RV-Archive.digest.vol-ij
April 22, 2000 - April 28, 2000
loops are generally around one positive g over the top. It is also easy to
do one g rolls.
I have a carburated engine and my experience is that the engine quits
completely and absolutely at the instant of zero g. This is easily
demonstrated with a gentle pushover from level flight. I have also run into
it trying to do hammerheads.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
At the time that I built my tanks the flop tube was only about $16 so, since
I have the Airflow Performance injection system, I went ahead and installed
it. It's easy to do when you are building the tank and very difficult later.
Might even increase the value of the airplane should I ever sell it.
Dave
George True wrote:
>
> I, too, have wondered about the absolute necessity of putting in the
> flop tube...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sun-N-Fun notes |
Randy, the soil at Lakeland was very sandy but
still........soil......sorta. Matter of fact, I had to really crank down
with the included handle on a couple of the stakes to get them in, but
they only flexed a little. I don't think I have enough strength to break
one of the things! Guess what, the RV-4 pilot next to me broke one of
his doggie stakes! I showed the Ti-Downs to a couple of guys and they
couldn't believe how lightweight the entire set was.
I don't know how secure the plane would have been in a really high wind,
but I think it was fine for all but the most extreme conditions.
Have fun on your trip!
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
--------------------
Randy Simpson wrote:
>
>
> Hi Sam, and THANKS for the Sun-N-Fun experience write-up. I wish I coulda
> been there, but your little story made me virtually there. *smile*
>
> In your write-up, you mentioned that you used your Titanium Ti-downs in the
> Florida sand. I haven't had any feedback yet from people using them in
> sandy soil. Did you think the holding resistance was adequate for your RV
> while parked there?
>
> I've flown my Carrera Ultralight to the coast to test the holding power in
> beach sand, and it was way inadequate ("honest officer, I'm doing REASEARCH
> here and HAD to land on the beach" *grin*). I then made a custom 7 coil
> (22" long), large diameter coil (2" OD), and flew back to the beach (I
> know, work work work *smile*), and tried it again...I still could pull it
> outta the sand. *bleah* I sure would be better than nothing, tho...
>
> I'm guessing the holding power of my Titanium Ti-downs in sandy soil
> depends on how much sod there is to help hold the sand together.
>
> Randy Simpson
> Airtime Mfg.
> http://www.airtimemfg.com
>
> p.s. every time you mention the Ti-downs on this list, I get a bunch of new
> orders...Thanks Sam!
>
> pp.s. I'm sold out of the Ti-downs now, and won't be able to make any more
> till after my Ultralight group flight to the Grand Canyon (three
> Ultralights going). Wheels off May 10th, camping along the way, and
> returning home the end of May....
> ----------
> >
> >I have posted notes from Sun-N-Fun, including the RV-6/6A forum. "The RV
> >Journal" front page is here:
> >
> >http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal
> >
> >or you can go directly to the notes here:
> >
> >http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/S-N-F_00.html
> >
> >A huge Thank You to the many "RV Journal" readers who stopped by 399SB
> >to say hello!
> >
> >
> >Sam Buchanan (clip-winged, tail-dragger version of RV-9A)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Oliveira <Oliveira(at)eznet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How Many RV's? |
I can give you a clue on the RV9A - I just received my empennage kit,
Ordered on 3-23, received 4 - 20. Serial Number 90054
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 SPAR STEEL PLATES |
Dave-------very good advice. I have made a drill guide from a piece of
tubing and inserted a spacer in each end that has a small hole in it for my
pilot drill. I'm thinking that if i drill this hole first then use the tubing
without the small hole to enlarge to the next size, then go to one size
smaller than finish size, i can follow with a reamer.---?????????????????
What do you think? mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)aol.com |
DITTO-DITTO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 SPAR STEEL PLATES |
Don-------thanks, the answer seems to be a series of steps using bushings to
prevent enlarging the holes in the spars and fuselage. I'm using info from
all that have responded so far and it varies some but mostly along the same
lines. thanks again ------mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Stick Movement |
In a message dated 4/22/00 12:47:54 PM Pacific Daylight Time, JusCash(at)aol.com
writes:
<< I have installed the NAVAID servo under the passenger seat. How far, left
to
right, does the stick move on the -6? Measured at the opening in the seat
skin. >>
Cash-
I believe that I put some info into the archives a few years ago regarding
this. IIRC it moves about 30 degrees either side of vertical. I don't
remember fore and aft.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: No, I'm not starting another priming thread |
I am using Sikkens EP primer on my project. These are similar products.
Easy to use. I own a Bodyshop and special order EP out of everything
available.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Registration Problems |
Call Van's and ask for a bill of sale - it's pretty routine for them now but
it did take 2 weeks to get it. I just went throught this 'cause my
reservation letter of 2 years ago didn't include the BOS as required.
Beware that it took another 2 months to get my registration cert after I
sent in the BOS. And then only because I called and made them find it and
get it back on track.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY wiring & systems - Citabria is for sale
"Always do right- this will gratify some and astonish the rest." - Mark
Twain (1835-1910)
>
> I keep geeting my application for registration returned by the FAA
> because there is no Bill Of Sale. I sent in the receipts for the Kit and
> explained its a homebuilt, but they insist on a bill of sale as
> if I bought a
> registered or completed aircraft. Is anyone else having this
> problem? Also
> thanks for the replies on night legal lighting systems.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: Registration Problems |
>
>Call Van's and ask for a bill of sale - it's pretty routine for them now but
>it did take 2 weeks to get it. I just went throught this 'cause my
>reservation letter of 2 years ago didn't include the BOS as required.
>Beware that it took another 2 months to get my registration cert after I
>sent in the BOS. And then only because I called and made them find it and
>get it back on track.
>
>Regards,
>Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
>RV-6 N6GY wiring & systems - Citabria is for sale
>
>"Always do right- this will gratify some and astonish the rest." - Mark
>Twain (1835-1910)
>
>>
>> I keep geeting my application for registration returned by the FAA
>> because there is no Bill Of Sale. I sent in the receipts for the Kit and
>> explained its a homebuilt, but they insist on a bill of sale as
>> if I bought a
>> registered or completed aircraft. Is anyone else having this
>> problem? Also
>> thanks for the replies on night legal lighting systems.
>
What would someone building an airplane from plans do?? Will the FAA
still require a BOS and who would provide it??
I would assume the receipts for the kit, avionics, engine and
instruments should/would be sufficient. If you were building from
plans that is all you would have.
John Ammeter
1975 Jensen Healey
RV-6 (sold 4/98)
EAA Technical Counselor
NRA Life Member
ICQ#48819374
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <daronson(at)cwnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 SPAR STEEL PLATES |
Mike:
I think you're on the right track. Note.... The reamer will be hard work with
that plate steel. Man, isn't it fun!!!!!!!
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
MTMCGOWAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Dave-------very good advice. I have made a drill guide from a piece of
> tubing and inserted a spacer in each end that has a small hole in it for my
> pilot drill. I'm thinking that if i drill this hole first then use the tubing
> without the small hole to enlarge to the next size, then go to one size
> smaller than finish size, i can follow with a reamer.---?????????????????
> What do you think? mike
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Stick Movement |
I found Gary V,s post in the archives under "Stick Angular Displacement 6A".
The answer is 23 degrees side to side, 20 degrees back and 16 degrees
forward. I also found reference to 15 degrees neutral stick position in
other post. This is wrong, the plans call for 5 degrees Gary used 2 degrees
Cash.
In a message dated 4/23/00 4:24:04 AM GMT Daylight Time, Vanremog(at)aol.com
writes:
<<
In a message dated 4/22/00 12:47:54 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
JusCash(at)aol.com
writes:
<< I have installed the NAVAID servo under the passenger seat. How far,
left
to
right, does the stick move on the -6? Measured at the opening in the seat
skin. >>
Cash-
I believe that I put some info into the archives a few years ago regarding
this. IIRC it moves about 30 degrees either side of vertical. I don't
remember fore and aft.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pdsmith <pdsmith(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: replacing Van's wing t ips with Rocket wing tips |
I have them on my -8. Also see the October picture on Van's 2000
calendar.They fit better than Van's originals, are sturdier & you can tell
that they are just better made all the way around. If you buy them from Dan
Potter & Oliver Brennan (see Yeller Pages) they have a lighting kit (which I
haven't entirely figured out how to install yet). You could also check with
Team Rocket as they were making their own sheared tips with nav/strobe
bulkhead already molded in. When I checked with them some months ago, there
was no room for a landing light in this set-up. you had to use the
Duckworths in the wing leading edge.
Phil 80691
> snip
> Someone suggested to me that the Rocket wing tips would be better than
Van's
> wing tips for a few reasons IF they would fit. They thought that 1) the
> wing tips are already modified for night and taxi lights, 2) they were
> lighter as they were made differently and better and 3) they have a
"cooler"
> shape.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <daronson(at)cwnet.com> |
| Subject: | Van's and Avionics |
Lister's.
I am ready to order my radio's, vm1000 and navigation instruments. I
have already cut my panel and desire to order everything from one source
and have them do the harnesses. Has anyone delt with Van's recently?
Comments or suggestions. The list of instruments reads like:
RCA Horizon,RCA Direction, United Airspeed, United Altimeter, United
Vert ASp, Turn Coordinator, VM 1000, Mithchell RT/Left Fuel, Davtron
VOR, Davtron OAT, Airpath compas, KLX135A, KT76A, Microair760com. The
switches I can wire and I haven't spent enough time studying my
AeroElectric bible. Any reports about Van's service would be
appreciated.
David Aronson
RV4 N504RV
Engine almost hung
remodeling hanger, wow it's getting expensive!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
George True wrote:
>
>
> I, too, have wondered about the absolute necessity of putting in the
> flop tube if one intends to do mild acro only, no sustained inverted
> flight and little or no negative G's.
>
> My concern is this: I am intending to have fuel injection, probably the
> Airflow Performance system. I have heard that while a carbureted engine
> won't cut out as you go over the top of a loop because it has a small
> "reservoir" of fuel in the float bowl, a fuel-injected engine has no
> such reserve. Does this mean that the fuel-injected engine WILL cut out
> under such circumstances, or is simply more likely to? And if it does
> cut out, will it catch again within a few seconds as long as you don't
> stay inverted?
>
> Also, would the "cut-out" be delayed? I am thinking that as you go over
> the top of that loop with no flop tube, the fuel pickup is sucking air
> for a few seconds. How long would it take that air bubble in the line
> to reach the injectors? Just a few seconds, or longer? It would be
> disconcerting to have completed the loop, be flying straight and level,
> and THEN have the engine cut out.
>
> I would prefer not to put in the flop tube if I really don't have to.
> But if it's mandatory for doing any acro with a fuel-injected engine,
> I'll install it.
>
> George True
George,
My experience is with a fuel injected Lyc IO-360 Swift & a carburated
RV-4. Neither have inverted systems.
Loops, rolls, cuban 8's, slow rolls (within reason) can all be done
without even a stumble in either airplane. The injected Swift would do
hammerheads without stumbling. The Carburated RV will QUIT almost
immediately when the nose is pointed straight up & held there, long
before energy bleeds off enough to do a proper hammerhead.
So, short answer is, you shouldn't need it.
You didn't mention inverted oil. If you don't have an inverted oil
system, I'd think hard about installing inverted fuel. If it quits from
fuel starvation, it will start again. If it continues to run after 'that
other starvation,' it can cause real problems. ;-)
Charlie
Sold the Swift, Bought the -4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Has anyone done business with AeroSport Power in Canada ?? |
Yes, I am running a hopped up O-360-A1A. Bart is one of the most honest people
you will ever do business with. We have two AeroSport engines currently flying
on the field.
Gary Zilik
6A N99PZ Power by AeroSport.
P91168(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Has anyone done business with AeroSport Power in Canada ??
> I'm looking for a 0-320 for my RV4 project and I am soliciting a reference
> from anyone about AeroSport Power in B.C.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Question Regarding Prop Guard... |
Matt, I just recently had my 72FM8 overhauled by Rocky Mountain Propeller
and asked the same question. Dave said that they use to sell prop tape but
that it would not stay on for any extended length of time. Just one mans
opinion. My prop took a direct hit from a bolt while spinning at full power
so Prop Guard would not have saved the prop. 400 bucks later my Sensenich
looked brand new again and I want to keep it that way so I think I shall
order the Prop Guard and give it a try.
Gary Zilik
Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> Hi Listers,
>
> Found the following ad in the latest issue of the Pacific Flyer. Seems
> like it might be a nice idea for that $5k CS prop. Has anyone had any
> experiences with this system, good or bad? How does it affect the
> balance? What if one flys off?
>
> http://matronics.com/MattsRV4/PropGuard.jpg
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Question Regarding Prop Guard... |
Matt, I just recently had my 72FM8 overhauled by Rocky Mountain
Propeller
and asked the same question. Dave said that they use to sell prop tape
but
that it would not stay on for any extended length of time. Just one mans
opinion. My prop took a direct hit from a bolt while spinning at full
power
so Prop Guard would not have saved the prop. 400 bucks later my
Sensenich
looked brand new again and I want to keep it that way so I think I shall
order the Prop Guard and give it a try.
Gary Zilik
Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> Hi Listers,
>
> Found the following ad in the latest issue of the Pacific Flyer. Seems
> like it might be a nice idea for that $5k CS prop. Has anyone had any
> experiences with this system, good or bad? How does it affect the
> balance? What if one flys off?
>
> http://matronics.com/MattsRV4/PropGuard.jpg
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Registration Problems |
I had the same problem. Called vans and told them of my problem. They sent me
a bill of sale. Vans said that the FAA had come up with this new twist late
in 1999. No big deal. Sent in the bill of sale that Vans sent me and sent it
to the FAA. received my registration in about two weeks. Terry E. Cole N468TC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <rv8abuild(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's and Avionics |
>
> Lister's.
>
> I am ready to order my radio's, vm1000 and navigation instruments. I
> have already cut my panel and desire to order everything from one source
> and have them do the harnesses. Has anyone delt with Van's recently?
> Comments or suggestions.
I ordered the UPS GX 65 GPS Com and SL 70 transponder from them. Nobody
could touch their prices on these, and I was very pleased with the guy who
made up my wiring harness. He called me to clarify a couple of things and
was done right. I used Electronics International guages which Van's did not
offer any package deal on, so I got them from Spruce.
The list of instruments reads like:
> RCA Horizon,RCA Direction, United Airspeed, United Altimeter, United
> Vert ASp, Turn Coordinator, VM 1000, Mithchell RT/Left Fuel, Davtron
> VOR, Davtron OAT, Airpath compas, KLX135A, KT76A, Microair760com. The
> switches I can wire and I haven't spent enough time studying my
> AeroElectric bible.
I would suggest studying Bob's writings to this extent: How are you going
to provide overvoltage protection for your system? It is my understanding
that the ammeter on theVM 1000 is internally shunted as it normally comes
from the factory. If you use the Nuckolls method, you may find it difficult
to set your ammeter\voltmeter\overvoltage protection up to your
satisfaction. I'm sure there is a way to do it, and perhaps others on the
list who have fit the VM 1000 into the Aeroelectric plans. I wanted the VM
1000 because it was so slick-looking and light, but ended up getting the
E.I. gauges and Bob Nuckolls' loadmeter and overprotection devices for peace
of mind.
Jerry Carter
My RV-8A Web Site:
http://www.rv8asite.homestead.com/mainpage.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-4 SPAR STEEL PLATES |
You've probably got one of the most difficult things on an RV to do:
duplicate 16 close tolerance holes
to 2 new hardened steel parts. There are a lot of things to consider when
planning this thing out- if I was
doing it, I'd want to talk with someone who has actually done it; and more
than once. The guy to talk
with is Wayne Stonecipher, from Phlogiston (originally drilled the spar and
center section assembly)-
he's a great guy with lot's of experience and likes to help RV builders.
Regards,
Sam Ray
80262
doing the fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 SPAR STEEL PLATES |
In a message dated 4/22/00 8:14:47 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
MTMCGOWAN(at)aol.com writes:
<< Dave-------very good advice. I have made a drill guide from a piece of
tubing and inserted a spacer in each end that has a small hole in it for my
pilot drill. I'm thinking that if i drill this hole first then use the
tubing
without the small hole to enlarge to the next size, then go to one size
smaller than finish size, i can follow with a reamer.---?????????????????
What do you think? mike
>>
Go to your machine tool supply store and get an extended center drill
with a 3/8 diameter body. That will give you a concentric drill start. F
LaForge RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Peck" <dpeck(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | Range & endurance test form |
Listers, I made myself a form for recording aircraft parameters to calculate
the power curve for range and endurance as detailed in Sport Aviation in
February and March.
Hope its of some help, any improvements welcome.
PROCEDURE: front side of the power curve.
Record Start Weight by ;
Empty weight + Crew weight + Fuel weight (........Lt x 0.71 Kg )
OR (........Gal x 5.93 Lb.)
........................+ .......................+.........................
= .................... Start Weight
At a safe altitude set altimeter to 1013 / 29.92.
Lean mixture as you would for cross country flight.
From slightly above test altitude, make a shallow dive to achieve Vmax + 10
knots with full throttle at test altitude. DO NOT EXCEED Vne.
Maintain test altitude and allow the aircraft to decelerate, when
deceleration is less than 2 knots in one minute record parameters.
Reduce power, maintain test altitude and allow the aircraft to decelerate.
When deceleration is less than 2 knots in one minute record parameters.
Repeat until aircraft can not maintain level flight.
Reset altimeter.
Observed Pressure
Airspeed Altitude
(knots) (Altimeter) OAT R.P.M Fuel Flow Fuel Used Remarks
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
PROCEDURE: back side of the power curve.
Record Start Weight by ;
Empty weight + Crew weight + Fuel weight (........Lt x 0.71 Kg )
OR (........Gal x 5.93
Lb.)
........................+ .......................+.........................
= .................... Start Weight
At a safe altitude set altimeter to 1013 / 29.92.
Reduce power slightly from slowest front side data point.
Select a target airspeed below the slowest front side data point. As the
aircraft approaches the target increase power to slightly above the slowest
front side data point.
Maintain target airspeed, note stabilised rate of climb or descent. If
climbing reduce power slightly, if descending add power slightly.
Adjust power to maintain target airspeed. When less than 50 fpm altitude
change in one minute record parameters.
Repeat at progressively slower airspeeds. CAUTION APPROACHING STALL.
Reset altimeter.
Observed Pressure
Airspeed Altitude
(knots) (Altimeter) OAT R.P.M Fuel Flow Fuel Used Remarks
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
Start Weight = ....................
Fuel used weight (........Lt x 0.71 Kg ) =.......................
OR (........Gal x 5.93 Lb.)=.......................
Finish Weight = ......................
Average Weight = ....................
Average Density Altitude .......................
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Collins <collins(at)pali.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Has anyone done business with AeroSport Power in Canada ?? |
Hi Gary,
Would you share with us how much said engine cost you? What accessories did
it include?
Thanks
Bob Collins
Sunnyvale CA
Gary Zilik wrote:
>
>
> Yes, I am running a hopped up O-360-A1A. Bart is one of the most honest people
> you will ever do business with. We have two AeroSport engines currently flying
> on the field.
>
> Gary Zilik
> 6A N99PZ Power by AeroSport.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)ispchannel.com> |
Greetings,
Does anyone have a link to Lycoming's pub #1241 on pre-oiling? Is it actually
online somewhere
(couldn't find it on their site). I've also heard about taking out the bottom
plugs and cranking
the engine over to get pressure before start.
On a related subject, has anyone installed a full time pre-oiler? For years I've
seen these sold
for cars/boats/etc, and they claim that the majority engine wear occurs during
those few seconds at
startup. For the average car engine, this seems unnecessary these days, but for
a $20k Lycoming it
might make sense. Do you think a system like this would really make a Lycoming
engine last longer?
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (engine details, then off to the hanger)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: accurate fuel amount measuring |
> Can someone please give me a primer on the different ways to most
accurately
> measure in flight fuel tank quantities.
Didn't see a response yet so even though I'm definitely not an expert, I'll
give it a shot.
1) Float senders. Use a rehostat rotated by an arm on a float. Accuracy
limited by the fact that they are in the inboard bay so wing dihedral means
any fuel above the level of this bay won't get measured (i.e. it reads full
until it gets down to this point.) Reliability with these is so-so. This is
the standard Van's setup. Works ok for most folks in spite of the drawbacks.
2) Capacitance senders. 2 types that I know of -- the fancy ones use a rod
that go all the way out to the end of the tank, high outboard to low
inboard. Better accuracy and I believe better reliability (no moving parts),
but more expensive probably a little more work to install. The less fancy
ones are the ones Vans recently came out with that are lighter and cheaper
but only install in the inboard tank so have the same accuracy issues that
the float sender has. But probably more reliable since no moving parts.
3) Fuel flow devices. Use a flow sensor in-line between the fuel selector
and the carbeurator somewhere. Very accurate fuel burn/fuel used/etc. Main
drawback is that most (all?) types generally just use the one sensor so you
don't know how much you have in each tank, only fuel burned overall. Also
depend on the user to reset at fill-up, and to always fill to the same
level. Won't tell you if the tank sprung a leak either. For these reasons
its normally used as a back-up to the gauges. When used properly and in
conjunction with the gauges however they give a much higher level of
confidence with respect to how far you can fly since you have a much better
idea of what your exact fuel burn is. Also will make you think more about
your power settings since you can see real time what your fuel burn is. A
plug here for Matronics -- I have the Fuel Scan LT which is a great
instrument.
4) Gauges -- there are lots of types, EI makes an expensive one that is nice
but has the drawback that it only shows one tank at a time on the digital
readout(does have pseudo-analog LEDs that show both thanks tho.) For this
reason they can't certify it so its only for use on homebuilts. I have a
Westach single gauge with two needles which doesn't have a great rep. for
reliability but the price was right and its a single 2 1/4" hole, and has
worked great for me so far. I don't have any direct experience with Van's
gauges.
Only one more bit of advice -- put the gauge(s) somewhere in or close to
your scan. Sticking them over on the right ala Cessna or down at the fuel
selector, especially in an RV which doesn't have cross-feed tanks, increases
the likelihood of inadvertantly running one tank dry. I put mine up next to
the ASI and never forget to switch tanks (the Matronics "switch tank alert"
feature doesn't hurt either!)
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~75 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Registration Problems |
> I had the same problem. Called vans and told them of my problem. They sent
me
> a bill of sale. Vans said that the FAA had come up with this new twist
late
> in 1999. No big deal. Sent in the bill of sale that Vans sent me and sent
it
> to the FAA. received my registration in about two weeks. Terry E. Cole
N468TC
Are you folks getting your registrations BEFORE your inspection and
airworthiness certificates? Just curious because I know another local
builder who did that. Is it possible, is it advisable?
Randy Lervold
RV-8, fwf stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | heavy duty rivet cutters for sale |
Like new (I don't think they have ever been used) heavy duty rivet cutters
from Cleveland. The sticker on the wrapper says $55. I'll sell for $25
plus shipping. I bought a box of tools from someone quitting a RV project
so that's how I came across them.
Lucky Macy
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: accurate fuel amount measuring |
>
>
>4) Gauges -- there are lots of types, EI makes an expensive one that is
nice
>but has the drawback that it only shows one tank at a time on the digital
>readout(does have pseudo-analog LEDs that show both thanks tho.) For this
>reason they can't certify it so its only for use on homebuilts. I have a
>Westach single gauge with two needles which doesn't have a great rep. for
>reliability but the price was right and its a single 2 1/4" hole, and has
>worked great for me so far. I don't have any direct experience with Van's
>gauges.
>
The EI system I have has a switch that allows you to display digitally the
left tank, right tank, or both. It also has a pseudo analog display. It
also allows you to calibrate the system. I calibrated mine for a level
flight attitude.
I am very happy with the system.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Streit <wooody98(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: heavy duty rivet cutters for sale |
Where are you located?
lucky macy wrote:
>
> Like new (I don't think they have ever been used) heavy duty rivet cutters
> from Cleveland. The sticker on the wrapper says $55. I'll sell for $25
> plus shipping. I bought a box of tools from someone quitting a RV project
> so that's how I came across them.
>
> Lucky Macy
> Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Registration Problems |
Yes, that's the way it has to be done. The inspector must see a valid
registration before he will inspect your airplane and issue your AW Cert.
Bruce
Glasair III
Randy Lervold wrote:
>
> > I had the same problem. Called vans and told them of my problem. They sent
> me
> > a bill of sale. Vans said that the FAA had come up with this new twist
> late
> > in 1999. No big deal. Sent in the bill of sale that Vans sent me and sent
> it
> > to the FAA. received my registration in about two weeks. Terry E. Cole
> N468TC
>
> Are you folks getting your registrations BEFORE your inspection and
> airworthiness certificates? Just curious because I know another local
> builder who did that. Is it possible, is it advisable?
>
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, fwf stuff
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Registration Problems |
> Are you folks getting your registrations BEFORE your inspection and
> airworthiness certificates? Just curious because I know another local
> builder who did that. Is it possible, is it advisable?
>
Randy, the answer to your question is yes. The Dar I used would not
inspect/issue and airworthiness certificate without the registration. The
project may be registered at any time during construction. If you register early
you save spending 10 bucks a year to keep your number reserved. On the down
side, you may end up paying local/state taxes once you register.
Gary Zilik
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)aa.net> |
| Subject: | Bill of sale required |
> I keep geeting my application for registration returned by the FAA
> because there is no Bill Of Sale. I sent in the receipts for the Kit and
> explained its a homebuilt, but they insist on a bill of sale as if I bought a
> registered or completed aircraft. Is anyone else having this problem? Also
> thanks for the replies on night legal lighting systems.
>
> Dave Beizer
> RV6A Final Assembly
The EAA Homebuilder's Council will be meeting in two weeks, and I'll see
if we can get this on the agenda for discussion and action. You're not
the only one who is having this kind of problem. In fact, on the SkyStar
(Kitfox) web page, they've reportedly got a form letter to send to the FAA.
Ed Wischmeyer
--
REPLY TO FUNCTION HAS A SPAM BLOCK ON IT,
SO USE THIS RETURN ADDRESS: edwisch(at)aa.net
NOTE: 5% of messages sent to me don't make it, so use a return receipt to
insure delivery. The phone company system drops packets.
- - - - - - - -
Ed Wischmeyer
Web page: http://members.aa.net/~edwisch
Email: edwisch(at)aa.net
name="edwisch.vcf"
filename="edwisch.vcf"
begin:vcard
n:Wischmeyer;Ed
tel;fax:425 898-9566
tel;home:425 898-9856
url:http://members.aa.net/~edwisch
adr:;;18615 NE 53rd Street;Redmond;WA;98052;
version:2.1
email;internet:edwisch(at)aa.net
fn:Ed Wischmeyer
end:vcard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Merl Raisbeck <raisbeck(at)uwyo.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Question Regarding Prop Guard... |
Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>
> Hi Listers,
>
> Found the following ad in the latest issue of the Pacific Flyer. Seems
> like it might be a nice idea for that $5k CS prop. Has anyone had any
> experiences with this system, good or bad? How does it affect the
> balance? What if one flys off?
>
> http://matronics.com/MattsRV4/PropGuard.jpg
>
How careful do you have to be to keep the prop balanced? Does the tape
weigh enough to unbalance the prop if one side flies off?
--
Merl Raisbeck DVM, PhD
raisbeck(at)uwyo.edu Common sense isn't
ph (307) 742-6638 - Lazarus Long
fax (307) 721-2051
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Range & endurance test form |
Hi David,
I have not dug out my SA magazines and you did not show us what to do to
finish the range calculation. Is it an involved process once you have this
data?
Bernie Kerr 6A N60WM
In a message dated 4/23/00 11:01:56 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
dpeck(at)ozemail.com.au writes:
<< Subj: RV-List: Range & endurance test form
Date: 4/23/00 11:01:56 AM Eastern Daylight Time
From: dpeck(at)ozemail.com.au (David Peck)
Sender: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
Reply-to: rv-list(at)matronics.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com (RV-LIST)
Listers, I made myself a form for recording aircraft parameters to calculate
the power curve for range and endurance as detailed in Sport Aviation in
February and March.
Hope its of some help, any improvements welcome.
PROCEDURE: front side of the power curve.
Record Start Weight by ;
Empty weight + Crew weight + Fuel weight (........Lt x 0.71 Kg )
OR (........Gal x 5.93 Lb.)
........................+ .......................+.........................
= .................... Start Weight
At a safe altitude set altimeter to 1013 / 29.92.
Lean mixture as you would for cross country flight.
From slightly above test altitude, make a shallow dive to achieve Vmax + 10
knots with full throttle at test altitude. DO NOT EXCEED Vne.
Maintain test altitude and allow the aircraft to decelerate, when
deceleration is less than 2 knots in one minute record parameters.
Reduce power, maintain test altitude and allow the aircraft to decelerate.
When deceleration is less than 2 knots in one minute record parameters.
Repeat until aircraft can not maintain level flight.
Reset altimeter.
Observed Pressure
Airspeed Altitude
(knots) (Altimeter) OAT R.P.M Fuel Flow Fuel Used Remarks
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
PROCEDURE: back side of the power curve.
Record Start Weight by ;
Empty weight + Crew weight + Fuel weight (........Lt x 0.71 Kg )
OR (........Gal x 5.93
Lb.)
........................+ .......................+.........................
= .................... Start Weight
At a safe altitude set altimeter to 1013 / 29.92.
Reduce power slightly from slowest front side data point.
Select a target airspeed below the slowest front side data point. As the
aircraft approaches the target increase power to slightly above the slowest
front side data point.
Maintain target airspeed, note stabilised rate of climb or descent. If
climbing reduce power slightly, if descending add power slightly.
Adjust power to maintain target airspeed. When less than 50 fpm altitude
change in one minute record parameters.
Repeat at progressively slower airspeeds. CAUTION APPROACHING STALL.
Reset altimeter.
Observed Pressure
Airspeed Altitude
(knots) (Altimeter) OAT R.P.M Fuel Flow Fuel Used Remarks
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
|_______|__________|____|______|________|_________|______________
Start Weight = ....................
Fuel used weight (........Lt x 0.71 Kg ) =.......................
OR (........Gal x 5.93 Lb.)=.......................
Finish Weight = ......................
Average Weight = ....................
Average Density Altitude .......................
_ >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H. Martin Sutter" <hmsutter(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Epoxy Cowl for trade |
Anyone in the Dallas/Fort Worth area want to upgrade to an RV6 epoxy cowl?
All you have to do is give me your regular white fiber glass cowl in trade.
I obtained the new cowling for retrofit on my flying RV6 but found out it is
difficult to adapt to an older airplane due to sightly different shape and
thinner attach area along the fire wall. Your cowl has to be un-cut. I do
not need the scoop. Must be the constant speed cowling. DFW area only
since cowling is expensive to ship and requires a large crate.
Reply off list.
Martin Sutter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Van's and Avionics |
Does any one using the VM 1000 worry about a a failure. Would you not loose
all your engine instruments if this unit failed, or do you just loose
individual gages?
John Danielson
RV-6 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Registration Problems |
i don't think you want to offer the receipts for anything other than the
airframe. no need to pay tax on engine, avionics, etc so don't call
attention to them.
>From: ammeterj(at)home.com (John Ammeter)
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Registration Problems
>Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2000 04:16:52 GMT
>
>
>
> >
> >Call Van's and ask for a bill of sale - it's pretty routine for them now
>but
> >it did take 2 weeks to get it. I just went throught this 'cause my
> >reservation letter of 2 years ago didn't include the BOS as required.
> >Beware that it took another 2 months to get my registration cert after I
> >sent in the BOS. And then only because I called and made them find it and
> >get it back on track.
> >
> >Regards,
> >Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
> >RV-6 N6GY wiring & systems - Citabria is for sale
> >
> >"Always do right- this will gratify some and astonish the rest." - Mark
> >Twain (1835-1910)
> >
> >>
> >> I keep geeting my application for registration returned by the FAA
> >> because there is no Bill Of Sale. I sent in the receipts for the Kit
>and
> >> explained its a homebuilt, but they insist on a bill of sale as
> >> if I bought a
> >> registered or completed aircraft. Is anyone else having this
> >> problem? Also
> >> thanks for the replies on night legal lighting systems.
> >
>
>What would someone building an airplane from plans do?? Will the FAA
>still require a BOS and who would provide it??
>
>I would assume the receipts for the kit, avionics, engine and
>instruments should/would be sufficient. If you were building from
>plans that is all you would have.
>
>
>John Ammeter
>
>1975 Jensen Healey
>RV-6 (sold 4/98)
>EAA Technical Counselor
>NRA Life Member
>ICQ#48819374
>
>
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
Ok,with all of this hammerhead talk, I am completely confused as to what a
real hammerhead is. I generally lift the pointy end to the sky until the
horizon is pointing 90 degrees from where it was....when the plane stops
going up (or just prior to), I put the rudder on the floor and power the
nose toward the ground....pull up. I admit, I have had zero aerobatics
training.....but the maneuver I just described was easy enough to do in a
C-150....I sure hope the RV-4 I'm building is at least capable of that.
Sometimes I do end up on my back, in a spin, or some other fun
gyration......but that is exactly what I'm up there to accomplish. :-)
Bill
-4
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Question Regarding Prop Guard... |
> > Found the following ad in the latest issue of the Pacific Flyer. Seems
> > like it might be a nice idea for that $5k CS prop. Has anyone had any
> > experiences with this system, good or bad? How does it affect the
> > balance? What if one flys off?
My A&P/IA/Flight Advisor/Tech Counselor/Fighter Pilot friend
thinks the stuff is great. He uses it on his Mooney 3 bladed prop. I
was looking at it yesterday. It's on solid.
I've been warned you MUST let it cure. The STC calls for application
above 60 degrees, with minimum 24 hour cure time.
I'm waiting for warmer temperature to install mine.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: accurate fuel amount measuring |
>
>2) Capacitance senders. 2 types that I know of -- the fancy ones use a rod
>that go all the way out to the end of the tank, high outboard to low
>inboard. Better accuracy and I believe better reliability (no moving parts),
>but more expensive probably a little more work to install. The less fancy
>ones are the ones Vans recently came out with that are lighter and cheaper
>but only install in the inboard tank so have the same accuracy issues that
>the float sender has. But probably more reliable since no moving parts.
>
>4) Gauges -- there are lots of types, EI makes an expensive one that is nice
>but has the drawback that it only shows one tank at a time on the digital
>readout(does have pseudo-analog LEDs that show both thanks tho.) For this
>reason they can't certify it so its only for use on homebuilts. I have a
>Westach single gauge with two needles which doesn't have a great rep. for
>reliability but the price was right and its a single 2 1/4" hole, and has
>worked great for me so far. I don't have any direct experience with Van's
>gauges.
>
Randall did a great job with his summary.
Capacitance senders - Dick Martin, who did the prototype installation
that Van's setup is based on, used one plate at the inboard end, and
a second plate at the outboard end. This should give good accuracy
over the full range of tank volumes. I haven't seen Van's setup, so
I can't confirm whether he uses one plate or two.
EI Gauges - the EI gauge is calibrated by filling the tank one gallon
at a time and telling the gauge how much fuel is in the tank at each
step. This lets the gauge give you the best accuracy possible from
the float sender as the output is linear with the fuel quantity (but
only within the range that the sender can actually measure). Other
gauges simply indicate half when the sender is half way through its
travel, which may be a long way from half fuel.
If I was starting from scratch I would probably use Van's capacitive
senders, but I was too far along with my tanks when that option
became available.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing LG boxes)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Kitz <jkitz(at)greenapple.com> |
Hello Listers;
While on the recent trip to Sun and Fun and back,, I did a lot of
recording gauge readings and switching tanks to get a better picture of
fuel usage and gauge calibration. I have the old Vans gauges. I had
made a layout and checked them on the bench until I had the floats where
I wanted them.
As it turns out, at flight attitude, both tanks take 12 gallon when the
gauge reads 1/4 full. Useful fuel is 15.6 in each tank. Total trip was
7.5 GPH with the 150 hp, but one stretch up central Fla at 8500 ft and
wide open was 11 GPH.
John Kitz
N721JK RV-4
Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 SPAR STEEL PLATES |
Dave-----------I am not looking forward to drilling these plates, but if i
don't i don't get to fly it. Lets see----drill i get to fly-----------
don't drill i've got a flower planter--------humh ------------------got to
drill!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! let you know how it goes. mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
What is a good price on a Garmin 430 these days? Not installed, just the
unit, w/o antennas.
Thanks,
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 SPAR STEEL PLATES |
Mark---- interesting thought. I don't think you could jig the wings close
enough but the oversize bolts might be ok if plan " A " goes bad-------i'll
ask vans. thanks------mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 SPAR STEEL PLATES |
Sam---------great idea---- I need all the help here i can get. It sounds easy
when you talk about it---just drill some holes, right--but the reality is
that it is in a difficult place and is hardened steel. I had a warped left
wing and had to reskin it--i was really glad when i got that behind me. This
steel plate thing may be a hair-pulling experence. thanks---------mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 SPAR STEEL PLATES |
Dave---------another great idea. when i built my kitfox i must have called
the factory a zillion times for info---------------this RV site is the best.
thanks------mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Knight <knightair(at)lv.rmci.net> |
| Subject: | Knight Aircraft Upholstery Products |
RV Builders:
I recently moved to Las Vegas and am now back on line. Please note my new
telephone number and e-mail address. Thank you for your patience!
I have been in the upholstery business for 28 years and have been making
upholstery products for kitplanes for 16 years. I have interior kits
available for RV-4, RV-6, RV-6A, and RV-8. I also have cabin covers and
other items. I am the supplier of upholstery products for several kitplane
manufacturers. A list of other kitplane interior products available upon
request.
For more information, call Knight Aircraft Interiors, Inc., at (702)
207-6681 or e-mail me at knightair(at)lv.rmci.net. If you e-mail for
information, please mention either "Knight" or "Upholstery" in your
reference line so I can give your request my immediate attention. Photos
available upon request.
Sincerely,
KNIGHT AIRCRAFT INTERIORS, INC.
"Fly by Knight" Upholstery Products
Sam Knight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Freeman <cd005677(at)mindspring.com> |
For those who are interested, Ed Storo weighed his RV8 today (and ran
his engine)
Particulars are:
Stock RV8QB with Aero Sport O-360 and CS prop, firewall battery
(concorde).
No paint yet (except interior), fairings not installed.
Day/night VFR panel with Navaid and VM-1000
Empty weight: 1041#
With just pilot on board, CG is approximately 1" forward of the forward
edge of the envelope. Ed will be unable to fly the airplane solo
without aft ballast
There are some construction photos of Ed's airplane on Jerry Carters
website at http://www.rv8asite.homestead.com/mainpage.html
Ed's workmanship is really excellent. He does wish he had the aft
battery though...
James Freeman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
George Orndorff demonstrates an economical way to do it on the systems
video. He uses a pump up sprayer(like you spray your flowers with) and
attaches it to the oil line that goes to the oil sender unit. Disconnect
it from the sender and hook the sprayer hose to it. Just check on it and
add a little pressure occassionally. Takes about 3 or 4 hours to pre-oil
the engine.
Sprayers can be had for less than $20.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 fuselage (Neighbor lady stopped by while walking her dog when I was
working on the fuselage and she said her husband has always wanted to do
that. She said he has always wanted to build a BOAT!! Oh well, guess
that's why they call it the boat stage of construction)
----- Original Message -----
From: Russell Duffy <rv8(at)ispchannel.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 23, 2000 11:02 AM
Subject: RV-List: pre-oil
>
> Greetings,
>
> Does anyone have a link to Lycoming's pub #1241 on pre-oiling? Is it
actually online somewhere
> (couldn't find it on their site). I've also heard about taking out the
bottom plugs and cranking
> the engine over to get pressure before start.
**snip**
> Russell Duffy
> Navarre, FL
> RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (engine details, then off to the hanger)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Van's and Avionics |
How did you decide on the MicroAir comm? From what I've read I like it
enough to consider it, but I have yet to see one in a plane and speak to
someone who actually has one. The 4 watts xmit seems kinda weak, but I
don't know my a** from my elbow when it comes to that electrical stuff.
I'm faced with the same dilemma when it comes to the Allegro engine
monitor...I like it, but don't want to be the only one that has one!!!
Larry Bowen
RV-8 wings
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of David Aronson
> Sent: Sunday, April 23, 2000 12:50 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Van's and Avionics
>
>
> Lister's.
>
> I am ready to order my radio's, vm1000 and navigation instruments. I
> have already cut my panel and desire to order everything from one source
> and have them do the harnesses. Has anyone delt with Van's recently?
> Comments or suggestions. The list of instruments reads like:
> RCA Horizon,RCA Direction, United Airspeed, United Altimeter, United
> Vert ASp, Turn Coordinator, VM 1000, Mithchell RT/Left Fuel, Davtron
> VOR, Davtron OAT, Airpath compas, KLX135A, KT76A, Microair760com. The
> switches I can wire and I haven't spent enough time studying my
> AeroElectric bible. Any reports about Van's service would be
> appreciated.
>
> David Aronson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | Air Compressor type? |
Hi,
This will be my very first post to the list since I'm just starting to
build. I have looked in the FAQ for the answer but couldn't find it.
My local farm supply store has a new Campbell Hausfield 5HP compressor with
a 50 gallon tank. They only want $530 CDN for it on sale. Is there a catch
to this? Is it a particulary bad brand or noisy etc.? Is there something
else I should look for? It runs on 115volt so I don't have to wire a special
outlet for it.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Are Barstad
Loretto, Ontario, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Compressor type? |
Are,
Congratulations on joining the "crazy" world of homebuilders. Campbell
hausfield is a well known "budget" brand of air tools and compressors. They
aren't bad and you usually get your money's worth out of them. The thing to
look at is whether it is a dry or an oil bath compressor. The dry
compressors are loud. And over the long run will not last as long. But
that usually is not an issue with for homebuilders as we don't use them that
much. I have one of those compressors at home and have it outside because
it is so loud.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A cowling going on
>From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Air Compressor type?
>Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2000 23:11:02 -0400
>
>
>Hi,
>
>This will be my very first post to the list since I'm just starting to
>build. I have looked in the FAQ for the answer but couldn't find it.
>
>My local farm supply store has a new Campbell Hausfield 5HP compressor with
>a 50 gallon tank. They only want $530 CDN for it on sale. Is there a catch
>to this? Is it a particulary bad brand or noisy etc.? Is there something
>else I should look for? It runs on 115volt so I don't have to wire a
>special
>outlet for it.
>
>Any advice would be appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>Are Barstad
>Loretto, Ontario, Canada
>
>
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
I was talking to a Garmin tech rep last week about my 295 (which locked up
in flight) and asked her if the 14v version of the 430 was really coming
out, since I plan on installing one, with the 295 for the back seater. She
said it was really coming in June, but said I may be better off with the
28v version with an external converter, for the following reasons. The 14v
version will really be a 28v version with the converter inside. It will
cost more, and because the converter is now inside will get hotter which
will require a mandatory cooling fan. Also, if the internal converter
fails, the whole unit goes T.U. With the 28v version, if the external
converter fails you only loose some of the functions. So I'm going with
the 28v version, someday.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 fuselage stuff and learning how to sand botched paint jobs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>
>Rick, thanks. I also was told that they plan to have a 12 volt 430 this
>summer. BTW, the 420 is the 430 without the VOR/LOC/GS, and the 400 is
>without com.
Spoke with the local Garmin rep last Thursday and he
confirms availability of an all 14v model 430
around July.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steve" <capsteve(at)wzrd.com> |
Steven DiNieri
capsteve(at)wzrd.com
A couple of weeks ago i posted a note asking for recommendations on fair
avionics retailers. I've written for quotes from no less than 28 retailers
in the continental us and Hawaii. a surprising majority was in left field as
far as pricing and an even more surprising number would not even price
certain equipment.
I chose the garmin gns 430, pm7000, Apollo sl40, Apollo sl70, nav 122d/gps,
vm1000, stec30, and ameriking inverter.
I don't want to bash any retailers but it is obvious that some are out
only
for the deep pocket sale with an attached install. needless to say
experimental unfriendly...
now, there were some very good quotes given but none came close to what
john at john stark aviation offered. He was very honest and said he would
work with one simple percentage of markup. he told me what the stuff cost
and marked it up accordingly. proof was when some of the stuff was drop
shipped with the original cod tag from the manufacturer.
i don't want to give prices for fear that i somehow may loose a valuable
source for av electronics. I was able to buy what would have been otherwise
too expensive without his help. I did ask if it was alright to post a note
about him and was told it would be alright so here you are.....
btw.. an honorable mention to jenny at seaerospace who was a close
second........
john stark aviation
706-321-1008
Southeast Aerospace, Inc.
Phone: 321-255-9877
Fax: 321-255-9608
E-mail: jenny(at)seaerospace.com
www.seaerospace.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steve" <capsteve(at)wzrd.com> |
The gns 430 can use 14v for all functions except the com which requires 28v.
so if you use 14v for the nav and gps the only thing that you'll loose with
a bad 28v inverter would be the com.
Steven DiNieri
capsteve(at)wzrd.com
>
> I was talking to a Garmin tech rep last week about my 295
> (which locked up
> in flight) and asked her if the 14v version of the 430 was
> really coming
> out, since I plan on installing one, with the 295 for the
> back seater. She
> said it was really coming in June, but said I may be better
> off with the
> 28v version with an external converter, for the following
> reasons. The 14v
> version will really be a 28v version with the converter
> inside. It will
> cost more, and because the converter is now inside will get
> hotter which
> will require a mandatory cooling fan. Also, if the internal converter
> fails, the whole unit goes T.U. With the 28v version, if the external
> converter fails you only loose some of the functions. So
> I'm going with
> the 28v version, someday.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Compressor type? |
Don't use it that much? Am I doing something wrong? If I'm not drilling,
I'm using the angle die grinder with scotchbrite wheels, if not that then
I'm triming with the straight die grinder and a cut off wheel, if not that
they I'm using the pneumatic squeezer. I'm sure there has not been one
building session where air didn't leave that tank. I thank the air
compressor gods for the cambell hausefield 6hp 60 gallon that home depot
sells for $388. It's quiet (read as HAS OIL IN IT) and I can drill nearly
an entire skin before it kicks on....and then it's not on very long and I
don't even have to stop my conversation to wait for the noise to stop. I
can even hear the radio over it......not a bad compressor at all. Anyone
want the 3.5 horse 11 gallon waste of metal it replaced?
Bill
-4 waiting and waiting on the wings.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 23, 2000 1:35 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Compressor type?
>
> Are,
>
> Congratulations on joining the "crazy" world of homebuilders. Campbell
> hausfield is a well known "budget" brand of air tools and compressors.
They
> aren't bad and you usually get your money's worth out of them. The thing
to
> look at is whether it is a dry or an oil bath compressor. The dry
> compressors are loud. And over the long run will not last as long. But
> that usually is not an issue with for homebuilders as we don't use them
that
> much. I have one of those compressors at home and have it outside because
> it is so loud.
>
> Mike Robertson
> RV-8A cowling going on
>
>
> >From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: RV-List: Air Compressor type?
> >Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2000 23:11:02 -0400
> >
> >
> >Hi,
> >
> >This will be my very first post to the list since I'm just starting to
> >build. I have looked in the FAQ for the answer but couldn't find it.
> >
> >My local farm supply store has a new Campbell Hausfield 5HP compressor
with
> >a 50 gallon tank. They only want $530 CDN for it on sale. Is there a
catch
> >to this? Is it a particulary bad brand or noisy etc.? Is there something
> >else I should look for? It runs on 115volt so I don't have to wire a
> >special
> >outlet for it.
> >
> >Any advice would be appreciated.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Are Barstad
> >Loretto, Ontario, Canada
> >
> >
>
> Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Has anyone done business with AeroSport Power in Canada ?? |
I'll only tell if you promise not to tell my wife. 162 $100.00 bills. This bought
me
an O360-A1A with new crankshaft ECI cylinders, 2 new impulse coupled mags, spin
on
oil filter adapter and Precision Reman carb. There was a bunch of other stuff but
I
don't remember all. All AD's were complied with and the engine was run for approx.
2hrs in a test cell.
Gary
Collins wrote:
>
> Hi Gary,
> Would you share with us how much said engine cost you? What accessories did
> it include?
>
> Thanks
>
> Bob Collins
> Sunnyvale CA
>
> Gary Zilik wrote:
> >
> >
> > Yes, I am running a hopped up O-360-A1A. Bart is one of the most honest people
> > you will ever do business with. We have two AeroSport engines currently flying
> > on the field.
> >
> > Gary Zilik
> > 6A N99PZ Power by AeroSport.
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Farrar" <jfarrar1(at)home.com> |
Bob, I'm going w/ the -430 because of the VOR/LOC/GS features. Do you have
or will you have a 14 to 28 volt converter?
Jeff Farrar, RV8A N4ZJ reserved, Chandler, AZ jfarrar1(at)home.com Wings done,
fuselage almost, fuselage interior and wiring, building RMI units. Do not
archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
>
> Spoke with the local Garmin rep last Thursday and he
> confirms availability of an all 14v model 430
> around July.
>
>
> Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | RV-4 FW Governor Retrofit... |
Hi Listers,
I started the prop governor retrofit on my RV-4 firewall tonight and it
actually is coming out pretty nice. I held little hope that this task
could possibly come out all that well given what was involved, but alas
I am relatively pleased. Here are a few pictures of what's involved if
you've not yet had this pleasure...
http://www.matronics.com/MattsRV4/MiscPictures/GovernorCutout1.jpg
http://www.matronics.com/MattsRV4/MiscPictures/GovernorCutout2.jpg
http://www.matronics.com/MattsRV4/MiscPictures/GovernorCutout3.jpg
http://www.matronics.com/MattsRV4/MiscPictures/GovernorCutout4.jpg
http://www.matronics.com/MattsRV4/MiscPictures/GovernorCutout5.jpg
http://www.matronics.com/MattsRV4/MiscPictures/GovernorCutout6.jpg
http://www.matronics.com/MattsRV4/MiscPictures/GovernorCutout7.jpg
So here's my question. What type of rivets are used for the retrofit?
Considering that I will be using that yucky, gray gunk to seal
everything coupled with the fact that access to both sides of the
rivets will be restricted at best, I'm wondering if some pop rivets
might be in order? I note that the type of rivet isn't called out in
the little instruction sheet that came with the retro kit (a flat sheet
of stainless.) Anyway, what's the consensus on using pop rivets here?
If it seems okay, what type would be best?
As always, thanks to all for the help,
Matt Dralle
RV-4 #1763, N442RV to be...
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: accurate fuel amount measuring |
One more thing I forgot to mention. The original question included the fact
that the poster was going to use a flop tube. That necessitates putting
float senders in the second bay which means you lose some accuracy at the
bottom end. This seems to be one reason people often go for capacitance
senders when flop tubes are installed. I don't think in real life that's
really very important -- if you let it get to that point you've pushed it
too far anyway.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~75 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Lutes" <rlutes(at)owc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 14v Garmin 430 |
The Avionic's shop that installed a 430 in my Cessna last summer HIGHLY
recommended a cooling fan (even though the sales brochure says it's not
required). It's cheap insurance for a $6500 box.
Steve is right. 28 VDC is only required for the com on the 430. I have a #2
com that's 14 VDC in case the Ameriking 28 VDC converter dies. 165 hours so
far without a problem.
Rick
RV-4 with a really slow loran...
> The GNS 430 can use 14v for all functions except the com which requires
28v.
> so if you use 14v for the nav and GPS the only thing that you'll loose
with
> a bad 28v inverter would be the com.
>
> Steven DiNieri
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net>
>
> I was talking to a Garmin tech rep last week about my 295 (which locked up
> in flight) and asked her if the 14v version of the 430 was really coming
> out, since I plan on installing one, with the 295 for the back seater.
She
> said it was really coming in June, but said I may be better off with the
> 28v version with an external converter, for the following reasons. The
14v
> version will really be a 28v version with the converter inside. It will
> cost more, and because the converter is now inside will get hotter which
> will require a mandatory cooling fan. Also, if the internal converter
> fails, the whole unit goes T.U. With the 28v version, if the external
> converter fails you only loose some of the functions. So I'm going with
> the 28v version, someday.
>
> Mike Robbins
> RV8Q 80591 fuselage stuff and learning how to sand botched paint jobs.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chat Daniel" <cdaniel(at)fnbsouth.com> |
James...
Were the wings dry when weight and balance was done?
Chat Daniel N678RB
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of James Freeman
Sent: Sunday, April 23, 2000 8:41 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV8 W&B
For those who are interested, Ed Storo weighed his RV8 today (and ran
his engine)
Particulars are:
Stock RV8QB with Aero Sport O-360 and CS prop, firewall battery
(concorde).
No paint yet (except interior), fairings not installed.
Day/night VFR panel with Navaid and VM-1000
Empty weight: 1041#
With just pilot on board, CG is approximately 1" forward of the forward
edge of the envelope. Ed will be unable to fly the airplane solo
without aft ballast
There are some construction photos of Ed's airplane on Jerry Carters
website at http://www.rv8asite.homestead.com/mainpage.html
Ed's workmanship is really excellent. He does wish he had the aft
battery though...
James Freeman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Karl Schilling <k_schilling(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Registration Problems |
yes they have been requiring one for some time. contact van's they will
send you one with the word aircraft crossed out and the word kit added.
van's will use your customer as the serial #, if you want a number
different from that which is your choice as the builder white out the
customer number and add your own serial # before sending it to the FAA. I
have just gone through this with the FAA, it took me from the middle of
Dec. till last thur. to get my permanent registration! Also on the
affidavit of ownership if your wife/and or a partner are listed as a co
owner on the bill of sale make a place for them to sign on the affidavit of
ownership and have it notraized also! The instructions do not tell you this
but take form someone who has been there!!!! Karl RV-8 70 hrs and
grinning more every day!
-----Original Message-----
From: PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com [SMTP:PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com]
Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2000 07:02
Subject: RV-List: Registration Problems
I keep geeting my application for registration returned by the FAA
because there is no Bill Of Sale. I sent in the receipts for the Kit and
explained its a homebuilt, but they insist on a bill of sale as if I bought
a
registered or completed aircraft. Is anyone else having this problem?
Also
thanks for the replies on night legal lighting systems.
Dave Beizer
RV6A Final Assembly
________________________________________________________________________________
After having painting the RV-6 in out hanger the cg shifted considerably. Get
some input from other 8 builders if , after paint, you are where you want to
be....cg wise....
cd005677(at)mindspring.com on 04/23/2000 08:40:58 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: RV8 W&B
For those who are interested, Ed Storo weighed his RV8 today (and ran
his engine)
Particulars are:
Stock RV8QB with Aero Sport O-360 and CS prop, firewall battery
(concorde).
No paint yet (except interior), fairings not installed.
Day/night VFR panel with Navaid and VM-1000
Empty weight: 1041#
With just pilot on board, CG is approximately 1" forward of the forward
edge of the envelope. Ed will be unable to fly the airplane solo
without aft ballast
There are some construction photos of Ed's airplane on Jerry Carters
website at http://www.rv8asite.homestead.com/mainpage.html
Ed's workmanship is really excellent. He does wish he had the aft
battery though...
James Freeman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Registration Problems |
The FAA started to enforce that old rule about 2 years ago.
Van's will be happy to send you a bill of sale. If you bought it from someone
else, Van's could send that someone else a bill of sale and the someone send you
that and a bill of sale to you. If it's totally impossible to complete that chain
of bills of sales stretching from Vans all the way to you, you could register it
as "plans built from aircraft quality parts", which is a true statement.
Don't ask me how I know.
Finn
PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I keep geeting my application for registration returned by the FAA
> because there is no Bill Of Sale. I sent in the receipts for the Kit and
> explained its a homebuilt, but they insist on a bill of sale as if I bought a
> registered or completed aircraft. Is anyone else having this problem? Also
> thanks for the replies on night legal lighting systems.
>
> Dave Beizer
> RV6A Final Assembly
>
Click here for FREE Internet Access and Email
________________________________________________________________________________
rv6bldr(at)home.com on 04/23/2000 09:25:12 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: pre-oil
Has anyone who used this method of pre-oil have any thoughts ? Any special
considerations other than remove sender, hook up pressure pot and let her rip?
George Orndorff demonstrates an economical way to do it on the systems
video. He uses a pump up sprayer(like you spray your flowers with) and
attaches it to the oil line that goes to the oil sender unit. Disconnect
it from the sender and hook the sprayer hose to it. Just check on it and
add a little pressure occassionally. Takes about 3 or 4 hours to pre-oil
the engine.
Sprayers can be had for less than $20.
>
> Greetings,
>
> Does anyone have a link to Lycoming's pub #1241 on pre-oiling? Is it
actually online somewhere
> (couldn't find it on their site). I've also heard about taking out the
bottom plugs and cranking
> the engine over to get pressure before start.
**snip**
> Russell Duffy
> Navarre, FL
> RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (engine details, then off to the hanger)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Petri" <dpetri(at)uswest.net> |
Could someone provide a website or phone for Aerosport?
If you did already, my apologies... must've missed it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
>
>For those who are interested, Ed Storo weighed his RV8 today (and ran
>his engine)
>
>Particulars are:
>
>Stock RV8QB with Aero Sport O-360 and CS prop, firewall battery
>(concorde).
>No paint yet (except interior), fairings not installed.
>Day/night VFR panel with Navaid and VM-1000
>
>Empty weight: 1041#
>
>With just pilot on board, CG is approximately 1" forward of the forward
>edge of the envelope. Ed will be unable to fly the airplane solo
>without aft ballast
>
>There are some construction photos of Ed's airplane on Jerry Carters
>website at http://www.rv8asite.homestead.com/mainpage.html
>
>Ed's workmanship is really excellent. He does wish he had the aft
>battery though...
>
>James Freeman
>
James,
I'm interested in more info, so I can decide which battery location
to go for. I'm building an O-360 RV-8 with FI and CS prop + light
weight accessories.
Was the interior primed? Yes, no, partially? If partially, which parts?
Is the engine carbureted or fuel injected?
Light weight or heavy starter, alternator?
How many mags?
Did Ed make any deviations from the plans that could have affected
the empty CG?
Are you 100% sure the weight and balance is accurate? Accurate
scales, fuselage well leveled, tanks empty, no loose items in the
plane?
Was the CG with Ed in the plane a calculation based on the empty CG,
his weight and moment arm, or did you actually weigh the plane with
him in it? Maybe the moment arm for the pilot is not quite right.
How much does Ed weigh?
Have you crunched the numbers to see what the CG would be with an aft battery?
I guess I will drill the holes for the aft battery, so I can move it
back there if need be. I've got lots of time to think about this at
the rate I'm going.
Thanks,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing LG boxes)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <rv8abuild(at)mindspring.com> |
>
> Could someone provide a website or phone for Aerosport?
> If you did already, my apologies... must've missed it.
>
Aero Sport Power
2965 Airport Drive
Kamloops, B.C. Canada V2B 7W8
Phone (250) 376-2955 Fax: (250 376-1995
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Compressor type? |
Are,
The CH compressors are a good value. They have been cheapening them over
the years but they are still much better than Sears. Check to see if it at
least has cast iron cylinder liners -- really good compressors have whole
cast iron pumps. They are quieter.
Note by the way that 15A at 115V produces less than 2 REAL horsepower. CH
and most other non-commercial compressor manufacturers lie blatantly about
HP specs.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL
-----Original Message-----
From: Are Barstad <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Date: Sunday, April 23, 2000 10:10 PM
Subject: RV-List: Air Compressor type?
>
>Hi,
>
>This will be my very first post to the list since I'm just starting to
>build. I have looked in the FAQ for the answer but couldn't find it.
>
>My local farm supply store has a new Campbell Hausfield 5HP compressor with
>a 50 gallon tank. They only want $530 CDN for it on sale. Is there a catch
>to this? Is it a particulary bad brand or noisy etc.? Is there something
>else I should look for? It runs on 115volt so I don't have to wire a
special
>outlet for it.
>
>Any advice would be appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>Are Barstad
>Loretto, Ontario, Canada
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Freeman <cd005677(at)mindspring.com> |
> (snip)
>
> James,
>
> I'm interested in more info, so I can decide which battery location
> to go for. I'm building an O-360 RV-8 with FI and CS prop + light
> weight accessories.
>
> Was the interior primed? Yes, no, partially? If partially, which parts?
Just the wash primer normally in the quick builds
>
>
> Is the engine carbureted or fuel injected?
carburated
>
>
> Light weight or heavy starter, alternator?
I -think- the lightweight accessories but I'm not sure. The engine was biolt by
Bart laLonde
>
>
> How many mags?
>
> Did Ed make any deviations from the plans that could have affected
> the empty CG?
Not that I'm aware of
>
>
> Are you 100% sure the weight and balance is accurate? Accurate
> scales, fuselage well leveled, tanks empty, no loose items in th
>
> plane?
All of the above. Of course there may have been an error, but I tend to trust
Ed. this is his third homebuilt, the first two were scratchbuilt. His last
homebuilt was a -full size-, museum quality Bristol Fighter. The RV-8 is, by
comparison, child's play.
>
>
> Was the CG with Ed in the plane a calculation based on the empty CG,
> his weight and moment arm, or did you actually weigh the plane with
> him in it? Maybe the moment arm for the pilot is not quite right.
Calculated AFAIK. the CG is almost three inches out empty
>
> How much does Ed weigh?
about 160#
>
>
> Have you crunched the numbers to see what the CG would be with an aft battery?
not yet
>
>
> I guess I will drill the holes for the aft battery, so I can move it
> back there if need be. I've got lots of time to think about this at
Obviously, this will be rechecked carefully, and I'll post updates. I will try
to get more particulars from Ed in the next day or two. Some details may be
picked up from the photos on Jerry's website, but I can't (yet) tell the heavey
from light accessories just by looking at them.
>
> the rate I'm going.
You still might fly before I do ;-)
>
>
> Thanks,
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing LG boxes)
> Ottawa, Canada
James Freeman
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Compressor type? |
Ditto...I have the same compressor, that replaced a Sears 5HP 15 Gallon dry
and very loud piece of junk. I love the new CH 60 gallon...it has a
whopping 10.5 CFM that will run anything, and it always keeps up, even
running die grinders. The difference between spending $250 and $400 on a
compressor is amazing. The only drawback is that I don't have 220 V in my
hanger, so I will have to pay an electrician to wire it....
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 23, 2000 9:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Compressor type?
>
> Don't use it that much? Am I doing something wrong? If I'm not drilling,
> I'm using the angle die grinder with scotchbrite wheels, if not that then
> I'm triming with the straight die grinder and a cut off wheel, if not that
> they I'm using the pneumatic squeezer. I'm sure there has not been one
> building session where air didn't leave that tank. I thank the air
> compressor gods for the cambell hausefield 6hp 60 gallon that home depot
> sells for $388. It's quiet (read as HAS OIL IN IT) and I can drill nearly
> an entire skin before it kicks on....and then it's not on very long and I
> don't even have to stop my conversation to wait for the noise to stop. I
> can even hear the radio over it......not a bad compressor at all. Anyone
> want the 3.5 horse 11 gallon waste of metal it replaced?
>
> Bill
> -4 waiting and waiting on the wings.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, April 23, 2000 1:35 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Compressor type?
>
>
>
> >
> > Are,
> >
> > Congratulations on joining the "crazy" world of homebuilders. Campbell
> > hausfield is a well known "budget" brand of air tools and compressors.
> They
> > aren't bad and you usually get your money's worth out of them. The
thing
> to
> > look at is whether it is a dry or an oil bath compressor. The dry
> > compressors are loud. And over the long run will not last as long. But
> > that usually is not an issue with for homebuilders as we don't use them
> that
> > much. I have one of those compressors at home and have it outside
because
> > it is so loud.
> >
> > Mike Robertson
> > RV-8A cowling going on
> >
> >
> > >From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >To:
> > >Subject: RV-List: Air Compressor type?
> > >Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2000 23:11:02 -0400
> > >
> > >
> > >Hi,
> > >
> > >This will be my very first post to the list since I'm just starting to
> > >build. I have looked in the FAQ for the answer but couldn't find it.
> > >
> > >My local farm supply store has a new Campbell Hausfield 5HP compressor
> with
> > >a 50 gallon tank. They only want $530 CDN for it on sale. Is there a
> catch
> > >to this? Is it a particulary bad brand or noisy etc.? Is there
something
> > >else I should look for? It runs on 115volt so I don't have to wire a
> > >special
> > >outlet for it.
> > >
> > >Any advice would be appreciated.
> > >
> > >Thanks,
> > >Are Barstad
> > >Loretto, Ontario, Canada
> > >
> > >
> >
> > Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Dear Chat,
It would be incorrect to weigh for empty weight with fuel onboard. Oil is
included in the engine.
I am having second thoughts on the battery in the rear. If done so it will
limit you to the weight in the rear seat more so than batt. forward.
Fortunetly we have the ability to put weight in the forward bagg compartment
to help offset the rear weight.
Ed Storo rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
Dear Kevin,
The engine is as received from Aero Sport O-360 A1A with light weight
starter, a constant speed prop, MA4-5 carb, 2 mags. I.e. totally stock.
The interior is painted in the cockpit area. 1 raqdio, 1 transponder, VM1000,
VFR flight instuments, again totally stock.
I guarentee the weights are correct. ( done with strain guage type
instrument, i.e. this is as professional as it gets)
Remember the empty CG can be anywhere. It is with one pilot and no fuel that
you hit the critical.
Hope this helps.
Ed Storo rv-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)ispchannel.com> |
> > I'm interested in more info, so I can decide which battery location
> > to go for. I'm building an O-360 RV-8 with FI and CS prop + light
> > weight accessories.
FWIW, there should be two more data points in the next 4-6 weeks. Bob Hargrave
is finishing up
an -8 that sounds identical to Ed's (Bart O-360/CS/front battery), and I'll be
finishing my -8 with
new O-360/Sensenich aluminum/aft battery. Yes, that's an aft battery for the fixed
pitch prop, and
I'm convinced I won't regret it.
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (just what is that FAB supposed to fit- sure not an -8)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gail Anderson <sga(at)cloudnet.com> |
CANCEL
ERSF2B(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Dear Chat,
> It would be incorrect to weigh for empty weight with fuel onboard. Oil is
> included in the engine.
> I am having second thoughts on the battery in the rear. If done so it will
> limit you to the weight in the rear seat more so than batt. forward.
> Fortunetly we have the ability to put weight in the forward bagg compartment
> to help offset the rear weight.
>
> Ed Storo rv8
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gail Anderson <sga(at)cloudnet.com> |
CANCEL
ERSF2B(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Dear Kevin,
> The engine is as received from Aero Sport O-360 A1A with light weight
> starter, a constant speed prop, MA4-5 carb, 2 mags. I.e. totally stock.
> The interior is painted in the cockpit area. 1 raqdio, 1 transponder, VM1000,
> VFR flight instuments, again totally stock.
> I guarentee the weights are correct. ( done with strain guage type
> instrument, i.e. this is as professional as it gets)
> Remember the empty CG can be anywhere. It is with one pilot and no fuel that
> you hit the critical.
> Hope this helps.
>
> Ed Storo rv-8
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: pre-oil(free) |
In a message dated 4/24/00 10:22:00 AM Eastern Daylight Time, pcondon(at)csc.com
writes:
<< Has anyone who used this method of pre-oil have any thoughts ? Any
special
considerations other than remove sender, hook up pressure pot and let her
rip?
George Orndorff demonstrates an economical way to do it on the systems
video. He uses a pump up sprayer(like you spray your flowers with) and
attaches it to the oil line that goes to the oil sender unit. Disconnect
it from the sender and hook the sprayer hose to it. Just check on it and
add a little pressure occassionally. Takes about 3 or 4 hours to pre-oil
the engine.
Sprayers can be had for less than $20. >>
I just cranked my new O-320 for the first time. To preoil it, I used a Don
George(engine builder in Orlando) method. Plug the bottom spark plugs and
crank the prop over by hand until you get 30 to 40 psi oil pressure. When I
started the engine it was only a matter of seconds until I was showing oil
pressure and the oil level on the stick did not drop between first start and
after it ran 10-15 minutes, which says I had already filled every thing with
oil with the hand prop technique. Can't get much simpler than that.
Bernie Kerr, 6A N60WM almost ready for inspection, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
>Ok, with all of this hammerhead talk, I am completely confused as to what a
>real hammerhead is....
Hammerhead stall: go straight up, pivot-turn on a wing tip, come straight
back down. This is a common maneuver done in air shows because it looks
cool from the ground, especially with the smoke on. It takes some talent to
do it well (like everything) and to keep from getting in trouble, but is
not rocket science.
The key is to time the turn at the top to pivot on the inside wing tip (or
on a point outside the wing tip). Shaun Tucker does one that looks like his
wing tip is tacked to the sky. As you go vertical, you are at full
throttle. As you slow near the top (feeling the airplane slightly buffet,
not from the wings stalling, but from the power of the propwash around the
fuselage/tail), aggressive full left rudder (if this is a left turn) to
pivot. At the "top", the upper wing is flying faster than the lower wing
and will tend to roll the airplane (to the left); so right aileron
(sometimes full aileron) is need to counter that, then SLIGHT forward stick
to counteract the gyroscopic forces of the prop. As you come through to
vertical down, at about 45 degrees, opposite right rudder is needed to keep
from "swinging through" your down line. Neutral controls, throttle back,
establish a down line and begin pulling out to keep from over speeding.
This feels like the back side of a loop.
Things to avoid:
Tail slide. Yikes. If you don't apply rudder in time, you will be flying
backwards, resulting in a whip stall. This is hard on tail feathers and
underwear. I believe some elevator skin cracking was the result of tail
slides on some RVs. What to do if you slide: full AFT stick. The airplane
will arch over on its back, and head vertical down again, and you recover.
Pulling out too soon: the airplane's airspeed is zero at the top and you DO
have time to establish your down line before pulling out.
Pulling out too late: excessive speeds and G forces.
Improper input of controls at the top or beginning of the downline causing
an inverted spin. Yikes. Too much forward stick at the top, not
neutralizing controls at the beginning of the down line. Pitts and Eagles
do this pretty easily; I don't know about the RVs.
Not getting proper training before doing any of this stuff. Aerobatics is
easy when you know what you are doing. It's staying out of trouble, and
getting out of trouble once you are in it that are important parts of
getting instruction.
Try instead: Wing over: a steep turn at higher speed and less angle than a
hammerhead that feels pretty radical, is easier to do and keeps you further
from the problems of a botched hammerhead.
GET AEROBATIC INSTRUCTION BEFORE DOING THIS STUFF. It is fun, expands your
knowledge of flying, makes you a better pilot and can keep you out of trouble.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Making the horizon move around, some.....
There was the time I was in a Cherokee 140, final approach and got caught
in a wing tip vortex from a jet.......oh, never mind.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
>It would be incorrect to weigh for empty weight with fuel onboard. Oil is
>included in the engine.
Empty weight is what the airplane weights with all the stuff you will fly
with, without passengers, fuel and baggage. It should include your fire
extinguisher (if it is bolted to the airplane and there all the time), ELT,
engine oil, upholstery (leave the seat cushions in), and any unusable fuel.
It isn't for bragging rights (how little your airplane weighs) but proper
weight and balance. There are some airplanes flying that have not had a new
W&B since being painted. Bad idea.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Air Compressor type? |
I have the same CH 60 gallon. I wired mine for 220v (less voltage drop and
leaves me with my 110 vac circuits not being drawn against by the compressor).
Very glad I went with the bigger one. Takes up very little room because its
tall. I can blow out my 9 zone 55 head sprinkler system myself (tank capacity).A
12$ 1/2 inch air wrench lets me rotate my tires with out breaking a
sweat......Blows out all the fiberglass powder when I sand my F/G parts (yuk),
My blow up doll is ready in seconds............just seeing if anyone reads
these replys.....
rv8er(at)home.com on 04/24/2000 11:00:49 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Compressor type?
Ditto...I have the same compressor, that replaced a Sears 5HP 15 Gallon dry
and very loud piece of junk. I love the new CH 60 gallon...it has a
whopping 10.5 CFM that will run anything, and it always keeps up, even
running die grinders. The difference between spending $250 and $400 on a
compressor is amazing. The only drawback is that I don't have 220 V in my
hanger, so I will have to pay an electrician to wire it....
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 23, 2000 9:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Compressor type?
>
> Don't use it that much? Am I doing something wrong? If I'm not drilling,
> I'm using the angle die grinder with scotchbrite wheels, if not that then
> I'm triming with the straight die grinder and a cut off wheel, if not that
> they I'm using the pneumatic squeezer. I'm sure there has not been one
> building session where air didn't leave that tank. I thank the air
> compressor gods for the cambell hausefield 6hp 60 gallon that home depot
> sells for $388. It's quiet (read as HAS OIL IN IT) and I can drill nearly
> an entire skin before it kicks on....and then it's not on very long and I
> don't even have to stop my conversation to wait for the noise to stop. I
> can even hear the radio over it......not a bad compressor at all. Anyone
> want the 3.5 horse 11 gallon waste of metal it replaced?
>
> Bill
> -4 waiting and waiting on the wings.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, April 23, 2000 1:35 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Compressor type?
>
>
>
> >
> > Are,
> >
> > Congratulations on joining the "crazy" world of homebuilders. Campbell
> > hausfield is a well known "budget" brand of air tools and compressors.
> They
> > aren't bad and you usually get your money's worth out of them. The
thing
> to
> > look at is whether it is a dry or an oil bath compressor. The dry
> > compressors are loud. And over the long run will not last as long. But
> > that usually is not an issue with for homebuilders as we don't use them
> that
> > much. I have one of those compressors at home and have it outside
because
> > it is so loud.
> >
> > Mike Robertson
> > RV-8A cowling going on
> >
> >
> > >From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >To:
> > >Subject: RV-List: Air Compressor type?
> > >Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2000 23:11:02 -0400
> > >
> > >
> > >Hi,
> > >
> > >This will be my very first post to the list since I'm just starting to
> > >build. I have looked in the FAQ for the answer but couldn't find it.
> > >
> > >My local farm supply store has a new Campbell Hausfield 5HP compressor
> with
> > >a 50 gallon tank. They only want $530 CDN for it on sale. Is there a
> catch
> > >to this? Is it a particulary bad brand or noisy etc.? Is there
something
> > >else I should look for? It runs on 115volt so I don't have to wire a
> > >special
> > >outlet for it.
> > >
> > >Any advice would be appreciated.
> > >
> > >Thanks,
> > >Are Barstad
> > >Loretto, Ontario, Canada
> > >
> > >
> >
> > Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Registration Problems |
OK gang....Here is the latest POOP!!
I just got off the phone with the registry in OKC and Barbara at Van's.
Because of a recommendation by the NTSB related to the John Denver accident,
the registry now needs to track amatuer built aircraft more closely. They
want to track defects found in accidents to see if a kit manufacturer may
need to alter their design. In order to do that they say they need to
ensure a legal chain of possession. That "legal" chain of possession can
only be insured with a Bill of Sale that includes the words "transfer" or
"release all rights" or somesuch. I don't understand this one but there it
is.
When I called Barbara about this she said that they knew about it and have
decided to only issue a Bill of Sale when we call. Why?? Because so many of
our projects shift from hand to hand before it actually gets finished and a
Bill of Sale needs to be made out to the person registering the plane. And
she said that many of us lose our paperwork and she needs to reduce the time
she spends on paperwork. That is one point that I can relate to with her.
So, about two weeks prior to the time when you plan on submitting your
registration contact barbara at Van's and ask for your Bill of Sale. She
said that one side benefit here is that they also can keep track of where
all the kits end up in case they need to contact that owner for whatever
reason.
One other not here is also a change for the plans built planes here. I
would not include this here except I know there are several lurkers here
that may need this info. There is a new FAA Form 8050-88 Affadavit of
Amatuer Built Aircraft that needs to be submitted with their request for
registration. That form is available on the Regiostry website at:
http://registry.faa.gov/frame.htm. (Sorry, but I don't know how to install a
hyperlink). Click on the forms section and you will find what you need.
This form has a section at the bottom for a notary and the notary MUST be
done. Prior to this that form was only include with the request for an
Airworthiness Certificate but not any longer. It must be submitted for both
now.
I irony here is that my partner and I submitted our registration last week
and it will now get kicked back to us. AW...the fickle finger of fate
stricks again.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A QB
"Das Fed"
>From: PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Registration Problems
>Date: Sat, 22 Apr 2000 20:02:00 EDT
>
>
> I keep geeting my application for registration returned by the FAA
>because there is no Bill Of Sale. I sent in the receipts for the Kit and
>explained its a homebuilt, but they insist on a bill of sale as if I bought
>a
>registered or completed aircraft. Is anyone else having this problem?
>Also
>thanks for the replies on night legal lighting systems.
>
>Dave Beizer
>RV6A Final Assembly
>
>
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Alex,
They are running around the $7500 to $8000 range. And they come with the
antenna in the box.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV List"
>Subject: RV-List: Garmin 430
>Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2000 18:58:49 -0500
>
>
>What is a good price on a Garmin 430 these days? Not installed, just the
>unit, w/o antennas.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Alex Peterson
>Maple Grove, MN
>
>
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
OK...This was a early price out here in the wild blue pacific. I guess I
had to pay extra.....
Disregard my last!!!
>From: "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin 430
>Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2000 08:34:44 HST
>
>
>Alex,
>
>They are running around the $7500 to $8000 range. And they come with the
>antenna in the box.
>
>Mike Robertson
>RV-8A
>
>
> >From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: "RV List"
> >Subject: RV-List: Garmin 430
> >Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2000 18:58:49 -0500
> >
> >
> >What is a good price on a Garmin 430 these days? Not installed, just the
> >unit, w/o antennas.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Alex Peterson
> >Maple Grove, MN
> >
> >
>
>Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Registration Problems |
What NO BREAK for DAS FED????
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, April 24, 2000 3:13 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Registration Problems
>
> OK gang....Here is the latest POOP!!
>
> I just got off the phone with the registry in OKC and Barbara at Van's.
>
> Because of a recommendation by the NTSB related to the John Denver
accident,
> the registry now needs to track amatuer built aircraft more closely. They
> want to track defects found in accidents to see if a kit manufacturer may
> need to alter their design. In order to do that they say they need to
> ensure a legal chain of possession. That "legal" chain of possession can
> only be insured with a Bill of Sale that includes the words "transfer" or
> "release all rights" or somesuch. I don't understand this one but there
it
> is.
>
> When I called Barbara about this she said that they knew about it and have
> decided to only issue a Bill of Sale when we call. Why?? Because so many
of
> our projects shift from hand to hand before it actually gets finished and
a
> Bill of Sale needs to be made out to the person registering the plane.
And
> she said that many of us lose our paperwork and she needs to reduce the
time
> she spends on paperwork. That is one point that I can relate to with her.
> So, about two weeks prior to the time when you plan on submitting your
> registration contact barbara at Van's and ask for your Bill of Sale. She
> said that one side benefit here is that they also can keep track of where
> all the kits end up in case they need to contact that owner for whatever
> reason.
>
> One other not here is also a change for the plans built planes here. I
> would not include this here except I know there are several lurkers here
> that may need this info. There is a new FAA Form 8050-88 Affadavit of
> Amatuer Built Aircraft that needs to be submitted with their request for
> registration. That form is available on the Regiostry website at:
> http://registry.faa.gov/frame.htm. (Sorry, but I don't know how to install
a
> hyperlink). Click on the forms section and you will find what you need.
> This form has a section at the bottom for a notary and the notary MUST be
> done. Prior to this that form was only include with the request for an
> Airworthiness Certificate but not any longer. It must be submitted for
both
> now.
>
> I irony here is that my partner and I submitted our registration last week
> and it will now get kicked back to us. AW...the fickle finger of fate
> stricks again.
>
> Mike Robertson
> RV-8A QB
> "Das Fed"
>
>
> >From: PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: Registration Problems
> >Date: Sat, 22 Apr 2000 20:02:00 EDT
> >
> >
> > I keep geeting my application for registration returned by the FAA
> >because there is no Bill Of Sale. I sent in the receipts for the Kit and
> >explained its a homebuilt, but they insist on a bill of sale as if I
bought
> >a
> >registered or completed aircraft. Is anyone else having this problem?
> >Also
> >thanks for the replies on night legal lighting systems.
> >
> >Dave Beizer
> >RV6A Final Assembly
> >
> >
>
> Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gail Anderson <sga(at)cloudnet.com> |
CANCEL
Gail Anderson wrote:
>
>
> CANCEL
>
> ERSF2B(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > Dear Chat,
> > It would be incorrect to weigh for empty weight with fuel onboard. Oil is
> > included in the engine.
> > I am having second thoughts on the battery in the rear. If done so it will
> > limit you to the weight in the rear seat more so than batt. forward.
> > Fortunetly we have the ability to put weight in the forward bagg compartment
> > to help offset the rear weight.
> >
> > Ed Storo rv8
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gail Anderson <sga(at)cloudnet.com> |
CANCEL
Gail Anderson wrote:
>
>
> CANCEL
>
> ERSF2B(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > Dear Kevin,
> > The engine is as received from Aero Sport O-360 A1A with light weight
> > starter, a constant speed prop, MA4-5 carb, 2 mags. I.e. totally stock.
> > The interior is painted in the cockpit area. 1 raqdio, 1 transponder, VM1000,
> > VFR flight instuments, again totally stock.
> > I guarentee the weights are correct. ( done with strain guage type
> > instrument, i.e. this is as professional as it gets)
> > Remember the empty CG can be anywhere. It is with one pilot and no fuel that
> > you hit the critical.
> > Hope this helps.
> >
> > Ed Storo rv-8
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gail Anderson <sga(at)cloudnet.com> |
CANCEL
KostaLewis wrote:
>
>
> >It would be incorrect to weigh for empty weight with fuel onboard. Oil is
> >included in the engine.
>
> Empty weight is what the airplane weights with all the stuff you will fly
> with, without passengers, fuel and baggage. It should include your fire
> extinguisher (if it is bolted to the airplane and there all the time), ELT,
> engine oil, upholstery (leave the seat cushions in), and any unusable fuel.
> It isn't for bragging rights (how little your airplane weighs) but proper
> weight and balance. There are some airplanes flying that have not had a new
> W&B since being painted. Bad idea.
>
> Michael
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gail Anderson <sga(at)cloudnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Registration Problems |
CANCEL
Michael Robertson wrote:
>
>
> OK gang....Here is the latest POOP!!
>
> I just got off the phone with the registry in OKC and Barbara at Van's.
>
> Because of a recommendation by the NTSB related to the John Denver accident,
> the registry now needs to track amatuer built aircraft more closely. They
> want to track defects found in accidents to see if a kit manufacturer may
> need to alter their design. In order to do that they say they need to
> ensure a legal chain of possession. That "legal" chain of possession can
> only be insured with a Bill of Sale that includes the words "transfer" or
> "release all rights" or somesuch. I don't understand this one but there it
> is.
>
> When I called Barbara about this she said that they knew about it and have
> decided to only issue a Bill of Sale when we call. Why?? Because so many of
> our projects shift from hand to hand before it actually gets finished and a
> Bill of Sale needs to be made out to the person registering the plane. And
> she said that many of us lose our paperwork and she needs to reduce the time
> she spends on paperwork. That is one point that I can relate to with her.
> So, about two weeks prior to the time when you plan on submitting your
> registration contact barbara at Van's and ask for your Bill of Sale. She
> said that one side benefit here is that they also can keep track of where
> all the kits end up in case they need to contact that owner for whatever
> reason.
>
> One other not here is also a change for the plans built planes here. I
> would not include this here except I know there are several lurkers here
> that may need this info. There is a new FAA Form 8050-88 Affadavit of
> Amatuer Built Aircraft that needs to be submitted with their request for
> registration. That form is available on the Regiostry website at:
> http://registry.faa.gov/frame.htm. (Sorry, but I don't know how to install a
> hyperlink). Click on the forms section and you will find what you need.
> This form has a section at the bottom for a notary and the notary MUST be
> done. Prior to this that form was only include with the request for an
> Airworthiness Certificate but not any longer. It must be submitted for both
> now.
>
> I irony here is that my partner and I submitted our registration last week
> and it will now get kicked back to us. AW...the fickle finger of fate
> stricks again.
>
> Mike Robertson
> RV-8A QB
> "Das Fed"
>
> >From: PLTDBEEZER(at)aol.com
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: Registration Problems
> >Date: Sat, 22 Apr 2000 20:02:00 EDT
> >
> >
> > I keep geeting my application for registration returned by the FAA
> >because there is no Bill Of Sale. I sent in the receipts for the Kit and
> >explained its a homebuilt, but they insist on a bill of sale as if I bought
> >a
> >registered or completed aircraft. Is anyone else having this problem?
> >Also
> >thanks for the replies on night legal lighting systems.
> >
> >Dave Beizer
> >RV6A Final Assembly
> >
> >
>
> Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gail Anderson <sga(at)cloudnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: pre-oil(free) |
CANCEL
Rv660wm(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 4/24/00 10:22:00 AM Eastern Daylight Time, pcondon(at)csc.com
> writes:
>
> << Has anyone who used this method of pre-oil have any thoughts ? Any
> special
> considerations other than remove sender, hook up pressure pot and let her
> rip?
>
> George Orndorff demonstrates an economical way to do it on the systems
> video. He uses a pump up sprayer(like you spray your flowers with) and
> attaches it to the oil line that goes to the oil sender unit. Disconnect
> it from the sender and hook the sprayer hose to it. Just check on it and
> add a little pressure occassionally. Takes about 3 or 4 hours to pre-oil
> the engine.
> Sprayers can be had for less than $20. >>
>
> I just cranked my new O-320 for the first time. To preoil it, I used a Don
> George(engine builder in Orlando) method. Plug the bottom spark plugs and
> crank the prop over by hand until you get 30 to 40 psi oil pressure. When I
> started the engine it was only a matter of seconds until I was showing oil
> pressure and the oil level on the stick did not drop between first start and
> after it ran 10-15 minutes, which says I had already filled every thing with
> oil with the hand prop technique. Can't get much simpler than that.
>
> Bernie Kerr, 6A N60WM almost ready for inspection, SE Fla
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gail Anderson <sga(at)cloudnet.com> |
CANCEL
Russell Duffy wrote:
>
>
> > > I'm interested in more info, so I can decide which battery location
> > > to go for. I'm building an O-360 RV-8 with FI and CS prop + light
> > > weight accessories.
>
> FWIW, there should be two more data points in the next 4-6 weeks. Bob Hargrave
is finishing up
> an -8 that sounds identical to Ed's (Bart O-360/CS/front battery), and I'll be
finishing my -8 with
> new O-360/Sensenich aluminum/aft battery. Yes, that's an aft battery for the
fixed pitch prop, and
> I'm convinced I won't regret it.
>
> Russell Duffy
> Navarre, FL
> RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (just what is that FAB supposed to fit- sure not an -8)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gail Anderson <sga(at)cloudnet.com> |
CANCEL
Michael Robertson wrote:
>
>
> OK...This was a early price out here in the wild blue pacific. I guess I
> had to pay extra.....
>
> Disregard my last!!!
>
> >From: "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin 430
> >Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2000 08:34:44 HST
> >
> >
> >Alex,
> >
> >They are running around the $7500 to $8000 range. And they come with the
> >antenna in the box.
> >
> >Mike Robertson
> >RV-8A
> >
> >
> > >From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >To: "RV List"
> > >Subject: RV-List: Garmin 430
> > >Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2000 18:58:49 -0500
> > >
> > >
> > >What is a good price on a Garmin 430 these days? Not installed, just the
> > >unit, w/o antennas.
> > >
> > >Thanks,
> > >
> > >Alex Peterson
> > >Maple Grove, MN
> > >
> > >
> >
> >Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
> >
> >
>
> Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gail Anderson <sga(at)cloudnet.com> |
CANCEL
KostaLewis wrote:
>
>
> >Ok, with all of this hammerhead talk, I am completely confused as to what a
> >real hammerhead is....
>
> Hammerhead stall: go straight up, pivot-turn on a wing tip, come straight
> back down. This is a common maneuver done in air shows because it looks
> cool from the ground, especially with the smoke on. It takes some talent to
> do it well (like everything) and to keep from getting in trouble, but is
> not rocket science.
>
> The key is to time the turn at the top to pivot on the inside wing tip (or
> on a point outside the wing tip). Shaun Tucker does one that looks like his
> wing tip is tacked to the sky. As you go vertical, you are at full
> throttle. As you slow near the top (feeling the airplane slightly buffet,
> not from the wings stalling, but from the power of the propwash around the
> fuselage/tail), aggressive full left rudder (if this is a left turn) to
> pivot. At the "top", the upper wing is flying faster than the lower wing
> and will tend to roll the airplane (to the left); so right aileron
> (sometimes full aileron) is need to counter that, then SLIGHT forward stick
> to counteract the gyroscopic forces of the prop. As you come through to
> vertical down, at about 45 degrees, opposite right rudder is needed to keep
> from "swinging through" your down line. Neutral controls, throttle back,
> establish a down line and begin pulling out to keep from over speeding.
> This feels like the back side of a loop.
>
> Things to avoid:
> Tail slide. Yikes. If you don't apply rudder in time, you will be flying
> backwards, resulting in a whip stall. This is hard on tail feathers and
> underwear. I believe some elevator skin cracking was the result of tail
> slides on some RVs. What to do if you slide: full AFT stick. The airplane
> will arch over on its back, and head vertical down again, and you recover.
> Pulling out too soon: the airplane's airspeed is zero at the top and you DO
> have time to establish your down line before pulling out.
> Pulling out too late: excessive speeds and G forces.
> Improper input of controls at the top or beginning of the downline causing
> an inverted spin. Yikes. Too much forward stick at the top, not
> neutralizing controls at the beginning of the down line. Pitts and Eagles
> do this pretty easily; I don't know about the RVs.
> Not getting proper training before doing any of this stuff. Aerobatics is
> easy when you know what you are doing. It's staying out of trouble, and
> getting out of trouble once you are in it that are important parts of
> getting instruction.
>
> Try instead: Wing over: a steep turn at higher speed and less angle than a
> hammerhead that feels pretty radical, is easier to do and keeps you further
> from the problems of a botched hammerhead.
>
> GET AEROBATIC INSTRUCTION BEFORE DOING THIS STUFF. It is fun, expands your
> knowledge of flying, makes you a better pilot and can keep you out of trouble.
>
> Michael
> RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
> Making the horizon move around, some.....
>
> There was the time I was in a Cherokee 140, final approach and got caught
> in a wing tip vortex from a jet.......oh, never mind.....
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gail Anderson <sga(at)cloudnet.com> |
CANCEL
Michael Robertson wrote:
>
>
> Alex,
>
> They are running around the $7500 to $8000 range. And they come with the
> antenna in the box.
>
> Mike Robertson
> RV-8A
>
> >From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: "RV List"
> >Subject: RV-List: Garmin 430
> >Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2000 18:58:49 -0500
> >
> >
> >What is a good price on a Garmin 430 these days? Not installed, just the
> >unit, w/o antennas.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Alex Peterson
> >Maple Grove, MN
> >
> >
>
> Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gail Anderson <sga(at)cloudnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Compressor type? |
CANCEL
pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
>
> I have the same CH 60 gallon. I wired mine for 220v (less voltage drop and
> leaves me with my 110 vac circuits not being drawn against by the compressor).
> Very glad I went with the bigger one. Takes up very little room because its
> tall. I can blow out my 9 zone 55 head sprinkler system myself (tank capacity).A
> 12$ 1/2 inch air wrench lets me rotate my tires with out breaking a
> sweat......Blows out all the fiberglass powder when I sand my F/G parts (yuk),
> My blow up doll is ready in seconds............just seeing if anyone reads
> these replys.....
>
> rv8er(at)home.com on 04/24/2000 11:00:49 AM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Compressor type?
>
>
> Ditto...I have the same compressor, that replaced a Sears 5HP 15 Gallon dry
> and very loud piece of junk. I love the new CH 60 gallon...it has a
> whopping 10.5 CFM that will run anything, and it always keeps up, even
> running die grinders. The difference between spending $250 and $400 on a
> compressor is amazing. The only drawback is that I don't have 220 V in my
> hanger, so I will have to pay an electrician to wire it....
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
> http://members.home.net/rv8er
> Finish Kit
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, April 23, 2000 9:56 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Compressor type?
>
> >
> > Don't use it that much? Am I doing something wrong? If I'm not drilling,
> > I'm using the angle die grinder with scotchbrite wheels, if not that then
> > I'm triming with the straight die grinder and a cut off wheel, if not that
> > they I'm using the pneumatic squeezer. I'm sure there has not been one
> > building session where air didn't leave that tank. I thank the air
> > compressor gods for the cambell hausefield 6hp 60 gallon that home depot
> > sells for $388. It's quiet (read as HAS OIL IN IT) and I can drill nearly
> > an entire skin before it kicks on....and then it's not on very long and I
> > don't even have to stop my conversation to wait for the noise to stop. I
> > can even hear the radio over it......not a bad compressor at all. Anyone
> > want the 3.5 horse 11 gallon waste of metal it replaced?
> >
> > Bill
> > -4 waiting and waiting on the wings.
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
> > To:
> > Sent: Sunday, April 23, 2000 1:35 PM
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Compressor type?
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Are,
> > >
> > > Congratulations on joining the "crazy" world of homebuilders. Campbell
> > > hausfield is a well known "budget" brand of air tools and compressors.
> > They
> > > aren't bad and you usually get your money's worth out of them. The
> thing
> > to
> > > look at is whether it is a dry or an oil bath compressor. The dry
> > > compressors are loud. And over the long run will not last as long. But
> > > that usually is not an issue with for homebuilders as we don't use them
> > that
> > > much. I have one of those compressors at home and have it outside
> because
> > > it is so loud.
> > >
> > > Mike Robertson
> > > RV-8A cowling going on
> > >
> > >
> > > >From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
> > > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > > >To:
> > > >Subject: RV-List: Air Compressor type?
> > > >Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2000 23:11:02 -0400
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >Hi,
> > > >
> > > >This will be my very first post to the list since I'm just starting to
> > > >build. I have looked in the FAQ for the answer but couldn't find it.
> > > >
> > > >My local farm supply store has a new Campbell Hausfield 5HP compressor
> > with
> > > >a 50 gallon tank. They only want $530 CDN for it on sale. Is there a
> > catch
> > > >to this? Is it a particulary bad brand or noisy etc.? Is there
> something
> > > >else I should look for? It runs on 115volt so I don't have to wire a
> > > >special
> > > >outlet for it.
> > > >
> > > >Any advice would be appreciated.
> > > >
> > > >Thanks,
> > > >Are Barstad
> > > >Loretto, Ontario, Canada
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 4/24/2000 1:47:24 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
mikel(at)dimensional.com writes:
> Tail slide. Yikes. If you don't apply rudder in time, you will be flying
> backwards, resulting in a whip stall. This is hard on tail feathers and
> underwear. I believe some elevator skin cracking was the result of tail
> slides on some RVs. What to do if you slide: full AFT stick. The airplane
> will arch over on its back, and head vertical down again, and you recover.
Hi Michael,
My recollection of the way I was taught to do tailslides says that aft stick
will result in a nose-over, not a backwards arch. If you wish to go over
backwards, full forward stick (once you've begun sliding) will do it. Check
page 90 of Mike Goulian's "Advanced Aerobatics" for a neat little
illustration of this.
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
right wing done, left wing in jig, fuse kit in workshop urging me on...
________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wiring fuel senders... |
I've been examining the materials that came with my float-type fuel senders
and have been unable to locate either a suggestion as to the correct wire
gauge to use or the data necessary to arrive at the correct gauge myself.
I mentioned this to Scott R. at Van's the other day and he suggested 18AWG.
That sounds good to me, but I thought I'd run it by the list first. Comments?
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
right wing done, left wing in jig, fuse kit in workshop urging me on...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
Hi,
I plumbed in my primer system similar to the one illustrated in Van's
manual using "T" fittings to brach off to the different cylinders. A
friend suggested that I will get better performance from the primer
system if I branch all primer lines from a centralized distribution
point. Will the system I have installed function properly or should I
reconsider replumbing my primer system?
Thank you,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Glover" <wirraway(at)bravo.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Flashers & Landing Lights |
<<<< Maybe this has been discussed but...Reference
the flashing landing lights
> that we have been talking about, >>>>
Hi Ed,
Check in the archives, under Wig Wag Falsher.
There is a wealth of info there. I fitted a Star
solid state flasher model 3666-1 and it worked
great. BTW fit the "flasher/steady" switch near
the throttle.
Ken Glover
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wiring fuel senders... |
>From: Kbalch1(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Wiring fuel senders...
>Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2000 17:44:58 EDT
>
>
>I've been examining the materials that came with my float-type fuel senders
>and have been unable to locate either a suggestion as to the correct wire
>gauge to use or the data necessary to arrive at the correct gauge myself.
>
>I mentioned this to Scott R. at Van's the other day and he suggested 18AWG.
>That sounds good to me, but I thought I'd run it by the list first.
>Comments?
>
>Regards,
>Ken Balch
>Ashland, MA
>RV-8 #81125
Ken,
18AWG is fine. Amp draw for this circuit is almost zilch. I used mostly
16AWG for the great majority of my wiring since I had an almost unlimited
supply of it and it's just a wee bit thicker (stronger) than 18 gauge.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
81 hrs.
>right wing done, left wing in jig, fuse kit in workshop urging me on...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Primer plumbing |
>From: Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Primer plumbing
>Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2000 17:25:17 -0500
>
>
>Hi,
>I plumbed in my primer system similar to the one illustrated in Van's
>manual using "T" fittings to brach off to the different cylinders. A
>friend suggested that I will get better performance from the primer
>system if I branch all primer lines from a centralized distribution
>point. Will the system I have installed function properly or should I
>reconsider replumbing my primer system?
>
>Thank you,
>Glenn Gordon
Nonsense. You did fine. My primer system has a bulkhead "T" fitting on the
firewall, and from there one line goes up to the #1 cylinder, then one line
goes up to another "T" fitting between the #2 and #4 cylinders where short
lines go from the fitting to each cyliner just a few inches away. Works fine
and starts up reliably. The #3 cylinder in my airplane has a manifold
pressure line hooked up to the primer port so only three cylinders get
juiced before startup.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
81 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Compressor type? |
Wiring 220 is a snap. Go to Home Depot and tell them what you want to
do....they'll walk you right through it. It really is a piece of
cake.....especially if you have a circuit breaker box in your garage.
Bill
-4
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com>
Sent: Monday, April 24, 2000 11:00 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Compressor type?
>
> Ditto...I have the same compressor, that replaced a Sears 5HP 15 Gallon
dry
> and very loud piece of junk. I love the new CH 60 gallon...it has a
> whopping 10.5 CFM that will run anything, and it always keeps up, even
> running die grinders. The difference between spending $250 and $400 on a
> compressor is amazing. The only drawback is that I don't have 220 V in my
> hanger, so I will have to pay an electrician to wire it....
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
> http://members.home.net/rv8er
> Finish Kit
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, April 23, 2000 9:56 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Compressor type?
>
>
> >
> > Don't use it that much? Am I doing something wrong? If I'm not
drilling,
> > I'm using the angle die grinder with scotchbrite wheels, if not that
then
> > I'm triming with the straight die grinder and a cut off wheel, if not
that
> > they I'm using the pneumatic squeezer. I'm sure there has not been one
> > building session where air didn't leave that tank. I thank the air
> > compressor gods for the cambell hausefield 6hp 60 gallon that home depot
> > sells for $388. It's quiet (read as HAS OIL IN IT) and I can drill
nearly
> > an entire skin before it kicks on....and then it's not on very long and
I
> > don't even have to stop my conversation to wait for the noise to stop.
I
> > can even hear the radio over it......not a bad compressor at all.
Anyone
> > want the 3.5 horse 11 gallon waste of metal it replaced?
> >
> > Bill
> > -4 waiting and waiting on the wings.
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Michael Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
> > To:
> > Sent: Sunday, April 23, 2000 1:35 PM
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Compressor type?
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Are,
> > >
> > > Congratulations on joining the "crazy" world of homebuilders.
Campbell
> > > hausfield is a well known "budget" brand of air tools and compressors.
> > They
> > > aren't bad and you usually get your money's worth out of them. The
> thing
> > to
> > > look at is whether it is a dry or an oil bath compressor. The dry
> > > compressors are loud. And over the long run will not last as long.
But
> > > that usually is not an issue with for homebuilders as we don't use
them
> > that
> > > much. I have one of those compressors at home and have it outside
> because
> > > it is so loud.
> > >
> > > Mike Robertson
> > > RV-8A cowling going on
> > >
> > >
> > > >From: "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
> > > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > > >To:
> > > >Subject: RV-List: Air Compressor type?
> > > >Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2000 23:11:02 -0400
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >Hi,
> > > >
> > > >This will be my very first post to the list since I'm just starting
to
> > > >build. I have looked in the FAQ for the answer but couldn't find it.
> > > >
> > > >My local farm supply store has a new Campbell Hausfield 5HP
compressor
> > with
> > > >a 50 gallon tank. They only want $530 CDN for it on sale. Is there a
> > catch
> > > >to this? Is it a particulary bad brand or noisy etc.? Is there
> something
> > > >else I should look for? It runs on 115volt so I don't have to wire a
> > > >special
> > > >outlet for it.
> > > >
> > > >Any advice would be appreciated.
> > > >
> > > >Thanks,
> > > >Are Barstad
> > > >Loretto, Ontario, Canada
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
http://www.hotmail.com
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
>
>In a message dated 4/24/2000 1:47:24 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>mikel(at)dimensional.com writes:
>
>> Tail slide. Yikes. If you don't apply rudder in time, you will be flying
>> backwards, resulting in a whip stall. This is hard on tail feathers and
>> underwear. I believe some elevator skin cracking was the result of tail
>> slides on some RVs. What to do if you slide: full AFT stick. The airplane
>> will arch over on its back, and head vertical down again, and you recover.
>
>Hi Michael,
>
>My recollection of the way I was taught to do tailslides says that aft stick
>will result in a nose-over, not a backwards arch. If you wish to go over
>backwards, full forward stick (once you've begun sliding) will do it. Check
>page 90 of Mike Goulian's "Advanced Aerobatics" for a neat little
>illustration of this.
>
>Regards,
>Ken Balch
I suspect the aircraft response depends on how much power the engine
is making. At full power, there will be a lot of slipstream over the
tail, and full aft stick should cause the plane to go over on its
back, the way I see it. At idle power, once the plane starts to
slide backwards, full aft stick could make it nose over. I've never
done a tail slide in a single-engine prop, so I can't speak from
experience on this.
So, you could both be right.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit floors)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
These prices seem awfully low. Does this include the CDI and annunciator
required for IFR or is this the VFR version?
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Monday, April 24, 2000 1:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin 430
>
>Alex,
>
>They are running around the $7500 to $8000 range. And they come with the
>antenna in the box.
>
>Mike Robertson
>RV-8A
>
>
>>From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
>>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>To: "RV List"
>>Subject: RV-List: Garmin 430
>>Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2000 18:58:49 -0500
>>
>>
>>What is a good price on a Garmin 430 these days? Not installed, just the
>>unit, w/o antennas.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Alex Peterson
>>Maple Grove, MN
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
The 430 is a full IFR certified piece of equipment. The prices that are
being talked about are only for the 430, the rack, and the antenna.
I know that Garmin's suggested price is around $8500. I got mine with the
first shipment to my local avionics dealer, and that was 6 months ago, so
the market price may be coming down now.
>From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin 430
>Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2000 20:53:41 -0500
>
>
>These prices seem awfully low. Does this include the CDI and annunciator
>required for IFR or is this the VFR version?
>Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
>Hampshire, IL C38
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Michael Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Monday, April 24, 2000 1:39 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin 430
>
>
>
> >
> >Alex,
> >
> >They are running around the $7500 to $8000 range. And they come with the
> >antenna in the box.
> >
> >Mike Robertson
> >RV-8A
> >
> >
> >>From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
> >>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >>To: "RV List"
> >>Subject: RV-List: Garmin 430
> >>Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2000 18:58:49 -0500
> >>
> >>
> >>What is a good price on a Garmin 430 these days? Not installed, just
>the
> >>unit, w/o antennas.
> >>
> >>Thanks,
> >>
> >>Alex Peterson
> >>Maple Grove, MN
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The VonDane's" <vondanes(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Something wrong? |
I am trying to do a search in the archives, and I get nothing after July
98...
Anyone still have the posts about the RV-3 stuff for sale? One was about an
almost complete RV-3, and one was about a couple 3's at different stages of
completion...
Thanks...
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N912V, Wings
http://vondane.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) |
| Subject: | Re: Range & endurance test form |
David Peck wrote:
>
>
> Listers, I made myself a form for recording aircraft parameters to calculate
> the power curve for range and endurance as detailed in Sport Aviation in
> February and March.
> Hope its of some help, any improvements welcome.
>
>
Also refer to:
FLIGHT TEST CHECKLIST
HOMEBUILDER'S FLIGHT TEST GUIDE
Jerry Milek
JaviFix
Trenton Centre
PO Box 22092
Trenton. Ontario K8V 6S3
FLIGHT TESTING HOMEBUILT AIRCRAFT
Vaughan Askue
Iowa State University Press
Ames, Iowa 50014
SOFTWARE/DOCUMENTATION: BENCHMARK
"Aircraft performance testing for single and multi-engine aircraft using
constant-speed propellers"
Sequoia Aircraft Corp
PO Box 6861
Richmond, VA 23230
804-353-1713
Boyd
RV S6
Venice, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
Dennis,
I was quoted 6,350 per box for a duel 430 installation, 1,200 more for a
harness, and 1,200 for the VOR/ILS CDI with Annunciator for IFR certification of
the #2 430. The #1 430 is being plumbed to a Sandel 3308 EHSI that doesn't need
the annunciator.
Bruce
Glasair III
Dennis Persyk wrote:
>
> These prices seem awfully low. Does this include the CDI and annunciator
> required for IFR or is this the VFR version?
> Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
> Hampshire, IL C38
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Monday, April 24, 2000 1:39 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin 430
>
> >
> >Alex,
> >
> >They are running around the $7500 to $8000 range. And they come with the
> >antenna in the box.
> >
> >Mike Robertson
> >RV-8A
> >
> >
> >>From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
> >>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >>To: "RV List"
> >>Subject: RV-List: Garmin 430
> >>Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2000 18:58:49 -0500
> >>
> >>
> >>What is a good price on a Garmin 430 these days? Not installed, just the
> >>unit, w/o antennas.
> >>
> >>Thanks,
> >>
> >>Alex Peterson
> >>Maple Grove, MN
> >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | rv4 compact heat box placement (help) |
I have van's compact heat selector box and need some help on the placement.
Do you put it on the top half of the firewall and if so where and how? Is
there anyway to direct the heat on the other side, maybe split it off to the
back seat and how do you route the control cable.
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
> > seem awfully low. Does this include the CDI and annunciator
> > required for IFR or is this the VFR version?
> > Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Doesn't include the CDI. What a drag having to pay $1200 extra for that.
However CDI is not strictly required for IFR cert. The intention of the
separate CDI is to make sure its in your scan and not over on the radio
stack. Since the moving map has a CDI function you should be able to get
away with it if the radio's in front of you, like in a -4 or -8. Possibly
even a -6 depending on where you have your radio stack, tho you may have to
argue that with an FAA type. Also if you already have a VOR you may be able
to hook a switch up and use the single CDI for both.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~75 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Allison <stevea(at)svpal.org> |
| Subject: | RV-6 jig available, San Jose CA |
Available to a good home: RV-6 jig
* Straight 4 year old 2x6 beams
* Unlikely to shrink or twist
* Used to build 3 fuselages
* Reworked prior to fuselage #3 construction
* New 2x4 cross pieces
* New legs on firewall end
* Leveling feet added to legs
* Guaranteed no termites!
* Fumigated along with my house.
* Yours for $75
E-mail me directly at:
stevea(at)svpal.org
or
sallison(at)us.ibm.com
Now, back to making airplane noises. :-)
Steve Allison
San Jose, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's and Avionics |
> Does any one using the VM 1000 worry about a a failure. Would you not
loose
> all your engine instruments if this unit failed, or do you just loose
> individual gages?
Yes you'd probably lose all your engine instruments and no I wouldn't worry
about it. Just how bad would things be if you lost all that stuff? Can you
fly the airplane without it? I hope so. Proceed to your destination or
wherever you need to to get it fixed. OTOH you would probably be looking at
more downtime since you'd pretty much have to get it fixed whereas you could
probably slide for a while if you lost, say, just your EGT gauge.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~75 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
My local FBO said 6250 for the unit, CDI/GS about 1200, extra for voltage
inverter, wiring etc.
Alex Peterson
>
> These prices seem awfully low. Does this include the CDI and annunciator
> required for IFR or is this the VFR version?
> Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
> Hampshire, IL C38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "et" <et(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | dexter epoxy primer (akzo) safety question |
Greetings Listers,
I sent an email to Dexter requesting hazardous materials info for their
epoxy primers. Have not gotten a response.
On the aircraft spruce shipping box, it had listed "HAZMAT Ref 719284".
Not sure what this means...maybe time
for a net search.
Anyway, today I bought the best respirator I could find at Home Depot...says
it is good for paints/spray painting, except
urethane. The color codes on the filters are red and green.
The archives said something about getting yellow and brown/black too for the
really dangerous stuff.
I plan on spraying outside only, and upwind if a breeze is present. Are
there any listers out there that are familiar
with the proper protection standards??
Any help appreciated.
Eric Tauch
Plano, Tx
RV-8 Emp.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Kunkel <rvator(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: dexter epoxy primer (akzo) safety question |
Hi Eric,
Send Gil Alexander an email about the hazmat properties. He's the one who
recommended it to me & is very detailed oriented about specifications. He's in
the archieves &/or his website is listed under the builders at Vans.
Blue Skies!
et wrote:
>
> Greetings Listers,
>
> I sent an email to Dexter requesting hazardous materials info for their
> epoxy primers. Have not gotten a response.
>
> On the aircraft spruce shipping box, it had listed "HAZMAT Ref 719284".
> Not sure what this means...maybe time
> for a net search.
>
> Anyway, today I bought the best respirator I could find at Home Depot...says
> it is good for paints/spray painting, except
> urethane. The color codes on the filters are red and green.
>
> The archives said something about getting yellow and brown/black too for the
> really dangerous stuff.
>
> I plan on spraying outside only, and upwind if a breeze is present. Are
> there any listers out there that are familiar
> with the proper protection standards??
>
> Any help appreciated.
>
> Eric Tauch
> Plano, Tx
> RV-8 Emp.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
"RV-List: Something wrong?" (Apr 24, 8:09pm)
| Subject: | Re: Something wrong? |
Something went wacko with the archive building/transfers last night
(Sunday) and resulted in only a particial set of archives for today
(Monday). Hopefully all will work fine tonight. Sorry for the problem;
somebody should have mentioned it sooner! ;-)
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin
>--------------
>
>I am trying to do a search in the archives, and I get nothing after July
>98...
>
>Anyone still have the posts about the RV-3 stuff for sale? One was about an
>almost complete RV-3, and one was about a couple 3's at different stages of
>completion...
>
>Thanks...
>
>Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
>RV-8A, N912V, Wings
>http://vondane.com
>
>
>--------------
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
dear listers
i'm cutting holes in my panel and would like to know how are most engine
monitoring systems layed out, is it ok to have just 1 egt and 1 cht? if so
which cylinders get them? or am i supposed to have one for each cylinder?
that would leave no room on my panel.
thanks in advance
scott
tampa
panel and canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chat Daniel" <cdaniel(at)fnbsouth.com> |
Ed...
My point was everything you add except forward baggage will move the cg aft.
I suspect with pilot and just fuel the cg will be in tolerance. I am very
interested because the 8 you described is very close to mine. Hope to fly
this summer..painting now.
Chat Daniel N678RV
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of ERSF2B(at)aol.com
Sent: Monday, April 24, 2000 11:20 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 W&B
Dear Chat,
It would be incorrect to weigh for empty weight with fuel onboard. Oil is
included in the engine.
I am having second thoughts on the battery in the rear. If done so it will
limit you to the weight in the rear seat more so than batt. forward.
Fortunetly we have the ability to put weight in the forward bagg compartment
to help offset the rear weight.
Ed Storo rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charlie Kuss" <chaskuss(at)miami.gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Hand held comm and nav/comm radios |
Hi folks,
This isn't strictly RV related, but it is aviation related. I am in the
market for a new hand held comm or nav/com. I've been looking at the Icom
A22, the JRC JHP 520 & 500, the Yaesu VXA-120 & Sporty's JD200 . I've been
price shopping at Marv Golden, Avionics West & Sporty's.
I would appreciate comments on your experiences with any of these radios,
good or bad. I would also welcome suggestions on other manufacturers/vendors
to try. Reply off list if you prefer.
Charlie Kuss
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
>
>dear listers
>i'm cutting holes in my panel and would like to know how are most engine
>monitoring systems layed out, is it ok to have just 1 egt and 1 cht? if so
>which cylinders get them? or am i supposed to have one for each cylinder?
>that would leave no room on my panel.
>thanks in advance
>scott
>tampa
In this case you are supposed to do exactly whatever it is you want to do.
Neither egt nor cht is required. People have every configuration from
nothing to full time egt and cht on every cylinder.
My experience with my six is that cooling can be marginal and very dependent
on airspeed, so I would want a minimum of one cht on the number three
cylinder (almost always the hottest on a six and most other airplanes).
Many people use 4 probes for either or both functions and one display, with
a switch to look at any cylinder. My personal belief is that egt,
especially on all cylinders is of marginal utility in a carburated airplane.
If you lean according to Lycoming recommendations, it is a matter of when
the engine gets rough. The egts will be all over the place but you will be
leaning, by roughness, just by the leanest cylinder. On the other hand the
fancier systems may be a diagnostic aid in case of engine problems.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2000 7:53 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: egt & cht
>
> Scott If you use "JPI "system or Electronics Int,l system there is one
gage that moniters the cht & egt on all the cylinders. There is also several
other mfgs.,but these are the ones i,m most familuar with. I have Vision 800
system in our 6A
Ollie Washburn 6A Tampa.
> thanks in advance
> scott
> tampa
> panel and canopy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
| Subject: | electric flap board from Van's |
Listers,
Anyone out there use the electric flap control board from Van's? I talked
to Tom @ Van's last week and he knew little about the board...I have a MAC
stick grip with two momentary buttons which I intend to use with the flap
board but I'm wondering if the flap board is "smart" enough to not allow
anything to happen if both buttons are inadvertently pressed at the same
time.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ registered, all paperwork submitted
http://members.iquest.net/~bjapundza
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Air Compressor type? |
The Campbell Hausfield 6HP, 60 gallon compressor, 220 volt cast inon
pump, sells for under $400 US here in sourthern California. I paid
$389.00 plus tax for mine.
Cecil Hatfield
Thousand Oaks, CA
writes:
>
>Hi,
>
>This will be my very first post to the list since I'm just starting to
>build. I have looked in the FAQ for the answer but couldn't find it.
>
>My local farm supply store has a new Campbell Hausfield 5HP compressor
>with
>a 50 gallon tank. They only want $530 CDN for it on sale. Is there a
>catch
>to this? Is it a particulary bad brand or noisy etc.? Is there
>something
>else I should look for? It runs on 115volt so I don't have to wire a
>special
>outlet for it.
>
>Any advice would be appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>Are Barstad
>Loretto, Ontario, Canada
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Stick Movement |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
> I have installed the NAVAID servo under the passenger seat. How
> far, left to right, does the stick move on the -6? Measured at the
opening in
> the seat skin.
>
> Cash Copeland
> RV-6QB 60075
> Oakland Ca.
Cash:
I ran the numbers from the design movement of the aileron stop. Got +/-
1.53 inches from neutral.
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
**********************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
Dear Chat
I figured out that with a 25lb weight on the rear shelf, my plane will be in
balance. This would be easy to carry around,and simply put into the front bag
area when passengers show up. BUT...I have not painted my aircraft yet.
Comparing weights with another RV8, we found 36lbs on my tail wheel, and
50lbs on his. (his is painted)
Ed Storo rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Stick Movement |
> > I have installed the NAVAID servo under the passenger seat. How
> > far, left to right, does the stick move on the -6? Measured at
> the
> opening in
> > the seat skin.
> >
> > Cash Copeland
Cash - you'll need to go by the limitation of the servo throw. I think
it's 2.25 inches (total) using the last hole. You'll need to choke up
on the bell crank to meet this requirement.
Mounted mine on the tip rib a'la Sam Buchannan.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Send online invitations with Yahoo! Invites.
http://invites.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>
>
>dear listers
>i'm cutting holes in my panel and would like to know how are most engine
>monitoring systems layed out, is it ok to have just 1 egt and 1 cht? if so
>which cylinders get them? or am i supposed to have one for each cylinder?
>that would leave no room on my panel.
>thanks in advance
>scott
>tampa
>panel and canopy
>
I have one egt and one cht gauge which are hooked up to cylinder #3. It
tells me enough to keep my climb angles under control and helps me to lean
the mixture. Having all four cylinders monitored is certainly more
informative but not absolutely necessary. Having four CHT and EGT leads
hooked up to a four position selector switch works quite well if you just
want to use a simple analog gauge instead of an electronic engine monitoring
system. It's certainly a less expensive way to go.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
81 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: electric flap board from Van's |
Bob,
If both buttons get pressed at the same time the flap motor will not operate.
There are a number of RV's that have been using the board without any
problems also using the Mac stick grips. If you need any more info you can
email me.
Rob Hickman
(RV-4 40+ Hours)
robhickman(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelvin Rempel" <kelvinrempel(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Thor rivet squeezer |
Does anyone know if the Thor brand pneumatic river squeezers are any good or
suited for an RV project. I found one that has a 1.5" reach, accepts 3/16"
shank tooling and 1/8" rivets. Please reply on the list or in E-mail.
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: electric flap board from Van's |
bob
i just assembled my relay deck for my mac servos. gary from macs at the sun n
fun gave me a parts list and a wiring schematic to built it. it really is
quite simple and compact. the switches on the mac grip cannot handle the amps
the flap motor draws, therefore a relay deck is a must. my switch for the
flaps on the mac grip is momentary on ( up ) off ( center ) momentary on
( down ) there is no way for it to operate both at the same time.
if you would like a parts list and wiring schematic, send me your fax number
hope this helps
scott
tampa
6a tip up canopy frame and panel.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KostaLewis <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
>>> Tail slide. Yikes.........What to do if you slide: full AFT stick. The
airplane
>>> will arch over on its back, and head vertical down again, and you
recover.
>>My recollection of the way I was taught to do tailslides says that aft stick
>>will result in a nose-over, not a backwards arch......
>I suspect the aircraft response depends on how much power the engine
>is making. At full power, there will be a lot of slipstream over the
>tail, and full aft stick should cause the plane to go over on its
>back....
Right. It depends on where in the slide you are. In a botched hammerhead,
you are trying to avoid a tail slide and the recommended action is AFT
stick to avoid the rush backwards. (Maybe to get Mother Earth in view the
quickest.) Most of your control response will be from the air from the
prop, if caught in time. This is the slight "buffet" you feel just before
you stomp rudder when doing a hammerhead: the rush of air past the fuselage
and tail from the prop wash. Your airspeed is about zero at this point.
Once the backwards rush has begun, or if you are doing a purposeful tail
slide, aft stick brings the wheels down first, forward stick brings the
canopy down first.
OK, you're going to make me get out the books. Lessee, here:
Szurovy/Goulian's book on basic aerobatics (recommended reading, by the
way) recommends aft stick for the botched hammer head. The ideas here are
1) don't tail slide. 2) if you do or get close, get out of it quickly to
avoid damage to the back end of your airplane: full aft or full forward
stick, (NOT the rudder). Either will get your airplane moving in the right
direction. 3) Did I mention getting some aerobatic instruction? Recovery
from a tail slide should probably be part of your aerobatic instruction if
hammerheads are something you want to learn to do well.
NOW are you builders licking your chops??? Honey, comeeer: they're talking
about doing TAIL SLIDES, fer cryin out loud!!!
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Entry speed, PULL.....vertical, stick center.........slowing......left
rudder..right aileron...slight forward stick...turning, 45,
right rudder, neutral controls, straight down
wait PULL.... yeehaaaaaaa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Haan <bhaan(at)easystreet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flashers & Landing Lights |
>How much does the unit weigh?
>
>
>Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit floors)
>Ottawa, Canada
Kevin,
Weights,less than a pound. Weights significantly less than using
relays. There will be some reduction in the weight of the wiring. There
is less wiring and the heavier 14AWG runs the shortest route from the fuse
or CB to the lamps. The 14AWG does not have to run to a switch. Wire size
22AWG connects the panel switch(s) to the WIgWag SS Controller.
Bob
Bob Haan
http://easystreet.com/~bhaan/
bhaan(at)easystreet.com
Portland, OR
RV6A 24461 Wiring the panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dumb Brake Commissioning Question |
Any tips on quickly and effectively filling and bleeding the brakes (on an
-8, if it matters)?
I've already beat this around a little, but ran out of time at the hanger
before making much headway... I thought a question to the List might bring
out some good advice.
Thanks
Bryan Jones
-8 inspection soon
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Stick Movement |
Don,
Thanks for the info
Cash Copeland
In a message dated 4/25/00 3:30:23 PM GMT Daylight Time, dons6a(at)juno.com
writes:
<<
Cash:
I ran the numbers from the design movement of the aileron stop. Got +/-
1.53 inches from neutral.
Don Jordan -- 6a finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Pump Idler Gear 0320 |
I need to locate an idler gear that goes into the accessory case on the
0320 that drives the fuel pump.
The one with a cam lobe on it. I also need the actuating pin. Any Ideas?
Thanks...
Larry Olson
Cave Creek, AZ
RV6 Assembling Engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Stick Movement |
Mike,
I have already mounted the servo under the seat. I chose not to use the wing
mounting method. I needed the stick movement measurement so that I can
determine if the stick movement and servo throw are compatible. I am
mounting the pushrod to the pilots stick to hopefully eliminate the angular
problems associated with mounting to the copilots stick. I have not
installed the aileron control mechanism or pushrods in the wing, so I can't
measure the throw of the stick.
Cash Copeland
> > I have installed the NAVAID servo under the passenger seat. How
> > far, left to right, does the stick move on the-6? Measured at
> the
> opening in
> > the seat skin.
> >
> > Cash Copeland
Cash - you'll need to go by the limitation of the servo throw. I think
it's 2.25 inches (total) using the last hole. You'll need to choke up
on the bell crank to meet this requirement.
Mounted mine on the tip rib a'la Sam Buchannan.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
| Subject: | Re: Van's and Avionics |
>wherever you need to to get it fixed. OTOH you would probably be looking at
>more downtime since you'd pretty much have to get it fixed whereas you could
>probably slide for a while if you lost, say, just your EGT gauge.
This brings up a really good question.
I would like to hear from "anyone" who has had a total system failure with their
VM1000.
If this unit is prone to failure, I would like to know about it sooner that
later.
Thanks to all,
- Jim Andrews
RV-8AQ ( Fuse )
N89JA ( reserved )
________________________________________________________________________________
Sounds like a pretty light plane - or maybe mine's a little heavy! My -8
came out at 54 on the tailwheel and 1029 on the mains -> 1083-lb total using
a 1000-lb beam scale. That's ready to fly - paint, oil, seat cushions,
etc... I ended up with a pretty flexible CG envelope.
CS prop, O-320-E2A (stock), MA-4SPA, 25# batt on the firewall, VFR panel
with custom engine monitoring electronics
Bryan Jones
-8 ready for inspection
For those who are interested, Ed Storo weighed his RV8 today (and ran
his engine)
Particulars are:
Stock RV8QB with Aero Sport O-360 and CS prop, firewall battery
(concorde).
No paint yet (except interior), fairings not installed.
Day/night VFR panel with Navaid and VM-1000
Empty weight: 1041#
With just pilot on board, CG is approximately 1" forward of the forward
edge of the envelope. Ed will be unable to fly the airplane solo
without aft ballast
There are some construction photos of Ed's airplane on Jerry Carters
website at http://www.rv8asite.homestead.com/mainpage.html
Ed's workmanship is really excellent. He does wish he had the aft
battery though...
James Freeman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Japundza, Bob" <bjapundza(at)dowagro.com> |
| Subject: | Dumb Brake Commissioning Question |
Bryan,
Here's the method I've used on my -6, and other airplanes I've worked on in
the past:
Go to your favorite tool store (Sears, in my case) and buy a
plunger-operated oil can (the one with the thumb lever.) Remove the
flexible nozzle, and replace it with a small diameter clear hose. Fill the
oil can with the red stuff. On your airplane, unscrew the brake bleeder
valve and attach the rubber hose to it and start pumping the fluid into the
brake system. Make sure that you remove the plug on the resevoir and stick
a screwdriver in it so you can check the level; on the first brake just get
enough of the red stuff in the resevoir to fill the bottom. Careful, the
brake lines fill up in a hurry. Close the bleeder valve and remove the
hose, repeat on the other side but do fill up the resevoir. Voila! Both
brakes filled and bled, since you're filling from the bottom and forcing air
out of your system.
Bob Japundza
-6 flying by the end of May
Any tips on quickly and effectively filling and bleeding the brakes (on an
-8, if it matters)?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Burns" <hsierra(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dumb Brake Commissioning Question |
use a pressure bleeder from the caliper up. works real fast and easy. If
you dont have, or cant borrow a pressure bleeder, you can make one real easy
from a chunk of PVC pipe or you can use a pump type oil can with piece of
clear tube on the end.
R. Burns
RV-4 s/n 3524 N82RB
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dumb Brake Commissioning Question |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
><bryan.jones@lyondell-citgo.com>
>
>Any tips on quickly and effectively filling and bleeding the brakes (on an
>-8, if it matters)?
>
>I've already beat this around a little, but ran out of time at the hanger
>before making much headway... I thought a question to the List might bring
>out some good advice.
>
My method is to fill from the bleeder valve with a plastic tube attached
to a squeeze pump type oil can.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Pump Idler Gear 0320 |
There's a place in Dallas (actually, Lancaster) called EnParts. They sell
mostly salvage and used parts. Boy, did she save me some $$$ overhauling my
O-320... Give her a call.
Enparts
700 Ferris Road, Lancaster, TX 75146
(972) 227-0086
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Olson [mailto:lolson(at)doitnow.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2000 2:51 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Pump Idler Gear 0320
I need to locate an idler gear that goes into the accessory case on the
0320 that drives the fuel pump.
The one with a cam lobe on it. I also need the actuating pin. Any Ideas?
Thanks...
Larry Olson
Cave Creek, AZ
RV6 Assembling Engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark D. Dickens" <mddickens(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: dexter epoxy primer (akzo) safety question |
Eric, I too spray Akzo and do so with a respirator. The respirator I use is
an AO Safety unit rated for organic vapors with a P100 (100% particulate
protection) rating. The MSDS (material safety data sheet) is available from
Dexter as is the Technical Data Sheet. I had no problem getting any
information I needed and I contacted their customer service through email
(contact elrodiek(at)dexteraero.com). They faxed both to me within a few
hours. You do need to give them the exact part # for the primer and
converter you're interested in.
As for protection, I wear long sleeves and pants, hospital gloves, the
respirator, eye protection (goggles), and spray outside. If you use a HVLP
gun, you can hold the "pollution" to a minimum. I use a Devilbiss "Prime
Time" gun and it works well in holding the mess to a minimum as well as
saving primer.
Mark Dickens
Germantown, TN
RV-8 Wings
----- Original Message -----
From: et <et(at)airmail.net>
Sent: Monday, April 24, 2000 11:16 PM
Subject: RV-List: dexter epoxy primer (akzo) safety question
>
> Greetings Listers,
>
> I sent an email to Dexter requesting hazardous materials info for their
> epoxy primers. Have not gotten a response.
>
> On the aircraft spruce shipping box, it had listed "HAZMAT Ref 719284".
> Not sure what this means...maybe time
> for a net search.
>
> Anyway, today I bought the best respirator I could find at Home
Depot...says
> it is good for paints/spray painting, except
> urethane. The color codes on the filters are red and green.
>
> The archives said something about getting yellow and brown/black too for
the
> really dangerous stuff.
>
> I plan on spraying outside only, and upwind if a breeze is present. Are
> there any listers out there that are familiar
> with the proper protection standards??
>
> Any help appreciated.
>
> Eric Tauch
> Plano, Tx
> RV-8 Emp.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gordon Giger <giger(at)bmi.net> |
| Subject: | move rudder pedals or not? |
The partly completed rv-6a that i'm working on,has the rudder
pedals installed to the plans.the problem i have is i'm 6'5" my wife is
5'2",i need to come up with a way(keeping the pedals where they are for the
wife)for both of us to be able to pilot the plane.it lookes like i can gain
about 2" or so(for me) if i add a hinge for the back of the seat,moving it
back that much.the plans talk about moving the pedals for long legs but
nothing about moving the seat more aft.any ideas?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine decision time... |
Well, I thought I was all set on an IO-360-A1A from Bart. I'd sent them a
deposit and currently have an August delivery date. Along comes MT Propeller
to gum up the works.
I've had my heart set on a 3-blade prop and was glad to see that MT will now
be offered through Van's. I know, I know, two for go and three for
show...yada, yada. I never said it was a rational decision. :-) Besides,
MT has a good reputation for optimizing their props to squeak the maximum
performance out of a given engine & airframe combination. Also, they've got
a good history of working with the experimental world, though mostly in the
hardcore aerobatic community.
In any case, having mostly decided to get an MT, I was looking through the
materials I gathered at SnF and found that they recommend the IO-360-A1B6 for
its "...sixth order dampeners...". Presumably, they're talking about the
counterweights. Bart will change my order to an -A1B6 (for $2500 extra) and
keep my August delivery date. MT says that I could go with the -A1A, but
they haven't done a vibration analysis on it yet and I should avoid
aerobatics in that case. Granted, these are experimentals and I can do what
I want, but would that be wise in this case?
Not to mention the whole issue of counterweighted prop vs.
non-counterweighted. Both sorts are available from MT -- for a price, of
course.
The mission of my -8 will be predominantly local sport flying, to include
Sportsman level aerobatics (I'll have inverted fuel & oil), and the
occasional long cross-country. With this in mind: -A1A or -A1B6?
Counterweighted prop or non-counterweighted? I've got to admit that I'm
baffled...
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
left wing dragging on...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b green <rvinfo(at)juno.com> |
Russell,
I have an Oilamatic preoiler installed in my Skybolt and personnally
wouldn't consider not having one. I can't point to any data to show that
the engine lasts longer, but it sure feels good to have 40-50psi of oil
pressure BEFORE the engine is turning. Especially when it is cold out.
It will add about 8lbs total which is nothing to sneeze at, but in my
opinion, it is worth it.
Bruce Green
RV-8 plans
writes:
>
> Greetings,
>
> Does anyone have a link to Lycoming's pub #1241 on pre-oiling? Is
> it actually online somewhere
> (couldn't find it on their site). I've also heard about taking out
> the bottom plugs and cranking
> the engine over to get pressure before start.
>
> On a related subject, has anyone installed a full time pre-oiler?
> For years I've seen these sold
> for cars/boats/etc, and they claim that the majority engine wear
> occurs during those few seconds at
> startup. For the average car engine, this seems unnecessary these
> days, but for a $20k Lycoming it
> might make sense. Do you think a system like this would really
> make a Lycoming engine last longer?
>
> Russell Duffy
> Navarre, FL
> RV-8, sn-587, N174KT (engine details, then off to the hanger)
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: move rudder pedals or not? |
In a message dated 4/25/00 6:30:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time, giger(at)bmi.net
writes:
<< The partly completed rv-6a that i'm working on,has the rudder
pedals installed to the plans.the problem i have is i'm 6'5" my wife is
5'2",i need to come up with a way(keeping the pedals where they are for the
wife)for both of us to be able to pilot the plane.it lookes like i can gain
about 2" or so(for me) if i add a hinge for the back of the seat,moving it
back that much.the plans talk about moving the pedals for long legs but
nothing about moving the seat more aft.any ideas? >>
This is a tough one. I don't think you'll have an easy time accomodating
that big a difference in pilot size. The best suggestion I have is to clamp
the pedals in place, assemble the seats, borrow some fitted cushions from
another builder (or simulate them with stacks of newspaper, etc), and see
what works. You probably need to simulate where the control stick will be as
well, along with its full range of motion. You can adjust the position of
the pedals, the seat back mount, and the thickness of cushions to achieve a
best fit for each of you.
Here are some additional thoughts:
At 5'2", your wife will have a hard time with the standard pedal location
unless she can use the forward seat back mounting position. This position is
difficult to make work well, simply because the clearance between stick and
crotch is going to be marginal, and may (will?) limit aft stick travel, which
is a distinct no-no. Her best shot may be using the second seat back
position and a thick back cushion. Also, she'll want a big booster cushion
under her. Make sure you simulate this booster, because it will impact how
far her legs will reach.
If you are normally proportioned, you'll be cramped using the standard pedal
position. However, I don't think you'll be happy with the seat geometry if
you move the seat back attach point 2" aft (you'll be too upright for
comfort). Also, at 6'5", you may run out of headroom sitting that upright.
Your best bet may be the rear position and a thin back cushion.
Good luck,
Kyle Boatright
RV-6
Struggling for motivation...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | RV-4 Horz Stab Front Spar Attach... |
Listers,
My original set of plans for my RV-4 are dated 1988. Recently, though,
I've been working from a new set, probably 1997 or so. I'm fitting my
horz stab to the fuse right now and I'm noticing a big difference in the
"old way" vs. the "new way" of mounting the front spar to the fuse. The
old way basically just bolted a 1" x 1" x .125" angle to the front spar with
three bolts, and the angle to fuse with two bolts, indicating that
washers should be used to 'shimming' as necessary.
Well, the new plans show a much different arrangement with *two* pieces
of angle - one on the top and one on the bottom - and that these angles
are *riveted* to the front spar and fuse bulkhead respectivly, and the
whole assembly is sandwitch bolted together through the top fuse longeron
with 4 bolts.
So what's the deal? Why the big change in attachment? Either way is
sort of a pain since drilling space is a little restricted at this
point, but certainly workable.
Any thoughts or in sight into this area would be most appreciated.
Matt Dralle
RV-4 #1763, N442RV to be...
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Smith II" <rls2(at)shreve.net> |
| Subject: | FOR SALE: RV-6A WIng and Empennage Kits |
I'm asking $3500 or best offer for both kits. The empennage is
complete and the wing kit is 40% complete. Wing items completed are: wing
spars (main and rear), ailerons and flaps, and the left wing skeleton. Main
skins are drilled and clecoed on. All interior components are primed and
workmanship is excellent. NO DINGS ! Both kits are pre-punched.
I've also thrown in tools ! Included are: pneumatic and manual
squeezer with several yokes, bucking bars, clecos, fan spacer, clamps,
pneumatic drill, etc, etc. Everything you would get in the RV starter and
add-on tool kits from Avery tools and more.
I live in Haughton Louisiana which is just outside Shreveport. If
interested e-mail or call me at (318) 949-4636.
________________________________________________________________________________
You can use one insturment with a switch to change between cylinders, but
"Always" have the ability to monitor all egt and cht's. It is better to use
a system which allows you to monitor them at the same time. I have a
Graphics Engine Monitor and love it.
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: RV-4 Horz Stab Front Spar Attach... |
>So what's the deal? Why the big change in attachment? Either way is
>sort of a pain since drilling space is a little restricted at this
>point, but certainly workable.
>
>Any thoughts or in sight into this area would be most appreciated.
>
>Matt Dralle
>RV-4 #1763, N442RV to be...
>
>
Hi Matt,
I came across the same thing when building my fuselage, my kit is pre '88
and my updated plans were from '99. I called Vans when I relized there was
a drastic difference in the fuselage assembly and the parts for the
attachment. Bill B. said the change came from some builders having problems
fitting the bolts to attach the front spar to the F410 bulkhead and and
interference with the VS attach bolts. I think there may have been a
problem from not getting the bolts tight because of the tight space between
the VS attach point and the but I'm not sure of any details of how bad the
problem was.
Anyway, a change was made to the drawings moving the top of the F410
bulkhead forward and calling the new split off piece F410A. The bolts now
are shown to go down through the 1x1x.125 angle and a lower angle. I think
the RV-6 has a similar attach scheme. Bill said either way was fine and
would serve the purpose but the new layout was easier to install and
service.
When I got to the tail end of my fuse I modified my kit and fabricated a new
F410A and aft deck to make mine the new style. If I remember correctly your
fuse is already done so your aft deck is in place and would be hard to
change if you have the one piece F410.
If you have the two piece F410 the attachment isn't too bad. Just fit the
HS to the rear attach first then find the exact for/aft position of the
upper 1x1 angle and drill the holes down through the aft deck and longeron
so the angle can be bolted to the fuse aft deck. Remove the angle and drill
the 1/8" holes in it for the attachment to the front spar. Bolt the angle
back onto the aft deck and clamp the front spar to it in the final position.
Use a right angle drill and use the predrilled holes as pilot holes to
drill the front spar to the angle. You might want to initially drill them
#40 just to keep them from getting too large when you do the final drilling.
Take the whole thing apart, clean it , deburr, prime, and use a squeezer
to rivet the angle to the front spar. Then bolt it back on the plane.
I used a small nephew to help get the nuts started on the lower side of the
aftdeck.
Good luck!
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 #154, N154PK reserved
Fitting the cowl and paying large visa bills!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Perry" <pperryrv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | metal wing and fuse jig avail in northeast |
Listers,
I have a nice all steel RV wing jig converted to a double wing jig and a
steel RV4 fuselage jig available for sale.
I am in north east Pennsylvania and can help with delivery in the northeast.
The wing jig can be seen at http://members.xoom.com/pjperry/WingsPhotos4.htm
The fuse jug can be seen at
http://members.xoom.com/pjperry/FuselagePhotos.htm
Contact me off-list if you are interested or if you know someone who might
be interested.
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 #154 N154PK reserved
pperryrv(at)hotmail.com
570-333-0952
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
"rv-list(at)matronics.com"
| Subject: | Wing Tip Vortex; The tiny plane was tossed ..... |
Yowsa, I almost crashed on landing today. I was just about to touch
down when the plane suddenly banked hard right and the right wheel hit
the pavement hard. I applied full left aileron and FULL power and headed
left to the edge of the runway at min controlable airspeed and manage to
get back up in the air. I sorted everything out and touched down farther
down the runway with no problems. Should have gone around but we got
8000' of pavement to play with.
What the heck did I hit. The winds were at 5 kt straight down the runway
and there had been very few bumps as I came down final. I never figured
it out until I got to work. Here is what I think happened.
When I was on short final ( ok 1 mile final) a 172 anounced imediate
depature runway 8, the same runway I was on short final for. He pulled
out and took off and I thought nothing of it exept that it was a little
rude. Seemed like plenty of spacing. I was just settling in about 500'
down the runway when all hell broke loose. I think it was his wing tip
vortices that had drifted down the runway and now had control of my
little plane. What else could it have been.? Does a 172 create that
large of a vortex on liftoff?
Anyway, be carefull out there and stay alert.
Gary
RV-6A N99PZ
38.7 TTAE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine decision time... |
--- Kbalch1(at)aol.com wrote:
> Bart will change my order to an -A1B6 (for $2500
> extra) and
> keep my August delivery date. MT says that I could go with the -A1A,
> but
> they haven't done a vibration analysis on it yet and I should avoid
> aerobatics in that case.
I recommend looking at the $2500 to change the engine to what the prop
manufacturer has tested and recommends, as a percentage of your
expected project cost.
You want to do aerobatics. You're set on the prop. The manufacturer
wants a particular engine for the prop. You can get that engine for a
"little bit" more.
Wouldn't it be worth it just to avoid the situation where you're upside
down and wondering?
Easy for me to say - not my money. But I have noticed since starting
this project how my threshold of "expensive" has gone up and up and
up...
:\
I also apply what I've learned in cabinet building:
Buy expensive tools and you'll only cry once.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Send online invitations with Yahoo! Invites.
http://invites.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BPattonsoa(at)aol.com |
Wierd, I just walked in from starting my first annual, and was heading to the
archive to look up tire wear. Exactly the same, worn on the outside, both
sides identical. You could place a straight edge on the tire it is worn so
flat, from the first bead to the second or third. Only 96 landings in the
140 hours. Original Vans tires, RV-6A, around 1150 lbs empty. About 10-15
landings were on grass or dirt. All (except one to be long remembered) were
smooth, wheel, no bounce.
I plan to reverse the tires, inside looks almost new. Still am going to the
archive.
Bruce Patton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Derek Reed" <dreed(at)cdsnet.net> |
| Subject: | Attaching cowl hinges |
Question on cowl hinge mounting. RV6A.
1. Is there any reason to use a strip of fiberglass material under the
hinges before attaching permanently with resin mix?
2. Would it serve the same purpose to thicken the resin mix with Cabosil and
apply this under the hinges?
Thanks
Derek Reed Grants Pass OR.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Vortex; The tiny plane was tossed ..... |
>Anyway, be carefull out there and stay alert.
Yes they will put out a nice swirl, especially on the quiet days when
nothing will move them out of the way.
Have a good one!
Denny Harjehausen
RV-6, Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Vortex; The tiny plane was tossed ..... |
--- Gary Zilik wrote:
>
>
> Yowsa, I almost crashed on landing today. I was
> just about to touch
> down when the plane suddenly banked hard right and
> the right wheel hit
> the pavement hard. I applied full left aileron and
> FULL power and headed
> left to the edge of the runway at min controlable
> airspeed and manage to
> get back up in the air. I sorted everything out and
> touched down farther
> down the runway with no problems. Should have gone
> around but we got
> 8000' of pavement to play with.
>
> What the heck did I hit. The winds were at 5 kt
> straight down the runway
> and there had been very few bumps as I came down
> final. I never figured
> it out until I got to work. Here is what I think
> happened.
>
> When I was on short final ( ok 1 mile final) a 172
> anounced imediate
> depature runway 8, the same runway I was on short
> final for. He pulled
> out and took off and I thought nothing of it exept
> that it was a little
> rude. Seemed like plenty of spacing. I was just
> settling in about 500'
> down the runway when all hell broke loose. I think
> it was his wing tip
> vortices that had drifted down the runway and now
> had control of my
> little plane. What else could it have been.? Does
> a 172 create that
> large of a vortex on liftoff?
>
> Anyway, be carefull out there and stay alert.
>
>
> Gary
> RV-6A N99PZ
> 38.7 TTAE
>
Gary:
Sounds like it was his wake. Heading into OSH 1998, I
was following an RV and a C-172 dropped right down in
between us. (1,800 and 90 KIAS) Took about 3/4
alerion back and forth to keep the wings level.
Oshkosh 1999, I was the forth of a flight of 4. We
forgot to brief about the wake on landing. We each
went through the wake from the RV in front of us. I
will tell you even from an RV, you have your hands
full when you are low and slow.
Recommend always aim past the point the aircraft in
front of you touched down when you are spaced less
than 3,000 feet.
536.6 hours
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Send online invitations with Yahoo! Invites.
http://invites.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Flashers & Landing Lights |
> Why can't I just use a Heavy Duty turn
> signal flasher from the auto parts store? I talked
> to the guy that worked
> there and he said that you can get them in all sorts
> of different ratings
> and he didn't see any problem with using it with a
> 55w landing light.
>
> Thanks
> Ed Perry
> edperry64(at)netzero.net
Why not use it. I am using the old style Heavy Duty
Flasher on 100W landing lights. (unit is rated at 14
Amps) It is the same one that was used to flash high
beams on police cars. Cost around $7.77 U.S. several
years ago. Very cheap. Has worked for the last 536.6
flying hours. I do not fly with them on all the time
but do use them a lot here in the Los Angeles basin.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Send online invitations with Yahoo! Invites.
http://invites.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pat_hatch" <pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com> |
Bruce:
Remember, not only do you reverse the tires from side to side, but also
reverse them on the wheels, right? Just wanted to make sure we're on the
same frequency here. I do this routinely at annual time, tires last a lot
longer. Seems like all RV's tires wear like this, on the outside. It
becomes pretty obvious when you let the airplane down off wing jacks and see
that the outside to the tires touch the ground first.
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH @ INT
RV-6, Waiting on the fuse.
----- Original Message -----
From: <BPattonsoa(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2000 10:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tire Wear
>
> Wierd, I just walked in from starting my first annual, and was heading to
the
> archive to look up tire wear. Exactly the same, worn on the outside, both
> sides identical. You could place a straight edge on the tire it is worn
so
> flat, from the first bead to the second or third. Only 96 landings in the
> 140 hours. Original Vans tires, RV-6A, around 1150 lbs empty. About
10-15
> landings were on grass or dirt. All (except one to be long remembered)
were
> smooth, wheel, no bounce.
>
> I plan to reverse the tires, inside looks almost new. Still am going to
the
> archive.
>
> Bruce Patton
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dumb Brake Commissioning Question |
>
>oil can with the red stuff. On your airplane, unscrew the brake
bleeder
>valve and attach the rubber hose to it and start pumping the fluid
into the
>brake system. Make sure that you remove the plug on the resevoir and
stick
>>a screwdriver in it so you can check the level; on the first brake
just get
>enough of the red stuff in the resevoir to fill the bottom. Careful,
the
>brake lines fill up in a hurry. Close the bleeder valve and remove
the
>hose, repeat on the other side but do fill up the resevoir. ...
>
I have used this method several times; it works well. However, I have
found that there are usually a few air bubbles still left in the
system after the hydraulic oil reaches the reservoir. I removed the
reservoir plug and replaced it with an AN816-2 nipple (cylinder primer
port fitting). I slipped a clear plastic tube over the fitting and
directed it to an overflow container. I pump the oil from the bottom
until it overflows and all of the bubbles clear. You can see the
bubbles rising through the plastic tube while you are pumping.
Mark Nielsen
RV-6, 468 hrs
Green Bay, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Pacific Coast Dream Machines (HAF) |
Will there be a lot of RVs at Half Moon Bay for the
Pacific Coast Dream Machines event on April 30?
http://www.miramarevents.com/dreammachines/
As of Tuesday night, there are 6 RVs from SoCAL Wing
Van's Air Force planning on attending. Weather needs
to be VFR.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Send online invitations with Yahoo! Invites.
http://invites.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <daronson(at)cwnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Horz Stab Front Spar Attach... |
Hey Matt:
My kit is No. 1304. The attachment was the previous method. My fuselage had
the longer rear top skin with the last bulkhead about 10 inches rear of the
current plans. I had to install a new upper rear bulkhead ( cant remember the
F4Number). The two angles were no problem really and I remember talking with
vans about the change. They thought it was a reinforcement issue for hs. I had
a .5 inch discrepency between the horizontal and vertical anterior attachment.
I made a spacer and drilled four holes with AN bolts. Looks like it will work.
I will have someone else fly it first though (HA).
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
Hanging engine real soon
Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> My original set of plans for my RV-4 are dated 1988. Recently, though,
> I've been working from a new set, probably 1997 or so. I'm fitting my
> horz stab to the fuse right now and I'm noticing a big difference in the
> "old way" vs. the "new way" of mounting the front spar to the fuse. The
> old way basically just bolted a 1" x 1" x .125" angle to the front spar with
> three bolts, and the angle to fuse with two bolts, indicating that
> washers should be used to 'shimming' as necessary.
>
> Well, the new plans show a much different arrangement with *two* pieces
> of angle - one on the top and one on the bottom - and that these angles
> are *riveted* to the front spar and fuse bulkhead respectivly, and the
> whole assembly is sandwitch bolted together through the top fuse longeron
> with 4 bolts.
>
> So what's the deal? Why the big change in attachment? Either way is
> sort of a pain since drilling space is a little restricted at this
> point, but certainly workable.
>
> Any thoughts or in sight into this area would be most appreciated.
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-4 #1763, N442RV to be...
>
> --
>
> Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <daronson(at)cwnet.com> |
| Subject: | Airflow boost pump placement |
Listers:
I have just received my Airflow Performance boost pump. Wow. It is
huge with the return piping and valve system. Would appreciate hearing
from anyone having mounted this system in an RV4. If I mount it left of
the battery it will take up alot of space, requiring a slight reposition
of the battery. Also, what about seperating the two with a formal
enclosure, possibly sealed to contain fuel if this big pump lets go.
Having all that fuel pressure right next to the battery has me thinking
safety design prior to problems.
Would appreciate any input from those who have solved this.
David Aronson
RV4 N504RV
Hanging engine soooon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "armstrong" <armstrong(at)coastside.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pacific Coast Dream Machines (HAF) |
I am a member of EAA chapter 639 out of HAF and will be working at Dream
Machines. I have been flying out of here for three years and have lived
here for twenty. If you are flying in from the south and see a large fog
bank, go under it at Ano Nuevo. The bottom should be above 600 feet. This
is about 20 NM south of HAF. It usually clears at the airport from about
1100 to 1600. From the north, you can try to go under at Stinson Beach.
From the east via SQL, fly over the Crystal Springs gap at 1800 feet and
follow the canyon in. Our whole chapter will be busy that weekend, but if
you need something contact us at our Popcorn booth at the north end of the
field or call me at 726-6190.
George Armstrong.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Attaching cowl hinges |
-----Original Message-----
From: Derek Reed <dreed(at)cdsnet.net>
>Question on cowl hinge mounting. RV6A.
>1. Is there any reason to use a strip of fiberglass material under the
>hinges before attaching permanently with resin mix?
>2. Would it serve the same purpose to thicken the resin mix with Cabosil
and
>apply this under the hinges?
>
>Thanks
>Derek Reed Grants Pass OR.
Derek: In my opinion there is no need to use the fiberglass strip.
Cab-O-Sil and/or cotton flock would work just fine. You would need to
roughen the area to be bonded. I also suggest you obtain some soft rivets.
Squeezing them will not crush the fiberglass and will minimize distortion of
the hinge leaf. I did one additional thing. I laid a strip of fiberglass
over the hinge leaf after it had been riveted. Not sure it is necessary
but, so far so good. Another suggestion; fit the hinge a little on the
loose side.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronen Yehiav <yron(at)isdn.net.il> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Vortex; The tiny plane was tossed ..... |
You are in a good company. Stories like yours abound -
sometimes with much more dire consequences:
The XB-70 crash... For example.
Ronen.
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary A. Sobek <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Wednesday, April 26, 2000 6:36 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing Tip Vortex; The tiny plane was tossed
.....
|
|--- Gary Zilik wrote:
|>
|>
|> Yowsa, I almost crashed on landing today. I was
|> just about to touch
|> down when the plane suddenly banked hard right and
|> the right wheel hit
|> the pavement hard. I applied full left aileron and
|> FULL power and headed
|> left to the edge of the runway at min controlable
|> airspeed and manage to
|> get back up in the air. I sorted everything out and
|> touched down farther
|> down the runway with no problems. Should have gone
|> around but we got
|> 8000' of pavement to play with.
|>
|> What the heck did I hit. The winds were at 5 kt
|> straight down the runway
|> and there had been very few bumps as I came down
|> final. I never figured
|> it out until I got to work. Here is what I think
|> happened.
|>
|> When I was on short final ( ok 1 mile final) a 172
|> anounced imediate
|> depature runway 8, the same runway I was on short
|> final for. He pulled
|> out and took off and I thought nothing of it exept
|> that it was a little
|> rude. Seemed like plenty of spacing. I was just
|> settling in about 500'
|> down the runway when all hell broke loose. I think
|> it was his wing tip
|> vortices that had drifted down the runway and now
|> had control of my
|> little plane. What else could it have been.? Does
|> a 172 create that
|> large of a vortex on liftoff?
|>
|> Anyway, be carefull out there and stay alert.
|>
|>
|> Gary
|> RV-6A N99PZ
|> 38.7 TTAE
|>
|
|Gary:
|
|Sounds like it was his wake. Heading into OSH 1998, I
|was following an RV and a C-172 dropped right down in
|between us. (1,800 and 90 KIAS) Took about 3/4
|alerion back and forth to keep the wings level.
|
|Oshkosh 1999, I was the forth of a flight of 4. We
|forgot to brief about the wake on landing. We each
|went through the wake from the RV in front of us. I
|will tell you even from an RV, you have your hands
|full when you are low and slow.
|
|Recommend always aim past the point the aircraft in
|front of you touched down when you are spaced less
|than 3,000 feet.
|
|536.6 hours
|
|====
|Gary A. Sobek
|"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
|Flying So. CA, USA
|http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
|
|Send online invitations with Yahoo! Invites.
|http://invites.yahoo.com
|
|
|
|
|
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
on 4/25/00 20:30, BPattonsoa(at)aol.com at BPattonsoa(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Wierd, I just walked in from starting my first annual, and was heading to the
> archive to look up tire wear. Exactly the same, worn on the outside, both
> sides identical. You could place a straight edge on the tire it is worn so
> flat, from the first bead to the second or third. Only 96 landings in the
> 140 hours. Original Vans tires, RV-6A, around 1150 lbs empty. About 10-15
> landings were on grass or dirt. All (except one to be long remembered) were
> smooth, wheel, no bounce.
>
> I plan to reverse the tires, inside looks almost new. Still am going to the
> archive.
>
> Bruce Patton
>
>
>
>
>
>
Have done a lot of interviews and fact straining on this subject with many
variables. IMHO, you are right on the norm; however It is unusual that you
are counting landings. It is a very good sign that you are wearing same on
both sides and that the outside is going first. Mine is a 180 HP 6A which
weighs a little over 1100 lbs. I got 250 landings on the original tires,
reversed at about 125 landings. I replaced with Condors, and got 450
landings (they have about twice as much tread). I am on the third set and
am trying for 500. I just rotated at 250 landings. All my ops are on paved
surface; however I strive to be very gentle with my undercarriage and its
shoes.
The good news is the nose tire lasts forever. I changed mine out at 900 but
it still had a bit of tread left.
--
Denis L.(Bum) Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Attaching cowl hinges |
In theory I agree a layer of glass under the hinge might be good...HOWEVER..I've
had very bad luck using epoxy (West, Aero-poxy and other good aircraft epoxies)
on polyester cowls. It sticks ok but I am able to peal it off like a sardine can
with needle nose pliers. The bond just wasn't there. I ground down, sanded and
did the normal prep, used proper cure & temps and I just had plane bad luck
getting a structural bond to polyester (at least Vans cowl). I used JB weld as
the tack agent under my hinges & proseal (depending on what project was going on
that week) with very good luck. The Hinge needs to roughed up and I used 1/8
inch holes every 3/4 or so inch for the JB Weld to ooze out.....(made me feel
better as I am not certain it added anything of value).
dreed(at)cdsnet.net on 04/25/2000 09:54:14 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Attaching cowl hinges
Question on cowl hinge mounting. RV6A.
1. Is there any reason to use a strip of fiberglass material under the
hinges before attaching permanently with resin mix?
2. Would it serve the same purpose to thicken the resin mix with Cabosil and
apply this under the hinges?
Thanks
Derek Reed Grants Pass OR.
________________________________________________________________________________
Aero-Trainers aren't known for their wearability. Vans includes these low-end
tires in his kits. If Iwere ordering I would delete his tires from the order
list & when the time comes I would order Michelin or some other brand name
(Goodyear is way to expensive). This helps because when you fit up your wheel
fairings you custom fit to the tire you end up getting anyway. If you don't
leave exrta room in the fairing void when assembling (using the Aero-Trainers)
you get a rub & small 50 cent piece sized hole when you upgrade tires. (Tape
some spacers on the tire top when fitting fairings)
pat_hatch(at)email.msn.com on 04/25/2000 11:23:51 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tire Wear
Bruce:
Remember, not only do you reverse the tires from side to side, but also
reverse them on the wheels, right? Just wanted to make sure we're on the
same frequency here. I do this routinely at annual time, tires last a lot
longer. Seems like all RV's tires wear like this, on the outside. It
becomes pretty obvious when you let the airplane down off wing jacks and see
that the outside to the tires touch the ground first.
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH @ INT
RV-6, Waiting on the fuse.
----- Original Message -----
From: <BPattonsoa(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2000 10:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tire Wear
>
> Wierd, I just walked in from starting my first annual, and was heading to
the
> archive to look up tire wear. Exactly the same, worn on the outside, both
> sides identical. You could place a straight edge on the tire it is worn
so
> flat, from the first bead to the second or third. Only 96 landings in the
> 140 hours. Original Vans tires, RV-6A, around 1150 lbs empty. About
10-15
> landings were on grass or dirt. All (except one to be long remembered)
were
> smooth, wheel, no bounce.
>
> I plan to reverse the tires, inside looks almost new. Still am going to
the
> archive.
>
> Bruce Patton
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Hiers" <craig-rv4(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Florida RV builders breakfast |
Rusty
You may already know about this but just to make sure-
The May Florida RV builders breakfast will be held at Cannon Creek flying
community May 13th.
Cannon Creek is about 6-8 miles south of Lake City, FL.
Cannon Creek puts on a breakfast every Saturday morning and has quite a
buffet.
The last gathering was at Ocala, if you want to see photo's go to
www.rotaryaviation.com
click on Photo's- Florida RV builders breakfast. My -4 is the 4th photo down
( a shameless plug ).
If the weather is nice there will be quite a few RV's.
Also, the same day the FSAACA flyin will be held at Fox Field ( about 15-20
miles south-west of Cannon).
FSAACA is a large group of plane owners who have a flyin once a month
somewhere in Florida.
The last one I went to there were about 150 planes and countless people.
Both events should be a lot of fun.
BTW, it sound like you are making a lot of progress
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH 92 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
Bruce,
Where does one procur an Oilamatic device? And what can we expect to pay?
Ed Storo rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Airflow boost pump placement |
Dave,
I mounted it to the right of the control stick and put my fuel selector
center in front of the stick. I used the clamps supplied and mounted one up
and one down to improve the rigidity, after the aluminum lines where pumped
and mounted the system is nice and solid. Put the filter on the outside of
the firewall for ease of servicing and eliminating gas spills in the cockpit.
Blue Skies,
Carey Mills
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Attaching cowl hinges |
I performed the following experiment on a section of cut-away scrap cowl
section:
1) Hinge riveted directly to cowl section.
2) Hinge bedded to cowl section as follows:
A) Wipe hinge and cowl with acetone
B) Rough up contact surfaces with 40 grip open coat paper -- real deep
scratches in aluminum!
C) 5/8 wide 8 oz BID strip wetted and rolled out between Saran wrap -- West
epoxy
D) Cleco together with clecoes dipped in engine oil (purist composite
artists will say no!)
E) After cured, squeeze rivets gently -- pure aluminum would be better
Results: The straight riveted hinge section showed puckering and distortion
at each rivet --the bedded section was distortion free.
When I put the hinges on the cowl, I did one line at a time and let the
assembly cure on airplane. My longitudinal pins go in with about 1 pound of
force.
Note that there is considerable confusion generated by Van's instructions
and the RVAtor articles. In particular, the instructions refer to 3/4 oz
matt -- there is no such animal. Secondly, matt is never to be used with
epoxy because the matt fibers are coated with an agent that dissolves in
polyester resin but acts as a release agent with epoxy! A good reference
is "Composite Basics" by Andrew C. Marshall.
Cabosil is a thickener but only weakens the bond. If you need gap-filling
(as when the hinge rides up on the joggle) consider quartz micro (more
compliant) or flock (much stronger and also more brittle).
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Derek Reed <dreed(at)cdsnet.net>
Date: Tuesday, April 25, 2000 9:55 PM
Subject: RV-List: Attaching cowl hinges
>
>Question on cowl hinge mounting. RV6A.
>
>1. Is there any reason to use a strip of fiberglass material under the
>hinges before attaching permanently with resin mix?
>
>
>2. Would it serve the same purpose to thicken the resin mix with Cabosil
and
>apply this under the hinges?
>
>Thanks
>Derek Reed Grants Pass OR.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
I have thought about using a higher quality tire when I replace mine. I
have about 350 hours on mine and I rotated them at around 225. I have heard
horror stories about different tires not fitting into the wheel pants. Can
you share your specifics on your setup? I have the stock one piece pants
with the stock wheels. Will the Condor's fit?
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
RV6A - First flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)micron.net
> reversed at about 125 landings. I replaced with Condors, and got 450
> landings (they have about twice as much tread). I am on the third set and
> am trying for 500. I just rotated at 250 landings. All my ops are on
paved
> surface; however I strive to be very gentle with my undercarriage and its
> shoes.
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 4/26/00 7:11:09 AM Pacific Daylight Time, pcondon(at)csc.com
writes:
<< I too have the GEM. Great unit. I also have a Allegro unit. The Allegro
is less
then half the cost of the GEM >>
Do you have web addresses or phone numbers for GEM and Allegro? Thanks.
Harry Crosby
-6 finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | VOR database wanted (not directly RV related) |
(Not related to RV building)
I'm on the road to getting IFR current after 3+ years of not flying (while building).
Hood work in my RV-6A indicates the plane is certainly capable of IFR
flight, but I'm rusty rusty rusty.
On the basis of some research and the recommendation of a high-time TC/FA/retired fighter pilot, I've invested in the AirChart system (www.airchart.com), which gives me national VFR and IFR coverage for just over $300/year. The one downside to the system is an issue with updating airway changes. As the system currently works, the listing of airway changes specifies the nearest VOR on the route, but doesn't call out the map page where the VOR is located (my old Jepp charts used a similar system, but called out the impacted map page and quadrant). The lack of map page location may make updating a tedious affair.
The AirCharts airway updates are available electronically (to subscribers), so
if I can get my hands on a list of all US VORs (by name) with lattitude and longitude,
it'll be a pretty simple matter to get Excel to identify the impacted
map page via a lookup routine. So...
Does anybody know of an internet source for a listing of all US VORs with lattitude
and longitude? I'm aware of the one-at-a-time database lookups that landings.com
offers, but that doesn't meet the need.
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
Tim Lewis
RV-6A N47TD
First Flight 18 Dec 99
Springfield VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Anyone have Moe's new email address and/or phone number.
Thanks,
Chuck Rowbotham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Bill & Jeremy Remembered |
Listers,
We have all just lost an important part of our community in Bill & Jeremy
Benedict. I know for me the grief and sadness can also be frustrating
because I wish there was something I could DO -- perhaps you know the
feeling. About the only thing I could think of was to collect the outpouring
of sentiment and remembrances and put it together to remember them in a
fitting way. I am the newsletter editor for the Home Wing of Van's Air Force
and have compiled a special issue in tribute... "Bill & Jeremy Remembered".
It is merely a collection of the fine things the RV community (all of you)
have had to say. There are remembrances from several of his good local
friends, but also from RVers from across the country. The fine eulogy
delivered by Bill's friend and fellow EAAer Rion Bourgeouis is also
included. Believe me, it is moving.
Since these two were known widely outside just their local group here in the
Portland area, I thought it important to share it with the entire community.
Therefore this issue will be posted for everyone to download. Matt Dralle
and Randall Henderson have graciously volunteered to post it on their sites,
the RV List home page and the Home Wing home page respectively, for
download. It is an Adobe Acrobat file and of course requires Acrobat Reader
to open.
www.matronics.com/rv-list
www.edt.com/homewing
Our lives are richer for having known Bill and Jeremy, and even if you
didn't know them personally for their influence on our "world". I'd bet
almost everyone reading this message has at least sat in a seminar at a
fly-in or a builder's group meeting and listened to Bill. And I'll also be
that everyone reading this message has been to the Van's web site and
experienced one of Jeremy's contributions to our world.
Perhaps this tribute can help us all remember as they deserve to be
remembered.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronen Yehiav <yron(at)isdn.net.il> |
|
|Bruce,
|Where does one procur an Oilamatic device? And what can we
expect to pay?
|
|Ed Storo rv8
And - Is there a URL?
Ronen.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Gray <brucegray(at)earthlink.net> |
The information I have (several years old) is;
George McCrillis
President
Oilamatic, Inc
Englewood, CO
303-770-0175
$715 for 12v, $765 for 24v, experimental aircraft only. Certified
installation higher. No URL
Bruce
Glasair III
Ronen Yehiav wrote:
>
> |
> |Bruce,
> |Where does one procur an Oilamatic device? And what can we
> expect to pay?
> |
> |Ed Storo rv8
>
> And - Is there a URL?
> Ronen.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) |
| Subject: | Re: VOR database wanted (not directly RV related) |
Tim Lewis wrote:
>
>
> (Not related to RV building)
>
> I'm on the road to getting IFR current after 3+ years of not flying (while building).
Hood work in my RV-6A indicates the plane is certainly capable of IFR
flight, but I'm rusty rusty rusty.
>
> On the basis of some research and the recommendation of a high-time TC/FA/retired fighter pilot, I've invested in the AirChart system (www.airchart.com), which gives me national VFR and IFR coverage for just over $300/year. The one downside to the system is an issue with updating airway changes. As the system currently works, the listing of airway changes specifies the nearest VOR on the route, but doesn't call out the map page where the VOR is located (my old Jepp charts used a similar system, but called out the impacted map page and quadrant). The lack of map page location may make updating a tedious affair.
>
> The AirCharts airway updates are available electronically (to subscribers), so
if I can get my hands on a list of all US VORs (by name) with lattitude and
longitude, it'll be a pretty simple matter to get Excel to identify the impacted
map page via a lookup routine. So...
>
> Does anybody know of an internet source for a listing of all US VORs with lattitude
and longitude? I'm aware of the one-at-a-time database lookups that landings.com
offers, but that doesn't meet the need.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim Lewis
> Tim Lewis
> RV-6A N47TD
> First Flight 18 Dec 99
> Springfield VA
>
>
Tim--
Try http://acc.nos.noaa.gov/Catalog/NAVAIDFile.html
Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bill & Jeremy Remembered |
Randy,
Thanks,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
Niantic, CT
________________________________________________________________________________
My net server T-1 line is down...I found the contact data for Allegro in the
yeller pages.
HCRV6(at)aol.com on 04/26/2000 12:58:41 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: egt & cht
In a message dated 4/26/00 7:11:09 AM Pacific Daylight Time, pcondon(at)csc.com
writes:
<< I too have the GEM. Great unit. I also have a Allegro unit. The Allegro
is less
then half the cost of the GEM >>
Do you have web addresses or phone numbers for GEM and Allegro? Thanks.
Harry Crosby
-6 finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Karl Schilling <k_schilling(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Bill & Jeremy Remembered |
Randy Thank You! Karl RV-8 Indy
-----Original Message-----
From: Charles Rowbotham [SMTP:crowbotham(at)hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2000 01:52
Subject: Re: RV-List: Bill & Jeremy Remembered
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b green <rvinfo(at)juno.com> |
The Oilamatic pump is available from Oilamatic Inc. P.O. Box5284,
Englewood, CO 80155-5284 and I have a phone number of 800/343-7623.
http://www.oilamatic.com
I think the price is just under a thousand, and a little more if it is
for a certified plane. It is an electric oil pump, I believe a positive
displacement pump like the one in the engine. It is a much bigger motor
than I would have thought necessary, however George McCrillis has been
making them for a long time and has put a lot of thought into the design.
These are aircraft specific pumps.
Bruce Green
RV-8 plans
>>Is the Oilamatic an aftermarket product, or something that was
offered on the engine originally? Is it a mechanical, or electric pump?
<<
> Where does one procur an Oilamatic device? And what can we expect to
> pay?
>
> Ed Storo rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
Had an opportunity to look inside of a unprimed wing of a popular single
engine low wing four place. The fiberglass wing tip had been removed to
repair a crack.
There was heavy corrosion throughout, pitting through the alclad surfaces.
The lower surface had a gummy layer of dirt about .032 thick.
I was able to get the history since new in 1974.
Two years parked outside at a coastal airport.
Four years in a closed hangar some 20 miles from the coast.
The balance parked outside in a relatively dry low humidity area.
The records indicate that some sort of anti corrosion fluid was sprayed into
the interior of the wing through the inspection openings when it was six
years old. This would account for the gummy dirty lower surface.
This is consistent with what I have seen over the years on unprimed aircraft
of this age,varying from severe corrosion on float equipped coastal a/c to
moderate on a/c in humid areas to nearly none in dry areas. Also a wide
variation between hangared and a/c that have spent most of the time outside.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. Finished drilling the top rear skins on the
6A today.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
Going on 30 years old, not primed at all, and still airworthy. Lemme
see.....30 years from now I'll be 62. Hmmm......
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2000 7:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: Corrosion
>
> Had an opportunity to look inside of a unprimed wing of a popular single
> engine low wing four place. The fiberglass wing tip had been removed to
> repair a crack.
>
> There was heavy corrosion throughout, pitting through the alclad surfaces.
> The lower surface had a gummy layer of dirt about .032 thick.
>
> I was able to get the history since new in 1974.
>
> Two years parked outside at a coastal airport.
> Four years in a closed hangar some 20 miles from the coast.
> The balance parked outside in a relatively dry low humidity area.
>
> The records indicate that some sort of anti corrosion fluid was sprayed
into
> the interior of the wing through the inspection openings when it was six
> years old. This would account for the gummy dirty lower surface.
>
> This is consistent with what I have seen over the years on unprimed
aircraft
> of this age,varying from severe corrosion on float equipped coastal a/c to
> moderate on a/c in humid areas to nearly none in dry areas. Also a wide
> variation between hangared and a/c that have spent most of the time
outside.
>
> Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. Finished drilling the top rear skins on
the
> 6A today.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Allegro (was: egt & cht) |
Where do you find the Allegro for $495?! The web site shows $995 for just
the basic unit...double that if you want all the extras with it.
I'm considering the Allegro too. Glad to hear I'm not the only one. (I
didn't see any in the planes at SNF.)
Larry Bowen
RV-8 wings
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of pcondon(at)csc.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2000 7:34 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: egt & cht
I too have the GEM. Great unit. I also have a Allegro unit. The Allegro is
less
then half the cost of the GEM. (Gem 602 1100$ & Alegro 495$) The GEM is
great.
The Alegro is great. My new RV-8 is getting the Alegro because of the cost
differential....600$ for other toys....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Subject: Re: RV-List: Corrosion
>
> Going on 30 years old, not primed at all, and still airworthy. Lemme
> see.....30 years from now I'll be 62. Hmmm......
>
> Bill
>
Hey Bill!
Sixty two will be upon you before you know it }:>). Just having bumped
pass the 60 mark myself I hope to be flying for another 20 years. Glad to
see you did not wait until late 50s to start building your dream. Got
started late but finished my RV-6A and have 70 hours on it. Hope I last as
long as it will.}:>).
Lets see, 30+20 =50 years and having primed it, heck my Great Grandson
should be able to fly it with no worry.
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW
Matthews NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
do not archieve.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | RV-8 fuse jig in Ottawa, Canada |
Several friends helped me pull my RV-8 fuselage out of the jig after
work today, so I need to get rid of my jig. It is a straight, solid
jig, and it is free to a good home. I've got it sitting outside
under a tarp right now, so it probably won't stay straight too long.
I'll be on the road for much of the next several weeks, and may not
be getting e-mail at this account. I will be getting my work e-mail
though, so you can reach me at hortonk(at)tc.gc.ca My wife will be home
most evenings, and on the weekend, so you can still pick up the jig
in my absence.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (cockpit floors)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lkyswede(at)aol.com |
Not corrosion topic
??? Does a FACET PUMP have a bypass feature???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Anthony J Castellano <tcastella(at)juno.com> |
I have the following parts for sale:
Carburetor - Marvel Schebler Model MA-4-5 $400.00
OBO
Alternator - Model C611501-0102 $50.00 OBO
Fuel Pump - AC 230R 40295 $25.00 OBO
Spinner - 14 inch Diameter with backplate for constant speed prop
Aluminum like new condition $150.00 OBO
Tony Castellano
tcastella(at)juno.com
Hopewell Junction, NY
RV-6 (N401TC reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <daronson(at)cwnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Airflow boost pump placement |
Carey:
Thanks for the input. I think I will mount the pump to the left of the battery,
isolate it from the battery by sealing the aluminum seperator with proseal,
making a removeable access cover that will be sealed. Then I'll drill a drain
hole out the bottom of the floor.
Thanks for your help!
Dave Aronson
RV4
Rvmils(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Dave,
> I mounted it to the right of the control stick and put my fuel selector
> center in front of the stick. I used the clamps supplied and mounted one up
> and one down to improve the rigidity, after the aluminum lines where pumped
> and mounted the system is nice and solid. Put the filter on the outside of
> the firewall for ease of servicing and eliminating gas spills in the cockpit.
> Blue Skies,
> Carey Mills
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denny Harjehausen <harje(at)proaxis.com> |
>Going on 30 years old, not primed at all, and still airworthy. Lemme
>see.....30 years from now I'll be 62. Hmmm......
>
>Bill
Gee Bill, I primed because I'm only 68 and I don't want any corrosion in my
RV-6 to worry about in 30 or 35 years from now.
Denny
Have good one!
Denny
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
on 4/26/00 9:42, Ed Bundy at ebundy(at)micron.net wrote:
>
> I have thought about using a higher quality tire when I replace mine. I
> have about 350 hours on mine and I rotated them at around 225. I have heard
> horror stories about different tires not fitting into the wheel pants. Can
> you share your specifics on your setup? I have the stock one piece pants
> with the stock wheels. Will the Condor's fit?
>
> Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
> RV6A - First flight 11/20/96
> ebundy(at)micron.net
The condors seemed to have the same clearance as the Van's original issue.
I have the original two piece pants. They looked wider when they came but
when inflated were the same dimesion. These are the cheaper three ply I
think, not the multi ply; although they look about the same to me also.
Am thinking of trying the retreads next time!
>
>
>
>
--
Denis L.(Bum) Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
| Subject: | Re: Engine decision time... |
Just my $2 worth. I let Monty Barrett talk me into the counterwieghted
crank IO-360 due to the better harmonics. I want it smooth and min
stress on the prop during acro so thats what he built up for me.
Especially since I went with 10:1 pistons.
Talked to MT during the decision process and really wanted one but let
the price talk me out of it. They responded well to many letters and
I'm sure the prop will work nicely. Not as much torque on the crank hub
in acro. I would have gone with the 2 bladed version for the weight
savings up front.
mailsorter-101-6.iap.bryant.webtv.net (8.8.8-wtv-f/ms.dwm.v7+dul2)
From: Kbalch1(at)aol.com
Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 18:30:36 EDT
Subject: RV-List: Engine decision time...
Well, I thought I was all set on an IO-360-A1A from Bart. I'd sent them a
deposit and currently have an August delivery date. Along comes MT Propeller
to gum up the works.
I've had my heart set on a 3-blade prop and was glad to see that MT will now
be offered through Van's. I know, I know, two for go and three for
show...yada, yada. I never said it was a rational decision. :-) Besides,
MT has a good reputation for optimizing their props to squeak the maximum
performance out of a given engine & airframe combination. Also, they've got
a good history of working with the experimental world, though mostly in the
hardcore aerobatic community.
In any case, having mostly decided to get an MT, I was looking through the
materials I gathered at SnF and found that they recommend the IO-360-A1B6 for
its "...sixth order dampeners...". Presumably, they're talking about the
counterweights. Bart will change my order to an -A1B6 (for $2500 extra) and
keep my August delivery date. MT says that I could go with the -A1A, but
they haven't done a vibration analysis on it yet and I should avoid
aerobatics in that case. Granted, these are experimentals and I can do what
I want, but would that be wise in this case?
Not to mention the whole issue of counterweighted prop vs.
non-counterweighted. Both sorts are available from MT -- for a price, of
course.
The mission of my -8 will be predominantly local sport flying, to include
Sportsman level aerobatics (I'll have inverted fuel & oil), and the
occasional long cross-country. With this in mind: -A1A or -A1B6?
Counterweighted prop or non-counterweighted? I've got to admit that I'm
baffled...
Regards,
Ken Balch
Ashland, MA
RV-8 #81125
left wing dragging on...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Vortex; The tiny plane was tossed ..... |
Yes, similar size aircraft can create quite a nice vortex given the
right conditions.
mailsorter-101-7.iap.bryant.webtv.net (8.8.8-wtv-f/ms.dwm.v7+dul2)
Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 19:55:04 -0600
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com>
Subject: RV-List: Wing Tip Vortex; The tiny plane was tossed .....
Yowsa, I almost crashed on landing today. I was just about to touch
down when the plane suddenly banked hard right and the right wheel hit
the pavement hard. I applied full left aileron and FULL power and headed
left to the edge of the runway at min controlable airspeed and manage to
get back up in the air. I sorted everything out and touched down farther
down the runway with no problems. Should have gone around but we got
8000' of pavement to play with.
What the heck did I hit. The winds were at 5 kt straight down the runway
and there had been very few bumps as I came down final. I never figured
it out until I got to work. Here is what I think happened.
When I was on short final ( ok 1 mile final) a 172 anounced imediate
depature runway 8, the same runway I was on short final for. He pulled
out and took off and I thought nothing of it exept that it was a little
rude. Seemed like plenty of spacing. I was just settling in about 500'
down the runway when all hell broke loose. I think it was his wing tip
vortices that had drifted down the runway and now had control of my
little plane. What else could it have been.? Does a 172 create that
large of a vortex on liftoff?
Anyway, be carefull out there and stay alert.
Gary
RV-6A N99PZ
38.7 TTAE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net (Joe Waltz) |
Phil Smith,
Thanks for the reward. I'll buy a couple of gallons of Avgas with it
when the time comes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
----- Original Message -----
From: Eustace Bowhay <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
>
> There was heavy corrosion throughout, pitting through the alclad surfaces.
Eustace:
I could not help but respond to your observations. I see several are making
light of your comments on corrosion. They have obviously not been around
airplanes as long as some of us, nor lived near the coast as we do. I take
corrosion seriously. I'm priming every inch of metal I can get to with
epoxy primer, EVEN over the wash primer Van uses on the quick builds. Yes,
it probably adds close to 50 or more hours to the building process, but
we're building airplanes here. Well, this should generate a few comments.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q
Issaquah (near Seattle), WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom" <tomrv8(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Dumb Brake Commissioning Question |
----- Original Message -----
>
> Doug:
>
> Early RV-4's had the brake master cylinders mounted upside down and were
> impossible to bleed properly without first turning them right side up,
> bleeding, then restoring them to the normal upside-down position.
I have an early RV4, which I have fully bled the brakes probably 6 or 7
times in the 10 years I've been flying. I've always been able to bleed them
in a relatively short time using the typical fill the reservoir from the
top, pump the brakes, release the air out the bottom routine. I haven't had
to remove the master cylinders and turn them "right side up" to get them to
fully bleed. Don't know why it works for me and not for others, but I just
wanted to add another side to the story...
Tom
RV4 flying
RV8 under construction (it doesn't get any better than flying one RV while
building another...)
________________________________________________________________________________
I got mine up in anderson last Aug. for my RV-8 for 7000.00 , but don't tell
them I said that.
________________________________________________________________________________
As I recall hammerheads in the Cap 10, IO360, fixed pitch as taught by The
French Connection school in Flagler Beach, Florida;
Straight and level, full power, stick back to the tune of 3 to 4 g's looking
to the left to line up wing perpendicular to the horizon, looking back and
forth from wing to airspeed. Approaching 60 mph, full left rudder, right
stick to keep right wing from coming out of geometric arc, opposite rudder
to stop turn, establish downline, pull out keeping dirt moving past the nose
at constant rate to straight and level.
Great fun in the Cap 10, can't wait to try it in the "8".
Dennis Clay #80473 nearing canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | Using a Laser Level to Align the Horizontal Stabilizer... |
Hello Listers,
I set to work this week mounting my horz stab to the fuse and quickly
realized that getting a perfect fit might not be that easy. Earlier in
the week I had been talking to a friend, quite coincidently, about a
cool thing called a "laser level". For those, like myself, that don't
know what a laser level is or how it works here's the quick and dirty.
Basically the unit is a small square box with bubble level in the X, Y
and Z directions. On the top of the box is a turret of sorts with a
bright red laser diode. This turret is connected to a small electric
motor that spins at an adjustable rate from about 10 RPM up to about
600 RPM. This has the affect of drawing a red line in a 360 circle
around the box. Depending on how well and what you adjust to box to in
terms of "level" you can then align two plains together that are quite
some distance apart. I set the laser level box up on one of the forward
fuse. bulkheads, making sure that it was level with respect to the wing
spar attachments and then adjusted the laser so that it hit the horz.
stab right down the leading edge. It was then a no-brainer to adjust
the "levelness" of the stab in relationship to the wing spars using the
bright red line.
Bottom line is that its a pretty expensive little toy, er, I mean
tool, but I sure wish that I had had one when I was building the tail,
wing and fuse. jigs! Not to mention verifying the "straightness" of the
parts I was building in the jigs. Anyway, I've included a few links to
some pictures I took of the laser level in action. They are a bit
grainy because I had to get the room pretty dark so that the laser line
would show up in the photos. In practice, you don't really have to
work in the dark to use the laser level. :-)
http://www.matronics.com/MattsRV4/MiscPictures/Stab_LaserLevel1.jpg
http://www.matronics.com/MattsRV4/MiscPictures/Stab_LaserLevel2.jpg
http://www.matronics.com/MattsRV4/MiscPictures/Stab_LaserLevel3.jpg
http://www.matronics.com/MattsRV4/MiscPictures/Stab_LaserLevel4.jpg
Enjoy,
Matt Dralle
RV-4 #1763, N442RV to be...
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul & Gerti RV-4 F-1 006" <gertivs(at)netzero.net> |
I have been experimenting with "rolls on a point" with my -4. During the
roll, the plane has moderate yaw and about -1 g while inverted (although
for a very short time). Each time I distinctly smell avgas. The plane is
c/s with 0-360 and carb. An a&p and I have pulled off the cowl, followed
the fuel lines and found nothing; no obvious leaks, no stains. I am out of
ideas for possible problem areas except: Could gas actually be coming from
the carb itself while inverted? If so, is the burp anything to worry about?
Can I can prevent it? Lastly, is it enough to cause a fire?
Paul Vander Schuur
Modesto, CA
Click here for FREE Internet Access and Email
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
Mike,
If I lived in Seattle, I would too. I spent 6 weeks working on A-6s at
Whidby Island in the early '60s and it rained every day. Seriously, I spent
10 years in Navair including 3 cruises. The Nav takes corrosion quite
seriously and we used a spray anti corrosion fluid in each screw hole before
replacing panels every time we worked on them. I believe it was CRC 5-56.
One of the few items without a DOD P/N. Here in Arizona, I'm just doing any
metal interfaces and ensuring that there are no moisture trap areas in the
winge and fuselage. Of course, I also prime any non alclad parts. The RV8
plans actually notes when parts must be primed.
Bill Christie, RV8A, Wings, Phoenix
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael J. Robbins <kitfox(at)gte.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2000 8:21 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Corrosion
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Eustace Bowhay <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
> >
> > There was heavy corrosion throughout, pitting through the alclad
surfaces.
>
> Eustace:
>
> I could not help but respond to your observations. I see several are
making
> light of your comments on corrosion. They have obviously not been around
> airplanes as long as some of us, nor lived near the coast as we do. I
take
> corrosion seriously. I'm priming every inch of metal I can get to with
> epoxy primer, EVEN over the wash primer Van uses on the quick builds.
Yes,
> it probably adds close to 50 or more hours to the building process, but
> we're building airplanes here. Well, this should generate a few comments.
>
> Mike Robbins
> RV8Q
> Issaquah (near Seattle), WA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com> |
"Rocket List"
| Subject: | Flying RV-6A For Sale |
Hello Listers,
For those who might want the ultimate Quick Built (i.e. it is flying), check
out Wendell's RV-6A. The details can be found at the following site. Plus,
there are several pictures and info of how to contact him.
http://hometown.aol.com/hoatsons/index.htm
I have flown in this plane several times and it produces the RV grin
everytime. Even with the 150 HP engine and fixed prop, it has carried the
both of us (250+) guys from Big Bear Airport (density Alt of over 9000) on a
hot summer day with no problems.
Anyway, please contact him as anything sent to me will be delayed as I
forward it on.
Tom Gummo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bill & Jeremy Remembered |
What am I doing wrong?
When I check on the site, another windows opens and states that it is
installing components and then stops.
> www.matronics.com/rv-list
I am using Internet Explorer.
Anybody getting it to work?
Thanks,
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "armstrong" <armstrong(at)coastside.net> |
Someone asked me to post the costs for Dream Machines.
Experimentals, Warbirds and 'special' airplanes get in free. Don't ask me
what qualifies in the special category. We see a lot of nice planes around
here. I would assume it takes a really clean classic to get in the
'special' section. EAA chapter 639 is the home chapter. We will have a
booth selling popcorn and soda near light tower on Sunday. Several of us
will be around on Saturday to help as needed.
Some people are flying in Saturday afternoon. The Pilot's Assocation has a
dinner and movies at Eddie Andrinnis hangar at the south end of the runway
starting at 5:00. $20 per person. You can camp on the field. There are
three good bars and several good restaurants within walking distance.
Several beaches are less than one mile away.
This is one of the coolest shows you will ever see. Everything from steam
engines to jet-powered dragsters. The cars are unbelievable.
The weather is supposed to be great. It can get cold here.
George Armstrong.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "edperry64" <edperry64(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bill & Jeremy Remembered |
Hi Gummos
The RV-list download works I'm doing while sending this to you. I had no
luck with the other site.
Side note: I was doing some work at VCV Tuesday and wanted to come see your
project. I couldn't remember if you were at L26 or APV. Maybe next time.
Ed Perry
edperry64(at)netzero.net
-----Original Message-----
From: Gummos <tg1965(at)linkline.com>
Date: Wednesday, April 26, 2000 11:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Bill & Jeremy Remembered
>
>What am I doing wrong?
>When I check on the site, another windows opens and states that it is
>installing components and then stops.
>> www.matronics.com/rv-list
>I am using Internet Explorer.
>
>Anybody getting it to work?
>
>Thanks,
>Tom Gummo
>Apple Valley, CA
>
>
Click here for FREE Internet Access and Email
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
I suspect that when you get inverted at -1 g the fuel
is pooling into your tank vent and when you go back
positive it comes out of the vent giving you a gas
smell for a little bit. If every thing is tight in
your system this is the only way fuel can get out
Glenn
--- Paul & Gerti RV-4 F-1 006
wrote:
> F-1 006"
>
> I have been experimenting with "rolls on a point"
> with my -4. During the
> roll, the plane has moderate yaw and about -1 g
> while inverted (although
> for a very short time). Each time I distinctly
> smell avgas. The plane is
> c/s with 0-360 and carb. An a&p and I have pulled
> off the cowl, followed
> the fuel lines and found nothing; no obvious leaks,
> no stains. I am out of
> ideas for possible problem areas except: Could gas
> actually be coming from
> the carb itself while inverted? If so, is the burp
> anything to worry about?
> Can I can prevent it? Lastly, is it enough to cause
> a fire?
>
> Paul Vander Schuur
> Modesto, CA
>
>
> Click here for FREE Internet Access and Email
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
?
Did you mean to sent to the RV-List or Phil Smith?
-----Original Message-----
From: TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net [mailto:TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net]
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2000 9:38 PM
Subject:
Phil Smith,
Thanks for the reward. I'll buy a couple of gallons of Avgas with it
when the time comes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine decision time... |
Hi Joe,
I also want my engine to be as smooth as possible, so I've decided to go with
the counterweighted crank -A1B6. Since I'm only planning Sportsman-level
aerobatics with this plane, I'll go with the non-counterweighted prop.
MT has been great to deal with so far, both in person at SnF and via email.
They take several days to return mail, but their answers are extremely
thorough. I will definitely give them my business.
Regards,
Ken Balch
In a message dated 4/26/2000 10:34:34 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
TRAASHMAN(at)webtv.net writes:
> Just my $2 worth. I let Monty Barrett talk me into the counterwieghted
> crank IO-360 due to the better harmonics. I want it smooth and min
> stress on the prop during acro so thats what he built up for me.
> Especially since I went with 10:1 pistons.
>
> Talked to MT during the decision process and really wanted one but let
> the price talk me out of it. They responded well to many letters and
> I'm sure the prop will work nicely. Not as much torque on the crank hub
> in acro. I would have gone with the 2 bladed version for the weight
> savings up front.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Lightening holes |
Hey folks,
I'm back - With a new E-Mail address. Same RV6A though...
And some questions about lightening holes...
Remember the spacer that you had to build for the Rudder? Ya that little
1-1/8 x 3-1/2 piece of .032 shaped like the bottom third of the R-606 that's
sitting on the other side of the spar??? Well, I was thinking about putting
a couple of 1/2" lightening holes in it to save some weight (every microgram
counts when it's hung out that far!).
All it is doing is filling space in compression (rather than tension or
shear) so I think I'm allright here.
Any ideas on the subject from you stress engineers?
Ralph Capen
RV6A Emp while the rest of the QB comes - building spars
N822AR reserved
Richardson, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Allegro (was: egt & cht) |
Got mine about 3.5 years ago and it was discounted because I was installing in
a
homebuilt. I am unaware if there is still a discount for homebuilts. The company
may have certified it in the meanwhile and the cost was raised accordingly.
See if there is a FBO discount. See if there is a Home built discount. We are
all A&P's ( well sorta ) if not now , certainly when we get out toys certified.
I use my company name and sorta expect a discount over retail because I AM the
mechanic on MY RV.........
Larry(at)bowenaero.com on 04/26/2000 08:30:35 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: Allegro (was: egt & cht)
Where do you find the Allegro for $495?! The web site shows $995 for just
the basic unit...double that if you want all the extras with it.
I'm considering the Allegro too. Glad to hear I'm not the only one. (I
didn't see any in the planes at SNF.)
Larry Bowen
RV-8 wings
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of pcondon(at)csc.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2000 7:34 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: egt & cht
I too have the GEM. Great unit. I also have a Allegro unit. The Allegro is
less
then half the cost of the GEM. (Gem 602 1100$ & Alegro 495$) The GEM is
great.
The Alegro is great. My new RV-8 is getting the Alegro because of the cost
differential....600$ for other toys....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Yohannes Kayir" <yohanneskayir(at)netzero.net> |
Fellow Listers,
while on the egt & cht thread, does any one have any opinions/experiences
with the KSA (KS Avionics Inc.) Tetra II unit?
Yohann Kayir
Pensacola, FL.
RV4 - finishing kit
engine installation next.
Click here for FREE Internet Access and Email
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dream Machines |
| From: | "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
Where is this?
Shelby Smith
shelbysmith(at)mac.com
----------
>From: "armstrong" <armstrong(at)coastside.net>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Dream Machines
>Date: Thu, Apr 27, 2000, 1:14 AM
>
>
> This is one of the coolest shows you will ever see. Everything from steam
> engines to jet-powered dragsters. The cars are unbelievable.
>
> The weather is supposed to be great. It can get cold here.
>
> George Armstrong.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keith Hughes <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bill & Jeremy Remembered |
Tom,
I'm getting pretty much the same thing, and I'm using Netscape. I used
the "view source" command to see that it is downloading something into
the dick cache, but it's not displaying it on my machine.
Keith Hughes
RV-6 Tanks
Parker, CO
Gummos wrote:
>
> What am I doing wrong?
> When I check on the site, another windows opens and states that it is
> installing components and then stops.
> > www.matronics.com/rv-list
> I am using Internet Explorer.
>
> Anybody getting it to work?
>
> Thanks,
> Tom Gummo
> Apple Valley, CA
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)aa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pacific Coast Dream Machines (HAF) |
One presumably well-intentioned RVer posted about how to fly under ocean
fog to get to Half Moon Bay airport, 20 miles of flying under a 600 foot
overcast. Coming less than a month after the Benedicts were killed scud
running, I'd say this gives reason to stop and think about things a bit.
I've had some exposure to the weather conditions of which he speaks, and
have done most of my flying on the other side of the hill, in the San
Francisco bay area, and have been to Half Moon Bay dozens of times, so I
have some knowledge of the area, and the Watsonville area farther south.
That writer is based at Half Moon Bay, and maybe he's familiar with the
places to put down along the coast if the engine quits, maybe he knows
what indicates good visibility underneath the fog, and what indicates
that the ceiling and visibility will stay good. He's presumably thought
out all the rewards and the risks, and what he's willing to put on the
line. But for those who are not based at HAF, and have not paid your
dues, if you fly under the fog, there's a good chance that you'll be
taking an unknown risk. In my book, an unknown risk is a foolish risk.
So what's to look out for?
* Smokin' into a fog bank at RV speeds. It might not be uniformly 600
feet at 10 the whole way. Can you do an IFR 180 in your RV, right now,
with no practice?
* Smokin' into a full traffic pattern at HAF, not having time to see
other planes, and flying the upwind right against the hills outside the
downwind could get real interesting.
* Carb ice in cool, juicy conditions, and let's face it, the "carb heat"
on lots of RVs (like mine) is a joke.
* Maybe you can get in under the goo, but if you try to get out under
it, how do you know there will still be a hole 20 miles away? The safe
bet is to have a SFO TCA chart, and study it before you go home so you
have the option of going over the hill and out over San Francisco bay.
(Be careful, sometimes the Mission Peak area clouds over well ahead of
the rest of the bay). Yes, it will cost you as much as 3 gallons of gas,
so don't whine, go buy it.
Going in over Crystal Springs seems like the best bet, as it's close to
the airport, and you can take a peek before you go under the overcast.
This does put you real close to the hilltop, though, and there's
typically lots of traffic there. The other point is, if the weather
closes in while you're at HAF, it's okay to leave the plane there for as
many days as it takes so you can fly back safely.
'nuff said
Ed Wischmeyer
ATP/CFII
RV-4
--
NOTE: 5% of messages sent to me don't make it, so use a return receipt to
insure delivery. The phone company system drops packets.
- - - - - - - -
Ed Wischmeyer
Web page: http://members.aa.net/~edwisch
Email: edwisch(at)aa.net
name="edwisch.vcf"
filename="edwisch.vcf"
begin:vcard
n:Wischmeyer;Ed
tel;fax:425 898-9566
tel;home:425 898-9856
url:http://members.aa.net/~edwisch
adr:;;18615 NE 53rd Street;Redmond;WA;98052;
version:2.1
email;internet:edwisch(at)aa.net
fn:Ed Wischmeyer
end:vcard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>From: "Paul & Gerti RV-4 F-1 006" <gertivs(at)netzero.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Avgas smell
>Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 22:58:50 -0700
>
>
>
>I have been experimenting with "rolls on a point" with my -4. During the
>roll, the plane has moderate yaw and about -1 g while inverted (although
>for a very short time). Each time I distinctly smell avgas. The plane is
>c/s with 0-360 and carb. An a&p and I have pulled off the cowl, followed
>the fuel lines and found nothing; no obvious leaks, no stains. I am out of
>ideas for possible problem areas except: Could gas actually be coming from
>the carb itself while inverted? If so, is the burp anything to worry
>about?
>Can I can prevent it? Lastly, is it enough to cause a fire?
>
>Paul Vander Schuur
>Modesto, CA
What about the fuel tank vent lines? Maybe some gas is burping out of them
and the fumes are getting blown into the cabin from the slipstream. I'm
convinced the belly structure of these RV's are FAR from being airtight.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
82 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
KSA was hard to use, nonstandard hole on the inst. pannel, had one 15 years ago
and didn't bother using it. All the micro needles(analog) would bounce around
inside a panel that was vibrating...all about 2 feet from my nose...almost
useless. Now the LED, digital ones are another story.......
yohanneskayir(at)netzero.net on 04/27/2000 08:58:55 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: egt & cht
Fellow Listers,
while on the egt & cht thread, does any one have any opinions/experiences
with the KSA (KS Avionics Inc.) Tetra II unit?
Yohann Kayir
Pensacola, FL.
RV4 - finishing kit
engine installation next.
Click here for FREE Internet Access and Email
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Cole" <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dream Machines |
Half Moon Bay, Ca. Just South of San FRancisco (HAF)
Ed Cole
----- Original Message -----
From: Shelby Smith <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2000 6:28 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dream Machines
>
> Where is this?
>
>
> Shelby Smith
> shelbysmith(at)mac.com
>
>
> ----------
> >From: "armstrong" <armstrong(at)coastside.net>
> >To:
> >Subject: RV-List: Dream Machines
> >Date: Thu, Apr 27, 2000, 1:14 AM
> >
>
> >
> > This is one of the coolest shows you will ever see. Everything from
steam
> > engines to jet-powered dragsters. The cars are unbelievable.
> >
> > The weather is supposed to be great. It can get cold here.
> >
> > George Armstrong.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Wills" <willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil> |
>
>Fellow Listers,
>
>while on the egt & cht thread, does any one have any opinions/experiences
>with the KSA (KS Avionics Inc.) Tetra II unit?
>
>Yohann Kayir
>Pensacola, FL.
>RV4 - finishing kit
>engine installation next.
Yohannes,
No first hand info but I attended a forum at one of the west coast
fly-ins last year where this unit was discussed. The forum was given by
Tracy Saylor and Steve Barnard and the topic was performance enhancements
to get the most from your RV. These guys have probably the fastest RV-6 and
6A respectively anywhere. They both use the KSA unit and they both highly
recommended it while discussing how to document performance enhancements to
your engine.
Mike Wills
RV4 engine installation (Mazda 13B)
willsm(at)spawar.navy.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
What about the fuel tank vent lines? Maybe some gas is burping out of them
and the fumes are getting blown into the cabin from the slipstream. I'm
convinced the belly structure of these RV's are FAR from being airtight
The center seam on the RV-4 (bottom skin on center section-under pilot) would
allow a brief whiff if gas if spilled via the vents and blown across the seam.
I
sealed mine with proseal (not with for-knowledge of this .....I think I was
wasting time before dinner and had some un-used-mixed proseal)
akroguy(at)hotmail.com on 04/27/2000 10:41:14 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Avgas smell
>From: "Paul & Gerti RV-4 F-1 006" <gertivs(at)netzero.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Avgas smell
>Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 22:58:50 -0700
>
>
>
>I have been experimenting with "rolls on a point" with my -4. During the
>roll, the plane has moderate yaw and about -1 g while inverted (although
>for a very short time). Each time I distinctly smell avgas. The plane is
>c/s with 0-360 and carb. An a&p and I have pulled off the cowl, followed
>the fuel lines and found nothing; no obvious leaks, no stains. I am out of
>ideas for possible problem areas except: Could gas actually be coming from
>the carb itself while inverted? If so, is the burp anything to worry
>about?
>Can I can prevent it? Lastly, is it enough to cause a fire?
>
>Paul Vander Schuur
>Modesto, CA
What about the fuel tank vent lines? Maybe some gas is burping out of them
and the fumes are getting blown into the cabin from the slipstream. I'm
convinced the belly structure of these RV's are FAR from being airtight.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
82 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Using a Laser Level to Align the Horizontal Stabilizer... |
During my building experience I have had easy access to transits, laser
levels and my own Smart Level. The Smart Level wins out 95% of the time,
followed by transit (used to level fuse jig) and I never found a good use
for the laser level.
The geometry of RV is such that many alignment problems involve positioning
parts which have no well-defined center line or flat surface. If RVs were
boxy things alignment would be easy! Furthermore when the surfaces are flat,
they are seldom in the same plane. The Smart Level allows instant relative
angular measurements as long as you can find a flat surface that is
suitable.
"If your only tool is a hammer, everything looks like a nail" -- I guess my
hammer is my Smart Level.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
; kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Thursday, April 27, 2000 1:05 AM
Subject: RV-List: Using a Laser Level to Align the Horizontal Stabilizer...
>
>
>Hello Listers,
>
Depending on how well and what you adjust to box to in
>terms of "level" you can then align two plains together that are quite
>some distance apart. I set the laser level box up on one of the forward
>fuse. bulkheads, making sure that it was level with respect to the wing
>spar attachments and then adjusted the laser so that it hit the horz.
>stab right down the leading edge. It was then a no-brainer to adjust
>the "levelness" of the stab in relationship to the wing spars using the
>bright red line.
>
>
>Enjoy,
>
>Matt Dralle
>RV-4 #1763, N442RV to be...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lkyswede(at)aol.com |
? Does the Facet pump have a bypass feature?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randyl(at)pacifier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bill & Jeremy Remembered |
> What am I doing wrong?
> When I check on the site, another windows opens and states that it is
> installing components and then stops.
> > www.matronics.com/rv-list
> I am using Internet Explorer.
>
> Anybody getting it to work?
When at either of the two home pages...
www.matronics.com/rv-list
www.edt.com/homewing
... follow these steps:
1. RIGHT-click on the newsletter link.
2. Select the "Save Target As..." option
3. A file save dialog will shortly appear with the file already named in the
lower box. Change the directory to wherever you would like to download the
file to.
4. Click SAVE and it will begin downloading it. Should take maybe 10 minutes
depending on your connection.
5. Once downloaded then go into Windows Explorer and double-click on it to
open it in Adobe Reader.
Note that you will need to have Adobe Acrobat Reader installed, which most
folks do since it's kind universal by now. If you don't have it just go to
www.adobe.com and click on the "Get Acrobat Reader" button and follow the
instructions. Acrobat Reader is free. If you download the newsletter and
double-click on it and your computer is asking what to open it with that
means you do not have Reader installed and need to follow the above steps to
install it.
Randy Lervold
Editor, Home Wing newsletter
RV-8, #80500, not flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
"RV-List: Using a Laser Level to Align the Horizontal Stabilizer..." (Apr
26, 11:52pm)
| Subject: | Re: (More Info on:) Using a Laser Level to Align the Horizontal |
Stabilizer...
I've had quite a few requests for more information on the laser level I
described below. I have the Momentum XL and I picked it up at a local
tool store called "Post Tool". Below are some URLs to a company that
sells a variety of different styles and brands. In most cases the prices
are listed and appear to represent a discount from Mfg's List price.
Momentum
--------
http://www.instrumentsales1.com/cgi-local/SoftCart.exe/online-store/scstore/laser-8.htm?L+scstore+khjg3971+961213490
LaserMark
---------
http://www.instrumentsales1.com/cgi-local/SoftCart.exe/online-store/scstore/laser-12.htm?L+scstore+khjg3971+961213490
Agatec
------
http://www.instrumentsales1.com/cgi-local/SoftCart.exe/online-store/scstore/laser-01.htm?L+scstore+khjg3971+961213490
Spectra-Precision
-----------------
http://www.instrumentsales1.com/cgi-local/SoftCart.exe/online-store/scstore/laser-11.htm?L+scstore+khjg3971+961213490
Matt Dralle
RV-4 #1763, N442RV to be...
>--------------
>
>
>Hello Listers,
>
>I set to work this week mounting my horz stab to the fuse and quickly
>realized that getting a perfect fit might not be that easy. Earlier in
>the week I had been talking to a friend, quite coincidently, about a
>cool thing called a "laser level". For those, like myself, that don't
>know what a laser level is or how it works here's the quick and dirty.
>Basically the unit is a small square box with bubble level in the X, Y
>and Z directions. On the top of the box is a turret of sorts with a
>bright red laser diode. This turret is connected to a small electric
>motor that spins at an adjustable rate from about 10 RPM up to about
>600 RPM. This has the affect of drawing a red line in a 360 circle
>around the box. Depending on how well and what you adjust to box to in
>terms of "level" you can then align two plains together that are quite
>some distance apart. I set the laser level box up on one of the forward
>fuse. bulkheads, making sure that it was level with respect to the wing
>spar attachments and then adjusted the laser so that it hit the horz.
>stab right down the leading edge. It was then a no-brainer to adjust
>the "levelness" of the stab in relationship to the wing spars using the
>bright red line.
>
>Bottom line is that its a pretty expensive little toy, er, I mean
>tool, but I sure wish that I had had one when I was building the tail,
>wing and fuse. jigs! Not to mention verifying the "straightness" of the
>parts I was building in the jigs. Anyway, I've included a few links to
>some pictures I took of the laser level in action. They are a bit
>grainy because I had to get the room pretty dark so that the laser line
>would show up in the photos. In practice, you don't really have to
>work in the dark to use the laser level. :-)
>
> http://www.matronics.com/MattsRV4/MiscPictures/Stab_LaserLevel1.jpg
> http://www.matronics.com/MattsRV4/MiscPictures/Stab_LaserLevel2.jpg
> http://www.matronics.com/MattsRV4/MiscPictures/Stab_LaserLevel3.jpg
> http://www.matronics.com/MattsRV4/MiscPictures/Stab_LaserLevel4.jpg
>
>Enjoy,
>
>Matt Dralle
>RV-4 #1763, N442RV to be...
>
>
>--
>
>Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
>925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
>http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
>--------------
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <rv8abuild(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Panel Tilt & Compass |
Maybe I'm being picky here, but I'm putting in one of those panel-mounted
compasses (I know, I know.... the pedestal mounted one is more accurate and
less prone to interference, but nevertheless..), has anyone considered
correcting for the 8 degree panel tilt by shimming the compass?
Jerry Carter
My RV-8A Web Site:
http://www.rv8asite.homestead.com/mainpage.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6captain(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Tilt up canopy jettison question |
I am in the process of installing my tilt up canopy. I need some info about
weather or not to install the jettison mechanism. I am installing the lift
struts in the sides of the canopy frame so wouldn't this defeat the purpose
of the jettison mechanism by still having the struts attached.
Would appreciate any input I could get.
Thanks,
Eli Lewis
Venice, FL
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tilt up canopy jettison question |
Eli,
I was concerned that the jettison feature would not work, so in the interest
of safety, I extended the rotating shaft to beneath the panel for removal of
the canopy under controlled conditions on the ground for maintenance. My
concern was in part based on the input of several knowledgeable builders who
cited Rev 3 in drawing 51: Dwg changed to reflect 'goose neck hinge'. They
felt the different hinge geometry would preclude jettison capability, the
lift strut problem notwithstanding.
I have had the canopy on and off many times now and I do find it hard to
visualize how, in flight, the canopy would, in the slip stream, come to
position in EXACTLY the right degree of tilt and with the withdrawal wind
force aligned EXACTLY along the required axis for removal. If you can find
a tilt-up near you the builder can demonstrate what I am talking about --
you have to see it to appreciate how the thing comes off.
In this matter I think it would be best to ask Van himself if he really
believes that the canopy in its present form would be jettisonable. I
believe he would give your an honest answer, in spite of liability concerns.
Let us know if you pursue this route.
Dennis Persyk 6A finishing kit
Hampshire, IL C38
-----Original Message-----
From: RV6captain(at)aol.com <RV6captain(at)aol.com>
Date: Thursday, April 27, 2000 12:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: Tilt up canopy jettison question
>
>I am in the process of installing my tilt up canopy. I need some info about
>weather or not to install the jettison mechanism. I am installing the lift
>struts in the sides of the canopy frame so wouldn't this defeat the purpose
>of the jettison mechanism by still having the struts attached.
>Would appreciate any input I could get.
>Thanks,
>Eli Lewis
>Venice, FL
>RV-6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tilt up canopy jettison question |
Use pull-pins as your pivots on the gas shocks & BE SURE TO PLACKARD THE PULL
HANDLE TO REMOVE PINS PRIOR TO YANKING THE RED HANDLE
RV6captain(at)aol.com on 04/27/2000 01:14:16 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Tilt up canopy jettison question
I am in the process of installing my tilt up canopy. I need some info about
weather or not to install the jettison mechanism. I am installing the lift
struts in the sides of the canopy frame so wouldn't this defeat the purpose
of the jettison mechanism by still having the struts attached.
Would appreciate any input I could get.
Thanks,
Eli Lewis
Venice, FL
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com.with.ESMTP (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) |
pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
>
> What about the fuel tank vent lines? Maybe some gas is burping out of them
> and the fumes are getting blown into the cabin from the slipstream. I'm
> convinced the belly structure of these RV's are FAR from being airtight
>
> The center seam on the RV-4 (bottom skin on center section-under pilot) would
> allow a brief whiff if gas if spilled via the vents and blown across the seam.
I
> sealed mine with proseal (not with for-knowledge of this .....I think I was
> wasting time before dinner and had some un-used-mixed proseal)
>
>
> >
> >
> >I have been experimenting with "rolls on a point" with my -4. During the
> >roll, the plane has moderate yaw and about -1 g while inverted (although
> >for a very short time). Each time I distinctly smell avgas. The plane is
> >c/s with 0-360 and carb. An a&p and I have pulled off the cowl, followed
> >the fuel lines and found nothing; no obvious leaks, no stains. I am out of
> >ideas for possible problem areas except: Could gas actually be coming from
> >the carb itself while inverted? If so, is the burp anything to worry
> >about?
> >Can I can prevent it? Lastly, is it enough to cause a fire?
> >
> >
Wayne Handley ("you shameless name dropper!": "biff, bam, socko, slap")
flew my plane to judge its overall performance qualities. When he
pushed some negative g's, he attributed the fuel odor to gas tank
venting with the gas running down the line between the wing and fuselage
and the vapors coming in thru the flap actuator holes.
Can you prevent it? Not the way the RV's are currently designed. You'd
need some kind of a differential pressure relief valve of unknown reliability.
Cause a fire? If you had a performing Wing Walker who smoked during an
outside loop, maybe, but the small amount of gas gets that gets out,
spreads out and evaporates pretty quickly.
Gas in the carb leaking into the carb housing? I would have
to defer to Brian Denk on that one--Sorry, Brian. :-)
Boyd
RV Super6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Instrument Lighting |
Hi,
I am trying to decide whether to use post lights on my instruments, or
spend the extra $$ to have them internally lit. I am referring to the 6
primary flight instruments. Can anyone share their thoughts or
experiences with either of these options please?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Lighting |
Got a great solution for you. Get some light wedges from UMA. They are $39
each, plus the power supply which is $35. They are very light (the power
supply weighs about 2 oz).
You can see them at their website,
http://www.umainstruments.com/
The color is the same that is used on my panel, and the brilliance is
beautiful. Plus you can't beat the price.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn & Judi" <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2000 2:22 PM
Subject: RV-List: Instrument Lighting
>
> Hi,
> I am trying to decide whether to use post lights on my instruments, or
> spend the extra $$ to have them internally lit. I am referring to the 6
> primary flight instruments. Can anyone share their thoughts or
> experiences with either of these options please?
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gummos" <tg1965(at)linkline.com> |
O.K., I have to ask.
> Wayne Handley ("you shameless name dropper!": "biff, bam, socko, slap")
> flew my plane to judge its overall performance qualities.
What did Wayne think of the RV?
Tom Gummo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fran Malczynski" <ebafm(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Brake Line Torque |
I'm installing my brake lines and have a question on the torque values for
the MS24590 fitting on the Strotoflex 111-6 hose going from the rudder brake
cylinders to the firewall. Would the torque values be the same as those for
a flared tubing fitting? ie: 75 - 125 in. lbs. or are they different?
Were washers shipped with the kit to go between the AN833-4D elbow and
firewall?
Any problem teflon taping the threads on the fittings that go into the brake
cylinders?
Thanks
Fran Malczynski
RV6 (finish kit, engine shipped this week)
Olcott, NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Hall" <robjhall(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Lighting |
>
> Hi,
> I am trying to decide whether to use post lights on my instruments, or
> spend the extra $$ to have them internally lit. I am referring to the 6
> primary flight instruments. Can anyone share their thoughts or
> experiences with either of these options please?
If you have a sliding canopy, another option you might consider is to use
two eyeball lights, one on either side of the cockpit located at the forward
base of the windscreen roll bar. If used alone, the left hand light will
illuminate the primary flight instruments but leaves a shadow on the left
side of the instruments. I flew my RV-6 at night for the first time last
week with this setup and it worked fine. No reflections in the windscreen
at all.
The price was right at $25 for both lights from Van's and a little fiddling
to fabricate a mounting bracket.
Bob Hall
RV-6, Colorado Springs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Lighting |
>From: Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Instrument Lighting
>Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2000 16:22:23 -0500
>
>
>Hi,
>I am trying to decide whether to use post lights on my instruments, or
>spend the extra $$ to have them internally lit. I am referring to the 6
>primary flight instruments. Can anyone share their thoughts or
>experiences with either of these options please?
>
>Thanks,
>Glenn Gordon
None of the above. Flood the panel with two of Van's swivel map lights
hooked up to a dimmer. Doesn't cost very much and lights up the entire panel
on the -8. Just my budget-minded totally not humble opinion. ;)
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
84 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Lighting |
Subject: RV-List: Instrument Lighting
>
> Hi,
> I am trying to decide whether to use post lights on my instruments, or
> spend the extra $$ to have them internally lit. I am referring to the 6
> primary flight instruments. Can anyone share their thoughts or
> experiences with either of these options please?
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn Gordon
Glenn,
Another alternative to Posts or Internal are Bezel lights which you
place between the face of your instrument and the panel. There are several
types some are filiment lit and some have a luminicent ring that lights the
instrument evenly. I used them on my panel and they have worked well. Cost
much less than half the price for internal lights. For more info try this
URL
http://home.rica.net/uma/
Look under accessories near end of index for UMA EL Bezels
Ed Anderson
Matthews NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Lighting |
In a message dated 4/27/00 3:10:56 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net writes:
<< I am trying to decide whether to use post lights on my instruments, or
spend the extra $$ to have them internally lit. I am referring to the 6
primary flight instruments. Can anyone share their thoughts or
experiences with either of these options please? >>
I think the internally lighted are too expensive so I went with the post
lights. I placed six of them each centered 1/2" above the top three and 1/2"
below the bottom three flight instruments. I don't like using them on the
instrument corner mounting holes as you can get annoying reflections off the
instrument glass under certain conditions.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <rv8er(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Lighting |
Got a great solution for you. Get some light wedges from UMA. They are
$39
each, plus the power supply which is $35. They are very light (the power
supply weighs about 2 oz).
You can see them at their website,
http://www.umainstruments.com/
The color is the same that is used on my panel, and the brilliance is
beautiful. Plus you can't beat the price.
Paul Besing
RV-6A (197AB) Arizona
http://members.home.net/rv8er
Finish Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pacific Coast Dream Machines (HAF) |
Ed
Great post. I live in the Bay Area and have been into
Half Moon Bay more that a hundred times ( honest)
and I had to cringe at the well intentioned advice on
how to scud run into HAF. Believe me it can close down
In flash, please be careful. BTW, looks like the weather
is going to be solid VFR and lots of sun, Have fun
Tom McIntyre
RV3 978TM
Northern California
Ed Wischmeyer wrote:
>
> One presumably well-intentioned RVer posted about how to fly under ocean
> fog to get to Half Moon Bay airport, 20 miles of flying under a 600 foot
> overcast. Coming less than a month after the Benedicts were killed scud
> running, I'd say this gives reason to stop and think about things a bit.
>
> I've had some exposure to the weather conditions of which he speaks, and
> have done most of my flying on the other side of the hill, in the San
> Francisco bay area, and have been to Half Moon Bay dozens of times, so I
> have some knowledge of the area, and the Watsonville area farther south.
>
> That writer is based at Half Moon Bay, and maybe he's familiar with the
> places to put down along the coast if the engine quits, maybe he knows
> what indicates good visibility underneath the fog, and what indicates
> that the ceiling and visibility will stay good. He's presumably thought
> out all the rewards and the risks, and what he's willing to put on the
> line. But for those who are not based at HAF, and have not paid your
> dues, if you fly under the fog, there's a good chance that you'll be
> taking an unknown risk. In my book, an unknown risk is a foolish risk.
>
> So what's to look out for?
> * Smokin' into a fog bank at RV speeds. It might not be uniformly 600
> feet at 10 the whole way. Can you do an IFR 180 in your RV, right now,
> with no practice?
> * Smokin' into a full traffic pattern at HAF, not having time to see
> other planes, and flying the upwind right against the hills outside the
> downwind could get real interesting.
> * Carb ice in cool, juicy conditions, and let's face it, the "carb heat"
> on lots of RVs (like mine) is a joke.
> * Maybe you can get in under the goo, but if you try to get out under
> it, how do you know there will still be a hole 20 miles away? The safe
> bet is to have a SFO TCA chart, and study it before you go home so you
> have the option of going over the hill and out over San Francisco bay.
> (Be careful, sometimes the Mission Peak area clouds over well ahead of
> the rest of the bay). Yes, it will cost you as much as 3 gallons of gas,
> so don't whine, go buy it.
>
> Going in over Crystal Springs seems like the best bet, as it's close to
> the airport, and you can take a peek before you go under the overcast.
> This does put you real close to the hilltop, though, and there's
> typically lots of traffic there. The other point is, if the weather
> closes in while you're at HAF, it's okay to leave the plane there for as
> many days as it takes so you can fly back safely.
>
> 'nuff said
>
> Ed Wischmeyer
> ATP/CFII
> RV-4
>
> --
>
> NOTE: 5% of messages sent to me don't make it, so use a return receipt to
> insure delivery. The phone company system drops packets.
>
> - - - - - - - -
>
> Ed Wischmeyer
> Web page: http://members.aa.net/~edwisch
> Email: edwisch(at)aa.net
> name="edwisch.vcf"
> filename="edwisch.vcf"
>
> begin:vcard
> n:Wischmeyer;Ed
> tel;fax:425 898-9566
> tel;home:425 898-9856
> url:http://members.aa.net/~edwisch
> adr:;;18615 NE 53rd Street;Redmond;WA;98052;
> version:2.1
> email;internet:edwisch(at)aa.net
> fn:Ed Wischmeyer
> end:vcard
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Using a Laser Level to Align the Horizontal Stabilizer... |
Cool pics Matt. Now, question to the listeners, could one just tape a laser
pointer to a level and come up with a similar device? I am just starting
my -6A fuselage so I have no idea what fun I'm in for yet.
Marty in Brentwood TN
----- Original Message -----
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2000 1:01 AM
Subject: RV-List: Using a Laser Level to Align the Horizontal Stabilizer...
>
>
> Hello Listers,
>
> I set to work this week mounting my horz stab to the fuse and quickly
> realized that getting a perfect fit might not be that easy. Earlier in
> the week I had been talking to a friend, quite coincidently, about a
> cool thing called a "laser level". For those, like myself, that don't
> know what a laser level is or how it works here's the quick and dirty.
> Basically the unit is a small square box with bubble level in the X, Y
> and Z directions. On the top of the box is a turret of sorts with a
> bright red laser diode. This turret is connected to a small electric
> motor that spins at an adjustable rate from about 10 RPM up to about
> 600 RPM. This has the affect of drawing a red line in a 360 circle
> around the box. Depending on how well and what you adjust to box to in
> terms of "level" you can then align two plains together that are quite
> some distance apart. I set the laser level box up on one of the forward
> fuse. bulkheads, making sure that it was level with respect to the wing
> spar attachments and then adjusted the laser so that it hit the horz.
> stab right down the leading edge. It was then a no-brainer to adjust
> the "levelness" of the stab in relationship to the wing spars using the
> bright red line.
>
> Bottom line is that its a pretty expensive little toy, er, I mean
> tool, but I sure wish that I had had one when I was building the tail,
> wing and fuse. jigs! Not to mention verifying the "straightness" of the
> parts I was building in the jigs. Anyway, I've included a few links to
> some pictures I took of the laser level in action. They are a bit
> grainy because I had to get the room pretty dark so that the laser line
> would show up in the photos. In practice, you don't really have to
> work in the dark to use the laser level. :-)
>
> http://www.matronics.com/MattsRV4/MiscPictures/Stab_LaserLevel1.jpg
> http://www.matronics.com/MattsRV4/MiscPictures/Stab_LaserLevel2.jpg
> http://www.matronics.com/MattsRV4/MiscPictures/Stab_LaserLevel3.jpg
> http://www.matronics.com/MattsRV4/MiscPictures/Stab_LaserLevel4.jpg
>
> Enjoy,
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-4 #1763, N442RV to be...
>
>
> --
>
> Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Can someone help with the wiring output from an ACK-30 encoder to an
Narco-AT50A Transponder.
Thanks in Advance: Harvey Sigmon RV-6AQB Wiring DNA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Lighting |
glenn
i bought a couple primary instruments with internal lights, attitude gyro and
directional gyro, i also installed the incandesent light rings ( made by ups
) on all my other flight instruments . it was much cheaper 33 dollars per
light ring compaired to 150 dollars to internally light the instrument. all
my engine instruments from vans are lighted and inexpensive and appear to be
good quality.
my recommendation if you go with the light rings, get the blue light, the red
is eye soaring and the green floods out the color scale on the airspeed
indicator.
well thats my 2 cents, i'm happy with my set up.
hope this helps and good luck
scott
tampa
6a tippsy
millions of finishing items
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Lighting |
>
>
>If you have a sliding canopy, another option you might consider is to use
>two eyeball lights, one on either side of the cockpit located at the
forward
>base of the windscreen roll bar. If used alone, the left hand light will
>illuminate the primary flight instruments but leaves a shadow on the left
>side of the instruments. I flew my RV-6 at night for the first time last
>week with this setup and it worked fine. No reflections in the windscreen
>at all.
>
>The price was right at $25 for both lights from Van's and a little fiddling
>to fabricate a mounting bracket.
>
I am using the same system on my tip-up, mounted on the side rails, and find
it is satisfactory. Since the radios, RMI Microencoder, GPS and VM-1000 are
all internally lit, I use the left light for the gyros and AS and the right
light for the switches.
Sometimes people bump the light while getting in or out but they are easily
adjusted back into position.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Oliveira <Oliveira(at)eznet.net> |
As a new RV builder (RV9a) I had subscribed to RV Source Earlier in the
year.
When I signed on today, I got a message that says the site is being
closed, as it was Jeremy Benedict's business.
They offered you some choices for what to do with your subscription
money.
1. Get it back
2. I elect to donate my subscription fee to the Jeremy Benedict's
memorial scholarship
fund established at his alma mater, the University of
Portland.
I for one immediately chose option 2, and it is in the mail. I
encourage all of us to do the same. I don't know how successful that
business had been, but I thought it would be useful as a source of all
the old RV newsletters and other good stuff. I certainly won't miss the
money and it is a painless way to contribute.
John Oliveira
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rvator97(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Using a Laser Level to Align the Horizontal Stabilizer... |
OR......... you could simply follow Van's instructions and mount the
sucker...
It'll fly great! :) (You're NOT building the Space Shuttle!)
Walt 6A 300 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
Hi,
I found a lot of info in the archives on this topic, but not this exact
question.
How long does it take for a non-cageable gyro to recover from a basic
loop or roll?
Thanks,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MTMCGOWAN(at)aol.com |
I also had subscribed to source-rv and of course i want my subsc. money
to go to the memorial,----------but wouldn't it be wonderful if instead of
ending Jeremys fine effort, it could be finished and maintained. All of us
would benefit from it and what a great tribute to his idea. Is it possible
for us [as a group] each contributing a small amount of time and effort to
do such a thing? any comments???? Mike McGowan RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
> 2. I elect to donate my subscription fee to the Jeremy Benedict's
> memorial scholarship
> fund established at his alma mater, the University of
> Portland.
>
> I for one immediately chose option 2, and it is in the mail. I
> encourage all of us to do the same. I don't know how successful that
> business had been, but I thought it would be useful as a source of all
> the old RV newsletters and other good stuff. I certainly won't miss the
> money and it is a painless way to contribute.
>
>
> John Oliveira
John:
Jeremy told me he had around 700 customers. Wouldn't that be a nice tribute
if everyone elected to donate their subscription.
Doug Weiler
MN Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Hobenshield <edhob(at)kermode.net> |
>
>on 4/25/00 20:30, BPattonsoa(at)aol.com at BPattonsoa(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>>
>> Wierd, I just walked in from starting my first annual, and was heading
>>to the
>> archive to look up tire wear. Exactly the same, worn on the outside, both
>> sides identical. You could place a straight edge on the tire it is worn so
>> flat, from the first bead to the second or third. Only 96 landings in the
>> 140 hours. Original Vans tires, RV-6A, around 1150 lbs empty. About 10-15
>> landings were on grass or dirt. All (except one to be long remembered)
>>were
>> smooth, wheel, no bounce.
>>
>> I plan to reverse the tires, inside looks almost new. Still am going to the
>> archive.
>>
>> Bruce Patton
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>Have done a lot of interviews and fact straining on this subject with many
>variables. IMHO, you are right on the norm; however It is unusual that you
>are counting landings. It is a very good sign that you are wearing same on
>both sides and that the outside is going first. Mine is a 180 HP 6A which
>weighs a little over 1100 lbs. I got 250 landings on the original tires,
>reversed at about 125 landings. I replaced with Condors, and got 450
>landings (they have about twice as much tread). I am on the third set and
>am trying for 500. I just rotated at 250 landings. All my ops are on paved
>surface; however I strive to be very gentle with my undercarriage and its
>shoes.
>
>The good news is the nose tire lasts forever. I changed mine out at 900 but
>it still had a bit of tread left.
> --
>Denis L.(Bum) Walsh
>
>
Ed Hobenshield edhob(at)kermode.net
Kitwanga, BC, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Hobenshield <edhob(at)kermode.net> |
>-->
>>
>Have done a lot of interviews and fact straining on this subject with many
>variables. IMHO, you are right on the norm; however It is unusual that you
>are counting landings. It is a very good sign that you are wearing same on
>both sides and that the outside is going first. Mine is a 180 HP 6A which
>weighs a little over 1100 lbs. I got 250 landings on the original tires,
>reversed at about 125 landings. I replaced with Condors, and got 450
>landings (they have about twice as much tread). I am on the third set and
>am trying for 500. I just rotated at 250 landings. All my ops are on paved
>surface; however I strive to be very gentle with my undercarriage and its
>shoes.
>
>The good news is the nose tire lasts forever. I changed mine out at 900 but
>it still had a bit of tread left.
> --
Man,
What s going on? 250 landings and the tires wore out? I have 250+ landings
on my 6a and have very little wear. However, it lookes like the Condors are
a great tire and would be a great tire for replacement.
I am still amazed that the origional tires are getting such poor life.
Perhaps the 1000 ft grass runway helps as less taxi time and only using the
500 max take-off and landing?
Ed.
Ed Hobenshield edhob(at)kermode.net
Kitwanga, BC, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: acro & gyros |
>From: Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv list
>Subject: RV-List: acro & gyros
>Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2000 21:06:42 -0500
>
>
>Hi,
>
>I found a lot of info in the archives on this topic, but not this exact
>question.
>How long does it take for a non-cageable gyro to recover from a basic
>loop or roll?
>
>Thanks,
>Glenn Gordon
My AI gets pretty scrambled after a loop but comes back online within about
two minutes. A roll doesn't seem to disturb it at all, but I'm sure it won't
put up with it indefinitely. The DG tumbles during a steep turn but rides
out a full roll pretty well. Maybe it's just the fast rate of heading
change and G loading during a steep turn (like around 60 degrees bank or
more) that upsets it. A loop doesn't disturb it.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
wishing I had made that quick disconnect tray for the gyros
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pacific Coast Dream Machines (HAF) |
--- Thomas McIntyre
wrote:
>
>
> Ed
> Great post. I live in the Bay Area and have been
> into
> Half Moon Bay more that a hundred times ( honest)
> and I had to cringe at the well intentioned advice
> on
> how to scud run into HAF. Believe me it can close
> down
> In flash, please be careful. BTW, looks like the
> weather
> is going to be solid VFR and lots of sun, Have fun
> Tom McIntyre
> RV3 978TM
> Northern California
I am just getting home from a business trip from
Sunnyvale. Flew commercial and not RV. It was
beautiful this morning and the clouds moved in in the
afternoon. I know it can change fast.
Tuesday night, I went to pick up my RV-6. I was out
visiting over the long three day weekend. Friday I
was at Q99, RHV, LVK, TCY, RIU, CA20. Spent the night
at CA20 (Eagle's Nest, Private). "My Sanity" spent
the night in the hangar with "Dreadnought". Saturday
was CA20, RIU (for gas), WJF. Had low clouds and rain
in the Ione - Jackson area with 3 to 4 mile visibility
outside the rain. I almost turned back. If
visibility would have dropped any more, it was 180
time. Cleared up south of Modesto. Went to 11,500
over Kern Valley to stay clear of the clouds and
mountain tops. Helped Paul Rosales with the baffling
on his RV-6A. He should be flying by late May or
early June.
Sunday afternoon, Paul took me back to the airport and
I preflighted. Wind sounded ok on ATIS but felt to
strong. Called ground to ask about wind. Left the
airplane tied down. Later at 1700 local, tower
reported wind 260 at 28 knots gusting to 36 knots.
Paul drove me home. This is the second time in 2.5
years and 538 flying hours that I have left the
aircraft out and went home without it. I know I will
leave it somewhere again as I am a big "CHICKEN". I
would rather use my superior judgment skills to avoid
situations where I would be required to use may
superior pilot skills.
Weather predicted for WJF on Tuesday 1500 - 2200 local
was 280 at 10 gusting to 20. "Mother Goose" flew me
there in her 210. Nice smooth flight. Got there and
wind was 280 at 21 gusting 23. Preflighted and
departed on runway 24 for home. I did take-off across
the runway into the wind. Caught "Mother Goose" about
4 miles out and flew as a flight the rest of the way
home. Thirty minute flight time.
As of Tuesday night, there were 7 (seven) RVs from
SoCAL Wing Van's Air Force that were confirmed on
going to HAF. One of the coPilots works as a captain
for Alaska and learned to fly at HAF. I also believe
that Walt Hastings use to live in the bay area. Not
all the ships have a lot of formation experience so
they will be following. Roger or Walt may be leading
the flight on the final leg to HAF. If the pattern
(and weather) permits, (no traffic) we will arrive in
Left Echelon for the "Overhead" with a right break.
If I am leading us in, I will not hesitate to turn
around. My standards for flight operations as flight
lead are very high and I will not put the flight in
any danger. It takes more space to turn around a
flight than it does a single aircraft. I also like to
slow to 135 KIAS when dropping below 3,500 AGL. At RV
speeds, the factory airplanes can be overtaken very
quickly. If I am wing and I do not like the weather,
I will let lead know that I am dropping out of the
flight.
My plans are to weather brief Saturday night and again
Sunday morning. Will include Satellite images. If
weather is not VFR with 2,000+ ceiling at SNS, we will
divert inland and wait. Will have enough fuel to make
FAT if necessary. Will not take off unless there is a
very high chance that the trip can be completed
SAFELY.
Forecast for the trip home at 1500 or 1600 local time
must be for VFR the entire route.
http://www.duats.com/
Forecast looks good:
http://www.weather.com/weather/36hr/us_ca_half_moon_bay.html
Satellite will be check before departure:
http://www.awc-kc.noaa.gov/awc/goes9w.html
Have a job waiting for me in Sunnyvale if I want it.
Still need to find a hangar to share for my RV-6 or I
do not take the job. Would prefer LVK.
Sorry for the long post.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
Flying So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Lighting |
In a message dated 4/27/00 4:40:41 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
robjhall(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< If you have a sliding canopy, another option you might consider is to use
two eyeball lights, one on either side of the cockpit located at the forward
base of the windscreen roll bar. If used alone, the left hand light will
illuminate the primary flight instruments but leaves a shadow on the left
side of the instruments. I flew my RV-6 at night for the first time last
week with this setup and it worked fine. No reflections in the windscreen
at all.
The price was right at $25 for both lights from Van's and a little fiddling
to fabricate a mounting bracket. >>
If you modify the round base by sanding to a double 'd' shape (two flats
opposite one another) and drill an additional hole opposite the one remaining
you can mount them in the canopy deck pieces about 6-8" aft of the roll bar
on the 6/6A slider. This provides a much better spread and you can place a
mini rocker switch right next to each to energize. It is preferable to paint
the bulb with a transparent colored (red or blue depending on the balance of
your lamps) paint to attenuate their brilliance somewhat if not connected to
a dimmer circuit.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
john
i for one hate to see the RV source web site just disappear, Jeremy worked
to hard on that web site. there are a lot of computer talented rvers on this
list that should pick up the ball and run with it, hint hint Sam b. its not
a matter of the 20 bucks, Jeremy was on to something grand, we should not let
it go. i wouldn't know where to start, but to ask any on the list who has the
talent and the time to fully carry out Jeremy's dream and finish the website,
whatcha think guys
look at what Jeremy gave us, vans website, the best on the Internet.
just my thoughts
Scott
Tampa
6a tipsy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fesenbek, Gary" <Gary.Fesenbek(at)marykay.com> |
| Subject: | Pacific Coast Dream Machines (HAF) |
One presumably well-intentioned RVer posted about how to fly under ocean
fog to get to Half Moon Bay airport, 20 miles of flying under a 600 foot
overcast. Coming less than a month after the Benedicts were killed scud
running, I'd say this gives reason to stop and think about things a bit.
Well put Ed. You know I had to bite my lip pretty hard not to say something
when that was posted especially coming so close to Bill's accident. But, as
Popeye would say "I can't stands it anymore!"
Partially I wonder if we should ethically say anything about crazy things
like scud running because we may be getting in the way of evolution.
One thing you left out of your check list was to check for 500' radio towers
though.
April 22, 2000 - April 28, 2000
RV-Archive.digest.vol-ij