Europa-List Digest Archive

Wed 10/23/13


Total Messages Posted: 23



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 12:02 AM -  (Tim Ward)
     2. 12:55 AM - Re: Cockit ventilation (gtagr)
     3. 04:53 AM - Re: MOD 78 (h&jeuropa)
     4. 05:13 AM - Coolant Radiator (goff)
     5. 06:36 AM - Re: Coolant Radiator (Philip Levi)
     6. 06:55 AM - Re: Coolant Radiator (Michael Davies)
     7. 07:04 AM - Re: Coolant Radiator (K BURNS)
     8. 07:05 AM - Invitation to connect on LinkedIn (Jim Kelly)
     9. 07:08 AM - Re: Coolant Radiator (Bob Harrison)
    10. 09:31 AM - Intercom Do you need one (David Joyce)
    11. 10:19 AM - Re: Intercom Do you need one (Paul McAllister)
    12. 11:13 AM - Re: Re: Cockit ventilation (Michel)
    13. 11:47 AM - Re: Cockit ventilation (spcialeffects)
    14. 11:49 AM - Re: Classic Centre Console (spcialeffects)
    15. 12:12 PM - Re: Intercom Do you need one (graeme bird)
    16. 12:36 PM - Re: Intercom Do you need one (pjeffers@talktalk.net)
    17. 12:49 PM - Re: Re: Cockit ventilation (Greg Fuchs)
    18. 01:32 PM - Re: aileron and flap close outs (William Daniell)
    19. 02:29 PM - Re: Re: MOD 78 (Neville Eyre)
    20. 02:57 PM - Old radio (David Joyce)
    21. 08:29 PM - Classic Manuel (spcialeffects)
    22. 10:49 PM - Re: Classic Manuel (Andrew Sarangan)
    23. 11:09 PM - Re: Classic Manuel (Fred Klein)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 12:02:59 AM PST US
    From: Tim Ward <ward.t@xtra.co.nz>
    Pete, You going to be at the Black Sands fly in 2/3 Nov? Tim For the Europa list, every year we have a Black Sands fly-in, landing on a beach near Raglan Airfield, New Zealand, at low tide, obviously. The annual Black Sands dust up. Two Europa aircraft have done it so far, Gavin Lee and Bill Sisley so hopefully a third shortly. Will report back. Tim Tim Ward 12 Waiwetu Street Fendalton, Christchurch, 8052 New Zealand. ward.t@xtra.co.nz Ph 64 3 3515166 Mob 0210640221 > On 23/10/2013, at 7:36 pm, "pestar" <peter@reivernet.com> wrote: > > > I have dual Voyagers G2's EFIS, 1 x Xtreme EFIS (endurance bus), 2 x MGL V10 radios and live in NZ. See my avatar > > I chose MGL over GRT, AFS and Dynon after visiting Oshkosh 2 years in a row. > > Why > > I can create and have created my own screens. > > The Voyagers EFIS talk to one and another. > > I am a datacommunications engineer and am comfortable in this environment. > > MGL had an integrated AP before the others which I use with PocketFMS using Trio servos (prior to the MGL servos availability). > > We have a very good NZ agent which cannot be said for Dynon, GRT or AFS. There units are good but if they break back to the USA they go. > > Apart from debugging which took sometime due to the complex nature of my panel I have had no problems. > > I have no round gauges at all, just dual MGL AHRS and dual busses. > > Sometimes people who post (referring to the one highlighted) fire off before really thinking about it. Yes I had my frustrations but in time they have all come through. > > And lastly I like the upgrade path MGL offer and have taken advantage of it previously and will do so once the G3 becomes available. > > OK I will get of my soapbox now, all will do their job very well. > > Cheers Peter > > -------- > Peter Armstrong > Auckland, New Zealand > DynAero MCR-4S (Do not shoot me :) ). > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411165#411165 > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 2


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    Time: 12:55:16 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Cockit ventilation
    From: "gtagr" <clive.maf@googlemail.com>
    Pete, Tony, Pics attached. Fully adjustable ventilation from trickle to fully hurricane and I've seen this arrangement clear windscreen 'fogging' in no time. But the price . . . Fortunately for me these were already fitted when I bought the a/c. Haven't flown much in rain but I've never had any water leakage btw. Clive Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411167#411167 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0500_201.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0499_506.jpg


    Message 3


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    Time: 04:53:04 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: MOD 78
    From: "h&amp;jeuropa" <butcher43@att.net>
    Dave, Wow - we were just feeling sorry for ourselves because we have to deal with changes needed on the fuselage. Working with the fairings & controls already on would be really difficult. Nev's tips are really helpful. One thing we did, that wasn't in the instructions, was to make a template for the location of the hole that holds the aileron quick disconnect bracket in the spar. We were worried that once the bid was on, we'd never find the right spot again [Wink] Jim & Heather Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411173#411173


    Message 4


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    Time: 05:13:03 AM PST US
    Subject: Coolant Radiator
    From: "goff" <goffmoore@aol.com>
    The coolant radiator in G-CHOX (XS Rotax 912ULS) is leaking. We need to replace it asap. Europa O4 are out of stock. Does anyone know of any other source? Goff Moore Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411177#411177 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/rad_dimensions_115.jpg


    Message 5


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    Time: 06:36:13 AM PST US
    From: Philip Levi <pjlevi@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Coolant Radiator
    Goff, Mine is a Rotax UL but I had the same problem last April and Europa factory could not help. It is actually a motor cycle radiator and my engineer contacted the original manufacturers (who had previously supplied Europa). I know they provided an excellent service very quickly, they did not replace the radiator but repaired it and gave it a full renovation job for about a third of the cost Europa would have charged for a new one. It came back looking like new and in perfect condition. I have spoken to my engineer and inspector, Gary Johnson, he recalls (from memory) it was a company in Saffron Walden, but will check out the name and contact details tonight and send them to you. He can be contacted on < thehighflyer@aol.com> . I have just searched on Google and found a firm of motor cycle repairers and restorers in Saffron Walden called Motorcycle Restoration Company (next to Audley End Station), Unit 3, Wenden Court, Station Road, Wendens Ambro, Saffron Walden, Essex, CB11 4LB, tel. 01799 542323/07734 591456, www.motorcyclerestorationcompany.com. There is also another motorcycle shop in Saffron Walden, Bert's Motorcycles, 13b Debden Road, Saffron Walden, Essex, CB11 4AA, Tel. 01799 525611. I have no idea whether it was either of them or neither, but worth a phone call. Otherwise contact Gary tonight or he will contact you. Yours sincerely, *Philip* * * *Philip J. Levi* * Europa Monowheel Classic, G-BWWB , based at Old Warden. * On 23 October 2013 13:12, goff <goffmoore@aol.com> wrote: > > The coolant radiator in G-CHOX (XS Rotax 912ULS) is leaking. We need to > replace it asap. Europa O4 are out of stock. > > Does anyone know of any other source? > > Goff Moore > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411177#411177 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/rad_dimensions_115.jpg > >


    Message 6


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    Time: 06:55:30 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Coolant Radiator
    From: Michael Davies <mike.davies210@gmail.com>
    Try Neville Eyre he may be able to help He had one made for me last year Mike G-MLXP On Oct 23, 2013 1:15 PM, "goff" <goffmoore@aol.com> wrote: > > The coolant radiator in G-CHOX (XS Rotax 912ULS) is leaking. We need to > replace it asap. Europa O4 are out of stock. > > Does anyone know of any other source? > > Goff Moore > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411177#411177 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/rad_dimensions_115.jpg > >


    Message 7


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    Time: 07:04:44 AM PST US
    From: K BURNS <kjburns@btinternet.com>
    Subject: Re: Coolant Radiator
    Try Richard at-=0Ahttp://www.eesaviation.com/- Has had radiators repair ed, and if really bad re-cored , his contact details are-=0A=0A=0A-0185 8 880807 His hanger / workshop is at Coventry Gliding club ...Hanger 3 , LE 17 6JJ,-=0A=0ARegards=0AKevin=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0A From: goff <goffmoore@aol.com>=0ATo: europa-list@matronics.com =0ASent: We dnesday, 23 October 2013, 13:12=0ASubject: Europa-List: Coolant Radiator=0A he coolant radiator in G-CHOX (XS Rotax 912ULS) is leaking. We need to repl ace it asap. Europa O4 are out of stock.=0A=0ADoes anyone know of any other source?=0A=0AGoff Moore=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online here:=0A=0Aht tp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411177#411177=0A=0A=0A=0A=0AAtt achments: =0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com//files/rad_dimensions_115.jpg ==================


    Message 8


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    Time: 07:05:35 AM PST US
    From: Jim Kelly <europajimkelly@gmail.com>
    Subject: Invitation to connect on LinkedIn
    LinkedIn ------------ I'd like to add you to my professional network on LinkedIn. - Jim Jim Kelly Consultant at BloomingBins Stoke-on-Trent, United Kingdom Confirm that you know Jim Kelly: https://www.linkedin.com/e/-my6xdk-hn4mwnyg-2d/isd/17520293222/EpFg7m6R/?hs=false&tok=2csOf_7bTJC5Y1 -- You are receiving Invitation to Connect emails. Click to unsubscribe: http://www.linkedin.com/e/-my6xdk-hn4mwnyg-2d/7QsqvhHKRG44J3nn6Q6zBKT5IZSxL7Z26dpSDOJ/goo/europa-list%40matronics%2Ecom/20061/I5798373997_1/?hs=false&tok=2x7p-RUGfJC5Y1 (c) 2012 LinkedIn Corporation. 2029 Stierlin Ct, Mountain View, CA 94043, USA.


    Message 9


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    Time: 07:08:28 AM PST US
    From: "Bob Harrison" <ptag.dev@tiscali.co.uk>
    Subject: Coolant Radiator
    Hi! Geoff ........from the dim and distant past I'm thinking Matco/Masters Auto Radiators but I can't seem to turn up anything other than that probably Neville will jump in with a conversion part number. I would have thought Europa would give you a guide Regards Bob Harrison. G-PTAG -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of goff Sent: 23 October 2013 13:13 Subject: Europa-List: Coolant Radiator The coolant radiator in G-CHOX (XS Rotax 912ULS) is leaking. We need to replace it asap. Europa O4 are out of stock. Does anyone know of any other source? Goff Moore Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411177#411177 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/rad_dimensions_115.jpg


    Message 10


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    Time: 09:31:24 AM PST US
    From: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk>
    Subject: Intercom Do you need one
    I would be grateful for some expert thoughts on the need for an intercom with a modern radio. I started off 13 yrs ago with an Icom radio and was persuaded that it was worth having an additional Flightcom intercom. I subsequently upgraded to a Garmin SL30 ( which has been fantastic) but kept the intercom. Now of course we need to be 8.33KHz compliant so I am planning on getting the Garmin equivalent of the SL30 which infuriatingly they have made about a 1/4" fatter vertically. This means I am going to have to totally redesign that side of my panel, and it occurs to me that something costing as much as the Garmin GNC255 should be able to give good quality intercom without the help of Flightcom and I could ditch the latter. Any advice gratefully received. Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ


    Message 11


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    Time: 10:19:33 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Intercom Do you need one
    From: Paul McAllister <paul.the.aviator@gmail.com>
    Hello David, I have used the internal intercom on the SL30 for several years and it works quite nicely. Is there any reason why you would not use the internal intercom in the Garmin GNC255 ? Paul


    Message 12


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    Time: 11:13:13 AM PST US
    From: Michel <mau11@free.fr>
    Subject: Re: Cockit ventilation
    I used a 2 PC old mainboard fan 4 inches, they work perfectly coast > nothing On 22/10/2013 22:56, gtagr wrote: > > Peter, I have one mounted in each side 'quarter panel' of my windshield, very effective and I only have good things to say about them . . . except the $94 each price perhaps. Let me know if a pic would be useful. Clive. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411139#411139 > >


    Message 13


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    Time: 11:47:02 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Cockit ventilation
    From: "spcialeffects" <spcialeffects@aol.com>
    I like the idea of these http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/snapvents2.php but does anyone know if you can get them in the same colour as the europa tinted glass? I think it's bronze? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411245#411245


    Message 14


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    Time: 11:49:30 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Classic Centre Console
    From: "spcialeffects" <spcialeffects@aol.com>
    Hey Carl, any luck with the photos? If you find them please email me. Thanks Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411246#411246


    Message 15


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    Time: 12:12:01 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Intercom Do you need one
    From: "graeme bird" <graeme@gdbmk.co.uk>
    I use the atr833 and it has full intercom features selectable with a switch, set the volumes and mic levels etc and feed in external audio, can't see why you would need another box. -------- Graeme Bird G-UMPY Mono Classic/XS 912S/Woodcomp 3000/3W Newby: 95 hours 18 months g(at)gdbmk.co.uk Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411250#411250


    Message 16


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    Time: 12:36:47 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Intercom Do you need one
    From: pjeffers@talktalk.net
    =0AOne big advantage of using a separate intercom was the VO X arrangement which gives absolute silence in your ears except when transmitting or receiving. Only in my experience have I noted that built in intercoms tend to give a background hiss all the time which I find annoying.=0AWho knows? the new radios may be better but I would need to be convinced before throwing my old Sigtronics away.=0APete=0A=0A=0A-----Original Message-----=0AFrom: Paul McAllister <paul.the.aviator@gmail.com>=0ATo: europa-list@matronics.com <europa-list@matronics.com>=0ASent: Wed, 23 Oc t 2013 18:29=0ASubject: Re: Europa-List: Intercom Do you need one=0A=0A=0AHello David,=0A=0A=0AI have used the internal intercom on the SL30 for several years and it works quite nicely.=0A=0A =0AIs there any reason why you would not use the internal =========================== =========================== ====-= - The Europa-List Email Forum --= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to br owse-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription ,-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,- = Photoshare, and much much more:-=-= -- http:// www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List-=-========== =========================== =======================-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS --= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!-=- = -- http://forums.matronics.com-=-========= =========================== ========================-= - List Contribution Web Site -- = Thank you for your generous support!-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.-= -- http://www.matronics.com/contributio n-========================= =========================== =========0A=0A


    Message 17


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    Time: 12:49:22 PM PST US
    From: "Greg Fuchs " <gregoryf.flyboy@comcast.net>
    Subject: Re: Cockit ventilation
    I don't know anything about the color, but The instructions say: 'not intended for speeds above 120 knots'. -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of spcialeffects Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 11:47 AM Subject: Europa-List: Re: Cockit ventilation --> <spcialeffects@aol.com> I like the idea of these http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/snapvents2.php but does anyone know if you can get them in the same colour as the europa tinted glass? I think it's bronze? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411245#411245


    Message 18


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    Time: 01:32:21 PM PST US
    From: "William Daniell" <wdaniell.longport@gmail.com>
    Subject: aileron and flap close outs
    Thats what I=99ll do then! Thanks everyone Will From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Harrison Sent: Monday, October 21, 2013 17:23 Subject: RE: Europa-List: aileron and flap close outs Hi! Will. I actually included a tapered guide tube to receive the flap drive shaft so it engages on the drive pin when doing self assembly rigging And I recall that I included some backing foam within the construction and arranged for the close out to fit close to the fuselage but it needs fairing into match the wing to fuselage radius when the flaps are in retracted position. There is photo on the site which John Cliff runs.:- http://www.users.waitrose.com/~jcliff/BobH/FlapCov/Flapcovs.htm Regards Bob Harrison G-PTAG


    Message 19


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    Time: 02:29:58 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: MOD 78
    From: Neville Eyre <neveyre@aol.com>
    Hi Dave, To do the job properly, you are going to have to take out the aileron and a irbrake pushrods anyway, so not much more of a job to grind / sweat off the tufnol block at the same time. Take measurements as to where the block is so you can replace it in exactly the same position. Best to keep to what ha s been tested / proven ? Make up some sort of jig so you can find the hole for the aileron belcrank pivot after the tang has been covered with the carbon wrap [ you will need a longer bolt after the wrap ?] The Instructions imply the carbon cloth goes into and ends in the corner, I didn't like all that extra stiffness stopping in one place, so I took the 4 side plies [ front and rear face] around the corner, onto the root rib, s tepping them off at 2'', 1.5'', 1'', .5'', and finished the 4 wraps in the corner. Here's the tip regarding laying up the carbon cloth.... carbon is black and shiny when it is dry, and black and shiny when it is wet, so how does the laminator know if he [ or she] has got it all wet ? Weighing out the cloth and using the same amount of resin is one way, but t here may [ will] be areas that will end up too dry, especially if wetting i t uphill from underneath....... where a fair amount of resin will go up you r arm ! Get some medium weight clear polythene sheet. Wash / wipe any release film contaminates off with paper towel and acetone. Make a card template for the side plies, and the wrap plies to use to draw round. Draw on the finished shape of each lay up onto the poly' with a ball pen, do this for every individual ply, and cut them out with a couple of inches to spare all around. Cut out the same number of blank pieces the same size . Turn the poly' over onto a poly' covered bench so the pen ink is on the und erside, place the precut [ slightly oversize] carbon cloth on top of the p oly', so it overhangs the pen line, and pull the fibres about to get it all square and even. [the carbon is far looser in weave, it goes out of shape easier, but not as soft to go round corners.] Wet the carbon cloth initially with a brush, dibbing rather than brushing s o as not to disturbthe weave, when it is wet and stuck to the poly', give i t a gentle go over with a foam roller. Cover that with one of the plain she ets of poly', and squeegee through the poly' so it goes clear and you can s ee no dry weave areas thru it. Flip the poly' cloth sandwhich over and sque egee it on the other side until there are no visible dry weave areas, you c an chase the exess resin about to wet out any dry areas. Once it looks all wet, squeegee quite hard to wipe out the exess out of the sandwhich, and sc oop up that resin off the bench back into your pot. Flip the sandwhich back over, and cut through all of it with SHARP scissors , to the pen line which will just about be visable in good light. Bin the o ffcut, you now have a poor mans prepreg ! Peel off the poly from the side y ou want to stick it on, and you can carry it onto the job, it won't stretch / sag / and can be placed and removed until you are happy with the positio n. Squeegee it through the poly and chase out any air. Peel off the poly', and then roll over the carbon with a roller made from p lain and spring washers, to get all the air out and really mash the cloth o nto the surface. Wipe off the poly' covered bench to remove all resin, and start again. You will need to put on new gloves for each ply, as you won't be able to smooth / stretch the cloth about with sticky gloves. Reckon on using a couple of gallons of acetone, 2 or three paper towel rolls and 200 gloves for all of this, with all the poly' off cuts and sheets you will fill 3 dustbin liners ! Do a trial poly' prepreg before the real deal, to get the hang of doing it, really makes it easy compared with trying to juggle with the cloth and wet ting on the job. Ensure there are no creases / wrinkles in the poly, tailor the ink lines to miss any. Good luck, Nev ----Original Message----- From: djaflyact <djaflyact@gmail.com> Sent: Wed, Oct 23, 2013 1:47 am Subject: Europa-List: Re: MOD 78 Thanks Nev. I have ground one spar tang today. Had to quit due to roasting in the sun and just the mess of it. I'm wondering if anyone has done this mod on a flying airplane. The reason I ask is that the speed brake control tufnol bl ock is right there where the fiberglass is layed up against the root rib. To gr ind those payers off the root rib, I would ahve to remove the controls for the speed brakes and also the ailerons. What I was hoping to do is leave the fibergla ss on the spar out about 2 to 3 inches and then add the new layers as called for in the build manual, but only run them up the root rib where possible. Otherwi se, the new plies would essentially splice onto the existing pile on the root r ib. Where I can run them up the root rib, it would be thicker than called for i n the manual. There is also the issue of the glass that is holding on the wing ro ot fairing, which is why I'm asking about not taking off the layers that are n ow on the root rib. I'm still getting lost in the terminology - roves - tows, etc. Is there a s ource on the internet that defines what these terms mean? I'm attaching a photo of it now, with the intensifier board on top for scal e. Oh - How far does the carbon fibre cloth go toward the rot rib? ALl the way to the 90 degree corner? Off to shower off the dust - you are right - it goes everywhere. I am weari ng a space suit and I still get it on me. Dave PS On one spar, There was a spot of somthing that looks almost like sap in a spot when I was grinding the shear web layers - toward the wing root. Like a pocket of sap or a pocket of something that was not cured. This is about a 12 year old spar. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411138#411138 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/grinding_done_196.jpg


    Message 20


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    Time: 02:57:12 PM PST US
    From: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk>
    Subject: Old radio
    Does anyone by any chance have a small radio that they have been forced to replace by an 8.33KHz version, that they would be prepared to part with to a good cause, namely the Stroud Schools Build a Plane Project? Someone did very kindly donate an old Icom portable, but with the plane now flying there have been issues about getting any workable tie up to an intercom. They could have my SL30 but there isn't sufficient panel room! Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ


    Message 21


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    Time: 08:29:42 PM PST US
    Subject: Classic Manuel
    From: "spcialeffects" <spcialeffects@aol.com>
    I am just about to bond the 1/2" bushes to the cockpit module along with the spar end caps but have a question. The original method was to set the cockpit module upside down and then rig everything but now they get you to stand it up on end to rig it all why? Also I would prefer to rig it all the 1st way because I can support the wings much safer and better this way, so could someone please send me the original pages of the Manuel to refer to. Thanks Frank Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411280#411280


    Message 22


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    Time: 10:49:48 PM PST US
    From: Andrew Sarangan <asarangan@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Classic Manuel
    I can't see why setting the wings upside down will be easier, but it might have been different with the classic wings. I think the vertical setup will take less floor space, as you can stick the wing tips out through a small door or even window. With the module set vertical, it is very stable because the front firewall tunnel is sturdy and flat. I built a wing dolly to clamp the wings in the vertical position and roll it around into position. If you are interested, you can see my setup at this site: http://www.sarangan.org/aviation/europa/index.html On Wed, Oct 23, 2013 at 11:28 PM, spcialeffects <spcialeffects@aol.com> wrote: > > I am just about to bond the 1/2" bushes to the cockpit module along with the spar end caps but have a question. The original method was to set the cockpit module upside down and then rig everything but now they get you to stand it up on end to rig it all why? Also I would prefer to rig it all the 1st way because I can support the wings much safer and better this way, so could someone please send me the original pages of the Manuel to refer to. Thanks Frank > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411280#411280 > >


    Message 23


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    Time: 11:09:00 PM PST US
    From: Fred Klein <fklein@orcasonline.com>
    Subject: Re: Classic Manuel
    On Oct 23, 2013, at 10:48 PM, Andrew Sarangan wrote: > If you are interested, you can see my > setup at this site: > > http://www.sarangan.org/aviation/europa/index.html Andrew...great site... Is there a way to scroll thru your photos?...or must one click back to the small images every time in order to move forward? Fred




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