Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:13 AM - Re: Hydraulic Brake Options (Ron Koval)
2. 10:11 AM - Re: Hydraulic Brake Options (Larry Eubanks)
3. 11:09 AM - Nose wheel pressure (Brian Anderson)
4. 01:05 PM - (FMC- John Archibald)
5. 01:25 PM - Re: (Everett Collier)
6. 01:55 PM - MATCO Brakes For Sale (Randy Lesemann)
7. 01:56 PM - Re: Nose wheel pressure (David Weaver)
8. 02:01 PM - Re: Nose wheel pressure (Kane, Thomas G)
9. 03:43 PM - Re: Nose wheel pressure (Brian Anderson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Hydraulic Brake Options |
Pulsar Enthusiasts.=0A=0AI anticipated and hoped for some great discussion
on brakes and I appreciated =0Aeverybody's feedback.- This is almost as g
ood as the 100LL and ethanol fuel =0Adiscussions.=0A=0AMy current band brak
es work as I would anticipate.- They stop the Pulsar very =0Awell.- The
y do indeed hold the Pulsar at full throttle.- The few times I =0Aexperie
nced fade, I realized, I made a very poor landing.- My home airport, =0Ac
lass-D Aurora KARR, is getting busier now that two large competing FBOs-a
nd =0Amaintenance shops operate here (fuel price wars).- And now most oft
en it is, you =0Aare number 3 or 4, following and being followed by aircraf
t that don't approach =0A70mph or under.- So I find myself doing the patt
ern allot faster than I desire =0Aand bleed off the speed after the flare a
t the numbers, still-able to take the =0Afirst turn off.- The tower has
I requested, maintain speed if able.-=0A=0AThe one thing that hasn't bee
n mentioned about the band brakes, and I don't know =0Aif it just my config
uration, but over the life of the band brake, I have to =0Areadjust them (3
-4 times over the life of the band).- Even though it is =0Arelatively sim
ple and doesn't require that I remove the wheel pant, it is the =0Ahighest
importance on the check list procedure, before starting the engine, =0Apres
s the heal brake levers and ask yourself, do they need adjusting.- I keep
a =0Aset of alen wrenches and a needle nose pliers on board in case I need
to make an =0Aadjustment away from home.- I assume that with a hydraulic
brake system that the =0Abrake fluid keeps filling the caliper cylinder to
automatically compensate for =0Awear.=0A=0AI hope that with a hydraulic br
ake system I can get back to what I was use to =0Awhen I owned my Grumman C
heetah where the only-significant maintenance was pads =0Aevery 3 years (
conservatively).=0A=0AThere is consensus from both Matco and Obrien, provid
e enough hydraulic pressure =0Awith proper master cylinder leverage and you
will hold the plane at static full =0Apower.- Both don't necessarily fee
l that is a braking system absolute must have, =0Abut if that is desired, t
heir systems can provide it with sufficient master =0Acylinder leverage.-
My master cylinders have 3:1 leverage that I can scale back =0Aif needed.
- Matco said in regards to the amount of travel needed at the master =0Ac
ylinder, "On a well bled system, =BD inch of stroke would be a lot".=0A-
=0AThanks again for all the great feedback and don't hold back if you have
more.=0A=0ABest regards,=0A=0ARon=0A=0A=0A________________________________
=0AFrom: Ron Koval <ronko@att.net>=0ATo: Pulsar Builders <Pulsar-List@matro
nics.com>; Pulsar-Aviators@yahoogroups.com=0ASent: Mon, January 10, 2011 9:
41:02 AM=0ASubject: Pulsar-List: Hydraulic Brake Options=0A=0A=0APulsar Ent
husiasts,=0A=0AI am in the process of converting my band brakes to hydrauli
cs.- I got the =0Amaster cylinder installation well along, but haven't pu
rchased a brake system =0Afor the main wheels yet.=0A=0AHere are the option
s I am very aware of.---First the most popular Matco =0AWHLW50CC.75 w
heel and internal caliper with WHLAXLE7 axle.- The other option I =0Ahave
found which would use my current AZUSA 5" wheels is the Great Plains brake
=0Akit http://www.greatplainsas.com/schbrakes.html-which I don't know of
anybody =0Athat has used this system.- I also called Tracy Obrien about
his C90 brakes =0Awhich also works with the AZUSA 5" wheels, but he did not
have any in stock and =0Aseemed reluctant to commit to an order.=0A=0AOuts
ide of the Matco system, is there anybody that has had success with one of
=0Athese other or another wheel/hydraulic brake system?=0A=0ABest regards,
==== =0A
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Hydraulic Brake Options |
Ron
I have the Tracy Obrien brakes and have gotten good use of them for over
750 hours. I am now in the process of replacing the linings for the
first time. They are a definite step up from the band brakes but do have
their own quirks as well.
They tend to get hot if you ride the brakes to steer instead of using
the rudder.
I have the recommended 4 to one pedal ratio (Matco Master cylinders)
but they still do not hold on a full power run up. They do hold for a
normal 1800 rpm run-up for a Jabiru engine. I have a tail dragger so
that is all I need or want.
The nice thing about these brakes are that they are lightweight and
compact and if mounted as mine are they will fit into the original wheel
pant, using the original axle, using the original Azusa wheels. Very
inexpensive to install.
You can even take off the wheel without dismantling the brakes from
the wheel. I don't know of another hydraulic brake that lets you do
this.
They do need a little brake spacer adjustment after about 300 hours
that involves removing four screws on each brake and putting in four new
shorter spacers. Takes less than an hour for the job.
They develop a very slight rattle as they roll due to wear on the wheel
rotor pins(wheel bolts) but it can only be heard when pushed around with
the engine off. This can be fixed with buying new wheel bolts. I am also
doing that now after 750 hours.
If you expect to use them hard with too fast landings and tend to ride
the brakes for steering , go with the Matco.
If you can fly and taxi like you still have band brakes the Tracy Obrien
brakes will work for you. Just a little better.
Larry
Message 3
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| Subject: | Nose wheel pressure |
I'm doing another annual inspection, the 10th one now, and inflating the tyres
in the process. I fitted new main tyres and tubes a year ago and have only had
to re-inflate once in that time, and even now the pressure has been maintained
pretty well. Previously I had to pump the mains up about every 3 months.
>From time to time I still experience a little nosewheel shimmy. I have some friction
on the pivot, but maybe not quite enough. Landing too fast is probably
the major contributor, but I always try to hold the nosewheel off as long as possible.
The question is - - does the tyre pressure in the nosewheel make any
difference. I can't say I have noticed it one way or the other. Usually I put
about 30 psi in the nosewheel and when I checked yesterday, after a year it was
down to about 20 psi. [By the way, it is the larger nosewheel that came with
the later Aero Design kits, but with an Asusa aluminium wheel]. If there was
some certainty about whether the nosewheel pressure made a difference I would
be more careful to maintain it in the right region.
I had a deal of difficulty getting any friction system to work effectively. I have
the original Aero Designs nose leg, but with a later Skystar cast aluminium
fork. The reason for the change is that the kit supplied fork was drilled at
an angle so the nosewheel was mis-aligned. The later fork is thicker at the pivot
point, and also needed to be sleeved for the smaller pivot pin. The additional
thickness leaves very little room for Bellville washers so I had to improvise
with a single slimmed down version. Hence one flat on the securing nut makes
a big difference to the friction, and it is impossible to get it just right.
It's either too tight for taxiing or too loose for shimmy.
Has anyone thought of a good way to have nice linear friction in the last 10 years
?
Brian
Message 4
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test-respond please
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Pulsar-List: |
John, it came through to me at 1:22 PM PST
Everett
________________________________
From: FMC- John Archibald <fmcpharmacy@fmcwinchester.org>
Sent: Wed, January 12, 2011 1:09:22 PM
Subject: Pulsar-List:
test-respond please
Message 6
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| Subject: | MATCO Brakes For Sale |
The recent discussion on hydraulic brakes reminded me I have an entire
assembly of unused MATCO brakes. My Dad's XP was built with the
original MATCO brake system. They proved to be somewhat inadequate. My
XP was built with band brakes. My Dad and I were going to convert mine
to hydraulics using the "beefed up" brakes. Phyliss at MATCO provided
all the parts necessary, including the wheels (5 x 5.00 I think) with
internal calipers, axles, PV4A master cylinders, the fluid reservoir,
and all the needed fittings and tubing. Dad had drawn plans for
retrofitting toe brakes onto the existing rudder pedals and I have some,
if not all, the steel pieces needed to do this.
Unfortunately my Dad passed away before we were able to start the
conversion, and I subsequently sold my XP.
If anyone is interested, I can provide digital photographs of all the
parts. I would like to sell all the parts for $700.
I also have two magnetic compasses. One is an Airguide designed to
insert in a 2.25 panel opening, which I removed from my Pulsar when I
replaced it with a remote sensor flux gate compass. The other is a 2.25
panel mount/surface mount Dad removed from his plane when he replaced it
with a vertical card compass. I would like to sell each of them for $100.
I can be reached by email, or at 478-743-1118.
Randy Lesemann
--
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Nose wheel pressure |
Brian -----------------------
-------------------------
-------------------------
-------------------------
--------------------- Since you c
an not work with the usual stack of bellevue washers, have you tried workin
g with a bellevue washer of a higher compression rating (offers higher crus
h resistance)?
Another thought is to insert a flat washer of a dissimilar metal between th
e existing 2 bellevue washers.- Brass may contribute enough friction to w
ork.- I also have the Azuzu large wheel option.- I find that 20 lbs for
the nose wheel inflation pressure to be adequate and cushions touch-down n
icely.
Dave Weaver N912GR
--- On Wed, 1/12/11, Brian Anderson <briana@xtra.co.nz> wrote:
From: Brian Anderson <briana@xtra.co.nz>
Subject: Pulsar-List: Nose wheel pressure
I'm doing another annual inspection, the 10th one now, and inflating the ty
res in the process. I fitted new main tyres and tubes a year ago and have o
nly had to re-inflate once in that time, and even now the pressure has been
maintained pretty well. Previously I had to pump the mains up about every
3 months.
>From time to time I still experience a little nosewheel shimmy. I have som
e friction on the pivot, but maybe not quite enough. Landing too fast is pr
obably the major contributor, but I always try to hold the nosewheel off as
long as possible. The question is - - does the tyre pressure in the nosewh
eel make any difference. I can't say I have noticed it one way or the other
. Usually I put about 30 psi in the nosewheel and when I checked yesterday,
after a year it was down to about 20 psi. [By the way, it is the larger no
sewheel that came with the later Aero Design kits, but with an Asusa alumin
ium wheel]. If there was some certainty about whether the nosewheel pressur
e made a difference I would be more careful to maintain it in the right reg
ion.
I had a deal of difficulty getting any friction system to work effectively.
I have the original Aero Designs nose leg, but with a later Skystar cast a
luminium fork. The reason for the change is that the kit supplied fork was
drilled at an angle so the nosewheel was mis-aligned. The later fork is thi
cker at the pivot point, and also needed to be sleeved for the smaller pivo
t pin. The additional thickness leaves very little room for Bellville washe
rs so I had to improvise with a single slimmed down version. Hence one flat
on the securing nut makes a big difference to the friction, and it is impo
ssible to get it just right. It's either too tight for taxiing or too loose
for shimmy.
Has anyone thought of a good way to have nice linear friction in the last 1
0 years ?
Brian
le, List Admin.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Nose wheel pressure |
Dear Brian,
Nose wheel shimmy can be reduced with the installation of a fluid damper mo
unted perpendicular to the direction of travel inside the wheel pant. A sm
all piece of PVC/PCV pipe capped on both ends and partially filled with hea
vy oil such as automotive differential gear oil can be used. Mount the dam
per inside the wheel pant behind the nose wheel. When the wheel pant moves
to the left the oil will move to the right.
Tom.
--
Tom Kane
407 Nob Hill Drive
Stafford, Virginia 22556
N17575, Pulsar XP, Rotax 912
540.752-1509 home
703.624-2833 cell
703.845-2404 work
On 1/12/11 2:07 PM, "Brian Anderson" <briana@xtra.co.nz> wrote:
I'm doing another annual inspection, the 10th one now, and inflating the ty
res in the process. I fitted new main tyres and tubes a year ago and have o
nly had to re-inflate once in that time, and even now the pressure has been
maintained pretty well. Previously I had to pump the mains up about every
3 months.
>From time to time I still experience a little nosewheel shimmy. I have som
e friction on the pivot, but maybe not quite enough. Landing too fast is pr
obably the major contributor, but I always try to hold the nosewheel off as
long as possible. The question is - - does the tyre pressure in the nosewh
eel make any difference. I can't say I have noticed it one way or the other
. Usually I put about 30 psi in the nosewheel and when I checked yesterday,
after a year it was down to about 20 psi. [By the way, it is the larger no
sewheel that came with the later Aero Design kits, but with an Asusa alumin
ium wheel]. If there was some certainty about whether the nosewheel pressur
e made a difference I would be more careful to maintain it in the right reg
ion.
I had a deal of difficulty getting any friction system to work effectively.
I have the original Aero Designs nose leg, but with a later Skystar cast a
luminium fork. The reason for the change is that the kit supplied fork was
drilled at an angle so the nosewheel was mis-aligned. The later fork is thi
cker at the pivot point, and also needed to be sleeved for the smaller pivo
t pin. The additional thickness leaves very little room for Bellville washe
rs so I had to improvise with a single slimmed down version. Hence one flat
on the securing nut makes a big difference to the friction, and it is impo
ssible to get it just right. It's either too tight for taxiing or too loose
for shimmy.
Has anyone thought of a good way to have nice linear friction in the last 1
0 years ?
Brian
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Nose wheel pressure |
Hi Tom,
Well that sounds like an original idea. So the oil acts as a mass that
tends to stay stationary as the wheel oscillate back and forth. Have you
tried this system. It would be easy to implement.
Brian
On 13/01/2011, at 10:55 AM, Kane, Thomas G wrote:
> Dear Brian,
> Nose wheel shimmy can be reduced with the installation of a fluid
damper mounted perpendicular to the direction of travel inside the wheel
pant. A small piece of PVC/PCV pipe capped on both ends and partially
filled with heavy oil such as automotive differential gear oil can be
used. Mount the damper inside the wheel pant behind the nose wheel.
When the wheel pant moves to the left the oil will move to the right.
> Tom.
> --
> Tom Kane
> 407 Nob Hill Drive
> Stafford, Virginia 22556
> N17575, Pulsar XP, Rotax 912
> 540.752-1509 home
> 703.624-2833 cell
> 703.845-2404 work
>
>
>
> On 1/12/11 2:07 PM, "Brian Anderson" <briana@xtra.co.nz> wrote:
>
>
> I'm doing another annual inspection, the 10th one now, and inflating
the tyres in the process. I fitted new main tyres and tubes a year ago
and have only had to re-inflate once in that time, and even now the
pressure has been maintained pretty well. Previously I had to pump the
mains up about every 3 months.
>
> >=46rom time to time I still experience a little nosewheel shimmy. I
have some friction on the pivot, but maybe not quite enough. Landing too
fast is probably the major contributor, but I always try to hold the
nosewheel off as long as possible. The question is - - does the tyre
pressure in the nosewheel make any difference. I can't say I have
noticed it one way or the other. Usually I put about 30 psi in the
nosewheel and when I checked yesterday, after a year it was down to
about 20 psi. [By the way, it is the larger nosewheel that came with the
later Aero Design kits, but with an Asusa aluminium wheel]. If there was
some certainty about whether the nosewheel pressure made a difference I
would be more careful to maintain it in the right region.
>
> I had a deal of difficulty getting any friction system to work
effectively. I have the original Aero Designs nose leg, but with a later
Skystar cast aluminium fork. The reason for the change is that the kit
supplied fork was drilled at an angle so the nosewheel was mis-aligned.
The later fork is thicker at the pivot point, and also needed to be
sleeved for the smaller pivot pin. The additional thickness leaves very
little room for Bellville washers so I had to improvise with a single
slimmed down version. Hence one flat on the securing nut makes a big
difference to the friction, and it is impossible to get it just right.
It's either too tight for taxiing or too loose for shimmy.
>
> Has anyone thought of a good way to have nice linear friction in the
last 10 years ?
>
> Brian
>
>
>
>
>
>
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