Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:07 AM - Re: aileron throw (Steven DiNieri)
2. 01:12 AM - Re: Gear leg thread (John Dunne)
3. 02:35 AM - Re: Glueing foam ribs in HS and Elevator - Pro-seal or ? (Patrick Pulis)
4. 02:39 AM - Re: Turbo 10 (Patrick Pulis)
5. 03:01 AM - Re: aileron throw (Link McGarity)
6. 03:35 AM - Re: Re: Archives and willingness to commentArchives and willingness to comment (Link McGarity)
7. 05:47 AM - Re: aileron throw (Paul Grimstad)
8. 06:06 AM - Fuel Injection 101 (Richard Sipp)
9. 06:31 AM - Re: Turbo 10 (Deems Davis)
10. 07:03 AM - Re: Baggage Door Hinge (Nikolaos Napoli)
11. 07:28 AM - Re: Baggage Door Hinge (David Maib)
12. 07:38 AM - Re: Priming - Sherwin Williams DTM (Brian Douglas)
13. 07:54 AM - Rudder Pedal Bolt Direction (Nikolaos Napoli)
14. 08:18 AM - Re: Baggage Door Hinge (Rick Gray)
15. 08:24 AM - Re: Rudder Pedal Bolt Direction (Tim Olson)
16. 08:36 AM - Re: Priming - Sherwin Williams DTM (Les Kearney)
17. 08:36 AM - Re: Rudder Pedal Bolt Direction (Rene Felker)
18. 08:44 AM - Fuel Injection 101 (Fred Williams, M.D.)
19. 08:48 AM - Re: Baggage Door Hinge (Niko)
20. 08:58 AM - Re: Priming - Sherwin Williams DTM (Michael D Chase)
21. 11:36 AM - Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's (Deems Davis)
22. 11:59 AM - Re: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's (Rene Felker)
23. 12:24 PM - Re: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's (David McNeill)
24. 12:36 PM - Thoughts after 35 hours (Scott Schmidt)
25. 12:39 PM - Re: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's (Deems Davis)
26. 01:09 PM - Re: Thoughts after 35 hours (Tim Olson)
27. 01:10 PM - Re: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's (Tim Olson)
28. 01:24 PM - Re: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's (David McNeill)
29. 01:53 PM - Re: aileron throw (Scott Schmidt)
30. 02:19 PM - Re: Thoughts after 35 hours (ddddsp1@juno.com)
31. 03:06 PM - Re: Thoughts after 35 hours (Jesse Saint)
32. 03:17 PM - glassing rivets into glass (David McNeill)
33. 03:49 PM - Re: Priming - Sherwin Williams DTM (Les Kearney)
34. 04:37 PM - Weathermeister (Jack Lockamy)
35. 04:50 PM - Re: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's (gary)
36. 04:52 PM - Weathermeister (Jack Lockamy)
37. 06:06 PM - Salt water environment? (Dsyvert@aol.com)
38. 06:07 PM - Re: Thoughts after 35 hours (Tim Olson)
39. 06:12 PM - Re: Thoughts after 35 hours (Tim Olson)
40. 06:12 PM - Re: Weathermeister (Marcus Cooper)
41. 07:36 PM - Re: Salt water environment? (MauleDriver)
42. 08:10 PM - Re: glassing rivets into glass (John W. Cox)
43. 08:17 PM - Re: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's (Bill DeRouchey)
44. 08:29 PM - Re: Salt water environment? (Eric Panning)
45. 08:33 PM - Re: Salt water environment? (Rob Wright)
46. 09:02 PM - O540 crank issues? (Eric Panning)
47. 09:24 PM - Re: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's (David McNeill)
Message 1
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Thanks for the info.
I measured the rudder pedals from the firewall mounted in full aft
position
(I=92m short)
Left pedal 4=94 ' 10=94 right pedal 4.5=94 ' 11=94
measured on
pilots side
Also rudder cable travel is 4 1/2=94 stop to stop as measured from the
clevis
hole in the rudder
Steve d
40205
With the elevator in neutral and full left aileron, the distance from
the
stick to the left fuselage skin is 5". Full right aileron, measured at
the
same spot, it is 17.5"
do not archive.
Rob Kermanj
--
11/4/2006
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
11/8/2006
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Gear leg thread |
Chris it looks like BSW 3/8" 16
John 40315
Message 3
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| Subject: | Glueing foam ribs in HS and Elevator - Pro-seal or ? |
G'day mate from downunder, wear two pairs of gloves and use old rags to
wipe everything up with Toluene and you'll be OK.
The end result is worth it.
Pat
RV-10 40822
Adelaide, South Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Schipper [mailto:mike@learningplanet.com]
Sent: Thursday, 9 November 2006 11:12 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Glueing foam ribs in HS and Elevator - Pro-seal
or ?
--> <mike@learningplanet.com>
Hi Bill,
I have used ProSeal and have been happy with the results. Yes, it smells
weird and is messy, but it's not too bad. You know it will work and
won't crack. One less thing to worry about.
Regards,
Mike Schipper
RV-9A - N63MS - Flying
RV-10 #40576 - Wings on the way
http://www.rvten.com
On Nov 8, 2006, at 5:25 PM, MauleDriver wrote:
>
> Vans specs Pro-seal. I see a number of people have used RTV silicon
> adhesive. Thoughts?
>
> - Though I've never handled it, Pro-seal seems messy - but made to
> withstand flexing, heat, and other a/c conditions
> - Various silicon adhesives are available at the local airplane stores
> (Lowes) - suitability not know by this builder
>
> I'm looking for some opinion. Thanks
>
> Bill Watson - Elevator, QB in transit, still acquiring tools and
> technique http://www.mykitlog.com/MauleDriver/
> do not archive
>
>
Message 4
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Gentlemen, the turbo 10 lives at Goolwa in South Australia and has been
modified by Jon Johansen, who has flow his RV-4 twice around the world
and once to Antarctica. As I understand it, the leading edges have also
been converted to a full span fuel tank, as have the tips. Jon's RV has
a completely wet wing, which has enabled it to have endurance in excess
of 16 hours. Jon also recently ferried an RV-8 across the Pacific from
the US. What I am trying to say here guys is that there is an
incredible amount of RV experience in this project.
Regards
Patrick
Adelaide, South Australia
RV-10 S/No. 40822
_____
From: John Dunne [mailto:acs@acspropeller.com.au]
Sent: Thursday, 9 November 2006 9:48 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Turbo 10
A few weeks back there was some discussion on a turbo 10 flying in Oz.
The people concerned have requested, if anyone is interested in finding
out more, to contact them direct.
Emails direct to Jon c/o info@flymore.com.au
I'd suggest one of you more knowledgeable engine or turbo types contact
them to see if there is anything worth bringing to the list but maybe
this was more to do with the modified turbo considering there was no
cowl mod and the 10 was just a convenient test bed? Perhaps.
John 40315
Do not archive
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: aileron throw |
Sorry, but I have to chime in with John C. on this one. You should NEVER
have restricted control movement by design. While it is true that the
control stick box, rudder travel for that matter, is/are normally rather
confined, especially at higher airpspeeds, there ARE situations, and in
other than aerobatic flight, where full control movement may be
required. I encourage anyone considering restricted control movement, by
design, to give this latter point serious consideration.
Example, and on the lighter side, a wake turbulence encounter.... A
neighbor, the other day, reported substantial wake turbulence and
control recovery effort after being "thumped" by an F-15 whilst on final
to our airport. What TFR? What presidential visit in progress some
12-15nm away, hi? Intercept procedures and required response, huh?
Anyway, point is to always consider the unexpected, and in this case the
need for full control authority, always.
Link McGarity
#40622 elevators
RV6/N42GF/flying, non builder
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Archives and willingness to commentArchives and willingness |
to comment
Jim, Keep the ideas and questions coming. If someone gets on a soapbox,
maybe even me a couple of times, hi, do not be deterred. We do not have
to all agree, or read every post, word for word.
Even what may seem to some a minor discussion, re Pro Seal vs RTV
bonding of foam trim tab and elevator ribs is relevant to many,
including me, as I am also at that stage, really don't like working with
Pro Seal, etc..
The resources that Tim, Deems, John J., and others, have posted to this
list, elsewhere, are very helpful, and obviously take a lot of time to
initially research, set up web sites, etc..
I've been flying professionally since 1979, but am new to the building
process, and really appreciate the efforts of the many.
Link McGarity
#40622 elevators
RV6/N42GF/flying, owned 3.5 yrs, did not build
do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: aileron throw |
Thanks Steve:
For rudder control I am planning to start with new steel cross tubs and
fabricate new drops for relocation of the rudder cables into the center
of the tunnel. Additionally, I am working on a single center drop arm
for each pedal. The finish should be lighter weight, more foot room, and
vanity covers for master cylinders and hoses. A plus if I can work it
out might be easy adjustably. I will post pictures as this takes shape.
Paul Grimstad
RV10 40450
Portland, OR 97219
----- Original Message -----
From: Steven DiNieri
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 12:05 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: aileron throw
Thanks for the info.
I measured the rudder pedals from the firewall mounted in full aft
position (I=92m short)
Left pedal 4=94 ' 10=94 right pedal 4.5=94 ' 11=94
measured on pilots side
Also rudder cable travel is 4 1/2=94 stop to stop as measured from the
clevis hole in the rudder
Steve d
40205
With the elevator in neutral and full left aileron, the distance from
the stick to the left fuselage skin is 5". Full right aileron, measured
at the same spot, it is 17.5"
do not archive.
Rob Kermanj
--
11/4/2006
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
11/8/2006
Message 8
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| Subject: | Fuel Injection 101 |
This past weekend I attended Airflow Performances' course; Fuel
Injection 101. I am finishing up the installation of their fuel
injection system and so the timing was right.
The class covers fuel injection theory and practical application. It
was particularly interesting to see the components actually functioning
on a flow bench. Valuable information on the best ways to install
supply lines, controls and sensors was also covered. An interesting
session on fuel air ratio control and injector balancing completed the
program.
Don & Colleen Rivera were outstanding hosts and the class students
enjoyed their hospitality.
Highly recommended for anyone operating or considering any RSA type fuel
injection system.
http://www.airflowperformance.com/
Dick Sipp
40065
Message 9
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Patrick, I noticed that you builder # is listed as 40822. Normally that
would imply Van's has sold at least 822 RV-10 kits. The highest number
that I had seen to date was in the mid to upper 600's. Is there a
special Van's numbering system for OZ?
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
Patrick Pulis wrote:
> Gentlemen, the turbo 10 lives at Goolwa in South Australia and has
> been modified by Jon Johansen, who has flow his RV-4 twice around the
> world and once to Antarctica. As I understand it, the leading edges
> have also been converted to a full span fuel tank, as have the tips.
> Jon's RV has a completely wet wing, which has enabled it to have
> endurance in excess of 16 hours. Jon also recently ferried an RV-8
> across the Pacific from the US. What I am trying to say here guys is
> that there is an incredible amount of RV experience in this project.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick
> Adelaide, South Australia
> RV-10 S/No. 40822
>
>*
>*
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Baggage Door Hinge |
This morning I drilled out the rivets holding the hinge to the frame and re
placed them with number 6 nutplates and screws. It worked very well. The
two things I did is not to fully countersink the hinge for the head of the
screws as its not very thick and its not necessary as there is some clearan
ce when the door is closed. Second I left out the nutplate in the middle o
f the frame as it inteferes with the longeron. The longeron could be trimm
ed slightly at this location and the nutplate added if one deems this neces
sary as it ends at this location i.e. there can't be any load in it. Overa
ll it took 2 hrs. Another item that makes is relatively fast is that since
the nutplate holes are considerably larger than the existing #3 rivet hole
s drilling out the rivets goes considerably faster as one does not have to
be as carefull.=0A =0ANiko=0A40188=0A=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----
=0AFrom: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com=0AS
ent: Wednesday, November 8, 2006 10:38:19 AM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: Bagg
avis@cox.net>=0A=0ANiko. I wasn't as smart as Rick, and didn't think of his
options. I =0Afound out that I had a clearance issue after I recessed the
hinge more =0Athan the plans allowed for. I ended up removing some of the f
use skin in =0Athe fwd upper corner sufficient to allow for pin insertion a
nd removal =0Awhen the door is open. As you will see from the pic in the li
nk, it =0Aleaves a small gap, that I will close by pro-sealing a piece of ,
032 to =0Athe top corner of the baggage door, so that when it's closed, the
gap =0Awill close also.=0A=0Ahttp://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2034%20Baggage
%20Door/slides/DSC02782.html=0A=0ADeems Davis # 406=0AFinishing - ( A Misno
mer ! )=0Ahttp://deemsrv10.com/=0A=0ANikolaos Napoli wrote:=0A=0A> Well I l
ooked at method number 1 this morning and I don't think its =0A> such a goo
d idea. The hole would have to be riding the radius of the =0A> longeron.
Thats not such a good thing. I think I will use methond =0A> #2. Its als
o possible to remove the door and use method 2 later on by =0A> simply dril
ling out the rivets (door frame to hinge) =0A> =0A> Niko=0A> 40188=0A>=0A>
----- Original Message ----=0A> From: Nikolaos Napoli <owl40188@yahoo.com>
=0A> To: rv10-list@matronics.com=0A> Sent: Monday, November 6, 2006 3:16:10
PM=0A> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge=0A>=0A> Rick=0A> =0A> T
hose are good ideas. I will try #1.=0A> =0A> =0A> Do not archive=0A>
=0A> Thanks again for all the responses.=0A> =0A>=0A> Niko=0A>=0A> 40182
=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A> ----- Original Message ----=0A> From: Rick Gray <rickgray@
roadrunner.com>=0A> To: rv10-list@matronics.com=0A> Sent: Monday, November
6, 2006 1:25:09 PM=0A> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge=0A>=0A> O
K....here's 2 options that I came up with that will allow EASY =0A> removal
of the door with NO RISK of scratching the paint on the airplane:=0A> =0A
> 1-install the cabin side of the hinge with platenuts....when/if you =0A>
need to remove the door you simply remove the platenut screws and the =0A>
door comes off WITH BOTH SIDES of the hinge....savvy??=0A> =0A> 2-drill a
3/32 hole in the longeron ABOVE the hinge pin. Make the pin =0A> longer tha
n it needs to be and you can easily remove the pin from =0A> INSIDE the air
plane. The small portion of the pin inside can be =0A> 'dressed up', hidden
, or covered by the headliner...your =0A> choice.....savvy??=0A> =0A> Eith
er option above allows you to recess the hinge more than the =0A> plans....
read: your hinge is NOT hangin' out in the breeze. Again...NO =0A> CHANCE o
f scratching airplane paint.=0A> =0A> I chose option 2 and am very pleased
with the result.=0A> =0A> No charge for this one :^).=0A> =0A> Rick in O
hio at the Buffalo Farm - too many projects to list - RV10 =0A> nearing com
pletion=0A> http://rv6rick.tripod.com/ohiovalleyrvators/=0A>=0A> -----
Original Message -----=0A> *From:* Nikolaos Napoli <mailto:owl40188@yah
oo.com>=0A> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.c
om>=0A> *Sent:* Monday, November 06, 2006 11:46 AM=0A> *Subject:* R
e: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge=0A>=0A> =0A> Jesse and Rob thanks
yor your replies=0A> =0A> It looked like I would have an easier t
ime inserting the pin from=0A> the bottom rather than the top, however,
obviously this would not=0A> be acceptable as the pin could fall out d
uring flight. My=0A> hinge does stick out just a slight bit but it sti
cks out about the=0A> same amount top and bottom. I didn't see anythin
g in the manual=0A> talking about this. Well I can always cut the hing
e if I need to=0A> take it out. Maybe a light thinning of the diameter
and some=0A> lubricating oil would get it in/out. =0A> =0A> T
hanks=0A> =0A>=0A> Niko=0A>=0A> 40188=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A> ----
- Original Message ----=0A> From: Jesse Saint <jesse@itecusa.org>=0A>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com=0A> Sent: Monday, November 6, 2006 10:01
:35 AM=0A> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge=0A>=0A> The d
esign and the plans have it so the top of the hinge sticks=0A> out just
a little bit so you can pull the pin from the top. It is=0A> all sits
flush, you will have a very hard time removing the pin,=0A> which is w
hat you are saying, I think. You might want to check=0A> the plans and
make sure you didn=A2t misread the way you were=0A> supposed to instal
l it.=0A>=0A> =0A>=0A> Jesse Saint=0A>=0A> I-TEC, Inc.=0A>=0A>
jesse@itecusa.org <mailto:jesse@itecusa.org>=0A>=0A> www.itecusa.o
rg <http://www.itecusa.org/>=0A>=0A> W: 352-465-4545=0A>=0A> C: 352
-427-0285=0A>=0A> -----------------------------------------------------
-------------------=0A>=0A> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.co
m=0A> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of=0A>
*Nikolaos Napoli=0A> *Sent:* Monday, November 06, 2006 9:40 AM=0A>
*To:* Matronics=0A> *Subject:* RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge=0A>=0A>
=0A>=0A> I was going to rivet the Baggage Door Hinge Frame to the
Side=0A> Skins this weekend and noticed that once I do this it will be
=0A> difficult to install the door and get the door hinge wire in=0A>
place. It looks like on my installation once the door is=0A> instal
led one can't pull out the hinge wire. In fact I need to=0A> install t
he door hinge wire and door prior to riveting the door=0A> hinge frame.
Is this typicall to what other builders experienced?=0A>=0A> =0A>=0A
> thanks=0A> =0A>=0A> Niko=0A>=0A> 40188=0A>=0A>* *=0A>
=0A>* *=0A>=0A>**=0A>=0A>**=0A>=0A>**=0A>=0A>*www.aeroelectric.com*=0A>=0A
>*www.kitlog.com*=0A>=0A>**=0A>=0A>**=0A>=0A>**=0A>=0A>**=0A>=0A>*http://ww
w.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*=0A>=0A>*=0A> *=0A>=0A> -- Release
Date: 11/4/2006=0A>=0A> --=0A> No virus found in this outgoing mes
sage.=0A> 11/4/2006=0A>=0A>*www.aeroelbuildersbooks.com/"; target=_bl
ank rel=nofollow>www.buildersbooks.comwwA href="http://www.matronics.co
m/Navigator?RV10-List"; target=_blank rel========0A>=0A> <h
ttp://www.homebuilthelp.com/>*=0A>=0A>=0A> <http://www.homebuilthelp.co
m/>=0A>=0A>*=0A>=0A>href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.c
om* <http://www.homebuilthelp.com/>=0A>*href="http://www.buildersbooks.co
m">www.buildersbooks.com>=0A>href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com>
=0A>href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com>=0A>href=
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Nav
igator?RV10-List=0A>=0A>*=0A>=0A>*www.aeroelectric.com=0A>eroware Enterpris
es www.homebuilthelp./www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"; target=_bla
nk rel=nofollow>http===0A>=0A> <http://www.kitlog.com/>*=0A>=0A>=0A>
<http://www.kitlog.com/>=0A>=0A>*www.aeroelectric.com< * Aeroware Enterpr
ises * <http://www.kitlog.com/>*www.homebuilt//www.matronics.com/Navigator?
RV10-List"; target=_blank rel=nofollow>htt===0A>=0A> <http://www.ki
================
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Baggage Door Hinge |
Niko,
I would love to see some photos, if possible.
David Maib
40559
On Nov 9, 2006, at 9:02 AM, Nikolaos Napoli wrote:
This morning I drilled out the rivets holding the hinge to the frame
and replaced them with number 6 nutplates and screws. It worked very
well. The two things I did is not to fully countersink the hinge for
the head of the screws as its not very thick and its not necessary as
there is some clearance when the door is closed. Second I left out
the nutplate in the middle of the frame as it inteferes with the
longeron. The longeron could be trimmed slightly at this location
and the nutplate added if one deems this necessary as it ends at this
location i.e. there can't be any load in it. Overall it took 2 hrs.
Another item that makes is relatively fast is that since the nutplate
holes are considerably larger than the existing #3 rivet holes
drilling out the rivets goes considerably faster as one does not have
to be as carefull.
Niko
40188
----- Original Message ----
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 8, 2006 10:38:19 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge
Niko. I wasn't as smart as Rick, and didn't think of his options. I
found out that I had a clearance issue after I recessed the hinge more
than the plans allowed for. I ended up removing some of the fuse skin in
the fwd upper corner sufficient to allow for pin insertion and removal
when the door is open. As you will see from the pic in the link, it
leaves a small gap, that I will close by pro-sealing a piece of ,032 to
the top corner of the baggage door, so that when it's closed, the gap
will close also.
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2034%20Baggage%20Door/slides/
DSC02782.html
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
Nikolaos Napoli wrote:
> Well I looked at method number 1 this morning and I don't think its
> such a good idea. The hole would have to be riding the radius of the
> longeron. Thats not such a good thing. I think I will use methond
> #2. Its also possible to remove the door and use method 2 later
on by
> simply drilling out the rivets (door frame to hinge)
>
> Niko
> 40188
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Nikolaos Napoli <owl40188@yahoo.com>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, November 6, 2006 3:16:10 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge
>
> Rick
>
> Those are good ideas. I will try #1.
>
>
> Do not archive
>
> Thanks again for all the responses.
>
>
> Niko
>
> 40182
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Rick Gray <rickgray@roadrunner.com>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, November 6, 2006 1:25:09 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge
>
> OK....here's 2 options that I came up with that will allow EASY
> removal of the door with NO RISK of scratching the paint on the
airplane:
>
> 1-install the cabin side of the hinge with platenuts....when/if you
> need to remove the door you simply remove the platenut screws and the
> door comes off WITH BOTH SIDES of the hinge....savvy??
>
> 2-drill a 3/32 hole in the longeron ABOVE the hinge pin. Make the pin
> longer than it needs to be and you can easily remove the pin from
> INSIDE the airplane. The small portion of the pin inside can be
> 'dressed up', hidden, or covered by the headliner...your
> choice.....savvy??
>
> Either option above allows you to recess the hinge more than the
> plans....read: your hinge is NOT hangin' out in the breeze.
Again...NO
> CHANCE of scratching airplane paint.
>
> I chose option 2 and am very pleased with the result.
>
> No charge for this one :^).
>
> Rick in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm - too many projects to list - RV10
> nearing completion
> http://rv6rick.tripod.com/ohiovalleyrvators/
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Nikolaos Napoli <mailto:owl40188@yahoo.com>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Monday, November 06, 2006 11:46 AM
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge
>
>
> Jesse and Rob thanks yor your replies
>
> It looked like I would have an easier time inserting the pin from
> the bottom rather than the top, however, obviously this would not
> be acceptable as the pin could fall out during flight. My
> hinge does stick out just a slight bit but it sticks out about
the
> same amount top and bottom. I didn't see anything in the manual
> talking about this. Well I can always cut the hinge if I need to
> take it out. Maybe a light thinning of the diameter and some
> lubricating oil would get it in/out.
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Niko
>
> 40188
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Jesse Saint <jesse@itecusa.org>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, November 6, 2006 10:01:35 AM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge
>
> The design and the plans have it so the top of the hinge sticks
> out just a little bit so you can pull the pin from the top.
It is
> all sits flush, you will have a very hard time removing the pin,
> which is what you are saying, I think. You might want to check
> the plans and make sure you didn=92t misread the way you were
> supposed to install it.
>
>
>
> Jesse Saint
>
> I-TEC, Inc.
>
> jesse@itecusa.org <mailto:jesse@itecusa.org>
>
> www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
>
> W: 352-465-4545
>
> C: 352-427-0285
>
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *Nikolaos Napoli
> *Sent:* Monday, November 06, 2006 9:40 AM
> *To:* Matronics
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge
>
>
>
> I was going to rivet the Baggage Door Hinge Frame to the Side
> Skins this weekend and noticed that once I do this it will be
> difficult to install the door and get the door hinge wire in
> place. It looks like on my installation once the door is
> installed one can't pull out the hinge wire. In fact I need to
> install the door hinge wire and door prior to riveting the door
> hinge frame. Is this typicall to what other builders
experienced?
>
>
>
> thanks
>
>
> Niko
>
> 40188
>
>* *
>
>* *
>
>**
>
>**
>
>**
>
>*www.aeroelectric.com*
>
>*www.kitlog.com*
>
>**
>
>**
>
>**
>
>**
>
>*http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
>*
> *
>
> -- Release Date: 11/4/2006
>
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> 11/4/2006
>
>*www.aeroelbuildersbooks.com/"; target=_blank
rel=nofollow>www.buildersbooks.comwwA href="http://www.matronics.com/
Navigator?RV10-List"; target=_blank rel======
>
> <http://www.homebuilthelp.com/>*
>
>
> <http://www.homebuilthelp.com/>
>
>*
>
>href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com* <http://
www.homebuilthelp.com/>
>*href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com>
>href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com>
>href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com>
>href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://
www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>*
>
>*www.aeroelectric.com
>eroware Enterprises www.homebuilthelp./www.matronics.com/Navigator?
RV10-List"; target=_blank rel=nofollow>http=
>
> <http://www.kitlog.com/>*
>
>
> <http://www.kitlog.com/>
>
>*www.aeroelectric.com< * Aeroware Enterprises * <http://
www.kitlog.com/>*www.homebuilt//www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-
List"; target=_blank rel=nofollow>htt=
>
> <http://www.kitlog.com/>*
&g -- Please Support Your bsp; * The Builder's Bookstore
www.homebbsp; -Matt Dralle, sp; - The
RV10-List Email Fom/Navigator?RV10-List" ========
(And
--
=========
Message 12
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|
| Subject: | Re: Priming - Sherwin Williams DTM |
Where'd you get the SW DTM primer? I've been looking for something a
little less caustic, particularly since winter is looming over the
midwest and my garage door will have to be mostly closed from now until
March.
I'm no expert but I think if you can't see underneath the primer, it's
probably too thick. Unless you're planning to paint over it, you're
goal is to put down an extra layer of corrosion protection. Ideally you
want to achieve that aim with the minimum amount weight gain so the
thinner the better - at least for parts that'll likely never be touched
again.
-Brian
#40497
Iowa City, IA
------ Original Message -----
From: Les Kearney
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 6:45 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Priming - Sherwin Williams DTM
Hi All
A few weeks ago I asked about priming. After a lot of thought, I
decided against most of the products currently in use primarily because
I didn't want to use really noxious chemicals in an attached garage. As
well, volatile hydrocarbons may have been interesting to use in the
presence of a natgas garage heater.
The product I decided to use is Sherwin Williams DTM (direct to metal)
primer. It is water based and not as chemically interesting as other
products. Today was day 2 of construction and my first experience with
priming. I found the DTM easy to use with a standard air sprayer. Odor
wise, it wasn't all that bad although I did use a cartridge air mask
just to be safe as it was too cold to do this outside. It takes only a
couple of hours to dry and seems to be reasonably scratch resistant.
Can any of the primer experts on the list provide guidance as to how
thick primer should be applied? Looking at the results of my work, it is
apparent that I wasn't consistent in the application. Some parts seemed
to have a much heaver coat than others. On some parts the primer is
translucent while on others it covers completely. My feeling is that I
should go lighter rather than heavier but am not sure.
Comments? Suggestions?
Inquiring minds need to know .
Les Kearney
#40643 - Day 2 of long journey
Message 13
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|
| Subject: | Rudder Pedal Bolt Direction |
Has everyone been reversing the rudder pedal bolt directions from those sho
wn in the plans per what Randy had to do. I tried this and didn't like the
results as the nut touches the steel tube pedal frame as it rotates. Addi
tionally its difficult to put the cotter pin on as there isn't much room.
I am thinking of leaving it per the plans and checking the cotter pins in t
he preflight. Any suggestions / comments.=0A =0ANiko=0A40188
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Re: Baggage Door Hinge |
Hey Niko....GREAT JOB!! Now you'll be able to remove the door for paint
or any 'other' reason without scratching any paint :^).
I'll also mention that if you were to slightly elongate the holes
(vertically) in the cabin side of the hinge you'll be able to 'adjust'
the fit of your door now that you have the nutplates. Many doors are
hanging a little low....this gives you an option to put the door where
you want it and take out any error that may have occurred when drilling
the initial holes..... not that we make errors :^).
Glad this worked out for you and thanks for reporting back!
For the archives
Rick in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
http://rv6rick.tripod.com/ohiovalleyrvators/
----- Original Message -----
From: Nikolaos Napoli
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 10:02 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge
This morning I drilled out the rivets holding the hinge to the frame
and replaced them with number 6 nutplates and screws. It worked very
well. The two things I did is not to fully countersink the hinge for
the head of the screws as its not very thick and its not necessary as
there is some clearance when the door is closed. Second I left out the
nutplate in the middle of the frame as it inteferes with the longeron.
The longeron could be trimmed slightly at this location and the nutplate
added if one deems this necessary as it ends at this location i.e. there
can't be any load in it. Overall it took 2 hrs. Another item that
makes is relatively fast is that since the nutplate holes are
considerably larger than the existing #3 rivet holes drilling out the
rivets goes considerably faster as one does not have to be as carefull.
Niko
40188
----- Original Message ----
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 8, 2006 10:38:19 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge
Niko. I wasn't as smart as Rick, and didn't think of his options. I
found out that I had a clearance issue after I recessed the hinge more
than the plans allowed for. I ended up removing some of the fuse skin
in
the fwd upper corner sufficient to allow for pin insertion and removal
when the door is open. As you will see from the pic in the link, it
leaves a small gap, that I will close by pro-sealing a piece of ,032
to
the top corner of the baggage door, so that when it's closed, the gap
will close also.
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2034%20Baggage%20Door/slides/DSC02782.html
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
Nikolaos Napoli wrote:
> Well I looked at method number 1 this morning and I don't think its
> such a good idea. The hole would have to be riding the radius of
the
> longeron. Thats not such a good thing. I think I will use methond
> #2. Its also possible to remove the door and use method 2 later on
by
> simply drilling out the rivets (door frame to hinge)
>
> Niko
> 40188
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Nikolaos Napoli <owl40188@yahoo.com>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, November 6, 2006 3:16:10 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge
>
> Rick
>
> Those are good ideas. I will try #1.
>
>
> Do not archive
>
> Thanks again for all the responses.
>
>
> Niko
>
> 40182
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Rick Gray <rickgray@roadrunner.com>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, November 6, 2006 1:25:09 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge
>
> OK....here's 2 options that I came up with that will allow EASY
> removal of the door with NO RISK of scratching the paint on the
airplane:
>
> 1-install the cabin side of the hinge with platenuts....when/if you
> need to remove the door you simply remove the platenut screws and
the
> door comes off WITH BOTH SIDES of the hinge....savvy??
>
> 2-drill a 3/32 hole in the longeron ABOVE the hinge pin. Make the
pin
> longer than it needs to be and you can easily remove the pin from
> INSIDE the airplane. The small portion of the pin inside can be
> 'dressed up', hidden, or covered by the headliner...your
> choice.....savvy??
>
> Either option above allows you to recess the hinge more than the
> plans....read: your hinge is NOT hangin' out in the breeze.
Again...NO
> CHANCE of scratching airplane paint.
>
> I chose option 2 and am very pleased with the result.
>
> No charge for this one :^).
>
> Rick in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm - too many projects to list - RV10
> nearing completion
> http://rv6rick.tripod.com/ohiovalleyrvators/
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Nikolaos Napoli <mailto:owl40188@yahoo.com>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Monday, November 06, 2006 11:46 AM
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge
>
>
> Jesse and Rob thanks yor your replies
>
> It looked like I would have an easier time inserting the pin
from
> the bottom rather than the top, however, obviously this would
not
> be acceptable as the pin could fall out during flight. My
> hinge does stick out just a slight bit but it sticks out about
the
> same amount top and bottom. I didn't see anything in the manual
> talking about this. Well I can always cut the hinge if I need
to
> take it out. Maybe a light thinning of the diameter and some
> lubricating oil would get it in/out.
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Niko
>
> 40188
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Jesse Saint <jesse@itecusa.org>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, November 6, 2006 10:01:35 AM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge
>
> The design and the plans have it so the top of the hinge sticks
> out just a little bit so you can pull the pin from the top. It
is
> all sits flush, you will have a very hard time removing the pin,
> which is what you are saying, I think. You might want to check
> the plans and make sure you didn=A2t misread the way you were
> supposed to install it.
>
>
>
> Jesse Saint
>
> I-TEC, Inc.
>
> jesse@itecusa.org <mailto:jesse@itecusa.org>
>
> www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
>
> W: 352-465-4545
>
> C: 352-427-0285
>
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *Nikolaos Napoli
> *Sent:* Monday, November 06, 2006 9:40 AM
> *To:* Matronics
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge
>
>
>
> I was going to rivet the Baggage Door Hinge Frame to the Side
> Skins this weekend and noticed that once I do this it will be
> difficult to install the door and get the door hinge wire in
> place. It looks like on my installation once the door is
> installed one can't pull out the hinge wire. In fact I need to
> install the door hinge wire and door prior to riveting the door
> hinge frame. Is this typicall to what other builders
experienced?
>
>
>
> thanks
>
>
> Niko
>
> 40188
>
>* *
>
>* *
>
>**
>
>**
>
>**
>
>*www.aeroelectric.com*
>
>*www.kitlog.com*
>
>**
>
>**
>
>**
>
>**
>
>*http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
>*
> *
>
> -- Release Date: 11/4/2006
>
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> 11/4/2006
>
>*www.aeroelbuildersbooks.com/"; target=_blank
rel=nofollow>www.buildersbooks.comwwA
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"; target=_blank
rel======
>
> <http://www.homebuilthelp.com/>*
>
>
> <http://www.homebuilthelp.com/>
>
>*
>
>href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com*
<http://www.homebuilthelp.com/>
>*href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com>
>href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com>
>href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com>
>href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matroni
cs.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>*
>
>*www.aeroelectric.com
>eroware Enterprises
www.homebuilthelp./www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List";
target=_blank rel=nofollow>http=
>
> <http://www.kitlog.com/>*
>
>
> <http://www.kitlog.com/>
>
>*www.aeroelectric.com< * Aeroware Enterprises *
<http://www.kitlog.com/>*www.homebuilt//www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-
List"; target=_blank rel=nofollow>htt=
>
> <http://www.kitlog.com/>*
&g -- Please Support Your bsp; * The Builder's Bookstore
www.homebbsp; -Matt Dralle, sp; - The
RV10-List Email Fom/Navigator?RV10-List" ========
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedal Bolt Direction |
I put mine on with the nuts toward the tunnel during the inspection,
but reversed them after that, and just did a good job cleaning up
the cotter pins so they can't snag. Yes, the nuts face your shoes,
but no, I don't see it as a big issue and I've never had anything
even remotely be a problem with it.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Nikolaos Napoli wrote:
> Has everyone been reversing the rudder pedal bolt directions from those
> shown in the plans per what Randy had to do. I tried this and didn't
> like the results as the nut touches the steel tube pedal frame as it
> rotates. Additionally its difficult to put the cotter pin on as there
> isn't much room. I am thinking of leaving it per the plans and checking
> the cotter pins in the preflight. Any suggestions / comments.
>
>
> Niko
>
> 40188
>
> *
Message 16
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| Subject: | Priming - Sherwin Williams DTM |
Brian
I think you are right about the thickness. I have only done a few parts
so
far (the vertical stab skeleton) so it is not really an issue - just a
lesson learned. I plan to just "mist" parts from now on so that I just
have
a thin primer film.
I bought the paint from a Sherwin Williams outlet store. It is called SW
DTM
and can be found on their website at :
http://makeashorterlink.com/?C1864622E
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643 - Day 3 of long journey
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Douglas
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 8:38 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Priming - Sherwin Williams DTM
Where'd you get the SW DTM primer? I've been looking for something a
little
less caustic, particularly since winter is looming over the midwest and
my
garage door will have to be mostly closed from now until March.
I'm no expert but I think if you can't see underneath the primer, it's
probably too thick. Unless you're planning to paint over it, you're
goal is
to put down an extra layer of corrosion protection. Ideally you want to
achieve that aim with the minimum amount weight gain so the thinner the
better - at least for parts that'll likely never be touched again.
-Brian
#40497
Iowa City, IA
------ Original Message -----
From: Les Kearney <mailto:kearney@shaw.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 6:45 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Priming - Sherwin Williams DTM
Hi All
A few weeks ago I asked about priming. After a lot of thought, I decided
against most of the products currently in use primarily because I didn't
want to use really noxious chemicals in an attached garage. As well,
volatile hydrocarbons may have been interesting to use in the presence
of a
natgas garage heater.
The product I decided to use is Sherwin Williams DTM (direct to metal)
primer. It is water based and not as chemically interesting as other
products. Today was day 2 of construction and my first experience with
priming. I found the DTM easy to use with a standard air sprayer. Odor
wise,
it wasn't all that bad although I did use a cartridge air mask just to
be
safe as it was too cold to do this outside. It takes only a couple of
hours
to dry and seems to be reasonably scratch resistant.
Can any of the primer experts on the list provide guidance as to how
thick
primer should be applied? Looking at the results of my work, it is
apparent
that I wasn't consistent in the application. Some parts seemed to have a
much heaver coat than others. On some parts the primer is translucent
while
on others it covers completely. My feeling is that I should go lighter
rather than heavier but am not sure.
Comments? Suggestions?
Inquiring minds need to know .
Les Kearney
#40643 - Day 2 of long journey
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
Message 17
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| Subject: | Rudder Pedal Bolt Direction |
I liked the idea of doing it as in the plans and just putting heat shrink
over the nut and cotter pin so that it can not catch on the shoe. But I
have not gotten to that type of finish work yet, it is on my very
longggggggggg to do list.
Rene' Felker
40322
Finish kit and more..
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos Napoli
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 8:55 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Pedal Bolt Direction
Has everyone been reversing the rudder pedal bolt directions from those
shown in the plans per what Randy had to do. I tried this and didn't like
the results as the nut touches the steel tube pedal frame as it rotates.
Additionally its difficult to put the cotter pin on as there isn't much
room. I am thinking of leaving it per the plans and checking the cotter
pins in the preflight. Any suggestions / comments.
Niko
40188
Message 18
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| Subject: | Fuel Injection 101 |
To Dick Sipp;
I glad you were able to attend the recent class on fuel injection. For
us that are still putting together the slow build wings, what do you
consider are the benefits of going fuel injected? I'm concerned about
initial cost, complexity, more to go wrong in flight, continued
mantainence issues. I do understand that there is a fuel consumption
saving and more efficiency.
Thoughts?
Thanks
Fred Williams
slow build wings. Just past getting the tanks done. Yea! no more pro
seal for a while.
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Baggage Door Hinge |
David,=0A=0AI will take some pictures tonight and send them.=0A=0ADo not ar
chive=0A=0ANiko=0A40188=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: David M
aib <dmaib@mac.com>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Thursday, Novembe
r 9, 2006 10:23:32 AM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge=0A=0ANik
o,=0AI would love to see some photos, if possible.=0A=0A=0ADavid Maib=0A405
59=0A=0A=0AOn Nov 9, 2006, at 9:02 AM, Nikolaos Napoli wrote:=0A=0A=0AThis
morning I drilled out the rivets holding the hinge to the frame and replace
d them with number 6 nutplates and screws. It worked very well. The two t
hings I did is not to fully countersink the hinge for the head of the screw
s as its not very thick and its not necessary as there is some clearance wh
en the door is closed. Second I left out the nutplate in the middle of the
frame as it inteferes with the longeron. The longeron could be trimmed sl
ightly at this location and the nutplate added if one deems this necessary
as it ends at this location i.e. there can't be any load in it. Overall it
took 2 hrs. Another item that makes is relatively fast is that since the
nutplate holes are considerably larger than the existing #3 rivet holes dri
lling out the rivets goes considerably faster as one does not have to be as
carefull.=0A =0ANiko=0A40188=0A=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom
: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com=0ASent: We
dnesday, November 8, 2006 10:38:19 AM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: Baggage Doo
x.net>=0A=0ANiko. I wasn't as smart as Rick, and didn't think of his option
s. I =0Afound out that I had a clearance issue after I recessed the hinge m
ore =0Athan the plans allowed for. I ended up removing some of the fuse ski
n in =0Athe fwd upper corner sufficient to allow for pin insertion and remo
val =0Awhen the door is open. As you will see from the pic in the link, it
=0Aleaves a small gap, that I will close by pro-sealing a piece of ,032 to
=0Athe top corner of the baggage door, so that when it's closed, the gap
=0Awill close also.=0A=0Ahttp://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2034%20Baggage%20Do
or/slides/DSC02782.html=0A=0ADeems Davis # 406=0AFinishing - ( A Misnomer !
)=0Ahttp://deemsrv10.com/=0A=0ANikolaos Napoli wrote:=0A=0A> Well I looked
at method number 1 this morning and I don't think its =0A> such a good ide
a. The hole would have to be riding the radius of the =0A> longeron. That
s not such a good thing. I think I will use methond =0A> #2. Its also pos
sible to remove the door and use method 2 later on by =0A> simply drilling
out the rivets (door frame to hinge) =0A> =0A> Niko=0A> 40188=0A>=0A> ----
- Original Message ----=0A> From: Nikolaos Napoli <owl40188@yahoo.com>=0A>
=0A> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge=0A>=0A> Rick=0A> =0A> Thos
e are good ideas. I will try #1.=0A> =0A> =0A> Do not archive=0A> =0A>
Thanks again for all the responses.=0A> =0A>=0A> Niko=0A>=0A> 40182=0A>=0A
>=0A>=0A> ----- Original Message ----=0A> From: Rick Gray <rickgray@roadrun
ner.com>=0A> To: rv10-list@matronics.com=0A> Sent: Monday, November 6, 2006
1:25:09 PM=0A> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge=0A>=0A> OK....he
re's 2 options that I came up with that will allow EASY =0A> removal of the
door with NO RISK of scratching the paint on the airplane:=0A> =0A> 1-ins
tall the cabin side of the hinge with platenuts....when/if you =0A> need to
remove the door you simply remove the platenut screws and the =0A> door co
mes off WITH BOTH SIDES of the hinge....savvy??=0A> =0A> 2-drill a 3/32 ho
le in the longeron ABOVE the hinge pin. Make the pin =0A> longer than it ne
eds to be and you can easily remove the pin from =0A> INSIDE the airplane.
The small portion of the pin inside can be =0A> 'dressed up', hidden, or co
vered by the headliner...your =0A> choice.....savvy??=0A> =0A> Either opti
on above allows you to recess the hinge more than the =0A> plans....read: y
our hinge is NOT hangin' out in the breeze. Again...NO =0A> CHANCE of scrat
ching airplane paint.=0A> =0A> I chose option 2 and am very pleased with t
he result.=0A> =0A> No charge for this one :^).=0A> =0A> Rick in Ohio at
the Buffalo Farm - too many projects to list - RV10 =0A> nearing completion
=0A> http://rv6rick.tripod.com/ohiovalleyrvators/=0A>=0A> ----- Origina
l Message -----=0A> *From:* Nikolaos Napoli <mailto:owl40188@yahoo.com>
=0A> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>=0A>
*Sent:* Monday, November 06, 2006 11:46 AM=0A> *Subject:* Re: RV10
-List: Baggage Door Hinge=0A>=0A> =0A> Jesse and Rob thanks yor yo
ur replies=0A> =0A> It looked like I would have an easier time ins
erting the pin from=0A> the bottom rather than the top, however, obviou
sly this would not=0A> be acceptable as the pin could fall out during f
light. My=0A> hinge does stick out just a slight bit but it sticks out
about the=0A> same amount top and bottom. I didn't see anything in th
e manual=0A> talking about this. Well I can always cut the hinge if I
need to=0A> take it out. Maybe a light thinning of the diameter and so
me=0A> lubricating oil would get it in/out. =0A> =0A> Thanks
=0A> =0A>=0A> Niko=0A>=0A> 40188=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A> ----- Ori
ginal Message ----=0A> From: Jesse Saint <jesse@itecusa.org>=0A> To
: rv10-list@matronics.com=0A> Sent: Monday, November 6, 2006 10:01:35 A
M=0A> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge=0A>=0A> The design
and the plans have it so the top of the hinge sticks=0A> out just a li
ttle bit so you can pull the pin from the top. It is=0A> all sits flus
h, you will have a very hard time removing the pin,=0A> which is what y
ou are saying, I think. You might want to check=0A> the plans and make
sure you didn=A2t misread the way you were=0A> supposed to install it.
=0A>=0A> =0A>=0A> Jesse Saint=0A>=0A> I-TEC, Inc.=0A>=0A>
jesse@itecusa.org <mailto:jesse@itecusa.org>=0A>=0A> www.itecusa.org <h
ttp://www.itecusa.org/>=0A>=0A> W: 352-465-4545=0A>=0A> C: 352-427-
0285=0A>=0A> ----------------------------------------------------------
--------------=0A>=0A> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com=0A>
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of=0A> *N
ikolaos Napoli=0A> *Sent:* Monday, November 06, 2006 9:40 AM=0A> *T
o:* Matronics=0A> *Subject:* RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge=0A>=0A>
=0A>=0A> I was going to rivet the Baggage Door Hinge Frame to the Side
=0A> Skins this weekend and noticed that once I do this it will be=0A>
difficult to install the door and get the door hinge wire in=0A> pl
ace. It looks like on my installation once the door is=0A> installed o
ne can't pull out the hinge wire. In fact I need to=0A> install the do
or hinge wire and door prior to riveting the door=0A> hinge frame. Is
this typicall to what other builders experienced?=0A>=0A> =0A>=0A>
thanks=0A> =0A>=0A> Niko=0A>=0A> 40188=0A>=0A>* *=0A>=0A>*
*=0A>=0A>**=0A>=0A>**=0A>=0A>**=0A>=0A>*www.aeroelectric.com*=0A>=0A>*www.k
itlog.com*=0A>=0A>**=0A>=0A>**=0A>=0A>**=0A>=0A>**=0A>=0A>*http://www.matro
nics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*=0A>=0A>*=0A> *=0A>=0A> -- Release Date:
11/4/2006=0A>=0A> --=0A> No virus found in this outgoing message.
=0A> 11/4/2006=0A>=0A>*www.aeroelbuildersbooks.com/"; target=_blank r
el=nofollow>www.buildersbooks.comwwA href="http://www.matronics.com/Nav
igator?RV10-List"; target=_blank rel========0A>=0A> <http:/
/www.homebuilthelp.com/>*=0A>=0A>=0A> <http://www.homebuilthelp.com/>
=0A>=0A>*=0A>=0A>href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com*
<http://www.homebuilthelp.com/>=0A>*href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">
www.buildersbooks.com>=0A>href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com>=0A
>href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com>=0A>href="ht
tp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List" target="_blank">http://www.ma
tronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Li
st=0A>=0A>*=0A>=0A>*www.aeroelectric.com=0A>eroware Enterprises www.homebui
lthelp./www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"; target=_blank rel=nofol
low>http===0A>=0A> <http://www.kitlog.com/>*=0A>=0A>=0A> <http://www.ki
tlog.com/>=0A>=0A>*www.aeroelectric.com< * Aeroware Enterprises * <http:/
/www.kitlog.com/>*www.homebuilt//www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"; ta
rget=_blank rel=nofollow>htt===0A>=0A> <http://www.kitlog.com/>*=0A
&g -- Please Support Your bsp; * The Builder's Bookstore www.homebbsp;
-Matt Dralle, sp; - The RV10-List Email Fom/Navi
gator?RV10-List" ==========0A=0A=0A -- Please Suppor
t Your Lists (And Get Some AWESOME FREE November is the Annual Li
st Fund Raiser. Click class="Apple-converted-space"> the Contribution li
nk below to this year's Terrific class="Apple-converted-space"> *
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sbooks.com * Aeroware Enterprises www.kitlog.com * HomebuiltHELP www.
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Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Priming - Sherwin Williams DTM |
I was wondering what you did to prep before paint? I am getting ready to pai
nt my VIirticle tail this weekend. I am using dipping in Alidine before apply
ing a self etching primer called SME.
Michael Chase
40644
--------------------------
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----- Original Message -----
From: owner-rv10-list-server
Sent: 11/09/2006 11:29 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Priming - Sherwin Williams DTM
Brian
I think you are right about the thickness. I have only done a few parts so
far (the vertical stab skeleton) so it is not really an issue - just a
lesson learned. I plan to just "mist" parts from now on so that I just have
a thin primer film.
I bought the paint from a Sherwin Williams outlet store. It is called SW DTM
and can be found on their website at :
http://makeashorterlink.com/?C1864622E
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643 - Day 3 of long journey
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Douglas
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 8:38 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Priming - Sherwin Williams DTM
Where'd you get the SW DTM primer? I've been looking for something a little
less caustic, particularly since winter is looming over the midwest and my
garage door will have to be mostly closed from now until March.
I'm no expert but I think if you can't see underneath the primer, it's
probably too thick. Unless you're planning to paint over it, you're goal is
to put down an extra layer of corrosion protection. Ideally you want to
achieve that aim with the minimum amount weight gain so the thinner the
better - at least for parts that'll likely never be touched again.
-Brian
#40497
Iowa City, IA
------ Original Message -----
From: Les Kearney <mailto:kearney@shaw.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 6:45 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Priming - Sherwin Williams DTM
Hi All
A few weeks ago I asked about priming. After a lot of thought, I decided
against most of the products currently in use primarily because I didn't
want to use really noxious chemicals in an attached garage. As well,
volatile hydrocarbons may have been interesting to use in the presence of a
natgas garage heater.
The product I decided to use is Sherwin Williams DTM (direct to metal)
primer. It is water based and not as chemically interesting as other
products. Today was day 2 of construction and my first experience with
priming. I found the DTM easy to use with a standard air sprayer. Odor wise,
it wasn't all that bad although I did use a cartridge air mask just to be
safe as it was too cold to do this outside. It takes only a couple of hours
to dry and seems to be reasonably scratch resistant.
Can any of the primer experts on the list provide guidance as to how thick
primer should be applied? Looking at the results of my work, it is apparent
that I wasn't consistent in the application. Some parts seemed to have a
much heaver coat than others. On some parts the primer is translucent while
on others it covers completely. My feeling is that I should go lighter
rather than heavier but am not sure.
Comments? Suggestions?
Inquiring minds need to know .
Les Kearney
#40643 - Day 2 of long journey
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
Message 21
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| Subject: | Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's |
What opinions are out there regarding which rivets to use to attach the
cabin top to the fuse. I noticed that Tim started out using 426's and
then switched to CS 4-4's. what experience have people had either way.
Do the CS 4-4's interfere with the interior install?.
Additionally, per previous posts regarding cracks and expansion between
metal and fiberglass surfaces, Has anyone used the procedure that
David McNeil posted regarding applying a thin fiberglass tape over the
seam?
inquiring minds want to know.
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
>*
>*
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's |
I used the CS 4-4's and plan on using David's suggestion on covering the
seam. I will let you know how it turns out. I also put in the attach
points for David's seat belts, but have not installed the belts because of
my very slow pace on finishing the inside of the cabin.
Rene' Felker
40322
Finish........
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 12:35 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's
What opinions are out there regarding which rivets to use to attach the
cabin top to the fuse. I noticed that Tim started out using 426's and
then switched to CS 4-4's. what experience have people had either way.
Do the CS 4-4's interfere with the interior install?.
Additionally, per previous posts regarding cracks and expansion between
metal and fiberglass surfaces, Has anyone used the procedure that
David McNeil posted regarding applying a thin fiberglass tape over the
seam?
inquiring minds want to know.
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
>*
>*
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's |
CORRECTION: We are seaming around the windows and the rivet lines in the
cowl to prevent rivet heads from working their way through the finished
paint. We are not using a glass seam to cover the blinds in the lid
attachment along the horizontal edge ----- only -----over the blinds on the
top rear edge. Our goal is to prevent vibration of rivets in glass from
working their way through the paint after a couple hundred hours. Just got a
new camera and will attempt to show what I mean. We did it on my Glastar but
missed a couple of places and it shows.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rene Felker" <rene@felker.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 12:59 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's
>
> I used the CS 4-4's and plan on using David's suggestion on covering the
> seam. I will let you know how it turns out. I also put in the attach
> points for David's seat belts, but have not installed the belts because of
> my very slow pace on finishing the inside of the cabin.
>
> Rene' Felker
> 40322
> Finish........
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 12:35 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's
>
>
> What opinions are out there regarding which rivets to use to attach the
> cabin top to the fuse. I noticed that Tim started out using 426's and
> then switched to CS 4-4's. what experience have people had either way.
> Do the CS 4-4's interfere with the interior install?.
>
> Additionally, per previous posts regarding cracks and expansion between
> metal and fiberglass surfaces, Has anyone used the procedure that
> David McNeil posted regarding applying a thin fiberglass tape over the
> seam?
>
> inquiring minds want to know.
>
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
>>*
>>*
>>
>
>
>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Thoughts after 35 hours |
I now have 35 hours on the RV-10 and everything has gone almost perfect.
I did want to point out the one issue that I did have about 6 hours ago
and it may be something to look at. The tube that attaches on the left
side of the baffles that feeds air to the oil cooler broke during
flight. The ring has about 8 rivets in it but the tube is only tack
welded in a couple of spots. My oil temps are normally around 185 and
then they jumped to 213, it was still getting about =BD the air. Luckily
it was 45 degrees out. I made four small brackets and reattached it so
that it can't break again. That is a pretty weak piece though, you may
want to reinforce to begin with.
My #1 and #2 cylinders are running the hottest. I cut =BC" off the
baffle that covers the #2 cylinder and it made a huge difference. Now
#2 is 20 degrees cooler than #1. I am going to cut the other tonight.
I had a bad Grand Rapids oil pressure sensor that was replaced. It
would read either zero or 99. I hooked up a mechanical sensor and it
showed 65 psi at a high idle so I replaced it. Apparently, they have
had some issues with them so watch for that.
One thing that I absolutely love is the throttle quadrant. I was afraid
that I wouldn't get the fine tuning that I thought push pull controls
give but I find myself pulling the throttle and the prop back together
and I can adjust them much quicker and with more accuracy than the push
pulls. I would highly recommend it if you are on the fence.
The Cheltons are great but so are the Grand Rapids, I will have to write
a side by side comparison as soon as I am more familiar with both. I am
still tweaking the autopilot gains on both and learning the approach
procedures on both. But I am very happy that I have the Cheltons, they
are really nice.
I love how the plane fly's with 3 or 4 people. With two you really need
a little weight in the back to balance it out.
My only problem now is that I can't stop flying long enough to paint the
gear leg fairings.
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's |
What are folks doing about the fiberglass to fuse seam then? It's
cosmetically not very attractive. I would prefer not to leave it open,
And previous posts warned bout filling gaps in dissimilar surfaces with
body filler, due to uneven expansion rates. Why wouldn't the fiberglass
tape technique work for this as well?
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
David McNeill wrote:
>
> CORRECTION: We are seaming around the windows and the rivet lines in
> the cowl to prevent rivet heads from working their way through the
> finished paint. We are not using a glass seam to cover the blinds in
> the lid attachment along the horizontal edge ----- only -----over the
> blinds on the top rear edge. Our goal is to prevent vibration of
> rivets in glass from working their way through the paint after a
> couple hundred hours. Just got a new camera and will attempt to show
> what I mean. We did it on my Glastar but missed a couple of places and
> it shows.
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rene Felker" <rene@felker.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 12:59 PM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's
>
>
>>
>> I used the CS 4-4's and plan on using David's suggestion on covering the
>> seam. I will let you know how it turns out. I also put in the attach
>> points for David's seat belts, but have not installed the belts
>> because of
>> my very slow pace on finishing the inside of the cabin.
>>
>> Rene' Felker
>> 40322
>> Finish........
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
>> Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 12:35 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's
>>
>>
>> What opinions are out there regarding which rivets to use to attach the
>> cabin top to the fuse. I noticed that Tim started out using 426's and
>> then switched to CS 4-4's. what experience have people had either way.
>> Do the CS 4-4's interfere with the interior install?.
>>
>> Additionally, per previous posts regarding cracks and expansion between
>> metal and fiberglass surfaces, Has anyone used the procedure that
>> David McNeil posted regarding applying a thin fiberglass tape over the
>> seam?
>>
>> inquiring minds want to know.
>>
>>
>> Deems Davis # 406
>> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
>> http://deemsrv10.com/
>>
>>
>>> *
>>> *
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Thoughts after 35 hours |
Scott Schmidt wrote:
> I now have 35 hours on the RV-10 and everything has gone almost perfect.
>
>
>
> I did want to point out the one issue that I did have about 6 hours ago
> and it may be something to look at. The tube that attaches on the left
> side of the baffles that feeds air to the oil cooler broke during
> flight. The ring has about 8 rivets in it but the tube is only tack
> welded in a couple of spots. My oil temps are normally around 185 and
> then they jumped to 213, it was still getting about the air. Luckily
> it was 45 degrees out. I made four small brackets and reattached it so
> that it cant break again. That is a pretty weak piece though, you may
> want to reinforce to begin with.
>
>
Thanks for the post on this Scott, you've given me something
else to check on. Haven't had a problem yet, but I better
at least inspect mine.
>
> My #1 and #2 cylinders are running the hottest. I cut off the baffle
> that covers the #2 cylinder and it made a huge difference. Now #2 is 20
> degrees cooler than #1. I am going to cut the other tonight.
>
>
You're finding exactly what I did. Now for more info..... I ended
up cutting a LOT more off than original. I haven't taken any
photos of the latest yet, but I'll describe...
On the outside ends of the plate, I have it trimmed very short,
tapering higher as you go towards the engine. It's maybe 3/8"
tall on the skinny end, and I've probably cut almost half of the
baffle off on the inside now. The top of the cylinder head
is probably the hottest, and those higher up fins didn't get
hardly any airflow with the baffle in place. It's very
hard to describe without photos, so I'll try to remember to take
some and add them to my cooling page soon. Vic removed his
altogether, so don't worry too much about cutting them down
about half of their original size. It improved each time I cut.
Now #1/2/5/6 are all similar.
>
> I had a bad Grand Rapids oil pressure sensor that was replaced. It
> would read either zero or 99. I hooked up a mechanical sensor and it
> showed 65 psi at a high idle so I replaced it. Apparently, they have
> had some issues with them so watch for that.
>
>
I had a bad oil temp probe from them.
>
> One thing that I absolutely love is the throttle quadrant. I was afraid
> that I wouldnt get the fine tuning that I thought push pull controls
> give but I find myself pulling the throttle and the prop back together
> and I can adjust them much quicker and with more accuracy than the push
> pulls. I would highly recommend it if you are on the fence.
>
>
Once again, you're finding EXACTLY the same thing that I did.
People who claim they want push-pulls for better fine tuning
really need to fly the quadrant. It's very superior to
the push-pulls I flew in Van's -10's...wouldn't you agree?
They are awesome, and I can quickly get within 10 RPM, or
.1 or 2 MP, and then a little nudge finishes the job. I am
far more precise flying my quadrant than those dang push
pulls in 220RV that made me look like a bumbling idiot.
Like I said, people might have preconceived notions that
the push pulls are more precise, but FLY THE QUADRANT and
compare to the push pulls from Van's and you'll know.
>
> The Cheltons are great but so are the Grand Rapids, I will have to write
> a side by side comparison as soon as I am more familiar with both. I am
> still tweaking the autopilot gains on both and learning the approach
> procedures on both. But I am very happy that I have the Cheltons, they
> are really nice.
>
>
What can I say....you're only going to get more impressed.
Call me some night and I'll fill you in on some more neat
stuff. Like try the MENU - PEAKS ON using the engine page,
and then lean to peak once. Also, MENU - FUNCTION (or is it
FORMAT...the top one) and don't choose MAP, but try the
other options...there's a great route data page there.
I still get amazed even after 170 hours when I find new
cool things. What you REALLY REALLY need to do is go
fly with someone who's really good with the Cheltons.
You'll walk away with your mouth open and jaw hanging down.
>
> I love how the plane flys with 3 or 4 people. With two you really need
> a little weight in the back to balance it out.
>
>
And I think you get more speed with 4 too, as long as
they're not fatties. ;)
>
> My only problem now is that I cant stop flying long enough to paint the
> gear leg fairings.
>
>
HA!!!!! Now THAT I can absolutely buy into....that was so
painful to have to do the wheel and leg fairings after
first flight....it was just AWFUL. It would have seemed
much easier and quicker if I did it before I flew. Your
mental state changes drastically!
Thanks for the report Scott, I'm glad to see that I'm
not going down the path alone! Again, if you ever
want to chit-chat, you've got my number. Perhaps we'll
have to take a boring weekend and meet in the middle
somewhere soon. I learned the hard way though when
flying to Vegas that I really have no desire to ever
fly over Nebraska again....so let's plan a little
bit cooler route. ;) (Sorry Dean, and you other
Nebraska-ins, but man, there's not much out there in
some places.)
Have fun!
Tim
do not archive
>
> Scott Schmidt
>
> sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's |
Just use some epoxy with some colloidal silica and fairing
filler mixed in, and as you get closer to the finished
surface layer, don't use the silica. You can easily blend
that seam into oblivion and sand it smooth, including
the rivets. I'm sure the fiberglass tape method would
work, but I dont' think you need it there.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Deems Davis wrote:
>
> What are folks doing about the fiberglass to fuse seam then? It's
> cosmetically not very attractive. I would prefer not to leave it open,
> And previous posts warned bout filling gaps in dissimilar surfaces with
> body filler, due to uneven expansion rates. Why wouldn't the fiberglass
> tape technique work for this as well?
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
> David McNeill wrote:
>
>>
>> CORRECTION: We are seaming around the windows and the rivet lines in
>> the cowl to prevent rivet heads from working their way through the
>> finished paint. We are not using a glass seam to cover the blinds in
>> the lid attachment along the horizontal edge ----- only -----over the
>> blinds on the top rear edge. Our goal is to prevent vibration of
>> rivets in glass from working their way through the paint after a
>> couple hundred hours. Just got a new camera and will attempt to show
>> what I mean. We did it on my Glastar but missed a couple of places and
>> it shows.
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rene Felker" <rene@felker.com>
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 12:59 PM
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's
>>
>>
>>>
>>> I used the CS 4-4's and plan on using David's suggestion on covering the
>>> seam. I will let you know how it turns out. I also put in the attach
>>> points for David's seat belts, but have not installed the belts
>>> because of
>>> my very slow pace on finishing the inside of the cabin.
>>>
>>> Rene' Felker
>>> 40322
>>> Finish........
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
>>> Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 12:35 PM
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: RV10-List: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's
>>>
>>>
>>> What opinions are out there regarding which rivets to use to attach the
>>> cabin top to the fuse. I noticed that Tim started out using 426's and
>>> then switched to CS 4-4's. what experience have people had either way.
>>> Do the CS 4-4's interfere with the interior install?.
>>>
>>> Additionally, per previous posts regarding cracks and expansion between
>>> metal and fiberglass surfaces, Has anyone used the procedure that
>>> David McNeil posted regarding applying a thin fiberglass tape over the
>>> seam?
>>>
>>> inquiring minds want to know.
>>>
>>>
>>> Deems Davis # 406
>>> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
>>> http://deemsrv10.com/
>>>
>>>
>>>> *
>>>> *
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's |
It may as well; we are checking with experts at the Big Airplane Co.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 1:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's
>
> What are folks doing about the fiberglass to fuse seam then? It's
> cosmetically not very attractive. I would prefer not to leave it open, And
> previous posts warned bout filling gaps in dissimilar surfaces with body
> filler, due to uneven expansion rates. Why wouldn't the fiberglass tape
> technique work for this as well?
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
> David McNeill wrote:
>
>>
>> CORRECTION: We are seaming around the windows and the rivet lines in the
>> cowl to prevent rivet heads from working their way through the finished
>> paint. We are not using a glass seam to cover the blinds in the lid
>> attachment along the horizontal edge ----- only -----over the blinds on
>> the top rear edge. Our goal is to prevent vibration of rivets in glass
>> from working their way through the paint after a couple hundred hours.
>> Just got a new camera and will attempt to show what I mean. We did it on
>> my Glastar but missed a couple of places and it shows.
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rene Felker" <rene@felker.com>
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 12:59 PM
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's
>>
>>
>>>
>>> I used the CS 4-4's and plan on using David's suggestion on covering the
>>> seam. I will let you know how it turns out. I also put in the attach
>>> points for David's seat belts, but have not installed the belts because
>>> of
>>> my very slow pace on finishing the inside of the cabin.
>>>
>>> Rene' Felker
>>> 40322
>>> Finish........
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
>>> Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 12:35 PM
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: RV10-List: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's
>>>
>>>
>>> What opinions are out there regarding which rivets to use to attach the
>>> cabin top to the fuse. I noticed that Tim started out using 426's and
>>> then switched to CS 4-4's. what experience have people had either way.
>>> Do the CS 4-4's interfere with the interior install?.
>>>
>>> Additionally, per previous posts regarding cracks and expansion between
>>> metal and fiberglass surfaces, Has anyone used the procedure that
>>> David McNeil posted regarding applying a thin fiberglass tape over the
>>> seam?
>>>
>>> inquiring minds want to know.
>>>
>>>
>>> Deems Davis # 406
>>> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
>>> http://deemsrv10.com/
>>>
>>>
>>>> *
>>>> *
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 29
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Now I have to be very careful how I answer this. I don't want to just
say that there is plenty of clearance, but I also don't want people to
think I didn't think through this and engineer it so that it does hit.
Hahaha
No, there is plenty of clearance for me. Now if you were pretty short
with a large gas tank for a sex machine (beer belly) you may have some
problems when you pull the stick back all the way. But so far everyone
you has flown it has plenty of clearance.
I sure wish Van would have had adjustable rudder pedals like the RV-8
though. It would have give people more options for proper adjustment.
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2006 8:35 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: aileron throw
Scott, on a light hearted note. Since no one is responding to stick
travel fore and aft or rudder pedal travel.
If you had a welder place a 1.5" extension to correct the high grip,
Wouldn't that grip hit the equipment between your legs or was that
picture from the back seat (over six months ago) representative of
additional long legged clearance.
Still wondering fore to aft travel. And I still have your avgas money
in escrow for the first Grand Champion award. Casa Grande was not the
same without you.
N49CX - not yet flying
John Cox
Do not Archive for obvious reasons
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt
Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2006 2:21 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: aileron throw
<sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
You definitely do not want your stick hitting anything at all. My stick
was hitting on full down because of my Aerocrafters panel that hangs
about 1.5 inches lower than the stock panel and the Infinity grips are a
little taller. I had to higher a tig welder to come out and weld about
a 1 inch extension to the stick which brings it back, away from the
panel. Now during my preflight I can work the control surfaces with full
deflection and not hit anything.
N104XP - 35 hours
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 8:30 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: aileron throw
Sergei Boriak (Russian Aerobatic Champion) locked our stick grip (in a
Red Star Aircraft)under the instrument panel during Aerobatic Dual
maneuvering. No one thought it was possible. It leaves a life altering
experience. The maneuver set up the scenario. The aircraft contortion
closed the distance. Metal has memory, Metal flexes and bends.
Although the RV-10 will seldom be in aerobatic configuration. I would
never design an aircraft which could get in that stick configuration
again. "Design for Aerobatic, Load for Utility, fly in Normal
configuration". Adrenalin can be a great thing as your life passes in
your hand(s) while you say - "Damn!"
I want full ability to input full UNRESTRICTED control movement to
correct any conceivable configuration and I want it "NOW". Sorry Jesse,
now offense intended.
"Safety first, safety always".... I like your question Steven. Design
for all possibilities, not just the common ones. Just IMHO. Sounds
like the answer from Rob is 12.5" from full left to full right or 6.25
left and right of neutral. Any second confirmations? I believe the
elevator movement is greater and that one needs posting that as well due
to contact with the center of the switch panel.
While we are at it, could we get a Full rudder forward and Full rudder
aft measurement too? That means Rudder stop to Rudder stop but measured
at the foot pedals.
John Cox
(503) 453-6016
Do not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 6:33 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: aileron throw
Although I understand the concern, I don't think I would worry too much
about having full travel, because except during your control check, I
can't
imagine EVER going full travel on the controls (especially since we
aren't
aerobatic). Moving two inches to the left or right will get you into a
pretty steep turn, and two inches forward or back will get you very
nose-high or nose-low. We also cut the sticks all the way down and put
the
Infinity Aerospace grips as far down as they will go to clear the panel,
but
if we ever got close to the panel in flight, the moron flying would be
trying some kind of snap-outside-loop or something, which I certainly
would
not want to be a part of. Pulling all the way back on landing is the
only
one that would be common, when you flare.
Just IMHO, so do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steven
DiNieri
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 2:09 AM
Subject: RV10-List: aileron throw
<capsteve@adelphia.net>
Can anyone (rv10) with their wings on tell me how much throw is
in
the control stick in the aileron direction? Probably be easiest to just
measure from left sidewall to the stick deflected to the left and the
distance from the left sidewall to the stick with right deflection of
aileron. I'm scratch building a panel and need to ensure clearance.. thx
Steve d
40205
--
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Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Thoughts after 35 hours |
NOTHING in Nebraska?...........I usually read these post and blow most o
f the snipes off....but not when you DIG on Nebraska. LOL. I will giv
e both your families ROOM and BOARD if you meet in Grand Island, Nebrask
a to check each others planes. It is a 2.5 hour flight for Tim and a 3.
8 hour flight(tailwind) for Scott to GI, NE. Plus 100LL is down to $3.17
per gal.
Scott, I put a nice bead of PROSEAL around the oil cooler flange as I d
id not like the tack welds on it either. I also put Proseal on the flan
ge to seal/cushion it to the baffling. I love Proseal!!!!
OK, with Free room and board and cheap gas............is it more enticin
g to come to NE now TIM? :)
You guys still make me envious when you discuss your flying... BUT, 805H
L will be flying with the best YUGO panel ever .....SOON.
Open invitation,
Dean 40449
________________________________________________________________________
<html><P>NOTHING in Nebraska?...........I usually read these post and bl
ow most of the snipes off....but not when you DIG on Nebraska. LOL
. I will give both your families ROOM and BOARD if you meet
in Grand Island, Nebraska to check each others planes. It is
a 2.5 hour flight for Tim and a 3.8 hour flight(tailwind) for Scott to G
I, NE. Plus 100LL is down to $3.17 per gal. </P>
<P>Scott, I put a nice bead of PROSEAL around the oil cooler flang
e as I did not like the tack welds on it either. I also put Prosea
l on the flange to seal/cushion it to the baffling. I love Proseal
!!!!</P>
<P>OK, with Free room and board and cheap gas............is it more enti
cing to come to NE now TIM? :)</P>
<P>You guys still make me envious when you discuss your flying... BUT, 8
05HL will be flying with the best YUGO panel ever .....SOON.</P>
<P>Open invitation,</P>
<P>Dean 40449</P>
<font face="Times-New-Roman" size="2"><br><br>______________________
__________________________________________________<br>
Visit <a href="http://www.juno.com/value">http://www.juno.com/value</a
> to sign up today!<br></font>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 31
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| Subject: | Thoughts after 35 hours |
I know Nebraska is a little closer to the middle than central Florida, but
the offer stands (the room and board offer) if you decide to meet here as
well. And hey, the gas here is $3.10 and possibly dropping again in the
next couple of days. $.07 cheaper gas and the enjoyment of flying an extra
3 hours each average (one way, of course). What could beat that?
That offer stands for anybody flying a -10 through here. We would love to
look at your plane and put you up for a night.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@itecusa.org"jesse@itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of ddddsp1@juno.com
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 5:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Thoughts after 35 hours
NOTHING in Nebraska?...........I usually read these post and blow most of
the snipes off....but not when you DIG on Nebraska. LOL. I will give both
your families ROOM and BOARD if you meet in Grand Island, Nebraska to check
each others planes. It is a 2.5 hour flight for Tim and a 3.8 hour
flight(tailwind) for Scott to GI, NE. Plus 100LL is down to $3.17 per gal.
Scott, I put a nice bead of PROSEAL around the oil cooler flange as I did
not like the tack welds on it either. I also put Proseal on the flange to
seal/cushion it to the baffling. I love Proseal!!!!
OK, with Free room and board and cheap gas............is it more enticing to
come to NE now TIM? :)
You guys still make me envious when you discuss your flying... BUT, 805HL
will be flying with the best YUGO panel ever .....SOON.
Open invitation,
Dean 40449
________________________________________________________________________
Visit HYPERLINK "http://www.juno.com/value"http://www.juno.com/value to sign
up today!
"http://www.aeroelectric.com"www.aeroelectric.com
"http://www.buildersbooks.com"www.buildersbooks.com
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Message 32
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| Subject: | glassing rivets into glass |
Two pictures of my Glastar ; One had the rivets in the cowl seamed over
with a single layer (1") of E glass. The rivets holding the oil access
door did not have a layer of glass. The rivet heads appeared between
100-200 TT.
The message is ready to be sent with the following file or link
attachments:
IMG_0020
IMG_0021
Message 33
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| Subject: | Priming - Sherwin Williams DTM |
Michael
I was taught to just lightly scuff the surface with a scotchbrite pad and
then clean with lacquer thinner. I then sprayed on the primer.
Today I primed the VS & rudder skins. I used a fine mist on the sprayer. So
fine that I had to spray over each spot several times to get the desired
coverage. By doing this I was able to avoid too heavy a spray (which was
what happened during my first attempt at spraying).
The end result of today's effort is the skins are covered with a fine primer
film. I believe this is the intended result.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643 Day 3 of long = journey
Do not archive
-----------------------------------------
I was wondering what you did to prep before paint? I am getting ready to
paint my VIirticle tail this weekend. I am using dipping in Alidine before
applying a self etching primer called SME.
Michael Chase
40644
--------------------------
----- Original Message -----
From: owner-rv10-list-server
Sent: 11/09/2006 11:29 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Priming - Sherwin Williams DTM
Brian
I think you are right = about the thickness. I have only done a few parts so
far (the vertical stab skeleton) so = it is not really an issue just a
lesson learned. I plan to just = mist parts from now on so that I just
have a thin primer film. =
I bought the paint from a = Sherwin Williams outlet store. It is called SW
DTM and = can be found on their website at : http://makeashorterlink.c
om/?C1864622E
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643 Day 3 of long = journey
Message 34
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For those who aren't aware... there is an OUTSTANDING new tool available for aviation weather info. Check out www.weathermeister.com
This aviation weather website was developed and is maintained by Dan Checkoway (aka 'Sharpie') who is a SoCAL RV-7 builder/formation pilot and frequent contributor to Kitplanes Magazine. Many of you have probably visited his RV-7 website.... www.rvproject.com. Hands down the best RV builder website on the internet.
Dan has created a MASTERPIECE!!! Weathermeister.com is a FREE web-based tool that will absolutely change the way you currently get your weather infomation when flying locally or coast-to-coast in your RV. After experiencing www.weathermeister.com, you will NEVER go back to DUATS.
Weathermeister.com displays numerous weather charts, winds aloft info, best economy
and best speed altitudes to fly based on up-to-the-minute winds aloft data,
TFRs, forecast weather conditions at your destination and airports under your
flight path, and much, much more.
If you sign up for the premium service ($4.95 monthly or $49.95 yearly...), you can store your own aircraft info and frequently flown cross-country routes that will accurately give you fuel burn, ETE, etc. The premium service is an unbelievable value once you see how powerful, and easy to use the tools available really are. I encourage everyone to visit www.weathermeister.com., evaluate it's awesome capabilities, and sign-up for the premium service to keep the site alive! (NOTE: The Premium service provides a LOT more info than the free site.)
As a government employee, I still don't understand how a fellow like Dan Checkoway
can single-handedly provide such a useful tool for evaluating flight weather
conditions when the entire government (read FAA...) can not provide readable
or barely understandable weather info to us. Weathermeister.com displays it
all so clearly.
If you haven't checked out www.weathermeister.com, you owe it to yourself to try it. I use it EVERY time I intend to fly...
Tell a friend about the site. They WILL thank you!!!
Jack Lockamy
RV-7A N174JL 250 hrs.
Camarillo, CA
www.jacklockamy.com
NOTE: Although Dan C. is a friend of mine, he is not aware of this posting nor did he endorse this message. I am in no way affiliated with www.weathermeister.com. I'm just a a VERY grateful user that appreciates the weather tool Dan has created and wanted to share it with my fellow RV builders/pilots who may not have discovered it yet.
Message 35
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| Subject: | Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's |
Rough up the aluminum and it will work just fine. I plan on doing it that
way.
Gary Specketer
40274
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 3:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's
What are folks doing about the fiberglass to fuse seam then? It's
cosmetically not very attractive. I would prefer not to leave it open,
And previous posts warned bout filling gaps in dissimilar surfaces with
body filler, due to uneven expansion rates. Why wouldn't the fiberglass
tape technique work for this as well?
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
David McNeill wrote:
>
> CORRECTION: We are seaming around the windows and the rivet lines in
> the cowl to prevent rivet heads from working their way through the
> finished paint. We are not using a glass seam to cover the blinds in
> the lid attachment along the horizontal edge ----- only -----over the
> blinds on the top rear edge. Our goal is to prevent vibration of
> rivets in glass from working their way through the paint after a
> couple hundred hours. Just got a new camera and will attempt to show
> what I mean. We did it on my Glastar but missed a couple of places and
> it shows.
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rene Felker" <rene@felker.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 12:59 PM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's
>
>
>>
>> I used the CS 4-4's and plan on using David's suggestion on covering the
>> seam. I will let you know how it turns out. I also put in the attach
>> points for David's seat belts, but have not installed the belts
>> because of
>> my very slow pace on finishing the inside of the cabin.
>>
>> Rene' Felker
>> 40322
>> Finish........
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
>> Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 12:35 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's
>>
>>
>> What opinions are out there regarding which rivets to use to attach the
>> cabin top to the fuse. I noticed that Tim started out using 426's and
>> then switched to CS 4-4's. what experience have people had either way.
>> Do the CS 4-4's interfere with the interior install?.
>>
>> Additionally, per previous posts regarding cracks and expansion between
>> metal and fiberglass surfaces, Has anyone used the procedure that
>> David McNeil posted regarding applying a thin fiberglass tape over the
>> seam?
>>
>> inquiring minds want to know.
>>
>>
>> Deems Davis # 406
>> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
>> http://deemsrv10.com/
>>
>>
>>> *
>>> *
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 36
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For those who aren't aware... there is an OUTSTANDING new tool available for aviation weather info. Check out www.weathermeister.com
This aviation weather website was developed and is maintained by Dan Checkoway (aka 'Sharpie') who is a SoCAL RV-7 builder/formation pilot and frequent contributor to Kitplanes Magazine. Many of you have probably visited his RV-7 website.... www.rvproject.com. Hands down the best RV builder website on the internet.
Dan has created a MASTERPIECE!!! Weathermeister.com is a FREE web-based tool that will absolutely change the way you currently get your weather infomation when flying locally or coast-to-coast in your RV. After experiencing www.weathermeister.com, you will NEVER go back to DUATS.
Weathermeister.com displays numerous weather charts, winds aloft info, best economy
and best speed altitudes to fly based on up-to-the-minute winds aloft data,
TFRs, forecast weather conditions at your destination and airports under your
flight path, and much, much more.
If you sign up for the premium service ($4.95 monthly or $49.95 yearly...), you can store your own aircraft info and frequently flown cross-country routes that will accurately give you fuel burn, ETE, etc. The premium service is an unbelievable value once you see how powerful, and easy to use the tools available really are. I encourage everyone to visit www.weathermeister.com., evaluate it's awesome capabilities, and sign-up for the premium service to keep the site alive! (NOTE: The Premium service provides a LOT more info than the free site.)
As a government employee, I still don't understand how a fellow like Dan Checkoway
can single-handedly provide such a useful tool for evaluating flight weather
conditions when the entire government (read FAA...) can not provide readable
or barely understandable weather info to us. Weathermeister.com displays it
all so clearly.
If you haven't checked out www.weathermeister.com, you owe it to yourself to try it. I use it EVERY time I intend to fly...
Tell a friend about the site. They WILL thank you!!!
Jack Lockamy
RV-7A N174JL 250 hrs.
Camarillo, CA
www.jacklockamy.com
NOTE: Although Dan C. is a friend of mine, he is not aware of this posting nor did he endorse this message. I am in no way affiliated with www.weathermeister.com. I'm just a a VERY grateful user that appreciates the weather tool Dan has created and wanted to share it with my fellow RV builders/pilots who may not have discovered it yet.
Message 37
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| Subject: | Salt water environment? |
Group,
I need to get this off my chest. I may be a product of the public school
system, but the engineering school I attended taught that water evaporates
and salt does not go into the vapor phase. When we talk about salt water
environment for primers, etc. we are really talking about areas of high humidity
vs. areas of low humidity. Exhibit number one. The Great Salt Lake in Utah.
Why does it not evaporate? If you want to see a real salt water environment
travel to Chicago after a big snow storm and see all the salt on the roads that
sprays salt water and corrodes cars. Here in Houston there are many more old
cars around than in Chicago where I use to live.
The reason I posted this is that we need to talk about the cause of
corrosion "high humidity" not salt water environment.
BTW, I plan on using an epoxy primer. I've debated which if any primer
with myself a lot. My reason is that the RV-10 is a high dollar kit plane. If
I ever sell mine then no one will ever question epoxy primer.
Sorry about the ranting, but I read about salt water environments on Van's
Air Force forums as the reason for primers. Am I missing anything here?
Dave Syvertson
RV-10 Tail kit
do not archive
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Thoughts after 35 hours |
Scott, (and all)...
I just wanted to let you know that regarding the baffle in front
of cylinders #1 and #2, I have taken some photos tonight and
updated the page at:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/maintenance/20061022/index.html
You may want to take a peek before heading to the hanger again,
as I'm betting you can further improve your #1 and #2 cylinders.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Scott Schmidt wrote:
> I now have 35 hours on the RV-10 and everything has gone almost perfect.
>
>
>
> I did want to point out the one issue that I did have about 6 hours ago
> and it may be something to look at. The tube that attaches on the left
> side of the baffles that feeds air to the oil cooler broke during
> flight. The ring has about 8 rivets in it but the tube is only tack
> welded in a couple of spots. My oil temps are normally around 185 and
> then they jumped to 213, it was still getting about the air. Luckily
> it was 45 degrees out. I made four small brackets and reattached it so
> that it cant break again. That is a pretty weak piece though, you may
> want to reinforce to begin with.
>
>
>
> My #1 and #2 cylinders are running the hottest. I cut off the baffle
> that covers the #2 cylinder and it made a huge difference. Now #2 is 20
> degrees cooler than #1. I am going to cut the other tonight.
>
>
>
> I had a bad Grand Rapids oil pressure sensor that was replaced. It
> would read either zero or 99. I hooked up a mechanical sensor and it
> showed 65 psi at a high idle so I replaced it. Apparently, they have
> had some issues with them so watch for that.
>
>
>
> One thing that I absolutely love is the throttle quadrant. I was afraid
> that I wouldnt get the fine tuning that I thought push pull controls
> give but I find myself pulling the throttle and the prop back together
> and I can adjust them much quicker and with more accuracy than the push
> pulls. I would highly recommend it if you are on the fence.
>
>
>
> The Cheltons are great but so are the Grand Rapids, I will have to write
> a side by side comparison as soon as I am more familiar with both. I am
> still tweaking the autopilot gains on both and learning the approach
> procedures on both. But I am very happy that I have the Cheltons, they
> are really nice.
>
>
>
> I love how the plane flys with 3 or 4 people. With two you really need
> a little weight in the back to balance it out.
>
>
>
> My only problem now is that I cant stop flying long enough to paint the
> gear leg fairings.
>
>
>
> Scott Schmidt
>
> sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Thoughts after 35 hours |
Hey Dean, I was wondering if you were going to catch that. :)
Yeah, it was boring and flat, but I'm not sure if that's what
it's like where you are located. It's close enough though to
make an easy stop, or whatever to meet up with Scott.
Looks like the gas prices are dropping from yours and Jesse's
replies. Gas at my airport only briefly went to $3.90 this
year, but quickly dropped back down to $3.20 where it has been
for a while. It's hard to actually believe you feel *good* when
you're *only* paying $3.20 per gallon....
I like your idea of proseal around that flange. It's not really
structural, but it should could easily help prevent it from
cracking the welds and falling off, so it's probably a great
idea for people to do.
I can't wait to hear when your first flight is coming. Shoot
an email as you have projected dates...if the weather is good
and I'm bored, it might make a good bit of entertainment to
come down there and watch.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
ddddsp1@juno.com wrote:
> NOTHING in Nebraska?...........I usually read these post and blow most
> of the snipes off....but not when you DIG on Nebraska. LOL. I will
> give both your families ROOM and BOARD if you meet in Grand Island,
> Nebraska to check each others planes. It is a 2.5 hour flight for Tim
> and a 3.8 hour flight(tailwind) for Scott to GI, NE. Plus 100LL is down
> to $3.17 per gal.
>
> Scott, I put a nice bead of PROSEAL around the oil cooler flange as I
> did not like the tack welds on it either. I also put Proseal on the
> flange to seal/cushion it to the baffling. I love Proseal!!!!
>
> OK, with Free room and board and cheap gas............is it more
> enticing to come to NE now TIM? :)
>
> You guys still make me envious when you discuss your flying... BUT,
> 805HL will be flying with the best YUGO panel ever .....SOON.
>
> Open invitation,
>
> Dean 40449
>
Message 40
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|
Hmmm, as a government employee, how can you possibly not understand how an
individual can develop a successful product that the entire government
cannot. Sorry, couldn't be helped ;) Thanks for the link though!
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jack Lockamy
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 7:52 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Weathermeister
For those who aren't aware... there is an OUTSTANDING new tool available for
aviation weather info. Check out www.weathermeister.com
This aviation weather website was developed and is maintained by Dan
Checkoway (aka 'Sharpie') who is a SoCAL RV-7 builder/formation pilot and
frequent contributor to Kitplanes Magazine. Many of you have probably
visited his RV-7 website.... www.rvproject.com. Hands down the best RV
builder website on the internet.
Dan has created a MASTERPIECE!!! Weathermeister.com is a FREE web-based
tool that will absolutely change the way you currently get your weather
infomation when flying locally or coast-to-coast in your RV. After
experiencing www.weathermeister.com, you will NEVER go back to DUATS.
Weathermeister.com displays numerous weather charts, winds aloft info, best
economy and best speed altitudes to fly based on up-to-the-minute winds
aloft data, TFRs, forecast weather conditions at your destination and
airports under your flight path, and much, much more.
If you sign up for the premium service ($4.95 monthly or $49.95 yearly...),
you can store your own aircraft info and frequently flown cross-country
routes that will accurately give you fuel burn, ETE, etc. The premium
service is an unbelievable value once you see how powerful, and easy to use
the tools available really are. I encourage everyone to visit
www.weathermeister.com., evaluate it's awesome capabilities, and sign-up for
the premium service to keep the site alive! (NOTE: The Premium service
provides a LOT more info than the free site.)
As a government employee, I still don't understand how a fellow like Dan
Checkoway can single-handedly provide such a useful tool for evaluating
flight weather conditions when the entire government (read FAA...) can not
provide readable or barely understandable weather info to us.
Weathermeister.com displays it all so clearly.
If you haven't checked out www.weathermeister.com, you owe it to yourself to
try it. I use it EVERY time I intend to fly...
Tell a friend about the site. They WILL thank you!!!
Jack Lockamy
RV-7A N174JL 250 hrs.
Camarillo, CA
www.jacklockamy.com
NOTE: Although Dan C. is a friend of mine, he is not aware of this posting
nor did he endorse this message. I am in no way affiliated with
www.weathermeister.com. I'm just a a VERY grateful user that appreciates
the weather tool Dan has created and wanted to share it with my fellow RV
builders/pilots who may not have discovered it yet.
Message 41
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|
| Subject: | Re: Salt water environment? |
I think it is the salt water *mist* rather than water vapor. I'm not
sure those are the right terms but I do know that areas near ocean surf
have lot's of salt mist. It collects on practically all surfaces. That
may not be the case where there is little surf and therefore perhaps not
the case around the Great Salt Lake.
When I was shopping for a Maule, I ran across an aircraft in inland GA.
It had been refinished and was less than 10 years old. However, even to
my untrained eye, I could see a great deal of corrosion around the
interior airvents which were the only unfinished aluminum parts in
sight. I presumed it was a 'Florida' plane. Never confirmed my
suspicion but I've owned a similar Maule for 10years and there is no
sign of similar corrosion on the same parts.
do not archve
Dsyvert@aol.com wrote:
> Group,
>
> I need to get this off my chest. I may be a product of the public
> school system, but the engineering school I attended taught that water
> evaporates and salt does not go into the vapor phase. When we talk
> about salt water environment for primers, etc. we are really talking
> about areas of high humidity vs. areas of low humidity. Exhibit number
> one. The Great Salt Lake in Utah. Why does it not evaporate? If you
> want to see a real salt water environment travel to Chicago after a
> big snow storm and see all the salt on the roads that sprays salt
> water and corrodes cars. Here in Houston there are many more old cars
> around than in Chicago where I use to live.
>
> The reason I posted this is that we need to talk about the cause
> of corrosion "high humidity" not salt water environment.
>
> BTW, I plan on using an epoxy primer. I've debated which if any
> primer with myself a lot. My reason is that the RV-10 is a high dollar
> kit plane. If I ever sell mine then no one will ever question epoxy
> primer.
>
> Sorry about the ranting, but I read about salt water environments on
> Van's Air Force forums as the reason for primers. Am I missing
> anything here?
>
> Dave Syvertson
> RV-10 Tail kit
> do not archive
> *
>
>
> *
Message 42
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|
| Subject: | glassing rivets into glass |
Composites, even VANs RV-10 canopies do not set until the matrix reaches
final threshold temperature (Well above 175 degrees). Carbon fiber is
usually cured in an oven under vacuum which aids the matrix to reach
target and the resin to reach SET. Those aircraft which use dissimilar
materials won't see the shrink for one to three annual heat soak cycles.
A have scores of pictures of $25K + Lancair paint jobs which enter the
area just after the builder gets through recovering from their
investment. It sneaks up and bites the big one.
No RV builder is going to see this phenomena for some time, unless their
aircraft is left in the sun of FL, TX or AZ and out in the elements for
an extended period. This is one of the unfortunate truisms of composite
matrix. David's findings were most interesting to view after
Copperstate. His modifications to the shoulder harness mount are even
more revealing when you address the subject of Safety and post crash
survivability. Oh yeh, I forgot, statistically no RV-10s have crashed
yet. Only one had an unfortunate landing in CA.
John C
#600
Do not Archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 3:16 PM
Subject: RV10-List: glassing rivets into glass
Two pictures of my Glastar ; One had the rivets in the cowl seamed over
with a single layer (1") of E glass. The rivets holding the oil access
door did not have a layer of glass. The rivet heads appeared between
100-200 TT.
The message is ready to be sent with the following file or link
attachments:
IMG_0020
IMG_0021
e-mail security
Message 43
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|
| Subject: | Re: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's |
I scrapped the pop rivets and used AN426A-3-10 "soft rivets" and cut the length
to size. If you have already drilled the holes for pop rivets then use the AN426A-4.
Set the rivet gun at 60 psi and hit it lightly. Crushing the fiberglass
was a non-issue.
Bill DeRouchey
billderou@yahoo.com
N939SB flying
It may as well; we are checking with experts at the Big Airplane Co.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deems Davis"
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 1:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's
>
> What are folks doing about the fiberglass to fuse seam then? It's
> cosmetically not very attractive. I would prefer not to leave it open, And
> previous posts warned bout filling gaps in dissimilar surfaces with body
> filler, due to uneven expansion rates. Why wouldn't the fiberglass tape
> technique work for this as well?
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
> David McNeill wrote:
>
>>
>> CORRECTION: We are seaming around the windows and the rivet lines in the
>> cowl to prevent rivet heads from working their way through the finished
>> paint. We are not using a glass seam to cover the blinds in the lid
>> attachment along the horizontal edge ----- only -----over the blinds on
>> the top rear edge. Our goal is to prevent vibration of rivets in glass
>> from working their way through the paint after a couple hundred hours.
>> Just got a new camera and will attempt to show what I mean. We did it on
>> my Glastar but missed a couple of places and it shows.
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rene Felker"
>> To:
>> Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 12:59 PM
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's
>>
>>
>>>
>>> I used the CS 4-4's and plan on using David's suggestion on covering the
>>> seam. I will let you know how it turns out. I also put in the attach
>>> points for David's seat belts, but have not installed the belts because
>>> of
>>> my very slow pace on finishing the inside of the cabin.
>>>
>>> Rene' Felker
>>> 40322
>>> Finish........
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
>>> Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 12:35 PM
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: RV10-List: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's
>>>
>>>
>>> What opinions are out there regarding which rivets to use to attach the
>>> cabin top to the fuse. I noticed that Tim started out using 426's and
>>> then switched to CS 4-4's. what experience have people had either way.
>>> Do the CS 4-4's interfere with the interior install?.
>>>
>>> Additionally, per previous posts regarding cracks and expansion between
>>> metal and fiberglass surfaces, Has anyone used the procedure that
>>> David McNeil posted regarding applying a thin fiberglass tape over the
>>> seam?
>>>
>>> inquiring minds want to know.
>>>
>>>
>>> Deems Davis # 406
>>> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
>>> http://deemsrv10.com/
>>>
>>>
>>>> *
>>>> *
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: Salt water environment? |
Dave,
Think of salt in the air as an aerosol, similar to the
soot from a forest fire, or dust from a dust storm,
pollen in the air, etc. Wind across the ocean forms
waves, breaking waves send up a spray of salt laden
water. Much of this falls back to the sea, but the
smallest can be carried far inland depending on winds,
etc. Once salt gets on a surface, it is very hard to
get rid of.
Now that winter is upon us, a reminder than unvented
indoor space heaters using kerosene put out a trace
amount of soot that is not good to breathe and also
can effect the adhesion bond of fiberglass laminates.
I understand it was a particular issue in the scratch
built composite days (Long-ez, etc). I don't think the
RV-10 has any structural laminations so not as much of
a concern. (Cabin top comes "done").
Eric
--- Dsyvert@aol.com wrote:
> Group,
>
> I need to get this off my chest. I may be a
> product of the public school
> system, but the engineering school I attended taught
> that water evaporates
> and salt does not go into the vapor phase. When we
> talk about salt water
> environment for primers, etc. we are really talking
> about areas of high humidity
> vs. areas of low humidity. Exhibit number one. The
> Great Salt Lake in Utah.
> Why does it not evaporate? If you want to see a real
> salt water environment
> travel to Chicago after a big snow storm and see all
> the salt on the roads that
> sprays salt water and corrodes cars. Here in Houston
> there are many more old
> cars around than in Chicago where I use to live.
>
> The reason I posted this is that we need to talk
> about the cause of
> corrosion "high humidity" not salt water
> environment.
>
> BTW, I plan on using an epoxy primer. I've
> debated which if any primer
> with myself a lot. My reason is that the RV-10 is a
> high dollar kit plane. If
> I ever sell mine then no one will ever question
> epoxy primer.
>
> Sorry about the ranting, but I read about salt water
> environments on Van's
> Air Force forums as the reason for primers. Am I
> missing anything here?
>
> Dave Syvertson
> RV-10 Tail kit
> do not archive
>
Message 45
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|
| Subject: | Salt water environment? |
U.S. Army has a requirement to write up any time an aircraft flies closer
than 10 miles to salt water, to alert maintenance for a wash or other
preventative measures.
Rob Wright
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 9:36 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Salt water environment?
I think it is the salt water *mist* rather than water vapor. I'm not
sure those are the right terms but I do know that areas near ocean surf
have lot's of salt mist. It collects on practically all surfaces. That
may not be the case where there is little surf and therefore perhaps not
the case around the Great Salt Lake.
When I was shopping for a Maule, I ran across an aircraft in inland GA.
It had been refinished and was less than 10 years old. However, even to
my untrained eye, I could see a great deal of corrosion around the
interior airvents which were the only unfinished aluminum parts in
sight. I presumed it was a 'Florida' plane. Never confirmed my
suspicion but I've owned a similar Maule for 10years and there is no
sign of similar corrosion on the same parts.
do not archve
Dsyvert@aol.com wrote:
> Group,
>
> I need to get this off my chest. I may be a product of the public
> school system, but the engineering school I attended taught that water
> evaporates and salt does not go into the vapor phase. When we talk
> about salt water environment for primers, etc. we are really talking
> about areas of high humidity vs. areas of low humidity. Exhibit number
> one. The Great Salt Lake in Utah. Why does it not evaporate? If you
> want to see a real salt water environment travel to Chicago after a
> big snow storm and see all the salt on the roads that sprays salt
> water and corrodes cars. Here in Houston there are many more old cars
> around than in Chicago where I use to live.
>
> The reason I posted this is that we need to talk about the cause
> of corrosion "high humidity" not salt water environment.
>
> BTW, I plan on using an epoxy primer. I've debated which if any
> primer with myself a lot. My reason is that the RV-10 is a high dollar
> kit plane. If I ever sell mine then no one will ever question epoxy
> primer.
>
> Sorry about the ranting, but I read about salt water environments on
> Van's Air Force forums as the reason for primers. Am I missing
> anything here?
>
> Dave Syvertson
> RV-10 Tail kit
> do not archive
> *
>
>
> *
Message 46
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|
| Subject: | O540 crank issues? |
All,
While slowly building my RV-10 I also fly a Cherokee
180 and follow the piperowner board. Three issues with
O540 failures not subject to the AD caught my
attention and I decided to pass it on.
"This is kind of disturbing, but two PA32 accidents in
the last about 30 days have claimed a total of 4
lives. The scary thing is they were both engine
failures with rods being thrown around the #6 journal,
holes in the cases.
That and seeing the pictures of Kent's crank busted up
from a failure is making me wonder if an crank AD may
be coming for the O540's." Larry KRHV
http://www.aviationfeeds.com/feeds/accident.py?ev_id 061108X01626&key=1
http://www.aviationfeeds.com/feeds/accident.py?ev_id 061108X01628&key=1
description from Kent about initial problem with his
Dakota:
"Took our '79 Dakota out today to shake some bugs off.
About 15 min into the flight engine acted as though it
had been leaned too much and began loosing power, and
shortly there after,began to vibrate. Oil pressure,
oil temp, manifold pressure, prop and RPM were all OK.
Applied carb heat and headed back to AP. Seemed like
she was trying to run on 3 of 6. Flew about 6 min to
home base, cleared traffic in the pattern and landed
w/o further problems. A quick check revieled no
apparent oil leaks to indicate cracked case and/or
jugs, prop OK oil level OK. Does seem to be something
binding when prop is hand pulled. Too Dark and late of
Friday to go further. Towed it back to the T-hanger
and will have mechanics run compressions, drain oil
and, cut oil filter open next week.
Anyone had something like this happen on their 0540
before? If so, what do you suggest we look for? I have
a bad feeling that the loss in power might have
something to do with valves, but the vibration is more
disturbing.
Engine is at about 1200hrs since major and has been
flown regularly at least 15-20hr/month."
Update:
"Pulled the plugs and found oil in bottom of #4.
Pulled #4 jug and it got worse. Turns out that the
root cause is a broken crank.
Disturbing in that this 0540 crank was not subject to
the last two AD's. The break was clean and occured
across the rear counterweight of the #4 journal. "
I have some close up pics if anyone is interested.
Hopefully this will not lead to yet another crank AD.
I would say a rare event, but unfortunately not rare
enough.
FYI: Cherokee Chat on the www.piperowner.com site is a
close knit group of very experienced piper owners and
very informative. It is worth the membership even if
you do not fly a piper and I plan on continuing my
membership even after I sell. A handful of board
members have started bulding RV's too.
Eric
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's |
Its my understanding that the problem is not visual crushing of the
glass but "fractures" in the matrix at the micro level. Same problem
with Van's single hardpoint for the shoulder harnesses and a single #5
countersunk screw to hold the harness. over time the pulling on the belt
will create micro fractures that will pull through quite easily in a
crash.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill DeRouchey
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 9:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's
I scrapped the pop rivets and used AN426A-3-10 "soft rivets" and cut
the length to size. If you have already drilled the holes for pop
rivets then use the AN426A-4. Set the rivet gun at 60 psi and hit it
lightly. Crushing the fiberglass was a non-issue.
Bill DeRouchey
billderou@yahoo.com
N939SB flying
David McNeill <dlm46007@cox.net> wrote:
It may as well; we are checking with experts at the Big Airplane Co.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deems Davis"
To:
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 1:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's
>
> What are folks doing about the fiberglass to fuse seam then? It's
> cosmetically not very attractive. I would prefer not to leave it
open, And
> previous posts warned bout filling gaps in dissimilar surfaces
with body
> filler, due to uneven expansion rates. Why wouldn't the fiberglass
tape
> technique work for this as well?
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
> David McNeill wrote:
>
>>
>> CORRECTION: We are seaming around the windows and the rivet lines
in the
>> cowl to prevent rivet heads from working their way through the
finished
>> paint. We are not using a glass seam to cover the blinds in the
lid
>> attachment along the horizontal edge ----- only -----over the
blinds on
>> the top rear edge. Our goal is to prevent vibration of rivets in
glass
>> from working their way through the paint after a couple hundred
hours.
>> Just got a new camera and will attempt to show what I mean. We
did it on
>> my Glastar but missed a couple of places and it shows.
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rene Felker"
>> To:
>> Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 12:59 PM
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or
AN426-AD4's
>>
>>
>>>
>>> I used the CS 4-4's and plan on using David's suggestion on
covering the
>>> seam. I will let you know how it turns out. I also put in the
attach
>>> points for David's seat belts, but have not installed the belts
because
>>> of
>>> my very slow pace on finishing the inside of the cabin.
>>>
>>> Rene' Felker
>>> 40322
>>> Finish........
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems
Davis
>>> Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 12:35 PM
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: RV10-List: Cabin top attach - CS 4-4's or AN426-AD4's
>>>
>>>
>>> What opinions are out there regarding which rivets to use to
attach the
>>> cabin top to the fuse. I noticed that Tim started out using
426's and
>>> then switched to CS 4-4's. what experience have people had
either way.
>>> Do the CS 4-4's interfere with the interior install?.
>>>
>>> Additionally, per
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