Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:42 AM - Reaming question (John Jessen)
2. 01:52 AM - Re: F1069 Skins (terry doe)
3. 04:43 AM - Re: Real time and cost to build? From a new subscriber (Comcast)
4. 05:43 AM - Re: Reaming question (bob.kaufmann)
5. 06:36 AM - Re: Real time and cost to build? From a new subscriber (Jeff)
6. 06:41 AM - Re: Reaming question (LessDragProd@aol.com)
7. 06:50 AM - Re: Wing Tips Don't Line Up (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
8. 07:13 AM - Very minor parts shortage (Tim Olson)
9. 08:06 AM - Re: Very minor parts shortage (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
10. 08:54 AM - Re: Very minor parts shortage (Tim Olson)
11. 08:56 AM - Re: Reaming question (Darton Steve)
12. 09:24 AM - Re: Reaming question (c)
13. 09:37 AM - Re: Reaming question (John Jessen)
14. 09:41 AM - Re: Reaming question (John Jessen)
15. 10:18 AM - Re: Reaming question (linn walters)
16. 11:17 AM - Re: Reaming question (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
17. 11:55 AM - Counter sinking - just how much really to get a good fit (John Jessen)
18. 11:56 AM - Re: Very minor parts shortage (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
19. 12:02 PM - Re: Reaming question (John Jessen)
20. 12:02 PM - Re: Wing Tips Don't Line Up (Mike Kraus)
21. 01:56 PM - Re: Wing order + components (James Ochs)
22. 03:14 PM - Re: Wing order + components (Rick)
23. 03:14 PM - Re: Very minor parts shortage (Jim Wade)
24. 03:18 PM - Re: Counter sinking - just how much really to get a good (Rick)
25. 03:20 PM - Re: Wing order + components (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
26. 03:47 PM - Re: Aileron trim (Nikolaos Napoli)
27. 03:57 PM - Re: Wing order + components (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
28. 04:12 PM - Re: Wing order + components (Tim Olson)
29. 04:23 PM - Re: Aileron trim (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
30. 05:03 PM - For your bookshelf (Mark Grieve)
31. 06:31 PM - Re: Wing order + components (linn walters)
32. 07:21 PM - Re: Wing order + components (Jim Combs)
33. 07:29 PM - RV-10 Door Incident (rv10builder)
34. 07:47 PM - Re: Wing order + components (linn walters)
35. 07:50 PM - Re: RV-10 Door Incident (linn walters)
36. 07:55 PM - Re: tail light LED combo (Robert G. Wright)
37. 08:06 PM - Re: RV-10 Door Incident (LIKE2LOOP@aol.com)
38. 08:22 PM - Elevator horn (Robert G. Wright)
39. 08:29 PM - rv10 fuel senders (L Aune)
40. 08:59 PM - Re: Reaming question (L Aune)
41. 10:03 PM - Re: Wing order + components (Werner Schneider)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Reaming question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
I looked at the past posts on reaming, but wanted to try this question out
on the group anyway.
Working on the HS and am now at the stage of deburring all my reamed holes.
Do I need to debur if using a reamer? I'm doing so, and I don't really mind
it since I have the Cogsdill and it goes fast, but am wondering if it's
necessary. Has anyone gotten out a magnifying glass and taken a careful
look? Any thoughts?
John Jessen
40328 HS
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Thanks Bob i'll give it a go
Terry
----- Original Message -----
From: Condrey, Bob (US SSA)
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 9:54 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: F1069 Skins
Terry,
I went through the same thing. I posted the solution over on the old Yahoo Group
list but am reposting here for archive purposes. I've also asked Tim to
put in his building tips area for future slow builders. Of course, now that he's
got paint on his plane it might not be a priority :)
Bob #40105
> First the problem:
> The picture on page 29-11 illustrates how to roll the forward
> fuselage skins. It involves clamping a piece of wood to a
workbench,
> clamping a couple of "construction angles" to the skin and then
> rolling the skin. Finally, while holding the skin in a "rolled
> state" you give a sharp whack with a rubber mallet.
>
> Here's a couple of hints:
> 1) The angles are shown held to the skins with vice grips (the kind
> that form a "C"). There really isn't much of the angle to grab
> onto. It turns out to be MUCH easier if you use the kind without
> the "pads". C clamps and other methods of holding the angles to
the
> skin are difficult at best. You either don't have enough surface
to
> clamp or there won't be clearance while rolling. The exception is
at
> the small end of the "cone" - there is a small C clamp there
holding
> the ends of the construction angles together.
>
> 2) Use actual C clamps to hold the skin and wood form down to the
> workbench. I was originally using the "quick grip" type of sliding
> clamps. You get a lot more clamping force with C clamps.
>
> I spent a long time last night working on the first forward skin
and
> the result was poor. Making the above two changes allowed me to do
> the other side in only about 15-20 minutes! I then reclamped the
> first skin and "touched it up".
>
> In the final analysis the picture on 29-11 is very good. If you do
> it EXACTLY like it shows without tool substitutions it will turn
out
> great. Using the vice grips without the pads makes it even
easier!
> Do yourself a favor - if you don't have the right clamps, go get
them
> before starting!
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of terry doe
Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2005 4:30 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: F1069 Skins
Can anyone tell me how they bent the roll in the F1069 fwd side skins
I've tried vans way but the skin thickness wont allow it to roll
Terry 40034
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
tests=ALL_TRUSTED: -2.4,HTML_50_60: 1.053,HTML_MESSAGE: 0.001,
HTML_SHOUTING3: 0.266,SARE_HTML_MANY_BR05: 1.666,SARE_HTML_MANY_BR10: 1.326,
SARE_RECV_ADDR: 0.027
| Subject: | Re: Real time and cost to build? From a new subscriber |
Alright, if we're gonna dream, let's dream big
"Yes, I love airplaines, my name is , you can pilot my de militarized FA-18, and
I'll support you completely while you build the planeS of your dreams!"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@avidyne.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Real time and cost to build? From a new subscriber
How about:
Result:
"Yes, I love airplanes. My name is Angelina Jolie and I own a Cirrus . . ."
fall down on your knees and worship
TDT
40025
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Real time and cost to build? From a new subscriber
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Pre-marriage screening for pilots.
"Hey, do you like airplanes?....How'd you like to go for
a flight in a small plane?"
Result:
"Yes, I love airplanes, cool, when can we go....I think we
should go see the mountains" Marry the chick
"No, them things scare the crap out of me. Can't
we try shuffleboard instead?" Ditch the witch
;)
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Jesse Saint wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>
> Wait a second! That's a pretty sick to suggest choosing an airplane over a
> wife. If you do start getting AIDS, then get rid of the source of the
> problem (the airplane) not the victim of the problem (the wife).
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse@itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
> Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2005 12:27 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Real time and cost to build? From a new subscriber
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>
> Randy forgot one last thing,
>
> Get a good divorce lawyer unless you are single or have a great spouse that
> will totally understand and support you in the process. I highly suggest
> reading Dan Checkoway's "The married dudes guide to aircraft building". Link
> is pasted below. I thank my better half on a daily basis for understanding
> this obsession, which it will become, trust me.
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/wife.html
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
> Fuselage
>
>
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Reaming question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
I'm reaming, and haven't used a glass. Doing the reaming still goes very
and cogdill will save a lot. Bob K 40125 Forward fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RV10-List: Reaming question
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
I looked at the past posts on reaming, but wanted to try this question out
on the group anyway.
Working on the HS and am now at the stage of deburring all my reamed holes.
Do I need to debur if using a reamer? I'm doing so, and I don't really mind
it since I have the Cogsdill and it goes fast, but am wondering if it's
necessary. Has anyone gotten out a magnifying glass and taken a careful
look? Any thoughts?
John Jessen
40328 HS
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Real time and cost to build? From a new subscriber |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jeff" <jdalton77@comcast.net>
I'm surprised she can fit all her adopted children in a Cirrus.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Real time and cost to build? From a new subscriber
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Funny you should say that. I keep telling my wife that if she
> gets too crazy I'll ditch her for Angelina so I can fly her Cirrus.
> But, I couldn't do that anymore...now that Brad's taking lessons,
> he's a pilot too. Couldn't do such a thing to a pilot. ;)
> All in good fun.
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
>> How about: Result:
>> "Yes, I love airplanes. My name is Angelina Jolie and I own a Cirrus .
>> . ."
>> = fall down on your knees and worship
>> TDT
>> 40025
>>
>> ________________________________
>>
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Tim Olson
>> Sent: Sun 10/9/2005 12:02 AM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Real time and cost to build? From a new
>> subscriber
>>
>>
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>> Pre-marriage screening for pilots.
>>
>> "Hey, do you like airplanes?....How'd you like to go for
>> a flight in a small plane?"
>>
>> Result:
>>
>> "Yes, I love airplanes, cool, when can we go....I think we
>> should go see the mountains" = Marry the chick
>>
>> "No, them things scare the crap out of me. Can't
>> we try shuffleboard instead?" = Ditch the witch
>>
>> ;)
>>
>>
>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>>
>>
>> Jesse Saint wrote:
>>
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>>>
>>>Wait a second! That's a pretty sick to suggest choosing an airplane over
>>>a
>>>wife. If you do start getting AIDS, then get rid of the source of the
>>>problem (the airplane) not the victim of the problem (the wife).
>>>
>>>Jesse Saint
>>>I-TEC, Inc.
>>>jesse@itecusa.org
>>>www.itecusa.org
>>>W: 352-465-4545
>>>C: 352-427-0285
>>>F: 815-377-3694
>>>
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
>>>Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2005 12:27 PM
>>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Real time and cost to build? From a new
>>>subscriber
>>>
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>>>
>>>Randy forgot one last thing,
>>>
>>>Get a good divorce lawyer unless you are single or have a great spouse
>>>that
>>>will totally understand and support you in the process. I highly suggest
>>>reading Dan Checkoway's "The married dudes guide to aircraft building".
>>>Link
>>>is pasted below. I thank my better half on a daily basis for
>>>understanding
>>>this obsession, which it will become, trust me.
>>>
>>>http://www.rvproject.com/wife.html
>>>
>>>Rick S.
>>>40185
>>>Fuselage
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ====================================
>> ====================================
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Reaming question |
FWIW, no sharp edges.
A 0.010 edge break is a "standard". This would apply to the edge of a part,
or the edge of a hole.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 10/11/2005 12:43:42 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
jjessen@rcn.com writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
I looked at the past posts on reaming, but wanted to try this question out
on the group anyway.
Working on the HS and am now at the stage of deburring all my reamed holes.
Do I need to debur if using a reamer? I'm doing so, and I don't really mind
it since I have the Cogsdill and it goes fast, but am wondering if it's
necessary. Has anyone gotten out a magnifying glass and taken a careful
look? Any thoughts?
John Jessen
40328 HS
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Wing Tips Don't Line Up |
I roughly checked my wingtip the other night and they are =BC" too short.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
CDNI Principal Engineer
Sprint PCS
16020 West 113th Street
Lenexa, KS 66219
Mailstop KSLNXK0101
(913) 859-1414 (Office)
(913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
(913) 859-1234 (Fax)
Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Testement
Subject: RV10-List: Wing Tips Don't Line Up
I am attaching my wing tips and have all of the nutplates complete on one and the
other drilled and clecoed. Neither of the wing tips line up with the ailerons
in neutral position. I have clamped the ailerons in line with the flaps in
full up position. The trailing edge of the right wing tip is about 1/2" lower
than the trailing edge of the aileron. The trailing edge of the left wing tip
is about 1/4" higher than the aileron.
The trailing edges of the wing tips are about 1/4" - 3/8" too long. I can trim
them without breaking the trailing edge joint.
I cannot see any simple way of bending/aligning the wing tips except for perhaps
cutting the trailing edge in half and reattaching them while trying to twist
them into alignment. I would love to hear what others have done to deal with
this. I really hope it is not bad parts cause I have put a lot of hours into these
wingtips.
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Working on QB Wing Tips
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Very minor parts shortage |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I have slow wings, QB fuse. Last week when I went to do my wing root
fairings I found that I was around 40 K1100-08 nutplates short.
I had just closed my wings, and thus had also just installed
all of them on the wings and access panels, having just freshly
opened those hardware bags. Gus verified that the quantity listed in
the various kits does not add up, and he sent me 40 more, which
arrived very very quickly I must say, by USPS.
If you're in the same postion as me, with slow wings, and QB fuse,
you should check your count and get some when you talk to them
next. I think the quantity supplied with the fuse kit was something
like 22. Required are at least 9 on each bottom, 12 on each top, plus
I think 7 around the nose. I think there were a few others, too.
On a side note, does anyone who's completed the fuse know what's up
with the one nutplate that is predrilled that goes on the bottom
skin in the middle of the center section, where the wing spar goes?
It sure seems like this nutplate, if installed, would scrape
the spar. Gus seemed to think it may have been a set of holes that
was drilled by accident that won't be used. Just looking
for confirmation. I left mine empty.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Very minor parts shortage |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
Tim I have slow build fuse and just riveted on these nutplates on the
bottom center skin this weekend. There are 9 nutplates on the bottom
center skin. One is aft of the rear spar attachment and then the next
one is forward of the rear spar with the last one between the center
section main spars. I beliebe the one you are referring to is right at
the rear spar. My instruction indicate that no nutplate is to be
installed in this position and my skin does not even have the holes for
it anyway. I think the earlier bottom skins had this drilled, but the
newer ones like mine do not.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
CDNI Principal Engineer
Sprint PCS
16020 West 113th Street
Lenexa, KS 66219
Mailstop KSLNXK0101
(913) 859-1414 (Office)
(913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
(913) 859-1234 (Fax)
Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Very minor parts shortage
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I have slow wings, QB fuse. Last week when I went to do my wing root
fairings I found that I was around 40 K1100-08 nutplates short.
I had just closed my wings, and thus had also just installed
all of them on the wings and access panels, having just freshly
opened those hardware bags. Gus verified that the quantity listed in
the various kits does not add up, and he sent me 40 more, which
arrived very very quickly I must say, by USPS.
If you're in the same postion as me, with slow wings, and QB fuse,
you should check your count and get some when you talk to them
next. I think the quantity supplied with the fuse kit was something
like 22. Required are at least 9 on each bottom, 12 on each top, plus
I think 7 around the nose. I think there were a few others, too.
On a side note, does anyone who's completed the fuse know what's up
with the one nutplate that is predrilled that goes on the bottom
skin in the middle of the center section, where the wing spar goes?
It sure seems like this nutplate, if installed, would scrape
the spar. Gus seemed to think it may have been a set of holes that
was drilled by accident that won't be used. Just looking
for confirmation. I left mine empty.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Very minor parts shortage |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Howdy Ray, Thanks for the comment. I did miss the note to
"Do not install nutplate..." on page 44-2 Figure 1.
Maybe that's why that one was harder to rivet in place. ;)
The nutplate that I'm worried about is the one that goes
between the center sections F1004A and F1004B (or F & H).
Right exactly where the main spar goes. Do you really
put one in that location? I looked at it with the wings
on and there's almost no room for a nutplate or screw to come
out the nutplate. But, the fairing is punched there.
I just wanted to verify that the wings won't actually hit it.
Since I did install one where I shouldn't have, I can easily
just drill that one out. I'm betting, now that I look
at it, that the reason for no nutplate in that 2nd to the
last space is because once you put the bolt in for your
flap linkage, I bet there would be interference as the flaps
moved...or something like that. Anyway, that's an easy fix.
Another funny thing is, that front skin support, F1099G-L...
that one doesn't seem to get any form of attachment to the skin.
Not only that, but on mine I don't think the skin actually even
came up high enough to touch it. It must just be there to
prevent some massive cave-in of the fairing.
All of this is on page 44-2.
Tim
Doerr, Ray R [NTK] wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
>
> Tim I have slow build fuse and just riveted on these nutplates on the
> bottom center skin this weekend. There are 9 nutplates on the bottom
> center skin. One is aft of the rear spar attachment and then the next
> one is forward of the rear spar with the last one between the center
> section main spars. I beliebe the one you are referring to is right at
> the rear spar. My instruction indicate that no nutplate is to be
> installed in this position and my skin does not even have the holes for
> it anyway. I think the earlier bottom skins had this drilled, but the
> newer ones like mine do not.
>
>
>
> Thank You
> Ray Doerr
> CDNI Principal Engineer
> Sprint PCS
> 16020 West 113th Street
> Lenexa, KS 66219
> Mailstop KSLNXK0101
> (913) 859-1414 (Office)
> (913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
> (913) 859-1234 (Fax)
> Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 9:13 AM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: Very minor parts shortage
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I have slow wings, QB fuse. Last week when I went to do my wing root
> fairings I found that I was around 40 K1100-08 nutplates short.
> I had just closed my wings, and thus had also just installed
> all of them on the wings and access panels, having just freshly
> opened those hardware bags. Gus verified that the quantity listed in
> the various kits does not add up, and he sent me 40 more, which
> arrived very very quickly I must say, by USPS.
> If you're in the same postion as me, with slow wings, and QB fuse,
> you should check your count and get some when you talk to them
> next. I think the quantity supplied with the fuse kit was something
> like 22. Required are at least 9 on each bottom, 12 on each top, plus
> I think 7 around the nose. I think there were a few others, too.
>
> On a side note, does anyone who's completed the fuse know what's up
> with the one nutplate that is predrilled that goes on the bottom
> skin in the middle of the center section, where the wing spar goes?
> It sure seems like this nutplate, if installed, would scrape
> the spar. Gus seemed to think it may have been a set of holes that
> was drilled by accident that won't be used. Just looking
> for confirmation. I left mine empty.
>
> Tim
>
>
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Reaming question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
What type or brand of reamer is being used? Where did
you purchase them?
Steve 40212
--- LessDragProd@aol.com wrote:
>
> FWIW, no sharp edges.
>
> A 0.010 edge break is a "standard". This would
> apply to the edge of a part,
> or the edge of a hole.
>
> Regards,
> Jim Ayers
>
> In a message dated 10/11/2005 12:43:42 AM Pacific
> Daylight Time,
> jjessen@rcn.com writes:
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen"
> <jjessen@rcn.com>
>
> I looked at the past posts on reaming, but wanted
> to try this question out
> on the group anyway.
>
> Working on the HS and am now at the stage of
> deburring all my reamed holes.
> Do I need to debur if using a reamer? I'm doing
> so, and I don't really mind
> it since I have the Cogsdill and it goes fast, but
> am wondering if it's
> necessary. Has anyone gotten out a magnifying
> glass and taken a careful
> look? Any thoughts?
>
> John Jessen
> 40328 HS
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited/
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Reaming question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: c <toaster73@earthlink.net>
Try mcmaster.com
Thats where I bought mine.
Chris
#40072
-----Original Message-----
From: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Reaming question
--> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
What type or brand of reamer is being used? Where did
you purchase them?
Steve 40212
--- LessDragProd@aol.com wrote:
>
> FWIW, no sharp edges.
>
> A 0.010 edge break is a "standard". This would
> apply to the edge of a part,
> or the edge of a hole.
>
> Regards,
> Jim Ayers
>
> In a message dated 10/11/2005 12:43:42 AM Pacific
> Daylight Time,
> jjessen@rcn.com writes:
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen"
> <jjessen@rcn.com>
>
> I looked at the past posts on reaming, but wanted
> to try this question out
> on the group anyway.
>
> Working on the HS and am now at the stage of
> deburring all my reamed holes.
> Do I need to debur if using a reamer? I'm doing
> so, and I don't really mind
> it since I have the Cogsdill and it goes fast, but
> am wondering if it's
> necessary. Has anyone gotten out a magnifying
> glass and taken a careful
> look? Any thoughts?
>
> John Jessen
> 40328 HS
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited/
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Reaming question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
I don't have the reamers within reach right now, but they were purchased
from Avery. #30 and #40. Description follows:
CHUCKING REAMERS FOR PRE-PUNCHED HOLES
#30 REAMER (.1280")
Many kit manufacturers today are CNC match hole punching their kit parts,and
recommend the builder open the holes up to the proper rivet hole size.One
method is to ream the pre-punched holes to the correct size.Reamers give you
a rounder,closer tolerance finished hole with less burrs around the holes,
and can be used just like a drill bit.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Darton Steve
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Reaming question
--> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
What type or brand of reamer is being used? Where did you purchase them?
Steve 40212
--- LessDragProd@aol.com wrote:
>
> FWIW, no sharp edges.
>
> A 0.010 edge break is a "standard". This would apply to the edge of
> a part, or the edge of a hole.
>
> Regards,
> Jim Ayers
>
> In a message dated 10/11/2005 12:43:42 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> jjessen@rcn.com writes:
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen"
> <jjessen@rcn.com>
>
> I looked at the past posts on reaming, but wanted to try this
> question out on the group anyway.
>
> Working on the HS and am now at the stage of deburring all my reamed
> holes.
> Do I need to debur if using a reamer? I'm doing
> so, and I don't really mind
> it since I have the Cogsdill and it goes fast, but am wondering if
> it's necessary. Has anyone gotten out a magnifying glass and taken a
> careful
> look? Any thoughts?
>
> John Jessen
> 40328 HS
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited/
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Reaming question |
Are you saying that the reamer is leaving the edge as if it were deburred?
"No sharp edges" Or, that one must debur and not leave a sharp edge.
The question is, if using a reamer, does one have to then follow with
deburring? Or, does the reamer use a smooth enough edge / hole.
John Jessen
40328 HS
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
LessDragProd@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Reaming question
FWIW, no sharp edges.
A 0.010 edge break is a "standard". This would apply to the edge of a part,
or the edge of a hole.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 10/11/2005 12:43:42 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
jjessen@rcn.com writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
I looked at the past posts on reaming, but wanted to try this question out
on the group anyway.
Working on the HS and am now at the stage of deburring all my reamed holes.
Do I need to debur if using a reamer? I'm doing so, and I don't really mind
it since I have the Cogsdill and it goes fast, but am wondering if it's
necessary. Has anyone gotten out a magnifying glass and taken a careful
look? Any thoughts?
John Jessen
40328 HS
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Reaming question |
Y'all are going to have to take this with a grain of salt because I
haven't done any serious metal work since my BD-5 (for sale if you want!
:-P ), so I'm maybe I'm just speculating and brain-storming. The reason
to deburr, from my perspective, is to get rid of the small 'flange' on
the edge of the drilled hole. Let me try to picture what I think
happens: With a 'new' hole being drilled, the drill cuts toward the end
of the flute, a small ridge develops on the top surface from aluminum
that's pushed to the outside of the hole instead of being cut free.
Now, the bit chews it's way through the material until there's a small
ring that hasn't been drilled out. Instead of drilling it clean, the bit
pressure forms a little lip around the hole on the bottom of the skin.
Now, with a pre-drilled hole that you're opening up, I think the same
lips form top and bottom. These lips will interfere with a correct
dimple, so we deburr these holes and relieve some of the stress
associated with dimpling that can cause cracking around the hole. We
also deburr straight edges to relieve cutting marks that are the source
of stress risers.
Now, on to the reamers. The reamers are going to open up the hole by
scraping the insides of the hole Vs. scraping on an angle like a drill
bit. There may be a lip formed on the top and bottom of the part, but
it will be very, very, small. Maybe one of the reaming guys can comment
on what it feels like when they run a finger nail across a reamed hole
Vs. a drilled hole.
I'd really appreciate some feedback pointing out my logic failures ....
or successes if there are any :-) , and I appreciate y'all taking the
time to read through my post.
do not archive
Linn
John Jessen wrote:
> Are you saying that the reamer is leaving the edge as if it were
> deburred? "No sharp edges" Or, that one must debur and not leave a
> sharp edge.
>
> The question is, if using a reamer, does one have to then follow with
> deburring? Or, does the reamer use a smooth enough edge / hole.
>
> John Jessen
> 40328 HS
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> LessDragProd@aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 6:41 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Reaming question
>
> FWIW, no sharp edges.
>
> A 0.010 edge break is a "standard". This would apply to the edge of a
> part, or the edge of a hole.
>
> Regards,
> Jim Ayers
>
> In a message dated 10/11/2005 12:43:42 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> jjessen@rcn.com writes:
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
>
> I looked at the past posts on reaming, but wanted to try this
> question out
> on the group anyway.
>
> Working on the HS and am now at the stage of deburring all my
> reamed holes.
> Do I need to debur if using a reamer? I'm doing so, and I don't
> really mind
> it since I have the Cogsdill and it goes fast, but am wondering if
> it's
> necessary. Has anyone gotten out a magnifying glass and taken a
> careful
> look? Any thoughts?
>
> John Jessen
> 40328 HS
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Reaming question |
You will still get a lip and you can usually feel it although it is considerably
less. Basically you have to use your best judgment. Will deburring, and
thus usually leaving a somewhat ragged concave hole ( at a nearly microsocopic
level) be worse, better, or the same as leaving a tiny lip? I can tell you that
I can feel the difference between the two on holes that were dimpled. Not
sharp and probably not enough to make any diference. Sometimes I deburr, sometimes
I dont. Just depends on the amount of material left behind.
Also, Cleaveland Aircraft Tool carries reamers. http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 bottom wing skins
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn walters
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Reaming question
Y'all are going to have to take this with a grain of salt because I haven't done
any serious metal work since my BD-5 (for sale if you want! :-P ), so I'm maybe
I'm just speculating and brain-storming. The reason to deburr, from my perspective,
is to get rid of the small 'flange' on the edge of the drilled hole.
Let me try to picture what I think happens: With a 'new' hole being drilled,
the drill cuts toward the end of the flute, a small ridge develops on the top
surface from aluminum that's pushed to the outside of the hole instead of being
cut free. Now, the bit chews it's way through the material until there's
a small ring that hasn't been drilled out. Instead of drilling it clean, the
bit pressure forms a little lip around the hole on the bottom of the skin.
Now, with a pre-drilled hole that you're opening up, I think the same lips form
top and bottom. These lips will interfere with a correct dimple, so we deburr
these holes and relieve some of the stress associated with dimpling that can
cause cracking around the hole. We also deburr straight edges to relieve cutting
marks that are the source of stress risers.
Now, on to the reamers. The reamers are going to open up the hole by scraping
the insides of the hole Vs. scraping on an angle like a drill bit. There may
be a lip formed on the top and bottom of the part, but it will be very, very,
small. Maybe one of the reaming guys can comment on what it feels like when
they run a finger nail across a reamed hole Vs. a drilled hole.
I'd really appreciate some feedback pointing out my logic failures .... or successes
if there are any :-) , and I appreciate y'all taking the time to read through
my post.
do not archive
Linn
John Jessen wrote:
Are you saying that the reamer is leaving the edge as if it were deburred?
"No sharp edges" Or, that one must debur and not leave a sharp edge.
The question is, if using a reamer, does one have to then follow with deburring?
Or, does the reamer use a smooth enough edge / hole.
John Jessen
40328 HS
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of LessDragProd@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 6:41 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Reaming question
=09
=09
=09
FWIW, no sharp edges.
A 0.010 edge break is a "standard". This would apply to the edge of a
part, or the edge of a hole.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 10/11/2005 12:43:42 AM Pacific Daylight Time, jjessen@rcn.com
writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com> <mailto:jjessen@rcn.com>
=09
I looked at the past posts on reaming, but wanted to try this question
out
on the group anyway.
=09
Working on the HS and am now at the stage of deburring all my reamed
holes.
Do I need to debur if using a reamer? I'm doing so, and I don't
really mind
it since I have the Cogsdill and it goes fast, but am wondering
if it's
necessary. Has anyone gotten out a magnifying glass and taken
a careful
look? Any thoughts?
=09
John Jessen
40328 HS
=09
=09
=09
________________________________
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Counter sinking - just how much really to get a good fit |
Ok, I've taken the courses and practiced and tested the holes with a little
dimpled piece of Al that is the same thickness as the skins, and I've even
put together my VS and Rudder, but last night made me pause as I was dry
fitting the HS skin edges to the newly counter-sunk rear spar flanges.
Specifically, I noticed that the skin did not fit as tightly as before they
were dimpled. I would think you'd want to countersink sufficiently to get
those dimples into those countersunk holes so they would fit nice and tight.
However, looking at my countersunk holes, I'm worried to take them further
than they are. Picture attached. Not sure you can tell how deep they are,
given the focus. My little test tool had the Al laying flat against the
flange.
John Jessen
40328 HS
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Reaming question
You will still get a lip and you can usually feel it although it is
considerably less. Basically you have to use your best judgment. Will
deburring, and thus usually leaving a somewhat ragged concave hole ( at a
nearly microsocopic level) be worse, better, or the same as leaving a tiny
lip? I can tell you that I can feel the difference between the two on holes
that were dimpled. Not sharp and probably not enough to make any diference.
Sometimes I deburr, sometimes I dont. Just depends on the amount of
material left behind.
Also, Cleaveland Aircraft Tool carries reamers.
http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 bottom wing skins
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn walters
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Reaming question
Y'all are going to have to take this with a grain of salt because I haven't
done any serious metal work since my BD-5 (for sale if you want! :-P ), so
I'm maybe I'm just speculating and brain-storming. The reason to deburr,
from my perspective, is to get rid of the small 'flange' on the edge of the
drilled hole. Let me try to picture what I think happens: With a 'new'
hole being drilled, the drill cuts toward the end of the flute, a small
ridge develops on the top surface from aluminum that's pushed to the outside
of the hole instead of being cut free. Now, the bit chews it's way through
the material until there's a small ring that hasn't been drilled out.
Instead of drilling it clean, the bit pressure forms a little lip around the
hole on the bottom of the skin.
Now, with a pre-drilled hole that you're opening up, I think the same lips
form top and bottom. These lips will interfere with a correct dimple, so we
deburr these holes and relieve some of the stress associated with dimpling
that can cause cracking around the hole. We also deburr straight edges to
relieve cutting marks that are the source of stress risers.
Now, on to the reamers. The reamers are going to open up the hole by
scraping the insides of the hole Vs. scraping on an angle like a drill bit.
There may be a lip formed on the top and bottom of the part, but it will be
very, very, small. Maybe one of the reaming guys can comment on what it
feels like when they run a finger nail across a reamed hole Vs. a drilled
hole.
I'd really appreciate some feedback pointing out my logic failures .... or
successes if there are any :-) , and I appreciate y'all taking the time to
read through my post.
do not archive
Linn
John Jessen wrote:
Are you saying that the reamer is leaving the edge as if it were deburred?
"No sharp edges" Or, that one must debur and not leave a sharp edge.
The question is, if using a reamer, does one have to then follow with
deburring? Or, does the reamer use a smooth enough edge / hole.
John Jessen
40328 HS
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
LessDragProd@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Reaming question
FWIW, no sharp edges.
A 0.010 edge break is a "standard". This would apply to the edge of a part,
or the edge of a hole.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 10/11/2005 12:43:42 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
jjessen@rcn.com writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <mailto:jjessen@rcn.com>
<jjessen@rcn.com>
I looked at the past posts on reaming, but wanted to try this question out
on the group anyway.
Working on the HS and am now at the stage of deburring all my reamed holes.
Do I need to debur if using a reamer? I'm doing so, and I don't really mind
it since I have the Cogsdill and it goes fast, but am wondering if it's
necessary. Has anyone gotten out a magnifying glass and taken a careful
look? Any thoughts?
John Jessen
40328 HS
_____
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Very minor parts shortage |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
Yes, you need the nutplate between the center section spars. This
nutplate should not interfere because with the dihedral of wing, it
should not hit, worst case, use a shorter screw.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
CDNI Principal Engineer
Sprint PCS
16020 West 113th Street
Lenexa, KS 66219
Mailstop KSLNXK0101
(913) 859-1414 (Office)
(913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
(913) 859-1234 (Fax)
Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Very minor parts shortage
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Howdy Ray, Thanks for the comment. I did miss the note to
"Do not install nutplate..." on page 44-2 Figure 1.
Maybe that's why that one was harder to rivet in place. ;)
The nutplate that I'm worried about is the one that goes
between the center sections F1004A and F1004B (or F & H).
Right exactly where the main spar goes. Do you really
put one in that location? I looked at it with the wings
on and there's almost no room for a nutplate or screw to come
out the nutplate. But, the fairing is punched there.
I just wanted to verify that the wings won't actually hit it.
Since I did install one where I shouldn't have, I can easily
just drill that one out. I'm betting, now that I look
at it, that the reason for no nutplate in that 2nd to the
last space is because once you put the bolt in for your
flap linkage, I bet there would be interference as the flaps
moved...or something like that. Anyway, that's an easy fix.
Another funny thing is, that front skin support, F1099G-L...
that one doesn't seem to get any form of attachment to the skin.
Not only that, but on mine I don't think the skin actually even
came up high enough to touch it. It must just be there to
prevent some massive cave-in of the fairing.
All of this is on page 44-2.
Tim
Doerr, Ray R [NTK] wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]"
<Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
>
> Tim I have slow build fuse and just riveted on these nutplates on the
> bottom center skin this weekend. There are 9 nutplates on the bottom
> center skin. One is aft of the rear spar attachment and then the next
> one is forward of the rear spar with the last one between the center
> section main spars. I beliebe the one you are referring to is right
at
> the rear spar. My instruction indicate that no nutplate is to be
> installed in this position and my skin does not even have the holes
for
> it anyway. I think the earlier bottom skins had this drilled, but the
> newer ones like mine do not.
>
>
>
> Thank You
> Ray Doerr
> CDNI Principal Engineer
> Sprint PCS
> 16020 West 113th Street
> Lenexa, KS 66219
> Mailstop KSLNXK0101
> (913) 859-1414 (Office)
> (913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
> (913) 859-1234 (Fax)
> Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 9:13 AM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: Very minor parts shortage
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I have slow wings, QB fuse. Last week when I went to do my wing root
> fairings I found that I was around 40 K1100-08 nutplates short.
> I had just closed my wings, and thus had also just installed
> all of them on the wings and access panels, having just freshly
> opened those hardware bags. Gus verified that the quantity listed in
> the various kits does not add up, and he sent me 40 more, which
> arrived very very quickly I must say, by USPS.
> If you're in the same postion as me, with slow wings, and QB fuse,
> you should check your count and get some when you talk to them
> next. I think the quantity supplied with the fuse kit was something
> like 22. Required are at least 9 on each bottom, 12 on each top, plus
> I think 7 around the nose. I think there were a few others, too.
>
> On a side note, does anyone who's completed the fuse know what's up
> with the one nutplate that is predrilled that goes on the bottom
> skin in the middle of the center section, where the wing spar goes?
> It sure seems like this nutplate, if installed, would scrape
> the spar. Gus seemed to think it may have been a set of holes that
> was drilled by accident that won't be used. Just looking
> for confirmation. I left mine empty.
>
> Tim
>
>
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Reaming question |
The reaming does leave a smaller lip (from the feel of it, no proof
visually), but how much this matters when dimpling, I have no clue. I would
think that when simply riveting without dimpling, the tiny lip would be
eliminated by the pressure of the riveting process, or may increase the
likelihood of starting a micro-crack.
Ah well, I guess it's time for me to buy one of the standard aluminum
aircraft building books that gives the definitive answers to such questions.
Any suggestions as to the best out there?
John Jessen
40328 HS (and enjoying the learning as well as the doing)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Reaming question
You will still get a lip and you can usually feel it although it is
considerably less. Basically you have to use your best judgment. Will
deburring, and thus usually leaving a somewhat ragged concave hole ( at a
nearly microsocopic level) be worse, better, or the same as leaving a tiny
lip? I can tell you that I can feel the difference between the two on holes
that were dimpled. Not sharp and probably not enough to make any diference.
Sometimes I deburr, sometimes I dont. Just depends on the amount of
material left behind.
Also, Cleaveland Aircraft Tool carries reamers.
http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 bottom wing skins
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn walters
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Reaming question
Y'all are going to have to take this with a grain of salt because I haven't
done any serious metal work since my BD-5 (for sale if you want! :-P ), so
I'm maybe I'm just speculating and brain-storming. The reason to deburr,
from my perspective, is to get rid of the small 'flange' on the edge of the
drilled hole. Let me try to picture what I think happens: With a 'new'
hole being drilled, the drill cuts toward the end of the flute, a small
ridge develops on the top surface from aluminum that's pushed to the outside
of the hole instead of being cut free. Now, the bit chews it's way through
the material until there's a small ring that hasn't been drilled out.
Instead of drilling it clean, the bit pressure forms a little lip around the
hole on the bottom of the skin.
Now, with a pre-drilled hole that you're opening up, I think the same lips
form top and bottom. These lips will interfere with a correct dimple, so we
deburr these holes and relieve some of the stress associated with dimpling
that can cause cracking around the hole. We also deburr straight edges to
relieve cutting marks that are the source of stress risers.
Now, on to the reamers. The reamers are going to open up the hole by
scraping the insides of the hole Vs. scraping on an angle like a drill bit.
There may be a lip formed on the top and bottom of the part, but it will be
very, very, small. Maybe one of the reaming guys can comment on what it
feels like when they run a finger nail across a reamed hole Vs. a drilled
hole.
I'd really appreciate some feedback pointing out my logic failures .... or
successes if there are any :-) , and I appreciate y'all taking the time to
read through my post.
do not archive
Linn
John Jessen wrote:
Are you saying that the reamer is leaving the edge as if it were deburred?
"No sharp edges" Or, that one must debur and not leave a sharp edge.
The question is, if using a reamer, does one have to then follow with
deburring? Or, does the reamer use a smooth enough edge / hole.
John Jessen
40328 HS
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
LessDragProd@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Reaming question
FWIW, no sharp edges.
A 0.010 edge break is a "standard". This would apply to the edge of a part,
or the edge of a hole.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 10/11/2005 12:43:42 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
jjessen@rcn.com writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <mailto:jjessen@rcn.com>
<jjessen@rcn.com>
I looked at the past posts on reaming, but wanted to try this question out
on the group anyway.
Working on the HS and am now at the stage of deburring all my reamed holes.
Do I need to debur if using a reamer? I'm doing so, and I don't really mind
it since I have the Cogsdill and it goes fast, but am wondering if it's
necessary. Has anyone gotten out a magnifying glass and taken a careful
look? Any thoughts?
John Jessen
40328 HS
_____
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Wing Tips Don't Line Up |
Best way I have found in 3 planes built is to save the wing tips until
the wings are on the fuse. Line up the flaps perfectly in trail and be
sure they mate to your fuse as you expect, then be sure the ailerons to
match the flaps (or adjust to make them match), then fit the wing tips
to match the ailerons.
-Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Testement
Subject: RV10-List: Wing Tips Don't Line Up
I am attaching my wing tips and have all of the nutplates complete on
one and the other drilled and clecoed. Neither of the wing tips line up
with the ailerons in neutral position. I have clamped the ailerons in
line with the flaps in full up position. The trailing edge of the right
wing tip is about 1/2" lower than the trailing edge of the aileron. The
trailing edge of the left wing tip is about 1/4" higher than the
aileron.
The trailing edges of the wing tips are about 1/4" - 3/8" too long. I
can trim them without breaking the trailing edge joint.
I cannot see any simple way of bending/aligning the wing tips except for
perhaps cutting the trailing edge in half and reattaching them while
trying to twist them into alignment. I would love to hear what others
have done to deal with this. I really hope it is not bad parts cause I
have put a lot of hours into these wingtips.
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Working on QB Wing Tips
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Wing order + components |
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
Ok, this autopilot stuff has got me a bit confused. I am going to put
the vans aileron trim kit in. I assume that naturally goes in the left
wing. So I guess that means I need to get the autopilot servo for the
right wing. I am going to go with one of the tru-trak models so I guess
i just need to know which servo to get for the wing. I don't really
know which model I want yet, and I don't really know what will be
available by the time I am ready to install the autopilot. Am I better
off just retrofitting it when the time comes? Are the servos
interchangeable between models / upgrades?
All of the electronics / engine stuff has me kind of waffling. I feel
like we are at a time where there is a lot going on in both industries
and in the 2+ years that its going to take me to build this thing there
is going to be a lot of advancement, so it makes me kind of edgy to lock
into something when I haven't yet finished the empennage ;) On the
other hand it feels like I need to make all the decisions about what I'm
going to have in the panel and FWF before I finish the wings so that I
get all the proper plumbing, servos, wires, electronics, etc in there.
Thanks for the advice....
James
Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Michael,
>
> You mentioned getting the opposite wing AP servo if you're using
> Van's aileron trim. What are you saying, the aileron trim can't
> mount in the Left wing? My wings are closed, but I figured I'd
> mount that later.
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Don't forget position lights also. If you go with the AoA from
>> Rob, you can also get the wing kit and put that in at the same time
>> as the duckworks HID. It sits just aft of the HID. Others have
>> already mentioned the Pitot and AP. Just don't forget to order the
>> AP servo for the opposite wing if you get Van's Aileron trim.
>>
>>
>>
>> Michael Sausen
>> -10 #352 Flaps
>>
>
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Wing order + components |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
James,
All the trutrak servos are the same, it goes easily in the right wing with the
supplied brackets. I picked mine up from Less Drag products but there are other
dealers, his service and the ability to buy just one servo at a time was cool.
Sit down before you read the price though. I need some more info on Vans roll
trim. My wings are done and wired so I'm in no hurry to add my roll trim just
yet but it looks easy to install on the inboard access panel.
Email me off line for my phone number if you want to discuss and I can tell you
a lot more than typing it.
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Very minor parts shortage |
I installed those nutplates and had to remove a couple to get the side skins
on. They are easy to get to after the side skins are on.
Jim Wade 40383
-------Original Message-------
From: Doerr, Ray R [NTK]
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Very minor parts shortage
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint
com>
Tim I have slow build fuse and just riveted on these nutplates on the
bottom center skin this weekend. There are 9 nutplates on the bottom
center skin. One is aft of the rear spar attachment and then the next
one is forward of the rear spar with the last one between the center
section main spars. I beliebe the one you are referring to is right at
the rear spar. My instruction indicate that no nutplate is to be
installed in this position and my skin does not even have the holes for
it anyway. I think the earlier bottom skins had this drilled, but the
newer ones like mine do not.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
CDNI Principal Engineer
Sprint PCS
16020 West 113th Street
Lenexa, KS 66219
Mailstop KSLNXK0101
(913) 859-1414 (Office)
(913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
(913) 859-1234 (Fax)
Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Very minor parts shortage
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I have slow wings, QB fuse. Last week when I went to do my wing root
fairings I found that I was around 40 K1100-08 nutplates short.
I had just closed my wings, and thus had also just installed
all of them on the wings and access panels, having just freshly
opened those hardware bags. Gus verified that the quantity listed in
the various kits does not add up, and he sent me 40 more, which
arrived very very quickly I must say, by USPS.
If you're in the same postion as me, with slow wings, and QB fuse,
you should check your count and get some when you talk to them
next. I think the quantity supplied with the fuse kit was something
like 22. Required are at least 9 on each bottom, 12 on each top, plus
I think 7 around the nose. I think there were a few others, too.
On a side note, does anyone who's completed the fuse know what's up
with the one nutplate that is predrilled that goes on the bottom
skin in the middle of the center section, where the wing spar goes?
It sure seems like this nutplate, if installed, would scrape
the spar. Gus seemed to think it may have been a set of holes that
was drilled by accident that won't be used. Just looking
for confirmation. I left mine empty.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
fit
| Subject: | Re: Counter sinking - just how much really to get a good |
fit
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list - No Plain-Text Section
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Wing order + components |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
James,
You are correct. The standard location for the Van's trim is the Left
Wing. It can be installed anytime. The TruTrak AP Servo will need to
be for the Right Wing. There is a difference and they will want to
know. It is easiest to install when you have your torque tubes and the
like temporarily installed for fit BEFORE you put on the bottom skin.
You can do it anytime but it will be easier when you don't have to do it
through a small access panel. If you are following the sequence most of
us are, we skip the bottom skin and do that last. Just makes it easier
to do all of the initial fitting of the tubes and stuff.
Call Stein (if he doesn't respond to this message) and he will know
what you need. All the TT's use the same servo and you won't be out of
luck because of a tech change. They really don't change servos much..
IMHO, get the wing harness for the servo right away and run that also.
Don't fret too much over this. I spent a lot of time myself figuring
out what to run and where to run it and I have a good understanding of
these things. Probably made it worse as I over thought it waaay too
much. Just make a list of everything you need to put in each wing and
review it at each chapter for a refresher. Most of the stuff doesn't go
in permanently until you do the bottom skin.
And most important, ping the group with any questions.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Wing Assembly
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wing order + components
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
Ok, this autopilot stuff has got me a bit confused. I am going to put
the vans aileron trim kit in. I assume that naturally goes in the left
wing. So I guess that means I need to get the autopilot servo for the
right wing. I am going to go with one of the tru-trak models so I guess
i just need to know which servo to get for the wing. I don't really
know which model I want yet, and I don't really know what will be
available by the time I am ready to install the autopilot. Am I better
off just retrofitting it when the time comes? Are the servos
interchangeable between models / upgrades?
All of the electronics / engine stuff has me kind of waffling. I feel
like we are at a time where there is a lot going on in both industries
and in the 2+ years that its going to take me to build this thing there
is going to be a lot of advancement, so it makes me kind of edgy to lock
into something when I haven't yet finished the empennage ;) On the
other hand it feels like I need to make all the decisions about what I'm
going to have in the panel and FWF before I finish the wings so that I
get all the proper plumbing, servos, wires, electronics, etc in there.
Thanks for the advice....
James
Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Michael,
>
> You mentioned getting the opposite wing AP servo if you're using Van's
> aileron trim. What are you saying, the aileron trim can't mount in
> the Left wing? My wings are closed, but I figured I'd mount that
> later.
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Don't forget position lights also. If you go with the AoA from
>> Rob, you can also get the wing kit and put that in at the same time
>> as the duckworks HID. It sits just aft of the HID. Others have
>> already mentioned the Pitot and AP. Just don't forget to order the
>> AP servo for the opposite wing if you get Van's Aileron trim.
>>
>>
>>
>> Michael Sausen
>> -10 #352 Flaps
>>
>
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I was just looking at Vans site for their electric aileron trim and it appears
that the servo is mounted inside the fuselage not the wing. Am I missing something
here?
"RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net> wrote: The Aerotrim unit
requires you to cut a small square out of the control surface. It then sit's
in that hole as a complete unit acting as the access plate. You then attach a
small tab to the trailing edge of the control surface and the linkage then controls
that. You would route the control wires out the back of the control surface
into the aircraft. It is a very straight forward system when you want to
add trim to an existing system that has no other option.
For me the clean install of the Van's system inside the wing, moving the whole
surface, is a better option. I may still consider Aerotrim for the rudder should
the need arise.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Flaps
---------------------------------
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: RV10-List: Aileron trim
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick Jesse,
Did your aileron trim require cutting into the aileron itself or does is move the
entire roll control?
Rick s.
40185
========================================== Photoshare, and much ====================================
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Wing order + components |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
The recommended location for the TT roll servo is the right wing. It mounts where
the aileron bellcrank is at the outboard access panel. One of the Van's supplied
brackets is replaced w/a TT supplied bracket. Very easy and clean, only
difference between the L and R wing mounting is the bracket. TT can supply
either.
The Van's supplied aileron trim is designed to mount in the left wing although
it appears that it could easily go in either wing. It mounts to the access panel
cover on the inboard access panel. It is a servo similar to the elevator
trim servo. It connects via a pair of springs to the aileron control rod. Servo
movement causes spring tension to change. There is nothing that would preclude
this being in the same wing as the TT roll servo. I'll take a picture of
the trim kit when I get back in town at the end of the week if anybody wants
to see it.
Finally, most of the TruTrak autopilots use the same servos. this is true of the
Digiflight, DFC and Sorceror. The very low end autopilots use a less expensive
servo. It is possible to purchase the servos w/installation kits seperate
from the actual AP computer. the soonest youjd need the servos is immediately
before closing the wing out. It is possible to install the servo after the
wing is closed, but it will take longer (couple of hours and scraped knuckles
vs 30 minutes).
Bob
--------------------------
Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wing order + components
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
Ok, this autopilot stuff has got me a bit confused. I am going to put
the vans aileron trim kit in. I assume that naturally goes in the left
wing. So I guess that means I need to get the autopilot servo for the
right wing. I am going to go with one of the tru-trak models so I guess
i just need to know which servo to get for the wing. I don't really
know which model I want yet, and I don't really know what will be
available by the time I am ready to install the autopilot. Am I better
off just retrofitting it when the time comes? Are the servos
interchangeable between models / upgrades?
All of the electronics / engine stuff has me kind of waffling. I feel
like we are at a time where there is a lot going on in both industries
and in the 2+ years that its going to take me to build this thing there
is going to be a lot of advancement, so it makes me kind of edgy to lock
into something when I haven't yet finished the empennage ;) On the
other hand it feels like I need to make all the decisions about what I'm
going to have in the panel and FWF before I finish the wings so that I
get all the proper plumbing, servos, wires, electronics, etc in there.
Thanks for the advice....
James
Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Michael,
>
> You mentioned getting the opposite wing AP servo if you're using
> Van's aileron trim. What are you saying, the aileron trim can't
> mount in the Left wing? My wings are closed, but I figured I'd
> mount that later.
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Don't forget position lights also. If you go with the AoA from
>> Rob, you can also get the wing kit and put that in at the same time
>> as the duckworks HID. It sits just aft of the HID. Others have
>> already mentioned the Pitot and AP. Just don't forget to order the
>> AP servo for the opposite wing if you get Van's Aileron trim.
>>
>>
>>
>> Michael Sausen
>> -10 #352 Flaps
>>
>
Message 28
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Wing order + components |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Clarification on Rick's email..... the TruTrak DIGITAL servos are the
same. Trutrak does have more than one type of servo, but if you're
buying a digital AP, you would get the same servo as any other
digital model.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Rick wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>
> James,
>
> All the trutrak servos are the same, it goes easily in the right wing
> with the supplied brackets. I picked mine up from Less Drag products
> but there are other dealers, his service and the ability to buy just
> one servo at a time was cool. Sit down before you read the price
> though. I need some more info on Vans roll trim. My wings are done
> and wired so I'm in no hurry to add my roll trim just yet but it
> looks easy to install on the inboard access panel.
>
> Email me off line for my phone number if you want to discuss and I
> can tell you a lot more than typing it.
>
> Rick S. 40185 Fuselage
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 29
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Yep, in typical Van's fashion I don't think they ever got around to really update
their site. The -10 is different, it goes in one of the wing access panels.
Actually it bolts right to it with springs attaching to the push/pull tube.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 wing assembly
do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos Napoli
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Aileron trim
I was just looking at Vans site for their electric aileron trim and it appears
that the servo is mounted inside the fuselage not the wing. Am I missing something
here?
"RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net> wrote:
The Aerotrim unit requires you to cut a small square out of the control
surface. It then sit's in that hole as a complete unit acting as the access
plate. You then attach a small tab to the trailing edge of the control surface
and the linkage then controls that. You would route the control wires out
the back of the control surface into the aircraft. It is a very straight forward
system when you want to add trim to an existing system that has no other
option.
For me the clean install of the Van's system inside the wing, moving
the whole surface, is a better option. I may still consider Aerotrim for the
rudder should the need arise.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Flaps
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Sent: Friday, October 07, 2005 9:58 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Aileron trim
=09
=09
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick
Jesse,
Did your aileron trim require cutting into the aileron itself or does is
move the entire roll control?
Rick s.
40185
Photoshare, and much
Message 30
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | For your bookshelf |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Mark Grieve <mark@macomb.com>
John Jessen wrote:
> <snip>
>
> Ah well, I guess it's time for me to buy one of the standard aluminum
> aircraft building books that gives the definitive answers to such
> questions. Any suggestions as to the best out there?
>
> John Jessen
> 40328 HS (and enjoying the learning as well as the doing)
Standard Aircraft Handbook from Aero isbn 0-8306-8634-7
This is my favorite. Lots of information crammed into a compact book.
Mark
Message 31
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Wing order + components |
--> RV10-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
James Ochs wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
>
> Ok, this autopilot stuff has got me a bit confused. I am going to put
> the vans aileron trim kit in. I assume that naturally goes in the
> left wing. So I guess that means I need to get the autopilot servo
> for the right wing.
I'm glad you brought this up, because I haven't even given it a whole
lot of thought ..... just collected a ton of info (some duplicates) each
year to add to my binder of magic airplane stuff.
The question that popped into my mind was ..... why do you need two
servo's (trim and AP)??? It seems like the auto pilot automatically
provides a 'trim' funtion. BUT, without the autopilot engaged, why
can't the autopilot servo be driven manually???? What am I missing???
Linn ..... doing a lot of pondering lately
do not archive
--
Message 32
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Wing order + components |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
Linn,
The trim system is a spring biased connection to the aileron controls. The centering
of the bias springs is controlled by a slow moving servo. The pilot can
override the spring bias for aileron control.
The autopilot servo is normally disengaged from the aileron control system. In
this mode the autopilot servo provides no forces on the aileron controls (other
than a slight gear train drag). However, when engaged, it drives the aileron
controls with considerable force. Not just a spring bias as with the aileron
trim. It is also capable of moving the ailerons much quicker than the trim
servo (based on commands from the autopilot).
They are two different systems connected to the aileron controls.
The same logic applies to the elevator trim / Autopilot servo except the elevator
trim servos operate the elevator trim tabs vs a spring connection. The autopilot
servo drives the elevator control directly just like the aileron servo.
Jim Combs
#40192 - N312F - Fuselage
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
The question that popped into my mind was ..... why do you need two
servo's (trim and AP)??? It seems like the auto pilot automatically
provides a 'trim' funtion. BUT, without the autopilot engaged, why
can't the autopilot servo be driven manually???? What am I missing???
Linn ..... doing a lot of pondering lately
do not archive
Message 33
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | RV-10 Door Incident |
Anyone seen this?
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t3637
Yikes!
Brian
#40308
Message 34
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Wing order + components |
--> RV10-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Jim, thanks for the reply. I didn't know how the trim was connected, so
I did learn something there. I hate re-inventing the wheel, so to
speak, but would probably investigate controlling the AP servo with low
voltage ( low forces) and small steps from neutral ..... creating just
enough control to allow the plane to fly hands off ..... which is the
goal. Just something to think about. But, when I start building .... I
won't have much time to 'invent' stuff so the idea will probably end up
back in the cobwebs.
Linn
Jim Combs wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
>
>Linn,
>
>The trim system is a spring biased connection to the aileron controls. The centering
of the bias springs is controlled by a slow moving servo. The pilot can
override the spring bias for aileron control.
>
>The autopilot servo is normally disengaged from the aileron control system. In
this mode the autopilot servo provides no forces on the aileron controls (other
than a slight gear train drag). However, when engaged, it drives the aileron
controls with considerable force. Not just a spring bias as with the aileron
trim. It is also capable of moving the ailerons much quicker than the trim
servo (based on commands from the autopilot).
>
>They are two different systems connected to the aileron controls.
>
>The same logic applies to the elevator trim / Autopilot servo except the elevator
trim servos operate the elevator trim tabs vs a spring connection. The autopilot
servo drives the elevator control directly just like the aileron servo.
>
>Jim Combs
>#40192 - N312F - Fuselage
>
>---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
>From: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>Reply-To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2005 21:27:57 -0400
>
>
>The question that popped into my mind was ..... why do you need two
>servo's (trim and AP)??? It seems like the auto pilot automatically
>provides a 'trim' funtion. BUT, without the autopilot engaged, why
>can't the autopilot servo be driven manually???? What am I missing???
>Linn ..... doing a lot of pondering lately
>do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Message 35
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Door Incident |
"Yikes" is an understatement! With all the normal stuff a pilot on his
first flight has to deal with, losing a door is a hell of a
distraction! Kudos to the pilot. Bet it took him a while to burn off
that adrenalin rush!!!
Linn
do not archive
rv10builder wrote:
> Anyone seen this?
>
> http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=3637
>
> Yikes!
>
> Brian
> #40308
>
>
>
>
Message 36
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | tail light LED combo |
Thought you might like to know; I visited perihelion's site from Tim's link
and figured it would be nice to have this option..
Rob,
I am now looking seriously at the LED strobe approach for a combo.
Regards,
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
(508) 764-2072
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert G. <mailto:armywrights@adelphia.net> Wright
Subject: tail LED
Is there any way you guys can also make a combo tail strobe/LED position
light?
Rob Wright, RV-10 builder
Message 37
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Door Incident |
In a message dated 10/11/2005 10:31:32 PM Eastern Standard Time,
rv10builder@bellsouth.net writes:
Anyone seen this?
Not the entire door coming off!!! I did see the factory demo at Sun
n Fun with the rear door pin on the outside a few times when potential
customers sat inside and tried to latch the door shut. The outside paint is damaged
in this area of that bird. The reps, kept telling people, Dont latch the
door.
The design seemed very weak at best to me. there is NO mechanism to draw
the door in for latching, and it is a difficult pull from the front seat to
get the rear portion flush before flipping the latch. Any ideas or reworks of
the design?
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Steve
Stephen Blank RV-10 Builder (almost) / Cessna 170B flyer
766 SE River Lane
Port St. Lucie, FL 34983
Message 38
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I was following an earlier tip of spraying primer into the steel tube
portion of the elevator horn then swishing it around for coverage, when I
had primer run out of the weld. I have very limited welding experience and
wouldn't think a pinhole miss during the weld would be a big deal. Any
comments on the integrity of the weld?
Oh, got to see Vic and Carol Syracuse's -10 at the SERFI this past weekend
at Evergreen, AL. I wasn't expecting to see a -10 there, so I was awesomely
surprised, especially since my wife was there and she could finally see the
end product of all my time out in the workshop. He's got a beautiful piece
of workmanship.
Rob
Riveting elevators
Message 39
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | rv10 fuel senders |
--> RV10-List message posted by: L Aune <lcaune@cablelan.net>
Does anyone have any information on capacitive fuel systems for the
RV10. I'm sure I saw a mention of it on someone's construction site
but I can't find that site.
Message 40
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Reaming question |
On a tour of Avcorp aircraft manufacturing in Surrey B.C. Canada I
noticed that they primed all surfaces first , and rather than debur
to remove the lip, they used a vixen style file and ran it face down
over the burrs, which didn't hurt the good primer. They were very
aware of the loss of material around the hole when it was deburred
and in close tolerance situations this would not be tolerated.
On Oct 11, 2005, at 12:01 PM, John Jessen wrote:
> The reaming does leave a smaller lip (from the feel of it, no proof
> visually), but how much this matters when dimpling, I have no
> clue. I would think that when simply riveting without dimpling,
> the tiny lip would be eliminated by the pressure of the riveting
> process, or may increase the likelihood of starting a micro-crack.
>
> Ah well, I guess it's time for me to buy one of the standard
> aluminum aircraft building books that gives the definitive answers
> to such questions. Any suggestions as to the best out there?
>
> John Jessen
> 40328 HS (and enjoying the learning as well as the doing)
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
> Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 11:17 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Reaming question
>
> You will still get a lip and you can usually feel it although it
> is considerably less. Basically you have to use your best
> judgment. Will deburring, and thus usually leaving a somewhat
> ragged concave hole ( at a nearly microsocopic level) be worse,
> better, or the same as leaving a tiny lip? I can tell you that I
> can feel the difference between the two on holes that were dimpled.
> Not sharp and probably not enough to make any diference. Sometimes
> I deburr, sometimes I dont. Just depends on the amount of material
> left behind.
>
> Also, Cleaveland Aircraft Tool carries reamers. http://
> www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/
>
> Michael Sausen
> -10 #352 bottom wing skins
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn walters
> Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 12:18 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Reaming question
>
> Y'all are going to have to take this with a grain of salt because I
> haven't done any serious metal work since my BD-5 (for sale if you
> want! :-P ), so I'm maybe I'm just speculating and brain-storming.
> The reason to deburr, from my perspective, is to get rid of the
> small 'flange' on the edge of the drilled hole. Let me try to
> picture what I think happens: With a 'new' hole being drilled, the
> drill cuts toward the end of the flute, a small ridge develops on
> the top surface from aluminum that's pushed to the outside of the
> hole instead of being cut free. Now, the bit chews it's way
> through the material until there's a small ring that hasn't been
> drilled out. Instead of drilling it clean, the bit pressure forms a
> little lip around the hole on the bottom of the skin.
>
> Now, with a pre-drilled hole that you're opening up, I think the
> same lips form top and bottom. These lips will interfere with a
> correct dimple, so we deburr these holes and relieve some of the
> stress associated with dimpling that can cause cracking around the
> hole. We also deburr straight edges to relieve cutting marks that
> are the source of stress risers.
>
> Now, on to the reamers. The reamers are going to open up the hole
> by scraping the insides of the hole Vs. scraping on an angle like
> a drill bit. There may be a lip formed on the top and bottom of
> the part, but it will be very, very, small. Maybe one of the
> reaming guys can comment on what it feels like when they run a
> finger nail across a reamed hole Vs. a drilled hole.
>
> I'd really appreciate some feedback pointing out my logic
> failures .... or successes if there are any :-) , and I appreciate
> y'all taking the time to read through my post.
> do not archive
> Linn
>
>
> John Jessen wrote:
> Are you saying that the reamer is leaving the edge as if it were
> deburred? "No sharp edges" Or, that one must debur and not leave
> a sharp edge.
>
> The question is, if using a reamer, does one have to then follow
> with deburring? Or, does the reamer use a smooth enough edge / hole.
>
> John Jessen
> 40328 HS
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of LessDragProd@aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 6:41 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Reaming question
>
> FWIW, no sharp edges.
>
> A 0.010 edge break is a "standard". This would apply to the edge
> of a part, or the edge of a hole.
>
> Regards,
> Jim Ayers
>
> In a message dated 10/11/2005 12:43:42 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> jjessen@rcn.com writes:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
>
> I looked at the past posts on reaming, but wanted to try this
> question out
> on the group anyway.
>
> Working on the HS and am now at the stage of deburring all my
> reamed holes.
> Do I need to debur if using a reamer? I'm doing so, and I don't
> really mind
> it since I have the Cogsdill and it goes fast, but am wondering if
> it's
> necessary. Has anyone gotten out a magnifying glass and taken a
> careful
> look? Any thoughts?
>
> John Jessen
> 40328 HS
>
>
> 10/11/05
>
>
Message 41
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Wing order + components |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Werner Schneider <glastar@gmx.net>
Hello Rick and James,
sorry to put things here in a bit a different light, the servos are all
the same from the dimension, however, they are different in torque they
do supply (and Amps they use), so best thing is just to call/email them
up and ask for the type you need for the aileron.
br Werner
Rick wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>
>James,
>
>All the trutrak servos are the same, it goes easily in the right wing with the
supplied brackets. I picked mine up from Less Drag products but there are other
dealers, his service and the ability to buy just one servo at a time was cool.
Sit down before you read the price though. I need some more info on Vans roll
trim. My wings are done and wired so I'm in no hurry to add my roll trim just
yet but it looks easy to install on the inboard access panel.
>
>Email me off line for my phone number if you want to discuss and I can tell you
a lot more than typing it.
>
>Rick S.
>40185
>Fuselage
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|