Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:09 AM - RV6 firewall insulation (DWENSING@aol.com)
2. 07:11 AM - Re: RV6 firewall insulation (Larry Pardue)
3. 07:45 AM - Unleaded 100 Octane (Donald Mei)
4. 07:47 AM - Re: RV6 firewall insulation (Dave Bristol)
5. 08:00 AM - Re: RV6 firewall insulation (Vanremog@aol.com)
6. 08:27 AM - Re: RV-List Digest: 10 Msgs - 05/09/04 (Tom Roberts)
7. 08:41 AM - Re: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea) (pcondon)
8. 09:25 AM - Re: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea) (SportAV8R@aol.com)
9. 09:41 AM - Re: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea) (Brian Alley)
10. 10:18 AM - Re: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea) (Stein Bruch)
11. 10:23 AM - Electronic Widget Power Draw ()
12. 10:29 AM - Re: Help with tachometer pickup (Mike Robertson)
13. 10:39 AM - Re: Electronic Widget Power Draw (Terry Watson)
14. 10:53 AM - Re: Electronic Widget Power Draw (James E. Clark)
15. 10:53 AM - Re: Electronic Widget Power Draw (linn walters)
16. 12:40 PM - Re: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea) (Curt Reimer)
17. 12:53 PM - Re: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea) (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
18. 01:22 PM - asbestos (Wheeler North)
19. 01:24 PM - Re: Electronic Widget Power Draw (George Neal E Capt AU/PC)
20. 01:28 PM - Re: Wish List (Bob)
21. 02:08 PM - Corrosion of gear legs vs Gear leg Stiffners vs were legs primed adequately (David Carter)
22. 02:20 PM - Re: RV6 firewall insulation (Kyle Boatright)
23. 02:22 PM - Re: Gear leg Stiffeners (This may be a bad idea) (Bill Dube)
24. 03:03 PM - Re: RV6 firewall insulation (Terry Watson)
25. 03:22 PM - Re: Gear leg Stiffeners (This may be a bad idea) (Stein Bruch)
26. 03:36 PM - AWO to OSH via the lower 48 (Wheeler North)
27. 03:57 PM - Re: Gear leg Stiffeners (This may be a bad idea) (RV6ator@aol.com)
28. 03:57 PM - Re: RV List Fish Fry (smoothweasel@juno.com)
29. 04:41 PM - Re: Gear leg Stiffners (are a good idea) (RV6 Flyer)
30. 06:55 PM - LP4-3 Blind Fasteners (Piavis)
31. 07:17 PM - RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings (Rich Crosley)
32. 07:31 PM - Re: AWO to OSH via the lower 48 (Charlie & Tupper England)
33. 07:46 PM - Re: RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings (Pat Hatch)
34. 08:03 PM - RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings (Gabe A Ferrer)
35. 08:15 PM - Re: Corrosion of gear legs vs Gear leg Stiffners vs were legs primed... (Vanremog@aol.com)
36. 08:27 PM - Re: RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings (Larry Pardue)
37. 08:27 PM - Re: RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings (Randy Lervold)
38. 08:36 PM - Re: RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings (JOHN STARN)
39. 09:25 PM - Re: Unleaded 100 Octane (thomas a. sargent)
40. 09:39 PM - Re: RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings (Stein Bruch)
Message 1
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| Subject: | RV6 firewall insulation |
--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
Searched the archives and found no recent info on installation of firewall
insulation.
The archive info did seem to indicate that the spray on adhesive is not
sufficient to hold insulation in place for very long.
1. Is firewall insulation a "must" for reducing heat and noise on the RV6?
2. Has anyone found an attachment method that is durable?
Dale Ensing
RV6A N118DE reserved
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: RV6 firewall insulation |
--> RV-List message posted by: Larry Pardue <n5lp@warpdriveonline.com>
on 5/10/04 7:04 AM, DWENSING@aol.com at DWENSING@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
>
>
> Searched the archives and found no recent info on installation of firewall
> insulation.
> The archive info did seem to indicate that the spray on adhesive is not
> sufficient to hold insulation in place for very long.
>
> 1. Is firewall insulation a "must" for reducing heat and noise on the RV6?
>
I have no insulation anywhere and have never missed it, as long as I wear
headseats.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
Message 3
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| Subject: | Unleaded 100 Octane |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
Dear All,
There is continuous discussion of "the demise of 100ll". I was recently
refered to this info by a mutual car nut. If Sunoco can get 100 Oct without
any "metal additives", whats to prevent the same thing from replacing 100
LL.
Kindof a speculative question, but I'm hoping it will lead to some
interesting discussion. I am aware that Av fuel and auto fuel octane
ratings are measured differently at different A/F ratios but am not aware of
the affect it has on the rating.
Don
***********************
http://www.racegas.com/gt100locals/default.asp
Sunoco GTTM 100, which has the highest octane rating of any street legal
fuel, is now available at selected retail locations. Sunoco GT 100 is
designed for high performance street cars, muscle cars, classics, street
rods, motorcycles, karts and marine applications. Sunoco GT 100 contains no
metallic compounds to harm catalytic converters or oxygen sensors. It
contains a comprehensive additive package for greater engine protection and
reduced fuel system deposits as measured by the BMW test. Sunoco GT 100 is
also compatible with virtually all two-stroke synthetic and mineral based
motor oils.
GT 100 Unleaded is available at selected locations throughout the U.S. In
certain areas, GT 100 Unleaded is available under the CAM2 GTTM 100 label.
Mothers Day is May 9. Make it special with great ideas from the Mothers
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: RV6 firewall insulation |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
Dale,
Put your money into good headsets. While the insulation would probably
help reduce he overall noise by a relatively small amount, it's heavy
and expensive and, in my opinion, the exhaust and wind noise are more
of a problem.
Dave, RV6 So Cal
EAA Technical Counselor
DWENSING@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
>
>
>Searched the archives and found no recent info on installation of firewall
>insulation.
>The archive info did seem to indicate that the spray on adhesive is not
>sufficient to hold insulation in place for very long.
>
>1. Is firewall insulation a "must" for reducing heat and noise on the RV6?
>
>2. Has anyone found an attachment method that is durable?
>Dale Ensing
>RV6A N118DE reserved
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: RV6 firewall insulation |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 5/10/2004 6:11:22 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
DWENSING@aol.com writes:
1. Is firewall insulation a "must" for reducing heat and noise on the RV6?
2. Has anyone found an attachment method that is durable?
==========================
This is, of course, a personal choice and the RV is, by nature, a noisy
airframe. Insulation is desirable to make it less so.
However, insulation that works will add weight. I have probably one of the
coolest and quietest RVs around, but that comes at a price in $$ and weight.
There remains a substantial noise level that must be dealt with using ANR
headsets.
Further, unless you get your external air from some place other than the
fuselage, you will still get warmed air from the cowling external surface.
GV (RV-6A N1GV flying 690 hrs)
Not all questions or values which human beings find worth pursuing and
committing themselves to can be approached scientifically. There can be no doubt
that scientific theories fulfill a vital human need. But so do nonscientific
theories, whether they be in the field of cosmology or religion, art, morality,
knowledge or even science.---Robert Todd Carroll
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 10 Msgs - 05/09/04 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Roberts" <tom.roberts@pioneermachinery.com>
Please unsubscribe me.
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV-List Digest Server" <rv-list-digest@matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List Digest: 10 Msgs - 05/09/04
> *
>
> ==================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> ==================================================
>
> Today's complete RV-List Digest can be also be found in either
> of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
> formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked
> Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII
> version of the RV-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic
> text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list/Digest.RV-List.2004-05-09.html
>
> Text Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list/Digest.RV-List.2004-05-09.txt
>
>
> ================================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ================================================
>
>
> RV-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Sun 05/09/04: 10
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 09:39 AM - Wish List (YonderRDC@aol.com)
> 2. 11:54 AM - Re: RV6/A Gross Weight.... (RV6AOKC@aol.com)
> 3. 01:45 PM - Re: Gear leg Stiffners (Hal / Carol Kempthorne)
> 4. 02:55 PM - Re: Gear leg Stiffners (Humor added) (Tom Gummo)
> 5. 03:12 PM - Re: Gear leg Stiffners (Humor added) (Bruce Gray)
> 6. 03:49 PM - Re: Gear leg Stiffners (Humor added) (Paul Besing)
> 7. 04:40 PM - Re: Gear leg Stiffners (Bob U.)
> 8. 07:56 PM - Re: Gear leg Stiffners (Humor added) (JOHN STARN)
> 9. 08:27 PM - Re: Gear leg Stiffners (Brian Alley)
> 10. 09:15 PM - RV List Fish Fry (smoothweasel@juno.com)
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 09:39:14 AM PST US
> From: YonderRDC@aol.com
> Subject: RV-List: Wish List
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: YonderRDC@aol.com
>
> Hi All...To introduce myself---David Ward here......
> I have been spying on you all for the last couple of years while preparing
to
> seriously join the fray. Two years worth of planning, saving, and
educating
> myself. You all have been a big part of that last one. Thanks for all the
> insight and education! I am currently in the permit application process
to build
>
> a new shop in which to build my RV-8....God willing (and the County permit
> folks), I should have the shop completed by the 4th of July or so. A trip
to
> Vans is planned for June (in concert with Scappose I suspect)...to pick up
an
> empennage kit.
>
> That said....I though you might lend your expertise as I draw up my wish
list
> for the new shop/Hanger (room for a 1700 ft. strip!). Yes...I Have
reviewed
> the archives. What has worked especially well for you in the shop...what
do
> you wish you had done....what should'nt you have done...done differently,
any
> hints on any aspect would be appreciated. Lighting, tools, hanger doors,
> creature comforts, floor paint?....plumbing for the compressor (anybody
use
> PVC?)...etc. You get the idea. If you were doing what I was, what would
you
> do?
> If you don't want to clog up the list with this stuff feel free to resond
> directly to yonderrdc@aol.com. If anyone wants phone #'s let me know.
>
> I'll be ordering aircraft tools from cleveland or avery soon and dropping
a
> small fortune at SEARS. I've been picking up odds and ends recently
....latest
>
> is a Dremel setup and a gross of flame-proof underwear :).
>
> Thanks very much for any information all. It's a pleasure to finally say
> Hi...
>
> David
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 11:54:07 AM PST US
> From: RV6AOKC@aol.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6/A Gross Weight....
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: RV6AOKC@aol.com
>
> Bob,
>
> These are the figures I got from Vans several years ago from Bill
Benedict,
> who has since passed on. I don't think they will publish any figures
beyond
> what is in the books now for liability reasons, which I understand.
However,
> I would have to assume that some type of engineering was done to confirm
these
>
> numbers. They don't really mean much until I do my test program anyway,
but
> it was a place to start.
>
> Kurt
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 3
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 01:45:52 PM PST US
> From: Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hal / Carol Kempthorne
<kempthornes@earthlink.net>
>
> At 04:35 PM 5/6/2004, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Nolan" <jamespnolan@earthlink.net>
> >
> > I wouldn't put them on, here's why.
> >
> snip
> >I figure the only thing
> >that saved my gear and motor mount, was the Whitman gear. If it had been
> >stiff, I probley would have had to replace more than just the wheelpant.
>
> I doubt it. The steel is twenty times stronger than the wood, maybe
> more. The wood would have added very little to strength.
>
> However, wood is very good at damping vibration. Some years ago a
railroad
> tried using ties made of concrete instead of wood in order to reduce
> costs. While wood ties last years, the concrete began breaking up in a
few
> weeks.
>
>
> K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
> RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
> PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 4
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 02:55:22 PM PST US
> From: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners (Humor added)
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
>
> > Some years ago a railroad
> > tried using ties made of concrete instead of wood in order to reduce
> > costs. While wood ties last years, the concrete began breaking up in a
> few
> > weeks.
>
>
> Besides, concrete is to hard to get to stick to the gear legs. :-)
>
> Tom Gummo
> Apple Valley, CA
> Harmon Rocket-II
>
> do not archive
>
> http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 5
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 03:12:11 PM PST US
> From: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners (Humor added)
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
>
> Sounds like the old joke about the newlywed who went back to her
> gynecologist with the complaint that her birth control pill were the
> wrong size, they kept falling out.
>
> Bruce
> www.glasair.org
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Gummo
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners (Humor added)
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
>
> > Some years ago a railroad
> > tried using ties made of concrete instead of wood in order to reduce
> > costs. While wood ties last years, the concrete began breaking up in
> a
> few
> > weeks.
>
>
> Besides, concrete is to hard to get to stick to the gear legs. :-)
>
> Tom Gummo
> Apple Valley, CA
> Harmon Rocket-II
>
> do not archive
>
> http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
>
>
> ==
> ==
> ==
> ==
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 6
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 03:49:44 PM PST US
> From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners (Humor added)
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
>
>
> >
> > Besides, concrete is to hard to get to stick to the gear legs. :-)
> >
>
>
> Not if you use the right primer, Tom! I hear Marhyde works wonders!
>
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A Sold
> RV-10 Soon
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
> do not archive
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 7
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 04:40:24 PM PST US
> From: "Bob U." <rv3@comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob U." <rv3@comcast.net>
>
>
> >Some years ago a railroad
> >tried using ties made of concrete instead of wood in order to reduce
> >costs. While wood ties last years, the concrete began breaking up in a
few
> >weeks.
> >
> >
> >K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
> >RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
> >PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
> >
>
> Tsk. Tsk.
> Rocla Concrete Tie, Inc sure would take issue with you.
> Concrete ties have been used successfully throughout the world for more
> than 50 years.
>
> Just a few websites....
>
http://www.aslrra.org/who_we_serve/associate_members/details.cfm?memberid=1783
> http://www.kellysearch.com/qz-product-106454.html
> http://www.koppers.com/htm/PandS_Rail_KSA.html
>
http://64.233.167.104/search?q=cache:PVwLKhNmP8wJ:www.lbfoster.com/cxt/cxtrailroadproducts/TiesProd2.pdf+concrete+railroad+ties&hl=en
>
> FYI, even ships have been successfully been manufactured from concrete!
> http://www.concreteships.org/history/
>
> Bob - retired Class I railroad employee
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 8
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 07:56:07 PM PST US
> From: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners (Humor added)
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
>
> Ya gotta use "Concrete Cement". Yes, Virginia there is such a thing. The
> last brand I used was from Elmers Glue.
> Do Not Archive 8*) Kabong
>
> ---- Original Message -----
> From: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners (Humor added)
>
>
> > > Some years ago a railroad
> > > tried using ties made of concrete instead of wood in order to reduce
> > > costs. While wood ties last years, the concrete began breaking up in
a
> > few
> > > weeks.
> > Besides, concrete is to hard to get to stick to the gear legs. :-)
> >
> > Tom Gummo
> > Apple Valley, CA
> > Harmon Rocket-II
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 9
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 08:27:35 PM PST US
> From: Brian Alley <n320wt@yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Brian Alley <n320wt@yahoo.com>
>
> Several Tailwinds and other aircraft equipped with
> tapered rod gear have suffered cracks in the gear
> mount truss due to the oscillation of the gear. The
> wood stiffeners change the natural frequency of the
> spring gear in the direction the gear tends to
> oscillate. I added wood to my gear and did eliminate a
> moderate oscillation. The wood is bonded to both the
> front and rear edges of the gear leg then carved into
> an airfoil shape. The wood is then wrapped with
> fiberglass, filled with epoxy/micro, sanded and
> painted. It's a permanent part of the gear legs and
> solved the problem completely.
>
> =====
> BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
> CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
> 304-872-7938 shop
> 304-562-6800 home
>
> How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 10
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 09:15:51 PM PST US
> rv-list@matronics.com, brooks6@ustconline.net
> Subject: RV-List: RV List Fish Fry
> From: smoothweasel@juno.com
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com
>
> Hey Guy's The time is almost here for the fish fry fly-in that we have
> been planning.
> There will be a plenty of fun and food so come on out and see us!!!!
>
> See ya Sat.
>
> Weasel
>
>
> > > This is an invitation to a fly-in to be held on Saturday, May 15,2004
> at
> > > 11:00 a.m. We will plan on serving the meal at 12:00 noon. We
> welcome
> > > all aircraft that land on grass to come try out our strip. If you
> don't
> > > do grass strips join us for the food and friendly conversation.
>
>
> > >
> > > We are located at:
> > > GPS: N 33 08.511' W 088 24.485'
> > > 1950 ft. grass N/S runway
> > > Caution: Power pole on the S/W corner of the runway
> > >
> > > If driving:
> > > Travel Hwy 45 to Prairie Point Rd. Turn East on Prairie Point Rd,
> pass
> > > Macon Airport and of about 8.5 mi. to Greenbriar Rd. Turn South onto
> > > Greenbriar, look for black catfish mailbox. Turn right at the
> mailbox
> > > and drive between the ponds to the house. We plan to be there,
> waiting
> > > for you.
> > >
> > > Questions? Contact us at:
> > > Dwight Lee (662) 726-9709 e-mail: bubbalee69@juno.com
> > > Levi Lee (662) 726-5560
> > >
> > > Check e-mail or call before coming if there is a chance of bad
> weather
> > > cancellation.
> > >
> > > PS If you know anyone who would enjoy this please pass this
> invitation
> on
> > > for us.
> >
>
>
Message 7
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|
| Subject: | Re: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "pcondon" <pcondon@mitre.org>
The kind of Steel that these gear legs we use are easily rusted. I wonder if
the long term effects of burying the gear rods in a tomb of sealed bondo,
wood and F/G and water will cause mayor rust and structural problems down
the road. Especially if you cannot inspect the condition of the rods....
.........................................................................
Time: 08:27:35 PM PST US
From: Brian Alley <n320wt@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners
--> RV-List message posted by: Brian Alley <n320wt@yahoo.com>
Several Tailwinds and other aircraft equipped with
tapered rod gear have suffered cracks in the gear
mount truss due to the oscillation of the gear. The
wood stiffeners change the natural frequency of the
spring gear in the direction the gear tends to
oscillate. I added wood to my gear and did eliminate a
moderate oscillation. The wood is bonded to both the
front and rear edges of the gear leg then carved into
an airfoil shape. The wood is then wrapped with
fiberglass, filled with epoxy/micro, sanded and
painted. It's a permanent part of the gear legs and
solved the problem completely.
=====
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
304-872-7938 shop
304-562-6800 home
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
Message 8
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|
| Subject: | Re: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea) |
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
In a message dated 5/10/2004 11:22:02 AM Eastern Daylight Time, pcondon@mitre.org
writes:
> The kind of Steel that these gear legs we use are easily rusted. I wonder if
> the long term effects of burying the gear rods in a tomb of sealed bondo,
> wood and F/G and water will cause mayor rust and structural problems down
> the road. Especially if you cannot inspect the condition of
> the rods....
Yes, check the archives; mine were rusted and pitted when I removed the dampening
stuff (never to be replaced and never missed, by the way.)
-Bill B
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Brian Alley <n320wt@yahoo.com>
The gear are epoxy primed and painted with Stits
Aerothane before the wood is bonded on. The bond is a
urethane adhesive used to install auto windows. I'm
sure the metal gear legs are well protected from rust
and corrosion.
=====
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
304-872-7938 shop
304-562-6800 home
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
Message 10
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| Subject: | Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
This very issue has gone full circle sometime ago, and there were a number
of gear legs that ended up with corrossion/pitting on them as a result of
the bonded stiffners. The general consensus in the past was to leave them
off, but then again.....to each his own.
I have 2 flying -6's, 1 with stiffners and 1 without. Honestly don't notice
a difference and they won't be installed on anymore RV's that I build.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of pcondon
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea)
--> RV-List message posted by: "pcondon" <pcondon@mitre.org>
The kind of Steel that these gear legs we use are easily rusted. I wonder if
the long term effects of burying the gear rods in a tomb of sealed bondo,
wood and F/G and water will cause mayor rust and structural problems down
the road. Especially if you cannot inspect the condition of the rods....
.........................................................................
Message 11
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| Subject: | Electronic Widget Power Draw |
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
All,
I am loking for the max estimated current draw most typical airplane "widgets"
(strobes, lights, radio, pitot tube, navaid, etc.) draw. I am assuming most all
would fit in the under 10 amp category?
Reason I ask is that I am looking to get a regulated DC power supply to do testing
on the bench, and I am trying to figure out which model to get (3A or 10A).
I know I could also buy a cheap lawnmower battery, but I would rather not
deal with charging it.
Thanks,
Scott
7A Wings
www.scottsrv7a.com
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
Message 12
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|
| Subject: | Help with tachometer pickup |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Since you have an all electric panel, there may be one other option worth
looking into. If you engine monitor uses or accepts electronic impluse to
register RPM there is a magneto pickup that pops right in place in the
magneto side case. It works whether the magneto is firing or grounded. Or
if you have dual electronic ignition then you can use one of the ignition
modules for the PRm pickup. The only problem with this is during the engine
run-up. When you turn off that particular ignition module you lose the RPM
sensing. If you are interested in the magneto pickup give Rob Hickman a call
at Advanced Control Systems (ACS). His number is (503) 598-7727.
Mike Robertson
>From: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Help with tachometer pickup
>Date: Fri, 7 May 2004 23:08:40 -0400
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
>
>Peter,
>
>What we did on our RV6 is to attach a short cable from the engine to the
>pickup. The pickup is mounted on a "shelf" that also holds the GPS antenna
>just under the cowl. Seems to work just fine.
>
>I think I got the cable from the "Aviation" department of some place like
>NAPA/AutoZone.
>
>Email me if there are additional questions.
>
>James
>
>p.s. Since you are "all electric", do you have an EFIS or electronic engine
>monitor along with Electronic Ignition? Many of these combinations allow
>for
>RPM to be determined from counting pulses on the EI.
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> > PeterHunt1@aol.com
> > Sent: Friday, May 07, 2004 6:22 PM
> > To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com;
> > rv-list-digest@matronics.com.pts.rule.name.description.----.------------
> > ----------.--------------------------------------------------
> > Subject: RV-List: Help with tachometer pickup
> >
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: PeterHunt1@aol.com
> >
> > After installing my SD20 alternator on the vacuum pad of my
> > 0-360-A1A, I find
> > there isn't sufficient clearance for Van's tachometer transducer to
>screw
> > onto the tachometer outlet on the back of my engine. I built my
> > all electric
> > panel around my SD20, so it will stay. Would someone help me
> > understand my other
> > tachometer pickup options? Thanks.
> >
> > Pete
> > Clearwater, FL
> > RV-6, installing the engine
> >
> >
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Electronic Widget Power Draw |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Check the Matronics aeroelectric list archives. Lots of useful stuff there.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
tx_jayhawk@excite.com
Subject: RV-List: Electronic Widget Power Draw
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
All,
I am loking for the max estimated current draw most typical airplane
"widgets" (strobes, lights, radio, pitot tube, navaid, etc.) draw. I am
assuming most all would fit in the under 10 amp category?
Thanks,
Scott
7A Wings
www.scottsrv7a.com
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Electronic Widget Power Draw |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
If you have to choose between those two, go with the 10A.
There will be times that you will desire to connect more than one thing.
There will be times you will experience s a sag in voltage with the 3A etc.
I have both sizes. The 10A is bulkier but that is what is on the bench at
the hangar now.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> tx_jayhawk@excite.com
> Sent: Monday, May 10, 2004 1:21 PM
> To: RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com; rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Electronic Widget Power Draw
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
>
> All,
>
> I am loking for the max estimated current draw most typical
> airplane "widgets" (strobes, lights, radio, pitot tube, navaid,
> etc.) draw. I am assuming most all would fit in the under 10 amp
> category?
>
> Reason I ask is that I am looking to get a regulated DC power
> supply to do testing on the bench, and I am trying to figure out
> which model to get (3A or 10A). I know I could also buy a cheap
> lawnmower battery, but I would rather not deal with charging it.
>
> Thanks,
> Scott
> 7A Wings
> www.scottsrv7a.com
>
>
> Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
> The most personalized portal on the Web!
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Electronic Widget Power Draw |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
tx_jayhawk@excite.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
>
>All,
>
>I am loking for the max estimated current draw most typical airplane "widgets"
(strobes, lights, radio, pitot tube, navaid, etc.) draw. I am assuming most
all would fit in the under 10 amp category?
>
>Reason I ask is that I am looking to get a regulated DC power supply to do testing
on the bench, and I am trying to figure out which model to get (3A or 10A).
I know I could also buy a cheap lawnmower battery, but I would rather not
deal with charging it.
>
>Thanks,
>Scott
>7A Wings
>www.scottsrv7a.com
>
Scott, each component is a couple of amps or less, but if you want to
power a couple of items at once .....
I'd go with the 10A. Depending on just how good the filtering of the
power supply is, you may or may not get hum in the audio stuff. If you
do, just put the tractor battery across the power supply as a filter.
Linn
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer@mb.sympatico.ca>
This may have gone full circle, but then many discussions here do so
without ever coming to a concensus one way or the other. :-)
In this case, I think we need to separate the "wood stiffeners help dampen
oscillation" issue from the "wood stiffeners cause corrosion" issue. I think
the concensus on damping is that the wood either works well (most cases) or
made no difference. So I would conclude that it is worth doing from that
perspective. Then there is the issue of corrosion, and the right way to do
the job if you are going to do it. As another lister posted, the right way
to do this is with a good epoxy primer coat prior to any stiffner bonding or
fibreglass work. Has anyone who primed their gearlegs with an epoxy primer
(not just epoxy) before installing the stiffeners still experienced a
corrosion problem?
Sometimes people try to cut corners or redesign a part or process, fail, and
then rationalize that there must have been something inherently wrong with
the original idea. (me included)
Curt
RV-6 140 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea)
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>
> This very issue has gone full circle sometime ago, and there were a number
> of gear legs that ended up with corrossion/pitting on them as a result of
> the bonded stiffners. The general consensus in the past was to leave them
> off, but then again.....to each his own.
>
> I have 2 flying -6's, 1 with stiffners and 1 without. Honestly don't
notice
> a difference and they won't be installed on anymore RV's that I build.
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6's, Minneapolis.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of pcondon
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea)
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "pcondon" <pcondon@mitre.org>
>
>
> The kind of Steel that these gear legs we use are easily rusted. I wonder
if
> the long term effects of burying the gear rods in a tomb of sealed bondo,
> wood and F/G and water will cause mayor rust and structural problems down
> the road. Especially if you cannot inspect the condition of the rods....
>
>
> .........................................................................
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
My gear legs came from Van's powder coated. I was not too impressed with the
powder coating on the canopy frame. It appears that the steel wasn't prepped
at all. If the gear legs are the same, flexing could open up cracks in the
paint where corrosion could start. Has anyone had this happen?
Now, how is the best way to get that powder coating off? Don't say just flex
the legs and it will fall off!
I am glad that someone suggested epoxy primer. I have some Dexter which is
as tough as nails -- almost literally! It should be good for the gear legs.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (still almost done!)
In a message dated 5/10/04 2:41:38 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
cgreimer@mb.sympatico.ca writes:
> In this case, I think we need to separate the "wood stiffeners help dampen
> oscillation" issue from the "wood stiffeners cause corrosion" issue. I think
> the concensus on damping is that the wood either works well (most cases) or
> made no difference. So I would conclude that it is worth doing from that
> perspective. Then there is the issue of corrosion, and the right way to do
> the job if you are going to do it. As another lister posted, the right way
> to do this is with a good epoxy primer coat prior to any stiffner bonding or
> fibreglass work. Has anyone who primed their gearlegs with an epoxy primer
> (not just epoxy) before installing the stiffeners still experienced a
> corrosion problem?
>
> Sometimes people try to cut corners or redesign a part or process, fail, and
> then rationalize that there must have been something inherently wrong with
> the original idea. (me included)
>
> Curt
> RV-6 140 hours
>
>
Message 18
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|
0.0 BAYES_56 BODY: Bayesian spam probability is 56 to 60%
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Standing by with my asbestos underwear ;-)
Now wait a minute Doug, that's gotta itch something fierce,
so,,,
there you are flying along scratching and scritching both joy sticks and
who's eyes are outside the cockpit?
;{)
Message 19
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| Subject: | Electronic Widget Power Draw |
--> RV-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
Scott -
In my Amateur Radio activities, I've been very happy with Astron power
supplies. I'd recommend a bigger supply than you think you'll need. The
RS-20M will provide 20 amps intermittent and about 14 amps continuous
without damaging the supply, and has meters for voltage and current mounted
in the case. $117 from Ham Radio Outlet ( www.hamradio.com ).
Switching supplies of equal capacity are usually advertised as less
expensive, but must be carefully (expensively) filtered to control the
electrical noise and RFI that is generated by the switching circuitry. A
properly filtered switching power supply will cost about the same as a
linear supply. It's only true "advantage" is less weight.
In the Ham Shack, dirty power will make your head hurt. It will make a mess
of your aviation equipment, too.
73... N8ZG (Neal)
RV-7 Elevators
Message 20
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--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared3@brier.net>
>That said....I though you might lend your expertise as I draw up my wish list
>for the new shop/Hanger (room for a 1700 ft. strip!). Yes...I Have reviewed
>the archives. What has worked especially well for you in the shop...what do
>you wish you had done....what should'nt you have done...done differently, any
>hints on any aspect would be appreciated. Lighting, tools, hanger doors,
>creature comforts, floor paint?....plumbing for the compressor (anybody use
>PVC?)...etc. You get the idea. If you were doing what I was, what would
>you do?
I started building in a 2 car garage and finally moved to a 2500 square
foot metal barn with concrete floors. A few comments:
1. You need good heat in the winter and some way to stay cool in the
summer. This is important! I used a 250 gal propane tank with a 250,000
BTU propane barn heater. Large fans in the summer.
2. You can almost never have too much money or room, but 2500 square feet
was way too big, especially for heating and cooling. I enclosed a small
space of about 600 square feet for most of the building. I did have the
wings and tail surfaces mounted for over a year inside the barn, and still
had plenty of room to move around, what a real luxury!
3. Get all the light you can, operating a flashlight, bucking bar and
riveting gun all at once is hard to do.
4. Get plenty of electrical outlets, for power tools, shop tools, wood
working tools and the electric drill. You can use the air drill, but I
preferred the electric drill. For me, just a matter of preference. I used
both, nice to have two drills ready to go at any time, both with different
bits or attachments. Also get a good angel drill attachment and angle
grinder. Matter of fact, just go to the Sears tool area and buy one of
everything. Just kidding...well almost!!
5. I would have loved to have a painted floor. But, building the airplane
came first, after the airplane was built no need for the painted floor.
6. Get a quite compressor, oil less is really loud.
7. Build shelves, cabinets and drawers. Organization of all the tools and
parts is a great time saver.
8. Make sure you have plenty of electrical power, I used a 50 amp circuit
box with 20 Amp outlets, now I wished I had done 100 Amps, 50 Amps is good
for RV building, 100 Amps would be nice for TIG welding (welding not
required, but a nice luxury). Don't forget power requirements for the air
conditioner, water heater, heating system, microwave, hot tub etc.
9. Plumbing for a sink and toilet would be nice. Water is needed for
cleaning and painting, etc. Outdoor faucet and hose will work.
10. Doors big enough to get parts in and out. My barn doors were big
enough to roll the entire aircraft in and out. Again a real luxury!
11. You do need an AM/FM radio, used mine a lot. Also a TV with VCR would
be nice to view the how to tapes.
12. And while you are at it, put in a bed and a kitchen. Will save a lot
of time, get you back to building quicker.
13. Of course a two car garage will work also.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
Message 21
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| Subject: | Corrosion of gear legs vs Gear leg Stiffners vs were legs primed |
adequately
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
An aluminum air filter body (in-line on my shop air compressor/tank) was
powder coated at the factory and corroded through and blew out. Based on
that single data point, powder coating seems worthless as a corrosion
resisting treatment. I'll coat my gear legs with the strontium chomate
epoxy primer that I've used on my other aluminum & steel parts.
David
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hopperdhh@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea)
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
>
> My gear legs came from Van's powder coated. I was not too impressed with
the
> powder coating on the canopy frame. It appears that the steel wasn't
prepped
> at all. If the gear legs are the same, flexing could open up cracks in
the
> paint where corrosion could start. Has anyone had this happen?
>
> Now, how is the best way to get that powder coating off? Don't say just
flex
> the legs and it will fall off!
>
> I am glad that someone suggested epoxy primer. I have some Dexter which
is
> as tough as nails -- almost literally! It should be good for the gear
legs.
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A (still almost done!)
>
>
> In a message dated 5/10/04 2:41:38 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
> cgreimer@mb.sympatico.ca writes:
>
> > In this case, I think we need to separate the "wood stiffeners help
dampen
> > oscillation" issue from the "wood stiffeners cause corrosion" issue. I
think
> > the concensus on damping is that the wood either works well (most cases)
or
> > made no difference. So I would conclude that it is worth doing from that
> > perspective. Then there is the issue of corrosion, and the right way to
do
> > the job if you are going to do it. As another lister posted, the right
way
> > to do this is with a good epoxy primer coat prior to any stiffner
bonding or
> > fibreglass work. Has anyone who primed their gearlegs with an epoxy
primer
> > (not just epoxy) before installing the stiffeners still experienced a
> > corrosion problem?
> >
> > Sometimes people try to cut corners or redesign a part or process, fail,
and
> > then rationalize that there must have been something inherently wrong
with
> > the original idea. (me included)
> >
> > Curt
> > RV-6 140 hours
> >
> >
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: RV6 firewall insulation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: <DWENSING@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV6 firewall insulation
> --> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
>
>
> Searched the archives and found no recent info on installation of firewall
> insulation.
> The archive info did seem to indicate that the spray on adhesive is not
> sufficient to hold insulation in place for very long.
>
> 1. Is firewall insulation a "must" for reducing heat and noise on the RV6?
A must? Naah, but RV's are very noisy (no mufflers), and a
carpeted/insulated floor and firewall really help with the noise. As far as
heat, the firewall insulation is really nice in Southern climates.
> 2. Has anyone found an attachment method that is durable?
Yep. I used the spray adhesive and a little tape the first time, then had
loose insulation after a couple of years. The secret is to use the spray
adhesive to tack the insulation in place (starting with the biggest pieces),
then to use aluminum HVAC tape to tape the heck out of each piece as you
install it. Tape the big pieces to the firewall stiffeners along the
perimeter of each piece, and you'll be good, then tape the adjoining pieces
of insulation to the accessable stiffeners. Where stiffeners are not
accessable, tape to securely fastened pieces of insulation.
KB
> Dale Ensing
> RV6A N118DE reserved
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Gear leg Stiffeners (This may be a bad idea) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
Speaking of potentially bad ideas, has anyone tried fiberglass sheets
clamped to the gear leg in a few spots?
The reason I ask this is that in days of yore, leaf springs served as
suspension dampers. The leaves are clamped together in several spots and
thus rub against one another as the spring flexes. This damps out movement
via friction.
I am guessing that several layers of fiberglass "leaves" might do the same
thing. Has this been tried?
Message 24
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| Subject: | RV6 firewall insulation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
For what its worth: One of my building construction magazines this month
noted that Dow's "Great Stuff"(tm) canned foam insulation has been approved
for fire stopping in buildings. They will be making a version of it in
orange color to insure the inspectors that it is the approved kind, but it
will be no different from the stuff you buy at Home Depot.
Terry
> Searched the archives and found no recent info on installation of firewall
> insulation.
Message 25
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| Subject: | Gear leg Stiffeners (This may be a bad idea) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Yep.....In fact, there are a number of RV's flying with Fiberglass Rod's
instead of wood attached to the legs. The thinking at the time was that the
glass wouldn't absorb moisture. Not commong practice anymore.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Dube
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffeners (This may be a bad idea)
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
Speaking of potentially bad ideas, has anyone tried fiberglass
sheets
clamped to the gear leg in a few spots?
The reason I ask this is that in days of yore, leaf springs served
as
suspension dampers. The leaves are clamped together in several spots and
thus rub against one another as the spring flexes. This damps out movement
via friction.
I am guessing that several layers of fiberglass "leaves" might do
the same
thing. Has this been tried?
Message 26
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| Subject: | AWO to OSH via the lower 48 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Folks,
I'm planning a trip that will fill the 11 days between when I leave from
NWEAA's flyin at AWO WA, which runs from 7.7-7.11, arriving at OSH on 7.22,
that will take me straight across from WA to Maine, then down the right
coast to FL, then west to the grand ole river, and back up to OSH. The idea
here is to zigzag a little and land on every state in the lower 48 this
summer.
So far I've managed to find a few airports using aopa's search engine that
include camping and a restaurant on the airport, or one close by. Are there
any recommendations from y'all on good choices for overnight stays that are
either close to the borders or the coasts.
I'm aiming for 3 to 7 states per day (you folks on the right side aren't
much in to elbow room and wide open spaces). Obviously WX will make for some
real time changes to the itineary... so any advice on east coast WX rules,
ie better in the morning, etc...
Also, is it true that RI has only 6 airports and they all have landing fees?
That's a rough deal to be from there.
Another question is the rules for the SW Maine TFR. Is it a no fly TFR like
the DC area or is it like a class B when hot? The sectional seems to
indicate a big white 30mn area.
Any other thoughts or tidbits, or anybody want to form up (very loosely) and
fly a few legs kick me an email offlist. wnorth@sdccd.net
W
do not archive
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Gear leg Stiffeners (This may be a bad idea) |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV6ator@aol.com
I have the fiberglass gear leg fairings filled with foam. To insure that my
gear legs would not corrode from moisture soaked foam, I first primed the gear
legs with epoxy primer, and then applied large heat shrink tubing to the gear
legs. Worked great! Large diameter heat shrink tubing is available at
electrical wholesale warehouses. I put the brake lines between the gear leg and
the
heat shrink.
Bill Mahoney
RV-6 N747W
first flight 9/91
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: RV List Fish Fry |
--> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com
Sorry I forgot to ad that This Fly-In is located approximatly 8.5mi East
of Macon, MS
Do Not Archive
On Sun, 9 May 2004 22:56:18 -0500 smoothweasel@juno.com writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com
>
> Hey Guy's The time is almost here for the fish fry fly-in that we
> have
> been planning.
> There will be a plenty of fun and food so come on out and see
> us!!!!
>
> See ya Sat.
>
> Weasel
>
>
> > > This is an invitation to a fly-in to be held on Saturday, May
> 15,2004
> at
> > > 11:00 a.m. We will plan on serving the meal at 12:00 noon. We
> welcome
> > > all aircraft that land on grass to come try out our strip. If
> you
> don't
> > > do grass strips join us for the food and friendly conversation.
>
>
> > >
> > > We are located at:
> > > GPS: N 33 08.511' W 088 24.485'
> > > 1950 ft. grass N/S runway
> > > Caution: Power pole on the S/W corner of the runway
> > >
> > > If driving:
> > > Travel Hwy 45 to Prairie Point Rd. Turn East on Prairie Point
> Rd,
> pass
> > > Macon Airport and of about 8.5 mi. to Greenbriar Rd. Turn South
> onto
> > > Greenbriar, look for black catfish mailbox. Turn right at the
> mailbox
> > > and drive between the ponds to the house. We plan to be there,
> waiting
> > > for you.
> > >
> > > Questions? Contact us at:
> > > Dwight Lee (662) 726-9709 e-mail: bubbalee69@juno.com
> > > Levi Lee (662) 726-5560
> > >
> > > Check e-mail or call before coming if there is a chance of bad
> weather
> > > cancellation.
> > >
> > > PS If you know anyone who would enjoy this please pass this
> invitation
> on
> > > for us.
> >
>
>
>
=
>
=
> ==============
>
=
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Gear leg Stiffners (are a good idea) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
My RV-6 was hit by at car when it was 1.5 years old and 307 hours on it.
The engine mount was broken and a gear leg bent so all was replaced.
I removed the WOOD from the gear legs to inspect the steel. NO corrosion
was found. I used Rustoleum primer on the gear legs. The replacements were
done the exact same way. First flight was September 1997. Been across the
US 9 times. As far north as Fort Yukon Alaska (north of the Arctic Circle)
and as far east as the Bahamas (MYLS). The airplane also sat out side in
San Jose for 6 weeks on a business trip.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,498 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of pcondon
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea)
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "pcondon" <pcondon@mitre.org>
>
>
> The kind of Steel that these gear legs we use are easily rusted. I wonder
if
> the long term effects of burying the gear rods in a tomb of sealed bondo,
> wood and F/G and water will cause mayor rust and structural problems down
> the road. Especially if you cannot inspect the condition of the rods....
>
>
> .........................................................................
>
>
it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | LP4-3 Blind Fasteners |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Piavis" <piavis@pacbell.net>
I'm short several LP4-3 fasteners and need to find a couple or twenty. Van's
list them but to make the weekend I'd like to order from Spruce. Anyone know
a suitable sub for the LP4-3 as I can't find any reference aside from Van's.
Jim
-7 2nd Wing
Mountain View, CA
Message 31
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| Subject: | RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rich Crosley" <dirtrider@qnet.com>
It seems to me that it would be easier to just epoxy the trailing edges of
the main gear leg fairings together rather than mess with the hinges.
Besides not being able to remove them, what's the disadvantage? Why would
you want to remove them? It looks like you will have to remove the wheel to
get the hinge pin in and out anyway. What am I missing here?
Thanks,
Rich Crosley
Palmdale, CA
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: AWO to OSH via the lower 48 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Wheeler North wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
>Folks,
>
>I'm planning a trip that will fill the 11 days between when I leave from
>NWEAA's flyin at AWO WA, which runs from 7.7-7.11, arriving at OSH on 7.22,
>that will take me straight across from WA to Maine, then down the right
>coast to FL, then west to the grand ole river, and back up to OSH. The idea
>here is to zigzag a little and land on every state in the lower 48 this
>summer.
>
>So far I've managed to find a few airports using aopa's search engine that
>include camping and a restaurant on the airport, or one close by. Are there
>any recommendations from y'all on good choices for overnight stays that are
>either close to the borders or the coasts.
>
>I'm aiming for 3 to 7 states per day (you folks on the right side aren't
>much in to elbow room and wide open spaces). Obviously WX will make for some
>real time changes to the itineary... so any advice on east coast WX rules,
>ie better in the morning, etc...
>
>Also, is it true that RI has only 6 airports and they all have landing fees?
>That's a rough deal to be from there.
>
>Another question is the rules for the SW Maine TFR. Is it a no fly TFR like
>the DC area or is it like a class B when hot? The sectional seems to
>indicate a big white 30mn area.
>
>Any other thoughts or tidbits, or anybody want to form up (very loosely) and
>fly a few legs kick me an email offlist. wnorth@sdccd.net
>
>W
>
>do not archive
>
Hi Wheeler,
Here at Slobovia Outernational we have air conditioned indoor camping,
complete with beds & showers, and the self contained restaurant is
always open. ;-)
Seriously, we have a couple of empty bedrooms (with hangar space for RV
size planes) & welcome visitors any time we are home. (See Doug Reeves'
hospitality site for more info.)
We are just north of Jackson MS & the route from here to OSH will take
you over the Mighty Mississippi several times, passing just a few miles
west of Memphis & within about 40 miles of St Louis.
Email me off list if you think you would like to visit.
Charlie
(-7 in the oven)
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Rich,
At least on a -6/-7, you do not have to remover the wheels or the wheel
pants to remove the hinge pin, I doubt on an -8 if you'll have any problems
removing them either. You will need to remove the fairings if they wear out
or get damaged, also to do maintenance on your brake lines, etc. It is
really easy to install the hinges, I would recommend that you do it that
way.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 Finishing Kit
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich Crosley" <dirtrider@qnet.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Rich Crosley" <dirtrider@qnet.com>
>
> It seems to me that it would be easier to just epoxy the trailing edges of
> the main gear leg fairings together rather than mess with the hinges.
> Besides not being able to remove them, what's the disadvantage? Why would
> you want to remove them? It looks like you will have to remove the wheel
to
> get the hinge pin in and out anyway. What am I missing here?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Rich Crosley
> Palmdale, CA
>
>
Message 34
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| Subject: | RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gabe A Ferrer" <ferrergm@bellsouth.net>
Don't know about an RV8. But on my RV6 I like to be able to inspect the Gear Legs.
I made a removable cuff to transition from the gear leg to the wheel cover. It's
easy to remove the hinge pin after removing the cuff.
Gabe A Ferrer
RV6 N2GX 112 hours
South Florida
Email: ferrergm@bellsouth.net
Cell: 561 758 8894
Night Phone: 561 622 0960
Fax: 561 622 0960
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Corrosion of gear legs vs Gear leg Stiffners vs were legs |
primed...
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 5/10/2004 2:09:21 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
dcarter@datarecall.net writes:
An aluminum air filter body (in-line on my shop air compressor/tank) was
powder coated at the factory and corroded through and blew out. Based on
that single data point, powder coating seems worthless as a corrosion
resisting treatment.
=============================
I've explained this fact numerous times on the list, without garnering much
interest.
GV (RV-6A N1GV flying 690 hrs)
Not all questions or values which human beings find worth pursuing and
committing themselves to can be approached scientifically. There can be no doubt
that scientific theories fulfill a vital human need. But so do nonscientific
theories, whether they be in the field of cosmology or religion, art, morality,
knowledge or even science. ---Robert Todd Carroll
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@warpdriveonline.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Rich Crosley" <dirtrider@qnet.com>
>
> It seems to me that it would be easier to just epoxy the trailing edges of
> the main gear leg fairings together rather than mess with the hinges.
> Besides not being able to remove them, what's the disadvantage? Why would
> you want to remove them? It looks like you will have to remove the wheel
to
> get the hinge pin in and out anyway. What am I missing here?
>
Well, I'm not sure how often it would come up, but I do like to be able to
get to the brake lines.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
> It seems to me that it would be easier to just epoxy the trailing edges of
> the main gear leg fairings together rather than mess with the hinges.
> Besides not being able to remove them, what's the disadvantage? Why would
> you want to remove them? It looks like you will have to remove the wheel
to
> get the hinge pin in and out anyway. What am I missing here?
> > Thanks,
> Rich Crosley
> Palmdale, CA
Rich, I did exactly that and it worked just fine...
http://www.rv-8.com/Fairings.htm
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 368 hrs, sold
RV-3B, empennage
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich Crosley" <dirtrider@qnet.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings
> Besides not being able to remove them, what's the disadvantage? Why would
> you want to remove them? It looks like you will have to remove the wheel
to
> get the hinge pin in and out anyway. What am I missing here?
#1: Visual inspection at "conditional/annual" time.
#2: If you hit a large bird in flight with the "glued" seam can/will "pop"
open and the faring will leave.
#3: Having to cut them off, re-glue & re-paint IF anything goes wrong,
breaks and/or springs a leak.
#4: Having glued them together the first time and having removed them at
least five times.
On HRII N561FS (the second set) we used the hinge BUT riveted/glassed one
side and installed 4 nut plates on the other.
Used screws from the "back" side. Removal is done without pulling the hinge
pins in a couple minutes.
We take off the screw/nutplate mounted upper faring, split the seam & slide
the leg faring up and out.
Yes, Virigina if you hit a bird the faring can/will leave. Personal
observation.
Do Not Archive. KABONG (GBA) (GB GWB) 8*)
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Re: Unleaded 100 Octane |
--> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
I think 100-NoLead probably is possible, but I don't think the metal
additives are the reason for the real threat to 100LL. The problem, as
I understand it, is that 100LL is, by comparison a very small part of
the gasoline market and the oil refiners just don't want to bother with
it. Very few refineries (8 as of a year or 2 ago) still make the stuff.
If some one can correct me on this, please do. I have an IO360-B2B which
will get hung on my plane next month. I'd sure like to know that I'll
have a source of 100 oct. fuel for it well into the future.
--
Tom Sargent - RV-6A, Landing Gear.
Donald Mei wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
>
>Dear All,
>
>There is continuous discussion of "the demise of 100ll". I was recently
>refered to this info by a mutual car nut. If Sunoco can get 100 Oct without
>any "metal additives", whats to prevent the same thing from replacing 100
>LL.
>
>
>
Message 40
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| Subject: | RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Another observation from one who has had my gear leg fairings off more times
than I care to divulge!
#1) If the tabs at the top that hold the thing to the gear ever break (and
they do sometimes), you'll need to get the fairing off to fix them.
#2) You don't have to remove the wheel to get the pin out.
#3) If you fly in snow deeper than 2-3", then the fairings get trashed at
the bottom (I know this from experience and now remove them in the winter
when flying out of our snowy grass strip).
#4) If I ever need to work on the break lines I can.
They really aren't that hard to get on and off, and like another listed
posted, repairing them is MUCH easier if they're not glued permanently on.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rich Crosley
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rich Crosley" <dirtrider@qnet.com>
It seems to me that it would be easier to just epoxy the trailing edges of
the main gear leg fairings together rather than mess with the hinges.
Besides not being able to remove them, what's the disadvantage? Why would
you want to remove them? It looks like you will have to remove the wheel to
get the hinge pin in and out anyway. What am I missing here?
Thanks,
Rich Crosley
Palmdale, CA
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