Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:22 AM - Re: rudder trim tab (Lynn Matteson)
2. 03:41 AM - Re: Re: Cutting 2/12in. hole in Plexiglass doors (Larry Huntley)
3. 03:42 AM - Re: Installing Fuel Primer (Lynn Matteson)
4. 05:19 AM - Re: Installing Fuel Primer (Don & Betty Stevenson)
5. 05:40 AM - Re: Re: Charging System Theory - A few Questions (Catz631@aol.com)
6. 06:11 AM - Re: Cutting 2/12in. hole in Plexiglass doors (Catz631@aol.com)
7. 06:19 AM - Re: Cutting 2/12in. hole in Plexiglass doors (Tom Jones)
8. 06:42 AM - Re: Stuck Oil Filter (Catz631@aol.com)
9. 08:14 AM - Re: Re: Stuck Oil Filter (Lowell Fitt)
10. 10:00 AM - Re: rudder trim tab (kerrjohna@comcast.net)
11. 10:20 AM - Video test (Tom Jones)
12. 10:21 AM - Re: Stuck Oil Filter (Lynn Matteson)
13. 12:31 PM - Re: Video test (Ted Palamarek)
14. 12:40 PM - Re: Video test (Tom Jones)
15. 03:53 PM - Re: rudder trim tab (KITFOXZ@aol.com)
16. 05:58 PM - Re: rudder trim tab (Lynn Matteson)
17. 05:58 PM - Re: rudder trim tab (Lowell Fitt)
18. 06:08 PM - Re: Re: Stuck Oil Filter (CDE2fly@aol.com)
19. 06:43 PM - Re: rudder trim tab (JetPilot)
20. 06:46 PM - Re: Cutting 2/12in. hole in Plexiglass doors (patrick reilly)
21. 07:06 PM - 912S Choke Return Springs (CDE2fly@aol.com)
22. 07:12 PM - Kitfox - how high have you gone ? (dave)
23. 07:38 PM - Re: Re: rudder trim tab (KITFOXZ@aol.com)
24. 09:52 PM - Re: Kitfox - how high have you gone ? (sourdostan@aol.com)
25. 10:05 PM - Runaway plane - serious mishap - throttle cable (rcsfca)
26. 11:29 PM - Re: rudder trim tab (JC Propeller Design)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: rudder trim tab |
Here is a shot of my present trim tab, soon to be modified with a
servo from the model airplane world, and a controller. The tab looks
larger than it actually is, and I may be shrinking it further. I
staggered the rivets so that it would be more stable, and I attached
it with aluminum rivets so I could "drill it off" when the time came
to hinge it for the servo application. Also, I have since painted it,
so it is a little less obtrusive than it appears.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 654 hrs
Sensenich 62x46 Wood prop
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Status: flying
On May 17, 2009, at 2:56 PM, william lurcott wrote:
> Greetings,
> I have been reading the list here for a while, and want to take the
> opportunity to say thanks to all of you. I have a Series V with a
> Lycoming O-235 which is a great source of fun and unending lessons
> for me. There is one issue that I have, and that is that I must
> always input right rudder. I expect that at higher power settings,
> but at cruise? Anyway, I was wondering since the aircraft is
> already covered and flying is there some add-on type tab that I
> could affix to the rudder so that I don't have to constantly push
> on that right side. Cruise requires about 3-4 pounds or so of
> pressure. If someone has a photo or drawing, I would appreciate
> that too, as I am very visual. Thanks for any input.
> Will Lurcott
> Series V
> Lyc O-235
> Flagler Beach, FL
>
> www.matronics.com/contribution _-
> ===========================================================
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Cutting 2/12in. hole in Plexiglass doors |
Lexan is a polycarbonate. You can just bore through it with a hole saw.
Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Jones" <nahsikhs@elltel.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 10:20 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Cutting 2/12in. hole in Plexiglass doors
>
> I just ordered the 2" snap vents from aircraft spruce. I was planing to
> use a hole saw to cut the hole. My doors are lexan though. I'll try it
> on a scrap piece of lexan first. If that doesn't work I'll try the dremel
> sanding drum.
>
> --------
> Tom Jones
> Classic IV
> 503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
> Ellensburg, WA
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244454#244454
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
17:05:00
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| Subject: | Re: Installing Fuel Primer |
I'm not sure what the fitting is, but lately I've been making/
modifying primer lines on a 172 Cessna, and that engine uses a small
fitting with a round nose, which is silver soldered to the 1/8 fuel
lines. My flight instructor has been ordering all the parts from
McFairlane (sp?) so I don't know exactly the part numbers are, but
maybe a check at a local airport might turn up something. In the
meantime, I'll look further into it.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 654 hrs
Sensenich 62x46 Wood prop
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Status: flying
do not archive
On May 17, 2009, at 9:10 PM, wingnut wrote:
>
> Trying to get back in the air after 4 months of down time. I'd like
> to start by installing one of these:
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/acsprimer.php
>
> I can't find a fitting on the aircraft spruce web site that would
> mate this thing to the 1/8 id fuel primer line they sell. Also, I
> take it I'll need a 1/4 to 1/8 reducing Tee to tap into the feed
> from the tank but I can't find that either. What am I missing?
>
> --------
> Luis Rodriguez
> Model IV 1200
> Rotax 912UL
> Flying Weekly
> Laurens, SC (34A)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244441#244441
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: Installing Fuel Primer |
I have the original primer kit and instructions as supplied from Kit Fox wi
th the 1992 M4-1200 kit I was building, I decided not to install it at the
time of the build. If anyone is interested it is available for a modest pri
ce plus postage. Please contact me off list, Don
Don Stevenson 905-838-5283--- email shericom@rogers.com
--- On Mon, 5/18/09, wingnut <wingnut@spamarrest.com> wrote:
From: wingnut <wingnut@spamarrest.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Installing Fuel Primer
Received: Monday, May 18, 2009, 1:10 AM
Trying to get back in the air after 4 months of down time. I'd like to star
t by installing one of these:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/acsprimer.php
I can't find a fitting on the aircraft spruce web site that would mate this
thing to the 1/8 id fuel primer line they sell. Also, I take it I'll need
a 1/4 to 1/8 reducing Tee to tap into the feed from the tank but I can't fi
nd that either. What am I missing?
--------
Luis Rodriguez
Model IV 1200
Rotax 912UL
Flying Weekly
Laurens, SC (34A)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244441#244441
le, List Admin.
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| Subject: | Re: Charging System Theory - A few Questions |
Dave, Thanks for the super explanation of the electrical system ! It was
easy to understand and the electrical system is finally coming into focus !!
This has always been a problem area for me . I really appreciate all of the
replies from everyone ! It will help me analyze my own electrical problem
when it happens (at least a little bit)
Dick Maddux
Fox 4-1200
Pensacola,Fl
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See Yours in Just 2 Easy
Steps!
=Mayfooter51809NO115)
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Cutting 2/12in. hole in Plexiglass doors |
I used a hole saw. I went very slow and carefully and it worked fine. I
then finished the holes with about 4-600 grit paper. Both holes turned out
very nice with no cracks.
The ventilation increase is a must here in hot,steamy,muggy, Florida. I
took a picture of the location of the vent on the factory Apollo Fox which is
out of Tampa ,Fl. (at Sun and Fun) I figured they probably had the best
location for the vent figured out. They did.
Dick Maddux
Fox 4-1200
Pensacola,Fl
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See Yours in Just 2 Easy
Steps!
=Mayfooter51809NO115)
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Cutting 2/12in. hole in Plexiglass doors |
> I took a picture of the location of the vent on the factory Apollo Fox which
is out of Tampa ,Fl. (at Sun and Fun) I figured they probably had the best location
for the vent figured out. They did.
Dick, can you post the picture?
--------
Tom Jones
Classic IV
503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
Ellensburg, WA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244503#244503
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Stuck Oil Filter |
Speaking of a stuck oil filter,during my last oil change I had something
quite different. I knew they could be a bugger to get off so I fitted my oil
filter removal tool but noticed the filter moved before I even got the tool
on ! The filter then spun off in my hand with no effort at all ! That
would have been a mess in flight if it spun itself off ! Quite likely ,would
have ruined my day!
I tightened it down per the factory instructions when I did the prior oil
change. I had the instructions right in front of me and followed it to the
letter (including the engine run and filter tighten check) I told Dean at
Lockwood about this and he said I was one of two people he had heard of this
happening to.
Well once is enough so I have installed a large hose clamp around the
filter (lined with rubber-Adel clamp like) and have safety wired the clamp to
the engine so the filter won't move (also torque marked it)
Dick Maddux
Fox 4-1200
912 UL
Pensacola,Fl
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See Yours in Just 2 Easy
Steps!
=Mayfooter51809NO115)
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Stuck Oil Filter |
Darin,
I appreciate the heads-up on this. I have not been aware of the information
you mention. My thinking is that when removing the oil filter and the
magnetic plug, oil will drain and the oil draining out of the engine at
those points will result in something replacing the volumn of oil lost.
This - most likely air. I guess if you are really quick, the air introduced
will not be problematic.
Also, when I changed the oil, I would use a vacuum drain apparatus that
would suck the tank dry, I would then open the tank and wipe it out - this
would be on the suction side. There was always a lot of silvery sludge
there after one of the AVGas use periods. If I were to make a guess here,
it would be that Rotax found that with the engines that were merely drained
and refilled, like everything else out there, the no purging idea might be
good for business, i.e. less complexity.
I suppose with the new build, I will purge just like the old days.
What I was trying to suggest in my original post was essentially that
removeing the oil filter is not part of the purging process.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "darinh" <gerns25@netscape.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 9:40 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Stuck Oil Filter
>
>
> lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net wrote:
>> Chris,
>>
>> ...Regarding purging the oil system. This is usually done after an oil
>> change
>> to purge any air that might have been introduced into the system during
>> the
>> oil change especially if the filter is changed or the magnetic plug is
>> removed for inspection...
>>
>> ---
>
>
> Lowell,
>
> According to Rotax-Owner.com you do not need to purge the oil system after
> you do a simple oil change. Basically if you work on the suction side of
> the system, you will need to purge the system. Yes, the tank is on the
> suction side but as long as you don't remove the tank and drain the
> suction line, you don't need to purge it. I have attached a Technical
> Article from the site for anyones information. It does a good job of
> describing the oils system, the SI's that have been put out by Rotax and
> examples of when oil purging is required. Take it for what it is worth
> but this is what they have to say about purging and oil changes. I
> personally have purged my system after each oil change but to be quite
> honest, I have never had a situation where the lifters had air in the
> either before or after the oil change.
>
> --------
> Darin Hawkes
> Series 7
> 914 Turbo
> Kaysville, Utah
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244473#244473
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/rotax_9_series_oil_change_129.pdf
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: rudder trim tab |
Will, I did similar to Lowell with similar results. I place it lower on the rudder
at the point of maximum bend so that I could use the geometry of the rudder
to provide rigidity. One thing I have learned on the Hatz is that the rudder
is neutral when aligned with the stabilizer offset, not with the centerline
of the aircraft
John Kerr
----- Original Message -----
From: Lowell Fitt
Sent: Mon, 18 May 2009 02:38:59 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: rudder trim tab
Will,
I have been told by what I consider to be reliable sources that the engine
mounts designed for the Kitfox engines has no thrust offset - zero offset,
horizontal or vertical so right rudder is essentially built into the design.
I went through this for the first five years of flight on my Model IV and
had difficulty even considering a trim tab simply because it would look like
a bandage. I finally did the deed and it made a world of difference, not
only in cruise, but in the pattern as well. I hated right traffic patterns
because I had real problems coordinating the right rudder pedal with a right
turn. Everything just improved in bunches.
My airplane is gone, but the trim tab was about six inches top to bottom and
extended aft about an inch and a half or so. Overall it was triangular in
shape with a trimmed base so it riveted to the trailing edge and the rib
forward to prevent the trailing edge rivets from working as I adjusted it.
My ribs were of the Speedster style with an airfoil on the horizontal so
what I did there is drill through the rib and using a 4-40 blind nut from a
hobby store on one side and a screw of trimmed length inserted through the
tab. If you don't have the ribs in the rudder, I suppose you could go
through the fabric a bit oversizes and then use a tubular spacer of the
right length to accommodate the space between the 3/8" rib and the fabric,
though that might not be necessary that far back. I couldn't find any clear
photos, so made a drawing. As I recall, I bent the edges of the triangular
portion inward a little bit to create a firm contact with the fabric to
prevent air getting under and possibly lifting the tab.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "william lurcott"
Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 11:56 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: rudder trim tab
Greetings,
I have been reading the list here for a while, and want to take the
opportunity to say thanks to all of you. I have a Series V with a Lycoming
O-235 which is a great source of fun and unending lessons for me. There is
one issue that I have, and that is that I must always input right rudder. I
expect that at higher power settings, but at cruise? Anyway, I was wondering
since the aircraft is already covered and flying is there some add-on type
tab that I could affix to the rudder so that I don't have to constantly push
on that right side. Cruise requires about 3-4 pounds or so of pressure. If
someone has a photo or drawing, I would appreciate that too, as I am very
visual. Thanks for any input.
Will Lurcott
Series V
Lyc O-235
Flagler Beach, FL
Message 11
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This is my first try. Not much. Just a good hands off flying classic 4.
http://vimeo.com/4708686?pg=transcoded_embed&sec=4708686
--------
Tom Jones
Classic IV
503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
Ellensburg, WA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244529#244529
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Stuck Oil Filter |
Before I ever started my Jabiru, I used structural adhesive to attach
a 4-leaf clover-type device to the top of the filter like the big
boys do, and safety wired it. Since then, the filters have been so
well secured, that I haven't bothered with any kind of securing other
than to make sure that I give it one turn beyond gasket contact, per
the Baldwin filter B33 instructions....so far, so good, with around
20-24 filter changes.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 655.4 hrs
Sensenich 62x46 Wood prop
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Status: flying
On May 18, 2009, at 9:13 AM, Catz631@aol.com wrote:
> Speaking of a stuck oil filter,during my last oil change I had
> something quite different. I knew they could be a bugger to get off
> so I fitted my oil filter removal tool but noticed the filter moved
> before I even got the tool on ! The filter then spun off in my hand
> with no effort at all ! That would have been a mess in flight if it
> spun itself off ! Quite likely ,would have ruined my day!
> I tightened it down per the factory instructions when I did the
> prior oil change. I had the instructions right in front of me and
> followed it to the letter (including the engine run and filter
> tighten check) I told Dean at Lockwood about this and he said I was
> one of two people he had heard of this happening to.
> Well once is enough so I have installed a large hose clamp around
> the filter (lined with rubber-Adel clamp like) and have safety
> wired the clamp to the engine so the filter won't move (also torque
> marked it)
>
> Dick Maddux
> Fox
> 4-1200
> 912 UL
>
> Pensacola,Fl
>
>
> A Good Credit Score is 70001367178/aol?redir=http://
> www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=115%
> 26bcd=Mayfooter51809NO115>See Yours in Just 2 Easy Steps!
> www.matronics.com/contribution _-
> ===========================================================
Message 13
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Tom
For a first try ---- not bad. Great scenery. Nice simple but workable
instrument panel.
Thanks
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Ted Palamarek
Edmonton, Ab
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Jones
Sent: Monday, May 18, 2009 11:16 AM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Video test
This is my first try. Not much. Just a good hands off flying classic 4.
http://vimeo.com/4708686?pg=transcoded_embed&sec=4708686
--------
Tom Jones
Classic IV
503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
Ellensburg, WA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244529#244529
Message 14
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Heres a take off at about 980 pounds gross weight.
http://www.vimeo.com/4711863
--------
Tom Jones
Classic IV
503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp
Ellensburg, WA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244537#244537
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: rudder trim tab |
Hello Will,
My Ship is not yet flying but I wanted to chime in on this thread. I have
always believed that an airplane should be built to fly straight and level
first. My model building days (and my aeronautical engineer father)
taught me to pay particular attention to true alignment and close to perfect
airfoils in all aspects of building. A banana shaped fuselage is a curse one
never will overcome. A warped wing will be more and more of a liability
as the ship picks up speed in it's death spiral to mother earth.
With a straight and true airframe accomplished first, the builder next
tackles an engine mount. The engine's propeller will cause a torque turn in
the opposite direction of the prop rotation. A shim in the engine mount is
the best way to fix the problem in my book. I don't like the idea of
having to change more than a little pitch trim when the engine quits. An
airplane should glide straight in my opinion. If the engine quits, your hands
are already full and I don't want to have to be standing on some rudder too,
trying to overcome my trim tab.
Actually, isn't a washer or two under the left engine mount to firewall
points a heck of a lot easier than fabricating a trim tab? It's a lot less
ugly!
OK, I apologize, John, Lowell, Lynn, your trim tabs are beautiful but,
isn't a simple washer for a little right thrust a solution to the point?
If the airplane fly's straight and true naturally and as you add power the
right thrust becomes more and more effective to counteract the very torque
turn you are trying to kill in the first place. Isn't this a solution
near to God and the birds?
Dang propellers anyway!
John
John P. Marzluf
Columbus, Ohio
Outback (out back in the garage)
In a message dated 5/17/2009 3:03:29 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
lurcottstudios@yahoo.com writes:
Greetings,
I have been reading the list here for a while, and want to take the
opportunity to say thanks to all of you. I have a Series V with a Lycoming O-235
which is a great source of fun and unending lessons for me. There is one
issue that I have, and that is that I must always input right rudder. I
expect that at higher power settings, but at cruise? Anyway, I was wondering
since the aircraft is already covered and flying is there some add-on type
tab that I could affix to the rudder so that I don't have to constantly push
on that right side. Cruise requires about 3-4 pounds or so of pressure. If
someone has a photo or drawing, I would appreciate that too, as I am very
visual. Thanks for any input.
Will Lurcott
Series V
Lyc O-235
Flagler Beach, FL
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List)
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See Yours in Just 2 Easy
Steps!
=Mayfooter51809NO115)
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: rudder trim tab |
Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't one reason to use the rudder trim
to counteract, for instance, a crosswind while flying, thus removing
the necessity to hold a little rudder to keep the ball centered? At
least that's what I thought I was doing in building a cockpit-
controlled trim tab.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 655.4 hrs
Sensenich 62x46 Wood prop
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Status: flying
On May 18, 2009, at 6:51 PM, KITFOXZ@aol.com wrote:
> Hello Will,
>
> My Ship is not yet flying but I wanted to chime in on this thread.
> I have always believed that an airplane should be built to fly
> straight and level first. My model building days (and my
> aeronautical engineer father) taught me to pay particular
> attention to true alignment and close to perfect airfoils in all
> aspects of building. A banana shaped fuselage is a curse one never
> will overcome. A warped wing will be more and more of a liability
> as the ship picks up speed in it's death spiral to mother earth.
>
> With a straight and true airframe accomplished first, the builder
> next tackles an engine mount. The engine's propeller will cause a
> torque turn in the opposite direction of the prop rotation. A shim
> in the engine mount is the best way to fix the problem in my book.
> I don't like the idea of having to change more than a little pitch
> trim when the engine quits. An airplane should glide straight in
> my opinion. If the engine quits, your hands are already full and I
> don't want to have to be standing on some rudder too, trying to
> overcome my trim tab.
>
> Actually, isn't a washer or two under the left engine mount to
> firewall points a heck of a lot easier than fabricating a trim
> tab? It's a lot less ugly!
>
> OK, I apologize, John, Lowell, Lynn, your trim tabs are beautiful
> but, isn't a simple washer for a little right thrust a solution to
> the point?
>
> If the airplane fly's straight and true naturally and as you add
> power the right thrust becomes more and more effective to
> counteract the very torque turn you are trying to kill in the first
> place. Isn't this a solution near to God and the birds?
>
> Dang propellers anyway!
>
> John
> John P. Marzluf
> Columbus, Ohio
> Outback (out back in the garage)
>
>
> In a message dated 5/17/2009 3:03:29 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> lurcottstudios@yahoo.com writes:
> Greetings,
> I have been reading the list here for a while, and want to take the
> opportunity to say thanks to all of you. I have a Series V with a
> Lycoming O-235 which is a great source of fun and unending lessons
> for me. There is one issue that I have, and that is that I must
> always input right rudder. I expect that at higher power settings,
> but at cruise? Anyway, I was wondering since the aircraft is
> already covered and flying is there some add-on type tab that I
> could affix to the rudder so that I don't have to constantly push
> on that right side. Cruise requires about 3-4 pounds or so of
> pressure. If someone has a photo or drawing, I would appreciate
> that too, as I am very visual. Thanks for any input.
> Will Lurcott
> Series V
> Lyc O-235
> Flagler Beach, FL
>
> ==================================== href="http://www.matronics.com/
> Navigator?Kitfox-List">http://
> www.matron====================================
> ms.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
> ==================================== tp://www.matronics.com/
> contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ===================================
>
> A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See Yours in Just 2 Easy Steps!
> www.matronics.com/contribution _-
> ===========================================================
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| Subject: | Re: rudder trim tab |
John,
I agree with you entirely. That is why I resisted the trim tab for so long.
The washer idea didn't occur to me as I was a rank novice in the building
and early flying stages. The trim tab just finally made sense and I did it
and never regretted it. Since then, however, I have been thinking quite a
bit about the whole issue. I am thinking of building my own engine mount
with the offsets built into it, and I have been tinkering with a cockpit
adustable rudder trim as I doubt a washer or two or an offset will
completely negate any yaw tendency at all power settings.
I guess this is as good a time as any to present my rudder trim system. I
have a servo in the rudder that will warp the two bottom ribs giving a
different cambered surface on one side or the other. The ribs are tied
together so I will get an overcamber and undercamber on a desired side, or a
symmetric surface on both sides controllable with a switch in the cockpit.
Of course it has yet to fly, but it is something I have been thinking about
long before the opportunity to build again came up.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: <KITFOXZ@aol.com>
Sent: Monday, May 18, 2009 3:51 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: rudder trim tab
> Hello Will,
>
> My Ship is not yet flying but I wanted to chime in on this thread. I
> have
> always believed that an airplane should be built to fly straight and
> level
> first. My model building days (and my aeronautical engineer father)
> taught me to pay particular attention to true alignment and close to
> perfect
> airfoils in all aspects of building. A banana shaped fuselage is a curse
> one
> never will overcome. A warped wing will be more and more of a liability
> as the ship picks up speed in it's death spiral to mother earth.
>
> With a straight and true airframe accomplished first, the builder next
> tackles an engine mount. The engine's propeller will cause a torque turn
> in
> the opposite direction of the prop rotation. A shim in the engine mount
> is
> the best way to fix the problem in my book. I don't like the idea of
> having to change more than a little pitch trim when the engine quits. An
> airplane should glide straight in my opinion. If the engine quits, your
> hands
> are already full and I don't want to have to be standing on some rudder
> too,
> trying to overcome my trim tab.
>
> Actually, isn't a washer or two under the left engine mount to firewall
> points a heck of a lot easier than fabricating a trim tab? It's a lot
> less
> ugly!
>
> OK, I apologize, John, Lowell, Lynn, your trim tabs are beautiful but,
> isn't a simple washer for a little right thrust a solution to the point?
>
> If the airplane fly's straight and true naturally and as you add power
> the
> right thrust becomes more and more effective to counteract the very
> torque
> turn you are trying to kill in the first place. Isn't this a solution
> near to God and the birds?
>
> Dang propellers anyway!
>
> John
> John P. Marzluf
> Columbus, Ohio
> Outback (out back in the garage)
>
>
> In a message dated 5/17/2009 3:03:29 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> lurcottstudios@yahoo.com writes:
>
> Greetings,
> I have been reading the list here for a while, and want to take the
> opportunity to say thanks to all of you. I have a Series V with a
> Lycoming O-235
> which is a great source of fun and unending lessons for me. There is one
> issue that I have, and that is that I must always input right rudder. I
> expect that at higher power settings, but at cruise? Anyway, I was
> wondering
> since the aircraft is already covered and flying is there some add-on
> type
> tab that I could affix to the rudder so that I don't have to constantly
> push
> on that right side. Cruise requires about 3-4 pounds or so of pressure.
> If
> someone has a photo or drawing, I would appreciate that too, as I am very
> visual. Thanks for any input.
> Will Lurcott
> Series V
> Lyc O-235
> Flagler Beach, FL
>
>
> (http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List)
> (http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
>
>
> **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See Yours in Just 2
> Easy
> Steps!
> =Mayfooter51809NO115)
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Stuck Oil Filter |
Lowell - I'm happy to report that the pipe wrench suggestion worked like a
charm! In less than a minute on my way out the door for work this morning
the filter was successfully removed - a pleasant alternative to the hour
plus spent last night trying to mangle it off...
The reason I was trying to remove it was to follow the instructions in the
HomebuiltHelp video with regards to first start procedures. The video
advises adding three quarts of oil to the tank then pulling the prop through
numerous rotations while adding oil to oil line marked "out" via a funnel
until oil discharges from the oil filter port (with the filter off) to purge
air from the oil system.
In a message dated 5/18/2009 11:15:30 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
lcfitt@sbcglobal.net writes:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@sbcglobal.net>
Darin,
I appreciate the heads-up on this. I have not been aware of the
information
you mention. My thinking is that when removing the oil filter and the
magnetic plug, oil will drain and the oil draining out of the engine at
those points will result in something replacing the volumn of oil lost.
This - most likely air. I guess if you are really quick, the air
introduced
will not be problematic.
Also, when I changed the oil, I would use a vacuum drain apparatus that
would suck the tank dry, I would then open the tank and wipe it out - this
would be on the suction side. There was always a lot of silvery sludge
there after one of the AVGas use periods. If I were to make a guess here,
it would be that Rotax found that with the engines that were merely
drained
and refilled, like everything else out there, the no purging idea might be
good for business, i.e. less complexity.
I suppose with the new build, I will purge just like the old days.
What I was trying to suggest in my original post was essentially that
removeing the oil filter is not part of the purging process.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "darinh" <gerns25@netscape.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 9:40 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re: Stuck Oil Filter
>
>
> lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net wrote:
>> Chris,
>>
>> ...Regarding purging the oil system. This is usually done after an oil
>> change
>> to purge any air that might have been introduced into the system during
>> the
>> oil change especially if the filter is changed or the magnetic plug is
>> removed for inspection...
>>
>> ---
>
>
> Lowell,
>
> According to Rotax-Owner.com you do not need to purge the oil system
after
> you do a simple oil change. Basically if you work on the suction side
of
> the system, you will need to purge the system. Yes, the tank is on the
> suction side but as long as you don't remove the tank and drain the
> suction line, you don't need to purge it. I have attached a Technical
> Article from the site for anyones information. It does a good job of
> describing the oils system, the SI's that have been put out by Rotax and
> examples of when oil purging is required. Take it for what it is worth
> but this is what they have to say about purging and oil changes. I
> personally have purged my system after each oil change but to be quite
> honest, I have never had a situation where the lifters had air in the
> either before or after the oil change.
>
> --------
> Darin Hawkes
> Series 7
> 914 Turbo
> Kaysville, Utah
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244473#244473
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/rotax_9_series_oil_change_129.pdf
>
>
>
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See Yours in Just 2 Easy
Steps!
=Mayfooter51809NO115)
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: rudder trim tab |
There is nothing wrong with trim tabs. All sorts of much more advanced and high
performance aircraft use trim tabs. Johns washer idea is a good one, but I
doubt it will be enough, and even when you get close to correct, you will still
probably get yaw changes with power, which is exactly why many manufactured
aircraft have rudder trim. Even modern jet airliners have rudder trim... The
theory of building a perfectly straight airplane is good and something to strive
for, but the reality is that you will still probably need a trim tab in the
end. An electric adjustable rudder tab is even better...
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244575#244575
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Cutting 2/12in. hole in Plexiglass doors |
I also used a hole saw on mine. But=2C I did it flat before the plexi was a
ttached. I also used a heat gun to heat the plexi first. I am sorry I can't
remember what degree I heated to and checked with a laser thermometer=2C m
aybe 150-160 degrees F. After you sand the edge=2C you can use a propane to
rch on the edge that gives you an excellent edge. Just practice on a scrap
piece 1st to get your temps right..
Pat Reilly
Mod 3 582 Rebuild
Rockford=2C IL
From: Catz631@aol.com
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Cutting 2/12in. hole in Plexiglass doors
I used a hole saw. I went very slow and carefully and it worked fine. I t
hen finished the holes with about 4-600 grit paper. Both holes turned out
very nice with no cracks.
The ventilation increase is a must here in hot=2Csteamy=2Cmuggy=2C Florida
. I took a picture of the location of the vent on the factory Apollo Fox wh
ich is out of Tampa =2CFl. (at Sun and Fun) I figured they probably had the
best location for the vent figured out. They did.
Dick Maddux
Fox 4-1200
Pensacola=2CFl
A Good Credit Score is 70001367178/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.
com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=115%26bcd=Mayfooter51809NO115>
See Yours in Just 2 Easy Steps!
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | 912S Choke Return Springs |
I'm getting ready for the first start on a 912S and notice that the choke
return springs aren't strong enough to return the choke levers to the "off"
position following release of the of the choke pull ring. Has anyone
replaced the stock springs with ones that are a bit stronger? If so, where can
I find them? The throttle return springs look like they might work but
haven't tried them yet on the choke levers.
Chris
Kitfox 7 912S
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See Yours in Just 2 Easy
Steps!
=Mayfooter51809NO115)
Message 22
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| Subject: | Kitfox - how high have you gone ? |
Took mine to 15k today and it was still going. Maybe I take a bottle next time
and see higher . non turbo 582 whoa !!
I created one here http://rotaxaircraft.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=122
Dave
15,143 my record on that 582 --
Lets see who got what .
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
http://www.cfisher.com/
Awesome *New Forum *
http://rotaxaircraft.com/forum/
Realtime Kitfox movies to separate the internet chatter from the truth
http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=kitfoxflyer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244579#244579
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: rudder trim tab |
Lynn, Lowell and Mike, others lurking,
I didn't mean to condemn trim tabs and especially cockpit controlled trim
tabs. The point I was hoping to make is that I feel the emphasis should be
on building a good airframe that is straight and true. I don't want to
have a bird that is all bent up and those imperfections compensated for with
hairy items hanging off of every control surface.
These are harsh sounding words I know. I am just trying to make the point
with exaggerations. Engine torque is proportional to power setting and so
is the resultant yaw. I want to cancel it immediately at it's source with
engine thrust line offset. Washers, shims, another engine mount perhaps,
are the cleaner ways to make an airplane fly straight. What I want to
accomplish is a glide that is straight and true first and then do what has to
be done to make the engine pull it in as straight of a path as can be done
even with the imperfections of that rotating, torque inducing, P factor
producing, wind mill out in front.
Of course a cockpit controlled trim tab is used for cross wind trim and
elevator trim is used for load CG variations. But, to permanently bend a
control surface to make up for a faulty thrust line is wrong I feel. If your
car has a front end alignment problem, do you alter the rear axle alignment
to make it go down the road straight? --Albeit in a crab angle?
I love this forum because there are so many points of view that can get
aired. Dead horses are beaten. Feelings are even stepped on but, when it
all is tallied up some do and don't are discovered. Some best practices are
established and airplanes end up flying.
Got to turn in for the night.
John
John P. Marzluf
Columbus, Ohio
Outback (out back in the garage)
In a message dated 5/18/2009 9:44:39 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
orcabonita@hotmail.com writes:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "JetPilot" <orcabonita@hotmail.com>
There is nothing wrong with trim tabs. All sorts of much more advanced
and high performance aircraft use trim tabs. Johns washer idea is a good
one, but I doubt it will be enough, and even when you get close to correct,
you will still probably get yaw changes with power, which is exactly why
many manufactured aircraft have rudder trim. Even modern jet airliners have
rudder trim... The theory of building a perfectly straight airplane is good
and something to strive for, but the reality is that you will still
probably need a trim tab in the end. An electric adjustable rudder tab is even
better...
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you
could have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244575#244575
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See Yours in Just 2 Easy
Steps!
=Mayfooter51809NO115)
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: Kitfox - how high have you gone ? |
My Model IV Speedster with a 912ul (80 hp) goes right up to 18k--no problem. Also
helps that I start at 5600 ft. and I'm used to the altitude.
Stan Specht
Lakewood , CO
-----Original Message-----
From: dave <dave@cfisher.com>
Sent: Mon, 18 May 2009 8:11 pm
Subject: Kitfox-List: Kitfox - how high have you gone ?
Took mine to 15k today and it was still going. Maybe I take a bottle next time
and see higher . non turbo 582 whoa !!
I created one here http://rotaxaircraft.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=122
Dave
15,143 my record on that 582 --
Lets see who got what .
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
http://www.cfisher.com/
Awesome *New Forum *
http://rotaxaircraft.com/forum/
Realtime Kitfox movies to separate the internet chatter from the truth
http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=kitfoxflyer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244579#244579
Message 25
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| Subject: | Runaway plane - serious mishap - throttle cable |
My Model IV - 1200 Rotax 912UL suffered major wing and prop damage today after
striking the corner and face of a concrete hangar due to a throttle cable malfunction.
After a normal start this morning at my own hangar, I taxied across the airport
(CCR) to the local avionics FBO for some radio and GPS work. Following a 15 minute
inspection of the proposed panel changes, the techs asked me to move the
plane to an adjacent hangar. I started the engine, which roared to life at full
throttle (6000 rpm?) in a heartbeat, and the plane snapped forward into a circular
move even though I was firm on the brakes. (It swung in a circle because
I had some left rudder into it, which was lucky because I had other aircraft
parked in front of me on the ramp.)
Thinking that somehow the throttle had been pushed in (which it hadn't because
I had double-checked it for an idle setting before cranking the starter), I pulled
back on the throttle and it came out of its housing and into my hand. Three
seconds later, the plane hit the building, caving in the right wing and shearing
the IVO composite prop. Turning off the magnetos was too late.
There was no fire and I was not injured, and there was plenty of help around to
handle the leaking gasoline from the wing tank. But the wing, flaperon, and prop
are finished. The balance of the plane, interestingly enough, was undamaged.
The steel frame will have to be checked for squareness but the wind spar and
wood absorbed the impact.
The problem with the throttle is as follows:
My plane, built in 1994, has the bellcrank-style throttle control, which divides
the forward and reverse motion of the throttle handle between the two carbs.
The throttle handle is attached to the bellcrank by a stiff steel 1/16" rod that
runs from the backend of the throttle handle to a hole in the bellcrank mechanism
where it is secured by a set screw retainer.
What happened in my case was that - unknown to me - the rod was completely straight
and ran through the retainer hole with neither a secondary safety retainer
on the other side of the hole nor a 90+ degree bend in the rod on the other
side of the hole to keep the rod from being pulled out in the event the primary
retainer set screw let loose.
So this morning the (single) set screw let go, the throttles on the carbs went
to their default full-power position (WOT), and when I pulled back on the handle,
the steel rod slid out of its bellcrank retainer and the whole throttle handle
ended up in my hand.
An important suggestion to any of the owners out there who have this type of throttle
control:
- Immediately check your rod-to-bellcrank retention screw for tightness.
- Get a secondary retainer on the rod.
- Put a bend into the rod after the secondary retainer to allow the rod to hook
the bellcrank in case of retainer failure.
- Purchase the Kitfox Aircraft replacement throttle cable ($219) that does not
use the bellcrank at all - it is a twin-cable style control of a completely different
design.
Hope this has been complete enough - maybe there's been something AD-related already
published or a prior thread. It has been a long hard day but I don't want
any members of the community to not know about the incident in case their throttle
equipment is the same as mine.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244594#244594
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: rudder trim tab |
Lynn,
you do not compensate for crosswind with the trim tab, you move along with
the mass of air (steady air) at the same speed as it blows, if you don't go
directly in to the wind or with the wind, you have to compensate for the
drift over ground by alter your course.
The rudder compensate for propeller effect and different aileron drag from
left side to right side when airplane is unbalanced in weight distribution
(fuel or people)
The trim tab just take the load off the controls.
Jan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lynn Matteson" <lynnmatt@jps.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2009 2:35 AM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: rudder trim tab
>
> Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't one reason to use the rudder trim to
> counteract, for instance, a crosswind while flying, thus removing the
> necessity to hold a little rudder to keep the ball centered? At least
> that's what I thought I was doing in building a cockpit- controlled trim
> tab.
>
> Lynn Matteson
> Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
> Jabiru 2200, #2062, 655.4 hrs
> Sensenich 62x46 Wood prop
> Electroair direct-fire ignition system
> Status: flying
>
>
> On May 18, 2009, at 6:51 PM, KITFOXZ@aol.com wrote:
>
>> Hello Will,
>>
>> My Ship is not yet flying but I wanted to chime in on this thread. I
>> have always believed that an airplane should be built to fly straight
>> and level first. My model building days (and my aeronautical engineer
>> father) taught me to pay particular attention to true alignment and
>> close to perfect airfoils in all aspects of building. A banana shaped
>> fuselage is a curse one never will overcome. A warped wing will be more
>> and more of a liability as the ship picks up speed in it's death spiral
>> to mother earth.
>>
>> With a straight and true airframe accomplished first, the builder next
>> tackles an engine mount. The engine's propeller will cause a torque
>> turn in the opposite direction of the prop rotation. A shim in the
>> engine mount is the best way to fix the problem in my book. I don't
>> like the idea of having to change more than a little pitch trim when the
>> engine quits. An airplane should glide straight in my opinion. If the
>> engine quits, your hands are already full and I don't want to have to be
>> standing on some rudder too, trying to overcome my trim tab.
>>
>> Actually, isn't a washer or two under the left engine mount to firewall
>> points a heck of a lot easier than fabricating a trim tab? It's a lot
>> less ugly!
>>
>> OK, I apologize, John, Lowell, Lynn, your trim tabs are beautiful but,
>> isn't a simple washer for a little right thrust a solution to the point?
>>
>> If the airplane fly's straight and true naturally and as you add power
>> the right thrust becomes more and more effective to counteract the very
>> torque turn you are trying to kill in the first place. Isn't this a
>> solution near to God and the birds?
>>
>> Dang propellers anyway!
>>
>> John
>> John P. Marzluf
>> Columbus, Ohio
>> Outback (out back in the garage)
>>
>>
>> In a message dated 5/17/2009 3:03:29 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
>> lurcottstudios@yahoo.com writes:
>> Greetings,
>> I have been reading the list here for a while, and want to take the
>> opportunity to say thanks to all of you. I have a Series V with a
>> Lycoming O-235 which is a great source of fun and unending lessons for
>> me. There is one issue that I have, and that is that I must always input
>> right rudder. I expect that at higher power settings, but at cruise?
>> Anyway, I was wondering since the aircraft is already covered and flying
>> is there some add-on type tab that I could affix to the rudder so that I
>> don't have to constantly push on that right side. Cruise requires about
>> 3-4 pounds or so of pressure. If someone has a photo or drawing, I would
>> appreciate that too, as I am very visual. Thanks for any input.
>> Will Lurcott
>> Series V
>> Lyc O-235
>> Flagler Beach, FL
>>
>> ==================================== href="http://www.matronics.com/
>> Navigator?Kitfox-List">http://
>> www.matron====================================
>> ms.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==================================== tp://www.matronics.com/
>> contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ===================================
>>
>> A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See Yours in Just 2 Easy Steps!
>> www.matronics.com/contribution _-
>> ===========================================================
>
>
> __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus
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