Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:28 AM - Re: Continuation on High CHT problem ()
2. 06:17 AM - Re: Continuation on High CHT problem (glen matejcek)
3. 07:13 AM - Re: Tapping flap pushrod (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
4. 08:31 AM - Re: Oil Return HosesOil Return Hoses (Herron, Al)
5. 09:14 AM - Pitot cover for Dynon Pitot Tube ? (Gerry Filby)
6. 09:37 AM - Re: Pitot cover for Dynon Pitot Tube ? (Larry Bowen)
7. 11:10 AM - Re: Pitot cover for Dynon Pitot Tube ? (smittysrv)
8. 11:14 AM - Lubricaton for Rod End Bearings (Ernie & Margo)
9. 11:57 AM - Lubricaton for Rod End Bearings (James H Nelson)
10. 12:02 PM - Re: Re: Pitot cover for Dynon Pitot Tube ? (Gerry Filby)
11. 12:41 PM - Re: Re: Pitot cover for Dynon Pitot Tube ? (RV6 Flyer)
12. 12:43 PM - Re: Lubricaton for Rod End Bearings (David Burton)
13. 02:08 PM - Re: EGT on vetterman exhaust (sarg314)
14. 02:46 PM - Re: Re: What's Up with Aircraft Spruce? (bertrv6@highstream.net)
15. 02:59 PM - Support AOPA (bertrv6@highstream.net)
16. 03:04 PM - Home simulator, which (bertrv6@highstream.net)
17. 04:12 PM - About time to sell my RV-4 (CBRxxDRV@aol.com)
18. 04:33 PM - Re: Support AOPA (David Maib)
19. 04:35 PM - Re: Lubricaton for Rod End Bearings (scott bilinski)
20. 06:00 PM - Re: Re: Pitot cover for Dynon Pitot Tube ? (Vanremog@aol.com)
21. 06:43 PM - Re: Lubricaton for Rod End Bearings (Kelly McMullen)
22. 07:11 PM - Re: Home simulator, which (Patrick Kelley)
23. 07:23 PM - Re: Re: Continuation on High CHT problem (dick martin)
24. 07:49 PM - Re: Lubricaton for Rod End Bearings (Ed Holyoke)
25. 07:54 PM - Re: Home simulator, which (Dave Nellis)
Message 1
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| Subject: | RE: Continuation on High CHT problem |
That is correct. A little gap on # 3 and also # 1 has a great
effect. It is not magic. It is the fact the part of the cylinder
that is up against the baffle has very shallow fins. The cylinders
are NOT symetric but are all identical. The side fins are deeper
on the exhaust valve side. The intake side the fins are shallow.
So the #3 cylinder has it's shallow fins against the baffle. If
the baffle starts high and is too tight you get no air flow down
and under the cylinder. The air gets choked off on the shallow
side and keeps it from getting to the lower part of the cylinder
where the fins get deeper again. It has a significant effect.
Mr. Dick Martin
and gang there are many reasons that some engine
run hot. Dick you have a totally different set up with a
plenum don't you? I know the lower baffles are the same
or similar but people do have cooling problems. Each
RV is different. It can be a combo of things and may
be you happen to gave good baffle gaps. Also the IO360
and IO390 angle valves are oil cooled engines, more
than parallel valve engines which don't have oil squirters
on the piston and head.
>From: "Bob J." <rocketbob@gmail.com>
>Subject: RE: Continuation on High CHT problem
>It is correct, I know of at least a half dozen RV's or Rockets
>belonging to friends that have spaced the baffle away from the
>#3 cylinders with washers (#5 on the 540).
__________________________________________________
Message 2
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| Subject: | RE: Continuation on High CHT problem |
Howdy D & D-
Interesting observations. As I'm tinkering with cooling considerations and
details, I'd love to run this to ground. A lot of info has been posted
piecemeal, and I'd like to bring it all together in one place and clarify
some stuff for posterity as well as my own edification. As I understand it:
First, I absolutely agree that leaky baffles are very significant and the
elimination of leaks is of prime importance.
Looking closely at my 200 hp angle valve IO-360, the casting part line on
the fwd side of #2 cyl and the aft side of #3 cyl in the region from the
inbd edge of the intake port to the outbd end of the head is tangent to /
flush with the edge of the cooling fins. From the inbd edge of the port to
the base of the head, the min depth of the fins is about 1/8 inch.
Therefore, baffles that were truly tight in this region would cause zero
airflow around the back side of the #3 head and the lower front quadrant of
#2 at their extremities, and little airflow through the next region inbd.
My baffle kit from Van's fits such that there is a gap on the order of 1/8
inch between #3 cyl and the rear baffle. The way my particular baffle
parts came, this gap is not really adjustable and isn't a product of
installation error.
There is about 3/32 gap between the heads in the inter cylinder area.
I have no idea if Van's baffle kits have changed over time, and if perhaps
some folks with the angle valve engines have older baffle kits that might
not have the clearance gap built in.
When convenient, could either / both of you guys verify that there is in
fact no gap between your rear baffles and #3 at the casting part line? I'm
not throwing rocks, casting aspersions, or anything else negative, but I am
truly intrigued by your comments in light of other's experiences as well as
the config of my baffle kit.
TIA-
glen matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
> Glen,
> I also do not think that this is correct.
> I have 1400 hrs on my RV8. No gap, no cooling problem
> I have always been taught that loose and poorly fit baffles were the
> primary cause of cooling problems.
> I don't think this is correct, Glen.
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A 200 HP Angle Valve IO-360, No gap and no cooling problem.
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | RE: Tapping flap pushrod |
Just go to NAPA store and get "Rapid Tap - for Aluminum" and your threads
will come out very well ; mine did , several times.
Bob Olds
RV-4
Charleston,Arkansas
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Return HosesOil Return Hoses |
Just a caution about RTV silicone: never get it anywhere near your fuel
system! I can tell you from personal experience that if it gets into
your fuel it will swell up by a factor of about 6 and can potentially
cause a blockage. This is for the clear RTV silicone; there may be
variations of the product that are OK with fuel but be sure before you
use it. I had to have a fuel tank on a Cessna removed & flushed because
of a mechanic that used RTV as sealant on an access plate. The #8
attach screws pushed a little slug of RTV into the fuel tank, and each
one swelled up into a blob of goo about the size of your thumb.
AL Herron
RV-7A
Ready to install paint!
Message 5
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| Subject: | Pitot cover for Dynon Pitot Tube ? |
I'm using a latex glove to keep the bugs and what have you out
of my Dynon pitot - its just not becoming, looks vaguely like a
medical mistake.
Has anyone figured out which of the various covers available
(Cessna, Dornier, Beechcraft ...) fit over the Dynon pitot ?
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
----------------------------------------------------------
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot cover for Dynon Pitot Tube ? |
I've seen some use a bright colored tennis ball to cover the pitot....
--
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Gerry Filby wrote:
>
>
> I'm using a latex glove to keep the bugs and what have you out
> of my Dynon pitot - its just not becoming, looks vaguely like a
> medical mistake.
>
> Has anyone figured out which of the various covers available
> (Cessna, Dornier, Beechcraft ...) fit over the Dynon pitot ?
>
> __g__
>
> =========================================================
> Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot cover for Dynon Pitot Tube ? |
I saw a cessna at a fly-in a few weeks back where the pilot stuck a small teddy
bear on the "end" of the pitot tube. OUCH! It caught quite a few stares and
comments. [Shocked]
--------
Smittys RV-9A
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=83054#83054
Message 8
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| Subject: | Lubricaton for Rod End Bearings |
I am getting ready to lubricate my rod ends for the first time - push
rods, control sticks, etc. I'm researching for a good lube product to
use. I've heard that an LPS-3 Heavy Duty Inhibiter is supposed to be
very good. I can't find anything about it - qualities or sources.
I think a suitable lube should be a gummy spray that is non-runny,
non-corrosive, non-abrasive, non-dripping, etc. A tall order for a
critical, well-hidden use - don't really get to inspect these areas
very often.
What have others been using with good lube qualities and are there any
downsides ? ? Thanks for any help. Ernie - RV-9A.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Lubricaton for Rod End Bearings |
Hi Ernie,
A good teflon based grease will work fine. If its to sticky,
dirt stays attached and wear goes up. Is the Rod end a teflon version or
a bronze version. The cheepest is the steel on steel. If you have any
heartburn, change the rod ends out for the bronze or teflon bearing
version.
Jim
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot cover for Dynon Pitot Tube ? |
LOL!!!
Now you've got me thinking - there could be quite a few
variations on that theme that might serve the purpose ...
there has to be a business opportunity there - effigies of one's
least favorite politicians etc., etc., ...
g
do not archive
>
>
> I saw a cessna at a fly-in a few weeks back where the pilot
> stuck a small teddy bear on the "end" of the pitot tube. OUCH!
> It caught quite a few stares and comments. [Shocked]
>
> --------
> Smittys RV-9A
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=83054#83054
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
----------------------------------------------------------
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot cover for Dynon Pitot Tube ? |
There is a C-195 near me that for the past 15 or so years has used a stuffed
DUCK on the pitot tube for a cover. Looks like the duck was flying and got
it from behind.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,973 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
----Original Message Follows----
From: "smittysrv" <smitty@smittysrv.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Pitot cover for Dynon Pitot Tube ?
I saw a cessna at a fly-in a few weeks back where the pilot stuck a small
teddy bear on the "end" of the pitot tube. OUCH! It caught quite a few
stares and comments. [Shocked]
--------
Smittys RV-9A
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=83054#83054
_________________________________________________________________
Experience the magic of the holidays. Talk to Santa on Messenger.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Lubricaton for Rod End Bearings |
LPS-3 is a lube that has good corrosion protection. It does get pretty
gummy over time. It used to be one of my favorites, but I've pretty much
switched over to Super Lube:
http://www.super-lube.com/
The name kind of makes me think "cheap product". I have a lot of experience
with lubricants though and this one is a winner. I use both the grease and
oil for different applications. I buy other specialty greases that cost
$100 for a couple of ounces. This product is very inexpensive. I buy it
from Micro-Tools, but I'm pretty sure that McMaster-Carr has it too. I deal
with a major instrument manufacturer who used to specify and sell hundreds
of different lubes for their products. Five years ago they said, forget all
the different lubricants we used to specify, just use Super Lube. I think
the spray can is only useful for really hosing down something. I use it, but
the pressure is so high in the can that applying a little is impossible, at
least for me. I like the pen style applicators they sell with oil better
for dispensing just a little bit.
I'm interested in hearing what others think.
Dave
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ernie & Margo
Sent: Friday, December 22, 2006 11:13 AM
Subject: RV-List: Lubricaton for Rod End Bearings
I am getting ready to lubricate my rod ends for the first time - push rods,
control sticks, etc. I'm researching for a good lube product to use. I've
heard that an LPS-3 Heavy Duty Inhibiter is supposed to be very good. I
can't find anything about it - qualities or sources.
I think a suitable lube should be a gummy spray that is non-runny,
non-corrosive, non-abrasive, non-dripping, etc. A tall order for a
critical, well-hidden use - don't really get to inspect these areas very
often.
What have others been using with good lube qualities and are there any
downsides ? ? Thanks for any help. Ernie - RV-9A.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: EGT on vetterman exhaust |
I finally talked with Larry Vetterman about EGT probes. I think Larry's
the best expert we have on RV exhausts. He continues to do careful
experimentation with exhausts and speaks from experience.
Larry's advice is to place the EGT probes no more than 2.5" down from
the flange of the exhaust port of the cylinder. 1.5" to 2.0" is OK. He
has experimented with different positions. You will get more consistent
temperature readings this way, says Larry. Yes, the EGT probe won't
last as long as one mounted further down. It still lasts pretty long,
though. Larry's RV-4 has 1000hrs on its probes and they're still OK.
This fits with Dale Walter's note that his are 2" down and have 736 hrs
on them and work well. So, that is what I am going to do.
Note that the 2.5" is measured from the face of the cylinder, so it
includes the thickness of the gasket and the flange welded onto the end
of the pipe. It's really up there close to the cylinder.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: What's Up with Aircraft Spruce? |
Quoting Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>:
>
> Actually, having ordered from Spruce dozens upon dozens of times, I find it
> pleasantly convenient to have my customer information on file so I do not
> have to go through the tedious procedure of entering the same information
> every time I place an order. Chief is okay and I order from them on occasion
> but they are far from perfect. On more than one occasion, a foul up in
> shipping has occurred generating infuriating delays when they don't have a
> particular item in stock and Chief has to first order it from THEIR vendor.
> Doesn't happen a lot but it has happened to me twice now in less than 10
> total ordering experiences with Chief. I'll continue to use Chief for the
> occasional purchase but still prefer Spruce's speed and efficiency hands
> down. As always.....YMMV.
>
> Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
> RV-8 Wing
>
>
> I agreed, Chief is Ok, but it takes a long time. Also I had a very
bad experience, the never refunded my money completely, when they should
have
I find wicks the fastest, but they do not have everything you need, and
they are in some instances, a little higher..
anyou how HAPPY HAPPY TO ALL....
BERT
RVY6A
DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
> > I have not ordered for a while from ACS but when I tried to order online I
> find they now require a password and a user ID just to order
> something!......I went to Chief and will do so in the future...
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=81238#81238
>
>
Message 15
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Hi:
Is that time of year.. November we support our good Matt Dralle" for
the great service of the rv list...
IN December, my wife and I support AOPA, the Safety foundation, is one.
We just send a few bucks..They do a great job for General Aviation,
which includes all of us..
I do hope that the FAA will not become privatized, as they are planning
to do. I believe the Controllers is the question yes?
We know what that means to us.,,, Astronomical fees....one more nail
on the coffen for general aviation.. I hope that AOPA can succeed in
putting stop to this nonsense..
My wife and I continue to write to our official representatives, local
and State..on these important issues..
So, I hope you feel the same way, and contribute, even $5.00 is help...
Write to Washingto and to your state officials, great numbers, means power..
HAPPY, HAPPY HOLIDAYS TO ALL,
FLY CAREULLY OUT THERE..
BERT
RV6A
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 16
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| Subject: | Home simulator, which |
Hello:
Now that winter is here, even in Florida, there are days not the best
to fly...
Sooo" I was thinking it would be a good idea to have an inexpensive
simulator, I can use at home, and practice whatever, it can be done..
The questions is what is the acceptable one, at a reasonable price...
and what I need to have in the P.C. I HAVE WINDOWS XP, I am not sure
what else as to programs.
If some one now has one, and it is using it, would like to heard comments
and details..
Thanks
Bert
rv6a
Do not archive..
Message 17
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| Subject: | About time to sell my RV-4 |
N-898SC is about to go to the airport for final assembly which means
my RV-4 N42917 is about to be sold. I figure I will hang a 4-Sale sign
in it @ the LAL RV Fly-in. And then the real push @Sun-N-Fun.
Anybody want a first shot?
91 RV-4
I need to look up all the times. It flys about every weekend and
is just a good OLE RV. Not bad to look at and flys really good.
It has some cosmetic issues that are not a big deal and
is mechanically solid.
About 500TT
Less than 800 SMOH by Carter
New CS prop from vans right before I bought it
limited panel...loran, com, intercom, Transponder/c (All works A-OK)
May even include a garmin 90 :)
$35000......firm cause after the RV-8 is done I may start
doing cosmetic stuff and we know what it is worth then.
see it @
http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/RV4.html
offlist @ cbrxxdrv@aol.com
Sal Capra
Lakeland FL
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Support AOPA |
I agree with Bert on this. I would also suggest going to the National
Business Aviation Association website where they have a really easy
way to send letters to your legislators on this issue. http://
web.nbaa.org/public/govt/action/ You may customize the letters as
much as you like. The AOPA and NBAA are working together to get this
legislation defeated. Ultimately, a user fee plan could lead to the
Air Traffic Control System being controlled by the airlines. That
would not be good for any of us.
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
tailcone
On Dec 22, 2006, at 4:57 PM, bertrv6@highstream.net wrote:
Hi:
Is that time of year.. November we support our good Matt Dralle" for
the great service of the rv list...
IN December, my wife and I support AOPA, the Safety foundation, is
one.
We just send a few bucks..They do a great job for General Aviation,
which includes all of us..
I do hope that the FAA will not become privatized, as they are
planning
to do. I believe the Controllers is the question yes?
We know what that means to us.,,, Astronomical fees....one more nail
on the coffen for general aviation.. I hope that AOPA can succeed in
putting stop to this nonsense..
My wife and I continue to write to our official representatives, local
and State..on these important issues..
So, I hope you feel the same way, and contribute, even $5.00 is help...
Write to Washingto and to your state officials, great numbers, means
power..
HAPPY, HAPPY HOLIDAYS TO ALL,
FLY CAREULLY OUT THERE..
BERT
RV6A
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Lubricaton for Rod End Bearings |
I just sprayed all rod ends with silicone lube......I am amazed at how silk
y smooth the controls are now, not that they were bad before but a VERY not
iceable change for the better!=0A =0AScott Bilinski=0ARV-8a=0A=0A_________
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot cover for Dynon Pitot Tube ? |
In a message dated 12/22/2006 12:04:50 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
gerf@gerf.com writes:
Now you've got me thinking - there could be quite a few
variations on that theme that might serve the purpose ...
there has to be a business opportunity there - effigies of one's
least favorite politicians etc., etc., ...
================================
I want to get the stuffed dubya pitot cover franchise. ;o)
Do not archive.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 822hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Lubricaton for Rod End Bearings |
Mooneys have far more rod ends than an RV, because all controls are via
torque tubes. Mooney specifies Triflo for lubricating the rod ends,
every 100 hours and/or at annual.
scott bilinski wrote:
> I just sprayed all rod ends with silicone lube......I am amazed at how
> silky smooth the controls are now, not that they were bad before but a
> VERY noticeable change for the better!
>
> Scott Bilinski
> RV-8a
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Home simulator, which |
I'm using MS Flight Simulator 2004, CH USB yoke and pedals, and Flight
Factory Simulations RV-7/7A (under $10). It's ok for practicing procedures
with. I also enjoy FS X, flying the Mooney Bravo as a sort of RV
substitute. FFS's RV model works with FS X but requires their application
to unlock the gauges on the control panel. Their application is pretty cool
in any case, it includes maintenance, realistic failures, even the aircraft
getting gradually dirty. They just sent me an email today responding to my
query and say they intend to come out with an update that works with FS X,
even though they have not given a timeframe. My guess is that it will be
soon, as additional models from other publishers are already being released.
Pat Kelley - RV-6A - Bolting the wings in place
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
bertrv6@highstream.net
Sent: Friday, December 22, 2006 4:03 PM
Subject: RV-List: Home simulator, which
Hello:
Now that winter is here, even in Florida, there are days not the best
to fly...
Sooo" I was thinking it would be a good idea to have an inexpensive
simulator, I can use at home, and practice whatever, it can be done..
The questions is what is the acceptable one, at a reasonable price...
and what I need to have in the P.C. I HAVE WINDOWS XP, I am not sure
what else as to programs.
If some one now has one, and it is using it, would like to heard comments
and details..
Thanks
Bert
rv6a
Do not archive..
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Continuation on High CHT problem |
Glen,
All baffles are tight. Some other thoughts!
The IO 360 is a partially oil cooled engine. What size is your oil cooler?
What Brand? How is it installed ? Are your oil temps cool or hot ( ideal
is 190 - 210 degrees f )
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
IO-390 (first engine was IO-360 10/1 operated 900 hr
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Sent: Friday, December 22, 2006 8:16 AM
Subject: RV-List: RE: Continuation on High CHT problem
>
> Howdy D & D-
>
> Interesting observations. As I'm tinkering with cooling considerations
> and
> details, I'd love to run this to ground. A lot of info has been posted
> piecemeal, and I'd like to bring it all together in one place and clarify
> some stuff for posterity as well as my own edification. As I understand
> it:
>
> First, I absolutely agree that leaky baffles are very significant and the
> elimination of leaks is of prime importance.
>
> Looking closely at my 200 hp angle valve IO-360, the casting part line on
> the fwd side of #2 cyl and the aft side of #3 cyl in the region from the
> inbd edge of the intake port to the outbd end of the head is tangent to /
> flush with the edge of the cooling fins. From the inbd edge of the port
> to
> the base of the head, the min depth of the fins is about 1/8 inch.
> Therefore, baffles that were truly tight in this region would cause zero
> airflow around the back side of the #3 head and the lower front quadrant
> of
> #2 at their extremities, and little airflow through the next region inbd.
>
> My baffle kit from Van's fits such that there is a gap on the order of 1/8
> inch between #3 cyl and the rear baffle. The way my particular baffle
> parts came, this gap is not really adjustable and isn't a product of
> installation error.
>
> There is about 3/32 gap between the heads in the inter cylinder area.
>
> I have no idea if Van's baffle kits have changed over time, and if perhaps
> some folks with the angle valve engines have older baffle kits that might
> not have the clearance gap built in.
>
> When convenient, could either / both of you guys verify that there is in
> fact no gap between your rear baffles and #3 at the casting part line?
> I'm
> not throwing rocks, casting aspersions, or anything else negative, but I
> am
> truly intrigued by your comments in light of other's experiences as well
> as
> the config of my baffle kit.
>
> TIA-
>
> glen matejcek
> aerobubba@earthlink.net
>
>> Glen,
>> I also do not think that this is correct.
>> I have 1400 hrs on my RV8. No gap, no cooling problem
>> I have always been taught that loose and poorly fit baffles were the
>> primary cause of cooling problems.
>
>
>> I don't think this is correct, Glen.
>>
>> Dan Hopper
>> RV-7A 200 HP Angle Valve IO-360, No gap and no cooling problem.
>>
>
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Lubricaton for Rod End Bearings |
I've always thought of LPS 3 as a corrosion inhibiter more than a
lubricant. It makes a waxy film, but isn't that great as a lube. I've
been using Boeshield T-9 for quite a while now. It penetrates, lubes and
stays around a long time. I'd avoid silicone based lubes if you're going
to be painting. The stuff is really hard to get rid of.
http://www.boeshield.com/
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ernie & Margo
Sent: Friday, December 22, 2006 11:13 AM
Subject: RV-List: Lubricaton for Rod End Bearings
I am getting ready to lubricate my rod ends for the first time - push
rods, control sticks, etc. I'm researching for a good lube product to
use. I've heard that an LPS-3 Heavy Duty Inhibiter is supposed to be
very good. I can't find anything about it - qualities or sources.
I think a suitable lube should be a gummy spray that is non-runny,
non-corrosive, non-abrasive, non-dripping, etc. A tall order for a
critical, well-hidden use - don't really get to inspect these areas
very often.
What have others been using with good lube qualities and are there any
downsides ? ? Thanks for any help. Ernie - RV-9A.
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Home simulator, which |
I am flying X-Plane. http://www.x-plane.com . There
are tone of planes to download at www.x-plane.org.
You need a 2 gig+ CPU to handle the program. Get lots
of VRAM. I fly with a MS joystick and CH rudder
pedals. There is a version of X-Plane that is used
for logging sim time towards an ATP rating. Try
flying a GIV through a thunderstorm without an
autopilot. If you can keep from going inverted, you
are good.
Dave
--- bertrv6@highstream.net wrote:
> bertrv6@highstream.net
>
>
>
> Hello:
>
> Now that winter is here, even in Florida, there
> are days not the best
> to fly...
> Sooo" I was thinking it would be a good idea to
> have an inexpensive
> simulator, I can use at home, and practice whatever,
> it can be done..
>
> The questions is what is the acceptable one, at
> a reasonable price...
>
> and what I need to have in the P.C. I HAVE WINDOWS
> XP, I am not sure
> what else as to programs.
>
> If some one now has one, and it is using it, would
> like to heard comments
> and details..
>
> Thanks
>
> Bert
>
> rv6a
>
> Do not archive..
>
>
>
> Click on
> about
> provided
> www.buildersbooks.com
> Admin.
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
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