Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 02:15 AM - Landing on one wheel (Michel)
     2. 02:59 AM - Re: Landing on one wheel (Dave)
     3. 09:40 AM - Re: Landing on one wheel (Michael Laundy)
     4. 10:02 AM - Re: Landing on one wheel (Jos=C3=A9_M._Toro)
     5. 01:12 PM - Re: header tank does not stay full - installing a fitting at the top of the wing tank (Sacha)
     6. 05:54 PM - Re: header tank does not stay full - installing a fitting at the top of the wing tank (Lloyd & Lorrie Cudnohufsky)
     7. 07:53 PM - Re: header tank does not stay full - installing a fitting at the top of the wing tank (Sacha)
     8. 08:31 PM - Re: header tank does not stay full - installing a fitting at the top of the wing tank (Patrick Reilly)
     9. 09:50 PM - Re: header tank does not stay full - installing a fitting at the top of the wing tank (Sacha)
    10. 10:03 PM - Re: header tank does not stay full - installing a fitting at the top of the wing tank (Guy Buchanan)
 
 
 
Message 1
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Landing on one wheel | 
      
      
      Hello guys,
      My son, who has not been flying our Kitfox 3 for two years, need an instructor
      check-up to keep his license. I asked the instructor what my son needed to train
      for before the check-up.
      
      He answered: "Climbing 500 ft in 360 degrees turn, then the opposite, then landing
      on 3 points, 2 points and one wheel."
      
      "One wheel?" Yes, it is necessary if landing in crosswind, doing a side slip.
      
      Okay, I do a lot of side slips, to get the right speed on final since I never use
      my flaperons. But, touching the ground side slipping and on one wheel is ...
      awkward when the wind is not from the side!
      
      But he insists that we do that, as a training. Okay, I tried a couple of times
      but when landing with a head wind, side slipping on one wheel, there is a lateral
      pull on the wheel and I don't like it!
      
      I don't like it because I still have the old fashion gear made of steel pipes and
      I am afraid I might bend something. Of course, I could try to do it when there
      is a real side wind so that I actually compensate the wind drift with the
      side displacement, which is the intention. But where I live, the prevailing winds
      are very much in the direction of the runway and I just can't match the very
      seldom crosswind with my son's training.
      
      My question then is: Has any of you had problems with the original gear, landing
      on one wheel? I know of a Kitfox that has hit a taxiway asphalt edge with his
      right hand wheel and the tube under the seat, the one the bungee is turned around,
      was bended. I don't want to get the same! Will I run a risk of it?
      
      Cheers,
      Michel
      
      --------
      Kitfox 3 - Jabiru 2200
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409750#409750
      
      
Message 2
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Landing on one wheel | 
      
      
      Michel, sounds like you have a great instructor!
      
      Here is one wheel landing   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5j7aBw90n9U  at 
      just over  1 min into this video.
      
      >>> I don't like it because I still have the old fashion gear made of steel 
      >>> pipes and I am afraid I might bend something<<<
      
      Absolute nonsense........... that old fashion gear is 4140  CrMo - Very 
      strong gear -
      When I read of these mishaps and the gear gets blamed -it might be the pilot 
      thats should be for landing so hard they bend  the gear.
      I have never bent one and I have had some very rough landing in very rough 
      terrain. Mind you I do not land sideways or drop it in 30 feet from the 
      ground.
      Some of thes damages are hard to fathom...........
      
      Keep up the good work and get your son flying.........
      
      
      Cheers
      
      Dave
      
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "Michel" <michel@online.no>
      Sent: Thursday, October 03, 2013 5:15 AM
      Subject: Kitfox-List: Landing on one wheel
      
      
      >
      > Hello guys,
      > My son, who has not been flying our Kitfox 3 for two years, need an 
      > instructor check-up to keep his license. I asked the instructor what my 
      > son needed to train for before the check-up.
      >
      > He answered: "Climbing 500 ft in 360 degrees turn, then the opposite, then 
      > landing on 3 points, 2 points and one wheel."
      >
      > "One wheel?" Yes, it is necessary if landing in crosswind, doing a side 
      > slip.
      >
      > Okay, I do a lot of side slips, to get the right speed on final since I 
      > never use my flaperons. But, touching the ground side slipping and on one 
      > wheel is ... awkward when the wind is not from the side!
      >
      > But he insists that we do that, as a training. Okay, I tried a couple of 
      > times but when landing with a head wind, side slipping on one wheel, there 
      > is a lateral pull on the wheel and I don't like it!
      >
      > I don't like it because I still have the old fashion gear made of steel 
      > pipes and I am afraid I might bend something. Of course, I could try to do 
      > it when there is a real side wind so that I actually compensate the wind 
      > drift with the side displacement, which is the intention. But where I 
      > live, the prevailing winds are very much in the direction of the runway 
      > and I just can't match the very seldom crosswind with my son's training.
      >
      > My question then is: Has any of you had problems with the original gear, 
      > landing on one wheel? I know of a Kitfox that has hit a taxiway asphalt 
      > edge with his right hand wheel and the tube under the seat, the one the 
      > bungee is turned around, was bended. I don't want to get the same! Will I 
      > run a risk of it?
      >
      > Cheers,
      > Michel
      >
      > --------
      > Kitfox 3 - Jabiru 2200
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409750#409750
      >
      >
      > 
      
      
Message 3
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Landing on one wheel | 
      
      Michael,=0A-=0AI am with you on this one, when I-learned to fly 50 year
      s ago on Chipmunks as-a trainee RAF pilot, we were taught- the"crab" te
      chnique for landing in a cross winds.- Later as an RAF flying instructor 
      the "crab" crosswind landing technique was the one we taught our students o
      n the Jet Provost.- I have used that technique ever since when flying- 
      straight wing aircraft.- The only time I used side slipping for- crossw
      ind- landings was when flying swept wing airliners (Boeing 767), as with 
      them "kicking "off drift using a "crab"- tchnique can give an unacceptabl
      e rate of roll away from the crosswind, and- heavy aircraft are sluggish 
      to react to control inputs at low speed due to their high inertia. They do 
      of course have multi wheel bogies to land on!=0A-=0AIn my opinion there a
      re hazards with the Kitfox to land side slipping on one wheel.- Its too e
      asy to get a high rate of descent in the slide slip and I find on my KF3 I 
      run out of up elevator at slow speed, -the two combined could easily give
       a hard landing, and on one wheel that could break something.=0A-=0AThe s
      trip I use is frequently out of wind and I-sometimes have to land with cr
      osswinds up to 15 mph.- In strong crosswinds-I make my approach at 60mp
      h -reducing to around 50mph in the flare and as I run out of up elevator 
      and sense the aircraft starting to sink I give a qick burst of power to add
       a bit of slipstream effect over the rudder and elevators and kick the drif
      t off with rudder, it works well for me!- =0A-=0AMike=0AKitfox 3 Rotax 
      582=0ACornwall UK=0A-=0A-=0A=0A=0A>________________________________=0A>
      From: Michel <michel@online.no>=0A>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com =0A>Sent: 
      Thursday, 3 October 2013, 2:15=0A>Subject: Kitfox-List: Landing on one whee
      =0A>=0A>Hello guys,=0A>My son, who has not been flying our Kitfox 3 for two
       years, need an instructor check-up to keep his license. I asked the instru
      ctor what my son needed to train for before the check-up.=0A>=0A>He answere
      d: "Climbing 500 ft in 360 degrees turn, then the opposite, then landing on
       3 points, 2 points and one wheel."=0A>=0A>"One wheel?" Yes, it is necessar
      y if landing in crosswind, doing a side slip.=0A>=0A>Okay, I do a lot of si
      de slips, to get the right speed on final since I never use my flaperons. B
      ut, touching the ground side slipping and on one wheel is ... awkward when 
      the wind is not from the side!=0A>=0A>But he insists that we do that, as a 
      training. Okay, I tried a couple of times but when landing with a head wind
      , side slipping on one wheel, there is a lateral pull on the wheel and I do
      n't like it!=0A>=0A>I don't like it because I still have the old fashion ge
      ar made of steel pipes and I am afraid I might bend something. Of course, I
       could try to do it when there is a real side wind so that I actually compe
      nsate the wind drift with the side displacement, which is the intention. Bu
      t where I live, the prevailing winds are very much in the direction of the 
      runway and I just can't match the very seldom crosswind with my son's train
      ing.=0A>=0A>My question then is: Has any of you had problems with the origi
      nal gear, landing on one wheel? I know of a Kitfox that has hit a taxiway a
      sphalt edge with his right hand wheel and the tube under the seat, the one 
      the bungee is turned around, was bended. I don't want to get the same! Will
       I run a risk of it?=0A>=0A>Cheers,=0A>Michel=0A>=0A>--------=0A>Kitfox 3 -
       Jabiru 2200=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>Read this topic online here:=0A>=0A>http://
      forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409750#409750=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A
      =========================0A
      =========================0A
      ========================0A>
      =0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>
      
Message 4
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Landing on one wheel | 
      
      Michel:  
      
      I had a Kitfox II. I think the model III ldg gear is stronger. It was typica
      l to have x-wind at my homebase. I used to made one wheel landings very ofte
      n. No problem at all. As a matter of fact,  I would not do the crab and kick
       the rudder technique. 
      
      Saludos!
      
      Jos=C3=A9
      
      Sent from my iPhone
      
      > On Oct 3, 2013, at 12:39 PM, Michael Laundy <mikelaundy@yahoo.co.uk> wrote
      :
      > 
      > Michael,
      >  
      > I am with you on this one, when I learned to fly 50 years ago on Chipmunks
       as a trainee RAF pilot, we were taught  the"crab" technique for landing in a
       cross winds.  Later as an RAF flying instructor the "crab" crosswind landin
      g technique was the one we taught our students on the Jet Provost.  I have u
      sed that technique ever since when flying  straight wing aircraft.  The only
       time I used side slipping for  crosswind  landings was when flying swept wi
      ng airliners (Boeing 767), as with them "kicking "off drift using a "crab"  t
      chnique can give an unacceptable rate of roll away from the crosswind, and  h
      eavy aircraft are sluggish to react to control inputs at low speed due to th
      eir high inertia. They do of course have multi wheel bogies to land on!
      >  
      > In my opinion there are hazards with the Kitfox to land side slipping on o
      ne wheel.  Its too easy to get a high rate of descent in the slide slip and I
       find on my KF3 I run out of up elevator at slow speed,  the two combined co
      uld easily give a hard landing, and on one wheel that could break something.
      
      >  
      > The strip I use is frequently out of wind and I sometimes have to land wit
      h crosswinds up to 15 mph.  In strong crosswinds I make my approach at 60mph
        reducing to around 50mph in the flare and as I run out of up elevator and s
      ense the aircraft starting to sink I give a qick burst of power to add a bit
       of slipstream effect over the rudder and elevators and kick the drift off w
      ith rudder, it works well for me!  
      >  
      > Mike
      > Kitfox 3 Rotax 582
      > Cornwall UK
      >  
      >  
      > 
      > From: Michel <michel@online.no>
      > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com 
      > Sent: Thursday, 3 October 2013, 2:15
      > Subject: Kitfox-List: Landing on one wheel
      > 
      > 
      > Hello guys,
      > My son, who has not been flying our Kitfox 3 for two years, need an instru
      ctor check-up to keep his license. I asked the instructor what my son needed
       to train for before the check-up.
      > 
      > He answered: "Climbing 500 ft in 360 degrees turn, then the opposite, then
       landing on 3 points, 2 points and one wheel."
      > 
      > "One wheel?" Yes, it is necessary if landing in crosswind, doing a side sl
      ip.
      > 
      > Okay, I do a lot of side slips, to get the right speed on final since I ne
      ver use my flaperons. But, touching the ground side slipping and on one whee
      l is ... awkward when the wind is not from the side!
      > 
      > But he insists that we do that, as a training. Okay, I tried a couple of t
      imes but when landing with a head wind, side slipping on one wheel, there is
       a lateral pull on the wheel and I don't like it!
      > 
      > I don't like it because I still have the old fashion gear made of steel pi
      pes and I am afraid I might bend something. Of course, I could try to do it w
      hen there is a real side wind so that I actually compensate the wind drift w
      ith the side displacement, which is the intention. But where I live, the pre
      vailing winds are very much in the direction of the runway and I just can't m
      atch the very seldom crosswind with my son's training.
      > 
      > My question then is: Has any of you had problems with the original gear, l
      anding on one wheel? I know of a Kitfox that has hit a taxiway asphalt edge w
      ith his right hand wheel and the tube under the seat, the one the bungee is t
      urned around, was bended. I don't want to get the same! Will I run a risk of
       it?
      > 
      > Cheers,
      > Michel
      > 
      > --------
      > Kitfox 3 - Jabiru 2200
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > Read this topic online here:
      > 
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=409750#409750http://www.matr
      onics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
      D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
      =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
      D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
      =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
      D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
      =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
      D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
      =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
      > 
      
Message 5
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | header tank does not stay full - installing a fitting | 
      at the top of the wing tank
      
      Today I went to take a look at my tanks but I realized that (unlike Guys')
      mine are made of plastic, not fiberglass.  They are quite thin (the fuel
      level can be seen through the tank so a couple of mm max) so that I would
      need to glue something on the outside in order to drill a hole and cut
      threads in it.  But gluing on plastic is bound to be problematic; I'm not
      sure what plastic it is, it is slightly "greasy" to the touch, maybe
      poly-propylene/ethylene.  
      
      Does anyone have any experience with this?  Can anyone recommend a product
      that they have used?
      
      
      I was thinking, as an alternative to drilling a hole in the tank for a
      return breather line, if I could find some kind of valve that lets air out
      but not fuel (e.g. like they have on breather lines for boats), I could just
      fit one of those to the header tank and be done with it. 
      
      
      Sacha
      
      
      From: Guy Buchanan [mailto:gebuchanan@cox.net] 
      Sent: Saturday, 28 September, 2013 05:35
      Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: header tank does not stay full - installing a
      fitting at the top of the wing tank
      
      
      Brass fittings, pipe threads, no backing. You can do 1/4 to 1/8 pipe adapter
      and screw the 1/8 pipe fitting into that but you must be very careful
      cutting the 1/4 threads. It's easy to pop your G-10 plate off. Otherwise
      just cut 1/8 pipe threads in the G-10 and screw your fitting right into it.
      (It depends on whether you think you'll ever have to remove the fitting for
      maintenance. If not, go right into the tank. If you have to do regular
      maintenance, use the adapter.) I glued the plates with the 3500 psi acrylic
      adhesive you find at the hardware store. If you still have any Hysol laying
      around that would be better. (Used on the wing ribs.) The pipe fittings I
      sealed with the 2-part polysulfide sealant available from Aircraft Spruce.
      Expensive as hell but it's the only stuff I ever got to work with 100LL.
      
      Guy
      
      On 9/27/2013 7:33 PM, Sacha wrote: 
      
      Guy
      Thanks for the pics. I have a question about the fittings. I assume they are
      made of bronze and you've  screwed them into the tank. Is there a locking
      nut on the inside of the tank (if so, how did you access it?) and what did
      you use as glue/bond for the fitting.
      
      
Message 6
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | header tank does not stay full - installing a fitting | 
      at the top of the wing tank
      
      Sacha,
      
      Is there any way you might be able to use a bulkhead fitting with seals on
      both sides? You could run a wire through the hole you drill out the filler
      hole on top so you could slide the seal and washer down the wire in order to
      line it up with and get it started on the bulkhead fitting. 
      
      Just some food for thought.
      
      
      lloyd 
      
      
      From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sacha
      Sent: Thursday, October 03, 2013 3:12 PM
      Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: header tank does not stay full - installing a
      fitting at the top of the wing tank
      
      
      Today I went to take a look at my tanks but I realized that (unlike Guys')
      mine are made of plastic, not fiberglass.  They are quite thin (the fuel
      level can be seen through the tank so a couple of mm max) so that I would
      need to glue something on the outside in order to drill a hole and cut
      threads in it.  But gluing on plastic is bound to be problematic; I'm not
      sure what plastic it is, it is slightly "greasy" to the touch, maybe
      poly-propylene/ethylene.  
      
      Does anyone have any experience with this?  Can anyone recommend a product
      that they have used?
      
      
      I was thinking, as an alternative to drilling a hole in the tank for a
      return breather line, if I could find some kind of valve that lets air out
      but not fuel (e.g. like they have on breather lines for boats), I could just
      fit one of those to the header tank and be done with it. 
      
      
      Sacha
      
      
      From: Guy Buchanan [mailto:gebuchanan@cox.net] 
      Sent: Saturday, 28 September, 2013 05:35
      Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: header tank does not stay full - installing a
      fitting at the top of the wing tank
      
      
      Brass fittings, pipe threads, no backing. You can do 1/4 to 1/8 pipe adapter
      and screw the 1/8 pipe fitting into that but you must be very careful
      cutting the 1/4 threads. It's easy to pop your G-10 plate off. Otherwise
      just cut 1/8 pipe threads in the G-10 and screw your fitting right into it.
      (It depends on whether you think you'll ever have to remove the fitting for
      maintenance. If not, go right into the tank. If you have to do regular
      maintenance, use the adapter.) I glued the plates with the 3500 psi acrylic
      adhesive you find at the hardware store. If you still have any Hysol laying
      around that would be better. (Used on the wing ribs.) The pipe fittings I
      sealed with the 2-part polysulfide sealant available from Aircraft Spruce.
      Expensive as hell but it's the only stuff I ever got to work with 100LL.
      
      Guy
      
      On 9/27/2013 7:33 PM, Sacha wrote: 
      
      Guy
      Thanks for the pics. I have a question about the fittings. I assume they are
      made of bronze and you've  screwed them into the tank. Is there a locking
      nut on the inside of the tank (if so, how did you access it?) and what did
      you use as glue/bond for the fitting.
      
      
      No virus found in this message.
      Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
      
      
Message 7
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: header tank does not stay full - installing a fitting | 
      at the top of the wing tank
      
      Lloyd
      That's a good idea. Trouble is the filer cap is about 8 inches from the side
       of the tank. I'm not confident I can get a spanner down there to screw the l
      ocking nut in place. If I give it a try then I might get stuck with a hole i
      n my tank. So I really need to find out if there's a way to glue this stuff.
       The only way I'm aware of is using heat, which is not ideal due to the pres
      ence of gasoline. But maybe there are done adhesives or resins which might w
      ork? I have no idea. 
      Sacha
      
      On Oct 4, 2013, at 2:53, "Lloyd & Lorrie Cudnohufsky" <7suds@Chartermi.net> w
      rote:
      
      > Sacha,
      > Is there any way you might be able to use a bulkhead fitting with seals on
       both sides? You could run a wire through the hole you drill out the filler h
      ole on top so you could slide the seal and washer down the wire in order to l
      ine it up with and get it started on the bulkhead fitting.
      > Just some food for thought.
      >  
      > lloyd
      >  
      > From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-ser
      ver@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sacha
      > Sent: Thursday, October 03, 2013 3:12 PM
      > To: Kitfox List
      > Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: header tank does not stay full - installing a fi
      tting at the top of the wing tank
      >  
      > Today I went to take a look at my tanks but I realized that (unlike Guys=81
      f) mine are made of plastic, not fiberglass.  They are quite thin (the fuel l
      evel can be seen through the tank so a couple of mm max) so that I would nee
      d to glue something on the outside in order to drill a hole and cut threads i
      n it.  But gluing on plastic is bound to be problematic; I=81fm not sure wha
      t plastic it is, it is slightly =81ggreasy=81h to the touch, maybe poly-prop
      ylene/ethylene. 
      > Does anyone have any experience with this?  Can anyone recommend a product
       that they have used?
      >  
      > I was thinking, as an alternative to drilling a hole in the tank for a ret
      urn breather line, if I could find some kind of valve that lets air out but n
      ot fuel (e.g. like they have on breather lines for boats), I could just fit o
      ne of those to the header tank and be done with it.
      >  
      > Sacha
      >  
      > From: Guy Buchanan [mailto:gebuchanan@cox.net] 
      > Sent: Saturday, 28 September, 2013 05:35
      > To: Sacha
      > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: header tank does not stay full - installing a fi
      tting at the top of the wing tank
      >  
      > Brass fittings, pipe threads, no backing. You can do 1/4 to 1/8 pipe adapt
      er and screw the 1/8 pipe fitting into that but you must be very careful cut
      ting the 1/4 threads. It's easy to pop your G-10 plate off. Otherwise just c
      ut 1/8 pipe threads in the G-10 and screw your fitting right into it. (It de
      pends on whether you think you'll ever have to remove the fitting for mainte
      nance. If not, go right into the tank. If you have to do regular maintenance
      , use the adapter.) I glued the plates with the 3500 psi acrylic adhesive yo
      u find at the hardware store. If you still have any Hysol laying around that
       would be better. (Used on the wing ribs.) The pipe fittings I sealed with t
      he 2-part polysulfide sealant available from Aircraft Spruce. Expensive as h
      ell but it's the only stuff I ever got to work with 100LL.
      > 
      > Guy
      > 
      > On 9/27/2013 7:33 PM, Sacha wrote:
      > Guy
      > Thanks for the pics. I have a question about the fittings. I assume they a
      re made of bronze and you've  screwed them into the tank. Is there a locking
       nut on the inside of the tank (if so, how did you access it?) and what did y
      ou use as glue/bond for the fitting.
      >   
      >  
      >  http://www.matron===================
      <           - content also available via the Web    --> http://forums.matron
      ics.com         - List Contribution Web generous nbsp;                      
        --> http://www.matronics.com/c
      >  
      > No virus found in this message.
      > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
      > Version: 10/03/13
      > 
      > 
      ==========================
      =========
      ==========================
      =========
      ==========================
      =========
      ==========================
      =========
      > 
      
Message 8
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: header tank does not stay full - installing a  fitting | 
      at the top of the wing tank
      
      Sacha, Where are you located? Dow Corning 730 will work. I have some that I
      have had in the refrigerator for awhile. Still seems pliable. I sent some
      to someone else with similar problem. I used it to seal fitting to my
      header tank also. It was $99 for 3 fl oz from ACS. I can send you enough to
      accomplish your project. If it works you can sent me a few bucks. If it
      doesn't you'll have to buy a whole tube.
      
      Pat Reilly
      Mod 3 582 Rebuilt
      Rockford, IL
      
      
      On Thu, Oct 3, 2013 at 9:52 PM, Sacha <uuccio@gmail.com> wrote:
      
      > Lloyd
      > That's a good idea. Trouble is the filer cap is about 8 inches from the
      > side of the tank. I'm not confident I can get a spanner down there to scr
      ew
      > the locking nut in place. If I give it a try then I might get stuck with 
      a
      > hole in my tank. So I really need to find out if there's a way to glue th
      is
      > stuff. The only way I'm aware of is using heat, which is not ideal due to
      > the presence of gasoline. But maybe there are done adhesives or resins
      > which might work? I have no idea.
      > Sacha
      >
      > On Oct 4, 2013, at 2:53, "Lloyd & Lorrie Cudnohufsky" <7suds@Chartermi.ne
      t>
      > wrote:
      >
      > Sacha,****
      >
      > Is there any way you might be able to use a bulkhead fitting with seals o
      n
      > both sides? You could run a wire through the hole you drill out the fille
      r
      > hole on top so you could slide the seal and washer down the wire in order
      > to line it up with and get it started on the bulkhead fitting. ****
      >
      > Just some food for thought.****
      >
      > ** **
      >
      > lloyd ****
      >
      > ** **
      >
      > *From:* owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [
      > mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com<owner-kitfox-list-server@ma
      tronics.com>]
      > *On Behalf Of *Sacha
      > *Sent:* Thursday, October 03, 2013 3:12 PM
      > *To:* Kitfox List
      > *Subject:* RE: Kitfox-List: header tank does not stay full - installing a
      > fitting at the top of the wing tank****
      >
      > ** **
      >
      > Today I went to take a look at my tanks but I realized that (unlike Guys
      =92)
      > mine are made of plastic, not fiberglass.  They are quite thin (the fuel
      > level can be seen through the tank so a couple of mm max) so that I would
      > need to glue something on the outside in order to drill a hole and cut
      > threads in it.  But gluing on plastic is bound to be problematic; I=92m n
      ot
      > sure what plastic it is, it is slightly =93greasy=94 to the touch, maybe
      > poly-propylene/ethylene.  ****
      >
      > Does anyone have any experience with this?  Can anyone recommend a produc
      t
      > that they have used?****
      >
      > ** **
      >
      > I was thinking, as an alternative to drilling a hole in the tank for a
      > return breather line, if I could find some kind of valve that lets air ou
      t
      > but not fuel (e.g. like they have on breather lines for boats), I could
      > just fit one of those to the header tank and be done with it. ****
      >
      > ** **
      >
      > Sacha****
      >
      > ** **
      >
      > *From:* Guy Buchanan [mailto:gebuchanan@cox.net <gebuchanan@cox.net>]
      > *Sent:* Saturday, 28 September, 2013 05:35
      > *To:* Sacha
      > *Subject:* Re: Kitfox-List: header tank does not stay full - installing a
      > fitting at the top of the wing tank****
      >
      > ** **
      >
      > Brass fittings, pipe threads, no backing. You can do 1/4 to 1/8 pipe
      > adapter and screw the 1/8 pipe fitting into that but you must be *very *c
      areful
      > cutting the 1/4 threads. It's easy to pop your G-10 plate off. Otherwise
      > just cut 1/8 pipe threads in the G-10 and screw your fitting right into i
      t.
      > (It depends on whether you think you'll ever have to remove the fitting f
      or
      > maintenance. If not, go right into the tank. If you have to do regular
      > maintenance, use the adapter.) I glued the plates with the 3500 psi acryl
      ic
      > adhesive you find at the hardware store. If you still have any Hysol layi
      ng
      > around that would be better. (Used on the wing ribs.) The pipe fittings I
      > sealed with the 2-part polysulfide sealant available from Aircraft Spruce
      .
      > Expensive as hell but it's the only stuff I ever got to work with 100LL.
      >
      > Guy
      >
      > On 9/27/2013 7:33 PM, Sacha wrote: ****
      >
      > Guy****
      >
      > Thanks for the pics. I have a question about the fittings. I assume they 
      are made of bronze and you've  screwed them into the tank. Is there a locki
      ng nut on the inside of the tank (if so, how did you access it?) and what d
      id you use as glue/bond for the fitting.****
      >
      >   ****
      >
      > ** **
      >
      > * *http://www.matron=================
      ==****<           - content also available via the Web    --> http://fo
      rums.matronics.com**         - List Contribution Web generous nbsp;        
                      --> http://www.matronics.com/c=**** <http://www.matronics
      .com/contribution>**
      >
      > * * <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
      >
      > No virus found in this message.
      > Checked by AVG - <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>www.avg.com
      > Version: 10/03/13****
      >
      > *
      >
      > ========================
      > tp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List
      > ========================
      ===========cs.com
      > ========================
      ===========matronics.com/contribution
      > ========================
      > *
      >
      > *
      >
      ===========
      ===========
      ===========
      ===========
      > *
      >
      >
      
      
      -- 
      Pat Reilly
      Mod 3 582 Rebuild
      Rockford,IL
      
Message 9
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | header tank does not stay full - installing a  fitting | 
      at the top of the wing tank
      
      Hi Pat, 
      
      Thanks a lot for that.  Unfortunately I'm in Italy so it's probably not
      practical to mail it, but it's a Dow product, so I'm sure I can find some
      around here somewhere.  
      
      Are you recommending it as an adhesive to thicken the tank wall or as a
      sealant, or both?
      
      Sacha
      
      
      From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Reilly
      Sent: Friday, 04 October, 2013 05:31
      Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: header tank does not stay full - installing a
      fitting at the top of the wing tank
      
      
      Sacha, Where are you located? Dow Corning 730 will work. I have some that I
      have had in the refrigerator for awhile. Still seems pliable. I sent some to
      someone else with similar problem. I used it to seal fitting to my header
      tank also. It was $99 for 3 fl oz from ACS. I can send you enough to
      accomplish your project. If it works you can sent me a few bucks. If it
      doesn't you'll have to buy a whole tube.
      
      
      Pat Reilly
      
      Mod 3 582 Rebuilt
      
      Rockford, IL  
      
      
      On Thu, Oct 3, 2013 at 9:52 PM, Sacha <uuccio@gmail.com> wrote:
      
      Lloyd
      
      That's a good idea. Trouble is the filer cap is about 8 inches from the side
      of the tank. I'm not confident I can get a spanner down there to screw the
      locking nut in place. If I give it a try then I might get stuck with a hole
      in my tank. So I really need to find out if there's a way to glue this
      stuff. The only way I'm aware of is using heat, which is not ideal due to
      the presence of gasoline. But maybe there are done adhesives or resins which
      might work? I have no idea. 
      
      Sacha
      
      
      On Oct 4, 2013, at 2:53, "Lloyd & Lorrie Cudnohufsky" <7suds@Chartermi.net>
      wrote:
      
      Sacha,
      
      Is there any way you might be able to use a bulkhead fitting with seals on
      both sides? You could run a wire through the hole you drill out the filler
      hole on top so you could slide the seal and washer down the wire in order to
      line it up with and get it started on the bulkhead fitting. 
      
      Just some food for thought.
      
      
      lloyd 
      
      
      From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sacha
      Sent: Thursday, October 03, 2013 3:12 PM
      Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: header tank does not stay full - installing a
      fitting at the top of the wing tank
      
      
      Today I went to take a look at my tanks but I realized that (unlike Guys')
      mine are made of plastic, not fiberglass.  They are quite thin (the fuel
      level can be seen through the tank so a couple of mm max) so that I would
      need to glue something on the outside in order to drill a hole and cut
      threads in it.  But gluing on plastic is bound to be problematic; I'm not
      sure what plastic it is, it is slightly "greasy" to the touch, maybe
      poly-propylene/ethylene.  
      
      Does anyone have any experience with this?  Can anyone recommend a product
      that they have used?
      
      
      I was thinking, as an alternative to drilling a hole in the tank for a
      return breather line, if I could find some kind of valve that lets air out
      but not fuel (e.g. like they have on breather lines for boats), I could just
      fit one of those to the header tank and be done with it. 
      
      
      Sacha
      
      
      From: Guy Buchanan [mailto:gebuchanan@cox.net] 
      Sent: Saturday, 28 September, 2013 05:35
      Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: header tank does not stay full - installing a
      fitting at the top of the wing tank
      
      
      Brass fittings, pipe threads, no backing. You can do 1/4 to 1/8 pipe adapter
      and screw the 1/8 pipe fitting into that but you must be very careful
      cutting the 1/4 threads. It's easy to pop your G-10 plate off. Otherwise
      just cut 1/8 pipe threads in the G-10 and screw your fitting right into it.
      (It depends on whether you think you'll ever have to remove the fitting for
      maintenance. If not, go right into the tank. If you have to do regular
      maintenance, use the adapter.) I glued the plates with the 3500 psi acrylic
      adhesive you find at the hardware store. If you still have any Hysol laying
      around that would be better. (Used on the wing ribs.) The pipe fittings I
      sealed with the 2-part polysulfide sealant available from Aircraft Spruce.
      Expensive as hell but it's the only stuff I ever got to work with 100LL.
      
      Guy
      
      On 9/27/2013 7:33 PM, Sacha wrote: 
      
      Guy
      Thanks for the pics. I have a question about the fittings. I assume they are
      made of bronze and you've  screwed them into the tank. Is there a locking
      nut on the inside of the tank (if so, how did you access it?) and what did
      you use as glue/bond for the fitting.
      
      
       http://www.matron===================<           - content also available
      via the Web    --> http://forums.matronics.com         - List Contribution
      Web generous nbsp;                        --> http://www.matronics.com/c
      <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> 
       <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>  
      
       <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> No virus found in this message.
      Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
      Version: 10/03/13
      
      
      =========
      tp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List
      =========
      cs.com
      =========
      matronics.com/contribution
      =========
      
      
      arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List
      tp://forums.matronics.com
      _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
      
      
      -- 
      Pat Reilly
      Mod 3 582 Rebuild
      Rockford,IL 
      
      
Message 10
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: header tank does not stay full - installing a fitting | 
      at the top of the wing tank
      
      Bummer dude. You're quite right, there's no way to glue to polyethylene. 
      (See this <http://www.eplastics.com/Polyethylene-Adhesives-Glue>. The 
      Dow 370 is a sealant, not an adhesive.) The only way to add a boss is to 
      weld it. If you could get access, you might be able to put together a 
      fixture in your hand drill that might enable you to friction weld it, 
      but if you messed up you'd have one huge hole in your tank. I do think 
      you could install a small bulkhead fitting through the filler neck, as 
      follows:
      
          * Cut the inside barb off this fitting
            <http://www.zorotools.com/g/00057435/k-G1187286?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed&kw=%7Bkeyword%7D&gclid=CJ-wh42x_LkCFQto7AodzVcA2A>.
            (You want the nut on the outside.) Clean it up. (You might try to
            find a right angle barb that would make the job of holding it in
            place while you tighten the nut easier.)
          * Cut the hole in the tank so the nuts are at least 1/4" from the
            tank radius. (If possible.)
          * Try to rough up the tank surfaces 1/2" around the hole.
          * Make two 1/16" G-10 washers to fit the barb threads and extend to
            the tank radius. (Might make them larger and flatten one side
            where the radius is. Might make them thicker if there are enough
            threads on the barb.)
          * Run a stiff wire from the hole in the tank to the filler. Slide on
            the barb and one washer, both heavily loaded with 2-part
            polysulfide sealant and bend the wire end into a hook.
          * Pull the barb out through the hole in the tank.
          * Load up the outside with sealant.
          * Add the other washer and nut and tighten the nut as much as you
            can holding the barb with something that won't damage it. You
            don't need it really, really tight, since the sealant will take up
            the slack.
      
      That's one idea.
      
      Guy Buchanan
      Ramona, CA
      Kitfox IV-1200 / 912-S / Warp 3cs / 500 hrs. and grounded
      Now a glider pilot, too.
      
      
 
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