Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:20 AM - LRI system on a RV9A (Williams Hildred)
2. 05:28 AM - AvWebs picture of the Week (mstewart@qa.butler.com)
3. 06:54 AM - Re: tire sizes (Evan and Megan Johnson)
4. 06:54 AM - checkerboard painting (Frazier, Vincent A)
5. 07:11 AM - RV's are for sissies :-) (Frazier, Vincent A)
6. 08:00 AM - Re: Skymap IIIC (Chris Good)
7. 08:18 AM - Dimpling Stainless (Elsa & Henry)
8. 08:57 AM - Re: RV's are for sissies :-) (John Starn)
9. 09:17 AM - MakingAnAlternatorPulley (DAVID REEL)
10. 09:46 AM - Re: Dimpling Stainless (Jim Jewell)
11. 09:46 AM - Re: rv-list: skymap III (Crosley, Rich)
12. 10:00 AM - WTB Electric Turn and Bank Coordinator. (James Bond)
13. 10:16 AM - Re: Dimpling Stainless (Jim Jewell)
14. 10:44 AM - Re: MakingAnAlternatorPulley (Elsa & Henry)
15. 11:41 AM - Re: RV-6A transporting advise needed (engines)
16. 11:50 AM - Re: Dimpling Stainless (Rob Prior)
17. 12:36 PM - Re: skymap III (Stein Bruch)
18. 01:38 PM - pics of RV8A airplane paint job (Dwpetrus@aol.com)
19. 01:42 PM - Web Site builder documentation of RV projects - Chris Good's (David Carter)
20. 02:21 PM - Alternative to rudder pedals (Chris W)
21. 02:34 PM - Re: Alternative to rudder pedals (Kyle Boatright)
22. 02:45 PM - Re: Alternative to rudder pedals (Dan Checkoway)
23. 02:50 PM - Re: skymap III (Scott Reichel)
24. 02:58 PM - Re: Alternative to rudder pedals (Terry Watson)
25. 02:58 PM - Re: Alternative to rudder pedals (Chris W)
26. 03:20 PM - Re: RV-6A transporting advise needed (Mike Stephenson)
27. 04:18 PM - Re: Alternative to rudder pedals (Michael McGee)
28. 06:49 PM - SL30 & GX60 for Sale (Gary Coonan)
29. 06:56 PM - Re: Rudder mounting (emrath)
30. 07:06 PM - GX60 & SL30 for sale (Gary Coonan)
31. 07:15 PM - radio tran prob (WPAerial@aol.com)
32. 08:08 PM - Re: MakingAnAlternatorPulley (James E. Clark)
33. 08:37 PM - Lightspeed Electronic Ignition O-320-H2AD, mounting bracket plans (Robert Blum)
34. 08:48 PM - Re: MakingAnAlternatorPulley (Denis Walsh)
35. 09:05 PM - Langley BC Fly-In June 7th (BBreckenridge@att.net)
36. 09:21 PM - Re: MakingAnAlternatorPulley (Jim Jewell)
37. 09:21 PM - Re: radio tran prob (kempthornes)
38. 09:33 PM - Re: Langley BC Fly-In June 7th (Jim Jewell)
39. 09:37 PM - Re: Alternative to rudder pedals (Vanremog@aol.com)
40. 09:46 PM - Re: Alternative to rudder pedals (Jerry Springer)
41. 10:01 PM - Re: Alternative to rudder pedals (Doug Shenk)
42. 11:42 PM - Rebuilding engines (Gordon Robertson)
Message 1
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Subject: | LRI system on a RV9A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Williams Hildred" <WilliamsJrHildred@JohnDeere.com>
I am helping a friend install the LRI on a RV9A.
When the probe is inserted into the angle and plate supplied with the kit,
there is an 'open area' in front of the probe.
This 'open area' will also be cut into the center wing inspection cover, if
the LRI template is used to cut the center wing inspection cover.
Should the 'cut out' slot ONLY allow the probe to be inserted thru the probe
plate and the inspection cover.
OR
Should the 'cutout' in the inspection cover be cut the same size as the
cutout in the probe plate??
Should the extra 'cutout' hole be filled or closed after the correct angle
is determined??
Will the 'open area' create a problem in the flying or flight characteristic
of the wing??
Thank you in advance for your help.
Hildred Williams
WilliamsJrHildred@JohnDeere.com
Message 2
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Subject: | AvWebs picture of the Week |
tests=AWL,HTML_70_80,HTML_MESSAGE,NO_REAL_NAME,USER_IN_WHITELIST
version=2.53
--> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
Check out the AvWEB photo of the week. I think I know those guys!
Team RV, Echelon Rt, spaced for photo.
Lead Paul Stratman
#2 Mike Stewart
#3 Danny Kight
#4 Greg Hunsicker
http://www.avweb.com/potw/ <http://www.avweb.com/potw/>
Mike Stewart
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<tt><span style='font-size:
10.0pt'>Check out the AvWEB photo of the week. I think I know those guys!</tt>
<tt><span style='font-size:
10.0pt'>Team RV, Echelon Rt, spaced for photo.</tt>
<tt><span style='font-size:
10.0pt'>Lead Paul Stratman</tt>
<tt><span style='font-size:
10.0pt'>#2 Mike Stewart</tt>
<tt><span style='font-size:
10.0pt'>#3 Danny Kight</tt>
<tt><span style='font-size:
10.0pt'>#4 Greg Hunsicker</tt><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Courier New"'>
<tt><a href="http://www.avweb.com/potw/">http://www.avweb.com/potw/</tt>
<span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>
<span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>Mike Stewart
<span style='font-size:
12.0pt'>
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
They are not going on any RV, I just made it up.....I was just trying to
figure out how the sizing designation works..
Thanks guys...Evan
www.evansaviationproducts.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: tire sizes
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Randall Henderson" <randallh@attbi.com>
>
> > I need a quick lesson on sizing tires and tubes...
> > I think that "11.4 x 5" means an 11 inch diameter x 4 ply x 5" inside
> diameter.
> > Did I get it right?
>
> Okay I have to ask.... which RV are you going to put these "tundra tires"
> on? That I'd like to see!
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | checkerboard painting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
SNIP How about going to the sign shop, and getting a checkerboard paint mask.
They have a cutter than works like a pen plotter, and should be able to cut
out a very accurate checkerboard. Buy two of them, apply one and paint one
color, then offset the other mask and paint the other color. SNIP
You don't need 2 masks unless your are a masochist to save 0.1oz of paint weight.
Just paint the base color over the entire area, your rudder for example, and
then apply the checkeboard mask, scuff the area to be painted carefully with
scotchbrite, and apply the contrasting color. Peel the mask off when dry, crack
open a beer and marvel at how awesome it will look at 200mph.
Vince
Message 5
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Subject: | RV's are for sissies :-) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
SNIP
> > **The hardest to build---?? You tail draggers!! You are a spoilt bunch!
You plug in your gear legs into sockets conveniently provided in the engine
mount, you have unobstructed access to the bolts that hold the wing spars
and the RV-4 has a screwed in-panel nose skin for easy access behind the
instrument panel---etc, etc. I'd like to see you go through the contortions
us slow-build, non prepunched, RV-6A builders had to endure, like installing
and torquing the 76 bolts that hold the wing spars and the main gear leg
weldments to the main bulk-head with practically impossible access under the
weldments, and then crawl under the instrument sub-panel to buck the rivets
securing the nose-skin to the main longerons requiring butchered bucking
bars to reach the tight places!! Give me a break!
> >
> > Cheers!!-----Henry Hore
> >
> > > Just admit it, the RV-4 is the best, the sexiest, **(the hardest to
build,) and all the
> > >other RV's wish they were RV-4's (except for the RV-3's, they are like
the
> > >little brother of the RV-4).---- SNIP
You guys are killing me. I've built or helped build a 4,6,7,8,9 and a Rocket.
(yes, a self-proclaimed expert!) If you think just getting access to a few bolts
makes a project tough, for goodness sakes don't try to build a Rocket. You'll
wet your pants just looking over the 2 (or 3) sets of non-coordinating plans.
Then when you see that giant pile of NOT prepunched metal that is 100% full
of parts that almost fit, you'll have a heart attack on the spot. :-)
I must be crazy because I've almost got the F-1H airframe finished. I can't look
at it without softly singing that old Johnny Cash song "I got it one piece
at a time, and it cost me all my dimes. You'll know it's me when I roar o'er
your town."
Vince
Crazy airplane builder.... bbbb, bbbbll, bbbll, bbbb (flip lips with finger)
P.S. Keep building... you're gonna love it, regardless of what RV it is!!!!!!!!!!
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Chris Good" <chrisjgood@lycos.com>
Bill,
I have been flying with a Skymap IIIC in my panel for nearly 3 yrs. I had it updated
at Oshkosh a couple of years ago to add the terrain features (excellent,
but not too useful in flat Wisconsin!). I used the rack mount hardware to integrate
it with my radio stack, although as someone else noted, it wouldn't be
too hard to fabricate a custom mount.
I'm very happy with the unit. I mounted a Gretz GPS antenna on the glare shield
& have never had the unit lose it's GPS position. It's connected to my Navaid
A/P, via the Porcine coupler built in to the Navaid (that's an option). I
can set up a flight plan (the Skymap can store ~99 plans) with multiple legs &
the Navaid will follow it perfectly, including the turns.
The "Systems" section on my website includes a wiring drawing for the Skymap &
Navaid, but it's not complicated. Also, there's a photo at the end of the "photo-log"
"panel" page.
Bendix King has the Skymap IIIC user manual available for free download, if you're
interested:
http://bendixking.com/static/bk_club/pilotguides/techpubs/1100110431_8.pdf
I really like the Skymap!
Regards,
Chris Good,
West Bend, WI
RV-6A N86CG 530 hrs flying
http://rv.supermatrix.com
--
On Thu, 1 May 2003 12:32:39
Bill VonDane wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
>
>Anyone flying the Skymap IIIC?
>How do you like it?
>How did you mount it?
>How do you update it?
>
>Thanks!
>
>-Bill VonDane - RV-8A
>www.vondane.com
>
Get advanced SPAM filtering on Webmail or POP Mail ... Get Lycos Mail!
Message 7
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Subject: | Dimpling Stainless |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
You are right about the required thickness of a sheet for countersinking #4
rivet but in reviewing the plans, I took into consideration that the
firewall was acting like a shield and it would be further held to the frame
by all items like the engine mounts which are bolted right through it. The
frame stiffening gussets would still be anchored by the rivets set into the
countersunk holes in the aluminum angles. With the exception of fuel line
penetration elbow and cable penetration shields, I have no massive items
hanging from the SS panel itself. The brackets holding my oil cooler, the
sensors manifold, etc, are all bolted right through into the frame angles
providing further anchoring of the SS panel. I have my gascolator mounted
inside the port wing root. Nice and cool there
Cheers! Henry Hore.
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
>I'd be very concerned about countersinking instead of dimpling the
firewall. To
>countersink for a #4 rivet you must have at least a .050 sheet. I know,
>stainless is stronger than aluminum but the rivet is still aluminum and is
>hanging on by the "skin of its teeth" (wonder where that saying came
from?). And
>for me, dimpling is easier than countersinking anyway.
>
>Dave RV6 So Cal
>EAA Technical Counselor
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: RV's are for sissies :-) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn" <jhstarn@earthlink.net>
Dang.. Vince if ya'll keep talken 'bout Rockets and Johnny Cash days (RV
pre-punch types) is a gonna tink all Rocket types are from Bakersfield, we's
all ben dare done dat. "Why Yes, as a matter of fact, N561FS is Rocket
Science" Do Not Archive 8+) KABONG. (GBA)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
Subject: RV-List: RV's are for sissies :-)
(yes, a self-proclaimed expert!) see that giant pile of NOT prepunched
metal that is 100% full of parts that almost fit, you'll have a heart attack
on the spot. :-)
I must be crazy because I've almost got the F-1H airframe finished. I can't
look at it without softly singing that old Johnny Cash song "I got it one
piece at a time, and it cost me all my dimes. You'll know it's me when I
roar o'er your town."
Vince
Crazy airplane builder.... bbbb, bbbbll, bbbll, bbbb (flip lips with finger)
P.S. Keep building... you're gonna love it, regardless of what RV it
is!!!!!!!!!!
Message 9
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Subject: | MakingAnAlternatorPulley |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
To improve the reliability of Vans 35amp alternator, which I calculate will turn
10,500rpm at full throttle with the standard pulley, I'm thinking of machining
one myself on a lathe. Our EAA chapter has a lathe but most of my experience,
aside from one shop class long ago, has been on a wood lathe. Once I get
the cowling positioned & make a foot to prevent it from rising, I'll fill the
rest of the space with the biggest pulley that will fit. I'm not worried about
the alternator turning too slow as other posts have convinced me it'll be turning
faster than it did in it's automotive application with any reasonable size
that will fit.
Could those of you with machining experience suggest the type and source of steel
billet material suitable for a pulley of say 4" in diameter or less? Would
aluminum be good? The existing pulley weighs 11oz. Is there a book that would
familiarize me with the correct proceedures/problems? A local chapter member
can show me how to use the lathe, but I don't know what to aim for.
Dave Reel - RV8A
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Dimpling Stainless |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Henry,
I this case I strongly advise you to contact Van's engineering dept. You
could be running the risk of straying more than just a bit away from the
designer's primary structural requirements.
In my opinion' the countersinking process you describe will create a whole
lot of knife edged cutters on a structure that serves multi functions.
Functions such as: fire barrier, equipment mounting plate for firewall
forward and cabin interior, and most important 'the primary forward most
diagonal fuselage structural member'. My understanding of the dimple's
purpose in this application is to mechanically lock the stainless steel
sheeting into it's structural framework in sheer so as to eliminate any
movement under loads.
I realize that there are a lot of reasons to think that the engine mount
etc. provides diagonal strength etc.but there are other forces at play here.
For instance, one that concerns me is the effects of hi, low and harmonic
vibrations and how they might act on all those little very sharp stainless
steel "cutters". In my minds eye I can imagine a lot of smoking rivets
showing up in time.
I am not expert enough and unwilling to pretend that I comprehend 'all' the
ramifications of veering away from the designer's requirements in this way
and in this case.
Please take the contents of this this email as a friendly note of caution
from a concerned list member with only the best intent in mind.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Subject: RV-List: Dimpling Stainless
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry"
<elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
>
>
> You are right about the required thickness of a sheet for countersinking
#4
> rivet but in reviewing the plans, I took into consideration that the
> firewall was acting like a shield and it would be further held to the
frame
> by all items like the engine mounts which are bolted right through it. The
> frame stiffening gussets would still be anchored by the rivets set into
the
> countersunk holes in the aluminum angles. With the exception of fuel line
> penetration elbow and cable penetration shields, I have no massive items
> hanging from the SS panel itself. The brackets holding my oil cooler, the
> sensors manifold, etc, are all bolted right through into the frame angles
> providing further anchoring of the SS panel. I have my gascolator mounted
> inside the port wing root. Nice and cool there
>
> Cheers! Henry Hore.
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
>
> >I'd be very concerned about countersinking instead of dimpling the
> firewall. To
> >countersink for a #4 rivet you must have at least a .050 sheet. I know,
> >stainless is stronger than aluminum but the rivet is still aluminum and
is
> >hanging on by the "skin of its teeth" (wonder where that saying came
> from?). And
> >for me, dimpling is easier than countersinking anyway.
> >
> >Dave RV6 So Cal
> >EAA Technical Counselor
>
>
Message 11
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Subject: | re: rv-list: skymap III |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY@HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM>
Yesterday I called Pacific Coast Avionics to ask about the SkymapIIIC and
the KMD-150. What's the difference, besides the price? The KMD-150 is about
$700 more than the Skymap, but from the ads it's hard to tell what the
difference is. Both are color. Evidently, they have about the same features
the primary difference is that the Skymap is designed as a portable unit and
the KMD-150 is designed for panel installation. The Skymap can be panel
mounted but you have to buy a special kit and, I believe, you need a
permanent mount GPS antenna too. By the time you buy the extra stuff the
cost will be pretty much the same and the KMD-150 looks better on the panel.
I am going to go with the KMD-150.
Rich Crosley
RV-8, engine, panel
Palmdale, CA
Message 12
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Subject: | WTB Electric Turn and Bank Coordinator. |
--> RV-List message posted by: James Bond <rvflyingisfun@yahoo.com>
WTB Electric Turn and Bank Coordinator. Anyone have one for sale. ThanksJames
Bondrvflyingisfun@yahoo.com
---------------------------------
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Dimpling Stainless |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
As an added note because I forgot to include it in the last email:
One of the other loads that will be experienced by the firewall will be
buffeting caused by the pressurized cooling air passing through the cowling
area. the loading rates and temperature changes will vary considerably.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Subject: RV-List: Dimpling Stainless
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry"
<elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
>
>
> You are right about the required thickness of a sheet for countersinking
#4
> rivet but in reviewing the plans, I took into consideration that the
> firewall was acting like a shield and it would be further held to the
frame
> by all items like the engine mounts which are bolted right through it. The
> frame stiffening gussets would still be anchored by the rivets set into
the
> countersunk holes in the aluminum angles. With the exception of fuel line
> penetration elbow and cable penetration shields, I have no massive items
> hanging from the SS panel itself. The brackets holding my oil cooler, the
> sensors manifold, etc, are all bolted right through into the frame angles
> providing further anchoring of the SS panel. I have my gascolator mounted
> inside the port wing root. Nice and cool there
>
> Cheers! Henry Hore.
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
>
> >I'd be very concerned about countersinking instead of dimpling the
> firewall. To
> >countersink for a #4 rivet you must have at least a .050 sheet. I know,
> >stainless is stronger than aluminum but the rivet is still aluminum and
is
> >hanging on by the "skin of its teeth" (wonder where that saying came
> from?). And
> >for me, dimpling is easier than countersinking anyway.
> >
> >Dave RV6 So Cal
> >EAA Technical Counselor
>
>
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: MakingAnAlternatorPulley |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
For that same high RPM reason, I bought a 4" dia one that fits Van's
alternator, made of aluminum, nicely machined, from Spruce, Part # P/N
07-06828. See my Post 4/21/03 re Alt Cooling Air Required?
Cheers!!---Henry Hore
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: RV-6A transporting advise needed |
--> RV-List message posted by: "engines" <engines@a-e-r-o.com>
I HAVE HELPED HAUL SEVERAL AIRPLANES ON OPEN TRAILERS.TAKE LOTS OF CARPET PADING
AND A LARGE ROOL OF PLASTIC WRAP.
I KNOW WHERE THERE IS A COUPLE OF MID TIME ENGINES OR POSSIBLE SET YOU UP WITH
A NEW ONE.LET ME KNOW WHAT SPECIFIC ENGINE YOU ARE LOOKING FOR.WE HAVE TWO OF
THE 180 HP FRONT FUEL INJECTED AVAILABLE.
JESSE ROBINSON
A.E.R.O. AVIATION
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Mike Stephenson" <mike@proclaimweb.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Stephenson" <mike@proclaimweb.com>
>
>
><< If everyone posts something it will get back on track.>>
>
>2 days ago I purchased an incomplete RV-6A kit. All the skin work is
>complete, but the tail feathers,wings and cowling are not mounted. The panel
>is complete. Canopy frame on but canopy Plexiglas not on. No engine nor prop
>(I looking to buy)
>
>I need to get it from Wisconsin to West Texas. Should I haul it on the gear
>or off.
>
>My choices are to fly up and rent a one way truck for $ 1,200.00 or go get
>it with flat bed trailer and build crates to protect it from the rain and
>hail.
>
>What has been your experience?
>
>Regards,
>Mike Stephenson
>Lubbock, TX
>
>
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Dimpling Stainless |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
Jim Jewell wrote:
> In this case I strongly advise you to contact Van's engineering dept. You
> could be running the risk of straying more than just a bit away from the
> designer's primary structural requirements.
While i'm just starting my RV, I did take a few courses at university on
light aircraft design and structures... I too would be *very* concerned
about countersinking the firewall vs. dimpling, and would urge you to
discuss this with Vans A/C before you proceed further.
Henry Hore wrote:
>>You are right about the required thickness of a sheet for countersinking
>>#4 rivet but ...
That "but" is a *very* large BUT. There's a reason there's a required
thickness of sheet for countersinking. If the sheet is too thin, you
end up with, as Jim says, a Stainless Steel cutter that will slice right
through your rivets as vibration and thermal expansion and contration
work on them.
Keep in mind that a dimpled joint is a different animal than a flat
riveted joint. In the former, the dimpled skins share the shear load at
that joint with the rivet (although off the top of my head I don't know
the exact distribution). In the latter, the rivet is taking 100% of the
shear load at that joint, and the load is only concentrated by counter-
sinking the harder/stronger metal on one side.
Again, I urge you to contact Vans and discuss the construction of your
firewall if it doesn't match the drawings/instructions. Van is a very
capable engineer, who probably doesn't want to make the job any harder
for us than it already is, so the dimples are probably there for a reason.
All that being said, it's entirely possible that the loading at this
location is such that countersinking is acceptable. But without either
having it analyzed professionally or getting confirmation from Van that
it was okay, I would not recommend changing the design at such a
critical location in the structure.
-Rob P
rv7 "at" b4 "dot" ca
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Rich,
You bring up a good point. If you buy a SKYMAPIIC for list price, then tack
on the "permanent" antenna, the panel mount, etc.. the price ends up in the
neighborhood of a KMD-150.
That being said, you can routinely pick up the IIIC's on the internet for
$1500-1800.00 which is SIGNIFICANTLY less than a KMD-150.
Also, the cost of the antenna is a mute point, because you have to buy it
for the KMD-150 also. The supplied antenna for the IIIC works fine. It's
mounted flat on my glarshield and is only 3/4" tall, 2x2" square and is
conveniently colored black.
I agree the KMD-150 is a great unit, but there is no reason you can't have a
IIIC completely installed for $1000.00 less than the KMD. Not much money
for those who already have lots of it, but for some of us it buys a radio!
(Or half a Dynon Unit)!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6 Minneapolis.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Crosley, Rich
Subject: RV-List: re: rv-list: skymap III
--> RV-List message posted by: "Crosley, Rich"
<RCROSLEY@HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM>
Yesterday I called Pacific Coast Avionics to ask about the SkymapIIIC and
the KMD-150. What's the difference, besides the price? The KMD-150 is about
$700 more than the Skymap, but from the ads it's hard to tell what the
difference is. Both are color. Evidently, they have about the same features
the primary difference is that the Skymap is designed as a portable unit and
the KMD-150 is designed for panel installation. The Skymap can be panel
mounted but you have to buy a special kit and, I believe, you need a
permanent mount GPS antenna too. By the time you buy the extra stuff the
cost will be pretty much the same and the KMD-150 looks better on the panel.
I am going to go with the KMD-150.
Rich Crosley
RV-8, engine, panel
Palmdale, CA
Message 18
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Subject: | pics of RV8A airplane paint job |
al@vtc.net, HWDJAD@aol.com, rdugas@bayou.com, Elrod3794@aol.com,
jandgf@iamerica.net, jdgummere@dow.com, bobhalsell@yahoo.com,
bobby.hargrave@att.net, Travlnbus@aol.com, cjohnson@jpjcpa.com,
biff@mchsi.com, KellyRHoward@aol.com, PSILeD@aol.com, lois_memaw@yahoo.com,
SIDLOVE@INU.NET, jeffnaul@msn.com, rentmoor@rochelle.net,
capetrus@hotmail.com, Dwpetrus@aol.com, PRYORE@aol.com,
rrogersjr@jam.rr.com, crogers1@jam.rr.com, RV-LIST@matronics.com,
RV8-LIST@matronics.com, DerFlieger@aol.com, miketerry@kjlo.com,
info@vansaircraft.com, WALLB@OIBANK.COM
--> RV-List message posted by: Dwpetrus@aol.com
The paint and graphics were completed today. Check out the attached
airplane.
Wayne Petrus
RV8A
West Monroe, LA
Message 19
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Subject: | Web Site builder documentation of RV projects - Chris Good's |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Chris Good,
Thanks for calling attention to your excellent website. I've looked at
others (not all, by any means) and have seen others who have posted "some"
info on their RV - but your site is absolutely fabulous! Total
documentation of anything I could think of to look up.
- I highly recommend this web site to anyone building an RV!!
Just yesterday I got my courage up again and did the first update/practice
on my own primitive website since Nov 2000. I've changed computers since
then and had to find and learn how to use a different FTP uploader pgm, and
made a new checklist on how to add "daily" (periodic) update pages to the
site.
Now the wife & I need to learn how to download pictures from our digital
camera we bought last Fall and have never downloaded.
I am at the stage of creating schematics and wiring diagrams for my RV-6
electrical system, and plan to use IntelliCAD (open architecture clone of,
and compatible with, Autocad ), starting off with, and modifying, Bob
Nuckoll's drawings and symbols. I noticed your nice wiring info - color,
etc. What program did you use to create such elegantly simple and clear
graphic info?
About your website, did you copy source code from someone else - like I do -
and modify it? Or, did you have a professional web site person design it
for you? I have the 27 page "NCSA - A Beginner's Guide to HTML" document
that I printed off the internet - I use it for my main reference for HTML
stuff . I create & edit web documents with Notepad, the simplest text
editor. Any tips for us new guys to "web site documentation of our
projects"?
David Carter
http://www.datarecall.net/~dcarter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Good" <chrisjgood@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Skymap IIIC
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Chris Good" <chrisjgood@lycos.com>
>
> Bill,
>
> I have been flying with a Skymap IIIC in my panel for nearly 3 yrs.
<snip>>
<snip>
The "Systems" section on my website includes a wiring drawing for the
Skymap & Navaid, but it's not complicated. Also, there's a photo at the end
of the "photo-log" "panel" page.
>
<snip>
> Regards,
>
> Chris Good,
> West Bend, WI
> RV-6A N86CG 530 hrs flying
> http://rv.supermatrix.com
Message 20
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Subject: | Alternative to rudder pedals |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <chrisw3@cox.net>
As I was looking into what it is going to take to get my PPL with my
handicap, I read about paraplegics flying using some kind of contraption
to work the rudder pedals with their hands. I don't even want to think
about the complexity of the use and design of that mechanism with a yoke
type control. While I don't need any modification to the standard
controls, this got me thinking, and I think I have an idea for a similar
adaptation for an RV or most any stick controlled airplane. At or near
the top of the stick you could have two handles welded to the stick on
both sides. Then you could have it setup so it could twist inside it's
mount. Then down at the pivot point you could have some kind of
connection to the rudder cables. Then to activate the rudder, you would
just use the handles to twist the stick. It would take some work to
design the connection to the rudder cables, but rigging it up to twist
and welding the handles to the sides of the stick would be pretty easy.
I don't know if anyone knows some one that could benefit form some thing
like this but I thought I would throw it out there just in case.
do not archive
Chris W
BTW I resisted sending more comments on the recent off topic discussion
and on off topic discussion in general. and instead posted my comments
to my web site if anyone is interested.
http://cdw.homelinux.com:8088/Diatribes.html
Message 21
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Subject: | Re: Alternative to rudder pedals |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
Chris,
This has already been done on an RV. There was an article covering it in
Sport Aviation several (5?) years ago. You might track down that builder
and use his ideas.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris W" <chrisw3@cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: Alternative to rudder pedals
> --> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <chrisw3@cox.net>
>
> As I was looking into what it is going to take to get my PPL with my
> handicap, I read about paraplegics flying using some kind of contraption
> to work the rudder pedals with their hands. I don't even want to think
> about the complexity of the use and design of that mechanism with a yoke
> type control. While I don't need any modification to the standard
> controls, this got me thinking, and I think I have an idea for a similar
> adaptation for an RV or most any stick controlled airplane. At or near
> the top of the stick you could have two handles welded to the stick on
> both sides. Then you could have it setup so it could twist inside it's
> mount. Then down at the pivot point you could have some kind of
> connection to the rudder cables. Then to activate the rudder, you would
> just use the handles to twist the stick. It would take some work to
> design the connection to the rudder cables, but rigging it up to twist
> and welding the handles to the sides of the stick would be pretty easy.
> I don't know if anyone knows some one that could benefit form some thing
> like this but I thought I would throw it out there just in case.
>
> do not archive
>
> Chris W
>
> BTW I resisted sending more comments on the recent off topic discussion
> and on off topic discussion in general. and instead posted my comments
> to my web site if anyone is interested.
> http://cdw.homelinux.com:8088/Diatribes.html
>
>
Message 22
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Subject: | Re: Alternative to rudder pedals |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Chris,
I admire your determination! You should also consider the need for
differential braking in your design. Hand brake levers on each "handle" or
something like that. Unless you will always fly with a "brake operator" in
the right seat, in either model (tailwheel or nosewheel) differential
braking is absolutely critical for ground ops.
do not archive
)_( Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris W" <chrisw3@cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: Alternative to rudder pedals
> --> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <chrisw3@cox.net>
>
> As I was looking into what it is going to take to get my PPL with my
> handicap, I read about paraplegics flying using some kind of contraption
> to work the rudder pedals with their hands. I don't even want to think
> about the complexity of the use and design of that mechanism with a yoke
> type control. While I don't need any modification to the standard
> controls, this got me thinking, and I think I have an idea for a similar
> adaptation for an RV or most any stick controlled airplane. At or near
> the top of the stick you could have two handles welded to the stick on
> both sides. Then you could have it setup so it could twist inside it's
> mount. Then down at the pivot point you could have some kind of
> connection to the rudder cables. Then to activate the rudder, you would
> just use the handles to twist the stick. It would take some work to
> design the connection to the rudder cables, but rigging it up to twist
> and welding the handles to the sides of the stick would be pretty easy.
> I don't know if anyone knows some one that could benefit form some thing
> like this but I thought I would throw it out there just in case.
>
> do not archive
>
> Chris W
>
> BTW I resisted sending more comments on the recent off topic discussion
> and on off topic discussion in general. and instead posted my comments
> to my web site if anyone is interested.
> http://cdw.homelinux.com:8088/Diatribes.html
>
>
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Reichel <scott.reichel@cctechnol.com>
While I'm all for saving money, I'm curious about the outputs of the Skymap
IIIC versus those of the KMD-150, most specifically the output
rate... I've found in the Skymap manual that it outputs nav info at a rate
of once every two seconds. The manual for the KMD-150 doesn't seem to
mention the output rate.
I have no experience with this interfacing autopilots and GPS units in
vehicles as fast as RVs are. Is once every two seconds is enough to keep
an autopilot from weaving around the chosen course? In smooth air, that
shouldn't be an issue, but what about bumpy air?
-Scott
Suffering imminent wallet failure due to dreams of a RV-7
Lafayette, LA
At 02:41 PM 5/2/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>
>Rich,
>
>You bring up a good point. If you buy a SKYMAPIIC for list price, then tack
>on the "permanent" antenna, the panel mount, etc.. the price ends up in the
>neighborhood of a KMD-150.
>
>That being said, you can routinely pick up the IIIC's on the internet for
>$1500-1800.00 which is SIGNIFICANTLY less than a KMD-150.
>
>Also, the cost of the antenna is a mute point, because you have to buy it
>for the KMD-150 also. The supplied antenna for the IIIC works fine. It's
>mounted flat on my glarshield and is only 3/4" tall, 2x2" square and is
>conveniently colored black.
>
>I agree the KMD-150 is a great unit, but there is no reason you can't have a
>IIIC completely installed for $1000.00 less than the KMD. Not much money
>for those who already have lots of it, but for some of us it buys a radio!
>(Or half a Dynon Unit)!
>
>Cheers,
>Stein Bruch
>RV6 Minneapolis.
Message 24
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Subject: | Alternative to rudder pedals |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Chris,
There was an RV-6 builder/pilot at Arlington last year who uses a
wheelchair. I believe he had suffered his injuries in Vietnam. I remember
seeing an article about him in the lasts year or so, probably in Van's
Rvator. I'm sure others on the list know him, if his controls and
experience would be applicable to your situation.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chris W
Subject: RV-List: Alternative to rudder pedals
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <chrisw3@cox.net>
As I was looking into what it is going to take to get my PPL with my
handicap, I read about paraplegics flying using some kind of contraption
to work the rudder pedals with their hands. I don't even want to think
about the complexity of the use and design of that mechanism with a yoke
type control. While I don't need any modification to the standard
controls, this got me thinking, and I think I have an idea for a similar
adaptation for an RV or most any stick controlled airplane. At or near
the top of the stick you could have two handles welded to the stick on
both sides. Then you could have it setup so it could twist inside it's
mount. Then down at the pivot point you could have some kind of
connection to the rudder cables. Then to activate the rudder, you would
just use the handles to twist the stick. It would take some work to
design the connection to the rudder cables, but rigging it up to twist
and welding the handles to the sides of the stick would be pretty easy.
I don't know if anyone knows some one that could benefit form some thing
like this but I thought I would throw it out there just in case.
do not archive
Chris W
Message 25
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|
Subject: | Re: Alternative to rudder pedals |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <chrisw3@cox.net>
Kyle Boatright wrote:
> Chris,
>
> This has already been done on an RV. There was an article covering it in
> Sport Aviation several (5?) years ago. You might track down that builder
> and use his ideas.
I hate it when I come up with an idea that someone else already thought of, oh
well.
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206
chrisw@programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
"They that can give up essential liberty
to obtain a little temporary safety
deserve neither liberty nor safety."
-- Benjamin Franklin, 1759 Historical Review of Pennsylvania
Message 26
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|
Subject: | Re: RV-6A transporting advise needed |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Stephenson" <mike@proclaimweb.com>
Hello Jesse, the IO-360 180hp is my first choice. Where are you located? I
need the times, details and cost on what you have. I'm going to pick up the
kit next Thursday. The route is Amarillo, Oklahoma City, Tulsa, St Louis and
Chicago. I will stop it you are on my way.
Regards,
Mike Stephenson
Lubbock, TX
806-794-4595
RV-List message posted by: "engines" <engines@a-e-r-o.com>
>
> I HAVE HELPED HAUL SEVERAL AIRPLANES ON OPEN TRAILERS.TAKE LOTS OF CARPET
PADING AND A LARGE ROOL OF PLASTIC WRAP.
> I KNOW WHERE THERE IS A COUPLE OF MID TIME ENGINES OR POSSIBLE SET YOU UP
WITH A NEW ONE.LET ME KNOW WHAT SPECIFIC ENGINE YOU ARE LOOKING FOR.WE HAVE
TWO OF THE 180 HP FRONT FUEL INJECTED AVAILABLE.
>
>
> JESSE ROBINSON
> A.E.R.O. AVIATION
>
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
> From: "Mike Stephenson" <mike@proclaimweb.com>
> Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 16:36:16 -0500
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Stephenson" <mike@proclaimweb.com>
> >
> >
> ><< If everyone posts something it will get back on track.>>
> >
> >2 days ago I purchased an incomplete RV-6A kit. All the skin work is
> >complete, but the tail feathers,wings and cowling are not mounted. The
panel
> >is complete. Canopy frame on but canopy Plexiglas not on. No engine nor
prop
> >(I looking to buy)
> >
> >I need to get it from Wisconsin to West Texas. Should I haul it on the
gear
> >or off.
> >
> >My choices are to fly up and rent a one way truck for $ 1,200.00 or go
get
> >it with flat bed trailer and build crates to protect it from the rain and
> >hail.
> >
> >What has been your experience?
> >
> >Regards,
> >Mike Stephenson
> >Lubbock, TX
> >
> >
>
>
Message 27
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Subject: | Re: Alternative to rudder pedals |
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
His name is Carl Hey and he lives in the Portland Oregon area. I've ridden
in the plane with him and it's a real slick setup. Not the way you
describe but with a pair of "control sticks in the middle of his RV-6
(taildragger) just aft of where the throttle quadrant would be. It works
great, I got one of my first rides with Carl about 8 years ago.
He's a parapalegic from a Bonanza accident so he knew how to fly before he
built the plane. He's since toured the country with it and has been a
speaker at many events/forums/workshops for the handicapped including
Special Olympics.
There have been a few RV's modified for folks with one arm (motorcycle
throttle), this is the only one I've known with full hand controls. The
writeup is in Sport Aviation a few years back, I'll try to look it up tonight.
Mike
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode
At 17:33 2003-05-02 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
>
>Chris,
>
>This has already been done on an RV. There was an article covering it in
>Sport Aviation several (5?) years ago. You might track down that builder
>and use his ideas.
>
>KB
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Chris W" <chrisw3@cox.net>
>To: "RV-list" <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Alternative to rudder pedals
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <chrisw3@cox.net>
> >
> > As I was looking into what it is going to take to get my PPL with my
> > handicap, I read about paraplegics flying using some kind of contraption
> > to work the rudder pedals with their hands. I don't even want to think
> > about the complexity of the use and design of that mechanism with a yoke
> > type control. While I don't need any modification to the standard
> > controls, this got me thinking, and I think I have an idea for a similar
> > adaptation for an RV or most any stick controlled airplane. At or near
> > the top of the stick you could have two handles welded to the stick on
> > both sides. Then you could have it setup so it could twist inside it's
> > mount. Then down at the pivot point you could have some kind of
> > connection to the rudder cables. Then to activate the rudder, you would
> > just use the handles to twist the stick. It would take some work to
> > design the connection to the rudder cables, but rigging it up to twist
> > and welding the handles to the sides of the stick would be pretty easy.
> > I don't know if anyone knows some one that could benefit form some thing
> > like this but I thought I would throw it out there just in case.
> >
> > do not archive
> >
> > Chris W
Message 28
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|
Subject: | SL30 & GX60 for Sale |
aeroelectric-list@matronics.com, lancair-list@matronics.com,
glasair-list@matronics.com, avionics-list@matronics.com
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Coonan <gcoonan@comcast.net>
I had lots of inquires on the UPS SL30 & GX60 I posted for sale, but I
accidentally deleted the responses when I was trying to get rid of all
the nonsense threads of late. So here it is again.
Brand new never mounted or powered. Purchased in Sept 02 and 26 month
warranty is transferable (confirmed by UPS)
Sell
Price
Spruce
List
GPS
GX-60
$ 3,550
$ 3,795
$ 5,195
NAV/COM
SL-30
$ 2,850
$ 3,125
$ 4,155
Annunciator
ACU
$ -
$ 625
$ 695
$ 6,400
$ 7,545
$ 10,045
w/ GPSS - GPS steering for autopilots
I prefer to sell them together, so I will give priority to anyone who
wants both. My primary purpose is to sell the GX60, so I will not sell
the SL30 before the GX60.
Gary M. Coonan .
RV-7 Avionics
<mailto:gcoonan@comcast.net> gcoonan@comcast.net
Do Not Archive
Message 29
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|
Subject: | Re: Rudder mounting |
--> RV-List message posted by: emrath <emrath@comcast.net>
This is essentially what I did. Thanks Thomas for the input and to all the
other reply, most honorable mention is the idea of dropping "PLUMB" lines
through the rudder hinge points and maring a line from there to one created
by the point of a plumb bob dropped from the trailing edge of the rudder
itself. Then by swinging the rudder out to the side marking the angle made
on the floor between the original "in-trail" position and the full right or
left rudder position. I ended up at 34 degrees, once the rudder stops were
drilled.
Thanks to everyone who responded. I've been on this list for nearly 6 years
and don't recall seeing this before. A sign I'm getting older.
Marty in Brentwood RV-6A
Time: 09:52:09 PM PST US From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Rudder mounting
--> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent"
<sarg314@earthlink.net>
Sorry to see your email a few days too late, but I haven't check my
email in a while. I just did the rudder angle measurement. Normally
when I mount the rudder, elevator, or aileron, since I know I'm not
mounting it for the last time, I don't use a bolt. I use a tapered pin
made from a short piece of 3/16 rod from the hardware store. I wrap a
few turns of masking tape around one end it to keep it from sliding
all
the way thru the mounting hole. To measure the rudder angle, I
replaced
the pin in the top rudder rod-end bearing with one about 8 inches
long,
so it stuck up an inch or so above the top of the VS.
Then I took a piece of poster board and drew out a straight line
that points forward along the long axis of the plane and a few other
lines pointing aft at 35, 34, 33, degrees either side of the line.
Where the 3 lines intersect, I punched a 3/16 hole. Then I mounted
this
ontop of the rudder by sliding it down on the elongated 3/16 rod
described above. You'll need a step ladder so you can look down on it
all from the top.
Cut the forward dimension of the poster board so it is 1/4" or so
short of the forward tip of the VS. You can now rotate the
posterboard
so the forward end of the line points precisely to the forward edge of
the VS. The portion of the poster board that is aft of the 3/16 rod
should be cut to a radius about the 3/16 rod that is just long enough
to
almost cover up the aft tip of the rudder. The aft tip of the rudder
should be sticking out a 1/4" or so beyond the cardboard. So, you now
have a protractor mounted to the VS and can swing the rudder side to
side to see if it swings far enough and where to position the stops.
emrath wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: emrath <emrath@comcast.net>
>
>Can someone tell me how to measure this movement? It
>seems a template cut to fit the side of the VS and Rudder modified to
make a
>35 degree swing out is in order. However, the swing point is either
the
>center line of the VS and so the fuselage, or it is the forward side
edge of
>the rudder. Can anyone (and everyone) explain how they did this?
>
>Marty in Brentwood TN, Having fun putting the big pieces together.
>
>
>
>
--
Tom Sargent
RV-6A
Message 30
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Subject: | GX60 & SL30 for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Coonan <gcoonan@comcast.net>
I had lots of inquires on the UPS SL30 & GX60 I posted for sale, but I
accidentally deleted the responses when I was trying to get rid of all the
nonsense threads of late. So here it is again.
Brand new never mounted or powered. Purchased in Sept 02 and 26 month
warranty is transferable (confirmed by UPS)
Sell
GPS GX60 w/GPSS $3,550 $3,795
$ 5,195
NAV/COM SL30 $2,850 $3,125
$ 4,155
Annunciator ACU $ 0 $ 625
$ 695
$6,400 $7,545 $10,045
I prefer to sell them together, so I will give priority to anyone who wants
both. My primary purpose is to sell the GX60, so I will not sell the SL30
before the GX60.
Gary M. Coonan .
RV-7 Avionics
gcoonan@comcast.net
Do Not Archive
Message 31
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--> RV-List message posted by: WPAerial@aol.com
My I com 200 checks out okay. Worked on the way to sun n fun but on way home
it would receive okay but push the ppt and the amp meter pegs all the way
over negative. both ppt do this. any ideas where to start trouble shooting?
Jerry Wilken
Albany Oregon
N699WP
Message 32
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Subject: | MakingAnAlternatorPulley |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Dave (and others),
This may not be of great concern to you now but please consider what the
amperage output of the alternator will be and the lower RPMs.
Personally, I think it is too low as it is already. Unless the engine is up
around 2500 RPM (I think) you ***MIGHT** be disappointed if you are
expecting 30-35 amps.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of DAVID REEL
> Sent: Friday, May 02, 2003 12:17 PM
> To: rvlist
> Subject: RV-List: MakingAnAlternatorPulley
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
>
> To improve the reliability of Vans 35amp alternator, which I
> calculate will turn 10,500rpm at full throttle with the standard
> pulley, I'm thinking of machining one myself on a lathe. Our EAA
> chapter has a lathe but most of my experience, aside from one
> shop class long ago, has been on a wood lathe. Once I get the
> cowling positioned & make a foot to prevent it from rising, I'll
> fill the rest of the space with the biggest pulley that will fit.
> I'm not worried about the alternator turning too slow as other
> posts have convinced me it'll be turning faster than it did in
> it's automotive application with any reasonable size that will fit.
>
> Could those of you with machining experience suggest the type and
> source of steel billet material suitable for a pulley of say 4"
> in diameter or less? Would aluminum be good? The existing
> pulley weighs 11oz. Is there a book that would familiarize me
> with the correct proceedures/problems? A local chapter member
> can show me how to use the lathe, but I don't know what to aim for.
>
> Dave Reel - RV8A
>
>
Message 33
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|
Subject: | Lightspeed Electronic Ignition O-320-H2AD, mounting bracket |
plans
--> RV-List message posted by: Robert Blum <bob@theblums.net>
Does anyone have any plans or drawings for mounting brackets to mount
the crank sensor for a Lightspeed electronic ignition on the engine immediately
behind the flywheel on an H2AD?
Thanks Bob Blum
Message 34
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Subject: | Re: MakingAnAlternatorPulley |
--> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@attbi.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
>
> Dave (and others),
>
> This may not be of great concern to you now but please consider what the
> amperage output of the alternator will be and the lower RPMs.
>
> Personally, I think it is too low as it is already. Unless the engine is up
> around 2500 RPM (I think) you ***MIGHT** be disappointed if you are
> expecting 30-35 amps.
>
> James
>
>
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of DAVID REEL
>> > Sent: Friday, May 02, 2003 12:17 PM
>> > To: rvlist
>> > Subject: RV-List: MakingAnAlternatorPulley
>> >
>> >
>> > --> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
>> >
>> > To improve the reliability of Vans 35amp alternator, which I
>> > calculate will turn 10,500rpm at full throttle with the standard
>> > pulley, I'm thinking of machining one myself on a lathe. Our EAA
>> > chapter has a lathe but most of my experience, aside from one
>> > shop class long ago, has been on a wood lathe. Once I get the
>> > cowling positioned & make a foot to prevent it from rising, I'll
>> > fill the rest of the space with the biggest pulley that will fit.
>> > I'm not worried about the alternator turning too slow as other
>> > posts have convinced me it'll be turning faster than it did in
>> > it's automotive application with any reasonable size that will fit.
>> >
>> > Could those of you with machining experience suggest the type and
>> > source of steel billet material suitable for a pulley of say 4"
>> > in diameter or less? Would aluminum be good? The existing
>> > pulley weighs 11oz. Is there a book that would familiarize me
>> > with the correct proceedures/problems? A local chapter member
>> > can show me how to use the lathe, but I don't know what to aim for.
>> >
>> > Dave Reel - RV8A
>> >
>> >
>
>
Mark Landoll sells such a pulley at a reasonable price. I have one and it
is beautiful, turned out of aluminum and with lightening holes. . I have
not used it as I decided the =B3stock=B2 auto pulleys seem about right, for the
modern alternators.
Denis Walsh
Message 35
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|
Subject: | Langley BC Fly-In June 7th |
--> RV-List message posted by: BBreckenridge@att.net
I blew it. After planning to go (by car) to the RV fly-in in Langley, BC (http://
www.vansairforce.org/CYNJ/), my student pilot wife is unable to get away. I live in
Clackamas, OR, about 20 minutes north of Van's in Aurora. IF there is anyone local
who'd like a non-pilot passenger in his RV and would like to attend, I'll cover
the room
cost (2 double beds, already booked) for Friday and Saturday night and split the
AvGas!
Please contact me off list and we'll see if it'll work out. I know, this appears
to be nothing
but a cheesy way to get a ride in an RV - I already got my ONE ride at Van's...!
Bruce Breckenridge
Got the pneumatic squeezer and paint gun, no rivets, no paint...
Do Not Archive
Message 36
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Subject: | Re: MakingAnAlternatorPulley |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
As I understand it:
Alternators can run easily at 16,000 RPM and in fact they will operate quite
effectively at RPMs that go much higher than that. At 'very high' RPMs that
are closer to and into the 20,000 RPM range the belt flexing can cause heat
to build up that could or will contribute to early in service failure.
The more modern thinner glass fiber multi-groove belts can stand the higher
RPMs and or the smaller diameter alternator pulleys that are found in the
more recent auto production years. The need for higher alternator RPM at the
lower engine RPMs has become increasingly important with the advent ever
more complex and higher running loads of modern vehicles. The alternators in
these new vehicles are very unlikely to ever reach high RPMs that could
cause damage from over speed conditions.
Consider the engine RPM that some of the exotic sport vehicles reach and
estimate the alternator speeds that can be created with potential sustained
engine speeds that would kill our average driveway hog's engines.
If anyone can add to, update or otherwise correct any misinformation that
they find here please do so.
Do not archive Jim in Kelowna ... just yet :-)
----- Original Message -----
From: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: MakingAnAlternatorPulley
> --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
>
> Dave (and others),
>
> This may not be of great concern to you now but please consider what the
> amperage output of the alternator will be and the lower RPMs.
>
> Personally, I think it is too low as it is already. Unless the engine is
up
> around 2500 RPM (I think) you ***MIGHT** be disappointed if you are
> expecting 30-35 amps.
>
> James
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of DAVID REEL
> > Sent: Friday, May 02, 2003 12:17 PM
> > To: rvlist
> > Subject: RV-List: MakingAnAlternatorPulley
> >
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
> >
> > To improve the reliability of Vans 35amp alternator, which I
> > calculate will turn 10,500rpm at full throttle with the standard
> > pulley, I'm thinking of machining one myself on a lathe. Our EAA
> > chapter has a lathe but most of my experience, aside from one
> > shop class long ago, has been on a wood lathe. Once I get the
> > cowling positioned & make a foot to prevent it from rising, I'll
> > fill the rest of the space with the biggest pulley that will fit.
> > I'm not worried about the alternator turning too slow as other
> > posts have convinced me it'll be turning faster than it did in
> > it's automotive application with any reasonable size that will fit.
> >
> > Could those of you with machining experience suggest the type and
> > source of steel billet material suitable for a pulley of say 4"
> > in diameter or less? Would aluminum be good? The existing
> > pulley weighs 11oz. Is there a book that would familiarize me
> > with the correct proceedures/problems? A local chapter member
> > can show me how to use the lathe, but I don't know what to aim for.
> >
> > Dave Reel - RV8A
> >
> >
>
>
Message 37
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Subject: | Re: radio tran prob |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 10:15 PM 5/2/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: WPAerial@aol.com
>
>My I com 200 checks out okay. Worked on the way to sun n fun but on way home
>it would receive okay but push the ppt and the amp meter pegs all the way
>over negative. both ppt do this. any ideas where to start trouble shooting?
PPT? You mean PTT push to talk switch I bet. Can you find someone with
same radio to substitute? This of course, is the real easy way.
Otherwise, check connection from radio connecting pin to ground by removing
radio and probing it with a test bulb connected to B+. Lite should lite
when PTT switch is pushed and not otherwise.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 38
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Subject: | Re: Langley BC Fly-In June 7th |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Bruce,
Cheesy!? not at all! I kind of thought your offer showed a noticeable touch
of class. I'm sorry to say I don't live down your way and that my RV is not
flyable (not finished yet).
If I was in your vicinity I would be glad to go out of my way to provide the
kind of transport you seek.
I expect you will have a number of calls and good offers.
Jim in Kelowna
Do not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <BBreckenridge@att.net>
Subject: RV-List: Langley BC Fly-In June 7th
> --> RV-List message posted by: BBreckenridge@att.net
>
> I blew it. After planning to go (by car) to the RV fly-in in Langley, BC
(http://
> www.vansairforce.org/CYNJ/), my student pilot wife is unable to get away.
I live in
> Clackamas, OR, about 20 minutes north of Van's in Aurora. IF there is
anyone local
> who'd like a non-pilot passenger in his RV and would like to attend, I'll
cover the room
> cost (2 double beds, already booked) for Friday and Saturday night and
split the AvGas!
> Please contact me off list and we'll see if it'll work out. I know, this
appears to be nothing
> but a cheesy way to get a ride in an RV - I already got my ONE ride at
Van's...!
>
> Bruce Breckenridge
> Got the pneumatic squeezer and paint gun, no rivets, no paint...
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
Message 39
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|
Subject: | Re: Alternative to rudder pedals |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 5/2/2003 2:59:51 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
terry@tcwatson.com writes:
> There was an RV-6 builder/pilot at Arlington last year who uses a
> wheelchair. I believe he had suffered his injuries in Vietnam. I remember
> seeing an article about him in the lasts year or so, probably in Van's
> Rvator. I'm sure others on the list know him, if his controls and
> experience would be applicable to your situation.
>
The gentleman's name is Bruce Cruikshank. He flies an RV-4 that he built and
engineered for sans legs. He is a great guy, is building an RV-9A currently
and can be reached thru the <A HREF="www.ksavionics.com">www.ksavionics.com website.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 600hrs)
"The church says the earth is flat, but I know that it is round, for I have
seen the shadow on the moon, and I have more faith in a shadow than in the
church."
-Ferdinand Magellan
Message 40
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Subject: | Re: Alternative to rudder pedals |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Actually the RV-6 builder/pilot is Carl Hay he belongs to our
EAA chapter. He is at Arlington every year.
Jerry
do not archive
Vanremog@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 5/2/2003 2:59:51 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> terry@tcwatson.com writes:
>
>
>>There was an RV-6 builder/pilot at Arlington last year who uses a
>>wheelchair. I believe he had suffered his injuries in Vietnam. I remember
>>seeing an article about him in the lasts year or so, probably in Van's
>>Rvator. I'm sure others on the list know him, if his controls and
>>experience would be applicable to your situation.
>>
>
>
> The gentleman's name is Bruce Cruikshank. He flies an RV-4 that he built and
> engineered for sans legs. He is a great guy, is building an RV-9A currently
> and can be reached thru the <A HREF="www.ksavionics.com">www.ksavionics.com website.
>
> -GV (RV-6A N1GV 600hrs)
>
> "The church says the earth is flat, but I know that it is round, for I have
> seen the shadow on the moon, and I have more faith in a shadow than in the
> church."
> -Ferdinand Magellan
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 41
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Subject: | Re: Alternative to rudder pedals |
--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Shenk <dshenk3@attbi.com>
Chris, Carl's setup is very functional and he would be a good source of
info. He took me my first ride in his RV-6 a few years ago and the
rest, as they say, is history. If you don't find him, let me know off
list and I will see if I can find his number. Doug Shenk, using the
"slow-build" technique on a RV-6A quickbuild kit.
Michael McGee wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
>
>His name is Carl Hey and he lives in the Portland Oregon area. I've ridden
>in the plane with him and it's a real slick setup. Not the way you
>describe but with a pair of "control sticks in the middle of his RV-6
>(taildragger) just aft of where the throttle quadrant would be. It works
>great, I got one of my first rides with Carl about 8 years ago.
>
>He's a parapalegic from a Bonanza accident so he knew how to fly before he
>built the plane. He's since toured the country with it and has been a
>speaker at many events/forums/workshops for the handicapped including
>Special Olympics.
>
>There have been a few RV's modified for folks with one arm (motorcycle
>throttle), this is the only one I've known with full hand controls. The
>writeup is in Sport Aviation a few years back, I'll try to look it up tonight.
>
>Mike
>Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
>13B in gestation mode
>
>
>At 17:33 2003-05-02 -0400, you wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
>>
>>Chris,
>>
>>This has already been done on an RV. There was an article covering it in
>>Sport Aviation several (5?) years ago. You might track down that builder
>>and use his ideas.
>>
>>KB
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Chris W" <chrisw3@cox.net>
>>To: "RV-list" <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>Subject: RV-List: Alternative to rudder pedals
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <chrisw3@cox.net>
>>>
>>>As I was looking into what it is going to take to get my PPL with my
>>>handicap, I read about paraplegics flying using some kind of contraption
>>>to work the rudder pedals with their hands. I don't even want to think
>>>about the complexity of the use and design of that mechanism with a yoke
>>>type control. While I don't need any modification to the standard
>>>controls, this got me thinking, and I think I have an idea for a similar
>>>adaptation for an RV or most any stick controlled airplane. At or near
>>>the top of the stick you could have two handles welded to the stick on
>>>both sides. Then you could have it setup so it could twist inside it's
>>>mount. Then down at the pivot point you could have some kind of
>>>connection to the rudder cables. Then to activate the rudder, you would
>>>just use the handles to twist the stick. It would take some work to
>>>design the connection to the rudder cables, but rigging it up to twist
>>>and welding the handles to the sides of the stick would be pretty easy.
>>>I don't know if anyone knows some one that could benefit form some thing
>>>like this but I thought I would throw it out there just in case.
>>>
>>>do not archive
>>>
>>>Chris W
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
>
Message 42
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Subject: | Rebuilding engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon Robertson" <res0rlvx@verizon.net>
It is great to get some real RV information coming in again. Thanks guys!
A few days ago, a thread appeared on rebuilding a 320 engine. I asked
whether that impacted the insurability of the aircraft, but nobody had any
answer. John Helms, are you still here? Has anybody who built up his own
engine had any problems with insuring it (assuming they told the insurance
company, of course)?
It also applies to the XP360 kit engine. I am sure a lot of us would love
to save the $$ and enjoy the building if we could be sure that the insurance
companies would accept it.
Gordon Robertson
RV-8
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