Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:29 AM - Re: Runway marker question (Tom Beirne)
2. 03:58 AM - Re: Runway marker question (vetdrem)
3. 10:35 AM - Re: 912s installation (JetPilot)
4. 11:40 AM - Re: Header tank location (Lynn Matteson)
5. 12:56 PM - Removing a wheel to fix a tire? (Pete Christensen)
6. 01:06 PM - Re: Removing a wheel to fix a tire? (Dwight Purdy)
7. 01:36 PM - Re: Removing a wheel to fix a tire? (Tom Jones)
8. 01:47 PM - Oil / Oil filter recomendation for 912UL (pperrynas)
9. 02:07 PM - Re: Removing a wheel to fix a tire? (Bob Brennan)
10. 02:17 PM - Re: Oil / Oil filter recomendation for 912UL (vetdrem)
11. 02:23 PM - Re: Removing a wheel to fix a tire? (Pete Christensen)
12. 02:43 PM - Re: Removing a wheel to fix a tire? (Bob Brennan)
13. 03:03 PM - Re: Removing a wheel to fix a tire? (Keith C.)
14. 03:24 PM - Re: Removing a wheel to fix a tire? (john beirne)
15. 03:25 PM - Re: Re: Oil / Oil filter recomendation for 912UL (Pete Christensen)
16. 03:30 PM - Re: Removing a wheel to fix a tire? (Pete Christensen)
17. 03:34 PM - Re: Re: Removing a wheel to fix a tire? (Pete Christensen)
18. 03:38 PM - Re: Removing a wheel to fix a tire? (Dee Young)
19. 03:46 PM - Re: Removing a wheel to fix a tire? (Keith C.)
20. 04:00 PM - Re: Removing a wheel to fix a tire? (Bob Brennan)
21. 04:16 PM - Re: Header tank location (Marco Menezes)
22. 04:52 PM - Sat 8/30/08 Marion Ind.,Fly In (steve shinabery)
23. 05:13 PM - Re: Header tank location (Lynn Matteson)
24. 05:15 PM - Re: Re: Removing a wheel to fix a tire? (Lynn Matteson)
25. 05:42 PM - Re: Removing a wheel to fix a tire? (Lynn Matteson)
26. 06:23 PM - Re: Removing a wheel to fix a tire? (dave)
27. 07:03 PM - Re: Removing a wheel to fix a tire? (Tom Jones)
28. 07:12 PM - Re: Re: Removing a wheel to fix a tire? (Rexinator)
29. 09:34 PM - Re: Header tank location (patrick reilly)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Runway marker question |
In the UK any orange and white checkered markers like this would denote the boundary
of an airfield or an area unfit for the movement of aircraft (such as a
perimeter or service road). Given that this is stateside it is unusual to see
them. Maybe they are just midpoint markers as the distance to the trees is difficult
to judge in that photo and makes the distance remaining look shorter than
it probably is. One might get a bit nervous with those trees rushing at you.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1581#201581
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Runway marker question |
I would think that they are a locally devised "Go-No Go" marker. The "rule -of-thumb"
is that if you don't have 70% of your take off speed by the time you have
used 50% of the available runway, abort the take off.
I think that I would use those markers as a very visible indication to know if
I was going to make a successful take off, or if I needed to give up.
Louie
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1583#201583
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: 912s installation |
Can you post those pictures on the list. I am also building a model 7 with a Rotax
912-S, and I would be willing to bet that many more of this combination will
be built in the future. This would be good information to have posted here
on the list.
Thanks,
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1622#201622
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Header tank location |
Deke was kind enough to send it my way in exchange for some future
consideration....next-born son or something like that. : )
It's a Kitfox tank, made of some kind of cast plastic, with brass
bungs cast right in for all the fittings. My old tank was rectangular
all the way, but this new one is designed to be located right behind
the seat, and to that end has a slope on the upper forward surface to
clear the slope of the seat back.
On second thought, maybe I'm imagining those brass bungs being cast
in....better score me as not being sure of that feature. I know the
one on the side of the tank, like where you'd put an optical low-fuel
sender is a just plain threaded hole...plenty of beef, though.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster
Jabiru 2200, 562 hrs and holding for repairs
Status: "Condition grounded, but determined to try." (Pink
Floyd..."Learning to Fly")
On Aug 29, 2008, at 11:39 PM, patrick reilly wrote:
> Lynn, Is your's an aluminum or plastic tank? Where did you get it?
> Did you install the sump drain in the tank, or was it in the tank
> when you bought it?
>
> Pat Reilly
> Mod 3 582 Rebuild
> Rockford, IL
>
> > From: lynnmatt@jps.net
> > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Header tank location
> > Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 07:04:29 -0400
> > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> >
> >
> > The drain is right in the very bottom of the header tank, and is a
> > "sensible drain" in my opinion...that is, the floor of the tank dips
> > down to the drain, unlike the wing tank drain locations, which look
> > like they dip down but they don't. Also, the fuel outlet is about 1"
> > at least above this location, so you have a large capacity for gunk
> > to locate before it EVER would get high enough to go out the fuel
> > outlet hole.
> > I set my tank up so that the quick drain is right at the fabric
> > surface, then reinforced the fabric around the hole, and used a
> > plastic ring around that hole that has a flange on it for gluing to
> > the fabric.
> >
> > Lynn Matteson
> > Kitfox IV Speedster
> > Jabiru 2200, 562 hrs and holding for repairs
> > Status: "Condition grounded, but determined to try." (Pink
> > Floyd..."Learning to Fly")
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Aug 28, 2008, at 11:00 PM, patrick reilly wrote:
> >
> > > Lynn, Where is the drain located and access point. If I move my
> > > tank to the lower position or get a new one, a sump drain sounds
> > > like a great idea.
> > > Do not archive
> > >
> > > Pat
> > >
> > > > From: lynnmatt@jps.net
> > > > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Header tank location
> > > > Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 20:05:27 -0400
> > > > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com; patreilly43@hotmail.com
> > > >
> <lynnmatt@jps.net>
> > > >
> > > > Yes, Pat, I have a "quickdrain" I think it's called, and I
> use it to
> > > > sump the header to check for water....VERY seldom ever
> finding any.
> > > > It was suggested here that the drains in the wing tanks are just
> > > > another source of leaks, and that the drain in the low-mounted
> > > header
> > > > tank serves the same purpose. In fact, it serves a better
> > > > purpose...it gets any moisture that might get into the system
> > > between
> > > > the wing tanks and the header tank.
> > > >
> > > > Lynn Matteson
> > > > Kitfox IV Speedster
> > > > Jabiru 2200, 562 hrs and holding for repairs
> > > > Status: "Condition grounded, but determined to try." (Pink
> > > > Floyd..."Learning to Fly")
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > On Aug 28, 2008, at 6:12 PM, patrick reilly wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Lynn, Thanks for the info. Do you have a drain on the
> bottom of
> > > the
> > > > > header? I was told that with the header lower, the chance of
> > > > > loosing pressure with low wing tank volume, you stand less
> of a
> > > > > chance of gas flow quiting. My plane has a gascolator on the
> > > > > firewall. I guess I will use it with the 582.
> > > > >
> > > > > Pat Do not archive
> > > > >
> > > > > > From: lynnmatt@jps.net
> > > > > > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Header tank location
> > > > > > Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 06:24:43 -0400
> > > > > > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> > > > > >
> > > <lynnmatt@jps.net>
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Pat-
> > > > > >
> > > > > > For me it serves as a "gascolator".....the final (I hope)
> > > resting
> > > > > > place for any water that might have found its way into the
> > > > > system. (I
> > > > > > have a filter in each line coming into this tank, and one
> > > after, to
> > > > > > catch any dirt.)
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Lynn Matteson
> > > > > > Kitfox IV Speedster
> > > > > > Jabiru 2200, 562 hrs and holding for repairs
> > > > > > Status: "Condition grounded, but determined to try." (Pink
> > > > > > Floyd..."Learning to Fly")
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > On Aug 27, 2008, at 11:44 PM, Pat Reilly wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > > Kitfoxers, My mod 3 has the header tank located high
> behind
> > > the
> > > > > > > seats. The current models have the header tank located low
> > > behind
> > > > > > > the co-pilots seat. Is there an advantage to the new lower
> > > > > location?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Pat Reilly
> > > > > > > Mod 3 582 Rebuild
> > > > > > > Rockf
> > > > > > > ==========
> > > > > > > forums.matronics.com_-
> > > > > > > =================================== _-
> > > > > > > contribution_-
> > > > > > > ================================>
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List_-
> > > > > =================================== _-
> > > > > forums.matronics.com_-
> > > > > =================================== _-
> > > > > contribution_-
> > > > > ==================================
> > > >===================
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List_-
> > > =================================== _-
> > > forums.matronics.com_-
> > > ========== _-
> > > contribution_-
> > > ==========================
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List_-
> ============================================================ _-
> forums.matronics.com_-
> ============================================================ _-
> contribution_-
> ===========================================================
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Removing a wheel to fix a tire? |
I have a Kitfox III and I presume with the stock wheels. I tried to remove
a wheel to repair a tire but could not get it off. I removed the 6 lug nuts
and 3 allen head screws that attach the brake disk. I tried to tap on the
back to get the wheel to come off. Before I use a "bigger hammer" , I would
like to know if I'm going about this the right way. If so, why would it
stick?
Pete
Hell Paso, TX
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Removing a wheel to fix a tire? |
Sounds right to me. If it is not moving at all then the wheel must
corroded to the hub. If it is moving a little the disc would be stuck
to the wheel.
Dwight
At 03:55 PM 8/30/2008, you wrote:
><apeterchristensen@sbcglobal.net>
>
>I have a Kitfox III and I presume with the stock wheels. I tried to
>remove a wheel to repair a tire but could not get it off. I removed
>the 6 lug nuts and 3 allen head screws that attach the brake
>disk. I tried to tap on the back to get the wheel to come
>off. Before I use a "bigger hammer" , I would like to know if I'm
>going about this the right way. If so, why would it stick?
>
>Pete
>Hell Paso, TX
>
>
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Removing a wheel to fix a tire? |
Pete,
The wheel bolt holes are drilled by the builder. At least I drilled three of the
six holes in each wheel. If holes are not perfect the bolts may be stuck.
Try tapping the bolts out with a plastic mallet. And like mentioned above, the
disk can stick in the lugs it is bolted to.
--------
Tom Jones
Classic IV
503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
Ellensburg, WA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1652#201652
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Oil / Oil filter recomendation for 912UL |
Ok, I've read several posts/replies on oils and filters both on this list as well
as the rotax list, but most are 1-2 yrs old. Anybody have experience with the
AV-9 oil from California Power Systems? I am using 100LL and this seems to
be a good choice and reasonably priced, but would like some experienced input.
The owner/builder had been using a Valvoline semi-synthetic 10-40, but I'm worried
about it not doing the job for the gearbox. As far as the filter, from what
I can tell from the posts there seems to be quite an argument whether or not
the genuine rotax filter is worth the extra money rather than a top quality
purolator/K&N/NAPA, but again would like to hear from anybody that has actually
had bad results from the non-rotax filters or at least knows first hand of
problems. Thanks in advance to those who take the time to respond, Paul P.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1654#201654
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Removing a wheel to fix a tire? |
Hi Pete,
I just did the same thing to my KF2 to replace valves on wheels that hadn't
been removed in many years. If you don't want to take the calipers off (I
didn't) you need to pry the brake disk off the wheel hub (assuming you
already removed the allen head screws) - it's easy enough to get a
screwdriver tip in to do the job. Then I popped the lug screws out of the
hub with a rubber mallet. Then the wheel had to be coaxed off, at first with
the rubber mallet then a lot of wiggling.
I would highly recommend pulling the hub and cleaning, examining, and
repacking the bearings. As with a car wheel don't remove the rear bearing
seal unless you have a new one - removal damages them. Also check for any
wobble that can be eliminated by a turn on the castle nut - wobble could
have caused bearing damage.
When replacing be sure to overtighten the castle nut *slightly* to seat the
bearings then back it off, generally just one cotter pin setting. And make
sure you can properly safety wire the brake disk back on, that was the part
I had to learn and buy proper kit for.
Bob Brennan - N717GB
1991 UK Model 2 ELSA Kitfox
Rotax 582 with 3 blade prop
Wrightsville Pa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pete
Christensen
Sent: 30 August 2008 3:56 pm
Subject: Kitfox-List: Removing a wheel to fix a tire?
<apeterchristensen@sbcglobal.net>
I have a Kitfox III and I presume with the stock wheels. I tried to remove
a wheel to repair a tire but could not get it off. I removed the 6 lug nuts
and 3 allen head screws that attach the brake disk. I tried to tap on the
back to get the wheel to come off. Before I use a "bigger hammer" , I would
like to know if I'm going about this the right way. If so, why would it
stick?
Pete
Hell Paso, TX
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Oil / Oil filter recomendation for 912UL |
It's my understanding that the NON-rotax filters have relief pressures lower than
the normal operating pressure of the 912UL. If that is in fact true, then
the oil would bypass the filter completely. This is hear-say, but I couldn't
bring myself to take the chance. I bit the bullet and bought rotax filters.
I wish someone could test both fliter bypass pressures to see if it there is really
a difference.
As for the oil, I am told that when using 100LL you need to stick with a semi synthetic
oil because the full synthetic oils don't stand up to the lead as well.
I use 20-W50 semi-sythetic motorcyle oil designed for four stroke engines.
The havoline brand has worked well for me. Just be sure that the oil is for
four stroke motorcycles because it will have the additive package to take care
of the gears.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1658#201658
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Removing a wheel to fix a tire? |
Thanks for all the help guys!
Bob,
The lug bolts can be driven out? Mine must be frozen. I removed the nuts
without having to have a wrench on the bolt. I suppose I can put the nuts
back on to protect the threads and use a little more muscle to drive the
bolts out the back
Pete
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Brennan" <matronics@bob.brennan.name>
Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 3:00 PM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Removing a wheel to fix a tire?
> <matronics@bob.brennan.name>
>
> Hi Pete,
>
> I just did the same thing to my KF2 to replace valves on wheels that
> hadn't
> been removed in many years. If you don't want to take the calipers off (I
> didn't) you need to pry the brake disk off the wheel hub (assuming you
> already removed the allen head screws) - it's easy enough to get a
> screwdriver tip in to do the job. Then I popped the lug screws out of the
> hub with a rubber mallet. Then the wheel had to be coaxed off, at first
> with
> the rubber mallet then a lot of wiggling.
>
> I would highly recommend pulling the hub and cleaning, examining, and
> repacking the bearings. As with a car wheel don't remove the rear bearing
> seal unless you have a new one - removal damages them. Also check for any
> wobble that can be eliminated by a turn on the castle nut - wobble could
> have caused bearing damage.
>
> When replacing be sure to overtighten the castle nut *slightly* to seat
> the
> bearings then back it off, generally just one cotter pin setting. And make
> sure you can properly safety wire the brake disk back on, that was the
> part
> I had to learn and buy proper kit for.
>
> Bob Brennan - N717GB
> 1991 UK Model 2 ELSA Kitfox
> Rotax 582 with 3 blade prop
> Wrightsville Pa
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pete
> Christensen
> Sent: 30 August 2008 3:56 pm
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Removing a wheel to fix a tire?
>
> <apeterchristensen@sbcglobal.net>
>
> I have a Kitfox III and I presume with the stock wheels. I tried to
> remove
> a wheel to repair a tire but could not get it off. I removed the 6 lug
> nuts
>
> and 3 allen head screws that attach the brake disk. I tried to tap on the
> back to get the wheel to come off. Before I use a "bigger hammer" , I
> would
>
> like to know if I'm going about this the right way. If so, why would it
> stick?
>
> Pete
> Hell Paso, TX
>
>
>
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Removing a wheel to fix a tire? |
Pete,
I would wait for other listers to weigh in on the lug bolts before trying
too hard to pop them out, but they should be just press fit, mine were. A
couple of mine were loose enough to come out when I was wiggling
(struggling) with getting the wheel off but some stayed in when the wheel
finally came loose. On the other side I did pop them all out first because
it made getting the wheel off easier.
The best technique, bolts in or out, is to slowly spin the wheel whilst
tapping the hub with a hard *rubber* mallet. Obviously never use metal on
metal. Also I used some 3-in-1, left to penetrate for at least 10 minutes or
so on bolts and hubs. Brake disks too but be careful not to get *any* on the
disk surface, it will stay there a long time and glaze in use.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pete
Christensen
Sent: 30 August 2008 5:23 pm
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Removing a wheel to fix a tire?
<apeterchristensen@sbcglobal.net>
Thanks for all the help guys!
Bob,
The lug bolts can be driven out? Mine must be frozen. I removed the nuts
without having to have a wrench on the bolt. I suppose I can put the nuts
back on to protect the threads and use a little more muscle to drive the
bolts out the back
Pete
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Brennan" <matronics@bob.brennan.name>
Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 3:00 PM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Removing a wheel to fix a tire?
> <matronics@bob.brennan.name>
>
> Hi Pete,
>
> I just did the same thing to my KF2 to replace valves on wheels that
> hadn't
> been removed in many years. If you don't want to take the calipers off (I
> didn't) you need to pry the brake disk off the wheel hub (assuming you
> already removed the allen head screws) - it's easy enough to get a
> screwdriver tip in to do the job. Then I popped the lug screws out of the
> hub with a rubber mallet. Then the wheel had to be coaxed off, at first
> with
> the rubber mallet then a lot of wiggling.
>
> I would highly recommend pulling the hub and cleaning, examining, and
> repacking the bearings. As with a car wheel don't remove the rear bearing
> seal unless you have a new one - removal damages them. Also check for any
> wobble that can be eliminated by a turn on the castle nut - wobble could
> have caused bearing damage.
>
> When replacing be sure to overtighten the castle nut *slightly* to seat
> the
> bearings then back it off, generally just one cotter pin setting. And make
> sure you can properly safety wire the brake disk back on, that was the
> part
> I had to learn and buy proper kit for.
>
> Bob Brennan - N717GB
> 1991 UK Model 2 ELSA Kitfox
> Rotax 582 with 3 blade prop
> Wrightsville Pa
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pete
> Christensen
> Sent: 30 August 2008 3:56 pm
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Removing a wheel to fix a tire?
>
> <apeterchristensen@sbcglobal.net>
>
> I have a Kitfox III and I presume with the stock wheels. I tried to
> remove
> a wheel to repair a tire but could not get it off. I removed the 6 lug
> nuts
>
> and 3 allen head screws that attach the brake disk. I tried to tap on the
> back to get the wheel to come off. Before I use a "bigger hammer" , I
> would
>
> like to know if I'm going about this the right way. If so, why would it
> stick?
>
> Pete
> Hell Paso, TX
>
>
>
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Removing a wheel to fix a tire? |
This may be off the wall but if you release the disk (allens) and just take
the axel nut off doesn't the whole wheel just come off? No lug nut removal
needed.
Keith C.
Mod IV Speedster 912 IVO
Mather (MHR) CA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Brennan" <matronics@bob.brennan.name>
Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 2:42 PM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Removing a wheel to fix a tire?
> <matronics@bob.brennan.name>
>
> Pete,
>
> I would wait for other listers to weigh in on the lug bolts before trying
> too hard to pop them out, but they should be just press fit, mine were. A
> couple of mine were loose enough to come out when I was wiggling
> (struggling) with getting the wheel off but some stayed in when the wheel
> finally came loose. On the other side I did pop them all out first because
> it made getting the wheel off easier.
>
> The best technique, bolts in or out, is to slowly spin the wheel whilst
> tapping the hub with a hard *rubber* mallet. Obviously never use metal on
> metal. Also I used some 3-in-1, left to penetrate for at least 10 minutes
> or
> so on bolts and hubs. Brake disks too but be careful not to get *any* on
> the
> disk surface, it will stay there a long time and glaze in use.
>
> Bob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pete
> Christensen
> Sent: 30 August 2008 5:23 pm
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Removing a wheel to fix a tire?
>
> <apeterchristensen@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Thanks for all the help guys!
>
> Bob,
>
> The lug bolts can be driven out? Mine must be frozen. I removed the nuts
> without having to have a wrench on the bolt. I suppose I can put the nuts
> back on to protect the threads and use a little more muscle to drive the
> bolts out the back
>
> Pete
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Brennan" <matronics@bob.brennan.name>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 3:00 PM
> Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Removing a wheel to fix a tire?
>
>
>> <matronics@bob.brennan.name>
>>
>> Hi Pete,
>>
>> I just did the same thing to my KF2 to replace valves on wheels that
>> hadn't
>> been removed in many years. If you don't want to take the calipers off (I
>> didn't) you need to pry the brake disk off the wheel hub (assuming you
>> already removed the allen head screws) - it's easy enough to get a
>> screwdriver tip in to do the job. Then I popped the lug screws out of the
>> hub with a rubber mallet. Then the wheel had to be coaxed off, at first
>> with
>> the rubber mallet then a lot of wiggling.
>>
>> I would highly recommend pulling the hub and cleaning, examining, and
>> repacking the bearings. As with a car wheel don't remove the rear bearing
>> seal unless you have a new one - removal damages them. Also check for any
>> wobble that can be eliminated by a turn on the castle nut - wobble could
>> have caused bearing damage.
>>
>> When replacing be sure to overtighten the castle nut *slightly* to seat
>> the
>> bearings then back it off, generally just one cotter pin setting. And
>> make
>> sure you can properly safety wire the brake disk back on, that was the
>> part
>> I had to learn and buy proper kit for.
>>
>> Bob Brennan - N717GB
>> 1991 UK Model 2 ELSA Kitfox
>> Rotax 582 with 3 blade prop
>> Wrightsville Pa
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pete
>> Christensen
>> Sent: 30 August 2008 3:56 pm
>> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Kitfox-List: Removing a wheel to fix a tire?
>>
>> <apeterchristensen@sbcglobal.net>
>>
>> I have a Kitfox III and I presume with the stock wheels. I tried to
>> remove
>> a wheel to repair a tire but could not get it off. I removed the 6 lug
>> nuts
>>
>> and 3 allen head screws that attach the brake disk. I tried to tap on
>> the
>> back to get the wheel to come off. Before I use a "bigger hammer" , I
>> would
>>
>> like to know if I'm going about this the right way. If so, why would it
>> stick?
>>
>> Pete
>> Hell Paso, TX
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Removing a wheel to fix a tire? |
I agree, just recently had a wheel off for tube replacement. No need to remove
lug nuts at all- for wheel removal just remove the dust cap over the centre castellated
nut, remove split pin, remove nut, disconnect brake disk from wheel
back, and slide wheel and hub off stub axel.
Curiously when I removed the tyre I found the wheel rim halfs to be welded together?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1673#201673
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Oil / Oil filter recomendation for 912UL |
Here is a good thread on the issue. I use a NAPA because it fits and the
STP won't with carb heat. Read this:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t 821&highlight=pl10241
----- Original Message -----
From: "vetdrem" <vetdrem@hotmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 3:17 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Oil / Oil filter recomendation for 912UL
>
> It's my understanding that the NON-rotax filters have relief pressures
> lower than the normal operating pressure of the 912UL. If that is in fact
> true, then the oil would bypass the filter completely. This is hear-say,
> but I couldn't bring myself to take the chance. I bit the bullet and
> bought rotax filters. I wish someone could test both fliter bypass
> pressures to see if it there is really a difference.
>
> As for the oil, I am told that when using 100LL you need to stick with a
> semi synthetic oil because the full synthetic oils don't stand up to the
> lead as well. I use 20-W50 semi-sythetic motorcyle oil designed for four
> stroke engines. The havoline brand has worked well for me. Just be sure
> that the oil is for four stroke motorcycles because it will have the
> additive package to take care of the gears.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1658#201658
>
>
>
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Removing a wheel to fix a tire? |
Bet it would Keith but then I'd be into packing bearings and I just want to
fix a flat.
Pete
Hell Paso, TX
Kitfox III SN 1000 912
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith C." <kcflys@pacbell.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 4:02 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Removing a wheel to fix a tire?
>
> This may be off the wall but if you release the disk (allens) and just
> take the axel nut off doesn't the whole wheel just come off? No lug nut
> removal needed.
> Keith C.
> Mod IV Speedster 912 IVO
> Mather (MHR) CA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Brennan" <matronics@bob.brennan.name>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 2:42 PM
> Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Removing a wheel to fix a tire?
>
>
>> <matronics@bob.brennan.name>
>>
>> Pete,
>>
>> I would wait for other listers to weigh in on the lug bolts before trying
>> too hard to pop them out, but they should be just press fit, mine were. A
>> couple of mine were loose enough to come out when I was wiggling
>> (struggling) with getting the wheel off but some stayed in when the wheel
>> finally came loose. On the other side I did pop them all out first
>> because
>> it made getting the wheel off easier.
>>
>> The best technique, bolts in or out, is to slowly spin the wheel whilst
>> tapping the hub with a hard *rubber* mallet. Obviously never use metal on
>> metal. Also I used some 3-in-1, left to penetrate for at least 10 minutes
>> or
>> so on bolts and hubs. Brake disks too but be careful not to get *any* on
>> the
>> disk surface, it will stay there a long time and glaze in use.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pete
>> Christensen
>> Sent: 30 August 2008 5:23 pm
>> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Removing a wheel to fix a tire?
>>
>> <apeterchristensen@sbcglobal.net>
>>
>> Thanks for all the help guys!
>>
>> Bob,
>>
>> The lug bolts can be driven out? Mine must be frozen. I removed the
>> nuts
>> without having to have a wrench on the bolt. I suppose I can put the
>> nuts
>> back on to protect the threads and use a little more muscle to drive the
>> bolts out the back
>>
>> Pete
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Bob Brennan" <matronics@bob.brennan.name>
>> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 3:00 PM
>> Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Removing a wheel to fix a tire?
>>
>>
>>> <matronics@bob.brennan.name>
>>>
>>> Hi Pete,
>>>
>>> I just did the same thing to my KF2 to replace valves on wheels that
>>> hadn't
>>> been removed in many years. If you don't want to take the calipers off
>>> (I
>>> didn't) you need to pry the brake disk off the wheel hub (assuming you
>>> already removed the allen head screws) - it's easy enough to get a
>>> screwdriver tip in to do the job. Then I popped the lug screws out of
>>> the
>>> hub with a rubber mallet. Then the wheel had to be coaxed off, at first
>>> with
>>> the rubber mallet then a lot of wiggling.
>>>
>>> I would highly recommend pulling the hub and cleaning, examining, and
>>> repacking the bearings. As with a car wheel don't remove the rear
>>> bearing
>>> seal unless you have a new one - removal damages them. Also check for
>>> any
>>> wobble that can be eliminated by a turn on the castle nut - wobble could
>>> have caused bearing damage.
>>>
>>> When replacing be sure to overtighten the castle nut *slightly* to seat
>>> the
>>> bearings then back it off, generally just one cotter pin setting. And
>>> make
>>> sure you can properly safety wire the brake disk back on, that was the
>>> part
>>> I had to learn and buy proper kit for.
>>>
>>> Bob Brennan - N717GB
>>> 1991 UK Model 2 ELSA Kitfox
>>> Rotax 582 with 3 blade prop
>>> Wrightsville Pa
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pete
>>> Christensen
>>> Sent: 30 August 2008 3:56 pm
>>> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: Kitfox-List: Removing a wheel to fix a tire?
>>>
>>> <apeterchristensen@sbcglobal.net>
>>>
>>> I have a Kitfox III and I presume with the stock wheels. I tried to
>>> remove
>>> a wheel to repair a tire but could not get it off. I removed the 6 lug
>>> nuts
>>>
>>> and 3 allen head screws that attach the brake disk. I tried to tap on
>>> the
>>> back to get the wheel to come off. Before I use a "bigger hammer" , I
>>> would
>>>
>>> like to know if I'm going about this the right way. If so, why would it
>>> stick?
>>>
>>> Pete
>>> Hell Paso, TX
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Removing a wheel to fix a tire? |
I guess that will be plan "b" if all else fails.
Pete
----- Original Message -----
From: "john beirne" <jmcb@oceanfree.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 4:23 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Removing a wheel to fix a tire?
>
> I agree, just recently had a wheel off for tube replacement. No need to
> remove lug nuts at all- for wheel removal just remove the dust cap over
> the centre castellated nut, remove split pin, remove nut, disconnect brake
> disk from wheel back, and slide wheel and hub off stub axel.
> Curiously when I removed the tyre I found the wheel rim half?Ts to be
> welded together?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1673#201673
>
>
>
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Removing a wheel to fix a tire? |
I agree with Keith, it's a very easy way to change the tire. Done it
several times myself.
Dee Young
Model II
N345DY
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Pete Christensen<mailto:apeterchristensen@sbcglobal.net>
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 4:27 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Removing a wheel to fix a tire?
<apeterchristensen@sbcglobal.net<mailto:apeterchristensen@sbcglobal.net>>
Bet it would Keith but then I'd be into packing bearings and I just
want to
fix a flat.
Pete
Hell Paso, TX
Kitfox III SN 1000 912
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith C." <kcflys@pacbell.net<mailto:kcflys@pacbell.net>>
To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>>
Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 4:02 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Removing a wheel to fix a tire?
<kcflys@pacbell.net<mailto:kcflys@pacbell.net>>
>
> This may be off the wall but if you release the disk (allens) and
just
> take the axel nut off doesn't the whole wheel just come off? No lug
nut
> removal needed.
> Keith C.
> Mod IV Speedster 912 IVO
> Mather (MHR) CA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Brennan"
<matronics@bob.brennan.name<mailto:matronics@bob.brennan.name>>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>>
> Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 2:42 PM
> Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Removing a wheel to fix a tire?
>
>
>> <matronics@bob.brennan.name<mailto:matronics@bob.brennan.name>>
>>
>> Pete,
>>
>> I would wait for other listers to weigh in on the lug bolts before
trying
>> too hard to pop them out, but they should be just press fit, mine
were. A
>> couple of mine were loose enough to come out when I was wiggling
>> (struggling) with getting the wheel off but some stayed in when the
wheel
>> finally came loose. On the other side I did pop them all out first
>> because
>> it made getting the wheel off easier.
>>
>> The best technique, bolts in or out, is to slowly spin the wheel
whilst
>> tapping the hub with a hard *rubber* mallet. Obviously never use
metal on
>> metal. Also I used some 3-in-1, left to penetrate for at least 10
minutes
>> or
>> so on bolts and hubs. Brake disks too but be careful not to get
*any* on
>> the
>> disk surface, it will stay there a long time and glaze in use.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From:
owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com<mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@ma
tronics.com>
>> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pete
>> Christensen
>> Sent: 30 August 2008 5:23 pm
>> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Removing a wheel to fix a tire?
>>
>>
<apeterchristensen@sbcglobal.net<mailto:apeterchristensen@sbcglobal.net>>
>>
>> Thanks for all the help guys!
>>
>> Bob,
>>
>> The lug bolts can be driven out? Mine must be frozen. I removed
the
>> nuts
>> without having to have a wrench on the bolt. I suppose I can put
the
>> nuts
>> back on to protect the threads and use a little more muscle to
drive the
>> bolts out the back
>>
>> Pete
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Bob Brennan"
<matronics@bob.brennan.name<mailto:matronics@bob.brennan.name>>
>> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>>
>> Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 3:00 PM
>> Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Removing a wheel to fix a tire?
>>
>>
>>> <matronics@bob.brennan.name<mailto:matronics@bob.brennan.name>>
>>>
>>> Hi Pete,
>>>
>>> I just did the same thing to my KF2 to replace valves on wheels
that
>>> hadn't
>>> been removed in many years. If you don't want to take the calipers
off
>>> (I
>>> didn't) you need to pry the brake disk off the wheel hub (assuming
you
>>> already removed the allen head screws) - it's easy enough to get a
>>> screwdriver tip in to do the job. Then I popped the lug screws out
of
>>> the
>>> hub with a rubber mallet. Then the wheel had to be coaxed off, at
first
>>> with
>>> the rubber mallet then a lot of wiggling.
>>>
>>> I would highly recommend pulling the hub and cleaning, examining,
and
>>> repacking the bearings. As with a car wheel don't remove the rear
>>> bearing
>>> seal unless you have a new one - removal damages them. Also check
for
>>> any
>>> wobble that can be eliminated by a turn on the castle nut - wobble
could
>>> have caused bearing damage.
>>>
>>> When replacing be sure to overtighten the castle nut *slightly* to
seat
>>> the
>>> bearings then back it off, generally just one cotter pin setting.
And
>>> make
>>> sure you can properly safety wire the brake disk back on, that was
the
>>> part
>>> I had to learn and buy proper kit for.
>>>
>>> Bob Brennan - N717GB
>>> 1991 UK Model 2 ELSA Kitfox
>>> Rotax 582 with 3 blade prop
>>> Wrightsville Pa
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From:
owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com<mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@ma
tronics.com>
>>> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pete
>>> Christensen
>>> Sent: 30 August 2008 3:56 pm
>>> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com<mailto:kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>>> Subject: Kitfox-List: Removing a wheel to fix a tire?
>>>
>>>
<apeterchristensen@sbcglobal.net<mailto:apeterchristensen@sbcglobal.net>>
>>>
>>> I have a Kitfox III and I presume with the stock wheels. I tried
to
>>> remove
>>> a wheel to repair a tire but could not get it off. I removed the
6 lug
>>> nuts
>>>
>>> and 3 allen head screws that attach the brake disk. I tried to
tap on
>>> the
>>> back to get the wheel to come off. Before I use a "bigger hammer"
, I
>>> would
>>>
>>> like to know if I'm going about this the right way. If so, why
would it
>>> stick?
>>>
>>> Pete
>>> Hell Paso, TX
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List<http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?Kitfox-List>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/contributi
on>
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Removing a wheel to fix a tire? |
Pete,
You may find that the lugs don't do anything as they are only there to hold
the rims togather and some are already welded togather. Packing bearings
only means some grease in your hand and a little pressure, not a big thing.
Keith C.
Mod IV Speedster 912 IVO
Mather (MHR) CA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete Christensen" <apeterchristensen@sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 3:27 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Removing a wheel to fix a tire?
> <apeterchristensen@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Bet it would Keith but then I'd be into packing bearings and I just want
> to fix a flat.
>
> Pete
>
> Hell Paso, TX
> Kitfox III SN 1000 912
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Keith C." <kcflys@pacbell.net>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 4:02 PM
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Removing a wheel to fix a tire?
>
>
>>
>> This may be off the wall but if you release the disk (allens) and just
>> take the axel nut off doesn't the whole wheel just come off? No lug nut
>> removal needed.
>> Keith C.
>> Mod IV Speedster 912 IVO
>> Mather (MHR) CA
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Bob Brennan" <matronics@bob.brennan.name>
>> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 2:42 PM
>> Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Removing a wheel to fix a tire?
>>
>>
>>> <matronics@bob.brennan.name>
>>>
>>> Pete,
>>>
>>> I would wait for other listers to weigh in on the lug bolts before
>>> trying
>>> too hard to pop them out, but they should be just press fit, mine were.
>>> A
>>> couple of mine were loose enough to come out when I was wiggling
>>> (struggling) with getting the wheel off but some stayed in when the
>>> wheel
>>> finally came loose. On the other side I did pop them all out first
>>> because
>>> it made getting the wheel off easier.
>>>
>>> The best technique, bolts in or out, is to slowly spin the wheel whilst
>>> tapping the hub with a hard *rubber* mallet. Obviously never use metal
>>> on
>>> metal. Also I used some 3-in-1, left to penetrate for at least 10
>>> minutes or
>>> so on bolts and hubs. Brake disks too but be careful not to get *any* on
>>> the
>>> disk surface, it will stay there a long time and glaze in use.
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pete
>>> Christensen
>>> Sent: 30 August 2008 5:23 pm
>>> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Removing a wheel to fix a tire?
>>>
>>> <apeterchristensen@sbcglobal.net>
>>>
>>> Thanks for all the help guys!
>>>
>>> Bob,
>>>
>>> The lug bolts can be driven out? Mine must be frozen. I removed the
>>> nuts
>>> without having to have a wrench on the bolt. I suppose I can put the
>>> nuts
>>> back on to protect the threads and use a little more muscle to drive the
>>> bolts out the back
>>>
>>> Pete
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: "Bob Brennan" <matronics@bob.brennan.name>
>>> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>>> Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 3:00 PM
>>> Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Removing a wheel to fix a tire?
>>>
>>>
>>>> <matronics@bob.brennan.name>
>>>>
>>>> Hi Pete,
>>>>
>>>> I just did the same thing to my KF2 to replace valves on wheels that
>>>> hadn't
>>>> been removed in many years. If you don't want to take the calipers off
>>>> (I
>>>> didn't) you need to pry the brake disk off the wheel hub (assuming you
>>>> already removed the allen head screws) - it's easy enough to get a
>>>> screwdriver tip in to do the job. Then I popped the lug screws out of
>>>> the
>>>> hub with a rubber mallet. Then the wheel had to be coaxed off, at first
>>>> with
>>>> the rubber mallet then a lot of wiggling.
>>>>
>>>> I would highly recommend pulling the hub and cleaning, examining, and
>>>> repacking the bearings. As with a car wheel don't remove the rear
>>>> bearing
>>>> seal unless you have a new one - removal damages them. Also check for
>>>> any
>>>> wobble that can be eliminated by a turn on the castle nut - wobble
>>>> could
>>>> have caused bearing damage.
>>>>
>>>> When replacing be sure to overtighten the castle nut *slightly* to seat
>>>> the
>>>> bearings then back it off, generally just one cotter pin setting. And
>>>> make
>>>> sure you can properly safety wire the brake disk back on, that was the
>>>> part
>>>> I had to learn and buy proper kit for.
>>>>
>>>> Bob Brennan - N717GB
>>>> 1991 UK Model 2 ELSA Kitfox
>>>> Rotax 582 with 3 blade prop
>>>> Wrightsville Pa
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
>>>> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pete
>>>> Christensen
>>>> Sent: 30 August 2008 3:56 pm
>>>> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>>>> Subject: Kitfox-List: Removing a wheel to fix a tire?
>>>>
>>>> <apeterchristensen@sbcglobal.net>
>>>>
>>>> I have a Kitfox III and I presume with the stock wheels. I tried to
>>>> remove
>>>> a wheel to repair a tire but could not get it off. I removed the 6 lug
>>>> nuts
>>>>
>>>> and 3 allen head screws that attach the brake disk. I tried to tap on
>>>> the
>>>> back to get the wheel to come off. Before I use a "bigger hammer" , I
>>>> would
>>>>
>>>> like to know if I'm going about this the right way. If so, why would
>>>> it
>>>> stick?
>>>>
>>>> Pete
>>>> Hell Paso, TX
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Removing a wheel to fix a tire? |
And it's a *really* good idea to clean, inspect, and repack the bearings;
depending on how long ago it was last done. Especially making sure that the
castle nut is fitted properly, over time and wear the castle nut needs to be
checked for snug.
I personally have a preference for taking it all apart and inspecting while
I'm in there. I wasn't the one that built the airplane and I am now the
fifth owner, and I suspect some of the previous owners weren't as thorough
as me so I like to "rebuild" as I go.
Bob Brennan - N717GB
1991 UK Model 2 ELSA Kitfox
Rotax 582 with 3 blade prop
Wrightsville Pa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Keith C.
Sent: 30 August 2008 6:44 pm
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Removing a wheel to fix a tire?
Pete,
You may find that the lugs don't do anything as they are only there to hold
the rims togather and some are already welded togather. Packing bearings
only means some grease in your hand and a little pressure, not a big thing.
Keith C.
Mod IV Speedster 912 IVO
Mather (MHR) CA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete Christensen" <apeterchristensen@sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 3:27 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Removing a wheel to fix a tire?
> <apeterchristensen@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Bet it would Keith but then I'd be into packing bearings and I just want
> to fix a flat.
>
> Pete
>
> Hell Paso, TX
> Kitfox III SN 1000 912
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Keith C." <kcflys@pacbell.net>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 4:02 PM
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Removing a wheel to fix a tire?
>
>
>>
>> This may be off the wall but if you release the disk (allens) and just
>> take the axel nut off doesn't the whole wheel just come off? No lug nut
>> removal needed.
>> Keith C.
>> Mod IV Speedster 912 IVO
>> Mather (MHR) CA
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Bob Brennan" <matronics@bob.brennan.name>
>> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 2:42 PM
>> Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Removing a wheel to fix a tire?
>>
>>
>>> <matronics@bob.brennan.name>
>>>
>>> Pete,
>>>
>>> I would wait for other listers to weigh in on the lug bolts before
>>> trying
>>> too hard to pop them out, but they should be just press fit, mine were.
>>> A
>>> couple of mine were loose enough to come out when I was wiggling
>>> (struggling) with getting the wheel off but some stayed in when the
>>> wheel
>>> finally came loose. On the other side I did pop them all out first
>>> because
>>> it made getting the wheel off easier.
>>>
>>> The best technique, bolts in or out, is to slowly spin the wheel whilst
>>> tapping the hub with a hard *rubber* mallet. Obviously never use metal
>>> on
>>> metal. Also I used some 3-in-1, left to penetrate for at least 10
>>> minutes or
>>> so on bolts and hubs. Brake disks too but be careful not to get *any* on
>>> the
>>> disk surface, it will stay there a long time and glaze in use.
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pete
>>> Christensen
>>> Sent: 30 August 2008 5:23 pm
>>> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Removing a wheel to fix a tire?
>>>
>>> <apeterchristensen@sbcglobal.net>
>>>
>>> Thanks for all the help guys!
>>>
>>> Bob,
>>>
>>> The lug bolts can be driven out? Mine must be frozen. I removed the
>>> nuts
>>> without having to have a wrench on the bolt. I suppose I can put the
>>> nuts
>>> back on to protect the threads and use a little more muscle to drive the
>>> bolts out the back
>>>
>>> Pete
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: "Bob Brennan" <matronics@bob.brennan.name>
>>> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>>> Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 3:00 PM
>>> Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Removing a wheel to fix a tire?
>>>
>>>
>>>> <matronics@bob.brennan.name>
>>>>
>>>> Hi Pete,
>>>>
>>>> I just did the same thing to my KF2 to replace valves on wheels that
>>>> hadn't
>>>> been removed in many years. If you don't want to take the calipers off
>>>> (I
>>>> didn't) you need to pry the brake disk off the wheel hub (assuming you
>>>> already removed the allen head screws) - it's easy enough to get a
>>>> screwdriver tip in to do the job. Then I popped the lug screws out of
>>>> the
>>>> hub with a rubber mallet. Then the wheel had to be coaxed off, at first
>>>> with
>>>> the rubber mallet then a lot of wiggling.
>>>>
>>>> I would highly recommend pulling the hub and cleaning, examining, and
>>>> repacking the bearings. As with a car wheel don't remove the rear
>>>> bearing
>>>> seal unless you have a new one - removal damages them. Also check for
>>>> any
>>>> wobble that can be eliminated by a turn on the castle nut - wobble
>>>> could
>>>> have caused bearing damage.
>>>>
>>>> When replacing be sure to overtighten the castle nut *slightly* to seat
>>>> the
>>>> bearings then back it off, generally just one cotter pin setting. And
>>>> make
>>>> sure you can properly safety wire the brake disk back on, that was the
>>>> part
>>>> I had to learn and buy proper kit for.
>>>>
>>>> Bob Brennan - N717GB
>>>> 1991 UK Model 2 ELSA Kitfox
>>>> Rotax 582 with 3 blade prop
>>>> Wrightsville Pa
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
>>>> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pete
>>>> Christensen
>>>> Sent: 30 August 2008 3:56 pm
>>>> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>>>> Subject: Kitfox-List: Removing a wheel to fix a tire?
>>>>
>>>> <apeterchristensen@sbcglobal.net>
>>>>
>>>> I have a Kitfox III and I presume with the stock wheels. I tried to
>>>> remove
>>>> a wheel to repair a tire but could not get it off. I removed the 6 lug
>>>> nuts
>>>>
>>>> and 3 allen head screws that attach the brake disk. I tried to tap on
>>>> the
>>>> back to get the wheel to come off. Before I use a "bigger hammer" , I
>>>> would
>>>>
>>>> like to know if I'm going about this the right way. If so, why would
>>>> it
>>>> stick?
>>>>
>>>> Pete
>>>> Hell Paso, TX
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Header tank location |
Pat,
-
I have an extra-header tank, just like the one Lynn describes. I bought i
t from Skystar about-5 years ago when my original tank developed a slow l
eak around one of the brass fittings. Before it arrived, I managed to cure
the problem and it's been fine ever since. If you need it, it's yours for t
he cost of shipping.
-
BYT: The "sump" drain in-my Mod 2 is tee'd into the bottom hole of the he
ader. The other side of the T goes to the engine. Drain line is 3/8" poly w
ith in-line hardware store brass ball valve, leading to a fitting on the ri
ght side belly under back of passenger seat. The belly drain fitting is att
ached through the fabric to a flush-aluminum bracket for reinforcement. D
rain fitting is barbed on inside and has NPT threads on outside so that I c
an attach a removeable, external drain line. Makes it easy to quickly drain
fuel into jerry cans after each flight. I also have a superfluous gascolat
or which I have left in as the last line of defense before fuel gets to eng
ine.
-
Marco Menezes N99KX
Model 2 582-90 C-Box
--- On Sat, 8/30/08, Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net> wrote:
From: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Header tank location
Deke was kind enough to send it my way in exchange for some future
consideration....next-born son or something like that. : )
It's a Kitfox tank, made of some kind of cast plastic, with brass
bungs cast right in for all the fittings. My old tank was rectangular
all the way, but this new one is designed to be located right behind
the seat, and to that end has a slope on the upper forward surface to
clear the slope of the seat back.
On second thought, maybe I'm imagining those brass bungs being cast
in....better score me as not being sure of that feature. I know the
one on the side of the tank, like where you'd put an optical low-fuel
sender is a just plain threaded hole...plenty of beef, though.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster
Jabiru 2200, 562 hrs and holding for repairs
Status: "Condition grounded, but determined to try." (Pink
Floyd..."Learning to Fly")
On Aug 29, 2008, at 11:39 PM, patrick reilly wrote:
> Lynn, Is your's an aluminum or plastic tank? Where did you get it?
> Did you install the sump drain in the tank, or was it in the tank
> when you bought it?
>
> Pat Reilly
> Mod 3 582 Rebuild
> Rockford, IL
>
> > From: lynnmatt@jps.net
> > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Header tank location
> > Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 07:04:29 -0400
> > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> >
<lynnmatt@jps.net>
> >
> > The drain is right in the very bottom of the header tank, and is a
> > "sensible drain" in my opinion...that is, the floor of the
tank dips
> > down to the drain, unlike the wing tank drain locations, which look
> > like they dip down but they don't. Also, the fuel outlet is about
1"
> > at least above this location, so you have a large capacity for gunk
> > to locate before it EVER would get high enough to go out the fuel
> > outlet hole.
> > I set my tank up so that the quick drain is right at the fabric
> > surface, then reinforced the fabric around the hole, and used a
> > plastic ring around that hole that has a flange on it for gluing to
> > the fabric.
> >
> > Lynn Matteson
> > Kitfox IV Speedster
> > Jabiru 2200, 562 hrs and holding for repairs
> > Status: "Condition grounded, but determined to try." (Pink
> > Floyd..."Learning to Fly")
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Aug 28, 2008, at 11:00 PM, patrick reilly wrote:
> >
> > > Lynn, Where is the drain located and access point. If I move my
> > > tank to the lower position or get a new one, a sump drain sounds
> > > like a great idea.
> > > Do not archive
> > >
> > > Pat
> > >
> > > > From: lynnmatt@jps.net
> > > > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Header tank location
> > > > Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 20:05:27 -0400
> > > > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com; patreilly43@hotmail.com
> > > >
> <lynnmatt@jps.net>
> > > >
> > > > Yes, Pat, I have a "quickdrain" I think it's
called, and I
> use it to
> > > > sump the header to check for water....VERY seldom ever
> finding any.
> > > > It was suggested here that the drains in the wing tanks are
just
> > > > another source of leaks, and that the drain in the
low-mounted
> > > header
> > > > tank serves the same purpose. In fact, it serves a better
> > > > purpose...it gets any moisture that might get into the
system
> > > between
> > > > the wing tanks and the header tank.
> > > >
> > > > Lynn Matteson
> > > > Kitfox IV Speedster
> > > > Jabiru 2200, 562 hrs and holding for repairs
> > > > Status: "Condition grounded, but determined to
try." (Pink
> > > > Floyd..."Learning to Fly")
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > On Aug 28, 2008, at 6:12 PM, patrick reilly wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Lynn, Thanks for the info. Do you have a drain on the
> bottom of
> > > the
> > > > > header? I was told that with the header lower, the
chance of
> > > > > loosing pressure with low wing tank volume, you stand
less
> of a
> > > > > chance of gas flow quiting. My plane has a gascolator
on the
> > > > > firewall. I guess I will use it with the 582.
> > > > >
> > > > > Pat Do not archive
> > > > >
> > > > > > From: lynnmatt@jps.net
> > > > > > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Header tank location
> > > > > > Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 06:24:43 -0400
> > > > > > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> > > > > >
Matteson
> > > <lynnmatt@jps.net>
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Pat-
> > > > > >
> > > > > > For me it serves as a
"gascolator".....the final (I hope)
> > > resting
> > > > > > place for any water that might have found its way
into the
> > > > > system. (I
> > > > > > have a filter in each line coming into this tank,
and one
> > > after, to
> > > > > > catch any dirt.)
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Lynn Matteson
> > > > > > Kitfox IV Speedster
> > > > > > Jabiru 2200, 562 hrs and holding for repairs
> > > > > > Status: "Condition grounded, but determined
to try." (Pink
> > > > > > Floyd..."Learning to Fly")
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > On Aug 27, 2008, at 11:44 PM, Pat Reilly wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > > Kitfoxers, My mod 3 has the header tank
located high
> behind
> > > the
> > > > > > > seats. The current models have the header
tank located low
> > > behind
> > > > > > > the co-pilots seat. Is there an advantage to
the new lower
> > > > > location?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Pat Reilly
> > > > > > > Mod 3 582 Rebuild
> > > > > > > Rockf
> > > > > > > ==========
> > > > > > > forums.matronics.com_-
> > > > > > > ====================
=============== _-
> > > > > > > contribution_-
> > > > > > > ====================
============>
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List_-
> > > > > =====================
============== _-
> > > > > forums.matronics.com_-
> > > > > =====================
============== _-
> > > > > contribution_-
> > > > > =====================
=============
> > > >===================
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List_-
> > > =======================
============ _-
> > > forums.matronics.com_-
> > > ========== _-
> > > contribution_-
> > > =======================
===
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> ========================
> ========================
> ========================
=0A=0A=0A
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Sat 8/30/08 Marion Ind.,Fly In |
I just got back from Marion Ind.,Fly In-+car show..I got to meet.Mark
Web+Bob from Cincinnati Ohio that flew up to meet me, in there 2 nice
looking Kitfoxs ...And got to meet all so Dwight Purdy of his home town
Marion Ind.with his Kitfox.In all there were 4 kitfoxs there.. And next
weekend big Fly In..that I will be..www.merf.com fly in .at Grims
Field {I74} Urbana Ohio Sept.6-7,I am planning to camp Fri.night...Look
for me.wearing the Great Lakes Kitfox Fly In 2008,tee shirts,and kitfox
hat..I will bring some more tee shirts to give away. Steve Shinabery
N554KF KF2 see you there at Urbana Ohio
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Header tank location |
There ya go, Pat....are these Northern Lower Michiganders great
folks, or what? First Deke, and now Marco....
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster
Jabiru 2200, 562 hrs and holding for repairs
Status: "Condition grounded, but determined to try." (Pink
Floyd..."Learning to Fly")
do not archive
On Aug 30, 2008, at 7:13 PM, Marco Menezes wrote:
> Pat,
>
> I have an extra header tank, just like the one Lynn describes. I
> bought it from Skystar about 5 years ago when my original tank
> developed a slow leak around one of the brass fittings. Before it
> arrived, I managed to cure the problem and it's been fine ever
> since. If you need it, it's yours for the cost of shipping.
>
> BYT: The "sump" drain in my Mod 2 is tee'd into the bottom hole of
> the header. The other side of the T goes to the engine. Drain line
> is 3/8" poly with in-line hardware store brass ball valve, leading
> to a fitting on the right side belly under back of passenger seat.
> The belly drain fitting is attached through the fabric to a flush
> aluminum bracket for reinforcement. Drain fitting is barbed on
> inside and has NPT threads on outside so that I can attach a
> removeable, external drain line. Makes it easy to quickly drain
> fuel into jerry cans after each flight. I also have a superfluous
> gascolator which I have left in as the last line of defense before
> fuel gets to engine.
>
> Marco Menezes N99KX
> Model 2 582-90 C-Box
>
> --- On Sat, 8/30/08, Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net> wrote:
> From: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Header tank location
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Date: Saturday, August 30, 2008, 2:39 PM
>
> Deke was kind enough to send it my way in exchange for some future
> consideration....next-born son or something like that. : ) It's a
> Kitfox tank, made of some kind of cast plastic, with brass bungs
> cast right in for all the fittings. My old tank was rectangular all
> the way, but this new one is designed to be located right behind
> the seat, and to that end has a slope on the upper forward surface
> to clear the slope of the seat back. On second thought, maybe I'm
> imagining those brass bungs being cast in....better score me as not
> being sure of that feature. I know the one on the side of the tank,
> like where you'd put an optical low-fuel sender is a just plain
> threaded hole...plenty of beef, though. Lynn Matteson Kitfox IV
> Speedster Jabiru 2200, 562 hrs and holding for repairs Status:
> "Condition grounded, but determined to try." (Pink
> Floyd..."Learning to Fly") On Aug 29, 2008, at 11:39 PM, patrick
> reilly wrote: > Lynn, Is your's an aluminum or plastic tank? Where
> did you get it? > Did you install the sump drain in the tank, or
> was it in the tank > when you bought it? > > Pat Reilly > Mod 3 582
> Rebuild > Rockford, IL > > > From: lynnmatt@jps.net > > Subject:
> Re: Kitfox-List: Header tank location > > Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008
> 07:04:29 -0400 > > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com > > > > --> Kitfox-
> List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net> > > > >
> The drain is right in the very bottom of the header tank, and is a
> > > "sensible drain" in my opinion...that is, the floor of the tank
> dips > > down to the drain, unlike the wing tank drain locations,
> which look > > like they dip down but they don't. Also, the fuel
> outlet is about 1" > > at least above this location, so you have a
> large capacity for gunk > > to locate before it EVER would get high
> enough to go out the fuel > > outlet hole. > > I set my tank up so
> that the quick drain is right at the fabric > > surface, then
> reinforced the fabric around the hole, and used a > > plastic ring
> around that hole that has a flange on it for gluing to > > the
> fabric. > > > > Lynn Matteson > > Kitfox IV Speedster > > Jabiru
> 2200, 562 hrs and holding for repairs > > Status: "Condition
> grounded, but determined to try." (Pink > > Floyd..."Learning to
> Fly") > > > > > > > > > > > > On Aug 28, 2008, at 11:00 PM, patrick
> reilly wrote: > > > > > Lynn, Where is the drain located and access
> point. If I move my > > > tank to the lower position or get a new
> one, a sump drain sounds > > > like a great idea. > > > Do not
> archive > > > > > > Pat > > > > > > > From: lynnmatt@jps.net > > >
> > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Header tank location > > > > Date: Thu,
> 28 Aug 2008 20:05:27 -0400 > > > > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com;
> patreilly43@hotmail.com > > > > > > > > --> Kitfox-List message
> posted by: Lynn Matteson > <lynnmatt@jps.net> > > > > > > > > Yes,
> Pat, I have a "quickdrain" I think it's called, and I > use it to >
> > > > sump the header to check for water....VERY seldom ever >
> finding any. > > > > It was suggested here that the drains in the
> wing tanks are just > > > > another source of leaks, and that the
> drain in the low-mounted > > > header > > > > tank serves the same
> purpose. In fact, it serves a better > > > > purpose...it gets any
> moisture that might get into the system > > > between > > > > the
> wing tanks and the header tank. > > > > > > > > Lynn Matteson > > >
> > Kitfox IV Speedster > > > > Jabiru 2200, 562 hrs and holding for
> repairs > > > > Status: "Condition grounded, but determined to
> try." (Pink > > > > Floyd..."Learning to Fly") > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Aug 28, 2008, at 6:12 PM, patrick
> reilly wrote: > > > > > > > > > Lynn, Thanks for the info. Do you
> have a drain on the > bottom of > > > the > > > > > header? I was
> told that with the header lower, the chance of > > > > > loosing
> pressure with low wing tank volume, you stand less > of a > > > > >
> chance of gas flow quiting. My plane has a gascolator on the > > >
> > > firewall. I guess I will use it with the 582. > > > > > > > > >
> > Pat Do not archive > > > > > > > > > > > From: lynnmatt@jps.net >
> > > > > > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Header tank location > > > > >
> > Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 06:24:43 -0400 > > > > > > To: kitfox-
> list@matronics.com > > > > > > > > > > > > --> Kitfox-List message
> posted by: Lynn Matteson > > > <lynnmatt@jps.net> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > Pat- > > > > > > > > > > > > For me it serves as a
> "gascolator".....the final (I hope) > > > resting > > > > > > place
> for any water that might have found its way into the > > > > >
> system. (I > > > > > > have a filter in each line coming into this
> tank, and one > > > after, to > > > > > > catch any dirt.) > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Lynn Matteson > > > > > > Kitfox IV Speedster > > >
> > > > Jabiru 2200, 562 hrs and holding for repairs > > > > > >
> Status: "Condition grounded, but determined to try." (Pink > > > >
> > > Floyd..."Learning to Fly") > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > On Aug 27, 2008, at 11:44 PM, Pat Reilly
> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > Kitfoxers, My mod 3 has the header
> tank located high > behind > > > the > > > > > > > seats. The
> current models have the header tank located low > > > behind > > >
> > > > > the co-pilots seat. Is there an advantage to the new lower
> > > > > > location? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Pat Reilly > > > >
> > > > Mod 3 582 Rebuild > > > > > > > Rockf > > > > > > >
> =========== > > > > > > > forums.matronics.com_- > > > > > > >
> =================================== _- > > > > > > > contribution_-
> > > > > > > > ================================> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-
> List_- > > > > > =================================== _- > > > > >
> forums.matronics.com_- > > > > >
> =================================== _- > > > > > contribution_- > >
> > > > =================================== > > >
> >==================== > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List_- > > >
> =================================== _- > > > forums.matronics.com_-
> > > > ========== _- > > > contribution_- > > >
> =========================== > >= > > > > > > > > http://
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List_- >
> ============================================================ _- >
> forums.matronics.com_- >
> ============================================================ _- >
> contribution_- >
> ===========================================================
>
> _-
> ========================
> 3D=======================3
> Navigator?Kitfox-List _-
> ========================
> 3D=======================3
> ========================
> 3D=======================3
> _-
> ========================
> 3D=======================3
> D============
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Removing a wheel to fix a tire? |
That's the way mine were...Douglas wheels.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster
Jabiru 2200, 562 hrs and holding for repairs
Status: "Condition grounded, but determined to try." (Pink
Floyd..."Learning to Fly")
do not archive
On Aug 30, 2008, at 6:23 PM, john beirne wrote:
>
> I agree, just recently had a wheel off for tube replacement. No
> need to remove lug nuts at all- for wheel removal just remove the
> dust cap over the centre castellated nut, remove split pin, remove
> nut, disconnect brake disk from wheel back, and slide wheel and hub
> off stub axel.
> Curiously when I removed the tyre I found the wheel rim halfs to
> be welded together?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1673#201673
>
>
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Removing a wheel to fix a tire? |
Right you are, Keith....
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster
Jabiru 2200, 562 hrs and holding for repairs
Status: "Condition grounded, but determined to try." (Pink
Floyd..."Learning to Fly")
do not archive
On Aug 30, 2008, at 6:02 PM, Keith C. wrote:
>
> This may be off the wall but if you release the disk (allens) and
> just take the axel nut off doesn't the whole wheel just come off?
> No lug nut removal needed.
> Keith C.
> Mod IV Speedster 912 IVO
> Mather (MHR) CA
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Brennan"
> <matronics@bob.brennan.name>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 2:42 PM
> Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Removing a wheel to fix a tire?
>
>
>> <matronics@bob.brennan.name>
>>
>> Pete,
>>
>> I would wait for other listers to weigh in on the lug bolts before
>> trying
>> too hard to pop them out, but they should be just press fit, mine
>> were. A
>> couple of mine were loose enough to come out when I was wiggling
>> (struggling) with getting the wheel off but some stayed in when
>> the wheel
>> finally came loose. On the other side I did pop them all out first
>> because
>> it made getting the wheel off easier.
>>
>> The best technique, bolts in or out, is to slowly spin the wheel
>> whilst
>> tapping the hub with a hard *rubber* mallet. Obviously never use
>> metal on
>> metal. Also I used some 3-in-1, left to penetrate for at least 10
>> minutes or
>> so on bolts and hubs. Brake disks too but be careful not to get
>> *any* on the
>> disk surface, it will stay there a long time and glaze in use.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pete
>> Christensen
>> Sent: 30 August 2008 5:23 pm
>> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Removing a wheel to fix a tire?
>>
>> <apeterchristensen@sbcglobal.net>
>>
>> Thanks for all the help guys!
>>
>> Bob,
>>
>> The lug bolts can be driven out? Mine must be frozen. I removed
>> the nuts
>> without having to have a wrench on the bolt. I suppose I can put
>> the nuts
>> back on to protect the threads and use a little more muscle to
>> drive the
>> bolts out the back
>>
>> Pete
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Brennan"
>> <matronics@bob.brennan.name>
>> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2008 3:00 PM
>> Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Removing a wheel to fix a tire?
>>
>>
>>> <matronics@bob.brennan.name>
>>>
>>> Hi Pete,
>>>
>>> I just did the same thing to my KF2 to replace valves on wheels that
>>> hadn't
>>> been removed in many years. If you don't want to take the
>>> calipers off (I
>>> didn't) you need to pry the brake disk off the wheel hub
>>> (assuming you
>>> already removed the allen head screws) - it's easy enough to get a
>>> screwdriver tip in to do the job. Then I popped the lug screws
>>> out of the
>>> hub with a rubber mallet. Then the wheel had to be coaxed off, at
>>> first
>>> with
>>> the rubber mallet then a lot of wiggling.
>>>
>>> I would highly recommend pulling the hub and cleaning, examining,
>>> and
>>> repacking the bearings. As with a car wheel don't remove the rear
>>> bearing
>>> seal unless you have a new one - removal damages them. Also check
>>> for any
>>> wobble that can be eliminated by a turn on the castle nut -
>>> wobble could
>>> have caused bearing damage.
>>>
>>> When replacing be sure to overtighten the castle nut *slightly*
>>> to seat
>>> the
>>> bearings then back it off, generally just one cotter pin setting.
>>> And make
>>> sure you can properly safety wire the brake disk back on, that
>>> was the
>>> part
>>> I had to learn and buy proper kit for.
>>>
>>> Bob Brennan - N717GB
>>> 1991 UK Model 2 ELSA Kitfox
>>> Rotax 582 with 3 blade prop
>>> Wrightsville Pa
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pete
>>> Christensen
>>> Sent: 30 August 2008 3:56 pm
>>> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: Kitfox-List: Removing a wheel to fix a tire?
>>>
>>> <apeterchristensen@sbcglobal.net>
>>>
>>> I have a Kitfox III and I presume with the stock wheels. I tried to
>>> remove
>>> a wheel to repair a tire but could not get it off. I removed the
>>> 6 lug
>>> nuts
>>>
>>> and 3 allen head screws that attach the brake disk. I tried to
>>> tap on the
>>> back to get the wheel to come off. Before I use a "bigger
>>> hammer" , I
>>> would
>>>
>>> like to know if I'm going about this the right way. If so, why
>>> would it
>>> stick?
>>>
>>> Pete
>>> Hell Paso, TX
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Removing a wheel to fix a tire? |
Do what Keith said
take off three allen head capsrews to un do rotor
take off dust cap , cotter pin and loosen wheel nut.
remove entire assembly -- might as well check bearings while you in there. SIMPLE
Check caliper while they off to make sure they silde freely or you can get a sticking
caliper in poor brake performance.
OH and how you gonna fix the flat ? You gonna ned a bead breaker for the Douglas
wheels as they have bead locker type rim like a ATV wheel.
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
Flying Videos and Kitfox Info
http://www.cfisher.com/
Realtime Kitfox movies to separate the internet chatter from the truth
http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=kitfoxflyer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1724#201724
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Removing a wheel to fix a tire? |
Dave said
> OH and how you gonna fix the flat ? You gonna ned a bead breaker for the Douglas
wheels as they have bead locker type rim like a ATV wheel.
Pete, if you don't have a tire bead breaker save yourself some grief and take it
directly to the tire shop. It can be done at home but believe me you risk damaging
the wheel without the proper tools. They are an ATV wheel unless you
have the expensive split aircraft wheels.
--------
Tom Jones
Classic IV
503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
Ellensburg, WA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1729#201729
Message 28
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Removing a wheel to fix a tire? |
Yeah, Take digital photos and notes as you go if possible for a Kitfox
wiki article. I'll offer to put it together and online if you can
provide the content.
--
Rex Hefferan
SE Colorado / K-II / 582-C / still waiting repairs
dave wrote:
>
>Do what Keith said
>
>take off three allen head capsrews to un do rotor
>take off dust cap , cotter pin and loosen wheel nut.
>remove entire assembly -- might as well check bearings while you in there. SIMPLE
>
>Check caliper while they off to make sure they silde freely or you can get a sticking
caliper in poor brake performance.
>
>OH and how you gonna fix the flat ? You gonna ned a bead breaker for the Douglas
wheels as they have bead locker type rim like a ATV wheel.
>
>--------
>Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
>Flying Videos and Kitfox Info
>http://www.cfisher.com/
>Realtime Kitfox movies to separate the internet chatter from the truth
>http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=kitfoxflyer
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1724#201724
>
>
>
Message 29
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Header tank location |
Lynn=2C You guys are great! The next time I see you or Marco or meet Deke (
I did buy a compass from Deke and he sent me pictures of a dyamite set of
home built skis I'm going to copy) I could just kiss you. But=2C I'd rather
buy you a beer though.
Do not archive
Pat Reilly
Mod 3 582 Rebuild
Rockford=2C IL > From: lynnmatt@jps.net> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Header t
ank location> Date: Sat=2C 30 Aug 2008 20:12:30 -0400> To: kitfox-list@matr
.net>> > There ya go=2C Pat....are these Northern Lower Michiganders great
> folks=2C or what? First Deke=2C and now Marco....> > Lynn Matteson> Kitfo
x IV Speedster> Jabiru 2200=2C 562 hrs and holding for repairs> Status: "Co
ndition grounded=2C but determined to try." (Pink > Floyd..."Learning to Fl
y")> do not archive> > > > > On Aug 30=2C 2008=2C at 7:13 PM=2C Marco Menez
es wrote:> > > Pat=2C> >> > I have an extra header tank=2C just like the on
e Lynn describes. I > > bought it from Skystar about 5 years ago when my or
iginal tank > > developed a slow leak around one of the brass fittings. Bef
ore it > > arrived=2C I managed to cure the problem and it's been fine ever
> > since. If you need it=2C it's yours for the cost of shipping.> >> > BY
T: The "sump" drain in my Mod 2 is tee'd into the bottom hole of > > the he
ader. The other side of the T goes to the engine. Drain line > > is 3/8" po
ly with in-line hardware store brass ball valve=2C leading > > to a fitting
on the right side belly under back of passenger seat. > > The belly drain
fitting is attached through the fabric to a flush > > aluminum bracket for
reinforcement. Drain fitting is barbed on > > inside and has NPT threads on
outside so that I can attach a > > removeable=2C external drain line. Make
s it easy to quickly drain > > fuel into jerry cans after each flight. I al
so have a superfluous > > gascolator which I have left in as the last line
of defense before > > fuel gets to engine.> >> > Marco Menezes N99KX> > Mod
el 2 582-90 C-Box> >> > --- On Sat=2C 8/30/08=2C Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jp
s.net> wrote:> > From: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>> > Subject: Re: Kit
fox-List: Header tank location> > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com> > Date: Sa
turday=2C August 30=2C 2008=2C 2:39 PM> >> > --> Kitfox-List message posted
by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net> > > Deke was kind enough to send it m
y way in exchange for some future > > consideration....next-born son or som
ething like that. : ) It's a > > Kitfox tank=2C made of some kind of cast p
lastic=2C with brass bungs > > cast right in for all the fittings. My old t
ank was rectangular all > > the way=2C but this new one is designed to be l
ocated right behind > > the seat=2C and to that end has a slope on the uppe
r forward surface > > to clear the slope of the seat back. On second though
t=2C maybe I'm > > imagining those brass bungs being cast in....better scor
e me as not > > being sure of that feature. I know the one on the side of t
he tank=2C > > like where you'd put an optical low-fuel sender is a just pl
ain > > threaded hole...plenty of beef=2C though. Lynn Matteson Kitfox IV >
> Speedster Jabiru 2200=2C 562 hrs and holding for repairs Status: > > "Co
ndition grounded=2C but determined to try." (Pink > > Floyd..."Learning to
Fly") On Aug 29=2C 2008=2C at 11:39 PM=2C patrick > > reilly wrote: > Lynn
=2C Is your's an aluminum or plastic tank? Where > > did you get it? > Did
you install the sump drain in the tank=2C or > > was it in the tank > when
you bought it? > > Pat Reilly > Mod 3 582 > > Rebuild > Rockford=2C IL > >
> From: lynnmatt@jps.net > > Subject: > > Re: Kitfox-List: Header tank loca
tion > > Date: Fri=2C 29 Aug 2008 > > 07:04:29 -0400 > > To: kitfox-list@ma
tronics.com > > > > --> Kitfox- > > List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <
lynnmatt@jps.net> > > > > > > The drain is right in the very bottom of the
header tank=2C and is a > > > > "sensible drain" in my opinion...that is=2C
the floor of the tank > > dips > > down to the drain=2C unlike the wing ta
nk drain locations=2C > > which look > > like they dip down but they don't.
Also=2C the fuel > > outlet is about 1" > > at least above this location
=2C so you have a > > large capacity for gunk > > to locate before it EVER
would get high > > enough to go out the fuel > > outlet hole. > > I set my
tank up so > > that the quick drain is right at the fabric > > surface=2C t
hen > > reinforced the fabric around the hole=2C and used a > > plastic rin
g > > around that hole that has a flange on it for gluing to > > the > > fa
bric. > > > > Lynn Matteson > > Kitfox IV Speedster > > Jabiru > > 2200=2C
562 hrs and holding for repairs > > Status: "Condition > > grounded=2C but
determined to try." (Pink > > Floyd..."Learning to > > Fly") > > > > > > >
> > > > > On Aug 28=2C 2008=2C at 11:00 PM=2C patrick > > reilly wrote: > >
> > > Lynn=2C Where is the drain located and access > > point. If I move m
y > > > tank to the lower position or get a new > > one=2C a sump drain sou
nds > > > like a great idea. > > > Do not > > archive > > > > > > Pat > > >
> > > > From: lynnmatt@jps.net > > > > > > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Heade
r tank location > > > > Date: Thu=2C > > 28 Aug 2008 20:05:27 -0400 > > > >
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com=3B > > patreilly43@hotmail.com > > > > > > >
> --> Kitfox-List message > > posted by: Lynn Matteson > <lynnmatt@jps.net
> > > > > > > > > Yes=2C > > Pat=2C I have a "quickdrain" I think it's call
ed=2C and I > use it to > > > > > > sump the header to check for water....V
ERY seldom ever > > > finding any. > > > > It was suggested here that the d
rains in the > > wing tanks are just > > > > another source of leaks=2C and
that the > > drain in the low-mounted > > > header > > > > tank serves the
same > > purpose. In fact=2C it serves a better > > > > purpose...it gets
any > > moisture that might get into the system > > > between > > > > the >
> wing tanks and the header tank. > > > > > > > > Lynn Matteson > > > > >
> Kitfox IV Speedster > > > > Jabiru 2200=2C 562 hrs and holding for > > re
pairs > > > > Status: "Condition grounded=2C but determined to > > try." (P
ink > > > > Floyd..."Learning to Fly") > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > On Aug 28=2C 2008=2C at 6:12 PM=2C patrick > > reilly wrote
: > > > > > > > > > Lynn=2C Thanks for the info. Do you > > have a drain on
the > bottom of > > > the > > > > > header? I was > > told that with the h
eader lower=2C the chance of > > > > > loosing > > pressure with low wing t
ank volume=2C you stand less > of a > > > > > > > chance of gas flow quitin
g. My plane has a gascolator on the > > > > > > > firewall. I guess I will
use it with the 582. > > > > > > > > > > > > Pat Do not archive > > > > > >
> > > > > From: lynnmatt@jps.net > > > > > > > > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List:
Header tank location > > > > > > > > Date: Thu=2C 28 Aug 2008 06:24:43 -04
00 > > > > > > To: kitfox- > > list@matronics.com > > > > > > > > > > > > -
-> Kitfox-List message > > posted by: Lynn Matteson > > > <lynnmatt@jps.net
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Pat- > > > > > > > > > > > > For me it serves
as a > > "gascolator".....the final (I hope) > > > resting > > > > > > pla
ce > > for any water that might have found its way into the > > > > > > > s
ystem. (I > > > > > > have a filter in each line coming into this > > tank
=2C and one > > > after=2C to > > > > > > catch any dirt.) > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > Lynn Matteson > > > > > > Kitfox IV Speedster > > > > > > > > J
abiru 2200=2C 562 hrs and holding for repairs > > > > > > > > Status: "Cond
ition grounded=2C but determined to try." (Pink > > > > > > > > Floyd..."Le
arning to Fly") > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > On Aug 27=2C 2008=2C at 11:44 PM=2C Pat Reilly > > wrote: > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Kitfoxers=2C My mod 3 has the header > > tank located high >
behind > > > the > > > > > > > seats. The > > current models have the heade
r tank located low > > > behind > > > > > > > > > the co-pilots seat. Is th
ere an advantage to the new lower > > > > > > > location? > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > Pat Reilly > > > > > > > > > Mod 3 582 Rebuild > > > > > > > Roc
kf > > > > > > > > > =========== > > > > > > > forums
.matronics.com_- > > > > > > > > > =============
====================== _- > > >
> > > > contribution_- > > > > > > > > > ===========
=====================> > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Ki
tfox- > > List_- > > > > > ================
=================== _- > > > > > > >
forums.matronics.com_- > > > > > > > ============
======================= _- >
> > > > contribution_- > > > > > > > ============
======================= > > >
> > >==================== > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > http:// > > www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-
List_- > > > > > ===================
================ _- > > > forums.matronics.
com_- > > > > > ========== _- > > > contribution_- > >
> > > =======================
==== > >= > > > > > > > > http:// > > www.matronics.com/Navigator
?Kitfox-List_- > > > ==================
================= _- > > > forums.matroni
cs.com_- > > > ====================
=============== _- > > > contribution_- > > >
========================
===========> >> > _- > > =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D= > > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 > > Navigator
?Kitfox-List _- > > =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= > > 3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 > > =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D= > > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 > > _- > > =3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= > > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3 > > D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
=======> > >
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|