Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:52 AM - Re: Advice for apartment dwelling wannabe builder? (Daniel White)
2. 04:19 AM - Re: Best way to mount Dynon (LarryRobertHelming)
3. 04:27 AM - Re: loctite PST (LarryRobertHelming)
4. 04:37 AM - Re: platenut problem (LarryRobertHelming)
5. 05:15 AM - Re: Boeing Quick Change Chuck (MSices)
6. 05:55 AM - Re: platenut problem (Gary Zilik)
7. 06:01 AM - Re: Boeing Quick Change Chuck (John Myers)
8. 07:01 AM - Re: Re: Fixing Tank Leaks (Scott Bilinski)
9. 07:23 AM - Re: platenut problem (BrooksRV6@webtv.net (Chris Brooks))
10. 07:29 AM - Re: loctite PST (qcbccgalley)
11. 07:33 AM - Re: loctite PST (Dan Checkoway)
12. 07:36 AM - Re: platenut problem (Paul Eastham)
13. 08:36 AM - Re: platenut problem (tacaruth@ralcorp.com)
14. 08:58 AM - 3s8 Fly-in Breakfast & Barbecue (Jeff & Janice)
15. 09:00 AM - Re: Advice for apartment dwelling wannabe builder? (Jim Oke)
16. 10:21 AM - Countersunk Tinnerman washers (Ken Harrill)
17. 11:21 AM - Greasing rod end bearings (Mickey Coggins)
18. 01:15 PM - Re: platenut problem (tacaruth@ralcorp.com)
19. 02:19 PM - Re: platenut problem (Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG))
20. 03:03 PM - Re: Advice for apartment dwelling wannabe builder? (Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG))
21. 03:06 PM - Re: Countersunk Tinnerman Washers (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
22. 08:20 PM - List Time Test - Please Ignore... (Matt Dralle)
23. 09:12 PM - Re: platenut problem (Darwin Barrie)
24. 09:17 PM - Regarding numbers (Darwin Barrie)
25. 09:34 PM - Traveling Tool Kit (Doug Medema)
26. 09:43 PM - Re: Greasing rod end bearings (Vanremog@aol.com)
27. 10:57 PM - Re: Traveling Tool Kit (Dan Checkoway)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Advice for apartment dwelling wannabe builder? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Daniel White" <whited@rpi.edu>
Thanks for all the input. You've all convinced me that it's definitely
possible to do the build. One of my biggest concerns, beyond the logistics
of building in my apartment, was finishing the tail kit and not being able
to proceed any further until I move. I think I'll first attend the SportAir
RV assembly workshop at the end of October, then order the empennage. Then
when I finish there'll only be less than a year left on my lease, and I can
spend that time studying the plans and dreaming up far too expensive glass
panels.
Dan
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Best way to mount Dynon |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Isler" <jlisler@alltel.net>
Subject: RV-List: Best way to mount Dynon
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Isler" <jlisler@alltel.net>
>
> What is the most popular method to mount a Dynon D-10A in an instrument
> panel? Since the face of my radios (KY-97A and KT-76A) stick out the front
> of my panel I am leaning toward the 3.125" hole in the panel. I do have
the
> flush mount bracket on order so it is an option to mount it that way also.
> Which way looks best? What's your opinion?
>
> Jerry Isler
> RV4 # 1070
> Donalsonville, GA.
((((((((((())))))))))))))
I mounted my Dynon first with the hole and it protruded out. I let it be
for a while and grow on me for a few weeks. I looked at the rest of my
panel, except for the radio stack, and they were all flush with the panel
front. I thought it could look better. It was a tight fit with the
subpanel even mounted as it was. To eliminate chafing, the subpanel should
be cutout anyway. So........
I then used the perfect hole for the Dynon to align the needed drilling for
mounting the recessed bracket screw holes. It takes some careful
filing/cutting/filing but it now looks better in my opinion with it
recessed. The only thing protruding out now is my Garmin radio stack. I
will live with that. I had to cut a hole in the subpanel for the
Dynon-needed feeds. But that really does not weaken the plane that much.
Nothing compared to the size of the hole required for the radio stack.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: loctite PST
> --> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
>
> I have been looking around for Loctite PST at hardware stores and auto
> parts stores, but haven't ben able to find it. Can any one suggest a
> source?
>
> Thanks,
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Landing gear
(((((((((())))))))))))
I just bought some at Wicks Aircraft.
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid=1813/index.html
Larry in Indiana, RV7 tipup
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: platenut problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "greg" <greg@itmack.com>
Subject: RV-List: platenut problem
> --> RV-List message posted by: "greg" <greg@itmack.com>
>
> I'm trying to mount the electric trim and the screws won't go into the
platenuts and I'm really laying into them and starting to bur the heads.
Also I'm worried about stretching the skin with all the force I'm putting
onto them.
>
> Is there any trick I'm missing or do I need to run a tap through the
platenuts?
(((((((((((()))))))))))))
You should try first enlarging your original hole that is in front of the
threads in the nutplate to open up the path for the screw to enter into the
nutplate. Do this carefully so when your drill bit just meets the nutplate
it does not bite into it. Sometimes it just an alignment problem when the
screw will not screw into the nutplate. Then as another lister pointed out,
make sure you are using the right size screw. These things can look very
similar. When you have the right size screw, use some lubricant on it when
putting it in. As a second to last resort, you could run a tap through it.
But then if you do that, you should use some locktite on the screw when you
finally insert it. Medium strength because you might want to get it back
out. If all that fails, drill off the nutplate and install a new one.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
>
>
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Boeing Quick Change Chuck |
--> RV-List message posted by: "MSices" <msices@core.com>
I have thousands of boing qc chuck bits which I originally bought on ebay.
You used to be able get them cheap on Ebay from user "reliabletools."
Mike Sices
RV8 339JA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
BrownTool@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Boeing Quick Change Chuck
--> RV-List message posted by: BrownTool@aol.com
In a message dated 6/13/2004 9:19:33 PM Central Standard Time,
tx_jayhawk@excite.com writes:
All,
Does anyone out there know anything about "Boeing Quick Change Drill
Chucks"?
I bought a real nice used Dotco drill with this chuck, but I am a little
confused.
1) Where do you get bits for it (it is not a hex-style quick change)?
2) How can you remove the chuck (it does not have an allen screw in the
bottom)?
3) What chucks do the Sioux use and can you buy them separately?
I would appreciate any help anyone can provide. Contact me off list if
desired.
Thanks,
Scott
Scott,
We can special order the Boeing Quick Change Drill Bits for you, but you
will
find they are extremely expensive. You will probably be better off and much
happier removing the Boeing Style Quick Change Chuck from your Dotco Drill
and
installing a Jacobs standard or keyless chuck. The Boeing Quick Change
system
has been around for well over 15 years now, and there is a reason it has not
migrated to the rest of the industry including the home-built market ---- it
is extremely expensive! Boeing and all of the other big manufacturers are
willing to pay the cost of the system beacause it shaves thousands of man
hours
from an aircraft assembly. On smaller aircraft, or projects, the Boeing
Quick
Change System does not make economic sense. The cost of Boeing Style Quick
Change Drills is 3-4 times the cost of standard drills.
If you will call me, I will be glad to walk you through removing the chuck.
Have a pair of vise grip pliers, a vise, and a mallet ready when you call.
The
Boeing Chuck you have on your drill and the normal Jacobs Chucks all feature
3/8-24 internal threads and are interchangeable from drill to drill.
Hope I have helped.
Michael Brown
Brown Aviation Tool Supply Co.
3801 S. Meridian Ave.
Oklahoma City, OK 73119
USA
1-800-587-3883
405-688-6888
Fax 405-688-6555
browntool@aol.com
www.browntool.com
---
Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
---
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: platenut problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
Are you using the proper screw size?
Is the platenut the proper size for the intended screw?
Is the platenut threaded?
I have found a couple of odd sized platenuts in the bags. I try and
check to make sure that when I'm installing #8 platenuts that I don't
have a couple of 6's mixed in. It happens. I have also run into the rare
unthreaded platenut.
Z
greg wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "greg" <greg@itmack.com>
>
>I'm trying to mount the electric trim and the screws won't go into the platenuts
and I'm really laying into them and starting to bur the heads. Also I'm worried
about stretching the skin with all the force I'm putting onto them.
>
>Is there any trick I'm missing or do I need to run a tap through the platenuts?
>
>
>
>
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Boeing Quick Change Chuck |
--> RV-List message posted by: John Myers <jmyers@powernet.org>
Scott, Cleaveland tool has a quick change chuck that I think they call a
Boeing chuck or it is a copy of same. You might want to check with
them. They are kind of expensive. It is a bit of a choker to pay almost
as much for the chuck and male heads as you do for the drill. I have one
on my Sioux and have really enjoyed it. My Sioux came with a Jacobs that I
took off and put on a quick change adapter for those odd size bits that you
might need on occasion. The Quick change chuck just screws on like the
Jacobs.
Hope that helps.
John
At 09:18 PM 6/13/2004, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
>
>All,
>
>Does anyone out there know anything about "Boeing Quick Change Drill
>Chucks"? I bought a real nice used Dotco drill with this chuck, but I am
>a little confused.
>
>1) Where do you get bits for it (it is not a hex-style quick change)?
>
>2) How can you remove the chuck (it does not have an allen screw in
>the bottom)?
>
>3) What chucks do the Sioux use and can you buy them separately?
>
>I would appreciate any help anyone can provide. Contact me off list if
>desired.
>
>Thanks,
>Scott
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Fixing Tank Leaks |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Also apply what would be the equivalent of a patch over the hole with a
piece of metal, works great.
At 10:57 PM 6/12/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
>
>Dwight;
>I have used Pro-Seal from the outside and had good results with it. A
>neighbor had a Toyota with a matchstem size hole in the bottom of the
>tank. I used
>emery cloth to sand it, With fuel running out, and applied pro-Seal
>liberally.
> I had to pat the Pro-Seal back up as it would form a bubble with the weight
>of the fuel. After 15-20 minutes it set up enough to stay in place and
>stopped the leak. He drove the car for several more years. I have done
>the same on
>my wifes antique car and it worked OK.
>I have fixed RV tank leaks by sanding with #40 grit and wash with MEK,then
>apply Pro-Seal liberally. It will work.
>
>
>Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
>A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
>Charleston,Arkansas
>Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: platenut problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: BrooksRV6@webtv.net (Chris Brooks)
Go to the hardware store and get a allen socket head screw. you can run
it in to loosen the platenut a little without pushing in on it, or
stripping it out.
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "qcbccgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Last time I looked I saw it at an autoparts store.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: loctite PST
> --> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
>
> I have been looking around for Loctite PST at hardware stores and auto
> parts stores, but haven't ben able to find it. Can any one suggest a
> source?
>
> Thanks,
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Landing gear
>
>
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Loctite 565 is available here:
http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?9412
http://robertstool.com:8091/index.pl/loc
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: loctite PST
> --> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
>
> I have been looking around for Loctite PST at hardware stores and auto
> parts stores, but haven't ben able to find it. Can any one suggest a
> source?
>
> Thanks,
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Landing gear
>
>
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: platenut problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Eastham <eastham@netapp.com>
I received the wrong size platenuts in my empennage kit and did not
realize it until the elevator was closed. Mine were too big, though.
I yelled at van's to check their stock, but got the feeling I was
being ignored.
Paul
http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
On Mon, Jun 14, 2004 at 09:09:03AM +1000, greg wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "greg" <greg@itmack.com>
>
> I'm trying to mount the electric trim and the screws won't go into the platenuts
and I'm really laying into them and starting to bur the heads. Also I'm worried
about stretching the skin with all the force I'm putting onto them.
>
> Is there any trick I'm missing or do I need to run a tap through the platenuts?
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: platenut problem |
06/14/2004 10:34:07 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: tacaruth@ralcorp.com
Also, check to make sure the platenuts are threaded. I've had enough
un-threaded ones that I check every one before I rivet it on. There will
be LOTS of platenuts to follow.
Tom,
RV-7A, still working on canopy
"Dale Ellis"
<rv8builder@world
net.att.net> To
Sent by: <rv-list@matronics.com>
owner-rv-list-ser cc
ver@matronics.com
Subject
Re: RV-List: platenut problem
06/13/2004 09:01
PM
Please respond to
rv-list@matronics
.com
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dale Ellis" <rv8builder@worldnet.att.net>
I had a couple of nutplates like yours and I ended up replacing them with
"floating" nutplates. Look under Aircraft Spruce part number F5000-08.
The
nut part of this device floats and the threads of the screw are much easier
to engage.
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: "greg" <greg@itmack.com>
Subject: RV-List: platenut problem
> --> RV-List message posted by: "greg" <greg@itmack.com>
>
> I'm trying to mount the electric trim and the screws won't go into the
platenuts and I'm really laying into them and starting to bur the heads.
Also I'm worried about stretching the skin with all the force I'm putting
onto them.
>
> Is there any trick I'm missing or do I need to run a tap through the
platenuts?
>
>
If you are not the intended addressee indicated in this message (or
responsible for delivery of the message to such person), you may not copy
message and kindly notify the sender by reply email. Please advise
immediately if you or your employer do not consent to internet email for
messages of this kind.
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | 3s8 Fly-in Breakfast & Barbecue |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff & Janice" <jefft@chatlink.com>
All are invited to the Grants Pass Oregon Fly-In Festivities at the Grants Pass
Airport (3s8) Saturday June 26 7:00am to 3:00pm. Pancakes, Ham & Eggs or Biscuits
& Gravy for breakfast and our soon to be famous lunch time BBQ with great
Burgers and Polish Dogs.
We expect award-winning RV's and Rockets from Milani ShowPlanes along with experimentals,
antiques and even a turbine powered Quicksilver ultra-light.
Hoping you all can make it to 3s8 where we speak RV, the Rogue River flows and
the sun is always shining on June 26!!!
Contact: Alan King 541-471-7400 Jeff Tompkins 542-479-5692 Steve Martin 541-479-4221
do not archive
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Advice for apartment dwelling wannabe builder? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
Hi Dan;
Don't limit yourself to just working on a tail kit. If you press on with the
"slow-build" wing and fuselage kits (for most any model RV) you will find
there are lot of small sub assemblies and parts preparation jobs that you
can tackle in quite confined spaces and get out of the way in preparation
for the day when you do have access to the space needed for final assembly.
Straightening and prepping wing ribs, blind nuts on the spars, that sort of
thing. Have a look at Sam Buchanan's web site for his approach to this.
You could even assemble a prepunched fuselage in stages, do the match
drilling, then take it apart and do the deburring & dimpling and priming,
etc. that is needed in any case and then pack the parts away for later use.
Ailerons and flaps are reasonable "small apartment" jobs, too. Lots of guys
get their airplanes on the gear and then start thinking instrument panel for
months. Perhaps spend that time now and, with suitable attention to behind
panel structure considerations, cut and wire your panel while you are still
in your apartment. Its another reasonable kitchen table size project.
Jim Oke
RV-3, RV-6A
Winnipeg, MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Daniel White" <whited@rpi.edu>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Advice for apartment dwelling wannabe builder?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Daniel White" <whited@rpi.edu>
>
> Thanks for all the input. You've all convinced me that it's definitely
> possible to do the build. One of my biggest concerns, beyond the
logistics
> of building in my apartment, was finishing the tail kit and not being able
> to proceed any further until I move. I think I'll first attend the
SportAir
> RV assembly workshop at the end of October, then order the empennage.
Then
> when I finish there'll only be less than a year left on my lease, and I
can
> spend that time studying the plans and dreaming up far too expensive glass
> panels.
>
> Dan
>
>
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Countersunk Tinnerman washers |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ken Harrill <KHarrill@osa.state.sc.us>
I have discovered that my drawer for #8 countersunk washers contains washers
with two OD's. One is the common 9/16" OD (.56") and the others are 1/2 "
OD (.500"). I have a need for
about 100 of the washers with the smaller OD ( another story, don't ask) but
I can't locate the source. I have checked many of the usual hardware
sources to no avail. A source must exist since I have some. Can anyone
tell me where to get #8 countersunk Tinnerman washers with an OD of 1/2"
(.500")?
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Ken Harrill
RV-6,
325+ hours
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Greasing rod end bearings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi,
What's the procedure for keeping the rod end bearings
well lubricated? They come with a bit of grease on
them, but should I try to pack them more? How often
do they need to be either re-greased or replaced?
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: platenut problem |
06/14/2004 03:14:46 PM
--> RV-List message posted by: tacaruth@ralcorp.com
Also, check to make sure the platenuts are threaded. I've had enough
un-threaded ones that I check every one before I rivet it on. There will
be LOTS of platenuts to follow.
Tom,
RV-7A, still working on canopy
"Dale Ellis"
<rv8builder@world
net.att.net> To
Sent by: <rv-list@matronics.com>
owner-rv-list-ser cc
ver@matronics.com
Subject
Re: RV-List: platenut problem
06/13/2004 09:01
PM
Please respond to
rv-list@matronics
.com
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dale Ellis" <rv8builder@worldnet.att.net>
I had a couple of nutplates like yours and I ended up replacing them with
"floating" nutplates. Look under Aircraft Spruce part number F5000-08.
The
nut part of this device floats and the threads of the screw are much easier
to engage.
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: "greg" <greg@itmack.com>
Subject: RV-List: platenut problem
> --> RV-List message posted by: "greg" <greg@itmack.com>
>
> I'm trying to mount the electric trim and the screws won't go into the
platenuts and I'm really laying into them and starting to bur the heads.
Also I'm worried about stretching the skin with all the force I'm putting
onto them.
>
> Is there any trick I'm missing or do I need to run a tap through the
platenuts?
>
>
If you are not the intended addressee indicated in this message (or
responsible for delivery of the message to such person), you may not copy
message and kindly notify the sender by reply email. Please advise
immediately if you or your employer do not consent to internet email for
messages of this kind.
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | platenut problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst@ucol.ac.nz>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "greg" <greg@itmack.com>
>
> I'm trying to mount the electric trim and the screws won't go into the
platenuts and I'm really laying into them and starting to bur the heads.
Also I'm worried about stretching the skin with all the force I'm
putting onto them.
Well done... you stopped soon enough. A bit more force and you'd
probably break the screw (voice of experience :-( )
> Is there any trick I'm missing or do I need to run a tap through the
platenuts?
From http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/bunnys-guide/rv/bunny/hs_vs.htm:
The #6 nutplates are very tight... I broke one screw trying to screw it
in. And then worried for several years (no, really!) what to do about
it. After that time had gone by, it was no big deal. By then, I had
plenty of practice at drilling out rivets. So I drilled out the rivets
holding the platenut with the broken screw, and replaced the platenut.
Rick Fogerson <rfogerson@baf.com> suggested to the RV-list: Rather than
ream them out, take some of the oval-ness out. Before I installed
nutplates, I put them in a vice and tried a screw in them. If they were
so tight I couldn't get the screw in without slipping, I took a vice
grip and carefully made the hole slightly more round by squeezing it
until the screw was manageable but still tight. If you can still get to
the end of the installed nutplate, you can try it but take it easy.
Frank
Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
Learning.
Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
future
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Advice for apartment dwelling wannabe builder? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst@ucol.ac.nz>
There's a lot of work that can be done on the wing kit before you
actually assemble them... Building spars, bellcrank assemblies, fuel
tanks, flaps, and ailerons. Fluting and deburring ribs. See
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/bunnys-guide/rv/log/log97.htm
Frank
--> RV-List message posted by: "Daniel White" <whited@rpi.edu>
Then when I finish there'll only be less than a year left on my lease,
and I can spend that time studying the plans and dreaming up far too
expensive glass panels.
Dan
Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
Learning.
Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
future
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Countersunk Tinnerman Washers |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
I have prdered for years from : PSA Enterprises .Lakeland , Florida. Their
toll free order number is : 800-922-4491 I talked to Bob and he has
always been very helpful.
I used stainless screws and tinnerman washers in manufacturing landing lights.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | List Time Test - Please Ignore... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Timestamp: 6/14/04 20:19 PST
Please ignore. I'm working on getting the list messages out of the queue a
bit faster. Delivery of this message will be the test of my handy work...
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
List Admin
do not archive
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: platenut problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
Hi Greg,
I made a little jig and "season" all nutplates before installation. Seems even
more important the smaller the nut plate.
I use the jig and the appropriate size Allen screw. I have 2" sections of Allen
wrenches for all of the various screws that I chuck up in the cordless drill.
This eliminates messing up the heads of Phillips screws. I put a drop of oil
on the screw and run it through the nutplate. Good to go.
There is a possibility you got a couple of bad ones. Kinda like that bag of peanuts
at the ball game!!
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Regarding numbers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
Probably a little on the technical side but what constitutes a 12" number. For
example my neighbor has a beautiful RV8 with the base numerals at 9". After he
shadowed them (outlined, highlighted whatever) they are about 13."
Does this cover the 12" rule when required? Just thinking ahead as I finalize the
paint scheme.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Traveling Tool Kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Medema" <dmedema@att.net>
Hi all,
Father's day is here and I told my family I would come up with
a list of tools to make up a tool kit I would keep in the plane.
I know lot's of you keep some tools with you, so let's hit the
keyboards and either email me or to the list with a list of
"gotta have" or "sure wish I woulda had" tools that would make
up a small traveling tool kit.
Thanks,
Doug Medema RV-6A N276DM.
---
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Greasing rod end bearings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 6/14/2004 11:22:33 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
mick-matronics@rv8.ch writes:
What's the procedure for keeping the rod end bearings
well lubricated? They come with a bit of grease on
them, but should I try to pack them more? How often
do they need to be either re-greased or replaced?
===========================
Most light duty types, like the ones we use, are sealed with lifetime grease
inside. For our applications, I would guess that the existing lubrication
would probably last the life of your airframe, but they might benefit
periodically from a little 30W oil to replace what separates from the grease over
time. They are really not very highly stressed items.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 701 hrs; last trip, Sedona)
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Traveling Tool Kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> "gotta have" or "sure wish I woulda had" tools that would make
> up a small traveling tool kit.
My kit is pretty simple and is still being developed over time. I bring it
everywhere I go, regardless of how far I'm travelling.
- small first aid kit
- spare screws, washers, and nuts of all sizes
- spare fuses of all ratings used
- cotter pins of various sizes
- about 4' of .032" safety wire
- tie wraps
- 1x new UREM37BY spark plug
- copper crush washers for spark plugs
- 4x automotive plugs
- duct tape
- aluminum tape
- electrical tape
- masking tape
- heat wrap tape
- silicone tape
- sharpie marker
- small wire cutters
- Leatherman tool
- small retractable razor
- screwdrivers:
- 1 ratcheting w/bits
- 1 stubby Phillips
- 1 very small Phillips
- 1 very small flat head
- needle nose pliers
- 1/4" drive ratchet & sockets (1/4" thru 1/2")
- 1/4", 3/8", & 7/16" open end wrenches
- 5/16" nut driver
- small crescent wrench
- small flashlight
- fingerless gloves w/integrated lights
- rags
- oil spout adapter
- disposable paper funnels
- plastic cup
- small plastic part bin
The whole thing maybe weighs 5 pounds and lives in a small duffel bag that I
keep behind my seat.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|