Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:20 AM - Re: Odessy Batteries (Jim Jewell)
2. 01:50 AM - Re: RV 4 Alternator (Dan Checkoway)
3. 03:31 AM - Re: Air Filter 0-360-A1A (BrooksRV6@webtv.net (Chris Brooks))
4. 05:00 AM - Re: Odessy Batteries (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
5. 05:56 AM - Re: transducer manifold (Tailgummer@aol.com)
6. 06:08 AM - B & C starter for sale (Pat Hatch)
7. 06:35 AM - Re: Odessy Batteries (Scott Bilinski)
8. 07:01 AM - Re: Odessy Batteries (Darwin N. Barrie)
9. 08:16 AM - Re: Odessy Batteries (Dan Checkoway)
10. 08:38 AM - DiVilbiss PLUS Spray Gun for sale. (Francis Malczynski)
11. 08:43 AM - Re: Band Saws ()
12. 09:10 AM - Oil on my windscreen - Part 3 (dmedema@att.net)
13. 09:27 AM - Backer board for interior panels (Donald Mei)
14. 09:29 AM - Re: Re: Band Saws (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
15. 09:48 AM - "We Love RV's" Gathering at Leeward Air Ranch (ewspears@comcast.net (Esten Spears))
16. 09:48 AM - OdYssey (Darwin N. Barrie)
17. 10:23 AM - Re: Backer board for interior panels (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
18. 10:29 AM - Re: "We Love RV's" Gathering at Leeward Air Ranch (C. Rabaut)
19. 10:46 AM - Re: Re: Band Saws (Tim Bryan)
20. 10:53 AM - Re: Safety Concern (Frank Eldridge)
21. 11:25 AM - Thorp S18 plans (Dr. Kevin P. Leathers)
22. 11:28 AM - RV 4 Alternator (pcondon)
23. 11:39 AM - Re: intersection fairings (Jim and Bev Cone)
24. 11:45 AM - Re: RV 4 Alternator (Scott Bilinski)
25. 11:50 AM - Re: Safety Concern (NEW Tool for the job) (Richard Meske)
26. 12:38 PM - Re: Safety Concern (Frank Eldridge)
27. 01:01 PM - experience with prop governor on fresh engine (Dan Checkoway)
28. 01:15 PM - Dynon flush mount (Ken Simmons)
29. 01:32 PM - Re: Dynon flush mount (Brian Denk)
30. 01:48 PM - Re: experience with prop governor on fresh engine (Scott Bilinski)
31. 01:48 PM - Re: experience with prop governor on fresh engine (Scott Bilinski)
32. 01:50 PM - Re: Backer board for interior panels (Gordon and Marge)
33. 02:36 PM - Re: experience with prop governor on fresh engine (Mike Robertson)
34. 02:49 PM - Re: Backer board for interior panels (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
35. 02:58 PM - Re: experience with prop governor on fresh engine (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
36. 05:30 PM - Re: finishing up sequence of events? (Emrath)
37. 06:31 PM - Spelling - NOT RV RELATED!!!!! (Jerry Isler)
38. 06:34 PM - prop governor (Gert)
39. 06:41 PM - Re: Re: Band Saws (Douglas A. Fischer)
40. 07:18 PM - diodes (Wheeler North)
41. 07:27 PM - RV 10 Tail cone top skins (Eustace Bowhay)
42. 09:02 PM - dynon (Wheeler North)
43. 09:02 PM - Fw: XCOM, Pilot, Lightspeed and customer service. (Rob W M Shipley)
44. 09:32 PM - Re: Band Saws (Jim Anglin)
45. 11:22 PM - Re: experience with prop governor on fresh engine (Dan Checkoway)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Odessy Batteries |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Darwin,
Try . Http://www.batteries4everything in California, USD $62.55 Good
service to me in the land north of the border.
they do have a shipping charge. It didn't seem like all that much to me at
the time.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
<RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RV-List: Odessy Batteries
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
>
> Hi All,
>
> I apologize for this message!! I thought I had saved the information on
the Odessy batteries but apparently not. The archives suck so I need to post
to the group.
>
> Where is the best place to get the PC860 with the most reasonable shipping
costs?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Darwin N. Barrie
> Chandler AZ
> Doin' the wiring!!
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: RV 4 Alternator |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I second that...got the same 40A from B&C and everybody comments on how tiny
it is. It was never an issue cowl-wise (granted, this is an RV-7).
http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20030720_alternator_installed.jpg
Best of luck,
)_( Dan
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil@pressenter.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV 4 Alternator
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil@pressenter.com>
>
> I have a 40 amp B&C alternator that fit my 0-360 RV-4 with plenty of
> clearance.
>
> Doug Weiler
> Hudson, WI
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Mcmahon" <rv6@earthlink.net>
> To: "RV LIST" <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: RV 4 Alternator
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: John Mcmahon <rv6@earthlink.net>
> >
> > Anyone out in RV4 land that may know who makes the smallest diameter
> > alternator for the 0320 ...I have a friend that has the frame of the
> > unit touching
> > the cowl ,not the pulley!!! Thanks for any help..
> >
> > John McMahon RV6 (near paint)
> >
> > Do Not archive
> >
> >
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Air Filter 0-360-A1A |
--> RV-List message posted by: BrooksRV6@webtv.net (Chris Brooks)
Are you sure you have the Filter Air Box for the O-360, and not the
O-320? On mine (O-360) the nose of the fiberglass box angles up and the
directions said to notch the sides of the lid and angle the front up to
match.
My FAB contacted the cowl scoop on the left side. I made a new .062
plate mounting plate (the one that bolts to the carb) to shift the FAB
to the right.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Odessy Batteries |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
"Darwin N. Barrie" wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
>
> Hi All,
>
> I apologize for this message!! I thought I had saved the information on the Odessy
batteries but apparently not. The archives suck so I need to post to the
group.
>
> Where is the best place to get the PC860 with the most reasonable shipping costs?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Darwin N. Barrie
> Chandler AZ
> Doin' the wiring!!
http://sunnbattery.com/category.html?UCIDs=559844%7C1209500
Sunn Battery company 74.59 +5.50 shipping
do not archive
Message 5
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|
| Subject: | Re: transducer manifold |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tailgummer@aol.com
You may consider just plugging the non-used port (may be utilized later??)
and leave it as-is..
Tailgummer RV8 (Finishing)
Message 6
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|
| Subject: | B & C starter for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
I have a brand new B & C starter that I had to replace with a Skytec. Long story,
but Van's snorkel for the IO-360 does not fit with the B & C starter.
This is off a new engine from Bart going in an RV-7 that I am building. This is
a new BCS206-149-12 that B & C sells for $550. I will sell it for $500 and
I will pay shipping anywhere in the continental U.S.
do not archive
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Odessy Batteries |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Make sure to order on line. If you call to order the price doubles!!!
At 12:15 AM 3/8/04 -0800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
>
>Darwin,
>
>Try . Http://www.batteries4everything in California, USD $62.55 Good
>service to me in the land north of the border.
>they do have a shipping charge. It didn't seem like all that much to me at
>the time.
>
>Jim in Kelowna
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>; <rv7-list@matronics.com>;
><RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Odessy Batteries
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
>>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> I apologize for this message!! I thought I had saved the information on
>the Odessy batteries but apparently not. The archives suck so I need to post
>to the group.
>>
>> Where is the best place to get the PC860 with the most reasonable shipping
>costs?
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
>> Darwin N. Barrie
>> Chandler AZ
>> Doin' the wiring!!
>>
>>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Odessy Batteries |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
Thanks, I appreciate the tip. Just getting ready to order.
Darwin
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Bilinski" <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Odessy Batteries
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> Make sure to order on line. If you call to order the price doubles!!!
>
>
> At 12:15 AM 3/8/04 -0800, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
> >
> >Darwin,
> >
> >Try . Http://www.batteries4everything in California, USD $62.55 Good
> >service to me in the land north of the border.
> >they do have a shipping charge. It didn't seem like all that much to me
at
> >the time.
> >
> >Jim in Kelowna
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>; <rv7-list@matronics.com>;
> ><RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>
> >Subject: RV-List: Odessy Batteries
> >
> >
> >> --> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
> >>
> >> Hi All,
> >>
> >> I apologize for this message!! I thought I had saved the information on
> >the Odessy batteries but apparently not. The archives suck so I need to
post
> >to the group.
> >>
> >> Where is the best place to get the PC860 with the most reasonable
shipping
> >costs?
> >>
> >> Thanks in advance.
> >>
> >> Darwin N. Barrie
> >> Chandler AZ
> >> Doin' the wiring!!
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Odessy Batteries |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
$80.09 door to door from Sunn Battery (that was in March of 2003).
Higher price, but just a $5.50 flat shipping fee, which ended up being
cheaper overall than Batteries4Everything, especially for CA buyers (no
tax).
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
(I posted this same exact message I don't know how many times...so DO NOT
ARCHIVE)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Odessy Batteries
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
>
> Thanks, I appreciate the tip. Just getting ready to order.
>
> Darwin
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Scott Bilinski" <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Odessy Batteries
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
> >
> > Make sure to order on line. If you call to order the price doubles!!!
> >
> >
> > At 12:15 AM 3/8/04 -0800, you wrote:
> > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
> > >
> > >Darwin,
> > >
> > >Try . Http://www.batteries4everything in California, USD $62.55 Good
> > >service to me in the land north of the border.
> > >they do have a shipping charge. It didn't seem like all that much to me
> at
> > >the time.
> > >
> > >Jim in Kelowna
> > >
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
> > >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>; <rv7-list@matronics.com>;
> > ><RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>
> > >Subject: RV-List: Odessy Batteries
> > >
> > >
> > >> --> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
> > >>
> > >> Hi All,
> > >>
> > >> I apologize for this message!! I thought I had saved the information
on
> > >the Odessy batteries but apparently not. The archives suck so I need to
> post
> > >to the group.
> > >>
> > >> Where is the best place to get the PC860 with the most reasonable
> shipping
> > >costs?
> > >>
> > >> Thanks in advance.
> > >>
> > >> Darwin N. Barrie
> > >> Chandler AZ
> > >> Doin' the wiring!!
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > Scott Bilinski
> > Eng dept 305
> > Phone (858) 657-2536
> > Pager (858) 502-5190
> >
> >
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | DiVilbiss PLUS Spray Gun for sale. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Francis Malczynski" <ebbfmm@yahoo.com>
I have a DeVilbiss PLUS suction feed spray gun for sale. It includes 1.6 mm
and 1.8 mm tips, a #410 spray cap, and stainless steel cup. Used to paint
one RV6. New it was $289, will sell for $175 and Ill pay shipping to
anywhere in continental US. Please contact off list. Thanks
Fran Malczynski
RV-6 N594EF
Olcott, NY
ebbfmm@yahoo.com
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: <nyman@bellsouth.net>
Thank you all for your input. I think I will take the time to get an up close
and personal look at Delta and Craftsmen brands locally and peruse the manuals.
Steve
7QB
MEM
Do not archive
Message 12
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|
| Subject: | Oil on my windscreen - Part 3 |
--> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net
Just to finish up the story that started when I noticed oil on
my windscreen a couple of weeks ago.
After doing some research on the web and talking to Bart Lalonde
at Aerosport, it seems like the best adhesive for installing the
crankcase nose seal is a 3M product #847 Scoth-Grip Rubber and
Gasket Adhesive. I know it sticks to skin real well! After
gluing the seal back in, I taped off the area, removed one of the
prop bolt bushings, and drilled and tapped 10-32 holes in the
bosses on the crankcase. I then fabricated some covers out of
0.062 aluminum, bolted them on, and saftied the bolts.
While the plane was down, I also fixed a fuel leak in my gascolator
and replaced a leaking tank drain on my left tank. Finally, I
added a blocking plate on #1 cylinder to try and equalize my CHTs.
Finally got it all back together and took her up on Saturday.
CHTs are much closer, though still a little warm, and no oil
leaks. I'll jerk the cowling off after a couple more hours and
check everything.
As a side note, I noticed that my exhaust bracket between my
two Vetterman exhaust pipes was broken after only 30 hours! I
need to call Larry and order his new kit to hang it from the
engine.
Back to flying.
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM
Message 13
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| Subject: | Backer board for interior panels |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
Dear All,
I am sprucing up the interior of my RV. One of the things I'm attempting to
do is make it warmer and quieter for my wife.
To that end I have some leather for upholstery, and some foil backed. 3/8
inch foam. I plan to make a sandwich with the leather, foam, and a backer
board.
My question is what to use for a backer board. I have some Luan, but it is
heavy. I'm hoping the list can provide some other ideas for a rigid, light
backer board.
Thanks,
Don Mei
Message 14
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Oh and one more data point for you.
I bought the Home Depot Delta table top model. 59 1/2" blades. They did
not make metal blades for it then, say 5 years ago.
I had to do what another lister mentioned which was go to a saw shop and
have a couple blades made. Cheap! One problem I had was that if I put
too much pressure on the blade, it would snap at the weld joint. I
busted several blades this way.
1 month ago whilst perusing the tools section I noticed that Home depot
now carries a 59 1/2" metal blade for the delta. SWEET! I bought it and
it works great and does not break when I put too much pressure on it.
The Delta unit served me very well for my 6A, and is now supporting the
super 8. I do not know how anyone makes it through an entire plane
without one of these. Some do with ziz wheels, but not me.
Mike Stewart
Do not archive.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
nyman@bellsouth.net
Subject: RV-List: RE: Band Saws
--> RV-List message posted by: <nyman@bellsouth.net>
Thank you all for your input. I think I will take the time to get an up
close and personal look at Delta and Craftsmen brands locally and peruse
the manuals.
Steve
7QB
MEM
Do not archive
==
==
==
==
Message 15
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| Subject: | "We Love RV's" Gathering at Leeward Air Ranch |
--> RV-List message posted by: ewspears@comcast.net (Esten Spears)
You are invited to view a Photo Album from Esten Spears.
Hope you like the RV8/P51 formation shots. It was a real handful for the RV Pilots
since the 25 knot gusts and turbulence pushed them around a lot more than
the P51.
Sign up with Club Photo today and get 25 cent 4x6 prints!
Photo Album:
http://www.clubphoto.com/reward.php?id=2100661&mid=members16_esten814128&pwd
Top 5 reasons to join Club Photo today!
1) Get quality prints from that new digital camera you got
2) Share photos online
3) Send in film, get prints, and share the pictures online
4) Buy great photo gifts for the holidays
You can join today at ...
http://www.clubphoto.com/_cgi-bin/members/sign_up.pl
Message 16
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|
<RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
Thanks everyone. After evaluation the cost difference and calculating a UPS shipping
rate I went with Batteries4everything. With the shipping to AZ I saved a
few bucks. Maybe get them a little sooner.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
Message 17
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| Subject: | Backer board for interior panels |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
I used POLYBOARD Durable, Waterproof Corrugated Polyethylene Board.
Obtained from http://www.airtexinteriors.com/catalogue/misc.htm
Lightweight, Easy to handle, fireproof, cheap.
You can see some results here. Go to finishing/interior
http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/index.htm
Good stuff.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Donald Mei
Subject: RV-List: Backer board for interior panels
--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
Dear All,
I am sprucing up the interior of my RV. One of the things I'm attempting
to
do is make it warmer and quieter for my wife.
To that end I have some leather for upholstery, and some foil backed.
3/8
inch foam. I plan to make a sandwich with the leather, foam, and a
backer
board.
My question is what to use for a backer board. I have some Luan, but it
is
heavy. I'm hoping the list can provide some other ideas for a rigid,
light
backer board.
Thanks,
Don Mei
==
==
==
==
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: "We Love RV's" Gathering at Leeward Air Ranch |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Esten,
What state is this Air Park located in? (might consider retiring
there).
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Esten Spears <ewspears@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: "We Love RV's" Gathering at Leeward Air Ranch
> --> RV-List message posted by: ewspears@comcast.net (Esten Spears)
>
> You are invited to view a Photo Album from Esten Spears.
>
> Hope you like the RV8/P51 formation shots. It was a real handful for the
RV Pilots since the 25 knot gusts and turbulence pushed them around a lot
more than the P51.
>
> Sign up with Club Photo today and get 25 cent 4x6 prints!
>
> Photo Album:
>
http://www.clubphoto.com/reward.php?id=2100661&mid=members16_esten814128&pwd
> Top 5 reasons to join Club Photo today!
> 1) Get quality prints from that new digital camera you got
> 2) Share photos online
> 3) Send in film, get prints, and share the pictures online
> 4) Buy great photo gifts for the holidays
>
> You can join today at ...
>
> http://www.clubphoto.com/_cgi-bin/members/sign_up.pl
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Band Saws |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <Tim@bryantechnology.com>
Steve,
I have a craftsman variable speed saw and use the non-ferrous metal cutting
blade. It has worked very well for my RV project.
Good Luck
Tim Bryan
RV-6
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: RE: Band Saws
--> RV-List message posted by: <nyman@bellsouth.net>
Thank you all for your input. I think I will take the time to get an up
close and personal look at Delta and Craftsmen brands locally and peruse the
manuals.
Steve
7QB
MEM
Do not archive
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: Safety Concern |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frank Eldridge" <eldridge@legis.state.ga.us>
January 1, 2003, I had a forced landing in a RV6A. After a ground roll of about
20 feet in a swampy area the plane ended up on its back. I found myself in
the baggage compartment unhurt. I had always thought that I could kick plexiglass
in the canopy out, but I could not. I always carry a pocket knife with a three
inch locking blade and I was able to take that knife and break a hole in
the canopy to get out. The only blood in the airplane was where I cut my hands
on the plexiglass breaking a larger hole in order to extract myself. I strongly
recommend to all my RV friends that they carry a knife like mine in their
pocket because in my case I could not have got to a tool in the cockpit of the
airplane. I have followed RV accidents very closely since mine, and a large
number wind up on their back. So, please get a knife and keep it in your pocket
when flying an RV. There is a story about my accident posted on Doug Reeves
Van's Air Force Web page. Here is the link to m!
y particular article: http://www.vansairforce.net/articles/FrankEldridge0.pdf
Best of luck,
Frank
Message 21
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Kevin P. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
Hello RV List,
A friend of mine is looking for a set of Thorp (Lu Sunderland) S18 plans. They
are no longer available separately from the kit. If anyone has a set for sale,
please contact me directly at DrLeathers@822HEAL.com
BTW, here is a site with info on the Thorp aircraft http://www.t18.net/about.htm
Thanks
Doc
a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Bearhawk/
b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Bearhawk-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Message 22
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "pcondon" <pcondon@mitre.org>
Your adjustment arm and belt may need changing to a smaller belt, not the
alternator. See if using a shorter belt gets the alternator body closer to
the engine.
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: intersection fairings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim and Bev Cone" <jimnbev@olypen.com>
On my first two RV's, I made them part of the wheel pant. I plan to do the same
on my third one that is nearing completion.
Jim Cone
3-peat offender
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV 4 Alternator |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I had the problem of the alt hitting the cowl with more than a 2g pull. I
got 2 belts about .5 and 1.0 shorter. Cut off the bolt hole in the alt belt
tension bracket and installed another hole. The alt now is tucked up a
little higher and does not hit anymore.
At 02:28 PM 3/8/04 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "pcondon" <pcondon@mitre.org>
>
>Your adjustment arm and belt may need changing to a smaller belt, not the
>alternator. See if using a shorter belt gets the alternator body closer to
>the engine.
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 25
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|
| From: | Richard Meske <rmeske@gcfn.org> (SquirrelMail authenticated user rmeske) by www.gcfn.org with HTTP; Mon, |
8 Mar 2004 14:47:22.-0500@matronics.com (EST)
| Subject: | Re: Safety Concern (NEW Tool for the job) |
Check out the NEW nifty tool for just this purpose at:
www.aircraftextras.com
Rich
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Frank Eldridge"
> <eldridge@legis.state.ga.us>
>
> January 1, 2003, I had a forced landing in a RV6A. After a ground roll
> of about 20 feet in a swampy area the plane ended up on its back. I
> found myself in the baggage compartment unhurt. I had always thought
> that I could kick plexiglass in the canopy out, but I could not. I
> always carry a pocket knife with a three inch locking blade and I was
> able to take that knife and break a hole in the canopy to get out. The
> only blood in the airplane was where I cut my hands on the plexiglass
> breaking a larger hole in order to extract myself. I strongly
> recommend to all my RV friends that they carry a knife like mine in
> their pocket because in my case I could not have got to a tool in the
> cockpit of the airplane. I have followed RV accidents very closely
> since mine, and a large number wind up on their back. So, please get a
> knife and keep it in your pocket when flying an RV. There is a story
> about my accident posted on Doug Reeves Van's Air Force Web page. Here
> is the link to m! y particular article:
> http://www.vansairforce.net/articles/FrankEldridge0.pdf
>
> Best of luck,
>
> Frank
>
>
--
Rich
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: Safety Concern |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frank Eldridge" <eldridge@legis.state.ga.us>
January 1, 2003, I had a forced landing in a RV6A. After a ground roll of about
20 feet in a swampy area the plane ended up on its back. I found myself in
the baggage compartment unhurt. I had always thought that I could kick plexiglass
in the canopy out, but I could not. I always carry a pocket knife with a three
inch locking blade and I was able to take that knife and break a hole in
the canopy to get out. The only blood in the airplane was where I cut my hands
on the plexiglass breaking a larger hole in order to extract myself. I strongly
recommend to all my RV friends that they carry a knife like mine in their
pocket because in my case I could not have got to a tool in the cockpit of the
airplane. I have followed RV accidents very closely since mine, and a large
number wind up on their back. So, please get a knife and keep it in your pocket
when flying an RV. There is a story about my accident posted on Doug Reeves
Van's Air Force Web page. Here is the link to m!
y particular article: http://www.vansairforce.net/articles/FrankEldridge0.pdf
Best of luck,
Frank
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | experience with prop governor on fresh engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I started my engine (AeroSport IO-360-A1B6) for the first time on Saturday,
and everything went perfectly with the exception of the prop (Hartzell C2YK)
not cycling. At 1700 RPM, I pulled the prop control all the way out and
nothing happened after 3 seconds. Back to full forward. Another try,
nothing happened for 5 seconds. Total running time was about 9 minutes.
I figured, and others mentioned, that the likelihood is that oil is still
slowly getting up to the prop hub, and that eventually it'll work. I
temporarily disconnected the end of the prop oil hose and it there was oil
there. Cool, I guess I can live with this for now...look forward to testing
it again on the 2nd run.
Today I ran it for the second time to do some more tests. At 1800 RPM, I
pulled the prop control and held it for 5 seconds, nothing. Repeated that,
nothing. Then, finally on the 3rd try it started to cycle. After a few
cycles, the most I could get it to do was drop from 1800 RPM down to 1650 or
so. That's with the prop control pulled out and held out for several
seconds. Today's engine running time, 6 minutes. Total engine running
time, 15 minutes.
Now...I have to throw out a couple of data points:
a) I have the "new" Jihostroj (aka "MT") prop governor that I bought from
Van's with my FWF kit.
b) Because of limited cable travel, the arm on the governor doesn't hit the
full-out stop. I have the cable adjusted so that the governor arm does hit
the fine pitch stop, but when I pull the control all the way out, it goes
maybe 75% of the way through the arc. Van's FWF instructions mentioned that
it's not critical that the coarse pitch stop be hit...but of course I'm
skeptical.
So here are my questions:
1) I would like to see a bigger RPM drop than 150 RPM! I expect it would be
capable of producing a 500 RPM drop or thereabouts. Is it normal behavior
that a prop hub would take a while to fill up and become responsive? Has
anybody else experienced this, where eventually the hub fills up enough to
be normally responsive? I'd rather not keep running the engine on the
ground if I can avoid it.
2) Does anybody know if Jihostroj or any other supplier makes/sells a
shorter arm for the governor? That would at least rule out the arm travel
issue being the cause.
3) On my next and theoretically final engine run before flight, I'm going to
do a full power run-up. Should I just wait until I do that test to see if
the prop becomes more responsive?
If anybody has any tips before I start diving in deeper please let me know.
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Dynon flush mount |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
Anyone out there have pictures of the Dynon flush mounted?
Thanks.
Ken
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 29
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| Subject: | Dynon flush mount |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
>
>Anyone out there have pictures of the Dynon flush mounted?
>
>Thanks.
>Ken
Go thee here:
http://home.comcast.net/~jwdanie/Panel/panel.html
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: experience with prop governor on fresh engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>b) Because of limited cable travel, the arm on the governor doesn't hit the
>full-out stop. I have the cable adjusted so that the governor arm does hit
>the fine pitch stop, but when I pull the control all the way out, it goes
>maybe 75% of the way through the arc. Van's FWF instructions mentioned that
>it's not critical that the coarse pitch stop be hit...but of course I'm
>skeptical.
You should be fine, I have the same govenor but with the WW 151 prop. I used
the "factory demo prop" which was shimmed tightly and it would cycle down in
RPM but did not have enough umph to climb back up to starting RPM. Now I
have my
prop installed and it cycles just fine. This is just an example of a tight prop
and not so tight prop.
>1) I would like to see a bigger RPM drop than 150 RPM! I expect it would be
>capable of producing a 500 RPM drop or thereabouts. Is it normal behavior
>that a prop hub would take a while to fill up and become responsive? Has
>anybody else experienced this, where eventually the hub fills up enough to
>be normally responsive? I'd rather not keep running the engine on the
>ground if I can avoid it.
I bet you need to run it up a little higher on the RPM. New prop could be
stiff, as mentioned above. Try 2k RPM if it does not work there then somethig
is wrong, in my opinion but I am no expert.
>
>2) Does anybody know if Jihostroj or any other supplier makes/sells a
>shorter arm for the governor? That would at least rule out the arm travel
>issue being the cause.
If you need a shorter arm then somehting else is wrong.
>3) On my next and theoretically final engine run before flight, I'm going to
>do a full power run-up. Should I just wait until I do that test to see if
>the prop becomes more responsive?
Full power??? What are you going to tie it to? You are going to tie it down
right? At full power on my 8a I tied it to a tree (a big one) and I drag the
tires and jump the chocks on all three wheels before I even get to full power.
Surprised the rope streached that much!!
>
>If anybody has any tips before I start diving in deeper please let me know.
I am sure that at higher RPM the prop will cycle fiine.....I hope.
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: experience with prop governor on fresh engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Beware on take off that if there is air in the govenor system the RPM will
surge and REALLY get your attention. I saw this happen a few weeks back on
a guys rocket. Really got his attention!!
At 12:56 PM 3/8/04 -0800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>I started my engine (AeroSport IO-360-A1B6) for the first time on Saturday,
>and everything went perfectly with the exception of the prop (Hartzell C2YK)
>not cycling. At 1700 RPM, I pulled the prop control all the way out and
>nothing happened after 3 seconds. Back to full forward. Another try,
>nothing happened for 5 seconds. Total running time was about 9 minutes.
>
>I figured, and others mentioned, that the likelihood is that oil is still
>slowly getting up to the prop hub, and that eventually it'll work. I
>temporarily disconnected the end of the prop oil hose and it there was oil
>there. Cool, I guess I can live with this for now...look forward to testing
>it again on the 2nd run.
>
>Today I ran it for the second time to do some more tests. At 1800 RPM, I
>pulled the prop control and held it for 5 seconds, nothing. Repeated that,
>nothing. Then, finally on the 3rd try it started to cycle. After a few
>cycles, the most I could get it to do was drop from 1800 RPM down to 1650 or
>so. That's with the prop control pulled out and held out for several
>seconds. Today's engine running time, 6 minutes. Total engine running
>time, 15 minutes.
>
>Now...I have to throw out a couple of data points:
>
>a) I have the "new" Jihostroj (aka "MT") prop governor that I bought from
>Van's with my FWF kit.
>
>b) Because of limited cable travel, the arm on the governor doesn't hit the
>full-out stop. I have the cable adjusted so that the governor arm does hit
>the fine pitch stop, but when I pull the control all the way out, it goes
>maybe 75% of the way through the arc. Van's FWF instructions mentioned that
>it's not critical that the coarse pitch stop be hit...but of course I'm
>skeptical.
>
>So here are my questions:
>
>1) I would like to see a bigger RPM drop than 150 RPM! I expect it would be
>capable of producing a 500 RPM drop or thereabouts. Is it normal behavior
>that a prop hub would take a while to fill up and become responsive? Has
>anybody else experienced this, where eventually the hub fills up enough to
>be normally responsive? I'd rather not keep running the engine on the
>ground if I can avoid it.
>
>2) Does anybody know if Jihostroj or any other supplier makes/sells a
>shorter arm for the governor? That would at least rule out the arm travel
>issue being the cause.
>
>3) On my next and theoretically final engine run before flight, I'm going to
>do a full power run-up. Should I just wait until I do that test to see if
>the prop becomes more responsive?
>
>If anybody has any tips before I start diving in deeper please let me know.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Backer board for interior panels |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon and Marge" <gcomfo@tc3net.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Backer board for interior panels
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
--> <mstewart@iss.net>
I used POLYBOARD Durable, Waterproof Corrugated Polyethylene Board.
Obtained from http://www.airtexinteriors.com/catalogue/misc.htm
Lightweight, Easy to handle, fireproof, cheap.
You can see some results here. Go to finishing/interior
http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/index.htm
Good stuff.
Mike
Mike: I do not believe polyethylene in any form is fireproof. It is a
polymerized hydrocarbon that may have color added. If it is black, the
color is carbon black. If you've ever seen a polyethylene fire you'll
want to be elsewhere. The soot is unbelievable.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | experience with prop governor on fresh engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Dan,
First of all, DO NOT fly it unless it works properly on the ground. If the
propr system still has air nasty things can/will happen if you try to fly
it.
Vans is right about the control arm on the prop governor. It does not need
to travel the full length as long as it works OK. At this point it isn't
yet know if it is working ok so I would wait.
Brand new props and the new Jihostrou governor are tight to start out with.
I would suggest doing some more ground run first. Try going up to 2500
and cycling the prop then. And I would tie the plane to something very
heavy first.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: experience with prop governor on fresh engine
>Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 12:56:58 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>I started my engine (AeroSport IO-360-A1B6) for the first time on Saturday,
>and everything went perfectly with the exception of the prop (Hartzell
>C2YK)
>not cycling. At 1700 RPM, I pulled the prop control all the way out and
>nothing happened after 3 seconds. Back to full forward. Another try,
>nothing happened for 5 seconds. Total running time was about 9 minutes.
>
>I figured, and others mentioned, that the likelihood is that oil is still
>slowly getting up to the prop hub, and that eventually it'll work. I
>temporarily disconnected the end of the prop oil hose and it there was oil
>there. Cool, I guess I can live with this for now...look forward to
>testing
>it again on the 2nd run.
>
>Today I ran it for the second time to do some more tests. At 1800 RPM, I
>pulled the prop control and held it for 5 seconds, nothing. Repeated that,
>nothing. Then, finally on the 3rd try it started to cycle. After a few
>cycles, the most I could get it to do was drop from 1800 RPM down to 1650
>or
>so. That's with the prop control pulled out and held out for several
>seconds. Today's engine running time, 6 minutes. Total engine running
>time, 15 minutes.
>
>Now...I have to throw out a couple of data points:
>
>a) I have the "new" Jihostroj (aka "MT") prop governor that I bought from
>Van's with my FWF kit.
>
>b) Because of limited cable travel, the arm on the governor doesn't hit the
>full-out stop. I have the cable adjusted so that the governor arm does hit
>the fine pitch stop, but when I pull the control all the way out, it goes
>maybe 75% of the way through the arc. Van's FWF instructions mentioned
>that
>it's not critical that the coarse pitch stop be hit...but of course I'm
>skeptical.
>
>So here are my questions:
>
>1) I would like to see a bigger RPM drop than 150 RPM! I expect it would
>be
>capable of producing a 500 RPM drop or thereabouts. Is it normal behavior
>that a prop hub would take a while to fill up and become responsive? Has
>anybody else experienced this, where eventually the hub fills up enough to
>be normally responsive? I'd rather not keep running the engine on the
>ground if I can avoid it.
>
>2) Does anybody know if Jihostroj or any other supplier makes/sells a
>shorter arm for the governor? That would at least rule out the arm travel
>issue being the cause.
>
>3) On my next and theoretically final engine run before flight, I'm going
>to
>do a full power run-up. Should I just wait until I do that test to see if
>the prop becomes more responsive?
>
>If anybody has any tips before I start diving in deeper please let me know.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
One-click access to Hotmail from any Web page download MSN Toolbar now!
http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200413ave/direct/01/
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Backer board for interior panels |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Perhaps fire"proof" was the wrong term.
Fire resistant?
The stuff is used on cert. aircraft so I assume it holds some tso, pma,
stc whatchamacallit.
Oh and it is a white plastic cardboard.
I just put a match to a scrap piece and it melted like plastic but did
not flame.
Mike
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gordon and
Marge
Subject: RE: RV-List: Backer board for interior panels
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon and Marge" <gcomfo@tc3net.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Backer board for interior panels
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
--> <mstewart@iss.net>
I used POLYBOARD Durable, Waterproof Corrugated Polyethylene Board.
Obtained from http://www.airtexinteriors.com/catalogue/misc.htm
Lightweight, Easy to handle, fireproof, cheap.
You can see some results here. Go to finishing/interior
http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/index.htm
Good stuff.
Mike
Mike: I do not believe polyethylene in any form is fireproof. It is a
polymerized hydrocarbon that may have color added. If it is black, the
color is carbon black. If you've ever seen a polyethylene fire you'll
want to be elsewhere. The soot is unbelievable.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
==
==
==
==
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Re: experience with prop governor on fresh engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
In a message dated 03/08/2004 1:03:05 PM Pacific Standard Time,
dan@rvproject.com writes:
At 1700 RPM, I pulled the prop control all the way out and
nothing happened after 3 seconds. Back to full forward. Another try,
nothing happened for 5 seconds. (Stuff Cut)
Today I ran it for the second time to do some more tests. At 1800 RPM, I
pulled the prop control and held it for 5 seconds, nothing. Repeated that,
nothing. Then, finally on the 3rd try it started to cycle. After a few
cycles, the most I could get it to do was drop from 1800 RPM down to 1650 or
so. That's with the prop control pulled out and held out for several
seconds. Today's engine running time, 6 minutes. Total engine running
time, 15 minutes.
Hello Dan,
On the Hartzell and MT Propeller, the hydraulic propeller has a piston that
oil pressure moves in one direction only.
There wouldn't normally be any oil in the oil line, crankshaft or the back
side of the hydraulic propeller piston on a new installation.
Holding the propeller control back will fill the oil line and crankshaft, but
it just pushes the air forward into the propeller hub on the first cycle.
Cycling the prop control several times will purge the air out of the prop hub.
Cycling the prop should be on your checklist as part of the engine run up.
On the Lycoming IO-360 engine in my Cherokee Arrow, before I pulled the power
back after the mag check at 1800 RPM, I would cycle the prop control until I
saw a 500 RPM drop. It usually took two or three cycles for this to occur.
On each cycle, I only held the prop control back briefly before it was in the
high RPM position again.
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
An OEM Distributor for MT Propeller
Message 36
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| Subject: | finishing up sequence of events? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Emrath" <emrath@comcast.net>
I'm at this stage too. I am planning on using VAN's battery box forward on
my -6A but can anyone tell if there will be an interference problem with the
prop governor planned for my engine? I would like to mount the box and cut
the hole for the cabin heat box prior to mounting the engine. Seems like
best to do that prior to engine mounting.
Marty in Brentwood TN
Time: 06:35:36 PM PST US
From: "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl@turbonet.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: finishing up sequence of events?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl@turbonet.com>
Hello,
I am there now....It is sort of a chicken and the egg stage isn't it! Well,
here's
what I am doing:
Check with Van's Web Site as they have some additional notes/instructions
about
mounting the wings, the cowl and I believe
the canopy. Main thing is they say to leave off all the engine doodads as
they
get in the way when mounting the cowl.
I haven't mounted the top deck as I am concentrating on firewall
penetrations in
the vain hope of minimizing the crawling
around inside when the top deck is on.
I have the engine mounted. Some say to wait till you have mounted the
firewall
stuff, but I need the engine on to get an
idea of where everything goes.
I have been held up as I really need to have an idea of the panel before I
proceed.
I have decided on NO
fuel/pressure/copper/etc. lines in the cockpit. NO Vacuum instruments. I
elaborate
as you need to know this before you
start punching holes in the firewall. Everything on the firewall will be
nutplated
so you can imagine trying to do it with
the top deck on. Are you using Lightspeed Electronic Ignition? Then you need
to
have a Manifold Pressure line to it and the
coax cables need to seperated from the return sensor wires. This kind of
circular
detail can drive one crazy!
Another reason I mention the panel is that the side sections (RV-8) of it
are best
dealt with before permanent installation
of the top deck. My ignition switch will go on the right and potentially the
carb/cabin
heat will go on the left. Also if
you can nail down the electrical wire routing (again firewall penetrations)
you
will be ahead of the game. With apologies
to the traditionalists, I am going with Aeroelectric Bob's recommendations.
There are other things you can be doing in parallel such as the upholstery,
seats,
cabin wiring, but you already know that.
So wrapping it all up:
Focus on the firewall and instrument side penetrations (and fuel lines, but
you
probably have already done that).
Mount the top deck
Then pick up with the plans at the Canopy.
Of course, that is the game plan for today. Tomorrow could be another story.
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 - SB Finish
"Aerosport and Lightspeed, but still procrastinating on the canopy"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV8ter@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: finishing up sequence of events?
--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
Engine and finishing kit on the way. So what's the preferred order of events
between now and riveting on the forward top fuse skin? I can see some
things
are on an equal level.
Here's what I'm thinking. No vacuum system for me. I want to put a
Lightspeed on one set of plugs but will wait until after 25 hour fly off.
Mount the engine,
install engine accessories,
fit cowl,
exhaust,
baffles,
oil cooler,
fuel and oil hoses/lines,
throttle, mixture, governor cables from cockpit,
engine monitoring cables and sensors,
finish panel,
???,
cut canopy,
rivet on top skin,
finish front baggage door,
install windscreen,
???
What have I got out of order or am missing?
thanks,
lucky
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Spelling - NOT RV RELATED!!!!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Isler" <jlisler@alltel.net>
Caution! The following is not RV related! Please delete now if you don't
want to read anything not RV related.
This is for the list spell checkers :-) (my e-mail spell checker found
nothing wrong with the following)
You just thought the spelling was bad!
Aoccdrnig to rscheearch at Cmabrigde Uinervtisy, it deosn't mttaer in
waht
oredr the ltteers in a wrod are, the olny iprmoetnt tihng is taht the
frist
and lsat ltteer be at the rghit pclae. The rset can be a taotl mses and
you
can sitll raed it wouthit a porbelm. Tihs is bcuseae the huamn mnid
deos
Not raed ervey lteter by istlef, but the wrod as a wlohe.
Do not archive.
Message 38
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|
rv-list <rv-list@matronics.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
Hi
Here is a question for those in the know...
How would I know which prop governor (woodward, hartzell, et all) would
work on a RV with a IO-360 A1B so I don't accidentaly get a feathering
governor or one that goes to fine pitch or one that goes to course pitch
on oil loss, etc.........
Is there a reference list for governors somewhere ???
Thanks
Gert
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Re: RE: Band Saws |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Douglas A. Fischer" <dfischer@iserv.net>
I bought a 3-wheel 12" band saw from Grizzly. Infinite variable speed.
Costs about $140. Also bought the metal-cutting blades from them. So far
its been great. A 12" clearance in a bench-top saw.
Doug Fischer
-9A Wings
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <Tim@bryantechnology.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Band Saws
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <Tim@bryantechnology.com>
>
> Steve,
>
> I have a craftsman variable speed saw and use the non-ferrous metal
cutting
> blade. It has worked very well for my RV project.
>
> Good Luck
> Tim Bryan
> RV-6
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: rv-list@matronics.com
> Date: 03/08/04 09:14:21
> To: RV-List@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RE: Band Saws
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: <nyman@bellsouth.net>
>
> Thank you all for your input. I think I will take the time to get an up
> close and personal look at Delta and Craftsmen brands locally and peruse
the
> manuals.
>
> Steve
> 7QB
> MEM
> Do not archive
>
>
Message 40
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Thanks Dan,
That's kinda what I was thinking. Most of the internal regs are hooked up to
both the main diode output and the extra "trio" diodes so I always figured
it started on the main, then kicked over to the trio, while comparing the
two to monitor overall function.
W
W.,
The extra 3 diodes in a pack are called the diode trio (at least in GM
alternators). Its function is to provide power to the field (rotor). By
using
the
trio, there is isolation from the battery in a car where there is no main
relay as in an airplane. In a car the alternator diodes are hot 24/7. The
team
I
was on back in about 1966 (4 of us at Delco Radio in Kokomo, IN plus some in
Anderson, IN at Delco Remy) came up with the idea of putting the idiot light
between the diode trio (field +) and the switched battery, and found that it
detected about 90% of the faults and required no additional circuitry. Some
of
today's regulators are much more sophisticated at detecting faults, and many
regulate off of the trio voltage if the normal voltage sense line gets
unhooked
thereby preventing a complete runaway. Hope this helps explain the 3 extra
diodes.
Dan (Retired electrical automotive engineer)
RV-7A ( almost done
Message 41
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|
| Subject: | RV 10 Tail cone top skins |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
For those that have not reached this stage and are concerned about damage to the
bottom of the tail cone when riveting, this worked well for me. In my kit there
was a large sheet of one inch low density board, I cut pieces to fit between
the frames and wide enough to rest on the outboard stiffeners. Then used these
as templates to cut identical pieces of plywood from salvage from the shipping
containers. With the low density foam board on the bottom and the plywood
on top this distributed the weight evenly and gave the piece of mind needed for
this part of the process.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. RV 10 # 30- Ribs on L/H wing
Message 42
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Wheeler,
Can you help me visualize how you "sliced on the bottom at angles one for
each axis"? so you could adjust/shim the device so precisely?
David
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV
Hmmm,
first piece is 4" long by 2" wide at one end on the 4" axis it is 3/4"
thick, at the other it is 1/2" thick
Second peice is 4" long by 2" wide on one end/edge on the 2" axis it is 3/4"
thick and the other edge/end it is 5/8" thick.
These numbers aren't correct, in fact I don't remember what they were, but
it was easy to calculate this and rough cut it, then sand each as needed
only on the axis it was cut to, using the digi angleomometer to check after
each adjustment to get it correct.
This allows you adjust for one axis at a time, rather than trying to get
them both at the same time.
Then once glued in place I used some scotch tape as shims to fine trim.
W
Message 43
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|
| Subject: | Fw: XCOM, Pilot, Lightspeed and customer service. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" <rob@robsglass.com>
Tom Friedland, California, Europa, wrote in the Aeroelectric List:-
Hi Rob and anyone else interested in XCom products.. BEWARE!
I bought an intercom from them and also had them make up a wiring
harness to connect the intercom and switch between two Microair 760s.
The intercom appears to be good, clear, light and small. HOWEVER,
harness they supplied is totally inadequate. First of all, many the
cables were mislabeled which of course meant they were connected
incorrectly by me. I emailed Michael Coates, their honcho, and was told
he would get right back to me. Did he, NO. I then asked him if I could
return the harness to him or at least could he send me a wiring diagram.
NO RESPONSE. I have attempted to contact him many times and asked at
least if he would send back the $$ I had paid for the harness. NO
RESPONSE.
Since then, Microair has sent me a proper wiring diagram and I find that
XCom did it entirely wrong, used the wrong kind of switch, etc.
BEWARE...
This customer feedback is very useful. I have recently suffered at the hands of
Pilot. Their ear seals on my PA17-76 ANR headset had deteriorated markedly
and I emailed them for help since it was within the five year warranty. Unlike
the glowing reports of superior customer service from Lightspeed owners I was
sorely disappointed.
Pilot emailed me saying that everyone knows that ear seals are only good for about
twelve months and that if I want a permanent solution I must send $25 for
the silicone type. I replied that I felt ear seals on a product with a five year
warranty should actually last five years or more. This failed to impress
them and I was sent the old type as a replacement - the ones that "everyone knows
only last a year". Their words! I suppose they are waiting for my check
for $25 sometime next March or April!
As Tom Friedland said about XCOM if you are considering a Pilot product, BEWARE!
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
N919RV (res) Fuselage .....still!
Message 44
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Anglin" <jlanglin44@earthlink.net>
I built my HR II using a cheap bench model Delta 8" bandsaw. It uses 56"
blades and the only drawback is it won't cut steel. The 14-15 tpi wood
blades worked fine for all the aluminum I had to cut. I even use a 7 tpi
blade and it worked fine too.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV-List Digest Server" <rv-list-digest@matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List Digest: 41 Msgs - 03/07/04
> *
>
> ==================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> ==================================================
>
> Today's complete RV-List Digest can be also be found in either
> of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
> formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked
> Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII
> version of the RV-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic
> text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list/Digest.RV-List.2004-03-07.html
>
> Text Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list/Digest.RV-List.2004-03-07.txt
>
>
> ================================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ================================================
>
>
> RV-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Sun 03/07/04: 41
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 12:49 AM - Re: Re: Fiber post lights; was non-U.S. parts suppliers
(MMcs139808@aol.com)
> 2. 04:07 AM - Re: Re: Fiber post lights; was non-U.S. parts suppliers
(Dana Overall)
> 3. 04:57 AM - TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator (N6JX)
> 4. 05:58 AM - Re: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator (Darwin N.
Barrie)
> 5. 07:06 AM - Instrument lighting with LEDs (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
> 6. 07:07 AM - Air Filter 0-360-A1A (Tom & Cathy Ervin)
> 7. 07:07 AM - Re: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator (Charlie
Kuss)
> 8. 07:26 AM - Re: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator (Ken
Simmons)
> 9. 07:40 AM - Re: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator (Bobby
Hester)
> 10. 07:57 AM - Re: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator (Bobby
Hester)
> 11. 08:00 AM - Re: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator
(LarryRobertHelming)
> 12. 08:05 AM - Re: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator (Darwin N.
Barrie)
> 13. 08:36 AM - The First Palmetto RV FlyIn Cookout (Ken Harrill)
> 14. 09:08 AM - Band Saws ()
> 15. 09:42 AM - Garmin 430 Install tray for sale (N223RV@aol.com)
> 16. 09:49 AM - Band Saws ()
> 17. 10:08 AM - Re: Re: Fiber post lights; was non-U.S. parts suppliers
(Brian Kraut)
> 18. 10:14 AM - Re: Band Saws (Ned Thomas)
> 19. 10:15 AM - Re: Band Saws (Charlie & Tupper England)
> 20. 10:29 AM - Light Weight Gear Leg for RV-8 (Fly2eat@aol.com)
> 21. 11:02 AM - Re: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator (Mickey
Coggins)
> 22. 11:38 AM - Re:Carbon Panel (Jerry2DT@aol.com)
> 23. 12:31 PM - 2 new building resources (Paul Eastham)
> 24. 12:42 PM - Re: Instrument lighting with LEDs (Robin Wessel)
> 25. 12:52 PM - Re: Band Saws (Curt)
> 26. 01:13 PM - Re: Light Weight Gear Leg for RV-8 (Mauri Morin)
> 27. 02:06 PM - Re: 2 new building resources (Frank van der Hulst
(Staff WG))
> 28. 02:09 PM - Re: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator (Douglas A.
Fischer)
> 29. 02:52 PM - Re: Band Saws (Craig Warner)
> 30. 03:41 PM - Re: Band Saws (Jim Oke)
> 31. 05:17 PM - Re: Band Saws (Ned Thomas)
> 32. 06:03 PM - RV 4 Alternator (John Mcmahon)
> 33. 06:39 PM - > Re: Band Saws (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
> 34. 06:46 PM - Re: RV 4 Alternator (Doug Weiler)
> 35. 06:56 PM - intersection fairings (Dave Ford)
> 36. 07:17 PM - cylinder blocker (Dave Ford)
> 37. 07:46 PM - Re: Dynon Pitot (David Carter)
> 38. 08:06 PM - Re: intersection fairings (N223RV@aol.com)
> 39. 09:12 PM - Re: Light Weight Gear Leg for RV-8 (Tracy Crook)
> 40. 10:22 PM - Odessy Batteries (Darwin N. Barrie)
> 41. 11:13 PM - Re: Odessy Batteries (Jerry Springer)
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 12:49:31 AM PST US
> From: MMcs139808@aol.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Fiber post lights; was non-U.S. parts suppliers
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: MMcs139808@aol.com
>
> Light Aero in the UK has post lights listed in their catalog, you will
find
> them on the web.
>
> Eugene
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 04:07:08 AM PST US
> From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Fiber post lights; was non-U.S. parts suppliers
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
> Gang, since I am not associated with Brian in any fashion I think it's
fair
> game that I comment on his post lights. I knew he had these lights for
sale
> with Spruce and Wicks but I had not seen them. He sent me a set as a door
> prize at last weeks fly-in. Upon opening the box I was immediately
> impressed with the quality of engineering and production that went into
the
> system. The ease if install was obvious. The system is very, very
flexible
> and I am certain will provide very nice illumination of instruments. I
am,
> without a doubt, chucking all my other lighting thoughts, and
> acquisition:-), and will most certainly use his lighting system in Black
> Magic.
>
> To add to my thoughts, when I first saw it, live and in person, my first
> thought was, "he did it right".
>
> www.engalt.com/aviation.htm
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY i39
> RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
> Finish kit
> 13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
> do not archive
>
> One-click access to Hotmail from any Web page download MSN Toolbar now!
> http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200413ave/direct/01/
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 3
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 04:57:47 AM PST US
> From: "N6JX" <n6jx@earthlink.net>
> Subject: RV-List: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "N6JX" <n6jx@earthlink.net>
>
> I had a chance to look at the new TruTrak unit yesterday at the Casa
Grande
> Arizona, Cactus Antique Aircraft fly-in. They will initially have two
> units available, one with roll control like the Digitrak unit and a plain
> turn coordinator without any autopilot functions. No altitude functions
on
> the Autopilot unit, roll control only for now.
>
> I really liked the way the units looked and the way the display moved.
> However, the small size (2 1/4 ) really made the turn coordinator not very
> satisfactory for me. This would be a great instrument if it were in a 3
> inch format. Same is true for the autopilot unit, the display is just too
> small to use if you had to use it as a primary flight instrument. I did
> like the way the airplane stayed level and the horizon pivoted around the
> axis, this was a nice representation and would be really easy to fly from.
> If they bring out a bigger unit, I would probably buy one in a flash.
>
> Mel Jordan
> RV-6A N6JX
> Tucson
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 4
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 05:58:50 AM PST US
> From: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
>
> Hi Mel,
>
> I saw the unit too and was very impressed, especially the price. He told
me
> the unit IS available in the standard size, so I ordered one. The 2.25"
was
> for display. Very, very cool and will look perfect under my Dynon.
>
> Darwin N. Barrie
> Chandler AZ
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "N6JX" <n6jx@earthlink.net>
> Subject: RV-List: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "N6JX" <n6jx@earthlink.net>
> >
> > I had a chance to look at the new TruTrak unit yesterday at the Casa
> Grande
> > Arizona, Cactus Antique Aircraft fly-in. They will initially have two
> > units available, one with roll control like the Digitrak unit and a
plain
> > turn coordinator without any autopilot functions. No altitude functions
> on
> > the Autopilot unit, roll control only for now.
> >
> > I really liked the way the units looked and the way the display moved.
> > However, the small size (2 1/4 ) really made the turn coordinator not
very
> > satisfactory for me. This would be a great instrument if it were in a 3
> > inch format. Same is true for the autopilot unit, the display is just
too
> > small to use if you had to use it as a primary flight instrument. I
did
> > like the way the airplane stayed level and the horizon pivoted around
the
> > axis, this was a nice representation and would be really easy to fly
from.
> > If they bring out a bigger unit, I would probably buy one in a flash.
> >
> > Mel Jordan
> > RV-6A N6JX
> > Tucson
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 5
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 07:06:29 AM PST US
> From: Hopperdhh@aol.com
> Subject: RV-List: Instrument lighting with LEDs
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
> RV Listers,
> I just bought some cheap LED flashlights at a hamfest (a fly mart for ham
> radio people) and am thinking of using them to illuminate my panel. I
bought 10
>
> of these flashlights to experiment with because they have some optics to
> control the light pattern that I thought might help. I want a very low
cost
> approach. Bright LEDs are readily available now at Radio Shack and many
mail order
>
> houses like Digikey. I am thinking of mounting them under the glare
shield
> aimed at the instruments. Has anyone else done this?
>
> LED stands for light emitting diode for any who don't already know. There
> are some really bright LEDs available today. They are much more efficient
than
>
> light bulbs which radiate a lot of energy at longer wavelengths than
light.
> They are also more reliable. Many traffic lights and taillights on cars
are
> now LEDs, and I have heard that LED headlights for cars are not too far
off.
>
> Dan RV-7A (almost done)
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 6
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 07:07:21 AM PST US
> From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
> Subject: RV-List: Air Filter 0-360-A1A
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
>
> List,
> I have run into a problem with the clearance on my FAB 360
airbox being
> close to rubbing the cowl air scope?
> The K&N Air Filter supplied is exactly 7" x 3 1/2 " O.D. I would be
fine
> if the Air Filter was only 3 1/4" High?
> Has anyone else ran into this? It would appear the front my
Airbox
> needs to angle up more to use the existing filter? Sure
don't
> want to cut the box to increase the upward angle and re-glass?
>
> Tom in Ohio
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 7
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 07:07:46 AM PST US
> From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>
> What page of the new Sport Aviation is this product on?
> Charlie Kuss
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
> >
> >Hi Mel,
> >
> >I saw the unit too and was very impressed, especially the price. He told
me
> >the unit IS available in the standard size, so I ordered one. The 2.25"
was
> >for display. Very, very cool and will look perfect under my Dynon.
> >
> >Darwin N. Barrie
> >Chandler AZ
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "N6JX" <n6jx@earthlink.net>
> >To: <RV-List@matronics.com>
> >Subject: RV-List: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator
> >
> >
> >> --> RV-List message posted by: "N6JX" <n6jx@earthlink.net>
> >>
> >> I had a chance to look at the new TruTrak unit yesterday at the Casa
> >Grande
> >> Arizona, Cactus Antique Aircraft fly-in. They will initially have two
> >> units available, one with roll control like the Digitrak unit and a
plain
> >> turn coordinator without any autopilot functions. No altitude
functions
> >on
> >> the Autopilot unit, roll control only for now.
> >>
> >> I really liked the way the units looked and the way the display moved.
> >> However, the small size (2 1/4 ) really made the turn coordinator not
very
> >> satisfactory for me. This would be a great instrument if it were in a
3
> >> inch format. Same is true for the autopilot unit, the display is just
too
> >> small to use if you had to use it as a primary flight instrument. I
did
> >> like the way the airplane stayed level and the horizon pivoted around
the
> >> axis, this was a nice representation and would be really easy to fly
from.
> >> If they bring out a bigger unit, I would probably buy one in a flash.
> >>
> >> Mel Jordan
> >> RV-6A N6JX
> >> Tucson
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 8
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 07:26:55 AM PST US
> From: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
>
> It is on page 55 of the March '04 issue.
>
> Ken
>
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
> From: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
> >
> >What page of the new Sport Aviation is this product on?
> >Charlie Kuss
> >
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 9
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 07:40:13 AM PST US
> From: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
>
> Darwin N. Barrie wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
> >
> >Hi Mel,
> >
> >I saw the unit too and was very impressed, especially the price. He told
me
> >the unit IS available in the standard size, so I ordered one. The 2.25"
was
> >for display. Very, very cool and will look perfect under my Dynon.
> >
> >Darwin N. Barrie
> >Chandler AZ
> >
> >
> >
> Did you get the standard size 3 1/8" turn coordinator without the
> autopilot? I am interested in that. Was it the same price as the 2 1/4"
> $395 I will be very interested in hearing your report after you receive
it.
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 10
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 07:57:21 AM PST US
> From: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
>
> Charlie Kuss wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
> >
> >What page of the new Sport Aviation is this product on?
> >Charlie Kuss
> >
> >
> >
> Sport Aviation, March 2004, page 55
> Not on their web site yet, seem like that would be the first place to
> have it.
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 11
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 08:00:34 AM PST US
> From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
>
> Does anyone know if this is considered a trade up purchase (getting
trade-in
> value for original purchase of the digitrak) for someone already having a
> digitrak and wanting to replace with the new wing leveler with TC?
>
> Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
> Firewall Forward
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
> >
> > Hi Mel,
> >
> > I saw the unit too and was very impressed, especially the price. He told
> me
> > the unit IS available in the standard size, so I ordered one. The 2.25"
> was
> > for display. Very, very cool and will look perfect under my Dynon.
> >
> > Darwin N. Barrie
> > Chandler AZ
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "N6JX" <n6jx@earthlink.net>
> > To: <RV-List@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "N6JX" <n6jx@earthlink.net>
> > >
> > > I had a chance to look at the new TruTrak unit yesterday at the Casa
> > Grande
> > > Arizona, Cactus Antique Aircraft fly-in. They will initially have
two
> > > units available, one with roll control like the Digitrak unit and a
> plain
> > > turn coordinator without any autopilot functions. No altitude
functions
> > on
> > > the Autopilot unit, roll control only for now.
> > >
> > > I really liked the way the units looked and the way the display moved.
> > > However, the small size (2 1/4 ) really made the turn coordinator not
> very
> > > satisfactory for me. This would be a great instrument if it were in a
3
> > > inch format. Same is true for the autopilot unit, the display is just
> too
> > > small to use if you had to use it as a primary flight instrument. I
> did
> > > like the way the airplane stayed level and the horizon pivoted around
> the
> > > axis, this was a nice representation and would be really easy to fly
> from.
> > > If they bring out a bigger unit, I would probably buy one in a flash.
> > >
> > > Mel Jordan
> > > RV-6A N6JX
> > > Tucson
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 12
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 08:05:30 AM PST US
> From: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
>
> Yes, according to Richard Martin who was representing TruTrak the turn
> coordinator alone is available in the 3 1/8" version. They only had the
> 2.25" for display.
>
> It is very cool. It looks like much like a standard Artificial Horizon
with
> out the pitch component. Standard looking slip/skid ball. The unit is
> electric and spools up immediately. The display unit had an internal
battery
> so people could test it out. The bank indicator is very sensitive.
>
> Just from the 10 minutes I played with it I believe it is the perfect
> addition to the Dynon or other EFIS.
>
> Darwin N. Barrie
> Chandler AZ
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bobby Hester" <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
> >
> > Darwin N. Barrie wrote:
> >
> > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
> > >
> > >Hi Mel,
> > >
> > >I saw the unit too and was very impressed, especially the price. He
told
> me
> > >the unit IS available in the standard size, so I ordered one. The 2.25"
> was
> > >for display. Very, very cool and will look perfect under my Dynon.
> > >
> > >Darwin N. Barrie
> > >Chandler AZ
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > Did you get the standard size 3 1/8" turn coordinator without the
> > autopilot? I am interested in that. Was it the same price as the 2 1/4"
> > $395 I will be very interested in hearing your report after you receive
> it.
> >
> > --
> > Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> > Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> > RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 13
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 08:36:13 AM PST US
> From: Ken Harrill <KHarrill@osa.state.sc.us>
> Subject: RV-List: The First Palmetto RV FlyIn Cookout
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Ken Harrill <KHarrill@osa.state.sc.us>
>
>
> The Palmetto Wing of Van's Air Force
>
> Invites any and all RV pilots/flyers/builders/etc. to the
>
> FIRST PALMETTO RV FLYIN COOKOUT
>
> Saturday, March 20th
>
> Columbia Downtown Owens Field Airport
> Columbia, SC
>
> Palmetto Burgers and Carolina Dogs
> Grills will be fired up at 11:00 AM
>
>
> No Program
> No Vendors
> No Speeches
> No Organization
> No Charge
> (Donations Accepted)
>
> Just good food, RV's, and friendly conversation.
>
>
> www.airnav.com/airport/KCUB
> Note right traffic for runway 13
>
>
> Taxi toward the east end of the field (toward Rwy 31) and look for the
> crowd.
>
> If you plan to come email Ken.Harrill@Columbia.SC so we can buy enough
food.
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 14
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 09:08:01 AM PST US
> From: <nyman@bellsouth.net>
> Subject: RV-List: Band Saws
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: <nyman@bellsouth.net>
>
> I am looking for a band saw and I found this one at Harbor Freight. After
going
> thru the archives, it sounds like just about any band saw will work.
Anyone
> have experience with Central Machinery brand? Is the following a good
deal?
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
>
> Precision three-wheeled design cuts material up to 12'' wide and makes
bevel cuts
> from 0 to 60 Electronic variable speed switch controls the speed of the
blade
> from 0 to 2645 feet per minute. Three ball bearing blade guide system
eliminates
> the blade from slipping. Includes miter gauge, trunion assembly, hex
wrenches,
> and extra set of carbon brushes. Blade sold separately.
> Motor: 115V, 3.5 amps, single phase
> Table: slotted cast aluminum: 13-1/2'' x 13-1/2''
> Work capacity: 12'' x 4-1/8'' high
> Requires 62'' blade
> Overall dimensions: 24-7/8''L x 13-1/2''W x 22-3/4''H
> Tool weight: 30 lbs.
> ITEM 40981-5VGA
> $109.99
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 15
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 09:42:27 AM PST US
> From: N223RV@aol.com
> Subject: RV-List: Garmin 430 Install tray for sale
> rv-list@matronics.com, vansairforce@yahoogroups.com
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
>
> I have a brand new Garmin 430 install tray for sale. It includes the
tray,
> back plate with BNC connectors, all the pins, connectors, etc. All brand
new,
>
> never been touched. I think they sell for around $180, I'll sell it for
$150
> or best offer. Please e-mail offline. Thanks
>
> Do Not Archive
>
> -Mike Kraus
> N223RV RV-4 Flying
> N213RV RV-10 Empennage
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 16
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 09:49:13 AM PST US
> From: <nyman@bellsouth.net>
> Subject: RV-List: Band Saws
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: <nyman@bellsouth.net>
>
> I am looking for a band saw and I found this one at Harbor Freight. After
going
> thru the archives, it sounds like just about any band saw will work.
Anyone
> have experience with Central Machinery brand? Is the following a good
deal?
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
>
> Precision three-wheeled design cuts material up to 12'' wide and makes
bevel cuts
> from 0 to 60 Electronic variable speed switch controls the speed of the
blade
> from 0 to 2645 feet per minute. Three ball bearing blade guide system
eliminates
> the blade from slipping. Includes miter gauge, trunion assembly, hex
wrenches,
> and extra set of carbon brushes. Blade sold separately.
> Motor: 115V, 3.5 amps, single phase
> Table: slotted cast aluminum: 13-1/2'' x 13-1/2''
> Work capacity: 12'' x 4-1/8'' high
> Requires 62'' blade
> Overall dimensions: 24-7/8''L x 13-1/2''W x 22-3/4''H
> Tool weight: 30 lbs.
> ITEM 40981-5VGA
> $109.99
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 17
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 10:08:10 AM PST US
> From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Fiber post lights; was non-U.S. parts suppliers
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
>
> Thanks. I will check them out.
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
> From: MMcs139808@aol.com
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: MMcs139808@aol.com
> >
> >Light Aero in the UK has post lights listed in their catalog, you will
find
> >them on the web.
> >
> >Eugene
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 18
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 10:14:40 AM PST US
> From: "Ned Thomas" <315@cox.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Band Saws
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ned Thomas" <315@cox.net>
>
> Hi Steve,
>
> I bought that saw when it was on sale last month for $99. I took it back
for
> a refund. It was an alright saw but is primariuly for cutting wood. I took
> it back because the guide wheels are NOT adjustable. Harbor Freight has
no
> metal cuting saw blades for it. I did order a 50' 24 tPI blade and had
some
> welded to fit (62") but when I tried to install them they were too thick.
> That is when I found that the guide wheels would not adjust.
>
> Hope this helps,
> Ned
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <nyman@bellsouth.net>
> Subject: RV-List: Band Saws
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: <nyman@bellsouth.net>
> >
> > I am looking for a band saw and I found this one at Harbor Freight.
After
> going thru the archives, it sounds like just about any band saw will work.
> Anyone have experience with Central Machinery brand? Is the following a
good
> deal?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Steve
> >
> > Precision three-wheeled design cuts material up to 12'' wide and makes
> bevel cuts from 0 to 60 Electronic variable speed switch controls the
speed
> of the blade from 0 to 2645 feet per minute. Three ball bearing blade
guide
> system eliminates the blade from slipping. Includes miter gauge, trunion
> assembly, hex wrenches, and extra set of carbon brushes. Blade sold
> separately.
> > Motor: 115V, 3.5 amps, single phase
> > Table: slotted cast aluminum: 13-1/2'' x 13-1/2''
> > Work capacity: 12'' x 4-1/8'' high
> > Requires 62'' blade
> > Overall dimensions: 24-7/8''L x 13-1/2''W x 22-3/4''H
> > Tool weight: 30 lbs.
> > ITEM 40981-5VGA
> > $109.99
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 19
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 10:15:33 AM PST US
> From: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Band Saws
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England
<cengland@netdoor.com>
>
> nyman@bellsouth.net wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: <nyman@bellsouth.net>
> >
> >I am looking for a band saw and I found this one at Harbor Freight.
After going
> thru the archives, it sounds like just about any band saw will work.
Anyone
> have experience with Central Machinery brand? Is the following a good
deal?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Steve
> >
> If you want mine (bought about 13 years ago & never made a cut without
> the blade coming off), you can have it if you will come & get it.
>
> Charlie
> Slobovia Outernational Airport, Jackson MS
>
>
> >
> >Precision three-wheeled design cuts material up to 12'' wide and makes
bevel cuts
> from 0 to 60 Electronic variable speed switch controls the speed of the
blade
> from 0 to 2645 feet per minute. Three ball bearing blade guide system
eliminates
> the blade from slipping. Includes miter gauge, trunion assembly, hex
wrenches,
> and extra set of carbon brushes. Blade sold separately.
> >Motor: 115V, 3.5 amps, single phase
> >Table: slotted cast aluminum: 13-1/2'' x 13-1/2''
> >Work capacity: 12'' x 4-1/8'' high
> >Requires 62'' blade
> >Overall dimensions: 24-7/8''L x 13-1/2''W x 22-3/4''H
> >Tool weight: 30 lbs.
> >ITEM 40981-5VGA
> >$109.99
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 20
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 10:29:22 AM PST US
> From: Fly2eat@aol.com
> Subject: RV-List: Light Weight Gear Leg for RV-8
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Fly2eat@aol.com
>
> Any one know of a source for lighter weight gear legs for the RV-8. I
have
> seen them mentioned in the past, even with brake lines enclosed. L.D.
> Jeffries. RV-8QB
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 21
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 11:02:40 AM PST US
> From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
>
> >Not on their web site yet, seem like that would be the first place to
> >have it.
>
> "Huh? Internet? What's that?"
>
> Oh well. I guess I have to wait until the magazine gets here.
> It's a shame - these computers get you used to instant gratification.
>
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
> do not archive
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 22
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 11:38:36 AM PST US
> From: Jerry2DT@aol.com
> Subject: RV-List: Re:Carbon Panel
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
>
> Evan...
>
> I know laminated carbon is pretty easy to cut or drill. I wonder about
> cutting with a laser though. As an experiment I held a propane torch to a
piece
> of
> carbon which glowed red hot, but when cool, seemed to have not changed a
bit,
> wouldn't break easily at all. Then took some laminated carbon did the
same,
> epoxy caught fire, burned out, carbon still intact. Interesting stuff, so
I
> wonder what temp will cut it? Just noodling here, do not archive.
>
> Jerry Cochran
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
<evmeg@snowcrest.net>
>
> I bet I could get flat sheets laser cut....never tried carbon fiber but
the
> laser cuts metals, plywood and plastics with no problems. I just had an
RV6
> (aluminum stock one)panel cut for a friend of mine and it turned out
awsome.
> I got to do the whole layout on Autocad and then watch the laser cut it
> perfectly....the cut is just a few thousands thick.
>
> Evan
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 23
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 12:31:28 PM PST US
> From: Paul Eastham <eastham@netapp.com>
> Subject: RV-List: 2 new building resources
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Eastham <eastham@netapp.com>
>
> Tired of riveting on parts that you later learn to be defective? Yep,
> there it is, right in the archives, other people have gotten the bad
> part too. Van's even knows about it, but for some reason they didn't
> tell the rest of us...
>
> Found errors in the documentation? Sure, we all have. You probably
> realized the problem before you hurt your airplane, but what about the
> next guy?
>
> Reduce the amount of suffering in the RV community. Register any
> parts defects and construction manual errors you find, so new builders
> can go and make notes *before* they repeat history:
>
> http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv/defect.html (parts defects)
> http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv/manual.html (construction manual
errata)
>
> Please invest a moment to help us newbies! :)
>
> Regards,
> Paul
> RV-9A wings
> http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 24
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 12:42:56 PM PST US
> From: "Robin Wessel" <Robin.Wessel@verizon.net>
> Subject: RV-List: re: Instrument lighting with LEDs
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Robin Wessel" <Robin.Wessel@verizon.net>
>
> Check our HYPERLINK "http://www.lumileds.com"www.lumileds.com for their
> line of Luxeon Star LED's that I bought from HYPERLINK
> "http://www.luxeonstar.com"www.luxeonstar.com . The new Audi A8 will
> feature what appears to be their 5W star's in a 5 light cluster for
> headlamps.
>
> I built some nav lights using 3 of their star LED's and a simple current
> regulator using an LM317 and a 3.6 Ohm resistor for my RV-10 project.
> The light output is definitely brighter than a typical incandescent
> source and the current draw is about 1 amp compared to 2.5 amps for a
> reg. bulb.
>
> A link to the current regulator circuit is at: HYPERLINK
> "http://linear1.org/gm/archives/00000147.php"http://linear1.org/gm/archi
> ves/00000147.php
>
> I plan on using the Star LED's for the interior as well. They are
> available with different lens patterns, colors, and outputs. Although
> they cost about $10 a piece, they are easy to mount and 1 Star is a lot
> brighter than multiple $2 super brights. They also sell some wide
> dispersion board mount styles that many of the auto vendors currently
> use for IP lighting.
>
> The concept I have is a to use one of each of the primaries clustered in
> a color mixing flood configuration so that I can change the interior
> lighting to any color I want.
>
> Other ideas- the local PC stores are selling EL strip lighting kits with
> 12V inverters for less than $20. Although designed to light up your PC
> box (don't ask me why!) I think that they would make great
> under-glareshield lights for real cheap.
>
> Robin Wessel
> rv-10 wings
> Tigard, OR
> HYPERLINK "http://robin.getbiz.net"http://robin.getbiz.net
>
> ---
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 25
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 12:52:17 PM PST US
> From: "Curt" <choffman9@cinci.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Band Saws
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Curt" <choffman9@cinci.rr.com>
>
> I bought that same band saw many years ago. Very difficult to find metal
> blades for it. I had to have a few made up special. Then they easily snap
> when cutting anything of any significance. I finally sold it for $20 bucks
> with no blades. Now that I am working on the RV-9 there have only been a
> couple times when I wish I had one. But not enough to actually go buy one
> yet. If I do, I will buy a good one and one that I know there are blades
> for.
>
> Curt Hoffman
>
> RV-9A Wings done, QB fuselage, tail about done
> Cherokee N5320W
> TR6 back to running with HS6 SUs
> Harley Road King Classic
> Maybe I need a sailboat
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <nyman@bellsouth.net>
> Subject: RV-List: Band Saws
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: <nyman@bellsouth.net>
> >
> > I am looking for a band saw and I found this one at Harbor Freight.
After
> going thru the archives, it sounds like just about any band saw will work.
> Anyone have experience with Central Machinery brand? Is the following a
good
> deal?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Steve
> >
> > Precision three-wheeled design cuts material up to 12'' wide and makes
> bevel cuts from 0 to 60 Electronic variable speed switch controls the
speed
> of the blade from 0 to 2645 feet per minute. Three ball bearing blade
guide
> system eliminates the blade from slipping. Includes miter gauge, trunion
> assembly, hex wrenches, and extra set of carbon brushes. Blade sold
> separately.
> > Motor: 115V, 3.5 amps, single phase
> > Table: slotted cast aluminum: 13-1/2'' x 13-1/2''
> > Work capacity: 12'' x 4-1/8'' high
> > Requires 62'' blade
> > Overall dimensions: 24-7/8''L x 13-1/2''W x 22-3/4''H
> > Tool weight: 30 lbs.
> > ITEM 40981-5VGA
> > $109.99
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 26
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 01:13:53 PM PST US
> From: "Mauri Morin" <maurv8@bigsky.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Light Weight Gear Leg for RV-8
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mauri Morin" <maurv8@bigsky.net>
>
> http://www.groveaircraft.com/rv8.html
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Fly2eat@aol.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Light Weight Gear Leg for RV-8
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Fly2eat@aol.com
> >
> > Any one know of a source for lighter weight gear legs for the RV-8. I
> have
> > seen them mentioned in the past, even with brake lines enclosed. L.D.
> > Jeffries. RV-8QB
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 27
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 02:06:19 PM PST US
> Subject: RE: RV-List: 2 new building resources
> From: "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst@ucol.ac.nz>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)"
<F.vanderHulst@ucol.ac.nz>
>
> Paul,
>
> This is similar to what I had in mind when I began the "Bunny's Guide to
> RV Building" site.
>
> See http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/bunnys-guide/rv/bunny/
>
> It doesn't really aim to correct specific 'errors' in the Manual -- more
> like fill in many of the gaps. Similarly with 'parts defects' -- it's
> more about how to work-around slightly mis-fitting parts than to
> document whether or not they are mis-fitting.
>
> I suspect that some RV-9 (and a lot of RV-7 stuff) will still be
> more-or-less the same as the RV-6, so its probably worth your while
> having a skim through.
>
> Frank
> (self-appointed keeper of the Guide)
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Eastham <eastham@netapp.com>
>
> Reduce the amount of suffering in the RV community. Register any parts
> defects and construction manual errors you find, so new builders can go
> and make notes *before* they repeat history:
> Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
> at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
> (0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
> and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
> Learning.
>
> Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
> future
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 28
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 02:09:57 PM PST US
> From: "Douglas A. Fischer" <dfischer@iserv.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Douglas A. Fischer" <dfischer@iserv.net>
>
> From the picture in Sport Aviation, it looks as though when you upgrade to
> the Autopilot combo version you lose the skid ball. That makes it an AP /
> Turn-and-Bank and not an AP / Turn Coordinator. Since I'm looking for IFR
> eventually, this doesn't really save anything for me, since I still want
an
> actual TC. Maybe the Standard size instrument varies from the photo and
has
> the ball. I'm considering a TruTrak AP and a combo AP/ TC (like the
S-Tec)
> would be nice, but from the pic it looks like the TruTrak falls short of
> this. Too bad.
>
> Doug Fischer
> -9A Wings
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
> >
> > Yes, according to Richard Martin who was representing TruTrak the turn
> > coordinator alone is available in the 3 1/8" version. They only had the
> > 2.25" for display.
> >
> > It is very cool. It looks like much like a standard Artificial Horizon
> with
> > out the pitch component. Standard looking slip/skid ball. The unit is
> > electric and spools up immediately. The display unit had an internal
> battery
> > so people could test it out. The bank indicator is very sensitive.
> >
> > Just from the 10 minutes I played with it I believe it is the perfect
> > addition to the Dynon or other EFIS.
> >
> > Darwin N. Barrie
> > Chandler AZ
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bobby Hester" <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: TruTrak Auto-pilot w/turn coordinator
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
> > >
> > > Darwin N. Barrie wrote:
> > >
> > > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
> > > >
> > > >Hi Mel,
> > > >
> > > >I saw the unit too and was very impressed, especially the price. He
> told
> > me
> > > >the unit IS available in the standard size, so I ordered one. The
2.25"
> > was
> > > >for display. Very, very cool and will look perfect under my Dynon.
> > > >
> > > >Darwin N. Barrie
> > > >Chandler AZ
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > Did you get the standard size 3 1/8" turn coordinator without the
> > > autopilot? I am interested in that. Was it the same price as the 2
1/4"
> > > $395 I will be very interested in hearing your report after you
receive
> > it.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> > > Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> > > RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 29
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 02:52:10 PM PST US
> From: "Craig Warner" <cwarner@twcny.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Band Saws
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Craig Warner" <cwarner@twcny.rr.com>
>
> I bought a Delta bench top band saw for $88 from a local building supply
> store. Take the blade off and go to a machine tool supply house like
Do-All.
> They can recommend theeth per inch, blade width, and thickness. I bought
two
> blades for $16. Just watch out for metal flakes building up on the rubber
> tires the blade rides on. Otherwise it works well.
>
> Craig warner 6A still building
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Curt" <choffman9@cinci.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Band Saws
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Curt" <choffman9@cinci.rr.com>
> >
> > I bought that same band saw many years ago. Very difficult to find metal
> > blades for it. I had to have a few made up special. Then they easily
snap
> > when cutting anything of any significance. I finally sold it for $20
bucks
> > with no blades. Now that I am working on the RV-9 there have only been a
> > couple times when I wish I had one. But not enough to actually go buy
one
> > yet. If I do, I will buy a good one and one that I know there are blades
> > for.
> >
> > Curt Hoffman
> >
> > RV-9A Wings done, QB fuselage, tail about done
> > Cherokee N5320W
> > TR6 back to running with HS6 SUs
> > Harley Road King Classic
> > Maybe I need a sailboat
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <nyman@bellsouth.net>
> > To: <RV-List@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: Band Saws
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: <nyman@bellsouth.net>
> > >
> > > I am looking for a band saw and I found this one at Harbor Freight.
> After
> > going thru the archives, it sounds like just about any band saw will
work.
> > Anyone have experience with Central Machinery brand? Is the following a
> good
> > deal?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Steve
> > >
> > > Precision three-wheeled design cuts material up to 12'' wide and makes
> > bevel cuts from 0 to 60 Electronic variable speed switch controls the
> speed
> > of the blade from 0 to 2645 feet per minute. Three ball bearing blade
> guide
> > system eliminates the blade from slipping. Includes miter gauge, trunion
> > assembly, hex wrenches, and extra set of carbon brushes. Blade sold
> > separately.
> > > Motor: 115V, 3.5 amps, single phase
> > > Table: slotted cast aluminum: 13-1/2'' x 13-1/2''
> > > Work capacity: 12'' x 4-1/8'' high
> > > Requires 62'' blade
> > > Overall dimensions: 24-7/8''L x 13-1/2''W x 22-3/4''H
> > > Tool weight: 30 lbs.
> > > ITEM 40981-5VGA
> > > $109.99
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 30
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 03:41:11 PM PST US
> From: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Band Saws
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
>
> The need for a metal cutting blade depends what you intend to cut with the
> band saw. I have had reasonable success with a simple wood blade when
> cutting material up to 3/16" thick when roughing out fittings from 6061
> angle and .063 2024 sheet. Thinner stiff bends however.
>
> If you want to cut steel, well a metal cutting blade is pretty much
needed.
>
> Equally important as the blade type and teeth per inch is controlling
blade
> speed - usually with a series of step pulleys. These are what the low end
> machines lack and what makes them unsuitable for even semi-serious metal
> work.
>
> Jim Oke
> RV-3, RV-6A
> Winnipeg, MB
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Craig Warner" <cwarner@twcny.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Band Saws
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Craig Warner" <cwarner@twcny.rr.com>
> >
> > I bought a Delta bench top band saw for $88 from a local building supply
> > store. Take the blade off and go to a machine tool supply house like
> Do-All.
> > They can recommend theeth per inch, blade width, and thickness. I bought
> two
> > blades for $16. Just watch out for metal flakes building up on the
rubber
> > tires the blade rides on. Otherwise it works well.
> >
> > Craig warner 6A still building
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Curt" <choffman9@cinci.rr.com>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Band Saws
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Curt" <choffman9@cinci.rr.com>
> > >
> > > I bought that same band saw many years ago. Very difficult to find
metal
> > > blades for it. I had to have a few made up special. Then they easily
> snap
> > > when cutting anything of any significance. I finally sold it for $20
> bucks
> > > with no blades. Now that I am working on the RV-9 there have only been
a
> > > couple times when I wish I had one. But not enough to actually go buy
> one
> > > yet. If I do, I will buy a good one and one that I know there are
blades
> > > for.
> > >
> > > Curt Hoffman
> > >
> > > RV-9A Wings done, QB fuselage, tail about done
> > > Cherokee N5320W
> > > TR6 back to running with HS6 SUs
> > > Harley Road King Classic
> > > Maybe I need a sailboat
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: <nyman@bellsouth.net>
> > > To: <RV-List@matronics.com>
> > > Subject: RV-List: Band Saws
> > >
> > >
> > > > --> RV-List message posted by: <nyman@bellsouth.net>
> > > >
> > > > I am looking for a band saw and I found this one at Harbor Freight.
> > After
> > > going thru the archives, it sounds like just about any band saw will
> work.
> > > Anyone have experience with Central Machinery brand? Is the following
a
> > good
> > > deal?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Steve
> > > >
> > > > Precision three-wheeled design cuts material up to 12'' wide and
makes
> > > bevel cuts from 0 to 60 Electronic variable speed switch controls the
> > speed
> > > of the blade from 0 to 2645 feet per minute. Three ball bearing blade
> > guide
> > > system eliminates the blade from slipping. Includes miter gauge,
trunion
> > > assembly, hex wrenches, and extra set of carbon brushes. Blade sold
> > > separately.
> > > > Motor: 115V, 3.5 amps, single phase
> > > > Table: slotted cast aluminum: 13-1/2'' x 13-1/2''
> > > > Work capacity: 12'' x 4-1/8'' high
> > > > Requires 62'' blade
> > > > Overall dimensions: 24-7/8''L x 13-1/2''W x 22-3/4''H
> > > > Tool weight: 30 lbs.
> > > > ITEM 40981-5VGA
> > > > $109.99
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 31
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 05:17:23 PM PST US
> From: "Ned Thomas" <315@cox.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Band Saws
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ned Thomas" <315@cox.net>
>
> Hey Charli,
>
> I'm always looking for an excuse to fly:) Can I stop by on my way back
from
> Sun N Fun and pick it up while meeting a fellow RV enthusiast?
>
> NEd
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Charlie & Tupper England" <cengland@netdoor.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Band Saws
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England
> <cengland@netdoor.com>
> >
> > nyman@bellsouth.net wrote:
> >
> > >--> RV-List message posted by: <nyman@bellsouth.net>
> > >
> > >I am looking for a band saw and I found this one at Harbor Freight.
> After going thru the archives, it sounds like just about any band saw will
> work. Anyone have experience with Central Machinery brand? Is the
following
> a good deal?
> > >
> > >Thanks,
> > >Steve
> > >
> > If you want mine (bought about 13 years ago & never made a cut without
> > the blade coming off), you can have it if you will come & get it.
> >
> > Charlie
> > Slobovia Outernational Airport, Jackson MS
> >
> >
> > >
> > >Precision three-wheeled design cuts material up to 12'' wide and makes
> bevel cuts from 0 to 60 Electronic variable speed switch controls the
speed
> of the blade from 0 to 2645 feet per minute. Three ball bearing blade
guide
> system eliminates the blade from slipping. Includes miter gauge, trunion
> assembly, hex wrenches, and extra set of carbon brushes. Blade sold
> separately.
> > >Motor: 115V, 3.5 amps, single phase
> > >Table: slotted cast aluminum: 13-1/2'' x 13-1/2''
> > >Work capacity: 12'' x 4-1/8'' high
> > >Requires 62'' blade
> > >Overall dimensions: 24-7/8''L x 13-1/2''W x 22-3/4''H
> > >Tool weight: 30 lbs.
> > >ITEM 40981-5VGA
> > >$109.99
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 32
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 06:03:37 PM PST US
> From: John Mcmahon <rv6@earthlink.net>
> Subject: RV-List: RV 4 Alternator
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: John Mcmahon <rv6@earthlink.net>
>
> Anyone out in RV4 land that may know who makes the smallest diameter
> alternator for the 0320 ...I have a friend that has the frame of the
> unit touching
> the cowl ,not the pulley!!! Thanks for any help..
>
> John McMahon RV6 (near paint)
>
> Do Not archive
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 33
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 06:39:38 PM PST US
> From: Oldsfolks@aol.com
> Subject: RV-List: > Re: Band Saws
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
>
> I bought a band saw from Harbor Freight in 1982. I bought it on the phone
for
> $300.00. A few months later a friend bought the same saw for $169.00.
The
> same one now is $199.
> I have built two RV-4's plus steel tubing hangar doors and sundry other
> items. I used the wood cutting blade for all things aluminum,and metal
cutting
>
> blade for steel. I'm still using it almost every day.
> I have adjusted the wheel angles so the blade stays on OK.
> I think it is well worth the money.
>
>
> Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
> A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
> Charleston,Arkansas
> Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 34
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 06:46:08 PM PST US
> From: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil@pressenter.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV 4 Alternator
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil@pressenter.com>
>
> I have a 40 amp B&C alternator that fit my 0-360 RV-4 with plenty of
> clearance.
>
> Doug Weiler
> Hudson, WI
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Mcmahon" <rv6@earthlink.net>
> Subject: RV-List: RV 4 Alternator
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: John Mcmahon <rv6@earthlink.net>
> >
> > Anyone out in RV4 land that may know who makes the smallest diameter
> > alternator for the 0320 ...I have a friend that has the frame of the
> > unit touching
> > the cowl ,not the pulley!!! Thanks for any help..
> >
> > John McMahon RV6 (near paint)
> >
> > Do Not archive
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 35
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 06:56:02 PM PST US
> From: "Dave Ford" <dford@michweb.net>
> Subject: RV-List: intersection fairings
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Ford" <dford@michweb.net>
>
> Am making my own intersection fairings and wondered if the lowers are
normally
> glassed into the wheel pants and split, or separate and "floating" as the
uppers
> are?
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 36
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 07:17:01 PM PST US
> From: "Dave Ford" <dford@michweb.net>
> Subject: RV-List: cylinder blocker
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Ford" <dford@michweb.net>
>
> >I'm going to fabricate some .020"
> >blockers out of AL, and just rivet them to the lower ramps.
>
>
> Exactly what I did. I had a 30 degree difference with cyl 1 being the
> lowest. Put a 1 inch hi wall in front of the fins on cyl #1 and now in
> normal cruise my temps are all same at 335 +- 1 on all cylinders. I never
> though getting cyl temps that close was possible.
> ------
> Is it a good idea to make the blocker a 90deg block or more of a 45 or
60deg ramp
> to smoothly direct air flow to the rear cylinder?
>
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 37
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 07:46:38 PM PST US
> From: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon Pitot
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
> Wheeler,
>
> Can you help me visualize how you "sliced on the bottom at angles one for
> each axis"? so you could adjust/shim the device so precisely?
>
> David
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
> Subject: RV-List: Dynon Pitot
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
> >
> > The dynon pitot is a standard pitot, with a flat spot and a hole down
> below
> > the pitot entrance for the AOA pressure.
> >
> > It provides the same values for the pitot that Van's pitot does.
> >
> > It is not a static source like some pitot tubes are, so you will need to
> use
> > Vans simple system or ???
> >
> > RE compass module.
> >
> > Mine in in outer rt wing, fwd of spar. I used two peices of wood .75" x
> > 1.75" x 4" long sliced on the bottom at angles one for each axis. This
> > allowed me to shim on each axis separately until it was inside of .2 deg
> in
> > aligment with the D10. Then I bonded it all together and final shimed it
> > with tape. The hold down screws were ss #6 flush head that were screwed
up
> > through the top peice of wood, then I used the plastic stand off nuts
used
> > on circuit boards to hold the module down.
> >
> > This was the only place on my plane that allows 12" of separation from
all
> > iron and wires.
> >
> > W
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 38
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 08:06:31 PM PST US
> From: N223RV@aol.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: intersection fairings
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
>
> Mine are separate and screwed to the wheel pants with #8 screws and nut
> plates on the wheel pants.
>
> -Mike Kraus
> N223RV RV-4 Flying
> N213RV RV-10 Empennage
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 39
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 09:12:14 PM PST US
> From: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Light Weight Gear Leg for RV-8
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
>
> I used the Grove aluminum gear on my RV-8. Got the streamlined version so
no fairing
> is required. Saves about 15 pounds.
>
> Tracy Crook
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Fly2eat@aol.com
>
> Any one know of a source for lighter weight gear legs for the RV-8. I
have
> seen them mentioned in the past, even with brake lines enclosed. L.D.
> Jeffries. RV-8QB
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 40
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 10:22:50 PM PST US
> From: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
> <RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Odessy Batteries
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
>
> Hi All,
>
> I apologize for this message!! I thought I had saved the information on
the Odessy
> batteries but apparently not. The archives suck so I need to post to the
group.
>
> Where is the best place to get the PC860 with the most reasonable shipping
costs?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Darwin N. Barrie
> Chandler AZ
> Doin' the wiring!!
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 41
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 11:13:59 PM PST US
> From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Odessy Batteries
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>
> Darwin N. Barrie wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
> >
> >Hi All,
> >
> >I apologize for this message!! I thought I had saved the information on
the Odessy
> batteries but apparently not. The archives suck so I need to post to the
> group.
> >
> >Where is the best place to get the PC860 with the most reasonable
shipping costs?
> >
> >Thanks in advance.
> >
> >Darwin N. Barrie
> >Chandler AZ
> >Doin' the wiring!!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> Try spelling it Odyssey and maybe you won't think the archives suck so
> bad. :-)
>
> Jerry
>
>
Message 45
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| Subject: | Re: experience with prop governor on fresh engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Got it working tonight, after talking to Ken Balch, Tom Green at Van's, Bart
at AeroSport Power, and after reading various helpful responses (thanks!).
Took off the governor oil hose, blew it out to confirm it wasn't blocked.
Nothing but a little oil came out, and it was clear.
I tweaked the prop cable and governor arm adjustments and got a *tiny* bit
more travel. It now gets maybe 80% of full travel. Tom Green confirmed
that you don't need full governor actuation, as long as the fine pitch stop
is hit.
Then I ran it up to 2000 RPM instead of 1800, and I was getting 400-500 RPM
drops and the prop was much more responsive. Problem seems to have gone
away...not quite sure which of the above factors did it...would have done
more isolation testing if I wasn't trying to minimize ground run-time.
I figure I'm done running this puppy until first flight.
Thanks again for the responses,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: experience with prop governor on fresh engine
> I started my engine (AeroSport IO-360-A1B6) for the first time on
Saturday,
> and everything went perfectly with the exception of the prop (Hartzell
C2YK)
> not cycling. At 1700 RPM, I pulled the prop control all the way out and
> nothing happened after 3 seconds. Back to full forward. Another try,
> nothing happened for 5 seconds. Total running time was about 9 minutes.
>
> I figured, and others mentioned, that the likelihood is that oil is still
> slowly getting up to the prop hub, and that eventually it'll work. I
> temporarily disconnected the end of the prop oil hose and it there was oil
> there. Cool, I guess I can live with this for now...look forward to
testing
> it again on the 2nd run.
>
> Today I ran it for the second time to do some more tests. At 1800 RPM, I
> pulled the prop control and held it for 5 seconds, nothing. Repeated
that,
> nothing. Then, finally on the 3rd try it started to cycle. After a few
> cycles, the most I could get it to do was drop from 1800 RPM down to 1650
or
> so. That's with the prop control pulled out and held out for several
> seconds. Today's engine running time, 6 minutes. Total engine running
> time, 15 minutes.
>
> Now...I have to throw out a couple of data points:
>
> a) I have the "new" Jihostroj (aka "MT") prop governor that I bought from
> Van's with my FWF kit.
>
> b) Because of limited cable travel, the arm on the governor doesn't hit
the
> full-out stop. I have the cable adjusted so that the governor arm does
hit
> the fine pitch stop, but when I pull the control all the way out, it goes
> maybe 75% of the way through the arc. Van's FWF instructions mentioned
that
> it's not critical that the coarse pitch stop be hit...but of course I'm
> skeptical.
>
> So here are my questions:
>
> 1) I would like to see a bigger RPM drop than 150 RPM! I expect it would
be
> capable of producing a 500 RPM drop or thereabouts. Is it normal behavior
> that a prop hub would take a while to fill up and become responsive? Has
> anybody else experienced this, where eventually the hub fills up enough to
> be normally responsive? I'd rather not keep running the engine on the
> ground if I can avoid it.
>
> 2) Does anybody know if Jihostroj or any other supplier makes/sells a
> shorter arm for the governor? That would at least rule out the arm travel
> issue being the cause.
>
> 3) On my next and theoretically final engine run before flight, I'm going
to
> do a full power run-up. Should I just wait until I do that test to see if
> the prop becomes more responsive?
>
> If anybody has any tips before I start diving in deeper please let me
know.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
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