Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:23 AM - Re: Pin extract problem (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 06:53 AM - Re: Pin extract problem (Charlie England)
3. 06:57 AM - KX165 display board (Alec Myers)
4. 10:02 AM - Re: Pin extract problem (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 11:48 AM - Re: Pin extract problem (Ron Burnett)
6. 11:51 AM - Re: Pin extract problem (Ron Burnett)
7. 12:02 PM - Re: Pin extract problem (Lyle Peterson)
8. 12:16 PM - Re: Pin extract problem (don van santen)
9. 02:04 PM - Re: KX165 display board (skywagon185guy)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Pin extract problem |
At 09:00 PM 7/2/2019, you wrote:
>Ron,
>
>I'm done mowing the lawn now so I'm allowed to
>sit down at my laptop and type a real reply to you. :-)
>
>First, use one of the extraction tools made out
>of metal. If your Radio Shack tool is all
>plastic, it is much harder to get the job done and it might not work at
all.
>
>Slide the extraction end of the tool around the
>pin. That is the more round end. The insertion
>end is more open, more like a spoon. See=C2
><http://www.steinair.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/SAT-023-CONTACT-INSERTI
ON-REMOVAL-TOOL.pdf>http://www.steinair.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/SAT-0
23-CONTACT-INSERTION-REMOVAL-TOOL.pdf
>
>After the tool clicks home, grab the pin itself
>with tweezers or small needle nose pliers and
>push the pin out. If the tool is in place and
>has compressed the barbs, the pin will slide out
>with minimal force. If the pin doesn't slide
>out, remove the tool, rotate it 90 degrees or so, and try again.
>
>Or give me a holler and I'll drive over and do it for you.
When extracting a female pin that
has become detached from its
wire can be pushed out from the
mating side with another female
pin.
The plastic handled tools have two
ends, one tailored for extraction . . .
the other for insertion. They are
identified by the color of the plastic
handle. Here's an updated AEC ShopNotes
that speaks to the details.
https://tinyurl.com/oazfwbc
Unless and until the extraction
tool is properly seated around
the installed pin, the retaining
barbs in the housing remain in
firm control of the pin.
Bob . . .
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Pin extract problem |
On Thu, Jul 4, 2019 at 8:28 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
> At 09:00 PM 7/2/2019, you wrote:
>
> Ron,
>
> I'm done mowing the lawn now so I'm allowed to sit down at my laptop and
> type a real reply to you. :-)
>
> First, use one of the extraction tools made out of metal. If your Radio
> Shack tool is all plastic, it is much harder to get the job done and it
> might not work at all.
>
> Slide the extraction end of the tool around the pin. That is the more
> round end. The insertion end is more open, more like a spoon. See=C3=82
> http://www.steinair.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/SAT-023-CONTACT-INSERT
ION-REMOVAL-TOOL.pdf
>
> After the tool clicks home, grab the pin itself with tweezers or small
> needle nose pliers and push the pin out. If the tool is in place and has
> compressed the barbs, the pin will slide out with minimal force. If the p
in
> doesn't slide out, remove the tool, rotate it 90 degrees or so, and try
> again.
>
> Or give me a holler and I'll drive over and do it for you.
>
>
> When extracting a female pin that
> has become detached from its
> wire can be pushed out from the
> mating side with another female
> pin.
>
> The plastic handled tools have two
> ends, one tailored for extraction . . .
> the other for insertion. They are
> identified by the color of the plastic
> handle. Here's an updated AEC ShopNotes
> that speaks to the details.
>
> https://tinyurl.com/oazfwbc
>
> Unless and until the extraction
> tool is properly seated around
> the installed pin, the retaining
> barbs in the housing remain in
> firm control of the pin.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
Heads-up; the 'click here' for more info link in the last frame just goes
to your site search page. Also, the price of the tool has gone up a bit...
tyco @ Digikey
<https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-application-tooling/91285-1/A
9979-ND/132443>
Message 3
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| Subject: | KX165 display board |
Does anyone have a handle on whether its possible (and easy) to exchange the display
from a KX155 (display works) to a KX165 (display missing some segments)?
Both 28V.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Pin extract problem |
At 07:06 PM 7/3/2019, you wrote:
>
>So the real question I have is what were the circumstances under
>which the wire came out of the pin. What kind of pins and what kind
>of crimped did you use?
>
>When crimped and strain relieffed properly these are pretty strong.
>My concern is that if one came out are others to follow because of
>improper crimping. To be certain, I would give each Eire a tug.
>
>I only use machined males and females and have replaced off brand
>with AMP BRAND MACHINED PINS/sockets. Perhaps that is my paranoia speaking
good points. to be sure the open-barrel
formed sheet metal pins are more susceptible
to failures of tooling and technique.
Pins marketed under the mil spec numbers
are low risk . . . as are most of the
commercial clones.
https://tinyurl.com/y5ttnnrh
https://tinyurl.com/y6o6n98d
What gage wire are we talking about?
Did the wire pull out or break off?
If pulled out, it's a sure bet that
it was under-crimped . . . hard to
do with a ratchet 4-die tool . . .
unless it was a really too-small
wire.
When putting 24-26 AWG into a D20
pin, I double over the stranding.
As a design rule, I very rarely use
anything smaller than 22AWG for
any purpose . . . disadvantages
far outweigh the advantages.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Pin extract problem |
I must plead guilty as I set this up to happen. I added a GRT Sport after OS
H 2 years ago and ran an unbundled wire to the new unit. Then after last OS
H I added UAT Echo/Safe-fly. Had always planned to run more wires to the se
cond unit but haven=99t figured it all out yet, so the serial port cro
ssover that fed ADBS and the second screen was the culprit and broken wire a
t the female pin. I pulled the main EFIS and it was hanging by the wires. M
arines call all this a self inflicted wound, but it is still a wound.
I am also guilty of loving to fly more than work on the panel, especially in
the summer heat.
Thanks to this list and Bob for all the helpful advice.
Ron Burnett
May you have the Lord's blessings today!
Sent from my iPad
> On Jul 4, 2019, at 11:33 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aeroele
ctric.com> wrote:
>
> At 07:06 PM 7/3/2019, you wrote:
>>
>> So the real question I have is what were the circumstances under which th
e wire came out of the pin. What kind of pins and what kind of crimped did y
ou use?
>>
>> When crimped and strain relieffed properly these are pretty strong. My co
ncern is that if one came out are others to follow because of improper crimp
ing. To be certain, I would give each Eire a tug.
>>
>> I only use machined males and females and have replaced off brand with AM
P BRAND MACHINED PINS/sockets. Perhaps that is my paranoia speaking
>
> good points. to be sure the open-barrel
> formed sheet metal pins are more susceptible
> to failures of tooling and technique.
>
> Pins marketed under the mil spec numbers
> are low risk . . . as are most of the
> commercial clones.
>
> https://tinyurl.com/y5ttnnrh
>
> https://tinyurl.com/y6o6n98d
>
> What gage wire are we talking about?
>
> Did the wire pull out or break off?
> If pulled out, it's a sure bet that
> it was under-crimped . . . hard to
> do with a ratchet 4-die tool . . .
> unless it was a really too-small
> wire.
>
> When putting 24-26 AWG into a D20
> pin, I double over the stranding.
> As a design rule, I very rarely use
> anything smaller than 22AWG for
> any purpose . . . disadvantages
> far outweigh the advantages.
>
>
>
> Bob . . .
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Pin extract problem |
My problem has been the extractor tool I have will not slip over the female p
in. I have tried until I am ashamed.
Ron Burnett
May you have the Lord's blessings today!
Sent from my iPad
> On Jul 4, 2019, at 8:22 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob@aeroelec
tric.com> wrote:
>
> At 09:00 PM 7/2/2019, you wrote:
>> Ron,
>>
>> I'm done mowing the lawn now so I'm allowed to sit down at my laptop and t
ype a real reply to you. :-)
>>
>> First, use one of the extraction tools made out of metal. If your Radio S
hack tool is all plastic, it is much harder to get the job done and it might
not work at all.
>>
>> Slide the extraction end of the tool around the pin. That is the more rou
nd end. The insertion end is more open, more like a spoon. See=C3=82 http://
www.steinair.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/SAT-023-CONTACT-INSERTION-REMOVA
L-TOOL.pdf
>>
>> After the tool clicks home, grab the pin itself with tweezers or small ne
edle nose pliers and push the pin out. If the tool is in place and has compr
essed the barbs, the pin will slide out with minimal force. If the pin doesn
't slide out, remove the tool, rotate it 90 degrees or so, and try again.
>>
>> Or give me a holler and I'll drive over and do it for you.
>
> When extracting a female pin that
> has become detached from its
> wire can be pushed out from the
> mating side with another female
> pin.
>
> The plastic handled tools have two
> ends, one tailored for extraction . . .
> the other for insertion. They are
> identified by the color of the plastic
> handle. Here's an updated AEC ShopNotes
> that speaks to the details.
>
> https://tinyurl.com/oazfwbc
>
> Unless and until the extraction
> tool is properly seated around
> the installed pin, the retaining
> barbs in the housing remain in
> firm control of the pin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bob . . .
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Pin extract problem |
I bought two metal pin extraction tools at the local auto parts store,
in the aviation department.
On 7/4/2019 1:50 PM, Ron Burnett wrote:
> My problem has been the extractor tool I have will not slip over the
> female pin. I have tried until I am ashamed.
>
> Ron Burnett
>
> May you have the Lord's blessings today!
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Jul 4, 2019, at 8:22 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III
> <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com <mailto:nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>>
> wrote:
>
>> At 09:00 PM 7/2/2019, you wrote:
>>> Ron,
>>>
>>> I'm done mowing the lawn now so I'm allowed to sit down at my laptop
>>> and type a real reply to you. :-)
>>>
>>> First, use one of the extraction tools made out of metal. If your
>>> Radio Shack tool is all plastic, it is much harder to get the job
>>> done and it might not work at all.
>>>
>>> Slide the extraction end of the tool around the pin. That is the
>>> more round end. The insertion end is more open, more like a spoon.
>>> See
>>> http://www.steinair.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/SAT-023-CONTACT-INSERTION-REMOVAL-TOOL.pdf
>>>
>>>
>>> After the tool clicks home, grab the pin itself with tweezers or
>>> small needle nose pliers and push the pin out. If the tool is in
>>> place and has compressed the barbs, the pin will slide out with
>>> minimal force. If the pin doesn't slide out, remove the tool, rotate
>>> it 90 degrees or so, and try again.
>>>
>>> Or give me a holler and I'll drive over and do it for you.
>>
>> When extracting a female pin that
>> has become detached from its
>> wire can be pushed out from the
>> mating side with another female
>> pin.
>>
>> The plastic handled tools have two
>> ends, one tailored for extraction . . .
>> the other for insertion. They are
>> identified by the color of the plastic
>> handle. Here's an updated AEC ShopNotes
>> that speaks to the details.
>>
>> https://tinyurl.com/oazfwbc <https://tinyurl.com/oazfwbc>
>>
>> Unless and until the extraction
>> tool is properly seated around
>> the installed pin, the retaining
>> barbs in the housing remain in
>> firm control of the pin.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Bob . . .
>>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Pin extract problem |
The red and white pin tool has an insertion end (red) and an extraction end
(white). Sometimes it is difficult to get the white one on a socket. In
that case I have had good luck using the insertion tool to do the
extraction.
On Thu, Jul 4, 2019, 12:07 Lyle Peterson <lyleap@centurylink.net> wrote:
> I bought two metal pin extraction tools at the local auto parts store, in
> the aviation department.
> On 7/4/2019 1:50 PM, Ron Burnett wrote:
>
> My problem has been the extractor tool I have will not slip over the
> female pin. I have tried until I am ashamed.
>
> Ron Burnett
>
> May you have the Lord's blessings today!
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Jul 4, 2019, at 8:22 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <
> nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com> wrote:
>
> At 09:00 PM 7/2/2019, you wrote:
>
> Ron,
>
> I'm done mowing the lawn now so I'm allowed to sit down at my laptop and
> type a real reply to you. :-)
>
> First, use one of the extraction tools made out of metal. If your Radio
> Shack tool is all plastic, it is much harder to get the job done and it
> might not work at all.
>
> Slide the extraction end of the tool around the pin. That is the more
> round end. The insertion end is more open, more like a spoon. See=C3=82
> http://www.steinair.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/SAT-023-CONTACT-INSERT
ION-REMOVAL-TOOL.pdf
>
> After the tool clicks home, grab the pin itself with tweezers or small
> needle nose pliers and push the pin out. If the tool is in place and has
> compressed the barbs, the pin will slide out with minimal force. If the p
in
> doesn't slide out, remove the tool, rotate it 90 degrees or so, and try
> again.
>
> Or give me a holler and I'll drive over and do it for you.
>
>
> When extracting a female pin that
> has become detached from its
> wire can be pushed out from the
> mating side with another female
> pin.
>
> The plastic handled tools have two
> ends, one tailored for extraction . . .
> the other for insertion. They are
> identified by the color of the plastic
> handle. Here's an updated AEC ShopNotes
> that speaks to the details.
>
> https://tinyurl.com/oazfwbc
>
> Unless and until the extraction
> tool is properly seated around
> the installed pin, the retaining
> barbs in the housing remain in
> firm control of the pin.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: KX165 display board |
I have swapped out bad (missing segments) glass display "panels" for the
KX155 and it is quite easy once the front panel is removed. I have not
done same to a KX165, but I suspect it would be the same. And, I would
assume the displays maybe the same. . .
One note... be sure to have the front panel knobs set to some known
position before removing same, so on reassembly you get them indexed
correctly.
The glass display slips into a friction type long socket. Nothing elaborate
.
On Thu, Jul 4, 2019 at 6:56 AM Alec Myers <alec@alecmyers.com> wrote:
>
> Does anyone have a handle on whether it=99s possible (and easy) to
exchange
> the display from a KX155 (display works) to a KX165 (display missing some
> segments)?
> Both 28V.
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
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