Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:09 AM - Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly Posting] (dralle@matronics.com)
2. 07:07 AM - Skybolt Cowling Fastener kit (Tim Olson)
3. 08:23 AM - Re: Skybolt Cowling Fastener kit (Gary Specketer)
4. 08:53 AM - Re: Skybolt Cowling Fastener kit (Dan Checkoway)
5. 09:48 AM - weight and balance (David McNeill)
6. 10:28 AM - Re: New Toy - Chelton Screenshots (Mark & Kelly)
7. 11:26 AM - Re: Skybolt Cowling Fastener kit (Tim Olson)
8. 11:30 AM - Re: New Toy - Chelton Screenshots (Tim Olson)
9. 11:33 AM - [ eanderson@carolina.rr.com ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares)
10. 11:34 AM - Looking for Engine (Steve Cooper)
11. 11:42 AM - Rear tie-down location (Tim Olson)
12. 12:10 PM - Re: Skybolt Cowling Fastener kit (Dan Checkoway)
13. 12:44 PM - Wanted: 3/32 clecos (Albert Gardner)
14. 02:03 PM - Re: Skybolt Cowling Fastener kit (Tim Olson)
15. 04:17 PM - Re: Skybolt Cowling Fastener kit (Gary Specketer)
16. 04:17 PM - Re: SB wing kit and impending builder interuptus (Bill and Tami Britton)
17. 10:33 PM - Re: Skybolt Cowling Fastener kit (Mark Chamberlain)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly Posting] |
DNA: do not archive
--> RV10-List message posted by: dralle@matronics.com
Dear Lister,
Please read over the RV10-List Usage Guidelines below. The complete
RV10-List FAQ including these Usage Guidelines can be found at the
following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/RV10-List.FAQ.html
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
******************************************************************************
RV10-List Usage Guidelines
******************************************************************************
The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the RV10-List.
You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules therein.
Failure to use the RV10-List in the manner described below may result
in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
RV10-List Policy Statement
The purpose of the RV10-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals
are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie
among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these goals
requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of
the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been established:
- Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not submit
posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
- THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be
relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T send it.
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that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be concise and
terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
responses.
- Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address,
aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line
about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid
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easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the
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quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive
can not be overstated!
- When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT
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- DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something
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agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent
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- When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to
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polite and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally attack
other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously
controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that
will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
-------
[This is an automated posting.]
Message 2
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| Subject: | Skybolt Cowling Fastener kit |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
When I was at Stein's a couple days ago, I noticed the camloc fasteners
on one of his planes. I'd been kind of skeptical about the hinge
system used to install the canopy, and Stein confirmed that yes,
there are issues.
* Hinge pins can work their way out and into the prop on the
horizontal pin.
* eyelits will eventually break off the lower hinge sections.
* It's inconvenient to get inside the cowl with your hands and
pull out those pins and it isn't that easy to get them back in.
The hinge pin system does look nice though, as there's not much
exposed and it's real smooth.
My Sundowner had/has camlocs on the cowl, and at least for
the top cowl cover, I can't imagine an easier way to do things.
At minimum, I intend to put camlocs or screws and nutplates on
the top cowl. Screws would be cheaper, but you'll replace screws
and maybe some nutplates over time, as it will be hard to keep from
chewing up screwheads.
I'm seriously considering the camloc kit from Skybolt.
http://www.skybolt.com/store/ProductDetail.asp?ProductID=502
I know Jesse said they put screws on top and hinge on bottom.
Anyone else do anything different so far? This skybolt kit,
although more money, would definitely make popping the top cover
a very quick job. I can have my sundowner top off in about 90
seconds.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Message 3
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| Subject: | Skybolt Cowling Fastener kit |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer" <speckter@comcast.net>
I have had the hinges on my aircraft cowl for the last 18 years. I
generally like them, both for the looks and the ease of removal. They
are however, a bugger to get fit right the first time and for the first
few hours of flight until everything gets settled in. I have not had
the hinges work themselves out. You lock them in with either a screw or
hook it around the front lip on the cowel. I have not had any eyeltes
break off. I have had the paint over the rivets used to secure the
hinges to the cowel pop off after 5 years of usage. I was able to solve
that by putting a thin (4 oz) cloth and fiberglass over the row of
rivets.
Some more imput for your consideration.
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Skybolt Cowling Fastener kit
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
When I was at Stein's a couple days ago, I noticed the camloc fasteners
on one of his planes. I'd been kind of skeptical about the hinge system
used to install the canopy, and Stein confirmed that yes, there are
issues.
* Hinge pins can work their way out and into the prop on the horizontal
pin.
* eyelits will eventually break off the lower hinge sections.
* It's inconvenient to get inside the cowl with your hands and pull out
those pins and it isn't that easy to get them back in.
The hinge pin system does look nice though, as there's not much exposed
and it's real smooth.
My Sundowner had/has camlocs on the cowl, and at least for
the top cowl cover, I can't imagine an easier way to do things. At
minimum, I intend to put camlocs or screws and nutplates on the top
cowl. Screws would be cheaper, but you'll replace screws and maybe some
nutplates over time, as it will be hard to keep from chewing up
screwheads.
I'm seriously considering the camloc kit from Skybolt.
http://www.skybolt.com/store/ProductDetail.asp?ProductID=502
I know Jesse said they put screws on top and hinge on bottom. Anyone
else do anything different so far? This skybolt kit, although more
money, would definitely make popping the top cover a very quick job. I
can have my sundowner top off in about 90 seconds.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Skybolt Cowling Fastener kit |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> * Hinge pins can work their way out and into the prop on the
> horizontal pin.
Which is why you build some sort of retainer in at the front.
> * eyelits will eventually break off the lower hinge sections.
Which is why you use screws & nutplates on the bottom.
> * It's inconvenient to get inside the cowl with your hands and
> pull out those pins and it isn't that easy to get them back in.
Are you speaking from experience? The only pin that is even remotely
difficult is the one going from the oil door to the right side, along the
top firewall flange. And what I've seen a lot of people do is just have the
top hinges join in the center, and have a little two-screw panel (flush, of
course), which is removed to expose the hinges. Everything can be done from
the exterior that way.
Note that if you use camloc fasteners, you might see "bulging" or
"scalloping" between fasteners, since the air has got to escape
somehow...and it's hot air no less. I've spoken to more than one builder
whose cowl took a permanent "form" to the heated scalloping, and they said
they'd go with hinges next time. Not saying that's the case for everybody,
just the ones I've spoken to.
Hinges are really cheap, trivial to build in, and don't take any longer to
insert/remove than camlocs. Camlocs are expensive, more difficult to build
in, but are really easy to deal with -- once installed. Your mileage may
vary.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 5
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| Subject: | weight and balance |
I also modified the battery box to accept two 680s and an extra contactor. I just
used the Jeppesen Flitestar program to calculate some WBs. Using the finishing
kit number of approx. 1615 pounds an 106 cg, I input various scenarios. I
assumed an extra 6 pounds at 190" for the different battery arrangement. One thing
becomes apparent almost immediately. The RV10 has the same "problem" as the
Bonanza. The CG moves aft with fuel burn. It appears to be about .50-.75" going
from full tanks to minimum fuel of about 5 gal. So initial loading at takeoff
at the aft limit may mean landing aft of the limit and the resultant light
pitch forces. When landing at the aft limit keep the speed up until the flare.
The extra battery matters almost nothing; less than .25" in the CG. Using 4
170 pounders and 50 pounds of baggage and full fuel results in a loading of about
115" CG (116.24" limit) at takeoff. A four hour trip at 12 gal/hour results
in a landing CG of about 116". Put the ladies in the back; Lower fuel loads
do nothing to avert the move aft of the CG due to burn.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: New Toy - Chelton Screenshots |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark & Kelly" <eyedocs1@swbell.net>
Tim,
Well, now you've got my heart pumping! Question, on the first PFD picture
(RV200507010112.jpg), it looks like the magenta path line is rising in
space. Is this my imagination, or does the course line actually have the
proper height perspective above ground like the HITS presentation? The
colors on the moving map are much better. The others were too dark.
Thanks,
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Subject: RV10-List: New Toy - Chelton Screenshots
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Well, I finally found the perfect Levitra/viagara substitute for
> pilots.....yesterday I went and picked up one of my 3 Chelton
> screens!!
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/panel/20050702/index.html
>
> I got it powered up by a 2.75A 12V Radio Shack supply, and today I
> interfaced it with a keyboard. I was able to boot it up, and
> even update the operating software to version 5.0C from 5.0B.
> The Terrain now looks far better than before. For those who
> remember the blacks and browns of the terrain, they're now much
> more vivid and pretty. I took some awful crappy pictures while
> I was playing with it tonight so you could see some of the screens.
> It's even better than the training DVD and demo video shows.
> Also, after playing with it, I can see that my primary Nav/Com
> is going to be my SL-30, not the GNS-480.....let me tell you that
> this thing is SLICK! That GNS-480's looking mighty weak compared
> to this thing. Also (and please don't be offended or take it
> personally if you bought GRT stuff), I was able to hold in my
> hands, side by side, a Chelton and GRT screen. Let me say
> that there is really no comparison. The manufacturing quality
> is much better on the Chelton, and you can tell they take better
> care during assembly. The screen is much nicer looking, especially
> the lighted and labeled buttons. The Chelton weighs a little more,
> but you can tell you're getting some substantial power there.
> I think it uses a 650Mhz or so Celeron processor. When you power
> them on, the graphics are also no comparison. That Chelton blows
> the doors of the GRT. I'm extremely glad I went this way, and
> if I should have my snip job fail, I'll name my next kid Stein,
> in thanks for his taking the time to educate me as to the benefits
> of this beautiful system. Some of the stuff from Stark is a little
> delayed in coming in so far, but we're still planning to have my
> panel on display at OSH at booth 2030 in Hanger B (SteinAir's Booth).
> My engine will also be at Aerosport....look for the Gold and Chrome
> IO-540.
>
> I also took a minute to take some photos of something else I think
> I forgot to post a long time ago. If you remember back in about
> October there was a hand carved RV-10 model on Ebay that took
> what seemed like forever to sell. Turns out my dad bought it
> back then, and gave it to me for my birthday later last year.
> It was a great surprise. I'm going to try to talk to the guy
> who made it and see if he'll repaint it with my paint scheme, now
> that I have it picked out.
>
> Here are some photos of that:
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/misc/index.html
>
> Also, I added some additional photos of my fuel lines, and
> some of that junk in the fuselage section.
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050702/index.html
>
> Tim
>
> --
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Skybolt Cowling Fastener kit |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Dan Checkoway wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>>* Hinge pins can work their way out and into the prop on the
>>horizontal pin.
>
>
> Which is why you build some sort of retainer in at the front.
>
>
>>* eyelits will eventually break off the lower hinge sections.
>
>
> Which is why you use screws & nutplates on the bottom.
>
>
>>* It's inconvenient to get inside the cowl with your hands and
>>pull out those pins and it isn't that easy to get them back in.
>
>
> Are you speaking from experience? The only pin that is even remotely
> difficult is the one going from the oil door to the right side, along the
> top firewall flange. And what I've seen a lot of people do is just have the
> top hinges join in the center, and have a little two-screw panel (flush, of
> course), which is removed to expose the hinges. Everything can be done from
> the exterior that way.
>
No, I'm not speaking from experience, but Stein did show me and allow
us to reach in thru the oil door where the pin on the firewall
gets pulled out and I can easily see how it wouldn't be as fun as
quick 1/4 turn camlocs. That's a great trick with having the
little removable panel. Would be a big improvement I think.
> Note that if you use camloc fasteners, you might see "bulging" or
> "scalloping" between fasteners, since the air has got to escape
> somehow...and it's hot air no less. I've spoken to more than one builder
> whose cowl took a permanent "form" to the heated scalloping, and they said
> they'd go with hinges next time. Not saying that's the case for everybody,
> just the ones I've spoken to.
>
I wonder if starting with a good fit would prevent that?
Or perhaps a thin coat of RTV inside the seam.
> Hinges are really cheap, trivial to build in, and don't take any longer to
> insert/remove than camlocs. Camlocs are expensive, more difficult to build
> in, but are really easy to deal with -- once installed. Your mileage may
> vary.
>
Yep, the camlocs would definitely be a much more expensive solution.
I think they're great from what I've seen, but it's all I've ever
used.
Tim
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: New Toy - Chelton Screenshots |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Hey Mark,
That magenta line is a pointer that is showing you which way to
turn when it has an ILS signal. Look to the right of it
and you'll see the VNAV glideslope indicator..you can tell
it's not on glideslope perfectly. After having it shoot
a couple of approaches, I think it actually is very readable....I
was worried the glideslope display wouldn't look so good, but
it's fantastic. Once you get on the approach, the HITS boxes
will also be visible, so you get that guidance too. You're
right about the moving map colors...they're fantastic.
Release 6.0 is coming out very soon and I hear that's got
many more improvements. Can't wait to see that. I think it's
only a couple weeks away possibly.
Tim
Mark & Kelly wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark & Kelly" <eyedocs1@swbell.net>
>
> Tim,
>
> Well, now you've got my heart pumping! Question, on the first PFD
> picture (RV200507010112.jpg), it looks like the magenta path line is
> rising in space. Is this my imagination, or does the course line
> actually have the proper height perspective above ground like the HITS
> presentation? The colors on the moving map are much better. The
> others were too dark.
>
> Thanks,
> Mark
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> To: "RV10" <RV10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, July 02, 2005 12:55 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: New Toy - Chelton Screenshots
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>> Well, I finally found the perfect Levitra/viagara substitute for
>> pilots.....yesterday I went and picked up one of my 3 Chelton
>> screens!!
>>
>> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/panel/20050702/index.html
>>
>> I got it powered up by a 2.75A 12V Radio Shack supply, and today I
>> interfaced it with a keyboard. I was able to boot it up, and
>> even update the operating software to version 5.0C from 5.0B.
>> The Terrain now looks far better than before. For those who
>> remember the blacks and browns of the terrain, they're now much
>> more vivid and pretty. I took some awful crappy pictures while
>> I was playing with it tonight so you could see some of the screens.
>> It's even better than the training DVD and demo video shows.
>> Also, after playing with it, I can see that my primary Nav/Com
>> is going to be my SL-30, not the GNS-480.....let me tell you that
>> this thing is SLICK! That GNS-480's looking mighty weak compared
>> to this thing. Also (and please don't be offended or take it
>> personally if you bought GRT stuff), I was able to hold in my
>> hands, side by side, a Chelton and GRT screen. Let me say
>> that there is really no comparison. The manufacturing quality
>> is much better on the Chelton, and you can tell they take better
>> care during assembly. The screen is much nicer looking, especially
>> the lighted and labeled buttons. The Chelton weighs a little more,
>> but you can tell you're getting some substantial power there.
>> I think it uses a 650Mhz or so Celeron processor. When you power
>> them on, the graphics are also no comparison. That Chelton blows
>> the doors of the GRT. I'm extremely glad I went this way, and
>> if I should have my snip job fail, I'll name my next kid Stein,
>> in thanks for his taking the time to educate me as to the benefits
>> of this beautiful system. Some of the stuff from Stark is a little
>> delayed in coming in so far, but we're still planning to have my
>> panel on display at OSH at booth 2030 in Hanger B (SteinAir's Booth).
>> My engine will also be at Aerosport....look for the Gold and Chrome
>> IO-540.
>>
>> I also took a minute to take some photos of something else I think
>> I forgot to post a long time ago. If you remember back in about
>> October there was a hand carved RV-10 model on Ebay that took
>> what seemed like forever to sell. Turns out my dad bought it
>> back then, and gave it to me for my birthday later last year.
>> It was a great surprise. I'm going to try to talk to the guy
>> who made it and see if he'll repaint it with my paint scheme, now
>> that I have it picked out.
>>
>> Here are some photos of that:
>> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/misc/index.html
>>
>> Also, I added some additional photos of my fuel lines, and
>> some of that junk in the fuselage section.
>> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050702/index.html
>>
>> Tim
>>
>> --
>>
>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>> Current project: Fuselage
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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|
Available!
--> RV10-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: eanderson@carolina.rr.com <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Lists: RV-List,RV3-List,RV4-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV9-List,RV10-List
Subject: Brake Line Failure
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/eanderson@carolina.rr.com.07.02.2005/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures@matronics.com
Message 10
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| Subject: | Looking for Engine |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Steve Cooper <sportflyer@emcity.net>
looking for used Rotax 912/912S...cash buyer.
sportflyer@emcity.net
Message 11
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| Subject: | Rear tie-down location |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
the rear tie-down bracket is about 167" aft of the main spar.
The bnulkhead just in front of that area is 6.5" forward of
it. This should help with that CG calculating.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Skybolt Cowling Fastener kit |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> > Note that if you use camloc fasteners, you might see "bulging" or
> > "scalloping" between fasteners, since the air has got to escape
> > somehow...and it's hot air no less. I've spoken to more than one
builder
> > whose cowl took a permanent "form" to the heated scalloping, and they
said
> > they'd go with hinges next time. Not saying that's the case for
everybody,
> > just the ones I've spoken to.
>
> I wonder if starting with a good fit would prevent that?
> Or perhaps a thin coat of RTV inside the seam.
I don't see how RTV would counteract the cowl flange bulging. The point is
that with heat, the material expands. If you have a camloc every 4" or
whatever, when you add hot, pressurized air to the mix, the material will
bulge between fasteners. Since you're talking about heating fiberglass, the
cowl may "take a set" in that shape.
I suppose a potential "solution" would be to install stiffeners on the cowl
flange between camlocs, in order to keep it from bulging in between. You'd
want to do that before you fly, before the material takes a set in the
scalloped form.
Or you could just use hinges like Van's does on their planes. ;-)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 13
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| Subject: | Wanted: 3/32 clecos |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud@adelphia.net>
I'm just starting a RV-10 kit and find I need additional silver clecos. If
anyone has 1 or 2 hundred for sale, I'm interested.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A N872RV
Yuma, AZ
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Skybolt Cowling Fastener kit |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I don't see how RTV would counteract the cowl flange bulging. The point is
> that with heat, the material expands. If you have a camloc every 4" or
> whatever, when you add hot, pressurized air to the mix, the material will
> bulge between fasteners. Since you're talking about heating fiberglass, the
> cowl may "take a set" in that shape.
>
The only point was, with a little RTV, maybe the hot air wouldn't leak
past, so then it wouldn't flow out and be so tough on the
material.....kind of like if you have an exhaust flange leak, it'll
erode the metal, but in this case, the escaping hot air would flow
over more of the seam heating the whole thing up. I'd think that
if you had a reasonably tight fit, this bulging would be minimal.
Just a guess. Actually, on the install I saw of the camlocs on
one of those RV's, there was a very good sized aluminum strip
to attach the inner camloc half to, and that would not at all
bow outwards, so only the outer shell of the canopy would have
any potential for that.
If this bowing out was an extremely large and common problem,
I'd think we'd have heard about it a lot more. There are just
too many planes flying around with camlocs and I haven't heard
of this problem until you mentioned it. Not that I doubt it's
possibility, just that it might be a not so common thing.
> I suppose a potential "solution" would be to install stiffeners on the cowl
> flange between camlocs, in order to keep it from bulging in between. You'd
> want to do that before you fly, before the material takes a set in the
> scalloped form.
>
> Or you could just use hinges like Van's does on their planes. ;-)
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
do not archive
Message 15
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| Subject: | Skybolt Cowling Fastener kit |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer" <speckter@comcast.net>
Rest assured that the problem exists. I had camlocks on the cowl on the
Glasair III on only the section where it attaches to the base of the
windshield. I got enough leakage that it would keep ice from forming on
the windscreen when I encountered icing conditions one day. While in
this case it was a good thing, I have seen it on many homebuilts and it
is so easy to solve.
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Skybolt Cowling Fastener kit
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I don't see how RTV would counteract the cowl flange bulging. The
> point is that with heat, the material expands. If you have a camloc
> every 4" or whatever, when you add hot, pressurized air to the mix,
> the material will bulge between fasteners. Since you're talking about
> heating fiberglass, the cowl may "take a set" in that shape.
>
The only point was, with a little RTV, maybe the hot air wouldn't leak
past, so then it wouldn't flow out and be so tough on the
material.....kind of like if you have an exhaust flange leak, it'll
erode the metal, but in this case, the escaping hot air would flow over
more of the seam heating the whole thing up. I'd think that if you had
a reasonably tight fit, this bulging would be minimal. Just a guess.
Actually, on the install I saw of the camlocs on one of those RV's,
there was a very good sized aluminum strip to attach the inner camloc
half to, and that would not at all bow outwards, so only the outer shell
of the canopy would have any potential for that.
If this bowing out was an extremely large and common problem, I'd think
we'd have heard about it a lot more. There are just too many planes
flying around with camlocs and I haven't heard of this problem until you
mentioned it. Not that I doubt it's possibility, just that it might be
a not so common thing.
> I suppose a potential "solution" would be to install stiffeners on the
> cowl flange between camlocs, in order to keep it from bulging in
> between. You'd want to do that before you fly, before the material
> takes a set in the scalloped form.
>
> Or you could just use hinges like Van's does on their planes. ;-)
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
do not archive
Message 16
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spamd4.ruraltel.net
* -4.0 RCVD_FROM_NEXTECH_5 Message came from 204.96.144-152.x network
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| Subject: | Re: SB wing kit and impending builder interuptus |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william@gbta.net>
Deems, I ordered my SB wing kit with the fuel senders (no lights yet) the
last day of march to beat the price increase. I am only starting on the
elevators now so It'll be quite a while before I need the wing. I would be
willing to trade shipment dates with you if you will cover the extra cost of
the price increase. If you are interested contact me privately at
william@gbta.net and we'll see if we can work something out.
BTW: I have not talked to Vans lately about the delivery date but I did
receive a letter from them about 1 1/2 months ago stating that the estimated
delivery date was July 10-12.
Let me know if you are interested
Bill Britton
Ready to start Elevators!!!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Subject: RV10-List: SB wing kit and impending builder interuptus
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>
> I recently saw a post that mentioned someone had recently ordered their
> wings and was given a ship date of early Aug (8?) which is much sooner
> than the 14-15 weeks posted on their web site. I just got off the phone
> with Van's and was told that 14-15 weeks IS the current lead time for
> wing kits!. I'm making progress at a rate that's going to have me ready
> for my next kit in 6-7 weeks. I spoke with builder support about
> ordering the fuse kit which only has an 8 week lead time, but they
> informed me that the centersection spar is required for the fuse kit!
> and while you could make some progress without it, you'd obviously be
> limited at some point. Apparently, it is the wing spars that are
> causing the 14-15 week lead times.
>
> So:
> Anybody out there with a SB wing kit delivery position that wants to
> delay delivery that would be willing to trade 'positions'? or alternately:
>
> How much work (hours) can you complete on the SB Fuse without having the
> spar available? I'm averaging 35-40 hours per week, wondering if there's
> enough work to keep busy until the spars/wings are available?
>
> Deems Davis
>
> #406
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Skybolt Cowling Fastener kit |
<000f01c57f1e$5b2e13e0$6400a8c0@inspinc.ad> <42C6DC3C.1000608@MyRV10.com>
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer@verizon.net>
I have installed the skybolt camlocs on my cowl and I see what Dan is
talking about. Most of the installation is very tight, but I do have a few
areas between fasteners that have a slight buldge. I was very careful to
have the fit as tight as possible before drilling the final hole size for
the stud and receptacle. The hinge pins have a constant grip around the
perimeter of the cowl while there is really nothing between the fasteners.
At this point I am committed to the camlocs. It is not as clean a look, but
I have enjoyed the easy operation already. I hope I don't encounter the
other problems Dan mentioned. Just thought I'd throw in my two cents. Mark
(40016)
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