Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:25 AM - Re: EXTERNAL: A plastic dilemma (Cowan, Michael)
2. 10:39 AM - Oil Temperatures (Dennis Adams)
3. 11:27 AM - Re: Oil Temperatures (Bernard Wilder)
4. 12:16 PM - Re: A plastic dilemma (Larry Eubanks)
5. 12:31 PM - Re: Oil Temperatures (sonja.englert@juno.com)
6. 12:42 PM - Re: Oil Temperatures (Austin Moses)
7. 02:34 PM - Re: Annual reunion (Tom Gibbons)
8. 02:35 PM - A plastic dilemma - - - - solved (Brian Anderson)
9. 02:52 PM - Re: Oil Temperatures (Dennis Adams)
10. 04:26 PM - Re: Oil Temperatures (HUGH COULTER)
Message 1
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| Subject: | A plastic dilemma |
Probably not. Acetone or MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) will soften the film but you
will probably still have problems peeling it off. A commercially available paint
stripper (chlorinated) will probably soften it as well but you will likely
not avoid a mess. You probably already know, these chemicals are nasty and so
you want to take care in using them. Good luck. - Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pulsar-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pulsar-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Anderson
Sent: Saturday, April 30, 2011 6:42 PM
Subject: EXTERNAL: Pulsar-List: A plastic dilemma
Ok, it's nothing to do with a Pulsar, but some of the Gurus here might just know
the answer - -
I've made nice little aluminium shrouds for the wing/fuselage gaps for my "other"
aeroplane - - the 1926 Flitzer. Managed to find some offcuts from a repair
shop, of just the right gauge. The aluminium has protective plastic material [very
light grey colour] on both surfaces. Normally this protective coating is
pretty easy to peel off, leaving a nice clean and shiny surface underneath. The
trouble is, these offcuts had been sitting around for quite a long time. It
seems that the plastic that was more exposed to light has become, well, less plastic,
more brittle, and the adhesive seems to have a tighter grip. So getting
the plastic layer off now is an issue.
Is there some way of rejuvenating the plastic to restore its suppleness and tensile
strength, or some way of defeating the adhesive bond, without making a total
mess.
Suggestions welcomed.
Brian
Message 2
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| Subject: | Oil Temperatures |
All,
I have posted notes several times concerning oil temps on my XP. When
building I installed an oil thermostat per the Rotax recommendation (from
Earls, this is a race car unit and looked better than the Rotax unit). It
was difficult to install on an XP due to the lack of space.
Well it worked great in the winter, but oil temps were way too high in the
summer as I could not climb in order to keep them below 284 degrees F. I
did have some grounding problems with the Dynon and the temperature sensor
but I now know that the Dynon is reading correct temps.
I flew this morning with the oil thermostat removed and now my oil temps are
way too low (as were the cylinder head temps for the leading two
cylinders) The outside air temperatures were -8 degrees C. On climb out
the oil was about 132 degrees F max ( and I climbed hard) but then in level
flight they dropped down to about 100 degrees F and less on decent. I need
to get around 190 and climb out or at least sometime during the flight.
I am going to experiment with some metalized tape over the oil cooler. I
can probably do this as long as the cylinder head temps are also low.
Are other XP people having similar problems? What did you do to solve. By
the way this engine has high compression pistons and I expected it to tend
to run warmer.
Dennis Adams
N375CM 16 hours on the plane.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Temperatures |
Dennis,
I installed an auto oil thermostate designed to be used with automatic
tramissions. It opens at 180 degrees.
I start take-ofdf roll when oil gets to 100. It gets to 180 before I get to
600-700 feet and stays there.
It is about as big as my fist and installs easily. I got it from Lockwood
ten years ago.
Bernie Wilder
On Mon, May 2, 2011 at 1:34 PM, Dennis Adams <ghf4986@gmail.com> wrote:
> All,
>
> I have posted notes several times concerning oil temps on my XP. When
> building I installed an oil thermostat per the Rotax recommendation (from
> Earls, this is a race car unit and looked better than the Rotax unit). It
> was difficult to install on an XP due to the lack of space.
>
> Well it worked great in the winter, but oil temps were way too high in the
> summer as I could not climb in order to keep them below 284 degrees F. I
> did have some grounding problems with the Dynon and the temperature sensor
> but I now know that the Dynon is reading correct temps.
>
> I flew this morning with the oil thermostat removed and now my oil temps
> are way too low (as were the cylinder head temps for the leading two
> cylinders) The outside air temperatures were -8 degrees C. On climb out
> the oil was about 132 degrees F max ( and I climbed hard) but then in level
> flight they dropped down to about 100 degrees F and less on decent. I need
> to get around 190 and climb out or at least sometime during the flight.
>
> I am going to experiment with some metalized tape over the oil cooler. I
> can probably do this as long as the cylinder head temps are also low.
>
> Are other XP people having similar problems? What did you do to solve. By
> the way this engine has high compression pistons and I expected it to tend
> to run warmer.
>
> Dennis Adams
> N375CM 16 hours on the plane.
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: A plastic dilemma |
I finally found an ancient piece of plexiglass that was so old that the
paper and glue protection that the factory had applied could not be
peeled off without tearing. Dipped it into some boiling water for just a
few seconds and it came right off. Might work for you too?
Larry
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Temperatures |
It is really simple and effective to cover part of the oil radiator with tape to
keep the temperatures up and remove it when it gets warmer. That is really all
you need.
Sonja
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Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Temperatures |
Dennis,
The first winter, I covered about 2/3 of the oil radiator with duct
tape. It worked, but no adjustment. Next, I had built a slide affair
that could block between 1/3 - 2/3 of the radiator. It worked ok but I
removed it in the summer and haven't put it back. I just run with the
lower temps when it is cool.
Austin Moses
N460GM
----- Original Message -----
From: Dennis Adams
To: pulsar-list@matronics.com
Sent: 05/02/2011 11:34 AM
Subject: Pulsar-List: Oil Temperatures
All,
I have posted notes several times concerning oil temps on my XP. When
building I installed an oil thermostat per the Rotax recommendation
(from Earls, this is a race car unit and looked better than the Rotax
unit). It was difficult to install on an XP due to the lack of space.
Well it worked great in the winter, but oil temps were way too high in
the summer as I could not climb in order to keep them below 284 degrees
F. I did have some grounding problems with the Dynon and the
temperature sensor but I now know that the Dynon is reading correct
temps.
I flew this morning with the oil thermostat removed and now my oil
temps are way too low (as were the cylinder head temps for the leading
two cylinders) The outside air temperatures were -8 degrees C. On
climb out the oil was about 132 degrees F max ( and I climbed hard) but
then in level flight they dropped down to about 100 degrees F and less
on decent. I need to get around 190 and climb out or at least sometime
during the flight.
I am going to experiment with some metalized tape over the oil cooler.
I can probably do this as long as the cylinder head temps are also low.
Are other XP people having similar problems? What did you do to
solve. By the way this engine has high compression pistons and I
expected it to tend to run warmer.
Dennis Adams
N375CM 16 hours on the plane.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Annual reunion |
Down boy, down! It's only lovely brisket, ribs and great sausage!
Wait! Now I'm getting excited and hungry! Desert too? Pant, pant......
----- Original Message -----
From: Ray Thurman
To: pulsar-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, May 01, 2011 9:18 AM
Subject: Re: Pulsar-List: Annual reunion
Did somebody say Jim's barbecue!!!!!!!
Ray
On 4/28/2011 7:01 PM, Lance Goddard wrote:
Hi Greg,
My fellow builder Jerry Leever and I will coming from California so
long as it's before the last two weekends in September. No particular
preference of location (though I fondly remember Jim's Texas barbecue).
Thanks for taking this on again!
Lance Goddard
Sent from my iPad
On Apr 26, 2011, at 6:16 PM, GREGSMI@aol.com wrote:
Greetings from very hot Texas. Mark and I are back working on the
Nova and having a great time with the design. It has been very quiet on
the list, hope all is well with everyone.
I have had a few inquiries on this years reunion so am sending out
a query to see if we have enough interest to schedule an event. I would
think late September is a good time, in either Kansas or Texas.
Please let me know what you would like to do. We can always plan
an event at Oshkosh, maybe have swim and diving event. Tom, are you up
for a little mud wrestling?
I hope everyone is doing well and enjoying their Pulsar.
Take care and be safe,
Greg
Message 8
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| Subject: | A plastic dilemma - - - - solved |
Thanks for all the suggestions. I experimented with a number and found that most
would work - - to some degree.
1. The hairdryer - - helps soften the plastic, but you need at least 3 hands, and
the aluminium conducts the heat away quickly. I was able only to peel up small
edges without more than 2 hands.
2. De Solvit - - happened to have some, works to unstick the adhesive. WIll only
do 1-2mm at the edge at a time because the plastic does what it is supposed
to do and prevents any surface contamination.
3. Dunk the whole piece in hot water - - softens the plastic and enables large
pieces to be peeled off, provided the ageing process hasn't become extreme. That
is, it restores some plasticity and seems to lessen the bond, but not on the
worst affected areas.
4. Petrol, 96 octane Mogas - - - works a bit like De-Solvit, only faster. The plastic
remains intact, but the edges begin to wrinkle up if left to soak for a
bit. The petrol vapour works just as well, because areas that were not immersed
wrinkled up too. Used an old toothbrush to scrub the flaking edges. However,
this is by far the most environmentally unfriendly. It's messy and very smelly.
It also takes time.
5. Boiling water - - - the best of the lot. Clean and simple. Thankfully the pieces
I was working with were small enough and flexible enough to be partially
immersed in a large pot of boiling water, section by section. There is no visible
effect, but after about 3 minutes of immersion it was possible to peel the
plastic off in quite large pieces. It was still possible to peel for a minute
or two after taking the pieces out of the water.
Phew! Job done.
Brian
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Temperatures |
Austin,
I think that I need something as the lower temps are not recommended by
Rotax. I am going with the tape and see what happens.
Larry Boam said that the Rans people tried the thermostat method and the all
removed them as they had problems. Of course he told me this after I
installed mine in a really tight XP space.
Anyway thanks. I will let you know what happens.
Regards,
Dennis
On Mon, May 2, 2011 at 1:22 PM, Austin Moses <mosescpa@dcdi.net> wrote:
> Dennis,
>
> The first winter, I covered about 2/3 of the oil radiator with duct tape.
> It worked, but no adjustment. Next, I had built a slide affair that could
> block between 1/3 - 2/3 of the radiator. It worked ok but I removed it in
> the summer and haven't put it back. I just run with the lower temps when it
> is cool.
>
> Austin Moses
> N460GM
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Dennis Adams <ghf4986@gmail.com>
> *To:* pulsar-list@matronics.com
> *Sent:* 05/02/2011 11:34 AM
> *Subject:* Pulsar-List: Oil Temperatures
>
> All,
>
> I have posted notes several times concerning oil temps on my XP. When
> building I installed an oil thermostat per the Rotax recommendation (from
> Earls, this is a race car unit and looked better than the Rotax unit). It
> was difficult to install on an XP due to the lack of space.
>
> Well it worked great in the winter, but oil temps were way too high in the
> summer as I could not climb in order to keep them below 284 degrees F. I
> did have some grounding problems with the Dynon and the temperature sensor
> but I now know that the Dynon is reading correct temps.
>
> I flew this morning with the oil thermostat removed and now my oil temps
> are way too low (as were the cylinder head temps for the leading two
> cylinders) The outside air temperatures were -8 degrees C. On climb out
> the oil was about 132 degrees F max ( and I climbed hard) but then in level
> flight they dropped down to about 100 degrees F and less on decent. I need
> to get around 190 and climb out or at least sometime during the flight.
>
> I am going to experiment with some metalized tape over the oil cooler. I
> can probably do this as long as the cylinder head temps are also low.
>
> Are other XP people having similar problems? What did you do to solve. By
> the way this engine has high compression pistons and I expected it to tend
> to run warmer.
>
> Dennis Adams
> N375CM 16 hours on the plane.
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pulsar-List">http://www.matronhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c*
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Temperatures |
On Mon, 2 May 2011 11:34:51 -0600
Dennis Adams <ghf4986@gmail.com> wrote:
> All,
>
> I have posted notes several times concerning oil temps
>on my XP. When
> building I installed an oil thermostat per the Rotax
>recommendation (from
> Earls, this is a race car unit and looked better than
>the Rotax unit). It
> was difficult to install on an XP due to the lack of
>space.
>
> Well it worked great in the winter, but oil temps were
>way too high in the
> summer as I could not climb in order to keep them below
>284 degrees F. I
> did have some grounding problems with the Dynon and the
>temperature sensor
> but I now know that the Dynon is reading correct temps.
>
> I flew this morning with the oil thermostat removed and
>now my oil temps are
> way too low (as were the cylinder head temps for the
>leading two
> cylinders) The outside air temperatures were -8 degrees
>C. On climb out
> the oil was about 132 degrees F max ( and I climbed
>hard) but then in level
> flight they dropped down to about 100 degrees F and less
>on decent. I need
> to get around 190 and climb out or at least sometime
>during the flight.
>
> I am going to experiment with some metalized tape over
>the oil cooler. I
> can probably do this as long as the cylinder head temps
>are also low.
>
> Are other XP people having similar problems? What did
>you do to solve. By
> the way this engine has high compression pistons and I
>expected it to tend
> to run warmer.
>
> Dennis Adams
> N375CM 16 hours on the plane.
I have the same problem of temps too cold. I built a
sliding baffel to close of the cooler, it helps but I
still run cold.
Clarke
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