Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:31 AM - Re:Warning well said just in time (Cliff Olson)
2. 05:36 AM - Re: Model 5 Rudder (Donna and Roger McConnell)
3. 07:53 AM - Re: West Epoxy System Warning (Lynn Matteson)
4. 07:54 AM - Re: Aluminum cowl? (Michel Verheughe)
5. 07:58 AM - HACman (Guy Buchanan)
6. 08:06 AM - Re: Model 5 Rudder (Jim's Shaw Mail)
7. 08:10 AM - Re: Aluminum cowl? (roncarolnikko@webtv.net (Ron Schick))
8. 09:00 AM - Re: Insurance Trivia (Randy Daughenbaugh)
9. 09:06 AM - Dekester Progress (Don Pearsall)
10. 09:39 AM - Re: HACman (Torgeir Mortensen)
11. 09:40 AM - Warning (hausding, sid)
12. 10:16 AM - Fuel venting and facet pump (Flybradair@cs.com)
13. 10:16 AM - Flaperon film removal (Joel Mapes)
14. 10:18 AM - Re: Insurance Trivia (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
15. 10:27 AM - Re: Flaperon film removal (Don Pearsall)
16. 10:34 AM - Re: Fuel venting and facet pump (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
17. 10:38 AM - Re: Flaperon film removal (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
18. 10:56 AM - Re: Flaperon film removal (Brett Walmsley)
19. 12:00 PM - [ Joel Mapes ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares)
20. 12:17 PM - Re: Fuel venting and facet pump (Flybradair@cs.com)
21. 12:34 PM - Re: [ Joel Mapes ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Dee Young)
22. 02:16 PM - Re: Model 5 Rudder (Cudnohufsky's)
23. 03:02 PM - Mounting Ring (Donna and Roger McConnell)
24. 04:12 PM - Re: Fuel venting and facet pump (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
25. 05:43 PM - Re: Flaperon film removal (Lynn Matteson)
26. 05:49 PM - Re: [ Joel Mapes ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Lynn Matteson)
27. 06:29 PM - Re: [ Joel Mapes ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Lynn Matteson)
28. 06:52 PM - Re: NSI CAP Model 140 AD #030605-01 (Daniel Aller)
29. 08:13 PM - Re: Mounting Ring (John King)
30. 09:01 PM - Changing out stock fuel fills (Rick)
31. 09:48 PM - [ Lynn Matteson ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares)
32. 11:30 PM - Re: HACman (Guy Buchanan)
33. 11:31 PM - Metal plaque (Harry Tucker)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re:Warning well said just in time |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Cliff Olson" <colsonj@provide.net>
The info exchanged on this list is great.I was not aware the fumes,dust and contact
with resins were so dangerous.Just over the last two weeks I've completely
dissasembled my model IV and soon will be using thinners,solvents,epoxy,paint,and
some fiberglass work.I have been carefull in the past restoring other planes,cars
and so on but you can be sure I'll make changes this time.To Don Smythe
I hope you have a speedy recovery.Thanks Cliff Olson don't archive
Message 2
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Donna and Roger McConnell" <rdmac@swbell.net>
Lloyd,
The fiberglass rear fairing should fit up against the rear vertical
all the way down. The reason for the varying length of the hinge posts is to
allow for the tapered front edge of the rudder. It is small at the top and
larger at the bottom. I'm building a Model 7 but I think the VS and rudder
are close to the same. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Roger Mac
S7/(with engine)912s
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Cudnohufsky's
Subject: Kitfox-List: Model 5 Rudder
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Cudnohufsky's" <7suds@chartermi.net>
List,
Help please,
I am working on rebuilding a Model 5 - 1550 gross Kitfox, I removed all
covering and replaced some damaged tubing in the rear and am now replacing
the vertical stab formers and fiberglass vertical rudder fairing, my
question is this, should the fiberglass fairing at the rear of the vertical
lay tight against the rear post of the vertical all the way down or close at
the top and farther away as it goes down? The 3 hinge posts each protrude
farther out as you go down the fin. I have a new construction manual from
skystar but it does not say specifically what the orientation of the
fiberglass fairing should be in reference to the rear stab post. If it is
supposed to taper away does anyone know why?
Thanks Lloyd
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Cooper" <spdrflyr@earthlink.net>
Subject: Kitfox-List: UMA Tachoometers?
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Steve Cooper" <spdrflyr@earthlink.net>
>
> I've read recently that the UMA Tachometer is a pretty good instrument.
> Does
> anyone have any experience with these?
>
> Steve
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: West Epoxy System Warning |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
Thanks, Sterling...I thought it meant something like that.
Speaking of chemical gloves, I got the Invisible Gloves when I bought
some Stits Lite to cover a large RC plane, and use it whenever I'm
using the Polyfiber system chemicals. It helps peel off the Polytak
when you get that stuff on your hands, and the videotape that addresses
the modeling use of PF, states that "you can almost wash your hands in
MEK" when using the Invisible Gloves. Of course, I wouldn't want to try
that too often, and they probably wouldn't back up that claim either.
I used to wear a beard, and gave up on that years ago when I started to
use these chemicals, as the mask didn't fit well enough around the
hair, and I could smell the chemicals. With the mask, I cannot smell
anything until I take it off, and then I know it's time to leave the
shop until the exhaust fan does it's thing.
I use to hate putting the mask on, but finally got used to it, and
often nowadays I'll find myself doing something well beyond the use of
the chemicals, and I've still got the thing on.
Lynn
On Friday, March 18, 2005, at 10:40 PM, Sterling wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Sterling" <sterling@pgrb.com>
>
> Sorry... Personal Protective Equipment.
>
> I bought a set of chemical gloves and use them everytime I work around
> MEK,
> Acetone, Naptha and the other stuff that we typically use. I got my
> gloves
> from an Army Surplus Store and they are double lined. I have to admit
> I'm
> bad at using the respirator. I wear glasses and the respirator doesn't
> seal
> off too well with the glasses, but I make certain I have a fan on
> blowing
> fresh air my way.
>
> Sterling Brooks
> (former Avid builder and producer of the Avid Marketing Videotapes)
> Knot-2-Shabby Airport & Texas Longhorn Cattle Ranch
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lynn Matteson" <lynnmatt@jps.net>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: West Epoxy System Warning
>
>
>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
>>
>> What is PPE? I'm guessing a personal respirator of some sort?
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Aluminum cowl? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
kurt schrader wrote:
> Have fun. Alumimun is neat to work with after a bit.
> About as easy as wood, just different.
Thank you for your answers, Kurt and Lynn.
Lynn, we don't have EAA workshop in Norway. We are are tiny little country and
we are pleased we are allowed to fly homebuilt plane at all. But asking about
an English wheel is a good idea.
Kurt, a rubber hammer is a good idea. Before I do anything, I'll try on small
samples, of course. As Lynn says, the Sonex dealer may know of good tools.
All, today I went I had the great pleasure to be with wife #1 and wife #2.
Read: I went flying with my wife. The weather was excellent and we went flying
above our house and our friend's house. Only 30 minutes flight but a delight:
Flying the plane you love with the woman you love.
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 5
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
All,
Is anyone using Green Sky's HACman manual Bing mixture control? If
so, what is your experience? Do you recommend it?
Thanks,
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99% done, thanks to Bob Ducar.
Do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Model 5 Rudder |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jim's Shaw Mail" <jcorner@shaw.ca>
Lloyd
The fin fiberglass fairing is butted against the vertical post all the
way down. If you need any photos of this area I have a 5 fuselage in
the garage that is yet uncovered.
Jim
On Mar 18, 2005, at 8:33 PM, Cudnohufsky's wrote:
> Help please,
> I am working on rebuilding a Model 5 - 1550 gross Kitfox, I removed all
> covering and replaced some damaged tubing in the rear and am now
> replacing
> the vertical stab formers and fiberglass vertical rudder fairing, my
> question is this, should the fiberglass fairing at the rear of the
> vertical
> lay tight against the rear post of the vertical all the way down or
> close at
> the top and farther away as it goes down? The 3 hinge posts each
> protrude
> farther out as you go down the fin. I have a new construction manual
> from
> skystar but it does not say specifically what the orientation of the
> fiberglass fairing should be in reference to the rear stab post. If it
> is
> supposed to taper away does anyone know why?
> Thanks Lloyd
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Aluminum cowl? |
2005 16:54:57 +0100
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: roncarolnikko@webtv.net (Ron Schick)
Michel I to have many girls. I plan on nose art that says "THE OTHER
GIRL". Always out in the garage, always thinking about her, and spending
all my money on her. Sigh... Ron
Message 8
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| Subject: | Insurance Trivia |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com>
Don,
Did you mean $20 thousand hull?
How are you feeling?
Randy
.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
AlbertaIV@aol.com
Subject: Kitfox-List: Insurance Trivia
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
Just got back my annual Insurance quote from Falcon. With $20 hull and all
the other stuff, the rate was as follows:
$1127 (acting as Private Pilot)
$1145 (acting as Sport Pilot)
Don't know how they managed to come up with this slight difference. I'm
taking the Sport Pilot policy. If I decide to get a medical, I will still
be
fully insured either way.
Don Smythe
Message 9
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| Subject: | Dekester Progress |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall" <donpearsall@comcast.net>
As many know, Darryl (Deke) Morisse is ferrying his newly purchased
hurricane damaged Series 5 from Florida to his home in Michigan.
I got a voice message from him this morning that said he is now in Ohio,
staying at list member Fred Shiple's home. I think Fred is in or near
Toledo, Ohio. Deke was worried that there was a weather front moving through
the area that might put 8-10" of snow on the ground in Michigan, and that
might be a problem for his final leg.
He said he may end up leaving the plane and driving home.
I will let you know if I hear something else, but maybe Deke is monitoring
the list from Fred's home, too.
"Time to spare, go by air"
Don Pearsall
Message 10
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Torgeir Mortensen <torgemor@online.no>
Hi Guy,
I've made my own manual "HAC" system -about three years ago. It is working
the same way as the original "HAC" (high altitude compensation) system,
that Bing "had" made in the early 90.
The only different is that the "aneroid bellows" (the altitude chamber) is
replaced with a manual adjustable "high precision" needle valve, in fact,
I'm using same type of valve as used in the old "pitot static testers".
I've never seen the original HAC system, but saw the article made by MR.
Stratman, in California Power System CPS's catalogue.
About a year ago, I saw this "same system" offered from Green Sky.
I've often wondered why it took so long -to use this "Bing" principle as a
manual mixture system.
This is the manual mixture system made for two-stroke "Rotax" engines, at
last those using a Bing 54 carburetor and it is working very well.
I've made a drawing for my system witch can be seen here:
http://www.sportflight.com/cgi-bin/uploader.pl?action=view&epoch=1099272168
You'll save some 10 percent (or better) fuel consumption by using this
system.
As this system use some bigger needle and valves in the carb., than the
standards (in fact I'm using the same needles as per HAC setup), You'll
have a better adjustment span - in other word all different "season
settings" is handled by this modification.
So, You'll never find any better "economical" device for your aircraft.
However, don't install this device before your engine is passed the break
in, -and you're familiar with the original -setup/handling. My best
advice.
Torgeir.
On Sat, 19 Mar 2005 07:38:20 -0800, Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com> wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
>
> All,
> Is anyone using Green Sky's HACman manual Bing mixture control?
> If
> so, what is your experience? Do you recommend it?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Guy Buchanan
> K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99% done, thanks to Bob Ducar.
>
> Do not archive
>
>
--
Using M2, Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/m2/
Message 11
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "hausding, sid" <sidh@charter.net>
Good Ideas Don, being outside (if possible), having some fresh air source,
and maybe staying upwind while a fan blows the residue and fumes away......
.
Sid
--------------------------
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 3/18/2005 8:42:17 AM Eastern Standard Time,
sidh@charter.net writes:
I have years of working with the West System(s), and other toxic chemicals
in the composite build and repair fields (marine and aviation) and so far
have not seen or experienced your unusual and serious reaction.
Allergic reaction to the extreme?
Sid,
I've used it all my life too but not to a large degree. When this
thing
first hit me (about half way through the Kitfox build) I was on the phone
with the West people. Basically, you can use this stuff all your life and
then
overnight, you can become "sensitized" (their quote). Once this happens,
you will forever get the reaction (their quote). Also, the reaction will
worsen at each attack (their quote). I say "quote", but it's been several
years
and this is about what they said. Every thing they told me has come true
right down to the worsen part.
On my last trip to the Doctor, he said that the skin reaction was more
of a pain and suffering thing but not too much to worry about. However,
sanding epoxy dust could be a killer. In other words, he was more
concerned about
the sanding portion than the mixing of the chemicals.
Oh, we were in the back yard completely outside and I kept an arms
length away from the mixed material.
Don Smythe
Do Not Archive
Message 12
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| Subject: | Fuel venting and facet pump |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Flybradair@cs.com
A couple of quick questions I hope you guys can help with.
Put in fuel for first time today--noticed that some fuel runs back up the
vent line and into the tank. Is this is normal and the way the system is
supposed to operate? Seems to me the line wouldn't be venting if it was full of
fuel--but I really don't know.
The facet fuel pump works properly but it sure is noisy--is this normal? It
almost sounds like someone's banging on it.
No leaks in the system--still waiting on a spinner before first start.
Thanks!
Brad Martin
Wichita
N232WB
5 LYC-o235l2c
Trying to finish.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Flaperon film removal |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Joel Mapes" <FoxFloatFlyer@hotmail.com>
Hi All,
I'm ready to attach the mass balance weights on my flaperons and tried to remove
the film by placing paint thinner soaked rags on them for 24 hours. Trying to
scrape the film afterwards was not very successful. Please refer to the photo
"StubornFilm.jpg" I just posted to the photo share. What am I missing? There
has to be a better way to get this film (originally applied in '94) off these
flaperons.
Thanks,
Joel
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Insurance Trivia |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 3/19/2005 12:00:58 PM Eastern Standard Time,
rjdaugh@rapidnet.com writes:
Don,
Did you mean $20 thousand hull?
How are you feeling?
Randy
Yes,
Better
Don Smythe
Do Not Archive
Message 15
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| Subject: | Flaperon film removal |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall" <donpearsall@comcast.net>
Joel, the best method is to warm the film with a heat gun and gently peel it
off.
BUT, be careful. You could easily get the surface too hot and blister the
paint, or melt the foam on the inside of the flaperon. It may be a two
person job, with one warming the film, and the other doing the peeling.
Don Pearsall
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Joel Mapes
Subject: Kitfox-List: Flaperon film removal
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Joel Mapes" <FoxFloatFlyer@hotmail.com>
Hi All,
I'm ready to attach the mass balance weights on my flaperons and tried to
remove the film by placing paint thinner soaked rags on them for 24 hours.
Trying to scrape the film afterwards was not very successful. Please refer
to the photo "StubornFilm.jpg" I just posted to the photo share. What am I
missing? There has to be a better way to get this film (originally applied
in '94) off these flaperons.
Thanks,
Joel
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel venting and facet pump |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 3/19/2005 1:17:19 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Flybradair@cs.com writes:
Put in fuel for first time today--noticed that some fuel runs back up the
vent line and into the tank. Is this is normal and the way the system is
supposed to operate? Seems to me the line wouldn't be venting if it was
full of
fuel--but I really don't know.
Brad,
Think about the old saying, "water seeks it's own level".. If you fill
the wing tanks full, fuel will flow down the supply line, into the header
(until full) then, up the vent line back to the wing tank. Hence, "fuel seeks
it's own level". Yes, it's not only normal that fuel will be in the vent line
but, it better be or you have a serious problem somewhere. The fact is,
the only time you need that vent line is to get the "initial" air out of the
header. Without the vent line, the header would eventually vent out through
the supply line but would take considerably longer. I "think" some of the
early Avids had a short valve controlled vent on the header top (was not plumbed
back to the wing tank). It was turned on to make sure there was no air in
the header then turned off.
Don Smythe
Classic IV w/ 582
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Flaperon film removal |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 3/19/2005 1:28:29 PM Eastern Standard Time,
donpearsall@comcast.net writes:
Joel, the best method is to warm the film with a heat gun and gently peel it
off.
This might lead to a good builders tip. If you have flapperons sitting on
the shelf, go out and remove the film NOW. Don't wait until you need them.
The longer that stuff remains on the flapperons, the harder it is to get off.
Don Smythe
Classic IV w/ 582
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Flaperon film removal |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Brett Walmsley" <kitfox4@numail.org>
Patience and a hair dryer.
I talked my 11 year old daughter into doing for me. :-)
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Joel Mapes"
> <FoxFloatFlyer@hotmail.com>
>
> Hi All,
>
> I'm ready to attach the mass balance weights on my flaperons and tried to
> remove the film by placing paint thinner soaked rags on them for 24 hours.
> Trying to scrape the film afterwards was not very successful. Please refer
> to the photo "StubornFilm.jpg" I just posted to the photo share. What am I
> missing? There has to be a better way to get this film (originally applied
> in '94) off these flaperons.
> Thanks,
> Joel
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | [ Joel Mapes ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Joel Mapes <FoxFloatFlyer@hotmail.com>
Subject: Flaperon film removal
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/FoxFloatFlyer@hotmail.com.03.19.2005/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures@matronics.com
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel venting and facet pump |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Flybradair@cs.com
Thanks Don,
After shaking the plane around and messing with the fuel system all day it
looks like it is doing what it is supposed to do. About time to finally crank
this thing up!
Brad
In a message dated 3/19/05 12:35:29 PM Central Standard Time,
AlbertaIV@aol.com writes:
> Subj: Re: Kitfox-List: Fuel venting and facet pump
> Date:3/19/05 12:35:29 PM Central Standard Time
> From:AlbertaIV@aol.com
> Reply-to:kitfox-list@matronics.com
> To:kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Received from Internet:
>
>
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 3/19/2005 1:17:19 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> Flybradair@cs.com writes:
>
>
> Put in fuel for first time today--noticed that some fuel runs back up the
> vent line and into the tank. Is this is normal and the way the system is
> supposed to operate? Seems to me the line wouldn't be venting if it was
> full of
> fuel--but I really don't know.
>
>
> Brad,
> Think about the old saying, "water seeks it's own level".. If you fill
>
> the wing tanks full, fuel will flow down the supply line, into the header
> (until full) then, up the vent line back to the wing tank. Hence, "fuel
> seeks
> it's own level". Yes, it's not only normal that fuel will be in the vent
> line
> but, it better be or you have a serious problem somewhere. The fact is,
> the only time you need that vent line is to get the "initial" air out of
> the
> header. Without the vent line, the header would eventually vent out
> through
> the supply line but would take considerably longer. I "think" some of the
> early Avids had a short valve controlled vent on the header top (was not
> plumbed
> back to the wing tank). It was turned on to make sure there was no air in
> the header then turned off.
>
> Don Smythe
> Classic IV w/ 582
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: [ Joel Mapes ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
Seal-Send-Time: Sat, 19 Mar 2005 13:33:55 -0700
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dee Young" <henrysfork1@msn.com>
That looks more like paint than clear film.
Dee
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Email List Photo Shares<mailto:pictures@matronics.com>
To: Email List Photo Shares<mailto:pictures@matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 19, 2005 12:59 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: [ Joel Mapes ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com<mailto:pictures@matronics.com>>
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Joel Mapes <FoxFloatFlyer@hotmail.com<mailto:FoxFloatFlyer@hotmail.com>>
Subject: Flaperon film removal
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/FoxFloatFlyer@hotmail.com.03.19.2005/index.html<http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/FoxFloatFlyer@hotmail.com.03.19.2005/index.html>
o Main Photo Share Index
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o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
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Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Model 5 Rudder |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Cudnohufsky's" <7suds@chartermi.net>
Donna & Roger and Jim,
Thanks for the replies, I was hoping that a tight fit all the way down would
be the answer, more support that way, the previous builder had it about a
1/2" away at the bottom and flush at top, not sure why. Jim, pics would be
great, you could send them to me at 7Suds@Chartermi.net
Thanks,
Lloyd
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim's Shaw Mail" <jcorner@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Model 5 Rudder
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jim's Shaw Mail" <jcorner@shaw.ca>
>
> Lloyd
>
> The fin fiberglass fairing is butted against the vertical post all the
> way down. If you need any photos of this area I have a 5 fuselage in
> the garage that is yet uncovered.
>
> Jim
>
>
> On Mar 18, 2005, at 8:33 PM, Cudnohufsky's wrote:
>
>> Help please,
>> I am working on rebuilding a Model 5 - 1550 gross Kitfox, I removed all
>> covering and replaced some damaged tubing in the rear and am now
>> replacing
>> the vertical stab formers and fiberglass vertical rudder fairing, my
>> question is this, should the fiberglass fairing at the rear of the
>> vertical
>> lay tight against the rear post of the vertical all the way down or
>> close at
>> the top and farther away as it goes down? The 3 hinge posts each
>> protrude
>> farther out as you go down the fin. I have a new construction manual
>> from
>> skystar but it does not say specifically what the orientation of the
>> fiberglass fairing should be in reference to the rear stab post. If it
>> is
>> supposed to taper away does anyone know why?
>> Thanks Lloyd
>
>
>
Message 23
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Donna and Roger McConnell" <rdmac@swbell.net>
I need some advice from members that have installed the Rotax 912s on there
Model 5, 6 or 7. Currently I am installing the Mount Ring on the back of a
912s and before I could get the mount on I had to remove the water pump
cover because the four aluminum tubes running to it were in the way. After I
got the Ring Mount on and was reinstalling the water pump cover the two
tubes on the left side of the cover were in the way of the supports on the
Ring Mount. These aluminum tubes have rubber hoses attached to them coming
from each cylinder head. My question is can these tubes be bent slightly to
one side in order to reattach the rubber hoses? Something is going to have
to be moved or modified in order to get this Ring Mount to work. Has anyone
on the List run into this kind of problem?
Roger Mac
S7/912s
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fuel venting and facet pump |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 3/19/2005 3:18:28 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Flybradair@cs.com writes:
Thanks Don,
After shaking the plane around and messing with the fuel system all day it
looks like it is doing what it is supposed to do. About time to finally
crank
this thing up!
Brad
Brad,
Make sure all fuel lines are running down hill to the header as soon as
possible from the tank. I found a good practice is to cut the fuel lines
while the wing is folded back and make them as short as possible (maybe even a
little tight around the corner). That way, they pretty much come down quickly
when the wing is in the flying position.
If you do a gravity fuel flow check, disconnect the fuel line where it
goes into the fuel pump and drain the fuel into a bucket at the same height.
Running a line down to the hanger floor will give you a false fuel flow.
Good Luck
Don Smythe
Classic IV w/ 582
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: Flaperon film removal |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
I had the same problem, and thanks to a suggestion from this list, was
able to soften the film's grip using just what you are doing...paint
thinner/mineral spirits-soaked paper towels, re-soaked every couple of
hours, and I mean REALLY soaked. But I kept it away from the hinge
slots. After about 6-8 hours, the film almost fell off...and mine were
vintage '94 as well. I wrapped the towels around the flap, soaked them
and put an automotive drip pan underneath to catch the drippings. Flip
the flaps from side to side occasionally to distribute the soaking. I
did about 3-4 feet at a time.
Lynn
On Saturday, March 19, 2005, at 01:15 PM, Joel Mapes wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Joel Mapes"
> <FoxFloatFlyer@hotmail.com>
>
> Hi All,
>
> I'm ready to attach the mass balance weights on my flaperons and tried
> to remove the film by placing paint thinner soaked rags on them for 24
> hours. Trying to scrape the film afterwards was not very successful.
> Please refer to the photo "StubornFilm.jpg" I just posted to the photo
> share. What am I missing? There has to be a better way to get this
> film (originally applied in '94) off these flaperons.
> Thanks,
> Joel
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: [ Joel Mapes ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
I just posted a picture for what it's worth, of my cleaned flaps, and
my film was white on the outside and gray on the contact surface. (My
first picture-posting attempt, so we'll see if it works)
Lynn
On Saturday, March 19, 2005, at 03:33 PM, Dee Young wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dee Young" <henrysfork1@msn.com>
>
> That looks more like paint than clear film.
>
> Dee
>
> Do Not Archive
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Email List Photo Shares<mailto:pictures@matronics.com>
> To: Email List Photo Shares<mailto:pictures@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, March 19, 2005 12:59 PM
> Subject: Kitfox-List: [ Joel Mapes ] : New Email List Photo Share
> Available!
>
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares
> <pictures@matronics.com<mailto:pictures@matronics.com>>
>
>
> A new Email List Photo Share is available:
>
> Poster: Joel Mapes
> <FoxFloatFlyer@hotmail.com<mailto:FoxFloatFlyer@hotmail.com>>
>
>
> Subject: Flaperon film removal
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/
> FoxFloatFlyer@hotmail.com.03.19.2005/index.html<http://
> www.matronics.com/photoshare/FoxFloatFlyer@hotmail.com.03.19.2005/
> index.html>
>
>
> o Main Photo Share Index
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare<http://www.matronics.com/
> photoshare>
>
> o Submitting a Photo Share
>
> If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please
> include the
> following information along with your email message and
> files:
>
> 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
> 2) Your Full Name:
> 3) Your Email Address:
> 4) One line Subject description:
> 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
> 6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
>
> Email the information above and your files and photos to:
>
> pictures@matronics.com<mailto:pictures@matronics.com>
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: [ Joel Mapes ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
Oops! I didn't see all the info regarding posting pictures, so mine
probably won't show up..no big loss.
Lynn
do not archive
On Saturday, March 19, 2005, at 08:50 PM, Lynn Matteson wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
>
> I just posted a picture for what it's worth, of my cleaned flaps, and
> my film was white on the outside and gray on the contact surface. (My
> first picture-posting attempt, so we'll see if it works)
>
> Lynn
> On Saturday, March 19, 2005, at 03:33 PM, Dee Young wrote:
>
>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dee Young" <henrysfork1@msn.com>
>>
>> That looks more like paint than clear film.
>>
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: NSI CAP Model 140 AD #030605-01 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Daniel Aller" <daller1@zoominternet.net>
Lance Wheeler,
Thanks for getting my prop blades back to me so soon.
Would you please tell me how to do this?
Propeller Operating Limits:
All propellers should be balanced on the aircraft within the first 10 hours
of service.
Dan Aller
----- Original Message -----
From: "NSI AERO" <info@nsiaero.com>
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: NSI CAP Model 140 AD #030605-01
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "NSI AERO" <info@nsiaero.com>
>
> A copy of this document is avaialble in Adobe PDF format. Please contact
> NSI by e-mail for a copy.
>
>
> NSI Airworthiness Directive
> AD Number:
> 030605-01
>
> Date Issued:
> March 6, 2005
>
> Author:
> J. Lance Wheeler, Director of Product Development, NSI, LLC
>
> Manufacturer Product Effected:
> NSI CAP Propeller (In-flight Adjustable Propeller)
> Warp Drive VRS Propeller (In-flight Adjustable Propeller)
>
> Models Affected:
> NSI Model 140
> Warp Drive Model VRS 140
>
> Approved Engines:
> Rotax 912UL, 912S, 914 Turbo
> NSI EA81 (All models), EA81 Turbo (All models)
> Solar T65 Turbo-prop (100 & 150 HP versions)
> Garrett 150 Turbo-prop (150 HP version)
> Jabaru 3300 (Now in field evaluation)
>
> Engines Affected By This AD:
> Rotax 912, 912S, 914 Turbo
>
> Propeller Production Dates Affected:
> January 1, 1995 thru June 21, 1999
>
> Serial Numbers Affected:
> 010195-001 thru 062199-100
> The first six numbers represent the production date (month/day/year) and
> the
> last three numbers are the serial number, starting at zero for that
> production run. The maximum serial number is 100. (100 unit max. per
> production run)
>
>
> Page 1 of 4
>
> Reported Failure:
> On June 6, 2004, a Kitfox Model 4 Anphib (C-GOOT) piloted by owner Gary
> Walsh was nearing the end of a 3.5 hour flight to a informal fly-in at the
> Brantford airport in Ontario Canada. Approaching the Brantford airport
> the
> propeller suffered a catastrophic blade cuff retention failure (The part
> that holds the blade assembly into the propeller hub is referred to as a
> cuff) causing one blade to depart from the propeller hub. The pilot
> managed
> to shut the engine off very quickly but the resulting severe propeller
> vibration caused damage to the engine mount frame, exhaust pipes and
> several
> engine support systems. The broken blade assembly had lodged it's self
> into
> the left float. The pilot made a successful dead stick landing on the run
> way with no further damage to the aircraft or injuries to the occupants.
>
> Back Round Information:
> Production of the CAP Model 140 began in 1995 and is currently still in
> production with approximately 890 units sold in 23 countries by NSI and
> Warp
> Drive. NSI has received reports of four catastrophic cuff failures of
> this
> Model since production began. A Lycoming O-235 was the first reported
> failure of the CAP 140 cuff in 1997. Although the failure was later
> determined to be a misapplication of the Model 140 (Non-approved engine
> type) the cuff was revised (version 2) to increase its torsional load
> capabilities. The three other failed units were manufactured for use on
> 80
> HP Rotax 912 UL engines. These three Rotax applications were later
> transferred/installed onto the 100 HP 912S. One of them (Ray Volk Kitfox)
> had 720 hours on his 912UL and then an additional 200 plus on his
> replacement 912S engine. Of the 3, two of them had blade strikes during
> their history.
>
> NSI has produced three versions of the Model 140 since production began.
> Version 1 units were produced from January of 1995 to June of 1999. The
> version 2 units were produced from March of 1998 to November 1, 2004.
> Version 3 is the current production unit, and other than revisions to the
> blade cuff, no other major changes have been made to the hub or blade
> retention components.
>
> Gary Walsh purchased a used CAP propeller for his Kitfox and it is unknown
> how many flight hours and type of service/maintenance were on the unit
> prior
> to being purchased by Gary. He reports that he has more than 210 hours of
> use on the Rotax 912S. To date, NSI has not received any reports of a
> version 2 cuff failure when used on Rotax 912 and 914 engines. There are
> examples of
>
> Failure Review:
> What all four failures have in common is that they were version 1 units
> produced prior to 1999 and that the failure of the type 2024-T3 aluminum
> version 1 cuff was due to metal fatigue. The fatigue was the result of an
> increase in the level of torsional vibration from the 100HP Rotax when
> compared to the 80 HP 912UL. This dog-fight between the crankshaft and
> propeller occurs at low engine operating speeds (less than 2000 RPM) when
> starting, idling and shut-down.
>
> Contributing factors to the failure
> 1. Upon inspection of Gary Walsh's failed propeller assembly, there
> was
> significant evidence of improper assembly/maintenance of the unit. One of
> the blade cuffs had 41 deep hammer/punch marks on an important mating
> surface adjacent to a ball bearing race that
>
> Page 2 of 4
>
> supports the cuff/blade assembly in the hub. The main support ball
> bearing
> on another cuff had been improperly handled causing both the inner and
> outer
> races to become distorted and was binding when rotated.
> 2. Gary Walsh indicated that his Rotax engine manual recommended
> that
> the engine run at 1600 to 1800 RPM during the warm up period. At this
> speed
> the engine is not above the 2000 RPM minimum required to stay out of the
> severe torsional range of this engine. It is estimated that the fatigue
> life of the version 1 cuff is decreased by 80% when allowed to operate
> below
> 2000 RPM for prolonged periods of time such as the case at hand. Rotax
> has
> since revised the idle speed to 2100 to help relieve several problems,
> such
> as displacing the carburetors at idle while in flight.
>
> Determination:
> Fatigue life of the version 2 cuff can be improved by decreasing the
> clearance between the cuff and supporting outboard rulon bearing, adding
> additional material to the cross section in the area of the cuff that
> failed, replacing the hard coat anodizing with sulfuric acid anodizing for
> corrosion protection and modifying the relief radius (stress riser) in the
> corner of the thrust bearing flange.
> The version 3 cuff incorporates these revisions.
>
> In addition to the above revisions, an increase in idle speed will help
> stabilize the cuff flange stresses by maintaining a greater centrifugal
> force on the propeller blade assembly. The reduction of both torsional
> vibration and cuff flange rocking loads during engine idling will
> significantly increase the resistance of the cuff to metal fatigue and
> extend the useful service life.
>
> It does not appear that the Anphib application had any effect/cause on the
> failed cuff.
>
> Fatigue life with the cuff will very from engine to engine depending upon
> the level of torsional vibration that the propeller is subjected to.
> Based
> on past flight experience and structural analysis the following chart is
> the
> recommended service life for cuff replacement.
>
> Cuff Service Life (In hours)
> Engine Version 1 Version 2 Version 3
> Remarks
> Rotax 912UL 750 1000
> 2000 See
> engine operating limits
> Rotax 912S 200* 700 1500
> See engine operating limits
> Rotax 914 T 750 1000
> 2000 See
> engine operating limits
> NSI EA81 1500 2000
> 3000 No
> limitations
> NSI EA81 Turbo 1500 2000 3000
> No
> limitations
> Solar T-62 1500 2000
> 3000 3200
> RPM max prop speed
> Garrett 150 1500 2000
> 3000 3200
> RPM max prop speed
> Jabaru 3300 N/A** 1000 2000
> Still in
> field /flight testing
> * Based on worst case scenario. ** N/A: Not approved for this
> engine/model.
>
> Mandatory Requirement:
> When the cuff has reached its service life, it MUST BE REPLACED with type
> version 3 before returning the CAP to service. The original cuff should
> be
> discarded and no longer used for aircraft application.
>
> Page 3 of 4
>
> Cuff Identification:
> Identification of the cuff version can be made by measuring the inside
> diameter hole located in the inboard end of the cuff. (Located just inside
> of the blade rotation drive pin radius) The blade assembly needs to be
> removed from the hub in order to expose the inboard portion of the cuff
> for
> measurement.
> Version 1 cuff has a 1.250" diameter hole.
> Version 2 cuff has a 1.100" diameter hole.
> Version 3 cuff has a .550" diameter hole.
>
> Repairs/Replacement Parts Required To Maintain/Return CAP 140 To Service:
> Remove all blades from the hub and return to NSI. NSI will
> replace:
> 1. The existing (3) cuffs with a type version 3.
> 2. Replace blade (6) retention collets.
> 3. New (3) rulon cuff bearings.
> 4. New O-ring grease seals.
> 5. Adjust blade tracking to .180 Max. T.I.R. at blade tip.
> 6. Adjust blade pitch differential between blades to Max. +/- .25
> degrees. (1.0" in from blade tip)
>
> Propeller Operating Limits:
> All propellers should be balanced on the aircraft within the first 10
> hours
> of service.
>
> Engine Operating Limits and Recommendations: (Rotax 912UL/912S/914T)
> 1. 2100 RPM minimum idle speed.
> 2. Establish cold start procedures that avoid operation of the engine
> below
> 2100 RPM.
> 3. To reduce torsional stress to the entire propulsion system and air
> frame, installation of Rotax optional "Slipper Clutch" in reduction
> transmission. (Highly recommended by Rotax for all propeller combinations
> and by NSI with use of the CAP Model 140)
>
> Cost:
> All units affected by this AD are beyond the 2 year NSI warranty
> period.
> Parts And Labor to complete the above repairs.... $545.00 USD (Listed
> above)
> Plus shipping costs..... Paid by
> customer
>
> Lead Time to Complete Repairs:
> Typical service time, without blade replacement.... 7 to 10 working
> days
> With new blade replacement.. 30 to 60 days
>
> Page 4 of 4
>
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Mounting Ring |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: John King <kingjohne@adelphia.net>
Roger,
Did you get your 912 from SkyStar or somewhere else? One of the mods SkyStar performs
on the 912 for the Kitfox installation is to rotate the water pump. I
never knew why, but this may be the reason. I put a 912UL in my Model IV and
a 912S in my Series 6 and never had that problem. Both of my engines were purchased
from SkyStar. I would not attempt to bend the aluminum ports on the water
pump cover.
--
John King
Warrenton, VA
Donna and Roger McConnell wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Donna and Roger McConnell" <rdmac@swbell.net>
>
>I need some advice from members that have installed the Rotax 912s on there
>Model 5, 6 or 7. Currently I am installing the Mount Ring on the back of a
>912s and before I could get the mount on I had to remove the water pump
>cover because the four aluminum tubes running to it were in the way. After I
>got the Ring Mount on and was reinstalling the water pump cover the two
>tubes on the left side of the cover were in the way of the supports on the
>Ring Mount. These aluminum tubes have rubber hoses attached to them coming
>from each cylinder head. My question is can these tubes be bent slightly to
>one side in order to reattach the rubber hoses? Something is going to have
>to be moved or modified in order to get this Ring Mount to work. Has anyone
>on the List run into this kind of problem?
>
> Roger Mac
>
> S7/912s
>
>
>
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Changing out stock fuel fills |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
Has anyone changed to a flush mount type fuel fill. I was going to
refurbish what I have but have decided what the heck might as well do it
all. There is some corrosion inside the stock tank part that has me
concerned. I found an item in ACS that looks interesting and it is a vented
type. My thought was that the top of the wing is a low pressure area and it
might not let enough air in to allow fuel to drain. Page 164 of their
catalog "twist to lock flush fuel caps. What do you folks think?
Rick
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | [ Lynn Matteson ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
Subject: Film Stripped from Flaps...
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/lynnmatt@jps.net.03.19.2005/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures@matronics.com
Message 32
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|
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
At 06:42 PM 3/19/2005 +0100, you wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Torgeir Mortensen <torgemor@online.no>
>
>Hi Guy,
>
...
>However, don't install this device before your engine is passed the break
>in, -and you're familiar with the original -setup/handling. My best
>advice.
>
>
>Torgeir.
My engine was broken in on a test stand so that's done. Why would I wait
until after flight to install this?
Thanks,
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99% done, thanks to Bob Ducar.
Do not archive
Message 33
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Harry Tucker" <harry@jts.co.uk>
Hi
When one finishes off a Kitfox one needs to apply a Stainless steel
plaque to the frame showing builder and other pertinent details of the
model and engine.
Does anyone know where to get such a thing as I have looked at Aircraft
Spruce to no avail.
Thanks
Harry Tucker
PO Box 2830, White River 1240 South Africa
Tel ++ 27 13 751 5018 Fax ++ 27 33 13 751 1042
Email harry@htucker.com <mailto:harry@htucker.com>
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