Stratus-List Archive Browser

>> >> >> >> > > ======================== =========== ======================== =========== ======================== =========== ======================== =========== ____________________________________________________________ Save $15 on Flowers and Gifts from FTD! Shop now at http://offers.juno.com/TGL1141/?u=http://www.ftd.com/17007 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 2009
From: Don Walker <d3dw(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: reduction belts
MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="0-107949012-1234976350=:30515" --0-107949012-1234976350=:30515 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable How long are you using your redrive belts? I am putting my third Jason belt on and the second still looks great. In fact the first one, ten years old still looks very good...no cracks or significant wear.=0AI bought the new o ne today from Motion industries...$60.74 + tax and shipping.=0A=0AAlso, are any of you using the 1080 HD (the heavy duty) shock cords on your Super Zo diac with the heavier Soob engines? I am going to change mine after ten yea rs now, mostly because they are sagging about 3/4 "... and thinking of usin g the 1080HD instead of the 1080.=0A-- thanks for your feedback.-- ============ --0-107949012-1234976350=:30515 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
How long are you using your redrive belts? I am putting my third Jason belt on and the second still looks great. In fact the first one, ten years old still looks very good...no cracks or significant wear.

I bought the new one today from Motion industries...$60.74 + tax and shipping.

Also, are any of you using the 1080 HD (the heavy duty) shock cords on your Super Zodiac with the heavier Soob engines? I am going to change mine after ten years now, mostly because they are sagging about 3/4 "... and thinking of using the 1080HD instead of the 1080.

thanks for your feedback. Don Walker.

:

--0-107949012-1234976350=:30515-- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 2009
From: LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Subject: Re: reduction belts
Hi Don, My belts get changed out between 300-400 hours or 5 years, which ever comes first. The belts don't appear to wear out at that time because the shop industries use these up to 1200 hours or more before contemplating change. I did put 1080 HD bungees on when I painted and reassembled the bird. Have about a 1/4-inch clearance on the top strut plate on mains and none on the nose. Full fuel and it changes to 3/8-inch and 1/4-inch on the nose. Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com Don Walker wrote: > > MIME-Version: 1.0 > Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="0-107949012-1234976350=:30515" > > --0-107949012-1234976350=:30515 > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > How long are you using your redrive belts? I am putting my third Jason belt > on and the second still looks great. In fact the first one, ten years old > still looks very good...no cracks or significant wear.=0AI bought the new o > ne today from Motion industries...$60.74 + tax and shipping.=0A=0AAlso, are > any of you using the 1080 HD (the heavy duty) shock cords on your Super Zo > diac with the heavier Soob engines? I am going to change mine after ten yea > rs now, mostly because they are sagging about 3/4 "... and thinking of usin > g the 1080HD instead of the 1080.=0A-- thanks for your feedback.-- > ============ > --0-107949012-1234976350=:30515 > Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii >

--0-107949012-1234976350=:30515-- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 2009
From: LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Subject: Re: reduction belts
I can see where a loose belt would be easily stripped of its teeth. I always feel for the 1/4-inch deflection at 20-lbs before flying. Don't think a belt being tighter would be wise either. The Stratus redrive is a really good system for getting it all right though. Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com Bryan Martin wrote: > > > My first drive belt failed at 240 hours and I had to make a forced > landing, all the teeth striped off of it. Luckily, I was near an > airport and was able to put it down on a runway. My belt looked fine > too just before it failed. I wouldn't recommend exceeding the 300 hour > replacement time suggested by Stratus. > > My belt may have been a bit too loose and I did have a prop strike > early in my test phase. These factors may account for the short time > on my belt. > > On Feb 18, 2009, at 11:59 AM, Don Walker wrote: > >> >> How long are you using your redrive belts? I am putting my third >> Jason belt >> on and the second still looks great. In fact the first one, ten years >> old >> still looks very good...no cracks or significant wear. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 28, 2009
From: LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Subject: Is the Subaru falling behind these days?
Hi guys, The Subaru engine is still a healthy market, albeit a small one. Several of the marketers of FWF Subaru fell off the shelf because they promised more than they deliver and a few were just too proud of their product, i.e., pricing. When a good Stratus only costs $7000.00 and a few of its competition were asking three fourths of the price of an aircraft engine, the higher priced ones fell out of favor. There are still two good Subaru packages out there and they are Stratus and Ram Performance. There were issues that none of the providers seemed interested in addressing. One was cooling and the other was fuel mixture. Both of these are poorly understood by the average 601 builder. Marketing always seemed to be best provided by the guys that oversold product or tried to do too much with what they had. When the Subaru is modified too much to accomplish it's task, it becomes a one of a kind engine that can only be serviced or repaired by the seller's. This has happened to the Eggenfeller and several others that have introduced such complex components and modifications that few standard parts remain and the economy is lost. Those of us that fly the Subaru EA-81 enjoy great economy, simple repairs and a sweet efficiency of using auto fuel or 100LL. The sound is unique and smooth and the starts are immediate, even in cold weather. Most of the EA-81s will easily go to 2000 hours at the usual 4600 rpm and still show no wear on the cylinders. Yes, the Stratus and the Ram Performance engines need better marketing for the engines. On the down side, the Stratus EA-81 is a few pounds heavier for its 105 hp and the buyer does need to know a bit more about ignition systems, cooling and fuel mixtures to succeed, but it remains a great little engine that's really simple to work on and fly. Would I do it again if there were do-overs? Absolutely, in a heartbeat. I get calls quite frequently about the Subaru and believe their use is mostly understated. Most of them have gone on gyro copters because of their brute power and bullet proof performance while reliably keeping a less efficient machine aloft. At least I don't have to get AD's every week with some nit picky detail that just has to be done to keep the engine from turning into a hand grenade. Fly safe guys, Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com With all the madness about Corvair engines these days it seems the Subaru engine has left the field. Is this just a passing fad, or did the Subie have some less than desirable quality that the Corvair engine lacks? Perhaps it's down to a talented promoter. Is nobody selecting the Subaru any longer? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Trey Moran" <nail13zg(at)centurytel.net>
Subject: EA81 Alternator
Date: Apr 29, 2009
Help! I am having no luck identifying the automotive source of the alternator used on the early Stratus EA81, prior to Mykal Templeman's purchase of the company in 2000. These older alternators have a rectangular two-wire plug connector, rather than the round three-wire connector on later models of the engine. Trey Moran Kitfox Model 5 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 29, 2009
From: Don Walker <d3dw(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: EA81 Alternator
Mine is a Powerbuilt (remanufactured) # 14967. I also have one listed as Su zuki 50amp. Pacific203-279, but that is not what is on my engine. Reinher b uilt mine in 1998.- don walker=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A____________________________ ____=0AFrom: Trey Moran <nail13zg(at)centurytel.net>=0ATo: stratus-list@matron ics.com=0ASent: Wednesday, April 29, 2009 10:52:24 AM=0ASubject: Stratus-Li st: EA81 Alternator=0A=0A=0AHelp! I am having no luck identifying the autom otive source of the alternator used on the early Stratus EA81, prior to Myk al Templeman's purchase of the company in 2000.-- These older alternato rs have a rectangular two-wire plug connector, rather than the round three- wire connector on later models of the engine.=0A-=0ATrey Moran=0AKitfox M ==================== ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 02, 2009
Subject: HELP
From: Don Hudgeon <don(at)hudgeon.com>
Is there anyone out there who would be willing to take me on a check ride. I am in the final stages of purchasing an AVID MK4 HH with extended wings and fuselage, Stratus EA81 power. The problem is the plane is owned by a student pilot and I am a very rusty Canadian PPL. Neither one of us is either authorized or competant enough to do a proper check ride and evaluate the flying ability of the aircraft. The aircraft is located about 1 hour north of Spokane WA. Of course I would compensate the person who would be willing to do this. The aircraft appears in good condition with about 170 hours total time. If interested, or know of anyone who may be kindly contact me at don(at)hudgeon.com. Cheers Don ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 21, 2009
From: LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Subject: A bloody safety note for annual inspection
Hi Guys, I nearly qualified for the Darwin award today while removing my propeller. Id put wrenches on both ends of the prop bolts and had my head in the path of the propeller struggling with the torqued nuts on the back face. As each nut was loosened, the prop rotated backward a few degrees toward me. On the 5^th bolt, I was so focused that I pulled on the wrench with my chin tucked in and the prop, only two feet away, moved a few more degrees and the compression released to spin the rear edge of the prop onto the side of my skull. The force made a 5-inch mark on the side of my head and the centerfold in my ear was cut clear through. Wrenches and I hit the floor and then I walked from the hangar bleeding pretty good. An airport employee saw my bloody towel in hand and called the airport emergency team and soon medics in fire trucks arrived to offer assistance. It could have been worse, but my mistake was not removing the spark plugs before removing prop bolts. No ignition was involved, but with a re-drive reduction of 2 to1, the force released was a surprise and could well have been deadly. I signed a refusal of medical care as my ear had quit bleeding and was very appreciative of their arriving so quickly. They say confession is good for the soul and that its never too late to learn something, Larry McFarland 601HDS Stratus Subaru at www.macsmachine.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 21, 2009
From: gary <gkrysztopik(at)satx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: A bloody safety note for annual inspection
Thanks for coming clean with us Larry. I've done that a bunch of times without removing the plugs and never got any kind of kickback. Now I know to be more careful! Gary Krysztopik www.ZWheelz.com www.aceaa.org http://voices.mysanantonio.com/drive_electric_san_antonio/ San Antonio, TX LarryMcFarland wrote: > > > Hi Guys, > I nearly qualified for the Darwin award today while removing my > propeller. Id put wrenches on both ends of the prop bolts and had my > head in the path of the propeller struggling with the torqued nuts on > the back face. As each nut was loosened, the prop rotated backward a > few degrees toward me. On the 5^th bolt, I was so focused that I > pulled on the wrench with my chin tucked in and the prop, only two > feet away, moved a few more degrees and the compression released to > spin the rear edge of the prop onto the side of my skull. The force > made a 5-inch mark on the side of my head and the centerfold in my ear > was cut clear through. > > Wrenches and I hit the floor and then I walked from the hangar > bleeding pretty good. An airport employee saw my bloody towel in hand > and called the airport emergency team and soon medics in fire trucks > arrived to offer assistance. It could have been worse, but my mistake > was not removing the spark plugs before removing prop bolts. No > ignition was involved, but with a re-drive reduction of 2 to1, the > force released was a surprise and could well have been deadly. > > I signed a refusal of medical care as my ear had quit bleeding and was > very appreciative of their arriving so quickly. > > They say confession is good for the soul and that its never too late > to learn something, > > > Larry McFarland 601HDS Stratus Subaru at www.macsmachine.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com>
Date: Sep 22, 2009
Subject: A bloody safety note for annual inspection
Hope you get well soon Larry...Now you know why big Lyc drivers get very nervous when doing leakdown tests..:) Frank -----Original Message----- From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of LarryMcFarland Sent: Monday, September 21, 2009 4:53 PM Subject: Stratus-List: A bloody safety note for annual inspection --> Hi Guys, I nearly qualified for the Darwin award today while removing my propeller. I'd put wrenches on both ends of the prop bolts and had my head in the path of the propeller struggling with the torqued nuts on the back face. As each nut was loosened, the prop rotated backward a few degrees toward me. On the 5^th bolt, I was so focused that I pulled on the wrench with my chin tucked in and the prop, only two feet away, moved a few more degrees and the compression released to spin the rear edge of the prop onto the side of my skull. The force made a 5-inch mark on the side of my head and the centerfold in my ear was cut clear through. Wrenches and I hit the floor and then I walked from the hangar bleeding pretty good. An airport employee saw my bloody towel in hand and called the airport emergency team and soon medics in fire trucks arrived to offer assistance. It could have been worse, but my mistake was not removing the spark plugs before removing prop bolts. No ignition was involved, but with a re-drive reduction of 2 to1, the force released was a surprise and could well have been deadly. I signed a refusal of medical care as my ear had quit bleeding and was very appreciative of their arriving so quickly. They say confession is good for the soul and that it's never too late to learn something, Larry McFarland 601HDS Stratus Subaru at www.macsmachine.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jerry Pilon <pilongt(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: A bloody safety note for annual inspection
Date: Sep 23, 2009
I'll keep that in mind=2C I am about to remove my prop and work on bearings and replace my reduction belt. Thanks for the "heads up" Larry Jerry Pilon Washington=2C Illinois > Date: Mon=2C 21 Sep 2009 18:53:06 -0500 > From: larry(at)macsmachine.com > To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com=3B zenith601-list(at)matronics.com=3B stratus- list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Stratus-List: A bloody safety note for annual inspection > > > > Hi Guys=2C > I nearly qualified for the Darwin award today while removing my > propeller. I=92d put wrenches on both ends of the prop bolts and had my > head in the path of the propeller struggling with the torqued nuts on > the back face. As each nut was loosened=2C the prop rotated backward a fe w > degrees toward me. On the 5^th bolt=2C I was so focused that I pulled on > the wrench with my chin tucked in and the prop=2C only two feet away=2C > moved a few more degrees and the compression released to spin the rear > edge of the prop onto the side of my skull. The force made a 5-inch mark > on the side of my head and the centerfold in my ear was cut clear through . > > Wrenches and I hit the floor and then I walked from the hangar bleeding > pretty good. An airport employee saw my bloody towel in hand and called > the airport emergency team and soon medics in fire trucks arrived to > offer assistance. It could have been worse=2C but my mistake was not > removing the spark plugs before removing prop bolts. No ignition was > involved=2C but with a re-drive reduction of 2 to1=2C the force released was > a surprise and could well have been deadly. > > I signed a refusal of medical care as my ear had quit bleeding and was > very appreciative of their arriving so quickly. > > They say confession is good for the soul and that it=92s never too late t o > learn something=2C > > > Larry McFarland 601HDS Stratus Subaru at www.macsmachine.com > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > =0A _________________________________________________________________=0A Hotmail=AE has ever-growing storage! Don=92t worry about storage limits.=0A http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Storage?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tuto rial_Storage_062009 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: WANTED Subaru EA81 Intake Manifold (Bing Carb Setup)
From: "special4" <sportsflyer(at)COMCAST.NET>
Date: Sep 28, 2009
I am rebuilding a Subaru EA81 and need a lightweight intake manifold. Stratus style) Any sources...?? Thanks Peter Sonders -------- Sportsflyer Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=265297#265297 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 28, 2009
From: gary <gkrysztopik(at)satx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: WANTED Subaru EA81 Intake Manifold (Bing Carb Setup)
I don't know of any other than buying from Stratus. He does sell individual parts. Gary Krysztopik www.ZWheelz.com www.aceaa.org http://voices.mysanantonio.com/drive_electric_san_antonio/ San Antonio, TX special4 wrote: > > I am rebuilding a Subaru EA81 and need a lightweight intake manifold. Stratus style) Any sources...?? > Thanks > Peter Sonders > > -------- > Sportsflyer > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=265297#265297 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 28, 2009
From: LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Subject: Re: WANTED Subaru EA81 Intake Manifold (Bing Carb Setup)
Hi Peter, Stratus sells the intake setup in his parts listing. http://stratus2000.homestead.com/files/stratusnew/index.htm I shouldn't think it would cost too much. Larry McFarland 601HDS Stratus Subaru Powered at www.macsmachine.com special4 wrote: > > I am rebuilding a Subaru EA81 and need a lightweight intake manifold. Stratus style) Any sources...?? > Thanks > Peter Sonders > > -------- > Sportsflyer > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=265297#265297 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: WANTED Subaru EA81 Intake Manifold (Bing Carb Setup)
From: "special4" <sportsflyer(at)COMCAST.NET>
Date: Sep 28, 2009
Thanks Gary, thanks Larry. I will contact Stratus. Peter -------- Sportsflyer Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=265345#265345 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 07, 2009
From: Don Walker <d3dw(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: bolt torque
Anybody remember the torque value for the bolts to the lower gear for the r eduction unit? I'm thinking it is about 20 ft. lbs. but not sure.- Couldn 't find it in my records. don ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: PLEASE READ - Matronics Email List Fund Raiser During November!
Dear Listers, Each November I hold a PBS-like fund raiser to support the continued operation and upgrade of the List services at Matronics. It's solely through the Contributions of List members that these Matronics Lists are possible. There is NO advertising to support the Lists. You might have noticed the conspicuous lack of flashing banners and annoying pop-ups on the Matronics Email List email messages and web site pages such as the Matronics List Forums ( http://forums.matronics.com ), the List Wiki ( http://wiki.matronics.com), or other related pages such as the List Search Engine ( http://www.matronics.com/search ), the List Browser ( http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse ), etc. This is because I believe in a List experience that is completely about the sport we all enjoy - namely Airplanes and not about annoying advertisements. During the month of November I will be sending out List messages every couple of days reminding everyone that the Fund Raiser is underway. I ask for your patience and understanding during the Fund Raiser and throughout these regular messages. The Fund Raiser is only financial support mechanism I have to pay all of the bills associated with running these lists. Your personal Contribution counts! Once again, this year I've got a terrific line up of free gifts to go along with the various Contribution levels. Most all of these gifts have been provided by some of the vary members and vendors that you'll find on Matronics Lists and have been either donated or provided at substantially discounted rates. This year, these generous people include Bob Nuckolls of the AeroElectric Connection (http://www.aeroelectric.com/), Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore (http://www.buildersbooks.com/), and Jon Croke of HomebuiltHELP (http://www.homebuilthelp.com/). These are extremely generous guys and I encourage you to visit their respective web sites. Each one offers a unique and very useful aviation-related product line. I would like publicly to thank Bob, Andy, and Jon for their generous support of the Lists again this year!! You can make your List Contribution using any one of three secure methods this year including using a credit card, PayPal, or by personal check. All three methods afford you the opportunity to select one of this year's free gifts with a qualifying Contribution amount!! To make your Contribution, please visit the secure site below: http://www.matronics.com/contribution I would like to thank everyone in advance for their generous financial AND moral support over the years! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: November List Fund Raiser
A couple of years ago I implemented an automatic "squelch button" of sorts for the Fund Raiser messages. Here's how it works... As soon as a List member makes a Contribution through the Matronics Fund Raiser web site, he or she will instantly cease to receive these Fund Raiser messages for the rest of the month! Its just that simple. Don't you wish PBS worked that way! :-) I really do appreciate each and every one of your individual Contributions to support the Lists. It is your support that enables me to upgrade the hardware and software that are required to run a List Site such as this one. It also goes to pay for the commercial-grade Internet connection and to pay the huge electric bill to keep the computer gear running and the air conditioner powered on. I run all of the Matronics Email List and Forums sites here locally which allows me to control and monitor every aspect of the system for the utmost in reliably and performance. Your personal Contribution matters because, when combined with other Listers such as yourself, it pays the bills to keep this site up and running. I accept exactly ZERO advertising dollars for the Matronics Lists sites. I can't stand the pop-up ads and all other commercials that are so prevalent on the Internet these days and I particularly don't want to have it on my Email List sites. If you appreciate the ad-free, grass-roots, down-home feel of the Matronics Email Lists, please make a Contribution to keep it that way!! http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator [Note that there are certain circumstances where you might still see a Contribution related message. For example, if someone replies to one of the messages, when using the List Browse feature, or when accessing List message via the Forum. The system keys on the given email address and since most of these are anonymous public access methods, there is no simple way to filter them.] ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 05, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Reminder
Dear Listers, Just a quick reminder that November is the annual List Fund Raiser. The Matronics Lists are 100% member supported and all of the operational costs are provided for my your Contributions during this time of the year. Your personal Contribution makes a difference and keeps all of the Matronics Email Lists and Forums completely ad-free. Please make your Contribution today to keep these services up and running! http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you in advance! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 07, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists
Dear Listers, There is no advertising income to support the Matronics Email Lists and Forums. The operation is supported 100% by your personal Contributions during the November Fund Raiser. Please make your Contribution today to support the continued operation and upgrade of these services. You can pick up a really nice gift for making your Contribution too! You may use a Credit Card or Paypal at the Matronics Contribution Site here: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or, you can send a personal check to the following address: Matronics / Matt Dralle PO Box 347 Livermore, CA 94551-0347 Thank you in advance for your generous support! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 09, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Fund Raiser List of Contributors - Please Make A Contribution
Today! Each year at the end of the List Fund Raiser, I post a message acknowledging everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation for the Lists. Won't you take a moment and assure that your name is on that List of Contributors (LOC)? As a number of members have pointed out over the years, the List seems at least - if not a whole lot more - valuable as a building/flying/recreating/entertainment tool as your typical magazine subscription! Please take minute and assure that your name is on this year's LOC! Show others that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is fast and easy using your Credit card or Paypal on the Secure Web Site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or by dropping a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics PO Box 347 Livermore CA 94551-0347 I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps these Lists going and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about how the Lists have helped you! Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 11, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: List Fund Raiser
Dear Listers, Just a reminder that November is the Matronics Email List Fund Raiser month. There are some very nice incentive gifts to choose from as well! Please make your Contribution today: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 13, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Some Very Nice Comments...
Dear Listers, I've been getting some really nice comments from Listers along with their List Support Contributions. I've shared some of them below. Please read them over and see what your fellow Listers think of the Lists and Forums. Please make a Contribution today to support the continued upgrade and operation of these services. There are lots of sweet gifts available, so browse the extensive selection and pickup a nice item along with your qualifying Contribution. http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you in advance for your generous support! It is very much appreciated! Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ----------- What Listers Are Saying About The Lists ----------- Few things in life bring more usefulness than the List. This is worth every penny! Stephen T. I have enjoyed the list for way too many years, but continue to get closer to flying my project with the help of listers. C.L. Thanks for this List. It's been a great source of encouragement and information. Arden A. Great service! Gerald T. It's always interesting reading the lists and I've gotten some good help from the issues and answers there. Steve T. Been a member of the List for 12 years. Keep up the good work. John H. Great Site! Harry M. Great source of information... Martin H. Thanks for providing this great service! Jeff P. I continue to get and give information through these lists. Ralph C. This is a wonderful resource! Warren H. This is what inernet was meant for, sharing information and experience. Michael W. Thanks for making such a good list! Fred D. Thanks for running a great service! Michael F. I really appreciate it. Dan H. Thanks for the great service. Michael L. Thanks for maintaining this great resource. John C. Your sites have been a great resourses and an introduction to many competent aircraft designers and fabricators. Jon M. Thanks for all that you do to maintain the Matronics forums and for the personal help that you have been to me in answering my questions regarding the use of the forums. William B. [The List] helped me get flying, fly off my test hours and make my systems better. Ralph C. The Universe is a better place because of you. Eric J. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Contributions Down By 21%...
Dear Listers, As of today, contributions to the Matronics List Fund Raiser are lagging behind last year at this time by 21%. I have a fund raiser each year simply to cover my operating costs for the Lists. I *do not* accept any advertising income to support the Lists and rely solely on the contributions of members to keep the expenses paid. I run all of my own servers and they are housed here locally, and the Internet connection is a commercial-grade, T1 connection with public address space. I also maintain a full backup system that does nightly backups of all List-related data so that in the event of a server crash or worse, all of the Lists and the many years of List archive data could be restored onto a new server in a matter of hours. All of this costs a fair amount of money, not to mention a significant amount of my personal time as well. I have a Fund Raiser each year to cover these costs and I ask that members that feel they receive a benefit from my investments, make a modest contribution each year to support the continued operation and upgrade of these services. If you enjoy the Lists, please make a contribution today. I also offer some incentive gifts for larger contribution levels. At the Contribution Web Wite, you can use a credit card, Paypal, or personal check to show your support for the continuation of these services: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you for your support! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: What's My Contribution Used For?
Dear Listers, Some have asked, "What's my Contribution used for?" and that's a good question. Here are just a few examples of what your direct List support enables. It provides for the very expensive, commercial-grade T1 Internet connection used on the List insuring maximum performance and minimal contention when accessing List services. It pays for the regular system hardware and software upgrades enabling the highest performance possible for services such as the Archive Search Engine, List Browser, and Forums. It pays for narly 20 years (yeah, I really said *20* years) worth of online archive data available for instant random search and access. And, it offsets the many hours spent writing, developing, and maintaining the custom applications that power this List Service such as the List Browse, Search Engine, Forums, and Wiki. But most importantly, your List Contribution enables a forum where you and your peers can communicate freely in an environment that is free from moderation, censorship, advertising, commercialism, SPAM, and computer viruses. How many places on the Internet can you make all those statements these days? It is YOUR CONTRIBUTION that directly enables these many aspects of these valuable List services. Please support it today with your List Contribution. Its one of the best investments you can make in your Sport... List Contribution Web Site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you for your support! Matt Dralle Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 20, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Just A Few Days Left; Still Trailing Last Year...
Dear Listers, There are just a few more days left of this year's List Fund Raiser! Response has been very good, but still well behind last year. If you've been waiting until the last minute to make your contribution and maybe even pick up a great gift, now might be good time to show your support! Please remember that there isn't any sort of commercial advertising on the Lists and the *only* means of keeping these Lists running is through your Contributions during this Fund Raiser. Please make a Contribution today! http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Make Sure You're Listed! List of Contributors Published
in December! Dear Listers, The List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner! In December I post a list of everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation for the Lists. Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming LOC? Tell others that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is fast and easy using your Visa, MasterCard, or Paypal account: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to: Matronics / Matt Dralle PO Box 347 Livermore CA 94551-0347 USA (Please include your email address on the check!) I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus far during this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps these Lists running and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about how the Lists have helped you! Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 24, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Just A Few More Days To Make Your List Contribution...
There is less than a week left in this year's List Fund Raiser and only a few short days to grab one of the great Contribution Gifts available this year. Support is still significantly lagging behind last year at this point but hopefully it will pick up here towards the end. Please remember that it is solely the Contributions of List members that keeps the Lists up and running as there is no commercialism or advertising on the Matronics Lists and Forums. The List Contribution web site is secure, fast, and easy and you can use a credit card, Paypal, or a personal check: http://www.matronics.com/contribution I want to thank everyone that has already made a generous contribution to support the Lists! Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics EMail List and Forum Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: What Are You Thankful For...?
Dear Listers, Here in the United States, Thursday is our National day of Thanksgiving. Many of us will be traveling to be with our families and friends to share in generous feasts of plenty and giving thanks for many blessings that have been bestowed upon us. Many Listers have expressed over the last couple of weeks how thankful they are for the Email Lists and Forums here on the Matronics servers and for all of the assistance and comradery they have experienced being a part of the Lists. One of my favorite comments is when someone writes to me and says something like, "Its the first thing I do in the morning while I'm having my morning coffee!". That's a wonderful tribute to the purpose and function of these Lists. Its always great to hear I'm not the only one that jumps out of bed each morning to check my List email!! Won't you take a minute today and show your appreciation for these Lists and for their continued operation and upgrade? The List Contribution Site is: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you in advance for your kind consideration, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 28, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: No "Black Friday" For List Fund Raiser...
Even though the number of List subscriptions and List posts are up significantly this year compared to last year, support during this year's List Fund Raiser has been woefully lagging from last year. There are only a couple more days left in November and the end of the Fund Raiser is quickly approaching. I have always preferred a non-commercial List experience as many, many members have also expressed that they do as well. However, if the yearly fund raiser cannot generate sufficient funds to keep the bills paid on the List service expenses, I will have to look into some sort of advertising. Please don't let that happen! Your personal contribution of $20 or $30 goes a long ways to keeping the operation a float. The lunch combo at Carl's Jr costs nearly $10 these days. Isn't the List worth at least as much as a couple of burgers? Please make sure your name is on this year's List of Contributors published in December. The Contribution site is secure, quick, and easy: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you in advance for your support! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Just Two More Days Left; Fund Raiser Behind By 12%...
Dear Listers, This year's List Fund Raiser is still trailing last year by a 12% margin. If you like the ad-free environment that is the Matronics Email List and Forum experience, please make a quick Contribution to keep it that way! http://www.matronics.com/contribution I've been getting a ton of really nice comments from Contributors regarding the Lists. Please read over some of them below and see if they don't resonate with you as well. Thank you in advance for your generous contribution to support these Lists! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator --------------------------- Member Feedback ---------------------------- ur web site is a real institution of the whole Experimental Aircraft subculture. John G Thanks Matt for the lists. A lot of good info. Great bunch of list members. Great videos and no SPAM. Paul C It has been a valuable tool. Troy M ..appreciate the site as much as ever. Larry M By using various forums I've learned a ton, received great advice, made friends, and saved money! Craig W Since I've finished [my project], I've not had much to do as far as fabrication of electrical systems. However, selectively reading various topics is still very valuable and Bob's insights and new how to's make me a continuous subscriber. Larry F Matronics user groups are the best tool I have for learning to build my RV-10! Philip W There is always useful knowledge to be found on this list, and I suspect that it has kept quite a few people out of trouble over the years it has been in operation. Good entertainment, too. Graham H Great web site. I wish I'd known about it while building. Bob S I'm happy to provide some support to this list. It is very helpful. Vaughn T Good service to sport aviation!! Roger B Awesome Service you provide for us! Bill R My [project] is almost finished! However, it wouldn't be close without the [this] group. Douwe B Great list. Robert S I'm not a builder yet but learning lots from the list. Peter M Some nonsense, some humor, but mostly good information. Tony C Thanks for creating and keeping the Lists. They are entertaining and always informative! John M Thanks for this valuable resource to our community. Barry H The list is IMHO the greatest resource on the net. John B Thanks again for providing another year of your useful List service. Jerry B Great site indeed, every time I get a message I usually learn something. Peter B You are making a huge contribution to the builder fraternity and in no small way enhancing sport aviation safety. Richard G The List is the SINGLE, MOST IMPORTANT resource I have in building my RV10. I would be lost without out it. And I have made a bunch of new friends as well! Les K The lists are one of the things I really enjoy, so keep up the good work. Freddie H Every year -- the best value for my time and money! Owen B This list is a major contribution to safe building! Donald K Really enjoy the daily boost it gives me. Walter S In the last 18 months I have been privileged to listen & ask. I have learnt at the feet of the masters... Stewart G You set the standard on how Internet forums should be run and managed. Larry W The Universe is a better place because of you. Eric J [The List] helped me get flying, fly off my test hours and make my systems better. I continue to get and give information through these lists. Ralph C ..another GREAT year of advice, answers, and inspiration courtesy of the Lists and your hard work!!!! Rob B ..the best forum on the Internet! Robert B I can't tell you how grateful I am for your list and your subscribers to keep me up to date and holding the dream. Ashley M This page makes it easy to contribute. Jeffrey P Thank you for your expertise in creating & running the much useful lists! Anthony P Thanks for providing our advertising free on line community. George R Thanks for maintaining the equipment and software to provide this valuable source of information to us individuals. Your effort is appreciated by many more people than you realize. Ross H Thanks for a great site. Although the project is complete and flying I still get a wealth of information from all the messages. Marcus C Only learned about you six months ago...my RV-7A is just finished, but the list has been helpful. Wish I had discovered you sooner. Jack B This is an invaluable communications media for us common minded folks to exchange technical and other information. George H ..great service that you provide. David W ..still appreciate your list. Alain L [The] Lists are an invaluable resource. I know that it has helped me enormously in my project. William B ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: [Please Read] - Last Official Day of List Fund Raiser!
Dear Listers, Its November 30th and that means at least two things. For better or worse, its my 46th birthday! But it also means that its that last official day of the Matronics Email List Fund Raiser! If you been jones'n over one of the really nice gifts that are available this year with a qualifying Contribution, then now is the time to jump on one!! If you've been meaning to make a Contribution this month but have been putting it off for some reason, NOW is the time! I will be posting the List of Contributors in a few days, so you'll probably want to be known as a person that supported the Lists! I want to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution so far this year in support of our Lists. It is your generosity that keeps this operation a float and I don't ever forget it. Hopefully everyone feels the same. The List Contribution Web Site is fast and easy. Please support our habit by making your Contribution right now: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you to all in advance! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 2009
From: LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Subject: Subaru oil filter relocation hose and fitting kit
Greg, Look at J.C.Whitney for the oil filter relocation hose and fitting kit. Fits 1986 thru 1997. *OIL FILTER RELOCATION HOSE AND FITTING KITS * * /Single- or dual-filter system for all vehicles through 1997 with spin-on oil filter / See link, http://www.jcwhitney.com/jcwhitney/product/images/large/G_10863G_CL_1.jpg Larry McFarland ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 2009
From: LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Subject: Subaru oil filter relocation hose and fitting kit
Greg, Look at J.C.Whitney for the oil filter relocation hose and fitting kit. Fits 1986 thru 1997. *OIL FILTER RELOCATION HOSE AND FITTING KITS * * /Single- or dual-filter system for all vehicles through 1997 with spin-on oil filter / See link, http://www.jcwhitney.com/jcwhitney/product/images/large/G_10863G_CL_1.jpg Larry McFarland ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 11, 2009
From: LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Subject: water heat for the cockpit
Hi guys, I'm looking for a best installation of a coolant heater for the cabin. My heat muff works o.k. down to freezing, but I'm looking at components that might offer better cabin warming. Perhaps you Canadians have a list of parts that better describes what you used and how you made connections within the cabin. Even pictures would be nice. Thanks Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 11, 2009
From: LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Subject: water heat for the cockpit
Hi guys, I'm looking for a best installation of a coolant heater for the cabin. My heat muff works o.k. down to freezing, but I'm looking at components that might offer better cabin warming. Perhaps you Canadians have a list of parts that better describes what you used and how you made connections within the cabin. Even pictures would be nice. Thanks Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 11, 2009
From: gary <gkrysztopik(at)satx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: water heat for the cockpit
Larry, The heat in my Pelican with the Stratus was amazing. I posted pics in airsoob years ago - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AirSoob/files/cabin%20heat/ It uses a VW heater core but I'm sure anything will work. Just tap into the bypass loop and send that heat into the cabin. You'll need two 3/4" holes in the firewall to get the hoses thru, with obvious care to preclude the 200 degree coolant from bursting into your lap during flight. Mine worked very well for years but I removed it when I moved to Texas. I'd be happy to share any details on the box design, or you can contact one or both of the new Pelican manufacturers to see if they sell parts or heater kits. Knowing your capabilities, you can come up with something pretty slick. Gary Krysztopik ZWheelz, LLC - www.ZWheelz.com Alamo City Electric Auto Association - www.aceaa.org blog - http://voices.mysanantonio.com/drive_electric_san_antonio/ San Antonio, TX LarryMcFarland wrote: > > > Hi guys, > I'm looking for a best installation of a coolant heater for the cabin. > My heat muff works o.k. down to freezing, but I'm looking at components > that might offer better cabin warming. Perhaps you Canadians have > a list of parts that better describes what you used and > how you made connections within the cabin. > > Even pictures would be nice. > > Thanks > > Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 11, 2009
From: gary <gkrysztopik(at)satx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: water heat for the cockpit
Let me explain the pictures better. The little airscoop on the side of the fuselage brings in fresh air. It is boxed off on the inside and has a selector flap with two outlets. One goes to the inlet on the heater box before the heater core for "hot" and the other goes to the inlet after the heater core for "cold". These inlets are the two 2" tubes sticking out in pic 427. I mounted an automotive control panel with cables to control this. The hot/cold cable just moved the flap. The 2" outlet on the heater box (center of three outlet tubes) went to a panel mounted vent. The two small outlets went to defrost (one pilot side and one pax side), and the bottom slot was "foot" heat. Again, a cable from the automotive panel controlled this just like in a car. Very slick system that blasted out nice heat. The panel vents are moveable eyeballs with vents that can be directed or closed. The guy next to me with a cub used to put on a bunch of layers to go flying, and I would be taking layers of before getting in my plane. Toasty warm on any winter day. Gary Krysztopik ZWheelz, LLC - www.ZWheelz.com Alamo City Electric Auto Association - www.aceaa.org blog - http://voices.mysanantonio.com/drive_electric_san_antonio/ San Antonio, TX LarryMcFarland wrote: > > > Hi guys, > I'm looking for a best installation of a coolant heater for the cabin. > My heat muff works o.k. down to freezing, but I'm looking at components > that might offer better cabin warming. Perhaps you Canadians have > a list of parts that better describes what you used and > how you made connections within the cabin. > > Even pictures would be nice. > > Thanks > > Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com>
Date: Dec 11, 2009
Subject: water heat for the cockpit
What I did on mine was as Bryan suggested..I.e fed the bypass line thru the heater core with no valve...Just had 4 computer fans, run two for low setting and all four for high. I never noticed any heat from the core with the fans not running. Frank -----Original Message----- From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bryan Martin Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 7:11 AM Subject: Re: Stratus-List: water heat for the cockpit --> I have an auxiliary heater unit from J. C. Whitney: http://tinyurl.com/yb3tw8e It's a bit heavy at 7 lb. and provides more heat than I can use at the high fan setting. I've flown at temperatures down below zero F and the cabin was still comfortable. I have it installed just behind the firewall on the bracket that supports my radio stack. The water supply is tapped off of the bypass line that runs from the water pump to the thermostat. I have a couple of Tees and a water valve to control the heat flow. I usually run it at the low fan setting with the water valve part way open and it provides plenty of heat. On really cold days, I might run it with the valve full open and the medium fan speed. The high fan setting will provide quick defogging and cabin heat as the engine starts to warm up. It really has more heating capacity than I need for that small a cabin. I bought it because, at the time, I didn't feel like making a heater unit from scratch. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 21, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: 2009 List of Contributors
Dear Listers, The 2009 Matronics Email List and Forum Fund Raiser officially ended a couple of weeks ago and its time that I publish this year's List of Contributors. Its the people on this list that directly make the Email Lists and Forums possible. Their generous contributions keep the servers and Internet connection up and running. You can still show your support this year and pick up a great gift at the same time. The Contribution Web Site is fast, easy, and secure: http://www.matronics.com/contribution I also want to thank Bob, Jon, Andy, and John for their generous support through the supply of great gifts this year!! These guys have some great products and I encourage you to visit their respective web sites: Bob Nucklolls - AeroElectric - www.aeroelectric.com Jon Croke - HomebuiltHELP - www.homebuilthelp.com Andy Gold - The Builder's Bookstore - www.buildersbooks.com John Caldwell - HowToCrimp - www.howtocrimp.com And finally, I'm proud to present The 2009 Fund Raiser List of Contributors: http://www.matronics.com/loc/2009.html Thanks again to everyone that made a Contribution this year!! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 27, 2010
From: Larry McFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Subject: Re: Stratus PRSU belt
Hi Ron, I realized my original source is no more. With further investigation, I found a company at polybelt.com called Polytech Design Inc and called them. A gentleman named Zac confirmed availability for the Jason HTB 880-8M at 60mm width. This is a 110-tooth belt that has to be bought as minimum order of 2 at $46.13 each. These belts are cut to width originally, so don't be worried that their catalog doesn't mention the 60mm width. The price is reasonable considering original belts cost nearer $65.00 each. Their number is 1-800-859-7659 I'll probably order two to stay ahead of the game. I have one spare with 145 hours on it and it is kept in a large zip-lock bag for ozone protection. That's needed for years of storage on edge on an unlit shelf. Industry sees 6 years 24-7 usage at horsepower maximums before replacing, so 3-years or 300 hours seems short if it weren't for planes stored outdoors in extremes of weather. Hope this works for you. Best regards, Larry McFarland Ronbo135(at)aol.com wrote: > Larry, > > I hope your heater project is working out. > > I'm trying to order a new PRSU belt and I can't find it using the info > in the manual: Gates #7300. Do you have a better part number and a > reputable place to get these? > > Thanks, > > Ron Hansen > Oxnard, CA > 601HDS, Stratus, BRS > FAA inspection scheduled 2/4/10! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ronbo135(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 27, 2010
Subject: Re: Stratus PRSU belt
Larry, Thank you so much. Every question answered. Take care, Ron In a message dated 1/27/2010 1:22:50 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, larry(at)macsmachine.com writes: --> Stratus-List message posted by: Larry McFarland Hi Ron, I realized my original source is no more. With further investigation, I found a company at polybelt.com called Polytech Design Inc and called them. A gentleman named Zac confirmed availability for the Jason HTB 880-8M at 60mm width. This is a 110-tooth belt that has to be bought as minimum order of 2 at $46.13 each. These belts are cut to width originally, so don't be worried that their catalog doesn't mention the 60mm width. The price is reasonable considering original belts cost nearer $65.00 each. Their number is 1-800-859-7659 I'll probably order two to stay ahead of the game. I have one spare with 145 hours on it and it is kept in a large zip-lock bag for ozone protection. That's needed for years of storage on edge on an unlit shelf. Industry sees 6 years 24-7 usage at horsepower maximums before replacing, so 3-years or 300 hours seems short if it weren't for planes stored outdoors in extremes of weather. Hope this works for you. Best regards, Larry McFarland Ronbo135(at)aol.com wrote: > Larry, > > I hope your heater project is working out. > > I'm trying to order a new PRSU belt and I can't find it using the info > in the manual: Gates #7300. Do you have a better part number and a > reputable place to get these? > > Thanks, > > Ron Hansen > Oxnard, CA > 601HDS, Stratus, BRS > FAA inspection scheduled 2/4/10! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 29, 2010
From: gary <gkrysztopik(at)satx.rr.com>
Subject: front crank seal
Anybody still here? Has anybody solved the front crank seal problem? This is my third leak. Last time I tried the stainless sleeve that's made for replacement seals. I think I need to machine a new bushing. Gary Krysztopik ZWheelz, LLC - www.ZWheelz.com Alamo City Electric Auto Association - www.aceaa.org blog - http://voices.mysanantonio.com/drive_electric_san_antonio/ San Antonio, TX > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 29, 2010
From: gary <gkrysztopik(at)satx.rr.com>
Subject: front crank seal
Anybody still here? Has anybody solved the front crank seal problem? This is my third leak. Last time I tried the stainless sleeve that's made for replacement seals. I think I need to machine a new bushing. Gary Krysztopik ZWheelz, LLC - www.ZWheelz.com Alamo City Electric Auto Association - www.aceaa.org blog - http://voices.mysanantonio.com/drive_electric_san_antonio/ San Antonio, TX > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 29, 2010
From: Larry McFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Subject: Re: front crank seal
Hi Gary, I had a leaky front crank seal and after cleaning the area thoroughly, put a ring of 3M adhesive sealant in there all round, let it cure real well and then fingered in another ring to get the area covered. No leaks since! Perhaps, the irregular motion between parts causes the leak and the adhesive flexes enough to hold things dry. When speaking of the front seal, I assume it's the end that your redrive goes on, not the actual Subaru car-crank front end, right? Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com gary wrote: > > Anybody still here? > > Has anybody solved the front crank seal problem? This is my third > leak. Last time I tried the stainless sleeve that's made for > replacement seals. I think I need to machine a new bushing. > > Gary Krysztopik > ZWheelz, LLC - www.ZWheelz.com > Alamo City Electric Auto Association - www.aceaa.org > blog - http://voices.mysanantonio.com/drive_electric_san_antonio/ San > Antonio, TX > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 29, 2010
From: gary <gkrysztopik(at)satx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: front crank seal
> > I had a leaky front crank seal and after cleaning the area thoroughly, > put a ring of 3M adhesive sealant in there all round, let it cure real > well and then fingered in > another ring to get the area covered. No leaks since! Perhaps, the > irregular motion between parts causes the leak and the adhesive flexes > enough to hold things dry. interesting. did you put it on the seal or the groove in the spacer? > When speaking of the front seal, I assume it's the end that your > redrive goes on, not the actual Subaru car-crank front end, right? > > yessir ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 2010
From: Don Walker <d3dw(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: egt readings
What are normal values for egt in the mid range...say 3500 rpm. I just inst alled a dual egt...been running it without one all these years.=0A-=0AMy idle egt readings are even with smooth running up to about 1700 rpm or so. Then I'm getting rough running with my left bank showing about 900 and the right up to 1250. This problem has just developed with about 450 hrs on the - Bing carbs. Can't find any air leaks, but it occured to me I don't know what normal is...could be the left is too cool.=0A-=0ACompression is eve n all the way around.- don walker ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 2010
From: gary <gkrysztopik(at)satx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: egt readings
Don, I still don't have EGT's yet but I have a spreadsheet with others EA-81's (non-Stratus) and two reported 1350 and one 1325. Have you pulled the carb boots to inspect? Tightened plugs? Checked exhaust manifold nuts? Fuel filters? Gary Krysztopik San Antonio, TX Don Walker wrote: > What are normal values for egt in the mid range...say 3500 rpm. I just > installed a dual egt...been running it without one all these years. > > My idle egt readings are even with smooth running up to about 1700 rpm > or so. Then I'm getting rough running with my left bank showing about > 900 and the right up to 1250. This problem has just developed with > about 450 hrs on the Bing carbs. Can't find any air leaks, but it > occured to me I don't know what normal is...could be the left is too cool. > > Compression is even all the way around. don walker > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 07, 2010
From: Larry McFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Subject: Re: egt readings
Don, The volume of air to the Bings has a good deal to do with differences in EGT. I found the cool side was getting less air pressure to the air filter than the warm side. Don't think you have any leaks and a well-adjusted pair of Bings will provide EGTs of plus or minus 50 degrees of one another side to side. 1350 is a good target for EGTs at 4500 to 4800 rpm in cruise. Would think EGTs would be lower at 3500 rpm. With the HDS wing, one seldom cruises below 4000 rpm. If you have a bad ignition wire, EGTs should show an over-rich condition (lower temps). Going with the higher temp suggests a lean condition resulting from too much air and /or no problems with the ignition wires that side. Example, in a steep descent toward the airport from 3000 feet, my reduced rpms will often see the EGT approach 1450, my set point for the caution light. I have to pull the enrichment half way out to get enough fuel to cool things. The EGTs nearly drop immediately and seldom return the rest of the way down. Excess air in descent creates a very lean condition temporarily at low rpms, 3500 to 3700 rpm. Something to consider, Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com Stratus Subaru at 155 hours. Don Walker wrote: > What are normal values for egt in the mid range...say 3500 rpm. I just > installed a dual egt...been running it without one all these years. > > My idle egt readings are even with smooth running up to about 1700 rpm > or so. Then I'm getting rough running with my left bank showing about > 900 and the right up to 1250. This problem has just developed with > about 450 hrs on the Bing carbs. Can't find any air leaks, but it > occured to me I don't know what normal is...could be the left is too cool. > > Compression is even all the way around. don walker > * > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 08, 2010
From: Larry McFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Subject: Spare parts source
Hi guys, For you who fly behind the Stratus Subaru or just do dual ignition on one of the varieties, Ive been revisiting my engine wiring and found my ignition coil plates are rusty from the moist air coming thru the cowl. Having spares has real merit because spare parts are often discontinued after 10 years or so. Ignition coils purchased nearly 8years ago for $35.00 each are now $93.00. Useful alternatives to the pricey Echlin IC107 coils can be found by searching for coils used on a 1987-1990 Mitsubishi wagon or van. The equivalent parts are easier to find at $30.00 and up. I chose ORiellys Auto Parts on line and they have 4 sources for this coil. Ive maintained a spares box for all things consumable, brake pads, bungees, fuel lines, scat tube etc, and after only 157 hours of flight, I guess coils are next. Fly safe guys, Larry McFarland Zenith 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 08, 2010
From: Don Walker <d3dw(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Spare parts source
Mine have been rusty forever...here in the humid country of East Texas. I h eard that the rust on the coils is not a big deal. Maybe you can educate me on this a little more.=C2- don=0A=0AThanks for the info on the spares. =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Larry McFarland <la rry(at)macsmachine.com>=0ATo: zenith-list ; stratus -list =0ASent: Tue, June 8, 2010 11:38:07 AM=0A Subject: Stratus-List: Spare parts source=0A=0A--> Stratus-List message pos ted by: Larry McFarland =0A=0AHi guys,=0A=0AFor you who fly behind the Stratus Subaru or just do dual ignition on one of the va rieties,=0A=0AI=99ve been revisiting my engine wiring and found my ig nition coil plates are rusty from the moist air coming thru the cowl. Havin g spares has real merit because spare parts are often discontinued after 10 years or so. Ignition coils purchased nearly 8years ago for $35.00 each ar e now $93.00. Useful alternatives to the pricey Echlin IC107 coils can be f ound by searching for coils used on a 1987-1990 Mitsubishi wagon or van. Th e equivalent parts are easier to find at $30.00 and up. I chose O=99R ielly=99s Auto Parts on line and they have 4 sources for this coil. I =99ve maintained a spares box for all things consumable, brake pads, bungees, fuel lines, scat tube etc, and after only 157 hours of flight, I g uess coils are next.=0A=0AFly safe guys,=0A=0ALarry McFarland Zenith 601HDS - =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- - ============= ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 08, 2010
From: Larry McFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Subject: Re: Spare parts source
Hi Don, I don't think at this stage, the rust on the coils is any issue of concern. I do think because ignition coils are one of the few items that fail and are cause for having two, it is probably prudent to have an extra one or two in the box as available spares. Just for price and availability. Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com Don Walker wrote: > Mine have been rusty forever...here in the humid country of East > Texas. I heard that the rust on the coils is not a big deal. Maybe you > can educate me on this a little more. don > > Thanks for the info on the spares. > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Larry McFarland > *To:* zenith-list ; stratus-list > > *Sent:* Tue, June 8, 2010 11:38:07 AM > *Subject:* Stratus-List: Spare parts source > > > > > Hi guys, > > For you who fly behind the Stratus Subaru or just do dual ignition on > one of the varieties, > > Ive been revisiting my engine wiring and found my ignition coil > plates are rusty from the moist air coming thru the cowl. Having > spares has real merit because spare parts are often discontinued after > 10 years or so. Ignition coils purchased nearly 8years ago for $35.00 > each are now $93.00. Useful alternatives to the pricey Echlin IC107 > coils can be found by searching for coils used on a 1987-1990 > Mitsubishi wagon or van. The equivalent parts are easier to find at > $30.00 and up. I chose ORiellys Auto Parts on line and they have 4 > sources for this coil. Ive maintained a spares box for all things > consumable, brake pads, bungees, fuel lines, scat tube etc, and after > only 157 hours of flight, I guess coils are next. > > Fly safe guys, > > Larry McFarland Zenith 601HDS at > <http://www.macsmachsp;+%C2%A0+%C2%A0+%C2%A0+%C2%A0+%C2%A0+%C2%A0+%C2%A0+%C2%A0+%C2%A0+-Matt+Dr=============%3CBR%3E%3CBR%3E%3CBR%3E%3CBR%3E%3C/DIV%3E%3C/DIV%3E%3C/div%3E%3C/body%3E%0A%3Cpre%3E%3Cb%3E%3Cfont%20size=2%20color=>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Stratus-List > http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com>
Date: Jun 09, 2010
Subject: Spare parts source
Just a perspective from an Ex stratus flyer..but LONG LONG time tinkerer... Mostly trying to find a way to keep the valves in the heads before the engi ne tried to kill me again! The standard Subaru ignitor chips are hopelessly feeble..In fact I seem to remember comparing the measured primary coil resistance and comparing it to the subaru Brat specs for the Subaru coil. if memory serves, it was about half of what the sooby spec was. What this means is two things.. 1) In the steady state condition (like you turn the ignition on and then st arted the engine) the ignitor chip is switching somewhere close to twice th e current it was designed for..Needless to say this puts a LOT more stress on the ignitor chip. 2) If the IC107 works then I bet there are hundreds of coils out there that could be made to work in the same application.. This is why it is important to get off the Sooby ignitor chips ASAP if you haven't done so already. When I sold the plane some 3 or 4 years back it wa s running dual GM ignitor chips (with a third spare mounted on the same pla te that I could swap to if one died on a X country trip). Those things are bullet proof..i even took an old one and shorted it out..This would instant ly kill a $300 Sooby ignitor chip, the GM worked perfectly after said abuse . Good luck all..I hope your still enjoying your airplanes..I have fond memor ies of mine. Frank 601HDS (about 500 hours when sold) RV7a..Also about 500 hours but about twice the distance..a lot of it in IMC ...:) _____ From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-se rver(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don Walker Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2010 3:22 PM Subject: Re: Stratus-List: Spare parts source Mine have been rusty forever...here in the humid country of East Texas. I h eard that the rust on the coils is not a big deal. Maybe you can educate me on this a little more. don Thanks for the info on the spares. _____ From: Larry McFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> ronics.com> Sent: Tue, June 8, 2010 11:38:07 AM Subject: Stratus-List: Spare parts source mailto:larry(at)macsmachine.com>> Hi guys, For you who fly behind the Stratus Subaru or just do dual ignition on one o f the varieties, I've been revisiting my engine wiring and found my ignition coil plates are rusty from the moist air coming thru the cowl. Having spares has real meri t because spare parts are often discontinued after 10 years or so. Ignition coils purchased nearly 8years ago for $35.00 each are now $93.00. Useful a lternatives to the pricey Echlin IC107 coils can be found by searching for coils used on a 1987-1990 Mitsubishi wagon or van. The equivalent parts are easier to find at $30.00 and up. I chose O'Rielly's Auto Parts on line and they have 4 sources for this coil. I've maintained a spares box for all th ings consumable, brake pads, bungees, fuel lines, scat tube etc, and after only 157 hours of flight, I guess coils are next. Fly safe guys, -%20-%20-%20-%20-%20-%20-%20-Matt%20Dr======= ======

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Stratus-List =========== ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 27, 2010
From: Bill Morelli <billvt(at)together.net>
Subject: Stratus EA-81 Alternator
I had just replaced my rear seal (again) on the redrive end of the engine. I ran the engine with the prop removed to check for oil leaks. Heard a grinding, knocking noise coming from the alternator. Would never be able to hear this with prop on. Using a stethoscope, identified sound coming from rear of alternator (bearing area) Removed alternator and disassembled. Rear bearing was dry and scratchy. Removed grease seal on bearing and packed with grease. Brushes are worn some but seem to have a great deal of life remaining. Reassembled all and ran again. Noise still slightly there but much quieter than before. - I would like to replace the alternator - Mine is and old (built by Reiner Hoffman) engine - No numbers on alternator just a sticker that says rebuilt by Romaine Electric, Seattle, WA - Alternator has the square two wire plug plus the large lug for the output - Has anyone tried to find a source of alternators? - - Stratus wants $140 + $40 core charge + S&H - - I suppose I could contact Romaine Electric bur I'm not sure what kind of alternator to ask for. - Other option might be to ship it to Romaine for remanufacture!!! Any thoughts, suggestions, etc. would be appreciated. Regards, Bill from VT 601 HDS - Stratus - ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 27, 2010
From: Don Walker <d3dw(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Stratus EA-81 Alternator
It is usually inexpensive to have a good alternator shop rebuid one, Bill. I =0Ahave looked for the source of this alternator, too, but didn''t find i t, or =0ARomaine.- don in Texas.=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A__________________________ ______=0AFrom: Bill Morelli <billvt(at)together.net>=0ATo: stratus-list@matron ics.com=0ASent: Mon, September 27, 2010 6:13:50 PM=0ASubject: Stratus-List: elli =0A=0AI had just replaced my rear seal (again) on the redrive end of the engine.=0A=0AI ran the engine with the prop removed to check for oil leaks.=0A=0AHeard a grinding, knocking noise coming from the alternator. Would never be able =0Ato hear this with prop on.=0A=0AUsin g a stethoscope, identified sound coming from rear of alternator (bearing =0Aarea)=0A=0ARemoved alternator and disassembled. Rear bearing was dry and scratchy. Removed =0Agrease seal on bearing and packed with grease.=0A=0AB rushes are worn some but seem to have a great deal of life remaining.=0A=0A Reassembled all and ran again. Noise still slightly there but much quieter than =0Abefore.=0A=0A- I would like to replace the alternator=0A- Mine is a nd old (built by Reiner Hoffman) engine=0A- No numbers on alternator just a sticker that says rebuilt by Romaine Electric, =0ASeattle, WA=0A- Alternat or has the square two wire plug plus the large lug for the output=0A=0A- Ha s anyone tried to find a source of alternators?=0A- =0A- Stratus wants $140 + $40 core charge + S&H=0A- =0A- I suppose I could contact Romaine Electri c bur I'm not sure what kind of =0Aalternator to ask for.=0A- Other option might be to ship it to Romaine for remanufacture!!!=0A=0AAny thoughts, sugg estions, etc. would be appreciated.=0A=0ARegards,=0ABill from VT=0A601 HDS =================== ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 27, 2010
From: gary <gkrysztopik(at)satx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Stratus EA-81 Alternator
mine went out in-flight years ago. landed with backup battery and ignition (blew out main contactor and power went out when alt went) and replaced with one from auto parts store. no problems since. sorry, can't find purchase info at this time. I think it was around $100 for identical alt. Maybe ask on Flysoob list for p/n. I think I asked for Suzuki Samarai alt, maybe Geo Metro too? Gary Krysztopik ZWheelz, LLC - www.ZWheelz.com Alamo City Electric Auto Association - www.aceaa.org blog - http://voices.mysanantonio.com/drive_electric_san_antonio/ San Antonio, TX On 9/27/2010 6:13 PM, Bill Morelli wrote: > --> Stratus-List message posted by: Bill Morelli > > I had just replaced my rear seal (again) on the redrive end of the engine. > > I ran the engine with the prop removed to check for oil leaks. > > Heard a grinding, knocking noise coming from the alternator. Would never be able to hear this with prop on. > > Using a stethoscope, identified sound coming from rear of alternator (bearing area) > > Removed alternator and disassembled. Rear bearing was dry and scratchy. Removed grease seal on bearing and packed with grease. > > Brushes are worn some but seem to have a great deal of life remaining. > > Reassembled all and ran again. Noise still slightly there but much quieter than before. > > - I would like to replace the alternator > - Mine is and old (built by Reiner Hoffman) engine > - No numbers on alternator just a sticker that says rebuilt by Romaine Electric, Seattle, WA > - Alternator has the square two wire plug plus the large lug for the output > > - Has anyone tried to find a source of alternators? > - > - Stratus wants $140 + $40 core charge + S&H > - > - I suppose I could contact Romaine Electric bur I'm not sure what kind of alternator to ask for. > - Other option might be to ship it to Romaine for remanufacture!!! > > Any thoughts, suggestions, etc. would be appreciated. > > Regards, > Bill from VT > 601 HDS - Stratus - > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Andy Fultz" <andynfultz(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Stratus EA-81 Alternator
Date: Sep 27, 2010
Bill, The box mine came in says it's a POWER BUILT brand remanufactured alternator, part number 14684. Andy F. -----Original Message----- From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Morelli Sent: Monday, September 27, 2010 6:14 PM Subject: Stratus-List: Stratus EA-81 Alternator I had just replaced my rear seal (again) on the redrive end of the engine. I ran the engine with the prop removed to check for oil leaks. Heard a grinding, knocking noise coming from the alternator. Would never be able to hear this with prop on. Using a stethoscope, identified sound coming from rear of alternator (bearing area) Removed alternator and disassembled. Rear bearing was dry and scratchy. Removed grease seal on bearing and packed with grease. Brushes are worn some but seem to have a great deal of life remaining. Reassembled all and ran again. Noise still slightly there but much quieter than before. - I would like to replace the alternator - Mine is and old (built by Reiner Hoffman) engine - No numbers on alternator just a sticker that says rebuilt by Romaine Electric, Seattle, WA - Alternator has the square two wire plug plus the large lug for the output - Has anyone tried to find a source of alternators? - - Stratus wants $140 + $40 core charge + S&H - - I suppose I could contact Romaine Electric bur I'm not sure what kind of alternator to ask for. - Other option might be to ship it to Romaine for remanufacture!!! Any thoughts, suggestions, etc. would be appreciated. Regards, Bill from VT 601 HDS - Stratus - ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 14, 2010
From: Tim Shankland <tshankland(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Stratus engine mount
Has anyone had any problems with the engine mounts supplied by Stratus in my Zenith 601HD. During my annual I have discovered a crack in the upper right (passenger side) engine mount. It runs from the front top near the weld almost half way to the back. There are 140 hours on the engine and all other mounts appear OK. Tim Shankland ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry McFarland" <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Subject: Stratus engine mount
Date: Oct 14, 2010
Hi Tim, The crack you mention is very common with that specific engine mount adapter. I replaced mine much earlier. The fault lies with the length of the gusset and the welder's failure to do a full weld around The end of the gusset. The crack mostly begins at the end of the gusset where the stress is highest and the abrupt end of the weld causes the beginning of a crack. Some have welded a strap across the crack like a bridge after welding the crack back together and that often seems to work . I built a new adapter which has a longer gusset and it's been fine so far. If you mention this to Mykal at Stratus, he'll send you a replacement. Regards, Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Shankland Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2010 3:30 PM Subject: Stratus-List: Stratus engine mount Has anyone had any problems with the engine mounts supplied by Stratus in my Zenith 601HD. During my annual I have discovered a crack in the upper right (passenger side) engine mount. It runs from the front top near the weld almost half way to the back. There are 140 hours on the engine and all other mounts appear OK. Tim Shankland ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 14, 2010
From: Tim Shankland <tshankland(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Stratus engine mount
Larry, I have been trying to contact Mykal for a couple of days, I thought I would try a replacement before a repair. Do you know do the replacements have any of the changes you mentioned. Tim Larry McFarland wrote: > Hi Tim, > > The crack you mention is very common with that specific engine mount > adapter. I replaced mine much earlier. The fault lies with the length > of the gusset and the welder's failure to do a full weld around > > The end of the gusset. The crack mostly begins at the end of the > gusset where the stress is highest and the abrupt end of the weld > causes the beginning of a crack. Some have welded a strap across the > crack like a bridge after welding the crack back together and that > often seems to work . I built a new adapter which has a longer gusset > and it's been fine so far. If you mention this to Mykal at Stratus, > he'll send you a replacement. > > > > Regards, > > > > Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com > > > > From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim > Shankland > Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2010 3:30 PM > To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Stratus-List: Stratus engine mount > > > > Has anyone had any problems with the engine mounts supplied by Stratus > in my Zenith 601HD. During my annual I have discovered a crack in the > upper right (passenger side) engine mount. It runs from the front top > near the weld almost half way to the back. There are 140 hours on the > engine and all other mounts appear OK. > > Tim Shankland > > > > http://www.matro=================== > <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Stratus-List>http://forums.matronics.com > - List Contribution Web generous nbsp; --> > http://www.matronics.com/c= > > <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 14, 2010
From: Don Walker <d3dw(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: cooling
-=0AMy temps are usually very stable. Last weekend I flew down on the dec k over a =0Alake for about six miles, ambient temp about 75, and the engine temp went down =0Ato 170. When I climbed out and flew back home the temp w as right on 180, then =0Awould move quickly up and down about ten degrees.. .varying from about 170 to =0A190. I have never seen changes that quick.=0A >-=0A>this afternoon I took off at 180 degrees. On climbout I looked down and the =0A>engine temp was 150. When I leveled off it stabilized at 180. Then went down on =0A>descent, but while I rolled out and taxied back to th e hangar it went up to =0A>195.-It was having a tendency to stay too cool while flying.-I took off the =0A>belt, spun the water pump and it feels smooth and is quiet. does this sound like =0A>the thermostat? and have any of you replaced that thing or know where to get =0A>one?- don walker=0A> ======================0A>=0A> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 14, 2010
From: gary <gkrysztopik(at)satx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: cooling
Maybe more of an instrumentation problem? Check for intermittent wiring connection, bad ground. Can you install another sensor and gauge somewhere? Not cheap or easy, but neither is a new engine or airplane. Do you have other temp gauges (oil, cyl, etc)? Gary Krysztopik ZWheelz, LLC - www.ZWheelz.com Alamo City Electric Auto Association - www.aceaa.org blog - http://voices.mysanantonio.com/drive_electric_san_antonio/ San Antonio, TX On 10/14/2010 7:15 PM, Don Walker wrote: > > * * >> >> My temps are usually very stable. Last weekend I flew down on the >> deck over a lake for about six miles, ambient temp about 75, and the >> engine temp went down to 170. When I climbed out and flew back home >> the temp was right on 180, then would move quickly up and down about >> ten degrees...varying from about 170 to 190. I have never seen >> changes that quick. >> >> this afternoon I took off at 180 degrees. On climbout I looked down >> and the engine temp was 150. When I leveled off it stabilized at 180. >> Then went down on descent, but while I rolled out and taxied back to >> the hangar it went up to 195. It was having a tendency to stay too >> cool while flying. I took off the belt, spun the water pump and it >> feels smooth and is quiet. does this sound like the thermostat? and >> have any of you replaced that thing or know where to get one? don >> walker** >> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>*http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Stratus-L >> - tronics.com/" rel=nofollow target=_blank>http://forums.matronics.com >> <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Stratus-List>* >> > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 15, 2010
From: Bill Morelli <billvt(at)together.net>
Subject: Re: Stratus-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 10/14/10
Tim, If you go to my web page http://homepages.together.net/~billvt/ under construction, engine mount crack, you will see photos of the failure of my engine mount. I had mine repaired and reinforced as Larry said and I now have over 600 hours on the repaired mount with no further issues. Regards, Bill - N812BM - HDS - Stratus -----Original Message----- >From: Stratus-List Digest Server <stratus-list(at)matronics.com> >Sent: Oct 15, 2010 2:59 AM >To: Stratus-List Digest List >Subject: Stratus-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 10/14/10 > >* > > ================================================= > Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive > ================================================= > >Today's complete Stratus-List Digest can also be found in either of the >two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted >in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes >and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version >of the Stratus-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor >such as Notepad or with a web browser. > >HTML Version: > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 10-10-14&Archive=Stratus > >Text Version: > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 10-10-14&Archive=Stratus > > > =============================================== > EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive > =============================================== > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > Stratus-List Digest Archive > --- > Total Messages Posted Thu 10/14/10: 5 > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > >Today's Message Index: >---------------------- > > 1. 01:36 PM - Stratus engine mount (Tim Shankland) > 2. 03:01 PM - Re: Stratus engine mount (Larry McFarland) > 3. 03:12 PM - Re: Stratus engine mount (Tim Shankland) > 4. 05:20 PM - Re: cooling (Don Walker) > 5. 07:57 PM - Re: Re: cooling (gary) > > > >________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ > > >From: Tim Shankland <tshankland(at)sbcglobal.net> >Subject: Stratus-List: Stratus engine mount > >Has anyone had any problems with the engine mounts supplied by Stratus >in my Zenith 601HD. During my annual I have discovered a crack in the >upper right (passenger side) engine mount. It runs from the front top >near the weld almost half way to the back. There are 140 hours on the >engine and all other mounts appear OK. > >Tim Shankland > > >________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ > > >From: "Larry McFarland" <larry(at)macsmachine.com> >Subject: RE: Stratus-List: Stratus engine mount > >Hi Tim, > >The crack you mention is very common with that specific engine mount >adapter. I replaced mine much earlier. The fault lies with the length of >the gusset and the welder's failure to do a full weld around > >The end of the gusset. The crack mostly begins at the end of the gusset >where the stress is highest and the abrupt end of the weld causes the >beginning of a crack. Some have welded a strap across the crack like a >bridge after welding the crack back together and that often seems to work . >I built a new adapter which has a longer gusset and it's been fine so far. >If you mention this to Mykal at Stratus, he'll send you a replacement. > > >Regards, > > >Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com > > >From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Shankland >Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2010 3:30 PM >Subject: Stratus-List: Stratus engine mount > > >Has anyone had any problems with the engine mounts supplied by Stratus in my >Zenith 601HD. During my annual I have discovered a crack in the upper right >(passenger side) engine mount. It runs from the front top near the weld >almost half way to the back. There are 140 hours on the engine and all other >mounts appear OK. > >Tim Shankland > > >________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ > > >From: Tim Shankland <tshankland(at)sbcglobal.net> >Subject: Re: Stratus-List: Stratus engine mount > >Larry, >I have been trying to contact Mykal for a couple of days, I thought I >would try a replacement before a repair. Do you know do the replacements >have any of the changes you mentioned. >Tim >Larry McFarland wrote: > >> Hi Tim, >> >> The crack you mention is very common with that specific engine mount >> adapter. I replaced mine much earlier. The fault lies with the length >> of the gusset and the welder's failure to do a full weld around >> >> The end of the gusset. The crack mostly begins at the end of the >> gusset where the stress is highest and the abrupt end of the weld >> causes the beginning of a crack. Some have welded a strap across the >> crack like a bridge after welding the crack back together and that >> often seems to work . I built a new adapter which has a longer gusset >> and it's been fine so far. If you mention this to Mykal at Stratus, >> he'll send you a replacement. >> >> >> >> Regards, >> >> >> >> Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com >> >> >> >> From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim >> Shankland >> Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2010 3:30 PM >> To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: Stratus-List: Stratus engine mount >> >> >> >> Has anyone had any problems with the engine mounts supplied by Stratus >> in my Zenith 601HD. During my annual I have discovered a crack in the >> upper right (passenger side) engine mount. It runs from the front top >> near the weld almost half way to the back. There are 140 hours on the >> engine and all other mounts appear OK. >> >> Tim Shankland >> >> >> >> http://www.matro=================== >> <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Stratus-List>http://forums.matronics.com >> - List Contribution Web generous nbsp; --> >> http://www.matronics.com/c= >> >> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> >> >> > > >________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ > > >From: Don Walker <d3dw(at)sbcglobal.net> >Subject: Stratus-List: Re: cooling > >-=0AMy temps are usually very stable. Last weekend I flew down on the dec >k over a =0Alake for about six miles, ambient temp about 75, and the engine > temp went down =0Ato 170. When I climbed out and flew back home the temp w >as right on 180, then =0Awould move quickly up and down about ten degrees.. >.varying from about 170 to =0A190. I have never seen changes that quick.=0A >>-=0A>this afternoon I took off at 180 degrees. On climbout I looked down > and the =0A>engine temp was 150. When I leveled off it stabilized at 180. >Then went down on =0A>descent, but while I rolled out and taxied back to th >e hangar it went up to =0A>195.-It was having a tendency to stay too cool > while flying.-I took off the =0A>belt, spun the water pump and it feels >smooth and is quiet. does this sound like =0A>the thermostat? and have any >of you replaced that thing or know where to get =0A>one?- don walker=0A> >======================0A>=0A> > >________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ > > >From: gary <gkrysztopik(at)satx.rr.com> >Subject: Re: Stratus-List: Re: cooling > > Maybe more of an instrumentation problem? Check for intermittent >wiring connection, bad ground. Can you install another sensor and gauge >somewhere? Not cheap or easy, but neither is a new engine or airplane. >Do you have other temp gauges (oil, cyl, etc)? > >Gary Krysztopik >ZWheelz, LLC - www.ZWheelz.com >Alamo City Electric Auto Association - www.aceaa.org >blog - http://voices.mysanantonio.com/drive_electric_san_antonio/ >San Antonio, TX > > >On 10/14/2010 7:15 PM, Don Walker wrote: >> >> * * >>> >>> My temps are usually very stable. Last weekend I flew down on the >>> deck over a lake for about six miles, ambient temp about 75, and the >>> engine temp went down to 170. When I climbed out and flew back home >>> the temp was right on 180, then would move quickly up and down about >>> ten degrees...varying from about 170 to 190. I have never seen >>> changes that quick. >>> >>> this afternoon I took off at 180 degrees. On climbout I looked down >>> and the engine temp was 150. When I leveled off it stabilized at 180. >>> Then went down on descent, but while I rolled out and taxied back to >>> the hangar it went up to 195. It was having a tendency to stay too >>> cool while flying. I took off the belt, spun the water pump and it >>> feels smooth and is quiet. does this sound like the thermostat? and >>> have any of you replaced that thing or know where to get one? don >>> walker** >>> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>*http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Stratus-L >>> - tronics.com/" rel=nofollow target=_blank>http://forums.matronics.com >>> <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Stratus-List>* >>> >> * >> >> >> * > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 15, 2010
From: Don Walker <d3dw(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: cooling
This is the stock Stratus CHT fitting on the back of the right head. My oil temp =0Ais running steady at 170. I'll check the guage fitting today on th e CHT and the =0Awiring. After 11 years on this HDS maybe somethng is loose ...or corroded, but =0Aprobably not. I have another CHT I can use if necess ary.- don=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: gary <gk rysztopik(at)satx.rr.com>=0ATo: stratus-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Thu, Octobe r 14, 2010 9:55:36 PM=0ASubject: Re: Stratus-List: Re: cooling=0A=0AMaybe m ore of an instrumentation problem?- Check for intermittent wiring =0Aconn ection, bad ground.- Can you install another sensor and gauge somewhere? - =0ANot cheap or easy, but neither is a new engine or airplane.- Do yo u have other =0Atemp gauges (oil, cyl, etc)?- =0A=0A=0AGary Krysztopik ZW heelz, LLC - www.ZWheelz.com Alamo City Electric Auto =0AAssociation - www. aceaa.org blog - =0Ahttp://voices.mysanantonio.com/drive_electric_san_anton io/ San Antonio, TX =0A=0AOn 10/14/2010 7:15 PM, Don Walker wrote: =0A- =0A>My temps are usually very stable. Last weekend I flew down on the deck over a =0A>lake for about six miles, ambient temp about 75, and the engine temp went down =0A>to 170. When I climbed out and flew back home the temp w as right on 180, then =0A>would move quickly up and down about ten degrees. ..varying from about 170 to =0A>190. I have never seen changes that quick. =0A>>-=0A>>this afternoon I took off at 180 degrees. On climbout I looked down and the =0A>>engine temp was 150. When I leveled off it stabilized at 180. Then went down on =0A>>descent, but while I rolled out and taxied bac k to the hangar it went up to =0A>>195.-It was having a tendency to stay too cool while flying.-I took off the =0A>>belt, spun the water pump and it feels smooth and is quiet. does this sound like =0A>>the thermostat? and have any of you replaced that thing or know where to get =0A>>one?- don ================ =0A>> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 15, 2010
From: gary <gkrysztopik(at)satx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: cooling
I guess oil temp would be slower to change, and it could be a cylinder problem vs a whole engine problem (or instrumentation). Can you add egt's to see if it's fluctuating on one side and not the other? Another idea is to get an infrared temperature gun and tie the plane up and have somebody run it hard while you check each cylinder or keep it on the same cylinder and see if the infrared tracks the gauge. Gary Krysztopik On 10/15/2010 8:02 AM, Don Walker wrote: > This is the stock Stratus CHT fitting on the back of the right head. > My oil temp is running steady at 170. I'll check the guage fitting > today on the CHT and the wiring. After 11 years on this HDS maybe > somethng is loose...or corroded, but probably not. I have another CHT > I can use if necessary. don > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* gary > *To:* stratus-list(at)matronics.com > *Sent:* Thu, October 14, 2010 9:55:36 PM > *Subject:* Re: Stratus-List: Re: cooling > > Maybe more of an instrumentation problem? Check for intermittent > wiring connection, bad ground. Can you install another sensor and > gauge somewhere? Not cheap or easy, but neither is a new engine or > airplane. Do you have other temp gauges (oil, cyl, etc)? > Gary Krysztopik > ZWheelz, LLC -www.ZWheelz.com > Alamo City Electric Auto Association -www.aceaa.org > blog - http://voices.mysanantonio.com/drive_electric_san_antonio/ > San Antonio, TX > > On 10/14/2010 7:15 PM, Don Walker wrote: >> >> * * >>> >>> My temps are usually very stable. Last weekend I flew down on the >>> deck over a lake for about six miles, ambient temp about 75, and the >>> engine temp went down to 170. When I climbed out and flew back home >>> the temp was right on 180, then would move quickly up and down about >>> ten degrees...varying from about 170 to 190. I have never seen >>> changes that quick. >>> >>> this afternoon I took off at 180 degrees. On climbout I looked down >>> and the engine temp was 150. When I leveled off it stabilized at >>> 180. Then went down on descent, but while I rolled out and taxied >>> back to the hangar it went up to 195. It was having a tendency to >>> stay too cool while flying. I took off the belt, spun the water pump >>> and it feels smooth and is quiet. does this sound like the >>> thermostat? and have any of you replaced that thing or know where to >>> get one? don walker*http://www.matronics.co== * >>> > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 15, 2010
From: Tim Shankland <tshankland(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Stratus-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 10/14/10
Bill, Your crack is very similar to mine, I believe we have someone in my EAA chapter that is a good welder, I would weld it myself but I not sure I trust myself well enough. Tim Bill Morelli wrote: > >Tim, > >If you go to my web page > > http://homepages.together.net/~billvt/ > >under construction, engine mount crack, you will see photos of the failure of my engine mount. > >I had mine repaired and reinforced as Larry said and I now have over 600 hours on the repaired mount with no further issues. > >Regards, >Bill - N812BM - HDS - Stratus > > >-----Original Message----- > > >>From: Stratus-List Digest Server <stratus-list(at)matronics.com> >>Sent: Oct 15, 2010 2:59 AM >>To: Stratus-List Digest List >>Subject: Stratus-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 10/14/10 >> >>* >> >>================================================= >> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive >>================================================= >> >>Today's complete Stratus-List Digest can also be found in either of the >>two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted >>in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes >>and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version >>of the Stratus-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor >>such as Notepad or with a web browser. >> >>HTML Version: >> >> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 10-10-14&Archive=Stratus >> >>Text Version: >> >> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 10-10-14&Archive=Stratus >> >> >>=============================================== >> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive >>=============================================== >> >> >> ---------------------------------------------------------- >> Stratus-List Digest Archive >> --- >> Total Messages Posted Thu 10/14/10: 5 >> ---------------------------------------------------------- >> >> >>Today's Message Index: >>---------------------- >> >> 1. 01:36 PM - Stratus engine mount (Tim Shankland) >> 2. 03:01 PM - Re: Stratus engine mount (Larry McFarland) >> 3. 03:12 PM - Re: Stratus engine mount (Tim Shankland) >> 4. 05:20 PM - Re: cooling (Don Walker) >> 5. 07:57 PM - Re: Re: cooling (gary) >> >> >> >>________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ >> >> >>From: Tim Shankland <tshankland(at)sbcglobal.net> >>Subject: Stratus-List: Stratus engine mount >> >>Has anyone had any problems with the engine mounts supplied by Stratus >>in my Zenith 601HD. During my annual I have discovered a crack in the >>upper right (passenger side) engine mount. It runs from the front top >>near the weld almost half way to the back. There are 140 hours on the >>engine and all other mounts appear OK. >> >>Tim Shankland >> >> >>________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ >> >> >>From: "Larry McFarland" <larry(at)macsmachine.com> >>Subject: RE: Stratus-List: Stratus engine mount >> >>Hi Tim, >> >>The crack you mention is very common with that specific engine mount >>adapter. I replaced mine much earlier. The fault lies with the length of >>the gusset and the welder's failure to do a full weld around >> >>The end of the gusset. The crack mostly begins at the end of the gusset >>where the stress is highest and the abrupt end of the weld causes the >>beginning of a crack. Some have welded a strap across the crack like a >>bridge after welding the crack back together and that often seems to work . >>I built a new adapter which has a longer gusset and it's been fine so far. >>If you mention this to Mykal at Stratus, he'll send you a replacement. >> >> >>Regards, >> >> >>Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com >> >> >>From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com >>[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Shankland >>Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2010 3:30 PM >>Subject: Stratus-List: Stratus engine mount >> >> >>Has anyone had any problems with the engine mounts supplied by Stratus in my >>Zenith 601HD. During my annual I have discovered a crack in the upper right >>(passenger side) engine mount. It runs from the front top near the weld >>almost half way to the back. There are 140 hours on the engine and all other >>mounts appear OK. >> >>Tim Shankland >> >> >>________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ >> >> >>From: Tim Shankland <tshankland(at)sbcglobal.net> >>Subject: Re: Stratus-List: Stratus engine mount >> >>Larry, >>I have been trying to contact Mykal for a couple of days, I thought I >>would try a replacement before a repair. Do you know do the replacements >>have any of the changes you mentioned. >>Tim >>Larry McFarland wrote: >> >> >> >>>Hi Tim, >>> >>>The crack you mention is very common with that specific engine mount >>>adapter. I replaced mine much earlier. The fault lies with the length >>>of the gusset and the welder's failure to do a full weld around >>> >>>The end of the gusset. The crack mostly begins at the end of the >>>gusset where the stress is highest and the abrupt end of the weld >>>causes the beginning of a crack. Some have welded a strap across the >>>crack like a bridge after welding the crack back together and that >>>often seems to work . I built a new adapter which has a longer gusset >>>and it's been fine so far. If you mention this to Mykal at Stratus, >>>he'll send you a replacement. >>> >>> >>> >>>Regards, >>> >>> >>> >>>Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com >>> >>> >>> >>>From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com >>>[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim >>>Shankland >>>Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2010 3:30 PM >>>To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com >>>Subject: Stratus-List: Stratus engine mount >>> >>> >>> >>>Has anyone had any problems with the engine mounts supplied by Stratus >>>in my Zenith 601HD. During my annual I have discovered a crack in the >>>upper right (passenger side) engine mount. It runs from the front top >>>near the weld almost half way to the back. There are 140 hours on the >>>engine and all other mounts appear OK. >>> >>>Tim Shankland >>> >>> >>> >>>http://www.matro=================== >>><http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Stratus-List>http://forums.matronics.com >>>- List Contribution Web generous nbsp; --> >>>http://www.matronics.com/c= >>> >>> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ >> >> >>From: Don Walker <d3dw(at)sbcglobal.net> >>Subject: Stratus-List: Re: cooling >> >>-=0AMy temps are usually very stable. Last weekend I flew down on the dec >>k over a =0Alake for about six miles, ambient temp about 75, and the engine >>temp went down =0Ato 170. When I climbed out and flew back home the temp w >>as right on 180, then =0Awould move quickly up and down about ten degrees.. >>.varying from about 170 to =0A190. I have never seen changes that quick.=0A >> >> >>>-=0A>this afternoon I took off at 180 degrees. On climbout I looked down >>> >>> >>and the =0A>engine temp was 150. When I leveled off it stabilized at 180. >>Then went down on =0A>descent, but while I rolled out and taxied back to th >>e hangar it went up to =0A>195.-It was having a tendency to stay too cool >>while flying.-I took off the =0A>belt, spun the water pump and it feels >>smooth and is quiet. does this sound like =0A>the thermostat? and have any >>of you replaced that thing or know where to get =0A>one?- don walker=0A> >>======================0A>=0A> >> >>________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ >> >> >>From: gary <gkrysztopik(at)satx.rr.com> >>Subject: Re: Stratus-List: Re: cooling >> >> Maybe more of an instrumentation problem? Check for intermittent >>wiring connection, bad ground. Can you install another sensor and gauge >>somewhere? Not cheap or easy, but neither is a new engine or airplane. >>Do you have other temp gauges (oil, cyl, etc)? >> >>Gary Krysztopik >>ZWheelz, LLC - www.ZWheelz.com >>Alamo City Electric Auto Association - www.aceaa.org >>blog - http://voices.mysanantonio.com/drive_electric_san_antonio/ >>San Antonio, TX >> >> >>On 10/14/2010 7:15 PM, Don Walker wrote: >> >> >>>* * >>> >>> >>>>My temps are usually very stable. Last weekend I flew down on the >>>>deck over a lake for about six miles, ambient temp about 75, and the >>>>engine temp went down to 170. When I climbed out and flew back home >>>>the temp was right on 180, then would move quickly up and down about >>>>ten degrees...varying from about 170 to 190. I have never seen >>>>changes that quick. >>>> >>>>this afternoon I took off at 180 degrees. On climbout I looked down >>>>and the engine temp was 150. When I leveled off it stabilized at 180. >>>>Then went down on descent, but while I rolled out and taxied back to >>>>the hangar it went up to 195. It was having a tendency to stay too >>>>cool while flying. I took off the belt, spun the water pump and it >>>>feels smooth and is quiet. does this sound like the thermostat? and >>>>have any of you replaced that thing or know where to get one? don >>>>walker** >>>><http://www.matronics.com/contribution>*http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Stratus-L >>>>- tronics.com/" rel=nofollow target=_blank>http://forums.matronics.com >>>><http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Stratus-List>* >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>* >>> >>> >>>* >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry McFarland" <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Subject: Re: cooling
Date: Oct 15, 2010
Hi Don, The oddity that this particular thermostat is suggests you call Mykal at Stratus. Any really quick temp changes would seem to be sensor or possibly gage problems. Actual readings can move 10 to 15 degrees in the span of a couple of minutes due to oil attitude in the pan, but quicker than that, I'd be looking at replacing the sensor and doubling the gage for comparison. Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don Walker Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2010 7:16 PM Subject: Stratus-List: Re: cooling My temps are usually very stable. Last weekend I flew down on the deck over a lake for about six miles, ambient temp about 75, and the engine temp went down to 170. When I climbed out and flew back home the temp was right on 180, then would move quickly up and down about ten degrees...varying from about 170 to 190. I have never seen changes that quick. this afternoon I took off at 180 degrees. On climbout I looked down and the engine temp was 150. When I leveled off it stabilized at 180. Then went down on descent, but while I rolled out and taxied back to the hangar it went up to 195. It was having a tendency to stay too cool while flying. I took off the belt, spun the water pump and it feels smooth and is quiet. does this sound like the thermostat? and have any of you replaced that thing or know where to get one? don walkerhttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Stratus-L <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Stratus-List> - tronics.com/" rel=nofollow target=_blank>http://forums.matronics.com - List Contribution sp; ====== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry McFarland" <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Subject: Stratus engine mount
Date: Oct 15, 2010
The replacement I received originally had no changes, so I made one myself. I think in retrospect, the best solution would be to grind and re-weld the crack and add the cross bar reinforcement. I donated the one I received to a friend that also had his crack at 65 hours. In weld repair, I'd suggest you get someone that has good skills at TIG welding or oxyacetylene welding so as to not spread too much heat into the part. This is a very safe repair if done carefully. Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Shankland Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2010 5:11 PM Subject: Re: Stratus-List: Stratus engine mount Larry, I have been trying to contact Mykal for a couple of days, I thought I would try a replacement before a repair. Do you know do the replacements have any of the changes you mentioned. Tim Larry McFarland wrote: Hi Tim, The crack you mention is very common with that specific engine mount adapter. I replaced mine much earlier. The fault lies with the length of the gusset and the welder's failure to do a full weld around The end of the gusset. The crack mostly begins at the end of the gusset where the stress is highest and the abrupt end of the weld causes the beginning of a crack. Some have welded a strap across the crack like a bridge after welding the crack back together and that often seems to work . I built a new adapter which has a longer gusset and it's been fine so far. If you mention this to Mykal at Stratus, he'll send you a replacement. Regards, Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Shankland Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2010 3:30 PM Subject: Stratus-List: Stratus engine mount Has anyone had any problems with the engine mounts supplied by Stratus in my Zenith 601HD. During my annual I have discovered a crack in the upper right (passenger side) engine mount. It runs from the front top near the weld almost half way to the back. There are 140 hours on the engine and all other mounts appear OK. Tim Shankland http://www.matro================== <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Stratus-List> http://forums.matronics.com - List Contribution Web generous nbsp; --> http://www.matronics.com/c= <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> face="courier new,courier" size="2">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Stratus-List ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 16, 2010
From: Don Walker <d3dw(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Stratus and Zenith shock cords
Have any of you guys used the 1080 HD- shock cord to replace the 1080 sin ce the =0AStratus is a little heavier than the Rotax? How is that working f or you. I was =0Awondering if it would be too stiff.- My old 1080s really are soft now...they =0Agotta go.- don=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A____________________ --------------- -Matt Dralle, List Admin.=0A> =======0A>>>=0A>>> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry McFarland" <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Subject: Stratus and Zenith shock cords
Date: Oct 16, 2010
Hi Don, Those are what I used on my HDS/Subaru and they bring the cap gap back to 3/16 inch. Smooth as the previous ones and it's been 2 years since they were changed out. Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don Walker Sent: Saturday, October 16, 2010 8:30 PM Subject: Stratus-List: Stratus and Zenith shock cords Have any of you guys used the 1080 HD shock cord to replace the 1080 since the Stratus is a little heavier than the Rotax? How is that working for you. I was wondering if it would be too stiff. My old 1080s really are soft now...they gotta go. don _____ _____ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: PLEASE READ - List Fund Raiser Kickoff!
Dear Listers, Each November I hold a PBS-like fund raiser to support the continued operation and upgrade of the List services at Matronics. It's solely through the Contributions of List members that these Matronics Lists are possible. There is NO advertising to support the Lists. You might have noticed the conspicuous lack of flashing banners and annoying pop-ups on the Matronics Email List email messages and web site pages including: * Matronics List Forums http://forums.matronics.com * Matronics List List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com * Matronics List Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search * Matronics List Browser http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse You don't find advertising on any of these pages because I believe in a List experience that is completely about the sport we all enjoy - namely Airplanes and not about annoying advertisements. During the month of November I will be sending out List messages every couple of days reminding everyone that the Fund Raiser is underway. I ask for your patience and understanding during the Fund Raiser and throughout these regular messages. The Fund Raiser is only financial support mechanism I have to pay all of the bills associated with running these Lists. Your personal Contribution counts! Once again, this year I've got a terrific line up of free gifts to go along with the various Contribution levels. Most all of these gifts have been provided by some of the vary members and vendors that you'll find on Matronics Lists and have been either donated or provided at substantially discounted rates. This year, these generous people include: * Bob Nuckolls of the AeroElectric Connection http://www.aeroelectric.com * Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore http://www.buildersbooks.com * Jon Croke of HomebuiltHELP http://www.homebuilthelp.com These are extremely generous guys and I encourage you to visit their respective web sites. Each one offers a unique and very useful aviation-related product line. I would like publicly to thank Bob, Andy, and Jon for their generous support of the Lists again this year!! You can make your List Contribution using any one of three secure methods including using a credit card, PayPal, or by personal check. All three methods afford you the opportunity to select one of this year's free gifts with a qualifying Contribution amount!! To make your Contribution, please visit the secure site below: http://www.matronics.com/contribution I would like to thank everyone in advance for their generous financial AND moral support over the years! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator RV-8 Builder and Flyer ________________________________________________________________________________
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From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: November List Fund Raiser
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Date: Nov 05, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Reminder
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From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists
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From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Coming Soon - The List of Contributors - Please Make A Contribution
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From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Please Support The Lists...
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Date: Nov 13, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Please Make A Contribution...
Dear Listers, A quick reminder that November is the annual List Fund Raiser. The Matronics Lists are 100% member supported and all of the operational costs are provided for my your Contributions during this time of the year. Your personal Contribution makes a big difference and keeps all of the Matronics Email Lists and Forums completely ad-free. Please make your Contribution today to keep these services up and running! http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you in advance! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: List Fund Raiser & Some Very Nice Comments...
Dear Listers, I've been getting some really nice comments from Listers along with their List Support Contributions. I've shared some of them below. Please read them over and see what your fellow Listers think of the Lists and Forums. Please make a Contribution today to support the continued upgrade and operation of these services. There are lots of sweet gifts available, so browse the extensive selection and pickup a nice item along with your qualifying Contribution. Contribution Web Site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or drop a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 Thank you in advance for your generous support! It is very much appreciated! Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ------------------------------------------------------- You are providing a great service. Thanks so very much. David L Keep up the good work! A great website - wish I'd found it earlier! Bob S Thanks for providing a site for information. Jim S Thanks again for providing a great service to our community! Alex M Thanks and keep up the good work! Robert B. Great forum! David S Thanks for providing the Kolb List for the last 12 years. John H Long time lurker, it's a great resource...many thanks. Ian C Your work and effort are greatly appreciated. Nicolas L Thank you very much for keeping the list going! Svein J Thank you for your support to the community. Valin T I am a long time subscriber and a slow builder because of work and two moves, but still enjoy the process and your list. CL M Thanks for providing this service. It can't be beat! Thomas W I'm no longer a builder or flier but I like to keep in touch with the List - which is the best organised list I've seen on the Internet. Gerry C Matt, you are doing a GREAT service to the community of KOLB Builders and Flyers. John B I've been flying for almost two years and still find these Lists as a great resource for information.....now I get to answer a question once-in-a-while too. Ralph C Thanks for this great service. Dale E I couldn't keep on building without the support I get from this List. Thomas S This is a great service to all of us. Michael W I am no longer actively building, but I really like to keep up with what's going on, and I especially like to follow Bob Nuckolls - and your RV-8. Terrence W I really appreciate your work and consider the lists to be a great value. Christopher R Thanks Matt for a great resource! Geoff T Many thanks for providing this service. I love it. William V One of the best Internet Deals going... Owen B Thanks for the great site. Danny S A valuable resource. George A Thanks for running a great list. Ted P ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: What's My Contribution Used For?
Dear Listers, Some have asked, "What's my Contribution used for?" and that's a good question. Here are just a few examples of what your direct List support enables. It provides for the very expensive, commercial-grade T1 Internet connection used on the List insuring maximum performance and minimal contention when accessing List services. It pays for the regular system hardware and software upgrades enabling the highest performance possible for services such as the Archive Search Engine, List Browser, and Forums. It pays for narly 20 years (yeah, I really said *20* years) worth of online archive data available for instant random search and access. And, it offsets the many hours spent writing, developing, and maintaining the custom applications that power this List Service such as the List Browse, Search Engine, Forums, and Wiki. But most importantly, your List Contribution enables a forum where you and your peers can communicate freely in an environment that is free from moderation, censorship, advertising, commercialism, SPAM, and computer viruses. How many places on the Internet can you make all those statements these days? It is YOUR CONTRIBUTION that directly enables these many aspects of these valuable List services. Please support it today with your List Contribution. Its one of the best investments you can make in your Sport... List Contribution Web Site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or drop a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 Thank you for your support! Matt Dralle Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 19, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Just A Few Days Left; Well Behind Last Year...
Dear Listers, There are just a few more days left of this year's List Fund Raiser. Response has been good so far, but we're well behind last year at this point. If you've been waiting until the last minute to make your Contribution, now might be good time to show your support and maybe pick up a nice gift as well! Please remember that there is no commercial advertising on these Lists and the *only* means of keeping them running is through your Contributions during this Fund Raiser. If it weren't for your individual Contributions, these Lists could easily become economically infeasible and simply cease to exist. You probably can't even take the family out to dinner for $20 these days, but your individual Contribution of the same amount makes a huge difference in keeping the List services alive. Please make a Contribution today with a Credit Card or Paypal: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, drop a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Make Sure You're Listed! List of Contributors Published
in December! Dear Listers, The List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner! In December I post a list of everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation for the Lists. Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming LOC? Tell others that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is fast and easy using your Visa, MasterCard, or Paypal account: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, drop a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 USA I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus far during this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps these Lists running and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about how the Lists have helped you! Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Contributions Down By 17%...
Dear Listers, As of today, Contributions to the Matronics List Fund Raiser are lagging behind last year at this time by roughly 17%. I have a Fund Raiser each year simply to cover my operating costs for the Lists. I *do not* accept any advertising income to support the Lists and rely solely on the Contributions of members to keep the expenses paid. I run all of my own servers and they are housed here locally, and the Internet connection is a commercial-grade, T1 connection with public address space. I also maintain a full backup system that does nightly backups of all List-related data so that in the event of a server crash or worse, all of the Lists and the many years of List archive data could be restored onto a new server in a matter of hours. All of this costs a fair amount of money, not to mention a significant amount of my personal time. I have a Fund Raiser each year to cover these costs and I ask that members that feel they receive a benefit from my investments make a modest Contribution each year to support the continued operation and upgrade of these services. If you enjoy the Lists, please make a Contribution today. I also offer some incentive gifts for larger Contribution levels. At the Contribution Web Wite, you can use a credit card, Paypal, or personal check to show your support for the continuation of these services: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, drop a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 USA Thank you for your support! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 24, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Just A Few More Days To Make Your List Contribution...
There is less than a week left in this year's List Fund Raiser and only a few short days to grab one of the great Contribution Gifts available this year. Support is still significantly lagging behind last year at this point but hopefully it will pick up here towards the end. Please remember that it is solely the Contributions of List members that keeps the Lists up and running as there is no commercialism or advertising on the Matronics Lists and Forums. The List Contribution web site is secure, fast, and easy and you can use a credit card, Paypal, or a personal check: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, drop a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 USA I want to thank everyone that has already made a generous contribution to support the Lists! Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics EMail List and Forum Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 25, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: What Are You Thankful For...?
Dear Listers, Here in the United States, Thursday is our National day of Thanksgiving. Many of us will be traveling to be with our families and friends to share in generous feasts of plenty and giving thanks for the many blessings that have been bestowed upon us. Many Listers have expressed over the last couple of weeks how thankful they are for the Email Lists and Forums here on the Matronics servers and for all of the assistance and comradery they have experienced being a part of the Lists. One of my favorite comments is when someone writes to me and says something like, "Its the first thing I do in the morning while I'm having my morning coffee!". That's a wonderful tribute to the purpose and function of these Lists. Its always great to hear I'm not the only one that jumps out of bed each morning to check my List email!! Won't you take a minute today and show your appreciation for these Lists and for their continued operation and upgrade? The List Contribution Site is: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, drop a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 USA Thank you in advance for your kind consideration, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 27, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: No "Black Friday" For List Fund Raiser...
Dear Listers, Curiously, even though the number of List subscriptions are significantly up this year, support during this year's Fund Raiser is still substantially behind last year. There are only a couple more days left in November and the end of the Fund Raiser is quickly approaching. I have always preferred a non-commercial List experience as many, many members have also expressed that they do as well. However, if the yearly fund raiser cannot generate sufficient funds to keep the bills paid, other sources of income might be required including some sort of advertising. Please don't let that happen! Your personal Contribution of $20 or $30 goes a long ways to keeping the operation a float. Please make sure your name is on this year's List of Contributors published in December. The Contribution site is secure, quick, and easy: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, drop a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 USA Thank you in advance for your support! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 28, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Just Three Days Left & Some Very Nice Comments...
Dear Listers, There are just three days left in this year's List Fund Raiser. Won't you take a monment and make a quick Contribution today to support the continued upgrade and operation of these Forum services. I've received some more really nice comments from Listers along with their List Support Contributions, and I've share a few below. There are some sweet gifts available this year, so browse the selections and pickup a nice item along with your qualifying Contribution. Contribution Web Site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or drop a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 USA Thank you in advance for your generous support! It is very much appreciated! Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ------------------------------------------------------- Great resource, keep it coming... Marten V. Thanks for maintaining these essential lists! Rumen D. Great Service! Douglas D. Thanks for this great service! Peter T. Thanks for your enduring support of homebuilding communications! Daniel M. You do a great job and provide a valuable service. Mark B. It's really a great source I have used a lot. Robert K. Reading the RV-10 list is part of my morning routine... Perry C. Great job running these lists. Edward T. Thanks for doing a tough job. Mic T. Your List was such a great resource for me when I built in "98". Ron V. Its a very useful forum. Dave F. Really enjoy your list... William D. Great service, Gerald T. The list still is a valuable source of information and there are many worthwhile postings. Graham H. The list has seen me through an RV-9A, RV-10, and now an RV-12. Albert G. Thanks for a great resource! Barry H. Thank you for maintaining this excellent site. Bill W. The Matronics Email list are an invaluable service. William C. I appreciate the RV-10 list. Vijay P. Thanks for a great list and all of the work you do. Ian W. Thanks for keeping up this very useful list. George R. The list is excellent and I find it very handy for any problems I come up against during construction. Greg W. The lists are an important part of my day. I've met lots of people and made lots of friends. Dave S. It's really a great source I haved used a lot. Robert K. I read the Pietenpol List everyday. PF B. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Make Sure You're Listed!
Dear Listers, The List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner with just two more days in this year's Fund Raiser! Later in December I will post a list of everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists this year. Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation for the Lists. Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming LOC? Tell others that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is fast and easy using your Visa, MasterCard, or Paypal account: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus far during this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps these Lists running and improving! Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: [Please Read] - Last Official Day of List Fund Raiser!
Dear Listers, Its November 30th and that means at least two things. For better or worse, its my 47th birthday! But it also means that its that last official day of the Matronics Email List Fund Raiser! If you been drooling over one of the really nice gifts that are available this year with a qualifying Contribution, then now is the time to jump on one!! If you've been meaning to make a Contribution this month but have been putting it off for some reason, NOW is the time! I will be posting the List of Contributors in a few days, so you'll probably want to be known as a person that supported the Lists! I want to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution this year in support of our Lists. It is your generosity that keeps this operation running and I don't ever forget it. Hopefully everyone feels the same. The List Contribution Web Site is fast and easy. Please support our habit by making your Contribution right now: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 Thank you to all in advance! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 02, 2010
From: gary <gkrysztopik(at)satx.rr.com>
Subject: Stratus2000 oil seal
Mikal, I put the Matronics Stratus list on copy here too. I have a year 2000 Stratus EA-81 (single belt, dual ignition). It's been an outstanding engine, I've been flying it in my Pelican since 2003. But, this is the fourth time that oil starts weeping from the drive. It starts with a drop or two, then slowly gets worse. It seems to be the main seal since after I replace it, it's clean (for a while). There is a groove worn in the aluminum bushing/spacer that the seal rides on. I replaced the seal, then moved the seal out 1/8" to get a new spot to seal on, and then tried a stainless steel slip-over seal surface. It seems a good fix might be to make a hardened steel spacer but it's expensive to make just one. Have you come up with a fix? Is there anything that I can do? -- Gary Krysztopik ZWheelz, LLC - www.ZWheelz.com Alamo City Electric Auto Association - www.aceaa.org blog - http://voices.mysanantonio.com/drive_electric_san_antonio/ San Antonio, TX ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 2010
From: dale clark <clark.dale(at)att.net>
Subject: Re: Stratus-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 12/02/10
I am having the exact same problem, has anyone out there come up with a sol ution? --- On Thu, 12/2/10, Stratus-List Digest Server wrote: From: Stratus-List Digest Server <stratus-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: Stratus-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 12/02/10 Date: Thursday, December 2, 2010, 10:59 PM * ======================== ---Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive ======================== Today's complete Stratus-List Digest can also be found in either of the two Web Links listed below.- The .html file includes the Digest formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes and Message Navigation.- The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version of the Stratus-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser. HTML Version: - - http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View =html&Chapter 10-12-02&Archive=Stratus Text Version: - - http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View =txt&Chapter 10-12-02&Archive=Stratus ====================== ---EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive ====================== - - - - ----------------------------------------------------- -------- - - - - - - - - - - - - ---Stratus-List Diges t Archive - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - --- - - - - - - - - - ---Total Messages Posted Thu 12/0 2/10: 1 - - - - ----------------------------------------------------- -------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- - ---1. 08:34 PM - Stratus2000 oil seal- (gary) ________________________________- Message 1- __________________________ ___________ From: gary <gkrysztopik(at)satx.rr.com> Subject: Stratus-List: Stratus2000 oil seal Mikal, I put the Matronics Stratus list on copy here too. I have a year 2000 Stratus EA-81 (single belt, dual ignition).- It's been an outstanding engine, I've been flying it in my Pelican since 2003. But, this is the fourth time that oil starts weeping from the drive.- It starts with a drop or two, then slowly gets worse.- It seems to be the main seal since after I replace it, it's clean (for a while).- There is a groove worn in the aluminum bushing/spacer that the seal rides on.- I replaced the seal, then moved the seal out 1/8" to get a new spot to seal on, and then tried a stainless steel slip-over seal surface. It seems a good fix might be to make a hardened steel spacer but it's expensive to make just one.- Have you come up with a fix?- Is there anything that I can do? -- Gary Krysztopik ZWheelz, LLC - www.ZWheelz.com Alamo City Electric Auto Association - www.aceaa.org blog - http://voices.mysanantonio.com/drive_electric_san_antonio/ San Antonio, TX le, List Admin. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 14, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: 2010 List of Contributors
Dear Listers, The 2010 Matronics Email List and Forum Fund Raiser officially ended a couple of weeks ago and its time that I publish this year's List of Contributors. Its the people on this list that directly make the Email Lists and Forums possible. Their generous contributions keep the servers and Internet connection up and running. You can still show your support this year and pick up a great gift at the same time. The Contribution Web Site is fast, easy, and secure: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 I also want to thank Bob, Jon, and Andy for their generous support through the supply of great gifts this year!! These guys have some great products and I encourage you to visit their respective web sites: Bob Nucklolls - AeroElectric - www.aeroelectric.com Jon Croke - HomebuiltHELP - www.homebuilthelp.com Andy Gold - The Builder's Bookstore - www.buildersbooks.com And finally, I'm proud to present The 2010 Fund Raiser List of Contributors: http://www.matronics.com/loc/2010.html Thanks again to everyone that made a Contribution this year!! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 27, 2011
From: Bill Steer <steerr(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Bad ignition
Hello. I have the EA-81 engine with dual ignition on my 601HD. It has about six hours on it. Since the very beginning, the engine would not start when running on the primary ignition (through the distributor). It has always started on the secondary ignition. Until recently, I could start it on the secondary ignition and then switch to the primary, where it ran ok. Now, if I switch to the primary ignition, the engine dies. I've checked everything I know how to check. The ignition wires are ok, the coil selector is ok, and there's power to the distributor (through the black wire). Can anybody suggest other tests I can run to track down the problem? Thanks very much for any help you can give me. Bill Steer ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry McFarland" <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Subject: Bad ignition
Date: Feb 27, 2011
Bill, The second flight in my 601HDS was interrupted by a failed solid state primary ignition pickup at the flywheel. The other regular distributor ignition worked fine. I found the ignition pickup at the flywheel had quit and Mykal replaced it for free. Haven't had problems since. His contention was that the part was soldered with too much heat and caused the problem. Sounds like your ignition might be a thermal problem found at that part. If you are using Nippon Denso ignition and both are timed thru the distributor, you might check out play in the distributor shaft. I'd recommend you look at using NAPA TP45 modules and IC107 coils. The TP45 is bullet proof. IC107 coils are different from the cylindrical type, but they are very dependable. Messenger recommends Standard LX600 for distributor pickups as they allow a lower cranking rpm for firing. If you need advance springs in the distributor, the P/N is #49172 9002. I try to keep a spare set of parts for the ignition system so they might be swapped out when something goes amiss. Haynes Automotive Repair Manual for the Subaru 1600 & 1800 1980 thru 1994 #89003 (681) has a very comprehensive guide and illustrative of the multitude of distributors Used on the Subaru and describes rather well the process for checking out ignition problems. Hope this is helpful. Larry McFarland 601HDS at macsmachine.com EA81 at 150 hours. -----Original Message----- From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Steer Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2011 11:19 AM Subject: [Probable Spam] Stratus-List: Bad ignition Hello. I have the EA-81 engine with dual ignition on my 601HD. It has about six hours on it. Since the very beginning, the engine would not start when running on the primary ignition (through the distributor). It has always started on the secondary ignition. Until recently, I could start it on the secondary ignition and then switch to the primary, where it ran ok. Now, if I switch to the primary ignition, the engine dies. I've checked everything I know how to check. The ignition wires are ok, the coil selector is ok, and there's power to the distributor (through the black wire). Can anybody suggest other tests I can run to track down the problem? Thanks very much for any help you can give me. Bill Steer ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com>
Date: Feb 27, 2011
Subject: Bad ignition
Bill, It is almost certain that your ignitor module inside the distributor has di ed. These things are notoriously feeble. The worse thing is replacements ar e about $300!! Ok that was the bad news. The good news is you can rework this to hookup a TP45 module like Larry Mentioned. What you do is open up the distributor. Inside you will find a pick up modu le ( the part that sits next to the shaft)..This is wire to the ignitor mod ule on the outside of the distributor. You cut the two wires leading from the pick up module to the ignitor..throw the ignitor away. Extend the two wires from the pickup by soldering a flying lead that will b e long enough to reach the firwall. This is where you will mount the TP45 i gnitor..I believe it's a GM part..Napa has them. You thin wire up everything as shown on this drawing I will attach..Hopeful ly it will come thru. You can even mount to pickups in the distributor and run two TP45 modules.. This is what this drawing shows..But of course that is more work, but if th e Stratus second ignition dies, that is the way to go. Good luck, once you have gone thru this pain you will have a bulletproof ig nition. Note I found that at first the system would not work. Then I swappe d the pickup to the TP45 connections and everything fired up. Airplane has been running with this setup for several years. Frank Cell/Mobile +1 541 602 8756 Tel +1 541 715 7568 -----Original Message----- From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-se rver(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry McFarland Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2011 1:37 PM Subject: RE: [Probable Spam] Stratus-List: Bad ignition m> Bill, The second flight in my 601HDS was interrupted by a failed solid state primary ignition pickup at the flywheel. The other regular distributor ignition worked fine. I found the ignition pickup at the flywheel had quit and Mykal replaced it for free. Haven't had problems since. His contention was that the part was soldered with too much heat and caused the problem. Sounds like your ignition might be a thermal problem found at that part. If you are using Nippon Denso ignition and both are timed thru the distributor, you might check out play in the distributor shaft. I'd recommend you look at using NAPA TP45 module s and IC107 coils. The TP45 is bullet proof. IC107 coils are different from the cylindrical type, but they are very dependable. Messenger recommends Standard LX600 for distributor pickups as they allow a lower cranking rpm for firing. If you need advance springs in the distributor, the P/N is #49172 9002. I try to keep a spare set of parts for the ignition system so they might be swapped out when something goes amiss. Haynes Automotive Repair Manual for the Subaru 1600 & 1800 1980 thru 1994 #89003 (681) has a very comprehensive guide and illustrative of the multitude of distributors Used on the Subaru and describes rather well the process for checking out ignition problems. Hope this is helpful. Larry McFarland 601HDS at macsmachine.com EA81 at 150 hours. -----Original Message----- From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Steer Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2011 11:19 AM Subject: [Probable Spam] Stratus-List: Bad ignition Hello. I have the EA-81 engine with dual ignition on my 601HD. It has about six hours on it. Since the very beginning, the engine would not star t when running on the primary ignition (through the distributor). It has always started on the secondary ignition. Until recently, I could start it on the secondary ignition and then switch to the primary, where it ran ok. Now, if I switch to the primary ignition, the engine dies. I've checked everything I know how to check. The ignition wires are ok, th e coil selector is ok, and there's power to the distributor (through the blac k wire). Can anybody suggest other tests I can run to track down the problem ? Thanks very much for any help you can give me. Bill Steer ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 28, 2011
From: Bill Steer <steerr(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Bad ignition
Thanks again, Paul and Frank. I Google'd for "Dual dizzy" or some similar phrase, and found a rather detailed article. The part that concerned me was that it looked like some fairly precise machining was necessary on the plate. I think I'll go with the single for now. Bill On 2/27/2011 10:20 PM, Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis) wrote: > --> Stratus-List message posted by: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" > > Thanks paul..yes your mod worked well on my airplane. > > One correction though..The pickup "Should" be fine in this case..I.e its usually the amplifier chip that goes belly-up, but the pickup itself is usually just fine. > > This is good news because the ignitor chip is the easy part to replace with a TP45, for $30 or so. > > Cheers > > Frank > Cell/Mobile +1 541 602 8756 > Tel +1 541 715 7568 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul > Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2011 7:09 PM > To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: Stratus-List: Bad ignition > > --> Stratus-List message posted by: "Paul" > > I suspect its my document. Its on a web site (I forgot which) but I can send > a copy to any who want one. > > If you only need a single ign then its eaven simpler just replace the pickup > using the already there screws and holes. > > Paul >>> >>> >>> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry McFarland" <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Subject: Bracket for the mounted solid state ignition
Date: Mar 14, 2011
Hi Guys, I visited the hangar to do a preflight this afternoon and a friend found my Stratus solid state ignition bracket was cracked and there was a lot of flex in it. Two 8.8 mm bolts holding the rectangular box to the engine were the only thing keeping it from dropping off. I loosened the bolts and removed the bracket in two pieces. The .080 steel bracket would have been stout enough, but the bolted flanges were cut square and cracks began there. I removed the safety wire and electric connections and took the bracket home. I remade an .080 bracket that has no corners or sharp edges. I put some high temp silver paint on it and hung it out for reassembly tomorrow. I think I'm probably the 10th person that has had this bracket crack in this way. Time to look carefully at yours, especially if you have but one ignition. Fly safe guys, Larry McFarland Stratus powered 601HDS with 156 hours at www.macsmachine.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 14, 2011
From: gary <gkrysztopik(at)satx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Bracket for the mounted solid state ignition
yup, mine cracked years ago right on the sharp inside corner. Gary Krysztopik ZWheelz, LLC - www.ZWheelz.com Alamo City Electric Auto Association - www.aceaa.org blog - http://voices.mysanantonio.com/drive_electric_san_antonio/ San Antonio, TX On 3/14/2011 7:41 PM, Larry McFarland wrote: > > Hi Guys, > > I visited the hangar to do a preflight this afternoon and a friend > found my Stratus solid state ignition bracket was cracked and there > was a lot of flex in it. > > Two 8.8 mm bolts holding the rectangular box to the engine were the > only thing keeping it from dropping off. I loosened the bolts and > removed the bracket > > in two pieces. The .080 steel bracket would have been stout enough, > but the bolted flanges were cut square and cracks began there. I > removed the > > safety wire and electric connections and took the bracket home. I > remade an .080 bracket that has no corners or sharp edges. I put some > high temp silver paint on it > > and hung it out for reassembly tomorrow. I think I'm probably the > 10^th person that has had this bracket crack in this way. Time to > look carefully at yours, especially > > if you have but one ignition. > > Fly safe guys, > > Larry McFarland Stratus powered 601HDS with 156 hours > > at www.macsmachine.com > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 15, 2011
From: Tim Shankland <tshankland(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Bracket for the mounted solid state ignition
When I was building my plane I didn't like the way the ignition was mounted. My concern is that the cantilevered mounting can let the module vibrate. What I did was to put a plastic threaded pipe plug in a threaded hole under the module. This keeps the module and bracket in tension so it cannot vibrate. So far 150 hours and no cracks. Tim Shankland Larry McFarland wrote: > Hi Guys, > > I visited the hangar to do a preflight this afternoon and a friend > found my Stratus solid state ignition bracket was cracked and there > was a lot of flex in it. > > Two 8.8 mm bolts holding the rectangular box to the engine were the > only thing keeping it from dropping off. I loosened the bolts and > removed the bracket > > in two pieces. The .080 steel bracket would have been stout enough, > but the bolted flanges were cut square and cracks began there. I > removed the > > safety wire and electric connections and took the bracket home. I > remade an .080 bracket that has no corners or sharp edges. I put some > high temp silver paint on it > > and hung it out for reassembly tomorrow. I think I'm probably the > 10th person that has had this bracket crack in this way. Time to look > carefully at yours, especially > > if you have but one ignition. > > > > Fly safe guys, > > > > Larry McFarland Stratus powered 601HDS with 156 hours > > at www.macsmachine.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Andy Fultz" <andynfultz(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Drive Belt
Date: Mar 23, 2011
What's the best source for a new reduction drive belt these days? Though mine has only had an hour or so run time on the ground it is nearly 10 years old. It shows no sign of a problem at the moment but I'm finally not too far from being airborn and I don't want a problem then. Thanks guys. Andy F. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry McFarland" <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Subject: seeping header shutoff valve
Date: Apr 14, 2011
Hi Guys, This past month an experimental burned up in a t-hangar in Davenport. The suspected reason was a milk house heater setup that was running on and off and that he had a leaking fuel system. The 182 in the adjoining hangar and a boat in the other were both burned. The 182 was written off as totaled. The fuselage exploded and the heat caused the beams above to sag a little. Worst of it all was that he had no insurance. None! Anyway, I realized my heater system was the same as his and my cockpit had that familiar smell too, so I put my finger around the shutoff fittings and it was damp. It's the automotive brass cone type with springs that keep it tight for a year or two. This one was the second I'd replaced, so I went to the hardware store and bought a ball valve type with a yellow handle denoting the gas, oil and water compatibility. It took a little while to drain the tank and get the fittings arranged to keep from re-plumbing everything and using a piece of the shutoff without the handle. A slight mod to the valve handle took care of the job. If you're using one of these brass fitting, take a look at it! The ball valve types are a much safer bet. http://www.macsmachine.com/images/controllinkages/full/fuelshutoff2.gif This week there's no smell and it's dry in there. I'm flying again with great weather and looking forward to more. Endorphins are up again. Do fly safe, Larry McFarland at www.macsmachine.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 28, 2011
From: Bill Steer <steerr(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Need pickup
Hello. My Stratus Subaru engine has never started on the primary ignition, so I'd start it on backup and then switch to primary. That worked for a while (a few hours), but then it stopped running on the primary. I replaced the ignition module in the distributor with a TP45, but that didn't help. I should have checked the pickup coil when I had the distributor out and on the bench, but didn't. I now discover that the pickup coil is open, which may have been the problem all along. Does anybody know where I can get a replacement pickup coil? Frank has suggested Ram Performance and I'm going to give him a call. Any other sources, other than a junk yard? Thanks for your help Bill Zenith CH601HD, Stratus Subaru ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry McFarland" <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Subject: Need pickup
Date: Apr 28, 2011
Hi Bill, Go to NAPA store and buy IC-107 coils. They work fine and mount easily on the firewall brace. http://www.macsmachine.com/images/electrical/full/TP45mounts.gif The link shows my IC-107 coils mounted and the TP45 modules. Should work for you very well. More info on the Electrical page of my website. Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Steer Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2011 12:14 PM Subject: [Probable Spam] Stratus-List: Need pickup Hello. My Stratus Subaru engine has never started on the primary ignition, so I'd start it on backup and then switch to primary. That worked for a while (a few hours), but then it stopped running on the primary. I replaced the ignition module in the distributor with a TP45, but that didn't help. I should have checked the pickup coil when I had the distributor out and on the bench, but didn't. I now discover that the pickup coil is open, which may have been the problem all along. Does anybody know where I can get a replacement pickup coil? Frank has suggested Ram Performance and I'm going to give him a call. Any other sources, other than a junk yard? Thanks for your help Bill Zenith CH601HD, Stratus Subaru ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 27, 2011
Subject: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling problem
From: ron hansen <ronhansen123(at)gmail.com>
Hi listers, I've been quiet a long time due to life interfering with my plans, but I need some help. I had about 60 hours on my 601HDS with a Stratus on it. I was fighting temp. issues from the start, adjusting the carb jets and such. I had Ram modify the heads before it flew. Anyway, I never went past the Stratus 230 deg. "water temp" redline, but often approached it. Taxiing in after 60 flight hours I broke a valve seat and later learned broke a piston. I have not been pleased with Stratus support for years so I had Ram Performance rebuild the engine. He also made some other changes and it now runs stronger and cooler, but still not cool enough. I moved the "water temp" probe from the Stratus setup in the cylinder head dry-hole to actual water as it comes out of the engine. Ram says water temp redline should be 220 deg. and the engine should run at the thermostat setting of 190 deg. Research I've done would indicate the same for long engine life. Anyway, I still get water temp climbing to 220 a few minutes after takeoff on a warm day and I suspect it would go higher. My radiator is the stock Zenair radiator installed per plans. Gaps are sealed. Coolant is 50/50 per instructions. I'm beginning to think the Zenith setup is not suitable for a 100HP engine that is water cooled. The Rotax they designed it for only uses water to cool the heads. I don't want to ruin my new Ram-rebuilt engine. It is running really well: stronger, cooler, lower fuel burn......but it's not running at the temps it should do to a weak cooling system. If anyone has data or ideas that would help I would appreciate hearing from you. I recall all sorts of discussion from years past (this plane took me many years to build from plans), but I can't remember where all those ideas ended up. I know some were abandoned, but others probably solved some or all of the problem. I've gone through the archives, but you never know if you're missing something important that came later. Thanks, Ron Hansen Los Angeles 601HDS, Ram-Rebuilt (formerly Stratus) Subaru EA81 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 28, 2011
From: <gkrysztopik(at)satx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling problem
My system has been pretty good since Al sold me his old radiator - 3" thick, 16" wide core (21" total with a small tank on each side) and about 5" tall. I reworked the exhaust to move the muffler out of the cowling and under the belly, and air flows over the oil pan as well as through the radiator. In TX, it stays around 95 - 100 degrees F in the summer and I can't sustain full-power climbs without banging against the redlines so I step climb. I'm reworking things again and I'm hoping it will be much better. I had the radiator and oil pan sharing the same inlet duct and I will be separating them, and trying an exhaust-augmented outlet duct. I hope to be done within a few weeks of fiddling and will post results and pictures. Gary Krysztopik Pelican w/Stratus EA-81 San Antonio, TX ---- ron hansen wrote: > Hi listers, > > I've been quiet a long time due to life interfering with my plans, but I > need some help. I had about 60 hours on my 601HDS with a Stratus on it. I > was fighting temp. issues from the start, adjusting the carb jets and such. > I had Ram modify the heads before it flew. Anyway, I never went past the > Stratus 230 deg. "water temp" redline, but often approached it. Taxiing in > after 60 flight hours I broke a valve seat and later learned broke a > piston. I have not been pleased with Stratus support for years so I had Ram > Performance rebuild the engine. He also made some other changes and it now > runs stronger and cooler, but still not cool enough. I moved the "water > temp" probe from the Stratus setup in the cylinder head dry-hole to actual > water as it comes out of the engine. Ram says water temp redline should be > 220 deg. and the engine should run at the thermostat setting of 190 deg. > Research I've done would indicate the same for long engine life. > > Anyway, I still get water temp climbing to 220 a few minutes after takeoff > on a warm day and I suspect it would go higher. My radiator is the stock > Zenair radiator installed per plans. Gaps are sealed. Coolant is 50/50 per > instructions. I'm beginning to think the Zenith setup is not suitable for a > 100HP engine that is water cooled. The Rotax they designed it for only uses > water to cool the heads. > > I don't want to ruin my new Ram-rebuilt engine. It is running really well: > stronger, cooler, lower fuel burn......but it's not running at the temps it > should do to a weak cooling system. If anyone has data or ideas that would > help I would appreciate hearing from you. I recall all sorts of discussion > from years past (this plane took me many years to build from plans), but I > can't remember where all those ideas ended up. I know some were abandoned, > but others probably solved some or all of the problem. I've gone through > the archives, but you never know if you're missing something important that > came later. > > Thanks, > > Ron Hansen > Los Angeles > 601HDS, Ram-Rebuilt (formerly Stratus) Subaru EA81 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry McFarland" <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Subject: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling problem
Date: Jun 27, 2011
HI Ron, The cooling issue is very common, but coolant temps should never see more than 200 on a hot day in a perpetual climb. My cowl opening just ahead of the oil pan for some reason cools better in a climb than going fast flat and level. As you've done the jetting, you might consider the propeller pitch. My Warp Drive 70-inch 3 blade set for 17-1/2 degrees per their instrument does a much better job of cooling flat out at or near 120 mph. The pitch allows lower rpms, better speed. I trim nose down carefully to get best speed by setting rpms to 4300 for best fuel burn until the rate of climb gage indicates level flight. You feel the center of lift move slightly back on the wing and get optimum cooling this way too. Odd, I flew for a year or more before realizing that trimming in the last bit of down elevator at a cruise rpm would increase performance and cooling so much. Used to also worry that the nose was always slightly up before discovering this. I seldom fly flat out as there's no way to justify the fuel burn and engine wear at 5000 rpm. Note the links show the hole in front of the oil pan and heat from the exhaust pipes is fed cool air either side of the cowl looking straight in at aluminum sleeve clearance aluminum. They made a significant difference. http://www.macsmachine.com/images/completion/full/601ezclosefrtrt.gif http://www.macsmachine.com/images/cowling/full/cowelfrtlower.gif Hope this helps, Fly safe Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ron hansen Sent: Monday, June 27, 2011 5:53 PM Subject: [Probable Spam] Stratus-List: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling problem Hi listers, I've been quiet a long time due to life interfering with my plans, but I need some help. I had about 60 hours on my 601HDS with a Stratus on it. I was fighting temp. issues from the start, adjusting the carb jets and such. I had Ram modify the heads before it flew. Anyway, I never went past the Stratus 230 deg. "water temp" redline, but often approached it. Taxiing in after 60 flight hours I broke a valve seat and later learned broke a piston. I have not been pleased with Stratus support for years so I had Ram Performance rebuild the engine. He also made some other changes and it now runs stronger and cooler, but still not cool enough. I moved the "water temp" probe from the Stratus setup in the cylinder head dry-hole to actual water as it comes out of the engine. Ram says water temp redline should be 220 deg. and the engine should run at the thermostat setting of 190 deg. Research I've done would indicate the same for long engine life. Anyway, I still get water temp climbing to 220 a few minutes after takeoff on a warm day and I suspect it would go higher. My radiator is the stock Zenair radiator installed per plans. Gaps are sealed. Coolant is 50/50 per instructions. I'm beginning to think the Zenith setup is not suitable for a 100HP engine that is water cooled. The Rotax they designed it for only uses water to cool the heads. I don't want to ruin my new Ram-rebuilt engine. It is running really well: stronger, cooler, lower fuel burn......but it's not running at the temps it should do to a weak cooling system. If anyone has data or ideas that would help I would appreciate hearing from you. I recall all sorts of discussion from years past (this plane took me many years to build from plans), but I can't remember where all those ideas ended up. I know some were abandoned, but others probably solved some or all of the problem. I've gone through the archives, but you never know if you're missing something important that came later. Thanks, Ron Hansen Los Angeles 601HDS, Ram-Rebuilt (formerly Stratus) Subaru EA81 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 27, 2011
Subject: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling problem
From: ron hansen <ronhansen123(at)gmail.com>
Thanks, Larry. I think I have the mixture problem solved. Ram did a dyno test and measure d exhaust components and said they were good. 101 measured HP was also nice. After repairing the broken valve seat and other damage that caused, Ron Car r at Ram dynoed the engine first with the timing per Stratus specs and only got 83HP. Then he changed (advanced) the timing to his specs and it came u p to 101HP. Now it runs stronger, cooler, and burns less gas. I haven't thought about prop setting. I have the same Warp 3 blade set to 12.5 degrees relative to the prop hub, not the horizon. Is that how your pitch is measured? I get 4875 RPM on early takeoff roll. I can't hold brakes at full throttle. What takeoff RPM are you getting at 17.5 degrees? Climb is great even at max GW of 1320#. I still don't quite get to 5300 RP M in any flight regime other than a descent so I figured I was about right. I've tested lower and higher pitches, but not since the rebuild that added so much HP. I can certainly play with prop pitch again and see what happens. Although I think I will probably need a major rebuild of the radiator, before I do that I may do things like prop pitch, lower the antifreeze component from 50% to 25%, and try "Water Wetter" which seems to have sound followers that say it works and few downsides that I've seen. I see your radiator is moved well back vs. the Zenith plans. Do you know how much that helped the cooling and are you still making the glass intake to sell? The rest seems fairly straight forward. I built from scratch so although I was hoping to avoid another major change and just fly, I can do the work if needed. Thanks again for the help, Ron ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Larry McFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> Date: Mon, Jun 27, 2011 at 6:41 PM Subject: RE: [Probable Spam] Stratus-List: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling problem HI Ron,**** The cooling issue is very common, but coolant temps should never see more than 200 on a hot day in a perpetual climb. My cowl opening just ahead of the oil pan for some reason cools better in a climb than going fast flat an d level. As you=92ve done the jetting, you might consider the propeller pitch. My Warp Drive 70-inch 3 blade set for 17-1/2 degrees per their instrument does a much better job of cooling flat out at or near**** 120 mph. The pitch allows lower rpms, better speed. I trim nose down carefully to get best speed by setting rpms to 4300 for best fuel burn unti l the rate of climb gage indicates level flight. You feel the center of lift move slightly back on the wing and get optimum cooling this way too. Odd, I flew for a year or more before realizing that trimming in the last bit of down elevator at a cruise rpm would increase performance and cooling so much. Used to also worry that the nose was always slightly up before discovering this.**** I seldom fly flat out as there=92s no way to justify the fuel burn and engi ne wear at 5000 rpm.**** Note the links show the hole in front of the oil pan and heat from the exhaust pipes is fed cool air either side of the cowl looking straight in** * * at aluminum sleeve clearance aluminum. They made a significant difference. **** http://www.macsmachine.com/images/completion/full/601ezclosefrtrt.gif**** http://www.macsmachine.com/images/cowling/full/cowelfrtlower.gif**** Hope this helps,**** Fly safe**** ** ** Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com**** **** ** ** ** ** *From:* owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *ron hansen *Sent:* Monday, June 27, 2011 5:53 PM *To:* stratus-list(at)matronics.com *Subject:* [Probable Spam] Stratus-List: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling problem**** ** ** Hi listers, I've been quiet a long time due to life interfering with my plans, but I need some help. I had about 60 hours on my 601HDS with a Stratus on it. I was fighting temp. issues from the start, adjusting the carb jets and such. I had Ram modify the heads before it flew. Anyway, I never went past the Stratus 230 deg. "water temp" redline, but often approached it. Taxiing in after 60 flight hours I broke a valve seat and later learned broke a piston. I have not been pleased with Stratus support for years so I had Ra m Performance rebuild the engine. He also made some other changes and it now runs stronger and cooler, but still not cool enough. I moved the "water temp" probe from the Stratus setup in the cylinder head dry-hole to actual water as it comes out of the engine. Ram says water temp redline should be 220 deg. and the engine should run at the thermostat setting of 190 deg. Research I've done would indicate the same for long engine life. Anyway, I still get water temp climbing to 220 a few minutes after takeoff on a warm day and I suspect it would go higher. My radiator is the stock Zenair radiator installed per plans. Gaps are sealed. Coolant is 50/50 pe r instructions. I'm beginning to think the Zenith setup is not suitable for a 100HP engine that is water cooled. The Rotax they designed it for only use s water to cool the heads. I don't want to ruin my new Ram-rebuilt engine. It is running really well: stronger, cooler, lower fuel burn......but it's not running at the temps it should do to a weak cooling system. If anyone has data or ideas that would help I would appreciate hearing from you. I recall all sorts of discussion from years past (this plane took me many years to build from plans), but I can't remember where all those ideas ended up. I know some were abandoned, but others probably solved some or all of the problem. I've gone through the archives, but you never know if you're missing something important that came later. Thanks, Ron Hansen Los Angeles 601HDS, Ram-Rebuilt (formerly Stratus) Subaru EA81**** * * * * ** ** ** ** ** *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Stratus-List* ** ** *http://forums.matronics.com* ** ** ** ** *http://www.matronics.com/contribution* ** * * * * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 28, 2011
From: <gkrysztopik(at)satx.rr.com>
Subject: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling problem
Good point Larry. I found that a higher pitch setting ran cooler than a fine pitch. Counter-intuitive to me. 12 degrees ran hot, 16 degrees was noticeably cooler. Gary ---- Larry McFarland wrote: > HI Ron, > > The cooling issue is very common, but coolant temps should never see more > than 200 on a hot day in a perpetual climb. My cowl opening just ahead of > the oil pan for some reason cools better in a climb than going fast flat and > level. As you've done the jetting, you might consider the propeller pitch. > My Warp Drive 70-inch 3 blade set for 17-1/2 degrees per their instrument > does a much better job of cooling flat out at or near > > 120 mph. The pitch allows lower rpms, better speed. I trim nose down > carefully to get best speed by setting rpms to 4300 for best fuel burn until > the rate of climb gage indicates level flight. You feel the center of lift > move slightly back on the wing and get optimum cooling this way too. Odd, I > flew for a year or more before realizing that trimming in the last bit of > down elevator at a cruise rpm would increase performance and cooling so > much. Used to also worry that the nose was always slightly up before > discovering this. > > I seldom fly flat out as there's no way to justify the fuel burn and engine > wear at 5000 rpm. > > Note the links show the hole in front of the oil pan and heat from the > exhaust pipes is fed cool air either side of the cowl looking straight in > > at aluminum sleeve clearance aluminum. They made a significant difference. > > > http://www.macsmachine.com/images/completion/full/601ezclosefrtrt.gif > > http://www.macsmachine.com/images/cowling/full/cowelfrtlower.gif > > Hope this helps, > > Fly safe > > > > Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com > > > > > > > > From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ron hansen > Sent: Monday, June 27, 2011 5:53 PM > To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: [Probable Spam] Stratus-List: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling > problem > > > > Hi listers, > > I've been quiet a long time due to life interfering with my plans, but I > need some help. I had about 60 hours on my 601HDS with a Stratus on it. I > was fighting temp. issues from the start, adjusting the carb jets and such. > I had Ram modify the heads before it flew. Anyway, I never went past the > Stratus 230 deg. "water temp" redline, but often approached it. Taxiing in > after 60 flight hours I broke a valve seat and later learned broke a piston. > I have not been pleased with Stratus support for years so I had Ram > Performance rebuild the engine. He also made some other changes and it now > runs stronger and cooler, but still not cool enough. I moved the "water > temp" probe from the Stratus setup in the cylinder head dry-hole to actual > water as it comes out of the engine. Ram says water temp redline should be > 220 deg. and the engine should run at the thermostat setting of 190 deg. > Research I've done would indicate the same for long engine life. > > Anyway, I still get water temp climbing to 220 a few minutes after takeoff > on a warm day and I suspect it would go higher. My radiator is the stock > Zenair radiator installed per plans. Gaps are sealed. Coolant is 50/50 per > instructions. I'm beginning to think the Zenith setup is not suitable for a > 100HP engine that is water cooled. The Rotax they designed it for only uses > water to cool the heads. > > I don't want to ruin my new Ram-rebuilt engine. It is running really well: > stronger, cooler, lower fuel burn......but it's not running at the temps it > should do to a weak cooling system. If anyone has data or ideas that would > help I would appreciate hearing from you. I recall all sorts of discussion > from years past (this plane took me many years to build from plans), but I > can't remember where all those ideas ended up. I know some were abandoned, > but others probably solved some or all of the problem. I've gone through > the archives, but you never know if you're missing something important that > came later. > > Thanks, > > Ron Hansen > Los Angeles > 601HDS, Ram-Rebuilt (formerly Stratus) Subaru EA81 > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry McFarland" <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Subject: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling
problem
Date: Jun 28, 2011
Ron, I use a gage that Warp Drive makes for setting the pitch. It's accurate to half a degree and you should have one. I have a spare one if you want it. Send me your address and I'll mail it to you. My pitch is based from the top longeron, not the propeller center line. The gage is set by presetting the desired degrees, clamping the gage on the end of the prop and adjusting the blade to get the bubble level on the gage. (Very accurate & consistent) Just add or subtract the difference from level on the longeron. My longeron are 2 degrees nose up (tri-gear) and pitch has to be adjusted for that to get level flight. I've not made any radiator intakes for a while, so I pitched the mold. I still have the form for the intake and could make a new mold if you want one. I couldn't do one until sometime after Oshkosh. I have to get $200.00 for the intake as it represents two full days work plus materials. It does eliminate turbulence at the radiator opening and provide better flow on the negative side of the louvers which results in better cooling by 7 degrees or more plus the 5 you get with the louvers. The radiator is set behind the firewall 32 inches and I've flown with it both up front and back where it is now. The CG is better with it back there owing to the weight of the Subaru. I like the look of it as well. Study the radiator construct on my engine page for minor changes you would need and let me know if you want an intake. Other thing that helps get rid of engine temps is exhaust wrap. Not so hard to do, but it keeps heat in until it gets out the exhaust. Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ron hansen Sent: Monday, June 27, 2011 11:51 PM Subject: [Probable Spam] Fwd: Stratus-List: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling problem Thanks, Larry. I think I have the mixture problem solved. Ram did a dyno test and measured exhaust components and said they were good. 101 measured HP was also nice. After repairing the broken valve seat and other damage that caused, Ron Carr at Ram dynoed the engine first with the timing per Stratus specs and only got 83HP. Then he changed (advanced) the timing to his specs and it came up to 101HP. Now it runs stronger, cooler, and burns less gas. I haven't thought about prop setting. I have the same Warp 3 blade set to 12.5 degrees relative to the prop hub, not the horizon. Is that how your pitch is measured? I get 4875 RPM on early takeoff roll. I can't hold brakes at full throttle. What takeoff RPM are you getting at 17.5 degrees? Climb is great even at max GW of 1320#. I still don't quite get to 5300 RPM in any flight regime other than a descent so I figured I was about right. I've tested lower and higher pitches, but not since the rebuild that added so much HP. I can certainly play with prop pitch again and see what happens. Although I think I will probably need a major rebuild of the radiator, before I do that I may do things like prop pitch, lower the antifreeze component from 50% to 25%, and try "Water Wetter" which seems to have sound followers that say it works and few downsides that I've seen. I see your radiator is moved well back vs. the Zenith plans. Do you know how much that helped the cooling and are you still making the glass intake to sell? The rest seems fairly straight forward. I built from scratch so although I was hoping to avoid another major change and just fly, I can do the work if needed. Thanks again for the help, Ron ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Larry McFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> Date: Mon, Jun 27, 2011 at 6:41 PM Subject: RE: [Probable Spam] Stratus-List: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling problem HI Ron, The cooling issue is very common, but coolant temps should never see more than 200 on a hot day in a perpetual climb. My cowl opening just ahead of the oil pan for some reason cools better in a climb than going fast flat and level. As you've done the jetting, you might consider the propeller pitch. My Warp Drive 70-inch 3 blade set for 17-1/2 degrees per their instrument does a much better job of cooling flat out at or near 120 mph. The pitch allows lower rpms, better speed. I trim nose down carefully to get best speed by setting rpms to 4300 for best fuel burn until the rate of climb gage indicates level flight. You feel the center of lift move slightly back on the wing and get optimum cooling this way too. Odd, I flew for a year or more before realizing that trimming in the last bit of down elevator at a cruise rpm would increase performance and cooling so much. Used to also worry that the nose was always slightly up before discovering this. I seldom fly flat out as there's no way to justify the fuel burn and engine wear at 5000 rpm. Note the links show the hole in front of the oil pan and heat from the exhaust pipes is fed cool air either side of the cowl looking straight in at aluminum sleeve clearance aluminum. They made a significant difference. http://www.macsmachine.com/images/completion/full/601ezclosefrtrt.gif http://www.macsmachine.com/images/cowling/full/cowelfrtlower.gif Hope this helps, Fly safe Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ron hansen Sent: Monday, June 27, 2011 5:53 PM Subject: [Probable Spam] Stratus-List: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling problem Hi listers, I've been quiet a long time due to life interfering with my plans, but I need some help. I had about 60 hours on my 601HDS with a Stratus on it. I was fighting temp. issues from the start, adjusting the carb jets and such. I had Ram modify the heads before it flew. Anyway, I never went past the Stratus 230 deg. "water temp" redline, but often approached it. Taxiing in after 60 flight hours I broke a valve seat and later learned broke a piston. I have not been pleased with Stratus support for years so I had Ram Performance rebuild the engine. He also made some other changes and it now runs stronger and cooler, but still not cool enough. I moved the "water temp" probe from the Stratus setup in the cylinder head dry-hole to actual water as it comes out of the engine. Ram says water temp redline should be 220 deg. and the engine should run at the thermostat setting of 190 deg. Research I've done would indicate the same for long engine life. Anyway, I still get water temp climbing to 220 a few minutes after takeoff on a warm day and I suspect it would go higher. My radiator is the stock Zenair radiator installed per plans. Gaps are sealed. Coolant is 50/50 per instructions. I'm beginning to think the Zenith setup is not suitable for a 100HP engine that is water cooled. The Rotax they designed it for only uses water to cool the heads. I don't want to ruin my new Ram-rebuilt engine. It is running really well: stronger, cooler, lower fuel burn......but it's not running at the temps it should do to a weak cooling system. If anyone has data or ideas that would help I would appreciate hearing from you. I recall all sorts of discussion from years past (this plane took me many years to build from plans), but I can't remember where all those ideas ended up. I know some were abandoned, but others probably solved some or all of the problem. I've gone through the archives, but you never know if you're missing something important that came later. Thanks, Ron Hansen Los Angeles 601HDS, Ram-Rebuilt (formerly Stratus) Subaru EA81 http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Stratus-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Stratus-List tp://forums.matronics.com _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 28, 2011
Subject: Re: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling
problem
From: ron hansen <ronhansen123(at)gmail.com>
Excellent info. Thanks again, Larry. I measure prop pitch off the prop hub now because my engine settled a bit i n the mounts in early testing and I wanted to remove that variable. I altere d my motor mount (lower port-side hole was frankly not quite right from Zenith) while Ram was rebuilding the engine and it's less prone to any settling now. I have the Warp Drive device and also find it easy to be accurate with, but thanks for the offer. Your prop pitch would be 15.5 degrees relative to the hub. I'm at 12.5 now. I've been to 15 or 16 relative to the hub in testing but did that before I was getting full power from the engine. (Probably 83HP vs. the 101 HP after Ram rebuild.) I need to test higher pitches again. At the time, that high a pitch gave me slowe r climb and cruise due to low RPMs. 18 more HP will make a difference in the results. I have great climb right now. I went from 1000' density altitude to 9000' density altitude in 9 minutes at 1,120# GW a week ago. I would give some of that up for higher cruise and especially for lower engine temperatures. I have wrapped the exhaust pipes. I have cowl bump outs for the pipes similar to yours, though not lined with aluminum, but have not cut holes in the front like you have. I'll have to look at my CG situation if I move the radiator. I'm real happ y with it now as I can't go out of CG range without overloading a station, bu t I have a BRS parachute in the cargo deck that offsets the Subaru nicely. Would the glass intake fit if I don't move the radiator? I'm thinking the nose strut or muffler would cause a problem. Moving the rad back less than you did might solve the clearance issue without messing up the CG, but that's a new experiment and might move it into a worse pressure area. Too much "experimental" in experimental aviation sometimes, but I really appreciate the help sorting this out. I love flying the plane. Ron On Tue, Jun 28, 2011 at 7:27 AM, Larry McFarland wro te: > Ron,**** > > I use a gage that Warp Drive makes for setting the pitch. It=92s accurate to > half a degree and you should have one. I have a spare one if you want it . > Send me your address and I=92ll mail it to you. **** > > My pitch is based from the top longeron, not the propeller center line. > The gage is set by presetting the desired degrees, clamping the gage on t he > end of the prop and adjusting the blade to get the bubble level on the > gage. (Very accurate & consistent) Just add or subtract the difference > from level on the longeron. My longeron are 2 degrees nose up (tri-gear) > and pitch has to be adjusted for that to get level flight.**** > > I=92ve not made any radiator intakes for a while, so I pitched the mold. I > still have the form for the intake and could make a new mold if you want > one. I couldn=92t do one until sometime after Oshkosh. I have to get $2 00.00 > for the intake as it represents two full days work plus materials. It do es > eliminate turbulence at the radiator opening and provide better flow on t he > negative side of the louvers which results in better cooling by 7 degrees or > more plus the 5 you get with the louvers. The radiator is set behind the > firewall 32 inches and I=92ve flown with it both up front and back where it is > now. The CG is better with it back there owing to the weight of the Suba ru. > I like the look of it as well. Study the radiator construct on my engine > page for minor changes you would need and let me know if you want an inta ke. > **** > > ** ** > > Other thing that helps get rid of engine temps is exhaust wrap. Not so ha rd > to do, but it keeps heat in until it gets out the exhaust. **** > > Larry McFarland**** > > 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com**** > > ** ** > > *From:* owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto: > owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *ron hansen > *Sent:* Monday, June 27, 2011 11:51 PM > > *To:* stratus-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* [Probable Spam] Fwd: Stratus-List: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram > cooling problem**** > > ** ** > > Thanks, Larry. > > I think I have the mixture problem solved. Ram did a dyno test and > measured exhaust components and said they were good. 101 measured HP was > also nice. After repairing the broken valve seat and other damage that > caused, Ron Carr at Ram dynoed the engine first with the timing per Strat us > specs and only got 83HP. Then he changed (advanced) the timing to his sp ecs > and it came up to 101HP. Now it runs stronger, cooler, and burns less ga s. > > I haven't thought about prop setting. I have the same Warp 3 blade set t o > 12.5 degrees relative to the prop hub, not the horizon. Is that how your > pitch is measured? I get 4875 RPM on early takeoff roll. I can't hold > brakes at full throttle. What takeoff RPM are you getting at 17.5 degree s? > Climb is great even at max GW of 1320#. I still don't quite get to 5300 RPM > in any flight regime other than a descent so I figured I was about right. > I've tested lower and higher pitches, but not since the rebuild that adde d > so much HP. I can certainly play with prop pitch again and see what > happens. Although I think I will probably need a major rebuild of the > radiator, before I do that I may do things like prop pitch, lower the > antifreeze component from 50% to 25%, and try "Water Wetter" which seems to > have sound followers that say it works and few downsides that I've seen. > > I see your radiator is moved well back vs. the Zenith plans. Do you know > how much that helped the cooling and are you still making the glass intak e > to sell? The rest seems fairly straight forward. I built from scratch s o > although I was hoping to avoid another major change and just fly, I can d o > the work if needed. > > Thanks again for the help, > > Ron**** > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: *Larry McFarland* <larry(at)macsmachine.com> > Date: Mon, Jun 27, 2011 at 6:41 PM > Subject: RE: [Probable Spam] Stratus-List: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooli ng > problem > To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com > > **** > > HI Ron,**** > > The cooling issue is very common, but coolant temps should never see more > than 200 on a hot day in a perpetual climb. My cowl opening just ahead o f > the oil pan for some reason cools better in a climb than going fast flat and > level. As you=92ve done the jetting, you might consider the propeller > pitch. My Warp Drive 70-inch 3 blade set for 17-1/2 degrees per their > instrument does a much better job of cooling flat out at or near**** > > 120 mph. The pitch allows lower rpms, better speed. I trim nose down > carefully to get best speed by setting rpms to 4300 for best fuel burn un til > the rate of climb gage indicates level flight. You feel the center of li ft > move slightly back on the wing and get optimum cooling this way too. Odd , I > flew for a year or more before realizing that trimming in the last bit of > down elevator at a cruise rpm would increase performance and cooling so > much. Used to also worry that the nose was always slightly up before > discovering this.**** > > I seldom fly flat out as there=92s no way to justify the fuel burn and en gine > wear at 5000 rpm.**** > > Note the links show the hole in front of the oil pan and heat from the > exhaust pipes is fed cool air either side of the cowl looking straight in * > *** > > at aluminum sleeve clearance aluminum. They made a significant differenc e. > **** > > http://www.macsmachine.com/images/completion/full/601ezclosefrtrt.gif**** > > http://www.macsmachine.com/images/cowling/full/cowelfrtlower.gif**** > > Hope this helps,**** > > Fly safe**** > > **** > > Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com**** > > **** > > **** > > **** > > *From:* owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto: > owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *ron hansen > *Sent:* Monday, June 27, 2011 5:53 PM > *To:* stratus-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* [Probable Spam] Stratus-List: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling > problem**** > > **** > > Hi listers, > > I've been quiet a long time due to life interfering with my plans, but I > need some help. I had about 60 hours on my 601HDS with a Stratus on it. I > was fighting temp. issues from the start, adjusting the carb jets and suc h. > I had Ram modify the heads before it flew. Anyway, I never went past the > Stratus 230 deg. "water temp" redline, but often approached it. Taxiing in > after 60 flight hours I broke a valve seat and later learned broke a > piston. I have not been pleased with Stratus support for years so I had Ram > Performance rebuild the engine. He also made some other changes and it n ow > runs stronger and cooler, but still not cool enough. I moved the "water > temp" probe from the Stratus setup in the cylinder head dry-hole to actua l > water as it comes out of the engine. Ram says water temp redline should be > 220 deg. and the engine should run at the thermostat setting of 190 deg. > Research I've done would indicate the same for long engine life. > > Anyway, I still get water temp climbing to 220 a few minutes after takeof f > on a warm day and I suspect it would go higher. My radiator is the stock > Zenair radiator installed per plans. Gaps are sealed. Coolant is 50/50 per > instructions. I'm beginning to think the Zenith setup is not suitable fo r a > 100HP engine that is water cooled. The Rotax they designed it for only u ses > water to cool the heads. > > I don't want to ruin my new Ram-rebuilt engine. It is running really wel l: > stronger, cooler, lower fuel burn......but it's not running at the temps it > should do to a weak cooling system. If anyone has data or ideas that wou ld > help I would appreciate hearing from you. I recall all sorts of discussi on > from years past (this plane took me many years to build from plans), but I > can't remember where all those ideas ended up. I know some were abandone d, > but others probably solved some or all of the problem. I've gone through > the archives, but you never know if you're missing something important th at > came later. > > Thanks, > > Ron Hansen > Los Angeles > 601HDS, Ram-Rebuilt (formerly Stratus) Subaru EA81**** > > * ***** > > * ***** > > *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Stratus-List***** > > *http://forums.matronics.com***** > > *http://www.matronics.com/contribution***** > > * ***** > > * * > > * * > > *target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Stratus-List* > > *tp://forums.matronics.com* > > *_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution* > > * * > > ** ** > > * * > > * * > > ** > > ** > > ** > > ** > > ** > > *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Stratus-List* > > ** > > ** > > *http://forums.matronics.com* > > ** > > ** > > ** > > ** > > *http://www.matronics.com/contribution* > > ** > > * * > > * > =========== =========== =========== =========== > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Shankland" <tshankland(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling problem
Date: Jun 27, 2011
Ron, I fly A 601HD with a status Suburu. My engine temperature runs at 190 with an occasional 200 on long hot climbouts. I think that a lot of the problems builders have had with this engine is due to high temperatures. I spent 1 year designing my cooling system and gave a couple of seminars at OSH about cooling systems design. I don't know if that stock design can ever give really good results.My system looks somewhat "radical" and is not easily adapted to a finished aircraft. The problem is that the stock system has no ducting of pressure recover, plus the fact that exhaust and engine heat go into the radiator. Various idea expressed in this forum can help, but the root cause is an inadequate design Tim Shankland ----- Original Message ----- From: ron hansen To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, June 27, 2011 3:53 PM Subject: Stratus-List: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling problem Hi listers, I've been quiet a long time due to life interfering with my plans, but I need some help. I had about 60 hours on my 601HDS with a Stratus on it. I was fighting temp. issues from the start, adjusting the carb jets and such. I had Ram modify the heads before it flew. Anyway, I never went past the Stratus 230 deg. "water temp" redline, but often approached it. Taxiing in after 60 flight hours I broke a valve seat and later learned broke a piston. I have not been pleased with Stratus support for years so I had Ram Performance rebuild the engine. He also made some other changes and it now runs stronger and cooler, but still not cool enough. I moved the "water temp" probe from the Stratus setup in the cylinder head dry-hole to actual water as it comes out of the engine. Ram says water temp redline should be 220 deg. and the engine should run at the thermostat setting of 190 deg. Research I've done would indicate the same for long engine life. Anyway, I still get water temp climbing to 220 a few minutes after takeoff on a warm day and I suspect it would go higher. My radiator is the stock Zenair radiator installed per plans. Gaps are sealed. Coolant is 50/50 per instructions. I'm beginning to think the Zenith setup is not suitable for a 100HP engine that is water cooled. The Rotax they designed it for only uses water to cool the heads. I don't want to ruin my new Ram-rebuilt engine. It is running really well: stronger, cooler, lower fuel burn......but it's not running at the temps it should do to a weak cooling system. If anyone has data or ideas that would help I would appreciate hearing from you. I recall all sorts of discussion from years past (this plane took me many years to build from plans), but I can't remember where all those ideas ended up. I know some were abandoned, but others probably solved some or all of the problem. I've gone through the archives, but you never know if you're missing something important that came later. Thanks, Ron Hansen Los Angeles 601HDS, Ram-Rebuilt (formerly Stratus) Subaru EA81 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry McFarland" <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Subject: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling
problem
Date: Jun 28, 2011
Ron, If you use my intake, you=92d have to add a strip each side to get an additional =BD-inch or so open at the front end. The mouth of the intake is made to reduce the area, get better cooling with a stable airflow and deflect the air going around the bottom to effect a better negative pressure back at the louvers. This effectively zeros out the drag at the front end, not completely, but it helps a lot. The inch from the fuselage to the intake is dead air, sometimes moving in the same direction as the plane, so the intake needs no better streamlining there. The engine page on my site shows what=92s needed to put the radiator correct with the intake. I have a guidance sheet that pretty much summarizes the process. The aluminum in my lower cowl which clears the pipes from the fiberglass replaced the fiberglass as I was burning up the fiberglass before the pipes were wrapped and the front opens blow some of the heat from around the exhaust pipes. The position front to rear had no appreciable change for engine temps one way or another. Guess I should have said that first. With a header and wing tanks, the rear position radiator keeps my CG in touch all the way to 1300 lbs. no matter how it=92s loaded. Try getting to the airspeed you=92re after, level flight, then tap-adjust the trim down and watch the plane speed up, loose a little altitude and recover to a bit more airspeed, better cooling. I=92ve teased another 5 mph out of the 4300 rpm with such adjustments. Flat out doesn=92t improve, but lower rpms do. I=92ve attached several files that will describe the radiator and install better than I can here. Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ron hansen Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2011 11:51 AM Subject: Re: [Probable Spam] Fwd: Stratus-List: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling problem Excellent info. Thanks again, Larry. I measure prop pitch off the prop hub now because my engine settled a bit in the mounts in early testing and I wanted to remove that variable. I altered my motor mount (lower port-side hole was frankly not quite right from Zenith) while Ram was rebuilding the engine and it's less prone to any settling now. I have the Warp Drive device and also find it easy to be accurate with, but thanks for the offer. Your prop pitch would be 15.5 degrees relative to the hub. I'm at 12.5 now. I've been to 15 or 16 relative to the hub in testing but did that before I was getting full power from the engine. (Probably 83HP vs. the 101 HP after Ram rebuild.) I need to test higher pitches again. At the time, that high a pitch gave me slower climb and cruise due to low RPMs. 18 more HP will make a difference in the results. I have great climb right now. I went from 1000' density altitude to 9000' density altitude in 9 minutes at 1,120# GW a week ago. I would give some of that up for higher cruise and especially for lower engine temperatures. I have wrapped the exhaust pipes. I have cowl bump outs for the pipes similar to yours, though not lined with aluminum, but have not cut holes in the front like you have. I'll have to look at my CG situation if I move the radiator. I'm real happy with it now as I can't go out of CG range without overloading a station, but I have a BRS parachute in the cargo deck that offsets the Subaru nicely. Would the glass intake fit if I don't move the radiator? I'm thinking the nose strut or muffler would cause a problem. Moving the rad back less than you did might solve the clearance issue without messing up the CG, but that's a new experiment and might move it into a worse pressure area. Too much "experimental" in experimental aviation sometimes, but I really appreciate the help sorting this out. I love flying the plane. Ron On Tue, Jun 28, 2011 at 7:27 AM, Larry McFarland wrote: Ron, I use a gage that Warp Drive makes for setting the pitch. It=92s accurate to half a degree and you should have one. I have a spare one if you want it. Send me your address and I=92ll mail it to you. My pitch is based from the top longeron, not the propeller center line. The gage is set by presetting the desired degrees, clamping the gage on the end of the prop and adjusting the blade to get the bubble level on the gage. (Very accurate & consistent) Just add or subtract the difference from level on the longeron. My longeron are 2 degrees nose up (tri-gear) and pitch has to be adjusted for that to get level flight. I=92ve not made any radiator intakes for a while, so I pitched the mold. I still have the form for the intake and could make a new mold if you want one. I couldn=92t do one until sometime after Oshkosh. I have to get $200.00 for the intake as it represents two full days work plus materials. It does eliminate turbulence at the radiator opening and provide better flow on the negative side of the louvers which results in better cooling by 7 degrees or more plus the 5 you get with the louvers. The radiator is set behind the firewall 32 inches and I=92ve flown with it both up front and back where it is now. The CG is better with it back there owing to the weight of the Subaru. I like the look of it as well. Study the radiator construct on my engine page for minor changes you would need and let me know if you want an intake. Other thing that helps get rid of engine temps is exhaust wrap. Not so hard to do, but it keeps heat in until it gets out the exhaust. Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com <http://www.macsmachine.com/> From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ron hansen Sent: Monday, June 27, 2011 11:51 PM Subject: [Probable Spam] Fwd: Stratus-List: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling problem Thanks, Larry. I think I have the mixture problem solved. Ram did a dyno test and measured exhaust components and said they were good. 101 measured HP was also nice. After repairing the broken valve seat and other damage that caused, Ron Carr at Ram dynoed the engine first with the timing per Stratus specs and only got 83HP. Then he changed (advanced) the timing to his specs and it came up to 101HP. Now it runs stronger, cooler, and burns less gas. I haven't thought about prop setting. I have the same Warp 3 blade set to 12.5 degrees relative to the prop hub, not the horizon. Is that how your pitch is measured? I get 4875 RPM on early takeoff roll. I can't hold brakes at full throttle. What takeoff RPM are you getting at 17.5 degrees? Climb is great even at max GW of 1320#. I still don't quite get to 5300 RPM in any flight regime other than a descent so I figured I was about right. I've tested lower and higher pitches, but not since the rebuild that added so much HP. I can certainly play with prop pitch again and see what happens. Although I think I will probably need a major rebuild of the radiator, before I do that I may do things like prop pitch, lower the antifreeze component from 50% to 25%, and try "Water Wetter" which seems to have sound followers that say it works and few downsides that I've seen. I see your radiator is moved well back vs. the Zenith plans. Do you know how much that helped the cooling and are you still making the glass intake to sell? The rest seems fairly straight forward. I built from scratch so although I was hoping to avoid another major change and just fly, I can do the work if needed. Thanks again for the help, Ron ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Larry McFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> Date: Mon, Jun 27, 2011 at 6:41 PM Subject: RE: [Probable Spam] Stratus-List: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling problem HI Ron, The cooling issue is very common, but coolant temps should never see more than 200 on a hot day in a perpetual climb. My cowl opening just ahead of the oil pan for some reason cools better in a climb than going fast flat and level. As you=92ve done the jetting, you might consider the propeller pitch. My Warp Drive 70-inch 3 blade set for 17-1/2 degrees per their instrument does a much better job of cooling flat out at or near 120 mph. The pitch allows lower rpms, better speed. I trim nose down carefully to get best speed by setting rpms to 4300 for best fuel burn until the rate of climb gage indicates level flight. You feel the center of lift move slightly back on the wing and get optimum cooling this way too. Odd, I flew for a year or more before realizing that trimming in the last bit of down elevator at a cruise rpm would increase performance and cooling so much. Used to also worry that the nose was always slightly up before discovering this. I seldom fly flat out as there=92s no way to justify the fuel burn and engine wear at 5000 rpm. Note the links show the hole in front of the oil pan and heat from the exhaust pipes is fed cool air either side of the cowl looking straight in at aluminum sleeve clearance aluminum. They made a significant difference. http://www.macsmachine.com/images/completion/full/601ezclosefrtrt.gif http://www.macsmachine.com/images/cowling/full/cowelfrtlower.gif Hope this helps, Fly safe Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com <http://www.macsmachine.com/> From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ron hansen Sent: Monday, June 27, 2011 5:53 PM Subject: [Probable Spam] Stratus-List: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling problem Hi listers, I've been quiet a long time due to life interfering with my plans, but I need some help. I had about 60 hours on my 601HDS with a Stratus on it. I was fighting temp. issues from the start, adjusting the carb jets and such. I had Ram modify the heads before it flew. Anyway, I never went past the Stratus 230 deg. "water temp" redline, but often approached it. Taxiing in after 60 flight hours I broke a valve seat and later learned broke a piston. I have not been pleased with Stratus support for years so I had Ram Performance rebuild the engine. He also made some other changes and it now runs stronger and cooler, but still not cool enough. I moved the "water temp" probe from the Stratus setup in the cylinder head dry-hole to actual water as it comes out of the engine. Ram says water temp redline should be 220 deg. and the engine should run at the thermostat setting of 190 deg. Research I've done would indicate the same for long engine life. Anyway, I still get water temp climbing to 220 a few minutes after takeoff on a warm day and I suspect it would go higher. My radiator is the stock Zenair radiator installed per plans. Gaps are sealed. Coolant is 50/50 per instructions. I'm beginning to think the Zenith setup is not suitable for a 100HP engine that is water cooled. The Rotax they designed it for only uses water to cool the heads. I don't want to ruin my new Ram-rebuilt engine. It is running really well: stronger, cooler, lower fuel burn......but it's not running at the temps it should do to a weak cooling system. If anyone has data or ideas that would help I would appreciate hearing from you. I recall all sorts of discussion from years past (this plane took me many years to build from plans), but I can't remember where all those ideas ended up. I know some were abandoned, but others probably solved some or all of the problem. I've gone through the archives, but you never know if you're missing something important that came later. Thanks, Ron Hansen Los Angeles 601HDS, Ram-Rebuilt (formerly Stratus) Subaru EA81 http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Stratus-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Stratus-List tp://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com/> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Stratus-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Stratus-List ttp://forums.matronics.com _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 28, 2011
Subject: Re: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling problem
From: ron hansen <ronhansen123(at)gmail.com>
Can the plastic nubs that stick up from the Zenith 601 radiator (VW Rabbit part if I recall) be cut off without making a hole in the radiator or weakening it? These are the aprox. 1/2" dia. by 1/2" tall cylindrical posts with a hole in the center, two on the top, two on the bottom of both ends of the radiator. They probably don't disturb the air into the radiator a lot, but I'd sure like to saw them off. Thanks, Ron On Mon, Jun 27, 2011 at 3:53 PM, ron hansen wrote: > Hi listers, > > I've been quiet a long time due to life interfering with my plans, but I > need some help. I had about 60 hours on my 601HDS with a Stratus on it. I > was fighting temp. issues from the start, adjusting the carb jets and such. > I had Ram modify the heads before it flew. Anyway, I never went past the > Stratus 230 deg. "water temp" redline, but often approached it. Taxiing in > after 60 flight hours I broke a valve seat and later learned broke a > piston. I have not been pleased with Stratus support for years so I had Ram > Performance rebuild the engine. He also made some other changes and it now > runs stronger and cooler, but still not cool enough. I moved the "water > temp" probe from the Stratus setup in the cylinder head dry-hole to actual > water as it comes out of the engine. Ram says water temp redline should be > 220 deg. and the engine should run at the thermostat setting of 190 deg. > Research I've done would indicate the same for long engine life. > > Anyway, I still get water temp climbing to 220 a few minutes after takeoff > on a warm day and I suspect it would go higher. My radiator is the stock > Zenair radiator installed per plans. Gaps are sealed. Coolant is 50/50 per > instructions. I'm beginning to think the Zenith setup is not suitable for a > 100HP engine that is water cooled. The Rotax they designed it for only uses > water to cool the heads. > > I don't want to ruin my new Ram-rebuilt engine. It is running really well: > stronger, cooler, lower fuel burn......but it's not running at the temps it > should do to a weak cooling system. If anyone has data or ideas that would > help I would appreciate hearing from you. I recall all sorts of discussion > from years past (this plane took me many years to build from plans), but I > can't remember where all those ideas ended up. I know some were abandoned, > but others probably solved some or all of the problem. I've gone through > the archives, but you never know if you're missing something important that > came later. > > Thanks, > > Ron Hansen > Los Angeles > 601HDS, Ram-Rebuilt (formerly Stratus) Subaru EA81 > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Andy Fultz" <andynfultz(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling problem
Date: Jun 28, 2011
Ron, I feel your pain and would be interested in any responses you get. I've been flying my STRATUS powered AVID for two weeks today and I am having the same cooling problems you are having. What size is your radiator? Andy F. -----Original Message----- From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of ron hansen Sent: Monday, June 27, 2011 5:53 PM To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Stratus-List: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling problem Hi listers, I've been quiet a long time due to life interfering with my plans, but I need some help. I had about 60 hours on my 601HDS with a Stratus on it. I was fighting temp. issues from the start, adjusting the carb jets and such. I had Ram modify the heads before it flew. Anyway, I never went past the Stratus 230 deg. "water temp" redline, but often approached it. Taxiing in after 60 flight hours I broke a valve seat and later learned broke a piston. I have not been pleased with Stratus support for years so I had Ram Performance rebuild the engine. He also made some other changes and it now runs stronger and cooler, but still not cool enough. I moved the "water temp" probe from the Stratus setup in the cylinder head dry-hole to actual water as it comes out of the engine. Ram says water temp redline should be 220 deg. and the engine should run at the thermostat setting of 190 deg. Research I've done would indicate the same for long engine life. Anyway, I still get water temp climbing to 220 a few minutes after takeoff on a warm day and I suspect it would go higher. My radiator is the stock Zenair radiator installed per plans. Gaps are sealed. Coolant is 50/50 per instructions. I'm beginning to think the Zenith setup is not suitable for a 100HP engine that is water cooled. The Rotax they designed it for only uses water to cool the heads. I don't want to ruin my new Ram-rebuilt engine. It is running really well: stronger, cooler, lower fuel burn......but it's not running at the temps it should do to a weak cooling system. If anyone has data or ideas that would help I would appreciate hearing from you. I recall all sorts of discussion from years past (this plane took me many years to build from plans), but I can't remember where all those ideas ended up. I know some were abandoned, but others probably solved some or all of the problem. I've gone through the archives, but you never know if you're missing something important that came later. Thanks, Ron Hansen Los Angeles 601HDS, Ram-Rebuilt (formerly Stratus) Subaru EA81 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 28, 2011
Subject: Re: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling problem
From: ron hansen <ronhansen123(at)gmail.com>
My radiator core is aprx. 12" wide x 19" long x 1.5" thick. It's a single layer radiator. I'm looking at the Zenair installation design and referencing a book called "Cooling Your Wankel" that I just bought from Aircraft Spruce. Most of it applies to any water-cooled aircraft engine installation, though some is Wankel specific. I think I can improve efficiency by adhering to some design concepts in the book better than Zenair did. I'll be doing some mods and testing this weekend if the weather's good and will post results. Ron On Tue, Jun 28, 2011 at 7:17 PM, Andy Fultz wrote: > ** > Ron, > > I feel your pain and would be interested in any responses you get. I've > been flying my STRATUS powered AVID for two weeks today and I am having the > same cooling problems you are having. What size is your radiator? > > Andy F. > > -----Original Message----- > *From:* owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto: > owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com]*On Behalf Of *ron hansen > *Sent:* Monday, June 27, 2011 5:53 PM > *To:* stratus-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* Stratus-List: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling problem > > Hi listers, > > I've been quiet a long time due to life interfering with my plans, but I > need some help. I had about 60 hours on my 601HDS with a Stratus on it. I > was fighting temp. issues from the start, adjusting the carb jets and such. > I had Ram modify the heads before it flew. Anyway, I never went past the > Stratus 230 deg. "water temp" redline, but often approached it. Taxiing in > after 60 flight hours I broke a valve seat and later learned broke a > piston. I have not been pleased with Stratus support for years so I had Ram > Performance rebuild the engine. He also made some other changes and it now > runs stronger and cooler, but still not cool enough. I moved the "water > temp" probe from the Stratus setup in the cylinder head dry-hole to actual > water as it comes out of the engine. Ram says water temp redline should be > 220 deg. and the engine should run at the thermostat setting of 190 deg. > Research I've done would indicate the same for long engine life. > > Anyway, I still get water temp climbing to 220 a few minutes after takeoff > on a warm day and I suspect it would go higher. My radiator is the stock > Zenair radiator installed per plans. Gaps are sealed. Coolant is 50/50 per > instructions. I'm beginning to think the Zenith setup is not suitable for a > 100HP engine that is water cooled. The Rotax they designed it for only uses > water to cool the heads. > > I don't want to ruin my new Ram-rebuilt engine. It is running really well: > stronger, cooler, lower fuel burn......but it's not running at the temps it > should do to a weak cooling system. If anyone has data or ideas that would > help I would appreciate hearing from you. I recall all sorts of discussion > from years past (this plane took me many years to build from plans), but I > can't remember where all those ideas ended up. I know some were abandoned, > but others probably solved some or all of the problem. I've gone through > the archives, but you never know if you're missing something important that > came later. > > Thanks, > > Ron Hansen > Los Angeles > 601HDS, Ram-Rebuilt (formerly Stratus) Subaru EA81 > > * > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Stratus-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Stratus-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c* > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ronbo135(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 29, 2011
Subject: Re: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling problem
In a message dated 6/28/2011 2:43:27 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, tshankland(at)sbcglobal.net writes: Ron, I fly A 601HD with a status Suburu. My engine temperature runs at 190 with an occasional 200 on long hot climbouts. I think that a lot of the problems builders have had with this engine is due to high temperatures. I spent 1 year designing my cooling system and gave a couple of seminars at OSH about cooling systems design. I don't know if that stock design can ever give really good results.My system looks somewhat "radical" and is not easily adapted to a finished aircraft. The problem is that the stock system has no ducting of pressure recover, plus the fact that exhaust and engine heat go into the radiator. Various idea expressed in this forum can help, but the root cause is an inadequate design Tim Shankland ----- Original Message ----- From: _ron hansen_ (mailto:ronhansen123(at)gmail.com) Sent: Monday, June 27, 2011 3:53 PM Subject: Stratus-List: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling problem Hi listers, I've been quiet a long time due to life interfering with my plans, but I need some help. I had about 60 hours on my 601HDS with a Stratus on it. I was fighting temp. issues from the start, adjusting the carb jets and such. I had Ram modify the heads before it flew. Anyway, I never went past the Stratus 230 deg. "water temp" redline, but often approached it. Taxiing in after 60 flight hours I broke a valve seat and later learned broke a piston. I have not been pleased with Stratus support for years so I had Ram Performance rebuild the engine. He also made some other changes and it now runs stronger and cooler, but still not cool enough. I moved the "water temp" probe from the Stratus setup in the cylinder head dry-hole to actual water as it comes out of the engine. Ram says water temp redline should be 220 deg. and the engine should run at the thermostat setting of 190 deg. Research I've done would indicate the same for long engine life. Anyway, I still get water temp climbing to 220 a few minutes after takeoff on a warm day and I suspect it would go higher. My radiator is the stock Zenair radiator installed per plans. Gaps are sealed. Coolant is 50/50 per instructions. I'm beginning to think the Zenith setup is not suitable for a 100HP engine that is water cooled. The Rotax they designed it for only uses water to cool the heads. I don't want to ruin my new Ram-rebuilt engine. It is running really well: stronger, cooler, lower fuel burn......but it's not running at the temps it should do to a weak cooling system. If anyone has data or ideas that would help I would appreciate hearing from you. I recall all sorts of discussion from years past (this plane took me many years to build from plans), but I can't remember where all those ideas ended up. I know some were abandoned, but others probably solved some or all of the problem. I've gone through the archives, but you never know if you're missing something important that came later. Thanks, Ron Hansen Los Angeles 601HDS, Ram-Rebuilt (formerly Stratus) Subaru EA81 href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Stratus-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Stratus-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ronbo135(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 29, 2011
Subject: Re: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling problem
Thanks, Tim. Your conclusion that the design is inadequate is in line with what I'm learning and hearing. In a message dated 6/28/2011 2:43:27 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, tshankland(at)sbcglobal.net writes: Ron, I fly A 601HD with a status Suburu. My engine temperature runs at 190 with an occasional 200 on long hot climbouts. I think that a lot of the problems builders have had with this engine is due to high temperatures. I spent 1 year designing my cooling system and gave a couple of seminars at OSH about cooling systems design. I don't know if that stock design can ever give really good results.My system looks somewhat "radical" and is not easily adapted to a finished aircraft. The problem is that the stock system has no ducting of pressure recover, plus the fact that exhaust and engine heat go into the radiator. Various idea expressed in this forum can help, but the root cause is an inadequate design Tim Shankland ----- Original Message ----- From: _ron hansen_ (mailto:ronhansen123(at)gmail.com) Sent: Monday, June 27, 2011 3:53 PM Subject: Stratus-List: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling problem Hi listers, I've been quiet a long time due to life interfering with my plans, but I need some help. I had about 60 hours on my 601HDS with a Stratus on it. I was fighting temp. issues from the start, adjusting the carb jets and such. I had Ram modify the heads before it flew. Anyway, I never went past the Stratus 230 deg. "water temp" redline, but often approached it. Taxiing in after 60 flight hours I broke a valve seat and later learned broke a piston. I have not been pleased with Stratus support for years so I had Ram Performance rebuild the engine. He also made some other changes and it now runs stronger and cooler, but still not cool enough. I moved the "water temp" probe from the Stratus setup in the cylinder head dry-hole to actual water as it comes out of the engine. Ram says water temp redline should be 220 deg. and the engine should run at the thermostat setting of 190 deg. Research I've done would indicate the same for long engine life. Anyway, I still get water temp climbing to 220 a few minutes after takeoff on a warm day and I suspect it would go higher. My radiator is the stock Zenair radiator installed per plans. Gaps are sealed. Coolant is 50/50 per instructions. I'm beginning to think the Zenith setup is not suitable for a 100HP engine that is water cooled. The Rotax they designed it for only uses water to cool the heads. I don't want to ruin my new Ram-rebuilt engine. It is running really well: stronger, cooler, lower fuel burn......but it's not running at the temps it should do to a weak cooling system. If anyone has data or ideas that would help I would appreciate hearing from you. I recall all sorts of discussion from years past (this plane took me many years to build from plans), but I can't remember where all those ideas ended up. I know some were abandoned, but others probably solved some or all of the problem. I've gone through the archives, but you never know if you're missing something important that came later. Thanks, Ron Hansen Los Angeles 601HDS, Ram-Rebuilt (formerly Stratus) Subaru EA81 href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Stratus-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Stratus-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com>
Date: Jun 29, 2011
Subject: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling problem
I think its more like no design at all. I hear all the time about how a wat er cooled system CAN be better than air cooled. I mean look at the Mustang! The fact of the matter is, its really never been done. If its any consolation the faster the airplane the harder it appears to mak e it work. RV's running water cooled motors almost always run 20 to 25 knot s slower than their air-cooled counterparts for the same fuel burn. As for me my RV7a has an IO360 (Lycoming) but I did build a variation of my Zodiac wing root electric fuel pump system..I.e junked the mechanical fuel pump...Just to upset the "proper airplane engine" establishment..:) Frank 601HDS..Stratus with ram heads RV7a Io360 Cell/Mobile +1 541 602 8756 Tel +1 541 715 7568 From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-se rver(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ronbo135(at)aol.com Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2011 11:42 AM Subject: Re: Stratus-List: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling problem Thanks, Tim. Your conclusion that the design is inadequate is in line with what I'm lear ning and hearing. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com>
Date: Jul 01, 2011
Subject: Re: Stratus-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 06/30/11
Bill, It takes only a few minutes on a buffing wheel to achieve a mirror finish.. I made a bunch of brake caliper pistons once in Stainless..then polished th em on the buffer. The cool thing is Harbor freight sell a nice grinder (industrial version) f or $60 or so that you can mount a buffer too..I love mine it's a beast...An d excuse to get a really handy tool if ever I heard one..:) Frank From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-se rver(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Morelli Sent: Friday, July 01, 2011 5:36 AM Subject: Stratus-List: Re: Stratus-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 06/30/11 Brian, I had a steel version of that spacer made at a machine shop. Seal riding on the steel spacer started leaking faster than the aluminum s pacer with the grove. Replaced first seal at 293 hours ( aluminum spacer had groove) Replaced second seal when it had 271 hours on it (aluminum spacer with seco nd groove) Installed steel spacer and new seal Had to replace seal after 188 hours One thing to note is that the steel spacer surface was not polished and has some light machining marks on it. Maybe that is why it the seal started le aking on the steel spacer sooner than with the grooved aluminum spacer?? Next seal change I will either get the steel spacer polished or put the gro oved aluminum back in. Regards, Bill Morelli - Vermont CH601-HDS 793 hours 1153 landings Stratus EA-81 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 01, 2011
Subject: Re: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling problem
From: ron hansen <ronhansen123(at)gmail.com>
I was hoping to saw those things off this weekend. If anyone has relevant info I would appreciate it. Thanks and have a great holiday weekend, Ron On Tue, Jun 28, 2011 at 5:11 PM, ron hansen wrote: > Can the plastic nubs that stick up from the Zenith 601 radiator (VW Rabbit > part if I recall) be cut off without making a hole in the radiator or > weakening it? These are the aprox. 1/2" dia. by 1/2" tall cylindrical posts > with a hole in the center, two on the top, two on the bottom of both ends of > the radiator. They probably don't disturb the air into the radiator a lot, > but I'd sure like to saw them off. > > Thanks, > > Ron > > On Mon, Jun 27, 2011 at 3:53 PM, ron hansen wrote: > >> Hi listers, >> >> I've been quiet a long time due to life interfering with my plans, but I >> need some help. I had about 60 hours on my 601HDS with a Stratus on it. I >> was fighting temp. issues from the start, adjusting the carb jets and such. >> I had Ram modify the heads before it flew. Anyway, I never went past the >> Stratus 230 deg. "water temp" redline, but often approached it. Taxiing in >> after 60 flight hours I broke a valve seat and later learned broke a >> piston. I have not been pleased with Stratus support for years so I had Ram >> Performance rebuild the engine. He also made some other changes and it now >> runs stronger and cooler, but still not cool enough. I moved the "water >> temp" probe from the Stratus setup in the cylinder head dry-hole to actual >> water as it comes out of the engine. Ram says water temp redline should be >> 220 deg. and the engine should run at the thermostat setting of 190 deg. >> Research I've done would indicate the same for long engine life. >> >> Anyway, I still get water temp climbing to 220 a few minutes after takeoff >> on a warm day and I suspect it would go higher. My radiator is the stock >> Zenair radiator installed per plans. Gaps are sealed. Coolant is 50/50 per >> instructions. I'm beginning to think the Zenith setup is not suitable for a >> 100HP engine that is water cooled. The Rotax they designed it for only uses >> water to cool the heads. >> >> I don't want to ruin my new Ram-rebuilt engine. It is running really >> well: stronger, cooler, lower fuel burn......but it's not running at the >> temps it should do to a weak cooling system. If anyone has data or ideas >> that would help I would appreciate hearing from you. I recall all sorts of >> discussion from years past (this plane took me many years to build from >> plans), but I can't remember where all those ideas ended up. I know some >> were abandoned, but others probably solved some or all of the problem. I've >> gone through the archives, but you never know if you're missing something >> important that came later. >> >> Thanks, >> >> Ron Hansen >> Los Angeles >> 601HDS, Ram-Rebuilt (formerly Stratus) Subaru EA81 >> > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling problem
From: "jpkarnes" <jpkarnes(at)comcast.net>
Date: Jul 04, 2011
I had cooling issues as well but were due primarily to having the muffler in front of the radiator. I installed Supertrapp mufflers on either side of the engine and my cooling issues were resolved. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=344869#344869 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry McFarland" <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Subject: Re: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling problem
Date: Jul 04, 2011
I have to agree bout that. I put a wrapper heat muff around my Stratus Subaru muffler to selectively extract and dump heat overboard in the summer or use the heat in the winter. This is a major component for cooling my Stratus Subaru. The muffler sets crosswise behind the engine. The wrapper has a Scat tube to bring in cool air from the front cowl and one that exhausts the heat on the opposite side. It really works well. Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jpkarnes Sent: Monday, July 04, 2011 11:12 AM Subject: Stratus-List: Re: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling problem I had cooling issues as well but were due primarily to having the muffler in front of the radiator. I installed Supertrapp mufflers on either side of the engine and my cooling issues were resolved. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=344869#344869 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 04, 2011
Subject: Re: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling problem
From: ron hansen <ronhansen123(at)gmail.com>
I like the simplicity of that vs. re-designing and re-building a radiator installation. I'm not familiar with the Supertrapp mufflers. What style or part number did you use? Thanks for the help. Ron On Mon, Jul 4, 2011 at 9:12 AM, jpkarnes wrote: > > I had cooling issues as well but were due primarily to having the muffler > in front of the radiator. I installed Supertrapp mufflers on either side of > the engine and my cooling issues were resolved. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=344869#344869 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling problem
From: "jpkarnes" <jpkarnes(at)comcast.net>
Date: Jul 05, 2011
SuperTrapp Universal 17" S/C Elite Muffler - 2" i.d. Inlet/Chrome I'm pretty sure this is the muffler I used. They have worked great and leave airflow completely unimpeded. I used two - one on each side. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=345049#345049 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 05, 2011
From: Gary Krysztopik <gkrysztopik(at)satx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling problem
I use a Burns stainless steel muffler and it has worked well too. On 7/5/2011 8:22 PM, jpkarnes wrote: > --> Stratus-List message posted by: "jpkarnes" > > SuperTrapp Universal 17" S/C Elite Muffler - 2" i.d. Inlet/Chrome > > I'm pretty sure this is the muffler I used. They have worked great and leave airflow completely unimpeded. I used two - one on each side. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=345049#345049 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 06, 2011
Subject: Re: Zenair601HDS Stratus/Ram cooling problem
From: ron hansen <ronhansen123(at)gmail.com>
Thanks for the info. Ron On Tue, Jul 5, 2011 at 6:22 PM, jpkarnes wrote: > > SuperTrapp Universal 17" S/C Elite Muffler - 2" i.d. Inlet/Chrome > > I'm pretty sure this is the muffler I used. They have worked great and > leave airflow completely unimpeded. I used two - one on each side. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=345049#345049 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 08, 2011
From: Bill Steer <steerr(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Coolant temperature sensor
I did not receive a coolant temperature sensor with my engine, even though a temperature gauge was included. What sensor are folks using and where are you placing it? Thanks. Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry McFarland" <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Subject: Coolant temperature sensor
Date: Jul 08, 2011
Bill, I placed the coolant pressure and temp sensors on a hose fitting that was made to join the elbow from the radiator to the straight hose from the engine. See link, http://www.macsmachine.com/images/subaruengine/full/hose-connector-with-pres sur.gif Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Steer Sent: Friday, July 08, 2011 3:59 PM Subject: [Probable Spam] Stratus-List: Coolant temperature sensor I did not receive a coolant temperature sensor with my engine, even though a temperature gauge was included. What sensor are folks using and where are you placing it? Thanks. Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry McFarland" <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Subject: Coolant temperature sensor
Date: Jul 08, 2011
Try that link again and it should come up. I forgot it was truncated and needed to be on one line. Larry http://www.macsmachine.com/images/subaruengine/full/hose-connector-with-pres sur.gif -----Original Message----- From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry McFarland Sent: Friday, July 08, 2011 5:09 PM Subject: RE: [Probable Spam] Stratus-List: Coolant temperature sensor --> Bill, I placed the coolant pressure and temp sensors on a hose fitting that was made to join the elbow from the radiator to the straight hose from the engine. See link, http://www.macsmachine.com/images/subaruengine/full/hose-connector-with-pres sur.gif Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Steer Sent: Friday, July 08, 2011 3:59 PM Subject: [Probable Spam] Stratus-List: Coolant temperature sensor I did not receive a coolant temperature sensor with my engine, even though a temperature gauge was included. What sensor are folks using and where are you placing it? Thanks. Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Andy Fultz" <andynfultz(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Coolant temperature sensor
Date: Jul 09, 2011
Bill, If you are refering to a STRATUS engine, and I have to assume you are, mine came with the sensor installed in the rear of the right side of the block. Andy F. -----Original Message----- From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Steer Sent: Friday, July 08, 2011 3:59 PM Subject: Stratus-List: Coolant temperature sensor I did not receive a coolant temperature sensor with my engine, even though a temperature gauge was included. What sensor are folks using and where are you placing it? Thanks. Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 10, 2011
From: Bill Steer <steerr(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Coolant temperature sensor
Yes, it's a Stratus Subaru engine. I believe you're talking about connection #5, which the manual refers to as "engine block temperature." Is that correct? I'll look next time I'm at the airport, but is there another connection that's just for coolant temperature? Thanks. Bill On 7/9/2011 11:01 PM, Andy Fultz wrote: > --> Stratus-List message posted by: "Andy Fultz" > > Bill, > > If you are refering to a STRATUS engine, and I have to assume you are, > mine came with the sensor installed in the rear of the right side of the > block. > > Andy F. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 10, 2011
From: Gary Krysztopik <gkrysztopik(at)satx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Coolant temperature sensor
I cut up some 1/8" NPT "T" fittings and welded them into an aluminum tube that acted as a hose coupler. I made one for the rad inlet and one for the outlet to measure temp drop. I used the same gauge and put a switch in. Gary > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 11, 2011
From: Don Walker <d3dw(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Coolant temperature sensor
HI guys. I have two things to analyze. I have been flying in 100degrees plu s and =0Amy block/coolant temp goes up to 208 degrees. (My oil temp NEVER g oes over 185 =0Abecause I have a heat muff over my muffler for cabin heat). Now, I followed a =0Asuggestion in this recent discussion...wrapped my pip es with heat wrap...and my =0AEGT temp went up 120 degrees from 1330 in cru ise to 1450...but the =0Ahead/watertemp only went down about 4 or 5 degrees . The EGT goes up even further =0Ain a hard climb with the wrap...1500.=0A - 1. Is the oil temp being that low a good indication that the rise in =0Ahead/water temp is not a problem at 1450?=0A- 2. Would you take off th e wrap to get back to 1330 EGT-and fly with the water =0Aat 208?- Don W alker-- HDS Stratus, 450 hrs=0A=0AIncidentally, I experimented with air flow measurements over the radiator back on =0Athe belly. Laminar airflow f rom belly surface to about six inches-down is very =0Alow. Airflow under the belly starts flowing better over 6" below the belly. this =0Aindicated the need for a scoop that extends beyond 6" below the belly in front =0Aof the radiator. I added a scoop and got improved cooling.=0A=0A=0A=0A________ ________________________=0AFrom: Gary Krysztopik <gkrysztopik(at)satx.rr.com> =0ATo: stratus-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Sun, July 10, 2011 9:38:38 PM=0AS ubject: Re: Stratus-List: Coolant temperature sensor=0A=0A--> Stratus-List message posted by: Gary Krysztopik =0A=0AI cut up some 1/8" NPT "T" fittings and welded them into an aluminum tube that =0Aac ted as a hose coupler.- I made one for the rad inlet and one for the outl et to =0Ameasure temp drop.- I used the same gauge and put a switch in. ======================== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry McFarland" <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Subject: Re: Coolant temperature sensor
Date: Jul 11, 2011
Neat observation! I may have to unwrap the exhaust pipes to see what numbers come from that. My coolant temps are never much over 197. Probably because heat from the raw pipes is contained by the wrap, but I get 1375 to 1425 EGTs. The CHTs/oil temps are always near 210/220 on 85-degree days. On 100-degree days, I'd expect to see coolant temps 205 plus or minus 4 degrees. An oil temp reading from the rear face of the oil pan at 185 degrees would cause me to suspect the temp is reading the air around the pan rather than the oil. The oil temp should be within 10 degrees of the CHT. I fly 178/2.78 jets that are as rich as my engine will run well on. The heat muff did reduce the water/head temps as you say, but apparently benefits of wrapping the pipes is subject to how much airflow continues thru from the front of the cowl. I'd dislike seeing more than 1450 EGT in a climb on a hot day and have set-point to alert at that temp. Jets seem to be the only thing to affect EGTs. Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don Walker Sent: Monday, July 11, 2011 9:52 AM Subject: [Probable Spam] Re: Stratus-List: Coolant temperature sensor HI guys. I have two things to analyze. I have been flying in 100degrees plus and my block/coolant temp goes up to 208 degrees. (My oil temp NEVER goes over 185 because I have a heat muff over my muffler for cabin heat). Now, I followed a suggestion in this recent discussion...wrapped my pipes with heat wrap...and my EGT temp went up 120 degrees from 1330 in cruise to 1450...but the head/watertemp only went down about 4 or 5 degrees. The EGT goes up even further in a hard climb with the wrap...1500. 1. Is the oil temp being that low a good indication that the rise in head/water temp is not a problem at 1450? 2. Would you take off the wrap to get back to 1330 EGT and fly with the water at 208? Don Walker HDS Stratus, 450 hrs Incidentally, I experimented with airflow measurements over the radiator back on the belly. Laminar airflow from belly surface to about six inches down is very low. Airflow under the belly starts flowing better over 6" below the belly. this indicated the need for a scoop that extends beyond 6" below the belly in front of the radiator. I added a scoop and got improved cooling. _____ From: Gary Krysztopik <gkrysztopik(at)satx.rr.com> Sent: Sun, July 10, 2011 9:38:38 PM Subject: Re: Stratus-List: Coolant temperature sensor I cut up some 1/8" NPT "T" fittings and welded them into an aluminum tube that acted as a hose coupler. I made one for the rad inlet and one for the outlet to measure temp drop. I used the same gauge and put a switch in. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 11, 2011
From: Don Walker <d3dw(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Coolant temperature sensor
Larry, Are you referring to the stock Stratus CHT plugged into the back of the =0Aright cylinder head? Tht for me is what is running at 208 and it is the only =0Aindication of CHT/water that I have. It is the one Rhiner said to redline at 230 =0Adegrees. I don't have a direct water temp indicator. =0AAs for oil temp, I am using the stock Stratus setup. Unlike most, I have an =0Aadjustable door directly in front of the oil pan as well as the muff for cooling =0Athe oil. My oil ran considerably higher before I added thes e.=0A=0AMy EGT is set at 1450, too, but I don't know how to interpret this with the wrap =0Aincreasing the heat by 120 while the other temps are virtu ally unchanged. I =0Aswitched to smaller jets for summer due to plugs looki ng a little too sooted up =0Afor my taste. Won't that rich mixture foul you valves too?=0A=0A=C2-=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom : Larry McFarland =0ATo: stratus-list(at)matronics.com =0ASent: Mon, July 11, 2011 12:53:28 PM=0ASubject: RE: [Probable Spam] Re: Stratus-List: Coolant temperature sensor=0A=0A=0ANeat observation!=C2- I may have to unwrap the exhaust pipes to see what numbers =0Acome from that. =C2- My coolant temps are never much over 197.=0AProbably because heat fr om the raw pipes is contained by the wrap, but I get =0A1375 to 1425 EGTs. =C2- The CHTs/oil temps are always near 210/220=0Aon 85-degree days.=C2 - =C2-On 100-degree days, I=99d expect to see coolant temps 205 =0Aplus or minus 4 degrees.=C2- =C2-An oil temp reading from the rear f ace of the oil pan =0Aat 185 degrees would cause me to suspect the temp is reading the air around the =0Apan rather than the oil.=C2- The oil temp s hould be within 10 degrees of the CHT. =0A=C2-=C2-I fly 178/2.78 jets t hat are as rich as my engine will run well on. The heat =0Amuff did reduce the water/head temps as you say, but apparently benefits of =0Awrapping the pipes is subject to how much airflow continues thru from the front =0Aof t he cowl. =0A=0AI=99d dislike seeing more than 1450 EGT in a climb on a hot day and have set-point =0Ato alert at that temp.=C2- Jets seem to b e the only thing to affect EGTs.=0A=C2-=0ALarry McFarland=C2- 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com=0A=C2-=0AFrom:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.co m =0A[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don Walk er=0ASent: Monday, July 11, 2011 9:52 AM=0ATo: stratus-list(at)matronics.com =0ASubject: [Probable Spam] Re: Stratus-List: Coolant temperature sensor=0A =C2-=0AHI guys. I have two things to analyze. I have been flying in 100de grees plus and =0Amy block/coolant temp goes up to 208 degrees. (My oil tem p NEVER goes over 185 =0Abecause I have a heat muff over my muffler for cab in heat). Now, I followed a =0Asuggestion in this recent discussion...wrapp ed my pipes with heat wrap...and my =0AEGT temp went up 120 degrees from 13 30 in cruise to 1450...but the =0Ahead/watertemp only went down about 4 or 5 degrees. The EGT goes up even further =0Ain a hard climb with the wrap... 1500.=0A=C2- 1. Is the oil temp being that low a good indication that the rise in =0Ahead/water temp is not a problem at 1450?=0A=C2- 2. Would you take off the wrap to get back to 1330 EGT=C2-and fly with the water =0Aa t 208?=C2- Don Walker=C2-=C2- HDS Stratus, 450 hrs=0A=C2-=0AInciden tally, I experimented with airflow measurements over the radiator back on =0Athe belly. Laminar airflow from belly surface to about six inches=C2-d own is very =0Alow. Airflow under the belly starts flowing better over 6" b elow the belly. this =0Aindicated the need for a scoop that extends beyond 6" below the belly in front =0Aof the radiator. I added a scoop and got imp roved cooling.=0A=C2-=0A=0A________________________________=0A=0AFrom:Gar y Krysztopik =0ATo: stratus-list(at)matronics.com=0AS ent: Sun, July 10, 2011 9:38:38 PM=0ASubject: Re: Stratus-List: Coolant tem krysztopik(at)satx.rr.com>=0A=0AI cut up some 1/8" NPT "T" fittings and welded them into an aluminum tube that =0Aacted as a hose coupler.=C2- I made o ne for the rad inlet and one for the outlet to =0Ameasure temp drop.=C2- I used the same gauge and put a switch =0Ahref="http://www.matronics.com/ Navigator?Stratus-List">http://www.matrohttp://forums.matronics.com=0Ahref ="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contrib ===== =0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry McFarland" <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Subject: Re: Coolant temperature sensor
Date: Jul 11, 2011
The stock CHT sensor on the engine, rear pilot=99s side, yes. The sensor is giving you CHT, but coolant temps need to be taken a short distance from the engine. Sooting up the plugs is usually because of a rich idle mixture. On takeoff and cruise, the carbon trace disappear and reappear as taxi is reduced to idle. It=99s logical that EGTs are going to be higher with heat kept within the pipes, though I would not have guessed such a difference. Wrapping pipes to get a 4 to 5 degree better coolant temp with 120-degree higher EGT readings doesn=99t seem an equitable argument for wrapping does it! I=99m going to unwrap my pipes and check flying temps, hopefully at < or =l to 85-degree ambient. It=99s possible I could then go to smaller jet sizes as well. I=99ll let you know when it=99s done. Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com rom: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don Walker Sent: Monday, July 11, 2011 1:15 PM Subject: Re: [Probable Spam] Re: Stratus-List: Coolant temperature sensor Larry, Are you referring to the stock Stratus CHT plugged into the back of the right cylinder head? Tht for me is what is running at 208 and it is the only indication of CHT/water that I have. It is the one Rhiner said to redline at 230 degrees. I don't have a direct water temp indicator. As for oil temp, I am using the stock Stratus setup. Unlike most, I have an adjustable door directly in front of the oil pan as well as the muff for cooling the oil. My oil ran considerably higher before I added these. My EGT is set at 1450, too, but I don't know how to interpret this with the wrap increasing the heat by 120 while the other temps are virtually unchanged. I switched to smaller jets for summer due to plugs looking a little too sooted up for my taste. Won't that rich mixture foul you valves too? _____ From: Larry McFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> Sent: Mon, July 11, 2011 12:53:28 PM Subject: RE: [Probable Spam] Re: Stratus-List: Coolant temperature sensor Neat observation! I may have to unwrap the exhaust pipes to see what numbers come from that. My coolant temps are never much over 197. Probably because heat from the raw pipes is contained by the wrap, but I get 1375 to 1425 EGTs. The CHTs/oil temps are always near 210/220 on 85-degree days. On 100-degree days, I=99d expect to see coolant temps 205 plus or minus 4 degrees. An oil temp reading from the rear face of the oil pan at 185 degrees would cause me to suspect the temp is reading the air around the pan rather than the oil. The oil temp should be within 10 degrees of the CHT. I fly 178/2.78 jets that are as rich as my engine will run well on. The heat muff did reduce the water/head temps as you say, but apparently benefits of wrapping the pipes is subject to how much airflow continues thru from the front of the cowl. I=99d dislike seeing more than 1450 EGT in a climb on a hot day and have set-point to alert at that temp. Jets seem to be the only thing to affect EGTs. Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com <http://www.macsmachine.com/> From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don Walker Sent: Monday, July 11, 2011 9:52 AM Subject: [Probable Spam] Re: Stratus-List: Coolant temperature sensor HI guys. I have two things to analyze. I have been flying in 100degrees plus and my block/coolant temp goes up to 208 degrees. (My oil temp NEVER goes over 185 because I have a heat muff over my muffler for cabin heat). Now, I followed a suggestion in this recent discussion...wrapped my pipes with heat wrap...and my EGT temp went up 120 degrees from 1330 in cruise to 1450...but the head/watertemp only went down about 4 or 5 degrees. The EGT goes up even further in a hard climb with the wrap...1500. 1. Is the oil temp being that low a good indication that the rise in head/water temp is not a problem at 1450? 2. Would you take off the wrap to get back to 1330 EGT and fly with the water at 208? Don Walker HDS Stratus, 450 hrs Incidentally, I experimented with airflow measurements over the radiator back on the belly. Laminar airflow from belly surface to about six inches down is very low. Airflow under the belly starts flowing better over 6" below the belly. this indicated the need for a scoop that extends beyond 6" below the belly in front of the radiator. I added a scoop and got improved cooling. _____ From: Gary Krysztopik <gkrysztopik(at)satx.rr.com> Sent: Sun, July 10, 2011 9:38:38 PM Subject: Re: Stratus-List: Coolant temperature sensor I cut up some 1/8" NPT "T" fittings and welded them into an aluminum tube that acted as a hose coupler. I made one for the rad inlet and one for the outlet to measure temp drop. I used the same gauge and put a switch href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Stratus-List">http://www.matro http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ontribution =========== ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 11, 2011
Subject: Re: Coolant temperature sensor
From: ron hansen <ronhansen123(at)gmail.com>
I must have built my plane a little differently in some way as my Stratus muffler is very close to the nose strut bracket and there's no room to install a muffler shroud to funnel heat away from my radiator. If I could get my water temps down 10 to 15 degrees by doing that I think I'd be a happy camper. I will look and see if there's room for the muffler to move forward half an inch or so if I had the headers cut and welded 1/2" shorter. All these ideas are giving me hope. Thanks. Ron On Mon, Jul 11, 2011 at 4:01 PM, Larry McFarland wro te: > The stock CHT sensor on the engine, rear pilot=92s side, yes. The sensor is > giving you CHT, but coolant temps need to be taken a short distance from the > engine. Sooting up the plugs is usually because of a rich idle mixture. On > takeoff and cruise, the carbon trace disappear and reappear as taxi is > reduced to idle. It=92s logical that EGTs are going to be higher with h eat > kept within the pipes, though I would not have guessed such a difference. > **** > > Wrapping pipes to get a 4 to 5 degree better coolant temp with 120-degre e > higher EGT readings doesn=92t seem an equitable argument for wrapping doe s it! > **** > > I=92m going to unwrap my pipes and check flying temps, hopefully at < or =l > to 85-degree ambient. It=92s possible I could then go to smaller jet siz es as > well. I=92ll let you know when it=92s done.**** > > ** ** > > Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com**** > > ** ** > > *rom:* owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto: > owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Don Walker > *Sent:* Monday, July 11, 2011 1:15 PM > > *To:* stratus-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* Re: [Probable Spam] Re: Stratus-List: Coolant temperature > sensor**** > > ** ** > > Larry, Are you referring to the stock Stratus CHT plugged into the back o f > the right cylinder head? Tht for me is what is running at 208 and it is t he > only indication of CHT/water that I have. It is the one Rhiner said to > redline at 230 degrees. I don't have a direct water temp indicator.**** > > As for oil temp, I am using the stock Stratus setup. Unlike most, I have an > adjustable door directly in front of the oil pan as well as the muff for > cooling the oil. My oil ran considerably higher before I added these.**** > > **** > > My EGT is set at 1450, too, but I don't know how to interpret this with t he > wrap increasing the heat by 120 while the other temps are virtually > unchanged. I switched to smaller jets for summer due to plugs looking a > little too sooted up for my taste. Won't that rich mixture foul you valve s > too?**** > > > **** > > ** ** > ------------------------------ > > *From:* Larry McFarland > *To:* stratus-list(at)matronics.com > *Sent:* Mon, July 11, 2011 12:53:28 PM > *Subject:* RE: [Probable Spam] Re: Stratus-List: Coolant temperature > sensor**** > > Neat observation! I may have to unwrap the exhaust pipes to see what > numbers come from that. My coolant temps are never much over 197.**** > > Probably because heat from the raw pipes is contained by the wrap, but I > get 1375 to 1425 EGTs. The CHTs/oil temps are always near 210/220**** > > on 85-degree days. On 100-degree days, I=92d expect to see coolant temp s > 205 plus or minus 4 degrees. An oil temp reading from the rear face of the > oil pan at 185 degrees would cause me to suspect the temp is reading the air > around the pan rather than the oil. The oil temp should be within 10 > degrees of the CHT. I fly 178/2.78 jets that are as rich as my engine w ill > run well on. The heat muff did reduce the water/head temps as you say, bu t > apparently benefits of wrapping the pipes is subject to how much airflow > continues thru from the front of the cowl. **** > > I=92d dislike seeing more than 1450 EGT in a climb on a hot day and have > set-point to alert at that temp. Jets seem to be the only thing to affec t > EGTs.**** > > **** > > Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com**** > > **** > > *From:* owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto: > owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Don Walker > *Sent:* Monday, July 11, 2011 9:52 AM > *To:* stratus-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* [Probable Spam] Re: Stratus-List: Coolant temperature sensor** * > * > > **** > > HI guys. I have two things to analyze. I have been flying in 100degrees > plus and my block/coolant temp goes up to 208 degrees. (My oil temp NEVER > goes over 185 because I have a heat muff over my muffler for cabin heat). > Now, I followed a suggestion in this recent discussion...wrapped my pipes > with heat wrap...and my EGT temp went up 120 degrees from 1330 in cruise to > 1450...but the head/watertemp only went down about 4 or 5 degrees. The EG T > goes up even further in a hard climb with the wrap...1500.**** > > 1. Is the oil temp being that low a good indication that the rise in > head/water temp is not a problem at 1450?**** > > 2. Would you take off the wrap to get back to 1330 EGT and fly with the > water at 208? Don Walker HDS Stratus, 450 hrs**** > > **** > > Incidentally, I experimented with airflow measurements over the radiator > back on the belly. Laminar airflow from belly surface to about six > inches down is very low. Airflow under the belly starts flowing better ov er > 6" below the belly. this indicated the need for a scoop that extends beyo nd > 6" below the belly in front of the radiator. I added a scoop and got > improved cooling.**** > > **** > ------------------------------ > > *From:* Gary Krysztopik > *To:* stratus-list(at)matronics.com > *Sent:* Sun, July 10, 2011 9:38:38 PM > *Subject:* Re: Stratus-List: Coolant temperature sensor > > gkrysztopik(at)satx.rr.com> > > I cut up some 1/8" NPT "T" fittings and welded them into an aluminum tube > that acted as a hose coupler. I made one for the rad inlet and one for t he > outlet to measure temp drop. I used the same gauge and put a switch href =" > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Stratus-List"> > http://www.matrohttp://forums.matronics.com matronics.com>href=" > http://www.matronics.com/contribution"> > http://www.matronics.com/contribution =========== * *** > > * * > > * * > > ** > > ** > > ** > > ** > > ** > > *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Stratus-List* > > ** > > ** > > *http://forums.matronics.com* > > ** > > ** > > ** > > ** > > *http://www.matronics.com/contribution* > > ** > > * * > > * > =========== =========== =========== =========== > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 11, 2011
From: Don Walker <d3dw(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Coolant temperature sensor
Yes, Larry, I am suspecting you will be able to use smaller jets. The temp =0Adifference was clear and accurately recorded on mine on a trial Saturday before =0Awrapping and this morning after the wrap. I will be looking forw ard to hearing =0Aof your results. Regarding my water, with a CHT of 208 an d oil temp reading 185, =0Athen I suspect my water should be less than 200. ..if it is in line with yours. =0AAre you using the stock Stratus oil temp on the back of the oil pan? =0A=0A-- Another thing I use is an adjustab le flow heater core in the right side of =0Athe nose, close off the drive b elt. It helps in Texas heat for sure, but I have =0Ato close it off in the winter.- don=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Larry McFarland =0ATo: stratus-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Mon, July 11, 2011 6:01:40 PM=0ASubject: RE: [Probable Spam] Re: Stratus-L ist: Coolant temperature sensor ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry McFarland" <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Subject: Re: Coolant temperature sensor
Date: Jul 12, 2011
Yes, I use the stock Stratus oil sensor in the back of the oil pan near the muffler cover. Have thought about an oil cooler. Still might be a good idea for the plane and hot days. Larry McFarland From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don Walker Sent: Monday, July 11, 2011 7:21 PM Subject: Re: [Probable Spam] Re: Stratus-List: Coolant temperature sensor Yes, Larry, I am suspecting you will be able to use smaller jets. The temp difference was clear and accurately recorded on mine on a trial Saturday before wrapping and this morning after the wrap. I will be looking forward to hearing of your results. Regarding my water, with a CHT of 208 and oil temp reading 185, then I suspect my water should be less than 200...if it is in line with yours. Are you using the stock Stratus oil temp on the back of the oil pan? Another thing I use is an adjustable flow heater core in the right side of the nose, close off the drive belt. It helps in Texas heat for sure, but I have to close it off in the winter. don _____ From: Larry McFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> Sent: Mon, July 11, 2011 6:01:40 PM Subject: RE: [Probable Spam] Re: Stratus-List: Coolant temperature sensor ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Andy Fultz" <andynfultz(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Stripped Threads ?
Date: Jul 23, 2011
Have any of you STRATUS guys ever had to deal with stripped threads on any of the case bolts? Bought my engine in 2000 and since got it mounted and ran it on the ground a few times. Started flying June 14, 2011. At 42 hours flight time I noticed an oil leak on the lower right side of the engine, from the front looking aft. The oil was coming from the lower case bolt head. Tried to tighten and it did not tighten. Threads stripped in the case, obviously done at STRATUS when the engine was assembled. Has anybody else had this or similar problems. Planning to install a helicoil, but would you go ahead and helicoil all the case bolts or just hope that none of the others strip on reassembly of the engine? Thanks. Andy F. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry McFarland" <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Subject: Stripped Threads ?
Date: Jul 24, 2011
Andy, I'd only Heli-coil the offending bolt. It's pretty rare that the rest of them need such attention. Most often these strip out because there are too few threads engaged when tightened. Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andy Fultz Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2011 10:33 PM Subject: [Probable Spam] Stratus-List: Stripped Threads ? Have any of you STRATUS guys ever had to deal with stripped threads on any of the case bolts? Bought my engine in 2000 and since got it mounted and ran it on the ground a few times. Started flying June 14, 2011. At 42 hours flight time I noticed an oil leak on the lower right side of the engine, from the front looking aft. The oil was coming from the lower case bolt head. Tried to tighten and it did not tighten. Threads stripped in the case, obviously done at STRATUS when the engine was assembled. Has anybody else had this or similar problems. Planning to install a helicoil, but would you go ahead and helicoil all the case bolts or just hope that none of the others strip on reassembly of the engine? Thanks. Andy F. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 24, 2011
From: Don Walker <d3dw(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Stripped Threads ?
Yeah, Andy, I had the same issue. I just helicoiled the two I discovered an d =0Athat solved it for me.- I think I would test the threads to see how they seem to =0Ahold.- -don 450 hours=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A___________________ _____________=0AFrom: Andy Fultz <andynfultz(at)bellsouth.net>=0ATo: stratus-l ist(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Sat, July 23, 2011 10:33:22 PM=0ASubject: Stratus -List: Stripped Threads ?=0A=0A=0A-=0AHave any of you STRATUS guys ever h ad to deal with stripped threads on any of =0Athe case bolts?- Bought my engine in 2000 and since got it mounted and ran it on =0Athe ground a few t imes.- Started flying June 14, 2011.- At 42 hours flight time =0AI noti ced an oil leak on the lower right side of the engine, from the front =0Alo oking aft.- The oil was coming from the lower case bolt head.- Tried to =0Atighten and it did not tighten.- Threads stripped in the case, obviou sly done at =0ASTRATUS when the engine was assembled.- Has anybody else h ad this or similar =0Aproblems.- Planning to install a helicoil, but woul d you go ahead and helicoil =0Aall the case bolts or just hope that none- of the others strip on reassembly of =0Athe engine?- Thanks.=0A>-=0A>An ================ =0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Andy Fultz" <andynfultz(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Stripped Threads ?
Date: Jul 26, 2011
Thanks Guys for the replies. I will just fix the one I know about now and hope none of the rest are weak. Hopin' to be back in the air soon. Blue skies. Andy F. -----Original Message----- From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Don Walker Sent: Sunday, July 24, 2011 7:52 AM To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: Stratus-List: Stripped Threads ? Yeah, Andy, I had the same issue. I just helicoiled the two I discovered and that solved it for me. I think I would test the threads to see how they seem to hold. don 450 hours ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- -- From: Andy Fultz <andynfultz(at)bellsouth.net> To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sat, July 23, 2011 10:33:22 PM Subject: Stratus-List: Stripped Threads ? Have any of you STRATUS guys ever had to deal with stripped threads on any of the case bolts? Bought my engine in 2000 and since got it mounted and ran it on the ground a few times. Started flying June 14, 2011. At 42 hours flight time I noticed an oil leak on the lower right side of the engine, from the front looking aft. The oil was coming from the lower case bolt head. Tried to tighten and it did not tighten. Threads stripped in the case, obviously done at STRATUS when the engine was assembled. Has anybody else had this or similar problems. Planning to install a helicoil, but would you go ahead and helicoil all the case bolts or just hope that none of the others strip on reassembly of the engine? Thanks. Andy F. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry McFarland" <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Subject: Remote oil filter kit for the Stratus Subaru
Date: Sep 09, 2011
http://www.macsmachine.com/html/journal14.htm http://www.macsmachine.com/html/subaruengine.htm Hi guys, I recently finished the installation for putting the oil filter up front where it gets air within the cowl. The links above will guide you to journal 14. See last entries for descriptive detail for doing the remote oil filter kit. The engine page will show what was done to get the kit installed. If you need further info, of course just ask. Do fly safe, Larry McFarland Zenith 601HDS with Stratus Subaru at www.macsmachine.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry McFarland" <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Subject: Flight Test for a Remote Oil Filter Kit on the Stratus Subaru
Date: Sep 11, 2011
Hi guys, Sept 10 After a Hy-Vee lunch with the guys, I went to the hangar and did a thorough preflight, did take a full 5 quarts to top oil off before startup. The Subaru fired up immediately and I taxied out. Oil temps began at 60 p.s.i. and when warmed went down to 45 p.s.i. Tower cleared me for 10. The lift off was trim-adjusted with no perceptible feel for the weight change up front. I flew south of the control zone to the designated "practice area. Oil temps at 3000 feet reached 228 degrees at 4300 rpm and I progressively brought up the power in 100 rpm increments every 8 minutes or so. CHTs stayed 190 to 200 degrees, EGTs 1380, Coolant 200 and when rpms reached 5100 and airspeed at 128 mph, oil temps never went over 233 degrees. All other temps stayed well in the green. The remote oil filter kit resolved the max temp issues. I stayed on an east west track until I was satisfied that the engine was happy within its full range of operation and then headed back to Moline. Descending at 125 into the pattern was easy, the landing was smooth and I taxied back to the south tees with 175 hours on the engine. The cowl was unbuttoned, the engine was drip-free and oil hoses stayed where they'd been clamped. Pictures are added <http://www.macsmachine.com/html/subaruengine.htm> to the bottom of my engine page that shows the components and installation in greater detail. Very satisfied with this modification! Data was entered into the logs. Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 11, 2011
From: Gary Krysztopik <gkrysztopik(at)satx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Flight Test for a Remote Oil Filter Kit on the Stratus
Subaru Thanks for posting Larry. What would you say the difference is in oil temp - what would the oil temp have been below without the remote filter? Gary Krysztopik ZWheelz, LLC - www.ZWheelz.com Alamo City Electric Auto Association - www.aceaa.org blog - http://voices.mysanantonio.com/drive_electric_san_antonio/ San Antonio, TX On 9/11/2011 10:09 AM, Larry McFarland wrote: > > Hi guys, > > *Sept 10* After a Hy-Vee lunch with the guys, I went to the hangar and > did a thorough preflight, did take a full 5 quarts to top oil off > before startup. The Subaru fired up immediately and I taxied out. Oil > temps began at 60 p.s.i. and when warmed went down to 45 p.s.i. Tower > cleared me for 10. The lift off was trim-adjusted with no perceptible > feel for the weight change up front. I flew south of the control zone > to the designated "practice area. Oil temps at 3000 feet reached 228 > degrees at 4300 rpm and I progressively brought up the power in 100 > rpm increments every 8 minutes or so. CHTs stayed 190 to 200 degrees, > EGTs 1380, Coolant 200 and when rpms reached 5100 and airspeed at 128 > mph, oil temps never went over 233 degrees. All other temps stayed > well in the green. The remote oil filter kit resolved the max temp > issues. I stayed on an east west track until I was satisfied that the > engine was happy within its full range of operation and then headed > back to Moline. Descending at 125 into the pattern was easy, the > landing was smooth and I taxied back to the south tees with 175 hours > on the engine. The cowl was unbuttoned, the engine was drip-free and > oil hoses stayed where they'd been clamped.Pictures are added > <http://www.macsmachine.com/html/subaruengine.htm> to the bottom of my > engine page that shows the components and installation in greater > detail. Very satisfied with this modification! Data was entered into > the logs. > > Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry McFarland" <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Subject: Flight Test for a Remote Oil Filter Kit on the Stratus
Subaru
Date: Sep 11, 2011
Hi Gary, >From my journal, I'd earlier posted; Note: I often think an oil cooler might be a worthwhile addition. I had concern for oil temps that ran as high as 235 degrees F. The manual states 260 is the max oil temp permitted. Flying at 130 mph at 5200 rpm on a hot day of more than 90-degrees, engine oil will eventually reach 250 degrees (my warning set-point on the EIS) so I do back off to 4600 rpm and cruise at 115 to 120 mph. Oil temps will then stay near 235. Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary Krysztopik Sent: Sunday, September 11, 2011 11:00 AM Subject: Re: Stratus-List: Flight Test for a Remote Oil Filter Kit on the Stratus Subaru Thanks for posting Larry. What would you say the difference is in oil temp - what would the oil temp have been below without the remote filter? Gary Krysztopik ZWheelz, LLC - www.ZWheelz.com Alamo City Electric Auto Association - www.aceaa.org blog - http://voices.mysanantonio.com/drive_electric_san_antonio/ San Antonio, TX On 9/11/2011 10:09 AM, Larry McFarland wrote: Hi guys, Sept 10 After a Hy-Vee lunch with the guys, I went to the hangar and did a thorough preflight, did take a full 5 quarts to top oil off before startup. The Subaru fired up immediately and I taxied out. Oil temps began at 60 p.s.i. and when warmed went down to 45 p.s.i. Tower cleared me for 10. The lift off was trim-adjusted with no perceptible feel for the weight change up front. I flew south of the control zone to the designated "practice area. Oil temps at 3000 feet reached 228 degrees at 4300 rpm and I progressively brought up the power in 100 rpm increments every 8 minutes or so. CHTs stayed 190 to 200 degrees, EGTs 1380, Coolant 200 and when rpms reached 5100 and airspeed at 128 mph, oil temps never went over 233 degrees. All other temps stayed well in the green. The remote oil filter kit resolved the max temp issues. I stayed on an east west track until I was satisfied that the engine was happy within its full range of operation and then headed back to Moline. Descending at 125 into the pattern was easy, the landing was smooth and I taxied back to the south tees with 175 hours on the engine. The cowl was unbuttoned, the engine was drip-free and oil hoses stayed where they'd been clamped. Pictures are added <http://www.macsmachine.com/html/subaruengine.htm> to the bottom of my engine page that shows the components and installation in greater detail. Very satisfied with this modification! Data was entered into the logs. Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 11, 2011
From: Gary Krysztopik <gkrysztopik(at)satx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Flight Test for a Remote Oil Filter Kit on the Stratus
Subaru Was it also 90+ degrees? If so, you went from about 250 to 233 degrees at around 130 mph and 5200 rpm. That's much more significant than I would have guessed for just a remote filter. I like where you mounted it, perfect spot with plenty of room and great airflow. Nice work, thanks. Gary Krysztopik ZWheelz, LLC - www.ZWheelz.com Alamo City Electric Auto Association - www.aceaa.org blog - http://voices.mysanantonio.com/drive_electric_san_antonio/ San Antonio, TX On 9/11/2011 11:29 AM, Larry McFarland wrote: > > Hi Gary, > > From my journal, I'd earlier posted; > > Note: I often think an oil cooler might be a worthwhile addition. > I had concern for oil temps that ran as high as 235 degrees F. The > manual states 260 is the max oil temp permitted. Flying at 130 mph at > 5200 rpm on a hot day of more than 90-degrees, engine oil will > eventually reach 250 degrees (my warning set-point on the EIS) so I do > back off to 4600 rpm and cruise at 115 to 120 mph. Oil temps will then > stay near 235. > > Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com > > *From:*owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Gary > Krysztopik > *Sent:* Sunday, September 11, 2011 11:00 AM > *To:* stratus-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* Re: Stratus-List: Flight Test for a Remote Oil Filter Kit > on the Stratus Subaru > > Thanks for posting Larry. What would you say the difference is in oil > temp - what would the oil temp have been below without the remote filter? > > Gary Krysztopik > ZWheelz, LLC -www.ZWheelz.com <http://www.ZWheelz.com> > Alamo City Electric Auto Association -www.aceaa.org <http://www.aceaa.org> > blog -http://voices.mysanantonio.com/drive_electric_san_antonio/ > San Antonio, TX > > > On 9/11/2011 10:09 AM, Larry McFarland wrote: > > Hi guys, > > *Sept 10* After a Hy-Vee lunch with the guys, I went to the hangar and > did a thorough preflight, did take a full 5 quarts to top oil off > before startup. The Subaru fired up immediately and I taxied out. Oil > temps began at 60 p.s.i. and when warmed went down to 45 p.s.i. Tower > cleared me for 10. The lift off was trim-adjusted with no perceptible > feel for the weight change up front. I flew south of the control zone > to the designated "practice area. Oil temps at 3000 feet reached 228 > degrees at 4300 rpm and I progressively brought up the power in 100 > rpm increments every 8 minutes or so. CHTs stayed 190 to 200 degrees, > EGTs 1380, Coolant 200 and when rpms reached 5100 and airspeed at 128 > mph, oil temps never went over 233 degrees. All other temps stayed > well in the green. The remote oil filter kit resolved the max temp > issues. I stayed on an east west track until I was satisfied that the > engine was happy within its full range of operation and then headed > back to Moline. Descending at 125 into the pattern was easy, the > landing was smooth and I taxied back to the south tees with 175 hours > on the engine. The cowl was unbuttoned, the engine was drip-free and > oil hoses stayed where they'd been clamped.Pictures are added > <http://www.macsmachine.com/html/subaruengine.htm> to the bottom of my > engine page that shows the components and installation in greater > detail. Very satisfied with this modification! Data was entered into > the logs. > > Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com > <http://www.macsmachine.com> > > * * > * * > * * > * * > ========================http://www.matro===================http://forums.matronics.com - List Contribution Web generous nbsp; --> http://www.matronics.com/c= > * * <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> > <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry McFarland" <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Subject: Flight Test for a Remote Oil Filter Kit on the Stratus
Subaru
Date: Sep 11, 2011
Both days were in the mid-80s. I'm sure the temps were 4 or 5 degrees cooler Yesterday, so the advantage was realistically more like 10-degrees or better. Sure is easier to access. I'll have to watch the bracket for any signs of fatigue. It feels solid, but must stay that way to avoid cracking anything, lugs etc. I designed the piece so the small rod welds will be the first to show fatigue, should that occur. Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary Krysztopik Sent: Sunday, September 11, 2011 1:20 PM Subject: Re: Stratus-List: Flight Test for a Remote Oil Filter Kit on the Stratus Subaru Was it also 90+ degrees? If so, you went from about 250 to 233 degrees at around 130 mph and 5200 rpm. That's much more significant than I would have guessed for just a remote filter. I like where you mounted it, perfect spot with plenty of room and great airflow. Nice work, thanks. Gary Krysztopik ZWheelz, LLC - www.ZWheelz.com Alamo City Electric Auto Association - www.aceaa.org blog - http://voices.mysanantonio.com/drive_electric_san_antonio/ San Antonio, TX On 9/11/2011 11:29 AM, Larry McFarland wrote: Hi Gary, >From my journal, I'd earlier posted; Note: I often think an oil cooler might be a worthwhile addition. I had concern for oil temps that ran as high as 235 degrees F. The manual states 260 is the max oil temp permitted. Flying at 130 mph at 5200 rpm on a hot day of more than 90-degrees, engine oil will eventually reach 250 degrees (my warning set-point on the EIS) so I do back off to 4600 rpm and cruise at 115 to 120 mph. Oil temps will then stay near 235. Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary Krysztopik Sent: Sunday, September 11, 2011 11:00 AM Subject: Re: Stratus-List: Flight Test for a Remote Oil Filter Kit on the Stratus Subaru Thanks for posting Larry. What would you say the difference is in oil temp - what would the oil temp have been below without the remote filter? Gary Krysztopik ZWheelz, LLC - www.ZWheelz.com Alamo City Electric Auto Association - www.aceaa.org blog - http://voices.mysanantonio.com/drive_electric_san_antonio/ San Antonio, TX On 9/11/2011 10:09 AM, Larry McFarland wrote: Hi guys, Sept 10 After a Hy-Vee lunch with the guys, I went to the hangar and did a thorough preflight, did take a full 5 quarts to top oil off before startup. The Subaru fired up immediately and I taxied out. Oil temps began at 60 p.s.i. and when warmed went down to 45 p.s.i. Tower cleared me for 10. The lift off was trim-adjusted with no perceptible feel for the weight change up front. I flew south of the control zone to the designated "practice area. Oil temps at 3000 feet reached 228 degrees at 4300 rpm and I progressively brought up the power in 100 rpm increments every 8 minutes or so. CHTs stayed 190 to 200 degrees, EGTs 1380, Coolant 200 and when rpms reached 5100 and airspeed at 128 mph, oil temps never went over 233 degrees. All other temps stayed well in the green. The remote oil filter kit resolved the max temp issues. I stayed on an east west track until I was satisfied that the engine was happy within its full range of operation and then headed back to Moline. Descending at 125 into the pattern was easy, the landing was smooth and I taxied back to the south tees with 175 hours on the engine. The cowl was unbuttoned, the engine was drip-free and oil hoses stayed where they'd been clamped. Pictures are added <http://www.macsmachine.com/html/subaruengine.htm> to the bottom of my engine page that shows the components and installation in greater detail. Very satisfied with this modification! Data was entered into the logs. Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com ========================="" http://www.matro=================== -="" matronics="" web="" forums="" via="" the="" ="" -->="" http://forums.matronics.com - List Contribution Web generous nbsp; --> http://www.matronics.com/c= <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> Email Forum - Navigator to browse List Un/Subscription, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Stratus-List ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Andy Fultz" <andynfultz(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: HeliCoils and Stratus Subaru Vibration
Date: Sep 13, 2011
I know this got long guys, but I need some input. Thanks in advance for your time. How many of you have had to install HELICOILS in your engine? Here's my story: I purchased my Strauts EA-81 engine nearly 10 years ago, but have only recently finished and started flying my plane (AVID Flyer)on June 14, 2011. At 43 hours I noticed oil leaking from around the lower front left case bolt. OK, I'll tighten it up. Didn't happen as it had already stripped the threads from the right case half. This required removing the engine tearing it down and putting a helicoil in the case (per Mykal Templeman. So I tear it down install the helicoil and then start to reassemble. Another one strips before getting even snug thight. Split the case and install helicoil #2 in the case. Finally got the case halves back together and torqued to Mykal's specs. Now I'm reinstalling the head and one of the head studs pulls out before geting good snug. Damn it! So I remove the head, go to the parts store and had to order 11mm 1.25 helicoils. Two days later I install the helicoil #3 for the head stud and am about to get this thing back together when one of the rocker arm assembly bolts strips out. Damn it again! The head comes back off and in goes helicoil #4. Finally all is good, all bolts torque to Mykal's specs and the engine is finally completely reassembled and reinstalled. Valves are readjusted and engine is test run. All is good. Fly the next afternoon and everything seems to be ok. Since then, I have put on a total of 80.7 hours when trouble rears its nasty little head again. This past Saturday 9/10/11, I decided to fly to an airport 50 miles away to see a friend and have lunch. All seems well on arrival, but when I shut down and opened the door I smelled oil on the exhaust. When I got out I could see oil dripping from the cowling and and all over the bottom of the plane. Looking in the cowl openings I can see the I'm missing a valve-cover bolt. NO problem, right? Just find another bolt and rubber gasket material to get me home after a wash down to get all the oil out of the cowl and off the engine. Didn't lose but about a pint of oil (and a pint makes a huge mess). Found a bolt and put it in but it didn't seem to want tighten up but got snug enough. Started the engine to taxi to a friends hangar to clean it up and the engine was missing and running horribly. Taxied just a little ways and shut it down. Checked plugs, wires, distributor and all else external that might cause the missing. Nothing found. Degreased and washed it down. Started it again and still running bad on both ignitions. Got out and started looking for the cool spots on the engine. Entire left side cool, but #2 cyl cooler than all others. Removed valve cover on left side and found the forward bolt on the rocker-arm assembly had backed out over .25" and when I reinstalled the missing valve cover bolt it had caused the rocker-arm assembly to pull away form the head and caused one of the lifter pushrods to fall loose from its seat in the rocker arm. Remember the back bolt here already has a helicoil installed. OK, let's get the pushrod back in place and retorque the rocker-arm assembly bolts. Borrowed a socket, ratchet and torque wrench. With the socket on the ratchet, I started to run the bolt back down and it would not tighten up enough to even start using the torque wrench. DAMN IT AGAIN!! NOthing left to do now but hitch a ride home, load up my tools and come back for helicoil #5. Had to order another head gasket which came in today, so I took off work drove back over to the plane and went to work. Removed the head, installed the helicoil and started to reassemble when yet another head stud pulled out at 30 ft lbs. (Mykal Templeman says these should be torqued to 48-50 ft. lbs.) DAMN IT YET AGAIN! Off comes the head and in goes helicoil #6. YES #6 so far and all on the same side. Finally it goes back together and all are torqued to 48 ft. lbs. Installed new coolant and oil and test ran engine on ground. All seems good so we let it cool while we went to get a burger. Got back to the airport, checked fluids and went up for a test flight. Ran good, so after a brief time on the ground I took off and headed out for a 36 minute uneventful flight home. About two hours after I got home, I decided to go up again and now I'm feeling that same vibration starting to develope that I noticed before the last problem with the rocker-arm bolt. Maybe it's just me, but I decowled it and will wait till tomorrow afternoon to remove the valve covers and check the valve clearance again. Could be that, could be that the timing is a little off or the carbs may need balancing, but I can't get Mykal to reply to my e-mail pleas for for him to call or give me a number he can be reached at to help me. I have no idea how to check the timing or what the best procedure is to check the carbs for balance. My vibration is between 975-1075 rpm and at 2050-2200rpm and around 4050 rpm. Sounds harmonic, but the prop has been checked and it is so close to perfectly balanced I left it alone. My spinner, which is a UHS spinner, is not perfectly centered and does have a noticable wobble. I'm just looking for some input. I've already tried moving the prop one hole and that did very little, if any at all, to allieviate any felt vibration. Thanks guys. BTW, I'm now at 83 hours total time on the engine. Andy Fultz AVID Extended Speedwing and Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Andy Fultz" <andynfultz(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Flight Test for a Remote Oil Filter Kit on the Stratus
Subaru
Date: Sep 13, 2011
-----Original Message----- From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry McFarland Sent: Sunday, September 11, 2011 10:10 AM To: stratus-list; zenith601-list Subject: Stratus-List: Flight Test for a Remote Oil Filter Kit on the Stratus Subaru Hi guys, Sept 10 After a Hy-Vee lunch with the guys, I went to the hangar and did a thorough preflight, did take a full 5 quarts to top oil off before startup. The Subaru fired up immediately and I taxied out. Oil temps began at 60 p.s.i. and when warmed went down to 45 p.s.i. Tower cleared me for 10. The lift off was trim-adjusted with no perceptible feel for the weight change up front. I flew south of the control zone to the designated "practice area. Oil temps at 3000 feet reached 228 degrees at 4300 rpm and I progressively brought up the power in 100 rpm increments every 8 minutes or so. CHTs stayed 190 to 200 degrees, EGTs 1380, Coolant 200 and when rpms reached 5100 and airspeed at 128 mph, oil temps never went over 233 degrees. All other temps stayed well in the green. The remote oil filter kit resolved the max temp issues. I stayed on an east west track until I was satisfied that the engine was happy within its full range of operation and then headed back to Moline. Descending at 125 into the pattern was easy, the landing was smooth and I taxied back to the south tees with 175 hours on the engine. The cowl was unbuttoned, the engine was drip-free and oil hoses stayed where they'd been clamped. Pictures are added to the bottom of my engine page that shows the components and installation in greater detail. Very satisfied with this modification! Data was entered into the logs. Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 14, 2011
From: Gary Krysztopik <gkrysztopik(at)satx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: HeliCoils and Stratus Subaru Vibration
I never had to install helicoils in my Stratus. I have not had any problems like you have, other than a weeping seal on the crankshaft behind the PSRU. Sorry to hear this, sounds like a lot of problems. Gary Krysztopik ZWheelz, LLC - www.ZWheelz.com Alamo City Electric Auto Association - www.aceaa.org blog - http://voices.mysanantonio.com/drive_electric_san_antonio/ San Antonio, TX On 9/13/2011 11:18 PM, Andy Fultz wrote: > > *I know this got long guys, but I need some input. Thanks in > advance for your time.* > ** > *How many of you have had to install HELICOILS in your engine? > Here's my story:* > ** > * I purchased my Strauts EA-81 engine nearly 10 years ago, but > have only recently finished and started flying my plane (AVID > Flyer)on June 14, 2011. At 43 hours I noticed oil leaking from > around the lower front left case bolt. OK, I'll tighten it up. > Didn't happen as it had already stripped the threads from the > right case half. This required removing the engine tearing it > down and putting a helicoil in the case (per Mykal Templeman. So > I tear it down install the helicoil and then start to reassemble. > Another one strips before getting even snug thight. Split the > case and install helicoil #2 in the case. Finally got the case > halves back together and torqued to Mykal's specs. Now I'm > reinstalling the head and one of the head studs pulls out before > geting good snug. Damn it! So I remove the head, go to the parts > store and had to order 11mm 1.25 helicoils. Two days later I > install the helicoil #3 for the head stud and am about to get this > thing back together when one of the rocker arm assembly bolts > strips out. Damn it again! The head comes back off and in goes > helicoil #4. Finally all is good, all bolts torque to Mykal's > specs and the engine is finally completely reassembled and > reinstalled. Valves are readjusted and engine is test run. All > is good. Fly the next afternoon and everything seems to be ok. > Since then, I have put on a total of 80.7 hours when trouble rears > its nasty little head again. * > * This past Saturday 9/10/11, I decided to fly to an airport 50 > miles away to see a friend and have lunch. All seems well on > arrival, but when I shut down and opened the door I smelled oil on > the exhaust. When I got out I could see oil dripping from the > cowling and and all over the bottom of the plane. Looking in the > cowl openings I can see the I'm missing a valve-cover bolt. NO > problem, right? Just find another bolt and rubber gasket material > to get me home after a wash down to get all the oil out of the > cowl and off the engine. Didn't lose but about a pint of oil (and > a pint makes a huge mess). Found a bolt and put it in but it > didn't seem to want tighten up but got snug enough. Started the > engine to taxi to a friends hangar to clean it up and the engine > was missing and running horribly. Taxied just a little ways and > shut it down. Checked plugs, wires, distributor and all else > external that might cause the missing. Nothing found. Degreased > and washed it down. Started it again and still running bad on both > ignitions. Got out and started looking for the cool spots on the > engine. Entire left side cool, but #2 cyl cooler than all others. > Removed valve cover on left side and found the forward bolt on the > rocker-arm assembly had backed out over .25" and when I > reinstalled the missing valve cover bolt it had caused the > rocker-arm assembly to pull away form the head and caused one of > the lifter pushrods to fall loose from its seat in the rocker > arm. Remember the back bolt here already has a helicoil > installed. OK, let's get the pushrod back in place and retorque > the rocker-arm assembly bolts. Borrowed a socket, ratchet and > torque wrench. With the socket on the ratchet, I started to run > the bolt back down and it would not tighten up enough to even > start using the torque wrench. DAMN IT AGAIN!! NOthing left to do > now but hitch a ride home, load up my tools and come back for > helicoil #5. Had to order another head gasket which came in > today, so I took off work drove back over to the plane and went to > work. Removed the head, installed the helicoil and started to > reassemble when yet another head stud pulled out at 30 ft lbs. > (Mykal Templeman says these should be torqued to 48-50 ft. lbs.) > DAMN IT YET AGAIN! Off comes the head and in goes helicoil #6. > YES #6 so far and all on the same side. Finally it goes back > together and all are torqued to 48 ft. lbs. Installed new coolant > and oil and test ran engine on ground. All seems good so we let > it cool while we went to get a burger. Got back to the airport, > checked fluids and went up for a test flight. Ran good, so after > a brief time on the ground I took off and headed out for a 36 > minute uneventful flight home. * > * About two hours after I got home, I decided to go up again and > now I'm feeling that same vibration starting to develope that I > noticed before the last problem with the rocker-arm bolt. Maybe > it's just me, but I decowled it and will wait till tomorrow > afternoon to remove the valve covers and check the valve clearance > again. Could be that, could be that the timing is a little off or > the carbs may need balancing, but I can't get Mykal to reply to my > e-mail pleas for for him to call or give me a number he can be > reached at to help me. I have no idea how to check the timing or > what the best procedure is to check the carbs for balance.* > * My vibration is between 975-1075 rpm and at 2050-2200rpm and > around 4050 rpm. Sounds harmonic, but the prop has been checked > and it is so close to perfectly balanced I left it alone. My > spinner, which is a UHS spinner, is not perfectly centered and > does have a noticable wobble. I'm just looking for some input. > I've already tried moving the prop one hole and that did very > little, if any at all, to allieviate any felt vibration. Thanks > guys. BTW, I'm now at 83 hours total time on the engine.* > ** > *Andy Fultz* > *AVID Extended Speedwing and Fuselage * > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry McFarland" <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Subject: HeliCoils and Stratus Subaru Vibration
Date: Sep 14, 2011
Andy, I found and use a good advance-dial-induction type timing-light obtained from Harbor Freight. See link, http://www.harborfreight.com/timing-light-with-advance-40963.html Instructions provided will get you to the setting needed for 32 degrees before top dead center. Very nice to have and is easy to use. Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andy Fultz Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2011 11:18 PM Subject: Stratus-List: HeliCoils and Stratus Subaru Vibration I know this got long guys, but I need some input. Thanks in advance for your time. How many of you have had to install HELICOILS in your engine? Here's my story: I purchased my Strauts EA-81 engine nearly 10 years ago, but have only recently finished and started flying my plane (AVID Flyer)on June 14, 2011. At 43 hours I noticed oil leaking from around the lower front left case bolt. OK, I'll tighten it up. Didn't happen as it had already stripped the threads from the right case half. This required removing the engine tearing it down and putting a helicoil in the case (per Mykal Templeman. So I tear it down install the helicoil and then start to reassemble. Another one strips before getting even snug thight. Split the case and install helicoil #2 in the case. Finally got the case halves back together and torqued to Mykal's specs. Now I'm reinstalling the head and one of the head studs pulls out before geting good snug. Damn it! So I remove the head, go to the parts store and had to order 11mm 1.25 helicoils. Two days later I install the helicoil #3 for the head stud and am about to get this thing back together when one of the rocker arm assembly bolts strips out. Damn it again! The head comes back off and in goes helicoil #4. Finally all is good, all bolts torque to Mykal's specs and the engine is finally completely reassembled and reinstalled. Valves are readjusted and engine is test run. All is good. Fly the next afternoon and everything seems to be ok. Since then, I have put on a total of 80.7 hours when trouble rears its nasty little head again. This past Saturday 9/10/11, I decided to fly to an airport 50 miles away to see a friend and have lunch. All seems well on arrival, but when I shut down and opened the door I smelled oil on the exhaust. When I got out I could see oil dripping from the cowling and and all over the bottom of the plane. Looking in the cowl openings I can see the I'm missing a valve-cover bolt. NO problem, right? Just find another bolt and rubber gasket material to get me home after a wash down to get all the oil out of the cowl and off the engine. Didn't lose but about a pint of oil (and a pint makes a huge mess). Found a bolt and put it in but it didn't seem to want tighten up but got snug enough. Started the engine to taxi to a friends hangar to clean it up and the engine was missing and running horribly. Taxied just a little ways and shut it down. Checked plugs, wires, distributor and all else external that might cause the missing. Nothing found. Degreased and washed it down. Started it again and still running bad on both ignitions. Got out and started looking for the cool spots on the engine. Entire left side cool, but #2 cyl cooler than all others. Removed valve cover on left side and found the forward bolt on the rocker-arm assembly had backed out over .25" and when I reinstalled the missing valve cover bolt it had caused the rocker-arm assembly to pull away form the head and caused one of the lifter pushrods to fall loose from its seat in the rocker arm. Remember the back bolt here already has a helicoil installed. OK, let's get the pushrod back in place and retorque the rocker-arm assembly bolts. Borrowed a socket, ratchet and torque wrench. With the socket on the ratchet, I started to run the bolt back down and it would not tighten up enough to even start using the torque wrench. DAMN IT AGAIN!! NOthing left to do now but hitch a ride home, load up my tools and come back for helicoil #5. Had to order another head gasket which came in today, so I took off work drove back over to the plane and went to work. Removed the head, installed the helicoil and started to reassemble when yet another head stud pulled out at 30 ft lbs. (Mykal Templeman says these should be torqued to 48-50 ft. lbs.) DAMN IT YET AGAIN! Off comes the head and in goes helicoil #6. YES #6 so far and all on the same side. Finally it goes back together and all are torqued to 48 ft. lbs. Installed new coolant and oil and test ran engine on ground. All seems good so we let it cool while we went to get a burger. Got back to the airport, checked fluids and went up for a test flight. Ran good, so after a brief time on the ground I took off and headed out for a 36 minute uneventful flight home. About two hours after I got home, I decided to go up again and now I'm feeling that same vibration starting to develope that I noticed before the last problem with the rocker-arm bolt. Maybe it's just me, but I decowled it and will wait till tomorrow afternoon to remove the valve covers and check the valve clearance again. Could be that, could be that the timing is a little off or the carbs may need balancing, but I can't get Mykal to reply to my e-mail pleas for for him to call or give me a number he can be reached at to help me. I have no idea how to check the timing or what the best procedure is to check the carbs for balance. My vibration is between 975-1075 rpm and at 2050-2200rpm and around 4050 rpm. Sounds harmonic, but the prop has been checked and it is so close to perfectly balanced I left it alone. My spinner, which is a UHS spinner, is not perfectly centered and does have a noticable wobble. I'm just looking for some input. I've already tried moving the prop one hole and that did very little, if any at all, to allieviate any felt vibration. Thanks guys. BTW, I'm now at 83 hours total time on the engine. Andy Fultz AVID Extended Speedwing and Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 14, 2011
From: ANDY N FULTZ <andynfultz(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: HeliCoils and Stratus Subaru Vibration
Larry, what I need to know is where to point the light :-) >Andy, > >I found and use a good advance-dial-induction type timing-light obtained >from Harbor Freight. > >See link, >http://www.harborfreight.com/timing-light-with-advance-40963.html > >Instructions provided will get you to the setting needed for 32 degrees >before top dead center. > >Very nice to have and is easy to use. > > > >Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com > > > > > >From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andy Fultz >Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2011 11:18 PM >To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Stratus-List: HeliCoils and Stratus Subaru Vibration > > > > > >I know this got long guys, but I need some input. Thanks in advance for >your time. > > > >How many of you have had to install HELICOILS in your engine? Here's my >story: > > > > I purchased my Strauts EA-81 engine nearly 10 years ago, but have only >recently finished and started flying my plane (AVID Flyer)on June 14, 2011. >At 43 hours I noticed oil leaking from around the lower front left case >bolt. OK, I'll tighten it up. Didn't happen as it had already stripped the >threads from the right case half. This required removing the engine tearing >it down and putting a helicoil in the case (per Mykal Templeman. So I tear >it down install the helicoil and then start to reassemble. Another one >strips before getting even snug thight. Split the case and install helicoil >#2 in the case. Finally got the case halves back together and torqued to >Mykal's specs. Now I'm reinstalling the head and one of the head studs >pulls out before geting good snug. Damn it! So I remove the head, go to >the parts store and had to order 11mm 1.25 helicoils. Two days later I >install the helicoil #3 for the head stud and am about to get this thing >back together when one of the rocker arm assembly bolts strips out. Damn it >again! The head comes back off and in goes helicoil #4. Finally all is >good, all bolts torque to Mykal's specs and the engine is finally completely >reassembled and reinstalled. Valves are readjusted and engine is test run. >All is good. Fly the next afternoon and everything seems to be ok. Since >then, I have put on a total of 80.7 hours when trouble rears its nasty >little head again. > > This past Saturday 9/10/11, I decided to fly to an airport 50 miles away >to see a friend and have lunch. All seems well on arrival, but when I shut >down and opened the door I smelled oil on the exhaust. When I got out I >could see oil dripping from the cowling and and all over the bottom of the >plane. Looking in the cowl openings I can see the I'm missing a valve-cover >bolt. NO problem, right? Just find another bolt and rubber gasket material >to get me home after a wash down to get all the oil out of the cowl and off >the engine. Didn't lose but about a pint of oil (and a pint makes a huge >mess). Found a bolt and put it in but it didn't seem to want tighten up but >got snug enough. Started the engine to taxi to a friends hangar to clean it >up and the engine was missing and running horribly. Taxied just a little >ways and shut it down. Checked plugs, wires, distributor and all else >external that might cause the missing. Nothing found. Degreased and washed >it down. Started it again and still running bad on both ignitions. Got out >and started looking for the cool spots on the engine. Entire left side cool, >but #2 cyl cooler than all others. Removed valve cover on left side and >found the forward bolt on the rocker-arm assembly had backed out over .25" >and when I reinstalled the missing valve cover bolt it had caused the >rocker-arm assembly to pull away form the head and caused one of the lifter >pushrods to fall loose from its seat in the rocker arm. Remember the back >bolt here already has a helicoil installed. OK, let's get the pushrod back >in place and retorque the rocker-arm assembly bolts. Borrowed a socket, >ratchet and torque wrench. With the socket on the ratchet, I started to run >the bolt back down and it would not tighten up enough to even start using >the torque wrench. DAMN IT AGAIN!! NOthing left to do now but hitch a ride >home, load up my tools and come back for helicoil #5. Had to order another >head gasket which came in today, so I took off work drove back over to the >plane and went to work. Removed the head, installed the helicoil and >started to reassemble when yet another head stud pulled out at 30 ft lbs. >(Mykal Templeman says these should be torqued to 48-50 ft. lbs.) DAMN IT >YET AGAIN! Off comes the head and in goes helicoil #6. YES #6 so far and >all on the same side. Finally it goes back together and all are torqued to >48 ft. lbs. Installed new coolant and oil and test ran engine on ground. >All seems good so we let it cool while we went to get a burger. Got back to >the airport, checked fluids and went up for a test flight. Ran good, so >after a brief time on the ground I took off and headed out for a 36 minute >uneventful flight home. > > About two hours after I got home, I decided to go up again and now I'm >feeling that same vibration starting to develope that I noticed before the >last problem with the rocker-arm bolt. Maybe it's just me, but I decowled >it and will wait till tomorrow afternoon to remove the valve covers and >check the valve clearance again. Could be that, could be that the timing is >a little off or the carbs may need balancing, but I can't get Mykal to reply >to my e-mail pleas for for him to call or give me a number he can be reached >at to help me. I have no idea how to check the timing or what the best >procedure is to check the carbs for balance. > > My vibration is between 975-1075 rpm and at 2050-2200rpm and around 4050 >rpm. Sounds harmonic, but the prop has been checked and it is so close to >perfectly balanced I left it alone. My spinner, which is a UHS spinner, is >not perfectly centered and does have a noticable wobble. I'm just looking >for some input. I've already tried moving the prop one hole and that did >very little, if any at all, to allieviate any felt vibration. Thanks guys. >BTW, I'm now at 83 hours total time on the engine. > > > >Andy Fultz > >AVID Extended Speedwing and Fuselage > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry McFarland" <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Subject: HeliCoils and Stratus Subaru Vibration
Date: Sep 14, 2011
Andy, On the EA81, the crank shaft seen at the rear of the engine, there's a timing mark on the large diameter and perhaps too on the end face that passes the top dead center point on the crankcase. Check out the link below to see the manual for this timing light. It is illustrated and details the process. http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/40000-40999/40963.pdf Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ANDY N FULTZ Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2011 2:01 PM Subject: [Probable Spam] RE: Stratus-List: HeliCoils and Stratus Subaru Vibration --> Larry, what I need to know is where to point the light :-) >Andy, > >I found and use a good advance-dial-induction type timing-light >obtained from Harbor Freight. > >See link, >http://www.harborfreight.com/timing-light-with-advance-40963.html > >Instructions provided will get you to the setting needed for 32 degrees >before top dead center. > >Very nice to have and is easy to use. > > > >Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com > > > > > >From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andy >Fultz >Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2011 11:18 PM >To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Stratus-List: HeliCoils and Stratus Subaru Vibration > > > > > >I know this got long guys, but I need some input. Thanks in advance >for your time. > > > >How many of you have had to install HELICOILS in your engine? Here's >my >story: > > > > I purchased my Strauts EA-81 engine nearly 10 years ago, but have >only recently finished and started flying my plane (AVID Flyer)on June 14, 2011. >At 43 hours I noticed oil leaking from around the lower front left case >bolt. OK, I'll tighten it up. Didn't happen as it had already >stripped the threads from the right case half. This required removing >the engine tearing it down and putting a helicoil in the case (per >Mykal Templeman. So I tear it down install the helicoil and then start >to reassemble. Another one strips before getting even snug thight. >Split the case and install helicoil >#2 in the case. Finally got the case halves back together and torqued >to Mykal's specs. Now I'm reinstalling the head and one of the head >studs pulls out before geting good snug. Damn it! So I remove the >head, go to the parts store and had to order 11mm 1.25 helicoils. Two >days later I install the helicoil #3 for the head stud and am about to >get this thing back together when one of the rocker arm assembly bolts >strips out. Damn it again! The head comes back off and in goes >helicoil #4. Finally all is good, all bolts torque to Mykal's specs >and the engine is finally completely reassembled and reinstalled. Valves are readjusted and engine is test run. >All is good. Fly the next afternoon and everything seems to be ok. >Since then, I have put on a total of 80.7 hours when trouble rears its >nasty little head again. > > This past Saturday 9/10/11, I decided to fly to an airport 50 miles >away to see a friend and have lunch. All seems well on arrival, but >when I shut down and opened the door I smelled oil on the exhaust. >When I got out I could see oil dripping from the cowling and and all >over the bottom of the plane. Looking in the cowl openings I can see >the I'm missing a valve-cover bolt. NO problem, right? Just find >another bolt and rubber gasket material to get me home after a wash >down to get all the oil out of the cowl and off the engine. Didn't >lose but about a pint of oil (and a pint makes a huge mess). Found a >bolt and put it in but it didn't seem to want tighten up but got snug >enough. Started the engine to taxi to a friends hangar to clean it up >and the engine was missing and running horribly. Taxied just a little >ways and shut it down. Checked plugs, wires, distributor and all else >external that might cause the missing. Nothing found. Degreased and >washed it down. Started it again and still running bad on both >ignitions. Got out and started looking for the cool spots on the >engine. Entire left side cool, but #2 cyl cooler than all others. Removed valve cover on left side and found the forward bolt on the rocker-arm assembly had backed out over .25" >and when I reinstalled the missing valve cover bolt it had caused the >rocker-arm assembly to pull away form the head and caused one of the >lifter pushrods to fall loose from its seat in the rocker arm. >Remember the back bolt here already has a helicoil installed. OK, >let's get the pushrod back in place and retorque the rocker-arm >assembly bolts. Borrowed a socket, ratchet and torque wrench. With >the socket on the ratchet, I started to run the bolt back down and it >would not tighten up enough to even start using the torque wrench. DAMN >IT AGAIN!! NOthing left to do now but hitch a ride home, load up my >tools and come back for helicoil #5. Had to order another head gasket >which came in today, so I took off work drove back over to the plane >and went to work. Removed the head, installed the helicoil and started to reassemble when yet another head stud pulled out at 30 ft lbs. >(Mykal Templeman says these should be torqued to 48-50 ft. lbs.) DAMN IT >YET AGAIN! Off comes the head and in goes helicoil #6. YES #6 so far and >all on the same side. Finally it goes back together and all are >torqued to >48 ft. lbs. Installed new coolant and oil and test ran engine on ground. >All seems good so we let it cool while we went to get a burger. Got >back to the airport, checked fluids and went up for a test flight. Ran >good, so after a brief time on the ground I took off and headed out for >a 36 minute uneventful flight home. > > About two hours after I got home, I decided to go up again and now >I'm feeling that same vibration starting to develope that I noticed >before the last problem with the rocker-arm bolt. Maybe it's just me, >but I decowled it and will wait till tomorrow afternoon to remove the >valve covers and check the valve clearance again. Could be that, could >be that the timing is a little off or the carbs may need balancing, but >I can't get Mykal to reply to my e-mail pleas for for him to call or >give me a number he can be reached at to help me. I have no idea how >to check the timing or what the best procedure is to check the carbs for balance. > > My vibration is between 975-1075 rpm and at 2050-2200rpm and around >4050 rpm. Sounds harmonic, but the prop has been checked and it is so >close to perfectly balanced I left it alone. My spinner, which is a >UHS spinner, is not perfectly centered and does have a noticable >wobble. I'm just looking for some input. I've already tried moving the prop one hole and that did >very little, if any at all, to allieviate any felt vibration. Thanks guys. >BTW, I'm now at 83 hours total time on the engine. > > > >Andy Fultz > >AVID Extended Speedwing and Fuselage > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 16, 2011
From: "P.H. Raker" <n556p(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Fw: Special Airworthiness Information Bulletin (SAIB)
--- Attached is information via a SAIB regarding the use of 100VLL fuel in airc raft. - ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com>
Subject: Fw: Special Airworthiness Information Bulletin (SAIB)
Date: Sep 16, 2011
Well it's a step in the right direction at least. Frank From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-se rver(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of P.H. Raker Sent: Friday, September 16, 2011 1:05 PM Subject: Stratus-List: Fw: Special Airworthiness Information Bulletin (SAIB ) --- Attached is information via a SAIB regarding the use of 100VLL fuel in airc raft. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Andy Fultz" <andynfultz(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Thermostat ?
Date: Oct 31, 2011
Anybody know where I can get a replacement thermostat for my STRATUS EA-81 engine. I don't think mine is functioning properly. It seems to be sticking open for a while and as of late I think it's sticking closed. Can't seem to make up its mind what it wants to do. Sometimes it will function somewhat properly. Today on a short flight I could tell it was working as it should then toward the end of the flight it stuck closed again. Thanks. Andy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2011
From: "billvt1(at)gmail.com" <billvt1(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Thermostat ?
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2011
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: PLEASE READ - 2011 List Fund Raiser Kickoff - 21 Years Strong!!
Dear Listers, This year marks 21 years of the Email Lists and Forums at Matronics! I've been running these forums for nearly half my life! I've made some great friends over the years and had countless email and personal conversations with builders about aircraft building and flying. What a great community of people! The advice, support, and friendship has be invaluable over the years. To support the continued operation and upgrade of the List servers, each November I hold a PBS-like fund raiser. It is solely through the Contributions of List members that these Matronics Lists are possible. There is NO advertising to support the Lists. You might have noticed the conspicuous lack of flashing banners and annoying pop-ups on the Matronics Email List email messages and web site pages including: * Matronics List Forums http://forums.matronics.com * Matronics List Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search * Matronics List Browser http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse * Matronics List List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com You don't find advertising on any of these pages because I believe in a List experience that is completely about the sport we all enjoy - airplanes! During the month of November, I will be sending out List messages every couple of days reminding everyone that the Fund Raiser is underway. I ask for your patience and understanding during the Fund Raiser and throughout these regular messages. The Fund Raiser is only financial support mechanism I have to pay all of the bills associated with running these Lists. Your personal Contribution counts! Once again, this year we've got another terrific line up of free gifts to go along with the various Contribution levels. Many of these gifts have been provided by some of the vary members and vendors that you'll find on Matronics Lists and they have been either donated or provided at substantially discounted rates. This year, these generous people include: * Bob Nuckolls of the AeroElectric Connection http://www.aeroelectric.com * Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore http://www.buildersbooks.com These are extremely generous guys and I encourage you to visit their respective web sites. Each one offers a unique and very useful aviation-related product line. I would like publicly to thank Bob, and Andy for their generous support of the Lists again this year!! You can make your List Contribution using any one of three secure methods including using a credit card, PayPal, or by personal check. All three methods afford you the opportunity to select one of this year's free gifts with a qualifying Contribution amount!! To make your Contribution, please visit the secure site below: http://www.matronics.com/contribution I would like to thank everyone in advance for their generous financial AND moral support over the years! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator RV-8 Builder (and Rebuilder) and Flyer RV-6 Rebuilder and Flyer RV-4 Builder ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Andy Fultz" <andynfultz(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Thermostat ?
Date: Nov 01, 2011
billvt1, I got no body to your reply. Try it again Please. Andy -----Original Message----- From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of billvt1(at)gmail.com Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2011 7:44 AM Subject: Stratus-List: Thermostat ? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Andy Fultz" <andynfultz(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: In Need of Assistance Guys
Date: Nov 02, 2011
Since I can't get Mykal Templeman to respond via e-mail, has anybody got a phone number for him? If not, does anybody know how to get in touch with Reiner Hoffman? I need to find part numbers and source of supply for a thermostat and new engine mount bushings. I'm getting desperate. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Andy Fultz AVID Speedwing STRATUS EA-81 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 2011
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Please Support The Lists...
Dear Listers, Just a reminder that November is the Matronics Email List Fund Raiser month. There are some very nice incentive gifts to choose from as well! Please make your Contribution today at: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or by dropping a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 2011
From: Bill Steer <steerr(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: In Need of Assistance Guys
Have you tried 541-754-4114? That's the only number I have for him. Bill On 11/2/2011 11:44 PM, Andy Fultz wrote: > > *Since I can't get Mykal Templeman to respond via e-mail, has > anybody got a phone number for him? If not, does anybody know how > to get in touch with Reiner Hoffman? I need to find part numbers > and source of supply for a thermostat and new engine mount > bushings. I'm getting desperate. Any help will be greatly > appreciated. Thanks in advance.* > ** > *Andy Fultz* > *AVID Speedwing* > *STRATUS EA-81* > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 2011
From: Don Walker <d3dw(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: In Need of Assistance Guys
Andy,=0AThis number is several years old, but my records have 360 382 6521. By the way, =0AI had an eradic reading in my temps a few months ago...thou ght it was the =0Athermostat, and it turned out that the sensor in the back of the head had backed =0Aout and was reading from the air around it. Wort h a check?- best wishes, and if =0Ayou do find a source for the thermosta t, please keep us informed.- don walker=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A___________________ _____________=0AFrom: Bill Steer <steerr(at)bellsouth.net>=0ATo: stratus-list@ matronics.com=0ASent: Thu, November 3, 2011 7:42:21 AM=0ASubject: Re: Strat us-List: In Need of Assistance Guys=0A=0AHave you tried 541-754-4114?- Th at's the only number I have for him.=0A=0ABill=0A=0A=0AOn 11/2/2011 11:44 P M, Andy Fultz wrote: =0A=0A>=0A>Since I can't get Mykal Templeman to respon d via e-mail, has anybody got a phone =0A>number for him?- If not, does a nybody know how to get in touch with Reiner =0A>Hoffman?- I need to find part numbers and source of supply for a thermostat and =0A>new engine mount bushings.- I'm getting desperate.- Any help will be greatly =0A>apprec iated.- Thanks in advance.=0A>>-=0A>>Andy Fultz=0A>>AVID Speedwing=0A>> ===================== =0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry McFarland" <larry(at)macsmachine.com>
Subject: In Need of Assistance Guys
Date: Nov 03, 2011
Andy, The engine mount bushings can be had via Wag-Aero their stock number I-982-000 set of eight for $31.50 and as equal to Lycoming part number 71032. Just received a set from them and installed them. Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Steer Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2011 7:42 AM Subject: Re: Stratus-List: In Need of Assistance Guys Have you tried 541-754-4114? That's the only number I have for him. Bill On 11/2/2011 11:44 PM, Andy Fultz wrote: Since I can't get Mykal Templeman to respond via e-mail, has anybody got a phone number for him? If not, does anybody know how to get in touch with Reiner Hoffman? I need to find part numbers and source of supply for a thermostat and new engine mount bushings. I'm getting desperate. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Andy Fultz AVID Speedwing STRATUS EA-81 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 2011
From: Gary Krysztopik <gkrysztopik(at)satx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: In Need of Assistance Guys - contact info
I just emailed him, asked about parts, ordered and received them already using mykal.templeman(at)yahoo.com Gary Krysztopik ZWheelz, LLC - www.ZWheelz.com Alamo City Electric Auto Association - www.aceaa.org blog - http://voices.mysanantonio.com/drive_electric_san_antonio/ San Antonio, TX On 11/2/2011 10:44 PM, Andy Fultz wrote: > > *Since I can't get Mykal Templeman to respond via e-mail, has > anybody got a phone number for him? If not, does anybody know how > to get in touch with Reiner Hoffman? I need to find part numbers > and source of supply for a thermostat and new engine mount > bushings. I'm getting desperate. Any help will be greatly > appreciated. Thanks in advance.* > ** > *Andy Fultz* > *AVID Speedwing* > *STRATUS EA-81* > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 2011
From: Tim Shankland <tshankland(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Thermostat ?
Andy, Here is something you might want to consider. I too have notices times when my temperature reads above 200, it usually is at about 190. I had concern that something was amiss in my cooling system. I measured the temperature both with an inferred sensor and a thermocouple on the engine when I returned from a flight. I was never able to get a reading as high as shown on the gage. I then noticed if the engine was off the reading declined about 10 degrees. What I have determined is that there is a voltage sensitivity in the VDO meters, higher voltage higher reading. Thus after flying a while and the batteries get fully charged the voltage tents to rise, along with the temperature. I'm going to put together a small circuit to clamp the voltage going to the water and oil temperature at 12 to 12.5 volts and then see what happens. I probably will get it done and in the air this week or next and then see what happens. TIm Shankland Andy Fultz wrote: > > > Anybody know where I can get a replacement thermostat for my > STRATUS EA-81 engine. I don't think mine is functioning > properly. It seems to be sticking open for a while and as of late > I think it's sticking closed. Can't seem to make up its mind what > it wants to do. Sometimes it will function somewhat properly. > Today on a short flight I could tell it was working as it should > then toward the end of the flight it stuck closed again. Thanks. > > Andy > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Andy Fultz" <andynfultz(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: In Need of Assistance Guys
Date: Nov 03, 2011
Yes Bill, I have tried that number as well. Thanks. Andy -----Original Message----- From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Steer Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2011 7:42 AM To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: Stratus-List: In Need of Assistance Guys Have you tried 541-754-4114? That's the only number I have for him. Bill On 11/2/2011 11:44 PM, Andy Fultz wrote: Since I can't get Mykal Templeman to respond via e-mail, has anybody got a phone number for him? If not, does anybody know how to get in touch with Reiner Hoffman? I need to find part numbers and source of supply for a thermostat and new engine mount bushings. I'm getting desperate. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Andy Fultz AVID Speedwing STRATUS EA-81 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Andy Fultz" <andynfultz(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: In Need of Assistance Guys
Date: Nov 03, 2011
Will do Don. Andy -----Original Message----- From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Don Walker Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2011 8:10 AM To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: Stratus-List: In Need of Assistance Guys Andy, This number is several years old, but my records have 360 382 6521. By the way, I had an eradic reading in my temps a few months ago...thought it was the thermostat, and it turned out that the sensor in the back of the head had backed out and was reading from the air around it. Worth a check? best wishes, and if you do find a source for the thermostat, please keep us informed. don walker ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- -- From: Bill Steer <steerr(at)bellsouth.net> To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thu, November 3, 2011 7:42:21 AM Subject: Re: Stratus-List: In Need of Assistance Guys Have you tried 541-754-4114? That's the only number I have for him. Bill On 11/2/2011 11:44 PM, Andy Fultz wrote: Since I can't get Mykal Templeman to respond via e-mail, has anybody got a phone number for him? If not, does anybody know how to get in touch with Reiner Hoffman? I need to find part numbers and source of supply for a thermostat and new engine mount bushings. I'm getting desperate. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Andy Fultz AVID Speedwing STRATUS EA-81 www.build ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Andy Fultz" <andynfultz(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: In Need of Assistance Guys
Date: Nov 03, 2011
Thanks Larry. Andy -----Original Message----- From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry McFarland Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2011 9:00 AM To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RE: Stratus-List: In Need of Assistance Guys Andy, The engine mount bushings can be had via Wag-Aero their stock number I-982-000 set of eight for $31.50 and as equal to Lycoming part number 71032. Just received a set from them and installed them. Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Steer Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2011 7:42 AM To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: Stratus-List: In Need of Assistance Guys Have you tried 541-754-4114? That's the only number I have for him. Bill On 11/2/2011 11:44 PM, Andy Fultz wrote: Since I can't get Mykal Templeman to respond via e-mail, has anybody got a phone number for him? If not, does anybody know how to get in touch with Reiner Hoffman? I need to find part numbers and source of supply for a thermostat and new engine mount bushings. I'm getting desperate. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Andy Fultz AVID Speedwing STRATUS EA-81 &nb====================www.aeroelectric.comhttp://www.matronics.com/c= -Matt Dralle, List - The Stratus-List Email List utilities such as List Photoshare, and much much --> http://www.matro===================http://forums.matronics.com - List Contribution Web generous nbsp; -Matt http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Andy Fultz" <andynfultz(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: In Need of Assistance Guys - contact info
Date: Nov 03, 2011
Thanks Gary. I can't get him to respond to my e-mails anymore. They are not coming back to me so I can only assume that he's getting them. He did respond to one of my e-mails back in July, but none since. Andy -----Original Message----- From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gary Krysztopik Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2011 9:14 AM To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: Stratus-List: In Need of Assistance Guys - contact info I just emailed him, asked about parts, ordered and received them already using mykal.templeman(at)yahoo.com Gary Krysztopik ZWheelz, LLC - www.ZWheelz.com Alamo City Electric Auto Association - www.aceaa.org blog - http://voices.mysanantonio.com/drive_electric_san_antonio/ San Antonio, TX On 11/2/2011 10:44 PM, Andy Fultz wrote: Since I can't get Mykal Templeman to respond via e-mail, has anybody got a phone number for him? If not, does anybody know how to get in touch with Reiner Hoffman? I need to find part numbers and source of supply for a thermostat and new engine mount bushings. I'm getting desperate. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Andy Fultz AVID Speedwing STRATUS EA-81 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Andy Fultz" <andynfultz(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Thermostat ?
Date: Nov 03, 2011
Hey Tim, I'm using digital guages and haven't noticed the behaviour you have. I think my thermostat is just not opening and closing as it should. Andy -----Original Message----- From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Shankland Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2011 9:22 AM To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: Stratus-List: Thermostat ? Andy, Here is something you might want to consider. I too have notices times when my temperature reads above 200, it usually is at about 190. I had concern that something was amiss in my cooling system. I measured the temperature both with an inferred sensor and a thermocouple on the engine when I returned from a flight. I was never able to get a reading as high as shown on the gage. I then noticed if the engine was off the reading declined about 10 degrees. What I have determined is that there is a voltage sensitivity in the VDO meters, higher voltage higher reading. Thus after flying a while and the batteries get fully charged the voltage tents to rise, along with the temperature. I'm going to put together a small circuit to clamp the voltage going to the water and oil temperature at 12 to 12.5 volts and then see what happens. I probably will get it done and in the air this week or next and then see what happens. TIm Shankland Andy Fultz wrote: Anybody know where I can get a replacement thermostat for my STRATUS EA-81 engine. I don't think mine is functioning properly. It seems to be sticking open for a while and as of late I think it's sticking closed. Can't seem to make up its mind what it wants to do. Sometimes it will function somewhat properly. Today on a short flight I could tell it was working as it should then toward the end of the flight it stuck closed again. Thanks. Andy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 04, 2011
From: Tim Shankland <tshankland(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Thermostat ?
Andy, If you are using digital gages you are probably not affected by voltage variations, digital circuit will have their own internal voltage regulation. Tim Andy Fultz wrote: > Hey Tim, I'm using digital guages and haven't noticed the behaviour > you have. I think my thermostat is just not opening and closing as it > should. > > Andy > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim > Shankland > Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2011 9:22 AM > To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: Stratus-List: Thermostat ? > > Andy, > Here is something you might want to consider. I too have notices > times when my temperature reads above 200, it usually is at about > 190. I had concern that something was amiss in my cooling system. > I measured the temperature both with an inferred sensor and a > thermocouple on the engine when I returned from a flight. I was > never able to get a reading as high as shown on the gage. I then > noticed if the engine was off the reading declined about 10 > degrees. What I have determined is that there is a voltage > sensitivity in the VDO meters, higher voltage higher reading. > Thus after flying a while and the batteries get fully charged the > voltage tents to rise, along with the temperature. I'm going to > put together a small circuit to clamp the voltage going to the > water and oil temperature at 12 to 12.5 volts and then see what > happens. I probably will get it done and in the air this week or > next and then see what happens. > > TIm Shankland > > Andy Fultz wrote: > >> >> >> Anybody know where I can get a replacement thermostat for my >> STRATUS EA-81 engine. I don't think mine is functioning >> properly. It seems to be sticking open for a while and as of >> late I think it's sticking closed. Can't seem to make up its >> mind what it wants to do. Sometimes it will function >> somewhat properly. Today on a short flight I could tell it >> was working as it should then toward the end of the flight it >> stuck closed again. Thanks. >> >> Andy >> >> >> >> > > >href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com >href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com >href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com >href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Stratus-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Stratus-List >href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com >href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul" <paulm(at)olypen.com>
Subject: Re: motor mount bushings and thermostats
Date: Nov 04, 2011
I have two sets of 8 hard rubber mount bushings back when Rhiner was the owner. I have 2 thermostats in housings same age. This was blue copper for inline use with a right angle tube fitting. Its all sodered together Not sure, is current stratus2000 uses the same parts? I would like to get rid of these items and is there some ONE person on the list willing to handle free distribution to others? I will ship free in priority flat rate box anywhere in the USA to one person. Otherwise its $25 for each of the 4 items to 4 persons again only to USA. Paul ----- Original Message ----- From: Andy Fultz To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2011 5:47 PM Subject: RE: Stratus-List: In Need of Assistance Guys - contact info ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul" <paulm(at)olypen.com>
Subject: Re: motor mount bushings and thermostats
Date: Nov 04, 2011
I also have a set of 8 AL bushings to be used to make motor mounts. The outside diameter is for the steel tube mount engine side and the inside fits the rubber mount taper etc.. These as is the first offer can be to one person free for all or $25 included shipping for each or the now 5 items to different persons. To be fair lets set it up so only one set of a kind to each individual is possible. To be clear if someone can get up to 5 people to agree on this group and be the distributor I will ship free to that person and he will then ship to the otyhers at no more than actual shipping costs. Paul Rehiner is in FL and has been for many years. Out of this business. Visits Seattle at least once a year or has been last year. ----- Original Message ----- From: Paul To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, November 04, 2011 8:04 AM Subject: Re: Stratus-List: motor mount bushings and thermostats I have two sets of 8 hard rubber mount bushings back when Rhiner was the owner. I have 2 thermostats in housings same age. This was blue copper for inline use with a right angle tube fitting. Its all sodered together Not sure, is current stratus2000 uses the same parts? I would like to get rid of these items and is there some ONE person on the list willing to handle free distribution to others? I will ship free in priority flat rate box anywhere in the USA to one person. Otherwise its $25 for each of the 4 items to 4 persons again only to USA. Paul ----- Original Message ----- From: Andy Fultz To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2011 5:47 PM Subject: RE: Stratus-List: In Need of Assistance Guys - contact info ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Andy Fultz" <andynfultz(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: motor mount bushings and thermostats
Date: Nov 04, 2011
Paul, I will take on that task. Ship to me and if there is anyone else needing what I don't need I will ship to them. Andy Fultz 141 Fultz Road Starkville, MS 39759 -----Original Message----- From: owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-stratus-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Paul Sent: Friday, November 04, 2011 11:05 AM To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: Stratus-List: motor mount bushings and thermostats I have two sets of 8 hard rubber mount bushings back when Rhiner was the owner. I have 2 thermostats in housings same age. This was blue copper for inline use with a right angle tube fitting. Its all sodered together Not sure, is current stratus2000 uses the same parts? I would like to get rid of these items and is there some ONE person on the list willing to handle free distribution to others? I will ship free in priority flat rate box anywhere in the USA to one person. Otherwise its $25 for each of the 4 items to 4 persons again only to USA. Paul ----- Original Message ----- From: Andy Fultz To: stratus-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2011 5:47 PM Subject: RE: Stratus-List: In Need of Assistance Guys - contact info ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 05, 2011

February 18, 2009 - November 07, 2011

Stratus-Archive.digest.vol-af