Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:58 AM - Re: References please -- WAS:Alternative Engine Questions (Jim Jewell)
2. 02:00 AM - Wheel pant openings (Gary)
3. 02:00 AM - Lightspeed hall effect module (Gary)
4. 05:28 AM - Andair products fuel line fitting size? (WCruiser1@aol.com)
5. 06:12 AM - Re: Lightspeed hall effect module failure (Tim Lewis)
6. 06:24 AM - Re: A moderated RV-List (Louis Willig)
7. 06:49 AM - Re: Wheel pant openings (Kyle Boatright)
8. 07:07 AM - Re: Lightspeed hall effect module (Carl Froehlich)
9. 08:23 AM - Re: Alternate Engines (Tracy Crook)
10. 08:44 AM - Re: Andair products fuel line fitting size? (Tracy Crook)
11. 08:53 AM - Re: Wheel pant openings (Tracy Crook)
12. 09:01 AM - Re: Protection diodes on starter solenoid (lm4@juno.com)
13. 09:06 AM - Re: Wheel pant openings (Randy Lervold)
14. 09:56 AM - Re: Instrument lightning systems (Noel & Yoshie Simmons)
15. 10:42 AM - Re: Protection diodes on starter solenoid (Robert McCallum)
16. 10:46 AM - Re: Protection diodes on starter solenoid (John Huft)
17. 11:01 AM - Re: Andair products fuel line fitting size? (Elsa & Henry)
18. 11:04 AM - Re: Wheel pant openings (Alex Peterson)
19. 11:07 AM - Re: Protection diodes on starter solenoid (Alex Peterson)
20. 11:16 AM - Re: Instrument lightning systems (Paul Besing)
21. 11:40 AM - Fw: lightspeed timing (John)
22. 12:43 PM - Aileron spades (Randy Compton)
23. 01:15 PM - Re: Aileron spades (Alex Peterson)
24. 01:19 PM - Experience with Van's Gascolator (Mark Phillips)
25. 02:03 PM - Re: Aileron spades (KostaLewis)
26. 02:37 PM - Re: Wheel pant openings (WALTER KERR)
27. 02:54 PM - Re: Aileron spades (Stein Bruch)
28. 03:03 PM - Re: Experience with Van's Gascolator (Michael McGee)
29. 03:19 PM - Re: Aileron spades (Doug Rozendaal)
30. 03:19 PM - Re: Aileron spades (Chris)
31. 03:36 PM - Re: Aileron spades (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
32. 03:50 PM - Re: Alternate Engines (William Davis)
33. 03:54 PM - Re: How do you secure wiring harnesses in the aft fuselage? (Miller Robert)
34. 03:56 PM - Re: Aileron spades (Larry Pardue)
35. 04:30 PM - Re: RV-List Digest: 45 Msgs - 12/14/02 (Stuart Driver)
36. 04:40 PM - Re: Aileron spades (Jerry Springer)
37. 05:12 PM - Re: Protection diodes on starter solenoid (Gert)
38. 07:02 PM - Re: Aileron spades (Jim Jewell)
39. 07:12 PM - Re: Protection diodes on starter solenoid (Vanremog@aol.com)
40. 08:14 PM - Lighter Note (Eustace Bowhay)
41. 08:26 PM - Re: wiring harnesses in the aft fuselage? now Mil-Spec? (Meketa)
42. 10:05 PM - Re: Wheel Pant Openings (Dick DeCramer)
43. 10:28 PM - Re: Aileron spades (Randall Henderson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: References please -- WAS:Alternative Engine Questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hello Phil,
I have a head full of seemingly at times random information that for one
reason or another it al got collected when I worked for a living or past
hobbies and auto-sport involvements and during the past six years or so
since I fell face first into this somewhat obsessive compulsive pastime of
building the RV6A.
Like you I am interested to learn and it seems the older I get the stronger
the interest grows.
You need not be concerned about this thread ending any time soon. It lives
too close to the needs of the average Builder, would be or want to be
homebuilder.
It's a fact that powering the aircraft designs that call for Lycoming
engines often represents half or more of the project cost. I think this
alone sends too many off in search alternative projects never mind
alternative engines. I for one would like that to change.
If I was wealthier and younger I would be up all night shoe-horning some
alternative engine or another into One of Van's creations. Most likely the
driving force would be the nay Sayers.
If the current thread fades away for a while, cruise through the archives
the last go around on this topic was quite entertaining!
Bye for now,
Jim in Kelowna
do not archive
---- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@mcleodusa.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: References please -- WAS:Alternative Engine Questions
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
<sisson@mcleodusa.net>
>
> Jim Jewell wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
> >
> > That "equally ancient V/6" that you refer to has an old Grandfather;
The
> > General Motors (Possibly Chevrolet back then) V/8 design, Is in some
> > respects quite a lot older than many would believe. The first GM push
rod
> > overhead valve V/8 was a running prototype in 1917. The pushrod rockers
> > required frequent manual oiling as they where external to the crankcase
and
> > oiling system.
> > The first GM production V/8 I think was offered publicly in 1955. This
was
> > the fore runner of most all GM engines produced since then. The 283,
327,
> > 305, 350, 400 CID. and others worked hard and have lived long and varied
> > lives around the world.
> >
> > However the term "equally ancient" is at the very least stretching your
> > point. The 4.3 Vortec V/6 that much of this alternative engine
discussion
> > seems to have centered on certainly has an old historic lineage. The
Design
> > changes that have transpired down through the years have breathed
exiting
> > new life into that old iron horse.
> > A trip to a library or a web search will provide the seeker with a very
long
> > list of design changes. From the first offering of the V/6 (I'm
uncertain as
> > to the precise year) in the seventies or eighties to the present. The
list
> > is long. Many of the changes driven by anti pollution laws, some arising
> > from the auto racing industry, a good many due to warranty issues.
> >
> > Some if not most where subtle changes. Others such as intake manifold
runner
> > design, exhaust system, combustion chamber modifications, hall effect
> > ignition and individual port fuel injection have produced a powerful
engine
> > with a good record of reliability and endurance. The marine version
seems to
> > be a popular hard worker that stands up well to conditions simular to
those
> > in aircraft.
> >
> > Due to the Aircraft industry certification process the Lycoming design
> > started out of the gate much more developed than it's automotive
> > counterparts of that era (mid thirties). As the years have passed it to
has
> > gone through changes. The changes have in the main been borne out of
better
> > materials, machining and casting proceedures, and refinments driven by
in
> > the field failure mode discoverys, the dreaded ADs {|:-(!
> >
> > The fact that the thirties technology stood the test of time so well
makes
> > this topic very interesting.
> > The fact that the automotive technology has come as far as it has is
also
> > good interesting topic material.
> > The arguable parallels of the two that this disscusion has touched on
are
> > interesting, They come at the time when gasoline and diesel burning
internal
> > combustion piston engines might be seeing the end of their development
> > stage. Some say this technology is nearing the end of its dominance as
the
> > chosen source of power what we refer to as the modern civilised world.
> >
> > Yes we are having a discussion here, All in All this discussion has been
> > edifying, sometimes humorous, wide ranging and long, This after all is
what
> > the list is about.
> >
> > This thread will run it's course and come up again. In the meantime some
> > more Experimental builders will create and put hours on their
alternatives
> > whatever they might choose. This will again result in more information
to
> > support yet another go around with this worthwhile thread.
> >
> > Please feel free to correct and or update this email as needed
> > I need to learn.
> >
> > Jim In Kelowna .
> >
>
> What web-site do you find all this history?
> I am one lycoming driver that is finding this thread very interesting and
I hope
> it never really "ends".
> Phil
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Wheel pant openings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
When cutting the opening in the wheel pants where the tire protrudes, how much
clearance did you guys provide?
Thanks,
Gary
---
Message 3
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| Subject: | Lightspeed hall effect module |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
Time: 08:25:51 PM PST US
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro@erols.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Lightspeed hall effect module timing (was failure)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro@erols.com>
Timing is checked at idle. Since the manifold pressure hose is removed
before the timing is checked, RPM does not affect timing setting.
If memory serves me right, Klaus's instructions do discuss setting timing
with a timing light.
Again the LEDs just get you in the ball park.
Carl.
Carl........RPM DOES affect the timing on the lightspeed Plasma II system. It
uses BOTH manifold pressure and RPM to decide where to set the timing. It senses
the RPM by counting the pulses it produces. It also has an RPM output which
can be hooked up to an electronic tachometer.
Gary
---
Message 4
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| Subject: | Andair products fuel line fitting size? |
--> RV-List message posted by: WCruiser1@aol.com
Last year at Sun & Fun I purchased an Andair fuel valve, gascolator and in
line filters at their display, stating I was building an RV8A. Moving into
this part of the project now, I am looking at 3/8 fitting on fuel lines and
smaller fittings required for the in line filter, fuel valve and gascolator.
Do I have the wrong size valve or are builders closing down the diameter of
the fuel lines to go through the filters and valve and then back out to the
full 3/8 size fitting through the aux fuel pump, back down for the gascolator
and then back to 3/8 into the engine driven pump?
I have an 0-360 and am curious about fuel flow on max power such as takeoff.
Any experiences, or recomendations would be appreciated.
Do not archive.
Gary Gembala
Strongsville, OH
Firewall forward RV8A
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed hall effect module failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a@earthlink.net>
> My questions are, why would you report this kind of incident
Because it could help save someone's life.
>and why would the safety board investigate an experiemental
> ignition system?
Because it could help save someone's life.
******
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: A moderated RV-List |
--> RV-List message posted by: Louis Willig <larywil@comcast.net>
At 01:57 PM 12/14/2002 -0500, you wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: JRWillJR@aol.com
Gosh, I thought we was just sitting around with some beers having a
discussion.
Perhaps the list could have moderators, long time members who would have the
power to "edit" offensive or inflammatory material. Sometimes people say
things that are meant as harmless and it does not come across that way. For a
well run forum visit www.tractorbynet . It is the most civil, friendly
place on the net. It has moderators but more than that the people are just
good people and the forum is designed to allow a wide variety of topics.
Visit www.usjabiru.com for a look at their 8 cylinder 180/200 horse
engine under going development. It is priced around 15,000 I think, not
JR,
I have been on the list for 6+ years. I have been tempted to jump in when
some people start flaming or get off on a political tangent, but I have
never done so. I found out , early on, that nearly every one of us is
normal and even after a bad day or brain fart we will quickly return to
normal. I guess there are pros and cons to a moderated list. This
particular list has done very well without moderation because the list host
(Matt Dralle) has done his job well. He also has "the button", but has
probably never had to use it.
After many years of watching/listening moderated political debates, I long
to see two candidated on their own. The ensuing screaming and arguing would
probably give us a truer picture of the candidates position and abilities.
Similarly on this list, I get a good feel for what The RV builders think of
a particular subject and I get it fast. The really cool thing about this
list is that people who are smart enough to build an airplane are smart
enough to select what works best for them ( I do not include myself since I
bought my RV-4) When a question is asked and ten responses come back, we
can easily pick out the right from the wrong, and which of the "right" is
most appropriate for us.
In the back of my mind, I know that Matt and the rest of us can control the
chaos and sift thru the posts to get the good stuff out. And there is a lot
of good stuff.
Well, I actually am pounding a few rivets to install my Digitrak. Now if I
could just see those tiny little pins and #24 wire......
-
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
255 exciting Hrs.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Wheel pant openings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
The rule of thumb here is to give a finger width's clearance. I think this
information is also in the archives.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
Subject: RV-List: Wheel pant openings
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
>
> When cutting the opening in the wheel pants where the tire protrudes, how
much clearance did you guys provide?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gary
>
>
> ---
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Lightspeed hall effect module |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro@erols.com>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gary
Subject: RV-List: Lightspeed hall effect module
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
Time: 08:25:51 PM PST US
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro@erols.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Lightspeed hall effect module timing (was failure)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro@erols.com>
Timing is checked at idle. Since the manifold pressure hose is removed
before the timing is checked, RPM does not affect timing setting.
If memory serves me right, Klaus's instructions do discuss setting timing
with a timing light.
Again the LEDs just get you in the ball park.
Carl.
Carl........RPM DOES affect the timing on the lightspeed Plasma II system.
It uses BOTH manifold pressure and RPM to decide where to set the timing.
It senses the RPM by counting the pulses it produces. It also has an RPM
output which can be hooked up to an electronic tachometer.
Gary
---
I agree - but the timing change between typical idle speeds of 700-1000 RPM
is too small to make a difference.
Carl.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Alternate Engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
Thanks for the info Bill. One last question: Where does the O-ring seal at
the prop contact the hub, the face of the flange or the hub pilot (2.25"
projection in center of hub)? The pilot on my redrive is only .25" long and
this may not be enough if the seal is at the pilot.
Tracy
> --> RV-List message posted by: "William Davis" <rvpilot@695online.com>
>
> Tracy,
>
> Oil is piped from the governor via an external line to a port at the front
> of the engine. This port is between the two halves of the front main
> bearing. This part of the bearing has a reduced diam. creating a small
> chamber there.Holes in the crank and bearing at this point conduct the oil
> into the hollow crank, then to the prop. There are 3 seals involved (1)
an
> O ring seal where the prop mates to the crankshaft flange, this one never
> gives any trouble unless damaged during installation. (2 & 3), the front
and
> rear halves of the front main bearing. Some leakage occurs there back into
> the case but the governor has enough capacity to overcome normal
clearances.
> If the clearances become too large,the prop will not function once the oil
> warms up.
>
> Bill
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Andair products fuel line fitting size? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: WCruiser1@aol.com
>
> Last year at Sun & Fun I purchased an Andair fuel valve, gascolator and in
> line filters at their display, stating I was building an RV8A. Moving
into
> this part of the project now, I am looking at 3/8 fitting on fuel lines
and
> smaller fittings required for the in line filter, fuel valve and
gascolator.
> Do I have the wrong size valve or are builders closing down the diameter
of
> the fuel lines to go through the filters and valve and then back out to
the
> full 3/8 size fitting through the aux fuel pump, back down for the
gascolator
> and then back to 3/8 into the engine driven pump?
>
> I have an 0-360 and am curious about fuel flow on max power such as
takeoff.
>
> Any experiences, or recomendations would be appreciated.
>
> Do not archive.
>
> Gary Gembala
> Strongsville, OH
> Firewall forward RV8A
Just about any intermittent internal combustion engine burns about the same
fuel per HP/hr. (BSFC about .6 lb/hp/hr) At best power mixture, the IO - 360
Lyc burns the same as my 13B rotary, about 20 GPH at full tilt. At best
economy mixture it's down to about 15 GPH, but power is down a bit. Note
that this figure has no resembalance to typical cruise fuel burn.
Tracy Crook
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Wheel pant openings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
Bernie Kerr had an interesting take on this subject that I thought made good
sense. The smaller the gap, the lower the drag so his thought was to raise
the level of the pant opening so that the lower edge of the pant was above
the point where the tire bulges around the contact patch. This requires the
smallest gap and would more than make up for the increased exposure of the
tire. Also results in less 'pant rash' on rough fields or crossing bumps.
Just a theory
Tracy
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright"
<kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
>
> The rule of thumb here is to give a finger width's clearance. I think
this
> information is also in the archives.
>
> KB
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Wheel pant openings
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
> >
> > When cutting the opening in the wheel pants where the tire protrudes,
how
> much clearance did you guys provide?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Gary
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Protection diodes on starter solenoid |
--> RV-List message posted by: lm4@juno.com
Well, That does it. I've gotta throw in my 2 cents worth.
Convention of VOLTAGE flow:--Positive to negative
Convention of CURRENT flow:--negative to positive
A. Voltage flowes the electrons down the wire to the appliance.
B. Earth or ground allows neutrons to flow up the line to the appliance.
1. Voltage is represented by black holes with plus signs in them
flowing to the right.
2. Neutrons are represented by white holes with minus signs in them
flowing to the left.
All of this aside. Can anyone come up with an axiom that will remind me
which terminal to put the blocking band onto? I keep forgetting.
Larry Mac Donald
Rochester N.Y.
do not archive
On Sat, 14 Dec 2002 18:35:19 EST Vanremog@aol.com writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 12/14/2002 12:07:21 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com writes:
>
> > The
> > "current" flow that you state going from negative to positive, is
> ELECTRON
> > flow and the conventional way of stating current flow is from
> positive to
> > negative!
>
> A brilliant mind is a terrible thing to waste ;
> ). Fortunately for me we
> have schools that teach Electronics 101, so you may wish to go see:
>
> <A
>
HREF="http://www.electronicstheory.com/html/e101-6.htm">http://www.electr
onicstheory.com/html/e101-6.htm
>
> Keep in mind that it is still just theory and your particular
> religion my
> believe the opposite.
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV 575hrs)
>
>
>
> _->
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Wheel pant openings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Be advised that different tires have different profiles and if you switch
tires you could not have enough space either for the sidewall or the tread.
Also, at least on my RV-8, the tire displaces sideways to the inside on
touchdown and scraped on the wheelpant. Upon switching to a firmer carcass
tire, Goodyear Flight Custom II, this stopped happening.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 285 hrs.
www.rv-8.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wheel pant openings
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright"
<kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
>
> The rule of thumb here is to give a finger width's clearance. I think
this
> information is also in the archives.
>
> KB
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Wheel pant openings
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
> >
> > When cutting the opening in the wheel pants where the tire protrudes,
how
> much clearance did you guys provide?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Gary
> >
> >
> > ---
> >
> >
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Instrument lightning systems |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel@blueskyaviation.net>
Bruno Dionne
I have lighted 4 panels now installed only the UMA lights. Seems the fiber
lights don't have a constant light all the way around the instrument.
Noel and Yoshie Simmons
Blue Sky Aviation, Inc.
"We do builder assistance!"
Toll Free: 866-859-0390
info@blueskyaviation.net
www.blueskyaviation.net
Do not archive
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Protection diodes on starter solenoid |
--> RV-List message posted by: Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
lm4@juno.com wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: lm4@juno.com
>
> Well, That does it. I've gotta throw in my 2 cents worth.
> Convention of VOLTAGE flow:--Positive to negative
> Convention of CURRENT flow:--negative to positive
> A. Voltage flowes the electrons down the wire to the appliance.
> B. Earth or ground allows neutrons to flow up the line to the appliance.
> 1. Voltage is represented by black holes with plus signs in them
> flowing to the right.
> 2. Neutrons are represented by white holes with minus signs in them
> flowing to the left.
> All of this aside. Can anyone come up with an axiom that will remind me
> which terminal to put the blocking band onto? I keep forgetting.
> Larry Mac Donald
> Rochester N.Y.
> do not archive
My own private little convention within my own mind which I use to remember is;
The band on the
device and the bar on the symbol represent the negative sign and opposing signs
oppose the flow of
(anything electrical) (you fill in whether you wish to use current, electrons,
positrons or
whatever) and therefore you connect the banded end to the more positive terminal
of the device.
Band looks like minus sign, opposing signs oppose flow, therefore band goes to
positive. (when used
for blocking)
Please don't nit pic as to whether or not opposing signs oppose flow. This is just
a simple memory
jogging device.
--
Bob McC
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 16
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| Subject: | Protection diodes on starter solenoid |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Huft" <rv8tor@lazy8.net>
Even though I are an electical unganear, I forget about anodes and cathodes.
One of sources of confusion during this discussion has been that the
civilian world uses a "positive current flow" model (a.k.a. "hole" flow),
and the military world uses negative current flow ("electron" flow). I will
refrain from comments about the military mind.
The way I keep it straight is to look at the schematic symbol for a
diode...a arrowhead with a band across the pointed end. A forward biased
diode will flow postive current in the direction of the arrow with a 0.6 V
drop across it. It will block current up to its max voltage rating in the
other direction. The band on the diode package corresponds to the band on
the symbol.
So, for a spike catching application, the band on the package should be
toward the positive voltage, and the other end toward ground.
John Huft
RV8 Pagosa Springs, CO
p.s. Larry, 2 cents is too much for your advise.
Voltage does not flow, it is a force.
neutrons are chargeless (neutral), so they do not enter into the picture.
sorry, no insult intended
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of lm4@juno.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Protection diodes on starter solenoid
--> RV-List message posted by: lm4@juno.com
Well, That does it. I've gotta throw in my 2 cents worth.
Convention of VOLTAGE flow:--Positive to negative
Convention of CURRENT flow:--negative to positive
A. Voltage flowes the electrons down the wire to the appliance.
B. Earth or ground allows neutrons to flow up the line to the
appliance.
1. Voltage is represented by black holes with plus signs in them
flowing to the right.
2. Neutrons are represented by white holes with minus signs in them
flowing to the left.
All of this aside. Can anyone come up with an axiom that will remind me
which terminal to put the blocking band onto? I keep forgetting.
Larry Mac Donald
Rochester N.Y.
do not archive
On Sat, 14 Dec 2002 18:35:19 EST Vanremog@aol.com writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 12/14/2002 12:07:21 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com writes:
>
> > The
> > "current" flow that you state going from negative to positive, is
> ELECTRON
> > flow and the conventional way of stating current flow is from
> positive to
> > negative!
>
> A brilliant mind is a terrible thing to waste ;
> ). Fortunately for me we
> have schools that teach Electronics 101, so you may wish to go see:
>
> <A
>
HREF="http://www.electronicstheory.com/html/e101-6.htm">http://www.electr
onicstheory.com/html/e101-6.htm
>
> Keep in mind that it is still just theory and your particular
> religion my
> believe the opposite.
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV 575hrs)
>
>
> _->
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Andair products fuel line fitting size? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
I bought the Andair fuel valve and Andair gascolator. Both have 3/8"
fittings. I do not have an in-line filter for two reasons: First, the
gascolator has a very fine mesh filter element cylinder that can be
unscrewed from the body and has 3 (or 4, I forget which) mesh sections round
the cylinder. Second, I followed, what I think was a brilliant idea of
Eustace Bowhay and Jim Rowe to mount the gascolator in the space between the
wing root and fuselage side. (As published in the August 96 RVator).Nice and
cool there and at a lower point than available on the firewall. Also, my
installation is BEFORE the Facet fuel-pump, thus preventing tank crud
getting into it. I have easy access to it through a hinged trap-door section
in the bottom portion of the WRF. This was done on my 6-A. The RVator
article says it should work on the 8's but doubt there is enough space to
mount it there on the 4's.
The "proof-of-the-pudding" fuel-flow test, with the A/C set at 17.5 degree
climb angle and 2 1/2 USG in each tank, that little Facet pump supplied fuel
at a rate of 36 USG per hour as measured right at the carb fitting! (Both
tanks).
Cheers!!-------Henry Hore
Message 18
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| Subject: | Wheel pant openings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
> Be advised that different tires have different profiles and
> if you switch tires you could not have enough space either
> for the sidewall or the tread. Also, at least on my RV-8, the
> tire displaces sideways to the inside on touchdown and
> scraped on the wheelpant. Upon switching to a firmer carcass
> tire, Goodyear Flight Custom II, this stopped happening.
Not only is what Randy says above true, one must consider flat tires. I
had a good finger width on the nose wheel fairing, yet it got a little
chewed up when I had a flat tire. It probably has about .75" clearance
now.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 237 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 19
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| Subject: | Protection diodes on starter solenoid |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
> >
> > Well, That does it. I've gotta throw in my 2 cents worth.
> > Convention of VOLTAGE flow:--Positive to negative
> > Convention of CURRENT flow:--negative to positive
> > A. Voltage flowes the electrons down the wire to the
> appliance.
OK, here is the way to tell how to install the diode: put two diodes on
the solenoid in parallel, one of them one way and the other the other
way. Connect to battery, energize solenoid and look for the one that
smokes. The other one is installed the correct way. Next thing we
know, someone will talk about priming the diodes.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 237 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Instrument lightning systems |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
Agreed. The UMA lights are more expensive, but worth every penny. It is
really nice to have well lit instruments at night. They are really cool
looking, too! On my next airplane, I will use them again, for sure.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel@blueskyaviation.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Instrument lightning systems
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons"
<noel@blueskyaviation.net>
>
>
> Bruno Dionne
>
> I have lighted 4 panels now installed only the UMA lights. Seems the
fiber
> lights don't have a constant light all the way around the instrument.
>
> Noel and Yoshie Simmons
> Blue Sky Aviation, Inc.
> "We do builder assistance!"
> Toll Free: 866-859-0390
> info@blueskyaviation.net
> www.blueskyaviation.net
>
> Do not archive
>
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Fw: lightspeed timing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
Rv-Listers - I asked Klaus about the timing question brought up by a dual
Lightspeed Ignition user (I am one also) and here is Klaus' reply:
John at Salida, CO
----- Original Message -----
From: "Klaus Savier" <klaus@lightspeedengineering.com>
Subject: Re: lightspeed timing
> Dear John,
>
> Thanks for letting us know about this. We are not monitoring any lists.
>
> We have always recommended final timing adjustment and test using a strobe
> light please refer to the current manual on the website. It is
technically not
> possible for the LED light to be more than 5 degrees off. I suspect that
the
> user who found it to be way off had removed the cover of the Hall Effect
Module
> and rotated it 30 or 60 degrees when he re-installed it.
>
> I would appreciate it if you could post this information for us.
>
> Regards,
> Klaus Savier.
>
>
> John wrote:
>
> > Klaus,
> >
> > I have been running with dual Hall Effect units for some time now and
have
> > been 'happy." Tonight a posted message on the 'Matronics RV Net' had one
> > dual Hall Effect user stating that the timing as set using the LED
lights
> > resulted in 35 to 50-degree BTDC timing, and this poster strongly
> > recommended setting the units using a timing light. I would appreciate
your
> > comments.
> >
> > His message didn't say at what RPM he set the 25-degrees BTDC or any
other
> > technical info except to say the timing was off by the 35 to 50-degrees
his
> > timing light showed.
> >
> > would appreciate your views.
> >
> > John at Salida, Co
> >
> > n1cxo320@salidaco.com
>
>
Message 22
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Compton" <rdcompton@earthlink.net>
Has anyone tried putting spades on the ailerons? If so, did you fabricate
them yourself or buy some "off the shelf"? How difficult was the
installation?
On the other hand, even if some could be made to work, would the spades put
unsafe stresses on the structure?
Randy Compton
RV-3 N84VF
Gulf Breeze, FL
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
>
> Has anyone tried putting spades on the ailerons?
Why?
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 237 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Experience with Van's Gascolator |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
Has anyone using Van's gascolator (was GAS-3, now GAS-4 in the catalog)
had any problems with servicing or leaks? I have seen much discussion
over the merit of using gascolators here on the list for years, but
would prefer hard experience in deciding on whether to use this one.
The Andair is nice, just too pricey for my pocketbook, so if the Van's
unit does the job well, I'd like to know!
Thanks from the PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips
Message 25
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--> RV-List message posted by: "KostaLewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
>> Has anyone tried putting spades on the ailerons?
>Why?
Exactly. You will be hard pressed to find controls as harmonized and
perfectly balanced as those on the RV series. Why add weight and
complexity for something you may not need?
Unless you want to, of course.
Michael
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Wheel pant openings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "WALTER KERR" <kerrjb@msn.com>
Bill Davis has done a superb job with the opening on the 8 after destroying
his orignals by dropping into a tortoise gopher hole :>(
Bill actually trace the outer perimeter of the wheel which made a very tight
gap. He put more gap at the rear than the front on the thought that on
landing, the tire bulges more to the rear than the front does. (just another
theory but probably true)
Bill replaced his vans with a sam james pair so we are finally going to get
an apples to apples comparison by a very fair judge:>)
Bernie Kerr
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wheel pant openings
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
>
>
> Bernie Kerr had an interesting take on this subject that I thought made
good
> sense. The smaller the gap, the lower the drag so his thought was to
raise
> the level of the pant opening so that the lower edge of the pant was above
> the point where the tire bulges around the contact patch. This requires
the
> smallest gap and would more than make up for the increased exposure of the
> tire. Also results in less 'pant rash' on rough fields or crossing bumps.
>
> Just a theory
>
> Tracy
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright"
> <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
> >
> > The rule of thumb here is to give a finger width's clearance. I think
> this
> > information is also in the archives.
> >
> > KB
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: Wheel pant openings
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
> > >
> > > When cutting the opening in the wheel pants where the tire protrudes,
> how
> > much clearance did you guys provide?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Gary
>
>
Message 27
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Prae Tell Why???
Stein Bruch
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy Compton
Subject: RV-List: Aileron spades
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Compton" <rdcompton@earthlink.net>
Has anyone tried putting spades on the ailerons? If so, did you fabricate
them yourself or buy some "off the shelf"? How difficult was the
installation?
On the other hand, even if some could be made to work, would the spades put
unsafe stresses on the structure?
Randy Compton
RV-3 N84VF
Gulf Breeze, FL
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Experience with Van's Gascolator |
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
At 15:15 12/15/2002 -0600, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
>
>Has anyone using Van's gascolator (was GAS-3, now GAS-4 in the catalog)
>had any problems with servicing or leaks? I have seen much discussion
>over the merit of using gascolators here on the list for years, but
>would prefer hard experience in deciding on whether to use this one.
>The Andair is nice, just too pricey for my pocketbook, so if the Van's
>unit does the job well, I'd like to know!
>
>Thanks from the PossumWorks in TN
>Mark Phillips
Mine has been working fine since '96.
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron spades |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Compton" <rdcompton@earthlink.net>
>
> Has anyone tried putting spades on the ailerons?
No flames intended here, but, have you ever flown an RV??????
The LAST thing in the world it needs is spades! Have you ever flown an
airplane with spades? Spades are an attempt to make a lesser design fly
like an RV.
At any speed where you should be leaning on the ailerons, they control
forces are very light. As you approach 200 mph they stiffen up a little,
still they are perfectly harmonious and the stiffness only serves to warn
you that you are smokin at speeds far in excess of the manuvering speed and
you might want to push more carefully on all the control surfaces.
Remember, an RV is not a "great aerobatic airplane." It does great
aerobatics, but attempting to expand it's aerobatic envelope might lead to a
bad day.
DO NOT put spades on an RV. That of course is only my opinion..... You can
do what ever you choose. That is why they call it "experimental."
In my humble opinion....
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
P.S. If you want to tackle an RV "problem," figure out how to stop the
aileron rumble at full deflection. (problem is too strong a word, "slight
annoyance" would be better.)
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron spades |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris <chrisw3@cox.net>
What are Aileron spades?
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206 (home)
chrisw@programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
do not archive
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron spades |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
I was told that the aileron spades on one aerobatic biplane slowed it down by
5 knots.
Since the ailerons on my RV-3 only seem to get heavy above the maneuvering
speed, I would guess that you do not want to lighten the ailerons.
If you're looking for additional drag, just put all of the antenna's on the
outside of the aircraft. (The most I've seen on a RV (so far) is nine (9)
external antenna's.)
:-)
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Alternate Engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: "William Davis" <rvpilot@695online.com>
Tracy,
At the hub pilot. I don't think that .25" is going to do it. If memory
serves, the pilot is .5 to .75" long. Don't have one handy that I can
measure.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternate Engines
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
>
>
> Thanks for the info Bill. One last question: Where does the O-ring seal
at
> the prop contact the hub, the face of the flange or the hub pilot (2.25"
> projection in center of hub)? The pilot on my redrive is only .25" long
and
> this may not be enough if the seal is at the pilot.
>
> Tracy
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "William Davis" <rvpilot@695online.com>
> >
> > Tracy,
> >
> > Oil is piped from the governor via an external line to a port at the
front
> > of the engine. This port is between the two halves of the front main
> > bearing. This part of the bearing has a reduced diam. creating a small
> > chamber there.Holes in the crank and bearing at this point conduct the
oil
> > into the hollow crank, then to the prop. There are 3 seals involved (1)
> an
> > O ring seal where the prop mates to the crankshaft flange, this one
never
> > gives any trouble unless damaged during installation. (2 & 3), the front
> and
> > rear halves of the front main bearing. Some leakage occurs there back
into
> > the case but the governor has enough capacity to overcome normal
> clearances.
> > If the clearances become too large,the prop will not function once the
oil
> > warms up.
> >
> > Bill
>
>
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: How do you secure wiring harnesses in the aft fuselage? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Miller Robert <rmiller3@earthlink.net>
It appears that some confusion exists in some of these notes as to the
expressed point.
So here it is:
Plastic ties are fine.
Plastic wrap is not fine.
Robert "gift for the obvious" Miller
Meketa wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Meketa" <acgm@gvtc.com>
>
> Hello Yall
>
> The term Mil-Spec itself has nothing do with the flammability or quality
> of a particular item, just that it meets a certain specification. If my wire
> ties are giving off enough fumes to cause a problem I will likely wish
> I had a parachute.
>
> George Meketa
> RV-8, N444TX, 219.1 hours
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: How do you secure wiring harnesses in the aft
> fuselage?
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> >
> > > The plastic wrap makes me a little nervous because of flammability, and
> > toxic
> > > vapors that could result from a short situation, etc.
> > > Electrical tape placed strategically with good flammability ratings
> > instead?
> > > Robert
> >
> > I must agree. That is why my plastic cable ties are all Mil Spec.
> > I got them at Terminal Town
> > http://www.terminaltown.com/index.htm
> > The page with the ties is
> > http://www.terminaltown.com/Pages/Page8.html
> >
> > They are made by Thomas&Bates
> > The trademark is CATAMOUNT
> > I have two sizes. The small are working for almost everything.
> > Part # L-5-30-9-C Intermediate Cable Tie
> > Length 5.6"
> > Width 0.130"
> > Tensile Strength 30 lbs / 134N
> > Temp Rating 185F / 85C
> > Max Wire Bundle 1.25"
> > Tool / Setting L-200 / 3-5
> > Material Nylon Natural
> > Military Standard MS-3367-5-9
> >
> > Also available are various wire bundling products for high temperature
> > areas. Check out this page:
> > http://www.terminaltown.com/Pages/Page206.html
> >
> > I am striving to have every component of my aircraft the best possible.
> > Might be one of the reasons that I have been building for 7 years. One of
> > the others reasons would be that I have to work over 80 hours a week to
> pay
> > for it all.
> >
> >
> > Norman Hunger
> > RV6A Delta BC
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Norman wrote:
> > >
> > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> > > >
> > > > > I'm building and RV-9A and am wondering how you
> > > > > are securing the aft fuselage wiring. The wire goes
> > > > > through snap bushings on the bulkheads, but how do
> > > > > you secure it between the bulkheads? Do you just
> > > > > lace it together and let it dangle?
> > > >
> > > > Does the RV9 use J-stringers to stiffen the fuselage side skins like
> my
> > > > RV6A?
> > > > I bundled my wires in plastic wrap then laid them in the J-stringers.
> A
> > few
> > > > holes and some mil spec plastic tie wraps and they are very secure. I
> > used
> > > > Van's snap bushings at the bulkheads.
> > > >
> > > > Norman Hunger
> > > > RV6A Delta BC
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron spades |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Chris <chrisw3@cox.net>
>
> What are Aileron spades?
>
A kludge attempt to get RV aileron forces on airplanes of inferior control
harmony.
They are paddles attached to and parallel to the ailerons that project
across the airflow when the ailerons are deflected, thereby reducing stick
force.
Do not archive
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 45 Msgs - 12/14/02 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stuart Driver" <sdrivers@aaahawk.com>
Help! I have to get 5 hours logged with a CFI (including 10 take offs and
landings) in order to get insurance coverage for my recently purchased RV4.
Does anyone know where I could achieve this in South Florida. RV6 or RV4
time is acceptable TIA SSD Do not archive.
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV-List Digest Server" <rv-list-digest@matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List Digest: 45 Msgs - 12/14/02
> *
>
> ==================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> ==================================================
>
> Today's complete RV-List Digest can be also be found in either
> of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
> formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked
> Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII
> version of the RV-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic
> text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list/Digest.RV-List.2002-12-14.html
>
> Text Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list/Digest.RV-List.2002-12-14.txt
>
>
> ================================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ================================================
>
>
> RV-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Sat 12/14/02: 45
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 12:18 AM - Re: RV-List Digest: 63 Msgs - 12/12/02
(j1j2h3@juno.com)
> 2. 03:49 AM - RV-8 Fuselage Jig ()
> 3. 04:30 AM - Van's instrument lighting ? (BillRVSIX@aol.com)
> 4. 05:35 AM - Re: Service Bulletin (Rick Galati)
> 5. 07:20 AM - Re: How do you secure wiring harnesses in the aft
fuselage? (Sam Buchanan)
> 6. 07:31 AM - Re: Alternate Engines (Bobby Hester)
> 7. 08:04 AM - Re: Protection diodes on starter solenoid (Charlie and
Tupper England)
> 8. 08:05 AM - Re: Protection diodes on starter solenoid
(RV4PatA@aol.com)
> 9. 08:31 AM - Re: Alternate Engines (lm4@juno.com)
> 10. 09:20 AM - Re: Protection diodes on starter solenoid (Gert)
> 11. 09:36 AM - Alternate Engines (Eustace Bowhay)
> 12. 09:51 AM - Re: Protection diodes on starter solenoid (Robert
McCallum)
> 13. 10:09 AM - Re: Alternate Engines (Dr. Leathers)
> 14. 10:45 AM - Re: Princeton capacitive fuel level probes (Eustace
Bowhay)
> 15. 11:01 AM - Alternate Engines, suggestions, etc (JRWillJR@aol.com)
> 16. 11:09 AM - Re: Protection diodes on starter solenoid (Elsa &
Henry)
> 17. 11:28 AM - Sport Aviation Mag and a Scanner (Not RV-Related)
(Gannon, Terence)
> 18. 11:46 AM - Re: TBO (Kevin Horton)
> 19. 12:04 PM - Re: Protection diodes on starter solenoid (Elsa &
Henry)
> 20. 12:14 PM - Re: Protection diodes on starter solenoid (Jim Jewell)
> 21. 12:19 PM - Re: How do you secure wiring harnesses in the aft
fuselage? (Miller Robert)
> 22. 12:32 PM - Re: Alternate Engines (Tracy Crook)
> 23. 12:37 PM - Re: sliders & tip-up (Norman)
> 24. 12:55 PM - Re: Airfoil Diagram & Van's Fuel Valve (Norman)
> 25. 01:16 PM - Re: TBO (Jerry Springer)
> 26. 01:23 PM - Seat Belt Weights (Norman)
> 27. 01:28 PM - Re: Protection diodes on starter solenoid (Todd Houg)
> 28. 01:28 PM - Re: Airfoil Diagram & Van's Fuel Valve (Tracy Crook)
> 29. 01:36 PM - Re: Protection diodes on starter solenoid (Charlie and
Tupper England)
> 30. 01:37 PM - Re: Issue with upper baggage bulkhead (Dave Stewart)
> 31. 02:15 PM - Re: Airfoil Diagram & Van's Fuel Valve (Kevin Horton)
> 32. 02:59 PM - Re: Airfoil Diagram & Van's Fuel Valve (Alex Peterson)
> 33. 03:36 PM - Re: RV-8 Fuselage Jig (Phil Sisson, Litchfield
Aerobatic Club)
> 34. 03:38 PM - Re: Protection diodes on starter solenoid
(Vanremog@aol.com)
> 35. 05:07 PM - Re: Protection diodes on starter solenoid (Elsa &
Henry)
> 36. 05:40 PM - Re: Alternate Engines (William Davis)
> 37. 06:17 PM - Re: Alternate Engines (Tedd McHenry)
> 38. 06:33 PM - Re: Airfoil Diagram & Van's Fuel Valve (Finn Lassen)
> 39. 06:43 PM - Re: Lightspeed hall effect module failure (Dave
Bristol)
> 40. 06:45 PM - Instrument lightning systems (bruno)
> 41. 06:48 PM - Re: TBO (Dave Bristol)
> 42. 08:12 PM - Re: How do you secure wiring harnesses in the aft
fuselage? (Meketa)
> 43. 08:18 PM - Re: References please -- WAS:Alternative Engine
Questions (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
> 44. 09:18 PM - Re: RV-8 Fuselage Jig (mark phillips)
> 45. 10:05 PM - Re: RV-8 Fuselage Jig (Phil Sisson, Litchfield
Aerobatic Club)
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 12:18:32 AM PST US
> Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 63 Msgs - 12/12/02
> From: j1j2h3@juno.com
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: j1j2h3@juno.com
>
> Hey Doc
>
> Don't let it scare you away. Some 3000+ guys (actually flying, plus
> those that are past this stage) have figured out how to do it, so you can
> too.
>
> Jim Hasper - RV-7 just starting empennage
>
> Do not archive
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
> >
> > <snip>
> > Hey Guys,
> >
> > I'm still trying to decide which airplane to build. I see a lot of
> > discussion about the difficulty of preparing the sliders and tip-ups.
> Does
> > anyone sell a pre-made lid for these things? Why are the ones in Van's
> kits
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 03:49:58 AM PST US
> From: <andrew.wereley@earthlink.net>
> Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Fuselage Jig
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: <andrew.wereley@earthlink.net>
>
>
> Free to good home, one RV-8 fuselage jig. I have recently moved my
project
> out of the jig and now I need to get the jig out of my garage. I'm happy
to
> donate it to whomever is willing to haul it away. It's straight and I'm
> pleased with the way my fuse is proceeding.
>
> I'm located in Vacaville, CA which is about 40 mi. northeast of San
Francisco.
> If we cut the jig in half, it will fit in the bed of a pickup with the
gate
> down and can be spliced back together later. Please reply off list to
> awereley@hotmail.com.
>
>
> Andy Wereley
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 3
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 04:30:01 AM PST US
> From: BillRVSIX@aol.com
> Subject: RV-List: Van's instrument lighting ?
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: BillRVSIX@aol.com
>
> Hello IM trying to figure out the breaker size for van's lighted
instruments.
> I have six lighted instrument connecting to a breaker but I don't know how
> many amps or watts the lights are to figure out the breaker and wire size.
> its a 12 volt system.
>
> 2 ?-- My six flight instruments will all be lite by the EL light bezels
and I
> was wondering if any one new if the van's lighted instruments are going to
> match or look the same color white/blue color as the light bezels or is it
> such a problem to match lighted instruments I shouldn't worry about it.
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 4
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 05:35:10 AM PST US
> From: "Rick Galati" <rick07x@earthlink.net>
> Subject: RV-List: Re: Service Bulletin
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" <rick07x@earthlink.net>
>
>
> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
>
> To
> check the small hoses you could take a strong string and blow it through
> the
> hose , then tie a small cloth on the end and pull it through.
> If that isn't
> fancy enough ; use a rifle cleaning rod .
>
>
> RV-4 , N1191X ,
> Flying Now
> Charleston, Arkansas
>
>
> Unless I am missing something here, the string trick is
> impractical since the fittings installed on both ends of the VA-133 have
an
> opening of only .154 dia. It would take a pretty small cloth affixed to
> one end of the string to pass through such a small opening. Then, once
> inside the hose, it would have no way to break loose a possible curl in
the
> material outlined in the service bulletin. I'm not sure how a rifle
cleaning rod
>
> (do they come in such a small diameter?) would help either. Bottom line is
> whatever you insert into this 7/16" hose must pass through a .154
gateway.
>
>
> --- Rick Galati
>
> --- rick07x@earthlink.net
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 5
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 07:20:23 AM PST US
> From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: How do you secure wiring harnesses in the aft
fuselage?
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>
>
> Norman wrote:
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> >
> > > The plastic wrap makes me a little nervous because of flammability,
and
> > toxic
> > > vapors that could result from a short situation, etc.
> > > Electrical tape placed strategically with good flammability ratings
> > instead?
> > > Robert
> >
> > I must agree. That is why my plastic cable ties are all Mil Spec.
> <snip>
> >
> > I am striving to have every component of my aircraft the best possible.
> > Might be one of the reasons that I have been building for 7 years. One
of
> > the others reasons would be that I have to work over 80 hours a week to
pay
> > for it all.
> >
> > Norman Hunger
> > RV6A Delta BC
>
>
> I certainly find no fault with building high quality into our planes. If
> you are concerned about flammability in wire bundles.......STOP.... and
> reexamine your wiring architecture! The reason we install breakers
> and/or fuses is to achieve a wiring architecture where there is no
> possibility of wires getting hot enough to melt. There is no reason to
> have ANY wires longer than a few inches that are not protected by either
> a breaker, fuse, or fusible link. Wires that are bundled together in the
> fuse or wing most definitely should be protected by devices that will
> trip or blow in milliseconds after a short occurs, long before
> flammability becomes an issue.
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6, Bob Nuckolls disciple)
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 6
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 07:31:54 AM PST US
> From: Bobby Hester <bhester@apex.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternate Engines
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@apex.net>
>
> Jim Jewell wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
> >
> >I think you do! go ahead say more Please!
> >For instance start by telling us all where we can all find a used,
> >reasonably low time, flight ready O-320 or O-360 Lycoming engine for
> >$5000.00 USD. If you can supply a reliable source that can fulfill the
> >demand we will all grant you the fact that you need not say more! Oh and
> >I'll take four of them please.
> >The last time I checked Lycomings that fit that description where going
for
> >about $15000.00 and up. This kind of pricing driven by the current and
> >ongoing shortage of supply is one among a number of driving forces that
have
> >led us into this disscusion in the first place.
> >I see that you fly an RV4 How about selling one of us your engine for
that
> >five grand. :)!
> >
> >Jim in Kelowna
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: <Oldsfolks@aol.com>
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: RV-List: Alternate Engines
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
> >>
> >>I still subscribe to what Van said when the RV-4 first came out .
> >>Someone asked Van what engine conversions could be used . He Said, " The
> >>
> >>
> >best
> >
> >
> >>conversion I can think of is , take 5 thousand dollars and convert it to
a
> >>used Lycoming ".
> >>No need to say more !
> >>do not archive
> >>
> >>
> >>RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
> >>Charleston, Arkansas
> >>
>
> Nal, nal, Lucy, Let me splain ;-)
> Best conversion for a new Lycoming engine is: take $5,000 dollars (and
> buy fuel) and make it a used Lycoming engine!
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Working on the wings :-)
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 7
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 08:04:44 AM PST US
> From: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Protection diodes on starter solenoid
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie and Tupper England
<cengland@netdoor.com>
>
> Vanremog@aol.com wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
> >
> > In a message dated 12/13/2002 11:29:51 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> > elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com writes:
> >
> >
> >>The stripe on a diode indicates the cathode side of it. Current
> >>flows from the anode side (+, positive) to the cathode side (-
negative)
> >
> >
> > Au contrare Pierre! A diode is forward biased (conducting) when the
cathode
>
> > is made more negative than the anode and the current flows from negative
to
> > positive.
> >
> > -GV (RV-6A N1GV 575hrs)
> >
>
> Well, this thread won't be anywhere near as useful as the auto engine
thread,
> but it could be a lot of fun...
>
> So, let's get it rolling. First, are we discussing electron flow or hole
flow?
>
> Charlie
>
> (Please note emoticon: ;-) )
>
> do not archive
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 8
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 08:05:40 AM PST US
> From: RV4PatA@aol.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Protection diodes on starter solenoid
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: RV4PatA@aol.com
>
> Doug,
>
> I always leave the elect. buss off during engine start. That much load
on
> the system does weird things.
>
> Pat Allender
> RV-4
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 9
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 08:31:26 AM PST US
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternate Engines
> From: lm4@juno.com
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: lm4@juno.com
>
> Right Jim,
> This 5,000 conversion, that Van has mentioned, has been brought
> forward from the 80,s. A few years ago I heard him say 7,000 and
> mid-time.
> And ,of course, that would be without accessories.
> Larry Mac Donald
> Rochester N.Y.
> do not archive
>
>
> On Fri, 13 Dec 2002 21:36:02 -0800 "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
> writes:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
> >
> > I think you do! go ahead say more Please!
> > For instance start by telling us all where we can all find a used,
> > reasonably low time, flight ready O-320 or O-360 Lycoming engine for
> > $5000.00 USD. If you can supply a reliable source that can fulfill
> > the
> > demand we will all grant you the fact that you need not say more! Oh
> > and
> > I'll take four of them please.
> > The last time I checked Lycomings that fit that description where
> > going for
> > about $15000.00 and up. This kind of pricing driven by the current
> > and
> > ongoing shortage of supply is one among a number of driving forces
> > that have
> > led us into this disscusion in the first place.
> > I see that you fly an RV4 How about selling one of us your engine
> > for that
> > five grand. :)!
> >
> > Jim in Kelowna
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <Oldsfolks@aol.com>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: Alternate Engines
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
> > >
> > > I still subscribe to what Van said when the RV-4 first came out .
> > > Someone asked Van what engine conversions could be used . He Said,
> > " The
> > best
> > > conversion I can think of is , take 5 thousand dollars and convert
> > it to a
> > > used Lycoming ".
> > > No need to say more !
> > > do not archive
> > >
> > >
> > > RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
> > > Charleston, Arkansas
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > _->
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 10
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 09:20:10 AM PST US
> From: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Protection diodes on starter solenoid
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
>
> And of course we'll have to consider layman's knowledge that 'current'
> flows from positive to negative by convention and hence positive holes
> and that electrons really flow from negative to positive.
>
>
> BUT, just to boggle the mind, an electron really only moves a few inches
> an hour down the wire, so, it takes quite a while for the electron
> entering at the negative side to flow all the way to the end of the wire
> say from the battery to to the starter which of course is incorrect
> because being an electron it would move from the starter to the battery
> positive terminal and if your starter and engine are working the
> electron will actually never reach the battery because the time span is
> too short and if it never reaches the battery why does my starter work.
> which brings up the fact that static electricicty really is not static
> because when I am statically charged I can make a spark jump which is a
> flow of electrons which would make it dynamic and of course considering
> that electrons don't flow fast through wires, what really made the spark
> jump as it went almost too fast for me to see. okay geting of horse now
> ;-) Isn't electrics fun
>
>
> Charlie and Tupper England wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie and Tupper England
<cengland@netdoor.com>
> >
> > Vanremog@aol.com wrote:
> >
> >>--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
> >>
> >>In a message dated 12/13/2002 11:29:51 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> >>elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com writes:
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>The stripe on a diode indicates the cathode side of it. Current
> >>>flows from the anode side (+, positive) to the cathode side (-
negative)
> >>>
> >>
> >>Au contrare Pierre! A diode is forward biased (conducting) when the
cathode
>
> >>is made more negative than the anode and the current flows from negative
to
> >>positive.
> >>
> >>-GV (RV-6A N1GV 575hrs)
> >>
> >>
> >
> > Well, this thread won't be anywhere near as useful as the auto engine
thread,
>
> > but it could be a lot of fun...
> >
> > So, let's get it rolling. First, are we discussing electron flow or hole
flow?
> >
> > Charlie
> >
> > (Please note emoticon: ;-) )
> >
> > do not archive
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 11
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 09:36:35 AM PST US
> From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
> Subject: RV-List: Alternate Engines
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
>
> This subject has been beat to death this past week but regardless of each
ones
> personal opinion we desperately need a reliable source of power for our
RV's that
> could be had for say 10,000 firewall forward.
>
> As it stands now the cost of the new Lycomings eliminates many potential
builders
> and this is a shame. Van has succeeded in giving us the worlds best
kitbuilt
> at a very affordable price, now it is up to someone to come up with
suitable
> power at a affordable price. From what I have picked out of the past
week's discussion
> it seems that we are getting closer.
>
> I have no problem with the development of automotive power and encourage
those
> who are trying and would be more than willing to bolt one on the front of
my aircraft
> if it could meet my list of qualifications.
>
> The installed weight be no heavier than a Lycoming of comparable power.
> Be able to fly in formation with another same model Lyco RV both using the
same
> manifold pressure.
> Be able to run a Hartzell constant speed prop.
> Fit into a cowling that would not take away from the good looks of an RV.
>
> I think it can be done or maybe is already.
>
> The RV list gets carried away once and awhile and one is tempted to push
the un-subscribe
> button but then pause for a moment and think about all the good that
> comes out of it. We are fortunate to have such a list especially during
the
> building process.
>
> Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 12
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 09:51:42 AM PST US
> From: Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Protection diodes on starter solenoid
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Robert McCallum
<robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
>
> Gert wrote:
> > ;-) Isn't electrics fun
>
> Yup !!!!
> --
> Bob McC
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 13
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 10:09:32 AM PST US
> From: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternate Engines
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
>
> > >
> > The only conversion I'm interested in, is the conversion of avgas to
> smoke. As much, and as often as possible!!
>
> DOC
>
> do not archive
> > >Subject: RV-List: Alternate Engines
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >>--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
> > >>
> > >>I still subscribe to what Van said when the RV-4 first came out .
> > >>Someone asked Van what engine conversions could be used . He Said, "
> > >>
> >
> > Nal, nal, Lucy, Let me splain ;-)
> > Best conversion for a new Lycoming engine is: take $5,000 dollars (and
> > buy fuel) and make it a used Lycoming engine!
> >
> > --
> > Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> > Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> > RV7A Working on the wings :-)
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 14
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 10:45:55 AM PST US
> From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Princeton capacitive fuel level probes
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
>
> Hi Mark:
>
> I am using the VM1000 in my 6A and the fuel level probes that came with
the
> kit. They are probes that go the full length of the tank top to bottom. I
> installed them along the back baffle, easily done when the rear baffle is
> of. They have a threaded end and screw into a fitting riveted into the
lower
> rear corner that does not interfere with the inspection cover. the
> calibration screws are in the threaded end and are easily reached with the
> root fairing off. If for any reason they had to be removed it is just a
> matter of taking the tank of and unscrewing the probe.
>
> These probes may not be compatible with your installation but may be worth
> looking at.
>
> Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B. C.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <czechsix@juno.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Princeton capacitive fuel level probes
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
> >
> > Guys,
> >
> > Is anyone out there using Princeton capacitive fuel level probes? Grand
> Rapids Technologies is selling them with their EIS engine monitor, and
they
> are available pre-bent to fit the RV tanks so I'm assuming there must be
> some in service. Any comments pro or con? I already have the Stewart
> Warner float senders but am thinking about getting the capacitive probes
and
> putting them in before my wings are permanently mounted. They are more
> expensive at $95 each but if it saves me *ever* having to pull them out
for
> replacement it's probly worthwhile. I know it can be done but in my case
it
> will be worse on the left wing since I have my fuel pump and gascolator in
> the wing root area...
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > --Mark Navratil
> > Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> > RV-8A N2D fiberglass...
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 15
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 11:01:08 AM PST US
> From: JRWillJR@aol.com
> Subject: RV-List: Alternate Engines, suggestions, etc
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: JRWillJR@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 12/14/2002 11:37:39 AM Central Standard Time,
> ebowhay@jetstream.net writes:
>
>
> > The RV list gets carried away once and awhile and one is tempted to push
the
>
> > un-subscribe button but then pause for a moment and think about all the
> > good that comes out of it. We are fortunate to have such a list
especially
> > during the building process.
>
> Gosh, I thought we was just sitting around with some beers having a
> discussion.
> Perhaps the list could have moderators, long time members who would have
the
> power to "edit" offensive or inflammatory material. Sometimes people say
> things that are meant as harmless and it does not come across that way.
For a
> well run forum visit www.tractorbynet . It is the most civil, friendly
> place on the net. It has moderators but more than that the people are just
> good people and the forum is designed to allow a wide variety of topics.
> Visit www.usjabiru.com for a look at their 8 cylinder 180/200 horse
> engine under going development. It is priced around 15,000 I think, not
sure
> about that price exactly.
> I thought the only thread on this forum that had gotten nasty as of recent
> was the Insurance one, I apologize if I have caused anyone heartburn, I
was
> not in that one. I learned somethings from the engine thread and I figure
> there are folks shopping for engines so they may have been interested in a
> pro/con discussion.
> Y'all have a happy holiday, I got to go fire up the Kubota, I am building
a
> new shop and need to get the slab banked in. If you think airplane engines
> are expensive try looking at "real" tractors. Out of here for a while. Oh,
do
> not archive. JR
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 16
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 11:09:42 AM PST US
> From: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Protection diodes on starter solenoid
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry"
<elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
>
> Au contraire to you, GV (your posting is not identified by your name) The
> "current" flow that you state going from negative to positive, is
ELECTRON
> flow and the conventional way of stating current flow is from positive to
> negative! If you connect a diode anode to the positive terminal of a
battery
> and the cathode of it to the negative terminal, you will blow it.
(assuming
> the battery has sufficient capacity to do just that, which an aircraft
> battery sure has) That is why the schematic of a diode shows a triangle
> (anode) pointing to a straight line across the triangle point (the
cathode)
> and indicates the direction of current flow. (Anode to cathode, or + to -)
>
> That is why diodes connected across solenoid or relay coils have the
Anodes
> connected to ground and the Cathodes connected to the positive supply that
> energizes the coil. There will not be any current through the diode
normally
> when the coil is energized, BUT when the current is interrupted (switched
> off), the collapsing field in the coil will generate (induce) a reverse
> polarity voltage which will cause the diode to conduct and quench it. If
> there was no diode there to do this, the resulting negative spike
traveling
> to the switch contacts will cause arcing as the switch contacts open.
> Depending on the inductance of the coil, that spike could reach several
> hundred volts!
>
> Try this: If you have a starter or master solenoid sitting around not
> installed, connect the coil, without a diode, to a battery with clip leads
> and verify that it operates OK. Now disconnect one lead and observe the
> spark as the contact is broken. Repeat the exercise, but this time, hold a
> finger in contact with the cliplead and the battery terminal as you break
> the contact.- You will not like the jolt you feel!
> Cheers!!----------Henry Hore
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 17
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 11:28:11 AM PST US
> Subject: RV-List: Sport Aviation Mag and a Scanner (Not RV-Related)
> From: "Gannon, Terence" <Terence.Gannon@trican.ca>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Gannon, Terence"
<Terence.Gannon@trican.ca>
>
> Hello Folks - this is not directly RV-related so pardon the interruption.
Anybody
> out there have a copy of the JULY 1995 edition of Sport Aviation, and
wouldn't
> mind scanning and sending an article for me? If so, please contact me off
> list...thanx...
>
> Terry in Calgary
> RV-6 S/N 24414
> "Right Wing"
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 18
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 11:46:30 AM PST US
> From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: TBO
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: JRWillJR@aol.com
> >
> >Yeah, if anyone is really interested in this subject they would need to
get
> >the AC's on this subject, certification standards. There are beliefs and
> >there are facts and then there is the real world. The Lycomings are
certified
> >to TBO at full rated power. There is no take off power limit etc on our
> >little Lycs. It is 2700 RPM continuous sea level standard conditions for
full
> >TBO.
>
> If someone can actually find this AC and tells us which AC and which
> page talks about how TBO is defined I would love to have the info. I
> have looked at all the engine and maintenance related ACs I can find
> on the FAA web site, and I can't find any discussion of TBO and what
> it really means.
>
> I know that with the modern turbine engines the manufacturers get
> really touchy if an operator wants to operate at anything approaching
> max continuous power (or thrust for jet engines) continuously, as
> they know that they probably won't get the engine life "guaranteed"
> by the engine manufacturer. Depending on the aircraft's design
> mission, the aircraft manufacturer defines a typical mission profile,
> including climb and cruise power settings that are lower than max
> continuous power, and the engine manufacturer provides engine life
> guarantees based on this mission profile. If the aircraft
> manufacturer later wants to increase the climb or cruise thrust there
> is a lot of hard negotiation with the engine manufacturer about
> engine life guarantees, even if the increased power levels are well
> below maximum continuous power.
>
> So, I would be quite surprised if the Lycoming TBO actually assumes
> maximum continuous power for 2,000 hrs. Lots of folks claim to know
> that this is how the TBO is defined, but I would love to see some
> evidence.
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (baffles, induction air, oil cooler)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 19
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 12:04:13 PM PST US
> From: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Protection diodes on starter solenoid
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry"
<elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
>
> Au contraire to you, GV (your posting is not identified by your name) The
> "current" flow that you state going from negative to positive, is
ELECTRON
> flow and the conventional way of stating current flow is from positive to
> negative! If you connect a diode anode to the positive terminal of a
battery
> and the cathode of it to the negative terminal, you will blow it.
(assuming
> the battery has sufficient capacity to do just that, which an aircraft
> battery sure has) That is why the schematic of a diode shows a triangle
> (anode) pointing to a straight line across the triangle point (the
cathode)
> and indicates the direction of current flow. (Anode to cathode, or + to -)
>
> That is why diodes connected across solenoid or relay coils have the
Anodes
> connected to ground and the Cathodes connected to the positive supply that
> energizes the coil. There will not be any current through the diode
normally
> when the coil is energized, BUT when the current is interrupted (switched
> off), the collapsing field in the coil will generate (induce) a reverse
> polarity voltage which will cause the diode to conduct and quench it. If
> there was no diode there to do this, the resulting negative spike
traveling
> to the switch contacts will cause arcing as the switch contacts open.
> Depending on the inductance of the coil, that spike could reach several
> hundred volts!
>
> Try this: If you have a starter or master solenoid sitting around not
> installed, connect the coil, without a diode, to a battery with clip leads
> and verify that it operates OK. Now disconnect one lead and observe the
> spark as the contact is broken. Repeat the exercise, but this time, hold a
> finger in contact with the cliplead and the battery terminal as you break
> the contact.- You will not like the jolt you feel!
> Cheers!!----------Henry Hore
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 20
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 12:14:42 PM PST US
> From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Protection diodes on starter solenoid
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
>
> If I where to hold an imaginary diode in my thumb out closed fist with the
> arrow symbol pointing up in the direction my thumb would be pointing.
Which
> end would I attach to the positive pole on whatever devise or application
I
> wish to protect or control?
> Is this question too simplified, or am I not getting it at all?
>
> Jim in Kelowna
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Protection diodes on starter solenoid
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry"
> <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
> >
> > Au contraire to you, GV (your posting is not identified by your name)
The
> > "current" flow that you state going from negative to positive, is
> ELECTRON
> > flow and the conventional way of stating current flow is from positive
to
> > negative! If you connect a diode anode to the positive terminal of a
> battery
> > and the cathode of it to the negative terminal, you will blow it.
> (assuming
> > the battery has sufficient capacity to do just that, which an aircraft
> > battery sure has) That is why the schematic of a diode shows a triangle
> > (anode) pointing to a straight line across the triangle point (the
> cathode)
> > and indicates the direction of current flow. (Anode to cathode, or +
to -)
> >
> > That is why diodes connected across solenoid or relay coils have the
> Anodes
> > connected to ground and the Cathodes connected to the positive supply
that
> > energizes the coil. There will not be any current through the diode
> normally
> > when the coil is energized, BUT when the current is interrupted
(switched
> > off), the collapsing field in the coil will generate (induce) a reverse
> > polarity voltage which will cause the diode to conduct and quench it. If
> > there was no diode there to do this, the resulting negative spike
> traveling
> > to the switch contacts will cause arcing as the switch contacts open.
> > Depending on the inductance of the coil, that spike could reach several
> > hundred volts!
> >
> > Try this: If you have a starter or master solenoid sitting around not
> > installed, connect the coil, without a diode, to a battery with clip
leads
> > and verify that it operates OK. Now disconnect one lead and observe the
> > spark as the contact is broken. Repeat the exercise, but this time, hold
a
> > finger in contact with the cliplead and the battery terminal as you
break
> > the contact.- You will not like the jolt you feel!
> > Cheers!!----------Henry Hore
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 21
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 12:19:03 PM PST US
> From: Miller Robert <rmiller3@earthlink.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: How do you secure wiring harnesses in the aft
fuselage?
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Miller Robert <rmiller3@earthlink.net>
>
> I agree, absolutely.
> Circuit protection is most important.
> (Actually, second most important... right after designing the circuits
properly
> in the first place. That's why I too am a "Bob Nuckolls disciple".)
> Nevertheless, I would not then go on to wrap bundles of wires in "plastic
> wrap"... which was original point.
> Would rather see wire ties or electrical tape with acceptable flammability
> ratings for bundling wires, as needed.
> Robert
>
>
> Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
> >
> > I certainly find no fault with building high quality into our planes. If
> > you are concerned about flammability in wire bundles.......STOP.... and
> > reexamine your wiring architecture! The reason we install breakers
> > and/or fuses is to achieve a wiring architecture where there is no
> > possibility of wires getting hot enough to melt. There is no reason to
> > have ANY wires longer than a few inches that are not protected by either
> > a breaker, fuse, or fusible link. Wires that are bundled together in the
> > fuse or wing most definitely should be protected by devices that will
> > trip or blow in milliseconds after a short occurs, long before
> > flammability becomes an issue.
> >
> > Sam Buchanan (RV-6, Bob Nuckolls disciple)
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 22
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 12:32:45 PM PST US
> From: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternate Engines
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
>
> >
> > I have no problem with the development of automotive power and encourage
> those who are trying and would be more than willing to bolt one on the
front
> of my aircraft if it could meet my list of qualifications.
> >
> > The installed weight be no heavier than a Lycoming of comparable power.
> > Be able to fly in formation with another same model Lyco RV both using
the
> same manifold pressure.
> > Be able to run a Hartzell constant speed prop.
> > Fit into a cowling that would not take away from the good looks of an
RV.
>
> > Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
>
> I'm to the 'Three out of 4' point now. I thought I could see my way
clear
> to make my RD-1A/B reduction drive work with a Hartzell CS because it
would
> be relatively easy to add a port and get oil through the hollow prop
shaft.
> But I recently read that the oil pressure from governor is around 1200
psi.
>
> I'm not familiar with the plumbing of a Lyc. Can anyone briefly tell me
how
> the high pressure oil from the governor on the accessory case gets through
> the crank to the prop? I can't imagine the oil seals necessary to do
this.
>
> Tracy Crook
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 23
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 12:37:18 PM PST US
> From: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: sliders & tip-up
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
>
> > Does anyone sell a pre-made lid for these things?
>
> No, not yet.
>
> > Why are the ones in Van's kits so difficult to build?
>
> They're not. They do take a long time to do properly. In my case I found
the
> canopy a place where additional optional equipment and design changes
> tripled the labour required. I also am doing a completely finished
upolstery
> interior. Very time consuming to get the inside of the canopy frame.
>
> > Would a well made lid from one RV6 fit another RV6
>
> Not a chance. The sides of mine fit exactly because they were done on the
> plane.
>
> > or is there a high degree of variability from one plane to another?
>
> I think so but might not be completely qualified to answer this question
as
> I haven't been going around measuring every RV I see.
>
> > Finally, is one style (slider vs tip-up) safer than the other?
>
> Here's a question I haven't seen yet. I don't know. In either case I
believe
> a canopy break out tool is a required piece of safety equipment. Think how
> impossible it would be to open either style of canopy if the aircraft was
> upside down in a soft field. History has proven they like to flip over
when
> engine out landings are conducted in soft fields. There are various tools
> available from the auto supply houses. Many builders including myself
> recommend modifying the bottom of the removable passenger joystick into a
> nasty canopy smashing device. I'm doing both. One of the smarter ideas
I've
> picked up from this list.
>
> > Sorry if I'm asking stupid questions. I'm learning as quickly as I can!
> Thanks for your input.
>
> No such thing as a stupid question. If anyone on this list if concerned
> about looking dumb but has a question then I will volunteer my email
address
> nhunger@sprint.ca and go ahead and send it privately.
>
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
>
> >
> > Doc
> >
> > Do not archive
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 24
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 12:55:42 PM PST US
> From: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Airfoil Diagram & Van's Fuel Valve
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
>
> > Best advice for that fuel valve from Van's is to throw it directly into
> the
> > nearest trash can and buy something airworthy.
> >
> > Do not Archive
>
> Well that might be a little harsh. I bet it functions just fine but the
> thing is just crying out for a better looking handle. After seeing the
> Andair valve I just had to have one. Also bought their vastly superior
> gascolator.
>
> Any one in the Vancouver area who wants to save themselves $23 USD from
> their finishing kit is welcome to come over and have my origional never
used
> Vans fuel selector valve.
>
> For those that don't know, Van will reduce the price of any kit by
whichever
> part you tell him to remove at the time of placing the order. The most
> extreme example are the Harmon Rocket guys that order about half an RV4
kit
> and get the rest from John.
>
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 25
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 01:16:46 PM PST US
> From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: TBO
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>
> Kevin Horton wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
> >
> >>--> RV-List message posted by: JRWillJR@aol.com
> >>
> >>Yeah, if anyone is really interested in this subject they would need to
get
> >>the AC's on this subject, certification standards. There are beliefs and
> >>there are facts and then there is the real world. The Lycomings are
certified
> >>to TBO at full rated power. There is no take off power limit etc on our
> >>little Lycs. It is 2700 RPM continuous sea level standard conditions for
full
> >>TBO.
> >
> >
> > If someone can actually find this AC and tells us which AC and which
> > page talks about how TBO is defined I would love to have the info. I
> > have looked at all the engine and maintenance related ACs I can find
> > on the FAA web site, and I can't find any discussion of TBO and what
> > it really means.
> >
>
> I have a copy of all of of Lycomings key reprints which is a compliation
of key
>
> maintenance and performance articles taken from the Textron Lycoming
"Flyer" newsletter.
> Every article on service life says "For maximum sevice life, maintain the
following
>
> recommended limits for continuous cruise operation:
>
> (a) Engine power setting - 65% of rated or less"
> (b) Cylinder head temperatures - 400deg F or below.
> (c) Oil temperature - 165degF - 220deg F.
>
> Lycoming also feels it is manditory to overhaul at 2000 hours or 12 years
of service
> life. They also say that there is no hard fast rule for determining when
an engine
> should be overhauled. It all is determined on how the engine is used in
service.
> It appears that there is nothing written that say an engine well run for
2000 hours
> at full rated power setting of 100% based on the above saying maximum
service at
> 65%
> power.
>
> Jerry
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 26
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 01:23:00 PM PST US
> From: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> Subject: RV-List: Seat Belt Weights
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
>
> I would like to see postings with the weights of the various seat belt
manufactors
> posted on the RV List.
> Lets keep things apples to apples and list only single seat weights of 5
point
> systems not including the cable that Van supplies.
>
> Scrotch
>
> Simpson
>
> Hooker
>
> Any others?
> Please include web addresses, source of purchase, and prices. I'm sure
this compelation
> will be very valuble to many listers and the archives.
>
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
> Do not archive until supplying answers.
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 27
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 01:28:29 PM PST US
> From: Todd Houg <thoug@attglobal.net>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Protection diodes on starter solenoid
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Todd Houg <thoug@attglobal.net>
>
> Henry,
>
> What you state below is correct, but I think you mis-read Doug's original
description
> of his connections. Doug's post states the following:
> "I have the blue diode connected from the "S" terminal to ground with the
red
> band of the diode next to the "S" terminal."
> Since the banded end of a diode corresponds to the cathode, Doug has the
cathode
> connected to the positive supply and the anode connected to ground just as
you
> described. Thus the Diode is reverese biased and non conducting until the
coil
> circuit opens and the coil inductance attempts to pull the voltage below
ground
> at which point the diode becomes forward biased and "clamps" the spike.
>
> Todd Houg
> Just another Electrical Engineer . . .
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Elsa & Henry
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Protection diodes on starter solenoid
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry"
<elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
>
> Au contraire to you, GV (your posting is not identified by your name) The
> "current" flow that you state going from negative to positive, is
ELECTRON
> flow and the conventional way of stating current flow is from positive to
> negative! If you connect a diode anode to the positive terminal of a
battery
> and the cathode of it to the negative terminal, you will blow it.
(assuming
> the battery has sufficient capacity to do just that, which an aircraft
> battery sure has) That is why the schematic of a diode shows a triangle
> (anode) pointing to a straight line across the triangle point (the
cathode)
> and indicates the direction of current flow. (Anode to cathode, or + to -)
>
> That is why diodes connected across solenoid or relay coils have the
Anodes
> connected to ground and the Cathodes connected to the positive supply that
> energizes the coil. There will not be any current through the diode
normally
> when the coil is energized, BUT when the current is interrupted (switched
> off), the collapsing field in the coil will generate (induce) a reverse
> polarity voltage which will cause the diode to conduct and quench it. If
> there was no diode there to do this, the resulting negative spike
traveling
> to the switch contacts will cause arcing as the switch contacts open.
> Depending on the inductance of the coil, that spike could reach several
> hundred volts!
>
> Try this: If you have a starter or master solenoid sitting around not
> installed, connect the coil, without a diode, to a battery with clip leads
> and verify that it operates OK. Now disconnect one lead and observe the
> spark as the contact is broken. Repeat the exercise, but this time, hold a
> finger in contact with the cliplead and the battery terminal as you break
> the contact.- You will not like the jolt you feel!
> Cheers!!----------Henry Hore
>
>
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>
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>
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>
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>
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>
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>
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> AAA4hQAAAQAAAAEAAAAAAAAAHgA9AAEAAAAFAAAAUkU6IAAAAAADAA00/TcAAAmZ
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 28
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 01:28:32 PM PST US
> From: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Airfoil Diagram & Van's Fuel Valve
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> >
> > > Best advice for that fuel valve from Van's is to throw it directly
into
> > the
> > > nearest trash can and buy something airworthy.
> > >
> > > Do not Archive
>
> I cussed my Van's valve for awhile too. After taking it apart and
noticing
> the tapered cylinder shape I understood why it got sticky. From then on I
> would lift up slightly on the handle when I turned it and never had a
> problem again. I later eliminated all valves with my EFI fuel system.
>
> Do Not Archive
>
> Tracy Crook
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 29
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 01:36:16 PM PST US
> From: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Protection diodes on starter solenoid
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie and Tupper England
<cengland@netdoor.com>
>
> Jim Jewell wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
> >
> > If I where to hold an imaginary diode in my thumb out closed fist with
the
> > arrow symbol pointing up in the direction my thumb would be pointing.
Which
> > end would I attach to the positive pole on whatever devise or
application I
> > wish to protect or control?
> > Is this question too simplified, or am I not getting it at all?
> >
> > Jim in Kelowna
>
> OK Jim, here's the answer, but you are ruining all the fun & controversy.
>
> :-(
>
> Tie the banded end to the same terminal as the wire that comes from the
positive
>
> terminal on the battery.
>
> The unbanded end goes to terminal that gets tied to ground and/or the
negative
>
> terminal of the battery.
>
> Remember that we are talking about the terminals for the *coil*, not the
load
> carrying terminals of the solenoid, relay or contactor. 'Solenoid' is
included
>
> because most starter 'solenoid's actually function as a true solenoid when
they
>
> move the pinion gear into mesh with the ring gear, and also as a
'contactor' or
>
> 'relay' by completing the high-current switch function to run the starter
motor.
>
> Charlie
>
> now bored in Slobovia
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 30
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 01:37:59 PM PST US
> From: "Dave Stewart" <davestewart@globalserve.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Issue with upper baggage bulkhead
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Stewart"
<davestewart@globalserve.net>
>
> Dan........I questioned Vans about this a couple of months ago and Bruce
> confirmed that the small aft lip in the top bulkhead goes on TOP and gets
> partially cut away by radii. (The side view showing the top /bottom
overlap
> & harness wear block - and no "lip" in evidence - is correct). I did it
this
> way and it looks fine.
> Dave (90252)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Issue with upper baggage bulkhead
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> >
> > I'm about to trim the curved shape into the F-652 upper baggage bulkhead
> > (corrugated skin that attaches to F-706). I have an issue with the
stock
> > Van's sent me. There's a bent-back LIP at the very edge that is
baffling
> > me! Here are some photos:
> >
> > http://www.rvproject.com/f652_issue.html
> >
> > It would be no big freakin' deal if the stock was tall enough to just
cut
> > off the extra, but there is NO extra. The stock is exactly 34" wide and
> 10
> > 5/8" tall (if the bend were straightened), but the lip points AFT. It's
> not
> > even like it's bent in the same direction as the corrugation. Weird.
> >
> > Did anybody else have this issue with their F-652? I'm really
> > baffled...this is definitely not damage, but I don't see the purpose! I
> > assume Van's just shipped out a bogus skin to me, but it's after hours.
> I'm
> > not about to take my hand seamer to this to try to get it
straight...screw
> > that! I would love other builder's perspective on this issue...
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > )_( Dan
> > RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
> > http://www.rvproject.com
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 31
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 02:15:52 PM PST US
> From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Airfoil Diagram & Van's Fuel Valve
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
> >
> >Howdy 'list-
> >
> >Somebody's website has a color graphic of Van's standard airfoil showing
> >pressure gradients around it in flight- some kind of wind tunnel test
> >results, I believe. I know I had it but it's buried somewhere on my
> >well-organized hard drive. 8-( If someone could send me a link (or
> >the file) I would appreciate it!
> >
> >Also, how do ya get the &%@*! handle off of Vans standard fuel valve
> >without destroying it? -yes, I HAVE removed the screw! 8-)
> >
> >From The PossumWorks in TN
> >Mark - do not archive -
> >
>
> You might be thinking of Leo Benetti-Longhini's site. It has a link
> to a pressure distribution graphic.
>
> http://www.cafes.net/leo/RV-6.html
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (baffles, induction air, oil cooler)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 32
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 02:59:00 PM PST US
> From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Airfoil Diagram & Van's Fuel Valve
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
>
> > >Also, how do ya get the &%@*! handle off of Vans standard fuel valve
> > >without destroying it? -yes, I HAVE removed the screw! 8-)
>
>
> I suppose the best way to get the handle off would be to fly it without
> the screw, I'm sure the handle would fall right off when you run a tank
> dry :
> )
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 237 hours
> www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 33
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 03:36:39 PM PST US
> From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@mcleodusa.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Fuselage Jig
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
<sisson@mcleodusa.net>
>
> andrew.wereley@earthlink.net wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: <andrew.wereley@earthlink.net>
> >
> > Free to good home, one RV-8 fuselage jig. I have recently moved my
project
> > out of the jig and now I need to get the jig out of my garage. I'm
happy to
> > donate it to whomever is willing to haul it away. It's straight and I'm
> > pleased with the way my fuse is proceeding.
> >
> > I'm located in Vacaville, CA which is about 40 mi. northeast of San
Francisco.
> > If we cut the jig in half, it will fit in the bed of a pickup with the
gate
> > down and can be spliced back together later. Please reply off list to
> > awereley@hotmail.com.
> >
> > Andy Wereley
> >
>
> Andy, when I moved mine. I cut mine in two like you mentioned. It works
very good
> like that.
> I first cut the splice pieces to length (approxiamtely 30 inches) and
screwed them
> on using Deck Screws. I used a half dozen or more on each side of the
splice.
> Then I reached down with a "saws-all" and made the cut while it was
screwed
> together. it never moved a bit when the cut was made.
> It worked out real good.It is now on its third fuselage.
>
> In a 1970, 3/4 ton ford pick-up, I moved an entire rv6 project including
runout
> engine, steel two-wing jig and sawed in two fuselage jig. One wing was
clecoed
> and
> in the jig. Tail section was done, Fuselage in un opened box and no finish
kit....
>
> This move was from Seattle area to Central IL...I bought the used pick-up
out
> there and got all of my money back from a guy who was moving back out
there to
> live..
> Phil
>
> do not archive..
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 34
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 03:38:19 PM PST US
> From: Vanremog@aol.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Protection diodes on starter solenoid
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 12/14/2002 12:07:21 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com writes:
>
> > The
> > "current" flow that you state going from negative to positive, is
ELECTRON
> > flow and the conventional way of stating current flow is from positive
to
> > negative!
>
> A brilliant mind is a terrible thing to waste ;
> ). Fortunately for me we
> have schools that teach Electronics 101, so you may wish to go see:
>
> <A
HREF="http://www.electronicstheory.com/html/e101-6.htm">http://www.electroni
cstheory.com/html/e101-6.htm
>
> Keep in mind that it is still just theory and your particular religion my
> believe the opposite.
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV 575hrs)
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 35
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 05:07:26 PM PST US
> From: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Protection diodes on starter solenoid
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry"
<elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
>
> Todd: you are right! (Sorry, Doug ) I thought that the "S" terminal was
> grounded but apparently it is a positive supply from the starter
> push-button, in which case the diode with the banded side connected to
that
> terminal is correct. I am not familiar with the Sky Tech starter as I have
> the old Delco unit which requires the three terminal relay, two of which
are
> heavy duty that connect the battery direct to the starter. Now, the
question
> I have (to try to solve Doug's problem) is about the "I" terminal that
goes
> to the small terminal on the Sky Tech starter---It would seem to me that
> this supplies power to another solenoid inside the starter which makes the
> heavy current connection to the starter motor there---So, is there a
> suppression diode inside for THAT solenoid ?? If not that one could cause
a
> very heavy back-EMF spike that would play "Merry Hell" (as I stated in the
> first post on this subject).
>
> So it would appear that we have two solenoids in series, the first, the
> Van's unit which I agree the coil is correctly dioded, followed by Sky
Tech
> which may not be! Anybody know what's in there?
> If there is no diode then, another one needs to be connected from the
"small
> terminal" (cathode) to ground (Anode) preferably right at the terminal to
> suppress EMI (electro magnetic interference) that could occur if you put
it
> at the "I" terminal.
> Cheers!!-----------Henry (Pierre to GV?)
>
> PS See my letter to the Editor in the July 2002 issue pg 10 of
> Sport Aviation on the subject.
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 36
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 05:40:27 PM PST US
> From: "William Davis" <rvpilot@695online.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternate Engines
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "William Davis" <rvpilot@695online.com>
>
> Tracy,
>
> Oil is piped from the governor via an external line to a port at the front
> of the engine. This port is between the two halves of the front main
> bearing. This part of the bearing has a reduced diam. creating a small
> chamber there.Holes in the crank and bearing at this point conduct the oil
> into the hollow crank, then to the prop. There are 3 seals involved (1)
an
> O ring seal where the prop mates to the crankshaft flange, this one never
> gives any trouble unless damaged during installation. (2 & 3), the front
and
> rear halves of the front main bearing. Some leakage occurs there back into
> the case but the governor has enough capacity to overcome normal
clearances.
> If the clearances become too large,the prop will not function once the oil
> warms up.
>
> Bill
>
> Original Message -----
> From: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternate Engines
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
> >
> > >
> > > I have no problem with the development of automotive power and
encourage
> > those who are trying and would be more than willing to bolt one on the
> front
> > of my aircraft if it could meet my list of qualifications.
> > >
> > > The installed weight be no heavier than a Lycoming of comparable
power.
> > > Be able to fly in formation with another same model Lyco RV both using
> the
> > same manifold pressure.
> > > Be able to run a Hartzell constant speed prop.
> > > Fit into a cowling that would not take away from the good looks of an
> RV.
> >
> > > Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
> >
> > I'm to the 'Three out of 4' point now. I thought I could see my way
> clear
> > to make my RD-1A/B reduction drive work with a Hartzell CS because it
> would
> > be relatively easy to add a port and get oil through the hollow prop
> shaft.
> > But I recently read that the oil pressure from governor is around 1200
> psi.
> >
> > I'm not familiar with the plumbing of a Lyc. Can anyone briefly tell me
> how
> > the high pressure oil from the governor on the accessory case gets
through
> > the crank to the prop? I can't imagine the oil seals necessary to do
> this.
> >
> > Tracy Crook
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 37
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 06:17:43 PM PST US
> From: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternate Engines
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
> >
> --snip--
> > Be able to fly in formation with another same model Lyco RV both using
the same
> manifold pressure.
>
> Eustace:
>
> It's unlikely that any engine other than a Lycoming could satisfy this
> requirement, since the relationship between power and manifold pressure is
> unique to each engine design. I think the parameter you should use here
is
> brake mean effective pressure (BMEP), which is what manifold pressure is
giving
> you a rough indication of.
>
> Here's how some of the alternatives compare to Lycomings, based on numbers
> published by Lycoming, Belted Air Power, and Subaru. (You'll want to view
this
> table with a non-proportional font, such as Courier.)
>
> O-320 O-360 BAP1 BAP2 Egg1 Egg2
> ----- ----- ---- ---- ----
> displ. 320 360 262 262 150 150
> RPM 2400 2400 3111 3111 4978 4000
> HP 120 135 120 135 120 120
> BMEP 124 124 117 131 127 158
>
> For the Lycomings I've used standard cruise conditions ("24-squared").
>
> For the Belted Air Power engine, which is a 4.3-litre Chevy, I've used 8/9
of
> rated RPM, which is equivalent to 2400 RPM for a Lycoming. BAP1 is
putting out
> 120 HP to match the O-320, and BAP2 is putting out 135 HP to match the
O-360.
> The BAP engine "brackets" the Lycomings, in that it doesn't have to work
as
> hard as the O-320 to keep up with it, but has to work slightly harder than
the
> O-360 to keep up with it.
>
> For the Eggenfellner Subaru, I've used 8/9 of peak power RPM (4978) for
Egg1
> and Eggenfellner's recommended cruise RPM (4000) for Egg2. I think Jan
would
> agree that 4978 RPM is too high for cruise. However, at 4000 RPM the BMEP
is
> significantly higher than the others just to maintain 120 HP, and is in
fact
> probably higher than the engine can produce at full throttle and a few
thousand
> feet of altitude. This is why I say that the Eggenfellner engine is a
fine
> choice for an RV-9, but perhaps slightly lacking for RV-7s and RV-8s.
>
> Tedd McHenry
> Surrey, BC
> -6 wings
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 38
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 06:33:56 PM PST US
> From: Finn Lassen <finnlassen@netzero.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Airfoil Diagram & Van's Fuel Valve
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finnlassen@netzero.net>
>
> >
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
> >
> >
> >>--> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> >>
> >>
> >>>Best advice for that fuel valve from Van's is to throw it directly into
> >>>
> >>>
> >>the nearest trash can and buy something airworthy.
> >>
> >>
> >I cussed my Van's valve for awhile too. After taking it apart and
noticing
> >the tapered cylinder shape I understood why it got sticky. From then on
I
> >would lift up slightly on the handle when I turned it and never had a
> >problem again. I later eliminated all valves with my EFI fuel system.
> >
> >Tracy Crook
> >
> >
> No, this should be archived: How to make Van's fuel valve work: pull and
> turn.
>
> Finn
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 39
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 06:43:35 PM PST US
> From: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Lightspeed hall effect module failure
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
>
> My questions are, why would you report this kind of incident and why would
the
> safety board investigate an experiemental ignition system?
>
> Dave
> do not archive
>
> czechsix@juno.com wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
> >
> > Anyone else had, or heard of, a failure like this? I have dual
crank-triggered
> Lightspeeds so this failure mode won't affect me, but I thought I'd pass
along
> the info FYI...
> >
> > -
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 40
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 06:45:33 PM PST US
> From: bruno <rv4@videotron.ca>
> Subject: RV-List: Instrument lightning systems
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: bruno <rv4@videotron.ca>
>
> Hello listers
> I've been thinking about installing instruments lights in my
> RV-4 for a while now and tonight while looking thru the Spruce & Specialty
> catalogue(2001 page 385) I came across a few systems.
> So my questions are#
>
> 1.-Is there anyone on the list who has installed the fiberlite
> package and if so does it come complete with enough bezels to light up a
> standard instrument panel?
>
> 2.-How hard was it to installed?
>
> I also looked at Paul Besing web site and I really liked the UMA bezel
> lights but it might become fairly expensive to do a complete instrument
> panel,specially for us Canadians with the outrageous exchange rate and
> taxes.
>
> Looking forward to yours imputs
>
> Cheers
>
> Bruno Dionne
> C-GDBH RV-4
> rv4@videotron.ca
> Do not archive
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 41
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 06:48:45 PM PST US
> From: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: TBO
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
>
> Boy, now I feel better about auto engines!
>
> > ... an auto engine can last many hundreds of
> > hours in aircraft use...
>
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 42
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 08:12:29 PM PST US
> From: "Meketa" <acgm@gvtc.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: How do you secure wiring harnesses in the aft
fuselage?
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Meketa" <acgm@gvtc.com>
>
> Hello Yall
>
> The term Mil-Spec itself has nothing do with the flammability or quality
> of a particular item, just that it meets a certain specification. If my
wire
> ties are giving off enough fumes to cause a problem I will likely wish
> I had a parachute.
>
> George Meketa
> RV-8, N444TX, 219.1 hours
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: How do you secure wiring harnesses in the aft
> fuselage?
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> >
> > > The plastic wrap makes me a little nervous because of flammability,
and
> > toxic
> > > vapors that could result from a short situation, etc.
> > > Electrical tape placed strategically with good flammability ratings
> > instead?
> > > Robert
> >
> > I must agree. That is why my plastic cable ties are all Mil Spec.
> > I got them at Terminal Town
> > http://www.terminaltown.com/index.htm
> > The page with the ties is
> > http://www.terminaltown.com/Pages/Page8.html
> >
> > They are made by Thomas&Bates
> > The trademark is CATAMOUNT
> > I have two sizes. The small are working for almost everything.
> > Part # L-5-30-9-C Intermediate Cable Tie
> > Length 5.6"
> > Width 0.130"
> > Tensile Strength 30 lbs / 134N
> > Temp Rating 185F / 85C
> > Max Wire Bundle 1.25"
> > Tool / Setting L-200 / 3-5
> > Material Nylon Natural
> > Military Standard MS-3367-5-9
> >
> > Also available are various wire bundling products for high temperature
> > areas. Check out this page:
> > http://www.terminaltown.com/Pages/Page206.html
> >
> > I am striving to have every component of my aircraft the best possible.
> > Might be one of the reasons that I have been building for 7 years. One
of
> > the others reasons would be that I have to work over 80 hours a week to
> pay
> > for it all.
> >
> >
> > Norman Hunger
> > RV6A Delta BC
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Norman wrote:
> > >
> > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> > > >
> > > > > I'm building and RV-9A and am wondering how you
> > > > > are securing the aft fuselage wiring. The wire goes
> > > > > through snap bushings on the bulkheads, but how do
> > > > > you secure it between the bulkheads? Do you just
> > > > > lace it together and let it dangle?
> > > >
> > > > Does the RV9 use J-stringers to stiffen the fuselage side skins like
> my
> > > > RV6A?
> > > > I bundled my wires in plastic wrap then laid them in the
J-stringers.
> A
> > few
> > > > holes and some mil spec plastic tie wraps and they are very secure.
I
> > used
> > > > Van's snap bushings at the bulkheads.
> > > >
> > > > Norman Hunger
> > > > RV6A Delta BC
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 43
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 08:18:02 PM PST US
> From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@mcleodusa.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: References please -- WAS:Alternative Engine
Questions
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
<sisson@mcleodusa.net>
>
> Jim Jewell wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
> >
> > That "equally ancient V/6" that you refer to has an old Grandfather;
The
> > General Motors (Possibly Chevrolet back then) V/8 design, Is in some
> > respects quite a lot older than many would believe. The first GM push
rod
> > overhead valve V/8 was a running prototype in 1917. The pushrod rockers
> > required frequent manual oiling as they where external to the crankcase
and
> > oiling system.
> > The first GM production V/8 I think was offered publicly in 1955. This
was
> > the fore runner of most all GM engines produced since then. The 283,
327,
> > 305, 350, 400 CID. and others worked hard and have lived long and varied
> > lives around the world.
> >
> > However the term "equally ancient" is at the very least stretching your
> > point. The 4.3 Vortec V/6 that much of this alternative engine
discussion
> > seems to have centered on certainly has an old historic lineage. The
Design
> > changes that have transpired down through the years have breathed
exiting
> > new life into that old iron horse.
> > A trip to a library or a web search will provide the seeker with a very
long
> > list of design changes. From the first offering of the V/6 (I'm
uncertain as
> > to the precise year) in the seventies or eighties to the present. The
list
> > is long. Many of the changes driven by anti pollution laws, some arising
> > from the auto racing industry, a good many due to warranty issues.
> >
> > Some if not most where subtle changes. Others such as intake manifold
runner
> > design, exhaust system, combustion chamber modifications, hall effect
> > ignition and individual port fuel injection have produced a powerful
engine
> > with a good record of reliability and endurance. The marine version
seems to
> > be a popular hard worker that stands up well to conditions simular to
those
> > in aircraft.
> >
> > Due to the Aircraft industry certification process the Lycoming design
> > started out of the gate much more developed than it's automotive
> > counterparts of that era (mid thirties). As the years have passed it to
has
> > gone through changes. The changes have in the main been borne out of
better
> > materials, machining and casting proceedures, and refinments driven by
in
> > the field failure mode discoverys, the dreaded ADs {|:-(!
> >
> > The fact that the thirties technology stood the test of time so well
makes
> > this topic very interesting.
> > The fact that the automotive technology has come as far as it has is
also
> > good interesting topic material.
> > The arguable parallels of the two that this disscusion has touched on
are
> > interesting, They come at the time when gasoline and diesel burning
internal
> > combustion piston engines might be seeing the end of their development
> > stage. Some say this technology is nearing the end of its dominance as
the
> > chosen source of power what we refer to as the modern civilised world.
> >
> > Yes we are having a discussion here, All in All this discussion has been
> > edifying, sometimes humorous, wide ranging and long, This after all is
what
> > the list is about.
> >
> > This thread will run it's course and come up again. In the meantime some
> > more Experimental builders will create and put hours on their
alternatives
> > whatever they might choose. This will again result in more information
to
> > support yet another go around with this worthwhile thread.
> >
> > Please feel free to correct and or update this email as needed
> > I need to learn.
> >
> > Jim In Kelowna .
> >
>
> What web-site do you find all this history?
> I am one lycoming driver that is finding this thread very interesting and
I hope
> it never really "ends".
> Phil
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 44
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 09:18:27 PM PST US
> From: "mark phillips" <mphill@gcctv.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Fuselage Jig
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "mark phillips" <mphill@gcctv.com>
>
> Cheez Phil, is that jig from Seattle, Washington
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@mcleodusa.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Fuselage Jig
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
> <sisson@mcleodusa.net>
> >
> > andrew.wereley@earthlink.net wrote:
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: <andrew.wereley@earthlink.net>
> > >
> > > Free to good home, one RV-8 fuselage jig. I have recently moved my
> project
> > > out of the jig and now I need to get the jig out of my garage. I'm
> happy to
> > > donate it to whomever is willing to haul it away. It's straight and
I'm
> > > pleased with the way my fuse is proceeding.
> > >
> > > I'm located in Vacaville, CA which is about 40 mi. northeast of San
> Francisco.
> > > If we cut the jig in half, it will fit in the bed of a pickup with
the
> gate
> > > down and can be spliced back together later. Please reply off list to
> > > awereley@hotmail.com.
> > >
> > > Andy Wereley
> > >
> >
> > Andy, when I moved mine. I cut mine in two like you mentioned. It works
> very good
> > like that.
> > I first cut the splice pieces to length (approxiamtely 30 inches) and
> screwed them
> > on using Deck Screws. I used a half dozen or more on each side of the
> splice.
> > Then I reached down with a "saws-all" and made the cut while it was
> screwed
> > together. it never moved a bit when the cut was made.
> > It worked out real good.It is now on its third fuselage.
> >
> > In a 1970, 3/4 ton ford pick-up, I moved an entire rv6 project including
> runout
> > engine, steel two-wing jig and sawed in two fuselage jig. One wing was
> clecoed and
> > in the jig. Tail section was done, Fuselage in un opened box and no
finish
> kit....
> >
> > This move was from Seattle area to Central IL...I bought the used
pick-up
> out
> > there and got all of my money back from a guy who was moving back out
> there to
> > live..
> > Phil
> >
> > do not archive..
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 45
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 10:05:38 PM PST US
> From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@mcleodusa.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Fuselage Jig
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
<sisson@mcleodusa.net>
>
> mark phillips wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "mark phillips" <mphill@gcctv.com>
> >
> > Cheez Phil, is that jig from Seattle, Washington
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@mcleodusa.net>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Fuselage Jig
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic
Club"
> > <sisson@mcleodusa.net>
> > >
> > > andrew.wereley@earthlink.net wrote:
> > >
> > > > --> RV-List message posted by: <andrew.wereley@earthlink.net>
> > > >
> > > > Free to good home, one RV-8 fuselage jig. I have recently moved my
> > project
> > > > out of the jig and now I need to get the jig out of my garage. I'm
> > happy to
> > > > donate it to whomever is willing to haul it away. It's straight and
I'm
> > > > pleased with the way my fuse is proceeding.
> > > >
> > > > I'm located in Vacaville, CA which is about 40 mi. northeast of San
> > Francisco.
> > > > If we cut the jig in half, it will fit in the bed of a pickup with
the
> > gate
> > > > down and can be spliced back together later. Please reply off list
to
> > > > awereley@hotmail.com.
> > > >
> > > > Andy Wereley
> > > >
> > >
> > > Andy, when I moved mine. I cut mine in two like you mentioned. It
works
> > very good
> > > like that.
> > > I first cut the splice pieces to length (approxiamtely 30 inches) and
> > screwed them
> > > on using Deck Screws. I used a half dozen or more on each side of the
> > splice.
> > > Then I reached down with a "saws-all" and made the cut while it was
> > screwed
> > > together. it never moved a bit when the cut was made.
> > > It worked out real good.It is now on its third fuselage.
> > >
> > > In a 1970, 3/4 ton ford pick-up, I moved an entire rv6 project
including
> > runout
> > > engine, steel two-wing jig and sawed in two fuselage jig. One wing was
> > clecoed and
> > > in the jig. Tail section was done, Fuselage in un opened box and no
finish
> > kit....
> > >
> > > This move was from Seattle area to Central IL...I bought the used
pick-up
> > out
> > > there and got all of my money back from a guy who was moving back out
> > there to
> > > live..
> > > Phil
> > >
> > > do not archive..
> > >
> > >
> >
>
> yes all the way, one plane is already flying, then mine, then yours...
>
>
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Re: Aileron spades |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Larry Pardue wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Chris <chrisw3@cox.net>
>>
>>What are Aileron spades?
>>
>
>
> A kludge attempt to get RV aileron forces on airplanes of inferior control
> harmony.
>
> They are paddles attached to and parallel to the ailerons that project
> across the airflow when the ailerons are deflected, thereby reducing stick
> force.
>
> Do not archive
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP Flying
> http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>
I believe that spades were put on a RV-4 that Ralph Ridell used for competition
aerobatics.
There is an article in the March 1991 RVator about this RV-4.
I gleaned this information from Randall Hendersons index of articles.
<Mar 91, 5, The RV-4 in Competitive Aerobatics>
I would not call it a kludge attempt as many competitive aircraft used them.
Jerry
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Re: Protection diodes on starter solenoid |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
Humbug !!
lm4@juno.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: lm4@juno.com
>
> Well, That does it. I've gotta throw in my 2 cents worth.
> Convention of VOLTAGE flow:--Positive to negative
> Convention of CURRENT flow:--negative to positive
Voltage does not flow
convention says Current flows from positive to negative
electrons move from negative to positive
positive charged atoms, but mostly positively charged molecules,
sometimes move from positive to negative BUT only in certain materials
under certain circumstances, atoms are generally locked in a structure.
> A. Voltage flowes the electrons down the wire to the appliance.
Voltage does not flow, compare voltage to water pressure, it is there
even with the tap off and no water running through the tap
> B. Earth or ground allows neutrons to flow up the line to the appliance.
I am flying and not connected to earth, were are these neutrons coming
from ?? neutrons are called neutrons because they are NEUTRAL not
negative AND not positive.
> 1. Voltage is represented by black holes with plus signs in them
> flowing to the right.
voltage does not flow, it is a driving force to push electrons around
> 2. Neutrons are represented by white holes with minus signs in them
> flowing to the left.
Neutrons are NEUTRAL, atoms which have lost electrons some times are
referred to as positive charges or positive holes.
> All of this aside. Can anyone come up with an axiom that will remind me
> which terminal to put the blocking band onto? I keep forgetting.
Strip means No or STOP, you connect to the terminal you want the current
to flow through. i.e. both coil and diode are parallel, you want the
flow to go through the coil and not the diode so you connect the stripe
to the side which comes from the positive terminal of the battery.
time to go work on that engine again.............
> Larry Mac Donald
> Rochester N.Y.
> do not archive
>
> On Sat, 14 Dec 2002 18:35:19 EST Vanremog@aol.com writes:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
>>
>>In a message dated 12/14/2002 12:07:21 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>>elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com writes:
>>
>>
>>>The
>>>"current" flow that you state going from negative to positive, is
>>>
>>ELECTRON
>>
>>>flow and the conventional way of stating current flow is from
>>>
>>positive to
>>
>>>negative!
>>>
>>A brilliant mind is a terrible thing to waste ;
>>). Fortunately for me we
>>have schools that teach Electronics 101, so you may wish to go see:
>>
>><A
>>
>>
> HREF="http://www.electronicstheory.com/html/e101-6.htm">http://www.electr
> onicstheory.com/html/e101-6.htm
>
>>Keep in mind that it is still just theory and your particular
>>religion my
>>believe the opposite.
>>
>>-GV (RV-6A N1GV 575hrs)
>>
>>
>>
>>_->
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | Re: Aileron spades |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Chris,
They are added flat and as often as not triangles or shovel shapes of stiff
material that are attached to the ailerons with an arm that sets the spades
out into the airstream away from the pivot point about 6 or more inches
depending on the size of the aircraft and the effect required.
Find the aerobatic sites on the web, look at the pictures there. I think
they are fairly common on professional aerobatic designs.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris" <chrisw3@cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aileron spades
> --> RV-List message posted by: Chris <chrisw3@cox.net>
>
> What are Aileron spades?
>
> --
> Chris Woodhouse
> 3147 SW 127th St.
> Oklahoma City, OK 73170
> 405-691-5206 (home)
> chrisw@programmer.net
> N35 20.492'
> W97 34.342'
>
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Re: Protection diodes on starter solenoid |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 12/15/2002 11:07:56 AM Pacific Standard Time,
alexpeterson@usjet.net writes:
> OK, here is the way to tell how to install the diode: put two diodes on
> the solenoid in parallel, one of them one way and the other the other
> way. Connect to battery, energize solenoid and look for the one that
> smokes. The other one is installed the correct way. Next thing we
> know, someone will talk about priming the diodes.
Of course you need to prime them. You mean give them a shot of fuel before
startup, right? Whoops! Wrong sense of the word. My god man, don't you
know corroding diodes could kill us all. But make sure it's an epoxy type or
you will have to top coat it within 24hrs. (Place your favorite obligatory
smiley here).
However, sticking a needle in a less humorous vein, diodes are just check
valves for electrons. You always want your catch diodes placed across any DC
relay primary (some are actually install internally in certain relays) in a
"reverse biased" fashion. If you think about it, if you installed it
"forward biased" with +V on the anode (+) and Ground on the cathode (-)
(banded side), it would just burn up quickly as many electrons flow from
negative to positive thru a low internal resistance (producing lots of watts
of heat).
Since all of our aircraft (maybe not the Brits') are negative Ground
(Earth?), determine which terminal of the relay/contactor/solenoid will be at
Ground potential (when +V is attached to the opposite terminal) and attach
the cathode (banded side) this more negative terminal.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 575hrs)
Message 40
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
On a lighter note I thought some of you would get a kick out of this if you haven't
already seen it. It's the right time of the year
Santa's Check Ride
It is a little known fact that Santa has to keep his pilot's license current in
order to make his deliveries every year, and so the old man wasn't too surprised
when he got a letter from the FAA informing him that a examiner would be
appearing shortly to run him through the usual recertification drill.
A detail of elves was sent out to wash and polish the sleigh, another group was
assigned to inspect, service, and repair all the tack,and a third squad started
curry-combing the reindeer. Santa himself got out his logbook and the rest
of the paperwork and made sure it was all in order.
On the appointed day the examiner arrived, and after the ritual cup o coffee, he
went over Santa's log and paperwork, then followed Santa outside. After a meticulous
review of Santa's weight and balance calculations, the examiner watched
Santa do the preflight, then followed behind him, looking closely at everything
from bells on the back of the sleigh to Rudolph's nose. When he finished,
he turned to Santa and said: "It looks pretty good so far. Let me get one thing
out of my bags and then we'll take her up."
When the examiner got back, Santa was in the sleigh and ready to taxi. As the examiner
climbed into the sleigh, Santa noticed that he was carrying a shotgun.
"What's THAT for ?" Santa asked. The examiner looked at him, then winked: "I
really shouldn't tell you this, but you're going to lose an engine on takeoff.
Eustace
A friend sent it to me, to all on the list "Have a merry Christmas".
Do not Archive
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: wiring harnesses in the aft fuselage? now Mil-Spec? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Meketa" <acgm@gvtc.com>
Robert
> It appears that some confusion exists in some of these notes as to the
> expressed point.
> So here it is:
> Plastic ties are fine.
> Plastic wrap is not fine.
>
> Robert "gift for the obvious" Miller
My reply was to the response, to your post, concerning the flammability
of Mil-Spec items. Again Mil-Spec DOES NOT neccessarily mean it
is better for a certain application than a non Mil-Spec item. I am sure
that
the nylon "Mil-Spec" ties from terminal town will put out plenty of fumes
when, not if, they burn.
> > > > The plastic wrap makes me a little nervous because of flammability,
and
> > > toxic
> > > I must agree. That is why my plastic cable ties are all Mil Spec.
> > > I got them at Terminal Town
> > > Material Nylon Natural
> > > Military Standard MS-3367-5-9
Now some of the tefzel ties may be heat resistant, but are not burn proof
and will likely give off fumes. I had a bag of the small tefzel ties
(expensive)
and they would burn and melt with a flame. Yes, I tested them. I did not
compare actual melting points etc., but felt the extra expense was not worth
the percieved, to me, gain in safety/quality.
In the rear of the fuselage use nylon tubing, spiral wrap, or nylon ties if
you want. Just be sure to propely secure, size, and protect circuits like
others have posted. Do not use electrical tape.(unless you really want to)
It can unravel, leaves sticky residue and looks unprofessional. (in my
opinion)
Again, if my wires ties or plastic wrap (which I do not have) in the rear
fuselage are hot enough to put out serious fumes I will wish I had a chute,
just in case.
> > If my wire ties are giving off enough fumes to cause a problem
> > I will likely wish I had a parachute.
Sorry, no confusion on this end.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
George Meketa
RV8, N444TX, 221.2 hours
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: Wheel Pant Openings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dick DeCramer" <diesel@rconnect.com>
I have NOT fitted my wheel pants yet but I have fitted another set of wheel fairings
to a 600-6 low end tire. I later purchased "Michelin Air" 600-6 tires and
not only would they not fit the the opening but the entire fairing was too
narrow to enclose this beefier tire. My finish kit contained "Aero Trainer" tires,
the same brand which I once equipped my plane (Cessna 170) with while my
wife was learning to fly and could not get them to last until she soloed!! Beware,
tires are not equal just because they have the same size/ply rating.
Dick DeCramer
RV6 N500DD
0-320..baffle kit
Northfield, MN
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron spades |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randall Henderson" <randallh@attbi.com>
> If you're looking for additional drag, just put all of the antenna's on
the
> outside of the aircraft. (The most I've seen on a RV (so far) is nine (9)
> external antenna's.)
>
> :-)
>
> Jim Ayers
> Less Drag Products, Inc.
But who's counting, eh Jim?
;-)
Randall Henderson
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