Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:01 AM - Re: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment (Wendell & Jean Durr)
2. 07:18 AM - Re: Dead Dimmer? (John Slade)
3. 08:05 AM - Re: Dead Dimmer? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 08:28 AM - Surplus Antenna (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 09:00 AM - Re: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment (richard@riley.net)
6. 09:29 AM - Re: Trim on e-buss? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 09:37 AM - Re: virus defence. (CBFLESHREN@aol.com)
8. 09:44 AM - Re: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment (Scot Stambaugh)
9. 09:44 AM - Re: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment (John Slade)
10. 09:56 AM - Re: Trim on e-buss? (Matt Prather)
11. 10:00 AM - Re: Solder Sleeves (marc cote)
12. 10:01 AM - Re: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment (John Schroeder)
13. 10:36 AM - Connectors - its the little things that get you! (Steve Sampson)
14. 11:03 AM - Still "buildin' the plane" (Sanders, Andrew P)
15. 11:03 AM - Re: Solder Sleeves (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
16. 11:44 AM - ANR headset power (Jim Bean)
17. 11:56 AM - Re: Trim on e-buss? (Tony Babb)
18. 12:10 PM - Re: Perm magnet alternator & fuel pump trouble (Rogers, Bob J.)
19. 12:32 PM - Re: virus defence. (Dennis O'Connor)
20. 01:54 PM - runaway trim (Rick D.)
21. 02:22 PM - remove (Joseph Tuminello)
22. 03:24 PM - Re: runaway trim (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
23. 03:53 PM - Re: RV-List: Soldering torch on sale at Radio Shack thru 2 Feb - cancel incorrect info (David Carter)
24. 03:54 PM - Re: runaway trim (Alex Peterson)
25. 05:38 PM - Re: Re: RV-List: Soldering torch on sale at Radio (Charlie and Tupper England)
26. 05:50 PM - OV Module problems (Robert Kellar)
27. 08:29 PM - Re: Butane powered tools (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
28. 08:32 PM - PM Alternator filter? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
29. 08:58 PM - Re: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment (richard@riley.net)
30. 10:09 PM - Switch on a strobe line? (richard@riley.net)
31. 10:35 PM - Low fuel warning (Rob W M Shipley)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Wendell & Jean Durr" <legacy147@cableone.net>
Lots of us will be interested in Mr. Riley's experiences with his new
instrumentation.
Message 2
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Slade" <sladerj@bellsouth.net>
> Two devices are resistors . . . mounted apart from the
> others. Two are capacitors mounted side-by-side.
> The resistors are usually installed with the number
> facing up. One will be marked 392 the other 909 . . . these
> are the ones that need to be replaced.
Thanks, Bob. I looked at the board under a magnifying glass and identified
the resistors. They're the REALLY small ones. I also noticed that one of the
capacitors seems to be damaged - the black covering is partly missing. I
checked my wiring and there are no shorts. The dimmer gets hot, but doesn't
light the lights. The board is brown around the main component. I think I
need either a replacement board or a replacement capacitor.
Regards,
John Slade
Message 3
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 10:17 AM 1/10/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Slade" <sladerj@bellsouth.net>
>
> > Two devices are resistors . . . mounted apart from the
> > others. Two are capacitors mounted side-by-side.
> > The resistors are usually installed with the number
> > facing up. One will be marked 392 the other 909 . . . these
> > are the ones that need to be replaced.
>Thanks, Bob. I looked at the board under a magnifying glass and identified
>the resistors. They're the REALLY small ones. I also noticed that one of the
>capacitors seems to be damaged - the black covering is partly missing. I
>checked my wiring and there are no shorts. The dimmer gets hot, but doesn't
>light the lights. The board is brown around the main component. I think I
>need either a replacement board or a replacement capacitor.
>Regards,
>John Slade
Hmmm . . . send it back directly to me and I'll take a look at it.
Bob . . .
Message 4
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
I was cleaning out the shop and found an orphaned antenna
I purchased a couple of years ago when I was considering
the addition of antennas to our parts catalog.
It's an RA Miller Industries AV-529 which you
can find out more about here.
http://www.rami.com/gaa1.htm#AV-529
The antenna costs $92.00 wholesale. If anyone wants
it for $60.00, drop me a note.
Bob . . .
|-------------------------------------------------------|
| The man who does not read good books has no advantage |
| over the man who cannot read them. |
| - Mark Twain |
|-------------------------------------------------------|
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: richard@riley.net
At 07:00 AM 1/10/03 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Wendell & Jean Durr"
><legacy147@cableone.net>
>
>Lots of us will be interested in Mr. Riley's experiences with his new
>instrumentation.
I don't have much to say yet, it's not even unpacked. What I can say is
that it was scheduled to ship on Dec.24. They didn't quite make it, but
they emailed every day to let me know what the status was - they had a bad
batch of inclinometers, and had to replace them and re-test the units. It
shipped on Jan 5, a delay I find acceptable.
Going with the BlueMountain is the reason I've ended up with several extra
instruments, I'll be putting photos up shortly. Does anyone have a
suggestion for an easy and free place on the web to stash them?
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Trim on e-buss? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 04:59 PM 1/8/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "nhulin" <nhulin@hotmail.com>
>
>Robert Watson mentioned the problem of run away trim in this thread
>yesterday.
>
>So the trim is now at the stop and I can't get it back. I'm using constant
>manual pressure to fly the aircraft. What is advantage to pulling the power
>from the trim? When the servo hits the stop it shuts down so there isn't any
>current draw to worry about.
If one is worried about trim run-away . . . why not develop
a trim system that won't run away?
Bob . . .
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: virus defence. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: CBFLESHREN@aol.com
In a message dated 1/3/2003 3:33:30 PM Eastern Standard Time,
kayce@sysmatrix.net writes:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Harold Kovac" <kayce@sysmatrix.net>
>
>
> Hi all, just to let you know I received a virus with this message, my
> Norton antivirus intercepted it and deleted it.The details they listed
> were:
> ( width.exe W32dotklezdotHatsymbolmm
> Remove the 2 dot & atsymbol , replace with 2 periods--and @symbol to see
> what I received
> I hope everyone has their virus protection up to date
> kayce
> Original Message -----
> From: <CBFLESHREN@aol.com>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: toggle spacing
REPLY !
Hi all, sorry but I'm not guilty/infected here- in my defence please
see my response to Kayce : Hey Kayce, thanks for the heads-up but according
to Norton I'm clean . If you have not done so already, you can read the the
details about this virus & it's variant's at "<A HREF="http://www.sarc.com/avcenter/venc/data/w32.klez.h@mm.html">
http://www.sarc.com/avcenter/venc/data/w32.klez.h@mm.html and the removal
tool is available at <A HREF="http://securityresponse.symantec.com/avcenter/venc/data/w32.klez.removal.tool.html">
http://securityresponse.symantec.com/avcenter/venc/data/w32.klez.removal.tool.
html . This KLEZ thing does have a strange way of traveling & the details of
the "description" explain why you suspected me as the source. See this about
one-third down the webpage of the upper hyperlink above """Email spoofing :
This worm often uses a technique known as "spoofing." When it performs its
email routine. it can use a randomly chosen address that it finds on an
infected computer as the "From:" address, numerous cases have been reported
in which users of uninfected computers received complaints that they sent an
infected message to someone else."""
Have you seen or heard of Zone Alarm?(<A HREF="http://www.zonelabs.com/store/content/company/zap_za_grid.jsp">
http://www.zonelabs.com/store/content/company/zap_za_grid.jsp)They have a
FREE "firewall" download (and affordable upgrades) that is great at
protecting you while you are "online" and especially valuable if you are on a
cable modem etc. that is continuously connected to the internet. They watch
over my computer in concert with Norton. I surf the net freely-willy nilly &
open all Emails(not all attachments) & have not been infected at all, in over
three years with these two protectors! Good luck & I hope other "listers"
don't get infected or affected.
Thanks, Chris
Do Not Archive
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Scot Stambaugh <sstambaugh@qualcomm.com>
Check out www.snapfish.com. You can set up free photo albums and allow
certain e-mail addresses to have access. Very cool, fast and free.
scot
At 09:00 AM 1/10/2003, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: richard@riley.net
>
>At 07:00 AM 1/10/03 -0600, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Wendell & Jean Durr"
> ><legacy147@cableone.net>
> >
> >Lots of us will be interested in Mr. Riley's experiences with his new
> >instrumentation.
>
>I don't have much to say yet, it's not even unpacked. What I can say is
>that it was scheduled to ship on Dec.24. They didn't quite make it, but
>they emailed every day to let me know what the status was - they had a bad
>batch of inclinometers, and had to replace them and re-test the units. It
>shipped on Jan 5, a delay I find acceptable.
>
>Going with the BlueMountain is the reason I've ended up with several extra
>instruments, I'll be putting photos up shortly. Does anyone have a
>suggestion for an easy and free place on the web to stash them?
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Slade" <sladerj@bellsouth.net>
> instruments, I'll be putting photos up shortly. Does anyone have a
> suggestion for an easy and free place on the web to stash them?
How about my panel? :) I can't afford the EFIS 1 ....yet
John Slade
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Trim on e-buss? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
Hey, now there's a good question!!
Matt-
do not archive
>> down so there isn't any current draw to worry about.
>
> If one is worried about trim run-away . . . why not develop
> a trim system that won't run away?
>
> Bob . . .
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Solder Sleeves |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: marc cote <marcjcote@yahoo.com>
HI Bob,
I have used these before without any problems. The words of wisdom I have is maybe
you are concetrating the heat too much on the sleeve, Have you tried with
no tip on the heat gun or putting your heat gun further away from the sleeve?
the trick is to heat it up slowly. And the plastic will melt or deform slightly
but not more than that.
hope this helps
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> wrote:--> AeroElectric-List message
posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>Any words of wisdom re. the heat gun and tip used on raychem solder
>sleeves? I use a weller with a "focusing" heat tip plus several other
>guns (Master-mite and Ideal) but all I seem able to do is to melt the
>plastic sleeve before the solder flows. Hate to ruin such costly items so
>I've gone back to soldering pigtail to the shield. Any suggestions as to
>how better to use the sleeves or a better heat gun. Thanks, Ben Martin
The plastic always shrinks before the solder flows inside.
My current favorite heat gun is a Milwaukee variable heat
gun I bought at Home Depot. I'm always amazed how much
heat the plastic sleeve and wiring insulation will stand
while these critters are being applied. After the plastic
shrinks down, I concentrate the heat on the pigtail side
of the sleeve until I get first flow of the solder before
I rotate it around to heat the other side.
Bob . . .
|-------------------------------------------------------|
| The man who does not read good books has no advantage |
| over the man who cannot read them. |
| - Mark Twain |
|-------------------------------------------------------|
---------------------------------
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Richard:
Take a look at this site: http://www.lancaironline.net/pix/jschroeder. You might
try to keep posting pictures as you go along and use the annotation feature to
add some explanations. Rob Logan runs this site for Lancair photos & builders'
logs. He might give you some space. His email is: rob@logan.com.
We are also planning to install an EFIS/ONE so keep the postings and pictures
coming.
Cheers,
John Schroeder
Message 13
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| Subject: | Connectors - its the little things that get you! |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
I am wasting a mass of time trying to accurately identify the make and part
number for the 3-pin plugs/sockets/pins that I think both Whelen and Nova
use on their strobes. I think they are either AMP or Mouser (and is what
Mouser sells made by AMP). If anyone could give me the maker & part numbers
for the plugs sockets m & f pins I would be grateful.
Thanks so much, Steve.
RV9 #90360 / wings
N Yorks.., UK
Message 14
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| Subject: | Still "buildin' the plane" |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Sanders, Andrew P" <andrew.p.sanders@boeing.com>
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" wrote:
Aren't you glad you don't own a 172? It's really
great when a useful tool can evolve with the
times, technology and acquisition of new ideas.
Bob . . .
I own a '68 C-177 and by looking at the piles of parts laying around it, it's
clear that it's still evolving and far from finished!
Andrew
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Solder Sleeves |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 10:00 AM 1/10/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: marc cote <marcjcote@yahoo.com>
>
>
>HI Bob,
>I have used these before without any problems. The words of wisdom I have
>is maybe you are concetrating the heat too much on the sleeve, Have you
>tried with no tip on the heat gun or putting your heat gun further away
>from the sleeve? the trick is to heat it up slowly. And the plastic will
>melt or deform slightly but not more than that.
>hope this helps
Wondering what kind of solder sleeves you're talking about. The
devices we use and sell in our kits feature a ring of sealant
at both ends of a heat shrinkable sleeve. There's a ring
in the center of flux coated solder.
As the heat builds up in the sleeve, the outer jacket
and end seals soften and shrink first. The ends are oft
closed to minimum diameter before the solder begins to flow in
the center. The only time I've had problems was with
a gun that didn't put out enough heat.
One needs to do the install with a single application
of heat . . . if you take the heat away and try to
come back, I think you'll find that the characteristics
of the heatshrink are altered and it won't pull down
around the solder joint even if you do get the solder
to flow inside.
The heatgun I use is rated at 1200W. I hold the solder
sleeve 1/2" off end of the nozzle. I used to use a concentrator
but after the concentrator got lost, I found that it didn't
seem to make much difference. As long as the insulation
on your wire isn't getting cooked, you're not putting
on too much heat.
Bob . . .
Message 16
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| Subject: | ANR headset power |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Bean <jim-bean@att.net>
My homebuilt plane has a 9V power supply built in to replace the battery
pack of ANR headsets. Don't have the headsets yet. Does anyone know what
is the right panel connector to use for the headset power cord to plug into.
Jim Bean
RV-8
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Trim on e-buss? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tony Babb" <tonybabb@alejandra.net>
OK Bob,
Stop teasing us. The only one I can think of that won't run away is manual.
I'm sure you have a much better idea ;-)
> If one is worried about trim run-away . . . why not develop
> a trim system that won't run away?
>
> Bob . . .
Message 18
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| Subject: | Perm magnet alternator & fuel pump trouble |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rogers, Bob J." <BRogers@FDIC.gov>
Does this mean that a 3-phase PM Alternator does not need a filter
capacitor?
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III [mailto:bob.nuckolls@cox.net]
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Perm magnet alternator & fuel pump trouble
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:10 AM 1/3/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: DHPHKH@aol.com
>
><<I suspect the pump (which I believe is solid state electronics to control
>motor coil) may be sensitive to the severe ripple voltage that is present
>with the permanent alternators. >>
>
> Bob, can you expand on the subject of PM alternator ripple? Didn't
>realize that, nor the part about an old battery not being able to smooth
>things for the system.
>
>
>Thanks
>Dan
PM alternators in general are single phase devices with
an unfiltered ripple voltage equal to full output from the
device. 3-phase alternators on the other hand have only
about 5% pk-pk ripple after rectification.
All of our diagrams show a hefty filter capacitor on
each PM alternator installation . . . which should be
replaced every 4-5 years. We also recommend periodic
battery replacement for the purposes of maintaining
both battery capacity and battery filtering effectiveness.
Bob . . .
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<span
style='font-size:10.0pt;color:blue'>Does this mean that a 3-phase PM Alternator
does not need a filter capacitor?
<span style='font-size:
10.0pt'>
<span style='font-size:
10.0pt'>-----Original Message-----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III [mailto:bob.nuckolls@cox.net]
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Perm magnet alternator fuel pump trouble
<span style='font-size:
10.0pt'>
<span style='font-size:
10.0pt'>-- AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert L. Nuckolls,
III bob.nuckolls@cox.net
<span style='font-size:
10.0pt'>
<span style='font-size:
10.0pt'>At 09:10 AM 1/3/2003 -0500, you wrote:
<span style='font-size:
10.0pt'>-- AeroElectric-List message posted by: DHPHKH@aol.com
<span style='font-size:
10.0pt'>
<span style='font-size:
10.0pt'>I suspect the pump (which I believe is solid state
electronics to control
<span style='font-size:
10.0pt'>motor coil) may be sensitive to the severe ripple voltage that is
present
<span style='font-size:
10.0pt'>with the permanent alternators.
<span style='font-size:
10.0pt'>
<span style='font-size:
10.0pt'> Bob, can you expand on the
subject of PM alternator ripple? Didn't
<span style='font-size:
10.0pt'>realize that, nor the part about an old battery not being able to
smooth
<span style='font-size:
10.0pt'>things for the system.
<span style='font-size:
10.0pt'>
<span style='font-size:
10.0pt'>
<span style='font-size:
10.0pt'>Thanks
<span style='font-size:
10.0pt'>Dan
<span style='font-size:
10.0pt'>
<span style='font-size:
10.0pt'> PM alternators in general are single phase devices with
<span style='font-size:
10.0pt'> an unfiltered ripple voltage equal to full output from the
<span style='font-size:
10.0pt'> device. 3-phase alternators on the other hand have only
<span style='font-size:
10.0pt'> about 5% pk-pk ripple after rectification.
<span style='font-size:
10.0pt'>
<span style='font-size:
10.0pt'> All of our diagrams show a hefty filter capacitor on
<span style='font-size:
10.0pt'> each PM alternator installation . . . which should be
<span style='font-size:
10.0pt'> replaced every 4-5 years. We also recommend periodic
<span style='font-size:
10.0pt'> battery replacement for the purposes of maintaining
<span style='font-size:
10.0pt'> both battery capacity and battery filtering effectiveness.
<span style='font-size:
10.0pt'>
<span style='font-size:
10.0pt'> Bob . . .
<span style='font-size:
10.0pt'>
<span style='font-size:
10.0pt'>
<span style='font-size:
<span style='font-size:
- The AeroElectric-List Email Forum -
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Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: virus defence. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dennis O'Connor" <doconnor@chartermi.net>
The virus you receive is almost never from the address shown... It is
usually spoofed from someone elses address book..
Denny
----- Original Message -----
From: <CBFLESHREN@aol.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: virus defence.
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: CBFLESHREN@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 1/3/2003 3:33:30 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> kayce@sysmatrix.net writes:
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Harold Kovac"
<kayce@sysmatrix.net>
> >
> >
> > Hi all, just to let you know I received a virus with this message, my
> > Norton antivirus intercepted it and deleted it.The details they listed
> > were:
> > ( width.exe W32dotklezdotHatsymbolmm
> > Remove the 2 dot & atsymbol , replace with 2 periods--and @symbol to see
> > what I received
> > I hope everyone has their virus protection up to date
> > kayce
> > Original Message -----
> > From: <CBFLESHREN@aol.com>
> > To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: toggle spacing
>
> REPLY !
> Hi all, sorry but I'm not guilty/infected here- in my defence
please
> see my response to Kayce : Hey Kayce, thanks for the heads-up but
according
> to Norton I'm clean . If you have not done so already, you can read the
the
> details about this virus & it's variant's at "<A
HREF="http://www.sarc.com/avcenter/venc/data/w32.klez.h@mm.html">
> http://www.sarc.com/avcenter/venc/data/w32.klez.h@mm.html and the removal
> tool is available at <A
HREF="http://securityresponse.symantec.com/avcenter/venc/data/w32.klez.remov
al.tool.html">
>
http://securityresponse.symantec.com/avcenter/venc/data/w32.klez.removal.too
l.
>
> html . This KLEZ thing does have a strange way of traveling & the details
of
> the "description" explain why you suspected me as the source. See this
about
> one-third down the webpage of the upper hyperlink above """Email spoofing
:
> This worm often uses a technique known as "spoofing." When it performs its
> email routine. it can use a randomly chosen address that it finds on an
> infected computer as the "From:" address, numerous cases have been
reported
> in which users of uninfected computers received complaints that they sent
an
> infected message to someone else."""
> Have you seen or heard of Zone Alarm?(<A
HREF="http://www.zonelabs.com/store/content/company/zap_za_grid.jsp">
> http://www.zonelabs.com/store/content/company/zap_za_grid.jsp)They have a
> FREE "firewall" download (and affordable upgrades) that is great at
> protecting you while you are "online" and especially valuable if you are
on a
> cable modem etc. that is continuously connected to the internet. They
watch
> over my computer in concert with Norton. I surf the net freely-willy nilly
&
> open all Emails(not all attachments) & have not been infected at all, in
over
> three years with these two protectors! Good luck & I hope other "listers"
> don't get infected or affected.
> Thanks, Chris
> Do Not Archive
>
>
Message 20
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rick D." <rsdec1@msn.com>
Does anyone know what the failure modes are for runaway trim? i.e. stuck
switch ? motor malfunction? I plan to have a three position momentary
switch, up,off,down, and a N.O. pushbutton switch right next to it. To add
trim you will push the button (this will provide power to the aforementioned
3 position switch) and then you move the 3 position switch in the
appropriate direction.
Good luck, you'll need it,
Rick
Time: 09:11:23 PM PST US
From: "robert watson"<bob1629r@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Trim on e-buss?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "robert
watson"<bob1629r@earthlink.net>
Dan put trims on main buss this way if you have a runaway trim you can
remove with master and still have e-buss
Message 21
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Joseph Tuminello <mouseysf@pacbell.net>
AeroElectric-List Digest Server <aeroelectric-list-digest@matronics.com> wrote:*
==================================================
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
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AeroElectric-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Thu 01/09/03: 31
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:52 AM - Re: New Survey: what's on your bus? (John Schroeder)
2. 06:26 AM - Re: Mounting stuff (John Slade)
3. 07:53 AM - Re: FS: Bendex electric AI (N823ms@aol.com)
4. 08:12 AM - RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment (Rob Miller)
5. 08:15 AM - Re: Dead Dimmer? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 08:15 AM - wiring differences (Werner Schneider)
7. 08:29 AM - Re: Indexing the 'Connection (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 08:33 AM - Re: Dead Dimmer? (John Slade)
9. 09:01 AM - Re: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment (N823ms@aol.com)
10. 11:02 AM - Re: Dead Dimmer? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 11:29 AM - Re: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment (Scot Stambaugh)
12. 11:41 AM - Re: Dead Dimmer? (John Slade)
13. 11:47 AM - Low Voltage Monitor (Mark Phillips)
14. 11:59 AM - Affordable time-delay (Mark Phillips)
15. 01:07 PM - Re: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment (Ron Raby)
16. 01:11 PM - Re: Affordable time-delay (KITFOXZ@aol.com)
17. 01:49 PM - Re: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment (I-Blackler, Wayne R)
18. 02:09 PM - Re: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment (Rob Miller)
19. 02:12 PM - Re: Low Voltage Monitor (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
20. 02:14 PM - Re: Dead Dimmer? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
21. 03:40 PM - Fuel pump wiring (I-Blackler, Wayne R)
22. 05:18 PM - Re: Affordable time-delay (David Lundquist)
23. 05:36 PM - Re: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment (N823ms@aol.com)
24. 06:23 PM - Re: Mounting stuff (Tom Brusehaver)
25. 06:28 PM - Re: Affordable time-delay (Charlie and Tupper England)
26. 07:01 PM - Re: Affordable time-delay (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
27. 07:52 PM - Re: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment (richard@riley.net)
28. 08:39 PM - Re: Fuel pump wiring (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
29. 09:06 PM - Solder Sleeves (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
30. 09:07 PM - Re: Alternator Connection (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
31. 11:17 PM - Re: Affordable time-delay (Mark Phillips)
________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________
Time: 05:52:23 AM PST US
From: John Schroeder
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: New Survey: what's on your bus?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder
Dan -
What a super, wonderful idea!!! Great job! I did not fill out the questionaire
because I was not able to provide much useable information. We are doing Bob's
Z-14 power distribution plan (dual battery and dual alternator). However, it
would be a great tool to gather data from folks and build a superb database for
future, and present, builders to view. My guess is that you already have the
basic framework but with some modifications you could build the data on Bob's
series of Z diagrams and people could view the data from several builders who
are using a particular diagram.
Bob already has had a number of folks submit their data on various Z's and an
on-line database would really be an asset.
Email me off line if you want to discuss further.
If you don't have the time, perhaps someone else on this list would consider
taking it on.
Cheers,
John Schroeder
>If you have a moment, I kindly ask that you take this quick survey (just a
>few clicks required) which asks what you have (or will have) on your various
>electrical busses:
>
>http://www.rvproject.com/buspoll/
>
>Thanks in advance,
>)_( Dan
>
________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________
Time: 06:26:28 AM PST US
From: "John Slade"
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Mounting stuff
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Slade"
> it is figuring out where to
> mount everything that is starting to worry me.
I have the same problem, Tom. Even though the Cozy is fairly big I'm running
out of room for stuff. Maybe I have too much stuff :) I can't imaging how
the LongEz types squeeze everything in.
My MB is on the passenger wall below the airvent.
The ground bus is on the rear of the panel just above the lower wire inlet.
The encoder is attached to the bottom of the radio stack frame
On the pilot side wall is the parking brake and the trim / landing brake
relay
The dimmer is behind the top center of the panel tucked under the defrost
vent
Most of the sensor wiring will go on the forward side of the firewall
(the firewall is getting pretty full too)
I can't find an ideal spot on the panel for the voice annunciator.
I'm thinking of building a horizontal frame between the IP and F22 in the
center for additional stuff.
> Oh yea, and what are people doing for post lights.
> Like how do they get wired? Daisy chain, or all the
> wires to a terminal strip?
I'm using LED's daisy chained.
________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________
Time: 07:53:07 AM PST US
From: N823ms@aol.com
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: FS: Bendex electric AI
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N823ms@aol.com
In a message dated 01/06/2003 6:43:44 AM Central Standard Time,
neilmcleod@direcway.com writes:
> > I have ended up with a spare electric AI. The bad news is that it's 110v
> > 400hz 3 phase. The good news is that the inverters are available from
> > http://freespace.virgin.net/andy.wright617/ for $160.
> >
> > The one I have is a Bendex#1978130-1, cageable with a full ball
> > display. Removed as serviceable and kept as a serviceable spare with a
> > yellow tag, sealed with desiccant and caged. I'm told it's mounted in an
> > ATI-3 rack.
> >
>
I would like photos as well of your AI gauge.
Thanks,
Ed SIlvanic
N823MS@aol.com
________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________
Time: 08:12:29 AM PST US
From: Rob Miller
Subject: AeroElectric-List: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Rob Miller
Hi listers
After completing some electronic installations in the "Bad Cat." I
thought I needed to express my utter disappointment with my brand new RC
Allen Artificial Horizon. After nearly $2,000, the unit worked for about
an hour, then rolled over and died. It came back to life several times
only to die once again. No flag came up, nothing, just erroneous info
that could have had dire results had I been in the clouds. The unit was
returned to the avionics shop where it is being repaired--I can hardly
wait.
Also, the horizon came with absolutely no paperwork. No warranty details,
installation info, or even a "thank you for buying our product" note. I
even had to spend $35 on a connector to hook up power--I feel this should
have been included.
In short, Dynon, Blue Mountain, and anyone else out there, please get your
product to the marketplace and give us consumers a choice. The better
mousetrap must be right around the corner.
Rob Miller RV-8 N262RM "Bad Cat" 40 hrs.
________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________
Time: 08:15:20 AM PST US
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Dead Dimmer?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
At 11:24 AM 1/8/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Slade"
>
> > If you can tell me what voltage range you'd like
> > the dimmer to deliver, I can calculate some
> > new resistors for the setting limits.
>
>Cool.
>My LED's have 470 ohm resistors in series per you're LED tutorial. Right now
>the LED's go from "bright" to "medium". Ideally I'd like them to go all the
>way to "off" = i.e. zero or close to it, but "dim" would be fine. I don't
>have an easy way to specify a voltage, but I'd guess that if 4 volts gets me
>half way, 1 or 2 volts would be good.
The purpose of not taking the voltage to zero at bottom of
potentiometer travel is to make use of the control's full
travel. Many designs take illumination voltage to zero at
max ccw travel. This means that you turn the pot quite a way
before there is any useful light output . . . I.e., that amount
of travel is not useful for control.
LED's are relatively constant voltage devices but they vary
between colors. Red LEDs are lowest voltage devices that come
on at about 2 volts. Sooo . . to modify a stock dimmer for
a 2 to 12 volt adjustment range, the 909 ohm resistor in
series with the control pot changes to 220 ohms, the 392 ohm
resistor changes to 330 ohms.
Bob . . .
________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________
Time: 08:15:50 AM PST US
From: "Werner Schneider"
Subject: AeroElectric-List: wiring differences
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Werner Schneider"
Hello Bob,
I've the LR-3 Voltage Regulator from B&C, now I see some difference between
the wiring in your Z-x diagramms and the delivered installation
instructions for the regulator. The wires (FLD) (7) and case GND are 2
gauges smaller in your diag (AWG22) as in the intructions (AWG20). I've done
it with Z-11 in my hands, can this cause any problems?
Further, is it correct, that I should size the wire from the alternator to
the
starter contactor according the Alternator size?
eg. a 40 Amp 8 awg
a 60 Amp 6 awg
Many thanks for a clarification.
Werner
________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________
Time: 08:29:03 AM PST US
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Indexing the 'Connection
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
At 12:18 PM 1/8/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming"
>
>
> > Why do the screws bother you . . . and why 16AWG wire? 20AWG is
> > fine for position lights. I'd go ahead and use the screws with
> > PIDG terminals. I've seen people solder these joints but
> > they loose insulation support offered by PIDG terminals.
>
>
>Bob, I have your manual. As we all know, it does not have a cross reference
>to make it a very easy-to-use reference source. This recent post forces
>some of us to need to check what a PIDG terminal is even though we have run
>across it before in our lives. I probably would not be wrong to say it is
>in your manual somewhere. But finding it would be easier if there was a
>cross reference list.
>
>If I had your manual in electronic form, I could word search for any topic.
>OK, without giving away your manual for free and depriving you of future
>authorship income, what about having a cross reference list of your manual
>on the aerolectric web site for everyone to use at so we could find stuff
>more easily in your manual. If anything, showing entries for various topics
>will wet the appetite of those not having your nice manual, I think. And
>those who own it -- it will be even more valuable.
Understand . . . in its present form, doing a credible
index a a pretty big task. Some chapters are original
and still in WordStar. Each chapter is a stand-alone
document in the word processor so I can't take advantage
the automatic indexing feature present in most modern
word processors.
There are chapters yet to be written and I have hopes
of one getting the entire document into a single
file so that it can be published in a .pdf format
that would make searches possible. Can't tell you
when all this will happen . . . if I had nothing
else to work on, it would happen sooner but as long
as the AeroElectric Connection remains a hobby that
makes a little money, grandest plans for the future
aren't going to move to the front burner soon.
Sorry.
Bob . . .
________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________
Time: 08:33:39 AM PST US
From: "John Slade"
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Dead Dimmer?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Slade"
> to modify a stock dimmer for
> a 2 to 12 volt adjustment range, the 909 ohm resistor in
> series with the control pot changes to 220 ohms, the 392 ohm
> resistor changes to 330 ohms.
Hmmm. Sounds easy, except that I don't know where those resistors are.
Looking at the back of the circuit board I see 2 tiny little black things
and 2 tenny tiny little black things. Could these be they?
Regards,
John Slade
________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________
Time: 09:01:01 AM PST US
From: N823ms@aol.com
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N823ms@aol.com
Rob:
I could not agree more!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Regards,
Ed Silvanic
________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________
Time: 11:02:53 AM PST US
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Dead Dimmer?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
At 11:32 AM 1/9/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Slade"
>
> > to modify a stock dimmer for
> > a 2 to 12 volt adjustment range, the 909 ohm resistor in
> > series with the control pot changes to 220 ohms, the 392 ohm
> > resistor changes to 330 ohms.
>Hmmm. Sounds easy, except that I don't know where those resistors are.
>Looking at the back of the circuit board I see 2 tiny little black things
>and 2 tenny tiny little black things. Could these be they?
that's them . . . you can use 1/4w wired resistors and
tack solder them to the traces on the ECB so that
they replace the surface mounted devices.
Bob . . .
________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________
Time: 11:29:10 AM PST US
From: Scot Stambaugh
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Scot Stambaugh
Except for the failure part I had the same experience with my new TC.
- no documents
-no power cord
-no mounting hardware
-no thank you
Must be nice to be able to provide terrible service and a marginal product
and still have good sales. My TC is a backup unit as I have the Sierra
Flight systems EFIS 2000 in my Rocket. Very cool stuff and, I suspect, 100
times more reliable than the backup mechanical units(TC, Altimeter,
ASI). Panel pictures at:
http://www.teamrocketaircraft.com/photo/Scot%20Stambaugh/index.html
Scot
At 08:12 AM 1/9/2003, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Rob Miller
>
>Hi listers
>
>After completing some electronic installations in the "Bad Cat." I
>thought I needed to express my utter disappointment with my brand new RC
>Allen Artificial Horizon. After nearly $2,000, the unit worked for about
>an hour, then rolled over and died. It came back to life several times
>only to die once again. No flag came up, nothing, just erroneous info
>that could have had dire results had I been in the clouds. The unit was
>returned to the avionics shop where it is being repaired--I can hardly
>wait.
>
>Also, the horizon came with absolutely no paperwork. No warranty details,
>installation info, or even a "thank you for buying our product" note. I
>even had to spend $35 on a connector to hook up power--I feel this should
>have been included.
>
>In short, Dynon, Blue Mountain, and anyone else out there, please get your
>product to the marketplace and give us consumers a choice. The better
>mousetrap must be right around the corner.
>
>Rob Miller RV-8 N262RM "Bad Cat" 40 hrs.
>
>
________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________
Time: 11:41:42 AM PST US
From: "John Slade"
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Dead Dimmer?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Slade"
> > > to modify a stock dimmer for
> > > a 2 to 12 volt adjustment range, the 909 ohm resistor in
> > > series with the control pot changes to 220 ohms, the 392 ohm
> > > resistor changes to 330 ohms.
> >Hmmm. Sounds easy, except that I don't know where those resistors are.
> >Looking at the back of the circuit board I see 2 tiny little black things
> >and 2 tenny tiny little black things. Could these be they?
>
> that's them . . . you can use 1/4w wired resistors and
> tack solder them to the traces on the ECB so that
> they replace the surface mounted devices.
OK. I can do that. I have to change 2 of the 4. Which is which?
________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________
Time: 11:47:35 AM PST US
From: Mark Phillips
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Low Voltage Monitor
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips
Any new info on price/availability of the new AEC9005-201/202 modules?
Could not find in B&C catalog or referenced on the Aeroelectric site...
Thanks & do not archive !
Mark Phillips
________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________
Time: 11:59:04 AM PST US
From: Mark Phillips
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Affordable time-delay
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips
Here's one for you gadget design junkies- I have reed type float
switches in each tank that should close at about 1/3 fuel remaining
(RV-6A) to turn on low fuel annunciator lamps. I'd like to feed these
with a time delay so they don't flicker continuously as they transition
from off to on- I'm thinking maybe a 10 sec. to 30 sec. delay would
probably be suitable. I have looked for commercial timing relays and
their size, weight & price will take yer breath away! Is there a
reasonably simple way to employ an IC type timer (555 chip?) - I don't
pretend to understand this stuff and would prefer to get the airplane
finished than learn IC design & use! Maybe after it flies, but would
like to install this circuit as the system goes together.
Thanks from The PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips do not archive
________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________
Time: 01:07:01 PM PST US
From: "Ron Raby"
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Raby"
I was about to write the check for my artificial horizon, tc etc. I was
going to buy rc allen. Now I have second thoughts. Any recommendations? my
plan was to go with all electric guages, then upgrade to a glass panel
=== message truncated ===
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: runaway trim |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 04:53 PM 1/10/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rick D." <rsdec1@msn.com>
>
>Does anyone know what the failure modes are for runaway trim? i.e. stuck
>switch ? motor malfunction? I plan to have a three position momentary
>switch, up,off,down, and a N.O. pushbutton switch right next to it. To add
>trim you will push the button (this will provide power to the aforementioned
>3 position switch) and then you move the 3 position switch in the
>appropriate direction.
>Good luck, you'll need it,
>Rick
That's how the big guys do it. Design so that it
takes two independent, pre-flight testable failures
to effect a runaway trip. This can be a simple "trim enable"
switch operated in conjunction with a trim up/dn switch.
The King Airs split their two-pole, double-throw switch
into two halves, which can BOTH be operated with the
thumb to get desired trim . . . failure of either half
doesn't stick the trim in a runaway condition.
I published a diagram a few weeks ago for a master
trim disconnect system that would shut down all
trim systems + autopilot servos. This is a very
common feature in larger GA aircraft and bizjets.
It's usually a little red button on yolk or stick
that unlatches a relay.
In any case, you want to make sure that your trim
system authority has no more range and effect than
what is needed for operations. I'm aware of a Kitfox
accident where a stuck trim switch put the tab
to an extreme position that was almost twice the
trim force needed to operate the airplane over
full range of speeds and CG . . . Even at that,
it wasn't a great amount of force had the pilot
been expecting it but the onset of effects were
so fast that the pilot didn't react in a useful
way . . . pilot got out okay but it totaled
the airplane.
Bob . . .
Message 23
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|
"RV-list" <rv-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Soldering torch on sale at Radio Shack |
thru 2 Feb - cancel incorrect info
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Hey, RV-list & Aeroelectric List - the "torch" I told you all about is a
"butane heated tip IRON" - not a torch. Found one at another Radio Shack
last night and realized I "saw what I wanted to see" at the first RS where
it was out of stock and all I had to go by was the tiny letters on the
pegboard label - probably didn't have my reading glasses on. Anyway, its
not a torch. Sorry.
So, where's a good place to buy a torch for working away from where there
is electricity for solder guns?
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Jory" <rickjory@msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Soldering torch on sale at Radio Shack thru 2 Feb
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Jory" <rickjory@msn.com>
>
> Why not splice via the splices that you crimp? Fast, easy, secure. I'm
not
> one to "teach", but I've read solder and planes don't go together. Most
of
> the wiring we use is stranded, not solid core . . . so that it can
vibrate,
> flex, etc. without breaking. Solder adds, in effect, a "solid core"
> section. Anyway, that's my two cents.
> Rick Jory RV8A
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: David Carter <dcarter@datarecall.net>
> To: RV-list <rv-list@matronics.com>; aeroelectric-list
> <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Soldering torch on sale at Radio Shack thru 2 Feb
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
> >
> > On my RV-6 I'm splicing in extra lengths of wire (14 or 16 awg -
> definitely bigger than 20 or 22) on my Whelen tail/strobe lights so have
> enough wire for service loop, etc. for maintenance/light fixture removal,
> etc. First tried to solder with a regular soldering gun but got cold
> solder joints due to wires wiggling with gun tip physically pressing on
the
> wires.
> >
> > So, am going to buy a soldering torch - so don't have to physically
touch
> the wires except with the thin solder strand. Had previously figured the
> torch was only for real pros like Bob Nuckolls - now I can see that an
> amateur like me needs one, too.
> >
> > Went to Radio Shack and found they are on sale for $5 off the normal
> $19.99 price thru 2 Feb or some such date. Anyone needs one, enjoy the
> price.
> >
> > David Carter
> > RV-6 - about to close the aft fuselage with top aft skins
> >
> >
>
>
Message 24
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
Runaway trim in an RV is really no huge deal like it can be in other
planes. Everyone should get to altitude and run the trim to the limits
at approach speeds to get a feel for what it feels like. Not
comfortable, but doable.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 247 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Rick D.
> Sent: Friday, January 10, 2003 3:53 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: runaway trim
>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rick D." <rsdec1@msn.com>
>
> Does anyone know what the failure modes are for runaway trim?
> i.e. stuck switch ? motor malfunction? I plan to have a three
> position momentary switch, up,off,down, and a N.O. pushbutton
> switch right next to it. To add trim you will push the button
> (this will provide power to the aforementioned 3 position
> switch) and then you move the 3 position switch in the
> appropriate direction. Good luck, you'll need it, Rick
> Time: 09:11:23 PM PST US
> From: "robert watson"<bob1629r@earthlink.net>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Trim on e-buss?
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "robert
> watson"<bob1629r@earthlink.net>
>
> Dan put trims on main buss this way if you have a runaway
> trim you can remove with master and still have e-buss
>
>
> ==========
> Matronics Forums.
> ==========
> List members.
> ==========
> ==========
>
>
>
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Soldering torch on sale at Radio |
Shack thru 2 Feb - cancel incorrect info
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
David Carter wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
> Hey, RV-list & Aeroelectric List - the "torch" I told you all about is a
> "butane heated tip IRON" - not a torch. Found one at another Radio Shack
> last night and realized I "saw what I wanted to see" at the first RS where
> it was out of stock and all I had to go by was the tiny letters on the
> pegboard label - probably didn't have my reading glasses on. Anyway, its
> not a torch. Sorry.
>
> So, where's a good place to buy a torch for working away from where there
> is electricity for solder guns?
>
> David Carter
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rick Jory" <rickjory@msn.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Soldering torch on sale at Radio Shack thru 2 Feb
>
>
If it's similar to the one I've owned for about 20 years, it should be more
useful than a torch. It works like a cordless soldering iron with less danger
than a torch of igniting something you don't want to burn. Also, you will be
more likely to get clean joints if you aren't applying a flame directly to the
joint.
If you want battery powered cordless, Wahl
http://www.starkelectronic.com/whl7944.htm
makes one but I never liked using them because of limited 'thermal inertia'
(limited power).
Charlie
Message 26
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| Subject: | OV Module problems |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert Kellar" <rkellar@attbi.com>
Bob, I posted this a week ago to the net and missed the answer you may have given.
I am re posting it to see if you have any ideas regarding this problem.
What follows is my original e-mail to Bob through his web site, his answer and
questions, my response and finally at the bottom of the message is the new information
regarding the tripping of the breaker...
Comments/Questions: I am using your voltage regulator LR3B-14 in my
RV6. Purchased 2 years ago. Worked wonderfully until 2 months ago. On
multiple occasions the 5A fuse from the bus to the master switch to
terminal 6 blows.
This fuse should have been a circuit breaker . . . all of our
installation drawings show a breaker used with any form of
crowbar overvoltage protection.
When not blown the voltage regulator functions perfectly 20+ amps
charge then cycles down to less than 5 amps for flight. Usually the
fuse lasts for 1 hr or less and then with the next flight, as I take off the
fuse will blow and the blinking warning light comes on. Replace the
fuse and I can fly again for awhile. I have inspected everything in the
panel, wires, connections etc looking for a possible short or failure. My
question is...Is there anything internal to the unit that could cause
this intermittent failure? If not, I will continue my investigation of
all the wire out to the alternator looking for a possible intermittent
short.
Do you have a voltmeter in the airplane? What does it read
just before the ov system trips?
Thank you for your response and all the help provided on the net and
in your electical manual and diagrams.
>
> My pleasure sir.
>
> I will invite you to join us on the AeroElectric List
> to continue this and similar discussions. It's useful to
> share the information with as many folks as possible.
> You can join at . . .
Thank you for you quick response. I missed the part about the breaker in
the instructions. I'll install a breaker and fly some more and then let you
know here on the list. Re: Voltage before the fuse blows...I am too busy
flying the takeoff to notice. I'll bring a passenger to monitor this value.
Bob Kellar
Jan 2, 03
Bob, After installing a 5 amp breaker, I went flying today with an observer with
the following results. Start up and taxi, runup all trouble free. I placed
various loads, lights radios, strobes etc. onto the bus without any problems.
Good charge at 13 + volts even during idle. Take off started and just about
at 100 ft. of altitude the breaker popped and the yellow blinking light came
on. The observer reported no change in the volt meter until the breaker popped
and it of course dropped to 10-12 volts. She noted that the amp meter had
suddenly flicked full to charge just before the breaker popped. I unloaded the
system bus completely, reset the breaker and then restarted to apply the load.
No problems at all. We flew for awhile and then landed, shut down, restarted
and took off, this time without any problems. Regualator and alternator continued
to work well for the 30 min. of additional flight. The unit was purchased
from you 5/4/99 with first flight 10/4/01. As I noted above I have about
100 hours on the airplane and no problems until the last 15 hours. Any suggestions
regarding diagnostics or fixes would be greately appreciated. Bob Kellar
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Butane powered tools |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 07:36 PM 1/10/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie and Tupper England
><cengland@netdoor.com>
>
>David Carter wrote:
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter"
> <dcarter@datarecall.net>
> >
> > Hey, RV-list & Aeroelectric List - the "torch" I told you all about is a
> > "butane heated tip IRON" - not a torch. Found one at another Radio Shack
> > last night and realized I "saw what I wanted to see" at the first RS where
> > it was out of stock and all I had to go by was the tiny letters on the
> > pegboard label - probably didn't have my reading glasses on. Anyway, its
> > not a torch. Sorry.
> >
> > So, where's a good place to buy a torch for working away from where there
> > is electricity for solder guns?
I've kept butane powered irons in my mini-box of tools
at my desk for a number of years. See some exemplar
tools at:
http://www.ba-electronics.com/soldiron.htm
http://www.elexp.com/sdr_05pl.htm
http://www.hobbytron.net/r-bsi20.html
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/PP-PPSK.html
I had a butane powered heat gun from Radio Shack that
really worked nice when it worked. Igniter was flakey . .
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?DID=7&PartNumber=370-275
The butane powered torch is useful only for (1) very large
solder jobs like installing terminals on 2AWG wire and (2)
very hot jobs like sliver soldering. I've had several
versions of these things on my website catalog from time
to time.
http://www.chefdepot.net/minitorch.htm
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?DID=7&PartNumber=370-270
http://hightechdepot.com/static/Bt-8000.Html
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42099
these were on sale at Harbor Freight before xmas for $1.50 each.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=39440
Bob . . .
Message 28
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| Subject: | PM Alternator filter? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 03:07 PM 1/10/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rogers, Bob J." <BRogers@FDIC.gov>
>
>Does this mean that a 3-phase PM Alternator does not need a filter
>capacitor?
Not necessarily so . . . it's output is certainly easier
to filter than a single phase but unfortunately, due to the
way a PM alternator's output has to be regulated (series
phase triggered SCR's) the output can still be quite trashy
comparted to a wound field alternator.
I'd assume that any airplane would benefit from filter
capacitor(s) added to the output of any style PM
alternator.
Bob . . .
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: richard@riley.net
Well, I had my first disappointment with the installation - and it's NOT
Bluemountains.
I had my previous instrument panel digitized by Steve Davis. A couple of
weeks ago I found a waterjet company a block away from my shop, and they
offered to do a test panel for me for nothing, if I supplied the
material. I got some plexi and had them cut it, it doesn't fit the
plane. I don't know if the file doesn't match the old panel, or if the new
panel doesn't match the file, but somewhere there's an error. I'm having
Steve send the old panel back to me so I can physically compare the two.
At 01:00 PM 1/10/03 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder
><jschroeder@perigee.net>
>
>Richard:
>
>Take a look at this site: http://www.lancaironline.net/pix/jschroeder. You
>might
>try to keep posting pictures as you go along and use the annotation
>feature to
>add some explanations. Rob Logan runs this site for Lancair photos &
>builders'
>logs. He might give you some space. His email is: rob@logan.com.
>
>We are also planning to install an EFIS/ONE so keep the postings and pictures
>coming.
>
>Cheers,
>
>John Schroeder
>
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Switch on a strobe line? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: richard@riley.net
I'm installing a 4 head strobe pack and would like to be able to turn off
two of the strobes while leaving the other 2 on. Can I use a conventional
toggle swich in line with the bulbs, or does the high voltage make that
unworkable?
Message 31
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| Subject: | Low fuel warning |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" <Rob@RobsGlass.com>
Dave Lundquist wrote -
"As an aside, you can probably see that a "digital" fuel sensor is really not
the best way to go. An analog resistive sender produces a much easier to
deal with signal that is more suited to averaging. If you are using
resistive senders the same circuit in fact could just tap off them to
produce the same low fuel warning. The only advantage I can see with the
switches is that it would give you an independent warning of low fuel."
This sounds like something I would really like to add to my project. I have the
standard Vans resistive senders and would welcome your input on how to tap the
output of these for a warning light without interfering with the gauges.
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
RV9A N919RV Fuselage.
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