Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:34 AM - Re: IO 360 (Charles Heathco)
2. 05:01 AM - Re: IO 360 and Garmin 296 (Bill Judge)
3. 06:10 AM - RV6 for sale (rv6n@optonline.net)
4. 08:41 AM - Re: Garmin internal battery replacement - DONE! IT WORKS! (Kelly Patterson)
5. 04:26 PM - Airpark Living (Bruno)
6. 04:48 PM - Re: Airpark Living (linn Walters)
7. 06:02 PM - Re: Airpark Living (Charlie England)
8. 10:28 PM - AFP fuel injection. (DEAN PSIROPOULOS)
9. 11:47 PM - Re: AFP fuel injection. (RICHARD MILLER)
Message 1
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Re new engine, I would definatly shop for good used low time. They are
out there. at least O-320's are. I looked at prices for new and
rebuilt/OH, and just too much money. I eventualy found a very low time
used just 3 hr drive from home and am coming up on 2 yrs, very good
engine. Charles Heathco
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: IO 360 and Garmin 296 |
For the IO-360 roller tappet discussion I think the reason that it has
become difficult to get an engine with out roller tappets is that the
standard flat face tappets are usually the first place that you get
spaulling in this engine from downtime; the roller tappets get rid of
this weak point. I bought my engine before thielert bought superior
and the roller tappets were a $5000 upgrade, now the cost is much less
and I'm really bummed that I don't have them.
I got my XP-360 from Aero engines of Winchester. I paid ~$3000 less
than the list for an XP-360 and Tom doesn't charge an extra $1500 to
come help build the engine. Every time I've got an engine question he
is there for me too. I showed up at 8 am and left at 6 PM with a
brand new engine.
http://airnav.com/airport/KOKV/AERO_ENGINES_OF_WINCHESTER#c
For the Garmin 296 question, I've had really good luck emailing George
Koelsch, George.Koelsch@garmin.com with my tech questions. He's
pretty good about getting that sort of thing squared away.
On Sun, Apr 27, 2008 at 2:57 AM, RV-List Digest Server
<rv-list@matronics.com> wrote:
> *
>
> =================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> =================================================
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> Today's complete RV-List Digest can also be found in either of the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
> of the RV-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 08-04-26&Archive=RV
>
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>
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> ---
> Total Messages Posted Sat 04/26/08: 11
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 03:21 AM - Re: Current crop of pitot tubes ()
> 2. 05:19 AM - Re: Re: Current crop of pitot tubes (Bob Leffler)
> 3. 10:15 AM - Re: Re: Current crop of pitot tubes (Tim Bryan)
> 4. 11:53 AM - IO 360 (Carl Bell)
> 5. 01:15 PM - Re: Re: Current crop of pitot tubes (Les Kearney)
> 6. 02:27 PM - Re: IO 360 (william hilling)
> 7. 02:57 PM - Four New Email Lists At Matronics!! (Matt Dralle)
> 8. 05:31 PM - Re: IO 360 (n801bh@netzero.com)
> 9. 07:18 PM - Re: Garmin 296 (Leland Collins)
> 10. 08:44 PM - Re: IO 360 (Kelly McMullen)
> 11. 09:04 PM - Re: Re: Garmin 296 (Greg Young)
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 03:21:15 AM PST US
> From: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Re: Current crop of pitot tubes
>
> Before I make my two suggestions here is why you should not install one.
>
> Deviation for Vans plans will add weight, cost and build time. Yes you are
right
> you don't need a heated pitot as a VFR pilot. In fact you don't need one for
> an IFR plane either (please read the regs before you dispute this). As a pilot
> with over 12,000 hrs and many 1000's of yours in IMC you can't get icing unless
> you are in cloud or in freezing precipitation and the temp is below freezing.
> Very simple no mosture no ice. No freezing or sub-freezing temp no ice.
> Avoid one or both no ice. So you get into icing in your IFR RV-10 when you get
> your rating. FIRST you should have your ticket taken back since you should NOT
> be in icing. You have no business being in it, and if you wounder into it,
> you should get out of it ASAP, climb, descend or 180 degree. If you collect
ice
> on your airframe that you see, you are in icing conditions and now have violated
> FAR's and also common sense. My point is do you really need a heated pitot?
> No. Run some wires out there, but leave it off.
> So what if you pitot gets blocked, you loose what airspeed? Well you have GPS
> ground speed. However some "experimental EFIS" do use airspeed or change in
airspeed
> (ie acceleration) to resolve some accelerometer error. Even still they
> work with out airspeed I am told (Dynon).
>
> If you must have a heated pitot, Dynon makes one for their EFIS with AOA.
>
> http://www.dynonavionics.com/docs/D180_Feature_AOA.html
>
> And these guys make a heated version for experimental's:
>
> http://www.gretzaero.com/
>
> They both have some interesting temp control deal which is nice to keep from
> burning it out if you leave it on. Your other choice is ACS or some salvage
yard
> Cessna or Piper heated pitot, which are old and tired.
>
> Bottom line its going to be about $500 of STUFF sitting out on your wing when
> you get it all wired with CB and a few pounds more.
>
> Cheers George
>
>
> *************************************************************************************
> Time: 01:34:02 AM PST US
> From: Dan Charrois <danlist@syz.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Current crop of pitot tubes
>
>
> Hi all. I'm working on an RV-10 and am at the point now of
> considering what kind of pitot tube to put in the thing. The bent
> aluminum tube idea, though functional, doesn't really appeal to me.
>
> Though I'm not an IFR pilot at the moment, I don't intend to remain
> that way indefinitely, and I'd like to future-proof the plane as much
> as practical. So I'm looking at putting in a heated pitot. Up until
> now I've been assuming I'd go with a Gretz pitot - I like the idea of
> its internal temperature regulation rather than just running at
> maximum current draw the whole time it's on. But of course now that
> I'm actually ready to get one it appears as though they're not
> currently being manufactured and I haven't found anywhere that has
> them in stock.
>
> So what other options could anyone out there suggest?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Dan
> --
> Syzygy Research & Technology
> Box 83, Legal, AB T0G 1L0 Canada
> Phone: 780-961-2213
> *************************************************************************************
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
>
> ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 05:19:29 AM PST US
> From: "Bob Leffler" <rv@thelefflers.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Current crop of pitot tubes
>
> Unfortunately, Gretz Aero has suspended manufacturing of their pitot.
> Warren has posted information on his web site. Both ACS and Stein appear to
> be out of stock.
>
>
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com
> Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2008 6:15 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Re: Current crop of pitot tubes
>
>
> Before I make my two suggestions here is why you should not install one.
>
>
> Deviation for Vans plans will add weight, cost and build time. Yes you are
> right you don't need a heated pitot as a VFR pilot. In fact you don't need
> one for an IFR plane either (please read the regs before you dispute this).
> As a pilot with over 12,000 hrs and many 1000's of yours in IMC you can't
> get icing unless you are in cloud or in freezing precipitation and the temp
> is below freezing. Very simple no mosture no ice. No freezing or
> sub-freezing temp no ice. Avoid one or both no ice. So you get into icing in
> your IFR RV-10 when you get your rating. FIRST you should have your ticket
> taken back since you should NOT be in icing. You have no business being in
> it, and if you wounder into it, you should get out of it ASAP, climb,
> descend or 180 degree. If you collect ice on your airframe that you see, you
> are in icing conditions and now have violated FAR's and also common sense.
> My point is do you really need a heated pitot? No. Run some wires out there,
> but leave it off. So what if you pitot gets blocked, you loose what
> airspeed? Well you have GPS ground speed. However some "experimental EFIS"
> do use airspeed or change in airspeed (ie acceleration) to resolve some
> accelerometer error. Even still they work with out airspeed I am told
> (Dynon).
>
>
> If you must have a heated pitot, Dynon makes one for their EFIS with AOA.
>
>
> http://www.dynonavionics.com/docs/D180_Feature_AOA.html
>
>
> And these guys make a heated version for experimental's:
>
>
> http://www.gretzaero.com/
>
>
> They both have some interesting temp control deal which is nice to keep from
> burning it out if you leave it on. Your other choice is ACS or some salvage
> yard Cessna or Piper heated pitot, which are old and tired.
>
>
> Bottom line its going to be about $500 of STUFF sitting out on your wing
> when you get it all wired with CB and a few pounds more.
>
>
> Cheers George
>
>
> ****************************************************************************
> *********
>
> Time: 01:34:02 AM PST US
> From: Dan Charrois <danlist@syz.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Current crop of pitot tubes
>
>
> Hi all. I'm working on an RV-10 and am at the point now of
> considering what kind of pitot tube to put in the thing. The bent
> aluminum tube idea, though functional, doesn't really appeal to me.
>
> Though I'm not an IFR pilot at the moment, I don't intend to remain
> that way indefinitely, and I'd like to future-proof the plane as much
> as practical. So I'm looking at putting in a heated pitot. Up until
> now I've been assuming I'd go with a Gretz pitot - I like the idea of
> its internal temperature regulation rather than just running at
> maximum current draw the whole time it's on. But of course now that
> I'm actually ready to get one it appears as though they're not
> currently being manufactured and I haven't found anywhere that has
> them in stock.
>
> So what other options could anyone out there suggest?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Dan
> --
> Syzygy Research & Technology
> Box 83, Legal, AB T0G 1L0 Canada
> Phone: 780-961-2213
>
> ****************************************************************************
> *********
>
>
> _____
>
> Be a better friend, newshound, and
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 10:15:23 AM PST US
> From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb@btsapps.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Current crop of pitot tubes
>
> George,
>
>
> I almost really hate to post this considering all things but I cannot agree
> with your assessment in whole. I also am an IFR pilot and you are right
> but. You cannot always guarantee you will not be in ice just because you
> don't want to. I have flown into clouds on an IFR flight plan with no
> expected icing. I did not have icing equipment but flew right into an ice
> situation where it built up very quickly and then quit (about 15 seconds).
> I had two choices: either turn around and fly back through it or keep going
> and hope to avoid any more. With ice on the prop, wings, pitot, and
> windscreen I had a big problem. I was flying a C170 B with the 180 HP
> engine and constant speed prop. I was thankful to have the big engine
> because I lost 500 feet altitude (was given lower by ATC) and was still
> flying at very low airspeed. If I remember right I was pitched up to about
> 75 MPH just to maintain my altitude. Thankfully I did have a heated pitot
> because my airspeed indication was critical. It was one thing I badly
> needed and thankfully had.
>
>
> After crossing the Big Bear mountains, I was given a descent into the palm
> springs area. Even well after getting out of the clouds I was IFR due to
> the ice on the windscreen. It shed off much later as I got down below
> 4000'. The short of this is, if one is going to fly IFR, whether required
> or not and even if not expected to get into ice, a heated pitot is a smart
> choice. I have the Gretz in my RV-6.
>
>
> Call me stupid if you want, but I was really glad I had it, and never
> intended to experience the opportunity to need it.
>
>
> Tim
>
> RV-6
>
> IFR with heated pitot.
>
>
> _____
>
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com
> Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2008 5:15 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Re: Current crop of pitot tubes
>
>
> Before I make my two suggestions here is why you should not install one.
>
>
> Deviation for Vans plans will add weight, cost and build time. Yes you are
> right you don't need a heated pitot as a VFR pilot. In fact you don't need
> one for an IFR plane either (please read the regs before you dispute this).
> As a pilot with over 12,000 hrs and many 1000's of yours in IMC you can't
> get icing unless you are in cloud or in freezing precipitation and the temp
> is below freezing. Very simple no mosture no ice. No freezing or
> sub-freezing temp no ice. Avoid one or both no ice. So you get into icing in
> your IFR RV-10 when you get your rating. FIRST you should have your ticket
> taken back since you should NOT be in icing. You have no business being in
> it, and if you wounder into it, you should get out of it ASAP, climb,
> descend or 180 degree. If you collect ice on your airframe that you see, you
> are in icing conditions and now have violated FAR's and also common sense.
> My point is do you really need a heated pitot? No. Run some wires out there,
> but leave it off. So what if you pitot gets blocked, you loose what
> airspeed? Well you have GPS ground speed. However some "experimental EFIS"
> do use airspeed or change in airspeed (ie acceleration) to resolve some
> accelerometer error. Even still they work with out airspeed I am told
> (Dynon).
>
>
> If you must have a heated pitot, Dynon makes one for their EFIS with AOA.
>
>
> http://www.dynonavionics.com/docs/D180_Feature_AOA.html
>
>
> And these guys make a heated version for experimental's:
>
>
> http://www.gretzaero.com/
>
>
> They both have some interesting temp control deal which is nice to keep from
> burning it out if you leave it on. Your other choice is ACS or some salvage
> yard Cessna or Piper heated pitot, which are old and tired.
>
>
> Bottom line its going to be about $500 of STUFF sitting out on your wing
> when you get it all wired with CB and a few pounds more.
>
>
> Cheers George
>
>
> ****************************************************************************
> *********
>
> Time: 01:34:02 AM PST US
> From: Dan Charrois <danlist@syz.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Current crop of pitot tubes
>
>
> Hi all. I'm working on an RV-10 and am at the point now of
> considering what kind of pitot tube to put in the thing. The bent
> aluminum tube idea, though functional, doesn't really appeal to me.
>
> Though I'm not an IFR pilot at the moment, I don't intend to remain
> that way indefinitely, and I'd like to future-proof the plane as much
> as practical. So I'm looking at putting in a heated pitot. Up until
> now I've been assuming I'd go with a Gretz pitot - I like the idea of
> its internal temperature regulation rather than just running at
> maximum current draw the whole time it's on. But of course now that
> I'm actually ready to get one it appears as though they're not
> currently being manufactured and I haven't found anywhere that has
> them in stock.
>
> So what other options could anyone out there suggest?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Dan
> --
> Syzygy Research & Technology
> Box 83, Legal, AB T0G 1L0 Canada
> Phone: 780-961-2213
>
> ****************************************************************************
> *********
>
>
> _____
>
> Be a better friend, newshound, and
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 11:53:00 AM PST US
> From: "Carl Bell" <carlbell@gforcecable.com>
> Subject: RV-List: IO 360
>
> Hi builders,
>
> I could use a little help on engines:
>
> I have started looking for a new engine an I must admit I have sticker
> shock. As near as I can tell a new IO 360 M1B type engine from any of the
> major experimental builder will cost 22-29K depending on options. SO is
> there another way. I was hoping for something more like 18K which is what it
> was when I first started doing my project. Since I have the finishing kit
> for horizontal induction, I will need to go that way or change the lower
> cowl. I'm afraid this may have limited my options. (done before realizing
> the issue)
> ALso a few questions:
> 1. ECI solid tappets vs Superior rollor tappets, is this worth $2K?
> 2. Dual Slicks vs one Slick and one Pmag $500 + or - a little,
> thoughts?
> 3. Horioztal induction, will I save money by going vertical, it seems
> if I do change the cowl I will save 1K on the engine, but have to spend $500
> on a new lower cowl
> Currently I am thiking of an ECI engine from Aerosport but that will come in
> a 23K to 24K and is solid lifters. Any thoughts or help is appreciated.
> __________________
> Carl Bell (CJ)
> RV 7A (Finishing kit)
> N947CB Reserved
> http://www.mykitlog.com/carlbell
> carlbell@gforcecable.com
> Aiken, SC
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 01:15:16 PM PST US
> From: Les Kearney <kearney@shaw.ca>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Current crop of pitot tubes
>
> George
>
>
> There are a few too many absolutes in your post. For a/c not certified for
> "known icing", unexpectedly encountering icing is not a FAR violation - it
> is however a dangerous situation. FAR's prohibit intentional flight into
> "known icing".
>
>
> Having a heated pitot in my PA28 or my in -10 (still in pieces) does not
> mean that I intend to get into an icing situation. It does mean that I am
> taking reasonable safety precautions to help me manage the situation in the
> unlikely event that it does happen. This same attitude means that I would
> not buy a car without airbags even though I do not intend to get into an
> accident.
>
>
> I am sure that in your 12k hours, you have seen more than a few situations
> where reality has not matched the forecast. Being prepared for the
> unexpected is just good common sense.
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
> Les
>
> _____
>
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com
> Sent: April-26-08 4:15 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Re: Current crop of pitot tubes
>
>
> Before I make my two suggestions here is why you should not install one.
>
>
> Deviation for Vans plans will add weight, cost and build time. Yes you are
> right you don't need a heated pitot as a VFR pilot. In fact you don't need
> one for an IFR plane either (please read the regs before you dispute this).
> As a pilot with over 12,000 hrs and many 1000's of yours in IMC you can't
> get icing unless you are in cloud or in freezing precipitation and the temp
> is below freezing. Very simple no mosture no ice. No freezing or
> sub-freezing temp no ice. Avoid one or both no ice. So you get into icing in
> your IFR RV-10 when you get your rating. FIRST you should have your ticket
> taken back since you should NOT be in icing. You have no business being in
> it, and if you wounder into it, you should get out of it ASAP, climb,
> descend or 180 degree. If you collect ice on your airframe that you see, you
> are in icing conditions and now have violated FAR's and also common sense.
> My point is do you really need a heated pitot? No. Run some wires out there,
> but leave it off. So what if you pitot gets blocked, you loose what
> airspeed? Well you have GPS ground speed. However some "experimental EFIS"
> do use airspeed or change in airspeed (ie acceleration) to resolve some
> accelerometer error. Even still they work with out airspeed I am told
> (Dynon).
>
>
> If you must have a heated pitot, Dynon makes one for their EFIS with AOA.
>
>
> http://www.dynonavionics.com/docs/D180_Feature_AOA.html
>
>
> And these guys make a heated version for experimental's:
>
>
> http://www.gretzaero.com/
>
>
> They both have some interesting temp control deal which is nice to keep from
> burning it out if you leave it on. Your other choice is ACS or some salvage
> yard Cessna or Piper heated pitot, which are old and tired.
>
>
> Bottom line its going to be about $500 of STUFF sitting out on your wing
> when you get it all wired with CB and a few pounds more.
>
>
> Cheers George
>
>
> ****************************************************************************
> *********
>
> Time: 01:34:02 AM PST US
> From: Dan Charrois <danlist@syz.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Current crop of pitot tubes
>
>
> Hi all. I'm working on an RV-10 and am at the point now of
> considering what kind of pitot tube to put in the thing. The bent
> aluminum tube idea, though functional, doesn't really appeal to me.
>
> Though I'm not an IFR pilot at the moment, I don't intend to remain
> that way indefinitely, and I'd like to future-proof the plane as much
> as practical. So I'm looking at putting in a heated pitot. Up until
> now I've been assuming I'd go with a Gretz pitot - I like the idea of
> its internal temperature regulation rather than just running at
> maximum current draw the whole time it's on. But of course now that
> I'm actually ready to get one it appears as though they're not
> currently being manufactured and I haven't found anywhere that has
> them in stock.
>
> So what other options could anyone out there suggest?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Dan
> --
> Syzygy Research & Technology
> Box 83, Legal, AB T0G 1L0 Canada
> Phone: 780-961-2213
>
> ****************************************************************************
> *********
>
>
> _____
>
> Be a better friend, newshound, and
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 02:27:11 PM PST US
> From: william hilling <f.1.rocket@hotmail.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: IO 360
>
>
> Try Aeroengines of Winchester,Va. Their phone number is 540-678-1661 and as
> k for Tom. Their prices
> and work are very good.
> Cheers,
> Craig
>
>
> From: carlbell@gforcecable.comTo: rv-list@matronics.comSubject: RV-List: IO
> 360 Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2008 14:50:01 -0400
>
>
> Hi builders,I could use a little help on engines: I have started looking fo
> r a new engine an I must admit I have sticker shock. As near as I can tell
> a new IO 360 M1B type engine from any of the major experimental builder wil
> l cost 22-29K depending on options. SO is there another way. I was hoping f
> or something more like 18K which is what it was when I first started doing
> my project. Since I have the finishing kit for horizontal induction, I will
> need to go that way or change the lower cowl. I'm afraid this may have lim
> ited my options. (done before realizing the issue) ALso a few questions:
>
> ECI solid tappets vs Superior rollor tappets, is this worth $2K?
> Dual Slicks vs one Slick and one Pmag $500 + or - a little, thoughts?
> Horioztal induction, will I save money by going vertical, it seems if I do
> change the cowl I will save 1K on the engine, but have to spend $500 on a n
> ew lower cowl
> Currently I am thiking of an ECI engine from Aerosport but that will come i
> n a 23K to 24K and is solid lifters. Any thoughts or help is appreciated.
> __________________Carl Bell (CJ)RV 7A (Finishing kit)N947CB Reservedhttp://
> www.mykitlog.com/carlbellcarlbell@gforcecable.comAiken, SC
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Express yourself wherever you are. Mobilize!
> http://www.gowindowslive.com/Mobile/Landing/Messenger/Default.aspx?Locale
> =en-US?ocid=TAG_APRIL
>
> ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 02:57:04 PM PST US
> From: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Four New Email Lists At Matronics!!
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> I have added four new Lists to the Matronics line up today. These include the
> following categories:
>
> Citabria-List Citabria, Decathlon, Scout, and Champ
>
> Zenith601-List Zenair Zodiac CH 601
>
> Zenith640-List Zenair Zodiac CH 640
>
> Zenith701801-List Zenair STOL CH 701 and CH 801
>
>
> All services are enabled and now available including Search, Browse, Digest,
Archives,
> Forums, Chat, etc., etc. etc...:
>
> Citabria:
> http://www.matronics.com/navigator?citabria-list
>
> Zenith601:
> http://www.matronics.com/navigator?zenith601-list
>
> Zenith640:
> http://www.matronics.com/navigator?zenith640-list
>
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> Enjoy the new Lists!! Don't forget me during the Fund Raiser! :-)
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> Matt Dralle
> Matronics Email List Administrator
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 05:31:28 PM PST US
> From: "n801bh@netzero.com" <n801bh@netzero.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: IO 360
>
> In 2008 there should be no engine manfacturers selling anything but roll
> er lifters... Geez...
>
>
> do not archive
>
>
> <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:of
> fice" />Hi builders,
>
> I could use a little help on engines:
>
>
> I have started looking for a new engine an I must admit I have sticker s
> hock. As near as I can tell a new IO 360 M1B type engine from any of the
> major experimental builder will cost 22-29K depending on options. SO is
> there another way. I was hoping for something more like 18K which is wh
> at it was when I first started doing my project. Since I have the finish
> ing kit for horizontal induction, I will need to go that way or change t
> he lower cowl. I'm afraid this may have limited my options. (done before
> realizing the issue)
>
> ALso a few questions:
>
> ECI solid tappets vs <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-
> microsoft-com:office:smarttags" />Superior rollor tappets, is this worth
> $2K?
>
> Dual Slicks vs one Slick and one Pmag $500 + or - a little, thoughts?
>
> Horioztal induction, will I save money by going vertical, it seems if I
> do change the cowl I will save 1K on the engine, but have to spend $500
> on a new lower cowl
>
> Currently I am thiking of an ECI engine from Aerosport but that will com
> e in a 23K to 24K and is solid lifters. Any thoughts or help is apprecia
> ted.
> __________________
> Carl Bell (CJ)
> RV 7A (Finishing kit)
> N947CB Reserved
> http://www.mykitlog.com/carlbell
> carlbell@gforcecable.com
> Aiken, SC
>
>
> =======================
> =======================
> =======================
> =======================
> =======================
> =======================
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> Click to find deals on GPS Systems, don't get lost.
> http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2221/fc/Ioyw6i4uMR73TcYxjVbtMzfP1
> mrXvh2qvouTzAMECOdwnsFgmisOdd/
>
> ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 07:18:58 PM PST US
> Subject: RV-List: Re: Garmin 296
> From: "Leland Collins" <federigo@pacbell.net>
>
>
> [quote="Leland Collins"]I've had the same problem with my 4-year old Garmin 296 being unable to lock onto satellites after loosing its internal date. I think its a dead battery problem because the battery looses about 20% of its charge overnight. I just ordered a new battery from www.batteriesamerica.com for $59 plus $11 shipping. Garmin supposedly now has the part number 010-10517-01 as a replacement for the original 011-00955-00 unit. The replacement part has a larger capacity rating. The replacement unit is the same for the 396 and 496.
> Leland[/quote]
> I changed the main battery and the problem is still there. If I do not fly the
> plane for several days, the unit stops tracking the date/time. Now the question
> is: Is it possible to change the "time" battery without sending it to Garmin?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=179502#179502
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 08:44:18 PM PST US
> From: Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: IO 360
>
>
> No IO-360 uses solid lifters. I'm sure you meant hydraulic lifters with
> flat faces, as opposed to roller tip lifters that Lyc introduced a few
> years ago. There is no power benefit from Pmag so why spend the money?
>
> Carl Bell wrote:
> >
> > Hi builders,
> >
> > I could use a little help on engines:
> >
> > I have started looking for a new engine an I must admit I have sticker
> > shock. As near as I can tell a new IO 360 M1B type engine from any of
> > the major experimental builder will cost 22-29K depending on options.
> > SO is there another way. I was hoping for something more like 18K
> > which is what it was when I first started doing my project. Since I
> > have the finishing kit for horizontal induction, I will need to go
> > that way or change the lower cowl. I'm afraid this may have limited my
> > options. (done before realizing the issue)
> > ALso a few questions:
> >
> > 1. ECI solid tappets vs Superior rollor tappets, is this worth $2K?
> > 2. Dual Slicks vs one Slick and one Pmag $500 + or - a little,
> > thoughts?
> > 3. Horioztal induction, will I save money by going vertical, it
> > seems if I do change the cowl I will save 1K on the engine, but
> > have to spend $500 on a new lower cowl
> >
> > Currently I am thiking of an ECI engine from Aerosport but that will
> > come in a 23K to 24K and is solid lifters. Any thoughts or help is
> > appreciated.
> >
> > __________________
> > Carl Bell (CJ)
> > RV 7A (Finishing kit)
> > N947CB Reserved
> > http://www.mykitlog.com/carlbell
> > carlbell@gforcecable.com <mailto:carlbell@gforcecable.com>
> > Aiken, SC
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > *
> >
> >
> > *
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 09:04:06 PM PST US
> From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Garmin 296
>
>
> Call Garmin first and let them take you through the troubleshooting steps.
> There is a memory corruption issue that causes the same symptoms. If they
> can confirm the real time clock battery really is bad, they might replace
> it.
>
> Regards,
> Greg Young
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> > Leland Collins
> > Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2008 9:15 PM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: Re: Garmin 296
> >
> >
> > [quote="Leland Collins"]I've had the same problem with my
> > 4-year old Garmin 296 being unable to lock onto satellites
> > after loosing its internal date. I think its a dead battery
> > problem because the battery looses about 20% of its charge
> > overnight. I just ordered a new battery from
> > www.batteriesamerica.com for $59 plus $11 shipping. Garmin
> > supposedly now has the part number 010-10517-01 as a
> > replacement for the original 011-00955-00 unit. The
> > replacement part has a larger capacity rating. The
> > replacement unit is the same for the 396 and 496.
> > Leland[/quote]
> > I changed the main battery and the problem is still there. If
> > I do not fly the plane for several days, the unit stops
> > tracking the date/time. Now the question is: Is it possible
> > to change the "time" battery without sending it to Garmin?
> >
>
>
Message 3
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It is with great regret that I am listing my 2005 RV6 QB slider for sale. Total
time 73 hours A&E since new. Aerosport 0-360 A2A fixed pitch metal Sensenich
prop. Grand Rapids Horizon 1 EFIS MFD, Bendix/King KMD 150 w/GPS MFD, electric
flaps, Garmin SL40 and GTX 320A, and all the Good Stuff! To much to list here.
Contact me off line at RV6n@optonline.net for all the details. Selling
due to loss of medical. $92,500
Also for Sale, two wooded acres runway lot at Long Island Airpark on Lake Norman, NC. Phase two Lot 8 not listed with a realtor yet and will show as sold if you look it up at www.longislandairpark.com $210,000 with a 24 ft boat slip in the new marina.
Bob Bales RV6n@optonline.net 631-495-9689
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin internal battery replacement - DONE! IT WORKS! |
This is good info for everyone who has a Garmin 296 / 396 / 496 / 495 / etc.
I have a ~4 year old Garmin 396 that had issues locking onto satellites. My
last flight of over an hour had the Garmin failing to lock at all. Time to
fix something - pretty sure it was the internal battery (not the big pop-off
battery).
I'd read that the repair is $250-400 and for that price it was worth seeing
if I could fix it myself. I split the case and disassembled the unit.
Found the internal battery, found a replacement, reassembled , powered up
and BAM! locked on the satellites. Success.
I won't post the pictures and text here since I'm moving and will no longer
have web service through my same provider. However - if you want
instructions with photos, and someone here could post them on the
VansAirforce.net site, I will gladly send them to you.
email me direct at kbob@cox.net.
Kelly Patterson
RV-6A N716K
PHX moving to DEN
Time: 07:18:58 PM PST US
Subject: RV-List: Re: Garmin 296
From: "Leland Collins" <federigo@pacbell.net>
[quote="Leland Collins"]I've had the same problem with my 4-year old Garmin
296 being unable to lock onto satellites after loosing its internal date. I
think its a dead battery problem because the battery looses about 20% of its
charge overnight. I just ordered a new battery from www.batteriesamerica.com
for $59 plus $11 shipping. Garmin supposedly now has the part number
010-10517-01 as a replacement for the original 011-00955-00 unit. The
replacement part has a larger capacity rating. The replacement unit is the
same for the 396 and 496.
Leland[/quote]
I changed the main battery and the problem is still there. If I do not fly
the
plane for several days, the unit stops tracking the date/time. Now the
question
is: Is it possible to change the "time" battery without sending it to
Garmin?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=179502#179502
Message 5
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Hello listers
I'm in the process of buying property on an Airpark and
I would like to have ideas,pictures, samples of houses/ hangars combinaison that
anyone of you living on an airpark may have so I can summit ideas to the developper
on what I'm planning on building.
Also any infos or do's and don'ts about living on an airpark will be appreciated.
Thank you
You may reply ''off'' list if you wish
Bruno Dionne
RV-4 C-GDBH (Flying)
rv4@videotron.ca
Do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Airpark Living |
You make me jealous! I've dreamed of doing just what you are for years
.... but moving away from my kids and grandkids isn't worth it to me.
The best resource is http://www.livingwithyourplane.com/ ...... become a
'member' and you'll have access to house plans and all things associated
with airparks.
Linn
Bruno wrote:
> Hello listers
>
> I'm in the process of buying property on an
> Airpark and I would like to have ideas,pictures, samples of houses/
> hangars combinaison that anyone of you living on an airpark may have
> so I can summit ideas to the developper on what I'm planning on building.
>
> Also any infos or do's and don'ts about living on an airpark will be
> appreciated.
>
> Thank you
>
> You may reply ''off'' list if you wish
>
> Bruno Dionne
> RV-4 C-GDBH (Flying)
> rv4@videotron.ca <mailto:rv4@videotron.ca>
>
> Do not archive
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Airpark Living |
Bruno wrote:
>> Hello listers
>>
>> I'm in the process of buying property on an
>> Airpark and I would like to have ideas,pictures, samples of houses/
>> hangars combinaison that anyone of you living on an airpark may have
>> so I can summit ideas to the developper on what I'm planning on building.
>>
>> Also any infos or do's and don'ts about living on an airpark will be
>> appreciated.
>>
>> Thank you
>>
>> You may reply ''off'' list if you wish
>>
>> Bruno Dionne
>> RV-4 C-GDBH (Flying)
>> rv4@videotron.ca <mailto:rv4@videotron.ca>
>>
>> Do not archive
>>
If you plan on building/painting/maintaining a plane in the hangar, you
might want to consider keeping the hangar separate from the house. I
haven't lived in a combo setup, but my wife has an aversion to all the
chemical odors I bring back from the hangar so I'm pretty sure there'd
be major problems if the hangar was connected to the house.
I have 12' eaves on my hangar; one of my neighbors has 14'. He has room
for a much taller door (a big twin or tall taildragger is no problem) &
can have a mezzanine with enough headroom to walk around under, under
the ridge line of the roof. A typical 12' bi-fold door only has about
10' of clear height & big antique biplanes, twins, etc just barely clear
them.
If my lot had been wide enough I'd have wanted the hangar & house side
by side, so I could sit on the deck or at the hangar & not have my view
obstructed by the other building. (A grass runway is like having a
really big yard that you only have to mow a couple of times a summer,
when it's your turn.)
If you have more than one plane or share a hangar, doors on both ends of
the hangar would make it much easier to move planes in & out (you give
up wall space, of course).
Lightweight kitchen stuff is useful in the hangar; restroom is essential
(shower is a good option).
At least a small work space in the hangar insulated/heated (a/c
optional). Heating the entire hangar for working on small stuff can get
expensive.
We moved an existing house to our lot. The house started its life as an
early '50s ranch, with a low pitched roof & 4' overhangs. Great for
keeping the hot sun out of the house, but not so hot for looking out the
window at planes overflying the runway. If Ed McMahon comes to visit,
I'll put a gable roof with vaulted ceiling over the den so we can see
out & up.
When you plan the deck, make it as big as you can ever imagine needing.
Then increase it by 50%. Then add another 40 square feet. If you plan a
porch, be sure it doesn't block the view from the deck. Our master
bedroom, den, etc are on the side of the house facing the runway. Little
used rooms face away from the runway. If the deck is anywhere near the
bedroom, consider making it at least a couple of feet lower than the
floor level of the house (helps maintain privacy in the bedrooms).
Big windows with low E coating & argon filled spaces.
Metal works just as well for a house roof as a hangar roof, & helps keep
energy costs down in summer (if you insulate under it).
If the runway is N/S, try to build on the west side of the runway. Sun
is nice in the morning, not so much in the afternoon. (We are in the
southern USA; your situation might be very different.)
If you can afford to just write checks, do so. (I'm 5 years behind on my
RV-7 project.)
Charlie
Slobovia Outernational Airport
Message 8
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| Subject: | AFP fuel injection. |
Please help:
I'm putting all the pieces of my RV-6A together for the final time to get
ready for engine start and I just keep running into one frustration after
another. Yesterday I was installing the Vetterman exhaust and had to think
up and make some mods to the tail pipe hangar set up on the right side
because I had put the fat starter wire close by (which created interference
with the original hangar configuration).
Today I finished the exhaust and began the final install of my Airflow
Performance Fuel controller (throttle body). Since I have a tri gear
airplane there are steel tubes that are angled down through this area to
connect to the nose gear leg socket. Since the AFP fuel controller is
physically larger than a carburetor I had to do some real head scratching to
fabricate throttle and mixture cable mounting brackets that didn't interfere
with the gear leg socket tubes. Unfortunately, at the time I didn't have
the exhaust hangars in place or I might have noticed that the intersection
of the hangars at the pipe (where incidentally, I had to make the mods last
night to make them work with the fat starter wire) was smack in the middle
of where the throttle cable passes through!!!
Those of you who have AFP fuel injection fitted to the bottom of the sump
(updraft configuration on a parallel valve Lycoming 320/360 on tri gear RV
and using the AFP bracket that bolts between the fuel controller and sump)
could you take some pictures of your throttle and mixture mounting brackets
and email them to me? Serious frustration has set in, I've made and remade
so many things over the 11 years of this project that my motivation is gone.
I go to the hangar on weekends thinking I'm going to get a lot accomplished
and not much seems to get done even though I always have a tool in my hand
(today was mostly head scratching wondering how I'm going make this work
with the exhaust hangar mod, I have to come up with a new bracket
configuration and right now I'm not seeing any other options, should have
just bought a carburetor). When I got the canopy and windscreen done a
couple months ago I thought it was smooth sailing till first flight. Yet
I'm still having to remake and modify things that I had done months (or even
years) ago. Anyone want to buy a 99% project cheap :-( Any builders
assistance folks want to come to FL and finish this thing :-(( I'm tired of
going to the hangar every night and weekend and still no flying airplane
(meanwhile there's 9/11, TFRs, user fees, $5/gal gas....).
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Will I ever fly this thing?
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: AFP fuel injection. |
DEAN
80 % OF THE CONSTRUCTION TAKES 20% OF THE TIME. THE REMAINING 20% IS THE "HOW
DO I MAKE THIS CRAP WORK" And takes the remaining 80% of the time to figure out..
While doing fire wall foward work, i know that this sounds like building
101 but for others it should be said, place all big pieces on the engine, assy/
exhaust/ intakes,/airboxes/ oil coolers. next place baffles. next is the control
cables, next is hoses. then wire the damn thing. and never cut a cable
, hose or wire untill ever thing is in posistion. long is cheap, short is expensive.
That said dont let the frustration get to you. with out a pic of your install
i can not help but the guys at afp are great to work with. i have a customers
system there right now. i am sure they will be able to help. after all are we
are talking about is four brackets /cables and springs. you have built an airplane
and after this you will be able to make really big noises with it. good
luck. call if you get stuck call 559----270-----7113
rick m
a+p.i/a
j-3
pa-12
c-150
c-152
c-172
c-206
b-18
c-120
and when i finish the 120 and the wife lets me builder of an rv-9
DEAN PSIROPOULOS <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net> wrote:
Please help:
I'm putting all the pieces of my RV-6A together for the final time to get
ready for engine start and I just keep running into one frustration after
another. Yesterday I was installing the Vetterman exhaust and had to think
up and make some mods to the tail pipe hangar set up on the right side
because I had put the fat starter wire close by (which created interference
with the original hangar configuration).
Today I finished the exhaust and began the final install of my Airflow
Performance Fuel controller (throttle body). Since I have a tri gear
airplane there are steel tubes that are angled down through this area to
connect to the nose gear leg socket. Since the AFP fuel controller is
physically larger than a carburetor I had to do some real head scratching to
fabricate throttle and mixture cable mounting brackets that didn't interfere
with the gear leg socket tubes. Unfortunately, at the time I didn't have
the exhaust hangars in place or I might have noticed that the intersection
of the hangars at the pipe (where incidentally, I had to make the mods last
night to make them work with the fat starter wire) was smack in the middle
of where the throttle cable passes through!!!
Those of you who have AFP fuel injection fitted to the bottom of the sump
(updraft configuration on a parallel valve Lycoming 320/360 on tri gear RV
and using the AFP bracket that bolts between the fuel controller and sump)
could you take some pictures of your throttle and mixture mounting brackets
and email them to me? Serious frustration has set in, I've made and remade
so many things over the 11 years of this project that my motivation is gone.
I go to the hangar on weekends thinking I'm going to get a lot accomplished
and not much seems to get done even though I always have a tool in my hand
(today was mostly head scratching wondering how I'm going make this work
with the exhaust hangar mod, I have to come up with a new bracket
configuration and right now I'm not seeing any other options, should have
just bought a carburetor). When I got the canopy and windscreen done a
couple months ago I thought it was smooth sailing till first flight. Yet
I'm still having to remake and modify things that I had done months (or even
years) ago. Anyone want to buy a 99% project cheap :-( Any builders
assistance folks want to come to FL and finish this thing :-(( I'm tired of
going to the hangar every night and weekend and still no flying airplane
(meanwhile there's 9/11, TFRs, user fees, $5/gal gas....).
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Will I ever fly this thing?
---------------------------------
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