Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:19 AM - Wing Jig (David Fenstermacher)
2. 02:04 AM - Re: Wing Jig (Patrick Kelley)
3. 03:59 AM - Re: RV-List Digest: 27 Msgs - 10/30/04 (Tom Martin)
4. 05:50 AM - Archangel Efis (Arnold de Brie)
5. 05:55 AM - RV7 QB tanks (David Figgins)
6. 06:03 AM - Re: Angle valve IO-360 oil sump part # needed (Charlie Kuss)
7. 06:26 AM - Re: RV7 QB tanks (Pat Hatch)
8. 06:39 AM - >Re:Wing Jig (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
9. 06:56 AM - Van's Horizontal Filtered Airbox (Jim Gray)
10. 07:04 AM - Re: Wing Jig (Allen Fulmer)
11. 07:47 AM - Installing big radios and transponders (Mickey Coggins)
12. 08:28 AM - Re: (Mike Robertson)
13. 08:56 AM - Re: RV7 QB tanks (Ed Anderson)
14. 09:18 AM - Re: RV7 QB tanks (steve zicree)
15. 09:23 AM - Re: RV7 QB tanks (steve zicree)
16. 09:42 AM - Compressor (richard dudley)
17. 10:00 AM - Dip stick oil seep help (LML Klingmuller)
18. 10:06 AM - Re: Archangel Efis (D Paul Deits)
19. 10:36 AM - Re: Van's Horizontal Filtered Airbox (Brian Denk)
20. 10:36 AM - Re: RV7 QB tanks (Ed Anderson)
21. 10:38 AM - Re: Dip stick oil seep help (Brian Denk)
22. 10:47 AM - Re: Dip stick oil seep help (Jerry Springer)
23. 10:49 AM - Re: RV7 QB tanks (Wayne Glasser)
24. 10:54 AM - Landing lights (Jim & Kathy McChesney)
25. 11:21 AM - Rear Window / Top Skin Pucker (Mike Holland)
26. 11:23 AM - Re: Dip stick oil seep help (Dan Checkoway)
27. 12:00 PM - Re: Angle valve IO-360 oil sump part # needed (Greg Young)
28. 12:40 PM - fuse order time (Greg@itmack)
29. 01:04 PM - Re: Rear Window / Top Skin Pucker (Ed Anderson)
30. 01:07 PM - Re: Van's Horizontal Filtered Airbox (Greg Young)
31. 01:07 PM - Re: Landing lights (Randy Lervold)
32. 01:26 PM - Re: RV7 QB tanks (David Figgins)
33. 03:04 PM - OT (well not really)...quote pertinent to QB vs. standard kit (Andrew Douglas)
34. 03:36 PM - Free Starter.... Seattle area (John Ammeter)
35. 03:36 PM - Re: OT (well not really)...quote pertinent to QB vs. standard kit (Kathleen@rv7.us)
36. 03:45 PM - Re: Van's Horizontal Filtered Airbox (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
37. 04:14 PM - Re: OT (well not really)...quote pertinent to QB vs. standard (Chris W)
38. 04:30 PM - Re: OT (well not really)...quote pertinent to QB vs. standard kit (JOHN STARN)
39. 05:21 PM - Re: Archangel Efis (linn walters)
40. 05:22 PM - Re: fuse order time (Sam Buchanan)
41. 05:36 PM - Re: Dip stick oil seep help (linn walters)
42. 10:14 PM - Re: firewall recess in a QB 0.00 FORGED_RCVD_HELO (thomas a. sargent)
43. 10:18 PM - RV-6A Main Gear Leg Fairings. (DEAN PSIROPOULOS)
Message 1
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0.50 MIME_BOUND_NEXTPART Spam tool pattern in MIME boundary
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Fenstermacher" <dfenstermacher@earthlink.net>
No luck in the archives.
Building the wing jig.
What is the best height for the angle iron used to clamp the main spar?
There isn't a dimension on the drawing.
Want to try to get it comfortable; as I will be living with it for some time.
I'm about 5'8" tall, if that matters at all.
Dave
Message 2
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster@flion.com>
Main spar at shoulder level. You will have to reach up for the leading
edge, down for the trailing edge. That's about the best compromise.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - fuselage bottom skins ready to rivet
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Fenstermacher
Subject: RV-List: Wing Jig
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Fenstermacher"
<dfenstermacher@earthlink.net>
No luck in the archives.
Building the wing jig.
What is the best height for the angle iron used to clamp the main spar?
There isn't a dimension on the drawing.
Want to try to get it comfortable; as I will be living with it for some
time.
I'm about 5'8" tall, if that matters at all.
Dave
Message 3
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|
| Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 27 Msgs - 10/30/04 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Martin" <fairlea@execulink.com>
Perfect, thanks
Tom Martin
Fairlea Field
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV-List Digest
Server
Subject: RV-List Digest: 27 Msgs - 10/30/04
*
==================================================
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RV-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Sat 10/30/04: 27
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:55 AM - Re: RV8 Sale (CBRxxDRV@aol.com)
2. 05:05 AM - Horizontal Filtered Airbox kit (Ron Schreck)
3. 05:30 AM - Re: Horizontal Filtered Airbox kit (Jim Cimino)
4. 05:30 AM - Re: Flightline Interiors question (Andrew Douglas)
5. 06:40 AM - Van's LSA? (was: RV8 Sale) (Ken Simmons)
6. 06:52 AM - Re: RV8 Sale (LarryRobertHelming)
7. 07:07 AM - Re: Van's LSA? (was: RV8 Sale) (Jerry Springer)
8. 07:35 AM - Re: RV8 Sale (BRUCE GRAY)
9. 07:49 AM - Re: Van's LSA? (was: RV8 Sale) (Ed Anderson)
10. 07:49 AM - Re: Van's LSA? (was: RV8 Sale) (CBRxxDRV@aol.com)
11. 08:49 AM - Breaks question (bertrv6@highstream.net)
12. 10:14 AM - Re: Breaks question (Jeff Point)
13. 10:56 AM - [ Neal George ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
(Email List Photo Shares)
14. 10:57 AM - Sandia and Garmin (LarryRobertHelming)
15. 11:18 AM - firewall recess in a QB (thomas a. sargent)
16. 11:43 AM - Re: firewall recess in a QB 0.00 FORGED_RCVD_HELO
17. 02:23 PM - Help with Elevator and HS clearance... (Matt Johnson)
18. 02:37 PM - Re: Help with Elevator and HS clearance... (not
processed: message from (Brian Denk)
19. 02:50 PM - Wing storage rack (James H Nelson)
20. 05:47 PM - Re: narco radios (CBRxxDRV@aol.com)
21. 06:52 PM - Clecoes (richard dudley)
22. 07:12 PM - (steve zicree)
23. 08:07 PM - Re: (Kyle Boatright)
24. 08:16 PM - Angle valve IO-360 oil sump part # needed (Charlie Kuss)
25. 09:12 PM - Re: Angle valve IO-360 oil sump part # needed
(Hopperdhh@aol.com)
26. 09:46 PM - Re: Angle valve IO-360 oil sump part # needed (Gregory
Young)
27. 10:04 PM - Re: Angle valve IO-360 oil sump part # needed (Charlie
Kuss)
________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
Time: 04:55:59 AM PST US
From: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 Sale
--> RV-List message posted by: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
In a message dated 10/30/04 1:20:55 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
brucerv84us@hotmail.com writes:
> I am curious to all that are unloading there RV8's? Is winter coming and
> everyone is itching to build something else or what? It is funny to see
> people let go of there aircraft and have nothing to fall back on for there
> "rotate the world 3g get away". Like I said, just curious?
>
Having built before I can give you a perspective.
Building is truly half the fun. Flying is great but the build ends
up being something you enjoy. When the DAR signed off my
first project he said he would see me again. He was right. When
you find the time in your life to build and the project is done there is
a hole that needs to be filled and watching TV is not the answer.
So with all this money tied up in a plane some need to sell one to
move onto the next. Some have waited for the RV-10, some decide
they want a side by side, some feel they want to try a tandem.
But the fact remains that this is a learning process and about the
time you are done you are sure you could do better.
I just sold my beloved champ to fund the RV-8........the QB is on
the roadway truck. I will fly my RV-4 (someone else's build) until
the 8 is done. If Vans has the Sport pilot (LSA) plane designed by then I
sell the -4 and start again. When the LSA is done the -8 will be sold.
Some have a plan........others needs change........Some have life changes.
Some never build and miss the best part.
46 7AC (sold)
RV-4
RV-8 Tail (QB on the truck)
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL.
My Home Page
Do not archive
________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
Time: 05:05:31 AM PST US
From: "Ron Schreck" <ronschreck@mail.webkorner.com>
Subject: RV-List: Horizontal Filtered Airbox kit
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Schreck" <ronschreck@mail.webkorner.com>
I'm building the baffles for my IO360 in the RV-8. I have the fiberglass
intake
and filter that mounts to the left baffle intake floor but I can't find any
information or parts to construct a box for the filter. Does anyone have
any
references or pictures to help me out? Was there something supplied in the
kit
that I have misplaced? I can't even find a drawing! Help!
Ron Schreck
Baffled
Sent via the WebMail system at mail.webkorner.com
________________________________ Message 3
_____________________________________
Time: 05:30:20 AM PST US
From: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino@echoes.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Horizontal Filtered Airbox kit
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino@echoes.net>
The filter sits inside the end of the fiberglass intake. It is sandwiched
between the fiberglass intake and the left baffle floor. You make two
brackets to bolt it up to the baffle floor.
Jim
James Cimino
RV-8 SN 80039
100+ Hours
570-842-4057
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Schreck" <ronschreck@mail.webkorner.com>
Subject: RV-List: Horizontal Filtered Airbox kit
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Schreck"
> <ronschreck@mail.webkorner.com>
>
> I'm building the baffles for my IO360 in the RV-8. I have the fiberglass
> intake and filter that mounts to the left baffle intake floor but I can't
> find any information or parts to construct a box for the filter. Does
> anyone have any references or pictures to help me out? Was there
> something supplied in the kit that I have misplaced? I can't even find a
> drawing! Help!
>
> Ron Schreck
> Baffled
>
>
> Sent via the WebMail system at mail.webkorner.com
>
>
>
________________________________ Message 4
_____________________________________
Time: 05:30:47 AM PST US
From: Andrew Douglas <adouglas@optonline.net>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Flightline Interiors question
--> RV-List message posted by: Andrew Douglas <adouglas@optonline.net>
> All this is wrapped in a synthetic leather. It is very supple, durable,
and
> comfortable.
You might want to ask about a long-term warranty, say 10 years or more.
I can't say exactly what your material is, but I had a recent experience
with synthetic leather that you might find interesting.
I have a set of the Oregon Aero Soft Seal headset earcup cushions on my
David Clarks, purchased about 12 years ago when they first came out. I
stopped flying soon after, and the headset went into its bag and got put in
the attic. During its time up there, it got exposed to extremes of
temperature, just like your airplane will.
These pads are covered in synthetic leather that is very supple and
comfortable, and that I thought was very durable.
A couple of weeks ago, inspired by SpaceShip One, I started seriously
considering flying again. So I hunted up the two most important things: My
logbook with my license inside, and my headset.
To my dismay, I found the "leather" surface to be crumbly and flaking off,
exposing the cloth backing. It was so bad that if I put the headset on, it
would leave little flakes of the stuff all over the sides of my head.
Initially I suspected exposure to sweat and body oils. However, after
removing the cushions I found I could rub the "leather" off of its backing
even on the tucked-away hidden inner surfaces that never came close to my
skin. I'm guessing it's a straight age- and long-term oxidation-related
issue. Can't be UV, because the headset was in its bag.
I now have a pair of very comfortable, CLOTH covered ear seals.
For all I know your material might be different and resistant to this sort
of thing.
PS: The mic cover (ordinary foam) also crumbled to dust. The rest of the
headset appears to be fine, including the original Oregon Aero Soft Top wool
cushion (in it's way-cool saddle backing/natural wool color).
-----------------------------------------------------
Andrew Douglas
Do not archive
________________________________ Message 5
_____________________________________
Time: 06:40:10 AM PST US
From: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
Subject: RV-List: Van's LSA? (was: RV8 Sale)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
I apologize if I've missed this, but does Van's have plans to produce an LSA
qualified
plane/kit? Is it just a rumor/hope or have they made such an announcement?
Thanks.
Ken
DO NOT ARCHIVE
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
>--> RV-List message posted by: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 10/30/04 1:20:55 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>brucerv84us@hotmail.com writes:
>
>
>> I am curious to all that are unloading there RV8's? Is winter coming and
>> everyone is itching to build something else or what? It is funny to see
>> people let go of there aircraft and have nothing to fall back on for
there
>> "rotate the world 3g get away". Like I said, just curious?
>>
>
>Having built before I can give you a perspective.
>Building is truly half the fun. Flying is great but the build ends
>up being something you enjoy. When the DAR signed off my
>first project he said he would see me again. He was right. When
>you find the time in your life to build and the project is done there is
>a hole that needs to be filled and watching TV is not the answer.
>So with all this money tied up in a plane some need to sell one to
>move onto the next. Some have waited for the RV-10, some decide
>they want a side by side, some feel they want to try a tandem.
>But the fact remains that this is a learning process and about the
>time you are done you are sure you could do better.
>
>I just sold my beloved champ to fund the RV-8........the QB is on
>the roadway truck. I will fly my RV-4 (someone else's build) until
>the 8 is done. If Vans has the Sport pilot (LSA) plane designed by then I
>sell the -4 and start again. When the LSA is done the -8 will be sold.
>
>Some have a plan........others needs change........Some have life changes.
>
>
>Some never build and miss the best part.
>
>
>46 7AC (sold)
>RV-4
>RV-8 Tail (QB on the truck)
>
>Sal Capra
>Lakeland, FL.
> My Home Page
>
>Do not archive
>
>
________________________________ Message 6
_____________________________________
Time: 06:52:23 AM PST US
From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 Sale
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Speculation: Keep in mind I am building a 7 with the main feature being
side by side seating experience.
> I am curious to all that are unloading there RV8's? Is winter coming and
> everyone is itching to build something else or what? It is funny to see
> people let go of there aircraft and have nothing to fall back on for there
> "rotate the world 3g get away". Like I said, just curious?
No intent to start a 'cold' war here, but the 8s are front and back seating.
With the side by side RVs, you at least have someone to hold your hand when
you get cold while flying in winter weather. I think most of them -- that
you call it are unloading -- are looking for comfort rather than higher
performance and being cold alone up front. Maybe they have done their all
alone thing and are moving on to nurse-guided wheel chairs and things as
such. Some, but not all, of us do get a bit older every day. Maybe on the
other hand, the higher cost of petro is part of it. Insurance is not going
down either. Hanger fees, taxes, more deer need to be scared off the
runways before landing and more and more large birds. Flying is not a
undertaking for those without lots of spare $$. The economy is not perking.
AND,,,,,, did anyone realize we have an election coming in a couple days.
TV revenues will then be down. Then again -- Maybe they just want to stay
home and watch TV without all the political commercials. do not archive
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
----- Original Message -----
From: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV8 Sale
> --> RV-List message posted by: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us@hotmail.com>
>
> I am curious to all that are unloading there RV8's? Is winter coming and
> everyone is itching to build something else or what? It is funny to see
> people let go of there aircraft and have nothing to fall back on for there
> "rotate the world 3g get away". Like I said, just curious?
>
> On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to
> get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement
>
>
________________________________ Message 7
_____________________________________
Time: 07:07:07 AM PST US
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's LSA? (was: RV8 Sale)
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
When I had breakfast with Van two weeks ago I asked him this very
question. His answer was that they were waiting to see
what the final qualifications were going to be and what kind of demand
there was going to be. I am sure like all of the rest of his
designs that if there is a need he will fill it. :-)
Jerry
Ken Simmons wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
>
>I apologize if I've missed this, but does Van's have plans to produce an
LSA qualified
plane/kit? Is it just a rumor/hope or have they made such an announcement?
>
>Thanks.
>Ken
>
>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
>---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
>From: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
>Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2004 07:54:53 EDT
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
>>
>>In a message dated 10/30/04 1:20:55 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>>brucerv84us@hotmail.com writes:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>I am curious to all that are unloading there RV8's? Is winter coming and
>>>everyone is itching to build something else or what? It is funny to see
>>>people let go of there aircraft and have nothing to fall back on for
there
>>>"rotate the world 3g get away". Like I said, just curious?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>Having built before I can give you a perspective.
>>Building is truly half the fun. Flying is great but the build ends
>>up being something you enjoy. When the DAR signed off my
>>first project he said he would see me again. He was right. When
>>you find the time in your life to build and the project is done there is
>>a hole that needs to be filled and watching TV is not the answer.
>>So with all this money tied up in a plane some need to sell one to
>>move onto the next. Some have waited for the RV-10, some decide
>>they want a side by side, some feel they want to try a tandem.
>>But the fact remains that this is a learning process and about the
>>time you are done you are sure you could do better.
>>
>>I just sold my beloved champ to fund the RV-8........the QB is on
>>the roadway truck. I will fly my RV-4 (someone else's build) until
>>the 8 is done. If Vans has the Sport pilot (LSA) plane designed by then I
>>sell the -4 and start again. When the LSA is done the -8 will be sold.
>>
>>Some have a plan........others needs change........Some have life changes.
>>
>>
>>Some never build and miss the best part.
>>
>>
>>46 7AC (sold)
>>RV-4
>>RV-8 Tail (QB on the truck)
>>
>>Sal Capra
>>Lakeland, FL.
>>My Home Page
>>
>>Do not archive
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________ Message 8
_____________________________________
Time: 07:35:43 AM PST US
From: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 Sale
--> RV-List message posted by: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us@hotmail.com>
Like I said, "I was curious". I am about done with the wings of my 8 right
now. I can relate because I already have the plans to a RV3 and will
probably use my RV8 as a money vehicle for the RV7 I would also like to
build. I too am in the build bug mode. It was just odd that all these 8's
started showing up on the market. Thank you for your insight to my question.
Bruce Gray RV8 Wing's #81745
>From: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 Sale
>Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2004 07:54:53 EDT
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 10/30/04 1:20:55 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>brucerv84us@hotmail.com writes:
>
>
> > I am curious to all that are unloading there RV8's? Is winter coming and
> > everyone is itching to build something else or what? It is funny to see
> > people let go of there aircraft and have nothing to fall back on for
>there
> > "rotate the world 3g get away". Like I said, just curious?
> >
>
>Having built before I can give you a perspective.
>Building is truly half the fun. Flying is great but the build ends
>up being something you enjoy. When the DAR signed off my
>first project he said he would see me again. He was right. When
>you find the time in your life to build and the project is done there is
>a hole that needs to be filled and watching TV is not the answer.
>So with all this money tied up in a plane some need to sell one to
>move onto the next. Some have waited for the RV-10, some decide
>they want a side by side, some feel they want to try a tandem.
>But the fact remains that this is a learning process and about the
>time you are done you are sure you could do better.
>
>I just sold my beloved champ to fund the RV-8........the QB is on
>the roadway truck. I will fly my RV-4 (someone else's build) until
>the 8 is done. If Vans has the Sport pilot (LSA) plane designed by then I
>sell the -4 and start again. When the LSA is done the -8 will be sold.
>
>Some have a plan........others needs change........Some have life changes.
>
>
>Some never build and miss the best part.
>
>
>46 7AC (sold)
>RV-4
>RV-8 Tail (QB on the truck)
>
>Sal Capra
>Lakeland, FL.
> My Home Page
>
>Do not archive
>
>
________________________________ Message 9
_____________________________________
Time: 07:49:22 AM PST US
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's LSA? (was: RV8 Sale)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's LSA? (was: RV8 Sale)
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>
> When I had breakfast with Van two weeks ago I asked him this very
> question. His answer was that they were waiting to see
> what the final qualifications were going to be and what kind of demand
> there was going to be. I am sure like all of the rest of his
> designs that if there is a need he will fill it. :-)
>
> Jerry
>
>
Its interesting to note that Van has resisted (in the early stages) several
models in his line-up. He originally was against a side-by-side as he
couldn't imagine why people would want it compared to a tandem - well, he
has sold more RV-6s than any other model. Same for the RV-10 - resisted a 4
seater for years. He reportedly was noted as stating that he didn't think
there would be much market for the LSA - because if there were that many
people who could not pass a Class III and wanted to fly they would be flying
motorized gliders, etc. Van is well noted for being conservative and its
hard to argue with his success in bring out models when the interest is
high.
I predict we will within the next year see/hear/rumors of Van's team
designing the LSA - in fact, I would bet money that some of his design staff
are already doodling on napkins (if not on the CAD) the LSA preliminary
design.
I can't wait
Ed Anderson
________________________________ Message 10
____________________________________
Time: 07:49:22 AM PST US
From: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's LSA? (was: RV8 Sale)
--> RV-List message posted by: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
In a message dated 10/30/04 9:41:44 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
ken@truckstop.com writes:
> I apologize if I've missed this, but does Van's have plans to produce an
> LSA qualified plane/kit? Is it just a rumor/hope or have they made such an
> announcement?
>
Nothing will be done in this area until the RV-10 is in full production and
that is complete.....It will be a clean piece of paper and is a couple years
away if at all. This was per Vans. They had said At Sun-N-Fun
they were waiting to see what the final qualifications were as another
poster (Jerry) just said but that did happen at Osh Kosh.......?
I really don't think it's a priority for them right now.
I didn't mean to start a rumor. This is a question they are
asked more than you may think. I feel the demand would surprise Vans.
For now I still have a medical.
do not archive
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL
My Home Page
http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html
________________________________ Message 11
____________________________________
Time: 08:49:11 AM PST US
From: bertrv6@highstream.net
Subject: RV-List: Breaks question
--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
Hi:
I have a leak on the line that go to the breaks, passenger side.
I am ready to install new line. The tubin I have is rigid one,
"parflex 1/4 O.D. x.62 wall 500 w.p.
Now the problem is, Ineed to buy new inserts. the brass ones, that go
to the brass connections, at the master cylinders, those I have already
from local Ace hardware store....
The plastic one, these, go at the end, of tubing going to the
reservoir..
The problem, I cannot find these inserts; the ones at Spruce, are short,
with
a little hat like, at one end...the old ones, were very similar to the brass
ones, that is they are long, and the end is just a small circular rim..
Where can I get these... I do not want to buy them from Van's...
personal reasons".
I have the ones from, Spruce, they are short,, but for the life
of me, I canot insert these little rascals... Yes I have tubing in boiling
water for about 5 minutes, no luck...
That is it...is there any suggestions from the experts...I am stuck
with this now...
Thanks for the suggestions or advice or alternative methods...
Bert
rv6a
Do Not archive
________________________________ Message 12
____________________________________
Time: 10:14:57 AM PST US
From: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Breaks question
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
I'd recommend you scrap the nylon tube/ reservoir setup entirely and go
with the indivdual reservoirs which mount on the master cylinder.
Spruce sells them for about 20 bucks, and it gets rid of all the leaks.
Here's where I got the idea. His is for an -8 but the same thing can be
done to a 6.
http://www.rv-8.com/IdeasProducts.htm#PRODUCT:%20Aircraft%20Spruce%20A-600%2
0Brake%20Reservoirs
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>
________________________________ Message 13
____________________________________
Time: 10:56:45 AM PST US
Subject: RV-List: [ Neal George ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares
<pictures@matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Neal George <Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
Subject: Dimpling
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL.10.30.2004/in
dex.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures@matronics.com
________________________________ Message 14
____________________________________
Time: 10:57:54 AM PST US
From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Subject: RV-List: Sandia and Garmin
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
I need help on an avionic problem. I have a Sandia SAE5-35 encoder and
Garmin 327 and 430. I have something wired wrong because the 430 is telling
me it is not receiving altitude information and the 327 is not displaying an
altitude. I have a question in to Sandia sales/support, but thought I would
take a shot at seeing if anyone has been down this road before.
The way I wired it is to feed the serial altitude data from Sandia in the
RS232 IN 1 channel of the 327. I configure that channel on the 327 as
Icarus. The RS232 IN 1 data is sent to the 430 using the 327's RS232 OUT
1 (configured as Icarus) connecting to the 430 by the GPS RS232 IN 1
channel. I configured this as Icarus. Feel free to contact me directly
if anyone has any ideas as I doubt if many have an interest in this
particular combination. Thanks.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
________________________________ Message 15
____________________________________
Time: 11:18:17 AM PST US
From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: firewall recess in a QB
0.00 FORGED_RCVD_HELO Received: contains a forged HELO
--> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
I am about to install the firewall recess in my 6A. Since this is a QB,
the firewall area is already fully assembled. Does any one have any
suggestions about how to cut the firewall sheet cleanly after it is
rivetted to the airplane?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A
________________________________ Message 16
____________________________________
Time: 11:43:07 AM PST US
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: firewall recess in a QB 0.00 FORGED_RCVD_HELO
Received: contains a forged HELO
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Tom,
If you have or can beg, borrow or buy a Dremel tool (hobby sized hi speed
grinder) with a package of their "cut off wheel no. 409" you should get the
job done quite well.
Drill 3/32 holes at each corners from the cockpit side. Then use the holes
on the outside to tape off the cut lines. Use the Dremel to cut the hole and
finish the edges with a fine grit Dremel sanding drum or hand fie file as
needed.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: firewall recess in a QB 0.00 FORGED_RCVD_HELO Received:
contains a forged HELO
> --> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
>
> I am about to install the firewall recess in my 6A. Since this is a QB,
> the firewall area is already fully assembled. Does any one have any
> suggestions about how to cut the firewall sheet cleanly after it is
> rivetted to the airplane?
>
>
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A
>
>
>
________________________________ Message 17
____________________________________
Time: 02:23:34 PM PST US
From: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
Subject: RV-List: Help with Elevator and HS clearance...
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
At the Van's recommended elevator clearance, my elevator is 1/16 away (maybe
closer
in some spots) to the HS skin. I found very little on
this in the archives and was wondering if I did something wrong? With the -7
it
seems hard to do something wrong since the skin is pre-
drilled. I am afraid once I put paint on it it will rub. I used the vixen
file
to open the gap more (it was actually hitting before) and now there
is 1/16" gap. Why hasnt anyone else experienced this? what is the gap that
should
be between the elevator and the HS skin when at full
deflection? By the way, I have the hinge bolts at the recommended max. of
7/8".
- Matt Johnson
www.rv7a.com
________________________________ Message 18
____________________________________
Time: 02:37:44 PM PST US
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Help with Elevator and HS clearance... (not processed:
message
from
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>At the Van's recommended elevator clearance, my elevator is 1/16 away
>(maybe closer in some spots) to the HS skin. I found very little on
>this in the archives and was wondering if I did something wrong? With the
>-7 it seems hard to do something wrong since the skin is pre-
>drilled. I am afraid once I put paint on it it will rub. I used the vixen
>file to open the gap more (it was actually hitting before) and now there
>is 1/16" gap. Why hasnt anyone else experienced this? what is the gap that
>should be between the elevator and the HS skin when at full
>deflection? By the way, I have the hinge bolts at the recommended max. of
>7/8".
>
>- Matt Johnson
>www.rv7a.com
Try "massaging" the curled leading edges inward towards the elevator spars.
You might have the profile of the elevator leading edges too
"pointy"...sticking forward too far. I'm having the same issue on my RV10.
Bearings are out as far as max allowed. Had to squish the radius down a lot
to get clearance.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
________________________________ Message 19
____________________________________
Time: 02:50:46 PM PST US
Subject: RV-List: Wing storage rack
From: James H Nelson <rv9jim@juno.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: James H Nelson <rv9jim@juno.com>
Would anyone please give me the depth of the spar on the "9". I am
getting ready to pick up my QB kit wings and I am building the rack to
hold them. Has any one found the best spacing for the wings on the rack
so you can finish them (QB). The plans call for 24" between the leading
edge and the top. Is this a good dimension?
Jim Nelson
N599RV (reserved)
________________________________ Message 20
____________________________________
Time: 05:47:43 PM PST US
From: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: narco radios
--> RV-List message posted by: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
Have you sold the narcos?
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL
My Home Page
http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html
________________________________ Message 21
____________________________________
Time: 06:52:21 PM PST US
From: richard dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Subject: RV-List: Clecoes
--> RV-List message posted by: richard dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Listers,
You never can have too many clecoes.
I've reached a point where I will keep only a few.
I have 100 1/8" clecoes that I will sell for $25 and
50 3/32" for $12.50. Or the whole schmere for $35.
Please contact me off list.
Richard Dudley
________________________________ Message 22
____________________________________
Time: 07:12:27 PM PST US
From: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
Subject: RV-List:
1.16 MISSING_SUBJECT Missing Subject: header
--> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
Folks,
If I need to modify the wheel pants, do I need to use the same type of
resin as
they are made of? If so, can anyone tell me how to determine whether mine
are
epoxy or polyester? Thanks.
Steve Zicree
RV4 on its wheels!
________________________________ Message 23
____________________________________
Time: 08:07:35 PM PST US
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
You can use epoxy to repair or modify parts that were built with epoxy or
polyester resin. You can't use polyester resin to repair epoxy parts,
although it is fine on polyester parts.
Most manufacturers use polyester because it is less expensive and cures
faster.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
Subject: RV-List:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
>
> Folks,
>
> If I need to modify the wheel pants, do I need to use the same type of
> resin as they are made of? If so, can anyone tell me how to determine
> whether mine are epoxy or polyester? Thanks.
>
> Steve Zicree
> RV4 on its wheels!
>
>
>
________________________________ Message 24
____________________________________
Time: 08:16:34 PM PST US
From: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Subject: RV-List: Angle valve IO-360 oil sump part # needed
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Listers,
Can anyone tell me the part numbers for the "tuned" induction oil sump &
intake tubes for the various angle valve IO-360s? I know that the C series
has a horizontally mounted servo, but it exits the rear. I "think" the
IO-360-A1A is a vertical (updraft) version. Are there any models (besides
the new IO-360-M1B) which have a forward, horizontal induction point?
Charlie Kuss
________________________________ Message 25
____________________________________
Time: 09:12:31 PM PST US
From: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Angle valve IO-360 oil sump part # needed
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Charlie,
I don't have the part numbers, but maybe I can help a little.
The IO-360-A1A has the front facing servo, not updraft. Van's assembly
manual chapter on engines spells this out, and it is also in the engine data
sheet
posted on Dan Checkoway's website.
My engine was originally a -C1E6 which had the rear facing sump. It had
unmachined bosses on the front. I had the sump machined to install the
servo on
the front, only to find that the rear hit the (RV-7A) nose gear part of the
engine mount. I was able to find a -A1A core and used the induction system
from
it. The induction tubes set about 2 inches farther aft on the -C1E6 than on
the -A1A sump. I believe it will clear the engine mount on a tail dragger.
If
it will work for you, and you want it, it could probably be made available
to
you.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
N766DH (Flying 62 hours)
In a message dated 10/30/04 10:17:08 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
chaztuna@adelphia.net writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
>
> Listers,
> Can anyone tell me the part numbers for the "tuned" induction oil sump &
> intake tubes for the various angle valve IO-360s? I know that the C series
> has a horizontally mounted servo, but it exits the rear. I "think" the
> IO-360-A1A is a vertical (updraft) version. Are there any models (besides
> the new IO-360-M1B) which have a forward, horizontal induction point?
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
________________________________ Message 26
____________________________________
Time: 09:46:40 PM PST US
From: "Gregory Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Angle valve IO-360 oil sump part # needed
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gregory Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Bad news. The "C" sump won't work on the taildragger either without
modifying the mount, at least on a parallel valve IO-360. It's also
magnesium and costs big $$$ to add a boss for inverted oil. I had one on my
-6 and modified the mount but won't do it again. I plan to change to the
"A1A" sump on the Phoenix. That makes it essentially an IO-360-M1B.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
> Charlie,
>
> I don't have the part numbers, but maybe I can help a little.
>
> The IO-360-A1A has the front facing servo, not updraft.
> Van's assembly manual chapter on engines spells this out, and
> it is also in the engine data sheet posted on Dan Checkoway's website.
>
> My engine was originally a -C1E6 which had the rear facing
> sump. It had unmachined bosses on the front. I had the sump
> machined to install the servo on the front, only to find that
> the rear hit the (RV-7A) nose gear part of the engine mount.
> I was able to find a -A1A core and used the induction system
> from it. The induction tubes set about 2 inches farther aft
> on the -C1E6 than on the -A1A sump. I believe it will clear
> the engine mount on a tail dragger. If it will work for you,
> and you want it, it could probably be made available to you.
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A
> N766DH (Flying 62 hours)
>
________________________________ Message 27
____________________________________
Time: 10:04:19 PM PST US
From: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Angle valve IO-360 oil sump part # needed
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Dan,
I seem to remember that another RV-8A builder ran into the same problem
with a converted C series sump. I just checked my photo library. Sure
enough, the C series sump has the intake plenum located directly under the
accessory cover. I have 3 photos of this problem. This will clear the tail
dragger motor mounts, but not the tricycle motor mounts. Thanks for the
info.
Charlie
>--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
>Charlie,
>
>I don't have the part numbers, but maybe I can help a little.
>
>The IO-360-A1A has the front facing servo, not updraft. Van's assembly
>manual chapter on engines spells this out, and it is also in the engine
>data sheet
>posted on Dan Checkoway's website.
>
>My engine was originally a -C1E6 which had the rear facing sump. It had
>unmachined bosses on the front. I had the sump machined to install the
>servo on
>the front, only to find that the rear hit the (RV-7A) nose gear part of the
>engine mount. I was able to find a -A1A core and used the induction
>system from
>it. The induction tubes set about 2 inches farther aft on the -C1E6 than
on
>the -A1A sump. I believe it will clear the engine mount on a tail
>dragger. If
>it will work for you, and you want it, it could probably be made available
to
>you.
>
>Dan Hopper
>RV-7A
>N766DH (Flying 62 hours)
>
>
>In a message dated 10/30/04 10:17:08 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
>chaztuna@adelphia.net writes:
>
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
> >
> > Listers,
> > Can anyone tell me the part numbers for the "tuned" induction oil sump &
> > intake tubes for the various angle valve IO-360s? I know that the C
series
> > has a horizontally mounted servo, but it exits the rear. I "think" the
> > IO-360-A1A is a vertical (updraft) version. Are there any models
(besides
> > the new IO-360-M1B) which have a forward, horizontal induction point?
> > Charlie Kuss
> >
> >
>
>
Message 4
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Arnold de Brie" <arnold@paperchip.com>
Would anyone be interested in an Archangel Efis system complete with
AHRS, EFDS, ADS and remote flux gate compass.
It is sitting in my shop for quite a while here and the authorities here
won't let me install it in an experimental .
I fired the system up lately and it is still working fine.
The only things that have to be added are sensors for the temps/fuelflow
Contact me off-list
Arnold de Brie
The Netherlands
RV8
Message 5
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|
<rv7-list@matronics.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Figgins" <2004nospam@earthlink.net>
I think I may have run into a problem and need some advice, I have the wing
kit on order with the QB tanks (due in December), and in reading the
drawings and instruction this past couple of days I noticed a tank mod is
required for inverted flight that adds a flop tube in the standard vent line
area and moves the sender outboard one station. I am assuming the QB tanks
are in the standard configuration. Questions therefore are 1) can the tank
be modified for this mod after it is complete (i.e. can you get access and
keep inside clean) and 2) is this mod for sustained inverted flight and
regular rolls, loops etc are OK with the standard tanks.
Thanks for any input
Dave RV7A
Message 6
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|
| Subject: | Angle valve IO-360 oil sump part # needed |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Greg,
Does the A1A sump have the proper tapped ports for adding the Christian
inverted oil system?
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Gregory Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
>
>Bad news. The "C" sump won't work on the taildragger either without
>modifying the mount, at least on a parallel valve IO-360. It's also
>magnesium and costs big $$$ to add a boss for inverted oil. I had one on my
>-6 and modified the mount but won't do it again. I plan to change to the
>"A1A" sump on the Phoenix. That makes it essentially an IO-360-M1B.
>
>Regards,
>Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
>RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix
>Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
>
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
> >
> > Charlie,
> >
> > I don't have the part numbers, but maybe I can help a little.
> >
> > The IO-360-A1A has the front facing servo, not updraft.
> > Van's assembly manual chapter on engines spells this out, and
> > it is also in the engine data sheet posted on Dan Checkoway's website.
> >
> > My engine was originally a -C1E6 which had the rear facing
> > sump. It had unmachined bosses on the front. I had the sump
> > machined to install the servo on the front, only to find that
> > the rear hit the (RV-7A) nose gear part of the engine mount.
> > I was able to find a -A1A core and used the induction system
> > from it. The induction tubes set about 2 inches farther aft
> > on the -C1E6 than on the -A1A sump. I believe it will clear
> > the engine mount on a tail dragger. If it will work for you,
> > and you want it, it could probably be made available to you.
> >
> > Dan Hopper
> > RV-7A
> > N766DH (Flying 62 hours)
> >
>
>
Message 7
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV7 QB tanks |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
David,
The standard fuel pickups are fine for most aerobatics but will not work for
sustained inverted flight. But are you really going to do this? If so, are
you going to have the required inverted oil system for your engine? If not,
I would just stay with the standard pickups. I put an inverted pickup in my
first RV and realize now that it was not necessary. You could probably put
the inverted pickups in your -7 QB but it will be a mess. The tanks will
arrive with the inboard inspection plate just screwed on (without sealant)
so you can certainly gain access to do this job, but it will still be
difficult and probably not worth it, in my opinion. On the other hand, if
inverted aerobatics is your thing, it is doable, so go for it!
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Figgins" <2004nospam@earthlink.net>
<rv7-list@matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV7 QB tanks
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Figgins" <2004nospam@earthlink.net>
>
> I think I may have run into a problem and need some advice, I have the
> wing
> kit on order with the QB tanks (due in December), and in reading the
> drawings and instruction this past couple of days I noticed a tank mod is
> required for inverted flight that adds a flop tube in the standard vent
> line
> area and moves the sender outboard one station. I am assuming the QB tanks
> are in the standard configuration. Questions therefore are 1) can the tank
> be modified for this mod after it is complete (i.e. can you get access and
> keep inside clean) and 2) is this mod for sustained inverted flight and
> regular rolls, loops etc are OK with the standard tanks.
>
> Thanks for any input
>
> Dave RV7A
>
>
>
Message 8
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|
| Subject: | Re: >Re:Wing Jig |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
You will need to drive rivets in the rear spar from the bottom,just have
enough room to handle the gun under there.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 9
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|
| Subject: | Van's Horizontal Filtered Airbox |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Gray <n747jg@earthlink.net>
Listers,
I am using an IO-360 angle valve engine with Airflow Performance fuel
injection on an RV-8. It looks like the fiberglass snorkel intake that
Van sells will need to be completely redesigned due to the round
forward facing intake on the AFP system (vs. a nice flat plate at the
forward end of the throttle body on the Bendix system). Any experience
in attaching the snorkel securely to the round opening would be
appreciated.
My second question is, why does Van's fiberglass snorkel have to snake
its way from the forward part of the throttle body up to the filter
that mounts to the left baffle intake floor? Couldn't it be designed
to come straight out of the throttle body, through a filter, to an
intake designed into the cowl right in front of the throttle body
itself? I would guess that ram airflow is a good thing and a straight
duct directly to the throttle body intake might actually increase the
ram effect.
Any thoughts or experience with installation of the forward facing AFP
would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Jim Gray
n747jg@earthlink.net
Message 10
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer@charter.net>
I put one at 49" and the other at 60" (so I could see which way I liked it!)
So far think I like the 49" for working on the tank z brackets, reaming the
tank skin/rib rivet holes, etc. But then I have not started on the 60" high
wing yet except to match ream the skins. Anywhere in between will be just
fine I suspect.
Allen Fulmer
RV7 Wings
QB Fuse 12/04
N808AF reserved
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of David Fenstermacher
Subject: RV-List: Wing Jig
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Fenstermacher"
<dfenstermacher@earthlink.net>
No luck in the archives.
Building the wing jig.
What is the best height for the angle iron used to clamp the main spar?
There isn't a dimension on the drawing.
Want to try to get it comfortable; as I will be living with it for some
time.
I'm about 5'8" tall, if that matters at all.
Dave
Message 11
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|
| Subject: | Installing big radios and transponders |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi,
I've got a Narco 155 and an ICOM A200 that I plan to install
in my RV8 panel.
Does anyone have any photos of an installation of these
long devices in a panel, preferably an 8?
It seems like they will need more support than just bolting
them to the panel itself, but getting them lined up to a
frame attached to somewhere other than the panel seems kind
of tricky. Any and all advice appreciated!
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
The van's wheel pants are polyester. You can use epoxy resin on polyester.
Mike Robertson
>From: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Date: Sat, 30 Oct 2004 19:11:56 -0700 1.16
>MISSING_SUBJECT Missing Subject: header
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
>
>Folks,
>
>If I need to modify the wheel pants, do I need to use the same type of
>resin as they are made of? If so, can anyone tell me how to determine
>whether mine are epoxy or polyester? Thanks.
>
>Steve Zicree
>RV4 on its wheels!
>
>
Get ready for school! Find articles, homework help and more in the Back to
Message 13
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV7 QB tanks |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
> David,
>
> The standard fuel pickups are fine for most aerobatics but will not work
for
> sustained inverted flight. But are you really going to do this? If so,
are
> you going to have the required inverted oil system for your engine? If
not,
> I would just stay with the standard pickups. I put an inverted pickup in
my
> first RV and realize now that it was not necessary. You could probably
put
> the inverted pickups in your -7 QB but it will be a mess. The tanks will
> arrive with the inboard inspection plate just screwed on (without sealant)
> so you can certainly gain access to do this job, but it will still be
> difficult and probably not worth it, in my opinion. On the other hand, if
> inverted aerobatics is your thing, it is doable, so go for it!
>
> Pat Hatch
>
I agree with Pat's comment regarding installing a flop tube. Unless you are
going to do sustained inverted flight you don't need it and if you are -
then you are going to need a lot more done to the engine.
I installed a flop tube and the only thing it ever did for me was a major
(but not the only one) factor in a 12 mile engine out guide when the flop
tube came unscrewed from the rib bulkhead fitting after 160 hours of flight
time. Therefore the engine could not "suck" up the last 3 1/2 gallons of
fuel in that tank. Ditch the flop-tube.
Ed Anderson
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV7 QB tanks |
--> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
I built my tanks with the standard and then, after getting into acro,
changed my mind and decided to put the flop tube in. It was really no big
thing and I was able to complete the whole job in one session. Regarding the
need for it, it's only necessary for negative g stuff. Without it, your
engine will sputter during things like slow rolls, cuban 4's, etc. Of
course, you'll also need an injected engine and inverted oil system, but
those things could be added later.
Steve Zicree
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Figgins" <2004nospam@earthlink.net>
<rv7-list@matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV7 QB tanks
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Figgins" <2004nospam@earthlink.net>
>
> I think I may have run into a problem and need some advice, I have the
wing
> kit on order with the QB tanks (due in December), and in reading the
> drawings and instruction this past couple of days I noticed a tank mod is
> required for inverted flight that adds a flop tube in the standard vent
line
> area and moves the sender outboard one station. I am assuming the QB tanks
> are in the standard configuration. Questions therefore are 1) can the tank
> be modified for this mod after it is complete (i.e. can you get access and
> keep inside clean) and 2) is this mod for sustained inverted flight and
> regular rolls, loops etc are OK with the standard tanks.
>
> Thanks for any input
>
> Dave RV7A
>
>
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV7 QB tanks |
--> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
Ed,
Why did the flop tube come unscrewed?
Steve Zicree
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV7 QB tanks
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
>
>
> > David,
> >
> > The standard fuel pickups are fine for most aerobatics but will not work
> for
> > sustained inverted flight. But are you really going to do this? If so,
> are
> > you going to have the required inverted oil system for your engine? If
> not,
> > I would just stay with the standard pickups. I put an inverted pickup
in
> my
> > first RV and realize now that it was not necessary. You could probably
> put
> > the inverted pickups in your -7 QB but it will be a mess. The tanks
will
> > arrive with the inboard inspection plate just screwed on (without
sealant)
> > so you can certainly gain access to do this job, but it will still be
> > difficult and probably not worth it, in my opinion. On the other hand,
if
> > inverted aerobatics is your thing, it is doable, so go for it!
> >
> > Pat Hatch
> >
>
> I agree with Pat's comment regarding installing a flop tube. Unless you
are
> going to do sustained inverted flight you don't need it and if you are -
> then you are going to need a lot more done to the engine.
> I installed a flop tube and the only thing it ever did for me was a major
> (but not the only one) factor in a 12 mile engine out guide when the flop
> tube came unscrewed from the rib bulkhead fitting after 160 hours of
flight
> time. Therefore the engine could not "suck" up the last 3 1/2 gallons of
> fuel in that tank. Ditch the flop-tube.
>
> Ed Anderson
>
>
Message 16
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: richard dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Listers,
In order to not be limited by capacity, I purchased a large compressor
about midway in building my -6A. I found that the small one that I had
originally would not keep up with my die grinder and I expected that
when I painted that it would be inadequate. I am now finished with
painting and want to sell my large compressor and replace it with a
smaller one that will fill tires and occasionally run air tools.
The compressor for sale is:
Porter-Cable Jetstream
135psi
7 hp/ 60 gal.
12.1 scfm @ 40 psi
9.7 scfm @ 90 psi
240 vAC
Valve, trap and regulator included (not part of original equipment).
It is like new and has no problem keeping up with a die grinder or spray
gun.
Because it is large and relatively heavy, it would probably be expensive
to ship and only of interest to someone near enough to Orlando, FL with
a suitable vehicle to carry it away.
I will sell it for $ 300 if you can pick it up.
If you are interested please contact me off list. I could send you a
photo if you would like.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
Preparing -6A to move to the airport
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Dip stick oil seep help |
0.50 MIME_BOUND_NEXTPART Spam tool pattern in MIME boundary
--> RV-List message posted by: "LML Klingmuller" <l_klingmuller@earthlink.net>
For some unknown reason the seat of my dip stick tube (0-360 ) always seem to
leak after a while. Initially I just tighten the tube, but the oil did always
seep through. Then I put a some permatex around the thread, but again no luck
for a permanent seal.
Any ideas what I could use to make a leak free connection between the crankcase
and the plastic dip stick tube???
Lothar, Denver area, RV-6A, 450 hrs
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: Archangel Efis |
--> RV-List message posted by: "D Paul Deits" <pdeits@comcast.net>
Can you give me more details?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Arnold de Brie" <arnold@paperchip.com>
Subject: RV-List: Archangel Efis
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Arnold de Brie" <arnold@paperchip.com>
>
>
> Would anyone be interested in an Archangel Efis system complete with
> AHRS, EFDS, ADS and remote flux gate compass.
>
>
> It is sitting in my shop for quite a while here and the authorities here
> won't let me install it in an experimental .
>
>
> I fired the system up lately and it is still working fine.
>
>
> The only things that have to be added are sensors for the temps/fuelflow
>
>
> Contact me off-list
>
>
> Arnold de Brie
>
>
> The Netherlands
>
>
> RV8
>
>
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Van's Horizontal Filtered Airbox |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
> I am using an IO-360 angle valve engine with Airflow Performance
>fuel
>injection on an RV-8. It looks like the fiberglass snorkel intake that
>Van sells will need to be completely redesigned due to the round
>forward facing intake on the AFP system (vs. a nice flat plate at the
>forward end of the throttle body on the Bendix system). Any experience
>in attaching the snorkel securely to the round opening would be
>appreciated.
>
> My second question is, why does Van's fiberglass snorkel have to
>snake
>its way from the forward part of the throttle body up to the filter
>that mounts to the left baffle intake floor? Couldn't it be designed
>to come straight out of the throttle body, through a filter, to an
>intake designed into the cowl right in front of the throttle body
>itself? I would guess that ram airflow is a good thing and a straight
>duct directly to the throttle body intake might actually increase the
>ram effect.
>
> Any thoughts or experience with installation of the forward facing
>AFP
> would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Gray
> n747jg@earthlink.net
Might this be of any help?
http://www.f1-rocketboy.com/products.htm
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV7 QB tanks |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Steve,
I don't know for certain, but I suspect that I failed to proper torque
the fitting before I closed up the tank. I probably took the flop tube out
to put in the "sloshing" compound and then just screwed it back on finger
tight after the slosh dried. I undoubtedly intended to go back and torque
the fitting properly - but, clearly I did not. It was interesting that it
took 160 hour of flight for it to finally work off - but it did. Which left
3.5 gallons below the level of fitting unavailable.
I at first thought the flop tube had hung up on a fitting in the bay with
the inlet above the fuel level. So after my nerves calmed down I may
several flights and tried to shake it loose by rocking the wings, pitching,
etc., but to no avail So I bit the bullet and took the tank off. When I
took the access plate off I realized I had put in all the anti-fouling
fittings to prevent it from doing just that and the flop tube was laying
where it should in the bottom of the tank. Then I reached in to move it and
it came back in my hand I realized it had come unscrewed. I have now
screwed the flop tube back on and torqued it this time and so far (40 hours)
its remained in place.
Ed Anderson
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV7 QB tanks
> --> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
>
> Ed,
>
> Why did the flop tube come unscrewed?
>
> Steve Zicree
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV7 QB tanks
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
> >
> >
> > > David,
> > >
> > > The standard fuel pickups are fine for most aerobatics but will not
work
> > for
> > > sustained inverted flight. But are you really going to do this? If
so,
> > are
> > > you going to have the required inverted oil system for your engine?
If
> > not,
> > > I would just stay with the standard pickups. I put an inverted pickup
> in
> > my
> > > first RV and realize now that it was not necessary. You could
probably
> > put
> > > the inverted pickups in your -7 QB but it will be a mess. The tanks
> will
> > > arrive with the inboard inspection plate just screwed on (without
> sealant)
> > > so you can certainly gain access to do this job, but it will still be
> > > difficult and probably not worth it, in my opinion. On the other
hand,
> if
> > > inverted aerobatics is your thing, it is doable, so go for it!
> > >
> > > Pat Hatch
> > >
> >
> > I agree with Pat's comment regarding installing a flop tube. Unless you
> are
> > going to do sustained inverted flight you don't need it and if you are -
> > then you are going to need a lot more done to the engine.
> > I installed a flop tube and the only thing it ever did for me was a
major
> > (but not the only one) factor in a 12 mile engine out guide when the
flop
> > tube came unscrewed from the rib bulkhead fitting after 160 hours of
> flight
> > time. Therefore the engine could not "suck" up the last 3 1/2 gallons
of
> > fuel in that tank. Ditch the flop-tube.
> >
> > Ed Anderson
> >
> >
>
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Dip stick oil seep help |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "LML Klingmuller"
><l_klingmuller@earthlink.net>
>
>For some unknown reason the seat of my dip stick tube (0-360 ) always
>seem to leak after a while. Initially I just tighten the tube, but the oil
>did always seep through. Then I put a some permatex around the thread, but
>again no luck for a permanent seal.
>Any ideas what I could use to make a leak free connection between the
>crankcase and the plastic dip stick tube???
>
>Lothar, Denver area, RV-6A, 450 hrs
Proseal!
You might have a tiny crack in the tube from the repeated torquings. It's a
silly plastic thing and I know I could easily crack it if I went too far
with the wrench. Worth checking.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: Dip stick oil seep help |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Brian Denk wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "LML Klingmuller"
>><l_klingmuller@earthlink.net>
>>
>>For some unknown reason the seat of my dip stick tube (0-360 ) always
>>seem to leak after a while. Initially I just tighten the tube, but the oil
>>did always seep through. Then I put a some permatex around the thread, but
>>again no luck for a permanent seal.
>>Any ideas what I could use to make a leak free connection between the
>>crankcase and the plastic dip stick tube???
>>
>>Lothar, Denver area, RV-6A, 450 hrs
>>
>>
>
>
>Proseal!
>
>You might have a tiny crack in the tube from the repeated torquings. It's a
>silly plastic thing and I know I could easily crack it if I went too far
>with the wrench. Worth checking.
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
>RV10 '51
>
>
>
Mine also has a paper gasket, don't know if that is standard or not.
Jerry
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV7 QB tanks |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Glasser" <ku-tec@bigpond.net.au>
Dave
I have just been through this exact dilemma with Vans and their answer was
that you can complete all the required mods ie flop tube, flop tube guides,
trap door and tank senders with the tanks completed.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Figgins" <2004nospam@earthlink.net>
<rv7-list@matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV7 QB tanks
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Figgins" <2004nospam@earthlink.net>
>
> I think I may have run into a problem and need some advice, I have the
> wing
> kit on order with the QB tanks (due in December), and in reading the
> drawings and instruction this past couple of days I noticed a tank mod is
> required for inverted flight that adds a flop tube in the standard vent
> line
> area and moves the sender outboard one station. I am assuming the QB tanks
> are in the standard configuration. Questions therefore are 1) can the tank
> be modified for this mod after it is complete (i.e. can you get access and
> keep inside clean) and 2) is this mod for sustained inverted flight and
> regular rolls, loops etc are OK with the standard tanks.
>
> Thanks for any input
>
> Dave RV7A
>
>
>
Message 24
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|
0.00 FORGED_RCVD_HELO Received: contains a forged HELO
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim & Kathy McChesney <rvtach@highstream.net>
List-
I'm looking at my wings and debating between the Duckworks HID leading
edge landing light ($450 for one light from Van's) and the CreativAir
wingtip halogen landing light ($120 for a pair- one in each wingtip).
Any discussion of the advantages of one or the other would be helpful.
Also any factors favoring right wing vs left wing installation if I
choose a single light? I'm thinking that illuminating the driver's
side of the taxiway would be a good choice but I've seen several side by
side RVs with the light in the right wing.
Thanks in advance for any info.
Jim McChesney
7A-QB wings and fuse
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Rear Window / Top Skin Pucker |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Holland" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
On my tip-up rear window I'm getting a very noticeable pucker in the rear top
skin at the 10 and 2 o'clock between the holes with greatest curvature. I've
cut the canopy so there isn't much I can do to reposition things. I removed the
skin dimples and tried forcing the rear edge tight against the skin and tried
to realign holes, thinking that might allow the parts to shift enough, then
redimpled, no-luck.
I'm using washers rather than a backing strip and wondered if this could be part
of the problem since there isn't anything adding stiffness between screw holes?
If others have encountered this problem what solutions worked for you?
About the only solution I have left is to put a faring over the transition between
the rear window and aft top skin, not a job I really want to do!
Thanks
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: Dip stick oil seep help |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Lycoming calls out a paper gasket.
http://images.rvproject.com/images/2004/20040929_oil_filler_gasket.jpg
I had the same seepage until I finally got the gasket in there. It didn't
come with my engine, and I didn't realize it was supposed to be in there
until I looked at the Lyc parts catalog.
Spruce sells it for $1.36:
08-00305 LYC OIL DIPSTICK GASK 72059
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "LML Klingmuller" <l_klingmuller@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Dip stick oil seep help
> --> RV-List message posted by: "LML Klingmuller"
<l_klingmuller@earthlink.net>
>
> For some unknown reason the seat of my dip stick tube (0-360 ) always
seem to leak after a while. Initially I just tighten the tube, but the oil
did always seep through. Then I put a some permatex around the thread, but
again no luck for a permanent seal.
> Any ideas what I could use to make a leak free connection between the
crankcase and the plastic dip stick tube???
>
> Lothar, Denver area, RV-6A, 450 hrs
>
>
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Angle valve IO-360 oil sump part # needed |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Christen has standard and extended flavors of their plumbing. I believe the
normal A1A can be plumbed for the standard but the extended requires the
addition of a boss. The aluminum weld boss for the A1A is ~$40 and can be
welded by a lot of folks. The magnesium boss needed for the C sump was $200+
IIRC and needs a specialty welder - read that as more $$. Christen may have
their instructions on-line. I'd check out the Aviat (they own Christen) site
(www.aviat.com ???)
Greg Young
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie Kuss
> Sent: Sunday, October 31, 2004 8:05 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Angle valve IO-360 oil sump part # needed
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
>
> Greg,
> Does the A1A sump have the proper tapped ports for adding
> the Christian inverted oil system?
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Gregory Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
> >
> >Bad news. The "C" sump won't work on the taildragger either without
> >modifying the mount, at least on a parallel valve IO-360. It's also
> >magnesium and costs big $$$ to add a boss for inverted oil.
> I had one on my
> >-6 and modified the mount but won't do it again. I plan to
> change to the
> >"A1A" sump on the Phoenix. That makes it essentially an IO-360-M1B.
> >
> >Regards,
> >Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
> >RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix
> >Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
Message 28
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| From: | "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com> |
0.00 FORGED_RCVD_HELO Received: contains a forged HELO
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
Hi all,
It's time for me to order the fuse kit for my 8 and I want to enlist the lists
help in making some decisions.
Should I get the ground adjustable rudders? How easy is it to get down there and
adjust them when needed?
Electric or manual aileron trim? Does either come with some type of indicator
for trim position?
Anything else I should think of now?
I'm leaning towards the Altrak and Trio AP, I suppose I should at least get the
servos now, but I'd like to hold off on the electronics as much as possible
since there is always an upgrade coming. Do these servos work with all autopilots
in case I change my mind as to which autopilot I want later?
Thanks
Greg
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Rear Window / Top Skin Pucker |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Holland" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
Subject: RV-List: Rear Window / Top Skin Pucker
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Holland" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
>
> On my tip-up rear window I'm getting a very noticeable pucker in the rear
top skin at the 10 and 2 o'clock between the holes with greatest curvature.
I've cut the canopy so there isn't much I can do to reposition things. I
removed the skin dimples and tried forcing the rear edge tight against the
skin and tried to realign holes, thinking that might allow the parts to
shift enough, then redimpled, no-luck.
>
> I'm using washers rather than a backing strip and wondered if this could
be part of the problem since there isn't anything adding stiffness between
screw holes?
>
> If others have encountered this problem what solutions worked for you?
>
> About the only solution I have left is to put a faring over the transition
between the rear window and aft top skin, not a job I really want to do!
>
> Thanks
Well, Mike, I had small puckers - but a worst problem (in my opinion) in
that when I cut the canopy into two pieces it was - lets just say - less
than perfect. Some places the two pieces would meet with a nice straight
gap of maybe 1/16 - 3/32" and other places looked like the grand canyon.
You really only noticed it when the canopy was shut and you could compare
the two pieces - but I really couldn't stand to look at it.
I cut a 3" wide strip of 0.032 2024 T3 (after getting the right curve with
poster paper). I smoothed the edges of the metal strip so it wouldn't
scratch or cut and I placed the 3" strip over canopy (front of course) and
pop riveted it over the plex. Approx 2" of the strip is over the front and
the other 1" or so overlaps the rear canopy. It gave me a nice line, hid
the messy mismatch of Plexiglas and has worked fine for over 7 years of
flying my RV-6A. I found out it also kept the rain out as well. It also
provides a convention place to gently lift the canopy from the center once
its unlocked.
FWIW
Ed Anderson
eanderson@carolina.rr.com
Message 30
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| Subject: | Van's Horizontal Filtered Airbox |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Jim,
If you want the smooth cowl through use of the snorkel you can cut off the
flange and mold a new attachment directly to the AFP intake. I used the -8
snorkel on my -6 and had to rebuild the lower half but you should need to do
nearly as much. I stuffed florist foam into the AFP intake and remaining
snorkel, shaved it down to the contour I wanted, covered and smoothed it
with clay, applied mold release and laid up fiberglass over the clay and the
AFP inlet. When done I had a nice snug fit round end on the snorkel. I'll
send you a couple pics offline. The snorkel gives the smooth appearance, has
a filter and means for alternate air but probably doesn't offer the ram
effect of the Rocket-type scoop. Your choice but the mod to the snorkel is
not hard.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Gray <n747jg@earthlink.net>
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I am using an IO-360 angle valve engine with Airflow
> Performance fuel injection on an RV-8. It looks like the
> fiberglass snorkel intake that Van sells will need to be
> completely redesigned due to the round forward facing intake
> on the AFP system (vs. a nice flat plate at the forward end
> of the throttle body on the Bendix system). Any experience
> in attaching the snorkel securely to the round opening would
> be appreciated.
>
> My second question is, why does Van's fiberglass
> snorkel have to snake its way from the forward part of the
> throttle body up to the filter that mounts to the left baffle
> intake floor? Couldn't it be designed to come straight out
> of the throttle body, through a filter, to an intake designed
> into the cowl right in front of the throttle body itself? I
> would guess that ram airflow is a good thing and a straight
> duct directly to the throttle body intake might actually
> increase the ram effect.
>
> Any thoughts or experience with installation of the
> forward facing AFP
> would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Gray
> n747jg@earthlink.net
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Landing lights |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
> I'm looking at my wings and debating between the Duckworks HID leading
> edge landing light ($450 for one light from Van's) and the CreativAir
> wingtip halogen landing light ($120 for a pair- one in each wingtip).
> Any discussion of the advantages of one or the other would be helpful.
> Also any factors favoring right wing vs left wing installation if I
> choose a single light? I'm thinking that illuminating the driver's
> side of the taxiway would be a good choice but I've seen several side by
> side RVs with the light in the right wing.
As you're making this this decision you might want to consider whether you
want a wig-wag circuit or not. If you do than you can't use HID. Personally,
I think a wig-wag system in an RV is a GOOD idea, they are small fast
aircraft that are often difficult for other aircraft to see. A wig-wag
option on your light(s) really adds to your visibility day or night, but
really helps more during the day.
Randy Lervold
RV-3, RV-3B
Message 32
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--> RV-List message posted by: "David Figgins" <2004nospam@earthlink.net>
Thanks for all the responses, seems this will not be a big deal
Dave
David Figgins
Tel: (801) 572-5092
Cell: (801) 201-0558
email: dbfigginsweb@earthlink.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne Glasser
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV7 QB tanks
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Glasser" <ku-tec@bigpond.net.au>
Dave
I have just been through this exact dilemma with Vans and their answer was
that you can complete all the required mods ie flop tube, flop tube guides,
trap door and tank senders with the tanks completed.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Figgins" <2004nospam@earthlink.net>
<rv7-list@matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV7 QB tanks
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Figgins"
> --> <2004nospam@earthlink.net>
>
> I think I may have run into a problem and need some advice, I have the
> wing kit on order with the QB tanks (due in December), and in reading
> the drawings and instruction this past couple of days I noticed a tank
> mod is required for inverted flight that adds a flop tube in the
> standard vent line area and moves the sender outboard one station. I
> am assuming the QB tanks are in the standard configuration. Questions
> therefore are 1) can the tank be modified for this mod after it is
> complete (i.e. can you get access and keep inside clean) and 2) is
> this mod for sustained inverted flight and regular rolls, loops etc
> are OK with the standard tanks.
>
> Thanks for any input
>
> Dave RV7A
>
>
>
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 33
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| Subject: | OT (well not really)...quote pertinent to QB vs. standard kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: Andrew Douglas <adouglas@optonline.net>
I just ran across this on Refdesk.com (cool site):
"The world is divided into two kinds of people, those who spend a great
deal of time saving money, and those who spend a great deal of money saving
time." - Peter Cochrane
Kind of says it all, doesn't it?
;-)
Do not archive
-----------------------------------------------------
Andrew Douglas
Message 34
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| Subject: | Free Starter.... Seattle area |
--> RV-List message posted by: John Ammeter <jammeter@comcast.net>
I'm cleaning out my garage and came across this Prestolite
12 volt starter. It's part #MZ4204 with the number 32000C83
just below the part number.
It came off a Lycoming O-320 model E2A 150 HP engine. Was
working when removed.
If you want it, you can have it.... gotta pick it up in
North Seattle or Port Hadlock area.
email me for directions. Or, find my number in the
'book'...
jammeter@comcast.net
Also, I have for sale... won't give it away since it cost
too damn much.. One airplane jack suitable for lifting the
RV wing so you can change the tire. It's about 20" high
with tripod bracing. Asking $75 for it. Same deal... pick
up in or near Seattle.
John Ammeter
Former owner/builder of RV-6 N16JA
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | OT (well not really)...quote pertinent to QB vs. standard |
kit
--> RV-List message posted by: Kathleen@rv7.us
I'm disappointed. It seems to leave out those of us who spend a whole lot
of money wasting time. :-)
Do not archive.
Kathleen Evans
www.rv7.us
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Douglas
Subject: RV-List: OT (well not really)...quote pertinent to QB vs. standard
kit
--> RV-List message posted by: Andrew Douglas <adouglas@optonline.net>
I just ran across this on Refdesk.com (cool site):
"The world is divided into two kinds of people, those who spend a great
deal of time saving money, and those who spend a great deal of money saving
time." - Peter Cochrane
Kind of says it all, doesn't it?
;-)
Do not archive
-----------------------------------------------------
Andrew Douglas
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Van's Horizontal Filtered Airbox |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
I think the design is optimized to efficiently use the vacuum situation in the
front baffle location and smoothly flow air through the snorkel into the fuel
metering system. In fact today at a fly in I asked a RV8 pilot who after flying
the normal Van's io-360 set up for a while bought a different aftermarket cowl
which placed the air intake in the center under the spinner. For all his
work he said he didn't get any noticeable gains.
lucky
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Gray <n747jg@earthlink.net>
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I am using an IO-360 angle valve engine with Airflow Performance fuel
> injection on an RV-8. It looks like the fiberglass snorkel intake that
> Van sells will need to be completely redesigned due to the round
> forward facing intake on the AFP system (vs. a nice flat plate at the
> forward end of the throttle body on the Bendix system). Any experience
> in attaching the snorkel securely to the round opening would be
> appreciated.
>
> My second question is, why does Van's fiberglass snorkel have to snake
> its way from the forward part of the throttle body up to the filter
> that mounts to the left baffle intake floor? Couldn't it be designed
> to come straight out of the throttle body, through a filter, to an
> intake designed into the cowl right in front of the throttle body
> itself? I would guess that ram airflow is a good thing and a straight
> duct directly to the throttle body intake might actually increase the
> ram effect.
>
> Any thoughts or experience with installation of the forward facing AFP
> would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Gray
> n747jg@earthlink.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: OT (well not really)...quote pertinent to QB vs. standard |
kit
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net>
Kathleen@rv7.us wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Kathleen@rv7.us
>
>I'm disappointed. It seems to leave out those of us who spend a whole lot
>of money wasting time. :-)
>
>
Don't forget about those of us who make money by saving other people time.
Chris W
Not getting the gifts you want? The Wish Zone can help.
http://thewishzone.com
do not archive
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: OT (well not really)...quote pertinent to QB vs. standard |
kit
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
Lest we forget all those who spend all their time (& our money,) finding
ways not to work but still get paid. Welfare & Politicians... KABONG Do
not archive
>>
>>I'm disappointed. It seems to leave out those of us who spend a whole lot
>>of money wasting time. :-)
>>
> Don't forget about those of us who make money by saving other people time.
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Archangel Efis |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Arnold de Brie wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Arnold de Brie" <arnold@paperchip.com>
>
>
>Would anyone be interested in an Archangel Efis system complete with
>AHRS, EFDS, ADS and remote flux gate compass.
>
>
>It is sitting in my shop for quite a while here and the authorities here
>won't let me install it in an experimental .
>
Now that really got my attention!!! What, pray tell, were the
reasons??? Are the Netherlands so terribly restrictive or did you just
get a dimwit on a bad day??? I've got my blood to boiling over some
numbskulls in the FAA that I've had to deal with, but unless you're on
prozac or something ..... that must have put you in orbit. I just don't
understand. Maybe you can explain the reasoning???
Linn
PS, don't know anything about the system, or what it's worth ..... how
much are you asking???
do not archive my ranting ..... soapbox now available
>I fired the system up lately and it is still working fine.
>
>
>The only things that have to be added are sensors for the temps/fuelflow
>
>
>Contact me off-list
>
>
>Arnold de Brie
>
>
>The Netherlands
>
>
>RV8
>
>
>
>
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: fuse order time |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Greg@itmack wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
<snip>
I'm leaning towards the Altrak and Trio
> AP, I suppose I should at least get the servos now, but I'd like to
> hold off on the electronics as much as possible since there is always
> an upgrade coming. Do these servos work with all autopilots in case
> I change my mind as to which autopilot I want later?
Navaid servo works with Navaid, EZ-Pilot, and DigiTrak.
AlTrak and native version of DigiTrak and all DigiFlight systems require
TruTrak servos.
Don't worry about servo installations now, Just make sure you install
conduit to the proposed servo locations and you can readily run wiring
and mount servos when you settle on a particular system.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, EZ-Pilot, AlTrak)
http://thervjournal.com
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: Dip stick oil seep help |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
LML Klingmuller wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "LML Klingmuller" <l_klingmuller@earthlink.net>
>
>For some unknown reason the seat of my dip stick tube (0-360 ) always seem to
leak after a while. Initially I just tighten the tube, but the oil did always
seep through. Then I put a some permatex around the thread, but again no luck
for a permanent seal.
>Any ideas what I could use to make a leak free connection between the crankcase
and the plastic dip stick tube???
>
>Lothar, Denver area, RV-6A, 450 hrs
>
What about an o-ring?
Linn
do not archive
>
>
>
>
Message 42
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|
Received": contains.a.forged.HELO@matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: firewall recess in a QB 0.00 FORGED_RCVD_HELO |
Received: contains a forged HELO
--> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
Jim:
That worked out well. That Stainless eats up the cutting disks pretty
fast, but it was controllable. I cut the firewall about 1/16" or 1/32"
away from the aluminum angle backing it up on the cabin side and then
trimmed the last bit of the edge with a chassis nibbler. I got the edge
nice and flush with the aluminum angle.
Jim Jewell wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
>
> Hi Tom,
>
> If you have or can beg, borrow or buy a Dremel tool (hobby sized hi speed
> grinder) with a package of their "cut off wheel no. 409" you should get the
> job done quite well.
> Drill 3/32 holes at each corners from the cockpit side. Then use the holes
> on the outside to tape off the cut lines. Use the Dremel to cut the hole and
> finish the edges with a fine grit Dremel sanding drum or hand fie file as
> needed.
>>I am about to install the firewall recess in my 6A. Since this is a QB,
>>the firewall area is already fully assembled. Does any one have any
>>suggestions about how to cut the firewall sheet cleanly after it is
>>rivetted to the airplane?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A
Message 43
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| Subject: | RV-6A Main Gear Leg Fairings. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
Anybody have advice on how to make this process faster and less painful? The prints
and manual talk about the importance of getting the leg fairings lined up
so they are parallell to the airstream and not acting like rudders on the front
of the airplane. I looked at what Van's shows on the blueprints on how to
do this and in theory it should work but it's a tedious time consuming process
and I'm not sure that the results would actually be all that accurate. Since
I've spent the last half dozen weekends and a few weeknights doing wheel pants
and getting THEM aligned into the airflow and set at the correct height, etc.
etc. ........ I'm kinda burned out with this and am hoping some has a quicker
easier method for doing this. Just seems like a hell of a lot of effort for
something seemingly trivial. Any suggestions? Also, what is everyone's experience
in the field? Those that didn't do that great a job aligning these things
have rudder trim different with fairings on than with them off? Van's manual
spend several sentences talking about the importance of getting this accurate
but I'm having a difficult time figuring out how to do this accurately, like
the wheel pants, the gear legs and fairings are curved shapes that are hard
to make reference points on. What's the scoop from you folks with experience?
Thanks for the help.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Wondering if it'll ever get done!
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