Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:32 AM - Re: Replacement fuel pipe (Duncan McFadyean)
2. 01:48 AM - Re: Rotax Regulator Wiring (Duncan McFadyean)
3. 02:02 AM - Re: Digitrak AP (Duncan McFadyean)
4. 02:12 AM - Re: Rotax Regulator Wiring (Richard Holder)
5. 04:44 AM - wingtip light covers (Graham Singleton)
6. 04:47 AM - Windscreen Conduits (Tony Renshaw)
7. 07:30 AM - Re: Aerobatics (Fergus Kyle)
8. 09:54 AM - Micro-mesh treatment of windscreen scratches (Alan Stewart)
9. 11:47 AM - Re: Micro-mesh treatment of windscreen scratches (Rob Housman)
10. 01:02 PM - Re: Micro-mesh treatment of windscreen scratches (Cliff Shaw)
11. 03:33 PM - Re: Micro-mesh treatment of windscreen scratches (Bill Henderson)
12. 05:39 PM - Re: wingtip light covers (Rocketman)
13. 05:39 PM - Re: Rotax Regulator Wiring (Kingsley Hurst)
14. 06:52 PM - Re: wingtip light covers ()
15. 08:02 PM - Monroy ADT-300 Traffic Detector (Fabian Lefler)
16. 08:54 PM - Re: Rotax Regulator Wiring (n3eu@comcast.net)
17. 09:55 PM - Re: Rotax Regulator Wiring (Kingsley Hurst)
18. 10:27 PM - Re: Rotax Regulator Wiring (Kingsley Hurst)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Replacement fuel pipe |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Duncan McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
"Injection" fuel hose has a thin flexible layer (or "lacquering") of
fluoro-elastomer on the bore, which provides exceptional resistance both to
'sour' petrol and to some of the nastier additives in unleaded Mogas. Hence
its terrible cost.
Any hose compliant to SAEJ30 R9 should have this.
Thinking aloud, this hose would probably be less permeable to fuel VAPOUR
and smell less on the exterior.
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: <n3eu@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Replacement fuel pipe
> --> Europa-List message posted by: n3eu@comcast.net
>
> > The automotive line here in the USA that Europa is promoting is Fuel
> > injector line. Very flexable and easy to work with but it's high price
line
> > at about $5.00 a foot.
>
> Low pressure, automotive fuel hose is a lot cheaper than that, and what I
used. I had thought "injector" hose is unique only in the high pressure it
> carries. Highest I've seen so far is 60psi per service manual for my
latest
> new car. Is there any other difference? Carries the same fuel.
>
> Regards,
> Fred F.
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax Regulator Wiring |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Duncan McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
The wire size called out by the Rotax manual for 'current-carrying'
regulator connections is 2.5mm2; which is somewhere between 12g (3.35mm2)
and 14g (2.08mm2).
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Holder" <rholder@avnet.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Rotax Regulator Wiring
> --> Europa-List message posted by: Richard Holder <rholder@avnet.co.uk>
>
> > I am no expert on this but perhaps I can explain how I see it. As far as
I
> > can tell the two alternator yellow leads produce AC which is rectified
by
> > the regulator before going through the rest of the regulator circuitry.
As
> > all the AC power produced by the yellow alternator wires enters the
> > regulator then its DC output can be seen as though the regulator and
> > alternator combined are a DC generator. As such this 'generator' has to
have
> > a return back to the regulator case capable of handling it maximum
output.
> > With that in mind the use of 10 gauge cable as a minimum size is
probably a
> > wise precaution. Certainly if I had 20gauge cable I would look at
upgrading
> > to 10gauge just for piece of mind (new regulators are not cheap).
>
> I had assumed that the earth from the regulator (I see now that it is
called
> a rectifier-regulator) was just something to provide an earth reference.
> Mine is just 22 AWG. Nothing, anywhere, shows that it needs a large cable
to
> complete the circuit.
>
> I will be changing it very very soon to 10 AWG (12 would be OK - will take
> 24 amps)
>
> It might explain the somewhat inconsistent readings on my oil pressure and
> oil and water temperature gauges. My 22 AWG is acting as a resistor when
> carrying 10 amps or more.
>
> I suppose the rectifier-regulator is really designed for bolting to the
> chassis of a metal aircraft/motor bike. For our purposes it should have a
> proper faston tag for the earth, just like all the other connections. Ring
> connectors are more subject to corrosion.
>
> Richard - still learning !
>
> As a matter of interest I am looking for a co-owner for G-OWWW, Someone
with
> a mechanical bent/interest/knowledge of Europas. A deal could be
negotiated.
> Someone who lives in East Herts or West Essex would be best. If anyone is
> interested, or knows anyone who might be interested, please contact me
> initially on this email address, off list.
>
> rholder@avnet.co.uk
>
> Richard Holder
>
>
Message 3
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Duncan McFadyean" <ami@mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
I'd like to hear (off forum) from whoever it was that kindly sent me a
detail for the circuit of a warning light required by PFA for the above.
There's a problem with it you should know about!.
Duncan Mcf.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax Regulator Wiring |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Richard Holder <rholder@avnet.co.uk>
>
> The wire size called out by the Rotax manual for 'current-carrying'
> regulator connections is 2.5mm2; which is somewhere between 12g (3.35mm2)
> and 14g (2.08mm2).
>
> Duncan McF.
Sure - thanks. I will probably use 12AWG.
But it was an easy mistake to make - NO-WHERE is that earth connection from
the rectifier-regulator marked as being "high current carrying" or any
similar term. It is in the installation manual as an earth, just like the
earth to the starter solenoid.
I rather expect it to improve the stability of my engine instruments when
this earth is properly installed ! 12 or 14 amps through 22AWG will have
heated it up a LOT ! And increased its resistance (I think)
Richard
Richard F.W. Holder 01279 842804 (POTS)
Bell House, Bell Lane, 01279 842942 (fax)
Widford, Ware, Herts, 07860 367423 (mobile)
SG12 8SH email : rholder@avnet.co.uk
Europa Classic Tri-gear : G-OWWW, EGSG (Stapleford)
PA-28-181 : Piper Archer : G-JANA, EGSG (Stapleford)
Message 5
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| Subject: | wingtip light covers |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Graham Singleton <graham@gflight.f9.co.uk>
At 23:56 08/05/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>On another note, I started working with the wingtip lighting, today.
>I'll be trying my hand at molding my own tips. Design is fairly simple
>and hopefully will work for the tips. I have three materials that I
>want to try. One is simple plexiglass. The others are PTFE and
>polycarbonate. I'll let everyone know how the experiment works. I just
>hate springing for $60 USD, each for clear tips...
Been there Jeff
I made some covers with Paul McAllister. We can sell them at $79 a pair.
Tom Froedland might still have a spare set?
Graham
Message 6
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| Subject: | Windscreen Conduits |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw@optusnet.com.au>
Gidday,
I am working on my top, and am wondering if this is a good time to install
a conduit forward of the door rebate and behind the windscreen. I know for
ease of work this is the right time, and am wondering what ideas people
have. I haven't checked the manual, but I believe the windscreen flange is
cut back to 20 mm, or thereabouts, so I suppose I have as much as that to
play with, considering I also need a small amount of flange remaining
uncovered to attach trim to. So, any suggestions, please???
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Sydney Australia
Classic 236 B.B. Taildragger (possibly convertible)
Tail, Wings, Ailerons, Flaps Complete and Connected
Lower Fuse in Jig, Tail Torque Tube installed
Mass Balance assembly installed and deflections sorted
Intended Engine: 912S CS prop (model undecided)
Instrumentation: Undecided
Message 7
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Aerobatics
| --> Europa-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister"
<paul.mcallister@qia.net>
|
| Rowland,
|
| Europa Aircraft have published on there WEB site the following *Max
takeoff
| weight can be increased to 1,450lb in the USA only
| This can be seen on the bottom the page at
| http://www.europa-aircraft.com/Aircraft/EuropaXS.htm|
| I assume that like the gallon, a pound in the US weights less :-)......|
| Paul
Now, Paul.........
It may be that USA drivers, airborne, are so much smoother -
that the G forces are applied well within the limits set by PFA - they, who
recognize the attributes of the average UK lasher, airframe, better than we
readers.................
I don't want to cause any trouble, of course.
Ferg
Message 8
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| Subject: | Micro-mesh treatment of windscreen scratches |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Alan Stewart" <alan.stewart@blueyonder.co.uk>
Hi Guys,
I had a few nasty scratches on the passenger side windshield on my
classic Europa from hurried panel removal.
Micro mesh seemed the obvious solution, and I'd been pre-warned it need
a fair amount of time and elbow grease to obtain a desirable outcome.
Well, after about 3 hours, and two or three attempts, the original
scratches are nowhere to be seen !
In their place is the faint 'misting affect' of thousands of tiny
scratches from the Micro mesh itself. Perhaps part of the problem is the
curved shape of the affected area, and the difficulty of maintaining
direction when polishing.
Now, perhaps we just weren't determined enough, but we did try damn hard
and its very frustrating.
Does anyone have advice as to how to remove this affect ? It would've
been great had we succeeded, and I'd have probably carried on to do the
whole windshield.
How do you get that finally sheen ? Is it worthwhile using another
product to finish the job ?
Would some mechanical device be more effective at keeping to a straight
line ?
Alan. D. Stewart
_____
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Message 9
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| Subject: | Micro-mesh treatment of windscreen scratches |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Rob Housman" <RobH@hyperion-ef.com>
Assuming that the product (with which I am not familiar) is sufficiently
fine (on the order of one micron particle size) you should be able to polish
to a specular finish with no visible haze or scratches, but technique does
matter. Just as for the "color sanding" of the painted finish, optical
polishing requires random motion such as you get when using an orbital
sander. The other important technique is to apply pressure with an orbital
sander or manual pad according to the "Goldilocks Rule" (not too much, not
too little) which unfortunately is something to be determined by trial and
error.
There is also a possibility that you generated enough heat from friction to
soften the plastic material, and if so try again with less pressure and
allow time to cool after polishing for a short time. Check the temperature
by feel - if it is too hot to touch it is just too hot.
You should also expect to have an optical flaw in the polished area, because
as you remove the scratches you will in effect distort the surface by
changing its shape (after all, you are removing the material that surrounds
the scratches in order to remove the scratches themselves). This
unfortunately can not be avoided, and it is something I demonstrated in my
own living room when I locally polished the surface of a glass coffee table
for the same reason you are polishing your windscreen. The human eye is
extremely unforgiving when it comes to optical defects.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
Airframe complete
Irvine, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Alan Stewart
Subject: Europa-List: Micro-mesh treatment of windscreen scratches
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Alan Stewart"
<alan.stewart@blueyonder.co.uk>
Hi Guys,
I had a few nasty scratches on the passenger side windshield on my
classic Europa from hurried panel removal.
Micro mesh seemed the obvious solution, and I'd been pre-warned it need
a fair amount of time and elbow grease to obtain a desirable outcome.
Well, after about 3 hours, and two or three attempts, the original
scratches are nowhere to be seen !
In their place is the faint 'misting affect' of thousands of tiny
scratches from the Micro mesh itself. Perhaps part of the problem is the
curved shape of the affected area, and the difficulty of maintaining
direction when polishing.
Now, perhaps we just weren't determined enough, but we did try damn hard
and its very frustrating.
Does anyone have advice as to how to remove this affect ? It would've
been great had we succeeded, and I'd have probably carried on to do the
whole windshield.
How do you get that finally sheen ? Is it worthwhile using another
product to finish the job ?
Would some mechanical device be more effective at keeping to a straight
line ?
Alan. D. Stewart
_____
I've stopped 273 spam messages. You can too!
Get your free, safe spam protection at www.cloudmark.com
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Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Micro-mesh treatment of windscreen scratches |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@comcast.net>
Alan
You have started in the right direction. I used to do lapidary work and have
some "polishing" experience. Plex is very soft compared to the rocks I used
to work on , but the procedure is the same.
The sanding you do with one grit of sanding is only to remove the scratches
of the previous step. In my kit of micro-mesh, I thing there are 6 different
grits and then a polish. The first step sands the plex down and removes the
offending scratch. The next step removes the scratched of the first step.
(got the idea)
Good luck and don't be in a hurry to go to the next step.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Stewart" <alan.stewart@blueyonder.co.uk>
Subject: Europa-List: Micro-mesh treatment of windscreen scratches
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Alan Stewart"
<alan.stewart@blueyonder.co.uk>
>
> Hi Guys,
>
> I had a few nasty scratches on the passenger side windshield on my
> classic Europa from hurried panel removal.
>
> Micro mesh seemed the obvious solution, and I'd been pre-warned it need
> a fair amount of time and elbow grease to obtain a desirable outcome.
>
> Well, after about 3 hours, and two or three attempts, the original
> scratches are nowhere to be seen !
> In their place is the faint 'misting affect' of thousands of tiny
> scratches from the Micro mesh itself. Perhaps part of the problem is the
> curved shape of the affected area, and the difficulty of maintaining
> direction when polishing.
>
> Now, perhaps we just weren't determined enough, but we did try damn hard
> and its very frustrating.
>
> Does anyone have advice as to how to remove this affect ? It would've
> been great had we succeeded, and I'd have probably carried on to do the
> whole windshield.
>
> How do you get that finally sheen ? Is it worthwhile using another
> product to finish the job ?
> Would some mechanical device be more effective at keeping to a straight
> line ?
> Alan. D. Stewart
>
>
> _____
>
> I've stopped 273 spam messages. You can too!
> Get your free, safe spam protection at www.cloudmark.com
> <http://www.cloudmark.com/spamnet?v1>
> <http://www.cloudmark.com/> Cloudmark SpamNet - Join the fight against
> spam!
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Micro-mesh treatment of windscreen scratches |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Bill Henderson" <europabill@bellsouth.net>
Would you believe LP Aero had a seminar at Sun-n-fun on polishing out
scratches......
I guess the quick answer to your problem is that they mentioned not
concentrating on the scratch when you're trying to remove it. Even if
you've got a small scratch you need to polish an area 2 or 3 inches bigger
than the scratch for the first pass and then expand out even further for
subsequent passes. It's suppose to cut down on the halo effect you
mentioned. You might try sending them an email to see if they have any "how
to" instructions. Their web site is http://www.lpaero.com/
Bill Henderson
A010
Monowheel Classic
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Stewart" <alan.stewart@blueyonder.co.uk>
Subject: Europa-List: Micro-mesh treatment of windscreen scratches
> --> Europa-List message posted by: "Alan Stewart"
<alan.stewart@blueyonder.co.uk>
>
> Hi Guys,
>
> I had a few nasty scratches on the passenger side windshield on my
> classic Europa from hurried panel removal.
>
> Micro mesh seemed the obvious solution, and I'd been pre-warned it need
> a fair amount of time and elbow grease to obtain a desirable outcome.
>
> Well, after about 3 hours, and two or three attempts, the original
> scratches are nowhere to be seen !
> In their place is the faint 'misting affect' of thousands of tiny
> scratches from the Micro mesh itself. Perhaps part of the problem is the
> curved shape of the affected area, and the difficulty of maintaining
> direction when polishing.
>
> Now, perhaps we just weren't determined enough, but we did try damn hard
> and its very frustrating.
>
> Does anyone have advice as to how to remove this affect ? It would've
> been great had we succeeded, and I'd have probably carried on to do the
> whole windshield.
>
> How do you get that finally sheen ? Is it worthwhile using another
> product to finish the job ?
> Would some mechanical device be more effective at keeping to a straight
> line ?
> Alan. D. Stewart
>
>
> _____
>
> I've stopped 273 spam messages. You can too!
> Get your free, safe spam protection at www.cloudmark.com
> <http://www.cloudmark.com/spamnet?v1>
> <http://www.cloudmark.com/> Cloudmark SpamNet - Join the fight against
> spam!
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: wingtip light covers |
--> Europa-List message posted by: Rocketman <topglock@cox.net>
Graham Singleton wrote:
>--> Europa-List message posted by: Graham Singleton <graham@gflight.f9.co.uk>
>
>At 23:56 08/05/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>
>
>>On another note, I started working with the wingtip lighting, today.
>>I'll be trying my hand at molding my own tips. Design is fairly simple
>>and hopefully will work for the tips. I have three materials that I
>>want to try. One is simple plexiglass. The others are PTFE and
>>polycarbonate. I'll let everyone know how the experiment works. I just
>>hate springing for $60 USD, each for clear tips...
>>
>>
>
>Been there Jeff
>I made some covers with Paul McAllister. We can sell them at $79 a pair.
>Tom Froedland might still have a spare set?
>Graham
>
>
>
>
Graham,
Do yu have pics or a link to the covers?
Tanks,
Jeff - A055
Builders Log: http://www.N55XS.com
Message 13
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| Subject: | Rotax Regulator Wiring |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr@growzone.com.au>
Richard Holder wrote:
> I rather expect it to improve the stability of my engine instruments
when
this earth is properly installed ! 12 or 14 amps through 22AWG will have
heated it up a LOT ! And increased its resistance (I think)
Richard,
Please let us know if the heavier earth wire does in fact improve the
stability of your engine instruments. It is from things like this that
we learn. I suspect this might be a good example of a ground loop
situation but with my limited knowledge ......
Regards
Kingsley Hurst
Mono Classic 281 in Oz.
Message 14
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| Subject: | wingtip light covers |
--> Europa-List message posted by: <beecho@beecho.org>
Hi Jeff
Yes, I have an extra set of Graham's lenses. They are very well made.
I tried to make my own too and did succeed in making several but I was
not happy with them. Graham's are much better and reasonably priced. I
think I will keep my extra set incase any thing happens to one of mine
in the future. They are of different thickness but otherwise of
identical size and I could easily replace one should it get damaged,
crazed, etc.
I have also assembled kit LED position lights with landing lights for
them. They look great, low power drain, never burn out, etc.
Tom Friedland A 079 mono Jabiru Airmaster N96V California
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rocketman
Subject: Re: Europa-List: wingtip light covers
--> Europa-List message posted by: Rocketman <topglock@cox.net>
Graham Singleton wrote:
>--> Europa-List message posted by: Graham Singleton
<graham@gflight.f9.co.uk>
>
>At 23:56 08/05/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>
>
>>On another note, I started working with the wingtip lighting, today.
>>I'll be trying my hand at molding my own tips. Design is fairly
simple
>>and hopefully will work for the tips. I have three materials that I
>>want to try. One is simple plexiglass. The others are PTFE and
>>polycarbonate. I'll let everyone know how the experiment works. I
just
>>hate springing for $60 USD, each for clear tips...
>>
>>
>
>Been there Jeff
>I made some covers with Paul McAllister. We can sell them at $79 a
pair.
>Tom Froedland might still have a spare set?
>Graham
>
>
>
>
Graham,
Do yu have pics or a link to the covers?
Tanks,
Jeff - A055
Builders Log: http://www.N55XS.com
==
==
==
==
Message 15
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|
<lancair-list@matronics.com>, <rocket-list@matronics.com>,
<rv3-list@matronics.com>, <rv4-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Monroy ADT-300 Traffic Detector |
1.6 LINK_TO_NO_SCHEME BODY: Contains link without http:// prefix
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Fabian Lefler" <fablef@bellsouth.net>
For the last couple of weeks, I have had a number of calls from builders
inquiring about the arrival of additional ADT-300 units. We sold out
our first batch fairly quickly, and have received a second batch.
However, it appears that the manufacturer can't seem to catch with the
demand fast enough, so we don't know how long they will be around for
those that interested.
If you are interested in finding out about the product, you can see can
click here http://www.affordablepanels.com/monroy300.htm
Regards,
Fabian Lefler
www.affordablepanels.com
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax Regulator Wiring |
--> Europa-List message posted by: n3eu@comcast.net
Kingsley Hurst wrote:
>
> Richard Holder wrote:
>
>> I rather expect it to improve the stability of my engine instruments
>> when this earth is properly installed ! 12 or 14 amps through 22AWG
>> will have heated it up a LOT ! And increased its resistance (I think)
>
> Richard,
>
> Please let us know if the heavier earth wire does in fact improve the
> stability of your engine instruments. It is from things like this that
> we learn. I suspect this might be a good example of a ground loop
> situation but with my limited knowledge ......
Folks, we don't use #22 wire to carry up to 20 A; it will get hot to the
point of insulation failure. But nor can there be any ground loop if
no device's ground wire is connected at the regulator. Nor does the gauge
of the wire have any appreciable effect on RFI or EFI issues.
Regards,
Fred F.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Rotax Regulator Wiring |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr@growzone.com.au>
I said:
> I suspect this might be a good example of a ground loop
> situation but with my limited knowledge ......
Fred said :
> But nor can there be any ground loop if
no device's ground wire is connected at the regulator.
See Fred, I did say "limited knowledge" and now I have demonstrable
proven just how limited ! !
Ah well, back to the Aeroelectric Connection.
Regards
Kingsley
Message 18
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--> Europa-List message posted by: "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr@growzone.com.au>
Oops, before Tony Renshaw sees it, I meant 'demonstrably proven' not
'demonstrable'
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