Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:30 AM - Re: Bleeding Jamar finger brakes (Ivor Phillips)
2. 07:03 AM - Re: RotaxEngines-List: Re: carb balancing (rlborger)
3. 07:52 AM - Re: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Re: carb balancing (Paul McAllister)
4. 09:34 AM - Bleeding Jamar Brakes (Mrs. Julian Roy.)
5. 11:37 AM - Re: Europaprecision? (Steve Hagar)
6. 01:02 PM - Re: Europaprecision? (Fred Klein)
7. 01:26 PM - mounting quick-connect bellcrank brackets into cockpit module and Europaprecision ()
8. 01:49 PM - Re: Europaprecision? (karelvranken)
9. 03:22 PM - Re: mounting quick-connect bellcrank brackets into (josok)
10. 04:29 PM - Re: mounting quick-connect bellcrank brackets into (Robert C Harrison)
11. 05:25 PM - Re: Europaprecision? (Greg Fuchs (FB))
12. 05:25 PM - Re: mounting quick-connect bellcrank brackets into (Greg Fuchs (FB))
13. 05:25 PM - Re: mounting quick-connect bellcrank brackets into (Greg Fuchs (FB))
14. 10:44 PM - Re: mounting quick-connect bellcrank brackets into (josok)
Message 1
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Subject: | Bleeding Jamar finger brakes |
Some Jamar cylinder's had poor machining on the bores, Definitely worth
checking, When checking the bore's also check the seals, On my
first cylinder I had mis-match seals of different materials, this
prompted me to replace all my seals with good quality ones, When
both piston's are at rest they should be clear of a cross drilled
connection in the body of the master cylinder, check it isn't
obstructed, On the front of the piston seals are plastic washer's these
can stick in the bores so reduce there size slightly, I have done away
with the DOT5 Silicone fluid entirely , replacing it with the DOT 5.1
glycol based fluids, But if you do this all your seals will need
replacing including the seals in the handbrake valve and calipers,
Bleeding was as simple as putting a small funnel on top of the reservoir
filled with fluid so the master cylinder had a good head of fluid,
Undoing a caliper bleed nipple one at a time and watch the air being
expelled, The reason DOT 5 Silicone fluid is recommended is because it
is combatable with both types of rubber seals used in the Master
cylinder and Calipers/handbrake valve, If you check the archives there
is a lot of information
Regards
Ivor
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
rob@Neils.US
Sent: 30 December 2007 00:54
Subject: Europa-List: Bleeding Jamar finger brakes
My reservoir is not pressurized.
I bleed the brakes as Craig describes but I can't get any pressure on
the second stroke unless the Jamar brakes are verticle instead or
horizontal.
I can get all the air out of the system by working the cylinders only
when verticle then pumping fluid up from the brake nipple to where the
brake line loosely connects to the clylinders until I get no bubbles the
I tighten the cylinder/line connection. Doing this makes the brakes
work well...for quite a while but when I have to bleed the system again
I have to dismount the cylinders and loosen the cylinder/line connection
allowing bubbles and brake fluid to seep out until I tighten the
connection. It's a real pain to go through all this to simply bleed the
brakes...and it makes a mess.
There's gotta be something wrong with the system that I haven't yet been
able to figure out. Maybe a leak? Maybe a piston part in backwards?
Maybe poor machining on the cylinders allowing leak-by on the return
stroke?
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: RotaxEngines-List: Re: carb balancing |
Paul,
Having read your comments and gone through a Google search, reading
the posted comments, I'm convinced. I'll order one.
Now, which set of fittings are needed for the Rotax? Standard? BMW?
5mm? 6mm?
Thanks...
Good building and great flying,
Bob Borger
Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, Intercooled 914, Airmaster C/S
http://www.europaowners.org/N914XL
(90%) tail kit done, wings closed, cockpit module installed, pitch
system in, landing gear frame in, rudder system in, outrigger mod in,
Fuselage Top on, lift/drag/flap pins in, wing incidence set, tie bar
in, flap drive in, Mod 70 done. Baggage bay in. Flaps & Main Gear
complete. Mod 72 complete. Instrument panel complete, except for
testing. Rotax 914 installed (for the 3rd time). Airmaster Prop
installed. Electrical complete, except for testing. Fuel system
complete except for testing. Working in - 32 Tail, 34 Door Latches &
35 Doors, 37 Interior & Finishing. Airmaster arrived 29 Sep 05.
Seat arrived from Oregon Aero. E04 interior kit has arrived and is
being installed.
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208
Home: 940-497-2123
Cel: 817-992-1117
On Dec 29, 2007, at 9:14 PM, Paul McAllister wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I just wanted to share my experience with carburettor balancing. I
> purchased the vacuum gaauges from Lockwood aviation, but for some
> reason I was never able to get them balanced nicely. In particular
> I would find I had a vibration in the range of 3200 ~ 3500 RPM.
>
> Any how I purchased a TwinMax carburettor balancer. This thing is
> awesome, it has variable sensitivity and I can get them nuts on
> using this thing. I am able to idle my 914T ar 1500 RPM nicely.
> It makes quite a difference to my Europa during the landing phase.
> If you google TwinMax you can find several suppliers. Tryhttp://
> www.adventuremotogear.com/twinmax.mgi?mgiToken=29HJXUUF
>
> Cheers, Paul
>
> N378PJ
> http://www.europa.net.nz/363/index.html
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Subject: | Re: RotaxEngines-List: Re: carb balancing |
Hi Bob,
Sorry mate I machined up my own so I can't advise you.
Paul
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Subject: | Bleeding Jamar Brakes |
I've got a solution which works: stretch the spring in the Jamar master
cylinders so that the finger brake levers return to their starting
position with vigor. When the spring returns the lever slowly then
blowing bubbles out of the system can't be done because the bubbles
ascend in the fluid in the long brake lines faster than the master
cylinder replenishes. When a stronger return happens, brake fluid from
the reservour is sucked more vigorously back into the master cylinders
allowing the lever to be pressurized again quickly thus forcing the
bubbles more quickly down the long brake line of a tri-gear.
Message 5
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Subject: | Europaprecision? |
Fred:
I find it contrary to the general consensus that you are struck by the
high degree of precision built into the kit. I was struck by what I
considered that each and every model seems to me to be custom built. Many
of the questions on the forum seek the solution to something not fitting or
lining up right. My aircraft flies true but that is only because of the
many hours making fixtures and jigs to line things up or to purposely make
something slightly misaligned so that the left of the aircraft looks
exactly like the right. Having a mill and lathe in the garage was a
godsend. I had developed a high degree of patience and manual dexterity in
crafting the plane. However now that I am older I seem to have lost alot
of the patience.
Old business: I have tore into the top of the cockpit seatback to get at
the gas tank to pull it out because of the crack. Once the top was off what
was present was slightly disturbing. We have our extra support pads to
keep the tank from pooching into our spar cavity and interfering with the
aileron belcrank rod. Every interior surface looks like that. The top of
the tank is vavy from expansion and the back surface exhibits the same
condition. In all cases flat surfaces of the tank are stressed and buckled
because of the expansion. You just don't see it unless you take the lid
off.
I made note to a motorhead friend of mine at work that my airplane had
gotten a crack in its gas tank. He knows nothing of Europas or of
homebuilt aircraft. He asked me if I had a rotomolded polyethelyne tank.
I said yes. He asked me if I left the tank dry for awhile. Yes again. He
noted to me that there is a kit car company out there that makes custom
tanks as these for cars. The company specifically states that if you mount
the tank by fiberglassing it in and let it dry out. It will crack and they
assume no responsibility. You are supposed to buy their mounting kit and
strap it in.
In any case I don't believe I am going to put my replacement polyethelyne
tank back in the aircraft. I am going to pursue making an aluminum
(aluminium for you other guys) tank up with AN fittings.
Also I also have a pair of reamers available 16 and 16.5 mm, one for the
rough cut and one for the fine cut. I have cut them short and machined a
hex on each end. That way you don't have to pull the endine way out and
you can put a ratchet on the end to run them home.
Check some photos of the tank and the crack attached.
Steve Hagar
A 143
Mesa AZ
> [Original Message]
> From: Fred Klein <fklein@orcasonline.com>
> To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 12/28/2007 5:57:40 PM
> Subject: Europa-List: Europaprecision
>
>
> Hi Guys...and Happy New Year
>
> From time to time in the course of building I am struck by the high
> degree of precision built into our kits. While I salute the company for
> its high quality precision parts, I'm finding that occasionally I
> haven't done my part (at least the first time around) in ensuring that
> the end result measures up to the standard required for the eventual
> hours of trouble-free flying which so many of you (sigh) are already
> enjoying.
>
> For those of you who are still a'buildin' the monowheel and have yet to
> assemble the main landing gear, here's a pitfall I stepped into which
> is easily avoided...with just a tad of forethought:
>
> When installing the bushes in the shock absorber bottom plate (now
> that's a bit of heavy iron!) LG07, do NOT loctite them in until AFTER
> you have ensured that you have smooth rotation on the pin LG04. I
> failed to do this and found that my bushes were mis-aligned just enough
> to cause the pin to bind...if left in this way, there's no doubt in my
> mind that the bushes wouldn't be able to do their job and the result
> would be wear in the holes for the pin in the swing arm LG02 and LG02A
> which I fear would shortly introduce all kinds of slop.
>
> As a consequence of my mistake, I have attempted to use heat to loosen
> the loctite bond to no avail...even w/ a propane torch (while taking
> care to not mar my nicely powdercoated LG07). Attempts to remove the
> bushes are complicated by the soft nature of the bearings.
>
> Sooooo....I've just received 2 new bushings from mcmaster-carr (P/N
> 6391K178) and my plan is to drill out the offending bushes and 'ave
> another go.
>
> This time I'll do a trial assembly of all the parts which the pin LG04
> passes through before indulging w/ the loctite.
>
> Old Pennsylvania Dutch saying: Why do I get so late smarter?
>
> Fred
> A194
>
>
> --
> This message has been scanned for viruses and
> dangerous content by MailScanner, and is
> believed to be clean.
>
>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Europaprecision? |
On Sunday, Dec 30, 2007, at 11:33 US/Pacific, Steve Hagar wrote:
> I have tore into the top of the cockpit seatback to get at
> the gas tank to pull it out because of the crack. Once the top was off
> what
> was present was slightly disturbing. We have our extra support pads
> to
> keep the tank from pooching into our spar cavity and interfering with
> the
> aileron belcrank rod. Every interior surface looks like that. The
> top of
> the tank is vavy from expansion and the back surface exhibits the same
> condition. In all cases flat surfaces of the tank are stressed and
> buckled
> because of the expansion. You just don't see it unless you take the
> lid
> off.
Steve,
Thanks for sharing your frustrations w/ your fuel tank and passing on
your thoughts on the issue of cracking....sobering thoughts and pixs
indeed. A couple of questions:
- When you say "extra support pads", do you mean that you installed
some pads in addition to those called for?...If so, can you describe
them?
- At some point, I seem to recall that the supplied tanks were changed
in some way to eliminate or reduce expansion. When did you purchase
your original tank? Do you know if you have one of the earlier or later
versions of the tank?
- Do you attribute your tank's failure (in part) to any extreme
temperature conditions which it may have been exposed to in your part
of the world?
To Anyone: Would you be willing to share any protocols you follow which
you believe will guard against tank shrinkage and stress cracking?
> I made note to a motorhead friend of mine at work that my airplane had
> gotten a crack in its gas tank. He knows nothing of Europas or of
> homebuilt aircraft. He asked me if I had a rotomolded polyethelyne
> tank.
> I said yes. He asked me if I left the tank dry for awhile. Yes
> again. He
> noted to me that there is a kit car company out there that makes
> custom
> tanks as these for cars. The company specifically states that if you
> mount
> the tank by fiberglassing it in and let it dry out. It will crack and
> they
> assume no responsibility. You are supposed to buy their mounting kit
> and
> strap it in.
I got to confess that I questioned (to myself) the implications of
fibreglassing in a tank which is subject to expansion, but blithely
went ahead and installed it per plans, ignoring that little voice
saying, "Hey...this can't be good, there's got to be a better way!"
As for my previous post about my opinion of the high degree of
precision built into the kit, I made that as an architect and
homebuilder, not as a machinist, so the world of tight tolerances is
one in which I've had virtually no direct experience. I do marvel at
some of the various hardware assemblies and know that if left to my own
devices for fabrication the results would not be
satisfactory...sometimes the designs seem a bit too clever but that's a
story for another time.
> Also I also have a pair of reamers available 16 and 16.5 mm, one for
> the
> rough cut and one for the fine cut. I have cut them short and
> machined a
> hex on each end. That way you don't have to pull the endine way out
> and
> you can put a ratchet on the end to run them home.
That sounds excellent...thanks for your offer to make them available to
others!
Regards and good luck w/ getting your plane back in the air soon,
Fred
--
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dangerous content by MailScanner, and is
believed to be clean.
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Subject: | mounting quick-connect bellcrank brackets into cockpit module |
and Europaprecision
Since this is a hot topic right now, here is my input for the
Europaprecision thread (my view only):
Although there are areas for improvement, I will never expect everything in
a kit as complex as this, to line up perfectly. Without getting into company
names, I have heard builders from other well known composite aircraft
manufacturers cuss profusely about the way some of their kit components
lined up. Even some items (like doors), that were supposedly pre-molded to
fit (and finished, direct from the factory), had to be completely overhauled
over many time-consuming hours before they did. I think that just goes with
the territory for our (stronger than aluminum) 'plastic' airplanes. Again,
just my 2 cents.
That being said, here is my current problem :
I may have a clearance issue, with the top of the bellcrank bracket
encroaching up to a quarter-inch into the sidewall of the fuselage.
When mounting the bellcrank brackets to the back of the cockpit module, the
manual states:
"Set CS14 to be vertical relative to the cockpit module; an eyeball
assessment will be sufficient in this
case. Ensure the spars are clear of the brackets."
Then (again, following the lead in the manual), I tightened a one-quarter
inch rod onto the bellcrank bracket with two nuts on either side. The end of
the rod went well into the wing spar (where I left it), effectively lining
up the bellcrank position. This still allows the bracket to spin in a
circle. I picked a vertical position for both, and bonded them in, then
later bonded the bolts into the bracket holes (and the 3mm plywood), to hold
the bellcrank. Too late now, to redo the quarter inch rod technique.
Upon later inspection, it seems that the outer topmost (with respect to the
aircraft) quarter inch or so, of the bracket, exceeds the fuselage shell
(using the cp module fuselage-connecting flanges as the reference point).
Now granted, it was a straight line look, and the fuselage is curved. Even
so- it seems to me, that it will butt up against the fuselage, and probably
bend inboard slightly, affecting the aileron to cockpit bellcrank mating, by
putting more distance between the two.
I have not placed the module into the fuselage to check it yet, because the
fuselage top currently rests on the bottom part, and have not had a chance
to remove the two. Even so, I think it would be hard to see what's going on
down there, upon placing the module into it, since the mechanism is pretty
well hidden under the seat back.
It could be a non-issue, if the hole cut in the side of the fuselage to
accept the wing spar (wing root area, and molding), is big enough to
encompass the top of the bracket.
Has anyone run into this or had to correct for it, or any ideas?
Thanks in advance,
Greg Fuchs
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Europaprecision? |
Steve,
Most of us are "older". Nevertheless I admire your courage. You will find
every time the solution for the problems that occur. May 2008 be for you
without new mods and without old misfits. Think about the joy when you will
fly your bird very soon.
Happy New Year.
Karel Vranken F-PKRL.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Hagar" <hagargs@earthlink.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2007 8:33 PM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Europaprecision?
> Fred:
>
> I find it contrary to the general consensus that you are struck by the
> high degree of precision built into the kit. I was struck by what I
> considered that each and every model seems to me to be custom built. Many
> of the questions on the forum seek the solution to something not fitting
> or
> lining up right. My aircraft flies true but that is only because of the
> many hours making fixtures and jigs to line things up or to purposely
> make
> something slightly misaligned so that the left of the aircraft looks
> exactly like the right. Having a mill and lathe in the garage was a
> godsend. I had developed a high degree of patience and manual dexterity in
> crafting the plane. However now that I am older I seem to have lost alot
> of the patience.
>
> Old business: I have tore into the top of the cockpit seatback to get at
> the gas tank to pull it out because of the crack. Once the top was off
> what
> was present was slightly disturbing. We have our extra support pads to
> keep the tank from pooching into our spar cavity and interfering with the
> aileron belcrank rod. Every interior surface looks like that. The top of
> the tank is vavy from expansion and the back surface exhibits the same
> condition. In all cases flat surfaces of the tank are stressed and
> buckled
> because of the expansion. You just don't see it unless you take the lid
> off.
> I made note to a motorhead friend of mine at work that my airplane had
> gotten a crack in its gas tank. He knows nothing of Europas or of
> homebuilt aircraft. He asked me if I had a rotomolded polyethelyne tank.
> I said yes. He asked me if I left the tank dry for awhile. Yes again.
> He
> noted to me that there is a kit car company out there that makes custom
> tanks as these for cars. The company specifically states that if you
> mount
> the tank by fiberglassing it in and let it dry out. It will crack and
> they
> assume no responsibility. You are supposed to buy their mounting kit and
> strap it in.
>
> In any case I don't believe I am going to put my replacement polyethelyne
> tank back in the aircraft. I am going to pursue making an aluminum
> (aluminium for you other guys) tank up with AN fittings.
>
> Also I also have a pair of reamers available 16 and 16.5 mm, one for the
> rough cut and one for the fine cut. I have cut them short and machined
> a
> hex on each end. That way you don't have to pull the endine way out and
> you can put a ratchet on the end to run them home.
>
> Check some photos of the tank and the crack attached.
>
> Steve Hagar
> A 143
> Mesa AZ
>
>
>> [Original Message]
>> From: Fred Klein <fklein@orcasonline.com>
>> To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
>> Date: 12/28/2007 5:57:40 PM
>> Subject: Europa-List: Europaprecision
>>
>>
>> Hi Guys...and Happy New Year
>>
>> From time to time in the course of building I am struck by the high
>> degree of precision built into our kits. While I salute the company for
>> its high quality precision parts, I'm finding that occasionally I
>> haven't done my part (at least the first time around) in ensuring that
>> the end result measures up to the standard required for the eventual
>> hours of trouble-free flying which so many of you (sigh) are already
>> enjoying.
>>
>> For those of you who are still a'buildin' the monowheel and have yet to
>> assemble the main landing gear, here's a pitfall I stepped into which
>> is easily avoided...with just a tad of forethought:
>>
>> When installing the bushes in the shock absorber bottom plate (now
>> that's a bit of heavy iron!) LG07, do NOT loctite them in until AFTER
>> you have ensured that you have smooth rotation on the pin LG04. I
>> failed to do this and found that my bushes were mis-aligned just enough
>> to cause the pin to bind...if left in this way, there's no doubt in my
>> mind that the bushes wouldn't be able to do their job and the result
>> would be wear in the holes for the pin in the swing arm LG02 and LG02A
>> which I fear would shortly introduce all kinds of slop.
>>
>> As a consequence of my mistake, I have attempted to use heat to loosen
>> the loctite bond to no avail...even w/ a propane torch (while taking
>> care to not mar my nicely powdercoated LG07). Attempts to remove the
>> bushes are complicated by the soft nature of the bearings.
>>
>> Sooooo....I've just received 2 new bushings from mcmaster-carr (P/N
>> 6391K178) and my plan is to drill out the offending bushes and 'ave
>> another go.
>>
>> This time I'll do a trial assembly of all the parts which the pin LG04
>> passes through before indulging w/ the loctite.
>>
>> Old Pennsylvania Dutch saying: Why do I get so late smarter?
>>
>> Fred
>> A194
>>
>>
>> --
>> This message has been scanned for viruses and
>> dangerous content by MailScanner, and is
>> believed to be clean.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: mounting quick-connect bellcrank brackets into |
Hi Greg,
The brackets should be inside the outline of the cockpit module. Have a look at my efforts there, the link is http://www.europaowners.org/modules.php?set_albumName=album73&sid=a3309a4ca706651d65ddf4ee58137e4b&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
There are a few pictures that clearly show the situation. Maybe the brackets are
upside down, or port-starboard interchanged? Later, once the cockpit module
is mounted in the fuselage you will lap up the brackets to the fuselage. If wrong,
better to correct now.
Regards,
Jos Okhuijsen
Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
Attachments:
http://www.europaowners.org//zfiles/img_1737.sized_198.jpg
Message 10
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Subject: | mounting quick-connect bellcrank brackets into |
Hi! Greg
I'm very late entering this one but be sure to alternate male/female
...female/male to make the reconnect fool proof. I remember assisting
connecting William Mills once for him only to hear he flew home without
an ASI because they were crossed.
Regards
Bob H G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of josok
Sent: 30 December 2007 23:22
Subject: Re: Europa-List: mounting quick-connect bellcrank brackets into
Hi Greg,
The brackets should be inside the outline of the cockpit module. Have a
look at my efforts there, the link is
http://www.europaowners.org/modules.php?set_albumName=album73&sid=a3309a
4ca706651d65ddf4ee58137e4b&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=vi
ew_album.php
There are a few pictures that clearly show the situation. Maybe the
brackets are upside down, or port-starboard interchanged? Later, once
the cockpit module is mounted in the fuselage you will lap up the
brackets to the fuselage. If wrong, better to correct now.
Regards,
Jos Okhuijsen
Message 11
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Subject: | Europaprecision? |
Steve,
Keep us informed, if you come up with a solution. It would be intriguing to
try something else. I saw a picture somewhere of one other member that built
an aluminum tank.
Thanks for the informative pics.
Regards,
Greg.
-----snip-----
In any case I don't believe I am going to put my replacement polyethelyne
tank back in the aircraft. I am going to pursue making an aluminum
(aluminium for you other guys) tank up with AN fittings.
Check some photos of the tank and the crack attached.
Steve Hagar
A 143
Mesa AZ
Do not archive
Message 12
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Subject: | mounting quick-connect bellcrank brackets into |
Jos,
Thanks for the comment and picture link. I seem to have the orientation of
the brackets ok (the holes drilled into the bracket are in the same spot as
in your pictures), and have trial fitted the wing bellcranks to the cockpit
bellcranks by inserting the wings, and they mate very well. I hate to undo
that which mates so well, but will have to, if that's what it takes. I will
prob do a trial fit in the fuselage, and if the bracket leans inboard, I
won't have a choice, but to redo. Then give each bracket top an inboard
twist around the positioning bolt by about 3/8" (and consequently the
bracket bottom an outboard twist), and a new base of araldite.
I am going to think about it for a little while though, and am open to any
more ideas or enlightenments from anyone.
Part of the bellcrank is outside the fuselage shell as well, in the area of
the hole in the side of the fuselage. I assume this is normal, since the
dimensions are set by the hole spacing in the wing spars. Can you or someone
please confirm this?
Thanks,
Greg Fuchs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of josok
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2007 3:22 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: mounting quick-connect bellcrank brackets into
Hi Greg,
The brackets should be inside the outline of the cockpit module. Have a look
at my efforts there, the link is
http://www.europaowners.org/modules.php?set_albumName=album73&sid=a3309a4ca7
06651d65ddf4ee58137e4b&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album
.php
There are a few pictures that clearly show the situation. Maybe the brackets
are upside down, or port-starboard interchanged? Later, once the cockpit
module is mounted in the fuselage you will lap up the brackets to the
fuselage. If wrong, better to correct now.
Regards,
Jos Okhuijsen
Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
Attachments:
http://www.europaowners.org//zfiles/img_1737.sized_198.jpg
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Subject: | mounting quick-connect bellcrank brackets into |
Thanks Bob, but I am just a tiny bit confused.
Were you talking about the pitot tube connectors?
I am talking about the bellcrank support brackets being possibly slightly
outboard of the airfram.
But I will be sure to work on your experience and take that advice when I
get there, and alternate the pitot connectors. I definately don't want to
lose my ASI, either.
If you meant something else, please set me straight.
Thanks again, and Best Regards,
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert C
Harrison
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2007 4:25 PM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: mounting quick-connect bellcrank brackets into
<ptag.dev@tiscali.co.uk>
Hi! Greg
I'm very late entering this one but be sure to alternate male/female
...female/male to make the reconnect fool proof. I remember assisting
connecting William Mills once for him only to hear he flew home without
an ASI because they were crossed.
Regards
Bob H G-PTAG
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Subject: | Re: mounting quick-connect bellcrank brackets into |
Part of the bell crank is outside the fuselage shell as well, in the area of
the hole in the side of the fuselage. I assume this is normal, since the
dimensions are set by the hole spacing in the wing spars. Can you or someone
please confirm this?
-----[/quote:6192b041ef]
Yes, the bell cranks move outside, that's normal. From your reply i now understand
that the brackets are rotated - top out bottom in - Yes, you should correct
it. The inside of the brackets, after glassing in, should be about 90 degrees
to the sides. The manual also calls for the brackets to be squared up, also
that is quite important to make fitting the wings easier.
Thinking back, i see now what my problem was here. Later, when fitting the wings,
the manual calls for a check of the line up of the bell crank. One of them
was not in line anymore, while i am quite sure it was ok in the stage you are
in now. The brackets, until glassed in, are flexible enough to be pushed around,
out of square. That must have happened, not much, but just the 5 millimeters
that were missing. Please check the squareness again before glassing :-)
Regards,
Jos Okhuijsen
Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
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