Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:26 AM - Re: wiring harnesses in the aft fuselage? now Mil-Spec? (Miller Robert)
2. 06:20 AM - Re: Protection diodes on starter solenoid (Elsa & Henry)
3. 07:29 AM - B25 (Larry Bowen)
4. 07:41 AM - Re: Aileron spades (mstewart@qa.butler.com)
5. 08:07 AM - Re: B25 (Paul Besing)
6. 08:13 AM - Re: Experience with Van's Gascolator (RGray67968@aol.com)
7. 09:27 AM - gascolator mounting. (Moore, Warren)
8. 09:28 AM - Primer and paint question (Chris)
9. 09:30 AM - Aircraft for Sale web sites? (Laird Owens)
10. 09:34 AM - Re: Alternate Engines (Tracy Crook)
11. 09:47 AM - Off Topic - Electric Motor (Bill VonDane)
12. 09:56 AM - greasy electrons (Wheeler North)
13. 10:04 AM - Re: Re: 360 makes 180 hp (glenn williams)
14. 10:15 AM - Colorado Builders (Gannon, Terence)
15. 10:21 AM - Re: Airfoil Diagram & Van's Fuel Valve (Norman)
16. 10:37 AM - Re: Off Topic - Electric Motor (Mark Phillips)
17. 10:37 AM - Re: Aileron spades (panamared2@brier.net)
18. 10:44 AM - Re: Airfoil Diagram & Van's Fuel Valve (Tracy Crook)
19. 10:48 AM - Re: Re: Aileron spades (Stein Bruch)
20. 10:51 AM - Re: Chris Primers & topcoats (Dick DeCramer)
21. 11:28 AM - Re: Primer and paint question (Jim Jewell)
22. 11:32 AM - Fw: Aileron spades (C. Rabaut)
23. 11:53 AM - Throttle Quadrants (Phil Jones)
24. 12:00 PM - Re: Re: 360 makes 180 hp (kempthornes)
25. 12:11 PM - Re: gascolator mounting. (Van Artsdalen, Scott)
26. 12:35 PM - Re: Throttle Quadrants (Joshua Siler)
27. 12:37 PM - Re: Throttle Quadrants (lucky macy)
28. 12:59 PM - Aircraft for Sale Web Site (Laird Owens)
29. 12:59 PM - paint (Glenn P. Wilkinson)
30. 01:22 PM - Re: Throttle Quadrants (Rob Prior)
31. 01:37 PM - Re: Andair products fuel line fitting size? (HCRV6@aol.com)
32. 02:09 PM - (Jim Piavis)
33. 02:17 PM - C-Frame for Rivet Squeezer (Jim Piavis)
34. 02:40 PM - Re: C-Frame for Rivet Squeezer (Ed_Cole@maximhq.com)
35. 03:55 PM - Re: Aileron spades (Randy Compton)
36. 03:55 PM - Re: Aileron spades (Randy Compton)
37. 03:55 PM - Re: Aileron spades (Randy Compton)
38. 03:55 PM - Re: Aileron spades (Randy Compton)
39. 03:55 PM - Re: Aileron spades (Randy Compton)
40. 04:46 PM - Re: Seat Belt Weights (Norman)
41. 04:50 PM - Re: Throttle Quadrants (Kyle Boatright)
42. 04:58 PM - Canards (Rick Galati)
43. 04:58 PM - Re: gascolator mounting. (Sam Buchanan)
44. 04:58 PM - Re: Aileron spades (Tedd McHenry)
45. 04:58 PM - Best $300 I ever spent / garage heater (Ross Schlotthauer)
46. 05:25 PM - Re: Aileron spades (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
47. 05:43 PM - Re: gascolator mounting. (Van Artsdalen, Scott)
48. 05:48 PM - Re: Aileron spades (Van Artsdalen, Scott)
49. 06:01 PM - Re: Canards (Tedd McHenry)
50. 06:14 PM - CFI required for RV6 or RV4 training (Stuart Driver)
51. 06:36 PM - RV Weight Reduction Perspective (Vince Himsl)
52. 06:38 PM - Re: Aileron spades (Doug Rozendaal)
53. 07:09 PM - Wheel pant access holes for air (czechsix@juno.com)
54. 07:14 PM - Re: Seat Belt Weights (N67BT@aol.com)
55. 07:32 PM - Re: Wheel pant access holes for air (Brian Denk)
56. 07:36 PM - Re:Aileron Spades (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
57. 07:42 PM - Re: Protection diodes on starter solenoid (Doug Weiler)
58. 08:05 PM - Instrument Lightniing (bruno)
59. 08:06 PM - Voltage regulator for sale (Don Mack)
60. 08:45 PM - Re: Wheel pant access holes for air (Randy Lervold)
61. 08:46 PM - Re: Throttle Quadrants (Karie Daniel)
62. 09:05 PM - fittings for fuel or whatever. (Chris)
63. 09:05 PM - Re: Wheel pant access holes for air (RGray67968@aol.com)
64. 09:08 PM - Happy RV Holidays! (Sam Buchanan)
65. 09:09 PM - Re: Re: A moderated RV-List (Eric Borduas)
66. 09:29 PM - Alternate engines (Bill Irvine)
67. 09:48 PM - F 16 ride (Rob W M Shipley)
68. 10:41 PM - Re: gascolator mounting. (Vanremog@aol.com)
69. 10:48 PM - Re: Protection diodes on starter solenoid (Jim Jewell)
70. 11:00 PM - Re: Alternate engines (Jim Jewell)
71. 11:22 PM - Re: Alternate engines (Tedd McHenry)
72. 11:31 PM - A mind blower (Jim Jewell)
73. 11:38 PM - Re: Alternate engines (Jim Jewell)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: wiring harnesses in the aft fuselage? now Mil-Spec? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Miller Robert <rmiller3@earthlink.net>
> Sorry, no confusion on this end.
>
Ah, the joys of the internet. Fun as all this is, I'm afraid the confusion
continues.
My only post was to suggest that plastic wrap was not so great an idea because
of toxic fumes that can be given by common plastic wrap should the wire bundle
get a bit hot.
So I would not wrap a bundle of wires in plastic wrap.
The Mil-Spec business was added by someone else. And others have made other
comments. Then it all gets stirred together into a big soup, and the gist of
any particular post takes on a new life in the mixture. And, as in this case,
maybe only one name remains at the top of a paragraph quoted over and over.
My wife calls all this email stuff a "modern inconvenience". Good line. :)
As for me, I don't even know what qualities any material must have in order to
earn the title, "Mil-Spec". And, of course, I didn't post anything about
Mil-Spec anything.
Now, if you want to talk soups, my wife makes these great........ Aw, forget
it.
Robert Miller
DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
Meketa wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Meketa" <acgm@gvtc.com>
>
> Robert
>
> > It appears that some confusion exists in some of these notes as to the
> > expressed point.
> > So here it is:
> > Plastic ties are fine.
> > Plastic wrap is not fine.
> >
> > Robert "gift for the obvious" Miller
>
> My reply was to the response, to your post, concerning the flammability
> of Mil-Spec items. Again Mil-Spec DOES NOT neccessarily mean it
> is better for a certain application than a non Mil-Spec item. I am sure
> that
> the nylon "Mil-Spec" ties from terminal town will put out plenty of fumes
> when, not if, they burn.
>
> > > > > The plastic wrap makes me a little nervous because of flammability,
> and
> > > > toxic
> > > > I must agree. That is why my plastic cable ties are all Mil Spec.
> > > > I got them at Terminal Town
> > > > Material Nylon Natural
> > > > Military Standard MS-3367-5-9
>
> Now some of the tefzel ties may be heat resistant, but are not burn proof
> and will likely give off fumes. I had a bag of the small tefzel ties
> (expensive)
> and they would burn and melt with a flame. Yes, I tested them. I did not
> compare actual melting points etc., but felt the extra expense was not worth
> the percieved, to me, gain in safety/quality.
>
> In the rear of the fuselage use nylon tubing, spiral wrap, or nylon ties if
> you want. Just be sure to propely secure, size, and protect circuits like
> others have posted. Do not use electrical tape.(unless you really want to)
> It can unravel, leaves sticky residue and looks unprofessional. (in my
> opinion)
>
> Again, if my wires ties or plastic wrap (which I do not have) in the rear
> fuselage are hot enough to put out serious fumes I will wish I had a chute,
> just in case.
>
> > > If my wire ties are giving off enough fumes to cause a problem
> > > I will likely wish I had a parachute.
>
> Sorry, no confusion on this end.
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
> George Meketa
> RV8, N444TX, 221.2 hours
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Protection diodes on starter solenoid |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
You blew it in the last paragraph of your posting, GV.
H.H.
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Something to fly while you build your RV:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1874584378
&category=26428
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Do not archve
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron spades |
--> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
Yeah who was that guy with 9 antennaes?
Ahh, yeah that WAS me, I now have 4 dragging.
And on topic, I have too been curious about the use of spades. On my 6A, I
would say they feel balanced below 170mph. Anything higher and the force can
get heavy. Course this force is the plane talking to you, which I agree
with. But having spent quite a bit of time in an Extra 300 with spades, they
sure do make acro easier on your body.
I would not put spades on my 6A, but it has crossed my mind in those 180mph
rolls. And I do think some of the posts were a bit hard on the guy asking.
Mike Stewart
Flying more than I can afford to.
Do not archive
> If you're looking for additional drag, just put all of the antenna's on
the
> outside of the aircraft. (The most I've seen on a RV (so far) is nine (9)
> external antenna's.)
>
> :-)
>
> Jim Ayers
> Less Drag Products, Inc.
But who's counting, eh Jim?
;-)
Randall Henderson
Mike Stewart
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<span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Courier New";color:black;font-weight:bold'>Yeah
who was that guy with 9 antennaes?
<span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Courier New";color:black;font-weight:bold'>Ahh,
yeah that WAS me, I now have 4 dragging.
<span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Courier New";color:black;font-weight:bold'>
<span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Courier New";color:black;font-weight:bold'>And
on topic, I have too been curious about the use of spades. On my 6A, I would say
they feel balanced below 170mph. Anything higher and the force can get heavy. Course
this force is the plane talking to you, which I agree with. But having spent quite
a bit of time in an Extra 300 with spades, they sure do make acro easier on your
body.
<span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Courier New";color:black;font-weight:bold'>
<span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Courier New";color:black;font-weight:bold'>I
would not put spades on my 6A, but it has crossed my mind in those 180mph rolls.
And I do think some of the posts were a bit hard on the guy asking.
<span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Courier New";color:black;font-weight:bold'>
<span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Courier New";color:black;font-weight:bold'>Mike
Stewart
<span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Courier New";color:black;font-weight:bold'>Flying
more than I can afford to.
<span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Courier New";color:black;font-weight:bold'>Do
not archive
<span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Courier New";color:black;font-weight:bold'>
<span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Courier New";color:black;font-weight:bold'>
If you're looking for additional drag, just put all of the antenna's on
<span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Courier New";color:black;font-weight:bold'>the
<span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Courier New";color:black;font-weight:bold'>
outside of the aircraft. (The most I've seen on a RV (so far) is nine (9)
<span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Courier New";color:black;font-weight:bold'>
external antenna's.)
<span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Courier New";color:black;font-weight:bold'>
<span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Courier New";color:black;font-weight:bold'>
:-)
<span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Courier New";color:black;font-weight:bold'>
<span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Courier New";color:black;font-weight:bold'>
Jim Ayers
<span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Courier New";color:black;font-weight:bold'>
Less Drag Products, Inc.
<span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Courier New";color:black;font-weight:bold'>
<span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Courier New";color:black;font-weight:bold'>But
who's counting, eh Jim?
<span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Courier New";color:black;font-weight:bold'>
<span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Courier New";color:black;font-weight:bold'>;-)
<span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Courier New";color:black;font-weight:bold'>
<span
style='font-size:12.0pt;color:black;font-weight:bold'>Randall Henderson
<span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>
<span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>Mike Stewart
<span style='font-size:
12.0pt'>
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
Don't anyone bid on it. IT'S MINE!!!
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
Subject: RV-List: B25
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
>
> Something to fly while you build your RV:
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1874584378
> &category=26428
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry@BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
> Do not archve
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Experience with Van's Gascolator |
--> RV-List message posted by: RGray67968@aol.com
In a message dated 12/15/02 1:20:47 PM Pacific Standard Time,
ripsteel@edge.net writes:
> Has anyone using Van's gascolator (was GAS-3, now GAS-4 in the catalog)
> had any problems with servicing or leaks? I have seen much discussion
> over the merit of using gascolators here on the list for years, but
> would prefer hard experience in deciding on whether to use this one.
> The Andair is nice, just too pricey for my pocketbook, so if the Van's
> unit does the job well, I'd like to know!
>
> Thanks from the PossumWorks in TN
> Mark Phillips
>
Hey Mark...........Mr. Possum :
),
I put Vans gascolator on my RV6. It's mounted as low as possible on the right
side firewall. I made a real nice custom bracket the secures the unit and
added a 'brace' which is kind of a bolt in place strap for the bottom of the
cup. It's not going anywhere. I've got a hole the exact size of the fuel
tester in the lower cowl that goes unnoticed. Mine leaked at the 'O' ring
from jump street anytime the facet pump was on. No leak with the pump off. I
tried about 5 different 'O' rings of different sizes and NONE would eliminate
the little dribble when the pump was on. I finally called vans who put me in
contact with the supplier. They told me they only had 1 or 2 cases of the
'dribbles' and said one of the components must be a tad out of round. They
sent me a NEW unit NO CHARGE and FREE SHIPPING about 3 days later. Although
I've never caught any water in 115 hours, I was glad I had it during the 1st
few tanks of gas. I pulled the screen after 10 hours and found a few micro
particles of ??? Not much but I worry about fuel contamination.
Rick Gray RV6 (Ohio) at the Buffalo Farm (Mr. Buffalo) & would do Vans
Gascolator again no questions asked
archive this one
Message 7
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| Subject: | gascolator mounting. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Moore, Warren" <Warren.Moore@TidelandsOil.com>
I mounted an Andair gascolator on the lower part my RV4 firewall. This
part of the firwall is angled, so while on the ground the gascolator is
pretty much vertical, but in level flight it will tilted forward about
30deg. Is this ok, or should I bend the mounting
ftange to make it more vertical in normal flight?
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Message 8
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RV-list <rv-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Primer and paint question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris <chrisw3@cox.net>
I'm not looking to start a debate even though this probably will I just
had a simple question that I think would take a long time to find in the
archives.
I have been reading about some primers that require you to put the top
coat on with in a short time after putting the primer on. I was
wondering why that is and would be such a primer be ok for areas that
were not going to ever get a top coat (the inside stuff)?
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206 (home)
chrisw@programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
Message 9
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| Subject: | Aircraft for Sale web sites? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
A friend of mine is looking for a Decathlon to buy, so he can get his
license and build time while he works on a RV.
What are the cool advertising web sites out there?
To keep the bandwidth down, could you could email me personally at:
owens@aerovironment.com
It would be greatly appreciated.
Laird RV-6
SoCal
Do Not Archive
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Alternate Engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
Right Bill. Now I know what direction to go. As Jim suggested, I'll have
to put a threaded extension on the pilot. The hole through the Prop shaft
will make this fairly easy to do.
The governor will be the harder part. I had assumed that engine oil
pressure would be sufficient but that is out. I'll probably fall back on
automotive technology and use a power steering pump for the high pressure
oil.
Thanks to all who offered useful info & suggestions.
Tracy
> --> RV-List message posted by: "William Davis" <rvpilot@695online.com>
>
> Tracy,
>
> At the hub pilot. I don't think that .25" is going to do it. If memory
> serves, the pilot is .5 to .75" long. Don't have one handy that I can
> measure.
>
> Bill
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternate Engines
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
> >
> >
> > Thanks for the info Bill. One last question: Where does the O-ring
seal
> at
> > the prop contact the hub, the face of the flange or the hub pilot (2.25"
> > projection in center of hub)? The pilot on my redrive is only .25" long
> and
> > this may not be enough if the seal is at the pilot.
> >
> > Tracy
> >
Message 11
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"vansairforce" <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | Off Topic - Electric Motor |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <n8wv@vondane.com>
I have a Harbor Freight belt sander (as I am sure a lot of you have too) and I
need a new motor... Has any found a good source foe replacement electric motors
that don't cost more then a new tool!?
Thanks...
-Bill
Message 12
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| Subject: | greasy electrons |
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
I think Gus's comment about protection of the switches is important but
slightly off.
The main use of these diodes is to let magnetic energy stored in the coil
releive itself rather than trying to jump across the opening master or
starter switch, causing a life shortening arc.
But, I personally know of several cases where a failed relief diode was
wiping out other integrated circuits, several of which were turned off when
they were wiped out. This was because there was enough capacitance in the
integrated circuit to allow the current surge to backflow and oscillate on
the ground side of the integrated circuit even though it was opened on the
positive side of the circuit. Electrons tend to be very greasy and go
wherever they want, usually when you lest expect it.
Most output drivers for coils used in integrated control circuits use a 70
volt zener doide as a failsafe backup on the outputs and the grounds, but a
circuit not designed to drive coils may not have this protection. In the
spike testing I've done with automotive relays and injector coils I've seen
in excess of 1000 volts, and one multi coil circuit was putting out an
excess of 30 amps for several micro seconds.
So, my point here is do not test fire those solenoids without being sure the
diodes are installed correctly. Or at least pull your expensive toys out
prior to a smoke test of the coils.
W
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: RE: 360 makes 180 hp |
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn williams <willig10@yahoo.com>
What my point was and is. Is this an automotive engine
in an aircraft application will probably last just as
long as a lycoming. However since the airplane engine
is direct drive (for our discussion) the weak link is
rust. On an automotive engine in an aircraft config
the weak link is the reduction drive. I encourage
anyone who wants to pioneer an auto engine to airplane
use. However my personal fear factor will not let me
use this combination on my aircraft. I will go with
the aircraft engine everytime.
Glenn Williams
A&P Fort Worth
do not archive
--- Jim Jewell <jjewell@telus.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell"
> <jjewell@telus.net>
>
> Hi Glenn,
> This might interest you;
>
> Yesterday I saw a January issue of one of the
> aircraft magazines has an
> article on the recently discussed Moony / Porche
> combination. It is pictured
> and listed on the cover.
>
> I drove build and modified a 400 CID GTO engine. I
> then put it in a 70
> Firebird after 85,000 miles I replaced the timing
> chain, Rings and bearings
> and at that time. I also did some more blueprinting
> fine tuning at that
> time. I then proceeded to drive that car well over
> an additional 300,000
> Miles. At about the 200,000 mile point I installed
> new lifters. The engine
> outlasted the car, RUST!. I sold the engine to an
> acquaintance who rebuilt
> the engine the crank was ground .010 the block was
> bored .020 and has been
> driven it for at least eight years now.
> I suppose this is where, like you, my faith in the
> utility and durability of
> automobile power plants comes from.
>
> A lot of Taxi drivers and other commercial operators
> get their engines to
> run just about forever so I don't see the above as
> overly remarkable.
>
> Jim in Kelowna
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill Christie" <billc3@cox.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: 360 makes 180 hp
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Bill Christie"
> <billc3@cox.net>
> >
> > Glenn,
> > I had a Porsche 911S (1971) for 17 years. I bought
> it new and did all my
> own
> > maintenance after the 2 year warranty period. When
> I sold it, I had over
> > 175000 miles on it. At 60 mph average, that is
> 2916 hours. While I played
> > with the engine several times, I never replaced
> the mains or had to turn
> the
> > crank journals. Six months before I sold it, I
> miked out the journals and
> > they were in the center of Porsche's spec limit
> and only a trace of bronze
> > was showing on the bearings. I maintained it
> carefully, but never babied
> it.
> > The first set of Continental tires only lasted
> 8000 miles. I would still
> > have it today except the oldest daughter turned 16
> and State Farm raised
> my
> > insurance significantly (X5). Very reliable and
> would run all day at
> > 3000-3500 RPM (my normal cruise in 5th gear.
> Lycomings and truck diesels
> are
> > not necessarily the only reliable engines.
> >
> > Bill Christie, Phoenix, RV8A
> > Do Not Archive
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "glenn williams" <willig10@yahoo.com>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: 360 makes 180 hp
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: glenn williams
> <willig10@yahoo.com>
> > >
> > > I can agree with a few points in that a lycoming
> will
> > > go to tbo at max continous rated power if it is
> > > maintained well and leaned properly. The only
> thing
> > > besides rust in a lycoming that is suspect are
> the
> > > jugs. since the engine is air cooled the
> temperature
> > > variance between the spark plug holes and the
> intake
> > > and exhaust ports goes from near freezing to
> let's say
> > > for the sake of conversation above 1500 degrees
> F.
> > > that sets up a stress point inside the head and
> will
> > > cause the typical cylinder crack from hole to
> hole
> > > (intake/exhaust) The lower half of the engine
> will go
> > > easily up past 6000 hours if regular oil changes
> are
> > > performed. A top overhaul is roughly $4400.00 if
> you
> > > do your own maintenance through the span life of
> the
> > > engine 6000 hours and 3 sets of cylinders is a
> good
> > > price to pay. I have personally witnessed an
> 0-320E2D
> > > go this distance and is still in service. After
> his
> > > lower end overhaul the bottom end crank journals
> and
> > > bearings were right down the middle and were
> still
> > > serviceable. I would like to see a car engine
> perform
> > > that well.
> > >
> > > Glenn Williams
> > > A&P Fort Worth
> > > do not archive
> > >
> > > --- Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us> wrote:
> > > > --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North
> > > > <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
> > > >
> > > > Actually you are incorrect, I did not write
> "FULL
> > > > TIME" I cut and pasted
> > > > that entire statement directly from the
> previous
> > > > post. Below that I then cut
> > > > and pasted the engine data directly from the
> TC.
> > > >
> > > > FAA requires the Type Certificate to list max
> > > > continuous power for every
> > > > engine certified under that TC.
> > > >
> > > > TBO is established by the Manufacturer using
> > > > criteria set forth by the FAA
> > > > in an Advisory Circular, I don't remember
> which one.
> > > > But, max continuous
> > > > means just that, until it wears out. I
> remember the
> > > > AC requiring testing at
> > > > many power levels and very different types of
> > > > testing to determine TBO, but
> > > > the engine should be able to make TBO at any
> power
> > > > setting, given no other
> > > > misuse, or mismaintenance. They then require
> > > > commercial use of the engine to
> > > > follow manfacturer's recommendations which
> includes
> > > > TBO. This has no
> > > > exclusion for engines that have been run at
> full
> > > > power a lot or a little.
> > > >
> > > > The FAA isn't going to certify something that
> the
> > > > testing didn't allow for.
> > > >
> > > > What kills these engines prematurely is
> corrosion
> > > > mostly as they sit around
> > > > and rust, then get run, and the corroded areas
> then
> > > > wear at an accelerated
> > > > rate.
> > > >
> > > > I personally have flown an under powered
> Cherokee
> > > > 140 at full power its
> > > > entire service life doing photo runs and it
> easily
> > > > made TBO because we were
> > > > running daily flights.
> > > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: LarryRobertHelming
> > > > [mailto:lhelming@sigecom.net]
> > > > To: Wheeler North
> > > > Subject: 360 makes 180 hp
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > You wrote, "Who says??? Does Lycoming say
> that
=== message truncated ===
=====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
Message 14
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| Subject: | Colorado Builders |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gannon, Terence" <Terence.Gannon@trican.ca>
Folks -- anybody who either knows or has an email address for Orlo
Ellison, in Colorado, please contact me off list. He flies (or at least
flew, at one point), a plane called a Lockheed 60. Thank you very much
and sorry for the interruption. Best regards...
Terry in Calgary
RV-6 S/N 24414
"Wings"
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Airfoil Diagram & Van's Fuel Valve |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
The following post indicated that I made the "throw away" comment on Vans
fuel valve but I didn't. Please be more accurate when you cut and paste to
avoid offending innocent non offensive contributers to this list.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Airfoil Diagram & Van's Fuel Valve
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> >
> > > Best advice for that fuel valve from Van's is to throw it directly
into
> > the
> > > nearest trash can and buy something airworthy.
> > >
> > > Do not Archive
>
> I cussed my Van's valve for awhile too. After taking it apart and
noticing
> the tapered cylinder shape I understood why it got sticky. From then on I
> would lift up slightly on the handle when I turned it and never had a
> problem again. I later eliminated all valves with my EFI fuel system.
>
> Do Not Archive
>
> Tracy Crook
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Off Topic - Electric Motor |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
Hi Bill-
My HF sander (4" belt, 6" disc) combo just got replaced after 4 years of hard abuse
because the sprocket on the motor finally stripped out & trashed the belt
etc.- HF told me they couldn't get spares-
bought an almost identical unit from Lowes marketed as a "Delta" that probably
came off the same assembly line and cheerfully paid the $90 or so just because
I get so much use out of it. Send me a
photo of the motor if you can (or model # of the unit and/or motor) and if it's
the same as my old one you can have the motor!
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark do not achive
Bill VonDane wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <n8wv@vondane.com>
>
> I have a Harbor Freight belt sander (as I am sure a lot of you have too) and
I need a new motor... Has any found a good source foe replacement electric motors
that don't cost more then a new tool!?
>
> Thanks...
>
> -Bill
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron spades |
--> RV-List message posted by: panamared2@brier.net
There was an article in XX Years of the RVator. Owner put full span
ailerons on his RV-4 and to lessen the stick forces he added spades. He
used the RV for competion aerobatics. He was an aerobatic instructor at a
west coast aerobatic school. He stated that above 155 mph the aircraft was
not too stable in roll axis.
Bob
>Has anyone tried putting spades on the ailerons? If so, did you fabricate
>them yourself or buy some "off the shelf"? How difficult was the
>installation?
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Airfoil Diagram & Van's Fuel Valve |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
A thousand pardons Norman. I'll work on those C&P skills.
Tracy Crook
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Airfoil Diagram & Van's Fuel Valve
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
>
> The following post indicated that I made the "throw away" comment on Vans
> fuel valve but I didn't. Please be more accurate when you cut and paste to
> avoid offending innocent non offensive contributers to this list.
>
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Airfoil Diagram & Van's Fuel Valve
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> > >
> > > > Best advice for that fuel valve from Van's is to throw it directly
> into
> > > the
> > > > nearest trash can and buy something airworthy.
> > > >
> > > > Do not Archive
> >
> > I cussed my Van's valve for awhile too. After taking it apart and
> noticing
> > the tapered cylinder shape I understood why it got sticky. From then on
I
> > would lift up slightly on the handle when I turned it and never had a
> > problem again. I later eliminated all valves with my EFI fuel system.
> >
> > Do Not Archive
> >
> > Tracy Crook
> >
> >
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron spades |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
HI Mike,
I agree with you totally, and I'll add my 2 cents....
I know what your talking about above 170 for rolls but everyone needs to
remember there is a HUGE difference between extra's and RV's, Both of which
I have time in.
In an Extra, a full Aileron Deflection (or any control surface) at almost
any speed is structurally approved - the RV is NOT. Full deflection of
control surfaces at high speeds will most likely result in some sort of
structural failure somewhere, hence a Vno. The control surfaces and wing on
the Extra are symmetrical, the wing has 0 dihedral, etc...(Not to mention
that it's a +/-10G plane). I love to do rolls at high speeds just like you,
and yes the ailerons are stiff at that speed, but like you said it's the
plane talking to you.
Hope this doesn't start a war, certainly not intended to and I personally
never meant to flame the guy who asked!
Happy Flying,
Stein Bruch
RV6-N664SB, Flying
RV7-N174SB, TAIL KIT DELIVERED AND INVENTORIED TODAY - WHAT AN AWESOME
KIT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Do Not Archive
--> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
>And on topic, I have too been curious about the use of spades. On my 6A, I
>would say they feel balanced below 170mph. Anything higher and the force
can
>get heavy. Course this force is the plane talking to you, which I agree
>with. But having spent quite a bit of time in an Extra 300 with spades,
they
>sure do make acro easier on your body.
>I would not put spades on my 6A, but it has crossed my mind in those 180mph
>rolls. And I do think some of the posts were a bit hard on the guy asking.
>Mike Stewart
>Flying more than I can afford to.
Message 20
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| Subject: | RE: Chris Primers & topcoats |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dick DeCramer" <diesel@rconnect.com>
Chris...
Contrary to most responses, most primers do NOT provide a good moisture barrier
and require a topcoat (paint) to seal the surface. Most modern primers must
be coated within an allowable time frame to affect a chemical bond with the overcoat
which is the ultimate purpose of using primer. There is another bonding
called a mechanical bond which means scuff sanding the primer so the paint can
adhere to the now rougher primer which works but is not as effective as a chemical
bond. Primers are designed to make paint adhere better and should be
applied according to the manufacturers bulletins to perform well including the
time factor as the chemical makeup varies from brand to brand.
Dick DeCramer
RV6
a novice but experienced painter
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Primer and paint question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Chris,
I think you are looking for a 'primer sealer' get in touch with your nearest
industrial or automotive paint supplier and ask for information sheets. The
two part epoxys are one of several choices. Whatever you end up using don't
put it on thick.
Search using < primer sealer > in the archives and see what comes up.
Jim in Kelowna
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris" <chrisw3@cox.net>
<rv-list@matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List: Primer and paint question
> --> RV-List message posted by: Chris <chrisw3@cox.net>
>
> I'm not looking to start a debate even though this probably will I just
> had a simple question that I think would take a long time to find in the
> archives.
>
> I have been reading about some primers that require you to put the top
> coat on with in a short time after putting the primer on. I was
> wondering why that is and would be such a primer be ok for areas that
> were not going to ever get a top coat (the inside stuff)?
>
> --
> Chris Woodhouse
> 3147 SW 127th St.
> Oklahoma City, OK 73170
> 405-691-5206 (home)
> chrisw@programmer.net
> N35 20.492'
> W97 34.342'
>
>
Message 22
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--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
It was Scott Riddell (and his son; they both flew aerobatics and the son
{Scott} was/is really quite good), the father worked for Sean Tucker's
Aerobatic School over here in Salinas, California. The spades were put on
their RV-4 ailerons to lessen the control pressures (Scott the son demanded
very light & nimble controls). I currently have full span ailerons on my
RV-4. I have tried spades and find them un-necessary. I don't compete
anymore (though I still belong to IAC) so I no longer spend hours doing aero
practice. When I do "play" I only spend 20-30 minutes "Cloud Dancing"
(legal disclaimer: ALL minimums/clearances/regs/etc... ad infinitum
maintained while flying). The pressures of full-span (really only about
85-90% span) are heavy, but acceptable to me in non-competition flight.
Chuck
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <panamared2@brier.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aileron spades
> --> RV-List message posted by: panamared2@brier.net
>
> There was an article in XX Years of the RVator. Owner put full span
> ailerons on his RV-4 and to lessen the stick forces he added spades. He
> used the RV for competion aerobatics. He was an aerobatic instructor at a
> west coast aerobatic school. He stated that above 155 mph the aircraft
was
> not too stable in roll axis.
>
> Bob
>
>
> >Has anyone tried putting spades on the ailerons? If so, did you
fabricate
> >them yourself or buy some "off the shelf"? How difficult was the
> >installation?
>
>
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Throttle Quadrants |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Jones" <phil.jones@medpacs.com>
Does anyone have any thoughts on putting Throttle Quadrants in a rv7a rather then
Vernier & Push-Pull in the panel? All my flying life I have never like that
I have to use my left hand to fly with and my "good" hand to just control the
engine. Is there any reason(s) (other then the co-pilot would have problem getting
at them) that I might be missing.
Phil Jones
Hartland WI
RV7A right wing
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: RE: 360 makes 180 hp |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
Someone (who cares who) wrote:
>However my personal fear factor will not let me
>use this combination on my aircraft. I will go with
>the aircraft engine everytime.
Several of you have said that you would not like a converted auto engine in
your aircraft. I hate to sound callous but I don't give a damn. Your
personal feelings are probably not of interest to most of the list. At
very least, include Do Not Archive.
Let's keep our feelings to ourselves.
No one cares who I am.
Message 25
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| Subject: | gascolator mounting. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts@unionsafe.com>
I'd just make sure the drain on the gascolator is at the lowest point when
you are sitting 3-point on the ground.
RV-4 N311SV (waiting for airworthiness inspection)
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Manager
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Moore, Warren [mailto:Warren.Moore@tidelandsoil.com]
Subject: RV-List: gascolator mounting.
--> RV-List message posted by: "Moore, Warren"
<Warren.Moore@TidelandsOil.com>
I mounted an Andair gascolator on the lower part my RV4 firewall. This
part of the firwall is angled, so while on the ground the gascolator is
pretty much vertical, but in level flight it will tilted forward about
30deg. Is this ok, or should I bend the mounting
ftange to make it more vertical in normal flight?
eJ8+IjYRAQaQCAAEAAAAAAABAAEAAQeQBgAIAAAA5AQAAAAAAADoAAEIgAcAGAAAAElQTS5NaWNy
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MEM2MkY0RDMxMUJCMTgwMDUwOEI4QkZDMUMxNzNBMzVAbG9jdXR1cz4AAAAAAFY
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Throttle Quadrants |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Joshua Siler" <joshs@ninatek.com>
Running all the avionics takes quite a bit of dexterity in an IFR
environment - not a good time to take your hand off the stick to rotate
a couple OBS knobs, set up the GPS, dial in the next frequency, set the
transponder etc. VFR its probably doable.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phil Jones
Subject: RV-List: Throttle Quadrants
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Jones" <phil.jones@medpacs.com>
Does anyone have any thoughts on putting Throttle Quadrants in a rv7a
rather then Vernier & Push-Pull in the panel? All my flying life I have
never like that I have to use my left hand to fly with and my "good"
hand to just control the engine. Is there any reason(s) (other then the
co-pilot would have problem getting at them) that I might be missing.
Phil Jones
Hartland WI
RV7A right wing
=
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: Throttle Quadrants |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
There's nothing that says you can't design to fly from the right seat and
some RV6s already are.
But there's also quite a few examples out there of RV6s with left side
throttle quadrants. Look through the archives.
do not archive
>From: "Phil Jones" <phil.jones@medpacs.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Throttle Quadrants
>Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 13:45:26 -0600
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Jones" <phil.jones@medpacs.com>
>
>Does anyone have any thoughts on putting Throttle Quadrants in a rv7a
>rather then Vernier & Push-Pull in the panel? All my flying life I have
>never like that I have to use my left hand to fly with and my "good" hand
>to just control the engine. Is there any reason(s) (other then the co-pilot
>would have problem getting at them) that I might be missing.
>
>Phil Jones
>Hartland WI
>RV7A right wing
>
>
Message 28
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|
SoCAL-RVlist <SoCAL-RVlist@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | Aircraft for Sale Web Site |
--> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
Thanks to all those who sent along messages.
Mission accomplished.
Laird RV-6
Message 29
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glenn P. Wilkinson" <gpw@accucomm.net>
-Has anyone tried paint stripper for fiberglass? Results, Problems?
-Has anyone used Randolph's water-based polyurethane paint? Results, Problems?
Glenn
654RV
Milledgeville, GA (MLJ)
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: Throttle Quadrants |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
I've heard that the plans for the left-side throttle in a Falco are
quite good, but I haven't seen the layout myself. So far I haven't seen
a left-side throttle arrangement that I liked, there always seems to be
a little slop in the system, or the system is too "tight", or whatever.
So for me it's a single throttle in the middle, although in a
different configuration.
My plan for my RV-7 is to fly it from the right seat. In addition to
that, i'm planning on a center-mounted throttle quadrant, between the
seats. I have a surplus throttle quadrant from an F-104 or -105 that I
plan to use for this. It has a built in "speed brake" switch
(extend-retract) which I plan to wire to the flaps, a PTT, and an IGN
(ignition?) switch.
I haven't worked out the geometry of exactly where it will go yet, but I
expect to mount the pivot point for it either just ahead of or just
behind the forward spar, and have an arm on it long enough to get the
handle up above my legs.
Someday i'll start making marks on drawings and get something mocked up,
when I get that far i'll put something on my website.
-RB4
RV7 Empennage
Phil Jones wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Jones" <phil.jones@medpacs.com>
>
> Does anyone have any thoughts on putting Throttle Quadrants in a rv7a rather
then Vernier & Push-Pull in the panel? All my flying life I have never like that
I have to use my left hand to fly with and my "good" hand to just control the
engine. Is there any reason(s) (other then the co-pilot would have problem
getting at them) that I might be missing.
>
> Phil Jones
> Hartland WI
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: Andair products fuel line fitting size? |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
My Andair fuel valve uses 3/8 fittings in and out.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, electrical (still)
Message 32
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Piavis <piavis@pacbell.net>
I procured an older Chicago Pneumatic squeezer model CP-251. This tool was
evidently used for serious aircraft production in the 40's and came with a
huge honkin' c-frame that weighs about 15 lbs (power unit is actually fairly
light), and has a reach depth of about 6 inches. Unfortunately it needs some
really long rivet sets. This tool has a CP-1 yoke frame and will accommodate
a standard c-frame for a newer CP-351 squeezer (heavy duty). Does anyone
have a source for these c-frames? The "standard" c-frame has a 2 1/8" reach
with a Chicago Pneumatic part number P-009530. A local air tool supply wants
almost $400 for a standard c-frame and I think I can have one machined for
half that. Don't confuse this model for the CP-215 model which is generally
the smaller one available from Avery/ Brown etc.
Please reply off line as I only receive the digest.
Thanks,
Jim Piavis
Mountain View, CA
RV-7 waiting on wings
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | C-Frame for Rivet Squeezer |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Piavis <piavis@pacbell.net>
I procured an older Chicago Pneumatic squeezer model CP-251. This tool was
evidently used for serious aircraft production in the 40's and came with a
huge honkin' c-frame that weighs about 15 lbs (power unit is actually fairly
light), and has a reach depth of about 6 inches. Unfortunately it needs some
really long rivet sets. This tool has a CP-1 yoke frame and will accommodate
a standard c-frame for a newer CP-351 squeezer (heavy duty). Does anyone
have a source for these c-frames? The "standard" c-frame has a 2 1/8" reach
with a Chicago Pneumatic part number P-009530. A local air tool supply wants
almost $400 for a standard c-frame and I think I can have one machined for
half that. Don't confuse this model for the CP-215 model which is generally
the smaller one available from Avery/ Brown etc.
Please reply off line as I only receive the digest.
Thanks,
Jim Piavis
Mountain View, CA
RV-7 waiting on wings
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | C-Frame for Rivet Squeezer |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ed_Cole@maximhq.com
Jim,
have you talked with Ace Campbell on this ? He might be able to help .
Ed Cole
Maxim Integrated Products
Bldg. 120 Ext. 6605
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Piavis [SMTP:piavis@pacbell.net]
> Sent: Monday, December 16, 2002 2:16 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: C-Frame for Rivet Squeezer
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Piavis <piavis@pacbell.net>
>
> I procured an older Chicago Pneumatic squeezer model CP-251. This tool was
> evidently used for serious aircraft production in the 40's and came with a
> huge honkin' c-frame that weighs about 15 lbs (power unit is actually
> fairly
> light), and has a reach depth of about 6 inches. Unfortunately it needs
> some
> really long rivet sets. This tool has a CP-1 yoke frame and will
> accommodate
> a standard c-frame for a newer CP-351 squeezer (heavy duty). Does anyone
> have a source for these c-frames? The "standard" c-frame has a 2 1/8"
> reach
> with a Chicago Pneumatic part number P-009530. A local air tool supply
> wants
> almost $400 for a standard c-frame and I think I can have one machined for
> half that. Don't confuse this model for the CP-215 model which is
> generally
> the smaller one available from Avery/ Brown etc.
>
> Please reply off line as I only receive the digest.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Piavis
> Mountain View, CA
> RV-7 waiting on wings
>
>
>
>
>
Maxim Home Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com
Products Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
New Products:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
Datasheets:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
The information contained in this message is confidential
and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Re: Aileron spades |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Compton" <rdcompton@earthlink.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Aileron spades
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>
> Prae Tell Why???
>
>
> Stein Bruch
> Do Not Archive
Never flown a plane with spades, have you?
Randy Compton
RV-3 N84VF
Gulf Breeze, FL
Do Not Archive
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron spades |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Compton" <rdcompton@earthlink.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "KostaLewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Aileron spades
> --> RV-List message posted by: "KostaLewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
>
>
> >> Has anyone tried putting spades on the ailerons?
>
> >Why?
>
> Exactly. You will be hard pressed to find controls as harmonized and
> perfectly balanced as those on the RV series. Why add weight and
> complexity for something you may not need?
>
> Unless you want to, of course.
>
> Michael
Hogwash.
Randy Compton
RV-3 N84VF
Gulf Breeze, FL
Do Not Archive
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron spades |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Compton" <rdcompton@earthlink.net>
> No flames intended here, but, have you ever flown an RV??????
Yes, I have. I own and fly an RV-3.
> The LAST thing in the world it needs is spades! Have you ever flown an
> airplane with spades? Spades are an attempt to make a lesser design fly
> like an RV.
No flames intented here, but have YOU ever flown a plane with spades? I
have, and they are an absolute delight in roll. I really don't think
putting spades on a Pitts or an Extra is done so as to make "a lesser design
fly like an RV."
> At any speed where you should be leaning on the ailerons, they control
> forces are very light. As you approach 200 mph they stiffen up a little,
I find that at 150 knots (about 173mph) the control forces do more than
stiffen up a "little." But then again here I go comparing the forces to
machines like the Pitts, or the F-14, or the A-4.
> still they are perfectly harmonious
At 150 knots the forces are not harmonious. On my -3 anyway the controls
are much more sensitive in pitch than in roll. But if this is what defines
"harmonious", then I need to get back to my Aero 410 Flight Test professor
and set him straight.
>and the stiffness only serves to warn you that you are smokin at speeds far
>in excess of the manuvering speed and you might want to push more carefully
>on all the control surfaces.
About the only thing I agree with you on so far. Yes, at 150 knots I am
above the manuvering speed and caution is advised.
One thing though, everyone seems to be pointing out this natural tendency of
the plane to "warn" about high speed, but this is only in roll. There seems
to be no concern about any warning in pitch...and according to Van at the
Vne of 186kias in an RV-3 there are 17g's available. Seems you'd want some
type of limiting feel here as well...if you want to be consistent with your
opposition to spades based on control feel.
> Remember, an RV is not a "great aerobatic airplane." It does great
> aerobatics, but attempting to expand it's aerobatic envelope might lead to
a
> bad day.
Aha! Another point of agreement.
> DO NOT put spades on an RV. That of course is only my opinion..... You
>can do what ever you choose. That is why they call it "experimental."
No, I probably won't fool with spades. I doubt the airframe would be able
to handle the stress of large stick displacements at higher speeds. Spades
would make it too easy to snap the stick over and turn the horizon into a
blur. Who wants that crap?
> In my humble opinion....
>Tailwinds,
>Doug Rozendaal
"Humble" ?? Oh my, here we go disagreeing again. But no flames intended,
you understand.
Randy Compton
RV-3 N84VF
Gulf Breeze, FL
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | Re: Aileron spades |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Compton" <rdcompton@earthlink.net>
> Since the ailerons on my RV-3 only seem to get heavy above the maneuvering
> speed, I would guess that you do not want to lighten the ailerons.
That's exactly why I want spades...but maybe the airframe isn't stressed to
take it. That's why I posted this question...probably should have stuck it
on the aerobatic list. I'll know better next time.
Randy Compton
RV-3 N84VF
Gulf Breeze, FL
Do Not Archive
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Re: Aileron spades |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Compton" <rdcompton@earthlink.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aileron spades
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Chris <chrisw3@cox.net>
> >
> > What are Aileron spades?
> >
>
> A kludge attempt to get RV aileron forces on airplanes of inferior control
> harmony.
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
Well I'll be darn! I never knew an Extra was of "inferior control harmony."
Now I can scratch one of those inferior things off of my Christmas wish list
and not worry about having to win the lottery to pay for it.
'Preciate you setting me straight!
Randy Compton
RV-3 N84VF
Gulf Breeze, FL
Do Not Archive
Message 40
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|
| Subject: | Re: Seat Belt Weights |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
No takers with this post?
Can some one at least second the request for weight data?
I am interested as I will spend extra money to save weight. The last time
(years ago) I priced out the Scrotch they were extremely expensive but I
understand they are popular with the big buck glider guys. Can some one post
a weight please.
I did get from Jim J that his stock Vans belts (no longer avialable) are
2.25 lbs per seat.
Norman Hunger
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
>
> I would like to see postings with the weights of the various seat belt
manufactors posted on the RV List.
> Lets keep things apples to apples and list only single seat weights of 5
point systems not including the cable that Van supplies.
>
> Scrotch
>
> Simpson
>
> Hooker
>
> Any others?
> Please include web addresses, source of purchase, and prices. I'm sure
this compelation will be very valuble to many listers and the archives.
>
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
> Do not archive until supplying answers.
>
>
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: Throttle Quadrants |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
Check the archives. My Tracy Saylor supplied system works VERY well...
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Prior" <rv7@b4.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Throttle Quadrants
> --> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
>
> I've heard that the plans for the left-side throttle in a Falco are
> quite good, but I haven't seen the layout myself. So far I haven't seen
> a left-side throttle arrangement that I liked, there always seems to be
> a little slop in the system, or the system is too "tight", or whatever.
> So for me it's a single throttle in the middle, although in a
> different configuration.
>
> My plan for my RV-7 is to fly it from the right seat. In addition to
> that, i'm planning on a center-mounted throttle quadrant, between the
> seats. I have a surplus throttle quadrant from an F-104 or -105 that I
> plan to use for this. It has a built in "speed brake" switch
> (extend-retract) which I plan to wire to the flaps, a PTT, and an IGN
> (ignition?) switch.
>
> I haven't worked out the geometry of exactly where it will go yet, but I
> expect to mount the pivot point for it either just ahead of or just
> behind the forward spar, and have an arm on it long enough to get the
> handle up above my legs.
>
> Someday i'll start making marks on drawings and get something mocked up,
> when I get that far i'll put something on my website.
>
> -RB4
> RV7 Empennage
>
> Phil Jones wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Jones" <phil.jones@medpacs.com>
> >
> > Does anyone have any thoughts on putting Throttle Quadrants in a rv7a
rather then Vernier & Push-Pull in the panel? All my flying life I have
never like that I have to use my left hand to fly with and my "good" hand to
just control the engine. Is there any reason(s) (other then the co-pilot
would have problem getting at them) that I might be missing.
> >
> > Phil Jones
> > Hartland WI
>
>
Message 42
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" <rick07x@earthlink.net>
NASA's latest experiments in wing warping have inspired me. However, after
ruling out a wing warping apparatus on my RV-6A as a little too ambitious, I
have decided to install honeycomb composite canards instead. Please
listers, and you know who you are, don't hesitate to come forward with
dead-on insights as to the optimum surface area, station location,
and angle of incidence values needed for the flight parameters of an RV-6A.
Don't hold back. Coupled with an alternative engine that can run on
the flammable fumes of combustible tie-wrap, I just might be
on to something uncontroversial! Randy, if you are out
there buddy, I feel your pain. --- Rick Galati
--- rick07x@earthlink.net
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: gascolator mounting. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
"Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts@unionsafe.com>
>
> I'd just make sure the drain on the gascolator is at the lowest point when
> you are sitting 3-point on the ground.
>
> RV-4 N311SV (waiting for airworthiness inspection)
I don't think there is any way possible to get a firewall-mounted
gascolator drain (and keep the gascolator within the cowl...) to be the
lowest point in the fuel system of a taildragger RV with the little
wheel on the ground!
I suspect that is why we have sumps on each tank. ;-)
That is also why some builders doubt the value of a gascolator........
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, gascolated due to tradition)
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron spades |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
Randy:
Have you considered an aerodynamically boosted aileron? It would be quite a
bit more complex to make than a spade, but cleaner in cruise. And you only
have to do one side.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
-6 wings
Message 45
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| Subject: | Best $300 I ever spent / garage heater |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ross Schlotthauer <rdschlotthauer@yahoo.com>
RVers,
I broke down and spent the best $300 of the project a
couple weeks ago. I have a small unheated hanger that
is attached to the side of my house, sits in a
residential neighborhood, and is commonly referered to
as a "two car garage" by non RV types. I found that
as winter set in here in north Idaho I began to spend
less and less time in the hanger due to quite
uncomfortable temperatures. I really wanted to have
some heat out there but figured it was no use without
insulation. I have essential building equipment on
all walls and in every corner of the hanger and
couldn't stomach the thought of giving up precious
building time insulating. I also have a two car
uninsulated metal rollup door that I figured would be
a hassle to try and insulate.
It was suggested to me by one of my fellow energy
concious Idahoans that I just buy a big heater and
forget about insulation. That mentality appealed to
me greatly so I went down to Lowes home improvement
and bought a 30,000 btu/hour vent free natural gas
heater with a thermostatically controlled blower and
all the plumbing fixins. I set it in the corner by my
gas water heater and furnace and fired it up. In
about 30 minutes it brings my hanger temp from 40
degrees F to 65 degrees F and I have to either turn it
down or work in shorts.
I calculate that I am burning $0.24 per hour worth of
gas when I am running full power on the heater. For
that price I can afford to throw a little heat
outside. I highly recommend the $300 investment to
anyone.
Ross Schlotthauer
RV7 Fuse (in comfort)
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron spades |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
Feel better now. :-)
Do Not Archive
Message 47
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| Subject: | gascolator mounting. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts@unionsafe.com>
True, the back of the tanks will be lower sitting on the ground. I just
figured that anything that does get caught in the bottom of the gascolator
will drain easier since one would hope you'd be doing the draining while it
was sitting tail-low on the ground. Of course that will only work for water
and small particles, not for larger objects that might get caught in the
bottom of your gascolator like twigs and deer.
It's what I did on mine. But I haven't flown yet and I'm no expert. I'll
let you know if I find any twigs or deer in my gascolator when I post my
first flight report which should be soon.
For those of you who have no sense of humor, uh, too bad.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Manager
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Sam Buchanan [mailto:sbuc@hiwaay.net]
Subject: Re: RV-List: gascolator mounting.
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
"Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Van Artsdalen, Scott"
<svanarts@unionsafe.com>
>
> I'd just make sure the drain on the gascolator is at the lowest point when
> you are sitting 3-point on the ground.
>
> RV-4 N311SV (waiting for airworthiness inspection)
I don't think there is any way possible to get a firewall-mounted
gascolator drain (and keep the gascolator within the cowl...) to be the
lowest point in the fuel system of a taildragger RV with the little
wheel on the ground!
I suspect that is why we have sumps on each tank. ;-)
That is also why some builders doubt the value of a gascolator........
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, gascolated due to tradition)
Message 48
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts@unionsafe.com>
I think you're trying to fit the RV into a mission profile for which it
wasn't designed. I don't know Van all that well but I think I understand
what he designed these planes for and it wasn't hardcore aerobatics. You
may have to stick with the Pitts' and Extra's and so forth.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Manager
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Randy Compton [mailto:rdcompton@earthlink.net]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aileron spades
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Compton" <rdcompton@earthlink.net>
> No flames intended here, but, have you ever flown an RV??????
Yes, I have. I own and fly an RV-3.
> The LAST thing in the world it needs is spades! Have you ever flown an
> airplane with spades? Spades are an attempt to make a lesser design fly
> like an RV.
No flames intented here, but have YOU ever flown a plane with spades? I
have, and they are an absolute delight in roll. I really don't think
putting spades on a Pitts or an Extra is done so as to make "a lesser design
fly like an RV."
> At any speed where you should be leaning on the ailerons, they control
> forces are very light. As you approach 200 mph they stiffen up a little,
I find that at 150 knots (about 173mph) the control forces do more than
stiffen up a "little." But then again here I go comparing the forces to
machines like the Pitts, or the F-14, or the A-4.
> still they are perfectly harmonious
At 150 knots the forces are not harmonious. On my -3 anyway the controls
are much more sensitive in pitch than in roll. But if this is what defines
"harmonious", then I need to get back to my Aero 410 Flight Test professor
and set him straight.
>and the stiffness only serves to warn you that you are smokin at speeds far
>in excess of the manuvering speed and you might want to push more carefully
>on all the control surfaces.
About the only thing I agree with you on so far. Yes, at 150 knots I am
above the manuvering speed and caution is advised.
One thing though, everyone seems to be pointing out this natural tendency of
the plane to "warn" about high speed, but this is only in roll. There seems
to be no concern about any warning in pitch...and according to Van at the
Vne of 186kias in an RV-3 there are 17g's available. Seems you'd want some
type of limiting feel here as well...if you want to be consistent with your
opposition to spades based on control feel.
> Remember, an RV is not a "great aerobatic airplane." It does great
> aerobatics, but attempting to expand it's aerobatic envelope might lead to
a
> bad day.
Aha! Another point of agreement.
> DO NOT put spades on an RV. That of course is only my opinion..... You
>can do what ever you choose. That is why they call it "experimental."
No, I probably won't fool with spades. I doubt the airframe would be able
to handle the stress of large stick displacements at higher speeds. Spades
would make it too easy to snap the stick over and turn the horizon into a
blur. Who wants that crap?
> In my humble opinion....
>Tailwinds,
>Doug Rozendaal
"Humble" ?? Oh my, here we go disagreeing again. But no flames intended,
you understand.
Randy Compton
RV-3 N84VF
Gulf Breeze, FL
Message 49
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--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
On Mon, 16 Dec 2002, Rick Galati wrote:
> NASA's latest experiments in wing warping have inspired me.
--snip--
Okay, I take it back: some people can make humour work in email.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
-6 wings
Message 50
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| Subject: | CFI required for RV6 or RV4 training |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stuart Driver" <sdrivers@aaahawk.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stuart Driver" <sdrivers@aaahawk.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 45 Msgs - 12/14/02
Second try with this message.
> Help! I have to get 5 hours logged with a CFI (including 10 take offs and
> landings) in order to get insurance coverage for my recently purchased
RV4.
> Does anyone know where I could achieve this in South Florida. RV6 or RV4
> time is acceptable TIA SSD Do not archive.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "RV-List Digest Server" <rv-list-digest@matronics.com>
> To: "RV-List Digest List" <rv-list-digest@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2002 2:57 AM
> Subject: RV-List Digest: 45 Msgs - 12/14/02
>
>
> > *
> >
> > ==================================================
> > Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> > ==================================================
> >
> > Today's complete RV-List Digest can be also be found in either
> > of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
> > formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features
Hyperlinked
> > Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII
> > version of the RV-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic
> > text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser.
> >
> > HTML Version:
> >
> >
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list/Digest.RV-List.2002-12-14.html
> >
> > Text Version:
> >
> >
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list/Digest.RV-List.2002-12-14.txt
> >
> >
> > ================================================
> > EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> > ================================================
> >
> >
> > RV-List Digest Archive
> > ---
> > Total Messages Posted Sat 12/14/02: 45
> >
> >
> > Today's Message Index:
> > ----------------------
> >
> > 1. 12:18 AM - Re: RV-List Digest: 63 Msgs - 12/12/02
> (j1j2h3@juno.com)
> > 2. 03:49 AM - RV-8 Fuselage Jig ()
> > 3. 04:30 AM - Van's instrument lighting ? (BillRVSIX@aol.com)
> > 4. 05:35 AM - Re: Service Bulletin (Rick Galati)
> > 5. 07:20 AM - Re: How do you secure wiring harnesses in the aft
> fuselage? (Sam Buchanan)
> > 6. 07:31 AM - Re: Alternate Engines (Bobby Hester)
> > 7. 08:04 AM - Re: Protection diodes on starter solenoid (Charlie
and
> Tupper England)
> > 8. 08:05 AM - Re: Protection diodes on starter solenoid
> (RV4PatA@aol.com)
> > 9. 08:31 AM - Re: Alternate Engines (lm4@juno.com)
> > 10. 09:20 AM - Re: Protection diodes on starter solenoid (Gert)
> > 11. 09:36 AM - Alternate Engines (Eustace Bowhay)
> > 12. 09:51 AM - Re: Protection diodes on starter solenoid (Robert
> McCallum)
> > 13. 10:09 AM - Re: Alternate Engines (Dr. Leathers)
> > 14. 10:45 AM - Re: Princeton capacitive fuel level probes (Eustace
> Bowhay)
> > 15. 11:01 AM - Alternate Engines, suggestions, etc
(JRWillJR@aol.com)
> > 16. 11:09 AM - Re: Protection diodes on starter solenoid (Elsa &
> Henry)
> > 17. 11:28 AM - Sport Aviation Mag and a Scanner (Not RV-Related)
> (Gannon, Terence)
> > 18. 11:46 AM - Re: TBO (Kevin Horton)
> > 19. 12:04 PM - Re: Protection diodes on starter solenoid (Elsa &
> Henry)
> > 20. 12:14 PM - Re: Protection diodes on starter solenoid (Jim
Jewell)
> > 21. 12:19 PM - Re: How do you secure wiring harnesses in the aft
> fuselage? (Miller Robert)
> > 22. 12:32 PM - Re: Alternate Engines (Tracy Crook)
> > 23. 12:37 PM - Re: sliders & tip-up (Norman)
> > 24. 12:55 PM - Re: Airfoil Diagram & Van's Fuel Valve (Norman)
> > 25. 01:16 PM - Re: TBO (Jerry Springer)
> > 26. 01:23 PM - Seat Belt Weights (Norman)
> > 27. 01:28 PM - Re: Protection diodes on starter solenoid (Todd
Houg)
> > 28. 01:28 PM - Re: Airfoil Diagram & Van's Fuel Valve (Tracy Crook)
> > 29. 01:36 PM - Re: Protection diodes on starter solenoid (Charlie
and
> Tupper England)
> > 30. 01:37 PM - Re: Issue with upper baggage bulkhead (Dave Stewart)
> > 31. 02:15 PM - Re: Airfoil Diagram & Van's Fuel Valve (Kevin
Horton)
> > 32. 02:59 PM - Re: Airfoil Diagram & Van's Fuel Valve (Alex
Peterson)
> > 33. 03:36 PM - Re: RV-8 Fuselage Jig (Phil Sisson, Litchfield
> Aerobatic Club)
> > 34. 03:38 PM - Re: Protection diodes on starter solenoid
> (Vanremog@aol.com)
> > 35. 05:07 PM - Re: Protection diodes on starter solenoid (Elsa &
> Henry)
> > 36. 05:40 PM - Re: Alternate Engines (William Davis)
> > 37. 06:17 PM - Re: Alternate Engines (Tedd McHenry)
> > 38. 06:33 PM - Re: Airfoil Diagram & Van's Fuel Valve (Finn Lassen)
> > 39. 06:43 PM - Re: Lightspeed hall effect module failure (Dave
> Bristol)
> > 40. 06:45 PM - Instrument lightning systems (bruno)
> > 41. 06:48 PM - Re: TBO (Dave Bristol)
> > 42. 08:12 PM - Re: How do you secure wiring harnesses in the aft
> fuselage? (Meketa)
> > 43. 08:18 PM - Re: References please -- WAS:Alternative Engine
> Questions (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
> > 44. 09:18 PM - Re: RV-8 Fuselage Jig (mark phillips)
> > 45. 10:05 PM - Re: RV-8 Fuselage Jig (Phil Sisson, Litchfield
> Aerobatic Club)
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 1
> _____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 12:18:32 AM PST US
> > Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 63 Msgs - 12/12/02
> > From: j1j2h3@juno.com
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: j1j2h3@juno.com
> >
> > Hey Doc
> >
> > Don't let it scare you away. Some 3000+ guys (actually flying, plus
> > those that are past this stage) have figured out how to do it, so you
can
> > too.
> >
> > Jim Hasper - RV-7 just starting empennage
> >
> > Do not archive
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
> > >
> > > <snip>
> > > Hey Guys,
> > >
> > > I'm still trying to decide which airplane to build. I see a lot of
> > > discussion about the difficulty of preparing the sliders and tip-ups.
> > Does
> > > anyone sell a pre-made lid for these things? Why are the ones in Van's
> > kits
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 2
> _____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 03:49:58 AM PST US
> > From: <andrew.wereley@earthlink.net>
> > Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Fuselage Jig
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: <andrew.wereley@earthlink.net>
> >
> >
> > Free to good home, one RV-8 fuselage jig. I have recently moved my
> project
> > out of the jig and now I need to get the jig out of my garage. I'm
happy
> to
> > donate it to whomever is willing to haul it away. It's straight and I'm
> > pleased with the way my fuse is proceeding.
> >
> > I'm located in Vacaville, CA which is about 40 mi. northeast of San
> Francisco.
> > If we cut the jig in half, it will fit in the bed of a pickup with the
> gate
> > down and can be spliced back together later. Please reply off list to
> > awereley@hotmail.com.
> >
> >
> > Andy Wereley
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 3
> _____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 04:30:01 AM PST US
> > From: BillRVSIX@aol.com
> > Subject: RV-List: Van's instrument lighting ?
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: BillRVSIX@aol.com
> >
> > Hello IM trying to figure out the breaker size for van's lighted
> instruments.
> > I have six lighted instrument connecting to a breaker but I don't know
how
> > many amps or watts the lights are to figure out the breaker and wire
size.
> > its a 12 volt system.
> >
> > 2 ?-- My six flight instruments will all be lite by the EL light bezels
> and I
> > was wondering if any one new if the van's lighted instruments are going
to
> > match or look the same color white/blue color as the light bezels or is
it
> > such a problem to match lighted instruments I shouldn't worry about it.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 4
> _____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 05:35:10 AM PST US
> > From: "Rick Galati" <rick07x@earthlink.net>
> > Subject: RV-List: Re: Service Bulletin
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" <rick07x@earthlink.net>
> >
> >
> > RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
> >
> > To
> > check the small hoses you could take a strong string and blow it through
> > the
> > hose , then tie a small cloth on the end and pull it through.
> > If that isn't
> > fancy enough ; use a rifle cleaning rod .
> >
> >
> > RV-4 , N1191X ,
> > Flying Now
> > Charleston, Arkansas
> >
> >
> > Unless I am missing something here, the string trick is
> > impractical since the fittings installed on both ends of the VA-133 have
> an
> > opening of only .154 dia. It would take a pretty small cloth affixed to
> > one end of the string to pass through such a small opening. Then, once
> > inside the hose, it would have no way to break loose a possible curl in
> the
> > material outlined in the service bulletin. I'm not sure how a rifle
> cleaning rod
> >
> > (do they come in such a small diameter?) would help either. Bottom line
is
> > whatever you insert into this 7/16" hose must pass through a .154
> gateway.
> >
> >
> > --- Rick Galati
> >
> > --- rick07x@earthlink.net
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 5
> _____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 07:20:23 AM PST US
> > From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: How do you secure wiring harnesses in the aft
> fuselage?
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
> >
> >
> > Norman wrote:
> > >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> > >
> > > > The plastic wrap makes me a little nervous because of flammability,
> and
> > > toxic
> > > > vapors that could result from a short situation, etc.
> > > > Electrical tape placed strategically with good flammability ratings
> > > instead?
> > > > Robert
> > >
> > > I must agree. That is why my plastic cable ties are all Mil Spec.
> > <snip>
> > >
> > > I am striving to have every component of my aircraft the best
possible.
> > > Might be one of the reasons that I have been building for 7 years. One
> of
> > > the others reasons would be that I have to work over 80 hours a week
to
> pay
> > > for it all.
> > >
> > > Norman Hunger
> > > RV6A Delta BC
> >
> >
> > I certainly find no fault with building high quality into our planes. If
> > you are concerned about flammability in wire bundles.......STOP.... and
> > reexamine your wiring architecture! The reason we install breakers
> > and/or fuses is to achieve a wiring architecture where there is no
> > possibility of wires getting hot enough to melt. There is no reason to
> > have ANY wires longer than a few inches that are not protected by either
> > a breaker, fuse, or fusible link. Wires that are bundled together in the
> > fuse or wing most definitely should be protected by devices that will
> > trip or blow in milliseconds after a short occurs, long before
> > flammability becomes an issue.
> >
> > Sam Buchanan (RV-6, Bob Nuckolls disciple)
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 6
> _____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 07:31:54 AM PST US
> > From: Bobby Hester <bhester@apex.net>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternate Engines
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@apex.net>
> >
> > Jim Jewell wrote:
> >
> > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
> > >
> > >I think you do! go ahead say more Please!
> > >For instance start by telling us all where we can all find a used,
> > >reasonably low time, flight ready O-320 or O-360 Lycoming engine for
> > >$5000.00 USD. If you can supply a reliable source that can fulfill the
> > >demand we will all grant you the fact that you need not say more! Oh
and
> > >I'll take four of them please.
> > >The last time I checked Lycomings that fit that description where going
> for
> > >about $15000.00 and up. This kind of pricing driven by the current and
> > >ongoing shortage of supply is one among a number of driving forces that
> have
> > >led us into this disscusion in the first place.
> > >I see that you fly an RV4 How about selling one of us your engine for
> that
> > >five grand. :)!
> > >
> > >Jim in Kelowna
> > >
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: <Oldsfolks@aol.com>
> > >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > >Subject: RV-List: Alternate Engines
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >>--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
> > >>
> > >>I still subscribe to what Van said when the RV-4 first came out .
> > >>Someone asked Van what engine conversions could be used . He Said, "
The
> > >>
> > >>
> > >best
> > >
> > >
> > >>conversion I can think of is , take 5 thousand dollars and convert it
to
> a
> > >>used Lycoming ".
> > >>No need to say more !
> > >>do not archive
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
> > >>Charleston, Arkansas
> > >>
> >
> > Nal, nal, Lucy, Let me splain ;-)
> > Best conversion for a new Lycoming engine is: take $5,000 dollars (and
> > buy fuel) and make it a used Lycoming engine!
> >
> > --
> > Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> > Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> > RV7A Working on the wings :-)
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 7
> _____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 08:04:44 AM PST US
> > From: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Protection diodes on starter solenoid
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie and Tupper England
> <cengland@netdoor.com>
> >
> > Vanremog@aol.com wrote:
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
> > >
> > > In a message dated 12/13/2002 11:29:51 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> > > elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com writes:
> > >
> > >
> > >>The stripe on a diode indicates the cathode side of it. Current
> > >>flows from the anode side (+, positive) to the cathode side (-
> negative)
> > >
> > >
> > > Au contrare Pierre! A diode is forward biased (conducting) when the
> cathode
> >
> > > is made more negative than the anode and the current flows from
negative
> to
> > > positive.
> > >
> > > -GV (RV-6A N1GV 575hrs)
> > >
> >
> > Well, this thread won't be anywhere near as useful as the auto engine
> thread,
> > but it could be a lot of fun...
> >
> > So, let's get it rolling. First, are we discussing electron flow or hole
> flow?
> >
> > Charlie
> >
> > (Please note emoticon: ;-) )
> >
> > do not archive
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 8
> _____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 08:05:40 AM PST US
> > From: RV4PatA@aol.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Protection diodes on starter solenoid
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: RV4PatA@aol.com
> >
> > Doug,
> >
> > I always leave the elect. buss off during engine start. That much
load
> on
> > the system does weird things.
> >
> > Pat Allender
> > RV-4
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 9
> _____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 08:31:26 AM PST US
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternate Engines
> > From: lm4@juno.com
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: lm4@juno.com
> >
> > Right Jim,
> > This 5,000 conversion, that Van has mentioned, has been brought
> > forward from the 80,s. A few years ago I heard him say 7,000 and
> > mid-time.
> > And ,of course, that would be without accessories.
> > Larry Mac Donald
> > Rochester N.Y.
> > do not archive
> >
> >
> > On Fri, 13 Dec 2002 21:36:02 -0800 "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
> > writes:
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
> > >
> > > I think you do! go ahead say more Please!
> > > For instance start by telling us all where we can all find a used,
> > > reasonably low time, flight ready O-320 or O-360 Lycoming engine for
> > > $5000.00 USD. If you can supply a reliable source that can fulfill
> > > the
> > > demand we will all grant you the fact that you need not say more! Oh
> > > and
> > > I'll take four of them please.
> > > The last time I checked Lycomings that fit that description where
> > > going for
> > > about $15000.00 and up. This kind of pricing driven by the current
> > > and
> > > ongoing shortage of supply is one among a number of driving forces
> > > that have
> > > led us into this disscusion in the first place.
> > > I see that you fly an RV4 How about selling one of us your engine
> > > for that
> > > five grand. :)!
> > >
> > > Jim in Kelowna
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: <Oldsfolks@aol.com>
> > > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > > Subject: RV-List: Alternate Engines
> > >
> > >
> > > > --> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
> > > >
> > > > I still subscribe to what Van said when the RV-4 first came out .
> > > > Someone asked Van what engine conversions could be used . He Said,
> > > " The
> > > best
> > > > conversion I can think of is , take 5 thousand dollars and convert
> > > it to a
> > > > used Lycoming ".
> > > > No need to say more !
> > > > do not archive
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
> > > > Charleston, Arkansas
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > _->
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 10
> ____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 09:20:10 AM PST US
> > From: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Protection diodes on starter solenoid
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
> >
> > And of course we'll have to consider layman's knowledge that 'current'
> > flows from positive to negative by convention and hence positive holes
> > and that electrons really flow from negative to positive.
> >
> >
> > BUT, just to boggle the mind, an electron really only moves a few inches
> > an hour down the wire, so, it takes quite a while for the electron
> > entering at the negative side to flow all the way to the end of the wire
> > say from the battery to to the starter which of course is incorrect
> > because being an electron it would move from the starter to the battery
> > positive terminal and if your starter and engine are working the
> > electron will actually never reach the battery because the time span is
> > too short and if it never reaches the battery why does my starter work.
> > which brings up the fact that static electricicty really is not static
> > because when I am statically charged I can make a spark jump which is a
> > flow of electrons which would make it dynamic and of course considering
> > that electrons don't flow fast through wires, what really made the spark
> > jump as it went almost too fast for me to see. okay geting of horse now
> > ;-) Isn't electrics fun
> >
> >
> > Charlie and Tupper England wrote:
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie and Tupper England
> <cengland@netdoor.com>
> > >
> > > Vanremog@aol.com wrote:
> > >
> > >>--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
> > >>
> > >>In a message dated 12/13/2002 11:29:51 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> > >>elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com writes:
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>The stripe on a diode indicates the cathode side of it. Current
> > >>>flows from the anode side (+, positive) to the cathode side (-
> negative)
> > >>>
> > >>
> > >>Au contrare Pierre! A diode is forward biased (conducting) when the
> cathode
> >
> > >>is made more negative than the anode and the current flows from
negative
> to
> > >>positive.
> > >>
> > >>-GV (RV-6A N1GV 575hrs)
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > > Well, this thread won't be anywhere near as useful as the auto engine
> thread,
> >
> > > but it could be a lot of fun...
> > >
> > > So, let's get it rolling. First, are we discussing electron flow or
hole
> flow?
> > >
> > > Charlie
> > >
> > > (Please note emoticon: ;-) )
> > >
> > > do not archive
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > --
> > is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 11
> ____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 09:36:35 AM PST US
> > From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
> > Subject: RV-List: Alternate Engines
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
> >
> > This subject has been beat to death this past week but regardless of
each
> ones
> > personal opinion we desperately need a reliable source of power for our
> RV's that
> > could be had for say 10,000 firewall forward.
> >
> > As it stands now the cost of the new Lycomings eliminates many potential
> builders
> > and this is a shame. Van has succeeded in giving us the worlds best
> kitbuilt
> > at a very affordable price, now it is up to someone to come up with
> suitable
> > power at a affordable price. From what I have picked out of the past
> week's discussion
> > it seems that we are getting closer.
> >
> > I have no problem with the development of automotive power and encourage
> those
> > who are trying and would be more than willing to bolt one on the front
of
> my aircraft
> > if it could meet my list of qualifications.
> >
> > The installed weight be no heavier than a Lycoming of comparable power.
> > Be able to fly in formation with another same model Lyco RV both using
the
> same
> > manifold pressure.
> > Be able to run a Hartzell constant speed prop.
> > Fit into a cowling that would not take away from the good looks of an
RV.
> >
> > I think it can be done or maybe is already.
> >
> > The RV list gets carried away once and awhile and one is tempted to push
> the un-subscribe
> > button but then pause for a moment and think about all the good that
> > comes out of it. We are fortunate to have such a list especially during
> the
> > building process.
> >
> > Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 12
> ____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 09:51:42 AM PST US
> > From: Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Protection diodes on starter solenoid
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Robert McCallum
> <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
> >
> > Gert wrote:
> > > ;-) Isn't electrics fun
> >
> > Yup !!!!
> > --
> > Bob McC
> > DO NOT ARCHIVE
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 13
> ____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 10:09:32 AM PST US
> > From: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternate Engines
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
> >
> > > >
> > > The only conversion I'm interested in, is the conversion of avgas to
> > smoke. As much, and as often as possible!!
> >
> > DOC
> >
> > do not archive
> > > >Subject: RV-List: Alternate Engines
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >>--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
> > > >>
> > > >>I still subscribe to what Van said when the RV-4 first came out .
> > > >>Someone asked Van what engine conversions could be used . He Said, "
> > > >>
> > >
> > > Nal, nal, Lucy, Let me splain ;-)
> > > Best conversion for a new Lycoming engine is: take $5,000 dollars (and
> > > buy fuel) and make it a used Lycoming engine!
> > >
> > > --
> > > Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> > > Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> > > RV7A Working on the wings :-)
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 14
> ____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 10:45:55 AM PST US
> > From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Princeton capacitive fuel level probes
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
> >
> > Hi Mark:
> >
> > I am using the VM1000 in my 6A and the fuel level probes that came with
> the
> > kit. They are probes that go the full length of the tank top to bottom.
I
> > installed them along the back baffle, easily done when the rear baffle
is
> > of. They have a threaded end and screw into a fitting riveted into the
> lower
> > rear corner that does not interfere with the inspection cover. the
> > calibration screws are in the threaded end and are easily reached with
the
> > root fairing off. If for any reason they had to be removed it is just a
> > matter of taking the tank of and unscrewing the probe.
> >
> > These probes may not be compatible with your installation but may be
worth
> > looking at.
> >
> > Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B. C.
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <czechsix@juno.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: Princeton capacitive fuel level probes
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
> > >
> > > Guys,
> > >
> > > Is anyone out there using Princeton capacitive fuel level probes?
Grand
> > Rapids Technologies is selling them with their EIS engine monitor, and
> they
> > are available pre-bent to fit the RV tanks so I'm assuming there must be
> > some in service. Any comments pro or con? I already have the Stewart
> > Warner float senders but am thinking about getting the capacitive probes
> and
> > putting them in before my wings are permanently mounted. They are more
> > expensive at $95 each but if it saves me *ever* having to pull them out
> for
> > replacement it's probly worthwhile. I know it can be done but in my
case
> it
> > will be worse on the left wing since I have my fuel pump and gascolator
in
> > the wing root area...
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > --Mark Navratil
> > > Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> > > RV-8A N2D fiberglass...
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 15
> ____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 11:01:08 AM PST US
> > From: JRWillJR@aol.com
> > Subject: RV-List: Alternate Engines, suggestions, etc
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: JRWillJR@aol.com
> >
> > In a message dated 12/14/2002 11:37:39 AM Central Standard Time,
> > ebowhay@jetstream.net writes:
> >
> >
> > > The RV list gets carried away once and awhile and one is tempted to
push
> the
> >
> > > un-subscribe button but then pause for a moment and think about all
the
> > > good that comes out of it. We are fortunate to have such a list
> especially
> > > during the building process.
> >
> > Gosh, I thought we was just sitting around with some beers having a
> > discussion.
> > Perhaps the list could have moderators, long time members who would have
> the
> > power to "edit" offensive or inflammatory material. Sometimes people say
> > things that are meant as harmless and it does not come across that way.
> For a
> > well run forum visit www.tractorbynet . It is the most civil,
friendly
> > place on the net. It has moderators but more than that the people are
just
> > good people and the forum is designed to allow a wide variety of topics.
> > Visit www.usjabiru.com for a look at their 8 cylinder 180/200 horse
> > engine under going development. It is priced around 15,000 I think, not
> sure
> > about that price exactly.
> > I thought the only thread on this forum that had gotten nasty as of
recent
> > was the Insurance one, I apologize if I have caused anyone heartburn, I
> was
> > not in that one. I learned somethings from the engine thread and I
figure
> > there are folks shopping for engines so they may have been interested in
a
> > pro/con discussion.
> > Y'all have a happy holiday, I got to go fire up the Kubota, I am
building
> a
> > new shop and need to get the slab banked in. If you think airplane
engines
> > are expensive try looking at "real" tractors. Out of here for a while.
Oh,
> do
> > not archive. JR
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 16
> ____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 11:09:42 AM PST US
> > From: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Protection diodes on starter solenoid
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry"
> <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
> >
> > Au contraire to you, GV (your posting is not identified by your name)
The
> > "current" flow that you state going from negative to positive, is
> ELECTRON
> > flow and the conventional way of stating current flow is from positive
to
> > negative! If you connect a diode anode to the positive terminal of a
> battery
> > and the cathode of it to the negative terminal, you will blow it.
> (assuming
> > the battery has sufficient capacity to do just that, which an aircraft
> > battery sure has) That is why the schematic of a diode shows a triangle
> > (anode) pointing to a straight line across the triangle point (the
> cathode)
> > and indicates the direction of current flow. (Anode to cathode, or +
to -)
> >
> > That is why diodes connected across solenoid or relay coils have the
> Anodes
> > connected to ground and the Cathodes connected to the positive supply
that
> > energizes the coil. There will not be any current through the diode
> normally
> > when the coil is energized, BUT when the current is interrupted
(switched
> > off), the collapsing field in the coil will generate (induce) a reverse
> > polarity voltage which will cause the diode to conduct and quench it. If
> > there was no diode there to do this, the resulting negative spike
> traveling
> > to the switch contacts will cause arcing as the switch contacts open.
> > Depending on the inductance of the coil, that spike could reach several
> > hundred volts!
> >
> > Try this: If you have a starter or master solenoid sitting around not
> > installed, connect the coil, without a diode, to a battery with clip
leads
> > and verify that it operates OK. Now disconnect one lead and observe the
> > spark as the contact is broken. Repeat the exercise, but this time, hold
a
> > finger in contact with the cliplead and the battery terminal as you
break
> > the contact.- You will not like the jolt you feel!
> > Cheers!!----------Henry Hore
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 17
> ____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 11:28:11 AM PST US
> > Subject: RV-List: Sport Aviation Mag and a Scanner (Not RV-Related)
> > From: "Gannon, Terence" <Terence.Gannon@trican.ca>
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Gannon, Terence"
> <Terence.Gannon@trican.ca>
> >
> > Hello Folks - this is not directly RV-related so pardon the
interruption.
> Anybody
> > out there have a copy of the JULY 1995 edition of Sport Aviation, and
> wouldn't
> > mind scanning and sending an article for me? If so, please contact me
off
> > list...thanx...
> >
> > Terry in Calgary
> > RV-6 S/N 24414
> > "Right Wing"
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 18
> ____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 11:46:30 AM PST US
> > From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: TBO
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
> >
> > >--> RV-List message posted by: JRWillJR@aol.com
> > >
> > >Yeah, if anyone is really interested in this subject they would need to
> get
> > >the AC's on this subject, certification standards. There are beliefs
and
> > >there are facts and then there is the real world. The Lycomings are
> certified
> > >to TBO at full rated power. There is no take off power limit etc on our
> > >little Lycs. It is 2700 RPM continuous sea level standard conditions
for
> full
> > >TBO.
> >
> > If someone can actually find this AC and tells us which AC and which
> > page talks about how TBO is defined I would love to have the info. I
> > have looked at all the engine and maintenance related ACs I can find
> > on the FAA web site, and I can't find any discussion of TBO and what
> > it really means.
> >
> > I know that with the modern turbine engines the manufacturers get
> > really touchy if an operator wants to operate at anything approaching
> > max continuous power (or thrust for jet engines) continuously, as
> > they know that they probably won't get the engine life "guaranteed"
> > by the engine manufacturer. Depending on the aircraft's design
> > mission, the aircraft manufacturer defines a typical mission profile,
> > including climb and cruise power settings that are lower than max
> > continuous power, and the engine manufacturer provides engine life
> > guarantees based on this mission profile. If the aircraft
> > manufacturer later wants to increase the climb or cruise thrust there
> > is a lot of hard negotiation with the engine manufacturer about
> > engine life guarantees, even if the increased power levels are well
> > below maximum continuous power.
> >
> > So, I would be quite surprised if the Lycoming TBO actually assumes
> > maximum continuous power for 2,000 hrs. Lots of folks claim to know
> > that this is how the TBO is defined, but I would love to see some
> > evidence.
> > --
> > Kevin Horton RV-8 (baffles, induction air, oil cooler)
> > Ottawa, Canada
> > http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 19
> ____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 12:04:13 PM PST US
> > From: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Protection diodes on starter solenoid
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry"
> <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
> >
> > Au contraire to you, GV (your posting is not identified by your name)
The
> > "current" flow that you state going from negative to positive, is
> ELECTRON
> > flow and the conventional way of stating current flow is from positive
to
> > negative! If you connect a diode anode to the positive terminal of a
> battery
> > and the cathode of it to the negative terminal, you will blow it.
> (assuming
> > the battery has sufficient capacity to do just that, which an aircraft
> > battery sure has) That is why the schematic of a diode shows a triangle
> > (anode) pointing to a straight line across the triangle point (the
> cathode)
> > and indicates the direction of current flow. (Anode to cathode, or +
to -)
> >
> > That is why diodes connected across solenoid or relay coils have the
> Anodes
> > connected to ground and the Cathodes connected to the positive supply
that
> > energizes the coil. There will not be any current through the diode
> normally
> > when the coil is energized, BUT when the current is interrupted
(switched
> > off), the collapsing field in the coil will generate (induce) a reverse
> > polarity voltage which will cause the diode to conduct and quench it. If
> > there was no diode there to do this, the resulting negative spike
> traveling
> > to the switch contacts will cause arcing as the switch contacts open.
> > Depending on the inductance of the coil, that spike could reach several
> > hundred volts!
> >
> > Try this: If you have a starter or master solenoid sitting around not
> > installed, connect the coil, without a diode, to a battery with clip
leads
> > and verify that it operates OK. Now disconnect one lead and observe the
> > spark as the contact is broken. Repeat the exercise, but this time, hold
a
> > finger in contact with the cliplead and the battery terminal as you
break
> > the contact.- You will not like the jolt you feel!
> > Cheers!!----------Henry Hore
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 20
> ____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 12:14:42 PM PST US
> > From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Protection diodes on starter solenoid
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
> >
> > If I where to hold an imaginary diode in my thumb out closed fist with
the
> > arrow symbol pointing up in the direction my thumb would be pointing.
> Which
> > end would I attach to the positive pole on whatever devise or
application
> I
> > wish to protect or control?
> > Is this question too simplified, or am I not getting it at all?
> >
> > Jim in Kelowna
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Protection diodes on starter solenoid
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry"
> > <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
> > >
> > > Au contraire to you, GV (your posting is not identified by your name)
> The
> > > "current" flow that you state going from negative to positive, is
> > ELECTRON
> > > flow and the conventional way of stating current flow is from positive
> to
> > > negative! If you connect a diode anode to the positive terminal of a
> > battery
> > > and the cathode of it to the negative terminal, you will blow it.
> > (assuming
> > > the battery has sufficient capacity to do just that, which an aircraft
> > > battery sure has) That is why the schematic of a diode shows a
triangle
> > > (anode) pointing to a straight line across the triangle point (the
> > cathode)
> > > and indicates the direction of current flow. (Anode to cathode, or +
> to -)
> > >
> > > That is why diodes connected across solenoid or relay coils have the
> > Anodes
> > > connected to ground and the Cathodes connected to the positive supply
> that
> > > energizes the coil. There will not be any current through the diode
> > normally
> > > when the coil is energized, BUT when the current is interrupted
> (switched
> > > off), the collapsing field in the coil will generate (induce) a
reverse
> > > polarity voltage which will cause the diode to conduct and quench it.
If
> > > there was no diode there to do this, the resulting negative spike
> > traveling
> > > to the switch contacts will cause arcing as the switch contacts open.
> > > Depending on the inductance of the coil, that spike could reach
several
> > > hundred volts!
> > >
> > > Try this: If you have a starter or master solenoid sitting around not
> > > installed, connect the coil, without a diode, to a battery with clip
> leads
> > > and verify that it operates OK. Now disconnect one lead and observe
the
> > > spark as the contact is broken. Repeat the exercise, but this time,
hold
> a
> > > finger in contact with the cliplead and the battery terminal as you
> break
> > > the contact.- You will not like the jolt you feel!
> > > Cheers!!----------Henry Hore
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 21
> ____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 12:19:03 PM PST US
> > From: Miller Robert <rmiller3@earthlink.net>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: How do you secure wiring harnesses in the aft
> fuselage?
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Miller Robert <rmiller3@earthlink.net>
> >
> > I agree, absolutely.
> > Circuit protection is most important.
> > (Actually, second most important... right after designing the circuits
> properly
> > in the first place. That's why I too am a "Bob Nuckolls disciple".)
> > Nevertheless, I would not then go on to wrap bundles of wires in
"plastic
> > wrap"... which was original point.
> > Would rather see wire ties or electrical tape with acceptable
flammability
> > ratings for bundling wires, as needed.
> > Robert
> >
> >
> > Sam Buchanan wrote:
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
> > >
> > > I certainly find no fault with building high quality into our planes.
If
> > > you are concerned about flammability in wire bundles.......STOP....
and
> > > reexamine your wiring architecture! The reason we install breakers
> > > and/or fuses is to achieve a wiring architecture where there is no
> > > possibility of wires getting hot enough to melt. There is no reason to
> > > have ANY wires longer than a few inches that are not protected by
either
> > > a breaker, fuse, or fusible link. Wires that are bundled together in
the
> > > fuse or wing most definitely should be protected by devices that will
> > > trip or blow in milliseconds after a short occurs, long before
> > > flammability becomes an issue.
> > >
> > > Sam Buchanan (RV-6, Bob Nuckolls disciple)
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 22
> ____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 12:32:45 PM PST US
> > From: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternate Engines
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
> >
> > >
> > > I have no problem with the development of automotive power and
encourage
> > those who are trying and would be more than willing to bolt one on the
> front
> > of my aircraft if it could meet my list of qualifications.
> > >
> > > The installed weight be no heavier than a Lycoming of comparable
power.
> > > Be able to fly in formation with another same model Lyco RV both using
> the
> > same manifold pressure.
> > > Be able to run a Hartzell constant speed prop.
> > > Fit into a cowling that would not take away from the good looks of an
> RV.
> >
> > > Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
> >
> > I'm to the 'Three out of 4' point now. I thought I could see my way
> clear
> > to make my RD-1A/B reduction drive work with a Hartzell CS because it
> would
> > be relatively easy to add a port and get oil through the hollow prop
> shaft.
> > But I recently read that the oil pressure from governor is around 1200
> psi.
> >
> > I'm not familiar with the plumbing of a Lyc. Can anyone briefly tell me
> how
> > the high pressure oil from the governor on the accessory case gets
through
> > the crank to the prop? I can't imagine the oil seals necessary to do
> this.
> >
> > Tracy Crook
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 23
> ____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 12:37:18 PM PST US
> > From: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: sliders & tip-up
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> >
> > > Does anyone sell a pre-made lid for these things?
> >
> > No, not yet.
> >
> > > Why are the ones in Van's kits so difficult to build?
> >
> > They're not. They do take a long time to do properly. In my case I found
> the
> > canopy a place where additional optional equipment and design changes
> > tripled the labour required. I also am doing a completely finished
> upolstery
> > interior. Very time consuming to get the inside of the canopy frame.
> >
> > > Would a well made lid from one RV6 fit another RV6
> >
> > Not a chance. The sides of mine fit exactly because they were done on
the
> > plane.
> >
> > > or is there a high degree of variability from one plane to another?
> >
> > I think so but might not be completely qualified to answer this question
> as
> > I haven't been going around measuring every RV I see.
> >
> > > Finally, is one style (slider vs tip-up) safer than the other?
> >
> > Here's a question I haven't seen yet. I don't know. In either case I
> believe
> > a canopy break out tool is a required piece of safety equipment. Think
how
> > impossible it would be to open either style of canopy if the aircraft
was
> > upside down in a soft field. History has proven they like to flip over
> when
> > engine out landings are conducted in soft fields. There are various
tools
> > available from the auto supply houses. Many builders including myself
> > recommend modifying the bottom of the removable passenger joystick into
a
> > nasty canopy smashing device. I'm doing both. One of the smarter ideas
> I've
> > picked up from this list.
> >
> > > Sorry if I'm asking stupid questions. I'm learning as quickly as I
can!
> > Thanks for your input.
> >
> > No such thing as a stupid question. If anyone on this list if concerned
> > about looking dumb but has a question then I will volunteer my email
> address
> > nhunger@sprint.ca and go ahead and send it privately.
> >
> > Norman Hunger
> > RV6A Delta BC
> >
> > >
> > > Doc
> > >
> > > Do not archive
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 24
> ____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 12:55:42 PM PST US
> > From: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Airfoil Diagram & Van's Fuel Valve
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> >
> > > Best advice for that fuel valve from Van's is to throw it directly
into
> > the
> > > nearest trash can and buy something airworthy.
> > >
> > > Do not Archive
> >
> > Well that might be a little harsh. I bet it functions just fine but the
> > thing is just crying out for a better looking handle. After seeing the
> > Andair valve I just had to have one. Also bought their vastly superior
> > gascolator.
> >
> > Any one in the Vancouver area who wants to save themselves $23 USD from
> > their finishing kit is welcome to come over and have my origional never
> used
> > Vans fuel selector valve.
> >
> > For those that don't know, Van will reduce the price of any kit by
> whichever
> > part you tell him to remove at the time of placing the order. The most
> > extreme example are the Harmon Rocket guys that order about half an RV4
> kit
> > and get the rest from John.
> >
> > Norman Hunger
> > RV6A Delta BC
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 25
> ____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 01:16:46 PM PST US
> > From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: TBO
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
> >
> > Kevin Horton wrote:
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
> > >
> > >>--> RV-List message posted by: JRWillJR@aol.com
> > >>
> > >>Yeah, if anyone is really interested in this subject they would need
to
> get
> > >>the AC's on this subject, certification standards. There are beliefs
and
> > >>there are facts and then there is the real world. The Lycomings are
> certified
> > >>to TBO at full rated power. There is no take off power limit etc on
our
> > >>little Lycs. It is 2700 RPM continuous sea level standard conditions
for
> full
> > >>TBO.
> > >
> > >
> > > If someone can actually find this AC and tells us which AC and which
> > > page talks about how TBO is defined I would love to have the info. I
> > > have looked at all the engine and maintenance related ACs I can find
> > > on the FAA web site, and I can't find any discussion of TBO and what
> > > it really means.
> > >
> >
> > I have a copy of all of of Lycomings key reprints which is a compliation
> of key
> >
> > maintenance and performance articles taken from the Textron Lycoming
> "Flyer" newsletter.
> > Every article on service life says "For maximum sevice life, maintain
the
> following
> >
> > recommended limits for continuous cruise operation:
> >
> > (a) Engine power setting - 65% of rated or less"
> > (b) Cylinder head temperatures - 400deg F or below.
> > (c) Oil temperature - 165degF - 220deg F.
> >
> > Lycoming also feels it is manditory to overhaul at 2000 hours or 12
years
> of service
> > life. They also say that there is no hard fast rule for determining when
> an engine
> > should be overhauled. It all is determined on how the engine is used in
> service.
> > It appears that there is nothing written that say an engine well run for
> 2000 hours
> > at full rated power setting of 100% based on the above saying maximum
> service at
> > 65%
> > power.
> >
> > Jerry
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 26
> ____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 01:23:00 PM PST US
> > From: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> > Subject: RV-List: Seat Belt Weights
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> >
> > I would like to see postings with the weights of the various seat belt
> manufactors
> > posted on the RV List.
> > Lets keep things apples to apples and list only single seat weights of 5
> point
> > systems not including the cable that Van supplies.
> >
> > Scrotch
> >
> > Simpson
> >
> > Hooker
> >
> > Any others?
> > Please include web addresses, source of purchase, and prices. I'm sure
> this compelation
> > will be very valuble to many listers and the archives.
> >
> > Norman Hunger
> > RV6A Delta BC
> > Do not archive until supplying answers.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 27
> ____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 01:28:29 PM PST US
> > From: Todd Houg <thoug@attglobal.net>
> > Subject: RE: RV-List: Protection diodes on starter solenoid
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Todd Houg <thoug@attglobal.net>
> >
> > Henry,
> >
> > What you state below is correct, but I think you mis-read Doug's
original
> description
> > of his connections. Doug's post states the following:
> > "I have the blue diode connected from the "S" terminal to ground with
the
> red
> > band of the diode next to the "S" terminal."
> > Since the banded end of a diode corresponds to the cathode, Doug has the
> cathode
> > connected to the positive supply and the anode connected to ground just
as
> you
> > described. Thus the Diode is reverese biased and non conducting until
the
> coil
> > circuit opens and the coil inductance attempts to pull the voltage below
> ground
> > at which point the diode becomes forward biased and "clamps" the spike.
> >
> > Todd Houg
> > Just another Electrical Engineer . . .
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Elsa & Henry
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Protection diodes on starter solenoid
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry"
> <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
> >
> > Au contraire to you, GV (your posting is not identified by your name)
The
> > "current" flow that you state going from negative to positive, is
> ELECTRON
> > flow and the conventional way of stating current flow is from positive
to
> > negative! If you connect a diode anode to the positive terminal of a
> battery
> > and the cathode of it to the negative terminal, you will blow it.
> (assuming
> > the battery has sufficient capacity to do just that, which an aircraft
> > battery sure has) That is why the schematic of a diode shows a triangle
> > (anode) pointing to a straight line across the triangle point (the
> cathode)
> > and indicates the direction of current flow. (Anode to cathode, or +
to -)
> >
> > That is why diodes connected across solenoid or relay coils have the
> Anodes
> > connected to ground and the Cathodes connected to the positive supply
that
> > energizes the coil. There will not be any current through the diode
> normally
> > when the coil is energized, BUT when the current is interrupted
(switched
> > off), the collapsing field in the coil will generate (induce) a reverse
> > polarity voltage which will cause the diode to conduct and quench it. If
> > there was no diode there to do this, the resulting negative spike
> traveling
> > to the switch contacts will cause arcing as the switch contacts open.
> > Depending on the inductance of the coil, that spike could reach several
> > hundred volts!
> >
> > Try this: If you have a starter or master solenoid sitting around not
> > installed, connect the coil, without a diode, to a battery with clip
leads
> > and verify that it operates OK. Now disconnect one lead and observe the
> > spark as the contact is broken. Repeat the exercise, but this time, hold
a
> > finger in contact with the cliplead and the battery terminal as you
break
> > the contact.- You will not like the jolt you feel!
> > Cheers!!----------Henry Hore
> >
> >
> >
>
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>
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> >
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>
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> >
>
gh9VRaFtFK2TCGD46+82UgkReODqIk1A8SBAwoHnS1AeoGRzQWQqsUf16S8D4KSOAHRwOi8vd/UC
> >
>
cC5biy9po/YVAD/nv/8Gbwd/CI/oqeCp6iJtwmQ39kWlMD5hRsawgfBPgOlY/+wj/BEMoR4BMfJg
> >
>
gCxCbGL/mbGJMqQI9cr46SIRZHVYYvsjId3yJ6KCwlLCMTAjoNH/MRAyMcaxoyJK4+lY/BEMsP8i
> >
>
EZJ0FFE7kSHAq9O+5f6x/wLkDGQjIATvGj8bTxxfCS/n6cHhsPGQRVf/kCvg4bA96VhCAuCLEDvg
> >
>
XlQgVfMgUWsDd2VUYNSxIEH8gP0rEXZssHOgq6AkQWSnGRn3WZAzACsRU4Ng+sAgwSTD/2UwJHKL
> >
>
IFWgUwBLULri7KH/SuQR+xk/KR8qLys/HX/pwc9kc13gIsLuYEluFgJxMfsEOQpQUGVRUGYgwVsP
> >
>
XBgBCiNVTi9TVUJT4ENSSUJFIMECDwMWPzZQ0jA50amQLuzzFEFRryDBAc8C2jbxL14lLo4A/zH6
> >
>
VrC7sR8wS/ReADefNLfjOtPpWTctRHUhIBQzf7sC6SHELzC16VkgFURQAP8i8cUgP08DFpGwQvJB
> >
>
PwpQ/kE68Z9xxSE3TwLLOuJGsn8vGiR7R18DByWkJNI1/lP/z6DWIIPRO58C+EVf0BAm9/9G407v
> >
>
AxaJwYDR69LpWRBb/07PAv8EDFkvWj9bT1xf6LUrXY/ja31hQABgAAAAAwAQEAAAAAADABEQAAAA
> >
>
AAMAgBD/////QAAHMKCoWJC2o8IBQAAIMKCoWJC2o8IBCwAAgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAA
> >
>
A4UAAAAAAAADAAKACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAAQhQAAAAAAAAMABYAIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAA
> >
>
AABGAAAAAFKFAAC3DQAAAwAJgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAAAYUAAAAAAAAeABOACCAGAAAA
> >
>
AADAAAAAAAAARgAAAABUhQAAAQAAAAQAAAA4LjAACwAXgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAADoUA
> >
>
AAAAAAADABiACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAARhQAAAAAAAAMAGoAIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABG
> >
>
AAAAABiFAAAAAAAAHgApgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAANoUAAAEAAAABAAAAAAAAAB4AKoAI
> >
>
IAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAADeFAAABAAAAAQAAAAAAAAAeACuACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAA
> > AAA4hQAAAQAAAAEAAAAAAAAAHgA9AAEAAAAFAAAAUkU6IAAAAAADAA00/TcAAAmZ
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 28
> ____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 01:28:32 PM PST US
> > From: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Airfoil Diagram & Van's Fuel Valve
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> > >
> > > > Best advice for that fuel valve from Van's is to throw it directly
> into
> > > the
> > > > nearest trash can and buy something airworthy.
> > > >
> > > > Do not Archive
> >
> > I cussed my Van's valve for awhile too. After taking it apart and
> noticing
> > the tapered cylinder shape I understood why it got sticky. From then on
I
> > would lift up slightly on the handle when I turned it and never had a
> > problem again. I later eliminated all valves with my EFI fuel system.
> >
> > Do Not Archive
> >
> > Tracy Crook
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 29
> ____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 01:36:16 PM PST US
> > From: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Protection diodes on starter solenoid
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie and Tupper England
> <cengland@netdoor.com>
> >
> > Jim Jewell wrote:
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
> > >
> > > If I where to hold an imaginary diode in my thumb out closed fist with
> the
> > > arrow symbol pointing up in the direction my thumb would be pointing.
> Which
> > > end would I attach to the positive pole on whatever devise or
> application I
> > > wish to protect or control?
> > > Is this question too simplified, or am I not getting it at all?
> > >
> > > Jim in Kelowna
> >
> > OK Jim, here's the answer, but you are ruining all the fun &
controversy.
> >
> > :-(
> >
> > Tie the banded end to the same terminal as the wire that comes from the
> positive
> >
> > terminal on the battery.
> >
> > The unbanded end goes to terminal that gets tied to ground and/or the
> negative
> >
> > terminal of the battery.
> >
> > Remember that we are talking about the terminals for the *coil*, not the
> load
> > carrying terminals of the solenoid, relay or contactor. 'Solenoid' is
> included
> >
> > because most starter 'solenoid's actually function as a true solenoid
when
> they
> >
> > move the pinion gear into mesh with the ring gear, and also as a
> 'contactor' or
> >
> > 'relay' by completing the high-current switch function to run the
starter
> motor.
> >
> > Charlie
> >
> > now bored in Slobovia
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 30
> ____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 01:37:59 PM PST US
> > From: "Dave Stewart" <davestewart@globalserve.net>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Issue with upper baggage bulkhead
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Stewart"
> <davestewart@globalserve.net>
> >
> > Dan........I questioned Vans about this a couple of months ago and Bruce
> > confirmed that the small aft lip in the top bulkhead goes on TOP and
gets
> > partially cut away by radii. (The side view showing the top /bottom
> overlap
> > & harness wear block - and no "lip" in evidence - is correct). I did it
> this
> > way and it looks fine.
> > Dave (90252)
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: Issue with upper baggage bulkhead
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> > >
> > > I'm about to trim the curved shape into the F-652 upper baggage
bulkhead
> > > (corrugated skin that attaches to F-706). I have an issue with the
> stock
> > > Van's sent me. There's a bent-back LIP at the very edge that is
> baffling
> > > me! Here are some photos:
> > >
> > > http://www.rvproject.com/f652_issue.html
> > >
> > > It would be no big freakin' deal if the stock was tall enough to just
> cut
> > > off the extra, but there is NO extra. The stock is exactly 34" wide
and
> > 10
> > > 5/8" tall (if the bend were straightened), but the lip points AFT.
It's
> > not
> > > even like it's bent in the same direction as the corrugation. Weird.
> > >
> > > Did anybody else have this issue with their F-652? I'm really
> > > baffled...this is definitely not damage, but I don't see the purpose!
I
> > > assume Van's just shipped out a bogus skin to me, but it's after
hours.
> > I'm
> > > not about to take my hand seamer to this to try to get it
> straight...screw
> > > that! I would love other builder's perspective on this issue...
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance,
> > > )_( Dan
> > > RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
> > > http://www.rvproject.com
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 31
> ____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 02:15:52 PM PST US
> > From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Airfoil Diagram & Van's Fuel Valve
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
> >
> > >--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
> > >
> > >Howdy 'list-
> > >
> > >Somebody's website has a color graphic of Van's standard airfoil
showing
> > >pressure gradients around it in flight- some kind of wind tunnel test
> > >results, I believe. I know I had it but it's buried somewhere on my
> > >well-organized hard drive. 8-( If someone could send me a link (or
> > >the file) I would appreciate it!
> > >
> > >Also, how do ya get the &%@*! handle off of Vans standard fuel valve
> > >without destroying it? -yes, I HAVE removed the screw! 8-)
> > >
> > >From The PossumWorks in TN
> > >Mark - do not archive -
> > >
> >
> > You might be thinking of Leo Benetti-Longhini's site. It has a link
> > to a pressure distribution graphic.
> >
> > http://www.cafes.net/leo/RV-6.html
> > --
> > Kevin Horton RV-8 (baffles, induction air, oil cooler)
> > Ottawa, Canada
> > http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 32
> ____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 02:59:00 PM PST US
> > From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
> > Subject: RE: RV-List: Airfoil Diagram & Van's Fuel Valve
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
> >
> > > >Also, how do ya get the &%@*! handle off of Vans standard fuel valve
> > > >without destroying it? -yes, I HAVE removed the screw! 8-)
> >
> >
> > I suppose the best way to get the handle off would be to fly it without
> > the screw, I'm sure the handle would fall right off when you run a tank
> > dry :
> > )
> >
> > Alex Peterson
> > Maple Grove, MN
> > RV6-A N66AP 237 hours
> > www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 33
> ____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 03:36:39 PM PST US
> > From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@mcleodusa.net>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Fuselage Jig
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
> <sisson@mcleodusa.net>
> >
> > andrew.wereley@earthlink.net wrote:
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: <andrew.wereley@earthlink.net>
> > >
> > > Free to good home, one RV-8 fuselage jig. I have recently moved my
> project
> > > out of the jig and now I need to get the jig out of my garage. I'm
> happy to
> > > donate it to whomever is willing to haul it away. It's straight and
I'm
> > > pleased with the way my fuse is proceeding.
> > >
> > > I'm located in Vacaville, CA which is about 40 mi. northeast of San
> Francisco.
> > > If we cut the jig in half, it will fit in the bed of a pickup with
the
> gate
> > > down and can be spliced back together later. Please reply off list to
> > > awereley@hotmail.com.
> > >
> > > Andy Wereley
> > >
> >
> > Andy, when I moved mine. I cut mine in two like you mentioned. It works
> very good
> > like that.
> > I first cut the splice pieces to length (approxiamtely 30 inches) and
> screwed them
> > on using Deck Screws. I used a half dozen or more on each side of the
> splice.
> > Then I reached down with a "saws-all" and made the cut while it was
> screwed
> > together. it never moved a bit when the cut was made.
> > It worked out real good.It is now on its third fuselage.
> >
> > In a 1970, 3/4 ton ford pick-up, I moved an entire rv6 project including
> runout
> > engine, steel two-wing jig and sawed in two fuselage jig. One wing was
> clecoed
> > and
> > in the jig. Tail section was done, Fuselage in un opened box and no
finish
> kit....
> >
> > This move was from Seattle area to Central IL...I bought the used
pick-up
> out
> > there and got all of my money back from a guy who was moving back out
> there to
> > live..
> > Phil
> >
> > do not archive..
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 34
> ____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 03:38:19 PM PST US
> > From: Vanremog@aol.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Protection diodes on starter solenoid
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
> >
> > In a message dated 12/14/2002 12:07:21 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> > elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com writes:
> >
> > > The
> > > "current" flow that you state going from negative to positive, is
> ELECTRON
> > > flow and the conventional way of stating current flow is from positive
> to
> > > negative!
> >
> > A brilliant mind is a terrible thing to waste ;
> > ). Fortunately for me we
> > have schools that teach Electronics 101, so you may wish to go see:
> >
> > <A
>
HREF="http://www.electronicstheory.com/html/e101-6.htm">http://www.electroni
> cstheory.com/html/e101-6.htm
> >
> > Keep in mind that it is still just theory and your particular religion
my
> > believe the opposite.
> >
> > -GV (RV-6A N1GV 575hrs)
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 35
> ____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 05:07:26 PM PST US
> > From: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Protection diodes on starter solenoid
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry"
> <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
> >
> > Todd: you are right! (Sorry, Doug ) I thought that the "S" terminal was
> > grounded but apparently it is a positive supply from the starter
> > push-button, in which case the diode with the banded side connected to
> that
> > terminal is correct. I am not familiar with the Sky Tech starter as I
have
> > the old Delco unit which requires the three terminal relay, two of which
> are
> > heavy duty that connect the battery direct to the starter. Now, the
> question
> > I have (to try to solve Doug's problem) is about the "I" terminal that
> goes
> > to the small terminal on the Sky Tech starter---It would seem to me that
> > this supplies power to another solenoid inside the starter which makes
the
> > heavy current connection to the starter motor there---So, is there a
> > suppression diode inside for THAT solenoid ?? If not that one could
cause
> a
> > very heavy back-EMF spike that would play "Merry Hell" (as I stated in
the
> > first post on this subject).
> >
> > So it would appear that we have two solenoids in series, the first, the
> > Van's unit which I agree the coil is correctly dioded, followed by Sky
> Tech
> > which may not be! Anybody know what's in there?
> > If there is no diode then, another one needs to be connected from the
> "small
> > terminal" (cathode) to ground (Anode) preferably right at the terminal
to
> > suppress EMI (electro magnetic interference) that could occur if you
put
> it
> > at the "I" terminal.
> > Cheers!!-----------Henry (Pierre to GV?)
> >
> > PS See my letter to the Editor in the July 2002 issue pg 10 of
> > Sport Aviation on the subject.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 36
> ____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 05:40:27 PM PST US
> > From: "William Davis" <rvpilot@695online.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternate Engines
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "William Davis" <rvpilot@695online.com>
> >
> > Tracy,
> >
> > Oil is piped from the governor via an external line to a port at the
front
> > of the engine. This port is between the two halves of the front main
> > bearing. This part of the bearing has a reduced diam. creating a small
> > chamber there.Holes in the crank and bearing at this point conduct the
oil
> > into the hollow crank, then to the prop. There are 3 seals involved (1)
> an
> > O ring seal where the prop mates to the crankshaft flange, this one
never
> > gives any trouble unless damaged during installation. (2 & 3), the front
> and
> > rear halves of the front main bearing. Some leakage occurs there back
into
> > the case but the governor has enough capacity to overcome normal
> clearances.
> > If the clearances become too large,the prop will not function once the
oil
> > warms up.
> >
> > Bill
> >
> > Original Message -----
> > From: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternate Engines
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
> > >
> > > >
> > > > I have no problem with the development of automotive power and
> encourage
> > > those who are trying and would be more than willing to bolt one on the
> > front
> > > of my aircraft if it could meet my list of qualifications.
> > > >
> > > > The installed weight be no heavier than a Lycoming of comparable
> power.
> > > > Be able to fly in formation with another same model Lyco RV both
using
> > the
> > > same manifold pressure.
> > > > Be able to run a Hartzell constant speed prop.
> > > > Fit into a cowling that would not take away from the good looks of
an
> > RV.
> > >
> > > > Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
> > >
> > > I'm to the 'Three out of 4' point now. I thought I could see my way
> > clear
> > > to make my RD-1A/B reduction drive work with a Hartzell CS because it
> > would
> > > be relatively easy to add a port and get oil through the hollow prop
> > shaft.
> > > But I recently read that the oil pressure from governor is around 1200
> > psi.
> > >
> > > I'm not familiar with the plumbing of a Lyc. Can anyone briefly tell
me
> > how
> > > the high pressure oil from the governor on the accessory case gets
> through
> > > the crank to the prop? I can't imagine the oil seals necessary to do
> > this.
> > >
> > > Tracy Crook
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 37
> ____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 06:17:43 PM PST US
> > From: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternate Engines
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay"
<ebowhay@jetstream.net>
> > >
> > --snip--
> > > Be able to fly in formation with another same model Lyco RV both using
> the same
> > manifold pressure.
> >
> > Eustace:
> >
> > It's unlikely that any engine other than a Lycoming could satisfy this
> > requirement, since the relationship between power and manifold pressure
is
> > unique to each engine design. I think the parameter you should use here
> is
> > brake mean effective pressure (BMEP), which is what manifold pressure is
> giving
> > you a rough indication of.
> >
> > Here's how some of the alternatives compare to Lycomings, based on
numbers
> > published by Lycoming, Belted Air Power, and Subaru. (You'll want to
view
> this
> > table with a non-proportional font, such as Courier.)
> >
> > O-320 O-360 BAP1 BAP2 Egg1 Egg2
> > ----- ----- ---- ---- ----
> > displ. 320 360 262 262 150 150
> > RPM 2400 2400 3111 3111 4978 4000
> > HP 120 135 120 135 120 120
> > BMEP 124 124 117 131 127 158
> >
> > For the Lycomings I've used standard cruise conditions ("24-squared").
> >
> > For the Belted Air Power engine, which is a 4.3-litre Chevy, I've used
8/9
> of
> > rated RPM, which is equivalent to 2400 RPM for a Lycoming. BAP1 is
> putting out
> > 120 HP to match the O-320, and BAP2 is putting out 135 HP to match the
> O-360.
> > The BAP engine "brackets" the Lycomings, in that it doesn't have to work
> as
> > hard as the O-320 to keep up with it, but has to work slightly harder
than
> the
> > O-360 to keep up with it.
> >
> > For the Eggenfellner Subaru, I've used 8/9 of peak power RPM (4978) for
> Egg1
> > and Eggenfellner's recommended cruise RPM (4000) for Egg2. I think Jan
> would
> > agree that 4978 RPM is too high for cruise. However, at 4000 RPM the
BMEP
> is
> > significantly higher than the others just to maintain 120 HP, and is in
> fact
> > probably higher than the engine can produce at full throttle and a few
> thousand
> > feet of altitude. This is why I say that the Eggenfellner engine is a
> fine
> > choice for an RV-9, but perhaps slightly lacking for RV-7s and RV-8s.
> >
> > Tedd McHenry
> > Surrey, BC
> > -6 wings
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 38
> ____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 06:33:56 PM PST US
> > From: Finn Lassen <finnlassen@netzero.net>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Airfoil Diagram & Van's Fuel Valve
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finnlassen@netzero.net>
> >
> > >
> > >
> > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
> > >
> > >
> > >>--> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>Best advice for that fuel valve from Van's is to throw it directly
into
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>the nearest trash can and buy something airworthy.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >I cussed my Van's valve for awhile too. After taking it apart and
> noticing
> > >the tapered cylinder shape I understood why it got sticky. From then
on
> I
> > >would lift up slightly on the handle when I turned it and never had a
> > >problem again. I later eliminated all valves with my EFI fuel system.
> > >
> > >Tracy Crook
> > >
> > >
> > No, this should be archived: How to make Van's fuel valve work: pull and
> > turn.
> >
> > Finn
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 39
> ____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 06:43:35 PM PST US
> > From: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Lightspeed hall effect module failure
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
> >
> > My questions are, why would you report this kind of incident and why
would
> the
> > safety board investigate an experiemental ignition system?
> >
> > Dave
> > do not archive
> >
> > czechsix@juno.com wrote:
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
> > >
> > > Anyone else had, or heard of, a failure like this? I have dual
> crank-triggered
> > Lightspeeds so this failure mode won't affect me, but I thought I'd pass
> along
> > the info FYI...
> > >
> > > -
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 40
> ____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 06:45:33 PM PST US
> > From: bruno <rv4@videotron.ca>
> > Subject: RV-List: Instrument lightning systems
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: bruno <rv4@videotron.ca>
> >
> > Hello listers
> > I've been thinking about installing instruments lights in
my
> > RV-4 for a while now and tonight while looking thru the Spruce &
Specialty
> > catalogue(2001 page 385) I came across a few systems.
> > So my questions are#
> >
> > 1.-Is there anyone on the list who has installed the
fiberlite
> > package and if so does it come complete with enough bezels to light up a
> > standard instrument panel?
> >
> > 2.-How hard was it to installed?
> >
> > I also looked at Paul Besing web site and I really liked the UMA bezel
> > lights but it might become fairly expensive to do a complete instrument
> > panel,specially for us Canadians with the outrageous exchange rate and
> > taxes.
> >
> > Looking forward to yours imputs
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Bruno Dionne
> > C-GDBH RV-4
> > rv4@videotron.ca
> > Do not archive
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 41
> ____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 06:48:45 PM PST US
> > From: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: TBO
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
> >
> > Boy, now I feel better about auto engines!
> >
> > > ... an auto engine can last many hundreds of
> > > hours in aircraft use...
> >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 42
> ____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 08:12:29 PM PST US
> > From: "Meketa" <acgm@gvtc.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: How do you secure wiring harnesses in the aft
> fuselage?
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Meketa" <acgm@gvtc.com>
> >
> > Hello Yall
> >
> > The term Mil-Spec itself has nothing do with the flammability or quality
> > of a particular item, just that it meets a certain specification. If my
> wire
> > ties are giving off enough fumes to cause a problem I will likely wish
> > I had a parachute.
> >
> > George Meketa
> > RV-8, N444TX, 219.1 hours
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: How do you secure wiring harnesses in the aft
> > fuselage?
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> > >
> > > > The plastic wrap makes me a little nervous because of flammability,
> and
> > > toxic
> > > > vapors that could result from a short situation, etc.
> > > > Electrical tape placed strategically with good flammability ratings
> > > instead?
> > > > Robert
> > >
> > > I must agree. That is why my plastic cable ties are all Mil Spec.
> > > I got them at Terminal Town
> > > http://www.terminaltown.com/index.htm
> > > The page with the ties is
> > > http://www.terminaltown.com/Pages/Page8.html
> > >
> > > They are made by Thomas&Bates
> > > The trademark is CATAMOUNT
> > > I have two sizes. The small are working for almost everything.
> > > Part # L-5-30-9-C Intermediate Cable Tie
> > > Length 5.6"
> > > Width 0.130"
> > > Tensile Strength 30 lbs / 134N
> > > Temp Rating 185F / 85C
> > > Max Wire Bundle 1.25"
> > > Tool / Setting L-200 / 3-5
> > > Material Nylon Natural
> > > Military Standard MS-3367-5-9
> > >
> > > Also available are various wire bundling products for high temperature
> > > areas. Check out this page:
> > > http://www.terminaltown.com/Pages/Page206.html
> > >
> > > I am striving to have every component of my aircraft the best
possible.
> > > Might be one of the reasons that I have been building for 7 years. One
> of
> > > the others reasons would be that I have to work over 80 hours a week
to
> > pay
> > > for it all.
> > >
> > >
> > > Norman Hunger
> > > RV6A Delta BC
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Norman wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> > > > >
> > > > > > I'm building and RV-9A and am wondering how you
> > > > > > are securing the aft fuselage wiring. The wire goes
> > > > > > through snap bushings on the bulkheads, but how do
> > > > > > you secure it between the bulkheads? Do you just
> > > > > > lace it together and let it dangle?
> > > > >
> > > > > Does the RV9 use J-stringers to stiffen the fuselage side skins
like
> > my
> > > > > RV6A?
> > > > > I bundled my wires in plastic wrap then laid them in the
> J-stringers.
> > A
> > > few
> > > > > holes and some mil spec plastic tie wraps and they are very
secure.
> I
> > > used
> > > > > Van's snap bushings at the bulkheads.
> > > > >
> > > > > Norman Hunger
> > > > > RV6A Delta BC
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 43
> ____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 08:18:02 PM PST US
> > From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@mcleodusa.net>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: References please -- WAS:Alternative Engine
> Questions
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
> <sisson@mcleodusa.net>
> >
> > Jim Jewell wrote:
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
> > >
> > > That "equally ancient V/6" that you refer to has an old Grandfather;
> The
> > > General Motors (Possibly Chevrolet back then) V/8 design, Is in some
> > > respects quite a lot older than many would believe. The first GM push
> rod
> > > overhead valve V/8 was a running prototype in 1917. The pushrod
rockers
> > > required frequent manual oiling as they where external to the
crankcase
> and
> > > oiling system.
> > > The first GM production V/8 I think was offered publicly in 1955.
This
> was
> > > the fore runner of most all GM engines produced since then. The 283,
> 327,
> > > 305, 350, 400 CID. and others worked hard and have lived long and
varied
> > > lives around the world.
> > >
> > > However the term "equally ancient" is at the very least stretching
your
> > > point. The 4.3 Vortec V/6 that much of this alternative engine
> discussion
> > > seems to have centered on certainly has an old historic lineage. The
> Design
> > > changes that have transpired down through the years have breathed
> exiting
> > > new life into that old iron horse.
> > > A trip to a library or a web search will provide the seeker with a
very
> long
> > > list of design changes. From the first offering of the V/6 (I'm
> uncertain as
> > > to the precise year) in the seventies or eighties to the present. The
> list
> > > is long. Many of the changes driven by anti pollution laws, some
arising
> > > from the auto racing industry, a good many due to warranty issues.
> > >
> > > Some if not most where subtle changes. Others such as intake manifold
> runner
> > > design, exhaust system, combustion chamber modifications, hall effect
> > > ignition and individual port fuel injection have produced a powerful
> engine
> > > with a good record of reliability and endurance. The marine version
> seems to
> > > be a popular hard worker that stands up well to conditions simular to
> those
> > > in aircraft.
> > >
> > > Due to the Aircraft industry certification process the Lycoming design
> > > started out of the gate much more developed than it's automotive
> > > counterparts of that era (mid thirties). As the years have passed it
to
> has
> > > gone through changes. The changes have in the main been borne out of
> better
> > > materials, machining and casting proceedures, and refinments driven
by
> in
> > > the field failure mode discoverys, the dreaded ADs {|:-(!
> > >
> > > The fact that the thirties technology stood the test of time so well
> makes
> > > this topic very interesting.
> > > The fact that the automotive technology has come as far as it has is
> also
> > > good interesting topic material.
> > > The arguable parallels of the two that this disscusion has touched on
> are
> > > interesting, They come at the time when gasoline and diesel burning
> internal
> > > combustion piston engines might be seeing the end of their development
> > > stage. Some say this technology is nearing the end of its dominance as
> the
> > > chosen source of power what we refer to as the modern civilised world.
> > >
> > > Yes we are having a discussion here, All in All this discussion has
been
> > > edifying, sometimes humorous, wide ranging and long, This after all is
> what
> > > the list is about.
> > >
> > > This thread will run it's course and come up again. In the meantime
some
> > > more Experimental builders will create and put hours on their
> alternatives
> > > whatever they might choose. This will again result in more information
> to
> > > support yet another go around with this worthwhile thread.
> > >
> > > Please feel free to correct and or update this email as needed
> > > I need to learn.
> > >
> > > Jim In Kelowna .
> > >
> >
> > What web-site do you find all this history?
> > I am one lycoming driver that is finding this thread very interesting
and
> I hope
> > it never really "ends".
> > Phil
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 44
> ____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 09:18:27 PM PST US
> > From: "mark phillips" <mphill@gcctv.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Fuselage Jig
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "mark phillips" <mphill@gcctv.com>
> >
> > Cheez Phil, is that jig from Seattle, Washington
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@mcleodusa.net>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Fuselage Jig
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic
Club"
> > <sisson@mcleodusa.net>
> > >
> > > andrew.wereley@earthlink.net wrote:
> > >
> > > > --> RV-List message posted by: <andrew.wereley@earthlink.net>
> > > >
> > > > Free to good home, one RV-8 fuselage jig. I have recently moved my
> > project
> > > > out of the jig and now I need to get the jig out of my garage. I'm
> > happy to
> > > > donate it to whomever is willing to haul it away. It's straight and
> I'm
> > > > pleased with the way my fuse is proceeding.
> > > >
> > > > I'm located in Vacaville, CA which is about 40 mi. northeast of San
> > Francisco.
> > > > If we cut the jig in half, it will fit in the bed of a pickup with
> the
> > gate
> > > > down and can be spliced back together later. Please reply off list
to
> > > > awereley@hotmail.com.
> > > >
> > > > Andy Wereley
> > > >
> > >
> > > Andy, when I moved mine. I cut mine in two like you mentioned. It
works
> > very good
> > > like that.
> > > I first cut the splice pieces to length (approxiamtely 30 inches) and
> > screwed them
> > > on using Deck Screws. I used a half dozen or more on each side of the
> > splice.
> > > Then I reached down with a "saws-all" and made the cut while it was
> > screwed
> > > together. it never moved a bit when the cut was made.
> > > It worked out real good.It is now on its third fuselage.
> > >
> > > In a 1970, 3/4 ton ford pick-up, I moved an entire rv6 project
including
> > runout
> > > engine, steel two-wing jig and sawed in two fuselage jig. One wing was
> > clecoed and
> > > in the jig. Tail section was done, Fuselage in un opened box and no
> finish
> > kit....
> > >
> > > This move was from Seattle area to Central IL...I bought the used
> pick-up
> > out
> > > there and got all of my money back from a guy who was moving back out
> > there to
> > > live..
> > > Phil
> > >
> > > do not archive..
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________ Message 45
> ____________________________________
> >
> >
> > Time: 10:05:38 PM PST US
> > From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@mcleodusa.net>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Fuselage Jig
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
> <sisson@mcleodusa.net>
> >
> > mark phillips wrote:
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "mark phillips" <mphill@gcctv.com>
> > >
> > > Cheez Phil, is that jig from Seattle, Washington
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@mcleodusa.net>
> > > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > > Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Fuselage Jig
> > >
> > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic
> Club"
> > > <sisson@mcleodusa.net>
> > > >
> > > > andrew.wereley@earthlink.net wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: <andrew.wereley@earthlink.net>
> > > > >
> > > > > Free to good home, one RV-8 fuselage jig. I have recently moved
my
> > > project
> > > > > out of the jig and now I need to get the jig out of my garage.
I'm
> > > happy to
> > > > > donate it to whomever is willing to haul it away. It's straight
and
> I'm
> > > > > pleased with the way my fuse is proceeding.
> > > > >
> > > > > I'm located in Vacaville, CA which is about 40 mi. northeast of
San
> > > Francisco.
> > > > > If we cut the jig in half, it will fit in the bed of a pickup
with
> the
> > > gate
> > > > > down and can be spliced back together later. Please reply off
list
> to
> > > > > awereley@hotmail.com.
> > > > >
> > > > > Andy Wereley
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > Andy, when I moved mine. I cut mine in two like you mentioned. It
> works
> > > very good
> > > > like that.
> > > > I first cut the splice pieces to length (approxiamtely 30 inches)
and
> > > screwed them
> > > > on using Deck Screws. I used a half dozen or more on each side of
the
> > > splice.
> > > > Then I reached down with a "saws-all" and made the cut while it was
> > > screwed
> > > > together. it never moved a bit when the cut was made.
> > > > It worked out real good.It is now on its third fuselage.
> > > >
> > > > In a 1970, 3/4 ton ford pick-up, I moved an entire rv6 project
> including
> > > runout
> > > > engine, steel two-wing jig and sawed in two fuselage jig. One wing
was
> > > clecoed and
> > > > in the jig. Tail section was done, Fuselage in un opened box and no
> finish
> > > kit....
> > > >
> > > > This move was from Seattle area to Central IL...I bought the used
> pick-up
> > > out
> > > > there and got all of my money back from a guy who was moving back
out
> > > there to
> > > > live..
> > > > Phil
> > > >
> > > > do not archive..
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> > yes all the way, one plane is already flying, then mine, then yours...
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Message 51
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| Subject: | RV Weight Reduction Perspective |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl@turbonet.com>
The biggest RV weight reduction I can think of is for me to go from the
205 I weigh now to the 186 I weighed when I started this project.
Vince Himsl
RV8 - slow built- fuselage
Moscow, ID USA
Do not archive
Message 52
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron spades |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
Isn't this fun!!!!
Here goes!
Randy,
I have NOT flown an RV-3. I own and fly a -4, I have also flown -6, -6A,
and -8. I have flown the Extra-300, and Decathalon with spades. I will
grant you the Extra flies EXTREMELY well. My guess is it would fly very well
at reasonable speeds without the spades.
You may be right, spades might work well on the RV, but I stand by my
comment that the RV is not a great aerobatic airplane. It surprises me that
your -3 is light in pitch and heavy in roll, I have always heard that the -3
was the best flying airplane of the group. All the RV's I have flown have
positive pitch force gradient and, if the CG is correct, the elevator forces
balance well with the aileron forces at moderate speeds.
You are correct there is no stick force warning of increased G available at
higher speeds. The warning is that the pilot gets really heavy in the seat.
6 Gs is a pretty effective warning to most pilots. Aileron stick force is
the only warning to the pilot of the increased stresses caused by large
aileron deflection at high IAS.
The North American T-6 has a 140 kt limitation for full deflection of the
ailerons. I do not know if Van has ever set a limit for the RVs. Your
"Flight Test 410" instructor told you about "Asymetrical G". Ailerons
twisting on the wing lower its G tolerance by at least 30%. It is very
possible that you could break an RV at less than 6 Gs at a moderate airspeed
with a large aileron deflection.
Randy, I agree with most of what you said, including the "humble" part ;-)
but putting spades on an RV is still a bad idea.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
Message 53
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| Subject: | Wheel pant access holes for air |
--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Guys,
I mounted my nosewheel fairing on my -8A per plans (riveted the brackets
on) so I drilled a 1" hole in the side for access to fill it with air
without having to take the whole wheel off. On the main wheels I've been
debating....the front half of the wheel pant can be removed for access
but that still involves something like 8 screws, which could be a pain if
you had to do it very often. What experience have you flying RV jocks
had with this? Do you wish you'd put in an access hole? Did you put one
in and wish you hadn't? Has anyone tried the little 1" dia. hinged hole
cover door thingy that Aircraft Spruce sells that opens inward (and if
so, how does it work....once you push it inward to open it, how do you
pull it closed again)??
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D trying to get fiberglass finished up on the wheel pants....
Message 54
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|
| Subject: | Re: Seat Belt Weights |
--> RV-List message posted by: N67BT@aol.com
I received my Hooker harnesses for my 7A. They are the 1.75" wide "Sport
Set" with the rotary buckle, lap and shoulder pads, and crotch strap.
The combined weight for both the pilot and passenger sets is 7.8 pounds.
These look like very nice harnesses. There were lots of color choices
including dual colors for the pads. I rigged them up temporarily and they
feel good. I'm going to like the rotary buckle.
The cost was about $500.00, for the two sets, after a 10% discount because I
ordered them at the Copperstate booth. The military buckle sets were much
cheaper but I can't remember by how much.
The only problem so far is that the crotch strap attach kit that Vans sells
for the 7A needed modification.
See <www.hookerharness.com>
Bob Trumpfheller
RV7A QB N67BT (reserved)
Western Colorado
Message 55
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|
| Subject: | Re: Wheel pant access holes for air |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>Guys,
>
>I mounted my nosewheel fairing on my -8A per plans (riveted the brackets
>on) so I drilled a 1" hole in the side for access to fill it with air
>without having to take the whole wheel off. On the main wheels I've been
>debating....the front half of the wheel pant can be removed for access
>but that still involves something like 8 screws, which could be a pain if
>you had to do it very often. What experience have you flying RV jocks
>had with this? Do you wish you'd put in an access hole? Did you put one
>in and wish you hadn't? Has anyone tried the little 1" dia. hinged hole
>cover door thingy that Aircraft Spruce sells that opens inward (and if
>so, how does it work....once you push it inward to open it, how do you
>pull it closed again)??
>
>--Mark Navratil
Mark,
I put a one inch hole in the wheel pants in the front half of each fairing
down low. The tire valve is positioned at about the seven o'clock position
to line up with it. I put a dab of red paint on the tire sidewall to show
me where the stem is so I can roll the plane as needed, then pop a wheel
chock in place to hold it once the paint dab lines up with the hole.
Otherwise, those fairing screws will get buggered up after a few removals
and the chance to ding the paint is always there. Get out the unibit, drill
the holes and snap a chrome wilkey (sp?) plug in them. You'll be glad you
did.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Message 56
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| Subject: | Re:Aileron Spades |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
My Rv-4 has 135 MPH manuevering speed . That is MAXIMUM speed at which full
control deflection can be done without strucrural damage.
Van is smart enough to make a great airplane and I believe he is smarter than
a LOT of us ! As Stein said - if you want to fly like an Extra 300 , get an
Extra 300 !!
A fellow bought an RV-3 several years back and was buzzing his girlfriends
house . He reportedly was doing about 200 and rolled it and twisted the wing
off the fuselage . He and the fuselage went into the ground like an arrow .
Those ailerons have terrific leverage at those high speeds . That's what
manuevering speed is all about.
Ig you aren't an aeronautical engineer -- leave the design/redesign to
someone who is qualified.
Bob Olds
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
Message 57
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| Subject: | Re: Protection diodes on starter solenoid |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil@pressenter.com>
> Todd: you are right! (Sorry, Doug ) I thought that the "S" terminal was
> grounded but apparently it is a positive supply from the starter
> push-button, in which case the diode with the banded side connected to
that
> terminal is correct. I am not familiar with the Sky Tech starter as I have
> the old Delco unit which requires the three terminal relay, two of which
are
> heavy duty that connect the battery direct to the starter. Now, the
question
> I have (to try to solve Doug's problem) is about the "I" terminal that
goes
> to the small terminal on the Sky Tech starter---It would seem to me that
> this supplies power to another solenoid inside the starter which makes the
> heavy current connection to the starter motor there---So, is there a
> suppression diode inside for THAT solenoid ?? If not that one could cause
a
> very heavy back-EMF spike that would play "Merry Hell" (as I stated in the
> first post on this subject).
>
> So it would appear that we have two solenoids in series, the first, the
> Van's unit which I agree the coil is correctly dioded, followed by Sky
Tech
> which may not be! Anybody know what's in there?
> If there is no diode then, another one needs to be connected from the
"small
> terminal" (cathode) to ground (Anode) preferably right at the terminal to
> suppress EMI (electro magnetic interference) that could occur if you put
it
> at the "I" terminal.
> Cheers!!-----------Henry (Pierre to GV?)
>
Gee, I have been gone for a couple days and didn't realize I had opened such
a can of worms. Now you know why me and electrons never got along.
Anyway, I may agreed with Henry. There is another solenoid on my SkyTech
starter which I guess is unprotected. Specifically, how should I do this?
Does the diode go right at the terminal on the starter itself?? What side
should I use??
Thanks
Doug Weiler
Message 58
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| Subject: | Instrument Lightniing |
--> RV-List message posted by: bruno <rv4@videotron.ca>
Thanks a lot for the info guys,I'll keep that in mind when I decide to do
the job.
And yes you're right Paul,the UMAs lights sure look good.
Cheers
Bruno
Do not Archive
------------------------------------------------
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
Agreed. The UMA lights are more expensive, but worth every penny. It is
really nice to have well lit instruments at night. They are really cool
looking, too! On my next airplane, I will use them again, for sure.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel@blueskyaviation.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Instrument lightning systems
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons"
<noel@blueskyaviation.net>
>
>
> Bruno Dionne
>
> I have lighted 4 panels now installed only the UMA lights. Seems the
fiber
> lights don't have a constant light all the way around the instrument.
>
> Noel and Yoshie Simmons
> Blue Sky Aviation, Inc.
> "We do builder assistance!"
> Toll Free: 866-859-0390
> info@blueskyaviation.net
> www.blueskyaviation.net
>
> Do not archive
>
>
Message 59
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| Subject: | Voltage regulator for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Don Mack" <don@dmack.net>
I am using an alternator with and internal voltage regulator and do not need
the one that I got from Vans.
Adjustable Voltage Regulator - <5-130A (transpo). Original cost was $50.
Selling for 25$ plus shipping.
Don Mack
don@dmack.net
www.dmack.net
do not archive
Message 60
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| Subject: | Re: Wheel pant access holes for air |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
> I mounted my nosewheel fairing on my -8A per plans (riveted the brackets
> on) so I drilled a 1" hole in the side for access to fill it with air
> without having to take the whole wheel off. On the main wheels I've been
> debating....the front half of the wheel pant can be removed for access
> but that still involves something like 8 screws, which could be a pain if
> you had to do it very often. What experience have you flying RV jocks
> had with this? Do you wish you'd put in an access hole? Did you put one
> in and wish you hadn't? Has anyone tried the little 1" dia. hinged hole
> cover door thingy that Aircraft Spruce sells that opens inward (and if
> so, how does it work....once you push it inward to open it, how do you
> pull it closed again)??
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A N2D trying to get fiberglass finished up on the wheel pants....
Mark, I don't have a nosewheel ("don't need no nosewheel" comment avoided
here :-) ), but did install those 1" hinged door covers from Spruce on my
main wheelpants and am very glad I did. If you haven't painted yet
definitely install them.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 285 hrs
www.rv-8.com
Message 61
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| Subject: | Re: Throttle Quadrants |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karied4@attbi.com>
I plan on installing these in my RV-7A,
http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/djm/djmmfg.htm
Looks like a quality piece of work that will fit nicely in a 7.
Karie Daniel
Maple Valley, WA.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Prior" <rv7@b4.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Throttle Quadrants
> --> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
>
> I've heard that the plans for the left-side throttle in a Falco are
> quite good, but I haven't seen the layout myself. So far I haven't seen
> a left-side throttle arrangement that I liked, there always seems to be
> a little slop in the system, or the system is too "tight", or whatever.
> So for me it's a single throttle in the middle, although in a
> different configuration.
>
> My plan for my RV-7 is to fly it from the right seat. In addition to
> that, i'm planning on a center-mounted throttle quadrant, between the
> seats. I have a surplus throttle quadrant from an F-104 or -105 that I
> plan to use for this. It has a built in "speed brake" switch
> (extend-retract) which I plan to wire to the flaps, a PTT, and an IGN
> (ignition?) switch.
>
> I haven't worked out the geometry of exactly where it will go yet, but I
> expect to mount the pivot point for it either just ahead of or just
> behind the forward spar, and have an arm on it long enough to get the
> handle up above my legs.
>
> Someday i'll start making marks on drawings and get something mocked up,
> when I get that far i'll put something on my website.
>
> -RB4
> RV7 Empennage
>
> Phil Jones wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Jones" <phil.jones@medpacs.com>
> >
> > Does anyone have any thoughts on putting Throttle Quadrants in a rv7a rather
then Vernier & Push-Pull in the panel? All my flying life I have never like
that I have to use my left hand to fly with and my "good" hand to just control
the engine. Is there any reason(s) (other then the co-pilot would have problem
getting at them) that I might be missing.
> >
> > Phil Jones
> > Hartland WI
>
>
Message 62
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RV-list <rv-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | fittings for fuel or whatever. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris <chrisw3@cox.net>
Has anyone seen or used this method of tube connection before. I was
wondering if they work as well as flaring the tube.
http://www.pressureconnections.com/products/steel/pages/34.pdf
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206 (home)
chrisw@programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
Message 63
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| Subject: | Re: Wheel pant access holes for air |
--> RV-List message posted by: RGray67968@aol.com
In a message dated 12/16/02 8:48:17 PM Pacific Standard Time, randy@rv-8.com
writes:
> Mark, I don't have a nosewheel ("don't need no nosewheel" comment avoided
> here :-) ), but did install those 1" hinged door covers from Spruce on my
> main wheelpants and am very glad I did. If you haven't painted yet
> definitely install them.
>
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, 285 hrs
> www.rv-8.com
Just goes to show you why they make chocolate and vanilla ice cream.........I
didn't want holes in the sides of my wheel pants and I'm glad I didn't put
'em in :
). Vans tubes did leak (ever so slightly) and I did have to put air
in one side a couple times. No big deal. But, I recently put on my 2nd set of
tires (Vans didn't last long) and bought the 'no leak tubes' from Desser
along with my tires. No leaks in these bad boys.........shhhhh, don't tell
anyone.
Rick Gray RV6 (Ohio) at the Buffalo Farm
115 hours - upside down 12 times today in a 20 minute ride with my 13 year
old (and still under 1375#) - he's getting pretty good at those rolls - I
gotta' take up Nintendo
do not archive as this is only MO - BTW.........I don't have a 'nosewheel'
either :
)
Message 64
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| Subject: | Happy RV Holidays! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Here is a link I hope you enjoy (~12 meg download):
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/greetings.mpg
You can either watch it stream or download it for viewing; should be
playable with Windows Media Player, Real Player, or Quicktime.
Happy Holidays,
Sam Buchanan
Message 65
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| Subject: | Re: A moderated RV-List |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eric Borduas" <eborduas@lycos.com>
>things that are meant as harmless and it does not come across that way. For
a
>well run forum visit www.tractorbynet . It is the most civil, friendly
>place on the net. It has moderators but more than that the people are just
I've experienced moderated list and I didn't much like them, since I noticed
that the direction of the list is in many cases influenced by the views of
the moderators.
Message 66
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| Subject: | Alternate engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Irvine <wgirvine@yahoo.com>
Since so many people are unhappy with Lycoming
engines, how would you guys feel about the
following...?
A horizontally-opposed, direct-drive, water-cooled, 6
cylinder engine. 375 CID, 200 HP (maybe a bit more),
fuel-injected, with governor pad and hollow crankshaft
for use with a Hartzell CS prop, 2 standard aircraft
magneto drive pads, 2 vacuum pump pads, 2 spark plugs
per cylinder, belt-driven 60amp alternator. This
engine uses a Continental-type "bed" mount, so would
require a new engine mount, but would fit inside the
existing RV engine cowl.
And of course, it would require a radiator mounted
somewhere. I think on an RV, this would best be done
with either a P-51 style belly scoop, or two
under-wing scoops like a Spitfire.
Any comments?
Bill
Message 67
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" <Rob@RobsGlass.com>
"While you guys spent your time today complaining about Insurance
companies....
I went for a ride in an F16!!!! Wow, What a machine!!!!!!!"
You lucky bugger. How do I get me one of these?
This sort of posting is SO muchbetter than two guys yelling at each other about
insurance with neither wanting to hear what the other says;-]
Do NOT archive
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
RV9A N919RV Fuselage.
Message 68
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| Subject: | Re: gascolator mounting. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 12/16/2002 5:02:02 PM Pacific Standard Time,
sbuc@hiwaay.net writes:
> I don't think there is any way possible to get a firewall-mounted
> gascolator drain (and keep the gascolator within the cowl...) to be the
> lowest point in the fuel system of a taildragger RV with the little
> wheel on the ground!
This is indeed the myth that refuses to die, Sam. I have repeatedly tried to
kill it on this list, but to no avail.
Now, let's all say this together and tell your friends "A gascolator is a
simple gravity water separator that can still do it's job, despite not being
the absolute lowest point in the fuel system".
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 575hrs)
Message 69
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| Subject: | Re: Protection diodes on starter solenoid |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hey!!
I can handle the to's and fros of the various mechanical threads that come
and go on the list. I generaly find the P***ing contests at the very least
entertaining. I even find some of the politics bearable if it dosen't go on
too long.
I'm not very familiar with protons, electrons, neutrons, transistors,
resisters, flows of current and all the rest of this electronic black magic
mumbo jumbo.
I still want a straight and SIMPLE ! damn it! answer to the still burning
question:
If I where to hold an imaginary diode in my closed fist with my thumb out
and with the
arrow symbol pointing up in the direction my thumb is pointing. Which
end would I attach to the indicated positive pole on whatever devise or
application I
wish to protect or control?
I'm not looking to got school on this. Thumb up fist closed which end? the
thumb end or the little bitty finger end!?
One you teknically edjumuckated speshialists Has got to know street on this.
Thumb, Little finger, ONE or the other. Cummon, help us out here!!! Dudes!
Anodes, negative, atomic blablchinshmarten . .mumble ...snort ..
graach-phetoowey Bah Humbug !
Oh! Yeh!!, by the way, the best of the season to one and all!
Jim in Kelowna
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Protection diodes on starter solenoid
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry"
<elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
>
> Au contraire to you, GV (your posting is not identified by your name) The
> "current" flow that you state going from negative to positive, is
ELECTRON
> flow and the conventional way of stating current flow is from positive to
> negative! If you connect a diode anode to the positive terminal of a
battery
> and the cathode of it to the negative terminal, you will blow it.
(assuming
> the battery has sufficient capacity to do just that, which an aircraft
> battery sure has) That is why the schematic of a diode shows a triangle
> (anode) pointing to a straight line across the triangle point (the
cathode)
> and indicates the direction of current flow. (Anode to cathode, or + to -)
>
> That is why diodes connected across solenoid or relay coils have the
Anodes
> connected to ground and the Cathodes connected to the positive supply that
> energizes the coil. There will not be any current through the diode
normally
> when the coil is energized, BUT when the current is interrupted (switched
> off), the collapsing field in the coil will generate (induce) a reverse
> polarity voltage which will cause the diode to conduct and quench it. If
> there was no diode there to do this, the resulting negative spike
traveling
> to the switch contacts will cause arcing as the switch contacts open.
> Depending on the inductance of the coil, that spike could reach several
> hundred volts!
>
> Try this: If you have a starter or master solenoid sitting around not
> installed, connect the coil, without a diode, to a battery with clip leads
> and verify that it operates OK. Now disconnect one lead and observe the
> spark as the contact is broken. Repeat the exercise, but this time, hold a
> finger in contact with the cliplead and the battery terminal as you break
> the contact.- You will not like the jolt you feel!
> Cheers!!----------Henry Hore
>
>
Message 70
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| Subject: | Re: Alternate engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
All this and only 6 grand I betcha!{;-)!
I like the cooling placement. C of G, high low air pressure flow I'd go
there.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Irvine" <wgirvine@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Alternate engines
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Irvine <wgirvine@yahoo.com>
>
> Since so many people are unhappy with Lycoming
> engines, how would you guys feel about the
> following...?
>
> A horizontally-opposed, direct-drive, water-cooled, 6
> cylinder engine. 375 CID, 200 HP (maybe a bit more),
> fuel-injected, with governor pad and hollow crankshaft
> for use with a Hartzell CS prop, 2 standard aircraft
> magneto drive pads, 2 vacuum pump pads, 2 spark plugs
> per cylinder, belt-driven 60amp alternator. This
> engine uses a Continental-type "bed" mount, so would
> require a new engine mount, but would fit inside the
> existing RV engine cowl.
>
> And of course, it would require a radiator mounted
> somewhere. I think on an RV, this would best be done
> with either a P-51 style belly scoop, or two
> under-wing scoops like a Spitfire.
>
> Any comments?
> Bill
>
>
Message 71
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| Subject: | Re: Alternate engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
Bill:
> how would you guys feel about the
> following...?
I give up, what is it?
How much does it weigh? How much does it cost? How available are parts?
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
-6 wings
Message 72
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
I'm passing this on from a friend
Gotta have one of these eh!
http://mbz.portage.net/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?boardshare;actiondisplay;num1039208683
Now if they made an RV version!
Jim in Kelowna
do not archive
Message 73
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| Subject: | Re: Alternate engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hey Tedd,
I'm guessing it's Porsche.
Jim on kelowna
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tedd McHenry" <tedd@vansairforce.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternate engines
> --> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
>
> Bill:
>
> > how would you guys feel about the
> > following...?
>
> I give up, what is it?
>
> How much does it weigh? How much does it cost? How available are parts?
>
> Tedd McHenry
> Surrey, BC
> -6 wings
>
>
>
>
>
>
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