Kitfox-Archive.digest.vol-eg
December 07, 2006 - December 21, 2006
i run. In the hot climates of the south here regular gasoline does not last
anytime at all with out stinking bad and starting to varnish up. Stale gas
and varnish do not go good in a airplane or any engine .
Each to there own on what they want to run but I am running avgs .
Experience has shown no detrimental harm at all ever on any engine I have
run on avgas.
Fly safe fly low fly slow
John Perry
----- Original Message -----
| From: | "dave" <dave(at)cfisher.com> |
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 7:44 AM
| Subject: | Re: Old Subject? AVGAS and 582 |
>
> John , I posted a link earlier on spark plus and it has stated there
> not to use avgas?
> http://www.rotaxservice.com/rotax_tips/rotax_feed2.htm
> Aviation Fuels
>
> It is possible but not recommended to use 100LL AVGAS, since the the lead
> content will increase deposits in the combustion chamber and on crankshaft
> ball bearings, inducing premature wear. Its higher octane rating does not
> bring any significant advantage to the engine's operation.
>
>
> Now from experience I will tell you that av gas will hold it's octane
> longer that auto gas, but I have used 3 month old auto gas without an
> issue. Temporary use of Avgas in 2 strokes will most likely casue any
> damages but I would caution on using it on a regular basis. Besides auto
> ga a bit cheaper :)
>
>
> Dave
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "john perry" <eskflyer(at)lvcisp.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 7:44 AM
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Old Subject?
>
>
>>
>> Ray the ethanol will slowly dissolve the fuellines in the fox or anyother
>> plane with rubber fuel lines . I use 100ll with my 582 and have had no
>> problems at all . No do not change the lines to mil spec , Just use what
>> u have with 100LL,
>>
>> John Perry
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "RAY Gignac" <kitfoxpilot(at)msn.com>
>> To:
>> Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 6:22 AM
>> Subject: Kitfox-List: Old Subject?
>>
>>
>>>
>>> I live in Maryland, and found out that most if not all the gas stations
>>> in my area are using gas with 10% ethanol added! will this type of gas
>>> be safe to use in the Kitfox tanks?
>>>
>>> Also, if I decided to use Avgas will I have to change my fuel lines back
>>> to Aviation fuel lines.
>>>
>>> Thanks for any input
>>>
>>> Ray
>>>
>>> _________________________________________________________________
>>> WIN up to $10,000 in cash or prizes - enter the Microsoft Office Live
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>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tinne maha" <tinnemaha(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Another 5 Coming Alive |
After more years & dollars than I care to mention, my Series 5 TD with Lyc
O-235 is scheduled for an airworthiness inspection this weekend. The D.A.R.
said I need to have all the instruments marked to pass. I'm finding most
of the info for the engine instruments, but am sorta hurting for airspeed
markings.
Could anyone out there with the same set up tell me what you are using?
Or, if the information is right in front of me in the manual, could you tell
me where I can find it?
Any help appreciated.
Thanks,
Grant Krueger
San Luis Obispo, CA
_________________________________________________________________
Visit MSN Holiday Challenge for your chance to win up to $50,000 in Holiday
cash from MSN today!
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "PEDRO PEREZ" <5324(at)PRTC.NET> |
| Subject: | TRY FIT GROVE L.G. FROM MODEL V TO IV |
HELLO: LIST
I HAVE A GROVE L.G. FROM A MODEL V ///
SOMEBODY SOLD ME AND SAID THAT IT COULD FIT TO MY CLASSIC IV ....
I CAN NOT FIT WITH PARTS INCLUDED ///
DO ANY HAVE IDEA TO FIT IT?????
I HAVE ORIGINAL 8" WHEELS/////
DO THAT INSTALLED GROVE L.G. IN CLASSIC IV//
I DO NOT WANT TO LOSS THIS L.G. AND $$$///
REGARDS..
PEDRO PEREZ
VERNERFOX
>>From: "PEDRO PEREZ" <5324(at)PRTC.NET>
>>Reply-To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
>>To:
_________________________________________________________________
> Stay up-to-date with your friends through the Windows Live Spaces friends
> list.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Daniels <aldaniels(at)fmtcblue.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another 5 Coming Alive |
140 vne red line top of yellow,120 vno top of green start of yellow, top
of the white flap range 80 and the bottom will be about 44 with that
engine, and the bottom of the green will be about 49 but you will have
to adjust when you do your actual flight testing. It will depend on your
static system more than anything. I think maneuver speed is 109 which I
mark on the airspeed indicator. (all in MPH) I think these are the right
numbers. Jump in if I am wrong.
Tinne maha wrote:
>
> After more years & dollars than I care to mention, my Series 5 TD with
> Lyc O-235 is scheduled for an airworthiness inspection this weekend.
> The D.A.R. said I need to have all the instruments marked to pass.
> I'm finding most of the info for the engine instruments, but am sorta
> hurting for airspeed markings.
>
> Could anyone out there with the same set up tell me what you are using?
>
> Or, if the information is right in front of me in the manual, could
> you tell me where I can find it?
>
> Any help appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Grant Krueger
> San Luis Obispo, CA
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Visit MSN Holiday Challenge for your chance to win up to $50,000 in
> Holiday cash from MSN today!
> http://www.msnholidaychallenge.com/index.aspx?ocid=tagline&locale=en-us
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Skis for Kitfox's |
Lynn, I ran my model 2 for a couple winters on the same tires (20s) that you
have and for up to six inches it was no problem. Heavy wet stuff may be a
bit different. If you decide to come up here and the snow is deep I'll plow
it for you! Actually, the skis are nice. The last two years I had my 2 I
ran it on skis that I made for it and I could go just about anywhere with
them, including paved runways. Up here, most airstrips have a place for
landing on skis, usually paralleling the active so there are lots of options
on skis, including the frozen lakes. Another thing about skis is that the
airplane tends to track straighter with less rudder input, and on a 2,
that's a big deal. Skis do make it a pain moving in and out of the hangar,
but there are ways around that. If just plan on hanging around "down south"
the fat tires will probably work for the most part. A good rule is to
always drag the landing area first to look for anything that may cause your
day to go bad.
Unfortunately, I let the skis go with the airplane when I sold it and now
the airplane is down in Mexico somewhere. I don't know what happened to the
skis. Should have kept 'em. They were one of my best productions.
Deke
Mikado Michigan
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Skis for Kitfox's
>
> That's certainly good advice, Deke, but what if I decided to come up
> your way? I've actually got the 20x6.50x8's that came with my kit, so
> maybe that's an option. Do you suppose that size would work?
>
> That option would not fulfill my need for a project, though...hmmm. : )
>
> Lynn
>
> On Thursday, December 7, 2006, at 07:44 AM, Fox5flyer wrote:
>
> >
> > Lynn, you might consider just not using skis, but instead, put on
> > bigger
> > balloon tires. They'll ride over some pretty deep snow with no
> > problem.
> > It's a lot simpler. Now if you had the snow down there that we have
> > up here
> > it would be a different story.
> > Deke
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jdmcbean" <jdmcbean(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Another 5 Coming Alive |
GRANT,
Congrats and good luck !! I'm sure it will be a great day. The following
is from the current manual.
CAUTION
The airspeed indicator will need to be properly marked for the operating
range for the Kitfox Super Sport. These marks allow the pilot to quickly
verify certain operating parameters in flight. Four colored bands are used
which are described below.
RED LINE - 140 mph. The red mark is called the Never Exceed Speed (VNE).
This airspeed should never be exceeded.
YELLOW ARC - 120 to 139 mph. The yellow band is an airspeed range that
should not be used unless in smooth air and then only with caution.
GREEN ARC - ?? to 119 mph. The green band is the normal airspeed operating
range for the aircraft. The bottom of the green arc represents the airspeed
that the aircraft will stall at under the following conditions: level
flight, idle throttle, no flaps, and at gross weight. This speed must be
determined during flight testing. The top of the green arc is the maximum
structural cruising speed.
WHITE ARC - ?? to 80 mph. The white band is the flap operating airspeed
range for the aircraft. The bottom of the white arc represents the airspeed
that the aircraft will stall at under the following conditions: level
flight, idle throttle, full flaps, and at gross weight. This speed must also
be determined during flight testing. The top of the white arc is the maximum
speed at which the flaps may be used.
Fly Safe !!
John & Debra McBean
208.337.5111
www.kitfoxaircraft.com
"It's not how Fast... It's how Fun!"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tinne maha
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 7:37 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Another 5 Coming Alive
After more years & dollars than I care to mention, my Series 5 TD with Lyc
O-235 is scheduled for an airworthiness inspection this weekend. The D.A.R.
said I need to have all the instruments marked to pass. I'm finding most
of the info for the engine instruments, but am sorta hurting for airspeed
markings.
Could anyone out there with the same set up tell me what you are using?
Or, if the information is right in front of me in the manual, could you tell
me where I can find it?
Any help appreciated.
Thanks,
Grant Krueger
San Luis Obispo, CA
_________________________________________________________________
Visit MSN Holiday Challenge for your chance to win up to $50,000 in Holiday
cash from MSN today!
http://www.msnholidaychallenge.com/index.aspx?ocid=tagline&locale=en-us
--
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Skis for Kitfox's more info |
| From: | "Tom Jones" <nahsikhs(at)elltel.net> |
Dave, I would like to get a copy of your kitfox Ski information please.
Tom Jones,
Ellensburg, WA
nahsikhs(at)elltel.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=79861#79861
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Guy Buchanan <bnn(at)nethere.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another 5 Coming Alive |
At 06:36 AM 12/7/2006, you wrote:
>Could anyone out there with the same set up tell me what you are using?
>
>Or, if the information is right in front of me in the manual, could you
tell
>me where I can find it?
FAR Part 23 offers some indication of cockpit markings beyond the
"EXPERIMENTAL" and "not certified" stickers required. However, I can't say
that FAR part 23 applies to an experimental aircraft so I can't say these
markings are mandatory. I think they're a good idea and didn't find any of
them onerous. Since you're almost done, (congratulations, by the way,) my
present to you is pulling the applicable sections and posting them below.
GOOD LUCK!
Markings And Placards
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=A7 23.1541 General.
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(a) The airplane must contain=AD
(1) The markings and placards specified in =A7=A723.1545 through 23.1567;
and
(2) Any additional information, instrument markings, and placards required
for the safe operation if it has unusual design, operating, or handling
characteristics.
(b) Each marking and placard prescribed in paragraph (a) of this section=AD
(1) Must be displayed in a conspicuous place; and
(2) May not be easily erased, disfigured, or obscured.
(c) For airplanes which are to be certificated in more than one category=AD
(1) The applicant must select one category upon which the placards and
markings are to be based; and
(2) The placards and marking information for all categories in which the
airplane is to be certificated must be furnished in the Airplane Flight
Manual.
[Doc. No. 4080, 29 FR 17955, Dec. 18, 1964; 30 FR 258, Jan. 9, 1965, as
amended by Amdt. 23'21, 43 FR 2319, Jan. 16, 1978]
=A7 23.1543 Instrument markings: General.
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For each instrument=AD
(a) When markings are on the cover glass of the instrument, there must be
means to maintain the correct alignment of the glass cover with the face of
the dial; and
(b) Each arc and line must be wide enough and located to be clearly visible
to the pilot.
(c) All related instruments must be calibrated in compatible units.
[Doc. No. 4080, 29 FR 17955, Dec. 18, 1964; 30 FR 258, Jan. 9, 1965, as
amended by Amdt. 23'50, 61 FR 5192, Feb. 9, 1996]
=A7 23.1545 Airspeed indicator.
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(a) Each airspeed indicator must be marked as specified in paragraph (b) of
this section, with the marks located at the corresponding indicated
airspeeds.
(b) The following markings must be made:
(1) For the never-exceed speed VNE, a radial red line.
(2) For the caution range, a yellow arc extending from the red line
specified in paragraph (b)(1) of this section to the upper limit of the
green arc specified in paragraph (b)(3) of this section.
(3) For the normal operating range, a green arc with the lower limit at VS1
with maximum weight and with landing gear and wing flaps retracted, and the
upper limit at the maximum structural cruising speed VNO established under
=A723.1505(b).
(4) For the flap operating range, a white arc with the lower limit at VS0
at the maximum weight, and the upper limit at the flaps-extended speed VFE
established under =A723.1511.
(5) For reciprocating multiengine-powered airplanes of 6,000 pounds or less
maximum weight, for the speed at which compliance has been shown with
=A723.69(b) relating to rate of climb at maximum weight and at sea level, a
blue radial line.
(6) For reciprocating multiengine-powered airplanes of 6,000 pounds or less
maximum weight, for the maximum value of minimum control speed, VMC,
(one-engine-inoperative) determined under =A723.149(b), a red radial line.
(c) If VNE or VNO vary with altitude, there must be means to indicate to
the pilot the appropriate limitations throughout the operating altitude
range.
(d) Paragraphs (b)(1) through (b)(3) and paragraph (c) of this section do
not apply to aircraft for which a maximum operating speed VMO/MMO is
established under =A723.1505(c). For those aircraft there must either be a
maximum allowable airspeed indication showing the variation of VMO/MMO with
altitude or compressibility limitations (as appropriate), or a radial red
line marking for VMO/MMO must be made at lowest value of VMO/MMO
established for any altitude up to the maximum operating altitude for the
airplane.
[Doc. No. 4080, 29 FR 17955, Dec. 18, 1964, as amended by Amdt. 23'3, 30
FR
14240, Nov. 13, 1965; Amdt. 23'7, 34 FR 13097, Aug. 13, 1969; Amdt. 23'2
3,
43 FR 50593, Oct. 30, 1978; Amdt. 23'50, 61 FR 5193, Feb. 9, 1996]
=A7 23.1547 Magnetic direction indicator.
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(a) A placard meeting the requirements of this section must be installed on
or near the magnetic direction indicator.
(b) The placard must show the calibration of the instrument in level flight
with the engines operating.
(c) The placard must state whether the calibration was made with radio
receivers on or off.
(d) Each calibration reading must be in terms of magnetic headings in not
more than 30 degree increments.
(e) If a magnetic nonstabilized direction indicator can have a deviation of
more than 10 degrees caused by the operation of electrical equipment, the
placard must state which electrical loads, or combination of loads, would
cause a deviation of more than 10 degrees when turned on.
[Doc. No. 4080, 29 FR 17955, Dec. 18, 1964; 30 FR 258, Jan. 9, 1965, as
amended by Amdt. 23'20, 42 FR 36969, July 18, 1977]
=A7 23.1549 Powerplant and auxiliary power unit instruments.
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For each required powerplant and auxiliary power unit instrument, as
appropriate to the type of instruments=AD
(a) Each maximum and, if applicable, minimum safe operating limit must be
marked with a red radial or a red line;
(b) Each normal operating range must be marked with a green arc or green
line, not extending beyond the maximum and minimum safe limits;
(c) Each takeoff and precautionary range must be marked with a yellow arc
or a yellow line; and
(d) Each engine, auxiliary power unit, or propeller range that is
restricted because of excessive vibration stresses must be marked with red
arcs or red lines.
[Amdt. 23'12, 41 FR 55466, Dec. 20, 1976, as amended by Amdt. 23'28, 47
FR
13315, Mar. 29, 1982; Amdt. 23'45, 58 FR 42166, Aug. 6, 1993]
=A7 23.1551 Oil quantity indicator.
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Each oil quantity indicator must be marked in sufficient increments to
indicate readily and accurately the quantity of oil.
=A7 23.1553 Fuel quantity indicator.
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A red radial line must be marked on each indicator at the calibrated zero
reading, as specified in =A723.1337(b)(1).
[Doc. No. 27807, 61 FR 5193, Feb. 9, 1996]
=A7 23.1555 Control markings.
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(a) Each cockpit control, other than primary flight controls and simple
push button type starter switches, must be plainly marked as to its
function and method of operation.
(b) Each secondary control must be suitably marked.
(c) For powerplant fuel controls=AD
(1) Each fuel tank selector control must be marked to indicate the position
corresponding to each tank and to each existing cross feed position;
(2) If safe operation requires the use of any tanks in a specific sequence,
that sequence must be marked on or near the selector for those tanks;
(3) The conditions under which the full amount of usable fuel in any
restricted usage fuel tank can safely be used must be stated on a placard
adjacent to the selector valve for that tank; and
(4) Each valve control for any engine of a multiengine airplane must be
marked to indicate the position corresponding to each engine controlled.
(d) Usable fuel capacity must be marked as follows:
(1) For fuel systems having no selector controls, the usable fuel capacity
of the system must be indicated at the fuel quantity indicator.
(2) For fuel systems having selector controls, the usable fuel capacity
available at each selector control position must be indicated near the
selector control.
(e) For accessory, auxiliary, and emergency controls=AD
(1) If retractable landing gear is used, the indicator required by =A723.729
must be marked so that the pilot can, at any time, ascertain that the
wheels are secured in the extreme positions; and
(2) Each emergency control must be red and must be marked as to method of
operation. No control other than an emergency control, or a control that
serves an emergency function in addition to its other functions, shall be
this color.
[Doc. No. 4080, 29 FR 17955, Dec. 18, 1964; 30 FR 258, Jan. 9, 1965, as
amended by Amdt. 23'21, 43 FR 2319, Jan. 16, 1978; Amdt. 23'50, 61 FR
5193,
Feb. 9, 1996]
=A7 23.1557 Miscellaneous markings and placards.
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(a) Baggage and cargo compartments, and ballast location. Each baggage and
cargo compartment, and each ballast location, must have a placard stating
any limitations on contents, including weight, that are necessary under the
loading requirements.
(b) Seats. If the maximum allowable weight to be carried in a seat is less
than 170 pounds, a placard stating the lesser weight must be permanently
attached to the seat structure.
(c) Fuel, oil, and coolant filler openings. The following apply:
(1) Fuel filter openings must be marked at or near the filler cover with=AD
(i) For reciprocating engine-powered airplanes=AD
(A) The word =93Avgas=94; and
(B) The minimum fuel grade.
(ii) For turbine engine-powered airplanes=AD
(A) The words =93Jet Fuel=94; and
(B) The permissible fuel designations, or references to the Airplane Flight
Manual (AFM) for permissible fuel designations.
(iii) For pressure fueling systems, the maximum permissible fueling supply
pressure and the maximum permissible defueling pressure.
(2) Oil filler openings must be marked at or near the filler cover with the
word =93Oil=94 and the permissible oil designations, or references to the
Airplane Flight Manual (AFM) for permissible oil designations.
(3) Coolant filler openings must be marked at or near the filler cover with
the word =93Coolant=94.
(d) Emergency exit placards. Each placard and operating control for each
emergency exit must be red. A placard must be near each emergency exit
control and must clearly indicate the location of that exit and its method
of operation.
(e) The system voltage of each direct current installation must be clearly
marked adjacent to its exernal power connection.
[Doc. No. 4080, 29 FR 17955, Dec. 18, 1964; as amended by Amdt. 23'21, 42
FR 15042, Mar. 17, 1977; Amdt. 23'23, 43 FR 50594, Oct. 30, 1978; Amdt.
23'45, 58 FR 42166, Aug. 6, 1993]
=A7 23.1559 Operating limitations placard.
<http://ecfr.gpoaccess.gov/cgi/t/text/text-idx?c=ecfr&sid=2bb77e41f294c2
871468c1182b47396b&rgn=div5&view=text&node=14:1.0.1.3.10&idno=14#Par
tTop>
[]
<http://ecfr.gpoaccess.gov/cgi/t/text/text-idx?c=ecfr&sid=2bb77e41f294c2
871468c1182b47396b&rgn=div5&view=text&node=14:1.0.1.3.10&idno=14#Par
tTop>
top
(a) There must be a placard in clear view of the pilot stating=AD
(1) That the airplane must be operated in accordance with the Airplane
Flight Manual; and
(2) The certification category of the airplane to which the placards apply.
(b) For airplanes certificated in more than one category, there must be a
placard in clear view of the pilot stating that other limitations are
contained in the Airplane Flight Manual.
(c) There must be a placard in clear view of the pilot that specifies the
kind of operations to which the operation of the airplane is limited or
from which it is prohibited under =A723.1525.
[Doc. No. 27807, 61 FR 5193, Feb. 9, 1996]
=A7 23.1561 Safety equipment.
<http://ecfr.gpoaccess.gov/cgi/t/text/text-idx?c=ecfr&sid=2bb77e41f294c2
871468c1182b47396b&rgn=div5&view=text&node=14:1.0.1.3.10&idno=14#Par
tTop>
[]
<http://ecfr.gpoaccess.gov/cgi/t/text/text-idx?c=ecfr&sid=2bb77e41f294c2
871468c1182b47396b&rgn=div5&view=text&node=14:1.0.1.3.10&idno=14#Par
tTop>
top
(a) Safety equipment must be plainly marked as to method of operation.
(b) Stowage provisions for required safety equipment must be marked for the
benefit of occupants.
=A7 23.1563 Airspeed placards.
<http://ecfr.gpoaccess.gov/cgi/t/text/text-idx?c=ecfr&sid=2bb77e41f294c2
871468c1182b47396b&rgn=div5&view=text&node=14:1.0.1.3.10&idno=14#Par
tTop>
[]
<http://ecfr.gpoaccess.gov/cgi/t/text/text-idx?c=ecfr&sid=2bb77e41f294c2
871468c1182b47396b&rgn=div5&view=text&node=14:1.0.1.3.10&idno=14#Par
tTop>
top
There must be an airspeed placard in clear view of the pilot and as close
as practicable to the airspeed indicator. This placard must list=AD
(a) The operating maneuvering speed, VO; and
(b) The maximum landing gear operating speed VLO.
(c) For reciprocating multiengine-powered airplanes of more than 6,000
pounds maximum weight, and turbine engine-powered airplanes, the maximum
value of the minimum control speed, VMC (one-engine-inoperative) determined
under =A723.149(b).
[Amdt. 23'7, 34 FR 13097, Aug. 13, 1969, as amended by Amdt. 23'45, 58
FR
42166, Aug. 6, 1993; Amdt. 23'50, 61 FR 5193, Feb. 9, 1996]
=A7 23.1567 Flight maneuver placard.
<http://ecfr.gpoaccess.gov/cgi/t/text/text-idx?c=ecfr&sid=2bb77e41f294c2
871468c1182b47396b&rgn=div5&view=text&node=14:1.0.1.3.10&idno=14#Par
tTop>
[]
<http://ecfr.gpoaccess.gov/cgi/t/text/text-idx?c=ecfr&sid=2bb77e41f294c2
871468c1182b47396b&rgn=div5&view=text&node=14:1.0.1.3.10&idno=14#Par
tTop>
top
(a) For normal category airplanes, there must be a placard in front of and
in clear view of the pilot stating: =93No acrobatic maneuvers, including
spins, approved.=94
(b) For utility category airplanes, there must be=AD
(1) A placard in clear view of the pilot stating: =93Acrobatic maneuvers are
limited to the following ___________;=94 (list approved maneuvers and the
recommended entry speed for each); and
(2) For those airplanes that do not meet the spin requirements for
acrobatic category airplanes, an additional placard in clear view of the
pilot stating: =93Spins Prohibited.=94
(c) For acrobatic category airplanes, there must be a placard in clear view
of the pilot listing the approved acrobatic maneuvers and the recommended
entry airspeed for each. If inverted flight maneuvers are not approved, the
placard must bear a notation to this effect.
(d) For acrobatic category airplanes and utility category airplanes
approved for spinning, there must be a placard in clear view of the pilot=AD
(1) Listing the control actions for recovery from spinning maneuvers; and
(2) Stating that recovery must be initiated when spiral characteristics
appear, or after not more than six turns or not more than any greater
number of turns for which the airplane has been certificated.
[Doc. No. 4080, 29 FR 17955, Dec. 18, 1964; 30 FR 258, Jan. 9, 1965, as
amended by Amdt. 23'13, 37 FR 20023, Sept. 23, 1972; Amdt. 23'21, 43 FR
2319, Jan. 16, 1978; Amdt. 23'50, 61 FR 5193, Feb. 9, 1996]
Guy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: TRY FIT GROVE L.G. FROM MODEL V TO IV |
If I'm not mistaken Pedro, the S5 Grove gear is larger and heavier to handle
the gross weight of the S5+. I think it attaches differently also. A call
to Robbie Grove will give you the answer you need. Sorry, I don't have his
phone number, but someone here on the list should have it.
Good luck,
Deke
----- Original Message -----
From: "PEDRO PEREZ" <5324(at)PRTC.NET>
Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 10:18 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: TRY FIT GROVE L.G. FROM MODEL V TO IV
>
> HELLO: LIST
>
> I HAVE A GROVE L.G. FROM A MODEL V ///
> SOMEBODY SOLD ME AND SAID THAT IT COULD FIT TO MY CLASSIC IV ....
> I CAN NOT FIT WITH PARTS INCLUDED ///
>
> DO ANY HAVE IDEA TO FIT IT?????
>
> I HAVE ORIGINAL 8" WHEELS/////
>
> DO THAT INSTALLED GROVE L.G. IN CLASSIC IV//
>
> I DO NOT WANT TO LOSS THIS L.G. AND $$$///
>
> REGARDS..
>
> PEDRO PEREZ
> VERNERFOX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RAY Gignac" <kitfoxpilot(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Old Subject? |
Thanks for the reply, think I'm going to switch to 100ll
Ray
>From: wwillyard(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
>To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Old Subject?
>Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2006 07:39:29 -0500
>
>Ray,
>I switched back to 100LL about a year ago and have not noticed any problems
>with the automotive grade fuel lines so far. I will continue to monitor the
>lines but suspect that there will not be a problem as avgas does not have
>as many additives as auto fuel.
>
>Bill W.
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: kitfoxpilot(at)msn.com
>To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
>Sent: Thu, 7 Dec 2006 7:22 AM
>Subject: Kitfox-List: Old Subject?
>
>
>I live in Maryland, and found out that most if not all the gas stations in
>my area are using gas with 10% ethanol added! will this type of gas be safe
>to use in the Kitfox tanks?
>
>Also, if I decided to use Avgas will I have to change my fuel lines back to
>Aviation fuel lines.
>
>Thanks for any input
>
>Ray
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>WIN up to $10,000 in cash or prizes enter the Microsoft Office Live
>Sweepstakes http://clk..atdmt.com/MRT/go/aub0050001581mrt/direct/01/
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>________________________________________________________________________
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_________________________________________________________________
Visit MSN Holiday Challenge for your chance to win up to $50,000 in Holiday
cash from MSN today!
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Old Subject? |
| From: | "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike(at)yahoo.com> |
IF you use 100ll than you should put in tcp plus, make sure it's the plus, it has
a carbon cleaning added. I think John sells it.
--------
kitfoxmike
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=79886#79886
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michel Verheughe <michel(at)online.no> |
| Subject: | Re: Skis for Kitfox's |
On Dec 7, 2006, at 2:50 PM, Lynn Matteson wrote:
> some of the stories they tell is making me have second thoughts about
> "going skiing."
I still haven't landed on skis on unprepared terrain, Lynn. That is, if
you don't count the snow covered shoulders of my homeplace asphalt
runway, just for practice. Lots of stuff can hide under the snow. But
we have winter fly-ins where we land on frozen lakes there where there
is already people on the ground and we know it's safe.
Deke has a point that big balloon tyres will get you on much snow
covered surface. But snow, if a bit loose, can be tricky as it's an
enormous drag on the tyres/skis. That makes the plane feel like tipping
over when landing. The nice thing with the skis, then, is that it has
retaining wires that allow the plane to tip not more than 5 degrees
nose down, from level.
Cheers,
Michel
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Skis for Kitfox's |
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
I may try the big tires first, before committing to the skis....thanks,
Michel.
Lynn
On Thursday, December 7, 2006, at 01:08 PM, Michel Verheughe wrote:
>
> On Dec 7, 2006, at 2:50 PM, Lynn Matteson wrote:
>> some of the stories they tell is making me have second thoughts about
>> "going skiing."
>
> I still haven't landed on skis on unprepared terrain, Lynn. That is,
> if you don't count the snow covered shoulders of my homeplace asphalt
> runway, just for practice. Lots of stuff can hide under the snow. But
> we have winter fly-ins where we land on frozen lakes there where there
> is already people on the ground and we know it's safe.
>
> Deke has a point that big balloon tyres will get you on much snow
> covered surface. But snow, if a bit loose, can be tricky as it's an
> enormous drag on the tyres/skis. That makes the plane feel like
> tipping over when landing. The nice thing with the skis, then, is that
> it has retaining wires that allow the plane to tip not more than 5
> degrees nose down, from level.
>
> Cheers,
> Michel
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Smythe" <dosmythe(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 582 plugs |
Here are plugs from AC Spruce
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/ngkplugs.php
Here are plugs from CPS
http://www.rotaxparts.net/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=985
Neither of these two Companies address the solid tip or the pre-gapping
of .018". Are both of these the standard Auto plug and not the ones we
need for aviation?
Don Smythe
----- Original Message -----
From: john perry
To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 9:25 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Rotax 582 plugs
Don the NGK stock # B8ES solid cap plugs is #3683
#BR8ES solid cap #3961
These are NGK'S stock number give it to any parts store and they will
be able to order them then .
John Perry
----- Original Message -----
From: Don Smythe
To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 6:43 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Rotax 582 plugs
Ok, I read it and it seems to contradict itself because I have
to go back to my original question. Where can you purchase an NGK BR8ES
spark plug that has a solid tip. I just went quickly to the NGK site
and can't find a reference to a solid tip plug The author of the
article said basically, you "MUST" use NGK BR8ES/B8ES plugs and you must
NOT use screw on tips. Where did he buy them?
The other article you sent allowed screw on tips but said to
crimp/peen/glue the screw on caps.
Don Smythe
----- Original Message -----
From: dav
The recommended spark plugs are the NGK B8ES or BR8ES. The "R"
denotes a resistance which helps suppress radio interference. The use of
spark plugs with a solid tip, rather than the screwed-on tip, is
mandatory. The latter can unscrew itself in flight and dislodge the
spark plug connector cap, creating an ignition failure.
Spark plug gap
a.. Allowable range: 0.4-0.5mm / .016-.020"
b.. Optimal: 0.45mm / .018"
c.. The gap can be reduced to its allowable minimum to help
starting in very cold conditions
To be avoided:
a.. Other spark plug models and other manufacturers' equivalents
b.. Screwed-on tips
c.. Unverified spark plug gaps
d..
------------------------------------------------------------------------
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List">http://www.matron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dwight purdy <dpurdy(at)comteck.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 582 plugs |
Don
I had them looked up at the local auto store. I will look and get the
number off the box and get back with you. If your order your plugs from CPS
, they will be the solid tips.
Dwight
> Ok, I read it and it seems to contradict itself because I have to go
> back to my original question. Where can you purchase an NGK BR8ES spark
> plug that has a solid tip. I just went quickly to the NGK site and can't
> find a reference to a solid tip plug The author of the article said
> basically, you "MUST" use NGK BR8ES/B8ES plugs and you must NOT use screw
> on tips. Where did he buy them?
> The other article you sent allowed screw on tips but said to
> crimp/peen/glue the screw on caps.
>
>Don Smythe
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <mailto:dave(at)cfisher.com>dav
>
>The recommended spark plugs are the NGK B8ES or BR8ES. The "R" denotes a
>resistance which helps suppress radio interference. The use of spark plugs
>with a solid tip, rather than the screwed-on tip, is mandatory. The latter
>can unscrew itself in flight and dislodge the spark plug connector cap,
>creating an ignition failure.
>
>Spark plug gap
> * Allowable range: 0.4-0.5mm / .016-.020"
> * Optimal: 0.45mm / .018"
> * The gap can be reduced to its allowable minimum to help starting in
> very cold conditions
>
>To be avoided:
> * Other spark plug models and other manufacturers' equivalents
> * Screwed-on tips
> * Unverified spark plug gaps
> ----------
>
>
:31 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rex Shaw" <rexjan(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Checking Resistor Caps |
How do I check whether I have resistor caps or not? Is it simply 5k ohms
between the plug and wire contacts? I guess I therefore have to remove
the
caps from the wires. Is there anything special I should do to put them
back
together, such as conductive grease, etc.?
Hi ! Guy,
yes you are basically correct however not all caps are
5K ohms some are 1K and you might might find others. Yes your dielectric
grease is a good idea. The caps have what looks like a brass woodscrew
in them that screws into the wire end so just twist caps anticlockwise
on the wire to remove. You will find the resistance goes high not low.
There is several brands of caps like Bosch etc as well as NGK but I'm
an NGK freak. If you Google NGK Spark Plug Caps I'm sure you''ll come up
with a site that will show you the different plug caps on offer and
their coding. Yes they are coded like a plug type. If you find this you
won't need to unscrew and measure. However it's not a bad idea to do so
as if you are using resistor caps they should be checked because they do
fail and you can find a 5K cap reading 25K for instance. Carbon plug
leads used in cars are notorious for the same thing.
This is why I prefer resistor plugs and non resistor caps. This way
basically the resistor is unlikely to give trouble because you are
changing it when you change plugs. Every 25 hour ????
Rex.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kitfox as a Lite Sport |
| From: | "dcsfoto" <david(at)kelm.com> |
added info: check your limitations,the new limitations for phase one call for a
log entry showing gross weight, make sure this is not above 1320.
those with old limitations should be ok.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=79978#79978
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Guy Buchanan <bnn(at)nethere.com> |
At 04:43 PM 12/7/2006, you wrote:
>Don't know whre you have been buying your plugs, but we just went into the
>stock room and checked about 50 of them ... all came in between ..017 and
>.019 (these are the ones that come from Rotax)
Hi Bob! What are you selling? Are these NGK BR8ES and BRES? Is there a
source for similarly configured Iridium plugs? (I don't know why I want to
use these, I guess I thought they'd last longer. Maybe I'm wasting money.)
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Corner <jcorner(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: 0-235 vs Turbo Subaru |
Thanks to all that responded to my question. Since this is a very
personnel decision I was not surprised that most replies were
off-list. Most people are not willing to get involved in a potential
long debate and I certainly respect that.
The result of it all is that I have decided to go with the
Lycosaurus..... ten years ago, approaching 60 rather than 70 my
decision I think would have been the other way. All those extra
horses sure look tempting!
Thanks again.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "colindu" <colin(at)ptcsg.com> |
Hi Folks,
I'm about to fabric the wings on our KFIV, so before I do, I'd like to know what
the latest reccomendation is for sloshing the tanks, especially with regard
to the advent of ethanol. Non-ethanol fuel is standard here, but I'm sure it will
develop into an issue sooner rather than later, so I really want to make the
right choice now.
Any words of wisdom will be most welcome.
Regards
Colin Durey
Sydney
--------
Colin Durey
Sydney
+61-418-677073
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p020#80020
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank Sloshing |
Hi Colin,
Answers vary and it seems all have a point of truth to
them. One thing I haven't heard on the list though is
that aluminum parts don't handle well the corrosion
caused by water held by ethenol. My alum carb pits
from it and I think aluminum fuel lines may develop
leaks too.
I know that if you use electrical tape to "protect" an
alum line, it will corrode under the tape. I suspect
we will hear of corroded lines in the future from this
new fuel too.
I used an alchohol resistant slosh for my tanks. So
far, so good.
Kurt S. S-5
--- colindu wrote:
> Hi Folks,
>
> I'm about to fabric the wings on our KFIV, so before
> I do, I'd like to know what the latest
> reccomendation is for sloshing the tanks, especially
> with regard to the advent of ethanol. Non-ethanol
> fuel is standard here, but I'm sure it will develop
> into an issue sooner rather than later, so I really
> want to make the right choice now.
>
> Any words of wisdom will be most welcome.
>
> Regards
> Colin Durey
> Sydney
Have a burning question?
Go to www.Answers.yahoo.com and get answers from real people who know.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: TRY FIT GROVE L.G. FROM MODEL V TO IV |
You might want to check with Grove about that gear. I
thought they made one for each gross weight. If the
gear is too strong for your plane, you will bend
fuselage tubing before the gear bends. Grove might
swap to a KF-4 gear for a small fee if the do vary the
gear by weight. They are a great company to work with
from all I have heard.
But I could be wrong about it too. Just want you to
get it right and asking them cost so little.
Kurt S. S-5 w/ Grove
--- PEDRO PEREZ <5324(at)PRTC.NET> wrote:
> HELLO: LIST
>
> I HAVE A GROVE L.G. FROM A MODEL V ///
> SOMEBODY SOLD ME AND SAID THAT IT COULD FIT TO MY
> CLASSIC IV ....
Cheap talk?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Gibbs <MichaelGibbs(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 0-235 vs Turbo Subaru0-235 vs Turbo Subaru |
Glenn sez:
>The Lyc. No question about it. There are only two engine to fly
>behind.Lyc. 7 Cont.
The 5000 people involved in the class-action lawsuit against Lycoming
for defective crankshafts might beg to differ with you. They've
already suffered through multiple factory recalls and experienced
considerable down-time and personal expense.
Duane sez:
>[Lycomings & Continentals] have the advantage of being designed from
>the ground up as aircraft engines, and have benefited from years of
>improvement, and advances of material science.
Subaru engines were originally designed as airplane engines, too,
Notice the horizontally opposed arrangement of the cylinders? From
their web site:
"Fuji Heavy Industries Ltd., (FHI), traces its corporate lineage back
to Nakajima Aircraft Company, which was founded in 1917. In 1953,
five Japanese companies joined to form FHI, which has grown to become
one of Japan's largest manufacturers of transportation equipment...
"Best known for its Subaru automobiles, FHI also manufactures
commercial and military aircraft and aircraft parts, engines and
machinery, buses and rolling stock. The company has a long history as
a technological innovator and boasts some of the most diversified and
advanced all-wheel drive (AWD) technologies in the world."
The certified engines have stagnated in both technology and
materials. The Continental TSIO-360 in my Piper Turbo Arrow employs
almost exactly the same design, materials, and manufacturing methods
that have been used since the 1940s. Has any new engine design in
the last 50 years used mechanical ignitions?
I have a great deal of confidence in the that Continental engine, but
to say it has experienced "improvement" and "advances" is laughable.
>...use the car engine, and join the ranks of those who are in a
>continuous mode of solving carburetor problems, cooling leaks,
>gearbox issues, and head gasket concerns, ignition system questions,
>oil leaks...
With the exception of gearbox issues, you just described my previous
ownership experience with a Lycoming engine. OK, so the problems
were with fuel injection and the cooling problems related to baffling
in the cowling, but the headaches are there either way. Add to the
list several failed alternator couplings and loose magnetos and it
quickly becomes obvious there is no "higher ground" in such a debate.
Mike G.
N728KF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Matronics Fund Raiser - 2006 List of Contributors |
Dear Listers,
I would like to thank everyone that made a Contribution in support of the Lists
this year! It was really nice to hear all great comments people had regarding
the Lists! As I have said many times before, running these Lists is a labor
of love. Your generosity during the List Fund Raiser only underscores the great
sentiments people have made regarding the Lists.
If you haven't yet made a Contribution in support of this year's Fund Raiser please
feel free to do so. The nice List gifts will be available on the site for
just a little while longer, so hurry and make your Contribution and get your
great gift. Once again, the URL for the Contribution web site is:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
I would like to thank Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore ( http://www.buildersbooks.com ), Paul Besing of Aeroware Enterprises ( http://www.kitlog.com ), Jon Croke of Homebuilt HELP ( http://www.homebuilthelp.com ) and Bob Nuckolls of AeroElectric ( http://www.aeroelectric.com ) for their extremely generous support during this year's Fund Raiser through the contribution of merchandise. These are great guys that support the aviation industry and I encourage each and every Lister to have a look at their products. Thank you Andy, Paul, Jon and Bob!! Your support is very much appreciated!
And finally, below you will find a web link to the 2006 List of Contributors current
as of 12/7/06! Have a look at this list of names as these are the people
that make all of these List services possible! I can't thank each of you enough
for your support and great feedback during this year's Fund Raiser!
THANK YOU!
http://www.matronics.com/loc/2006.html
I will be shipping out all of the gifts in the next few weeks and hope to have
everything out by the end of the month. In most cases, gifts will be shipped
via US Postal Service. Kitlog Pro serial numbers should go out via email this
weekend.
Once again, thank you for making this year's List Fund Raiser successful!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Gibbs <MichaelGibbs(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 582 plugs |
Don sez:
>When I mentioned airplane, the store salesman "actually" refused to
>sell me the webbing.
Don, I'm surprised at you! Don't you remember? You really needed
the webbing for your lawn mower! :-)
Mike G.
N728KF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Martin" <CrownLJ(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Plugs solid tip loose |
Hi All,
This is a solid tip plug that has been in use for over 50hrs. Note
that the whole tip assembly was becoming unscrewed from the ceramic. I
now check them every time I check/clean the plugs. In 150 hrs, this one
was the worse, and I found one other loose, but still very intact. I
did not notice any performance difference. Both of the plugs were on
the same cylinder position (different times). I think that I might have
contributed by "safety" wrapping the wire caps too tight.
larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Plugs solid tip loose |
So much for solid tip plugs. I have been using plugs from the motorcycle shop and
gaping them myself. So far no problems on 170 hrs
Travis
582
-----Original Message-----
From: CrownLJ(at)verizon.net
Sent: Fri, 8 Dec 2006 8:40 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Plugs solid tip loose
Hi All,
This is a solid tip plug that has been in use for over 50hrs. Note that the
whole tip assembly was becoming unscrewed from the ceramic. I now check them
every time I check/clean the plugs. In 150 hrs, this one was the worse, and I
found one other loose, but still very intact. I did not notice any performance
difference. Both of the plugs were on the same cylinder position (different
times). I think that I might have contributed by "safety" wrapping the wire
caps too tight.
larry
[Image Removed]
[Image Removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank Sloshing |
List
I have been running some tests on the alcohol issue. The result is
preliminary, as it has only been going on since October 1.
FYI, the purpose of the testing is to find a coating for a balsa wood float
used in a low fuel sensor.
The test consists of a series of test tubes with floats coated with various
coatings and separated from the glass walls of the test tubes with a guide
wire. The guide wire prevents surface tension - floats against the glass
from masking the floats
ability to sink in the event it loses buoyancy.
This is the set-up:
Two floats coated with vinyl ester resin.
Two floats coated with vinyl ester resin that had been mixed in a plastic
cup attacked by the resin to see if the cup somehow degraded the resin.
Two floats coated with Kreem
One float coated with a fuel tank sealer from JC Whitney
One of each float is submerged in our version of California pump fuel which
I have measured as containing 6-7% ethanol. One of each float is submerged
in 97% ethanol (denatured alcohol). The Lone JC Whitney coated float is in
mogas.
For the first two weeks, on a daily basis, I took the floats up to a virtual
14,000 ft in a
bell jar to simulate flying to altitude to see if the coatings were breaking
down and allowing the floats to de-gas. since then the altitude test has
been conducted about weekly.
The result of the tests so far is as follows.
Early on, one of the Kreem coated floats degassed under vacuum suggesting a
breach of the coating. The air bubble was large - 1/16" and was on the end
of the float. Past experience suggests that if the coating fails large
bubbles from
the float interior will appear on the surface.
After 30 days, I removed the vinyl ester coated floats from the 97% ethanol
and mogas for observation. The submersion had dulled the surface from it's
original shiny appearance on both floats. The surface looked etched. When
returned to the test tube, They resumed their normal floating
condition. When I took the floats to the 14,000 ft. altitude, both floats
began to degass with what seemed to be thousands of microscopic, very
difficult to see bubbles. I saw no difference in the two mixes of resin.
To date, all Kreem coated floats have retained their luster in both the
mogas and the alcohol.
Since the early bubble seen on one Kreem Float, no evidence of coating
breach has been seen on any of the floats when taken to the 14,000 ft.
pressure in the vacuum chamber.
Discussion:
When brushing on the coating, it is more difficult to get full coverage with
Kreem if there is any oughness or pitting as was sometimes found on the end
grain balsa. This may be due to the very rapid evaporation of the MEK
thinner.
Fuel tank coating, I suspect would be more effective as it is a closed
system and the
MEK would be in a saturated environment and evaporation would be minimal
until the tank is vented. The surface of the Kreem retained it's luster and
is intact
and with the exception of one faulty coating, Kreem seems to have worked
well
to date.
The "Gas Tank Sealant" from JC Whitney has reacted identically to the Kreem.
The only difference between the two so far is that Kreem is a little
yellower in color
out of the can while the JC Whitney product is snow white,
With the loss of surface luster, I concluded that the vinyl ester resin had
been attacked by the alcohol (fuel) in both solutions and portions had been
dissolved. I am not a chemist, but I think when the resin cures it does
not result in a homogeneous solid, but is more like a sponge with areas of
hard resin with interspersed pockets of a more vulnerable material. I think
the softer material dissolved out into the alcohol / fuel. Then when dried,
air diffused into the porous surface and degassed as the pressure in the
bell jar was reduced. Vinyl ester resins are mixed similarly to polyester
resins with the use of MEKP and proportioned to determine curing times.
Small areas of roughness from the brush application were present indicating
that the resin was not being dissolved en masse.
>From this and past list discussions, my present conclusion is if you can get
the Kreem to stick and fill all the pinholes it is a good surface
preparation for alcohol resistence.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "colindu" <colin(at)ptcsg.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 9:49 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Tank Sloshing
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> I'm about to fabric the wings on our KFIV, so before I do, I'd like to
> know what the latest reccomendation is for sloshing the tanks, especially
> with regard to the advent of ethanol. Non-ethanol fuel is standard here,
> but I'm sure it will develop into an issue sooner rather than later, so I
> really want to make the right choice now.
>
> Any words of wisdom will be most welcome.
>
> Regards
> Colin Durey
> Sydney
>
> --------
> Colin Durey
> Sydney
> +61-418-677073
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p020#80020
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Robertson" <aerocontrols(at)clearwave.ca> |
Good Morning Guy,
We only handle the plugs that come to us from Rotax.. These are NGK B8ES
and BR8ES.
Rotax does not list an irridium plug. I am not sure if you can get a solid
core irriduim.
My feeling on standard vs. irriduim plugs is that you can replace your BR8ES
plugs every 50 hours and still come out
ahead (fiscally).
Just my two cents
Bob Robertson
----- Original Message -----
From: "Guy Buchanan" <bnn(at)nethere.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 7:28 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Spark Plugs
>
> At 04:43 PM 12/7/2006, you wrote:
>>Don't know whre you have been buying your plugs, but we just went into the
>>stock room and checked about 50 of them ... all came in between ..017 and
>>.019 (these are the ones that come from Rotax)
>
> Hi Bob! What are you selling? Are these NGK BR8ES and BRES? Is there a
> source for similarly configured Iridium plugs? (I don't know why I want to
> use these, I guess I thought they'd last longer. Maybe I'm wasting money.)
>
>
> Guy Buchanan
> K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
>
>
> --
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Seehafer" <av8rps(at)tznet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Skis for Kitfox's |
Lynn,
I've put almost 300 flying hours on a couple different sets of Avid's wheel
penetration skis and have to say ski flying is a blast, so don't shortchange
yourself by not doing it. And the wheel penetration ski works great. I
would never want to go back to a straight ski.
I sent you a short video showing the wheel penetration skis in operation on
my early Avid Flyer in a separate e-mail. Or for anyone else wanting to see
it just click onto the kitfox lazair videos at
http://www.lazair.com/kitfox/movies/ and choose the video titled
avicAskis.mpg. (or if you want to go direct, just click on
http://www.lazair.com/kitfox/movies/avicAskis.mpg, but then you'll miss all
the other great videos on that site).
Ski flying with wheel skis can only be compared to having a seaplane with
amphibious capability - the options of taking off at the airport and then
landing in snow (or water in the case of the seaplane) provides one with
significantly enhanced experiences. Knowing you can now go pretty much
anywhere you want is a real rush. It opens up so many opportunites to visit
places that were previously off limits to you. And from a safety
perspective, it significantly increases your places to land in the case of
an emergency. The fact that you won't have the hassle of dollying your
aircraft from the hangar to a snow runway, or that you won't have to worry
about either too much or too little snow (knowing you can always operate off
the asphalt) makes the wheel ski a pretty good thing to have for winter
flying enjoyment. You will also find snow operations easier than pavement,
as the aircraft tracks straighter with the skis, and runway lengths or
direction are generally less limited. When you do a good snow landing it is
much like flying floats, you won't even know you are on the surface until
you either hit a small bump or see a spray coming off the undercarriage.
I'm not sure that flying can get any better than that...
The downside? Well, there are definitely some issues with ski flying. I
personally believe ski flying has a tremendous possibility of messing up
your airplane. Remember, most aircraft get wrecked off airport. And in the
case of skis, because you can go pretty much anywhere, you tend to do so.
And to make matters worse, the place you are going to land on is most likely
covered with a nice smooth layer of snow. It will probably look gorgeous
from the air. Smooth and bump free. But hidden underneath all that smooth
snow can be boulders, ridges, fence wire, ice chunks, etc, etc. Adding
insult to injury is the fact that you can't see very well as you are truly
experiencing the effect of being snow blinded. Flying low over a snow
covered area before you land looking for obstructions is always advised, but
many times won't really show you anything except a lot of white. Snow
drifts, ridges, and shallow drop offs are hazards that are some of the
hardest to see, many times being impossible to distinguish from the flat
areas. The 7,000 acre lake I live on here in Wisconsin makes for a great
winter runway (that's where the video was shot). But because we have a lot
of snowmobilers making ruts, and ice fisherman drilling holes (with nice
hard elevated rings of ice around the opening) all over the place, you have
to be careful. I'll admit to hitting many an ice fishing holes, and landing
cross ways on hardened and rough snowmobile trails, in my hours of ski
flying. That isn't exactly the fun part I described earlier. It will make
you wonder how much of that abuse your skis and/or your plane will handle
before breaking something. But if you are careful, and get those days when
you are the only one out in the fresh powder, it will make all other winter
snow related activities boring by comparison.
Here's a cute little wheel ski story I have to tell; One year I was lazier
than usual and left my wheel penetration skis on my Avid until mid July. I
thought it was kind of funny to do it, and what the heck, the airplane
operated just the same. But I decided that I had one last thing to do
before removing them..... So I loaded up my sheepskin lined leather winter
parka, along with my heaviest mittens and fur hat. Then I flew the little
Avid to a small airport I had never been to before. Once there I pulled up
at the fuel pump to top off my fuel (all of about 4 gallons as I recall).
When the line boy came out he was totally confused by seeing skis on my
plane. He asked where I had come from? I told him the mountains north of
the Yukon territories. Trying to keep from laughing, I told him I was glad
all the snow and ice had finally melted off the plane, and then went on and
on about how nice the weather was here in Wisconsin. Intrigued, he started
asking a lot of questions about range, speed, carrying capacity, etc of my
little white Avid Flyer. Then he wanted to know how it is that I could sit
that long in that small cabin? Somehow or other I muttered out answers
without laughing. Finally we went into the FBO so I could pay for the fuel,
and the next thing I know he has all of his coworkers coming out to see
"this neat little plane that flew here from somewhere near the north pole!".
Trying to avoid a lot of embarassment, or possibly being strung up by the
line boy, I told them all the truth, and then apologized for stringing them
along. They were a great bunch as they all got a good laugh from it.
Flying home that day I knew it would be a day I'd remember for a long time.
So there's proof wheel penetration skis aren't just for winter anymore
If you live where there's snow, go out and enjoy some ski flying. You'll
never regret it. If you don't get any snow, well you might want to consider
moving where there is...
Paul Seehafer
Central Wisconsin
ps - attached is a picture of my early Avid on wheel skis with the large
skinny tires. My later Avid uses the standard Avid/Kitfox type tundra tire.
Both tires worked well, with the advantage going to the narrow and tall tire
due to providing more ski area when in deep snow.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lynn Matteson" <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 8:46 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Skis for Kitfox's
>
> I'd like to get peoples opinions on skis for a Model IV. I know Skystar
> offered them, but not (I don't think) in the wheel-penetration type that I
> am interested in. We don't get enough snow around here (Lower Michigan) to
> warrant full skis...that is, non-penetration skis. But if we get our
> normal amount, my strip will be snowed over, while most of the paved
> strips will be cleared of snow, and I wouldn't be able to go
> there....well, you get the idea. I'd like to hear some dialogue about what
> is involved in flying with skis, problems encountered, etc. I am thinking
> of building my own skis of the wheel-penetration type, or perhaps buying
> if a pair is available. I need a project, so building is preferred.
>
> Lynn
> Kitfox IV Speedster...Jabiru 2200
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Skis for Kitfox's |
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
Ok, that was enough to convince me...I'm building a set of skis...wheel
skis...for my fox. I just watched Paul's avicAskis.mpg video, and I'm a
believer. I probably won't get airborne as quick as Paul, given my
Jabiru engine and cruise prop, but I'll get up there eventually. : )
Lynn
On Friday, December 8, 2006, at 11:16 AM, Paul Seehafer wrote:
> Lynn,
>
> I've put almost 300 flying hours on a couple different sets of Avid's
> wheel penetration skis and have to say ski flying is a blast, so don't
> shortchange yourself by not doing it. And the wheel penetration ski
> works great. I would never want to go back to a straight ski.
>
> I sent you a short video showing the wheel penetration skis in
> operation on my early Avid Flyer in a separate e-mail. Or for anyone
> else wanting to see it just click onto the kitfox lazair videos at
> http://www.lazair.com/kitfox/movies/ and choose the video titled
> avicAskis.mpg. (or if you want to go direct, just click on
> http://www.lazair.com/kitfox/movies/avicAskis.mpg, but then you'll
> miss all the other great videos on that site).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nick Scholtes <Nick(at)Scholtes1.com> |
| Subject: | Cabin Heater Questions |
KitFoxers,
I have a couple of questions about cabin heaters for a KitFox. I'm in
the process of purchasing a KitFox, which is located in Florida, and
flying it home here to the arctic (Chicago -- brrrrrrrrr!!!). The
KitFox in question is a Model IV Speedster with a 912UL, and it has no
heater.
But it was originally equipped with a carb heater. The owner decided
that carb heat wasn't required anymore, and removed the air hoses and
simply put air cleaners on the carb. But, the heat "muff" and the carb
heat box are still there.
One question is, if I duct the heat out of the carb heat box to holes
that I drill in the firewall, will that be enough heat to be
"comfortable" in a Chicago winter?
My other question revolves around installing a water heater. It seems
to me that there are two ways to plumb in the water heater. One is to
plumb it "in series" with the radiator, the other is to plumb it "in
parallel". If it is plumbed "in series" and before the radiator, water
that is at it's hottest gets to the heater core. But, there is no way
to put a valve in-line to "throttle" the water flow. If the heater core
is placed "in parallel" with the radiator, then it can be throttled, but
it seems as though not much hot water would get to it, with the water
choosing to flow through the less-restrictive radiator instead.
Anyway, any advice on how to plumb in a heater core?
Thanks!
Nick Scholtes
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rudder Cable Tubing. |
| From: | "Napier, Mark" <Mark.Napier(at)sciatl.com> |
Hello,
Does anyone know what that tubing is that runs around the sides of the
seats? It is long and acts as a bushing/sleeve for the rudder cables on
my Model III.
I would like to buy some more but don't know what the material is or the
exact size.
Thanks in advance,
Mark Napier
- - - - - Appended by Scientific Atlanta, a Cisco company - - - - -
This e-mail and any attachments may contain information which is confidential,
proprietary, privileged or otherwise protected by law. The information is solely
intended for the named addressee (or a person responsible for delivering it to
the addressee). If you are not the intended recipient of this message, you are
not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this message or any
part of it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender
immediately by return e-mail and delete it from your computer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heater Questions |
| From: | "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike(at)yahoo.com> |
I put a heater system on my 912ul kitfox4. The way I did it was to take a funnel
and put it behind the radiator and then put a hose on the back of that and
run it into the cabin. Works good down to 30 degrees. When it gets that cold
you also need to restrict the radiator, currently I'm using duct tape, but I
want to change to something better, still thinking on that one.
With this in mind, I want to pull off the radiator where the hottest spot is, currently
I'm pulling off the center, I want to move the funnel to the side that
has the hottest water, meaning the inlet of the radiator. Does anybody know
the direction of flow of the radiator. Does it come in on the copilot side or
the pilot side???
What's great about using this is there is no drain on the electrical system and
no weight gain.
My next project is to remove all the cowlings and put a plastic wrap around everying
for the cockpit to keep out air leaks, will find out possibly tonight on
that one.
--------
kitfoxmike
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p195#80195
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FS: David Clark H10-13S "LNIB" |
| From: | "darinh" <gerns25(at)netscape.net> |
Guys,
I am selling my DC headset that I used to get my private license with. I was going
to keep it for use when I finish the Series 7 but it is going to be a year
or two before I get it finished and I am thinking of going to two ANR headsets
for the 7 anyway. The headset was purchased new almost 2 years ago and has
approximately 60 hours flight time on it. Would like to get $225 shipped anywhere
in the US (lower 48) but am open to reasonable offers.
Thanks guys,
Darin
Series 7 (Building up funds for the 914)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p204#80204
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dscf1617_medium_110.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FS: David Clark H10-13S "LNIB" |
| From: | "darinh" <gerns25(at)netscape.net> |
Don't know why the little smiley with the shades is appearing above??? It should
say "lower 48".
Darin
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p205#80205
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kirk hull" <kirkhull(at)kc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heater Questions |
I installed a heater core with an electric fan works great to well below
zero if the cabin is sealed up well.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of kitfoxmike
Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 1:20 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Cabin Heater Questions
I put a heater system on my 912ul kitfox4. The way I did it was to take a
funnel and put it behind the radiator and then put a hose on the back of
that and run it into the cabin. Works good down to 30 degrees. When it
gets that cold you also need to restrict the radiator, currently I'm using
duct tape, but I want to change to something better, still thinking on that
one.
With this in mind, I want to pull off the radiator where the hottest spot
is, currently I'm pulling off the center, I want to move the funnel to the
side that has the hottest water, meaning the inlet of the radiator. Does
anybody know the direction of flow of the radiator. Does it come in on the
copilot side or the pilot side???
What's great about using this is there is no drain on the electrical system
and no weight gain.
My next project is to remove all the cowlings and put a plastic wrap around
everying for the cockpit to keep out air leaks, will find out possibly
tonight on that one.
--------
kitfoxmike
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p195#80195
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | Cabin Heater Questions |
For the radiator heater Plumb it in parallel with the radiator then all you
have to do is to put a throttling valve in series with the radiator to force
hot water through the heater core. You may also want to put a throttling
valve in series with the heater core to eliminate heat during those hot
Illinois summer days. Just make sure only one throttle is closed at a time
and you never completely close the valve on the radiator.
I was in Rockford over 40 yr. ago For the first annual EAA fly in.... I
remember getting off the plane at O'Hare and having the heat hit me like a
brick wall!
Noel
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Nick Scholtes
> Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 2:29 PM
> To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Cabin Heater Questions
>
>
>
> KitFoxers,
>
> I have a couple of questions about cabin heaters for a
> KitFox. I'm in
> the process of purchasing a KitFox, which is located in Florida, and
> flying it home here to the arctic (Chicago -- brrrrrrrrr!!!). The
> KitFox in question is a Model IV Speedster with a 912UL, and
> it has no
> heater.
>
> But it was originally equipped with a carb heater. The owner decided
> that carb heat wasn't required anymore, and removed the air hoses and
> simply put air cleaners on the carb. But, the heat "muff"
> and the carb
> heat box are still there.
>
> One question is, if I duct the heat out of the carb heat box to holes
> that I drill in the firewall, will that be enough heat to be
> "comfortable" in a Chicago winter?
>
> My other question revolves around installing a water heater.
> It seems
> to me that there are two ways to plumb in the water heater.
> One is to
> plumb it "in series" with the radiator, the other is to plumb it "in
> parallel". If it is plumbed "in series" and before the
> radiator, water
> that is at it's hottest gets to the heater core. But, there
> is no way
> to put a valve in-line to "throttle" the water flow. If the
> heater core
> is placed "in parallel" with the radiator, then it can be
> throttled, but
> it seems as though not much hot water would get to it, with the water
> choosing to flow through the less-restrictive radiator instead.
>
> Anyway, any advice on how to plumb in a heater core?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Nick Scholtes
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heater Questions |
| From: | "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike(at)yahoo.com> |
mine would work great if everything is sealed up. The thing is, I thought of the
hot water heater inside, but I didn't like the idea of all the junk that is
involved. Plus, my electrical is tapped out. I fly with a stereo, transponder,
and my favorite: wellon strobes, the best they have. those suckers are so
bright they can be seen from far away. Usually I can be seen before I ever see
the other plane.
When I put my hand on the hose (from the hose coming off the radiator) it is always
a good temp, just get so much leaks from the cowl and such, hopefully my
wrap will work out.
Another plus from this is you can install it in about 15 minutes with, oil funnel,
wire ties, and about 2 feet of 1 1/2 hose. instant low cost heat.
--------
kitfoxmike
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p213#80213
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Tubing. |
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
The piece that I have is marked: S&L PLASTICS NYLAFLOW (R) PRESSURE
TUBING TYPE 5/16"H SK82 .01 QC# K1ONO
That's probably WAY more than you need to know...5/16" Nylon tubing
(rigid) is probably what you want....John McBean probably sells it.
This was a chunk left over from my IV, but is undoubtedly the same
stuff.
Lynn
On Friday, December 8, 2006, at 01:45 PM, Napier, Mark wrote:
>
>
> Hello,
>
> Does anyone know what that tubing is that runs around the sides of the
> seats? It is long and acts as a bushing/sleeve for the rudder cables
> on
> my Model III.
>
> I would like to buy some more but don't know what the material is or
> the
> exact size.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Mark Napier
>
>
> - - - - - Appended by Scientific Atlanta, a Cisco company - - - -
> -
> This e-mail and any attachments may contain information which is
> confidential,
> proprietary, privileged or otherwise protected by law. The information
> is solely
> intended for the named addressee (or a person responsible for
> delivering it to
> the addressee). If you are not the intended recipient of this message,
> you are
> not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this
> message or any
> part of it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify
> the sender
> immediately by return e-mail and delete it from your computer.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220(at)yahoo.com> |
Remember, if you trim plugs this way to make sure that
there are no metal filings left in the plug recesses
to be introduced into the engine. Same when using
spark plug cleaning machines. Those abbrasives can
really tear up a cylinder.
Kurt S S-5
--- Fox5flyer <fox5flyer@i-star.com> wrote:
> Hey guys, I'm not trying to inhibit this thread and
> I know we're all learning a lot about spark plugs
> and that's a good thing, but these plugs aren't
> really all that much of a problem. Just buy the
> correct heat range available at the local auto parts
> house and like Don says, stake the cap on.
> Alternatively, use a drop of locktite to hold it on
> there. As for the ground terminal being too long,
> it's very simple to just gently tap it to the
> correct gap, then use a file or dremel to trim it
> back to the correct length, being sure to avoid
> nicking the electrode. Be sure that the end is flat
> and square with sharp right angles. It only takes a
> few minutes per plug.
> Additionally, I remember that it was said that in
> the winter time people close the gap to the minimum
> to help with easier starts. I'm speaking of the
> 582s here, not the 912 which may be a bit different,
> but I doubt it.
> Deke
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heater Questions |
Nick,
One thought regarding using the heat muff. The traditional heater sold by
Skystar recirculated the air through the heater core. Mine is similar to
what you are describing and it uses ram outside air across the core for
heat. If it is 30 outside it may warm the air to 90. If it is 20 it may
warm it to 80, etc. It will take the chill off my feet, but I still wear
warm clothing. Another guy with the SS heater flys in his shirtsleeves.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nick Scholtes" <Nick(at)Scholtes1.com>
Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 9:58 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Cabin Heater Questions
>
> KitFoxers,
>
> I have a couple of questions about cabin heaters for a KitFox. I'm in the
> process of purchasing a KitFox, which is located in Florida, and flying it
> home here to the arctic (Chicago -- brrrrrrrrr!!!). The KitFox in
> question is a Model IV Speedster with a 912UL, and it has no heater.
>
> But it was originally equipped with a carb heater. The owner decided that
> carb heat wasn't required anymore, and removed the air hoses and simply
> put air cleaners on the carb. But, the heat "muff" and the carb heat box
> are still there.
>
> One question is, if I duct the heat out of the carb heat box to holes that
> I drill in the firewall, will that be enough heat to be "comfortable" in a
> Chicago winter?
>
> My other question revolves around installing a water heater. It seems to
> me that there are two ways to plumb in the water heater. One is to plumb
> it "in series" with the radiator, the other is to plumb it "in parallel".
> If it is plumbed "in series" and before the radiator, water that is at
> it's hottest gets to the heater core. But, there is no way to put a valve
> in-line to "throttle" the water flow. If the heater core is placed "in
> parallel" with the radiator, then it can be throttled, but it seems as
> though not much hot water would get to it, with the water choosing to flow
> through the less-restrictive radiator instead.
> Anyway, any advice on how to plumb in a heater core?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Nick Scholtes
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
Kurt-
I'm surprised to hear/read you mention spark plug cleaning
machines...I've heard for the last 10 years or so, not to use a
sandblasting machine for cleaning spark plugs. Are there other cleaning
machines that do not use sand? The theory goes that the sand blasts the
ceramic/porcelain...whatever...insulator and this is bad for the plug.
Maybe somebody else closer to the subject can verify this info.
Lynn
On Friday, December 8, 2006, at 04:48 PM, kurt schrader wrote:
>
>
> Remember, if you trim plugs this way to make sure that
> there are no metal filings left in the plug recesses
> to be introduced into the engine. Same when using
> spark plug cleaning machines. Those abbrasives can
> really tear up a cylinder.
>
> Kurt S S-5
>
> --- Fox5flyer <fox5flyer@i-star.com> wrote:
>
>> Hey guys, I'm not trying to inhibit this thread and
>> I know we're all learning a lot about spark plugs
>> and that's a good thing, but these plugs aren't
>> really all that much of a problem. Just buy the
>> correct heat range available at the local auto parts
>> house and like Don says, stake the cap on.
>> Alternatively, use a drop of locktite to hold it on
>> there. As for the ground terminal being too long,
>> it's very simple to just gently tap it to the
>> correct gap, then use a file or dremel to trim it
>> back to the correct length, being sure to avoid
>> nicking the electrode. Be sure that the end is flat
>> and square with sharp right angles. It only takes a
>> few minutes per plug.
>> Additionally, I remember that it was said that in
>> the winter time people close the gap to the minimum
>> to help with easier starts. I'm speaking of the
>> 582s here, not the 912 which may be a bit different,
>> but I doubt it.
>> Deke
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "john perry" <eskflyer(at)lvcisp.com> |
I do not know why anyone would clean a plug when they are available new for
less than 2 dollars each. Yes this is the NGK Stock # 3863 Stock # 3961
BR8ES, B8ES plugs . Solid cap plugs .
John Perry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lynn Matteson" <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>
Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 6:59 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Spark Plugs
>
> Kurt-
> I'm surprised to hear/read you mention spark plug cleaning machines...I've
> heard for the last 10 years or so, not to use a sandblasting machine for
> cleaning spark plugs. Are there other cleaning machines that do not use
> sand? The theory goes that the sand blasts the
> ceramic/porcelain...whatever...insulator and this is bad for the plug.
> Maybe somebody else closer to the subject can verify this info.
>
> Lynn
> On Friday, December 8, 2006, at 04:48 PM, kurt schrader wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Remember, if you trim plugs this way to make sure that
>> there are no metal filings left in the plug recesses
>> to be introduced into the engine. Same when using
>> spark plug cleaning machines. Those abbrasives can
>> really tear up a cylinder.
>>
>> Kurt S S-5
>>
>> --- Fox5flyer <fox5flyer@i-star.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hey guys, I'm not trying to inhibit this thread and
>>> I know we're all learning a lot about spark plugs
>>> and that's a good thing, but these plugs aren't
>>> really all that much of a problem. Just buy the
>>> correct heat range available at the local auto parts
>>> house and like Don says, stake the cap on.
>>> Alternatively, use a drop of locktite to hold it on
>>> there. As for the ground terminal being too long,
>>> it's very simple to just gently tap it to the
>>> correct gap, then use a file or dremel to trim it
>>> back to the correct length, being sure to avoid
>>> nicking the electrode. Be sure that the end is flat
>>> and square with sharp right angles. It only takes a
>>> few minutes per plug.
>>> Additionally, I remember that it was said that in
>>> the winter time people close the gap to the minimum
>>> to help with easier starts. I'm speaking of the
>>> 582s here, not the 912 which may be a bit different,
>>> but I doubt it.
>>> Deke
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220(at)yahoo.com> |
You are right Lynn,
I got rid of my plug cleaning machine many years ago.
It didn't use sand, but any abrasive can produce
damage if not thouroughly cleaned out. (Mine
supposedly didn't harm the ceramic. If I remember
correctly, it used ceramic chips)
If you are buying aviation plugs at around $10 each
and 2 per cyl, cleaning them may still make economic
sense.
And if you modify them a Deke suggests, you need to
carefully clean out any debris, just like the blasting
material, as well.
So, the need to clean plugs can still come up and that
is why I made the suggestion.
Kurt S.
--- Lynn Matteson wrote:
> Kurt-
> I'm surprised to hear/read you mention spark plug
> cleaning
> machines...I've heard for the last 10 years or so,
> not to use a
> sandblasting machine for cleaning spark plugs. Are
> there other cleaning
> machines that do not use sand? The theory goes that
> the sand blasts the
> ceramic/porcelain...whatever...insulator and this is
> bad for the plug.
> Maybe somebody else closer to the subject can verify
> this info.
>
> Lynn
Any questions? Get answers on any topic at www.Answers.yahoo.com. Try it now.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heater Questions |
I like your idea better Lowell. If we come to a
survival situation, it will be with what we have on
and possibly with injuries. Wear what you wear
outside and you will be better prepared.
Kurt S. S-5
--- Lowell Fitt wrote:
> Nick,
> ...............
> It will take the chill off my feet, but I still
> wear warm clothing. Another guy with the SS heater
> flys in his shirtsleeves.
>
> Lowell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dave" <dave(at)cfisher.com> |
Ok, Season is here and A few are ski flyers and sounds like a few more
will becoming Ski fliers.
I wanted to say a good story from Noel a few days ago on the coffin that got
tossed from the Beaver. I got a good chuckle anyhow. He did bring on a
good point with the greenage put along the runway. One thing I have always
used on Ski planes is a good set of sunglasses or coloured lens that suit
you th best for giving good depth perception.
For anyone that has skied you will know how those cloudy days give the worst
depth perception from flat and low light conditions. And when on skis if
you cannot see the surface at all then you might not see ruts, drifts and
chunks of ice and snow on your intended take off or landing path. This can
spell disaster very quickly. So you have to be able to see better. Now add
some blowing snow and ground drifting and you will be even more blind.
I have found that yellow glasses work well you know the ones used for
shooting. I wear glasses and I have a pair of yellow safety glasses in the
plane . I also have my old Bolle IREX lens which are prescription ground.
There are mountaineering glasses and work excellent. I am sure most have
decent sunglasses now with IR and UV protection so next time you out in
the snow take a few pairs with you and see what works best. I even find
these help alot in the cars during snowy days adn whiteout conditions in the
daytimer as the light refracts off the blowing snow.
Also dress for winter in case you go down. zero F is not place to be
with just pants and sweat shirt. I carry a winter survival kit with me as
well as lots of waterproof matches, rope , hatchet, saw and a few small
tarps and extra gloves and hat.
Heater - Cabin heat . I have a scoop off the back of my radiator that
blows heated air about 160 F into the cabin on each side of the flap handle
through 2 1" holes -- Not enough for below 20F but helps a bit. I also
have a heat muff on the Muffler 13 " x 9 " that is piped into the cabin
via 2 1 1/2" Scat tubes. This makes me comfortable down to -10 F . at
this OAT the cabin will be about 40 to 45 F on a cloudy day and warmer on
sunny days. On a average winter day with temps at 20 F the cain will be
about 50 to 60 F on a cloudy day. Good heater is certainly worth the
effort.
Good battery is always helpful but also on my 582 good handproping skills
is VERY Helpful if you do not have a pull start. The ducati igntion needs
minimum of 250 RPM to get a spark generated and when temps get below 30 F I
find with that cold viscous gear oil it slows the starter enough that it
can be hard to start. I always turn over the prop about 10 ot 15 turns to
help loosen up oil a bit. But this is not always enough. But a few good
swings of the prop and it will usually fire right away. (YES those 3 to 1
gear gear boxes really spin that engine quick enought by hand. ) Your
enricher ( some call it a choke ) will work but a primer makes the easiest
starts. Nothing sucks more than when you are all set to go out a pristine
cold winter day and the engine will not fire.
Good walk around as usual but including your skis , bungees, crust cutter
cable and safety cables. I see many guys use a bungee from tip of ski amd
this can lead to failure of the bugge from snow abrasion so keep an eye on
them. Those 4 ot 5 foot skis put a good strain on your axles and gear as
well, so always keep a sharp eye for anything that does not look still
"aligned" on those big feet of yours. Surely most of you know but always
look for frost and ice ...... It will destroy alot if not all your lift.
AS well as ice on control surfaces can cause binding.
Make sure drain holes are clear in fuselage and you have not picked up 10
or 20 pounds inside your tail of ice from weather.
I could go on but Sun will be up soon here and time to go Ski flying !
Thanks to Paul Seehafer for the good write up on Ski flying and the video
link . Thanks Paul and great video !!
And once you all get on skis and floats -- you just might realize what you
been missing and throw those silly black rubber doughnuts away you been used
to :-)
You think landing on glassy water is smooth - try it 2 to 3 feet of fresh
snow !!
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca> |
Certainly if you use the sandblasting machine you will want to pressure test
the plug before installing it. I've seen spark plugs cleaned with an awl...
Carefully pick out the debris. Definitely not recommended but common enough
to mention.
Noel
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Lynn Matteson
> Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 9:30 PM
> To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Spark Plugs
>
>
>
> Kurt-
> I'm surprised to hear/read you mention spark plug cleaning
> machines...I've heard for the last 10 years or so, not to use a
> sandblasting machine for cleaning spark plugs. Are there
> other cleaning
> machines that do not use sand? The theory goes that the sand
> blasts the
> ceramic/porcelain...whatever...insulator and this is bad for
> the plug.
> Maybe somebody else closer to the subject can verify this info.
>
> Lynn
> On Friday, December 8, 2006, at 04:48 PM, kurt schrader wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Remember, if you trim plugs this way to make sure that
> > there are no metal filings left in the plug recesses
> > to be introduced into the engine. Same when using
> > spark plug cleaning machines. Those abbrasives can
> > really tear up a cylinder.
> >
> > Kurt S S-5
> >
> > --- Fox5flyer <fox5flyer@i-star.com> wrote:
> >
> >> Hey guys, I'm not trying to inhibit this thread and
> >> I know we're all learning a lot about spark plugs
> >> and that's a good thing, but these plugs aren't
> >> really all that much of a problem. Just buy the
> >> correct heat range available at the local auto parts
> >> house and like Don says, stake the cap on.
> >> Alternatively, use a drop of locktite to hold it on
> >> there. As for the ground terminal being too long,
> >> it's very simple to just gently tap it to the
> >> correct gap, then use a file or dremel to trim it
> >> back to the correct length, being sure to avoid
> >> nicking the electrode. Be sure that the end is flat
> >> and square with sharp right angles. It only takes a
> >> few minutes per plug.
> >> Additionally, I remember that it was said that in
> >> the winter time people close the gap to the minimum
> >> to help with easier starts. I'm speaking of the
> >> 582s here, not the 912 which may be a bit different,
> >> but I doubt it.
> >> Deke
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca> |
Some of those aviation plugs are the dear side of $50.00/plug. After
cleaning, by whatever method, they really should be blown out with air (
100psi or more ) and then pressure tested. It's amazing how some perfect
looking plugs arc all over the place only under pressure.
Noel
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> kurt schrader
> Sent: Saturday, December 09, 2006 2:40 AM
> To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Spark Plugs
>
>
>
>
> You are right Lynn,
>
> I got rid of my plug cleaning machine many years ago.
> It didn't use sand, but any abrasive can produce
> damage if not thouroughly cleaned out. (Mine
> supposedly didn't harm the ceramic. If I remember
> correctly, it used ceramic chips)
>
> If you are buying aviation plugs at around $10 each
> and 2 per cyl, cleaning them may still make economic
> sense.
>
> And if you modify them a Deke suggests, you need to
> carefully clean out any debris, just like the blasting
> material, as well.
>
> So, the need to clean plugs can still come up and that
> is why I made the suggestion.
>
> Kurt S.
>
> --- Lynn Matteson wrote:
>
> > Kurt-
> > I'm surprised to hear/read you mention spark plug
> > cleaning
> > machines...I've heard for the last 10 years or so,
> > not to use a
> > sandblasting machine for cleaning spark plugs. Are
> > there other cleaning
> > machines that do not use sand? The theory goes that
> > the sand blasts the
> > ceramic/porcelain...whatever...insulator and this is
> > bad for the plug.
> > Maybe somebody else closer to the subject can verify
> > this info.
> >
> > Lynn
>
>
>
> Any questions? Get answers on any topic at
> www.Answers.yahoo.com. Try it now.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | Cabin Heater Questions |
The best thing to have is survival training. Warm clothing in cold climes
is step one.
Noel
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> kurt schrader
> Sent: Saturday, December 09, 2006 2:47 AM
> To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Cabin Heater Questions
>
>
>
>
> I like your idea better Lowell. If we come to a
> survival situation, it will be with what we have on
> and possibly with injuries. Wear what you wear
> outside and you will be better prepared.
>
> Kurt S. S-5
>
> --- Lowell Fitt wrote:
>
> > Nick,
> > ...............
> > It will take the chill off my feet, but I still
> > wear warm clothing. Another guy with the SS heater
> > flys in his shirtsleeves.
> >
> > Lowell
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MA Stanard" <cgod(at)cebridge.net> |
I am planning on installing an inverter behind the seat that will
connect to a separate battery. From the inverter I will run a small
electrical heater and mount it under the dash. Does anyone know why I
should not do this?
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heater Questions |
Kurt,
I had this conversation once with Burt Garrison. He flew the last
operational mission of the SR-71, then went on to fly the U-2 before
retirement and a position with SouthWest. I borrowed his hangar at Lincoln
Harder near Beal AFB when I did my first flight there in 1998. He said he
flew over the Sierras one beautiful clear winter day in a friends Luscombe
and it wasn't until he got home that he thought of his mistake. Since then
when I fly over rough winter terrain, I take my little tent, sleeping bag,
parka. etc.
I got some good advice from Burt, by just listening to his story.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "kurt schrader" <smokey_bear_40220(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 10:16 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Cabin Heater Questions
>
>
> I like your idea better Lowell. If we come to a
> survival situation, it will be with what we have on
> and possibly with injuries. Wear what you wear
> outside and you will be better prepared.
>
> Kurt S. S-5
>
> --- Lowell Fitt wrote:
>
>> Nick,
>> ...............
>> It will take the chill off my feet, but I still
>> wear warm clothing. Another guy with the SS heater
>> flys in his shirtsleeves.
>>
>> Lowell
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I just read the LightSpeed installation manual for the electronic ignition
going into the Lancair IV. It recommends never using a blaster type
cleaner, but rather a propane torch to burn off any liquid deposits and a
"sharp steel" instrument to scrape off any hard deposits.
For what it's worth.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca>
Sent: Saturday, December 09, 2006 5:18 AM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Spark Plugs
>
> Certainly if you use the sandblasting machine you will want to pressure
> test
> the plug before installing it. I've seen spark plugs cleaned with an
> awl...
> Carefully pick out the debris. Definitely not recommended but common
> enough
> to mention.
>
> Noel
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>> Lynn Matteson
>> Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 9:30 PM
>> To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Spark Plugs
>>
>>
>>
>> Kurt-
>> I'm surprised to hear/read you mention spark plug cleaning
>> machines...I've heard for the last 10 years or so, not to use a
>> sandblasting machine for cleaning spark plugs. Are there
>> other cleaning
>> machines that do not use sand? The theory goes that the sand
>> blasts the
>> ceramic/porcelain...whatever...insulator and this is bad for
>> the plug.
>> Maybe somebody else closer to the subject can verify this info.
>>
>> Lynn
>> On Friday, December 8, 2006, at 04:48 PM, kurt schrader wrote:
>>
>> >
>> >
>> > Remember, if you trim plugs this way to make sure that
>> > there are no metal filings left in the plug recesses
>> > to be introduced into the engine. Same when using
>> > spark plug cleaning machines. Those abbrasives can
>> > really tear up a cylinder.
>> >
>> > Kurt S S-5
>> >
>> > --- Fox5flyer <fox5flyer@i-star.com> wrote:
>> >
>> >> Hey guys, I'm not trying to inhibit this thread and
>> >> I know we're all learning a lot about spark plugs
>> >> and that's a good thing, but these plugs aren't
>> >> really all that much of a problem. Just buy the
>> >> correct heat range available at the local auto parts
>> >> house and like Don says, stake the cap on.
>> >> Alternatively, use a drop of locktite to hold it on
>> >> there. As for the ground terminal being too long,
>> >> it's very simple to just gently tap it to the
>> >> correct gap, then use a file or dremel to trim it
>> >> back to the correct length, being sure to avoid
>> >> nicking the electrode. Be sure that the end is flat
>> >> and square with sharp right angles. It only takes a
>> >> few minutes per plug.
>> >> Additionally, I remember that it was said that in
>> >> the winter time people close the gap to the minimum
>> >> to help with easier starts. I'm speaking of the
>> >> 582s here, not the 912 which may be a bit different,
>> >> but I doubt it.
>> >> Deke
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave G." <occom(at)ns.sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heater Questions |
A personal locator beacon with GPS is a good idea for fliers or hunters or
really just about anyone heading into the wilderness, They'll find you a lot
faster if they know where you are.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 09, 2006 11:49 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Cabin Heater Questions
>
> Kurt,
>
> I had this conversation once with Burt Garrison. He flew the last
> operational mission of the SR-71, then went on to fly the U-2 before
> retirement and a position with SouthWest. I borrowed his hangar at
> Lincoln Harder near Beal AFB when I did my first flight there in 1998. He
> said he flew over the Sierras one beautiful clear winter day in a friends
> Luscombe and it wasn't until he got home that he thought of his mistake.
> Since then when I fly over rough winter terrain, I take my little tent,
> sleeping bag, parka. etc.
>
> I got some good advice from Burt, by just listening to his story.
>
> Lowell
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "kurt schrader" <smokey_bear_40220(at)yahoo.com>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 10:16 PM
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Cabin Heater Questions
>
>
>>
>>
>> I like your idea better Lowell. If we come to a
>> survival situation, it will be with what we have on
>> and possibly with injuries. Wear what you wear
>> outside and you will be better prepared.
>>
>> Kurt S. S-5
>>
>> --- Lowell Fitt wrote:
>>
>>> Nick,
>>> ...............
>>> It will take the chill off my feet, but I still
>>> wear warm clothing. Another guy with the SS heater
>>> flys in his shirtsleeves.
>>>
>>> Lowell
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Good point Noel. I once experienced a bad ignition miss while under
full power takeoff that straightened out when I reduced power to
cruise rpm. I spent many hours going through the ignition and fuel
system trying to track down the problem finding nothing amiss so I
decided to change plugs to see what happens. Problem solved. I've
got one of those hand held spark plug blasters that does a nice job
cleaning up a plug, but what they can also do is crack the insulator
that causes exactly what I was experiencing. I no longer use if for
my airplane plugs. If they get sooted up or look suspect I just
replace them with new ones. $10 for four plugs gives good peace of
mind.
Deke
>
>
>Certainly if you use the sandblasting machine you will want to
>pressure test
>the plug before installing it. I've seen spark plugs cleaned with an
>awl...
>Carefully pick out the debris. Definitely not recommended but common
>enough
>to mention.
>
>Noel
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>> Lynn Matteson
>> Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 9:30 PM
>> To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Spark Plugs
>>
>>
>>
>> Kurt-
>> I'm surprised to hear/read you mention spark plug cleaning
>> machines...I've heard for the last 10 years or so, not to use a
>> sandblasting machine for cleaning spark plugs. Are there
>> other cleaning
>> machines that do not use sand? The theory goes that the sand
>> blasts the
>> ceramic/porcelain...whatever...insulator and this is bad for
>> the plug.
>> Maybe somebody else closer to the subject can verify this info.
>>
>> Lynn
>> On Friday, December 8, 2006, at 04:48 PM, kurt schrader wrote:
>>
>> >
>> >
>> > Remember, if you trim plugs this way to make sure that
>> > there are no metal filings left in the plug recesses
>> > to be introduced into the engine. Same when using
>> > spark plug cleaning machines. Those abbrasives can
>> > really tear up a cylinder.
>> >
>> > Kurt S S-5
>> >
>> > --- Fox5flyer <fox5flyer@i-star.com> wrote:
>> >
>> >> Hey guys, I'm not trying to inhibit this thread and
>> >> I know we're all learning a lot about spark plugs
>> >> and that's a good thing, but these plugs aren't
>> >> really all that much of a problem. Just buy the
>> >> correct heat range available at the local auto parts
>> >> house and like Don says, stake the cap on.
>> >> Alternatively, use a drop of locktite to hold it on
>> >> there. As for the ground terminal being too long,
>> >> it's very simple to just gently tap it to the
>> >> correct gap, then use a file or dremel to trim it
>> >> back to the correct length, being sure to avoid
>> >> nicking the electrode. Be sure that the end is flat
>> >> and square with sharp right angles. It only takes a
>> >> few minutes per plug.
>> >> Additionally, I remember that it was said that in
>> >> the winter time people close the gap to the minimum
>> >> to help with easier starts. I'm speaking of the
>> >> 582s here, not the 912 which may be a bit different,
>> >> but I doubt it.
>> >> Deke
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
WebMail Express+ - http://www.i-star.com Internet Access from $7.95
________________________________________________________________________________
Michael, this was a subject on the Aeroelectric list some years ago
and the consensus was that there's no way you can dredge up enough
wattage to produce enough heat to warm the cabin. Better to use the
conventional radiator/fan or exhaust muff. Each has it's pros and
cons. Lots of folks here on the list have come up with some very
inovative ways of heating the cabin.
Sorry I couldn't supply you with something positive. Just trying to
save you some time and expense.
Deke
---- Original Message ----
From: cgod(at)cebridge.net
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List:
Date: Sat, 9 Dec 2006 07:42:02 -0600
>I am planning on installing an inverter behind the seat that will
>connect to a separate battery. From the inverter I will run a small
>electrical heater and mount it under the dash. Does anyone know why
>I should not do this?
>
>Michael
WebMail Express+ - http://www.i-star.com Internet Access from $7.95
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Robertson" <aerocontrols(at)clearwave.ca> |
Lynn,
Thats the word we get from Rotax as well. The ceramic becomes pitted and
can crack due to uneven stresses when heated to 1000+ degreesF.
That's the theory I was given.
regards
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lynn Matteson" <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>
Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 5:59 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Spark Plugs
>
> Kurt-
> I'm surprised to hear/read you mention spark plug cleaning machines...I've
> heard for the last 10 years or so, not to use a sandblasting machine for
> cleaning spark plugs. Are there other cleaning machines that do not use
> sand? The theory goes that the sand blasts the
> ceramic/porcelain...whatever...insulator and this is bad for the plug.
> Maybe somebody else closer to the subject can verify this info.
>
> Lynn
> On Friday, December 8, 2006, at 04:48 PM, kurt schrader wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Remember, if you trim plugs this way to make sure that
>> there are no metal filings left in the plug recesses
>> to be introduced into the engine. Same when using
>> spark plug cleaning machines. Those abbrasives can
>> really tear up a cylinder.
>>
>> Kurt S S-5
>>
>> --- Fox5flyer <fox5flyer@i-star.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hey guys, I'm not trying to inhibit this thread and
>>> I know we're all learning a lot about spark plugs
>>> and that's a good thing, but these plugs aren't
>>> really all that much of a problem. Just buy the
>>> correct heat range available at the local auto parts
>>> house and like Don says, stake the cap on.
>>> Alternatively, use a drop of locktite to hold it on
>>> there. As for the ground terminal being too long,
>>> it's very simple to just gently tap it to the
>>> correct gap, then use a file or dremel to trim it
>>> back to the correct length, being sure to avoid
>>> nicking the electrode. Be sure that the end is flat
>>> and square with sharp right angles. It only takes a
>>> few minutes per plug.
>>> Additionally, I remember that it was said that in
>>> the winter time people close the gap to the minimum
>>> to help with easier starts. I'm speaking of the
>>> 582s here, not the 912 which may be a bit different,
>>> but I doubt it.
>>> Deke
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Smythe" <dosmythe(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: now cabin heat |
I fabricated an alum heat muff to fit around 1/2 the muffler which is held
in place with two large hose clamps. Air comes in (see bottom of cowl
opening in attached pic). A short piece of scat tubing connects back side
of cowl to the input of the heat muff. Another scat tube attaches from the
output of the heat muff to a cockpit controlled door on the firewall.
Don Smythe
----- Original Message -----
From: "fox5flyer" <fox5flyer@i-star.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 09, 2006 11:37 AM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List:
>
>
> Michael, this was a subject on the Aeroelectric list some years ago
> and the consensus was that there's no way you can dredge up enough
> wattage to produce enough heat to warm the cabin. Better to use the
> conventional radiator/fan or exhaust muff. Each has it's pros and
> cons. Lots of folks here on the list have come up with some very
> inovative ways of heating the cabin.
> Sorry I couldn't supply you with something positive. Just trying to
> save you some time and expense.
> Deke
>
> ---- Original Message ----
> From: cgod(at)cebridge.net
> To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Kitfox-List:
> Date: Sat, 9 Dec 2006 07:42:02 -0600
>
>>I am planning on installing an inverter behind the seat that will
>>connect to a separate battery. From the inverter I will run a small
>>electrical heater and mount it under the dash. Does anyone know why
>>I should not do this?
>>
>>Michael
>
>
> WebMail Express+ - http://www.i-star.com Internet Access from $7.95
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ron schick" <roncarolnikko(at)hotmail.com> |
An exhaust muff and scat hose is low tech and low weight by comparison. Far
more BTU's available per pound. The inverter would not increase the power
available from the battery.
Ron NB Ore
>From: "MA Stanard" <cgod(at)cebridge.net>
>Reply-To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Kitfox-List: Date: Sat, 9 Dec 2006 07:42:02 -0600
>
>I am planning on installing an inverter behind the seat that will connect
>to a separate battery. From the inverter I will run a small electrical
>heater and mount it under the dash. Does anyone know why I should not do
>this?
>
>Michael
_________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
I'm running a Jabiru, and they use the NGK D9EA plug, or the Iridium
plug of another number. I haven't run the Iridium yet, as I'm still on
my 2nd set of the number mentioned. The Iridium's are $10 each at my
car dealers, or $8 each at the Jabiru dealer. I'm told they idle
smoother. At $64-80 for a change, I'm gonna think about this for a bit.
My first set of D9EA's lasted for well over 100 hours, and I only
changed them because I wanted to look at them, and had another new set
waiting to go in. I may try the Iridium's down the road a piece.
Lynn
On Saturday, December 9, 2006, at 01:09 AM, kurt schrader wrote:
>
>
> You are right Lynn,
>
> I got rid of my plug cleaning machine many years ago.
> It didn't use sand, but any abrasive can produce
> damage if not thouroughly cleaned out. (Mine
> supposedly didn't harm the ceramic. If I remember
> correctly, it used ceramic chips)
>
> If you are buying aviation plugs at around $10 each
> and 2 per cyl, cleaning them may still make economic
> sense.
>
> And if you modify them a Deke suggests, you need to
> carefully clean out any debris, just like the blasting
> material, as well.
>
> So, the need to clean plugs can still come up and that
> is why I made the suggestion.
>
> Kurt S.
>
> --- Lynn Matteson wrote:
>
>> Kurt-
>> I'm surprised to hear/read you mention spark plug
>> cleaning
>> machines...I've heard for the last 10 years or so,
>> not to use a
>> sandblasting machine for cleaning spark plugs. Are
>> there other cleaning
>> machines that do not use sand? The theory goes that
>> the sand blasts the
>> ceramic/porcelain...whatever...insulator and this is
>> bad for the plug.
>> Maybe somebody else closer to the subject can verify
>> this info.
>>
>> Lynn
>
>
> Any questions? Get answers on any topic at www.Answers.yahoo.com. Try
> it now.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marco Menezes <msm_9949(at)yahoo.com> |
Michael,
"Electric heat" usually is generated by resistance, i.e. current passing thru
an element, heating that until it glows and so hearing the surrounding air. Resistance
heat draws alot of power. I doubt your extra battery can generate enough
power in this way to make a much of a difference in your cabin temperature,
unless of course the resistance element sets fire to your airplane. ;-)
MA Stanard wrote:
I am planning on installing an inverter behind the seat that will connect
to a separate battery. From the inverter I will run a small electrical heater
and mount it under the dash. Does anyone know why I should not do this?
Michael
Marco Menezes
Model 2 582 N99KX
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Builder's Assistance |
List,
I just got word that a friend wants to get involved with builders
assistance. He has a long history in aviation primarily as former owner of
an aviation fastener and specialty tools company. He has built and flown
two Kitfoxes, a Model I and a Model IV. Here is a guy with first hand
knowledge of the earlier Kitfoxes and familiarity with the newer models.
If anyone wants more information, please contact me off list and I will
forward the pertinent information.
Lowell
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tank Sloshing |
| From: | "Colin Durey" <colin(at)ptclhk.com> |
Lowell,
Thank you very much for the detailed response. I'll go with either the
Kreem or the JC Whitnbey product. I'm not sure who handles these products
in Australia, but will investigate. Once again, thanks for your help.
Regads
Colin Durey
Sydney
Lowell Fitt said:
>
> List
>
> I have been running some tests on the alcohol issue. The result is
> preliminary, as it has only been going on since October 1.
>
> FYI, the purpose of the testing is to find a coating for a balsa wood
> float
> used in a low fuel sensor.
>
> The test consists of a series of test tubes with floats coated with
> various
> coatings and separated from the glass walls of the test tubes with a guide
> wire. The guide wire prevents surface tension - floats against the glass
> from masking the floats
> ability to sink in the event it loses buoyancy.
>
> This is the set-up:
>
> Two floats coated with vinyl ester resin.
> Two floats coated with vinyl ester resin that had been mixed in a plastic
> cup attacked by the resin to see if the cup somehow degraded the resin.
> Two floats coated with Kreem
> One float coated with a fuel tank sealer from JC Whitney
>
> One of each float is submerged in our version of California pump fuel
> which
> I have measured as containing 6-7% ethanol. One of each float is
> submerged
> in 97% ethanol (denatured alcohol). The Lone JC Whitney coated float is
> in
> mogas.
>
> For the first two weeks, on a daily basis, I took the floats up to a
> virtual
> 14,000 ft in a
> bell jar to simulate flying to altitude to see if the coatings were
> breaking
> down and allowing the floats to de-gas. since then the altitude test has
> been conducted about weekly.
>
> The result of the tests so far is as follows.
>
> Early on, one of the Kreem coated floats degassed under vacuum suggesting
> a
> breach of the coating. The air bubble was large - 1/16" and was on the
> end
> of the float. Past experience suggests that if the coating fails large
> bubbles from
> the float interior will appear on the surface.
>
> After 30 days, I removed the vinyl ester coated floats from the 97%
> ethanol
> and mogas for observation. The submersion had dulled the surface from
> it's
> original shiny appearance on both floats. The surface looked etched.
> When
> returned to the test tube, They resumed their normal floating
> condition. When I took the floats to the 14,000 ft. altitude, both floats
> began to degass with what seemed to be thousands of microscopic, very
> difficult to see bubbles. I saw no difference in the two mixes of resin.
>
> To date, all Kreem coated floats have retained their luster in both the
> mogas and the alcohol.
>
> Since the early bubble seen on one Kreem Float, no evidence of coating
> breach has been seen on any of the floats when taken to the 14,000 ft.
> pressure in the vacuum chamber.
>
> Discussion:
>
> When brushing on the coating, it is more difficult to get full coverage
> with
> Kreem if there is any oughness or pitting as was sometimes found on the
> end
> grain balsa. This may be due to the very rapid evaporation of the MEK
> thinner.
> Fuel tank coating, I suspect would be more effective as it is a closed
> system and the
> MEK would be in a saturated environment and evaporation would be minimal
> until the tank is vented. The surface of the Kreem retained it's luster
> and
> is intact
> and with the exception of one faulty coating, Kreem seems to have worked
> well
> to date.
>
> The "Gas Tank Sealant" from JC Whitney has reacted identically to the
> Kreem.
> The only difference between the two so far is that Kreem is a little
> yellower in color
> out of the can while the JC Whitney product is snow white,
>
> With the loss of surface luster, I concluded that the vinyl ester resin
> had
> been attacked by the alcohol (fuel) in both solutions and portions had
> been
> dissolved. I am not a chemist, but I think when the resin cures it does
> not result in a homogeneous solid, but is more like a sponge with areas of
> hard resin with interspersed pockets of a more vulnerable material. I
> think
> the softer material dissolved out into the alcohol / fuel. Then when
> dried,
> air diffused into the porous surface and degassed as the pressure in the
> bell jar was reduced. Vinyl ester resins are mixed similarly to polyester
> resins with the use of MEKP and proportioned to determine curing times.
> Small areas of roughness from the brush application were present
> indicating
> that the resin was not being dissolved en masse.
>
>>From this and past list discussions, my present conclusion is if you can
>> get
> the Kreem to stick and fill all the pinholes it is a good surface
> preparation for alcohol resistence.
>
> Lowell
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "colindu" <colin(at)ptcsg.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 9:49 PM
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Tank Sloshing
>
>
>>
>> Hi Folks,
>>
>> I'm about to fabric the wings on our KFIV, so before I do, I'd like to
>> know what the latest reccomendation is for sloshing the tanks,
>> especially
>> with regard to the advent of ethanol. Non-ethanol fuel is standard here,
>> but I'm sure it will develop into an issue sooner rather than later, so
>> I
>> really want to make the right choice now.
>>
>> Any words of wisdom will be most welcome.
>>
>> Regards
>> Colin Durey
>> Sydney
>>
>> --------
>> Colin Durey
>> Sydney
>> +61-418-677073
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p020#80020
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heater Questions |
I would just want to caution any one taking air from behind the radiator for
cabin heat to make sure the exhaust is not part of the mix. I have wanted to
try this myself but have to tape up most of the radiator in winter to keep
the engine temps up.
Mark
Wisconsin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave G." <occom(at)ns.sympatico.ca> |
I have been using the blue nitrile gloves for work with the Hysol and
with mek and such while working with my wings and such. I have found
that they seem to degrade very quickly if I get mek on the fingers. I
have a very heavy set of chemical resistant gloves made of neoprene that
are better but with much less feel. The question is what do you use? I
understand that once I get to the actual "gluing" with Polytak, I will
be getting a bit of this on my fingers and if the nitril gloves that I
wear while working on my bike aren't going to cut it, what will?
As always, please do not reply to the list. occom(at)ns.sympatico.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Daniels <aldaniels(at)fmtcblue.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gloves for Poly |
I use an invisible glove. It is a cream sold by most aircraft supply
places that will protect you from the chemicals, but will wash off with
water.
Dave G. wrote:
> I have been using the blue nitrile gloves for work with the Hysol and
> with mek and such while working with my wings and such. I have found
> that they seem to degrade very quickly if I get mek on the fingers. I
> have a very heavy set of chemical resistant gloves made of neoprene
> that are better but with much less feel. The question is what do you
> use? I understand that once I get to the actual "gluing" with Polytak,
> I will be getting a bit of this on my fingers and if the nitril gloves
> that I wear while working on my bike aren't going to cut it, what will?
>
> As always, please do not reply to the list. occom(at)ns.sympatico.ca
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Thompson" <kr2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: type of fuel |
Hi all,I have done some testing with my fox as far as avgas ,and using
fully synthetic oil on VW,and I do not recomend this type of oil if you are
running avgas due to the lead deposit of 100LL, this is fine if you are
running car fuel.....no lead....What happens is your oil temps go way up
and your oil pressure fall tolow levels.This info was tested by me over 10
hrs off flight time and then verified by Mobile Tech support......I have
found that mobile does make a aircraft grade synthetic oil,but it was
easier to go back to standard 20/50 organic oils.
Sincerely......Mark N61AC
> [Original Message]
> From: Margaret Hastedt <hastedt(at)iodp.tamu.edu>
> To:
> Date: 12/1/2006 10:20:16 PM
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: type of fuel
>
>
> I haven't used anyting BUT avgas in my EA-81 engine. No problems to date,
but with only 45 hours of flight time it's not very conclusive. I haven't
been using any lead scavenging products either. To be continued...
>
> Margaret H.
> Classic IV N3076U
>
> >>> wannaflyfox4(at)hotmail.com 12/1/2006 4:14 PM >>>
>
> I have an EA81 subaru engine and use auto fuel. I want to do a long cross
country and it is not always possible to get auto fuel at all the stops.
Any experience with changing to aviation fuel or mixing the differant types?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=78504#78504
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heater Questions |
| From: | "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike(at)yahoo.com> |
first off, you don't pull air off the strip stream of the exhaust. I have the
912 and the radiator is away from the exhaust. If you are worried about it, put
in a co meter.
I put in my wrap yesterday and wow, what difference. No air in the cockpit at all,
real nice.
--------
kitfoxmike
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p548#80548
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gloves for Poly |
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
I used the invisible gloves...when I remembered...and also some orange
gloves that I got at Gordon Food Service, that said right on the
package that they are impervious to MEK, among other chemicals. They
aren't too thick to work with, I didn't feel....or actually, I DID
feel...pun intended.
Lynn
On Sunday, December 10, 2006, at 11:21 AM, Alan Daniels wrote:
>
>
> I use an invisible glove. It is a cream sold by most aircraft supply
> places that will protect you from the chemicals, but will wash off
> with water.
> Dave G. wrote:
>> I have been using the blue nitrile gloves for work with the Hysol and
>> with mek and such while working with my wings and such. I have found
>> that they seem to degrade very quickly if I get mek on the fingers. I
>> have a very heavy set of chemical resistant gloves made of neoprene
>> that are better but with much less feel. The question is what do you
>> use? I understand that once I get to the actual "gluing" with
>> Polytak, I will be getting a bit of this on my fingers and if the
>> nitril gloves that I wear while working on my bike aren't going to
>> cut it, what will?
>> As always, please do not reply to the list. occom(at)ns.sympatico.ca
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heater Questions |
There is a start up company - HighWing LLC (Yes I am involved) that has a
radiator shutter kit for the Skystar supplied radiator for the 912 series
engines. It is an easy assembly and attached to the radiator with Nylon Tie
wraps. It requires a Button Lock dash control like the A-700 from ACS for
operation.
For other radiators, an exact dimensional drawing with location of the inlet
and outlet accurately depicted and we will make up jigs from that.
Attached - two photos. one installed in a Speedster radiator shroud and one
uninstalled.
If anyone is interested drop an off list note.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: <RRTRACK(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 6:17 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Cabin Heater Questions
>I would just want to caution any one taking air from behind the radiator
>for
> cabin heat to make sure the exhaust is not part of the mix. I have wanted
> to
> try this myself but have to tape up most of the radiator in winter to keep
> the engine temps up.
> Mark
> Wisconsin
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "flier" <flier(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I've also used invisible glove. Works great.
Regards,
Ted
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Alan Daniels
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 10:21 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Gloves for Poly
I use an invisible glove. It is a cream sold by most aircraft supply
places that will protect you from the chemicals, but will wash off with
water.
Dave G. wrote:
> I have been using the blue nitrile gloves for work with the Hysol and
> with mek and such while working with my wings and such. I have found
> that they seem to degrade very quickly if I get mek on the fingers. I
> have a very heavy set of chemical resistant gloves made of neoprene
> that are better but with much less feel. The question is what do you
> use? I understand that once I get to the actual "gluing" with Polytak,
> I will be getting a bit of this on my fingers and if the nitril gloves
> that I wear while working on my bike aren't going to cut it, what will?
>
> As always, please do not reply to the list. occom(at)ns.sympatico.ca
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Steade" <david.steade(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | First Flight G-CDXY |
Just to let everyone know I finally flew my Mk 7 on Saturday 9th
December after 3 1/2 years construction.
Here are some of the details.
100hp Rotax engine
VP 50 in flight variable pitch propeller
830 lbs empty
Take off run about 200 Yards
Rate of climb 1 up 1/3rd fuel 1200 fpm
Rate of climb 2 up 1/2 fuel 900 fpm
Cruise 60 to 70% power 90 knots (4800 rpm at 26 inches manifold)
Max straight and level 102 knots
3 flights total 2 hours
No adjustments needed
Elevator trim very powerful almost no rudder required at any cruise
speed.
Much better than I hoped and a lot different to the Mk3 I had
previously.
Regards
David Steade
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Pearsall" <donpearsall(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | First Flight G-CDXY |
David, congratulations on your first flight! You built a beautiful aircraft.
Thanks for sharing it with us
Don Pearsall
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Steade
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 2:14 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: First Flight G-CDXY
Just to let everyone know I finally flew my Mk 7 on Saturday 9th December
after 3 1/2 years construction.
Here are some of the details.
100hp Rotax engine
VP 50 in flight variable pitch propeller
830 lbs empty
Take off run about 200 Yards
Rate of climb 1 up 1/3rd fuel 1200 fpm
Rate of climb 2 up 1/2 fuel 900 fpm
Cruise 60 to 70% power 90 knots (4800 rpm at 26 inches manifold)
Max straight and level 102 knots
3 flights total 2 hours
No adjustments needed
Elevator trim very powerful almost no rudder required at any cruise speed.
Much better than I hoped and a lot different to the Mk3 I had previously.
Regards
David Steade
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dave" <dave(at)cfisher.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight G-CDXY |
Way to go David !!
----- Original Message -----
From: David Steade
To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 5:13 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: First Flight G-CDXY
Just to let everyone know I finally flew my Mk 7 on Saturday 9th
December after 3 1/2 years construction.
Here are some of the details.
100hp Rotax engine
VP 50 in flight variable pitch propeller
830 lbs empty
Take off run about 200 Yards
Rate of climb 1 up 1/3rd fuel 1200 fpm
Rate of climb 2 up 1/2 fuel 900 fpm
Cruise 60 to 70% power 90 knots (4800 rpm at 26 inches manifold)
Max straight and level 102 knots
3 flights total 2 hours
No adjustments needed
Elevator trim very powerful almost no rudder required at any cruise
speed.
Much better than I hoped and a lot different to the Mk3 I had
previously.
Regards
David Steade
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sjklerks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight G-CDXY |
Nice looking 7 congrats
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dave" <dave(at)cfisher.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heater Questions |
Hey Mike,
You put in a wrap ? what is that ? I assume a heat muff?
I pull heat from my radiator with no exhaust at all but I also havc an
extention on mine as you can see in those videos I posted. But my Heat
muff gives the most heat . I can fly at 0 F and keep cabin temp of over 50
F on cloudy days. Much warmer on sunny days. My record is over 2 hour x
country at - 25 C and never wore gloves entire trip till i landed on Lake
at flyin.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 12:33 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Cabin Heater Questions
>
> first off, you don't pull air off the strip stream of the exhaust. I have
> the 912 and the radiator is away from the exhaust. If you are worried
> about it, put in a co meter.
>
> I put in my wrap yesterday and wow, what difference. No air in the cockpit
> at all, real nice.
>
> --------
> kitfoxmike
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p548#80548
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rex Shaw" <rexjan(at)bigpond.com> |
The 582 is one of the few beasties that has a recommendation to use both
resistor caps and resistor plugs. I had the resistors on a set of plugs
short out once and even with the resistor caps communications line of
sight
with the tower was impossible. If you are carrying a radio I don't
think
the automotive style caps will work.
Noel
Hi ! Noel,
I use non resistor NGK caps from the Auto store and
BR8EIX resistor plugs and I certainly get no problems. My 582 Blue Head
motor runs sweet and same with my communications. An Icom A20 MKII
mounted on the panel with external antenna and power from the plane via
a Pi filter circuit I made.
If you had trouble with say a resistor in a plug shorting out then I
can well imagine the resistor caps are not going to cover this problem.
Rex.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rex Shaw" <rexjan(at)bigpond.com> |
I am planning on installing an inverter behind the seat that will
connect to a separate battery. From the inverter I will run a small
electrical heater and mount it under the dash. Does anyone know why
I should not do this?
Michael
Hi ! Michael,
You can't get enough heat this way at least
without flattening the battery real quick indeed. Let's say you use a
500 watt heater. I can't see where you are going to find smaller and I
think you would need that anyway. So that 500 watt heater will actually
draw more than that out of the battery and the total output of your
charging system is probably only 170 watts and you need some of that for
other things plus you would not want to run your charging system flat
out all the time. Did you realise it works out to power a 500 watt
heater you need to draw about 45 Amps ?
Sorry you will need to use a heat muff or water.
Rex.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "crazyivan" <dmivezic(at)yahoo.com> |
Too heavy and it brings your cg aft.
A heater core with a small fan or a heat muff off of your exhaust are lighter but
a little more complicated to install.
--------
Dave
Speedster 912 UL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p702#80702
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jdmcbean" <jdmcbean(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | First Flight G-CDXY |
Congrats David !!!
Fly Safe !!
John & Debra McBean
208.337.5111
www.kitfoxaircraft.com
"It's not how Fast... It's how Fun!"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of David Steade
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 3:14 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: First Flight G-CDXY
Just to let everyone know I finally flew my Mk 7 on Saturday 9th December
after 3 1/2 years construction.
Here are some of the details.
100hp Rotax engine
VP 50 in flight variable pitch propeller
830 lbs empty
Take off run about 200 Yards
Rate of climb 1 up 1/3rd fuel 1200 fpm
Rate of climb 2 up 1/2 fuel 900 fpm
Cruise 60 to 70% power 90 knots (4800 rpm at 26 inches manifold)
Max straight and level 102 knots
3 flights total 2 hours
No adjustments needed
Elevator trim very powerful almost no rudder required at any cruise speed.
Much better than I hoped and a lot different to the Mk3 I had previously.
Regards
David Steade
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rexinator <rexinator(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: - SKI FLYING Video now on youtube |
Looks like fun was had by all. Nice!
(might I suggest that a monopod camera support would help reduce
telephoto camera shake?)
Last night the Discovery channel had programs about dangerous jobs in
Alaska and one was Bush Pilot. Some interesting videos there as well.
Rex
Colorado
M2/582 - wing under repair
dave wrote:
>
> Hi guys,
>
> I added a link here http://www.cfisher.com/kitfox/ for you tube as
> well.
> resolution is not as good and it smaller but hopefully if any had
> troubles viewing before like Lynn ,
> this might help.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heater Questions |
| From: | "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike(at)yahoo.com> |
No, much better. You can't have heat inside unless you can keep it in. You remove
the cowls, get some plastic, I used the stuff you buy for your home windows,
it comes in a roll and has a backing, thick stuff. Next you wrap between
the windscreen and the firewall, I taped mine at the edges with clear duct tape
and then use a razor blade and x'd the openings for the cam locks, sealed all
the air leaks I was getting. Then you put the cowls back on, nobody can see
the plastic, but you know it's there.
--------
kitfoxmike
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p745#80745
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike(at)yahoo.com> |
Ok Dave you asked for it [Twisted Evil] , now you say that my heat system has the
risk of co in the cabin, first off it pulls from the right side of the radiator,
and only the right 4 inches. I channel it right in through the hole for
the bungee's in the floor. Now, before I had spring gear I had the bungee gear,
guess what, the holes in the floor where open, guess what else, in the summer
time I had to close that area up as much as possible, why because I would get
a bunch of heat from the radiator and would push up through the floor. Now
you can't tell me with your concern that you now should have a concern for co
entering your airplane, I saw your video and you have spring gear. Also, the
old spring gear had a problem from exhaust hitting the leg going from the center
of the plane to the wheel, that's what caused most of that gears problem,
I can see it hitting the leg and shooting up into the little hole for the bungees.
I would be concerned for your situation when it comes to the exhaust as
well. [Wink]
--------
kitfoxmike
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p756#80756
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight G-CDXY |
David,
Very nice! congratulations.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Steade" <david.steade(at)btinternet.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 2:13 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: First Flight G-CDXY
Just to let everyone know I finally flew my Mk 7 on Saturday 9th December
after 3 1/2 years construction.
Here are some of the details.
100hp Rotax engine
VP 50 in flight variable pitch propeller
830 lbs empty
Take off run about 200 Yards
Rate of climb 1 up 1/3rd fuel 1200 fpm
Rate of climb 2 up 1/2 fuel 900 fpm
Cruise 60 to 70% power 90 knots (4800 rpm at 26 inches manifold)
Max straight and level 102 knots
3 flights total 2 hours
No adjustments needed
Elevator trim very powerful almost no rudder required at any cruise speed.
Much better than I hoped and a lot different to the Mk3 I had previously.
Regards
David Steade
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New - SKI FLYING Video |
| From: | "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike(at)yahoo.com> |
Dave,
thanks for posting the video, I always wondered what a slip to landing looked like
in the fox. Now I know, it looks real cool 8) . I myself do it all the time
and have had people say it looked real cool. But, I never saw it myself.
--------
kitfoxmike
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p768#80768
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dave" <dave(at)cfisher.com> |
I have a piece of alum bent at about 90 deg in front on bungees to deflect,
fumes heat etc and protect the bungees from the same.
I have a scoop on backside of rad and it works gear -- no fumes but Carbon
monoxide it odourless.
Heat Muff on muffler is the best heat aquiring mod you can make in my
findings. Although a fellow on this list Jim from Belle River Ontario that
I have met a few times at flyins has a oil cooler plumbed in his coolant I
think and he says it works great . It is mounted over top of runner pedals .
He could probably tell you better on the performance of it. He has little
fans on it too. BTW His Kitfox IV is "pristine" and with 912 weighs at
about 600 lbs- so you know it a rocket !
I have very minimal airleaks as I have sealed up some like you have.
What dave are you talking to ? >> I saw your video and you have spring
gear. <<
Too many Daves LOL
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 10:17 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Heater
>
> Ok Dave you asked for it [Twisted Evil] , now you say that my heat system
> has the risk of co in the cabin, first off it pulls from the right side of
> the radiator, and only the right 4 inches. I channel it right in through
> the hole for the bungee's in the floor. Now, before I had spring gear I
> had the bungee gear, guess what, the holes in the floor where open, guess
> what else, in the summer time I had to close that area up as much as
> possible, why because I would get a bunch of heat from the radiator and
> would push up through the floor. Now you can't tell me with your concern
> that you now should have a concern for co entering your airplane, I saw
> your video and you have spring gear. Also, the old spring gear had a
> problem from exhaust hitting the leg going from the center of the plane to
> the wheel, that's what caused most of that gears problem, I can see it
> hitting the leg and shooting up into the little hole for the bungees. I
> would be concerned for your situation when i!
> t comes to the exhaust as well. [Wink]
>
> --------
> kitfoxmike
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p756#80756
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
Maybe Dave did what I did...I covered the bungee holes while I was
covering my plane, because I had already made up my mind to go spring
gear.
Lynn
On Monday, December 11, 2006, at 10:17 AM, kitfoxmike wrote:
>
> Ok Dave you asked for it [Twisted Evil] , now you say that my heat
> system has the risk of co in the cabin, first off it pulls from the
> right side of the radiator, and only the right 4 inches. I channel it
> right in through the hole for the bungee's in the floor. Now, before
> I had spring gear I had the bungee gear, guess what, the holes in the
> floor where open, guess what else, in the summer time I had to close
> that area up as much as possible, why because I would get a bunch of
> heat from the radiator and would push up through the floor. Now you
> can't tell me with your concern that you now should have a concern for
> co entering your airplane, I saw your video and you have spring gear.
> Also, the old spring gear had a problem from exhaust hitting the leg
> going from the center of the plane to the wheel, that's what caused
> most of that gears problem, I can see it hitting the leg and shooting
> up into the little hole for the bungees. I would be concerned for
> your situation when i!
> t comes to the exhaust as well. [Wink]
>
> --------
> kitfoxmike
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p756#80756
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike(at)yahoo.com> |
I guess I was refering to Dave with the ski video. Yup, to many Dave's.
I would say the best thing to do is invest in a co meter, than you don't have to
guess about it.
--------
kitfoxmike
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p813#80813
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dave" <dave(at)cfisher.com> |
I am the Ski video guy but I have tube gear ?
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 12:31 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Heater
>
> I guess I was refering to Dave with the ski video. Yup, to many Dave's.
> I would say the best thing to do is invest in a co meter, than you don't
> have to guess about it.
>
> --------
> kitfoxmike
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p813#80813
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marco Menezes <msm_9949(at)yahoo.com> |
Dave,
Could you publish some pictures of your heat muff installation? Also, anyone
else who has used similar technique with a 582 exhaust system.
dave wrote:
I have a piece of alum bent at about 90 deg in front on bungees to deflect,
fumes heat etc and protect the bungees from the same.
I have a scoop on backside of rad and it works gear -- no fumes but Carbon
monoxide it odourless.
Heat Muff on muffler is the best heat aquiring mod you can make in my
findings. Although a fellow on this list Jim from Belle River Ontario that
I have met a few times at flyins has a oil cooler plumbed in his coolant I
think and he says it works great . It is mounted over top of runner pedals .
He could probably tell you better on the performance of it. He has little
fans on it too. BTW His Kitfox IV is "pristine" and with 912 weighs at
about 600 lbs- so you know it a rocket !
I have very minimal airleaks as I have sealed up some like you have.
What dave are you talking to ? >> I saw your video and you have spring
gear. <<
Too many Daves LOL
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "kitfoxmike"
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 10:17 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Heater
>
> Ok Dave you asked for it [Twisted Evil] , now you say that my heat system
> has the risk of co in the cabin, first off it pulls from the right side of
> the radiator, and only the right 4 inches. I channel it right in through
> the hole for the bungee's in the floor. Now, before I had spring gear I
> had the bungee gear, guess what, the holes in the floor where open, guess
> what else, in the summer time I had to close that area up as much as
> possible, why because I would get a bunch of heat from the radiator and
> would push up through the floor. Now you can't tell me with your concern
> that you now should have a concern for co entering your airplane, I saw
> your video and you have spring gear. Also, the old spring gear had a
> problem from exhaust hitting the leg going from the center of the plane to
> the wheel, that's what caused most of that gears problem, I can see it
> hitting the leg and shooting up into the little hole for the bungees. I
> would be concerned for your situation when i!
> t comes to the exhaust as well. [Wink]
>
> --------
> kitfoxmike
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p756#80756
>
>
>
Marco Menezes
Model 2 582 N99KX
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Seehafer" <av8rps(at)tznet.com> |
| Subject: | Cabin Heater Questions |
Nick,
In response to your earlier question about cabin heat, I installed a heater
core with a fan controlled by an automotive water shutoff valve in my 912ul
Model IV-1200. It works good as long as you keep your CHT's around 200
degrees, and keep the cabin well sealed. I don't have any photos convenient
but would be happy to take some if you'd like to see more of the
installation.
BUT if it were me, I'd utilize the carb heat muff before going through all
the bother with the heater core setup. It would be easier to do, less
expensive, lighter, and most likely provide even better heat than the heater
core setup. But I doubt using the carb heat system as it is (by letting the
hot air just rise up into a scat tube that would go to the cabin) would
provide very little heat. So here's what I think one needs to do to create a
very good heat system using just the existing carb heat muff;
I haven't done it yet on my airplane (I too have the removed carb heat setup
you do), but my plan is to use the old carb heat muff off the left front
exhaust header by attaching a scat tube to the top of it and then attaching
it near the gearbox inside the cowl so it gets a direct prop blast of
pressurized air. I'd then fabricate from a piece of aluminum or stainless a
four or five inch extension to the bottom of the muff, with a round outlet
on it to attach a piece of scat tubing that will then go to a controllable
firewall heater air valve. End result, a simple, light, inexpensive cabin
heat system that is controllable from the instrument panel. I'm confident
this setup will provide very good heat, as a Rans I fly has a similar setup
and it gets very warm. The exhaust temps coming right off that cylinder
head should be nice and toasty. Plus, with no welds anywhere in the area,
there is much less risk of exhaust fumes in the cabin. BTW, don't forget to
stuff the heat muff with some good stainless or brass scouring pads. They
retain heat and slow down the air movement, providing significantly more
heat than a system without any.
If after that I find that I need (or maybe just want) even more cabin heat,
I would then make a heat muff to fit around my muffler, and connect the carb
heat muff scat tube to that. Then run two short scat tubes to airboxes on
the firewall (so you now have two controllable heat vents. Your wife will
love it....) You will probably want to play with scouring pad use in this
system, as you shouldn't slow down the air so much that you cause excessive
exhaust pipe temps. (I'm going to guess you could just remove the pads from
the header pipe muff, but keeping them in the muffler muff. You will
essentially have preheated air entering the muffler, and being heated again
before entering the cabin). This double heat muff system should allow you
to fly in the coldest of conditions.
And then if all else fails, install that heater core system as well for a
"three heat system". But bear in mind, should your heater ever fail in a
full heat mode, you had better be ready to fly home naked :-) You will
have one hot cabin!
I've attached a quick drawing I did that should make this all more
understandable, hopefully.
Paul Seehafer
Central Wisconsin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike(at)yahoo.com> |
Ooops, I had spring on the brain. everywhere I put spring gear twards the end
of the message, replace with tubegear. I meant to say the tube gear will have
problems with the exhaust going up the bungee's and you have the tube gear. :?
--------
kitfoxmike
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p832#80832
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heater Questions |
| From: | "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike(at)yahoo.com> |
I thought the same idea, but instead of pulling air from the outside, plumb air
from the inside and put a little fan from a computer into the hose to bring you
air, that way it can get hot faster and better. just my thought on the inlet
air.
--------
kitfoxmike
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p833#80833
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vixen: Fuel Gauge Leak.. and Clear Fuel Line Recommendation |
| From: | "FlyboyTR" <flyboytr(at)bellsouth.net> |
Maxwell,
My IO-240 had approximately 260 hours. My rebuilt alternator drive coupling arrived
yesterday...plan to install today and hopefully have the engine back on
the frame before I leave the airport.
Travis
--------
Travis Rayner
Mobile, AL
Skystar Vixen
N-789DF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=81004#81004
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marco Menezes <msm_9949(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Advice on fuel system upgrades |
Listers:
I've just ordered a HacMan unit from Greensky Adventures and a Facet fuel pump
from ACS (as back-up to Mikuni pump). Does anyone have advice on installation,
operation of these units in context of Rotax 582-90 fuel system?
A plumbing diagram for the Facet as a back-up would be really useful. Thanks
in advance.
Marco Menezes
Model 2 582 N99KX
---------------------------------
Have a burning question? Go to Yahoo! Answers and get answers from real people
who know.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New - SKI FLYING Video |
| From: | "ramrod25" <r_wren(at)wfec.com> |
Dave - I also want to add my thanks to you for your awesome videos. While I sit
here in this office it is just so enjoyable to fire up the video and watch all
the fun you are having.
Keep 'em coming - they are really neat.
--------
Regards,
Rodney Wren
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=81046#81046
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Guy Buchanan <bnn(at)nethere.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Advice on fuel system upgrades |
At 08:32 AM 12/12/2006, you wrote:
>I've just ordered a HacMan unit from Greensky Adventures and a Facet fuel
>pump from ACS (as back-up to Mikuni pump). Does anyone have advice on
>installation, operation of these units in context of Rotax 582-90 fuel system?
I can't help you with the Facet pump, but I use the HACman and like it. I
installed it per the instructions with few modifications and it works well.
I exchanged their awful black tube wrapping for a plastic braided sock that
looked a lot nicer. I also used an EPM.AV firewall fitting with a long
piece of fire-sleeve on the firewall side to help preclude an engine fire
entering the cabin after melting the vent tubing.
The only thing I can add that's not in the instructions is that when I'm
flying I typically go full rich before any significant descent. I then
descend at the angle I want and set the RPM's for 5800. I vary the angle of
descent and RPM to get an EGT of 1200. If I get too steep, the EGT gets too
high, even at 5800 RPM, (over-driving the engine,) so I pull it up, (slow
down,) until the EGT's get back below 1200. (My EIS gives me a warning at
1200 so the EGT's never get over about 1210F.) If I want to descend steeper
I drop the RPM way down. (You have to watch the cold seizure then.)
>
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Steade" <david.steade(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight G-CDXY |
Michel
There is much more inertia with the Mk7 due to the increased weight this
makes it more stable. The simplified mixer for the flaperons together
with the differential movement results in less rudder input than on the
Mk3 and a lot more feel.
My Mk3 had a 582 so the increase in power with the 912S is very
noticeable with a significant increase in cruise speed and climb rate.
There are lots of small changes that have added to the comfort. Good
heater, no drafts from the doors, somewhere to put the coat and bags, a
bit more width in the cockpit all in all quite a different aircraft.
In the UK there is only one other Mk7 flying with two more being built,
most of the Kitfox fleet of about 50 aircraft are Mk2 and 3 versions
with a handful of Mk1 and 4 and just one Mk5.
Regards
David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cotter" <jcotter(at)siu.edu> |
| Subject: | Model 4 headroom clearance |
Hi folks,
I am considering purchase of a model 4 in need of some work. My concern
is
there seemed to be very little, perhaps only one half inch, of clearance
between my head and the primary structure directly above. I am 5=928
=BD=92=92 tall
(a giant by no means). It seemed like a little turbulence could be a
problem with head banging. The gentleman who owns the aircraft is a
couple
of inches shorter than I, so it could have been a non-issue. I did not
see
any extra padding under the stock seats pads. Ideas, comments, or
design
information appreciated.
Thanks
john
John D. Cotter, Interim Chair
SIUC Department of Aviation Technologies
(618) 536 3371
jcotter(at)siu.edu
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "flier" <FLIER(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Model 4 headroom clearance |
Hey John,
Unless the plane has unusually thick cushions or a
non-standard seat you shouldn't have any problem.
I'm 5-11" and my dad and brother are 6-2" (they ARE
pretty big) and we fit. It's cozy but not
uncomfortable.
I've never banged my head on the skylight.
Regards,
Ted
IV-2000 962TC
--- Original Message ---
From: "John Cotter" <jcotter(at)siu.edu>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Model 4 headroom clearance
>Hi folks,
>
>
>
>I am considering purchase of a model 4 in need of
some work. My concern
>is
>there seemed to be very little, perhaps only one
half inch, of clearance
>between my head and the primary structure directly
above. I am 5=928
>=BD=92=92 tall
>(a giant by no means). It seemed like a little
turbulence could be a
>problem with head banging. The gentleman who owns
the aircraft is a
>couple
>of inches shorter than I, so it could have been a
non-issue. I did not
>see
>any extra padding under the stock seats pads.
Ideas, comments, or
>design
>information appreciated.
>
>
>
>Thanks
>
>john
>
>
>
>John D. Cotter, Interim Chair
>
>SIUC Department of Aviation Technologies
>
>(618) 536 3371
>
>jcotter(at)siu.edu
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jeff puls" <pulsair(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Model 4 headroom clearance |
John,
I am 6'4" and fly a Kitfox Classic IV with Skystar cushions. I am quite
comfortable. But you have to remember, I flew a Hughes 300C on police
patrol for 5,000 hours. I find a lot of dropped coins on the sidewalk.
Jeff Columbus, Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: John Cotter
To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2006 4:09 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Model 4 headroom clearance
Hi folks,
I am considering purchase of a model 4 in need of some work. My
concern is there seemed to be very little, perhaps only one half inch,
of clearance between my head and the primary structure directly above.
I am 5'8 =BD'' tall (a giant by no means). It seemed like a little
turbulence could be a problem with head banging. The gentleman who owns
the aircraft is a couple of inches shorter than I, so it could have been
a non-issue. I did not see any extra padding under the stock seats
pads. Ideas, comments, or design information appreciated.
Thanks
john
John D. Cotter, Interim Chair
SIUC Department of Aviation Technologies
(618) 536 3371
jcotter(at)siu.edu
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Model 4 headroom clearance |
| From: | "dcsfoto" <david(at)kelm.com> |
I have a Model III ,5'10 and no problems
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=81137#81137
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Smythe" <dosmythe(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Advice on fuel system upgrades |
We had a discussion long time ago about the Facet Backup on a 582.
About the only thing that can go wrong with the standard Rotax pulse
pump is 1. The pulse line ruptures causing the pump to become
inoperative. 2. The internal diagram of the pump ruptures causing the
pump to stop pumping. In the case of #2, if you turn on the backup
Facet, the fuel will be pumped into the Rotax pump and then through the
ruptured diaphragm and into the crankcase. In this case, a backup will
do you no good what-so-ever. In the case of #1, if you turn on the
backup, the fuel will also be pumped out the ruptured pulse line and all
over the engine. Still not good. Are there any new opinions on this
possible situation?
Don Smythe
----- Original Message -----
From: Marco Menezes
To: Matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2006 11:32 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Advice on fuel system upgrades
Listers:
I've just ordered a HacMan unit from Greensky Adventures and a Facet
fuel pump from ACS (as back-up to Mikuni pump). Does anyone have advice
on installation, operation of these units in context of Rotax 582-90
fuel system?
A plumbing diagram for the Facet as a back-up would be really useful.
Thanks in advance.
Marco Menezes
Model 2 582 N99KX
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Have a burning question? Go to Yahoo! Answers and get answers from
real people who know.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | Advice on fuel system upgrades |
One way valves ( out) on both pumps and then plumb them in parallel.
Takes
care of all the problems you stated.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don Smythe
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2006 9:04 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Advice on fuel system upgrades
We had a discussion long time ago about the Facet Backup on a 582.
About
the only thing that can go wrong with the standard Rotax pulse pump is
1.
The pulse line ruptures causing the pump to become inoperative. 2. The
internal diagram of the pump ruptures causing the pump to stop pumping.
In
the case of #2, if you turn on the backup Facet, the fuel will be pumped
into the Rotax pump and then through the ruptured diaphragm and into the
crankcase. In this case, a backup will do you no good what-so-ever. In
the
case of #1, if you turn on the backup, the fuel will also be pumped out
the
ruptured pulse line and all over the engine. Still not good. Are there
any
new opinions on this possible situation?
Don Smythe
----- Original Message -----
From: Marco <mailto:msm_9949(at)yahoo.com> Menezes
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2006 11:32 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Advice on fuel system upgrades
Listers:
I've just ordered a HacMan unit from Greensky Adventures and a Facet
fuel
pump from ACS (as back-up to Mikuni pump). Does anyone have advice on
installation, operation of these units in context of Rotax 582-90 fuel
system?
A plumbing diagram for the Facet as a back-up would be really useful.
Thanks
in advance.
Marco Menezes
Model 2 582 N99KX
_____
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href
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List">http://www.matron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "john perry" <eskflyer(at)lvcisp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Advice on fuel system upgrades |
Don
I totally agree with you on the fuel pump , and the problems it can
cause. I rebuild my mikuni pump every 2 years and have never had a
problem . it only cost $ 11 . to rebuild . Also replace the pulse line .
Would be easy to this even every year at condition inspection time .
takes little time and would really be worth the trouble .
Just my humble opinion
John Perry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dave" <dave(at)cfisher.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heater as requested |
Hi Marco, Sorry I was lazy and just stuck a camera in the cowl.
but here you go http://www.cfisher.com/heatmuff/
Hope that helps you and yes that is carsb heat that works too.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: Marco Menezes
To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 1:08 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Heater
Dave,
Could you publish some pictures of your heat muff installation? Also,
anyone else who has used similar technique with a 582 exhaust system.
dave wrote:
I have a piece of alum bent at about 90 deg in front on bungees to
deflect,
fumes heat etc and protect the bungees from the same.
I have a scoop on backside of rad and it works gear -- no fumes but
Carbon
monoxide it odourless.
Heat Muff on muffler is the best heat aquiring mod you can make in
my
findings. Although a fellow on this list Jim from Belle River
Ontario that
I have met a few times at flyins has a oil cooler plumbed in his
coolant I
think and he says it works great . It is mounted over top of runner
pedals .
He could probably tell you better on the performance of it. He has
little
fans on it too. BTW His Kitfox IV is "pristine" and with 912 weighs
at
about 600 lbs- so you know it a rocket !
I have very minimal airleaks as I have sealed up some like you have.
What dave are you talking to ? >> I saw your video and you have
spring
gear. <<
Too many Daves LOL
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "kitfoxmike"
To:
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 10:17 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Heater
>
> Ok Dave you asked for it [Twisted Evil] , now you say that my heat
system
> has the risk of co in the cabin, first off it pulls from the right
side of
> the radiator, and only the right 4 inches. I channel it right in
through
> the hole for the bungee's in the floor. Now, before I had spring
gear I
> had the bungee gear, guess what, the holes in the floor where
open, guess
> what else, in the summer time I had to close that area up as much
as
> possible, why because I would get a bunch of heat from the
radiator and
> would push up through the floor. Now you can't tell me with your
concern
> that you now should have a concern for co entering your airplane,
I saw
> your video and you have spring gear. Also, the old spring gear had
a
> problem from exhaust hitting the leg going from the center of the
plane to
> the wheel, that's what caused most of that gears problem, I can
see it
> hitting the leg and shooting up into the little hole for the
bungees. I
> would be concerned for your situation when i!
> t comes to the exhaust as well. [Wink]
>
> --------
> kitfoxmike
>
>
>
>
> Read
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dave" <dave(at)cfisher.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Model 4 headroom clearance |
You should be fine as I am 5' 9" and no issues.
If you in turbulence tighten your harness :)
Better yet -- take a Kitfox fora flight or snag a ride in one.
Where are you located?
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: John Cotter
To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2006 4:09 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Model 4 headroom clearance
Hi folks,
I am considering purchase of a model 4 in need of some work. My
concern is there seemed to be very little, perhaps only one half inch,
of clearance between my head and the primary structure directly above.
I am 5'8 =BD'' tall (a giant by no means). It seemed like a little
turbulence could be a problem with head banging. The gentleman who owns
the aircraft is a couple of inches shorter than I, so it could have been
a non-issue. I did not see any extra padding under the stock seats
pads. Ideas, comments, or design information appreciated.
Thanks
john
John D. Cotter, Interim Chair
SIUC Department of Aviation Technologies
(618) 536 3371
jcotter(at)siu.edu
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kirk hull" <kirkhull(at)kc.rr.com> |
I am flying a classic 4 with a suberu engine and all of the speedster mods
except the shorter wing. I was thinking about testing for a gross weight of
1250 and was wandering if anybody has had problems operating over 1200?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rex Shaw" <rexjan(at)bigpond.com> |
I am considering purchase of a model 4 in need of some work. My concern
is
there seemed to be very little, perhaps only one half inch, of clearance
between my head and the primary structure directly above. I am 5=928
=BD=92=92 tall
(a giant by no means). It seemed like a little turbulence could be a
problem with head banging. The gentleman who owns the aircraft is a
couple
of inches shorter than I, so it could have been a non-issue. I did not
see
any extra padding under the stock seats pads. Ideas, comments, or
design
information appreciated.
John,
I have a Model IV and am 6'2" and I can't remember hitting my
head yet.
Rex.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rex Shaw" <rexjan(at)bigpond.com> |
I've just ordered a HacMan unit from Greensky Adventures and a Facet
fuel pump
from ACS (as back-up to Mikuni pump). Does anyone have advice on
installation,
operation of these units in context of Rotax 582-90 fuel system?
A plumbing diagram for the Facet as a back-up would be really useful.
Thanks
in advance.
Just keep in mind with pumps in series, pressures are additive. Can your
needle valves handle this if you do this ?
Rex.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Smythe" <dosmythe(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Advice on fuel system upgrades |
MessageSee drawing if this is what you are saying about check valves on
each pump. This might help in the case of a ruptured pulse line but
would not do you any good with a ruptured diaphragm in the Mik pump.
Follow the dark fuel line from the header to the crankcase. Raw fuel
will pass straight to the crankcase with a ruptured Mik. You would have
to isolate the input to the Mik but would probably be too late after
discovery.
Don Smythe
----- Original Message -----
From: Noel Loveys
To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2006 9:10 PM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Advice on fuel system upgrades
One way valves ( out) on both pumps and then plumb them in parallel.
Takes care of all the problems you stated.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | W Duke <n981ms(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vixen: Fuel Gauge Leak.. and Clear Fuel Line Recommendation |
Thanks,
If I remember the recomendation was to inspect every 500 hours of operation.
I was thinking that by the time I remove the engine to inspect that I would
just go ahead and have the thing rebuilt. But the cost is pretty steep. I
have also considered the possibility of working out some sort of belt drive auto
alternator on the front of the engine. I guess I will keep my fingers crossed
until inspection time.
Thanks again,
Maxwell S6/TD/IO240
FlyboyTR wrote:
Maxwell,
My IO-240 had approximately 260 hours. My rebuilt alternator drive coupling arrived
yesterday...plan to install today and hopefully have the engine back on the
frame before I leave the airport.
Travis
--------
Travis Rayner
Mobile, AL
Skystar Vixen
N-789DF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=81004#81004
---------------------------------
Any questions? Get answers on any topic at Yahoo! Answers. Try it now.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Guy Buchanan <bnn(at)nethere.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Model 4 headroom clearance |
At 01:09 PM 12/12/2006, you wrote:
>My concern is there seemed to be very little, perhaps only one half inch,
>of clearance between my head and the primary structure directly above. I
>am 58 tall (a giant by no means). It seemed like a little turbulence
>could be a problem with head banging.
I'm a little over 6' and I only occasionally bang my head on the skylight.
(Mind you this was "extreme" turbulence.) In normal flight I keep my lap
belt tight and have no problems. I have also put tubing insulation on a
couple of the internal struts so I don't even notice those bumps. Note that
I wear a headset and have 3" seat padding too. At 5' 8" you should have no
problem.
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Guy Buchanan <bnn(at)nethere.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Advice on fuel system upgrades |
At 04:33 PM 12/12/2006, you wrote:
>Still not good. Are there any new opinions on this possible situation?
I had a friend at the airport once claim that he had repeatedly suffered
vapor lock in his fuel system in a 582 K-IV. He installed a Facet in series
to cure it. His was the only occurrence of 582 vapor lock I could find.
I'm torn on the question of single-failure-tolerance. The only thing in a
typical 582 installation that's single failure tolerant is the ignition
system, and even that relies on a "single" stator for excitation. You could
call the carbs and cylinders redundant, but you're not going to get very
far on one cylinder. Everything else: gearbox, crank, bearings, rotary
valve, cooling, oil injection, exhaust, charging, and finally fuel pump, is
catastrophic. Realistically, if you demand single-failure-tolerance you
have to fly behind a well designed twin. Otherwise you are relying on
component and system reliability. We foolish pilots typically only demand
redundancy for components that have a history of failing. The Mikuni pump
appears to have a failure rate at least as good as the rest of the 582,
which I grant you isn't saying much.
I guess the ideal replacement might be to get rid of the Mikuni and go to
dual Facet's in series. Unfortunately that adds so much system complexity
over the Mikuni that I hesitate to declare it significantly better. (Four
connections, two check valves, two pumps, two electrical supplies, two
switches, electrical requirement, two fuses, probably a fuel pressure gauge
with all the attendant plumbing, manual operation including the possibility
of flooding or forgetting to turn one on. You get the idea.) I decided that
I would meticulously over-maintain the Mikuni and rely on its simplicity
and autonomy for reliability.
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <michaelgibbs(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: gross weight |
Kirk asked:
> I was thinking about testing for a gross weight of 1250 and was
> wandering if anybody has had problems operating over 1200?
I told the FAA my Model IV-1200 Speedster had a maximum gross weight of 1232 and
they never questioned it. The insurance company didn't question it after my
accident, either (and yes, they checked all my documentation carefully). The
examiner does have considerable discretion, though, so your mileage may vary.
Mike G.
N728KF
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: gross weight |
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
I've got 'em all (speedster mods) including the short wings, and I flew
16 lbs over (full gas and a heavy friend : )), and there was no
problem...a bit longer TO roll, but no problem. DISCLAIMER: As I often
leave my house unlocked, and my computer on, anybody could have written
this...that's for the FAA in case they're listening/lurking. : )
Lynn
p.s. Jabiru 85 horse engine with cruise prop
On Tuesday, December 12, 2006, at 10:53 PM, kirk hull wrote:
> I am flying a classic 4 with a suberu engine and all of the speedster
> mods except the shorter wing. I was thinking about testing for a gross
> weight of 1250 and was wandering if anybody has had problems operating
> over 1200?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jim <jimrody(at)WI.RR.COM> |
Dear Abby, I've never written to you before, but I really need your
advice on what could be a crucial decision. I've suspected for some time
now that my wife has been cheating on me. The usual signs... phone rings
but if I answer, the caller hangs up. My wife has been going out with
the girls a lot recently although when I ask their names she always
says, "Just some friends from work, you don't know them." I always stay
awake to look out for her taxi coming home, but she always walks down
the drive. Although I can hear a car driving off, as if she has gotten
out of the car round the corner. Why? Maybe she wasn't in a taxi? I once
picked her cell phone up just to see what time it was and she went
berserk and screamed that I should never touch her phone again and why
was I checking up on her. Anyway, I have never approached the subject
with my wife. I think deep down I just didn't want to know the truth,
but last night she went out again and I decided to really check on her.
I decided to park my Kitfox trailer next to the garage and then hide
behind it so I could get a good view of the whole street when she came
home. It was at that dreadful moment, crouching behind my plane, that I
noticed a large area of de-lamination of poly-fiber on my lower
elevator. Is this something I can fix myself with my Technical Counselor
or should I take it to a A&P?
Thanks, Jim
Happy Holidays
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marco Menezes <msm_9949(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heater as requested |
Thanks Dave. That's about what I saw in my "mind's eye" when you described it.
One question: How do you shut it off in the Summer?
dave wrote: Hi Marco, Sorry I was lazy and just stuck
a camera in the cowl.
but here you go http://www.cfisher.com/heatmuff/
Hope that helps you and yes that is carsb heat that works too.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: Marco Menezes
To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 1:08 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Heater
Dave,
Could you publish some pictures of your heat muff installation? Also, anyone
else who has used similar technique with a 582 exhaust system.
dave wrote:
I have a piece of alum bent at about 90 deg in front on bungees to deflect,
fumes heat etc and protect the bungees from the same.
I have a scoop on backside of rad and it works gear -- no fumes but Carbon
monoxide it odourless.
Heat Muff on muffler is the best heat aquiring mod you can make in my
findings. Although a fellow on this list Jim from Belle River Ontario that
I have met a few times at flyins has a oil cooler plumbed in his coolant I
think and he says it works great . It is mounted over top of runner pedals .
He could probably tell you better on the performance of it. He has little
fans on it too. BTW His Kitfox IV is "pristine" and with 912 weighs at
about 600 lbs- so you know it a rocket !
I have very minimal airleaks as I have sealed up some like you have.
What dave are you talking to ? >> I saw your video and you have spring
gear. <<
Too many Daves LOL
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "kitfoxmike"
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 10:17 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Heater
>
> Ok Dave you asked for it [Twisted Evil] , now you say that my heat system
> has the risk of co in the cabin, first off it pulls from the right side of
> the radiator, and only the right 4 inches. I channel it right in through
> the hole for the bungee's in the floor. Now, before I had spring gear I
> had the bungee gear, guess what, the holes in the floor where open, guess
> what else, in the summer time I had to close that area up as much as
> possible, why because I would get a bunch of heat from the radiator and
> would push up through the floor. Now you can't tell me with your concern
> that you now should have a concern for co entering your airplane, I saw
> your video and you have spring gear. Also, the old spring gear had a
> problem from exhaust hitting the leg going from the center of the plane to
> the wheel, that's what caused most of that gears problem, I can see it
> hitting the leg and shooting up into the little hole for the bungees. I
> would be concerned for your situation when i!
> t comes to the exhaust as well. [Wink]
>
> --------
> kitfoxmike
>
>
> Read
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List">http://www.matron
Marco Menezes
Model 2 582 N99KX
---------------------------------
Need a quick answer? Get one in minutes from people who know. Ask your question
on Yahoo! Answers.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Smythe" <dosmythe(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Advice on fuel system upgrades |
Guy,
See below
----- Original Message -----
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Advice on fuel system upgrades
> I had a friend at the airport once claim that he had repeatedly suffered
> vapor lock in his fuel system in a 582 K-IV. He installed a Facet in
> series to cure it. His was the only occurrence of 582 vapor lock I could
> find.
I would suspect the plumbing might have been the root of his vapor lock
problem. i.e. continiously down hill, high loops, etc. I've heard of
installing a Facet pump other than right near the header can in itself cause
vapor lock. This happen to Michael Harter a few years back (Suburu). He
had to relocate the Facet from the firewall back to the header.
>. The Mikuni pump appears to have a failure rate at least as good as the
>rest of the 582, which I grant you isn't saying much.
I do not remember hearing about a single Mik pump failure in the last 10
years on the list. However, I'm sure there must have been one I just missed
it. Also, I can only recall a couple 582's that went down due to engine
failure and both that I recall were pilot/builder error.
>I decided that I would meticulously over-maintain the Mikuni and rely on
>its simplicity and autonomy for reliability.
I replace my Mik ever other year. I've heard in several circles that
purchasing a new one is preferred to rebuilding. Don't know.
Don Smythe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Smythe" <dosmythe(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Advice on fuel system upgrades |
Sounds like a fair conclusion to me. The only thing I would question is
rebuilding the pump. For some reason and I don't know why, several
Rotax articles I've read have suggested replacing with a new pump over
rebuilding??? They are after all, fairly inexpensive.
Don Smythe
----- Original Message -----
From: Marco Menezes
it annually. So I'm sending the Facet back, trading it for a Mikuni
rebuild kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dave" <dave(at)cfisher.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heater as requested |
Take the hoses off. And put cover the inlets to cabin.
No needs for all those fancy cables and knobs. they only extra weight.
:)
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: Marco Menezes
To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 2:30 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Heater as requested
Thanks Dave. That's about what I saw in my "mind's eye" when you
described it. One question: How do you shut it off in the Summer?
dave wrote:
Hi Marco, Sorry I was lazy and just stuck a camera in the cowl.
but here you go http://www.cfisher.com/heatmuff/
Hope that helps you and yes that is carsb heat that works too.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: Marco Menezes
To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 1:08 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Heater
Dave,
Could you publish some pictures of your heat muff installation?
Also, anyone else who has used similar technique with a 582 exhaust
system.
dave wrote:
I have a piece of alum bent at about 90 deg in front on bungees
to deflect,
fumes heat etc and protect the bungees from the same.
I have a scoop on backside of rad and it works gear -- no fumes
but Carbon
monoxide it odourless.
Heat Muff on muffler is the best heat aquiring mod you can make
in my
findings. Although a fellow on this list Jim from Belle River
Ontario that
I have met a few times at flyins has a oil cooler plumbed in his
coolant I
think and he says it works great . It is mounted over top of
runner pedals .
He could probably tell you better on the performance of it. He
has little
fans on it too. BTW His Kitfox IV is "pristine" and with 912
weighs at
about 600 lbs- so you know it a rocket !
I have very minimal airleaks as I have sealed up some like you
have.
What dave are you talking to ? >> I saw your video and you have
spring
gear. <<
Too many Daves LOL
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "kitfoxmike"
To:
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 10:17 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Heater
>
> Ok Dave you asked for it [Twisted Evil] , now you say that my
heat system
> has the risk of co in the cabin, first off it pulls from the
right side of
> the radiator, and only the right 4 inches. I channel it right
in through
> the hole for the bungee's in the floor. Now, before I had
spring gear I
> had the bungee gear, guess what, the holes in the floor where
open, guess
> what else, in the summer time I had to close that area up as
much as
> possible, why because I would get a bunch of heat from the
radiator and
> would push up through the floor. Now you can't tell me with
your concern
> that you now should have a concern for co entering your
airplane, I saw
> your video and you have spring gear. Also, the old spring gear
had a
> problem from exhaust hitting the leg going from the center of
the plane to
> the wheel, that's what caused most of that gears problem, I
can see it
> hitting the leg and shooting up into the little hole for the
bungees. I
> would be concerned for your situation when i!
> t comes to the exhaust as well. [Wink]
>
> --------
> kitfoxmike
>
>
>
>
> Read
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
------------------------------------------------------------------------N
eed a quick answer? Get one in minutes from people who know. Ask your
question on
Yahoo! Answers.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kirk hull" <kirkhull(at)kc.rr.com> |
The elevator is the perfect part to learn how to cover on. Anyone familiar
with fabric could walk you through it in no time.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jim
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 1:11 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Dear Abby
Dear Abby, I've never written to you before, but I really need your
advice on what could be a crucial decision. I've suspected for some time
now that my wife has been cheating on me. The usual signs... phone rings
but if I answer, the caller hangs up. My wife has been going out with
the girls a lot recently although when I ask their names she always
says, "Just some friends from work, you don't know them." I always stay
awake to look out for her taxi coming home, but she always walks down
the drive. Although I can hear a car driving off, as if she has gotten
out of the car round the corner. Why? Maybe she wasn't in a taxi? I once
picked her cell phone up just to see what time it was and she went
berserk and screamed that I should never touch her phone again and why
was I checking up on her. Anyway, I have never approached the subject
with my wife. I think deep down I just didn't want to know the truth,
but last night she went out again and I decided to really check on her.
I decided to park my Kitfox trailer next to the garage and then hide
behind it so I could get a good view of the whole street when she came
home. It was at that dreadful moment, crouching behind my plane, that I
noticed a large area of de-lamination of poly-fiber on my lower
elevator. Is this something I can fix myself with my Technical Counselor
or should I take it to a A&P?
Thanks, Jim
Happy Holidays
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A Smith" <kitfox(at)ida.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Facet Fuel Pump |
I run 2 Facet pumps in series. I only run 1 at a time though. They seem
to flow through just fine. These are for an NSI powerplant.
Albert Smith
NSI and mod 5
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | Advice on fuel system upgrades |
Once it's drawn up it is very easy to see the diaphragm leak you talk about.
My experience is mostly with the diaphragm pumps on snowmobiles and on the
older Tillitson carbs. I have seen some diaphragm perforations. What I
have seen is basically the engine shuts down so there is very little fuel
overflow into the crank case. I suspect that with a second fuel pump the
amount of fuel leaking into the crank case will increase with the engine
still running.
Two electric fuel pumps is no better.... A problem with the electrical buss
could immediately shut down the engine.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don Smythe
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 9:27 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Advice on fuel system upgrades
See drawing if this is what you are saying about check valves on each pump.
This might help in the case of a ruptured pulse line but would not do you
any good with a ruptured diaphragm in the Mik pump. Follow the dark fuel
line from the header to the crankcase. Raw fuel will pass straight to the
crankcase with a ruptured Mik. You would have to isolate the input to the
Mik but would probably be too late after discovery.
Don Smythe
----- Original Message -----
From: Noel <mailto:noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca> Loveys
Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2006 9:10 PM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Advice on fuel system upgrades
One way valves ( out) on both pumps and then plumb them in parallel. Takes
care of all the problems you stated.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | sliding valve controls oil cooler air |
| From: | Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> |
I just got back from a test flight with my newly installed sliding
valve. This valve controls the air to my oil cooler on my Jabiru 2200
engine. I closed the valve during startup, warmed up the engine, and
flew. During the flight , I realized that I'd forgotten to open the
valve, and the oil temp was 220 F, so I opened the valve, and
continued to fly. A little later I saw that the temp was 145F. I can
(obviously) control the air opening infinitely from the cockpit,
therefore the temperature can be controlled as well. Short of having a
thermostat with all its extra plumbing, this serves the purpose well.
If I had completely forgotten to look at the oil temp, the EIS would
have gone off at the set-point, and no damage would have occurred.
Lynn
Kitfox IV Speedster...Jabiru 2200
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bradley M Webb" <bmwebb(at)cox.net> |
I don't know what's funnier, the story...
Or the two of you not getting it!
Bradley
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of kirk hull
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 7:41 PM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Dear Abby
The elevator is the perfect part to learn how to cover on. Anyone familiar
with fabric could walk you through it in no time.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jim
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 1:11 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Dear Abby
Dear Abby, I've never written to you before, but I really need your
advice on what could be a crucial decision. I've suspected for some time
now that my wife has been cheating on me. The usual signs... phone rings
but if I answer, the caller hangs up. My wife has been going out with
the girls a lot recently although when I ask their names she always
says, "Just some friends from work, you don't know them." I always stay
awake to look out for her taxi coming home, but she always walks down
the drive. Although I can hear a car driving off, as if she has gotten
out of the car round the corner. Why? Maybe she wasn't in a taxi? I once
picked her cell phone up just to see what time it was and she went
berserk and screamed that I should never touch her phone again and why
was I checking up on her. Anyway, I have never approached the subject
with my wife. I think deep down I just didn't want to know the truth,
but last night she went out again and I decided to really check on her.
I decided to park my Kitfox trailer next to the garage and then hide
behind it so I could get a good view of the whole street when she came
home. It was at that dreadful moment, crouching behind my plane, that I
noticed a large area of de-lamination of poly-fiber on my lower
elevator. Is this something I can fix myself with my Technical Counselor
or should I take it to a A&P?
Thanks, Jim
Happy Holidays
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: gross weight |
| From: | "dcsfoto" <david(at)kelm.com> |
if you are flying in phase2 of your limitations you will to make a log entry and
go back to fhase 1 for 40 hrs of test flying
check your limitations they may require you to send a letter to the FAA.
The local FAA may give you a letter not requireing phase one flight.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=81614#81614
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Thompson" <kr2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: gross weight |
I Fly over gross all the time................................I
Think.............................
Me AT 220lbs,and my lovly bride at 200lbs....and 26gal fuel,still with a
climb at 700 ft min.Powered with a VW 2180 Direct drive.
Love my Kitfox 4 and my Bride.....N61AC
> [Original Message]
> From: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>
> To:
> Date: 12/13/2006 11:39:31 AM
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: gross weight
>
>
> I've got 'em all (speedster mods) including the short wings, and I flew
> 16 lbs over (full gas and a heavy friend : )), and there was no
> problem...a bit longer TO roll, but no problem. DISCLAIMER: As I often
> leave my house unlocked, and my computer on, anybody could have written
> this...that's for the FAA in case they're listening/lurking. : )
>
> Lynn
> p.s. Jabiru 85 horse engine with cruise prop
>
> On Tuesday, December 12, 2006, at 10:53 PM, kirk hull wrote:
>
> > I am flying a classic 4 with a suberu engine and all of the speedster
> > mods except the shorter wing. I was thinking about testing for a gross
> > weight of 1250 and was wandering if anybody has had problems operating
> > over 1200?
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <michaelgibbs(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: gross weight |
> I Fly over gross all the time...
Then I hope you aren't wasting your money on aircraft insurance.
Mike G.
N728KF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | Re:Off Topic Dear Abby |
I spent some time in Labrador several years ago. At one time or the
other
I've been hitch hikes ( by bush plane) most of the Labrador populated
area.
Oh yes... "Beothuck Explorer" is a Kitfox III-A ( discussion on that one
)
582 grey W/ "B" box swinging an Ivo UL in flight adj... All mounted on
Aerocet 1100 straight floats.
Noel
Merry Christmas!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> john perry
> Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2006 10:18 AM
> To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re:Off Topic Dear Abby
>
>
>
> Noel
> I am from the big ALASKA . Born and raised there ,moved to America .
> Take care fly safe fly low fly slow fly fun fly Kitfox or
> that other thing
> think its called a avid lol .
>
> Happy Holidays Merry CHRISTMAS
> John Perry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michel Verheughe <michel(at)online.no> |
| Subject: | Her critical spot |
Dear Abby,
Here is a question I have always wondered about but never dared to ask.
My loved one and I have a beautiful, sensual relationship. Yet, each
time I take her close to the G-point ... err, sorry, the stall point,
prior to mush down with pleasure, she gives me a faint noise that
sounds like the fabric cracking on her wings or fuselage.
Is this normal?
Yours truly,
Michel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Pearsall" <donpearsall(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Please no more Dear Abby |
After the recent spate of complaints about off-topic posts, let's not get
too far into risqu or humorous posts. I personally think these are funny,
but remember the KF list rules. I am sure there are members out there who do
not appreciate the humor.
Back to discussing Kitfoxes in a non-humorous way please
Don (Grinch) Pearsall - List Admin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michel
Verheughe
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2006 8:53 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Her critical spot
Dear Abby,
Here is a question I have always wondered about but never dared to ask.
My loved one and I have a beautiful, sensual relationship. Yet, each
time I take her close to the G-point ... err, sorry, the stall point,
prior to mush down with pleasure, she gives me a faint noise that
sounds like the fabric cracking on her wings or fuselage.
Is this normal?
Yours truly,
Michel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michel Verheughe <michel(at)online.no> |
| Subject: | Re: Please no more Dear Abby |
On Dec 16, 2006, at 6:29 PM, Don Pearsall wrote:
> After the recent spate of complaints about off-topic posts, let's not
> get
> too far into risqu or humorous posts.
I am sorry, Don, I won't do it again. Here is the question in a serious
way: Is it normal to hear a sharp noise sounding like a tear in the
fabric when stalling. Thanks in avance,
Michel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clint Bazzill" <clint_bazzill(at)hotmail.com> |
Test for plain text.
_________________________________________________________________
Get the latest Windows Live Messenger 8.1 Beta version.Join now.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clint Bazzill" <clint_bazzill(at)hotmail.com> |
Test
_________________________________________________________________
Visit MSN Holiday Challenge for your chance to win up to $50,000 in Holiday
cash from MSN today!
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Vixen Information |
I have just purchased a Kitfox Vixen ( HCY-012 ) and would like to talk with
any early Vixen owners/builders.
This Kitfox has the long ( 32' ) wings and the wide ( 7' 11" ) elevator.
And the wings are swept forward 1 degree. All similar to the
Continental-powered Series 5 Vixen shown in the Pilot's Operating Handbook, but
this one was
originally built and is still powered by a 912 UL . I did not get a builder's
manual with the plane and would like to know if this was the recommended
set-up for this configuration. None of the "Tested CG Range" charts seem to
match the weight and balance information received with the plane.
I have heard of some Kitfox IV builders forward sweeping there wings, was
this to compensate for a heavy engine or for some performance design? What
should this do for my Vixen? Also would like to know what the gross weight
should be for this Vixen.
Thanks for your help,
Mark
Wisconsin
_RRTRACK(at)AOL.COM_ (mailto:RRTRACK(at)AOL.COM)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vixen Information |
Congrats Mark on your new purchase. Yes, the forward wing sweep was to
compensate for the heavy engine, namely the Lycoming O235, Cont IO240,
and Subarus. Using the light 912 engine with forward sweep wings would
probably create a tail heavy condition if not compensated by something
extreme forward such as a heavy prop.
The gross weight would be determined by the model/year serial number
which would be either 1400 or 1550.
Just my 2 cents.
Deke
S5 with forward swept wings and Soob with heavy prop
----- Original Message -----
From: RRTRACK(at)aol.com
To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2006 3:52 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Vixen Information
I have just purchased a Kitfox Vixen ( HCY-012 ) and would like to
talk with any early Vixen owners/builders.
This Kitfox has the long ( 32' ) wings and the wide ( 7' 11" )
elevator. And the wings are swept forward 1 degree. All similar to the
Continental-powered Series 5 Vixen shown in the Pilot's Operating
Handbook, but this one was originally built and is still powered by a
912 UL . I did not get a builder's manual with the plane and would like
to know if this was the recommended set-up for this configuration. None
of the "Tested CG Range" charts seem to match the weight and balance
information received with the plane.
I have heard of some Kitfox IV builders forward sweeping there
wings, was this to compensate for a heavy engine or for some performance
design? What should this do for my Vixen? Also would like to know what
the gross weight should be for this Vixen.
Thanks for your help,
Mark
Wisconsin
RRTRACK(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Daniels <aldaniels(at)fmtcblue.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vixen Information |
The 1 degree forward sweep is to move the center of lift forward to give
a better CG for heavy engines. I also put 1 degree on my 5 with a 7 FWF
tailwheel with a 912s that was built light and licensed for 1320 so I
could get the tailwheel on with better control. The only thing it did
for my weight and balance is that it limits how much I can carry in the
cargo compartment. I think it limits me to about 120 pounds, but if I am
not carrying bricks or sacks of cement it is not a problem. You would
have to do the math to see where it puts you with the short engine mount
of the early Vixen, but it should not be a problem. As far as gross
weight it could be 1400 or if it is one of the real early ones it could
be less. The information with the plane should tell you what the design
weights are. Even the later Vixen was limited to 1400 pounds with the 80
HP engine due to performance limitations.
RRTRACK(at)aol.com wrote:
> I have just purchased a Kitfox Vixen ( HCY-012 ) and would like to
> talk with any early Vixen owners/builders.
> This Kitfox has the long ( 32' ) wings and the wide ( 7' 11" )
> elevator. And the wings are swept forward 1 degree. All similar to
> the Continental-powered Series 5 Vixen shown in the Pilot's Operating
> Handbook, but this one was originally built and is still powered by a
> 912 UL . I did not get a builder's manual with the plane and would
> like to know if this was the recommended set-up for this
> configuration. None of the "Tested CG Range" charts seem to match the
> weight and balance information received with the plane.
> I have heard of some Kitfox IV builders forward sweeping there
> wings, was this to compensate for a heavy engine or for some
> performance design? What should this do for my Vixen? Also would like
> to know what the gross weight should be for this Vixen.
> Thanks for your help,
> Mark
> Wisconsin
> RRTRACK(at)AOL.COM
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RAY Gignac" <kitfoxpilot(at)msn.com> |
My two cents worth! I am 6'1" 210, I fly a model IV 1200 with a 912uls.
Only problem area is getting in and out. Once inside my fox I'm fine. As
for passengers, no problems.
Ray
_________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tinne maha" <tinnemaha(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Trim Mount Bolt - Rudder Cable Interference |
I just completed a series 5 taildragger with Lycoming. The DAR who
inspected my airplane the other day (I have my airworthiness certificate
now!) made what I consider to be a very good catch. May or may not apply to
others here. The right rudder cable was rubbing against the nut end of the
bolt that mounts the trim motor to the fuselage. He told me to turn the
bolt around to eliminate the interference. I did what he said & the
interference is now gone. THANK YOU, Mr D.A.R.!
Although I'm very glad he caught that, I don't really know what to make of
this. On the one hand, I feel like he might have saved my life, but on the
other hand there are probably hundreds of Kitfoxes that have been flying for
years with this same condition [I checked the plans & the way it was
originally (cable rubbing on bolt) was per the skystar instructions for both
Series 5 & Series 6.]
Did I miss a service bulletin, or is this a non-issue?
Sorry if this is a worn out topic: I couldn't find anything in the archives,
but maybe I didn't use the right search string.
Grant Krueger
_________________________________________________________________
Stay up-to-date with your friends through the Windows Live Spaces friends
list.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim Mount Bolt - Rudder Cable Interference |
Grant,
Congratulations on the Certificate and the good eyes of the DAR.
This brings to mind the data base I have collected on the flying Kitfoxes.
I will add you to the list and anyone else out there not on the list yet,
drop a note. Other data on the list is exact engine designation, third
wheel configuration, location and anything else particular to your airplane.
Also I would suggest that anyone building drop a note also as there is
plenty of room in the spreadsheet. It's just nice to see what we all are
doing.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tinne maha" <tinnemaha(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2006 7:40 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Trim Mount Bolt - Rudder Cable Interference
>
> I just completed a series 5 taildragger with Lycoming. The DAR who
> inspected my airplane the other day (I have my airworthiness certificate
> now!) made what I consider to be a very good catch. May or may not apply
> to others here. The right rudder cable was rubbing against the nut end of
> the bolt that mounts the trim motor to the fuselage. He told me to turn
> the bolt around to eliminate the interference. I did what he said & the
> interference is now gone. THANK YOU, Mr D.A.R.!
>
> Although I'm very glad he caught that, I don't really know what to make of
> this. On the one hand, I feel like he might have saved my life, but on
> the other hand there are probably hundreds of Kitfoxes that have been
> flying for years with this same condition [I checked the plans & the way
> it was originally (cable rubbing on bolt) was per the skystar instructions
> for both Series 5 & Series 6.]
> Did I miss a service bulletin, or is this a non-issue?
>
> Sorry if this is a worn out topic: I couldn't find anything in the
> archives, but maybe I didn't use the right search string.
>
> Grant Krueger
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Stay up-to-date with your friends through the Windows Live Spaces friends
> list.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rexster" <runwayrex(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | OIl Leak / Lowell |
Lowell and the rest,
A couple weeks ago, I mentioned that I had an oil leak in the front r
ight side of my 912. I found it last week and think you guys may benefit
from what I found. The oil pump housing had cracked right where the sen
ding unit screws in. The sending unit is a pipe thread (meaning that it'
s tapered). Every time I snugged everything up trying to stop the leak,
I opened up the crack a bit more. The oil pump housing is very thin righ
t there and can't handle much torque on the sending unit. It's very diff
icult to get a torque wrench on the sending unit and the only way I thin
k it can be done is with a wrench, a spring scale, and some math. The to
rque setting calls for 266 inch pounds. Lo and behold, last weekend, I o
pened up a Rotax list of recent service bulletins and they've changed th
e torque on the sending unit! It's been cut in half from 266 inch pounds
to only 133 inch pounds. The manual calls for Loctite 221 on the thread
s which is difficult to find. I called LEAF and they said to use Loctite
242 which I have.
That cracked housing on the pump is not available separately. We have
to purchase the entire pump to get it. Make sure you're sitting before
you read the price of the pump. It costs $514 plus some change, tax and
shipping. There's a fellow in our chapter who is quite a welder. He look
ed at it and has an idea of welding a spacer on to the housing where the
sender used to screw in. Then, he's going to put a pipe thread in the s
pacer for the sending unit. He doesn't know yet if the type of aluminum
is weldable or not, but he'll know by next weekend. I sure am glad that
he's currently borrowing my HVLP paint system for his plane!
Next time you're looking at your sending unit, check out how thin the
metal is on the pump on the engine side of the sending unit. I'm guessi
ng that Rotax has had other pumps break in this same area, hence the red
uced torque specification. If my friend can weld that spacer on, it will
be much stronger. If not, I've got to buy a new pump. I hope this helps
save some of you from this same problem.
Rex in Michigan
-- "Lowell Fitt" wrote:
This brings to mind the data base I have collected on the flying Kitfoxe
s.
I will add you to the list and anyone else out there not on the list yet
,
drop a note. Other data on the list is exact engine designation, third
wheel configuration, location and anything else particular to your airpl
ane.
Also I would suggest that anyone building drop a note also as there is
plenty of room in the spreadsheet. It's just nice to see what we all ar
e
doing.
Lowell
Lowell and the rest,
A couple weeks ago, I mentioned that I had an oil leak i
n the front right side of my 912. I found it last week and think you guy
s may benefit from what I found. The oil pump housing had cracked right
where the sending unit screws in. The sending unit is a pipe thread (mea
ning that it's tapered). Every time I snugged everything up trying to st
op the leak, I opened up the crack a bit more. The oil pump housing is v
ery thin right there and can't handle much torque on the sending unit. I
t's very difficult to get a torque wrench on the sending unit and the on
ly way I think it can be done is with a wrench, a spring scale, and some
math. The torque setting calls for 266 inch pounds. Lo and behold, last
weekend, I opened up a Rotax list of recent service bulletins and they'
ve changed the torque on the sending unit! It's been cut in half from 26
6 inch pounds to only 133 inch pounds. The manual calls for Loctite 221
on the threads which is difficult to find. I called LEAF and they said t
o use Loctite 242 which I have.
That cracked housing on the pump is not available separa
tely. We have to purchase the entire pump to get it. Make sure you're si
tting before you read the price of the pump. It costs $514 plus some cha
nge, tax and shipping. There's a fellow in our chapter who is quite
a welder. He looked at it and has an idea of welding a spacer on to the
housing where the sender used to screw in. Then, he's going to put
a pipe thread in the spacer for the sending unit. He doesn't know
yet if the type of aluminum is weldable or not, but he'll know by next w
eekend. I sure am glad that he's currently borrowing my HVLP paint
system for his plane!
Next time you're looking at your sending unit, check out
how thin the metal is on the pump on the engine side of the sending uni
t. I'm guessing that Rotax has had other pumps break in this s
ame area, hence the reduced torque specification. If my friend can weld
that spacer on, it will be much stronger. If not, I've got to buy a new
pump. I hope this helps save some of you from this same problem.
Rex in Michigan
-- "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net>
;wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by:&nbs
p;"Lowell Fitt" lcfitt
@sbcglobal.net
This brings to
mind the data base I have collected&
nbsp;on the flying Kitfoxes.
I will ad
d you to the list and anyone else&nbs
p;out there not on the list yet,
drop a note. Other data on the
list is exact engine designation, third wheel configuration, location and anything el
se particular to your airplane.
Also I&n
bsp;would suggest that anyone building drop&nbs
p;a note also as there is
plenty
of room in the spreadsheet. It's jus
t nice to see what we all are doing.
Lowell