Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:34 AM - Re: Brushing on Iridite 14-2 Question (Dave Smith)
2. 04:39 AM - Re: LED's (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
3. 04:46 AM - Re: Why can one buy powdered Alodine (Dean Pichon)
4. 05:07 AM - Re: Brushing on Iridite 14-2 Question (linn walters)
5. 06:02 AM - Chill----totally OT:-) (Dana Overall)
6. 06:06 AM - Re: Why do we use VariPrime/ Sherwin williams? (LarryRobertHelming)
7. 06:07 AM - Re: 21 years of RV-Ator (Aircraft Technical Book Company)
8. 06:15 AM - Re: Latest AC 43-13? (Aircraft Technical Book Company)
9. 06:22 AM - Re: Cowl Heat Protector Tape for RV8 (a flyer)
10. 06:26 AM - cheap, easy paint booth (Frazier, Vincent A)
11. 06:28 AM - Homebuilder parts (Bob G)
12. 06:33 AM - Re: This is a real story and has been verified with the author and (glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com)
13. 06:50 AM - Backup Instruments (Dave Sundberg)
14. 06:55 AM - AC 43.13 (Wheeler North)
15. 07:04 AM - more painting tips (Frazier, Vincent A)
16. 07:11 AM - fuel vents (Frazier, Vincent A)
17. 07:26 AM - Re: Why can one buy powdered Alodine (Charlie Kuss)
18. 07:26 AM - Re: Brushing on Iridite 14-2 Question (Charlie Kuss)
19. 07:34 AM - Re: VS rib to spar gap (Paul Eastham)
20. 08:10 AM - DP Primer (LarryRobertHelming)
21. 08:35 AM - Circuit Breakers (Glen Matejcek)
22. 08:38 AM - Re: Backup Instruments (Stein Bruch)
23. 08:38 AM - Mud Daubers (Wheeler North)
24. 08:46 AM - Re: cheap, easy paint booth (linn walters)
25. 09:26 AM - Re: DP Primer (Stein Bruch)
26. 09:47 AM - Re: Re: VS rib to spar gap (Bill Dube)
27. 10:36 AM - Re: led's (Bill Dube)
28. 10:41 AM - Another Plane Is Born (Ross Mickey)
29. 11:13 AM - Mounting Oil Air Separator (Edward OConnor)
30. 12:03 PM - Re: This is a real story and has been verified with the (MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1))
31. 12:22 PM - Re: This is a real story and has been verified with the author and ... (HCRV6@aol.com)
32. 12:30 PM - Re: more painting tips (Elsa & Henry)
33. 12:40 PM - Canopy samples (Dana Overall)
34. 01:26 PM - Re: more painting tips (Jim Streit)
35. 01:33 PM - Re: Mounting Oil Air Separator (linn walters)
36. 02:43 PM - 2600 rpm placard (=?Windows-1252?Q?Jack_&_Ren=E9e?=)
37. 03:20 PM - Re: 2600 rpm placard (N13eer@aol.com)
38. 03:22 PM - Fuel vent blockages / mud daubers (Rob W M Shipley)
39. 03:26 PM - Re: Backup Instruments (Boyd Braem)
40. 03:33 PM - Re: led's (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
41. 04:13 PM - Re: Backup Instruments (Terry Watson)
42. 04:27 PM - Re: Fuel vent blockages / mud daubers (linn walters)
43. 04:41 PM - Paint information Thanks (Darwin N. Barrie)
44. 05:00 PM - Re: Canopy samples (kempthornes)
45. 05:03 PM - Re: SS tape (Dean)
46. 06:19 PM - Re: Fuel vent blockages / mud daubers (Elsa & Henry)
47. 06:26 PM - Re: Circuit Breakers (Leesafur@aol.com)
48. 06:36 PM - Re: UHMW Tape (Stein Bruch)
49. 08:09 PM - Re: Backup Instruments (Doug Rozendaal)
50. 10:05 PM - Re: Epoxy primers for aluminum was Why do we use (Charlie Kuss)
51. 10:22 PM - Re: This is a real story and has been verified with the author and ... (JOHN STARN)
52. 11:04 PM - invisible hinge oil door...questionable assembly/painting (Dan Checkoway)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Brushing on Iridite 14-2 Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Smith <dave@rv10project.net>
Charlie, I guess my thinking is that with the limited lifespan (re-use)
that I'd be spending a lot of time recovering the powder (not sure how
that's done yet). I've read msgs that talked about using an air stone
(aquarium type) to keep the solution good, but does that really work? I
don't mind building a dip tank so much, as having to continually recover
& re-mix the solution. (Perhaps recovery is so simple I'm dreading it
for no reason, dunno).
I'm planning to hook up with the local EAA Chapter at the meeting in a
week, and hope to find somebody that will either sell a couple of
pounds, or wants to split some, since I've heard that a 10 lb tin goes a
LONG way. Iridite sounds like the way to go (for me, anyways) vs. the
liquid options. If I can keep the solution in the dip tank workable, it
would be perfect.
Charlie Kuss wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>
>Dave,
> Why do you wish to brush the Iridite on? I've used Iridite 14-2 extensively on
my project. It's great stuff. If you purchase it in powder form, it 's cheap
enough to dip every part. I've dip tank treated every part on my 8A, including
the main longerons, my one piece wing main skins (9' 2 5/8" long) & the fuselage
tail cone skins.
> Buying Alodine or Iridite in liquid form is WAY to expensive. Purchased in powder
form, it works out to under $2 per gallon. With 40 gallons, you can treat
the largest parts of your project and have enough to do all the parts. The dipping
method yields the best results with the least work. I have seen the same
info you refer to, but like you, could find no additional info. Sorry! :-(
>Charlie Kuss
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Smith <dave@rv10project.net>
>>
>>Okay, I've been checking into Iridite 14-2 and found a local distributor
>>here in Spokane. When we talked about different application methods, he
>>mentioned that McDermid makes some kind of kit to go with it to make it
>>'brushable', although he was short on details. Upon further searching
>>of the archives and the net, I ran across a reference to an additive
>>that you put into 14-2 to make it brushable (sorry, can't remember the
>>name).
>>
>>Do folks use 14-2 as is mixed, or are they putting in this additive for
>>when they want to brush/spray the solution?
>>
>>Second question: the sales guy suggested taking the parts to a local
>>shop that specializes in dipping. He said that he knew business had
>>been slow for them, so they would probably cut a good deal. Has anybody
>>else used a shop like this? If so, how much did it cost you?
>>--
>>
>>Dave
>>http://www.rv10project.net
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
--
Dave
http://www.rv10project.net
Message 2
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Kosta Lewis wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
>
> >Trouble found. somebody missed a resistor. Fixed.........
>
> >These things are brighter than incandescents........
>
> Was that before or after the beer??
>
> Do not archive
Yes about the beer....
I might add, these kits come with everything except a 3 power loupe for old
people.
he even includes the solder.
Bill recommends a set of flush cutting dikes to be able to snip the leads off
after they are soldered. I just happened to have a small pair and they were
really handy for this.
Mine are made by Ideal and they are sold in radio and electric supply places.
Otherwise a nice small set with a good pointed end will work good for snipping
the leads.
........
do not archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Why can one buy powdered Alodine |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon@msn.com>
I have read this thread with interest. I have heard that Alodine/Iridite is
available as a powder, but I have been unable to locate a source. Any leads
(especially in the East) would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Dean Pichon
>From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Brushing on Iridite 14-2 Question
>Date: Thu, 06 Nov 2003 21:07:52 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>
>Dave,
> Why do you wish to brush the Iridite on? I've used Iridite 14-2
>extensively on my project. It's great stuff. If you purchase it in powder
>form, it 's cheap enough to dip every part. I've dip tank treated every
>part on my 8A, including the main longerons, my one piece wing main skins
>(9' 2 5/8" long) & the fuselage tail cone skins.
> Buying Alodine or Iridite in liquid form is WAY to expensive. Purchased
>in powder form, it works out to under $2 per gallon. With 40 gallons, you
>can treat the largest parts of your project and have enough to do all the
>parts. The dipping method yields the best results with the least work. I
>have seen the same info you refer to, but like you, could find no
>additional info. Sorry! :-(
>Charlie Kuss
>
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Smith <dave@rv10project.net>
> >
> >Okay, I've been checking into Iridite 14-2 and found a local distributor
> >here in Spokane. When we talked about different application methods, he
> >mentioned that McDermid makes some kind of kit to go with it to make it
> >'brushable', although he was short on details. Upon further searching
> >of the archives and the net, I ran across a reference to an additive
> >that you put into 14-2 to make it brushable (sorry, can't remember the
> >name).
> >
> >Do folks use 14-2 as is mixed, or are they putting in this additive for
> >when they want to brush/spray the solution?
> >
> >Second question: the sales guy suggested taking the parts to a local
> >shop that specializes in dipping. He said that he knew business had
> >been slow for them, so they would probably cut a good deal. Has anybody
> >else used a shop like this? If so, how much did it cost you?
> >--
> >
> >Dave
> >http://www.rv10project.net
> >
> >
>
>
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Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Brushing on Iridite 14-2 Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Charlie Kuss wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>
>Dave,
> Why do you wish to brush the Iridite on? I've used Iridite 14-2 extensively on
my project. It's great stuff. If you purchase it in powder form, it 's cheap
enough to dip every part. I've dip tank treated every part on my 8A, including
the main longerons, my one piece wing main skins (9' 2 5/8" long) & the fuselage
tail cone skins.
> Buying Alodine or Iridite in liquid form is WAY to expensive. Purchased in powder
form, it works out to under $2 per gallon.
>
Where do you get it in powder form? I've searched and came up empty.
If a local source, please find out if they'll ship.
Linn Walters
> With 40 gallons, you can treat the largest parts of your project and have enough
to do all the parts. The dipping method yields the best results with the least
work. I have seen the same info you refer to, but like you, could find no
additional info. Sorry! :-(
>Charlie Kuss
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Chill----totally OT:-) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
I guess I should have put a big ol :-) next to my Chill Pill to Boyd. I was
meant as lighthearted.
Haven't had to search the house for chill pills so far with my canopy
fit......you did notice SO FAR!!
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
MSN Shopping upgraded for the holidays! Snappier product search...
http://shopping.msn.com
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Why do we use VariPrime/ Sherwin williams? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
> Automotive epoxy primers are formulated for use on steel. These epoxy
primers are not intended for use on aluminum. Their formulation does not
offer any special ingredients to prevent corrosion.
>
Thanks very much Charlie for the new information on primers. I am not sure
you are right on this. I look at the product description on PPG DPLF epoxy
primer and it reads, "DPLF.....provides an excellent corrosion resistant
primer. This primer provides excellent adhesions to many types of properly
prepared metal, fiberglass and aluminum substrates, as well as plastic
fillers."
And it is a compatible base surface for PPG Concept paint. I don't see
where DeSoto Desoprime HS is acceptable in that regard.
What is it about acceptability of a paint on a plane that is different from
a car? The folks at Nascar use PPG Concept paints on many race cars that
routinely go over 200 MPH although I don't know what the primer is. I
assume they paint on steel and not aluminum but they may be painting on
composite too. I would like to hear more about why the primer is not
designed for the plane. Thanks for more information.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
On Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Why do we use VariPrime/ Sherwin williams?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>
> Larry,
> DP40LF does not contain strontium chromate. If it's an automotive product,
& is not intended for use on aircraft aluminum. Strontium chromate is the
replacement for Zinc chromate used in Aerospace Mil Spec epoxy primers. I
know that PPG makes aircraft refinishing products. DeSoto is their Aviation
Division. DeSoto Desoprime HS is one product which is specifically
formulated for use on aluminium.
>
>
http://www.ppg.com/prc-desoto/main.asp?img=coat&menuID=2&contLvl=com&catID=2&prodLvl=prime&prodID=1&pdfID=4
>
> http://www.ppg.com/prc-desoto/pdf/desophs.pdf
>
> Automotive epoxy primers are formulated for use on steel. These epoxy
primers are not intended for use on aluminum. Their formulation does not
offer any special ingredients to prevent corrosion.
>
> The link below lists all the aviation primers available through PPG's
DeSoto division.
>
>
http://www.ppg.com/prc-desoto/main.asp?img=coat&menuID=2&contLvl=com&catID=2&prodLvl=prime&prodID=1
>
> DeSoto's Super Koropon is another excellent product for aircarft use. You
can use anything you want on your aircraft. However, why not use a product
specifically designed for aircraft aluminum? Epoxy primers are not cheap, so
why not get the best product for the job?
>
> Charlie Kuss
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming"
<lhelming@sigecom.net>
> >
> >That is why I used 2-part epoxy DP40LF. Also, when you go to do the
finish
> >painting, the DP48LF is a good primer for the PPG Concept paint. Great
> >stuff. And by the way, the DP40/48LF primer can be thinned to make it
flow
> >out nice and smooth. Ask your PPG paint supplier about it. Great primer
> >but you need a air supply to protect yourself or work outside where there
is
> >plenty of fresh air. And it does not dry instantly like some other
primers.
> >Painting in the fall is a good time due to bugs being less common with
> >outside painting. However, I suggest you setup an inside paint booth
large
> >enough to do a detached wing and later the fuselage. That is the best
way
> >to go when you think about it seriously IMO.
> >
> >Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
> >On Finish Kit and painting things Viper Race Yellow over DP48LP primer
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: <DWENSING@aol.com>
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Why do we use VariPrime/ Sherwin williams?
> >
> >
> >> --> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
> >>
> >> In a message dated 11/1/03 11:34:22 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> >> top_gun_toronto@yahoo.ca writes:
> >>
> >>
> >> > For those following our steps... the only true sure way is to Anodize
or
> >> > Epoxy paint. Anything else is a guess against mother nature.
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >> Sorry, but that is not quite true. There are other paint systems that
will
> >> give equal or better corrosion protection versus epoxy. The one thing
> >epoxy does
> >> provide is chemical resistance. i.e. gasoline and oil
> >> Dale Ensing
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: 21 years of RV-Ator |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
The 21 Years of the RV-ator book is the complete 18 Year book plus the
addition of the next 3 years.
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
www.buildersbooks.com
800 780-4115
----- Original Message -----
From: <smoothweasel@juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: 21 years of RV-Ator
> --> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com
>
> I have "The 18 Years Of RV-Ator" and would like to know
> if the new book is an addition to the old one or if it has all new
> material?
>
> do not archive
>
> Joel "Weasel" Graber
> RV-4 finishing
> Brooksville MS
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Latest AC 43-13? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
The most recent change to AC 43.13 was in early 2002. If your copy says
"with Change 1" then you have the most recent copy. A previous major
revision to 43.13 was done in September 1998 and that date is still listed
as the writing date, even with the current "change one" editions.
The cover of the current Jeppesen edition has a picture of a Cessna flying
through a mountain pass. It is combined parts 1B and 2A. The 2A section
starts about 3/4 through the book and does have its own table of contents.
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
www.buildersbooks.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
Subject: RV-List: Latest AC 43-13?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
>
> I'm trying to ensure that I have the latest copy of AC 43-13 (Acceptable
> Methods), in electronic form, and I seem to be in Reference Number Hell.
Can
> someone here play Virgil and guide me out of it?
>
> I have three separate references.
>
> 1. The FAA web site carries AC 43-13-1B, which they annotate with
"September
> 8, 1998 (With Change 1 Incorporated)."
>
> 2. FAA AC 43-16A, dated February, 2002, announces Change 1 to AC
43-13-1B.
>
> 3. Jeppesen carries, in printed form, what they refer to as
"AC-43.13-1B/2A
> with Change 1."
>
> Are 1 and 2 the same document, with AC 43-16A just being a tad late in
> announcing it?
>
> This AC 43-13-2A is very confusing. It's referred to in many places on
the FAA
> web site, but I can't find the actual document. Also, my old copy of the
> Jeppesen book (AC 43.13-1A and AC 43.13-2A combined) appears to be a
single
> document, i.e. there's only one table of contents with no distinction
between
> 1A and 2A, even though they have different titles ("Acceptable Methods..."
and
> "Aircraft Alterations"). Was 2A ever actually a separate document? Did
1B
> supercede both 1A and 2A?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tedd McHenry
> Surrey, BC
> -6 wings
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Cowl Heat Protector Tape for RV8 |
--> RV-List message posted by: a flyer <aflyer@direcway.com>
You need about 6 ft. It does not stretch at all, so you end up cutting it
into strips to make it conform to the compound curves in the cowl. This
makes for a lot of little pieces left over. You only need to cover the
bottom, and sides, near the exhaust tubes.
John Huft
RV8 135 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl@turbonet.com>
Subject: RV-List: Cowl Heat Protector Tape for RV8
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl@turbonet.com>
>
> Hello,
>
> Roughly how much of Van's cowl heat protector tape do I need to order for
the RV8?
> 180 HP
>
> Thanks!
> Vince Himsl
> RV8 - SB Finish
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | cheap, easy paint booth |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
SNIP
>I am considering painting my plane myself. From those who painted their own planes
I'd like to get some input into the type of spray booth they used or made
and any types of fixtures that were used to hold the various components.
.....
>My spray booth is made of 1/2" electrical conduit, cut from 10' lengths
down to 9' so the 10' wide plastic fits over it. I use 90 degree
electrical fittings in the corners of the top. For all other fittings I
use a 1/2" PVC 'T' Buy some 1/2" schedule 80 (the thin stuff) pipe and
cut 2" lengths. Then slit the tubes. Fit them over the conduit and
press the PVC "T"s on the ends of the uprights and crosspieces across
the top. Buy the large ACCO butterfly clips and use these to clamp the
plastic to the frame. It'll take a lot of clips. Bore some small holes
where the uprights hit the floor and put a drywall screw in them and set
the legs over the drywall screw. This will prevent the legs from
sliding when you turn the fan on. In the back of the booth I have a box
that goes all the way across the back, and has rolled fiber-fill
attached to it for the filter.
This paint booth is simple to erect, low cost, and when you're done is
easily transported or stored when broken down.
Linn Walters
SNIP
Linn's idea is just fine, but here's another one that might save you a BUNCH of
time and money.
Go to the local junk tool store, online, or flea market and buy one of the 10'X
20' garage tents that sell for about $100. It comes with EVERYTHING in one box.
It's what I used and it is just the right size for painting RVs.
Here's a few links that shows the tent in action.
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/2003-10-02/painting%20tent.jpg
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/2003-10-02/fuselage%20painting%201.jpg
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/2003-10-02/fuselage%20painting%203.jpg
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/Everything%20else.htm or just read the entire, detailed painting process on this page. It's worth reading if you are painting your own plane. If you're not painting your own plane... you big sissy. LOL. You don't have to thank me.... just send cash. ;-)
Vince Frazier
F-1H Rocket, N540VF, Crazy Horse
<http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Homebuilder parts |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob G" <f1rocketboy@bellsouth.net>
Hi builders,
I recently finished my F1 Rocket. Along the way, I needed some special parts. As
a bunch of other homebuilders also need these parts, I made plenty of them and
made them available on my newly formed website to subsidize my new 14 GPH AVGAS
habit.
Stuff includes F1 Canopy covers, Control stick leather boots and matching anodized
trim rings, Bendix RSA-5 injector adapters, and soon, an external power unit
kit for all homebuilts.
If you feel like surfing, check out the cosmic stuff (homemade EFIS and more) I
have going at ..
www.F1-Rocketboy.com ...Aviation entertainment for homebuilders. Constantly being updated.
Warmest regards,
Rocketboy
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: This is a real story and has been verified with the author |
and
pe ople in the terminal at the time.
11/07/2003 07:58:11 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
Guys as a current veteran, I would like to say thank you to those people
for giving way to the military men and women coming home for r&r. I know I
would have appreciated it just as they did. On the other hand if there
would have been some there that tried to spit on my fellow vets as they did
to you Viet Nam bretheren I would have put my 11 inch boot right up their
keyster and asked them if they wanted some more. Article 15 be damned. I am
proud of my fellow Veterans who served in Viet NAm and although I am in the
reserves at this time I want to say thank you to them as well. Hooah
Glenn Williams
do not archive
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
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| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Backup Instruments |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Sundberg" <david_fs@hotmail.com>
Has anyone flown the Garmin 196 Panel Screen under actual or simulated IFR conditions?
Is it reasonable to plan on it as an emergency-only backup instrument
to get you down safely if the rest of the panel goes dark? I've been scratching
my head over a panel layout and would appreciate some input. My main concern
is with what I realistically need for backup. I'm not IFR rated, but plan
to be shortly after completing my 7, so I want the panel to be at least minimally
IFR capable. The current plan is for:
GRT EFIS
GRT EIS
GTX 327
SL30
GPS196
DigiTrak
AlTrak
Vert. Card Compass
AOA
I may add an IFR GPS later for GPS approaches, but should this panel be sufficient
for "Light (and safe) IFR"?
Dave
Alpharetta, GA
RV-7A - Panel & Wire
Message 14
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Ted,
43.13 1a and 2a are different ACs but have traditionally been published as
one book.
1a was revised to 1b but those of us in industry then pointed out that there
were many errors and omissions in 1b as the rewriter never asked us to
review it. So they issued Change 1.
43.13 are general in nature and apply to all aircraft as appropriate. They
are an "FAA acceptable" source of data for maintenance and alterations,
unless the one condition exists where they can used as "FAA approved"
data.(No other "approved" data source exists, note; this applies to 1b only,
2a is never to be used as an "approved" source)
FAA AC 43-16A's are maintenance alerts which describe specific maintenance
actions, specific to a particular aircraft or system.
W
Time: 08:38:42 PM PST US
From: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
Subject: RV-List: Latest AC 43-13?
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
I'm trying to ensure that I have the latest copy of AC 43-13 (Acceptable
Methods), in electronic form, and I seem to be in Reference Number Hell.
Can
someone here play Virgil and guide me out of it?
I have three separate references.
1. The FAA web site carries AC 43-13-1B, which they annotate with
"September
8, 1998 (With Change 1 Incorporated)."
2. FAA AC 43-16A, dated February, 2002, announces Change 1 to AC 43-13-1B.
3. Jeppesen carries, in printed form, what they refer to as "AC-43.13-1B/2A
with Change 1."
Are 1 and 2 the same document, with AC 43-16A just being a tad late in
announcing it?
This AC 43-13-2A is very confusing. It's referred to in many places on the
FAA
web site, but I can't find the actual document. Also, my old copy of the
Jeppesen book (AC 43.13-1A and AC 43.13-2A combined) appears to be a single
document, i.e. there's only one table of contents with no distinction
between
1A and 2A, even though they have different titles ("Acceptable Methods..."
and
"Aircraft Alterations"). Was 2A ever actually a separate document? Did 1B
supercede both 1A and 2A?
Thanks,
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
-6 wings
DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
From: RV-List Digest Server [mailto:rv-list-digest@matronics.com]
Subject: RV-List Digest: 51 Msgs - 11/06/03
*
==================================================
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---
Total Messages Posted Thu 11/06/03: 51
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:56 AM - IFR tibbits-long and little OT (Dana Overall)
2. 05:09 AM - Re: Fuel Vent plugging variations (linn walters)
3. 05:21 AM - Re: Painting the airframe (linn walters)
4. 05:51 AM - Re: Sensenich Prop Wanted (Gerald Conrad)
5. 05:54 AM - Re: Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal
question ?? (glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com)
6. 06:12 AM - Re: Painting the airframe (JOHN STARN)
7. 06:13 AM - Re: roll on paint (Scott Bilinski)
8. 06:34 AM - Re: Painting the airframe
(glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com)
9. 06:40 AM - Re: Fuel Vent plugging variations (Larry Bowen)
10. 07:10 AM - Re: roll on paint (kempthornes)
11. 08:14 AM - Re: roll on paint (Scott Bilinski)
12. 08:39 AM - Re: Fuel Vents (Mark Phillips)
13. 08:40 AM - Re: Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal
question ?? (Dave Mader)
14. 08:54 AM - Re: Painting the airframe (linn walters)
15. 11:22 AM - Re: Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal
question ?? (Stein Bruch)
16. 11:56 AM - This is a real story and has been verified with the
author and pe (MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1))
17. 12:04 PM - Re: Fuel Vents (Terry Watson)
18. 12:10 PM - Re: Fuel Vents (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
19. 01:04 PM - Re: Fuel Vents (Kosta Lewis)
20. 01:34 PM - Weight of paint..roller Vs spray (C Ennis)
21. 01:37 PM - Re: Fuel Vents (Scott Bilinski)
22. 01:58 PM - Re: Fuel Vents (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
23. 02:29 PM - FW: Polishing Canopy and scratch removal Question
(David.vonLinsowe)
24. 02:37 PM - Lightspeed + Mag Starter Switch? (Jack Blomgren)
25. 03:08 PM - Re: Lightspeed + Mag Starter Switch? (Brian Denk)
26. 04:00 PM - Re: Weight of paint..roller Vs spray (linn walters)
27. 04:21 PM - Re: Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal
question ?? (RV6ator@aol.com)
28. 04:27 PM - Re: Lightspeed + Mag Starter Switch? (Dan Checkoway)
29. 04:30 PM - led lights (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
30. 05:10 PM - Re: Weight of paint..roller Vs spray (linn walters)
31. 05:44 PM - Cowl Heat Protector Tape for RV8 (Vince Himsl)
32. 05:58 PM - Re: Why do we use VariPrime/ Sherwin williams? (Charlie
Kuss)
33. 06:14 PM - Schematic Diagram Wanted (John)
34. 06:27 PM - led's (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
35. 06:27 PM - Re: Brushing on Iridite 14-2 Question (Charlie Kuss)
36. 06:39 PM - LED's (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
37. 06:49 PM - Re: This is a real story and has been verified with the
author and pe ople in the terminal at the time. (Boyd Braem)
38. 07:28 PM - FW: Polishing Canopy and scratch removal Question
(David.vonLinsowe)
39. 08:02 PM - Re: This is a real story and has been verified with the
author and pe (Dana Overall)
40. 08:19 PM - Re: This is a real story and has been verified with the
author and pe ople in the terminal at the time. (Bruce Gray)
41. 08:30 PM - Re: Why do we use VariPrime/ Sherwin williams? (Richard
Sipp)
42. 08:38 PM - Latest AC 43-13? (Tedd McHenry)
43. 08:47 PM - Re: LED's (Kosta Lewis)
44. 08:51 PM - Re: This is a real story and has been verified with the
author and pe ople in the terminal at the time. (Kosta Lewis)
45. 09:01 PM - 21 years of RV-Ator (smoothweasel@juno.com)
46. 09:07 PM - Re: This is a real story and has been verified with the
author and pe ople in the terminal at the time. (Tom Gummo)
47. 09:14 PM - SS tape (Rob W M Shipley)
48. 09:19 PM - Re: Why do we use VariPrime/ Sherwin williams? (Gil
Alexander)
49. 10:05 PM - SoCAL RV RendezVous is GO!!! (WMPALM@aol.com)
50. 10:27 PM - Re: SS tape (Stein Bruch)
51. 10:59 PM - Re: Cheap Sectionals???? (kempthornes)
________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
Time: 03:56:47 AM PST US
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: IFR tibbits-long and little OT
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
I know most of the gang is probably sick and tired of IFR posts but I am
going to throw one more out there. The text of an email from Old Bob is
pasted below. If you are having problems with your local FAA concerning
approaches into your airport, adding GPS approaches but increasing minimas,
anything to do with approahes..........Bob is the guy to talk too. He eats,
breaths and sleeps this stuff.
>>>>>Here it is that I have received my new Jeppesen revision 23-2003 and
>>>>>haven't even completed my report on 22 yet. Since I may never get that
>>>>>done, I will make a few comments on the latest.
This revision is one of the in-between ones that just pick up things that
Jepp didn't get into the data base last time and a bunch of little house
cleaning changes.
Nevertheless, we do have some very good news.
Susanville Municipal Airport at Susanville, CA, has been added to the world
of IFR flight.
They gained an RNAV (GPS) approach to Rwy 29. That must be some tough area
as the minimums are 5220 MSL, (1075 feet AG) and one and one quarter miles
for we Ninety Knotters. Same MDA, but one and one half mile visibility
required for the Ninety Plussers.
There is a particularly interesting twist with this one. There is also a
circling approach and it has a lower minima than the straight in approach!
5040 MSL (891 feet AG) and one and one quarter for both we Ninety Knotters
and the Ninety Plussers.
That just goes to show how innovative those guys can be when they apply the
rules without trying to make the approach accommodate a zero/zero landing
with a 747. Good Show!
More good news. Donalsonville Municipal Airport, Donalsonville, GA, gained
an RNAV (GPS) to Rwy 36 replacing a standalone GPS. By good design, the MDA
was lowered from 660 to 580 MSL (660 to 513 AG). Even the circling approach
minimums came down by eighty feet. The new RNAV (GPS) to Rwy 18 lowered the
MDA from 740 to 580. Super deal. That is big improvement. This one was
done by using a step down fix which they originally wouldn't do. I guess
the efforts put out by AOPA's Randy Kenagy are bearing fruit.
Williams Field at Raymond, MS, received two new RNAV (GPS) approaches. One
to Rwy 12 and the other to Rwy 30. Both have nice minima, but there are no
old ones to compare them with. Both are better than the NDB which was
formerly the only approach available.
Philadelphia, MS, now has two new RNAV (GPS) approaches. One to Rwy 18 and
the other to Rwy 36. They both have better MDAs than the NDBs they replace,
but the new NDBs have a higher MDA now than they did before. I guess there
must have been some new obstacles found. Good thing we got the nice RNAVs.
Williamson-Sodus, NY, has had their standalone GPS approach to Rwy 28
canceled and replaced with two new RNAV (GPS) approaches to Rwys 28 and 10.
Both approaches are lower than the old approach.
Lots of good approaches in this revision and none that I found which have
had their circling minima artificially driven up by irrational application
of VNAV visibility requirements to the circling minima.
Life is Good!
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Frustrated with dial-up? Get high-speed for as low as $26.95.
https://broadband.msn.com (Prices may vary by service area.)
________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
Time: 05:09:42 AM PST US
From: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Vent plugging variations
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Kosta Lewis wrote:
> No injuries but the Bonanza was a write-off. Cause: Mud
>
>
>>daubers had clogged both fuel vents....
>>
>>
>
>Bummer.
>
>Well, let's put it this way: I have never had my fuel vents or hole of
>any kind (!) daubed with mud and I've been here for a really LONG time.
>I know "mud daubers" are certain kinds of wasps that I do not believe
>are indigenous to mountainous Colorado, although their habitat is listed
>as "throughout the United States". I still take a peek at those ol' fuel
>vents though, not to mention my pitot tube prior to every flight, just
>looking for them, or anything else that has decided to set up shop in
>there. 'Specially if the airplane has been 'sitting out' for two weeks,
>which it never does.
>
There are a couple of 'remedies', and come from the Grumman owners.
Depending on your vent size, these may or may not work.
1. A bent pipe cleaner. Fold in half and poke the loose ends in. Bend
the 'bent' part so the pipe cleaner won't push further into the vent.
You can leave them in, or remove before flight.
2. A bent paper clip installed to block the entrance to the vent.
3. A rainbird plastic filter, trimmed to fit.
Linn Walters
>
>Yikes. Not fly for two weeks in the summer? Never happen.
>
>Thanks for setting me straight. I'll be looking for them.
>
>Here's to a Zen approach to preflights.
>
>Michael
>
>
________________________________ Message 3
_____________________________________
Time: 05:21:58 AM PST US
From: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Painting the airframe
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Darwin N. Barrie wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
>
>I am considering painting my plane myself. From those who painted their own
planes
I'd like to get some input into the type of spray booth they used or made
and any types of fixtures that were used to hold the various components.
>
>I'm thinking that one of those car canopies would be big enough and I could
enclose
it to make a fairly sanitary situation. I live in an airpark but there is
lots of construction going on and it is very dusty here so a spray booth of
some type is a must.
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Darwin N. Barrie
>Chandler AZ
>Finish kit stuff
>
My spray booth is made of 1/2" electrical conduit, cut from 10' lengths
down to 9' so the 10' wide plastic fits over it. I use 90 degree
electrical fittings in the corners of the top. For all other fittings I
use a 1/2" PVC 'T' Buy some 1/2" schedule 80 (the thin stuff) pipe and
cut 2" lengths. Then slit the tubes. Fit them over the conduit and
press the PVC "T"s on the ends of the uprights and crosspieces across
the top. Buy the large ACCO butterfly clips and use these to clamp the
plastic to the frame. It'll take a lot of clips. Bore some small holes
where the uprights hit the floor and put a drywall screw in them and set
the legs over the drywall screw. This will prevent the legs from
sliding when you turn the fan on. In the back of the booth I have a box
that goes all the way across the back, and has rolled fiber-fill
attached to it for the filter.
This paint booth is simple to erect, low cost, and when you're done is
easily transported or stored when broken down.
Linn Walters
________________________________ Message 4
_____________________________________
Time: 05:51:55 AM PST US
From: Gerald Conrad <gwc@videotron.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sensenich Prop Wanted
--> RV-List message posted by: Gerald Conrad <gwc@videotron.ca>
Re: Colins Walker prop. This prop is a 70 x 72 wood prop with 150 hrs. I
only acquired this A/C 20 hrs ago so I don't know it's history. It did
fly out of a grass strip with a low time 75+ year old pilot. Upon
removing the black paint on the back side we found many chips that were
covered with paint only. The hairline crack is about 2" long & 1/4" from
the trailing edge starting at the tip. There was a large chip on the
back of the prop at the tip of the blade where the crack started. In
talking with Colin Walker in BC, he said that due to illness he was not
doing any prop work. His repair suggestion was to fill the crack with
epoxy glue. I'll pass that on to a Pro. I have aquired a new Sensenich
metal prop with immediate delivery & much cheaper than Van's. Many
people replied to my wanted add. Thank you all.
Gerry Conrad
________________________________ Message 5
_____________________________________
Time: 05:54:52 AM PST US
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal
question
??
From: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
11/06/2003 07:19:26 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
P.M. I use Micro Mesh to get the bigger scratches. This was what I was
taught during A&P school. It works great but a lot of elbow grease is
involved. For everyday use, I use a product called Brillianize. It sparays
on and you buff untill there is a light haze and then final wipe to a very
clear finish. I would reccomend that you purchase some cheese cloth from
K.C. or Scott paper. The part number for the cloth is 301-purified. From
K.C. paper
Glenn Williams
do not archive
________________________________ Message 6
_____________________________________
Time: 06:12:07 AM PST US
From: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Painting the airframe
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
Opp's....schedule 80 PVC is the extra thick, dark gray, threadable type. Sch
40 is the thick lighter gray and the thin stuff is white sprinkler pipe.
Like your idea, may have to use it. KABONG Do Not Archive
---- Original Message -----
From: "linn walters" <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Painting the airframe
> --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
> Darwin N. Barrie wrote:
> >
> My spray booth is made of 1/2" electrical conduit, cut from 10' lengths
> down to 9' so the 10' wide plastic fits over it. I use 90 degree
> electrical fittings in the corners of the top. For all other fittings I
> use a 1/2" PVC 'T' Buy some 1/2" schedule 80 (the thin stuff) pipe and
> cut 2" lengths.
________________________________ Message 7
_____________________________________
Time: 06:13:52 AM PST US
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: roll on paint
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
The key word, "pushing". The fan was pushing outside air through the 2
furnace filters to remove dust. Then the over spray air was cleaned up by
the exit filters which were ducted to the side door of the garage. The fan
was the floor mount type (not a box fan) has 3 power settings and moves
LARGE amounts of air. I belive all the ones that cost about 45~50 bucks and
can be purchased at Target and like stores are the same type. Oh and you
will need a LOT of tape and it must be taped inside and out, to make sure
it wont come apart later. Once the over spray gets on everything it makes
it very difficult to tape up again.
At 03:54 PM 11/5/03 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
>
>>I had a fan pushing air in through 2 furnace filters.....
>
>I assume your fan was a sealed motor type. Do you have a source? How big
>was it to be effective? An open or Exposed motor can cause a KABOOM to
>occur with flammable paint fumes as the brushes are hanging out in the
>open, subject to producing sparks. Which means you don't want to use
>your K-Mart box fan.
>
>Michael
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________ Message 8
_____________________________________
Time: 06:34:31 AM PST US
Subject: Re: RV-List: Painting the airframe
From: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
11/06/2003 07:58:46 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
A car booth or some type of A-frame enclosed with Plastic will suffice.
also make sure the whole thing is covered in plastic, the floor too. Use 1
or 2 portable fans pointed backwards i.e. pointed to where they blow
outside and pull the vapor out of the booth, and use a house air
conditioning filter in the booth tie wrapped to the back of the fans, as
they blow outward you will get the spray dust out of the "envelope" and
will exhaust the fumes out of the booth. make sure all of the plastic is
taped securely where you have no outside air coming in. And last but not
least ensure you have some sort of personal breathing apparatus to protect
yourself from the toxic fumes. I use a gas mask with exchangeable filters.
Once the filters are unwrapped from the plastic they are good for about 6
to 8 hours of use. I have recently been painting with the dupont PPG paint
and I can tell you from personal experience get something to cover your
eyes as well. Or you will be crying before you finsh the first coat.
Glenn Williams
do not archive
________________________________ Message 9
_____________________________________
Time: 06:40:58 AM PST US
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Vent plugging variations
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I have the flappers normally seen on pitot tubes on my vent lines. Work
great so far, but not flying yet.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
linn walters said:
> --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
> Kosta Lewis wrote:
>
>> No injuries but the Bonanza was a write-off. Cause: Mud
>>
>>
>>>daubers had clogged both fuel vents....
>>>
>>>
>>
>>Bummer.
>>
>>Well, let's put it this way: I have never had my fuel vents or hole of
>>any kind (!) daubed with mud and I've been here for a really LONG time.
>>I know "mud daubers" are certain kinds of wasps that I do not believe
>>are indigenous to mountainous Colorado, although their habitat is listed
>>as "throughout the United States". I still take a peek at those ol' fuel
>>vents though, not to mention my pitot tube prior to every flight, just
>>looking for them, or anything else that has decided to set up shop in
>>there. 'Specially if the airplane has been 'sitting out' for two weeks,
>>which it never does.
>>
> There are a couple of 'remedies', and come from the Grumman owners.
> Depending on your vent size, these may or may not work.
> 1. A bent pipe cleaner. Fold in half and poke the loose ends in. Bend
> the 'bent' part so the pipe cleaner won't push further into the vent.
> You can leave them in, or remove before flight.
>
> 2. A bent paper clip installed to block the entrance to the vent.
>
> 3. A rainbird plastic filter, trimmed to fit.
>
> Linn Walters
________________________________ Message 10
____________________________________
Time: 07:10:47 AM PST US
From: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: roll on paint
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 01:23 PM 11/5/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
>I built a in garage (2 car) paint booth out of PVC pipe and plastic sheet
What size pipe works best, Scott?
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
________________________________ Message 11
____________________________________
Time: 08:14:47 AM PST US
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: roll on paint
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I used the standard size PVC water pipe....what is that, 1.0"...? That was a
bit flimsy but worked. Maybe the next size up would be best, whats that 1.5
inch? I also got a bag of 90 and 45 degree fittings and just went to work a
lot
like tinker toys! If you used a fan to force air into the paint booth as I
did
it will balloon up so tape it all together inside and out with 2 inch
masking
tape. I highly recommend the furnace filters (6) for the out going air. The
largest (24x30?) ones that cost about 4~5 bucks each will stop 99% of the
over
spray but will have to be replaced about 3 times.
I recommend at least 3 feet between whatever your painting and the "paint
booth"
wall.
At 07:12 AM 11/6/03 -0800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
>
>At 01:23 PM 11/5/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>>
>>I built a in garage (2 car) paint booth out of PVC pipe and plastic sheet
>
>What size pipe works best, Scott?
>
>K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
>RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
>PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________ Message 12
____________________________________
Time: 08:39:18 AM PST US
From: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Vents
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
What is the reason for the fittings where the vents go through the floor
anyway? Why not just run the line through a bushing or grommet in a
hole in the floor?
Mark do not archive
________________________________ Message 13
____________________________________
Time: 08:40:12 AM PST US
From: "Dave Mader" <davemader@bresnan.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal
question
??
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Mader" <davemader@bresnan.net>
Stein
Quick question.....do you use a foam buffing wheel rather than wool? If so,
are there different consistencies, (firm, med, soft, etc.?)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Stein Bruch
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal
question ??
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Here's my canopy polishing "tricks".
Try to always "wet sand" the plexi, the results are much better.
If the scratches are deep (you can catch a fingernail on them), start out by
using 600grit wet/dry sandpaper and sand in one direction until the scratch
dissapears.
Move to 1000 grit, sanding the opposite direction until all the 600 grit
marks are gone.
Move then to 1500 grit, once again removing all previous mars,
Then, polish with a buffing wheel using 3M Liquid Polishing Compound
(Carquest/Napa, etc..).
http://www.steinair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of P M Condon
Subject: RV-List: Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal
question ??
--> RV-List message posted by: P M Condon <pcondon@mitre.org>
What have RV-ers been using to polish canopies? I have been using Plexus
with good results as a cleaner/polisher. I need to polish/buff out some
micro
fine scratches so I am wondering what others are using to do this? At
the AOPA convention this weekend I purchased a Flitz polishing kit.....I
am not thrilled with the results on plastic. I realize that micro-mesh
and other similar companies have a product...I am wondering what else is
out there that polishes out micro scratches and all that. There are
canopies on RV's at Oshkosh that look like Todd just took them out of
the mold-there so clean and scratch free...
________________________________ Message 14
____________________________________
Time: 08:54:14 AM PST US
From: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Painting the airframe
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
JOHN STARN wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
>
>Opp's....schedule 80 PVC is the extra thick, dark gray, threadable type.
Sch
>40 is the thick lighter gray and the thin stuff is white sprinkler pipe.
>Like your idea, may have to use it. KABONG
>
It's the thin white stuff.
Linn
________________________________ Message 15
____________________________________
Time: 11:22:45 AM PST US
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal
question
??
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
If I'm starting on deeper "cobwebs" or scratches, I'll use a 'light-cut'
wool polishing pad, but if I'm finishing up, I use the foam polishing pads.
I dont recall which consitency I have, I just know they are the 3M foam
polishing pads (no deep cut).
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave Mader
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal
question ??
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Mader" <davemader@bresnan.net>
Stein
Quick question.....do you use a foam buffing wheel rather than wool? If so,
are there different consistencies, (firm, med, soft, etc.?)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Stein Bruch
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal
question ??
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Here's my canopy polishing "tricks".
Try to always "wet sand" the plexi, the results are much better.
If the scratches are deep (you can catch a fingernail on them), start out by
using 600grit wet/dry sandpaper and sand in one direction until the scratch
dissapears.
Move to 1000 grit, sanding the opposite direction until all the 600 grit
marks are gone.
Move then to 1500 grit, once again removing all previous mars,
Then, polish with a buffing wheel using 3M Liquid Polishing Compound
(Carquest/Napa, etc..).
http://www.steinair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of P M Condon
Subject: RV-List: Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal
question ??
--> RV-List message posted by: P M Condon <pcondon@mitre.org>
What have RV-ers been using to polish canopies? I have been using Plexus
with good results as a cleaner/polisher. I need to polish/buff out some
micro
fine scratches so I am wondering what others are using to do this? At
the AOPA convention this weekend I purchased a Flitz polishing kit.....I
am not thrilled with the results on plastic. I realize that micro-mesh
and other similar companies have a product...I am wondering what else is
out there that polishes out micro scratches and all that. There are
canopies on RV's at Oshkosh that look like Todd just took them out of
the mold-there so clean and scratch free...
________________________________ Message 16
____________________________________
Time: 11:56:01 AM PST US
From: "MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" <stephanie.marshall@HP.COM>
ople in the terminal at the time.
Subject: RV-List: This is a real story and has been verified with the author
and
pe
ople in the terminal at the time.
--> RV-List message posted by: "MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1)"
<stephanie.marshall@hp.com>
This is a real story and has been verified with the author and people in the
terminal at the time (see bottom of page).
Dear Friends and Family,
I hope that you will spare me a few minutes of your time to tell you about
something that I saw on Monday, October 27.
I had been attending a conference in Annapolis and was coming home on
Sunday. As you may recall, Los Angeles International Airport was closed on
Sunday, October 26, because of the fires that affected air traffic control.
Accordingly, my flight, and many others, were canceled and I wound up
spending a night in Baltimore.
My story begins the next day. When I went to check in at the United counter
Monday morning I saw a lot of soldiers home from Iraq. Most were very young
and all had on their desert camouflage uniforms. This was as change from
earlier, when they had to buy civilian clothes in Kuwait to fly home. It was
a visible reminder that we are in a war. It probably was pretty close to
what train terminals were like in World War II.
Many people were stopping the troops to talk to them, asking them questions
in the Starbucks line or just saying "Welcome Home." In addition to all the
flights that had been canceled on Sunday, the weather was terrible in
Baltimore and the flights were backed up. So, there were a lot of unhappy
people in the terminal trying to get home, but nobody that I saw gave the
soldiers a bad time.
By the afternoon, one plane to Denver had been delayed several hours. United
personnel kept asking for volunteers to give up their seats and take another
flight. They weren't getting many takers. Finally, a United spokeswoman got
on the PA and said this, "Folks. As you can see, there are a lot of soldiers
in the waiting area. They only have 14 days of leave and we're trying to get
them where they need to go without spending any more time in an airport then
they have to. We sold them all tickets, knowing we would oversell the
flight. If we can, we want to get them all on this flight. We want all the
soldiers to know that we respect what you're doing, we are here for you and
we love you."
At that, the entire terminal of cranky, tired, travel-weary people, a
cross-section of America, broke into sustained and heart-felt applause. The
soldiers looked surprised and very modest. Most of them just looked at their
boots. Many of us were wiping away tears.
And, yes, people lined up to take the later flight and all the soldiers went
to Denver on that flight.
That little moment made me proud to be an American, and also told me why we
will win this war.
If you want to send my little story on to your friends and family, feel
free. This is not some urban legend. I was there, I was part of it, I saw it
happen.
Will Ross
Administrative Judge
United States Department of Defense
(Verification of story is at http://www.snopes.com/politics/war/onleave.asp
)
________________________________ Message 17
____________________________________
Time: 12:04:14 PM PST US
From: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Vents
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
That's exactly what my RV-8 plans show, or maybe that's why you are asking.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mark Phillips
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Vents
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
What is the reason for the fittings where the vents go through the floor
anyway? Why not just run the line through a bushing or grommet in a
hole in the floor?
Mark do not archive
________________________________ Message 18
____________________________________
Time: 12:10:08 PM PST US
From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Vents
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
<sisson@consolidated.net>
Mark Phillips wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
>
> What is the reason for the fittings where the vents go through the floor
> anyway? Why not just run the line through a bushing or grommet in a
> hole in the floor?
>
> Mark do not archive
Or run them down the gear leg where they wont ice up.....
________________________________ Message 19
____________________________________
Time: 01:04:31 PM PST US
From: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Vents
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
>What is the reason for the fittings where the vents go through the
floor
>anyway? Why not just run the line through a bushing or grommet in a
>hole in the floor?
All manners of vile fumes could enter the cockpit if the holes were not
sealed: exhaust and oil breather would be enough. Ever seen the belly of
an airplane? Lots of junk there. You don't want that stuff in where you
are living.
Yuck.
Michael
________________________________ Message 20
____________________________________
Time: 01:34:38 PM PST US
From: "C Ennis" <sgtairdog@peoplepc.com>
Subject: RV-List: Weight of paint..roller Vs spray
--> RV-List message posted by: "C Ennis" <sgtairdog@peoplepc.com>
In one of the posts on 11/06 someone stated some stats for the weight of
paint
being the same wether rolled, brushed or sprayed. The sq. ft. coverage was
the
same per gallon. While that is probably true, please consider the overspray
which
does not adhere to the airframe...versus what may drip off the brush or
roller onto the floor. I believe the advantages of spray painting include
much
less weight and no doubt a much more consistant paint film thickness over
the
whole airframe.
If someone could figure out how to get all the overspray to adhere to the
airframe
instead of winding up in those airfilters, we could cut the cost of a paint
job in half.
Just my opinion...rebuttals?
Charlie Ennis RV-6A Working on the fiberglass. UGH
________________________________ Message 21
____________________________________
Time: 01:37:42 PM PST US
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Vents
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Thats the way my RV8 instructions described it.
At 11:40 AM 11/6/03 -0600, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
>
>What is the reason for the fittings where the vents go through the floor
>anyway? Why not just run the line through a bushing or grommet in a
>hole in the floor?
>
>Mark do not archive
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________ Message 22
____________________________________
Time: 01:58:56 PM PST US
From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Vents
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
<sisson@consolidated.net>
Terry Watson wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
>
> That's exactly what my RV-8 plans show, or maybe that's why you are
asking.
>
> Terry
no I didnt know that.. But I know Curtis Pitt's has been
pointing them straight back (down by the wheel) since 1943. It keeps the
small
bugs from going head-on into the fuel. They don't drink much though.
I don't know why a fuel pumped system needs to pressurize the tank with ram
air. The air in the tank needs to breath out and in as the plane climbs and
desends. They are actually static ports to allow this air to go in and out.
Phil
do not archive
________________________________ Message 23
____________________________________
Time: 02:29:32 PM PST US
Subject: RV-List: FW: Polishing Canopy and scratch removal Question
From: "David.vonLinsowe" <David.vonLinsowe@delphi.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "David.vonLinsowe"
<David.vonLinsowe@delphi.com>
I should also say that when you switch to a finer grit/grade paper, your
sanding strokes need to be 90 degrees from the previous grit/grade.
Only go to the next finer grit/grade when you can no longer see any of
the scratches from the previous grit/grade.
What you're really doing is replacing scratches with finer scratches.
It's important that the coarser scratches are gone before going to a
finer grit/grade. By switching back and forth 90 degrees you can tell
if you sanded/polished enough before moving on.
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: vonLinsowe, David
Subject: FW: Polishing Canopy and scratch removal Question
From experience I had with a Pitts canopy I would highly recommend the
Micro Mesh system then finish off with Finish 2001 in the bright green
and orange bottle.
I went from sanding with 320 wet-or-dry all through Micro Mesh's steps.
It turned out nice, but the Finish 2001 really did the trick. I use the
Finish 2001 all the time on the RV canopy for cleaning and de-hazing and
I haven't found anything that works as well! It does polish, but I also
think it somehow fills small scratches so they can't be seen at all. It
makes the Plexiglas invisible.
The problem I have now is nose prints on the canopy. People can't tell
where the canopy is so they run into it with their nose...
Dave
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of P M Condon
Subject: RV-List: Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal
question ??
--> RV-List message posted by: P M Condon <pcondon@mitre.org>
What have RV-ers been using to polish canopies? I have been using Plexus
with good results as a cleaner/polisher. I need to polish out some micro
fine scratches so I am wondering what others are using to do this? At
the AOPA convention this weekend I purchased a Flitz polishing kit.....I
am not thrilled with the results on plastic. I realize that micro-mesh
and other similar companies have a product...I am wondering what else is
out there that polishes out micro scratches and all that. There are
canopies on RV's at Oshkosh that look like Todd just took them out of
the mold-there so clean and scratch free...
****************************************************************************
************
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________________________________ Message 24
____________________________________
Time: 02:37:56 PM PST US
From: "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Lightspeed + Mag Starter Switch?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet@hotmail.com>
RV Builders/Flyers,
I'm looking for a good keyed starter/ignition switch solution to use with
toggle switches for one Lightspeed, one Slick mag configuration. If you
have the same setup and arrived at a happy, non-Van's mag switch solution,
your response will be appreciated.
NAPPA has two catalog pages of keyed ignition/starter switches with a
variety of contact or circuit arrangements. If you used or know these
Standard (domestic, non-Chinese) switches could you share recommended
catalog or part numbers for the growing number of two-type ignition RV
builders. Thanks much in advance.
Jack, Red Wing, MN
-8 panel, wiring
________________________________ Message 25
____________________________________
Time: 03:08:35 PM PST US
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lightspeed + Mag Starter Switch?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>RV Builders/Flyers,
>
>I'm looking for a good keyed starter/ignition switch solution to use with
>toggle switches for one Lightspeed, one Slick mag configuration. If you
>have the same setup and arrived at a happy, non-Van's mag switch solution,
>your response will be appreciated.
>
>NAPPA has two catalog pages of keyed ignition/starter switches with a
>variety of contact or circuit arrangements. If you used or know these
>Standard (domestic, non-Chinese) switches could you share recommended
>catalog or part numbers for the growing number of two-type ignition RV
>builders. Thanks much in advance.
>
>Jack, Red Wing, MN
>-8 panel, wiring
Jack,
As a dual ignition source RV8 driver, I found the most simple solution was
to just use toggle switches for both. I inverted one so they both are UP
when they are hot. Remember, the logic is opposite with this
installation....closed switch to fire up the Lightspeed, and open switch to
render the mag active. Key switches are of marginal value in light
airplanes. It's utterly simple for Joe Dirtbag to reach under the panel and
short out or open the wires to get the engine started. Digikey and Newark
should have various forms of keyed switches if you truly feel a key is
necessary.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
350 hrs.
________________________________ Message 26
____________________________________
Time: 04:00:45 PM PST US
From: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Weight of paint..roller Vs spray
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
C Ennis wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "C Ennis" <sgtairdog@peoplepc.com>
>
>In one of the posts on 11/06 someone stated some stats for the weight of
paint
being the same wether rolled, brushed or sprayed. The sq. ft. coverage was
the
same per gallon. While that is probably true, please consider the overspray
which does not adhere to the airframe...versus what may drip off the brush
or
roller onto the floor. I believe the advantages of spray painting include
much
less weight and no doubt a much more consistant paint film thickness over
the
whole airframe.
> If someone could figure out how to get all the overspray to adhere to the
airframe
instead of winding up in those airfilters, we could cut the cost of a paint
job in half.
> Just my opinion...rebuttals?
> Charlie Ennis RV-6A Working on the fiberglass. UGH
>
>
>
I agree with everything you said about spraying. Rolling just doesn't
put down a consistent thickness film. As to overspray, we know that the
standard high pressure air sprayer has an overabundance of it. We can
cut that down a little with HVLP, High Volume Low Pressure. If you
already have a compressor, then you'll spend more money on a
turbine-type 'compressor'. there are, however, HVLP guns that will hook
up to your high pressure compressor. The next best thing is
static-charged painting. I haven't tried this, but Harbor freight has a
powder coat system for $99 that might be adapted to a regular spray
gun. It places a charge on the powder (I think +) and the workpiece is
charged - ..... and the powder is attracted evenly on the workpiece.
Should work the same with paint. The car makers used a charged paint
system (with robotic sprayers, of course .... a bit of overkill for what
we need) and it seems OK.
Linn
________________________________ Message 27
____________________________________
Time: 04:21:58 PM PST US
From: RV6ator@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal
question
??
--> RV-List message posted by: RV6ator@aol.com
The best thing I have found for new or old canopies is 3M Liquid Polish P/N
05993. Available at Auto stores that sell 3M products. This stuff works
great
on restoring faded or scratched canopies, I have found nothing better.
Regards,
Bill Mahoney
Sherman, CT
RV6 N747W
Sherman, CT
________________________________ Message 28
____________________________________
Time: 04:27:54 PM PST US
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lightspeed + Mag Starter Switch?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I have to ask...why use a key at all? Using two toggle switches seems
simpler, cheaper, lighter, and less complicated to wire.
Other than prop locks and hangar locks, I'm not a big fan of keys/locks in
general, so take this with a grain of salt! 8-)
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (no keys anywhere...come steal my plane)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Lightspeed + Mag Starter Switch?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet@hotmail.com>
>
> RV Builders/Flyers,
>
> I'm looking for a good keyed starter/ignition switch solution to use with
> toggle switches for one Lightspeed, one Slick mag configuration. If you
> have the same setup and arrived at a happy, non-Van's mag switch solution,
> your response will be appreciated.
>
> NAPPA has two catalog pages of keyed ignition/starter switches with a
> variety of contact or circuit arrangements. If you used or know these
> Standard (domestic, non-Chinese) switches could you share recommended
> catalog or part numbers for the growing number of two-type ignition RV
> builders. Thanks much in advance.
>
> Jack, Red Wing, MN
> -8 panel, wiring
>
>
________________________________ Message 29
____________________________________
Time: 04:30:50 PM PST US
From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Subject: RV-List: led lights
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
<sisson@consolidated.net>
lights just arrived. 6:30 CST
gathering tools........
will report later when done........
Phil
do not archive
________________________________ Message 30
____________________________________
Time: 05:10:25 PM PST US
From: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Weight of paint..roller Vs spray
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
C Ennis wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "C Ennis" <sgtairdog@peoplepc.com>
>
>In one of the posts on 11/06 someone stated some stats for the weight of
paint
being the same wether rolled, brushed or sprayed. The sq. ft. coverage was
the
same per gallon. While that is probably true, please consider the overspray
which does not adhere to the airframe...versus what may drip off the brush
or
roller onto the floor. I believe the advantages of spray painting include
much
less weight and no doubt a much more consistant paint film thickness over
the
whole airframe.
> If someone could figure out how to get all the overspray to adhere to the
airframe
instead of winding up in those airfilters, we could cut the cost of a paint
job in half.
> Just my opinion...rebuttals?
> Charlie Ennis RV-6A Working on the fiberglass. UGH
>
>
>
I agree with everything you said about spraying. Rolling just doesn't
put down a consistent thickness film. As to overspray, we know that the
standard high pressure air sprayer has an overabundance of it. We can
cut that down a little with HVLP, High Volume Low Pressure. If you
already have a compressor, then you'll spend more money on a
turbine-type 'compressor'. there are, however, HVLP guns that will hook
up to your high pressure compressor. The next best thing is
static-charged painting. I haven't tried this, but Harbor freight has a
powder coat system for $99 that might be adapted to a regular spray
gun. It places a charge on the powder (I think +) and the workpiece is
charged - ..... and the powder is attracted evenly on the workpiece.
Should work the same with paint. The car makers used a charged paint
system (with robotic sprayers, of course .... a bit of overkill for what
we need) and it seems OK.
Linn
________________________________ Message 31
____________________________________
Time: 05:44:29 PM PST US
From: "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl@turbonet.com>
Subject: RV-List: Cowl Heat Protector Tape for RV8
--> RV-List message posted by: "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl@turbonet.com>
Hello,
Roughly how much of Van's cowl heat protector tape do I need to order for
the RV8?
180 HP
Thanks!
Vince Himsl
RV8 - SB Finish
________________________________ Message 32
____________________________________
Time: 05:58:10 PM PST US
From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Why do we use VariPrime/ Sherwin williams?
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Larry,
DP40LF does not contain strontium chromate. If it's an automotive product, &
is
not intended for use on aircraft aluminum. Strontium chromate is the
replacement
for Zinc chromate used in Aerospace Mil Spec epoxy primers. I know that PPG
makes aircraft refinishing products. DeSoto is their Aviation Division.
DeSoto
Desoprime HS is one product which is specifically formulated for use on
aluminium.
http://www.ppg.com/prc-desoto/main.asp?img=coat&menuID=2&contLvl=com&catID=2
&prodLvl=prime&prodID=1&pdfID=4
http://www.ppg.com/prc-desoto/pdf/desophs.pdf
Automotive epoxy primers are formulated for use on steel. These epoxy
primers
are not intended for use on aluminum. Their formulation does not offer any
special
ingredients to prevent corrosion.
The link below lists all the aviation primers available through PPG's DeSoto
division.
http://www.ppg.com/prc-desoto/main.asp?img=coat&menuID=2&contLvl=com&catID=2
&prodLvl=prime&prodID=1
DeSoto's Super Koropon is another excellent product for aircarft use. You
can use
anything you want on your aircraft. However, why not use a product
specifically
designed for aircraft aluminum? Epoxy primers are not cheap, so why not get
the best product for the job?
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
>
>That is why I used 2-part epoxy DP40LF. Also, when you go to do the finish
>painting, the DP48LF is a good primer for the PPG Concept paint. Great
>stuff. And by the way, the DP40/48LF primer can be thinned to make it flow
>out nice and smooth. Ask your PPG paint supplier about it. Great primer
>but you need a air supply to protect yourself or work outside where there
is
>plenty of fresh air. And it does not dry instantly like some other
primers.
>Painting in the fall is a good time due to bugs being less common with
>outside painting. However, I suggest you setup an inside paint booth large
>enough to do a detached wing and later the fuselage. That is the best way
>to go when you think about it seriously IMO.
>
>Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
>On Finish Kit and painting things Viper Race Yellow over DP48LP primer
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <DWENSING@aol.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Why do we use VariPrime/ Sherwin williams?
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
>>
>> In a message dated 11/1/03 11:34:22 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>> top_gun_toronto@yahoo.ca writes:
>>
>>
>> > For those following our steps... the only true sure way is to Anodize
or
>> > Epoxy paint. Anything else is a guess against mother nature.
>> >
>> >
>>
>> Sorry, but that is not quite true. There are other paint systems that
will
>> give equal or better corrosion protection versus epoxy. The one thing
>epoxy does
>> provide is chemical resistance. i.e. gasoline and oil
>> Dale Ensing
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________ Message 33
____________________________________
Time: 06:14:06 PM PST US
From: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
Subject: RV-List: Schematic Diagram Wanted
--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
Is there anyone one the list who has an internal schematic diagram of the PS
Engineering intercom? I have a model PS501 and want to trouble shoot beyond
the information provided by the manufacturer - they only give the
inputs/outputs without any internal diagrams.
Thanks...a long shot I know.
John at Salida, CO
________________________________ Message 34
____________________________________
Time: 06:27:33 PM PST US
From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Subject: RV-List: led's
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
<sisson@consolidated.net>
green board tested 8:25
two led's are dim, but it can't be detected. they are in the forward facing
cluster
and they are so
bright that they are not noticed.....
will trouble shoot later when vision returns.
Now I do a beer......
Phil
________________________________ Message 35
____________________________________
Time: 06:27:58 PM PST US
From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Brushing on Iridite 14-2 Question
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Dave,
Why do you wish to brush the Iridite on? I've used Iridite 14-2 extensively
on
my project. It's great stuff. If you purchase it in powder form, it 's cheap
enough to dip every part. I've dip tank treated every part on my 8A,
including
the main longerons, my one piece wing main skins (9' 2 5/8" long) & the
fuselage
tail cone skins.
Buying Alodine or Iridite in liquid form is WAY to expensive. Purchased in
powder
form, it works out to under $2 per gallon. With 40 gallons, you can treat
the largest parts of your project and have enough to do all the parts. The
dipping
method yields the best results with the least work. I have seen the same
info you refer to, but like you, could find no additional info. Sorry! :-(
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Smith <dave@rv10project.net>
>
>Okay, I've been checking into Iridite 14-2 and found a local distributor
>here in Spokane. When we talked about different application methods, he
>mentioned that McDermid makes some kind of kit to go with it to make it
>'brushable', although he was short on details. Upon further searching
>of the archives and the net, I ran across a reference to an additive
>that you put into 14-2 to make it brushable (sorry, can't remember the
>name).
>
>Do folks use 14-2 as is mixed, or are they putting in this additive for
>when they want to brush/spray the solution?
>
>Second question: the sales guy suggested taking the parts to a local
>shop that specializes in dipping. He said that he knew business had
>been slow for them, so they would probably cut a good deal. Has anybody
>else used a shop like this? If so, how much did it cost you?
>--
>
>Dave
>http://www.rv10project.net
>
>
________________________________ Message 36
____________________________________
Time: 06:39:30 PM PST US
From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Subject: RV-List: LED's
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
<sisson@consolidated.net>
Trouble found. somebody missed a resistor. Fixed.........
These things are brighter than incandescents........
Phil
do not archive
________________________________ Message 37
____________________________________
Time: 06:49:41 PM PST US
Subject: Re: RV-List: This is a real story and has been verified with the
author
and pe ople in the terminal at the time.
From: Boyd Braem <bcbraem@comcast.net>
--> RV-List message posted by: Boyd Braem <bcbraem@comcast.net>
Yeah, that's the same reception I got coming back from Viet Nam. Would
you like me to drop napalm on some one?--maybe some women or a few
kids? I was actually quite accurate in bombing with the A4-Skyhawk
("Scooter"--to you guys that were there)--I can put a bunch of 500's in
your neighbor's house if you want or just mess up the whole yard with
Zunis--I mean they spent a lot of money to train me to do that.
Actually, there was ONE A4 pilot who shot down a MiG with his Zunis--it
was accidental but still a good day. And it was LT John McCain's A4
that started the big fire on the Forrestall (Forest Fire) when a
missile from an F-4 hit the bottom of his fuselage (and fuel tank, oh,
yeah, and then some bombs) and he had to run out on his refueling probe
to get out of the flames--they didn't have 0/0 ejection seats back then
(1967?). The worst thing was that the fire crew got blasted away when
the bombs started going off--and then they (the bombs) blew a hole in
the deck.
And all good stories have a happy ending. And an Administrative Judge
is (I think?--do I really?) retired.
Boyd.
RV-Super 6 (325 hp/IO-540)
On Thursday, November 6, 2003, at 02:55 PM, MARSHALL,STEPHANIE
(HP-Corvallis,ex1) wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1)"
> <stephanie.marshall@hp.com>
>
> This is a real story and has been verified with the author and people
> in the
> terminal at the time (see bottom of page).
>
> Dear Friends and Family,
>
> I hope that you will spare me a few minutes of your time to tell you
> about
> something that I saw on Monday, October 27.
>
> I had been attending a conference in Annapolis and was coming home on
> Sunday. As you may recall, Los Angeles International Airport was
> closed on
> Sunday, October 26, because of the fires that affected air traffic
> control.
> Accordingly, my flight, and many others, were canceled and I wound up
> spending a night in Baltimore.
>
> My story begins the next day. When I went to check in at the United
> counter
> Monday morning I saw a lot of soldiers home from Iraq. Most were very
> young
> and all had on their desert camouflage uniforms. This was as change
> from
> earlier, when they had to buy civilian clothes in Kuwait to fly home.
> It was
> a visible reminder that we are in a war. It probably was pretty close
> to
> what train terminals were like in World War II.
>
> Many people were stopping the troops to talk to them, asking them
> questions
> in the Starbucks line or just saying "Welcome Home." In addition to
> all the
> flights that had been canceled on Sunday, the weather was terrible in
> Baltimore and the flights were backed up. So, there were a lot of
> unhappy
> people in the terminal trying to get home, but nobody that I saw gave
> the
> soldiers a bad time.
>
> By the afternoon, one plane to Denver had been delayed several hours.
> United
> personnel kept asking for volunteers to give up their seats and take
> another
> flight. They weren't getting many takers. Finally, a United
> spokeswoman got
> on the PA and said this, "Folks. As you can see, there are a lot of
> soldiers
> in the waiting area. They only have 14 days of leave and we're trying
> to get
> them where they need to go without spending any more time in an
> airport then
> they have to. We sold them all tickets, knowing we would oversell the
> flight. If we can, we want to get them all on this flight. We want all
> the
> soldiers to know that we respect what you're doing, we are here for
> you and
> we love you."
>
> At that, the entire terminal of cranky, tired, travel-weary people, a
> cross-section of America, broke into sustained and heart-felt
> applause. The
> soldiers looked surprised and very modest. Most of them just looked at
> their
> boots. Many of us were wiping away tears.
>
> And, yes, people lined up to take the later flight and all the
> soldiers went
> to Denver on that flight.
>
> That little moment made me proud to be an American, and also told me
> why we
> will win this war.
>
> If you want to send my little story on to your friends and family, feel
> free. This is not some urban legend. I was there, I was part of it, I
> saw it
> happen.
>
> Will Ross
> Administrative Judge
> United States Department of Defense
>
> (Verification of story is at
> http://www.snopes.com/politics/war/onleave.asp
> )
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
________________________________ Message 38
____________________________________
Time: 07:28:15 PM PST US
Subject: RV-List: FW: Polishing Canopy and scratch removal Question
From: "David.vonLinsowe" <David.vonLinsowe@delphi.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "David.vonLinsowe"
<David.vonLinsowe@delphi.com>
(I don't think the first time I sent this it went through, so I'm
retrying...)
I should also say that when you switch to a finer grit/grade paper, your
sanding strokes need to be 90 degrees from the previous grit/grade.
Only go to the next finer grit/grade when you can no longer see any of
the scratches from the previous grit/grade.
What you're really doing is replacing scratches with finer scratches.
It's important that the coarser scratches are gone before going to a
finer grit/grade. By switching back and forth 90 degrees you can tell
if you sanded/polished enough before moving on.
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: vonLinsowe, David
Subject: FW: Polishing Canopy and scratch removal Question
From experience I had with a Pitts canopy I would highly recommend the
Micro Mesh system then finish off with Finish 2001 in the bright green
and orange bottle.
I went from sanding with 320 wet-or-dry all through Micro Mesh's steps.
It turned out nice, but the Finish 2001 really did the trick. I use the
Finish 2001 all the time on the RV canopy for cleaning and de-hazing and
I haven't found anything that works as well! It does polish, but I also
think it somehow fills small scratches so they can't be seen at all. It
makes the Plexiglas invisible.
The problem I have now is nose prints on the canopy. People can't tell
where the canopy is so they run into it with their nose...
Dave
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of P M Condon
Subject: RV-List: Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal
question ??
--> RV-List message posted by: P M Condon <pcondon@mitre.org>
What have RV-ers been using to polish canopies? I have been using Plexus
with good results as a cleaner/polisher. I need to polish out some micro
fine scratches so I am wondering what others are using to do this? At
the AOPA convention this weekend I purchased a Flitz polishing kit.....I
am not thrilled with the results on plastic. I realize that micro-mesh
and other similar companies have a product...I am wondering what else is
out there that polishes out micro scratches and all that. There are
canopies on RV's at Oshkosh that look like Todd just took them out of
the mold-there so clean and scratch free...
****************************************************************************
************
Note: The information contained in this message may be privileged and
confidential
and thus protected from disclosure. If the reader of this message is not the
intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this
message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination,
distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If
you have received this communication in error, please notify us immediately
by
replying to the message and deleting it from your computer. Thank you.
****************************************************************************
************
________________________________ Message 39
____________________________________
Time: 08:02:17 PM PST US
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: This is a real story and has been verified with the
author
and pe
ople in the terminal at the time.
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>From: Boyd Braem <bcbraem@comcast.net>
>
>Yeah, that's the same reception I got coming back from Viet Nam. Would
>you like me to drop napalm on some one?--maybe some women or a few
>kids? >
>And all good stories have a happy ending. And an Administrative Judge
>is (I think?--do I really?) retired.
>
>Boyd.
>RV-Super 6 (325 hp/IO-540)
Take a chill Boyd, if this is a true story more power to the people who
showed their appreciation and a pat on the back for the boys (yes, most are
still boys acting as men) in uniform.
Sorry gang, but I couldn't sit on this. Yes, I still have my draft card
from the Vietnam era.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
From Beethoven to the Rolling Stones, your favorite music is always playing
on MSN Radio Plus. No ads, no talk. Trial month FREE!
________________________________ Message 40
____________________________________
Time: 08:19:41 PM PST US
From: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
Subject: RE: RV-List: This is a real story and has been verified with the
author
and pe ople in the terminal at the time.
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
I had to turn mine in to the Draft Board when I was drafted back in 64.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dana Overall
Subject: Re: RV-List: This is a real story and has been verified with
the author and pe ople in the terminal at the time.
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Take a chill Boyd, if this is a true story more power to the people who
showed their appreciation and a pat on the back for the boys (yes, most
are
still boys acting as men) in uniform.
Sorry gang, but I couldn't sit on this. Yes, I still have my draft card
from the Vietnam era.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
From Beethoven to the Rolling Stones, your favorite music is always
playing
on MSN Radio Plus. No ads, no talk. Trial month FREE!
________________________________ Message 41
____________________________________
Time: 08:30:23 PM PST US
From: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Why do we use VariPrime/ Sherwin williams?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
I second Charlie's comments and would add that it is easy to spray. It's
been on the inside of my 4 for 6 years and looks like the day it was
painted. I know the origninal poster, Larry, was talking about a primer
which would be top-coated on the exterior. A good feature of the Super
Koropon is that it does not require top coating when used on the interior
structure.
The list of aerospace vehicles that are interior primed with DeSoto Super
Koropon is long including many airlines, the space shuttle, Gulfstreams
etc.
Dick Sipp
RV 4 N250DS
RV10 N110DV
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Why do we use VariPrime/ Sherwin williams?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>
> Larry,
> DP40LF does not contain strontium chromate. If it's an automotive product,
& is not intended for use on aircraft aluminum. Strontium chromate is the
replacement for Zinc chromate used in Aerospace Mil Spec epoxy primers. I
know that PPG makes aircraft refinishing products. DeSoto is their Aviation
Division. DeSoto Desoprime HS is one product which is specifically
formulated for use on aluminium.
>
>
http://www.ppg.com/prc-desoto/main.asp?img=coat&menuID=2&contLvl=com&catID=2
&prodLvl=prime&prodID=1&pdfID=4
>
> http://www.ppg.com/prc-desoto/pdf/desophs.pdf
>
> Automotive epoxy primers are formulated for use on steel. These epoxy
primers are not intended for use on aluminum. Their formulation does not
offer any special ingredients to prevent corrosion.
>
> The link below lists all the aviation primers available through PPG's
DeSoto division.
>
>
http://www.ppg.com/prc-desoto/main.asp?img=coat&menuID=2&contLvl=com&catID=2
&prodLvl=prime&prodID=1
>
> DeSoto's Super Koropon is another excellent product for aircarft use. You
can use anything you want on your aircraft. However, why not use a product
specifically designed for aircraft aluminum? Epoxy primers are not cheap, so
why not get the best product for the job?
>
> Charlie Kuss
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming"
<lhelming@sigecom.net>
> >
> >That is why I used 2-part epoxy DP40LF. Also, when you go to do the
finish
> >painting, the DP48LF is a good primer for the PPG Concept paint. Great
> >stuff. And by the way, the DP40/48LF primer can be thinned to make it
flow
> >out nice and smooth. Ask your PPG paint supplier about it. Great primer
> >but you need a air supply to protect yourself or work outside where there
is
> >plenty of fresh air. And it does not dry instantly like some other
primers.
> >Painting in the fall is a good time due to bugs being less common with
> >outside painting. However, I suggest you setup an inside paint booth
large
> >enough to do a detached wing and later the fuselage. That is the best
way
> >to go when you think about it seriously IMO.
> >
> >Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
> >On Finish Kit and painting things Viper Race Yellow over DP48LP primer
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: <DWENSING@aol.com>
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Why do we use VariPrime/ Sherwin williams?
> >
> >
> >> --> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
> >>
> >> In a message dated 11/1/03 11:34:22 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> >> top_gun_toronto@yahoo.ca writes:
> >>
> >>
> >> > For those following our steps... the only true sure way is to Anodize
or
> >> > Epoxy paint. Anything else is a guess against mother nature.
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >> Sorry, but that is not quite true. There are other paint systems that
will
> >> give equal or better corrosion protection versus epoxy. The one thing
> >epoxy does
> >> provide is chemical resistance. i.e. gasoline and oil
> >> Dale Ensing
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________ Message 42
____________________________________
Time: 08:38:42 PM PST US
From: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
Subject: RV-List: Latest AC 43-13?
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
I'm trying to ensure that I have the latest copy of AC 43-13 (Acceptable
Methods), in electronic form, and I seem to be in Reference Number Hell.
Can
someone here play Virgil and guide me out of it?
I have three separate references.
1. The FAA web site carries AC 43-13-1B, which they annotate with
"September
8, 1998 (With Change 1 Incorporated)."
2. FAA AC 43-16A, dated February, 2002, announces Change 1 to AC 43-13-1B.
3. Jeppesen carries, in printed form, what they refer to as "AC-43.13-1B/2A
with Change 1."
Are 1 and 2 the same document, with AC 43-16A just being a tad late in
announcing it?
This AC 43-13-2A is very confusing. It's referred to in many places on the
FAA
web site, but I can't find the actual document. Also, my old copy of the
Jeppesen book (AC 43.13-1A and AC 43.13-2A combined) appears to be a single
document, i.e. there's only one table of contents with no distinction
between
1A and 2A, even though they have different titles ("Acceptable Methods..."
and
"Aircraft Alterations"). Was 2A ever actually a separate document? Did 1B
supercede both 1A and 2A?
Thanks,
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
-6 wings
DO NOT ARCHIVE
________________________________ Message 43
____________________________________
Time: 08:47:07 PM PST US
From: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: LED's
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
>Trouble found. somebody missed a resistor. Fixed.........
>These things are brighter than incandescents........
Was that before or after the beer??
Do not archive
________________________________ Message 44
____________________________________
Time: 08:51:18 PM PST US
From: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: This is a real story and has been verified with the
author
and pe ople in the terminal at the time.
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
>From: Boyd Braem <bcbraem@comcast.net>
>
>Yeah, that's the same reception I got coming back from Viet Nam. Would
>>you like me to drop napalm on some one?--maybe some women or a few
>>kids? >
>>And all good stories have a happy ending. And an Administrative Judge
>>is (I think?--do I really?) retired.
>Take a chill Boyd, if this is a true story more power to the people who
>showed their appreciation and a pat on the back for the boys (yes, most
are
>still boys acting as men) in uniform.
>Sorry gang, but I couldn't sit on this. Yes, I still have my draft
card
>from the Vietnam era.
OK: NOBODY SAY A THING.
Good.
And now, let's get back to building.
Michael
Oh, yeah. Do not archive stuff like this, gents.
________________________________ Message 45
____________________________________
Time: 09:01:02 PM PST US
Subject: RV-List: 21 years of RV-Ator
From: smoothweasel@juno.com
--> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com
I have "The 18 Years Of RV-Ator" and would like to know
if the new book is an addition to the old one or if it has all new
material?
do not archive
Joel "Weasel" Graber
RV-4 finishing
Brooksville MS
________________________________ Message 46
____________________________________
Time: 09:07:37 PM PST US
From: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: This is a real story and has been verified with the
author
and pe ople in the terminal at the time.
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
I just went into AF ROTC but unlike a ex-pres, I went to the meetings. :-)
Tom "GummiBear" Gummo
Wild Weasel #1753
http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
Subject: RE: RV-List: This is a real story and has been verified with the
author and pe ople in the terminal at the time.
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
>
> I had to turn mine in to the Draft Board when I was drafted back in 64.
>
> Bruce
> www.glasair.org
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dana Overall
> To: rv-list@matronics.com.ople.in.the.terminal.at.the.time
> Subject: Re: RV-List: This is a real story and has been verified with
> the author and pe ople in the terminal at the time.
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
>
> Take a chill Boyd, if this is a true story more power to the people who
> showed their appreciation and a pat on the back for the boys (yes, most
> are
> still boys acting as men) in uniform.
>
> Sorry gang, but I couldn't sit on this. Yes, I still have my draft card
>
> from the Vietnam era.
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
> Finish kit
> Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
> do not archive
>
> From Beethoven to the Rolling Stones, your favorite music is always
> playing
> on MSN Radio Plus. No ads, no talk. Trial month FREE!
>
>
________________________________ Message 47
____________________________________
Time: 09:14:39 PM PST US
From: "Rob W M Shipley" <rob@robsglass.com>
Subject: RV-List: SS tape
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" <rob@robsglass.com>
Stein wrote
"I will be selling it on my website starting next week, and the price will
be
$.50 cents per foot. The stainless tape is 3" with the heavy duty Acrylic
adhesive, exactly what works well on the leading edge of the -4,6,7, & 8
flaps.
Cheers, Stein Bruch, http://www.steinair.com "
Is this not likely to be of use to 9 builders?
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
RV9A N919RV (res) Fuselage
________________________________ Message 48
____________________________________
Time: 09:19:43 PM PST US
From: Gil Alexander <gilalex@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Why do we use VariPrime/ Sherwin williams?
--> RV-List message posted by: Gil Alexander <gilalex@earthlink.net>
Larry,
The same PPG paint dealer should be able to sell you DP70
epoxy primer, which IS MIL-Spec. qualified (the MIL-P-23377 spec) and does
contain strontium chromate for Alum. protection.... and doesn't need a top
coat....
gil in Tucson
At 08:53 PM 11/6/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>
>Larry,
>DP40LF does not contain strontium chromate. If it's an automotive product,
>& is not intended for use on aircraft aluminum. Strontium chromate is the
>replacement for Zinc chromate used in Aerospace Mil Spec epoxy primers. I
>know that PPG makes aircraft refinishing products. DeSoto is their
>Aviation Division. DeSoto Desoprime HS is one product which is
>specifically formulated for use on aluminium.
>
>http://www.ppg.com/prc-desoto/main.asp?img=coat&menuID=2&contLvl=com&catID2&prodLvl=prime&prodID=1&pdfID=4
>
>http://www.ppg.com/prc-desoto/pdf/desophs.pdf
>
> Automotive epoxy primers are formulated for use on steel. These epoxy
> primers are not intended for use on aluminum. Their formulation does not
> offer any special ingredients to prevent corrosion.
>
>The link below lists all the aviation primers available through PPG's
>DeSoto division.
>
>http://www.ppg.com/prc-desoto/main.asp?img=coat&menuID=2&contLvl=com&catID2&prodLvl=prime&prodID=1
>
>DeSoto's Super Koropon is another excellent product for aircarft use. You
>can use anything you want on your aircraft. However, why not use a product
>specifically designed for aircraft aluminum? Epoxy primers are not cheap,
>so why not get the best product for the job?
>
>Charlie Kuss
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming"
<lhelming@sigecom.net>
> >
> >That is why I used 2-part epoxy DP40LF. Also, when you go to do the
finish
> >painting, the DP48LF is a good primer for the PPG Concept paint. Great
> >stuff. And by the way, the DP40/48LF primer can be thinned to make it
flow
> >out nice and smooth. Ask your PPG paint supplier about it. Great primer
> >but you need a air supply to protect yourself or work outside where there
is
> >plenty of fresh air. And it does not dry instantly like some other
primers.
> >Painting in the fall is a good time due to bugs being less common with
> >outside painting. However, I suggest you setup an inside paint booth
large
> >enough to do a detached wing and later the fuselage. That is the best
way
> >to go when you think about it seriously IMO.
> >
> >Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
> >On Finish Kit and painting things Viper Race Yellow over DP48LP primer
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: <DWENSING@aol.com>
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Why do we use VariPrime/ Sherwin williams?
> >
> >
> >> --> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
> >>
> >> In a message dated 11/1/03 11:34:22 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> >> top_gun_toronto@yahoo.ca writes:
> >>
> >>
> >> > For those following our steps... the only true sure way is to Anodize
or
> >> > Epoxy paint. Anything else is a guess against mother nature.
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >> Sorry, but that is not quite true. There are other paint systems that
will
> >> give equal or better corrosion protection versus epoxy. The one thing
> >epoxy does
> >> provide is chemical resistance. i.e. gasoline and oil
> >> Dale Ensing
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
RV-6A, #20701 .. fitting out firewall...
77 Tiger N28478 at 57AZ
________________________________ Message 49
____________________________________
Time: 10:05:26 PM PST US
From: WMPALM@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: SoCAL RV RendezVous is GO!!!
--> RV-List message posted by: WMPALM@aol.com
RV Enthusiasts,
The weather forecast for this Saturday, Nov. 8, is looking fine for Cable
Airport (Upland, CA), and our SoCAL RV RendezVous is GO!!! In fact, the
weather
forecast looks good from San Luis Obispo in the north to all points east and
south. We would expect a lot of fly-ins from Arizona, Southern Nevada, and
Southern California! We are expecting weather similar to last Saturday - -
Please see Photos 25 to 31 in our group's photo album at
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/SoCAL-RVlist/lst. Last Saturday was
a=20very pleasant,
super-visibility day!
Once Again: Our SoCAL RV RendezVous "get-together" is an opportunity for RV
enthusiasts (flyers, builders, potential builders, friends, and family) to
enjoy RV camaraderie, gawk at some nice RVs, swap stories, SWAP EXTRA RV
PARTS,
BUY A RENDEZVOUS T-SHIRT, have a little something to eat and drink, enjoy
the
sunshine, etc., etc. - - Just a straightforward, informal "good time" for
all!
We'll be ready for arrivals starting at 9 am, and the RendezVous goes
until=204
pm.
Here are the details:
EVENT: SoCAL RV RendezVous
DATE: Saturday, Nov. 8, 2003
TIME: 9am to 4pm
LOCATION: Cable Airport (KCCB), Upland, CA (http://www.cableairport.com)
Cable Airport's manger, Chuck Barnett, is graciously allowing us to use the
old north-south crosswind runway as the site of our fly-in. The old
runway=20is
now a taxiway located at the northwest corner of the airport just north of
the
fuel pit and west of the north hangars.
REGISTRATION:
When you arrive, please sign-in at our registration table and pick-up your
badge. If you already have an EAA badge, you are encouraged to wear it as
well.
RV FLYERS:
Our SoCAL RV RendezVous is a great opportunity for you to meet your fellow
RV
flyers/builders, enjoy some great RV camaraderie, and share your RV
experiences and knowledge. Since this is an RV-focused "get together,"
everyone
attending will be an enthusiastic "RVer" in some way! Many RV builders,
potential
builders, and other RV enthusiasts will be attending the RendezVous, and we
encourage you to encourage them! We're sure that they will be very
interested
in
your building experiences and will enjoy hearing about your RV flying.
Note: If you decide that you want to give a few builders/enthusiasts a short
ride, that would be great, but we want to emphasize that giving rides is
completely optional on your part. You are certainly not obligated to do so.
Our
main goal is to have you fly-in, show-off your RV, share your building and
flight experiences, and Have Fun! Only offer a short ride if you happen
to=20feel
like it! If not, don't worry about it! Just relax and Have Fun with your
fellow "RVers!"
RV BUILDERS, POTENTIAL BUILDERS, and RV ENTHUSIASTS:
Note that this "get together" will be a particularly great opportunity for
RV
builders, and potential builders/enthusiasts, to meet experienced RV
builders/flyers and see their beautiful aircraft both in-flight and at the
RV parking
area. You will be able to ask questions and gain valuable knowledge
concerning the RV building process, the installation and checkout of various
aircraft
systems, and RV performance and flight characteristics. A few RV flyers may
offer some lucky builders/enthusiasts a short encouragement/motivation ride,
but
this opportunity is strictly at the discretion of the individual RV
flyers/owners. We would expect builders/enthusiasts to be courteous and not
solicit
any of the RV flyers/owners for a ride - - Please wait to be asked. Many RV
flyers will prefer to just sit, relax, and talk rather than give rides.
Builders interested in rides should display their Van's builder's number and
RV model under construction on their registration badge and have a pilot's
license. Potential builders may also be lucky enough to fly - - Please
note "RV
Builder???" on your badge and have your pilot's license handy. Also,
"Significant Others" (the real decision-makers!) may be able to get a
ride.
If
offered a flight, builders and potential builders should offer to help pay
for
avgas.
FLY-IN PROCEDURES:
Cable Airport is a family-owned, RV-friendly airport with easy VFR access
from the northwest and northeast (north of Ontario) as well as relatively
easy
access from the south and southwest past Corona and west of the Chino and
Brackett Airports. Be sure to contact the Chino and Brackett towers for
permission
to fly through their airspace if you so chose. Please comply with all
airspace restrictions and steer-clear of Ontario's airspace unless you're
talking
to
ATC. We definitely want to have a violation-free day and maintain good
relations with all air traffic control facilities/personnel.
Note: A moving map GPS with airspace boundary depiction is highly
recommended.
SoCAL airspace permits good VFR access, but you do need to know exactly
where
and how high you are relative to controlled airspace. Also, please keep a
wary eye out for airborne traffic. The traffic is not as thick as popularly
rumored, but SoCAL is a nice place to fly for all, and many RVs will be
flying
into Cable as well.
Cable is an uncontrolled airport but does have published recommended VFR
arrival and departure procedures which you should review (see Cable's
website and
your flight guide). Also, please be neighbor-friendly by keeping noise
down.
VFR arrival and departure procedures for Cable airport can be found at
http://www.cableairport.com/images/vfr24.gif for runway 24 (most likely
runway with
prevailing winds from the west) and at
http://www.cableairport.com/images/vfr6.gif for runway 6.
Please note that the Cable traffic pattern is left turns only - - No
straight-ins or outs! No formation takeoffs, No buzz jobs, No fooling
around!
Flybys
are restricted to pattern altitude, and flyby aircraft must yield to any
aircraft in the standard traffic pattern. Be particularly watchful for
crosswind
approach traffic!
PLEASE NO LOW FLYBYS!
All FARs must be observed. An FAA representative who is also building an RV
will be on the airport and could potentially issue violations for unsafe
actions. If you wish to do a flyby, please remain at pattern altitude and
watch
carefully for traffic.
After landing, you will exit off the runway to the NORTH side of the runway
then taxi WEST. As you taxi westbound, please look for our RV RendezVous
taxi
and parking guides - - they'll have vests, wands, etc. and will help direct
you to the next available parking spot.
You might want to bring your own wheel chocks as we will be parking RVs on
the old crosswind runway/taxiway that has a slight slope. We will have
wooden
chocks available if you forget yours! Non-RV aircraft will be parked
parallel
to and facing the active runway near the RV parking. Tie-down chains are
available for those aircraft parking along the runway.
FORMATION FLYING:
If you are interested in formation flying (who isn't?), please contact Gary
Sobek for further information and coordination: RV6_Flyer@hotmail.com. You
must be a qualified, experienced RV formation flyer and comply with all
Cable
Airport flight procedures/restrictions as well as FAA regulations.
WEATHER ALTERNATES:
In the unlikely event that Cable Airport is not sunny and clear on the
morning of Nov. 1 as usual, our VFR weather alternates are: #1 Agua Dulce
Airpark
(L70) and #2: Apple Valley (KAPV). Both Agua Dulce and Apple Valley are
well
equipped with ramp space, food, and avgas to handle lots of fly-ins.
If Cable is IFR, Paul and Victoria Rosales (cell 661 433-6056) will be at
Agua Dulce to greet arrivals there. Paul and Victoria will be in contact
with
the RendezVous crew at Cable to get the latest weather information. We
don't
plan to have anyone stationed at Apple Valley, but Paul and Victoria will
fly
there if Agua Dulce is socked in (which only happens "once in a blue
moon!").
NOTE: All drive-ins should proceed to Cable Airport, because we will have
Cable-stationed RVs on-hand regardless of weather.
DRIVE-IN DIRECTIONS:
Ground-bound RV enthusiasts, particularly RV builders and potential
builders,
are encouraged to attend! Cable Airport is located north of the I-10
freeway
in Upland, CA. Take I-10's Central Avenue exit NORTH past Montclair
Plaza.
At the end of Central Ave. (1.3 miles from I-10) turn RIGHT (EAST) on
Foothill
Blvd. (Historic Route 66). (There's a traffic light there.) Travel EAST on
Foothill to the next traffic light. Turn LEFT (NORTH) at the light onto
Benson Ave. (There's a "76" Gasoline/Car Wash Plaza on the left, and on the
right
you'll see a Carl's Jr. and an "Old-Style" McDonald's across the
intersection.)
Continue NORTH on Benson Ave. past the Lowe's on your left and PAST the main
entrance to Cable Airport at the 13TH Street (first) traffic light.
Continue
PAST the second traffic light and you should see a Fire Station on the
right.
After you pass the Fire Station (the runway will be on your left), you will
make a LEFT (WEST) turn at the next opportunity (Howard Access Road) onto
Cable
Airport.
There is a sign that says "Holliday Rock Quarry" at this entrance. Drive
through the gate onto the airport. Continue WEST via the taxiway between
the
hangars and keep your speed down to 5 mph or less.
AIRCRAFT HAVE THE RIGHT OF WAY!
Give way to aircraft by pulling over to the right and stopping until the
aircraft passes. Also, be careful to slow down before any open hangar to
make
sure that aircraft, people, or vehicles are not exiting the hangar. At the
end
of the row of hangars, you will be directed to parking. Look for the
SoCAL=20RV
signs and our RendezVous parking guides.
OVERNIGHT STAY:
If you are flying in from a distance and plan to stay Friday and/or Saturday
night, we would recommend the Western Inn located at 1191 East Foothill
Blvd.,
Upland, CA approximately 4 to 5 miles from Cable. Their web address is
http://www.venquest.com/westerninnupland. The Western Inn is clean and
accessible
with restaurants nearby. The Western Inn has a "Cable Airport" discount of
$59 for a single king or two queen beds and $69-$79 for more upscale
accommodations. These are excellent prices for the Southern California
area.
Note:
Cable Airport's management has confirmed Western Inn's low $59 rate for
either
call-in or internet reservations - - make sure to ask for the "Cable
Airport"
discount!
The Western Inn's reservation phone number is 800-726-2955 (Internet Hotel
Hotline), and their local number is 909-949-4800. Reservations can also
be=20made
directly through Western Inn's website. The Western Inn does not have Cable
Airport pickup, but our SoCAL group might be able to provide complimentary
ground transportation for you. Please contact Bill Palmer at wmpalm@aol.com
as
soon as possible to request complimentary transportation between Cable
Airport
and the Western Inn. Also, there are two taxi companies serving the area:
Yellow Cab, 909-622-1313, and Dell Cab, 800-340-8294.
FOOD and DRINK:
For morning arrivals, we will have FREE donuts, rolls, juice, and coffee.
For lunch, the Cable EAA Chapter will have their food booth with reasonably
priced food and drink. Cable also has an excellent airport restaurant,
Maniac
Mike's Caf=E9, for more "gourmet" fare at reasonable prices. We will have a
shuttle van to take people to the south side of the airport where Maniac
Mike's
Caf=E9 is located.
Please DO NOT walk across the runway but please DO use our shuttle van.
SHELTER, SEATING, SWAPS, AND OTHER STUFF:
Shade and seating will be under the new 60 X 60 shade hangar that is used as
an aircraft wash rack. We will have the food booth, Clearair Tools tool
demo
area, and an area to SELL/SWAP ANY OF YOUR RV-RELATED PARTS.
RENDEZVOUS T-SHIRTS!!!
We will also have a TEE SHIRT vendor on site to sell custom 2003 SoCAL RV
RendezVous shirts - - Please see Photos 27 and 28 in our photo album. THE
T-SHIRTS ARE VERY NICE!!! LOOKIN' GOOD!!!
Note: You might want to bring some suntan lotion, or sunscreen, if you plan
to do a lot of gawking at the RVs out on the ramp!
SAFETY AND SECURITY:
Our Safety and Security Officer is Gary Hart. In case of any problems, Gary
will be able to contact local law enforcement, the local fire department,
healthcare, etc.
Note: Gary Hart has the "Final Word" with respect to RendezVous safety! All
RendezVous participants are expected to follow Gary's guidance to ensure a
Safe, Good Time!
Important: We have no "event" insurance, since this is an informal "get
together" for RV folks only and is not a "public" fly-in, so you're
self-insured.
All flying and ground operations are at your own risk/insurance. Although
Gary, and other SoCAL volunteers, will be available to help you, your safety
and
security is ultimately your own responsibility!
QUESTIONS:
If you have any questions, please contact Bill Palmer at wmpalm@aol.com, and
we'll try to provide an answer, or at least an opinion! Note: Our responses
are at your own risk!
SUMMARY:
No Judging, No Trophies, No Schedule, No Fees, No Hassles - - Just Mutual RV
Admiration and FUN!
We'll look forward to seeing you on Saturday, Nov.8 at Cable Airport!!! RVs
FOREVER!!!
Best Regards,
Gary Sobek
SoCAL RV RendezVous Chairman
EAA Technical Counselor, AB DAR-elect
RV-6 N157GS
Bill Palmer
RendezVous Marketing and Communications Officer
RV-8A QB In-Progress
________________________________ Message 50
____________________________________
Time: 10:27:41 PM PST US
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: SS tape
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Before everyone else starts going....I'll admit that the UHMW is probably
the better way to go here, but I have the SS on my flying -6 and it
looks/works just fine.
As an aside, to keep everyone happy, I'll be stocking both.
3" UHMW Tape (cheaper than Van's, Mouser & McMaster)
3" SS tape (priced as below).
Check back next week on the website for both.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
http://www.steinair.com
Do not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rob W M Shipley
Subject: RV-List: SS tape
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" <rob@robsglass.com>
Stein wrote
"I will be selling it on my website starting next week, and the price will
be
$.50 cents per foot. The stainless tape is 3" with the heavy duty Acrylic
adhesive, exactly what works well on the leading edge of the -4,6,7, & 8
flaps.
Cheers, Stein Bruch, http://www.steinair.com "
Is this not likely to be of use to 9 builders?
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
RV9A N919RV (res) Fuselage
________________________________ Message 51
____________________________________
Time: 10:59:32 PM PST US
From: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cheap Sectionals????
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
Maybe they know something you don't??? Maybe they don't pay $15 an hour
for such simple jobs!
hal
do not archive
At 11:09 AM 11/5/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company"
><winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
>
>Just a few words about the chart business.
>
>All chart dealers buy sectionals from FAA for $4.80 each. That includes
us,
>Sporty's (the largest chart dealer) Spruce, and everyone else. So, even at
>full retail ($8) there is not a lot of margin.
>
>The dream, of course is that subscribers would be subscribing to large
>amounts of charts, cause it doesn't take any more time to package 10 then
it
>does for just one. But that's not typically how it works out. About a
>third to half of our subscribers get just a single item. And of those who
>do get multiple charts, chances are the renewal dates are spread throughout
>the year, making any given shipment still for just 1-2 items.
>
>Bottom line is that it is hard enough to maintain a viable business selling
>at full retail. I can't imagine how anyone can continue to do it as low as
>$5.99. $1.19 margin profit per chart minus about 25 cents for credit card
>fees and another 15-20 for envelopes and receipts is .79 cents. Between
>credit card processing, pulling, packing, receipt making, and record
keeping
>it takes about 7-8 minutes to process an order (and thats when you get good
>at it) .85 cents times 8 per hour = $6.32 per hour. And thats not
>including all the others tasks you do for free (inventory maintenance,
>ordering, obsolete returns, accounting, advertising, tracking down expired
>credit cards, special customer service, etc.......) Someone is working
>pretty cheap.
>
>We sell sectionals for $7.65 which just covers the cost of $15 per hour
>salary for the guys who do the packing. Spruce and Sporty's, the two
>largest volume dealers sell for the full $8. They've been around for
>awhile, as have we. So if we can't make money on it, why do we bother?
For
>us, (Sporty's and Spruce too) its a good way to keep in touch with our
>customers. This way, if we keep a relationship going, maybe you'll buy
>something else from us once in a while; ...things that do actually help pay
>the rent.
>
>But for the guy's to whom charts are their primary business? I've just got
>to scratch my head and wonder. It can't be much more than the dream that's
>keeping them alive.
>
>Andy
>Builder's Bookstore
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | more painting tips |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
SNIP The key word, "pushing". The fan was pushing outside air through the 2
furnace filters to remove dust. Then the over spray air was cleaned up by
the exit filters which were ducted to the side door of the garage. The fan
was the floor mount type (not a box fan) has 3 power settings and moves
LARGE amounts of air. I belive all the ones that cost about 45~50 bucks and
can be purchased at Target and like stores are the same type. Oh and you
will need a LOT of tape and it must be taped inside and out, to make sure
it wont come apart later. Once the over spray gets on everything it makes
it very difficult to tape up again.
At 03:54 PM 11/5/03 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
>
>>I had a fan pushing air in through 2 furnace filters.....
>
>I assume your fan was a sealed motor type. Do you have a source? How big
>was it to be effective? An open or Exposed motor can cause a KABOOM to
>occur with flammable paint fumes as the brushes are hanging out in the
>open, subject to producing sparks. Which means you don't want to use
>your K-Mart box fan. SNIP
*********************************
I saw this tip years ago. Take your cheap box fan outside. Plug the fan into
a 50' cord, turn the fan on. After making sure the other end is unplugged, pour
a quart of gasoline on the fan and motor. Go plug the other end into the wall
outlet. If there is a giant fireball, don't use that fan. Continue testing
until you find an explosion proof fan.
Seriously though, many box fans work just fine for this. The key is to keep the
air moving, not to move giant amounts. You just want enough flow to move the
overspray out. And making a totally airtight spray box isn't really necessary
for 95% of us who could care less about Oshkosh trophies. You can get a very
nice paint job anyway. It's more important how you apply the paint than whether
an occasional dust particle gets in it.
As I implied above, as far as dust filters go... I didn't use any. None whatsoever.
But I live in the country and have no nearby cars to get overspray on.
Filtering the air coming into the paint booth isn't as necessary as some might
lead you to believe, just screen out the bugs. I mean, seriously, is your paint
job going to be dust free because you spent 3 hours setting up a filtration
system? I doubt it.
To eliminate most dirt in your paint:
1) vacuum the floor periodically to get rid of the dried overspray, dirt, etc (wetting
the floor works too... until it dries!)
2) use a tack rag before spraying
3) rinse your spray gun to get out any lint left from cleaning/wiping
4) a bunch of hair, dandruff, lint comes off of you and your clothes... wear disp.
tyvek coveralls if you can.
Just get out there and paint!
Vince
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
SNIP What is the reason for the fittings where the vents go through the floor
anyway? Why not just run the line through a bushing or grommet in a
hole in the floor? SNIP
I used a grommet through the floor of my RV-4. Worked fine. The 1/4 vent line
was bent to face forward, similar to what the fitting would do. Drill a small
hole in the back of the vent line in case of ice or insect blockage.
Mine looked nicer than the big fitting. Seal the grommet with some ProSeal to
prevent small exhaust gas fume source into the cockpit.
Vince
(verbose today, aren't I?)
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Re: Why can one buy powdered Alodine |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Dean,
I went with Iridite simply because their distributor was in Florida. The nearest
powdered Alodine distributor is in Georgia. We get ours from Allied Plating
Supplies
5000 E. 10th Court
Hialeah, Florida.
(305) 681-8531
Check Heinkel's and MacDirmid's web sites to find your local distributor.
http://www.macindustrialproducts.com/sales.html
http://www.hstna.com/index.cfm?location=10&subsection=5
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon@msn.com>
>
>I have read this thread with interest. I have heard that Alodine/Iridite is
>available as a powder, but I have been unable to locate a source. Any leads
>(especially in the East) would be appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Dean Pichon
>
>
>>From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Brushing on Iridite 14-2 Question
>>Date: Thu, 06 Nov 2003 21:07:52 -0500
>>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>>
>>Dave,
>> Why do you wish to brush the Iridite on? I've used Iridite 14-2
>>extensively on my project. It's great stuff. If you purchase it in powder
>>form, it 's cheap enough to dip every part. I've dip tank treated every
>>part on my 8A, including the main longerons, my one piece wing main skins
>>(9' 2 5/8" long) & the fuselage tail cone skins.
>> Buying Alodine or Iridite in liquid form is WAY to expensive. Purchased
>>in powder form, it works out to under $2 per gallon. With 40 gallons, you
>>can treat the largest parts of your project and have enough to do all the
>>parts. The dipping method yields the best results with the least work. I
>>have seen the same info you refer to, but like you, could find no
>>additional info. Sorry! :-(
>>Charlie Kuss
>>
>>
>> >--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Smith <dave@rv10project.net>
>> >
>> >Okay, I've been checking into Iridite 14-2 and found a local distributor
>> >here in Spokane. When we talked about different application methods, he
>> >mentioned that McDermid makes some kind of kit to go with it to make it
>> >'brushable', although he was short on details. Upon further searching
>> >of the archives and the net, I ran across a reference to an additive
>> >that you put into 14-2 to make it brushable (sorry, can't remember the
>> >name).
>> >
>> >Do folks use 14-2 as is mixed, or are they putting in this additive for
>> >when they want to brush/spray the solution?
>> >
>> >Second question: the sales guy suggested taking the parts to a local
>> >shop that specializes in dipping. He said that he knew business had
>> >been slow for them, so they would probably cut a good deal. Has anybody
>> >else used a shop like this? If so, how much did it cost you?
>> >--
>> >
>> >Dave
>> >http://www.rv10project.net
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>Is your computer infected with a virus? Find out with a FREE computer virus
>scan from McAfee. Take the FreeScan now!
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Brushing on Iridite 14-2 Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Dave,
I visited MacDirmid's web site last night. You have to "sign up" to get into
the useful areas of the site. I got the documentation on that "brush on" kit
you referred to. It's simply 4 oz of powdered Iridite and 16 oz of powdered Isoprep
188 deoxidizer. The Isoprep is not added to the Iridite. Isoprep is simply
the MacDirmid trade name for their version of AlumiPrep 33 (Heinkel Corp)
You use the Isoprep to clean the aluminum BEFORE you treat it with the Iridite.
According to their directions, no special additives are needed. I've downloaded
the tech info on Iridite 14-2 and the Brush On Kit from their web site. (Which
is NOT user friendly) I'll be happy to email these documents off list, to
anyone who wants them.
I'm unclear on what you mean by "recovering" the Iridite? I store my Iridite
in 5 gallon paint pails after I've converted it to a liquid. I simply pour the
pails into whatever size & shape dip tank I need to do the job. Alodine and
Iridite are photochemically reactive. Don't use these products out in the sun.
Exposure to sunlight ruins the chemicals. Properly stored, the liquid will stay
fresh for 18 months.
Local RV-9A builder Peter Laurence stored his Iridite in a 5 gallon pail left on
his porch. To his dismay, he discovered that the pails are not completely opaque.
Since the pail was exposed to the sun during the late afternoon, 5 gallons
of Iridite was ruined after sitting for 2 months on the porch. Keep this stuff
in the shade. I store mine under the work bench at the rear of my shop, away
from the doors.
To transfer the Iridite back to the pails, I've found using an aquarium pump
works very well. I transfer the AlumiPrep the same way. Wear gloves while doing
this. I have photos I can email you of this, if you like.
AlumiPrep and Isoprep will keep for a long time. I've got some that's over 4 years
old. I'm still using it and it still works quite well.
FYI, get your email. I received a post that my email sent directly to your email
address bounced. Your account was over it's allotted limit. You need to fix
this before I can send you any "off list" photos or documents.
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Smith <dave@rv10project.net>
>
>Charlie, I guess my thinking is that with the limited lifespan (re-use)
>that I'd be spending a lot of time recovering the powder (not sure how
>that's done yet). I've read msgs that talked about using an air stone
>(aquarium type) to keep the solution good, but does that really work? I
>don't mind building a dip tank so much, as having to continually recover
>& re-mix the solution. (Perhaps recovery is so simple I'm dreading it
>for no reason, dunno).
>
>I'm planning to hook up with the local EAA Chapter at the meeting in a
>week, and hope to find somebody that will either sell a couple of
>pounds, or wants to split some, since I've heard that a 10 lb tin goes a
>LONG way. Iridite sounds like the way to go (for me, anyways) vs. the
>liquid options. If I can keep the solution in the dip tank workable, it
>would be perfect.
>
>Charlie Kuss wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>>
>>Dave,
>> Why do you wish to brush the Iridite on? I've used Iridite 14-2 extensively
on my project. It's great stuff. If you purchase it in powder form, it 's cheap
enough to dip every part. I've dip tank treated every part on my 8A, including
the main longerons, my one piece wing main skins (9' 2 5/8" long) & the fuselage
tail cone skins.
>> Buying Alodine or Iridite in liquid form is WAY to expensive. Purchased in powder
form, it works out to under $2 per gallon. With 40 gallons, you can treat
the largest parts of your project and have enough to do all the parts. The dipping
method yields the best results with the least work. I have seen the same
info you refer to, but like you, could find no additional info. Sorry! :-(
>>Charlie Kuss
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Smith <dave@rv10project.net>
>>>
>>>Okay, I've been checking into Iridite 14-2 and found a local distributor
>>>here in Spokane. When we talked about different application methods, he
>>>mentioned that McDermid makes some kind of kit to go with it to make it
>>>'brushable', although he was short on details. Upon further searching
>>>of the archives and the net, I ran across a reference to an additive
>>>that you put into 14-2 to make it brushable (sorry, can't remember the
>>>name).
>>>
>>>Do folks use 14-2 as is mixed, or are they putting in this additive for
>>>when they want to brush/spray the solution?
>>>
>>>Second question: the sales guy suggested taking the parts to a local
>>>shop that specializes in dipping. He said that he knew business had
>>>been slow for them, so they would probably cut a good deal. Has anybody
>>>else used a shop like this? If so, how much did it cost you?
>>>--
>>>
>>>Dave
>>>http://www.rv10project.net
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>--
>
>Dave
>http://www.rv10project.net
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: VS rib to spar gap |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Eastham <eastham@netapp.com>
Thanks to all for the many replies. I successfully riveted the VS
skeleton yesterday, without any gaps, and thought I would share what
worked for posterity and the archives...
1. (dumb one) After a few initial failures, I needed to flatten out
the flanges to remove the puckering around the rivet holes. If this
is not done you will of course get a gap next time around. Depending
on the severity I used hand seamers or taps with a ballpeen hammer.
2. Gus had a good idea for squeezing, which is to hold the material
together with a free hand. I actually try to keep both hands on the
squeezer since I'm afraid of it slipping and damaging something, but
usually you can find a spare finger or two to press the material
together. This was all the clamping I needed for the squeezer, since
you can hold it together much closer to the hole than a clamp could.
3. Even if you can't get a clamp very close to the rivet it's still
better than some distant (1" or more away) clecos. It's almost as if
the clecos are pretty much useless under the vibration of the rivet
gun. I found some long-reach c-clamps at home depot which are not
ideal but better than nothing. The c-clamp visegrips also look
promising.
4. Shop head on the thicker side does help somewhat but it doesn't
solve all problems. Note that there are some posts in the archives
that have this backward.
5. I ended up hitting some of these rivets with a long set I just
bought instead of the double-offset. The double-offset seemed harder
to control and required more time/PSI, at least to my inexperienced
hands...
Also I'll pass along another "thumbs up" on hockey shin tape for
cushioning those universal sets. You'll spend some time tracking it
down but it sure seemed to help my newbie riveting quite a bit.
No smilies at all and the heads look pristine. Lasts longer than
masking tape and no residue.
Thanks again, can't wait to rivet the skin on now.
Paul
Message 20
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--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
> Automotive epoxy primers are formulated for use on steel. These epoxy
primers are not intended for use on aluminum. Their formulation does not
offer any special ingredients to prevent corrosion.
>
Thanks very much Charlie for the new information on primers. I am not sure
you are right on this. I look at the product description on PPG DPLF epoxy
primer and it reads, "DPLF.....provides an excellent corrosion resistant
primer. This primer provides excellent adhesions to many types of properly
prepared metal, fiberglass and aluminum substrates, as well as plastic
fillers."
And it is a compatible primer base surface for PPG Concept paint. I don't
see
where DeSoto Desoprime HS is acceptable in that regard for Concept.
What is it about acceptability of a paint on a plane that is different from
a car if it works on aluminum? The folks at Nascar use PPG Concept paints
on many race cars that
routinely go over 200 MPH although I don't know what the primer is. I am
sure they could not prove it will last for 20 years. I assume they paint on
steel and not aluminum but they may be painting on
composite too. I would like to hear more about why the DPLF primer is not
to be used for the plane. It might help someone else make a better
decision, but for me I am already committed to DPLF. Thanks for more
information to make me smarter next time if there is one.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
On Finish Kit
Message 21
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| Subject: | Circuit Breakers |
MIME_BOUND_NEXTPART
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Howdy-
While comparison shopping on the web I discovered that one can get CB's that will
work in ATC / automotive style fuse blocks. Does anyone have any insights
as to the reliability / quality / applicability of these devices to our homebuilts?
Glen Matejcek
All-electric RV-8, pulling wires
aerobubba@earthlink.net
Message 22
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| Subject: | Backup Instruments |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
I think this is more of a subjective thing that can't simply be answered as
a "blanket" rule. I think it depends more on pilot proficiency than the
instrument itself. I know one pilot on my airport who could easily fly hard
IFR with only the 196 (or less), but then I know guys who could barely fly
light IFR with a full panel of working instruments and a coupled Autopilot!
The difference is experience and comfort level flying hard IFR. Some have
it and some don't. Personally, I don't have tons of time or experience
flying hard IFR, so I know my limits.
Sorry for the vaguely rhetorical answer, but I think it's the truth! BTW,
your panel looks like it should be a really nice setup! Perhaps a Dynon
EFIS for a backup?!?
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
1 RV6 - IFR
1 RV6 - VFR
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave Sundberg
Subject: RV-List: Backup Instruments
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Sundberg" <david_fs@hotmail.com>
Has anyone flown the Garmin 196 Panel Screen under actual or simulated IFR
conditions? Is it reasonable to plan on it as an emergency-only backup
instrument to get you down safely if the rest of the panel goes dark? I've
been scratching my head over a panel layout and would appreciate some input.
My main concern is with what I realistically need for backup. I'm not IFR
rated, but plan to be shortly after completing my 7, so I want the panel to
be at least minimally IFR capable. The current plan is for:
GRT EFIS
GRT EIS
GTX 327
SL30
GPS196
DigiTrak
AlTrak
Vert. Card Compass
AOA
I may add an IFR GPS later for GPS approaches, but should this panel be
sufficient for "Light (and safe) IFR"?
Dave
Alpharetta, GA
RV-7A - Panel & Wire
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Mud daubers,
we don't have no stinking mud daubers, in fact we don't have no stinking
animals, nor plants, nor bugs, nor houses, but we do have some great deals
on toasted things these days.
It is unfortunate that they evacuated the politicians and beaurecrats though
as I'm certain we could get good value on those items.
For sale:
1 ex-governor
5 county board members
5 city council members
1 mayor
numerous beaurecrats and appointees with various levels of incompetent skill
sets
1 plethera of radio and TV talk show hosts
All to be sold as is, used, unsterilized and somewhat charred, will sell as
a set or separately, they make great book ends, and can be used for your
chess board of you lose a pawn or two. They can also be used as lawn
ornaments but please be sure to coat them with butyrate or nitrate coatings
in case of fire.
do not archive in-sane diego or anywhere else
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: cheap, easy paint booth |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Frazier, Vincent A wrote:
>
>Linn's idea is just fine, but here's another one that might save you a BUNCH of
time and money.
>Go to the local junk tool store, online, or flea market and buy one of the 10'X
20' garage tents that sell for about $100. It comes with EVERYTHING in one
box. It's what I used and it is just the right size for painting RVs.
>
>Here's a few links that shows the tent in action.
>http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/2003-10-02/painting%20tent.jpg
>http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/2003-10-02/fuselage%20painting%201.jpg
>http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/2003-10-02/fuselage%20painting%203.jpg
>
Great idea, and great pics! I used light chain to hang the 'top' from
the hangar beams, and when I'm not painting, I just pull the uprights
out and fold the plastic over the top so it's out of the way. I had to
attach the frame to the back of the hangar until I had the plastic on
otherwise it sways a lot. The 'carport' frame is more sturdy and that
isn't a problem. Thanks for sharing your idea!
Linn
>
>http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/Everything%20else.htm or just read the entire, detailed painting process on this page. It's worth reading if you are painting your own plane. If you're not painting your own plane... you big sissy. LOL. You don't have to thank me.... just send cash. ;-)
>
>Vince Frazier
>F-1H Rocket, N540VF, Crazy Horse
><http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html>
>
>
>
Message 25
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
PPG DPLF/Concept primer & paint combinations have been used on aircraft for
quite some time with very few adverse affects, and overall very
successfully. As we all know there is a difference between making an
opinion based on "what you've heard or read", and then making a decision
based on the "real-world" facts.
Fact is, the PPG DP/Concept line works very well on our planes. Like any
paint system, the paint is usually better than the person applying it.
Meaning, most homebuilders are not professional painters, and nearly any
paint system from house/barn paint to space shuttle paint can be made to
work well, or can be a disaster.
I'm happy with the PPG DP/Concpet line, have one plane painted with it, and
am getting ready to paint the second. Since I'm an amateur, I like the ease
of use and the ability to fix my mistakes, but that's just me. Each person
has to make their own decisions.
In the end, it's like everything with these planes. Personal preference. If
you like it, do it...if you don't, don't!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
LarryRobertHelming
Subject: RV-List: DP Primer
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
> Automotive epoxy primers are formulated for use on steel. These epoxy
primers are not intended for use on aluminum. Their formulation does not
offer any special ingredients to prevent corrosion.
>
Thanks very much Charlie for the new information on primers. I am not sure
you are right on this. I look at the product description on PPG DPLF epoxy
primer and it reads, "DPLF.....provides an excellent corrosion resistant
primer. This primer provides excellent adhesions to many types of properly
prepared metal, fiberglass and aluminum substrates, as well as plastic
fillers."
And it is a compatible primer base surface for PPG Concept paint. I don't
see
where DeSoto Desoprime HS is acceptable in that regard for Concept.
What is it about acceptability of a paint on a plane that is different from
a car if it works on aluminum? The folks at Nascar use PPG Concept paints
on many race cars that
routinely go over 200 MPH although I don't know what the primer is. I am
sure they could not prove it will last for 20 years. I assume they paint on
steel and not aluminum but they may be painting on
composite too. I would like to hear more about why the DPLF primer is not
to be used for the plane. It might help someone else make a better
decision, but for me I am already committed to DPLF. Thanks for more
information to make me smarter next time if there is one.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
On Finish Kit
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: VS rib to spar gap |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
>
>3. Even if you can't get a clamp very close to the rivet it's still
>better than some distant (1" or more away) clecos. It's almost as if
>the clecos are pretty much useless under the vibration of the rivet
>gun. I found some long-reach c-clamps at home depot which are not
>ideal but better than nothing. The c-clamp visegrips also look
>promising.
The folks at Vans recommend that you have several "cleco" style
clamps. These work extremely well for this sort of clamping task. I use
them constantly. here is a link:
http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/prodinfo.asp?number=CLC100&variation=&aitem=3&mitem=9
Message 27
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--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
At 08:30 PM 11/6/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
><sisson@consolidated.net>
>
>green board tested 8:25
>
>two led's are dim, but it can't be detected. they are in the forward
>facing cluster and they are so
>bright that they are not noticed.....
As you note later, a forgotten resistor was the cause.
You left off a part, but the light still functioned quite well. As
you proved to yourself, I designed the lights to be as reliable as possible.
I could have used a single voltage regulator instead of many
current regulators. The separate current regulators protect the LEDs from
voltage spikes, make the LEDs last longer, and have a very constant light
output, regardless of aging or changes in ambient temperature or changes in
supply voltage.
>will trouble shoot later when vision returns.
The instructions tell you not to look directly at the lights when
you power them up. :-) Perhaps I should change the instructions and suggest
folks put on sunglasses.
How long did you see spots? :-)
Bill Dube'
Message 28
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| Subject: | Another Plane Is Born |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
N9PT has successfully made the transition from being a bundle of parts to an
airplane. At 11:30 am, Nov 6, Mike Robertson, aka das fed, issued the
special airworthiness certificate. Mike did a great job and was fantastic
to work with.
First flight is scheduled for Sunday, Nov 9, exactly 9 years after I picked
my empennage kit up from Vans.
Many thanks to the RV-List. My first post was June 14, 1995.
Vital Statistics
RV-6A (slow build obviously)
N9PT (no significance. I picked it because its shortness and how it rolls
off the tongue (Niner, Papa, Tango))
New O360-A1A Lycoming
New Hartzel Constant Speed Prop
One Lightspeed Plasma II Electronic Ign, One Mag
GRT Engine Monitor with fuel flow option
TruTrack DFC 250
Propriety Software AOA Pro II
Dynon EFIS with remote compass
Aviation Instruments Technology Mach III Air Data Computer
Richie M2 electronic compass
RC Allen Turn Coordinator
Electronic International Super Clock
Bob Nuckolls Voltage/Loadmeter
Apollo Full Stack
MX20 MFD
GX60 GPS/Com
SL15 Audio/CD/Playback
SL70 Transponder
SL30 Nav/Com
Annunciator
Mid-Continent CDI
Electric aileron/elevator trim and flaps
Infinity Aerospace Grip (pilot only, co-pilot unwired w/ Mac grip)
PTT---Trigger
Aileron/elevator trim hat
Flaps down and up with limit switch for automatic shut off
Comm1 flip/flop and playback for my SL15
TruTrack Control Wheel Autopilot Switch
Previous/next screens on my GRT engine monitor
Standard Nav and Com 1 antenna
Archer Wingtip Com II and Marker Beacon Antennas
All Electric, one battery, B&C 40 amp alternator and backup B&C SD-8 PM
Alternator
Wired as per Bob Nuckolls "All Electric On A Budget"....with some tweaks
Hot bus, essential bus, main bus
Leather, tempra foam seats by Becky Orndorff
Panel by Steve Davis, Panel Pilot
Hooker Harness Seat Belts
Andair Gasolator
Safecraft Chrome Halon Fire Extinguisher
Stewart Warner oil cooler
Earls SS oil and gas hoses
Whelan Strobes
Mountain High Portable O2 with Kevlar tank
Ross Mickey
N9PT....flying...almost
Message 29
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| Subject: | Mounting Oil Air Separator |
--> RV-List message posted by: Edward OConnor <edwardoconnor@mac.com>
I have an Andair oil/air separator and am wondering if it needs to be
mounted on the firewall in any particular relationship to the outlet on
the engine. Can it be mounted lower then the engine outlet or should
it be higher? Using XP 360 on RV-8.
Ed OConnor/RV-8/Sandy Creek Airpark/Panama City FL
Message 30
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|
author and pe ople in the terminal at the time.
| Subject: | This is a real story and has been verified with the |
author and pe ople in the terminal at the time.
--> RV-List message posted by: "MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" <stephanie.marshall@hp.com>
I wanted to clarify my reason for sending this non-RV item.
While my husband was in the Air Force (2 years ago, he is in college right
now) and while in uniform he had numerous people come up to him and call him
baby killer and other epitaphs.
I just wanted to pass on some news of people supporting our troops and
helping them in a very nice way.
I didn't want to start any pro- or anti- war and/or Bush/gov't talks. This
was only a "isn't it nice that people support our troops" true story.
If anyone was truly upset or offended please give me a call and I will
apologize to them individually.
Stephanie Marshall
541-715-3976
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: This is a real story and has been verified with
the author and pe ople in the terminal at the time.
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
Guys as a current veteran, I would like to say thank you to those people
for giving way to the military men and women coming home for r&r. I know I
would have appreciated it just as they did. On the other hand if there
would have been some there that tried to spit on my fellow vets as they did
to you Viet Nam bretheren I would have put my 11 inch boot right up their
keyster and asked them if they wanted some more. Article 15 be damned. I am
proud of my fellow Veterans who served in Viet NAm and although I am in the
reserves at this time I want to say thank you to them as well. Hooah
Glenn Williams
do not archive
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: This is a real story and has been verified with the author |
and ...
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
Thanks for posting that story Stephanie, and no apologies should be necessary
to anyone.
Do not archive.
Harry Crosby, (ex Sgt., U.S. Army, Korean "police action")
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: more painting tips |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
>I assume your fan was a sealed motor type. Do you have a source? How big
>was it to be effective? An open or Exposed motor can cause a KABOOM to
>occur with flammable paint fumes as the brushes are hanging out in the
>open, subject to producing sparks. Which means you don't want to use
>your K-Mart box fan. SNIP
A word of warning for those of you using fans as extractors. The motor may
be of the induction type and have no brushes as DC motors have, BUT the
heavier ones usually have a capacitor start or bucking coil start winding
which is in the circuit as the motor gets up to speed and which then is
switched out of circuit by a centrifugal switch with an accompanying spark.
The dangers are there!
I salvaged the blower from my old heating furnace when it was replaced by a
modern high-efficiency unit. It has a 3/8 HP motor which V-belt drives a 12"
dia. squirrel-cage rotor. Man, can that thing move air! Ideal for clearing
paint fumes out of the shop! These blowers are usually available on the
cheap form Heating Contractors salvaged from old furnaces like mine. (Sorry
for all you guys in hot climates that don't need these animals [Grrrr] )o_o(
Cheers!!-----Henry Hore in cold Canada!
Message 33
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
If anyone wants a sample of canopy material to test, play, drill, scratch,
buff, hammer, bend, break or just drill and rivet with until you get yours
in let me know off the list. Come Tuesday all this scrap stuff gets
pitched.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Compare high-speed Internet plans, starting at $26.95.
https://broadband.msn.com (Prices may vary by service area.)
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: more painting tips |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Streit <wooody04@bellsouth.net>
Henry, the same thing can be had from air conditioning contractors.
they use squirrel cage blowers in the air handlers and you can be
usually get them free from a/c dealers who junk the old units that they
replace
Jim Streit
90073
fuse
Elsa & Henry wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
>
>
>
>>I assume your fan was a sealed motor type. Do you have a source? How big
>>was it to be effective? An open or Exposed motor can cause a KABOOM to
>>occur with flammable paint fumes as the brushes are hanging out in the
>>open, subject to producing sparks. Which means you don't want to use
>>your K-Mart box fan. SNIP
>>
>>
>
>A word of warning for those of you using fans as extractors. The motor may
>be of the induction type and have no brushes as DC motors have, BUT the
>heavier ones usually have a capacitor start or bucking coil start winding
>which is in the circuit as the motor gets up to speed and which then is
>switched out of circuit by a centrifugal switch with an accompanying spark.
>The dangers are there!
>
>I salvaged the blower from my old heating furnace when it was replaced by a
>modern high-efficiency unit. It has a 3/8 HP motor which V-belt drives a 12"
>dia. squirrel-cage rotor. Man, can that thing move air! Ideal for clearing
>paint fumes out of the shop! These blowers are usually available on the
>cheap form Heating Contractors salvaged from old furnaces like mine. (Sorry
>for all you guys in hot climates that don't need these animals [Grrrr] )o_o(
>
>Cheers!!-----Henry Hore in cold Canada!
>
>
>
>
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Mounting Oil Air Separator |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Edward OConnor wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Edward OConnor <edwardoconnor@mac.com>
>
>I have an Andair oil/air separator and am wondering if it needs to be
>mounted on the firewall in any particular relationship to the outlet on
>the engine. Can it be mounted lower then the engine outlet or should
>it be higher? Using XP 360 on RV-8.
>Ed OConnor/RV-8/Sandy Creek Airpark/Panama City FL
>
>
>
Needs to be higher than the return to the engine. Can be higher than
the crankcase vent, but doesn't have to be.
Linn
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | 2600 rpm placard |
--> RV-List message posted by: =?Windows-1252?Q?Jack_&_Ren=E9e?= <jack.bannon@sympatico.ca>
We've recently purchased a Sensenich 70CM7S9-0-79 prop for our also recently purchased
RV-6A. The prop is not yet installed. Part of the joy of flying the plane,
should be it's aerobatic capability. I've been reading about the do not
exceed 2600 rpm with this prop, as well as cautions not to do aeros because of
the probability of exceeding the rpm limit. Can anyone shed some light on this?
What ramifications if it is exceeded?
Short term excursions? Is there instant damage to the prop/engine mount/airframe?
A harmonic... leading to...?Whatever you have to share would be appreciated.
tks... Jack
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: 2600 rpm placard |
--> RV-List message posted by: N13eer@aol.com
The restriction is there because of a 10th order harmonic vibration in the prop.
Basically that means the prop will shake it self apart, but you will not feel
any vibration until you loose several inches of one of the blades. I was told
the prop needs to be overhauled when it reaches 50 hours of operation in excess
of 2600 rpm. I was also told that the vibration starts at 2600 but starts
low and really build at 2650. So brief excursion should be avoided, but not
something to really sweet in cruise. As for aerobatics, I enjoy looping add
rolling my -8 but I keep the RPM down below 2400. Not a real problem it just
requires some attention to the throttle in a loop.
Hope this helps,
Alan Kritzman
RV-8 99.7 hour....gotta break 100 this weekend.
In a message dated 11/7/2003 5:42:59 PM Eastern Standard Time, Jack & Rene <jack.bannon@sympatico.ca>
writes:
>--> RV-List message posted by: =?Windows-1252?Q?Jack_&_Ren=E9e?= <jack.bannon@sympatico.ca>
>
>We've recently purchased a Sensenich 70CM7S9-0-79 prop for our also recently purchased
RV-6A. The prop is not yet installed. Part of the joy of flying the plane,
should be it's aerobatic capability. I've been reading about the do not
exceed 2600 rpm with this prop, as well as cautions not to do aeros because of
the probability of exceeding the rpm limit. Can anyone shed some light on this?
What ramifications if it is exceeded?
>Short term excursions? Is there instant damage to the prop/engine mount/airframe?
A harmonic... leading to...?Whatever you have to share would be appreciated.
>tks... Jack
>
>
Message 38
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| Subject: | Fuel vent blockages / mud daubers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" <rob@robsglass.com>
I'm somewhat puzzled by the many reports of problems of this nature. I thought
it was standard practice to Proseal screen material across the bottom of the
vents.
Can the wasps get through nylon or fabric mesh? How about metal?
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
RV9A N919RV (res) Fuselage
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Backup Instruments |
--> RV-List message posted by: Boyd Braem <bcbraem@comcast.net>
God Damnit--there is no "light" IFR--if you fly in the soup, you fly in
the soup--do you think that you can peek out the side of your training
glasses in the real world? When things get grey, they get grey--when
things get dark, they get dark--there is no in-between. Where's Old
Bob--the Ancient Aviator-- when you need him? Your ten-year kid, who's
been raised on video games, can probably fly a better ILS course than
you can.
Boyd--I love to fly--I really don't like to look at dead people.
On Friday, November 7, 2003, at 09:49 AM, Dave Sundberg wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Sundberg" <david_fs@hotmail.com>
>
> Has anyone flown the Garmin 196 Panel Screen under actual or simulated
> IFR conditions? Is it reasonable to plan on it as an emergency-only
> backup instrument to get you down safely if the rest of the panel goes
> dark? I've been scratching my head over a panel layout and would
> appreciate some input. My main concern is with what I realistically
> need for backup. I'm not IFR rated, but plan to be shortly after
> completing my 7, so I want the panel to be at least minimally IFR
> capable. The current plan is for:
>
> GRT EFIS
> GRT EIS
> GTX 327
> SL30
> GPS196
> DigiTrak
> AlTrak
> Vert. Card Compass
> AOA
>
> I may add an IFR GPS later for GPS approaches, but should this panel
> be sufficient for "Light (and safe) IFR"?
>
> Dave
> Alpharetta, GA
> RV-7A - Panel & Wire
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Message 40
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Bill Dube wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
>
> At 08:30 PM 11/6/2003 -0800, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
> ><sisson@consolidated.net>
> >
> >green board tested 8:25
> >
> >two led's are dim, but it can't be detected. they are in the forward
> >facing cluster and they are so
> >bright that they are not noticed.....
>
> As you note later, a forgotten resistor was the cause.
>
> You left off a part, but the light still functioned quite well. As
> you proved to yourself, I designed the lights to be as reliable as possible.
>
> I could have used a single voltage regulator instead of many
> current regulators. The separate current regulators protect the LEDs from
> voltage spikes, make the LEDs last longer, and have a very constant light
> output, regardless of aging or changes in ambient temperature or changes in
> supply voltage.
>
> >will trouble shoot later when vision returns.
>
> The instructions tell you not to look directly at the lights when
> you power them up. :-) Perhaps I should change the instructions and suggest
> folks put on sunglasses.
>
> How long did you see spots? :-)
>
> Bill Dube'
They are almost gone now.... actually they only lasted a few minutes, I have old
eyes that are nearly wore out anyway, so seeing nothing is almost normal...
I did the red board this morning, I impressed my wife and a Luscombe friend of
mine.
Don't know if I mentioned in the note to you or not, I did it in about an hour.
After you do the first board, you don't need to read the step by step
instructions and it goes quicker.
These are fantastic, and building them is a lot better than building a
Heathkit.......
Phil
Message 41
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| Subject: | Backup Instruments |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Maybe a more helpful response would be to answer two questions implied by
his request:
1. What do your recommend for a VFR airplane where the pilot would like a
second chance when he inadvertently ends up scud running? Think of Bill &
Jeremy Benedict.
2. What would you consider the minimum requirement for an airplane where the
pilot would like to occasionally file IFR?
"God Damnit-there is no 'light IFR..." may be politically correct among the
jet jockey set, but it doesn't help someone trying to decide how to equip
his RV.
Terry
RV-8A finishing
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Boyd Braem
Subject: Re: RV-List: Backup Instruments
--> RV-List message posted by: Boyd Braem <bcbraem@comcast.net>
God Damnit--there is no "light" IFR--if you fly in the soup, you fly in
the soup--do you think that you can peek out the side of your training
glasses in the real world? When things get grey, they get grey--when
things get dark, they get dark--there is no in-between. Where's Old
Bob--the Ancient Aviator-- when you need him? Your ten-year kid, who's
been raised on video games, can probably fly a better ILS course than
you can.
Boyd--I love to fly--I really don't like to look at dead people.
On Friday, November 7, 2003, at 09:49 AM, Dave Sundberg wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Sundberg" <david_fs@hotmail.com>
>
> Has anyone flown the Garmin 196 Panel Screen under actual or simulated
> IFR conditions? Is it reasonable to plan on it as an emergency-only
> backup instrument to get you down safely if the rest of the panel goes
> dark? I've been scratching my head over a panel layout and would
> appreciate some input. My main concern is with what I realistically
> need for backup. I'm not IFR rated, but plan to be shortly after
> completing my 7, so I want the panel to be at least minimally IFR
> capable. The current plan is for:
>
> GRT EFIS
> GRT EIS
> GTX 327
> SL30
> GPS196
> DigiTrak
> AlTrak
> Vert. Card Compass
> AOA
>
> I may add an IFR GPS later for GPS approaches, but should this panel
> be sufficient for "Light (and safe) IFR"?
>
> Dave
> Alpharetta, GA
> RV-7A - Panel & Wire
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel vent blockages / mud daubers |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Rob W M Shipley wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" <rob@robsglass.com>
>
>I'm somewhat puzzled by the many reports of problems of this nature.
>
It's a big problem
> I thought it was standard practice to Proseal screen material across the bottom
of the vents.
>
I don't know about the RVs (I'm learning!), but it's not common elsewhere.
>Can the wasps get through nylon or fabric mesh?
>
No. They need a hole about > 1/8" ..... depending on the size (age) of
the mud daubers.
> How about metal?
>
They don't eat metal.
Linn
>Rob
>Rob W M Shipley
>RV9A N919RV (res) Fuselage
>
>
>
Message 43
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<AZ_RVList@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | Paint information Thanks |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
As usual the list has came through with volumes of great information. Thanks to
everyone who submitted. I guess this has given the quevos to give it a try. I'll
rely on 38 years of RC modeling experience and the considerable information
gleaned here to make it work.
Thanks everyone
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
Finish kit stuff
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy samples |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
The acrylic is recyclable.
At 03:40 PM 11/7/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
>Come Tuesday all this scrap stuff gets
>pitched.
hal
Message 45
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean" <dvanwinkle@royell.net>
Rob
Get the uhmw tape from Van's. It is applied to the wing itself rather than
to the flap. Also comes in the correct length.
Dean Van Winkle
90095
Fuselage/Finish
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob W M Shipley" <rob@robsglass.com>
Subject: RV-List: SS tape
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" <rob@robsglass.com>
>
> Stein wrote
> "I will be selling it on my website starting next week, and the price will
be
> $.50 cents per foot. The stainless tape is 3" with the heavy duty Acrylic
> adhesive, exactly what works well on the leading edge of the -4,6,7, & 8
flaps.
> Cheers, Stein Bruch, http://www.steinair.com "
>
> Is this not likely to be of use to 9 builders?
>
> Rob
> Rob W M Shipley
> RV9A N919RV (res) Fuselage
>
>
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel vent blockages / mud daubers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
>I'm somewhat puzzled by the many reports of problems of this nature. I
thought it was standard practice to >Proseal screen material across the
bottom of the vents.
>Can the wasps get through nylon or fabric mesh? How about metal?
>Rob
I've done that on all four of my vents. Four?
The two fuel tank vents,
The crankcase breather and
The engine driven fuel pump overflow (vent)
What I did on the last one was to run a length 1/4" tubing down the firewall
to the port side corner and exit through the FW flange (and Cowl hinge
flange) there so that it just barely, protrudes into the slip stream, the
other end connected to the fuel pump through a flex hose length. I figured
that if ever one of the diaphragms in the fuel pump ruptured, I would either
get an oil streak or nice blue one down the belly depending which one "gave
up the ghost" I think this is a good thing to find out early and can be seen
on every pre-flight inspection.
I've never seen anything written about this on the copious literature on
fuel systems I have read.
Cheers!!----Henry Hore
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: Circuit Breakers |
--> RV-List message posted by: Leesafur@aol.com
Semi's been using them for years
Message 48
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
The Van's stuff is also over $1.10 per foot. I just ordered a bunch of UHMW
which is 3"x.006", it will be at least 30% cheaper than Van's, and available
next week in ANY length you desire.
Correct length?!?!?!?! A scissors or razor blade is a pretty easy tool to
use :)
The UHMW is also good around the slider canopy skirts, and other places you
want to keep chafing to a minimum, it's really nice to have some extra
around!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
http://www.steinair.com
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dean
Subject: Re: RV-List: SS tape
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean" <dvanwinkle@royell.net>
Rob
Get the uhmw tape from Van's. It is applied to the wing itself rather than
to the flap. Also comes in the correct length.
Dean Van Winkle
90095
Fuselage/Finish
Message 49
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| Subject: | Re: Backup Instruments |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
To answer the questions;
A VFR airplane needs at a minimum a Turn coodinator in addition to Airspeed
and Altimeter.
As for the "occasional IFR" Boyd is right, Call it what you like, but this
is a bad concept. Would I fly in worse weather in a deiced radar equiped
twin than my RV? Yes, but if you are going to fly IFR at all, then you need
to have an IFR airplane.
Whether you fly light, occasional, or just plain IFR. The requirements for
the pilot and the plane are the same. A current well trained pilot and a
plane with the basics and some back up. That means no single failure will
leave you unable to control your airplane.
Using the Dynon or other EFIS, I would want a turn coordinator (preferably
driving an A/P) a seperate Airspeed and Altimeter. The EFIS and the T/C
need to have a different power source. (the Dynon internal battery
qualifies)
To answer an earlier question that started this, I practiced flying the B-25
without looking out the windows using a Garmin 196 and I was convinced that
I could get thru a cloud deck with it alone, but I would not consider that
as a sole source of back up to an EFIS. It is a little slow reacting and an
RV rolls pretty fast, in turbulence in a quick airplane it might not work.
Also, too many times the battery is dead in my handheld GPS. I have shot an
ILS to minimums in a C-210 with a froze up pitot system and using GPS info
for speed and it works, but I can tell you it is not an Airspeed indicator.
If the G196 was continiously being charged by the ships power, that might
be an acceptable alternative, but I would strongly prefer separate panel
mounted backups. Yoke mounted, cigarette lighter powered, handhelds, with
cords all over the cockpit and an antenna that gets blocked in certain
situations would not cut it.
Just one old freight hound's opinion.
Doug Rozendaal
IFR RV-4 Dynon, AS, Alt, Navaid A/P, KX-155w/GS, ARNAV 5000 GPS, plus a cell
phone and a Lowrance handheld sometimes with dead batteries just in case it
gets really tough. I am not paranoid, I have just had everything in an
airplane quit at least once.
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
>
> Maybe a more helpful response would be to answer two questions implied by
> his request:
>
> 1. What do your recommend for a VFR airplane where the pilot would like a
> second chance when he inadvertently ends up scud running? Think of Bill &
> Jeremy Benedict.
> 2. What would you consider the minimum requirement for an airplane where
the
> pilot would like to occasionally file IFR?
>
> "God Damnit-there is no 'light IFR..." may be politically correct among
the
> jet jockey set, but it doesn't help someone trying to decide how to equip
> his RV.
>
> Terry
> RV-8A finishing
>
Message 50
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|
| Subject: | Re: Epoxy primers for aluminum was Why do we use |
VariPrime/ Sherwin williams?
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net> VariPrime/
Sherwin williams?
Larry,
I'm sorry I wasn't clear. Yes, you can use the DP40, however, it will not afford
you the same level of corrosion protection. As I stated earlier, it doesn't
contain strontium chromate. I'm going to send you some info regarding the Mil
Spec for aircraft primers. I'll send this "off list", since the RV List will
simply strip it out, if I post it here.
I "thought" that DP70 contained strontium chromate, however, I was not sure, so
I did not mention using it. However, I see that another lister posted that it
does contain this useful ingredient. If you prefer to stick to PPG's automotive
primers, I'd say go with that. Just out of curiosity, what does PPG say is
a "properly prepared" aluminum surface? I'll bet they recommend using a chromate
conversion process (aka Alodine or Iridite) prior to painting.
I don't get to wound around the axle when I read statements by paint manufacturers
regarding using only their specified products. There are 2 reasons for this.
#1 They have tested their primers and finish paints. They know they work together.
They also want to instill brand loyalty and get you to buy all you paints
from them. Using other products is an unknown quantity to them. They usually
state this in their literature. The implication is that something will go
wrong with your paint job if you don't buy their stuff.
Epoxy primers are capable of being used with most any top coat. When they first
came out many years ago, painters used them to seal enamel paints. Certain older
cars were originally painted with lacquer. Most classic cars are more valuable
if they are painted with the "original" paint. When acrylic enamels first
came on the scene, a lot of older cars were repainted with it. You can not
directly apply lacquer over enamel. A chemical reaction will occur which makes
the new lacquer top coat look like wrinkle paint. A painter could either totally
strip the enamel paint job off, then paint with the original lacquer. This
is time consuming and expensive. As an alternative, an epoxy primer could be
applied over the enamel paint. This seals the enamel paint job and keeps it separate
from the lacquer paint job to be applied over it.
My point here is that epoxy primers will allow application of dissimilar paints
without causing problems.
#2 With today's litigious society, specifying use of certain products gives them
an "out" if things go wrong for you. It's another case of CYA.
Concept or even PPG's Delta (which I'm using over Sterling Mil-Spec epoxy primer)
will work fine over any of PPG's or DeSoto's primers. The great thing about
all epoxy primers is that they are not sensitive about what you apply as a finish
coat over them.
Charlie
>--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
>
>> Automotive epoxy primers are formulated for use on steel. These epoxy
>primers are not intended for use on aluminum. Their formulation does not
>offer any special ingredients to prevent corrosion.
>>
>
>Thanks very much Charlie for the new information on primers. I am not sure
>you are right on this. I look at the product description on PPG DPLF epoxy
>primer and it reads, "DPLF.....provides an excellent corrosion resistant
>primer. This primer provides excellent adhesions to many types of properly
>prepared metal, fiberglass and aluminum substrates, as well as plastic
>fillers."
>
>And it is a compatible base surface for PPG Concept paint. I don't see
>where DeSoto Desoprime HS is acceptable in that regard.
>
>What is it about acceptability of a paint on a plane that is different from
>a car? The folks at Nascar use PPG Concept paints on many race cars that
>routinely go over 200 MPH although I don't know what the primer is. I
>assume they paint on steel and not aluminum but they may be painting on
>composite too. I would like to hear more about why the primer is not
>designed for the plane. Thanks for more information.
>
>Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
>On Finish Kit
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Why do we use VariPrime/ Sherwin williams?
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>>
>> Larry,
>> DP40LF does not contain strontium chromate. If it's an automotive product,
>& is not intended for use on aircraft aluminum. Strontium chromate is the
>replacement for Zinc chromate used in Aerospace Mil Spec epoxy primers. I
>know that PPG makes aircraft refinishing products. DeSoto is their Aviation
>Division. DeSoto Desoprime HS is one product which is specifically
>formulated for use on aluminium.
>>
>>
>http://www.ppg.com/prc-desoto/main.asp?img=coat&menuID=2&contLvl=com&catID=2&prodLvl=prime&prodID=1&pdfID=4
>>
>> http://www.ppg.com/prc-desoto/pdf/desophs.pdf
>>
>> Automotive epoxy primers are formulated for use on steel. These epoxy
>primers are not intended for use on aluminum. Their formulation does not
>offer any special ingredients to prevent corrosion.
>>
>> The link below lists all the aviation primers available through PPG's
>DeSoto division.
>>
>>
>http://www.ppg.com/prc-desoto/main.asp?img=coat&menuID=2&contLvl=com&catID=2&prodLvl=prime&prodID=1
>>
>> DeSoto's Super Koropon is another excellent product for aircarft use. You
>can use anything you want on your aircraft. However, why not use a product
>specifically designed for aircraft aluminum? Epoxy primers are not cheap, so
>why not get the best product for the job?
>>
>> Charlie Kuss
>>
>> >--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming"
><lhelming@sigecom.net>
>> >
>> >That is why I used 2-part epoxy DP40LF. Also, when you go to do the
>finish
>> >painting, the DP48LF is a good primer for the PPG Concept paint. Great
>> >stuff. And by the way, the DP40/48LF primer can be thinned to make it
>flow
>> >out nice and smooth. Ask your PPG paint supplier about it. Great primer
>> >but you need a air supply to protect yourself or work outside where there
>is
>> >plenty of fresh air. And it does not dry instantly like some other
>primers.
>> >Painting in the fall is a good time due to bugs being less common with
>> >outside painting. However, I suggest you setup an inside paint booth
>large
>> >enough to do a detached wing and later the fuselage. That is the best
>way
>> >to go when you think about it seriously IMO.
>> >
>> >Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
>> >On Finish Kit and painting things Viper Race Yellow over DP48LP primer
>> >
>> >
>> >----- Original Message -----
>> >From: <DWENSING@aol.com>
>> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Why do we use VariPrime/ Sherwin williams?
>> >
>> >
>> >> --> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
>> >>
>> >> In a message dated 11/1/03 11:34:22 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>> >> top_gun_toronto@yahoo.ca writes:
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> > For those following our steps... the only true sure way is to Anodize
>or
>> >> > Epoxy paint. Anything else is a guess against mother nature.
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >>
>> >> Sorry, but that is not quite true. There are other paint systems that
>will
>> >> give equal or better corrosion protection versus epoxy. The one thing
>> >epoxy does
>> >> provide is chemical resistance. i.e. gasoline and oil
>> >> Dale Ensing
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
Message 51
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| Subject: | Re: This is a real story and has been verified with the author |
and ...
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
AMEN....Opp's that's not PC....Ahhh... "right on" (that should date me into
the 60"s) KABONG Do Not Archive.
----- Original Message -----
From: <HCRV6@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: This is a real story and has been verified with the
author and ...
> --> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
>
> Thanks for posting that story Stephanie, and no apologies should be
necessary
> to anyone.
>
> Do not archive.
>
> Harry Crosby, (ex Sgt., U.S. Army, Korean "police action")
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, firewall forward
>
>
Message 52
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|
| Subject: | invisible hinge oil door...questionable assembly/painting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I'm happy with how my oil door has turned out, with the hinge invisible and
all. But before I rivet it together, I want to make sure I'm not shooting
myself in the foot with regard to painting. Here are some photos and
comments on the issue:
http://www.rvproject.com/oildoor.html
...the issue being that unlike the "stock" design, the oil door is not
removable once riveted on (can't be painted separately), and it might be
tricky to get the inside flange painted.
If I paint everything separately and then assemble it, I'll obviously have
visible rivet heads, no can do.
Is it as simple as masking off everything but the flange, painting that
first, letting that dry, then closing the door and painting the whole cowl?
I'm going to have a paint shop shoot it, so is this something I can expect
the average shop to accommodate?
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
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