are sad to see you leaving the ranks of Kitfox owners. Randy . _____ From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don Smythe Sent: Monday, December 04, 2006 4:49 AM Subject: Kitfox-List: KITFOXSAFE This is just a reminder to all list members that are seeing the KITFOXSAFE items for the first. Back in the old days, we used to spend a lot more time reporting problems and coming up with fixes on the list. Each item is a result of beating problems to death and pulling out the best of the recommended "opinions". So, this group of safety issues was a result of the list members only with little to no input from Skystar. All items were related to safety issues only. I guess we must have fixed all the problems since we don't seem to see as many anymore. Don Smythe ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jimmie Blackwell" <JimmieBlackwell(at)austin.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Filters for 912UL
Date: Dec 04, 2006
John I appreciate the information on the NAPA filter. Would be interesting to know how many compression strokes you need to turn your engine to get a burp from the oil tank. To help protect an information source I would rather not post this on the list. Following is some information and observations I have made. This issue involves the newer black Rotax oil filters. An inside source told me that Rotax had stopped selling the black oil filters because someone discovered that some of the filters did not have an anti-drain back feature . To verify this I called the order line at Lockwood to order a filter and was told that they had rejected the last shipment of oil filters from Rotax and would have new ones in a couple of weeks. The order line could not/would not elaborate on the problem. This causes me to have concern about the quality control at Rotax. Additionally, without an anti-drain back function any debris inside the filter could flow right back into the engine and we certainly don't want that to happen. If anything is caught in the oil filter I want it to stay there. Will also share my observation between the Rotax oil filter and the Carquest 85056 oil filter. In the beginning when I acquired my plane I did two oil changes using the Carquest filter and noted that I had to turn my engine through about 30 compression strokes to get a burp out of the oil tank after the engine sat idle for a few days. Then I changed to the Rotax filter and found that I now had to turn the engine through at least 100 compression strokes to get a burp from the oil tank. In the last week I installed a Carquest filter and once again note that 30 compression strokes will get a burp from the oil tank even after the engine sat idle for 4 days. I realize there is an issue about bypass pressure of the Carquest or any other filter other than Rotax. Hopefully, in the near future I will be able to get the bypass pressure spec for the Rotax filter. To Phil Lockwood's credit he called me and we discussed the issue of the oil filters. While he and I did not agree completely on the oil filters, my opinion is that he is trying to do the right thing for his customers while staying within the boundaries he has to work ----- Original Message ----- From: JOHN May To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 6:05 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Oil Filters for 912UL Jimmie, This is John May iin Kalamazoo Michigan. I have a Model IV-1200 Speedster with a Rotax 912UL (approx 735 Hours). I am the second owner ( I bought it at 500 Hours). The original owner/builder told me to use the NAPA gold #1056 spin on oil filter. Every other oil change I have the oil analysis done by Blackstone. The oil analysis up to this point has always been in line with what is to be expected for its age. I want to do what is best for the engine so I am interested in what you have found out. John May Jimmie Blackwell wrote: In recent days I have done some research on oil filters and in particular Rotax filters versus Carquest and Wix filters. The results are ________________________________________________________________________________
From: skyflyte(at)comcast.net
Subject: Kitfox Load Testing
Date: Dec 04, 2006
Someone asked about Kitfox load testing and I found this picture in the 1992 Jan./Feb. issue of the Kitfox Times (the picture is small, 49.9KB). There is no mention about the total load on the wings, but those bags of sand probably weigh at least 100# each, maybe more! Since the date was 1992, I would think this is the Model IV wing, not the clipped wing Speedster. Mike Cannon N490MC
   Someone asked about Kitfox load testing and I found this picture in the 1992 Jan./Feb. issue of the Kitfox Times (the picture is small, 49.9KB).  There is no mention about the total load on the wings, but those bags of sand probably weigh at least 100# each, maybe more!  Since the date was 1992, I would think this is the Model IV wing, not the clipped wing Speedster.
   Mike Cannon
   N490MC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fox5flyer" <fox5flyer@i-star.com>
Subject: engine preheater
Date: Dec 04, 2006
Awhile back I asked for some tips on how to preheat my S5 Subaru. The Soob is a bit temperamental starting when the temp goes below 35f so I asked for a heater that had a blower that worked off of 12v and was small enough to carry with me in the airplane. Someone (thanks!) clued me in on the Zodi tent heater http://www.zodi.com/web-content/Consumer/zodihotvent.html so I bought one and today it got its first test. It took one hour to get the engine temp up to 50f from 22f. This is right out of the box with no mods or anything. It retails for $149, but I paid $110+sh. Just shop around. I saw where one went on ebay for $55, but I missed it. I just finished ordering 10 feet of flex tube so I can move the unit a little farther away from the airplane. The nice thing about it is that it doubles for a tent heater, duh! :-) Deke Mikado Michigan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rick Daniels" <rick(at)rickdaniels.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox Load Testing
Date: Dec 04, 2006
more pictures of load testing at www.kitfoxaircraft.com/Aircraft%20Kits.htm or log on to Kitfoxaircraft.com and click on aircraft kits then at the bottom click on testing information. Looks like the same picture but there are several more. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 04, 2006
From: JOHN May <jpm7940(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Oil Filters for 912UL
Jimmie, I will check out the number of compression strokes the next time I am at the airport. Just to be sure I understand what you mean by "burp" I think you mean the gurgleing noise it makes, is this correct? Do you mean when you first hear the gurgle? I will have to check it out but my guess is that 30 is about right for my filter also. The only time I turn the engine that many strokes is after I change the oil and I am trying to make sure the system is filled before I start it up. John May from Kalamazoo ( Model IV-1200 912 UL N48PN ) Jimmie Blackwell wrote: John I appreciate the information on the NAPA filter. Would be interesting to know how many compression strokes you need to turn your engine to get a burp from the oil tank. To help protect an information source I would rather not post this on the list. Following is some information and observations I have made. This issue involves the newer black Rotax oil filters. An inside source told me that Rotax had stopped selling the black oil filters because someone discovered that some of the filters did not have an anti-drain back feature . To verify this I called the order line at Lockwood to order a filter and was told that they had rejected the last shipment of oil filters from Rotax and would have new ones in a couple of weeks. The order line could not/would not elaborate on the problem. This causes me to have concern about the quality control at Rotax. Additionally, without an anti-drain back function any debris inside the filter could flow right back into the engine and we certainly don't want that to happen. If anything is caught in the oil filter I want it to stay there. Will also share my observation between the Rotax oil filter and the Carquest 85056 oil filter. In the beginning when I acquired my plane I did two oil changes using the Carquest filter and noted that I had to turn my engine through about 30 compression strokes to get a burp out of the oil tank after the engine sat idle for a few days. Then I changed to the Rotax filter and found that I now had to turn the engine through at least 100 compression strokes to get a burp from the oil tank. In the last week I installed a Carquest filter and once again note that 30 compression strokes will get a burp from the oil tank even after the engine sat idle for 4 days. I realize there is an issue about bypass pressure of the Carquest or any other filter other than Rotax. Hopefully, in the near future I will be able to get the bypass pressure spec for the Rotax filter. To Phil Lockwood's credit he called me and we discussed the issue of the oil filters. While he and I did not agree completely on the oil filters, my opinion is that he is trying to do the right thing for his customers while staying within the boundaries he has to work ----- Original Message ----- From: JOHN May To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 6:05 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Oil Filters for 912UL Jimmie, This is John May iin Kalamazoo Michigan. I have a Model IV-1200 Speedster with a Rotax 912UL (approx 735 Hours). I am the second owner ( I bought it at 500 Hours). The original owner/builder told me to use the NAPA gold #1056 spin on oil filter. Every other oil change I have the oil analysis done by Blackstone. The oil analysis up to this point has always been in line with what is to be expected for its age. I want to do what is best for the engine so I am interested in what you have found out. John May Jimmie Blackwell wrote: In recent days I have done some research on oil filters and in particular Rotax filters versus Carquest and Wix filters. The results are href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List">http://www.matron ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rexster" <runwayrex(at)juno.com>
Date: Dec 05, 2006
Subject: Search for oil leak
Anybody know a procedure for locating an oil leak? Every time I fly lately, there's a couple streaks coming out of my cowl. I cleaned the engine and ran it for fifteen minutes to pinpoint the location, but it wouldn't leak. So I took it up and it leaked again, in the vacinity of the oil cooler, sending unit, oil pump, gearbox etc. Next, I blocked off the overflow line at the tank and put compressed air in the oil tank. Still no leaks. Since the pump pressurizes the system to about 60 psi, am I safe putting that amount in at the oil tank to test for leaks? The engine is the 912 UL. I sure am open to new ideas. Thanks in advance,Rex in Michigan
Anybody know a procedure for locating an oil leak? Every time I fly lately, there's a couple streaks coming out of my cowl. I cleaned the 
      
engine and ran it for fifteen minutes to pinpoint the location, but
it wouldn't leak.
So I took it up and it leaked again, in the vac inity of the oil cooler,
sending unit, oil pump, gearbox etc. Next, I blocked off the overflow
line at the tank and put compressed air in the oil tank. Still no
leaks. Since the pump pressurizes the system to about 60 psi, am I
safe putting that amount in at the oil tank t o test for leaks? The
engine is the 912 UL. I sure am open to new id eas.
Thanks in advance,
Rex in 
      Michigan 

      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 04, 2006
From: Alan Daniels <aldaniels(at)fmtcblue.com>
Subject: Re: Search for oil leak
The best way is to go to your local auto parts store and get a dye for the oil. It shows up under black light and/or colored glasses. Clean the engine and area with solvent, add the dye to the oil and run for a short while and it should be easy to find. Rexster wrote: > *Anybody know a procedure for locating an oil leak? Every time I fly > lately, there's a couple streaks coming out of my cowl. I cleaned the > engine and ran it for fifteen minutes to pinpoint the location, but > it wouldn't leak. > So I took it up and it leaked again, in the vacinity of the oil cooler, > sending unit, oil pump, gearbox etc. Next, I blocked off the overflow > line at the tank and put compressed air in the oil tank. Still no > leaks. Since the pump pressurizes the system to about 60 psi, am I > safe putting that amount in at the oil tank to test for leaks? The > engine is the 912 UL. I sure am open to new ideas. * > *Thanks in advance,* > *Rex in Michigan * > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Kitfox Upgrades
From: "crazyivan" <dmivezic(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 04, 2006
To the "experts" on this list (self-proclaimed or otherwise) I am planning on doing some upgrades to my Speedster. I want to get your take on them, especially if you have first-hand knowledge, and tell me (us all) if they are worth the money/work. -Solid Lexan turtledeck. The original one leaks. -KingFox tundra tires. -8" Pneumatic Matco tailwheel (instead of the rubber puck) -Oil thermostat for the 914UL. I have aluminum tape on it now for the winter but the temp decreases considerably when I'm in a power-off descent. -A cargo pod or those under-the-seat storage bins that Kitfox has on their website. Which one do you like better? Whaddya think? -------- Dave Speedster 912 UL Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=79193#79193 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Malcolmbru(at)AOL.COM
Date: Dec 04, 2006
Subject: Re: Kitfox Upgrades tires
the tires may be a little lite for the speedster I have a set on my model 2 mal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jeff puls" <pulsair(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Filters for 912UL
Date: Dec 04, 2006
John, I use a non-Rotax filter and it takes me from 175 to 230 strokes before I hear a gurgle. Jeff 912UL Columbus, Ohio ----- Original Message ----- From: JOHN May To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, December 04, 2006 6:17 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Oil Filters for 912UL Jimmie, I will check out the number of compression strokes the next time I am at the airport. Just to be sure I understand what you mean by "burp" I think you mean the gurgleing noise it makes, is this correct? Do you mean when you first hear the gurgle? I will have to check it out but my guess is that 30 is about right for my filter also. The only time I turn the engine that many strokes is after I change the oil and I am trying to make sure the system is filled before I start it up. John May from Kalamazoo ( Model IV-1200 912 UL N48PN ) Jimmie Blackwell wrote: John I appreciate the information on the NAPA filter. Would be interesting to know how many compression strokes you need to turn your engine to get a burp from the oil tank. To help protect an information source I would rather not post this on the list. Following is some information and observations I have made. This issue involves the newer black Rotax oil filters. An inside source told me that Rotax had stopped selling the black oil filters because someone discovered that some of the filters did not have an anti-drain back feature . To verify this I called the order line at Lockwood to order a filter and was told that they had rejected the last shipment of oil filters from Rotax and would have new ones in a couple of weeks. The order line could not/would not elaborate on the problem. This causes me to have concern about the quality control at Rotax. Additionally, without an anti-drain back function any debris inside the filter could flow right back into the engine and we certainly don't want that to happen. If anything is caught in the oil filter I want it to stay there. Will also share my observation between the Rotax oil filter and the Carquest 85056 oil filter. In the beginning when I acquired my plane I did two oil changes using the Carquest filter and noted that I had to turn my engine through about 30 compression strokes to get a burp out of the oil tank after the engine sat idle for a few days. Then I changed to the Rotax filter and found that I now had to turn the engine through at least 100 compression strokes to get a burp from the oil tank. In the last week I installed a Carquest filter and once again note that 30 compression strokes will get a burp from the oil tank even after the engine sat idle for 4 days. I realize there is an issue about bypass pressure of the Carquest or any other filter other than Rotax. Hopefully, in the near future I will be able to get the bypass pressure spec for the Rotax filter. To Phil Lockwood's credit he called me and we discussed the issue of the oil filters. While he and I did not agree completely on the oil filters, my opinion is that he is trying to do the right thing for his customers while staying within the boundaries he has to work ----- Original Message ----- From: JOHN May To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 6:05 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Oil Filters for 912UL Jimmie, This is John May iin Kalamazoo Michigan. I have a Model IV-1200 Speedster with a Rotax 912UL (approx 735 Hours). I am the second owner ( I bought it at 500 Hours). The original owner/builder told me to use the NAPA gold #1056 spin on oil filter. Every other oil change I have the oil analysis done by Blackstone. The oil analysis up to this point has always been in line with what is to be expected for its age. I want to do what is best for the engine so I am interested in what you have found out. John May Jimmie Blackwell wrote: ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Unternaehrer" <shilocom(at)mcmsys.com>
Subject: Re: Search for oil leak
Date: Dec 04, 2006
Talcum powder sometimes helps on diesel fuel leaks and also oil. Bob U. ----- Original Message ----- From: Rexster To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, December 04, 2006 7:36 PM Subject: Kitfox-List: Search for oil leak Anybody know a procedure for locating an oil leak? Every time I fly lately, there's a couple streaks coming out of my cowl. I cleaned the engine and ran it for fifteen minutes to pinpoint the location, but it wouldn't leak.So I took it up and it leaked again, in the vacinity of the oil cooler, sending unit, oil pump, gearbox etc. Next, I blocked off the overflowline at the tank and put compressed air in the oil tank. Still no leaks. Since the pump pressurizes the system to about 60 psi, am I safe putting that amount in at the oil tank to test for leaks? The engine is the 912 UL. I sure am open to new ideas. Thanks in advance,Rex in Michigan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jimmie Blackwell" <JimmieBlackwell(at)austin.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Filters for 912UL
Date: Dec 04, 2006
John Yes, the gurgle is what I am referring to. I am still amazed and puzzedled by the difference between the number of compression stokes needed to get the, "burp or gurgle", from the Rotax and Carquest filters. I think we are close to discovering something significant. Please keep me informed. Thank you. Jimmie ----- Original Message ----- From: JOHN May To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, December 04, 2006 5:17 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Oil Filters for 912UL Jimmie, I will check out the number of compression strokes the next time I am at the airport. Just to be sure I understand what you mean by "burp" I think you mean the gurgleing noise it makes, is this correct? Do you mean when you first hear the gurgle? I will have to check it out but my guess is that 30 is about right for my filter also. The only time I turn the engine that many strokes is after I change the oil and I am trying to make sure the system is filled before I start it up. John May from Kalamazoo ( Model IV-1200 912 UL N48PN ) Jimmie Blackwell wrote: John I appreciate the information on the NAPA filter. Would be interesting to know how many compression strokes you need to turn your engine to get a burp from the oil tank. To help protect an information source I would rather not post this on the list. Following is some information and observations I have made. This issue involves the newer black Rotax oil filters. An inside source told me that Rotax had stopped selling the black oil filters because someone discovered that some of the filters did not have an anti-drain back feature . To verify this I called the order line at Lockwood to order a filter and was told that they had rejected the last shipment of oil filters from Rotax and would have new ones in a couple of weeks. The order line could not/would not elaborate on the problem. This causes me to have concern about the quality control at Rotax. Additionally, without an anti-drain back function any debris inside the filter could flow right back into the engine and we certainly don't want that to happen. If anything is caught in the oil filter I want it to stay there. Will also share my observation between the Rotax oil filter and the Carquest 85056 oil filter. In the beginning when I acquired my plane I did two oil changes using the Carquest filter and noted that I had to turn my engine through about 30 compression strokes to get a burp out of the oil tank after the engine sat idle for a few days. Then I changed to the Rotax filter and found that I now had to turn the engine through at least 100 compression strokes to get a burp from the oil tank. In the last week I installed a Carquest filter and once again note that 30 compression strokes will get a burp from the oil tank even after the engine sat idle for 4 days. I realize there is an issue about bypass pressure of the Carquest or any other filter other than Rotax. Hopefully, in the near future I will be able to get the bypass pressure spec for the Rotax filter. To Phil Lockwood's credit he called me and we discussed the issue of the oil filters. While he and I did not agree completely on the oil filters, my opinion is that he is trying to do the right thing for his customers while staying within the boundaries he has to work ----- Original Message ----- From: JOHN May To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 6:05 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Oil Filters for 912UL Jimmie, This is John May iin Kalamazoo Michigan. I have a Model IV-1200 Speedster with a Rotax 912UL (approx 735 Hours). I am the second owner ( I bought it at 500 Hours). The original owner/builder told me to use the NAPA gold #1056 spin on oil filter. Every other oil change I have the oil analysis done by Blackstone. The oil analysis up to this point has always been in line with what is to be expected for its age. I want to do what is best for the engine so I am interested in what you have found out. John May Jimmie Blackwell wrote: ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh(at)rapidnet.com>
Subject: Oil Filters for 912UL
Date: Dec 04, 2006
Jimmie, This puzzles the heck out of me too!!! My understanding of "dry sump" engines is that it is the blow-by from the compression stroke that pressures the crankcase and pushes the oil out and back to the external reservoir. Couple that with the speculated difference in the filters - the different pressures of the relief valve - and,,,,, What does the amount of blow-by have to do with whether all the oil goes through the filter or not? The number of compression strokes should have everything to do with ring leakage and nothing to do with by-passing the oil filter. ??????? I owe you an apology. My engine takes about 20 - 27 blades (about 35 compressions?) with the rotax filters or with the CarQuest filters. Less in the summer time than in the winter. I check the oil every time I fly. I though you had been smoking something until Jeff came up with a different number too. But he claims an unspecified non-rotax filter. I need someone to explain this to me. I must not understand something here. And I think it is important to understand this. I have been trying to get info on the pressure values for the pressure relief valves. It is not easy to come by! Randy . _____ From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jimmie Blackwell Sent: Monday, December 04, 2006 8:54 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Oil Filters for 912UL John Yes, the gurgle is what I am referring to. I am still amazed and puzzedled by the difference between the number of compression stokes needed to get the, "burp or gurgle", from the Rotax and Carquest filters. I think we are close to discovering something significant. Please keep me informed. Thank you. Jimmie ----- Original Message ----- From: JOHN May <mailto:jpm7940(at)sbcglobal.net> Sent: Monday, December 04, 2006 5:17 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Oil Filters for 912UL Jimmie, I will check out the number of compression strokes the next time I am at the airport. Just to be sure I understand what you mean by "burp" I think you mean the gurgleing noise it makes, is this correct? Do you mean when you first hear the gurgle? I will have to check it out but my guess is that 30 is about right for my filter also. The only time I turn the engine that many strokes is after I change the oil and I am trying to make sure the system is filled before I start it up. John May from Kalamazoo ( Model IV-1200 912 UL N48PN ) Jimmie Blackwell wrote: John I appreciate the information on the NAPA filter. Would be interesting to know how many compression strokes you need to turn your engine to get a burp from the oil tank. To help protect an information source I would rather not post this on the list. Following is some information and observations I have made. This issue involves the newer black Rotax oil filters. An inside source told me that Rotax had stopped selling the black oil filters because someone discovered that some of the filters did not have an anti-drain back feature . To verify this I called the order line at Lockwood to order a filter and was told that they had rejected the last shipment of oil filters from Rotax and would have new ones in a couple of weeks. The order line could not/would not elaborate on the problem. This causes me to have concern about the quality control at Rotax. Additionally, without an anti-drain back function any debris inside the filter could flow right back into the engine and we certainly don't want that to happen. If anything is caught in the oil filter I want it to stay there. Will also share my observation between the Rotax oil filter and the Carquest 85056 oil filter. In the beginning when I acquired my plane I did two oil changes using the Carquest filter and noted that I had to turn my engine through about 30 compression strokes to get a burp out of the oil tank after the engine sat idle for a few days. Then I changed to the Rotax filter and found that I now had to turn the engine through at least 100 compression strokes to get a burp from the oil tank. In the last week I installed a Carquest filter and once again note that 30 compression strokes will get a burp from the oil tank even after the engine sat idle for 4 days. I realize there is an issue about bypass pressure of the Carquest or any other filter other than Rotax. Hopefully, in the near future I will be able to get the bypass pressure spec for the Rotax filter. To Phil Lockwood's credit he called me and we discussed the issue of the oil filters. While he and I did not agree completely on the oil filters, my opinion is that he is trying to do the right thing for his customers while staying within the boundaries he has to work ----- Original Message ----- From: JOHN May <mailto:jpm7940(at)sbcglobal.net> Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 6:05 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Oil Filters for 912UL Jimmie, This is John May iin Kalamazoo Michigan. I have a Model IV-1200 Speedster with a Rotax 912UL (approx 735 Hours). I am the second owner ( I bought it at 500 Hours). The original owner/builder told me to use the NAPA gold #1056 spin on oil filter. Every other oil change I have the oil analysis done by Blackstone. The oil analysis up to this point has always been in line with what is to be expected for its age. I want to do what is best for the engine so I am interested in what you have found out. John May Jimmie Blackwell wrote: href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref "http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List">http://www.matron ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 04, 2006
From: Alan Daniels <aldaniels(at)fmtcblue.com>
Subject: Re: Conventional Vs Tail and other training
Its nice to see familiar names on the list as I have been off for half a year due to work. This thing about which end the little wheel should be on comes up every year or so. We fly these things for fun so put it where you want it. The only real reason to put it on the back is for landing soft or rough, and I am not referring to sod or packed dirt. If you need 8:50 or 26 inch tires to keep from digging in then you need the little wheel on the back, but I have put my Vixen in most of the Idaho back country strips with no concern. The advantage in that it handles like a go cart on the ground and will take a lot of cross wind. The tail wheel version is easy if you make sure that there is no toe in, that you land slow enough, and maybe most importantly if you are landing on pavement that your air pressure is down in the mains - 10 to 15 pounds, and up towards the limit in the tailwheel. If anyone is interested and in my area I have two model 5's in my hangar, with the little wheel on different ends that I would be happy to take you flying in each so you can see for yourself. However if you are here you are also just a few minutes from the factory and John can show you also. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fox5flyer" <fox5flyer@i-star.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox Upgrades
Date: Dec 05, 2006
All of those sound like nice upgrades Dave, but ask yourself just one question. Are they necessary? The reason I say this is because every one of them adds weight. I can't speak personally for the under seat bins, but my recollection is that they're a PITA just to get to. >From one who added too many unnecessary things. Deke > > To the "experts" on this list (self-proclaimed or otherwise) I am planning on doing some upgrades to my Speedster. I want to get your take on them, especially if you have first-hand knowledge, and tell me (us all) if they are worth the money/work. > > -Solid Lexan turtledeck. The original one leaks. > -KingFox tundra tires. > -8" Pneumatic Matco tailwheel (instead of the rubber puck) > -Oil thermostat for the 914UL. I have aluminum tape on it now for the winter but the temp decreases considerably when I'm in a power-off descent. > -A cargo pod or those under-the-seat storage bins that Kitfox has on their website. Which one do you like better? > > Whaddya think? > > -------- > Dave > Speedster 912 UL > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=79193#79193 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fox5flyer" <fox5flyer@i-star.com>
Subject: Oil Filters for 912UL
Date: Dec 05, 2006
It may simply be the quality and fit of the check valve in the filter. It's there to keep the oil from draining back to the engine so the filter is always full. Some filters are more effective than others and it may even vary from filter to filter. If someone has a Rotax filter and a Wix (or Fram, etc.) just cut the two apart and compare the internals. I'd bet there is a difference. Also, since the 912 is a dry sump operation there has to be some sort of a check valve in the plumbing to the reservoir too. That may need replacing if it isn't sealing properly. Deke John Yes, the gurgle is what I am referring to. I am still amazed and puzzedled by the difference between the number of compression stokes needed to get the, "burp or gurgle", from the Rotax and Carquest filters. I think we are close to discovering something significant. Please keep me informed. Thank you. Jimmie ----- Original Message ----- From: JOHN May To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, December 04, 2006 5:17 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Oil Filters for 912UL Jimmie, I will check out the number of compression strokes the next time I am at the airport. Just to be sure I understand what you mean by "burp" I think you mean the gurgleing noise it makes, is this correct? Do you mean when you first hear the gurgle? I will have to check it out but my guess is that 30 is about right for my filter also. The only time I turn the engine that many strokes is after I change the oil and I am trying to make sure the system is filled before I start it up. John May from Kalamazoo ( Model IV-1200 912 UL N48PN ) ...snip... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fox5flyer" <fox5flyer@i-star.com>
Subject: Fw: Oil Filters for 912UL
Date: Dec 05, 2006
The below link has an enormous amount of information on oil filters that should enable one to make informed decisions regarding oil filter choices rather than anecdotal. Deke http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html ----- Original Message ----- From: Fox5flyer Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 7:27 AM Subject: Oil Filters for 912UL It may simply be the quality and fit of the check valve in the filter. It's there to keep the oil from draining back to the engine so the filter is always full. Some filters are more effective than others and it may even vary from filter to filter. If someone has a Rotax filter and a Wix (or Fram, etc.) just cut the two apart and compare the internals. I'd bet there is a difference. Also, since the 912 is a dry sump operation there has to be some sort of a check valve in the plumbing to the reservoir too. That may need replacing if it isn't sealing properly. Deke John Yes, the gurgle is what I am referring to. I am still amazed and puzzedled by the difference between the number of compression stokes needed to get the, "burp or gurgle", from the Rotax and Carquest filters. I think we are close to discovering something significant. Please keep me informed. Thank you. Jimmie ----- Original Message ----- From: JOHN May To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, December 04, 2006 5:17 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Oil Filters for 912UL Jimmie, I will check out the number of compression strokes the next time I am at the airport. Just to be sure I understand what you mean by "burp" I think you mean the gurgleing noise it makes, is this correct? Do you mean when you first hear the gurgle? I will have to check it out but my guess is that 30 is about right for my filter also. The only time I turn the engine that many strokes is after I change the oil and I am trying to make sure the system is filled before I start it up. John May from Kalamazoo ( Model IV-1200 912 UL N48PN ) ...snip... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 05, 2006
Subject: Re: Kitfox Upgrades
From: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>
I added one "under-seat" bin, on the passenger side, and it works ok....PITA to install, but not too bad to use. The seat must be empty of course, but after that it's just a matter of (in my plane, that is) lifting the seat cushion/upholstery and lifting the hinged lid. I keep my fuel sump drain device, a funnel, a few tools, a rag, windshield cleaner, and a quart of oil if I'm heading far away...a "flat" quart that is...a "round" quart won't fit. There is a little room left, but not much, because it's a tapered compartment. Lynn On Tuesday, December 5, 2006, at 07:14 AM, Fox5flyer wrote: > > All of those sound like nice upgrades Dave, but ask yourself just one > question. Are they necessary? The reason I say this is because every > one > of them adds weight. I can't speak personally for the under seat > bins, but > my recollection is that they're a PITA just to get to. >> From one who added too many unnecessary things. > Deke > >> >> To the "experts" on this list (self-proclaimed or otherwise) I am >> planning > on doing some upgrades to my Speedster. I want to get your take on > them, > especially if you have first-hand knowledge, and tell me (us all) if > they > are worth the money/work. >> >> -Solid Lexan turtledeck. The original one leaks. >> -KingFox tundra tires. >> -8" Pneumatic Matco tailwheel (instead of the rubber puck) >> -Oil thermostat for the 914UL. I have aluminum tape on it now for the > winter but the temp decreases considerably when I'm in a power-off > descent. >> -A cargo pod or those under-the-seat storage bins that Kitfox has on >> their > website. Which one do you like better? >> >> Whaddya think? >> >> -------- >> Dave >> Speedster 912 UL >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=79193#79193 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 05, 2006
From: Nick Scholtes <Nick(at)Scholtes1.com>
Subject: Oil Filter Thoughts
Randy and Jimmie, I've been following this oil filter thread a bit, and couldn't help jumpi ng in a bit. I'm not an oil-filter expert by any means, so I'm kinda' sp eculating here, but here goes: I believe that the "number of compression strokes" and the "different pre ssure relief value" are totally different issues, and are totally unrelat ed. I also believe that the alleged "different pressure relieve value" o f the Rotax filter is no reason whatsoever to purchase the Rotax filter, but it's the only thing that Rotax can point to to differentiate their fi lter and justify their price. An oil filter's pressure relief system is a safety system and it only com es into play when the filter is completely clogged, and the pressure acro ss the filter builds to the point where the filter may burst (or the engi ne may be damaged due to all of the pressure drop being across the filter ). The filter has a valve in it that will open, bypassing the "filter" p art, and simply allowing oil to flow past, unfiltered. Again, this only happens in a non-normal situation, and will only be brought on by the fil ter producing enough resistance to the oil flow that the pressure across the filter builds high enough to pop the bypass valve. And I emphasize t hat the pressure across the filter is what matters, just because a motor has a high pressure oil pump doesn't mean that the bypass valve should be bypassing, even with a high pressure oil pump the filter should still be able to flow enough volume of oil to keep the pressure drop across the f ilter to a minimum. In an aircraft situation where the oil is changed religiously and the eng ine is maintained well, I just don't see the relief valve ever coming int o play, and in the odd situation that it would, the value is somewhat irr elevant, as long as it goes into bypass before there's a catastrophic f ailure, that's all that matters. So, CarQuest or Rotax, who is to say th at one picked a better pressure bypass number than the other? I want a b ypass value high enough that it NEVER goes into bypass in normal operatio n. Anyway, in my opinion, there are several things that can differentiate an oil filter: The "fineness" of the filter (usually measured in microns), the quality and hence longevity of the filter material, and the bypass p ressure value. The bypass pressure value is a non-issue, in my opinion. The "fineness" could be what is contributing to the different number of c ompression strokes, maybe the Rotax filter has a finer mesh than the CarQ uest. After I wrote the above, I did a Google search on "How an oil filter work s", and there are a couple of really good pages there that talk about the bypass valve, and also a different type of filtering technique called "b ypass filtering" (not related to the bypass valve), and pages that talk a bout differences in fineness, and also differences in quality. Interesti ng reading on this topic. Nick From: "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh(at)rapidnet.com> Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Oil Filters for 912UL Jimmie, What does the amount of blow-by have to do with whether all the oil goes through the filter or not? The number of compression strokes should have everything to do with ring leakage and nothing to do with by-passing the oil filter. ??????? I have been trying to get info on the pressure values for the pressure relief valves. It is not easy to come by! Randy =2E ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 05, 2006
From: "Margaret Hastedt" <hastedt(at)iodp.tamu.edu>
Subject: Re: Kitfox Upgrades
I also bought the under-seat bin, but opted to cut out the front of it instead. I installed a fabric front panel with elastic at the top so that I can just reach in, but it keeps stuff from coming out accidentally. I wanted to be able to access it in flight even with a passenger present. You're right, not much space, but it's good for maps and fuel strainers and stuff like that. The "big stuff" goes in the baggage sack. For that I made a lightweight stiffening frame out of 3/8" aluminum tubing with some thin plastic pop-riveted to it as a floor. Didn't want anything rubbing on the controls. In hindsight, I would just install the baggage sack. My $.02, Margaret H. Classic IV N3076U College Station, TX >>> lynnmatt(at)jps.net 12/5/2006 10:39:26 AM >>> I added one "under-seat" bin, on the passenger side, and it works ok....PITA to install, but not too bad to use. The seat must be empty of course, but after that it's just a matter of (in my plane, that is) lifting the seat cushion/upholstery and lifting the hinged lid. I keep my fuel sump drain device, a funnel, a few tools, a rag, windshield cleaner, and a quart of oil if I'm heading far away...a "flat" quart that is...a "round" quart won't fit. There is a little room left, but not much, because it's a tapered compartment. Lynn On Tuesday, December 5, 2006, at 07:14 AM, Fox5flyer wrote: > > All of those sound like nice upgrades Dave, but ask yourself just one > question. Are they necessary? The reason I say this is because every > one ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fox5flyer" <fox5flyer@i-star.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Filter Thoughts
Date: Dec 05, 2006
Nick, that's good information and I agree that the bypass spring is most likely not the problem. However, I believe the filter's anti-drain back membrane (check valve) can be a possible cause. An ineffective check valve will let too much, or even all, of the oil to drain back into the crankcase which would take a lot of flips of the prop to create enough pressure to push oil past the filter and into the reservoir to the point that it "burps", which, as I see it, is nothing more than the air in the line being evacuated. I might be totally wrong on this, but it makes sense to me. A hundred or more prop pulls would wear a guy out! Deke ----- Original Message ----- From: Nick Scholtes To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 12:03 PM Subject: Kitfox-List: Oil Filter Thoughts Randy and Jimmie, I've been following this oil filter thread a bit, and couldn't help jumping in a bit. I'm not an oil-filter expert by any means, so I'm kinda' speculating here, but here goes: I believe that the "number of compression strokes" and the "different pressure relief value" are totally different issues, and are totally unrelated. I also believe that the alleged "different pressure relieve value" of the Rotax filter is no reason whatsoever to purchase the Rotax filter, but it's the only thing that Rotax can point to to differentiate their filter and justify their price. An oil filter's pressure relief system is a safety system and it only comes into play when the filter is completely clogged, and the pressure across the filter builds to the point where the filter may burst (or the engine may be damaged due to all of the pressure drop being across the filter). The filter has a valve in it that will open, bypassing the "filter" part, and simply allowing oil to flow past, unfiltered. Again, this only happens in a non-normal situation, and will only be brought on by the filter producing enough resistance to the oil flow that the pressure across the filter builds high enough to pop the bypass valve. And I emphasize that the pressure across the filter is what matters, just because a motor has a high pressure oil pump doesn't mean that the bypass valve should be bypassing, even with a high pressure oil pump the filter should still be able to flow enough volume of oil to keep the pressure drop across the filter to a minimum. In an aircraft situation where the oil is changed religiously and the engine is maintained well, I just don't see the relief valve ever coming into play, and in the odd situation that it would, the value is somewhat irrelevant, as long as it goes into bypass before there's a catastrophic failure, that's all that matters. So, CarQuest or Rotax, who is to say that one picked a better pressure bypass number than the other? I want a bypass value high enough that it NEVER goes into bypass in normal operation. Anyway, in my opinion, there are several things that can differentiate an oil filter: The "fineness" of the filter (usually measured in microns), the quality and hence longevity of the filter material, and the bypass pressure value. The bypass pressure value is a non-issue, in my opinion. The "fineness" could be what is contributing to the different number of compression strokes, maybe the Rotax filter has a finer mesh than the CarQuest. After I wrote the above, I did a Google search on "How an oil filter works", and there are a couple of really good pages there that talk about the bypass valve, and also a different type of filtering technique called "bypass filtering" (not related to the bypass valve), and pages that talk about differences in fineness, and also differences in quality. Interesting reading on this topic. Nick From: "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh(at)rapidnet.com> Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Oil Filters for 912UL Jimmie, What does the amount of blow-by have to do with whether all the oil goes through the filter or not? The number of compression strokes should have everything to do with ring leakage and nothing to do with by-passing the oil filter. ??????? I have been trying to get info on the pressure values for the pressure relief valves. It is not easy to come by! Randy . 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 05, 2006
From: PWilson <pwmac(at)sisna.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Filters for 912UL
Correct about the filter seal. There are several studies on the web to compare filters. The filters that are of the highest quality use a coil spring and a soft silicone seal for the drain back valve. If one is not sure just cut the old one apart and examine the quality. I forget all the high quality ones. For all my cars/trucks I have settled on NAPA Gold since they are so handy. Another good brand was Wix. These two had the largest surface area and the best seal and the cost was not unreasonable. Here is another link for a typical comparison study: http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/corvette/articles/oilfilterstudy/oilfilters.html Google "oil filter testing" or "oil filter comparison" for more links. The mopar link you referred to is a better link http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html I have read a bunch of these links and you are giving good advice. The links tell the story. Not sure about the Rotax internal flow path check valve because I don't have my Rotax manual available but I think the only restriction in the oil line is the pump and line/hose friction. That is the reason some guys have drain back after a hot shutdown when light oil is used. Just curious - how is the Sub plumbed. Check valve? Regards, Paul ================== At 04:27 AM 12/5/2006, you wrote: >It may simply be the quality and fit of the check valve in the >filter. It's there to keep the oil from draining back to the >engine so the filter is always full. Some filters are more >effective than others and it may even vary from filter to >filter. If someone has a Rotax filter and a Wix (or Fram, etc.) >just cut the two apart and compare the internals. I'd bet there is >a difference. >Also, since the 912 is a dry sump operation there has to be some >sort of a check valve in the plumbing to the reservoir too. That >may need replacing if it isn't sealing properly. >Deke > >John > >Yes, the gurgle is what I am referring to. I am still amazed and >puzzedled by the difference between the number of compression stokes >needed to get the, "burp or gurgle", from the Rotax and Carquest >filters. I think we are close to discovering something >significant. Please keep me informed. > >Thank you. > >Jimmie >----- Original Message ----- >From: <mailto:jpm7940(at)sbcglobal.net>JOHN May >To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com >Sent: Monday, December 04, 2006 5:17 PM >Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Oil Filters for 912UL >Jimmie, >I will check out the number of compression strokes the next time I >am at the airport. Just to be sure I understand what you mean by >"burp" I think you mean the gurgleing noise it makes, is this >correct? Do you mean when you first hear the gurgle? I will have to >check it out but my guess is that 30 is about right for my filter >also. The only time I turn the engine that many strokes is after I >change the oil and I am trying to make sure the system is filled >before I start it up. John May from Kalamazoo ( Model >IV-1200 912 UL N48PN ) >...snip... ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Kitfox Upgrades
From: "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 05, 2006
I for one would like to go to the plexy rear, but, haven't done it yet. The oil thermostate, I installed one and feel that is the best thing I've put on the engine, period. Even works great in the summer time, I start the engine, and before I get to the runway it's ready to go, about 5 minutes. In the winter time, I'm talking currently 25 degrees, it takes about 15 minutes, maybe a little sooner. But I'm assured that the engine is running at around 180-220 all the time, no matter what time of year, no more putting tape on the cooler in the winter and quick warm ups, I love it. I also have the 912ul The under seat, I want to but haven't done that one either, I like the fact that items I don't use, but need, can be put in an area that ain't gonna affect weight and balance, just gross weight. -------- kitfoxmike Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=79341#79341 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Oil Filter Thoughts
From: "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 05, 2006
Jees, What a mess that has brought up. I use the Carquest filter. I for one don't turn the prop over and wait to here that gurgle, or what ever. I did when I first got the airplane. What I do is this. I do my inspection of the airplane, I get to the prop and inspect that, look inside the front engine area. I turn the prop about 4 compression strokes, to make sure it isn't compression locked. Then I get in the airplane turn on the master only, keep the mags OFF, and turn the engine over with choke for about a count of 4 in the summer and 12 in the winter, while watching the oil guage to make sure I have normal pressure. Then I stop turning over the engine and turn on the mags, engine fires right up and pressure comes right up. Never had an issue, I put in over 200 hours this year and about that last year. I don't intend to change this, I also cut open the filters after an oil change and there is nothing in there. One last note: the filter isn't the real issue why the oil goes into the engine, it's the possision of the oil tank, sure the filter will cause it to flow into the engine faster, possibly, but the oil tank higher than the engine is what really does it. -------- kitfoxmike Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=79347#79347 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Search for oil leak
From: "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 05, 2006
No. one place for a leak on these is the vent, leaks out here only when flying. No. 2 is a place where you spilled some oil from a previous oil change. -------- kitfoxmike Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=79362#79362 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Kitfox Upgrades
From: "crazyivan" <dmivezic(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 05, 2006
Thanks for the responses so far. FoxFlyer - I think like you...weight is bad. - So I think I might go with a removable cargo pod instead of the seat things. Use it only for long trips. - As for the lexan turtle deck, It's probably a bit heavier but my original deck leaks water like a screen door when she's parked in the rain. - I'm not sure but I think that the Maule pneumatic tailwheel is lighter than the solid rubber puck that's on there now. - Big ole' tundra tires because they look cool and taxiing/takeoff/landing on rough strips would be less harsh than on my John Deere tractor tires. - Thermostat for the reason that KitfoxMike wrote. Maine winters will keep my flow-through oil cooler way to cold on descents. -------- Dave Speedster 912 UL Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=79387#79387 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dave" <dave(at)cfisher.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox Upgrades
Date: Dec 05, 2006
Just so that you know , Matco has a 6 inch pneumatic now too.......... and it an turned 6061 wheel not cast. I think the 8 inch is cast. Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "crazyivan" <dmivezic(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 3:25 PM Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Kitfox Upgrades > > Thanks for the responses so far. > > FoxFlyer - I think like you...weight is bad. > > - So I think I might go with a removable cargo pod instead of the seat > things. Use it only for long trips. > - As for the lexan turtle deck, It's probably a bit heavier but my > original deck leaks water like a screen door when she's parked in the > rain. > - I'm not sure but I think that the Maule pneumatic tailwheel is lighter > than the solid rubber puck that's on there now. > - Big ole' tundra tires because they look cool and taxiing/takeoff/landing > on rough strips would be less harsh than on my John Deere tractor tires. > - Thermostat for the reason that KitfoxMike wrote. Maine winters will > keep my flow-through oil cooler way to cold on descents. > > -------- > Dave > Speedster 912 UL > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=79387#79387 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fox5flyer" <fox5flyer@i-star.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Filters for 912UL
Date: Dec 05, 2006
If I'm not mistaken Paul, Napa Gold and Silver are both Wix products manufactured by Dana. I also use the Napa Gold on my Soob and replace it every 25 hours, not because it's required, but I figure it's cheap insurance. The NSI EA81 uses a similar remote sump system to the 912, but with a check valve in the line going to the sump to prevent drain back. Between that and the filter anti drain back valve, the system is always ready. If Rotax left off the check valve it may have been to reduce parts count and potential failure points. I haven't heard of any of them going bad though. Deke ----- Original Message ----- From: PWilson To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 12:45 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Oil Filters for 912UL Correct about the filter seal. There are several studies on the web to compare filters. The filters that are of the highest quality use a coil spring and a soft silicone seal for the drain back valve. If one is not sure just cut the old one apart and examine the quality. I forget all the high quality ones. For all my cars/trucks I have settled on NAPA Gold since they are so handy. Another good brand was Wix. These two had the largest surface area and the best seal and the cost was not unreasonable. Here is another link for a typical comparison study: http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/corvette/articles/oilfilterstudy/oilfilter s.html Google "oil filter testing" or "oil filter comparison" for more links. The mopar link you referred to is a better link http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html I have read a bunch of these links and you are giving good advice. The links tell the story. Not sure about the Rotax internal flow path check valve because I don't have my Rotax manual available but I think the only restriction in the oil line is the pump and line/hose friction. That is the reason some guys have drain back after a hot shutdown when light oil is used. Just curious - how is the Sub plumbed. Check valve? Regards, Paul ================== At 04:27 AM 12/5/2006, you wrote: It may simply be the quality and fit of the check valve in the filter. It's there to keep the oil from draining back to the engine so the filter is always full. Some filters are more effective than others and it may even vary from filter to filter. If someone has a Rotax filter and a Wix (or Fram, etc.) just cut the two apart and compare the internals. I'd bet there is a difference. Also, since the 912 is a dry sump operation there has to be some sort of a check valve in the plumbing to the reservoir too. That may need replacing if it isn't sealing properly. Deke John Yes, the gurgle is what I am referring to. I am still amazed and puzzedled by the difference between the number of compression stokes needed to get the, "burp or gurgle", from the Rotax and Carquest filters. I think we are close to discovering something significant. Please keep me informed. Thank you. Jimmie ----- Original Message ----- From: JOHN May To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, December 04, 2006 5:17 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Oil Filters for 912UL Jimmie, I will check out the number of compression strokes the next time I am at the airport. Just to be sure I understand what you mean by "burp" I think you mean the gurgleing noise it makes, is this correct? Do you mean when you first hear the gurgle? I will have to check it out but my guess is that 30 is about right for my filter also. The only time I turn the engine that many strokes is after I change the oil and I am trying to make sure the system is filled before I start it up. John May from Kalamazoo ( Model IV-1200 912 UL N48PN ) ...snip... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Frank Miles" <f.miles.tcp.833(at)clearwire.net>
Subject: Spark Plug Gap
Date: Dec 05, 2006
Can anyone tell me the proper spark plug for a Rotax 582? Frank -- 4:07 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Oil Filter Thoughts
Date: Dec 05, 2006
I also agree with Nicks thoughts. The bypass comes in to play, in my estimation with an abused system - inadequate oil changes. I have thought a lot about the tendency of the oil draining into the crank case from the tank and possible solutions. I have to "burp" mine before flight as well and in the past, it took fewer compression strokes after an oil change, then progressively more as the hours mounted. The geometry of the system is as mike states. The oil tank being higher than the Rotax recommended position will siphon the oil in the tank back to the crankcase. This actually sould be stated as "forward" into the crank case as the return line is higher than the oil level in the tank and any movement of oil from the tank to the crank case is in a forward direction through the pick-up line - tank, pick-up tube, oil cooler, oil pump, oil filter oil journals and crank case. Neither the bypass valve nor the anti-drainback valve are involved with the movement of the oil because there is very little pressure and the oil is moving from the tank to the engine in the normal direction. Since the oil is purged from the crank case by blowby gasses, I always thought the relative fit of the rings and valves would determine the bypass pressure and be the predominant factor in the number of compression strokes needed to fill the oil tank, i.e., a good tight engine - low bypass gasses and lots of strokes, a tired worn engine (or a new engine) with lots of bypass - few strokes. I think other factors involved are oil temperatures - thickness of the oil and the duration between flights. My guess is that most of the flow from the tank occurs immediately after shutdown when the oil is warm and relatively thinner. I have burped several days before a flight and the oil remained fairly high on the dipstick at flight time. Much of this is opinion and I am interested in other's thoughts. Lowell ----- Original Message ----- From: "Fox5flyer" <fox5flyer@i-star.com> Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 9:25 AM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Oil Filter Thoughts Nick, that's good information and I agree that the bypass spring is most likely not the problem. However, I believe the filter's anti-drain back membrane (check valve) can be a possible cause. An ineffective check valve will let too much, or even all, of the oil to drain back into the crankcase which would take a lot of flips of the prop to create enough pressure to push oil past the filter and into the reservoir to the point that it "burps", which, as I see it, is nothing more than the air in the line being evacuated. I might be totally wrong on this, but it makes sense to me. A hundred or more prop pulls would wear a guy out! Deke ----- Original Message ----- From: Nick Scholtes To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 12:03 PM Subject: Kitfox-List: Oil Filter Thoughts Randy and Jimmie, I've been following this oil filter thread a bit, and couldn't help jumping in a bit. I'm not an oil-filter expert by any means, so I'm kinda' speculating here, but here goes: I believe that the "number of compression strokes" and the "different pressure relief value" are totally different issues, and are totally unrelated. I also believe that the alleged "different pressure relieve value" of the Rotax filter is no reason whatsoever to purchase the Rotax filter, but it's the only thing that Rotax can point to to differentiate their filter and justify their price. An oil filter's pressure relief system is a safety system and it only comes into play when the filter is completely clogged, and the pressure across the filter builds to the point where the filter may burst (or the engine may be damaged due to all of the pressure drop being across the filter). The filter has a valve in it that will open, bypassing the "filter" part, and simply allowing oil to flow past, unfiltered. Again, this only happens in a non-normal situation, and will only be brought on by the filter producing enough resistance to the oil flow that the pressure across the filter builds high enough to pop the bypass valve. And I emphasize that the pressure across the filter is what matters, just because a motor has a high pressure oil pump doesn't mean that the bypass valve should be bypassing, even with a high pressure oil pump the filter should still be able to flow enough volume of oil to keep the pressure drop across the filter to a minimum. In an aircraft situation where the oil is changed religiously and the engine is maintained well, I just don't see the relief valve ever coming into play, and in the odd situation that it would, the value is somewhat irrelevant, as long as it goes into bypass before there's a catastrophic failure, that's all that matters. So, CarQuest or Rotax, who is to say that one picked a better pressure bypass number than the other? I want a bypass value high enough that it NEVER goes into bypass in normal operation. Anyway, in my opinion, there are several things that can differentiate an oil filter: The "fineness" of the filter (usually measured in microns), the quality and hence longevity of the filter material, and the bypass pressure value. The bypass pressure value is a non-issue, in my opinion. The "fineness" could be what is contributing to the different number of compression strokes, maybe the Rotax filter has a finer mesh than the CarQuest. After I wrote the above, I did a Google search on "How an oil filter works", and there are a couple of really good pages there that talk about the bypass valve, and also a different type of filtering technique called "bypass filtering" (not related to the bypass valve), and pages that talk about differences in fineness, and also differences in quality. Interesting reading on this topic. Nick From: "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh(at)rapidnet.com> Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Oil Filters for 912UL Jimmie, What does the amount of blow-by have to do with whether all the oil goes through the filter or not? The number of compression strokes should have everything to do with ring leakage and nothing to do with by-passing the oil filter. ??????? I have been trying to get info on the pressure values for the pressure relief valves. It is not easy to come by! Randy . 3D============================================ 3D============================================ 3D============================================ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Frank Miles" <f.miles.tcp.833(at)clearwire.net>
Subject: Spark Plug Gap
Date: Dec 05, 2006
Sorry, left out the =93gap=94 part . . . . . Frank -- 12/5/2006 4:07 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dave" <dave(at)cfisher.com>
Subject: Re: Spark Plug Gap
Date: Dec 05, 2006
Frank, I have BR8ES in my 582 solid tips ( not screw tips) I gap at .018 - I am over due for plugs now with near 95 hours on these since July . I am trying for 100 hours to prove it works :) I think rotax specs are 016 to 020 . And yes those Alum screw tips can come loose , not just the screwed on tip but the tip will wear from rubbing on the steel clip inside the plug cap and will cause a flat spot and they do not hold on then. Hope this helps , Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: Frank Miles To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 4:18 PM Subject: Kitfox-List: Spark Plug Gap Can anyone tell me the proper spark plug for a Rotax 582? Frank -- 12/5/2006 4:07 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fox5flyer" <fox5flyer@i-star.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox Upgrades
Date: Dec 05, 2006
About the only thing I can take issue with is the Maule tailwheel. The hard rubber type is a 6" unit and I think it's about a pound lighter than the pneumatic type which is an 8" inch unit. Have you considered the Home Builders Special? Very light and soft rubber for a better ride. Might even be lighter than the Maule 6 inch. I can't argue with the thermostat. Quick warmups and not having to screw around with covers for the radiator/oil cooler is a good thing. Deke > > Thanks for the responses so far. > > FoxFlyer - I think like you...weight is bad. > > - So I think I might go with a removable cargo pod instead of the seat things. Use it only for long trips. > - As for the lexan turtle deck, It's probably a bit heavier but my original deck leaks water like a screen door when she's parked in the rain. > - I'm not sure but I think that the Maule pneumatic tailwheel is lighter than the solid rubber puck that's on there now. > - Big ole' tundra tires because they look cool and taxiing/takeoff/landing on rough strips would be less harsh than on my John Deere tractor tires. > - Thermostat for the reason that KitfoxMike wrote. Maine winters will keep my flow-through oil cooler way to cold on descents. > > -------- > Dave > Speedster 912 UL ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 05, 2006
From: "Glenn Horne" <glennflys(at)verizon.net>
Subject: KitFox Model II
I have put my KitFox up for sale. I have put it on Barnstormers and also on EBay. The Item Number on EBay is 280057173786 Anyone looking for a nice model II check it out. Glenn Horne Model II Suffolk, Virginia. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Vixen: Fuel Gauge Leak.. and Clear Fuel Line Recommendation
From: "FlyboyTR" <flyboytr(at)bellsouth.net>
Date: Dec 05, 2006
I have been having on-going issues with my Vixen. The engine is currently off awaiting parts for the Continental IO-240 starter. This is the link to that problem if you're interested. http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=19174 Yesterday I noticed fuel dripping off the side of the plane. According to the fuel gauges I had lost around 14 gallons! It was dripping out of the wing, running into the aileron...dripping out of the aileron and down the side of the fuselage. Turned the fuel valves off and siphoned the tank. Today we folded the right wing to access the fuel fittings. There was nothing obvious until I realized the sight gauge fitting at the bottom was loose...it would move in and out about 1/8". This is the semi rigid gauge. Removed, inspected and determined it had to be the culprit...just loose! Reinstalled and everything is dry. I will check the other side tomorrow! Before re-installing the sight gauge I cut a length of red spray spout tubing (the little hose that comes on a can of WD-40, etc) and inserted it into the sight gauge. I had read about this in an old post but there was no mention of how well it worked. As I was adding fuel (checking for the leak) my wife was the first to notice the difference in ease of reading the sight gauge. I was quite impressed when I looked at it...much easier to see and identify the fuel level. Now, to my needs... :) I want to replace the clear fuel line that runs from the header tank (behind the seat) to the top of the right fuel tank. In years past I have used vinyl fuel line but always had easy access for inspection purposes. I would like to know what is now (since I've been away from flying for some time...) considered to be the best clear fuel line for this type of application? ID is 1/4". As always, any and all help/input will be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Travis :) -------- Travis Rayner Mobile, AL Skystar Vixen N-789DF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=79440#79440 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rex Shaw" <rexjan(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Don leaving ??????
Date: Dec 06, 2006
Thanks but, I may not be leaving the ranks. No one seems to be knocking my door down to buy my Fox. Well Don I hate to say this but maybe this is in our favour. Are you sure you want to sell your Kitfox especially at that price ?????? Seriously if you really do want to sell it I wish you luck. Rex. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rex Shaw" <rexjan(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Re incident
Date: Dec 06, 2006
Now a search and recovery. Witnesses reported a straight in about 300 yards offshore. I flew the coast more than an hour today and saw only sea lions and bubbles from the divers. Sonar arrives tommorow. Ron NB Ore Ron I also offer my condolences. I hope you are able to come to terms with this sooner than later. Kind Regards, Rex. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 05, 2006
From: PWilson <pwmac(at)sisna.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Filters for 912UL
Thanks Paul ================= At 12:55 PM 12/5/2006, you wrote: >If I'm not mistaken Paul, Napa Gold and Silver are both Wix products >manufactured by Dana. I also use the Napa Gold on my Soob and >replace it every 25 hours, not because it's required, but I figure >it's cheap insurance. >The NSI EA81 uses a similar remote sump system to the 912, but with >a check valve in the line going to the sump to prevent drain >back. Between that and the filter anti drain back valve, the system >is always ready. If Rotax left off the check valve it may have been >to reduce parts count and potential failure points. I haven't heard >of any of them going bad though. >Deke > >----- Original Message ----- >From: <mailto:pwmac(at)sisna.com>PWilson >To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com >Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 12:45 PM >Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Oil Filters for 912UL > >Correct about the filter seal. There are several studies on the web >to compare filters. The filters that are of the highest quality use >a coil spring and a soft silicone seal for the drain back valve. If >one is not sure just cut the old one apart and examine the quality. >I forget all the high quality ones. For all my cars/trucks I have >settled on NAPA Gold since they are so handy. Another good brand was >Wix. These two had the largest surface area and the best seal and >the cost was not unreasonable. Here is another link for a typical >comparison study: >http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/corvette/articles/oilfilterstudy/oilfilters.html >Google "oil filter testing" or "oil filter comparison" for more >links. The mopar link you referred to is a better link >http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html I have read a >bunch of these links and you are giving good advice. The links tell the story. > >Not sure about the Rotax internal flow path check valve because I >don't have my Rotax manual available but I think the only >restriction in the oil line is the pump and line/hose friction. That >is the reason some guys have drain back after a hot shutdown when >light oil is used. >Just curious - how is the Sub plumbed. Check valve? >Regards, Paul >================== >At 04:27 AM 12/5/2006, you wrote: >>It may simply be the quality and fit of the check valve in the >>filter. It's there to keep the oil from draining back to the >>engine so the filter is always full. Some filters are more >>effective than others and it may even vary from filter to >>filter. If someone has a Rotax filter and a Wix (or Fram, etc.) >>just cut the two apart and compare the internals. I'd bet there is >>a difference. >>Also, since the 912 is a dry sump operation there has to be some >>sort of a check valve in the plumbing to the reservoir too. That >>may need replacing if it isn't sealing properly. >>Deke >> >>John >>Yes, the gurgle is what I am referring to. I am still amazed and >>puzzedled by the difference between the number of compression >>stokes needed to get the, "burp or gurgle", from the Rotax and >>Carquest filters. I think we are close to discovering something >>significant. Please keep me informed. >>Thank you. >>Jimmie >>----- Original Message ----- >>From: <mailto:jpm7940(at)sbcglobal.net>JOHN May >>To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com >>Sent: Monday, December 04, 2006 5:17 PM >>Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Oil Filters for 912UL >>Jimmie, >>I will check out the number of compression strokes the next time I >>am at the airport. Just to be sure I understand what you mean by >>"burp" I think you mean the gurgleing noise it makes, is this >>correct? Do you mean when you first hear the gurgle? I will have >>to check it out but my guess is that 30 is about right for my >>filter also. The only time I turn the engine that many strokes is >>after I change the oil and I am trying to make sure the system is >>filled before I start it up. John May from Kalamazoo ( Model >>IV-1200 912 UL N48PN ) >>...snip... > > >href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com > >href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com > >href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com > >href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com > >href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List">http://www.matron > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Oil Filters for 912UL
Date: Dec 05, 2006
If Rotax left off the check valve it may have been to reduce parts count and potential failure points. I haven't heard of any of them going bad though. Deke This is the quandry. How do you install a check valve that will prevent oil movement in the intake line while the engine is not running, but will (without fail) allow oil to flow to the pump after start-up. Remember the oil is running from the tank to the engine in both cases and the return line which is above the tank oil level is not a player. Lowell ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh(at)rapidnet.com>
Subject: Vixen: Fuel Gauge Leak.. and Clear Fuel Line Recommendation
Date: Dec 05, 2006
Travis, I went with tygon. 2.5 years and very happy thus far. I tried to find records but.. it was an ultralight supply web site. Google it. I do like being able to see the fuel in the line. Others have been happy with the blue stuff from Aircraft Spruce. Randy . -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of FlyboyTR Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 5:06 PM Subject: Kitfox-List: Vixen: Fuel Gauge Leak.. and Clear Fuel Line Recommendation I have been having on-going issues with my Vixen. The engine is currently off awaiting parts for the Continental IO-240 starter. This is the link to that problem if you're interested. http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=19174 Yesterday I noticed fuel dripping off the side of the plane. According to the fuel gauges I had lost around 14 gallons! It was dripping out of the wing, running into the aileron...dripping out of the aileron and down the side of the fuselage. Turned the fuel valves off and siphoned the tank. Today we folded the right wing to access the fuel fittings. There was nothing obvious until I realized the sight gauge fitting at the bottom was loose...it would move in and out about 1/8". This is the semi rigid gauge. Removed, inspected and determined it had to be the culprit...just loose! Reinstalled and everything is dry. I will check the other side tomorrow! Before re-installing the sight gauge I cut a length of red spray spout tubing (the little hose that comes on a can of WD-40, etc) and inserted it into the sight gauge. I had read about this in an old post but there was no mention of how well it worked. As I was adding fuel (checking for the leak) my wife was the first to notice the difference in ease of reading the sight gauge. I was quite impressed when I looked at it...much easier to see and identify the fuel level. Now, to my needs... :) I want to replace the clear fuel line that runs from the header tank (behind the seat) to the top of the right fuel tank. In years past I have used vinyl fuel line but always had easy access for inspection purposes. I would like to know what is now (since I've been away from flying for some time...) considered to be the best clear fuel line for this type of application? ID is 1/4". As always, any and all help/input will be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Travis :) -------- Travis Rayner Mobile, AL Skystar Vixen N-789DF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=79440#79440 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fox5flyer" <fox5flyer@i-star.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Filters for 912UL
Date: Dec 05, 2006
Good question Lowell. It shows you're thinking! I was speaking of the return line to the firewall sump as on my NSI engine. My return line is large, about 3/4" ID and the check valve is low on the line near the crankcase. The valve inhibits any back flow to the crankcase. At first I assumed that the 912 had a similar plumbing arrangement, but obviously that's not necessarily true, or maybe it is, but sans the check valve, thereby allowing the line to drain back. Deke > > If Rotax left off the check valve it may have been > to reduce parts count and potential failure points. I haven't heard > of any of them going bad though. > Deke > > This is the quandry. How do you install a check valve that will prevent oil > movement in the intake line while the engine is not running, but will > (without fail) allow oil to flow to the pump after start-up. Remember the > oil is running from the tank to the engine in both cases and the return line > which is above the tank oil level is not a player. > > Lowell > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 05, 2006
From: Guy Buchanan <bnn(at)nethere.com>
Subject: Re: Vixen: Fuel Gauge Leak.. and Clear Fuel Line Recommendation
At 04:06 PM 12/5/2006, you wrote: >I would like to know what is now (since I've been away from flying for >some time...) considered to be the best clear fuel line for this type of >application? I like the Bing Blue out of ACS. (Bing Alcohol Resistant Fuel Line.) It got rave reviews on past web searches and is pre-discolored for 100LL. ;-) Guy Buchanan K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 05, 2006
From: Jim Corner <jcorner(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: 0-235 vs Turbo Subaru
This is maybe a problem that most of you wish you had..... and to many the answer might be very obvious. I have 1 each of the above two engines, one I purchased and the other I received on a debt owing. For this question assume that installed cost is about the same. Installed weights are about the same...... and one of these engines is going into a Kitfox Model 5, I just can't seem to make a final decision and stick with it. The Sube has more power 150+ vs 115 for the Lyc The Lyc has a longer proven history of reliability, and perhaps a little easier to install and maintain. The S5 Kitfox will be equipped for night flying, i don't expect any hard IFR, floats may come later. One week I am convinced that I will install the Sube, next the Lyc. Have to make up my mind very soon, pre-cover inspection coming right up. Which one should I install? Comments appreciated. Jim PS: I currently fly a Model 2, 582 s/n 575 just over 1100 hrs. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don and Dianne Usher" <denver7(at)telus.net>
Subject: Re: KitFox Model II
Date: Dec 06, 2006
You are asking too much for your plane. I just bought a brand new mod 3 with 582 for 16,500, and barnstormers has others also for less. don ----- Original Message ----- From: Glenn Horne To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 3:56 PM Subject: Kitfox-List: KitFox Model II I have put my KitFox up for sale. I have put it on Barnstormers and also on EBay. The Item Number on EBay is 280057173786 Anyone looking for a nice model II check it out. Glenn Horne Model II Suffolk, Virginia. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- 12/2/2006 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dave" <dave(at)cfisher.com>
Subject: Re: KitFox Model II
Date: Dec 06, 2006
I think this is great , Kitfoxes have been selling at huge discount for year to cost of building. Don, you should be thankful that your investment has grown so quickly. Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: Don and Dianne Usher To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 4:31 AM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: KitFox Model II You are asking too much for your plane. I just bought a brand new mod 3 with 582 for 16,500, and barnstormers has others also for less. don ----- Original Message ----- From: Glenn Horne To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 3:56 PM Subject: Kitfox-List: KitFox Model II I have put my KitFox up for sale. I have put it on Barnstormers and also on EBay. The Item Number on EBay is 280057173786 Anyone looking for a nice model II check it out. Glenn Horne Model II Suffolk, Virginia. href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List">http://www.matron ------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- Date: 12/2/2006 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 06, 2006
From: "Glenn Horne" <glennflys(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: 0-235 vs Turbo Subaru
The Lyc. No question about it. There are only two engine to fly behind.Lyc. 7 Cont. GG ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Corner" <jcorner(at)shaw.ca> Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 12:12 AM Subject: Kitfox-List: 0-235 vs Turbo Subaru > > This is maybe a problem that most of you wish you had..... and to many > the answer might be very obvious. > > I have 1 each of the above two engines, one I purchased and the other I > received on a debt owing. For this question assume that installed cost > is about the same. > > Installed weights are about the same...... and one of these engines is > going into a Kitfox Model 5, I just can't seem to make a final decision > and stick with it. > > The Sube has more power 150+ vs 115 for the Lyc > > The Lyc has a longer proven history of reliability, and perhaps a little > easier to install and maintain. > > The S5 Kitfox will be equipped for night flying, i don't expect any hard > IFR, floats may come later. > > One week I am convinced that I will install the Sube, next the Lyc. > > Have to make up my mind very soon, pre-cover inspection coming right up. > > Which one should I install? Comments appreciated. > > Jim > > PS: I currently fly a Model 2, 582 s/n 575 just over 1100 hrs. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Clifford Begnaud" <barefootpilot(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: 0-235 vs Turbo Subaru
Date: Dec 06, 2006
Jim, I have the Lycoming on a model 5 and have been very happy with it. Lots of torque to turn a big prop which gives great take off and climb performance. Cruise speed is good also (130 mph at 5.2 gph) For floats I think the Lyc might be the better choice. The nice things about the subie are that it can burn auto gas and you can install an inflight adjustable prop. For my taste though, the Lycoming is a much simpler setup with fewer things to go wrong and you can get parts and service on it anywhere. good luck, Cliff > > One week I am convinced that I will install the Sube, next the Lyc. > > Have to make up my mind very soon, pre-cover inspection coming right up. > > Which one should I install? Comments appreciated. > > Jim > > PS: I currently fly a Model 2, 582 s/n 575 just over 1100 hrs. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 06, 2006
From: "Larry Martin" <CrownLJ(at)verizon.net>
Subject: RE:Clear Fuel Line Recommendation
My line of choice is urethane hose available at any snowmobile/dirt bike place. They have been using it for years and it stays flexible. Locally, about $1.00/ft. I plan to redo all my lines with it this spring. larry ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "john perry" <eskflyer(at)lvcisp.com>
Subject: Re: 0-235 vs Turbo Subaru
Date: Dec 06, 2006
I dont know who brain washed you but , your wrong . There are many engines to fly behind . They are all mechanical and will break at some point . That said I have flown behind 2 strokes and never had a engine out . I have flown behind continentals and have had rods thrown threw the case . I have flown behind subbies and never had a problem . ahve flown behind Lycomings and had mags fail . HMMMMM whats the better engine , each to there own i guess. John Perry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Glenn Horne" <glennflys(at)verizon.net> Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 7:28 AM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: 0-235 vs Turbo Subaru > > The Lyc. No question about it. There are only two engine to fly > behind.Lyc. 7 Cont. > GG > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jim Corner" <jcorner(at)shaw.ca> > To: > Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 12:12 AM > Subject: Kitfox-List: 0-235 vs Turbo Subaru > > >> >> This is maybe a problem that most of you wish you had..... and to many >> the answer might be very obvious. >> >> I have 1 each of the above two engines, one I purchased and the other I >> received on a debt owing. For this question assume that installed cost >> is about the same. >> >> Installed weights are about the same...... and one of these engines is >> going into a Kitfox Model 5, I just can't seem to make a final decision >> and stick with it. >> >> The Sube has more power 150+ vs 115 for the Lyc >> >> The Lyc has a longer proven history of reliability, and perhaps a >> little easier to install and maintain. >> >> The S5 Kitfox will be equipped for night flying, i don't expect any hard >> IFR, floats may come later. >> >> One week I am convinced that I will install the Sube, next the Lyc. >> >> Have to make up my mind very soon, pre-cover inspection coming right up. >> >> Which one should I install? Comments appreciated. >> >> Jim >> >> PS: I currently fly a Model 2, 582 s/n 575 just over 1100 hrs. >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 06, 2006
From: Michael Gibbs <MichaelGibbs(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Kitfox Upgrades
Deke sez: >I can't speak personally for the under seat bins, but my >recollection is that they're a PITA just to get to. I found them to be quite handy for things like a bottle of fuel additive, a quart of oil, and a couple of hand tools. I used the ones that Murle Williams sells on his web site <http://MurleWilliamsAviation.com/catalog.html>. Obviously, they are not meant for items needed in flight. I can't say for sure, but the way the bins were flattened during my accident suggests that they also offered a small amount of energy absorption that may have contributed to preventing more serious back injuries for my passenger and I. Dave sez: >...I think I might go with a removable cargo pod instead of the seat >things. Use it only for long trips. A cargo pod is great if you have a need for one, I'm interested in one myself. When attached, though, the pod weighs more than underseat compartments and adds drag. Margaret sez: >I wanted to be able to access it in flight even with a passenger >present. ...not much space, but it's good for maps and fuel >strainers and stuff like that. That sort of thing goes in my glove box. Mike G. N728KF ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 06, 2006
Subject: Re: Vixen: Fuel Gauge Leak.. and Clear Fuel Line Recommendation
From: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>
A question: when you folks say "ACS", are you referring to Aircraft Spruce, or is this another company that I'm unaware of? The (seemingly) extra "C" maybe is throwing me off. Lynn On Tuesday, December 5, 2006, at 10:36 PM, Guy Buchanan wrote: > > At 04:06 PM 12/5/2006, you wrote: >> I would like to know what is now (since I've been away from flying >> for some time...) considered to be the best clear fuel line for this >> type of application? > > I like the Bing Blue out of ACS. (Bing Alcohol Resistant Fuel Line.) > It got rave reviews on past web searches and is pre-discolored for > 100LL. ;-) > > > Guy Buchanan > K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Vixen: Fuel Gauge Leak.. and Clear Fuel Line Recommendation
From: "FlyboyTR" <flyboytr(at)bellsouth.net>
Date: Dec 06, 2006
Randy and Guy, Thanks for the info. I had been reading about the yellow Tygon and decided to go with that. I ordered it from United States Plastic Corp. along with a bunch of other stuff. Great price on yellow plastic bins, etc. http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/default.asp Thanks again! Travis :) -------- Travis Rayner Mobile, AL Skystar Vixen N-789DF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=79545#79545 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jimmie Blackwell" <JimmieBlackwell(at)austin.rr.com>
Subject: Rotax Oil Filter By Pass Pressure
Date: Dec 06, 2006
I just acquired informtion on the by pass pressure of the Rotax oil filter. It is 13 - 16 psi. Carquest filter, which is made by Wix, is 8 - 11 psi. With this in mind is the Carquest filter ok to use? I am far from an expert on this issue, but would like to hear the opinions of those with more knowledge and experience. Jimmie ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 0-235 vs Turbo Subaru
Date: Dec 06, 2006
From: "Rueb, Duane" <ruebd(at)skymail.csus.edu>
Jim: Direct drive and a single cooling system, maintainability 'anywhere' would favor the Lycoming. Assuming that both engines are in good serviceable condition, I know which one I would rather be flying behind when, say approximately 100 miles west of Denver at 13,500 ft. (for a brief period). I would definitely vote for the Lycoming at that time. The "real ones" are often criticized for being behind the times, but the truth is that they are tried and true, and have the advantage of being designed from the ground up as aircraft engines, and have benefited from years of improvement, and advances of material science. Since aircraft engines experience a very different operational profile than car engines, putting out 100% power at every takeoff, and then 65-75% continuously thereafter, until descent and landing, all of their parts were designed with that operation profile in mind, from the crankshaft to the valves. They are often compared to tractor engines, and with good reason, since a tractor also needs to put out a high percentage of its power continuously. Tractor engines are, of course, heavy, so they are not a good choice for airplanes. The "real ones" have been developed to produce the most power at the least weight, retaining the highest reliability possible. System simplicity is one of the ways that this is achieved. Now, we Kitfox pilots are flying airplanes that are in the class called "experimental", so this opens the door for trying different things, which is the decision that you are of course struggling with. I would try to make the choice depending on where my flights are likely to be carried out, just how much night flight you anticipate, and how much you will 'enjoy' the systems complication associated with the Subbie. Also try to remember how the different engines and especially their major components look to you comparatively whenever you have seen them displayed at shows. Here is where I rest my case for the "real ones", but if your anticipated flight profiles give you the opportunity to experiment with your power unit, then use the car engine, and join the ranks of those who are in a continuous mode of solving carburetor problems, cooling leaks, gearbox issues, and head gasket concerns, ignition system questions, oil leaks, not to mention the stress factors that arise due to the loads that are passed through an engine that was designed to be connected to a bell housing/transmission, and not to have the gyro loads of a propeller induced into its 'block' and then taken on through to a mounting system that was not the one considered by its designer. Your type 5 is well able to do mild aerobatics, so if you anticipate doing any of these, then you would want to be sure your power unit will not get sick before you do. Yes, I know, some of the most famous military craft have liquid cooling, and a geared propeller. They also were designed from the ground up as aircraft, and military ones at that, so I contend that they make a poor comparison or justification for those systems in a civilian light plane. Whichever you choose, do install the "help me Joe" kit offered by John McBean, this will do wonders to refine the control system, and keep the back pressure needed under control on approaches, since you will have an airplane that tends to be nose heavy, and the elevator has no aero-counter force designed in. This spring coupling is designed for the model 5's thru 7's, and in my opinion is an essential improvement when heavier engines are used. Duane Rueb, N24ZM -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Glenn Horne Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 5:29 AM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: 0-235 vs Turbo Subaru The Lyc. No question about it. There are only two engine to fly behind.Lyc. 7 Cont. GG ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Corner" <jcorner(at)shaw.ca> Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 12:12 AM Subject: Kitfox-List: 0-235 vs Turbo Subaru > > This is maybe a problem that most of you wish you had..... and to many > the answer might be very obvious. > > I have 1 each of the above two engines, one I purchased and the other I > received on a debt owing. For this question assume that installed cost > is about the same. > > Installed weights are about the same...... and one of these engines is > going into a Kitfox Model 5, I just can't seem to make a final decision > and stick with it. > > The Sube has more power 150+ vs 115 for the Lyc > > The Lyc has a longer proven history of reliability, and perhaps a little > easier to install and maintain. > > The S5 Kitfox will be equipped for night flying, i don't expect any hard > IFR, floats may come later. > > One week I am convinced that I will install the Sube, next the Lyc. > > Have to make up my mind very soon, pre-cover inspection coming right up. > > Which one should I install? Comments appreciated. > > Jim > > PS: I currently fly a Model 2, 582 s/n 575 just over 1100 hrs. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 06, 2006
From: W Duke <n981ms(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Vixen: Fuel Gauge Leak.. and Clear Fuel Line Recommendation
Hi, I also have the IO240. I was aware of the service bulletin and I am dreading the apparently inevitable. I was curious how many hours were on your engine at the time of failure. I think Danny Melnick had a failure at something like 250 hours. Unfortunately I have no experience with clear fuel tubing to share. Thanks, Maxwell S6/TD/IO240 FlyboyTR wrote: I have been having on-going issues with my Vixen. The engine is currently off awaiting parts for the Continental IO-240 starter. This is the link to that problem if you're interested. http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=19174 Yesterday I noticed fuel dripping off the side of the plane. According to the fuel gauges I had lost around 14 gallons! It was dripping out of the wing, running into the aileron...dripping out of the aileron and down the side of the fuselage. Turned the fuel valves off and siphoned the tank. Today we folded the right wing to access the fuel fittings. There was nothing obvious until I realized the sight gauge fitting at the bottom was loose...it would move in and out about 1/8". This is the semi rigid gauge. Removed, inspected and determined it had to be the culprit...just loose! Reinstalled and everything is dry. I will check the other side tomorrow! Before re-installing the sight gauge I cut a length of red spray spout tubing (the little hose that comes on a can of WD-40, etc) and inserted it into the sight gauge. I had read about this in an old post but there was no mention of how well it worked. As I was adding fuel (checking for the leak) my wife was the first to notice the difference in ease of reading the sight gauge. I was quite impressed when I looked at it...much easier to see and identify the fuel level. Now, to my needs... :) I want to replace the clear fuel line that runs from the header tank (behind the seat) to the top of the right fuel tank. In years past I have used vinyl fuel line but always had easy access for inspection purposes. I would like to know what is now (since I've been away from flying for some time...) considered to be the best clear fuel line for this type of application? ID is 1/4". As always, any and all help/input will be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Travis :) -------- Travis Rayner Mobile, AL Skystar Vixen N-789DF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=79440#79440 Maxwell Duke S6/IO240/Phase II Flight Testing --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fox5flyer" <fox5flyer@i-star.com>
Subject: Re: 0-235 vs Turbo Subaru
Date: Dec 06, 2006
Good narrative Duane. Even though I'm a Soob driver I agree with all of it. However, if it weren't for us experimenters, even the Lycosaurs' and Conts wouldn't be around today. :-) It sounds as if you must have installed the spring coupler in 24ZM. Can you be more specific on how it works, what is included with the kit, and what it costs? Thanks, Deke > > Jim: > > Direct drive and a single cooling system, maintainability > 'anywhere' would favor the Lycoming. Assuming that both engines are in > good serviceable condition, I know which one I would rather be flying > behind when, say approximately 100 miles west of Denver at 13,500 ft. > (for a brief period). I would definitely vote for the Lycoming at that > time. > The "real ones" are often criticized for being behind the times, > but the truth is that they are tried and true, and have the advantage of > being designed from the ground up as aircraft engines, and have > benefited from years of improvement, and advances of material science. > Since aircraft engines experience a very different operational profile > than car engines, putting out 100% power at every takeoff, and then > 65-75% continuously thereafter, until descent and landing, all of their > parts were designed with that operation profile in mind, from the > crankshaft to the valves. They are often compared to tractor engines, > and with good reason, since a tractor also needs to put out a high > percentage of its power continuously. Tractor engines are, of course, > heavy, so they are not a good choice for airplanes. > The "real ones" have been developed to produce the most power at > the least weight, retaining the highest reliability possible. System > simplicity is one of the ways that this is achieved. > Now, we Kitfox pilots are flying airplanes that are in the class > called "experimental", so this opens the door for trying different > things, which is the decision that you are of course struggling with. > I would try to make the choice depending on where my flights are likely > to be carried out, just how much night flight you anticipate, and how > much you will 'enjoy' the systems complication associated with the > Subbie. > Also try to remember how the different engines and especially > their major components look to you comparatively whenever you have seen > them displayed at shows. Here is where I rest my case for the "real > ones", but if your anticipated flight profiles give you the opportunity > to experiment with your power unit, then use the car engine, and join > the ranks of those who are in a continuous mode of solving carburetor > problems, cooling leaks, gearbox issues, and head gasket concerns, > ignition system questions, oil leaks, not to mention the stress factors > that arise due to the loads that are passed through an engine that was > designed to be connected to a bell housing/transmission, and not to have > the gyro loads of a propeller induced into its 'block' and then taken on > through to a mounting system that was not the one considered by its > designer. Your type 5 is well able to do mild aerobatics, so if you > anticipate doing any of these, then you would want to be sure your power > unit will not get sick before you do. > Yes, I know, some of the most famous military craft have liquid > cooling, and a geared propeller. They also were designed from the > ground up as aircraft, and military ones at that, so I contend that they > make a poor comparison or justification for those systems in a civilian > light plane. > Whichever you choose, do install the "help me Joe" kit offered > by John McBean, this will do wonders to refine the control system, and > keep the back pressure needed under control on approaches, since you > will have an airplane that tends to be nose heavy, and the elevator has > no aero-counter force designed in. This spring coupling is designed > for the model 5's thru 7's, and in my opinion is an essential > improvement when heavier engines are used. > > Duane Rueb, N24ZM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca>
Subject: Oil Filter Thoughts
Date: Dec 06, 2006
Start your engine on a very cold day.... Your by pass will come into play. Even the pressure bypasses on a 206 Jet ranger will pop on a cold day... Once warmed up just reset the bypasses. (206 pressure by passes need to be physically reset to indicate the next bypass episode.) Noel > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of > Lowell Fitt > Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 6:08 PM > To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Oil Filter Thoughts > > > > > I also agree with Nicks thoughts. The bypass comes in to play, in my > estimation with an abused system - inadequate oil changes. > > I have thought a lot about the tendency of the oil draining > into the crank > case from the tank and possible solutions. I have to "burp" > mine before > flight as well and in the past, it took fewer compression > strokes after an > oil change, then progressively more as the hours mounted. > > The geometry of the system is as mike states. The oil tank > being higher > than the Rotax recommended position will siphon the oil in > the tank back to > the crankcase. This actually sould be stated as "forward" > into the crank > case as the return line is higher than the oil level in the > tank and any > movement of oil from the tank to the crank case is in a > forward direction > through the pick-up line - tank, pick-up tube, oil cooler, > oil pump, oil > filter oil journals and crank case. Neither the bypass valve nor the > anti-drainback valve are involved with the movement of the > oil because there > is very little pressure and the oil is moving from the tank > to the engine in > the normal direction. > > Since the oil is purged from the crank case by blowby gasses, > I always > thought the relative fit of the rings and valves would > determine the bypass > pressure and be the predominant factor in the number of > compression strokes > needed to fill the oil tank, i.e., a good tight engine - low > bypass gasses > and lots of strokes, a tired worn engine (or a new engine) > with lots of > bypass - few strokes. I think other factors involved are oil > temperatures - > thickness of the oil and the duration between flights. My > guess is that > most of the flow from the tank occurs immediately after > shutdown when the > oil is warm and relatively thinner. I have burped several > days before a > flight and the oil remained fairly high on the dipstick at > flight time. > > Much of this is opinion and I am interested in other's thoughts. > > Lowell > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Fox5flyer" <fox5flyer@i-star.com> > To: > Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 9:25 AM > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Oil Filter Thoughts > > > Nick, that's good information and I agree that the bypass > spring is most > likely not the problem. However, I believe the filter's > anti-drain back > membrane (check valve) can be a possible cause. An > ineffective check valve > will let too much, or even all, of the oil to drain back into > the crankcase > which would take a lot of flips of the prop to create enough > pressure to > push oil past the filter and into the reservoir to the point that it > "burps", which, as I see it, is nothing more than the air in > the line being > evacuated. > I might be totally wrong on this, but it makes sense to me. > A hundred or more prop pulls would wear a guy out! > Deke > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Nick Scholtes > To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 12:03 PM > Subject: Kitfox-List: Oil Filter Thoughts > > > Randy and Jimmie, > > I've been following this oil filter thread a bit, and > couldn't help jumping > in a bit. I'm not an oil-filter expert by any means, so I'm kinda' > speculating here, but here goes: > > I believe that the "number of compression strokes" and the "different > pressure relief value" are totally different issues, and are totally > unrelated. I also believe that the alleged "different > pressure relieve > value" of the Rotax filter is no reason whatsoever to > purchase the Rotax > filter, but it's the only thing that Rotax can point to to > differentiate > their filter and justify their price. > > An oil filter's pressure relief system is a safety system and > it only comes > into play when the filter is completely clogged, and the > pressure across the > filter builds to the point where the filter may burst (or the > engine may be > damaged due to all of the pressure drop being across the > filter). The > filter has a valve in it that will open, bypassing the > "filter" part, and > simply allowing oil to flow past, unfiltered. Again, this > only happens in a > non-normal situation, and will only be brought on by the > filter producing > enough resistance to the oil flow that the pressure across > the filter builds > high enough to pop the bypass valve. And I emphasize that > the pressure > across the filter is what matters, just because a motor has a > high pressure > oil pump doesn't mean that the bypass valve should be > bypassing, even with a > high pressure oil pump the filter should still be able to > flow enough volume > of oil to keep the pressure drop across the filter to a minimum. > > In an aircraft situation where the oil is changed religiously > and the engine > is maintained well, I just don't see the relief valve ever > coming into play, > and in the odd situation that it would, the value is somewhat > irrelevant, as > long as it goes into bypass before there's a catastrophic > failure, that's > all that matters. So, CarQuest or Rotax, who is to say that > one picked a > better pressure bypass number than the other? I want a > bypass value high > enough that it NEVER goes into bypass in normal operation. > > Anyway, in my opinion, there are several things that can > differentiate an > oil filter: The "fineness" of the filter (usually measured > in microns), the > quality and hence longevity of the filter material, and the > bypass pressure > value. The bypass pressure value is a non-issue, in my opinion. > > The "fineness" could be what is contributing to the different > number of > compression strokes, maybe the Rotax filter has a finer mesh than the > CarQuest. > > After I wrote the above, I did a Google search on "How an oil > filter works", > and there are a couple of really good pages there that talk > about the bypass > valve, and also a different type of filtering technique > called "bypass > filtering" (not related to the bypass valve), and pages that > talk about > differences in fineness, and also differences in quality. > Interesting > reading on this topic. > > Nick > > > > > From: "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh(at)rapidnet.com> > Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Oil Filters for 912UL > > Jimmie, > > > > What does the amount of blow-by have to do with whether all > the oil goes > through the filter or not? The number of > compression strokes should have everything to do with ring leakage and > nothing to do with by-passing the oil filter. ??????? > > > I have been trying to get info on the pressure values for the pressure > relief valves. It is not easy to come by! > > > Randy > > > . > > 3D=================== > =====================3 > D=== > 3D=================== > =====================3 > D=== > 3D=================== > =====================3 > D=== > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 0-235 vs Turbo Subaru
Date: Dec 06, 2006
From: "Rueb, Duane" <ruebd(at)skymail.csus.edu>
Deke, and list: Yes, I did install the "help me Joe" kit into N24ZM. It was priced at $85 when I purchased it, and it couples the elevator to the flaps, and installs behind the seat. The only thing that might improve the kit would be a suggestion as to how to stretch the fairly stiff (for human strength, and the position available if working through the seat access panels that are in my plane) spring. What I did with Milts help was to first put the spring in a bench vice and stretch it just enough to insert a (approx 3/4") nylon strap between some coils near the end that we would be pulling from, then with two people working, with one pulling the straps, and the other guiding the sprint to the front hook point. If the airplane has no access panels in the seat back, you will have to remove the seat, which will make attaching the spring easier, so you may not feel you need to use a strap, but it worked so well, that it may still be the best approach. Take note of the elevator droop you have before you install this kit, and after, and you will see quite a difference. The elevator no longer droops, and will stay level. The real change is when the flaps are put in as on an approach, where the spring now helps you with the extra back pressure/trim now needed. On mine, the trim can now compensate for this, allowing neutral or very near neutral stick back pressure with one notch of flap at an approach speed of 60-65mph indicated. With full flap, some additional back pressure is needed, but much less than before. I think that this kit results in a better control system feel all around, too, not just on approaches. Duane -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fox5flyer Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 10:51 AM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: 0-235 vs Turbo Subaru Good narrative Duane. Even though I'm a Soob driver I agree with all of it. However, if it weren't for us experimenters, even the Lycosaurs' and Conts wouldn't be around today. :-) It sounds as if you must have installed the spring coupler in 24ZM. Can you be more specific on how it works, what is included with the kit, and what it costs? Thanks, Deke > > Jim: > > Direct drive and a single cooling system, maintainability > 'anywhere' would favor the Lycoming. Assuming that both engines are in > good serviceable condition, I know which one I would rather be flying > behind when, say approximately 100 miles west of Denver at 13,500 ft. > (for a brief period). I would definitely vote for the Lycoming at that > time. > The "real ones" are often criticized for being behind the times, > but the truth is that they are tried and true, and have the advantage of > being designed from the ground up as aircraft engines, and have > benefited from years of improvement, and advances of material science. > Since aircraft engines experience a very different operational profile > than car engines, putting out 100% power at every takeoff, and then > 65-75% continuously thereafter, until descent and landing, all of their > parts were designed with that operation profile in mind, from the > crankshaft to the valves. They are often compared to tractor engines, > and with good reason, since a tractor also needs to put out a high > percentage of its power continuously. Tractor engines are, of course, > heavy, so they are not a good choice for airplanes. > The "real ones" have been developed to produce the most power at > the least weight, retaining the highest reliability possible. System > simplicity is one of the ways that this is achieved. > Now, we Kitfox pilots are flying airplanes that are in the class > called "experimental", so this opens the door for trying different > things, which is the decision that you are of course struggling with. > I would try to make the choice depending on where my flights are likely > to be carried out, just how much night flight you anticipate, and how > much you will 'enjoy' the systems complication associated with the > Subbie. > Also try to remember how the different engines and especially > their major components look to you comparatively whenever you have seen > them displayed at shows. Here is where I rest my case for the "real > ones", but if your anticipated flight profiles give you the opportunity > to experiment with your power unit, then use the car engine, and join > the ranks of those who are in a continuous mode of solving carburetor > problems, cooling leaks, gearbox issues, and head gasket concerns, > ignition system questions, oil leaks, not to mention the stress factors > that arise due to the loads that are passed through an engine that was > designed to be connected to a bell housing/transmission, and not to have > the gyro loads of a propeller induced into its 'block' and then taken on > through to a mounting system that was not the one considered by its > designer. Your type 5 is well able to do mild aerobatics, so if you > anticipate doing any of these, then you would want to be sure your power > unit will not get sick before you do. > Yes, I know, some of the most famous military craft have liquid > cooling, and a geared propeller. They also were designed from the > ground up as aircraft, and military ones at that, so I contend that they > make a poor comparison or justification for those systems in a civilian > light plane. > Whichever you choose, do install the "help me Joe" kit offered > by John McBean, this will do wonders to refine the control system, and > keep the back pressure needed under control on approaches, since you > will have an airplane that tends to be nose heavy, and the elevator has > no aero-counter force designed in. This spring coupling is designed > for the model 5's thru 7's, and in my opinion is an essential > improvement when heavier engines are used. > > Duane Rueb, N24ZM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 06, 2006
From: "Glenn Horne" <glennflys(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: 0-235 vs Turbo Subaru
You are right. Each to their own. For me there are only two. Lyc. & Cont. GG ----- Original Message ----- From: "john perry" <eskflyer(at)lvcisp.com> Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 9:13 AM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: 0-235 vs Turbo Subaru > > I dont know who brain washed you but , your wrong . There are many engines > to fly behind . They are all mechanical and will break at some point . > That said I have flown behind 2 strokes and never had a engine out . I > have flown behind continentals and have had rods thrown threw the case . I > have flown behind subbies and never had a problem . ahve flown behind > Lycomings and had mags fail . HMMMMM whats the better engine , each to > there own i guess. > > John Perry > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Glenn Horne" <glennflys(at)verizon.net> > To: > Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 7:28 AM > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: 0-235 vs Turbo Subaru > > >> >> The Lyc. No question about it. There are only two engine to fly >> behind.Lyc. 7 Cont. >> GG >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Jim Corner" <jcorner(at)shaw.ca> >> To: >> Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 12:12 AM >> Subject: Kitfox-List: 0-235 vs Turbo Subaru >> >> >>> >>> This is maybe a problem that most of you wish you had..... and to many >>> the answer might be very obvious. >>> >>> I have 1 each of the above two engines, one I purchased and the other I >>> received on a debt owing. For this question assume that installed cost >>> is about the same. >>> >>> Installed weights are about the same...... and one of these engines is >>> going into a Kitfox Model 5, I just can't seem to make a final decision >>> and stick with it. >>> >>> The Sube has more power 150+ vs 115 for the Lyc >>> >>> The Lyc has a longer proven history of reliability, and perhaps a >>> little easier to install and maintain. >>> >>> The S5 Kitfox will be equipped for night flying, i don't expect any >>> hard IFR, floats may come later. >>> >>> One week I am convinced that I will install the Sube, next the Lyc. >>> >>> Have to make up my mind very soon, pre-cover inspection coming right up. >>> >>> Which one should I install? Comments appreciated. >>> >>> Jim >>> >>> PS: I currently fly a Model 2, 582 s/n 575 just over 1100 hrs. >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dave" <dave(at)cfisher.com>
Subject: Re: 0-235 vs Turbo Subaru
Date: Dec 06, 2006
Don't forget the franklins........ and yes Rotax a dominant player. I would take a 912 over a soob anyday for a floatplane especially. Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "Glenn Horne" <glennflys(at)verizon.net> Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 2:55 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: 0-235 vs Turbo Subaru > > You are right. Each to their own. > For me there are only two. Lyc. & Cont. > GG > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "john perry" <eskflyer(at)lvcisp.com> > To: > Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 9:13 AM > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: 0-235 vs Turbo Subaru > > >> >> I dont know who brain washed you but , your wrong . There are many >> engines to fly behind . They are all mechanical and will break at some >> point . That said I have flown behind 2 strokes and never had a engine >> out . I have flown behind continentals and have had rods thrown threw >> the case . I have flown behind subbies and never had a problem . ahve >> flown behind Lycomings and had mags fail . HMMMMM whats the better engine >> , each to there own i guess. >> >> John Perry >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Glenn Horne" <glennflys(at)verizon.net> >> To: >> Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 7:28 AM >> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: 0-235 vs Turbo Subaru >> >> >>> >>> The Lyc. No question about it. There are only two engine to fly >>> behind.Lyc. 7 Cont. >>> GG >>> ----- Original Message ----- >>> From: "Jim Corner" <jcorner(at)shaw.ca> >>> To: >>> Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 12:12 AM >>> Subject: Kitfox-List: 0-235 vs Turbo Subaru >>> >>> >>>> >>>> This is maybe a problem that most of you wish you had..... and to many >>>> the answer might be very obvious. >>>> >>>> I have 1 each of the above two engines, one I purchased and the other >>>> I received on a debt owing. For this question assume that installed >>>> cost is about the same. >>>> >>>> Installed weights are about the same...... and one of these engines >>>> is going into a Kitfox Model 5, I just can't seem to make a final >>>> decision and stick with it. >>>> >>>> The Sube has more power 150+ vs 115 for the Lyc >>>> >>>> The Lyc has a longer proven history of reliability, and perhaps a >>>> little easier to install and maintain. >>>> >>>> The S5 Kitfox will be equipped for night flying, i don't expect any >>>> hard IFR, floats may come later. >>>> >>>> One week I am convinced that I will install the Sube, next the Lyc. >>>> >>>> Have to make up my mind very soon, pre-cover inspection coming right >>>> up. >>>> >>>> Which one should I install? Comments appreciated. >>>> >>>> Jim >>>> >>>> PS: I currently fly a Model 2, 582 s/n 575 just over 1100 hrs. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RE:Clear Fuel Line Recommendation
Date: Dec 06, 2006
Larry, This is Polyurethane line I've been using from Spruce. The line stays soft but will turn yellow with age especially if you let the lines go dry of fuel for a couple days??? I still replace all soft fuel lines every two years. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/polyurethanetubing.php Don Smythe ----- Original Message ----- From: Larry Martin To: Kitfox-List(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 8:40 AM Subject: Kitfox-List: RE:Clear Fuel Line Recommendation My line of choice is urethane hose available at any snowmobile/dirt bike place. They have been using it for years and it stays flexible. Locally, about $1.00/ft. I plan to redo all my lines with it this spring. larry ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Sjklerks(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 06, 2006
Subject: Re: Oil Filter Thoughts
Hi Bill, I installed a shut off valve in the oil line. Mine was filling the crankcase and causing a prop lock. If the prop was not locked up it would smoke and cover the underneath with oil. I also added some literature in my walk around check list to turn valve on and I also put a tag warning to turn valve on a clip and clip it to the master switch before putting plane back into hangar. I haven't had a problem since. JIm ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rex Shaw" <rexjan(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Rotax 582 plugs
Date: Dec 07, 2006
Subject: Kitfox-List: Spark Plug Gap Can anyone tell me the proper spark plug for a Rotax 582? Frank Hi ! Frank, The Rotax recomended plug is NGK B8ES for the grey head and BR8ES for the Blue head. The "R" is for resistor. Really you should not use resistor plugs with resistor caps although I think Rotax did it with the blue head 582. Generally use resistor either in the plug or the cap but not both to help with ignition noise in the radio. A resistor plug and resistor cap have been used together for persistent cases of interference and if you really need both I guess you can use both but personally I wouldn't. The high [ typically 5K + 5K = 10K ] resistance increases the voltage build up before the plug fires. This might have a slight advantage re firing under some conditions although offset by the lower firing current, however the higher voltage is more likely to lead to a CDI [ Capacitive Discharge Ignition ] failure. Generally you will get a better spark the lower the resistance. Sometimes you will see Rotax distributors listing the plug as a number rather than B8ES etc. This is mainly to just get you to buy from them, however there is another suttle difference. The little screw on cap. This can be brass, aluminium, fixed or with the right caps you just use the thread. My choice out of all this is the resistor plug with a non resistor cap with just the thread being used. My reasoning is using just the thread makes it more secure and you don't have issues with the aluminium caps or the caps coming lose. I also prefer the resistor in the plug rather than the cap because it can and does fail. If it's in the plug you are changing it when you change plugs and the extra cost of a resistor plug is minimal. To complicate it a bit though I'm now going to tell you that I use NGK BR8EIX plugs. These are Iridium and used in inverted motors. The reason being is they stand up to the harder conditions like fouling etc. As you can see the BR8E part is the same the IX is for "I" fine Iridium centre electrode. "X" Booster gap [ "S" standard centre electrode.] Now I haven't checked but I'm not sure if you can get this plug with the screw on cap so you can use just the thread. I am using fixed cap plugs at the moment but will change if I can shortly. These plugs are working really well for me with non resistor caps. You can get whatever caps you need from an auto parts store. Rotax recommended gap setting is 16 to 20 thou. I set mine to 20 thou. This raises another point if you use the Iridium plugs. The packet says not to adjust the gap and from memory it's set about 30 thou. Not a good idea for our application. However you can adjust the gap just be very carefull not to stress the very fine iridium centre electrode especially by pulling a feeler gauge across it and putting side pressure one it that's all. Rex. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rex Shaw" <rexjan(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Tail wheels
Date: Dec 07, 2006
About the only thing I can take issue with is the Maule tailwheel. The hard rubber type is a 6" unit and I think it's about a pound lighter than the pneumatic type which is an 8" inch unit. Have you considered the Home Builders Special? Very light and soft rubber for a better ride. Might even be lighter than the Maule 6 inch. Dave, I use the 6" Home Builders Special wheel from Aircraft Spruce and I would totally agree it's well worth considering. I changed from that horible Maule SFSA solid wheel and the difference is amazing. It runs very much quieter and gives much better control. It cost less than $30 although you need to address the bearing and axle size issues. The bearings that come in the wheel are total rubbish and for a 5/8" axle. The Maule SFSA tail wheel assembly is 1/2" axle. Just go to a bearing supply shop and get the right size sealed bearings with a circlip to stop them sliding into the wheel too far. I have no experience with the pneumatic wheel but believe it is also a good answer to the shocking solid Maule wheel. However the Homebuilders wheel is a lot cheaper way to go. Several including Lynn and Michel on this list have gone this way and I'm sure they are also very satisfied with the decision. Rex. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dave" <dave(at)cfisher.com>
Subject: Re: Rotax 582 plugs
Date: Dec 06, 2006
Rex, I have a few things to add. when you buy BR8ES or B8ES from a Rotax dealer they will most likely have solid tips and not screw on tips. Screw on tips are bad news as they are softer than the llittle clip inside those 5k ohm cap which is steel. Also they come pre gapped about .016 to 020 so adjust will be minimal wheras bought form other place I have seen them .030 or larger gap. That take a good bend to adjust gap. I have asked several Rotax dealers about the iridiums and they say no gain to be had but a owners choice. I have just shy of 100 hours on my plugs now in my Blue head since July and still running fine and I checked about 5 hours ago and they had minimal deposits on them and looked good. I use only regular gas and bombardier XPS mineral oil. Now the gray head uses ducati igntion as well but the older ones had points and in that case you are correct to use B8ES and 5k resistor caps but not resistor plugs and caps on point ignition. I have had Blue heads and gray heads and performance wise they about the same. I would suggest that Solid tip plugs from rotax is the best choice. The plug caps can and will fall off other wise. Some will safety wire , tiewrap etc but why not just use the proper plug ? Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: Rex Shaw To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 2:25 PM Subject: Kitfox-List: Rotax 582 plugs Subject: Kitfox-List: Spark Plug Gap Can anyone tell me the proper spark plug for a Rotax 582? Frank Hi ! Frank, The Rotax recomended plug is NGK B8ES for the grey head and BR8ES for the Blue head. The "R" is for resistor. Really you should not use resistor plugs with resistor caps although I think Rotax did it with the blue head 582. Generally use resistor either in the plug or the cap but not both to help with ignition noise in the radio. A resistor plug and resistor cap have been used together for persistent cases of interference and if you really need both I guess you can use both but personally I wouldn't. The high [ typically 5K + 5K = 10K ] resistance increases the voltage build up before the plug fires. This might have a slight advantage re firing under some conditions although offset by the lower firing current, however the higher voltage is more likely to lead to a CDI [ Capacitive Discharge Ignition ] failure. Generally you will get a better spark the lower the resistance. Sometimes you will see Rotax distributors listing the plug as a number rather than B8ES etc. This is mainly to just get you to buy from them, however there is another suttle difference. The little screw on cap. This can be brass, aluminium, fixed or with the right caps you just use the thread. My choice out of all this is the resistor plug with a non resistor cap with just the thread being used. My reasoning is using just the thread makes it more secure and you don't have issues with the aluminium caps or the caps coming lose. I also prefer the resistor in the plug rather than the cap because it can and does fail. If it's in the plug you are changing it when you change plugs and the extra cost of a resistor plug is minimal. To complicate it a bit though I'm now going to tell you that I use NGK BR8EIX plugs. These are Iridium and used in inverted motors. The reason being is they stand up to the harder conditions like fouling etc. As you can see the BR8E part is the same the IX is for "I" fine Iridium centre electrode. "X" Booster gap [ "S" standard centre electrode.] Now I haven't checked but I'm not sure if you can get this plug with the screw on cap so you can use just the thread. I am using fixed cap plugs at the moment but will change if I can shortly. These plugs are working really well for me with non resistor caps. You can get whatever caps you need from an auto parts store. Rotax recommended gap setting is 16 to 20 thou. I set mine to 20 thou. This raises another point if you use the Iridium plugs. The packet says not to adjust the gap and from memory it's set about 30 thou. Not a good idea for our application. However you can adjust the gap just be very carefull not to stress the very fine iridium centre electrode especially by pulling a feeler gauge across it and putting side pressure one it that's all. Rex. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dave" <dave(at)cfisher.com>
Subject: Re: Tail wheels
Date: Dec 06, 2006
Matco has now the 6 inch wheel pneumatic http://www.matcomfg.com/ I have a solid tailwheel and works fine although now that ground is frozen they trasmit the shock and noise more so. Who cares -- > Skis on soon ( forecast 12 to 18 inches in next 24 hours. :) ) Also - I have used matco 6 inch solids on front of amphib floats this season. They work ok but I would like a 7 or 8 inch tall wheel to fit but they are hard to find. ( pneumatic ) That is why I talk to Matco last week for sizing on the new wheel. Hope that helps Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: Rex Shaw To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 2:43 PM Subject: Kitfox-List: Tail wheels About the only thing I can take issue with is the Maule tailwheel. The hard rubber type is a 6" unit and I think it's about a pound lighter than the pneumatic type which is an 8" inch unit. Have you considered the Home Builders Special? Very light and soft rubber for a better ride. Might even be lighter than the Maule 6 inch. Dave, I use the 6" Home Builders Special wheel from Aircraft Spruce and I would totally agree it's well worth considering. I changed from that horible Maule SFSA solid wheel and the difference is amazing. It runs very much quieter and gives much better control. It cost less than $30 although you need to address the bearing and axle size issues. The bearings that come in the wheel are total rubbish and for a 5/8" axle. The Maule SFSA tail wheel assembly is 1/2" axle. Just go to a bearing supply shop and get the right size sealed bearings with a circlip to stop them sliding into the wheel too far. I have no experience with the pneumatic wheel but believe it is also a good answer to the shocking solid Maule wheel. However the Homebuilders wheel is a lot cheaper way to go. Several including Lynn and Michel on this list have gone this way and I'm sure they are also very satisfied with the decision. Rex. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Rotax 582 plugs
Date: Dec 06, 2006
I was not aware that the NGK BR/B8 plugs came with anything other than the standard screw on top. These are standard out of the box plugs for many applications. Are you saying that Rotax modifies these standard plugs for Rotax use or does NGK produce a plug that is modified for aircraft use? I'm confused? I've always used the standard (auto parts store) NGK plugs however, I perform a minor adjustment to the screw on top. I "stake" the cap lightly with a cold chisel to secure it to the threads. I also use a different little method to close the .030 gap to .016. Don Smythe ----- Original Message ----- From: dave To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 8:21 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Rotax 582 plugs Rex, I have a few things to add. when you buy BR8ES or B8ES from a Rotax dealer they will most likely have solid tips and not screw on tips. Screw on tips are bad news as they are softer than the llittle clip inside those 5k ohm cap which is steel. Also they come pre gapped about .016 to 020 so adjust will be minimal wheras bought form other place I have seen them .030 or larger gap. That take a good bend to adjust gap. I have asked several Rotax dealers about the iridiums and they say no gain to be had but a owners choice. I have just shy of 100 hours on my plugs now in my Blue head since July and still running fine and I checked about 5 hours ago and they had minimal deposits on them and looked good. I use only regular gas and bombardier XPS mineral oil. Now the gray head uses ducati igntion as well but the older ones had points and in that case you are correct to use B8ES and 5k resistor caps but not resistor plugs and caps on point ignition. I have had Blue heads and gray heads and performance wise they about the same. I would suggest that Solid tip plugs from rotax is the best choice. The plug caps can and will fall off other wise. Some will safety wire , tiewrap etc but why not just use the proper plug ? Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: Rex Shaw To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 2:25 PM Subject: Kitfox-List: Rotax 582 plugs Subject: Kitfox-List: Spark Plug Gap Can anyone tell me the proper spark plug for a Rotax 582? Frank Hi ! Frank, The Rotax recomended plug is NGK B8ES for the grey head and BR8ES for the Blue head. The "R" is for resistor. Really you should not use resistor plugs with resistor caps although I think Rotax did it with the blue head 582. Generally use resistor either in the plug or the cap but not both to help with ignition noise in the radio. A resistor plug and resistor cap have been used together for persistent cases of interference and if you really need both I guess you can use both but personally I wouldn't. The high [ typically 5K + 5K = 10K ] resistance increases the voltage build up before the plug fires. This might have a slight advantage re firing under some conditions although offset by the lower firing current, however the higher voltage is more likely to lead to a CDI [ Capacitive Discharge Ignition ] failure. Generally you will get a better spark the lower the resistance. Sometimes you will see Rotax distributors listing the plug as a number rather than B8ES etc. This is mainly to just get you to buy from them, however there is another suttle difference. The little screw on cap. This can be brass, aluminium, fixed or with the right caps you just use the thread. My choice out of all this is the resistor plug with a non resistor cap with just the thread being used. My reasoning is using just the thread makes it more secure and you don't have issues with the aluminium caps or the caps coming lose. I also prefer the resistor in the plug rather than the cap because it can and does fail. If it's in the plug you are changing it when you change plugs and the extra cost of a resistor plug is minimal. To complicate it a bit though I'm now going to tell you that I use NGK BR8EIX plugs. These are Iridium and used in inverted motors. The reason being is they stand up to the harder conditions like fouling etc. As you can see the BR8E part is the same the IX is for "I" fine Iridium centre electrode. "X" Booster gap [ "S" standard centre electrode.] Now I haven't checked but I'm not sure if you can get this plug with the screw on cap so you can use just the thread. I am using fixed cap plugs at the moment but will change if I can shortly. These plugs are working really well for me with non resistor caps. You can get whatever caps you need from an auto parts store. Rotax recommended gap setting is 16 to 20 thou. I set mine to 20 thou. This raises another point if you use the Iridium plugs. The packet says not to adjust the gap and from memory it's set about 30 thou. Not a good idea for our application. However you can adjust the gap just be very carefull not to stress the very fine iridium centre electrode especially by pulling a feeler gauge across it and putting side pressure one it that's all. Rex. href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List">http://www.matron ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dave" <dave(at)cfisher.com>
Subject: Re: Rotax 582 plugs
Date: Dec 06, 2006
Ok Don, I did a quick search on Google and found some info here http://www.rotaxservice.com/rotax_tips/rotax_feed2.htm Hope this helps , Dave ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------- Spark Plugs The recommended spark plugs are the NGK B8ES or BR8ES. The "R" denotes a resistance which helps suppress radio interference. The use of spark plugs with a solid tip, rather than the screwed-on tip, is mandatory. The latter can unscrew itself in flight and dislodge the spark plug connector cap, creating an ignition failure. Spark plug gap a.. Allowable range: 0.4-0.5mm / .016-.020" b.. Optimal: 0.45mm / .018" c.. The gap can be reduced to its allowable minimum to help starting in very cold conditions To be avoided: a.. Other spark plug models and other manufacturers' equivalents b.. Screwed-on tips c.. Unverified spark plug gaps d.. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- More here . scroll to bottom http://www.ultralightnews.ca/articles/resistorcapsandplugs.htm ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------- Also here http://www.auf.asn.au/airworthiness/rotax_447_plugs.pdf ----- Original Message ----- From: Don Smythe To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 9:00 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Rotax 582 plugs I was not aware that the NGK BR/B8 plugs came with anything other than the standard screw on top. These are standard out of the box plugs for many applications. Are you saying that Rotax modifies these standard plugs for Rotax use or does NGK produce a plug that is modified for aircraft use? I'm confused? I've always used the standard (auto parts store) NGK plugs however, I perform a minor adjustment to the screw on top. I "stake" the cap lightly with a cold chisel to secure it to the threads. I also use a different little method to close the .030 gap to .016. Don Smythe ----- Original Message ----- From: dave To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 8:21 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Rotax 582 plugs Rex, I have a few things to add. when you buy BR8ES or B8ES from a Rotax dealer they will most likely have solid tips and not screw on tips. Screw on tips are bad news as they are softer than the llittle clip inside those 5k ohm cap which is steel. Also they come pre gapped about .016 to 020 so adjust will be minimal wheras bought form other place I have seen them .030 or larger gap. That take a good bend to adjust gap. I have asked several Rotax dealers about the iridiums and they say no gain to be had but a owners choice. I have just shy of 100 hours on my plugs now in my Blue head since July and still running fine and I checked about 5 hours ago and they had minimal deposits on them and looked good. I use only regular gas and bombardier XPS mineral oil. Now the gray head uses ducati igntion as well but the older ones had points and in that case you are correct to use B8ES and 5k resistor caps but not resistor plugs and caps on point ignition. I have had Blue heads and gray heads and performance wise they about the same. I would suggest that Solid tip plugs from rotax is the best choice. The plug caps can and will fall off other wise. Some will safety wire , tiewrap etc but why not just use the proper plug ? Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: Rex Shaw To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 2:25 PM Subject: Kitfox-List: Rotax 582 plugs Subject: Kitfox-List: Spark Plug Gap Can anyone tell me the proper spark plug for a Rotax 582? Frank Hi ! Frank, The Rotax recomended plug is NGK B8ES for the grey head and BR8ES for the Blue head. The "R" is for resistor. Really you should not use resistor plugs with resistor caps although I think Rotax did it with the blue head 582. Generally use resistor either in the plug or the cap but not both to help with ignition noise in the radio. A resistor plug and resistor cap have been used together for persistent cases of interference and if you really need both I guess you can use both but personally I wouldn't. The high [ typically 5K + 5K = 10K ] resistance increases the voltage build up before the plug fires. This might have a slight advantage re firing under some conditions although offset by the lower firing current, however the higher voltage is more likely to lead to a CDI [ Capacitive Discharge Ignition ] failure. Generally you will get a better spark the lower the resistance. Sometimes you will see Rotax distributors listing the plug as a number rather than B8ES etc. This is mainly to just get you to buy from them, however there is another suttle difference. The little screw on cap. This can be brass, aluminium, fixed or with the right caps you just use the thread. My choice out of all this is the resistor plug with a non resistor cap with just the thread being used. My reasoning is using just the thread makes it more secure and you don't have issues with the aluminium caps or the caps coming lose. I also prefer the resistor in the plug rather than the cap because it can and does fail. If it's in the plug you are changing it when you change plugs and the extra cost of a resistor plug is minimal. To complicate it a bit though I'm now going to tell you that I use NGK BR8EIX plugs. These are Iridium and used in inverted motors. The reason being is they stand up to the harder conditions like fouling etc. As you can see the BR8E part is the same the IX is for "I" fine Iridium centre electrode. "X" Booster gap [ "S" standard centre electrode.] Now I haven't checked but I'm not sure if you can get this plug with the screw on cap so you can use just the thread. I am using fixed cap plugs at the moment but will change if I can shortly. These plugs are working really well for me with non resistor caps. You can get whatever caps you need from an auto parts store. Rotax recommended gap setting is 16 to 20 thou. I set mine to 20 thou. This raises another point if you use the Iridium plugs. The packet says not to adjust the gap and from memory it's set about 30 thou. Not a good idea for our application. However you can adjust the gap just be very carefull not to stress the very fine iridium centre electrode especially by pulling a feeler gauge across it and putting side pressure one it that's all. Rex. href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List">http://www.matron href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List">http://www.matron ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dave" <dave(at)cfisher.com>
Subject: Re: Rotax 582 plugs
Date: Dec 06, 2006
http://home.vicnet.net.au/~stclub/STC_ga/plugs.htm more talk here on NGK caps and plugs http://www.pcpros.net/~tvoss/techTip/200205.htm ----- Original Message ----- From: Don Smythe To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 9:00 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Rotax 582 plugs I was not aware that the NGK BR/B8 plugs came with anything other than the standard screw on top. These are standard out of the box plugs for many applications. Are you saying that Rotax modifies these standard plugs for Rotax use or does NGK produce a plug that is modified for aircraft use? I'm confused? I've always used the standard (auto parts store) NGK plugs however, I perform a minor adjustment to the screw on top. I "stake" the cap lightly with a cold chisel to secure it to the threads. I also use a different little method to close the .030 gap to .016. Don Smythe ----- Original Message ----- From: dave To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 8:21 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Rotax 582 plugs Rex, I have a few things to add. when you buy BR8ES or B8ES from a Rotax dealer they will most likely have solid tips and not screw on tips. Screw on tips are bad news as they are softer than the llittle clip inside those 5k ohm cap which is steel. Also they come pre gapped about .016 to 020 so adjust will be minimal wheras bought form other place I have seen them .030 or larger gap. That take a good bend to adjust gap. I have asked several Rotax dealers about the iridiums and they say no gain to be had but a owners choice. I have just shy of 100 hours on my plugs now in my Blue head since July and still running fine and I checked about 5 hours ago and they had minimal deposits on them and looked good. I use only regular gas and bombardier XPS mineral oil. Now the gray head uses ducati igntion as well but the older ones had points and in that case you are correct to use B8ES and 5k resistor caps but not resistor plugs and caps on point ignition. I have had Blue heads and gray heads and performance wise they about the same. I would suggest that Solid tip plugs from rotax is the best choice. The plug caps can and will fall off other wise. Some will safety wire , tiewrap etc but why not just use the proper plug ? Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: Rex Shaw To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 2:25 PM Subject: Kitfox-List: Rotax 582 plugs Subject: Kitfox-List: Spark Plug Gap Can anyone tell me the proper spark plug for a Rotax 582? Frank Hi ! Frank, The Rotax recomended plug is NGK B8ES for the grey head and BR8ES for the Blue head. The "R" is for resistor. Really you should not use resistor plugs with resistor caps although I think Rotax did it with the blue head 582. Generally use resistor either in the plug or the cap but not both to help with ignition noise in the radio. A resistor plug and resistor cap have been used together for persistent cases of interference and if you really need both I guess you can use both but personally I wouldn't. The high [ typically 5K + 5K = 10K ] resistance increases the voltage build up before the plug fires. This might have a slight advantage re firing under some conditions although offset by the lower firing current, however the higher voltage is more likely to lead to a CDI [ Capacitive Discharge Ignition ] failure. Generally you will get a better spark the lower the resistance. Sometimes you will see Rotax distributors listing the plug as a number rather than B8ES etc. This is mainly to just get you to buy from them, however there is another suttle difference. The little screw on cap. This can be brass, aluminium, fixed or with the right caps you just use the thread. My choice out of all this is the resistor plug with a non resistor cap with just the thread being used. My reasoning is using just the thread makes it more secure and you don't have issues with the aluminium caps or the caps coming lose. I also prefer the resistor in the plug rather than the cap because it can and does fail. If it's in the plug you are changing it when you change plugs and the extra cost of a resistor plug is minimal. To complicate it a bit though I'm now going to tell you that I use NGK BR8EIX plugs. These are Iridium and used in inverted motors. The reason being is they stand up to the harder conditions like fouling etc. As you can see the BR8E part is the same the IX is for "I" fine Iridium centre electrode. "X" Booster gap [ "S" standard centre electrode.] Now I haven't checked but I'm not sure if you can get this plug with the screw on cap so you can use just the thread. I am using fixed cap plugs at the moment but will change if I can shortly. These plugs are working really well for me with non resistor caps. You can get whatever caps you need from an auto parts store. Rotax recommended gap setting is 16 to 20 thou. I set mine to 20 thou. This raises another point if you use the Iridium plugs. The packet says not to adjust the gap and from memory it's set about 30 thou. Not a good idea for our application. However you can adjust the gap just be very carefull not to stress the very fine iridium centre electrode especially by pulling a feeler gauge across it and putting side pressure one it that's all. Rex. href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List">http://www.matron href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List">http://www.matron ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 06, 2006
Subject: Skis for Kitfox's
From: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>
I'd like to get peoples opinions on skis for a Model IV. I know Skystar offered them, but not (I don't think) in the wheel-penetration type that I am interested in. We don't get enough snow around here (Lower Michigan) to warrant full skis...that is, non-penetration skis. But if we get our normal amount, my strip will be snowed over, while most of the paved strips will be cleared of snow, and I wouldn't be able to go there....well, you get the idea. I'd like to hear some dialogue about what is involved in flying with skis, problems encountered, etc. I am thinking of building my own skis of the wheel-penetration type, or perhaps buying if a pair is available. I need a project, so building is preferred. Lynn Kitfox IV Speedster...Jabiru 2200 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Kitfox as a Lite Sport
From: "dcsfoto" <david(at)kelm.com>
Date: Dec 06, 2006
I am attending an FAA class to add Lite Sport certification to my DAR limitations. 1. I ask what is needed for me to operate my Kitfox 7 as a lite sport aircraft ( gross weight is the only factor for Kitfox) if I had the aircraft certificated as a Experimental-Amateur Built with a gross weight at the time of certification of 1550 lbs. The responce: since Experimental Amateur Built airplanes have the gross weight set by the builder all I needed to do was redo the weight and balance to set a max of 1320 lbs, a logbook entry to denote the change and press on. I could also placard the inst panel. Lowering gross weight is not a major mod. Gross weight is not conected to the limitations. DO NOT confuse experimental aircraft with FAA approved type certified aircraft. you cannot lower the gross weight of type certified aircraft this way. The FAA people that teach this class are spokes people for Washington DC headquarters. In 16 years as a DAR they have not steared me wrong yet. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=79714#79714 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 06, 2006
Subject: Re: Tail wheels
From: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>
As Rex said, I'm very happy with my decision (based on Rex's suggestion, for one) to go with the Home Builder's Special tailwheel. Jimmie Blackwell has also gone this route, I believe, and might back up this testimonial. Lynn On Thursday, December 7, 2006, at 02:43 PM, Rex Shaw wrote: > About the only thing I can take issue with is the Maule tailwheel. > The hard > rubber type is a 6" unit and I think it's about a pound lighter than > the > pneumatic type which is an 8" inch unit. Have you considered the Home > Builders Special? Very light and soft rubber for a better ride. > Might even > be lighter than the Maule 6 inch. > > Dave, > I use the 6" Home Builders Special wheel from Aircraft > Spruce and I would totally agree it's well worth considering. I > changed from that horible Maule SFSA solid wheel and the difference is > amazing. It runs very much quieter and gives much better control. It > cost less than $30 although you need to address the bearing and axle > size issues. The bearings that come in the wheel are total rubbish and > for a 5/8" axle. The Maule SFSA tail wheel assembly is 1/2" axle. Just > go to a bearing supply shop and get the right size sealed bearings > with a circlip to stop them sliding into the wheel too far. > I have no experience with the pneumatic wheel but believe it is also > a good answer to the shocking solid Maule wheel. However the > Homebuilders wheel is a lot cheaper way to go. Several including Lynn > and Michel on this list have gone this way and I'm sure they are also > very satisfied with the decision. > Rex. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "john perry" <eskflyer(at)lvcisp.com>
Subject: Re: Tail wheels
Date: Dec 06, 2006
I also have the homebuilders tail wheel and WOW it made a big wonderful difference . If you try it you will like it much better than the dinosaur model maul tail wheel. John Perry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lynn Matteson" <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 9:21 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Tail wheels > > As Rex said, I'm very happy with my decision (based on Rex's suggestion, > for one) to go with the Home Builder's Special tailwheel. Jimmie Blackwell > has also gone this route, I believe, and might back up this testimonial. > > Lynn > On Thursday, December 7, 2006, at 02:43 PM, Rex Shaw wrote: > >> About the only thing I can take issue with is the Maule tailwheel. The >> hard >> rubber type is a 6" unit and I think it's about a pound lighter than the >> pneumatic type which is an 8" inch unit. Have you considered the Home >> Builders Special? Very light and soft rubber for a better ride. Might >> even >> be lighter than the Maule 6 inch. >> >> Dave, >> I use the 6" Home Builders Special wheel from Aircraft Spruce and I would >> totally agree it's well worth considering. I changed from that horible >> Maule SFSA solid wheel and the difference is amazing. It runs very much >> quieter and gives much better control. It cost less than $30 although you >> need to address the bearing and axle size issues. The bearings that come >> in the wheel are total rubbish and for a 5/8" axle. The Maule SFSA tail >> wheel assembly is 1/2" axle. Just go to a bearing supply shop and get the >> right size sealed bearings with a circlip to stop them sliding into the >> wheel too far. >> I have no experience with the pneumatic wheel but believe it is also a >> good answer to the shocking solid Maule wheel. However the Homebuilders >> wheel is a lot cheaper way to go. Several including Lynn and Michel on >> this list have gone this way and I'm sure they are also very satisfied >> with the decision. >> Rex. >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 06, 2006
From: Guy Buchanan <bnn(at)nethere.com>
Subject: Re: Rotax 582 plugs
At 11:25 AM 12/7/2006, you wrote: >Generally use resistor either in the plug or the cap but not both to help >with ignition noise in the radio. How do I check whether I have resistor caps or not? Is it simply 5k ohms between the plug and wire contacts? I guess I therefore have to remove the caps from the wires. Is there anything special I should do to put them back together, such as conductive grease, etc.? Thanks, Guy Buchanan K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 06, 2006
From: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox as a Lite Sport
This would be great if the FAA sticks with it. Might save someone from selling their dear Fox in the future too. Maybe me? Certainly didn't build it to make a profit. ha ha Kurt S. S-5 --- dcsfoto wrote: > I am attending an FAA class to add Lite Sport > certification to my DAR limitations. > 1. I ask what is needed for me to operate my Kitfox > 7 as a lite sport aircraft ( gross weight is the > only factor for Kitfox) if I had the aircraft > certificated as a Experimental-Amateur Built with a > gross weight at the time of certification of 1550 > lbs. > The responce: since Experimental Amateur Built > airplanes have the gross weight set by the builder > all I needed to do was redo the weight and balance > to set a max of 1320 lbs, a logbook entry to denote > the change and press on. I could also placard the > inst panel. Lowering gross weight is not a major > mod. Gross weight is not conected to the > limitations. > DO NOT confuse experimental aircraft with FAA > approved type certified aircraft. you cannot lower > the gross weight of type certified aircraft this > way. > > The FAA people that teach this class are spokes > people for Washington DC > headquarters. In 16 years as a DAR they have not > steared me wrong yet. Have a burning question? Go to www.Answers.yahoo.com and get answers from real people who know. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 06, 2006
From: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Skis for Kitfox's
Michel, are you here? Lynn, Michel built some that he uses in Norway. Looks like they work well for him too. Oh, and he has a Jabber engine too. Kurt S. --- Lynn Matteson wrote: > I'd like to get peoples opinions on skis for a Model > IV. I know Skystar > offered them, but not (I don't think) in the > wheel-penetration type > that I am interested in. We don't get enough snow > around here (Lower > Michigan) to warrant full skis...that is, > non-penetration skis. But if > we get our normal amount, my strip will be snowed > over, while most of > the paved strips will be cleared of snow, and I > wouldn't be able to go > there....well, you get the idea. I'd like to hear > some dialogue about > what is involved in flying with skis, problems > encountered, etc. I am > thinking of building my own skis of the > wheel-penetration type, or > perhaps buying if a pair is available. I need a > project, so building is > preferred. > > Lynn > Kitfox IV Speedster...Jabiru 2200 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dave" <dave(at)cfisher.com>
Subject: Re: Rotax 582 plugs
Date: Dec 07, 2006
Guy, Yes, just unscrew the cap and check with ohm meter. Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "Guy Buchanan" <bnn(at)nethere.com> Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 12:15 AM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Rotax 582 plugs > > At 11:25 AM 12/7/2006, you wrote: >>Generally use resistor either in the plug or the cap but not both to help >>with ignition noise in the radio. > > How do I check whether I have resistor caps or not? Is it simply 5k ohms > between the plug and wire contacts? I guess I therefore have to remove the > caps from the wires. Is there anything special I should do to put them > back together, such as conductive grease, etc.? > > Thanks, > > > Guy Buchanan > K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RAY Gignac" <kitfoxpilot(at)msn.com>
Subject: Old Subject?
Date: Dec 07, 2006
I live in Maryland, and found out that most if not all the gas stations in my area are using gas with 10% ethanol added! will this type of gas be safe to use in the Kitfox tanks? Also, if I decided to use Avgas will I have to change my fuel lines back to Aviation fuel lines. Thanks for any input Ray _________________________________________________________________ WIN up to $10,000 in cash or prizes enter the Microsoft Office Live Sweepstakes http://clk..atdmt.com/MRT/go/aub0050001581mrt/direct/01/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jimmie Blackwell" <JimmieBlackwell(at)austin.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Tail wheels
Date: Dec 07, 2006
Yes indeed I have the Home Builders Special tailwheel. The ole maule solid rubber is a good wheel, but the home builders tail wheel gives a much smoother ride. I am very pleased with it. Be sure and get rid of the bearsings that come with it and get the better bearings. Jimmie ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lynn Matteson" <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 9:21 PM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Tail wheels > > As Rex said, I'm very happy with my decision (based on Rex's suggestion, > for one) to go with the Home Builder's Special tailwheel. Jimmie Blackwell > has also gone this route, I believe, and might back up this testimonial. > > Lynn > On Thursday, December 7, 2006, at 02:43 PM, Rex Shaw wrote: > >> About the only thing I can take issue with is the Maule tailwheel. The >> hard >> rubber type is a 6" unit and I think it's about a pound lighter than the >> pneumatic type which is an 8" inch unit. Have you considered the Home >> Builders Special? Very light and soft rubber for a better ride. Might >> even >> be lighter than the Maule 6 inch. >> >> Dave, >> I use the 6" Home Builders Special wheel from Aircraft Spruce and I would >> totally agree it's well worth considering. I changed from that horible >> Maule SFSA solid wheel and the difference is amazing. It runs very much >> quieter and gives much better control. It cost less than $30 although you >> need to address the bearing and axle size issues. The bearings that come >> in the wheel are total rubbish and for a 5/8" axle. The Maule SFSA tail >> wheel assembly is 1/2" axle. Just go to a bearing supply shop and get the >> right size sealed bearings with a circlip to stop them sliding into the >> wheel too far. >> I have no experience with the pneumatic wheel but believe it is also a >> good answer to the shocking solid Maule wheel. However the Homebuilders >> wheel is a lot cheaper way to go. Several including Lynn and Michel on >> this list have gone this way and I'm sure they are also very satisfied >> with the decision. >> Rex. >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Old Subject?
Date: Dec 07, 2006
From: wwillyard(at)aol.com
Ray, I switched back to 100LL about a year ago and have not noticed any problems with the automotive grade fuel lines so far. I will continue to monitor the lines but suspect that there will not be a problem as avgas does not have as many additives as auto fuel. Bill W. -----Original Message----- From: kitfoxpilot(at)msn.com Sent: Thu, 7 Dec 2006 7:22 AM Subject: Kitfox-List: Old Subject? I live in Maryland, and found out that most if not all the gas stations in m y area are using gas with 10% ethanol added! will this type of gas be safe t o use in the Kitfox tanks? Also, if I decided to use Avgas will I have to change my fuel lines back to Aviation fuel lines. Thanks for any input Ray _________________________________________________________________ WIN up to $10,000 in cash or prizes =93 enter the Microsoft Office Liv e Sweepstakes http://clk..atdmt.com/MRT/go/aub0050001581mrt/direct/01/ =========== =========== =========== ________________________________________________________________________ ee AOL Mail and more. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Smythe" <dosmythe(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Rotax 582 plugs
Date: Dec 07, 2006
Ok, I read it and it seems to contradict itself because I have to go back to my original question. Where can you purchase an NGK BR8ES spark plug that has a solid tip. I just went quickly to the NGK site and can't find a reference to a solid tip plug The author of the article said basically, you "MUST" use NGK BR8ES/B8ES plugs and you must NOT use screw on tips. Where did he buy them? The other article you sent allowed screw on tips but said to crimp/peen/glue the screw on caps. Don Smythe ----- Original Message ----- From: dav The recommended spark plugs are the NGK B8ES or BR8ES. The "R" denotes a resistance which helps suppress radio interference. The use of spark plugs with a solid tip, rather than the screwed-on tip, is mandatory. The latter can unscrew itself in flight and dislodge the spark plug connector cap, creating an ignition failure. Spark plug gap a.. Allowable range: 0.4-0.5mm / .016-.020" b.. Optimal: 0.45mm / .018" c.. The gap can be reduced to its allowable minimum to help starting in very cold conditions To be avoided: a.. Other spark plug models and other manufacturers' equivalents b.. Screwed-on tips c.. Unverified spark plug gaps d.. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fox5flyer" <fox5flyer@i-star.com>
Subject: Re: Skis for Kitfox's
Date: Dec 07, 2006
Lynn, you might consider just not using skis, but instead, put on bigger balloon tires. They'll ride over some pretty deep snow with no problem. It's a lot simpler. Now if you had the snow down there that we have up here it would be a different story. Deke ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lynn Matteson" <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 9:46 PM Subject: Kitfox-List: Skis for Kitfox's > > I'd like to get peoples opinions on skis for a Model IV. I know Skystar > offered them, but not (I don't think) in the wheel-penetration type > that I am interested in. We don't get enough snow around here (Lower > Michigan) to warrant full skis...that is, non-penetration skis. But if > we get our normal amount, my strip will be snowed over, while most of > the paved strips will be cleared of snow, and I wouldn't be able to go > there....well, you get the idea. I'd like to hear some dialogue about > what is involved in flying with skis, problems encountered, etc. I am > thinking of building my own skis of the wheel-penetration type, or > perhaps buying if a pair is available. I need a project, so building is > preferred. > > Lynn > Kitfox IV Speedster...Jabiru 2200 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "john perry" <eskflyer(at)lvcisp.com>
Subject: Re: Old Subject?
Date: Dec 07, 2006
Ray the ethanol will slowly dissolve the fuellines in the fox or anyother plane with rubber fuel lines . I use 100ll with my 582 and have had no problems at all . No do not change the lines to mil spec , Just use what u have with 100LL, John Perry ----- Original Message ----- From: "RAY Gignac" <kitfoxpilot(at)msn.com> Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 6:22 AM Subject: Kitfox-List: Old Subject? > > I live in Maryland, and found out that most if not all the gas stations in > my area are using gas with 10% ethanol added! will this type of gas be > safe to use in the Kitfox tanks? > > Also, if I decided to use Avgas will I have to change my fuel lines back > to Aviation fuel lines. > > Thanks for any input > > Ray > > _________________________________________________________________ > WIN up to $10,000 in cash or prizes - enter the Microsoft Office Live > Sweepstakes http://clk..atdmt.com/MRT/go/aub0050001581mrt/direct/01/ > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dave" <dave(at)cfisher.com>
Subject: Re: Rotax 582 plugs
Date: Dec 07, 2006
Don, I buy all plugs from Rotax distributor. I am not exactly sure why it is like this I would suggest Bob Robertson as I have used him with excellent service. Down south any Rotax shop will have them I am sure. I found this picon this site http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/images/profile/Ngk104-0.jpg Shows a solid tip. Now if you like i can go out to shop and take some pics for you later ? Let me know . I might have some screw tips that have damage tips worn as I have decribed. ? Dave Also the first one is from a another quality Rotax Shop in Canada and he says same >> To be avoided: a.. Other spark plug models and other manufacturers' equivalents b.. Screwed-on tips c.. Unverified spark plug gaps << ----- Original Message ----- From: Don Smythe To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 7:43 AM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Rotax 582 plugs Ok, I read it and it seems to contradict itself because I have to go back to my original question. Where can you purchase an NGK BR8ES spark plug that has a solid tip. I just went quickly to the NGK site and can't find a reference to a solid tip plug The author of the article said basically, you "MUST" use NGK BR8ES/B8ES plugs and you must NOT use screw on tips. Where did he buy them? The other article you sent allowed screw on tips but said to crimp/peen/glue the screw on caps. Don Smythe ----- Original Message ----- From: dav The recommended spark plugs are the NGK B8ES or BR8ES. The "R" denotes a resistance which helps suppress radio interference. The use of spark plugs with a solid tip, rather than the screwed-on tip, is mandatory. The latter can unscrew itself in flight and dislodge the spark plug connector cap, creating an ignition failure. Spark plug gap a.. Allowable range: 0.4-0.5mm / .016-.020" b.. Optimal: 0.45mm / .018" c.. The gap can be reduced to its allowable minimum to help starting in very cold conditions To be avoided: a.. Other spark plug models and other manufacturers' equivalents b.. Screwed-on tips c.. Unverified spark plug gaps d.. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dave" <dave(at)cfisher.com>
Subject: Re: Old Subject? AVGAS and 582
Date: Dec 07, 2006
John , I posted a link earlier on spark plus and it has stated there not to use avgas? http://www.rotaxservice.com/rotax_tips/rotax_feed2.htm Aviation Fuels It is possible but not recommended to use 100LL AVGAS, since the the lead content will increase deposits in the combustion chamber and on crankshaft ball bearings, inducing premature wear. Its higher octane rating does not bring any significant advantage to the engine's operation. Now from experience I will tell you that av gas will hold it's octane longer that auto gas, but I have used 3 month old auto gas without an issue. Temporary use of Avgas in 2 strokes will most likely casue any damages but I would caution on using it on a regular basis. Besides auto ga a bit cheaper :) Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "john perry" <eskflyer(at)lvcisp.com> Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 7:44 AM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Old Subject? > > Ray the ethanol will slowly dissolve the fuellines in the fox or anyother > plane with rubber fuel lines . I use 100ll with my 582 and have had no > problems at all . No do not change the lines to mil spec , Just use what u > have with 100LL, > > John Perry > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "RAY Gignac" <kitfoxpilot(at)msn.com> > To: > Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 6:22 AM > Subject: Kitfox-List: Old Subject? > > >> >> I live in Maryland, and found out that most if not all the gas stations >> in my area are using gas with 10% ethanol added! will this type of gas >> be safe to use in the Kitfox tanks? >> >> Also, if I decided to use Avgas will I have to change my fuel lines back >> to Aviation fuel lines. >> >> Thanks for any input >> >> Ray >> >> _________________________________________________________________ >> WIN up to $10,000 in cash or prizes - enter the Microsoft Office Live >> Sweepstakes http://clk..atdmt.com/MRT/go/aub0050001581mrt/direct/01/ >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dave" <dave(at)cfisher.com>
Subject: Skis for Kitfox's more info
Date: Dec 07, 2006
I sent Lynn a lengthy letter on Skis with a picture. I did not want pollute up this list with Ski info but if any wants a copy let me know. Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "Fox5flyer" <fox5flyer@i-star.com> Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 7:44 AM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Skis for Kitfox's > > Lynn, you might consider just not using skis, but instead, put on bigger > balloon tires. They'll ride over some pretty deep snow with no problem. > It's a lot simpler. Now if you had the snow down there that we have up > here > it would be a different story. > Deke > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Lynn Matteson" <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> > To: > Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 9:46 PM > Subject: Kitfox-List: Skis for Kitfox's > > >> >> I'd like to get peoples opinions on skis for a Model IV. I know Skystar >> offered them, but not (I don't think) in the wheel-penetration type >> that I am interested in. We don't get enough snow around here (Lower >> Michigan) to warrant full skis...that is, non-penetration skis. But if >> we get our normal amount, my strip will be snowed over, while most of >> the paved strips will be cleared of snow, and I wouldn't be able to go >> there....well, you get the idea. I'd like to hear some dialogue about >> what is involved in flying with skis, problems encountered, etc. I am >> thinking of building my own skis of the wheel-penetration type, or >> perhaps buying if a pair is available. I need a project, so building is >> preferred. >> >> Lynn >> Kitfox IV Speedster...Jabiru 2200 >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 07, 2006
Subject: Re: Skis for Kitfox's
From: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>
Thanks, Kurt...yes I'm in touch with Michel. I have his drawing, and some nice pictures of his installation. I also got some picture off Sportflight.com, which were helpful. Now I just have to decide whether or not to do it, and how much bother they are in use. I've been getting some input from local fliers, including my flight instructor, and some of the stories they tell is making me have second thoughts about "going skiing." Things like running across snowmobile tracks, hidden obstructions, etc. I know that if I stay on known grass strips, or paved runways, I *should* be ok, but I've seen these snowmobile guys tear up all over the place, leaving their ruts in their wake. I'm trying to get some input as to the feasibility of the whole matter....I'd hate to go two or three months without flying. Lynn On Thursday, December 7, 2006, at 01:09 AM, kurt schrader wrote: > > > Michel, are you here? > > Lynn, Michel built some that he uses in Norway. Looks > like they work well for him too. Oh, and he has a > Jabber engine too. > > Kurt S. > > --- Lynn Matteson wrote: > >> I'd like to get peoples opinions on skis for a Model >> IV. I know Skystar >> offered them, but not (I don't think) in the >> wheel-penetration type >> that I am interested in. We don't get enough snow >> around here (Lower >> Michigan) to warrant full skis...that is, >> non-penetration skis. But if >> we get our normal amount, my strip will be snowed >> over, while most of >> the paved strips will be cleared of snow, and I >> wouldn't be able to go >> there....well, you get the idea. I'd like to hear >> some dialogue about >> what is involved in flying with skis, problems >> encountered, etc. I am >> thinking of building my own skis of the >> wheel-penetration type, or >> perhaps buying if a pair is available. I need a >> project, so building is >> preferred. >> >> Lynn >> Kitfox IV Speedster...Jabiru 2200 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca>
Subject: Old Subject?
Date: Dec 07, 2006
There is a guy on the Yahoo-avid list who operated for years in California where 10% eth has been in use for years. He always pre mixed his fuel (R582) and operated for years with no problems. He now has a nice new Jab and is still using MOGAS but now he puts just a little oil in the tanks to cut the action of the Ethanol on the fillers of his composite tanks. It seems that the ethanol is more willing to bond with oil than resin. There are a few other problems with Eth some of which include vapour locks, increased moisture in the fuel which can cause carb ice and possible separation of the ethanol from the gas ( you could find yourself with pure Ethanol in your engine). The down side of mixing the oil in with the gas is it tends to lower the Octane rating a tad. I think it is probably safe enough to use as long as you take a few precautions. First I wouldn't leave gas in my wing tanks where they can absorb moisture form the air for days on end. If you don't expect to fly for a week or more de-fuel your tanks and put the gas into sealed containers. Always buy your fuel at the busiest gas station in town. Some of these stations will get fresh gas almost every night. For two stroke engines premix the gas, for four stroke engines mix about 300-500:1 ( half a cup to ten gal Approx) of two stroke oil in with the gas. If the engine gets really smoky you're using too much oil. For two stroke engines it is hard to recommend the use of 100LL only because the lead can plate out on the roller bearings on the crankshaft. (Not good) Both two stroke and four stroke engines will require more work on keeping the spark plugs clean. ( Just a pain in the keester) Two stroke engines may require decarbonising of the rings at shorter intervals. (Gotta be done any way, sooner or later) There is of course a method of removing Ethanol from your gas. The problem with that is you can't be sure what other additives may be removed with the Ethanol and It does require a bit of equipment ( a fair size drum and a siphon ) and putting your gas on the wagon may be something better done at home. When you remove the Eth from your gas expect about a 3-5 drop in Octane rating. Noel > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of > RAY Gignac > Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 8:53 AM > To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Kitfox-List: Old Subject? > > > > I live in Maryland, and found out that most if not all the > gas stations in > my area are using gas with 10% ethanol added! will this type > of gas be safe > to use in the Kitfox tanks? > > Also, if I decided to use Avgas will I have to change my fuel > lines back to > Aviation fuel lines. > > Thanks for any input > > Ray > > _________________________________________________________________ > WIN up to $10,000 in cash or prizes - enter the Microsoft Office Live > Sweepstakes http://clk..atdmt.com/MRT/go/aub0050001581mrt/direct/01/ > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "john perry" <eskflyer(at)lvcisp.com>
Subject: Re: Rotax 582 plugs
Date: Dec 07, 2006
Don the NGK stock # B8ES solid cap plugs is #3683 #BR8ES solid cap #3961 These are NGK'S stock number give it to any parts store and they will be able to order them then . John Perry ----- Original Message ----- From: Don Smythe To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 6:43 AM Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Rotax 582 plugs Ok, I read it and it seems to contradict itself because I have to go back to my original question. Where can you purchase an NGK BR8ES spark plug that has a solid tip. I just went quickly to the NGK site and can't find a reference to a solid tip plug The author of the article said basically, you "MUST" use NGK BR8ES/B8ES plugs and you must NOT use screw on tips. Where did he buy them? The other article you sent allowed screw on tips but said to crimp/peen/glue the screw on caps. Don Smythe ----- Original Message ----- From: dav The recommended spark plugs are the NGK B8ES or BR8ES. The "R" denotes a resistance which helps suppress radio interference. The use of spark plugs with a solid tip, rather than the screwed-on tip, is mandatory. The latter can unscrew itself in flight and dislodge the spark plug connector cap, creating an ignition failure. Spark plug gap a.. Allowable range: 0.4-0.5mm / .016-.020" b.. Optimal: 0.45mm / .018" c.. The gap can be reduced to its allowable minimum to help starting in very cold conditions To be avoided: a.. Other spark plug models and other manufacturers' equivalents b.. Screwed-on tips c.. Unverified spark plug gaps d.. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 07, 2006
Subject: Re: Skis for Kitfox's
From: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>
That's certainly good advice, Deke, but what if I decided to come up your way? I've actually got the 20x6.50x8's that came with my kit, so maybe that's an option. Do you suppose that size would work? That option would not fulfill my need for a project, though...hmmm. : ) Lynn On Thursday, December 7, 2006, at 07:44 AM, Fox5flyer wrote: > > Lynn, you might consider just not using skis, but instead, put on > bigger > balloon tires. They'll ride over some pretty deep snow with no > problem. > It's a lot simpler. Now if you had the snow down there that we have > up here > it would be a different story. > Deke > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Lynn Matteson" <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> > To: > Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 9:46 PM > Subject: Kitfox-List: Skis for Kitfox's > > >> >> I'd like to get peoples opinions on skis for a Model IV. I know >> Skystar >> offered them, but not (I don't think) in the wheel-penetration type >> that I am interested in. We don't get enough snow around here (Lower >> Michigan) to warrant full skis...that is, non-penetration skis. But if >> we get our normal amount, my strip will be snowed over, while most of >> the paved strips will be cleared of snow, and I wouldn't be able to go >> there....well, you get the idea. I'd like to hear some dialogue about >> what is involved in flying with skis, problems encountered, etc. I am >> thinking of building my own skis of the wheel-penetration type, or >> perhaps buying if a pair is available. I need a project, so building >> is >> preferred. >> >> Lynn >> Kitfox IV Speedster...Jabiru 2200 >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "john perry" <eskflyer(at)lvcisp.com>
Subject: Re: Old Subject? AVGAS and 582
Date: Dec 07, 2006
Dave I have run rotaxes for hundreads of hours and torn down numerous engines and have not found any problem with running 100LL . the teardowns were for a 150-200 hour decarb . Never for a failure . I have never had a problen with lead buildup on the plugs running NGK BR8ES or B8ES solid cap Stock number 3683-3961 plugs. I do keep my engine jetted for the conditions on a annual basis . My engines run from 5800 -6300 rpm most of the time in flight . Yes avgas is more expensive but much easier to get at FBO's so that is what


December 01, 2006 - December 07, 2006

Kitfox-Archive.digest.vol-ef