Today's Message Index:
----------------------
0. 10:13 PM - Wiki... (Matt Dralle)
1. 02:49 AM - Re: Turbo 10 (Patrick Pulis)
2. 05:43 AM - Just A Note (bruce breckenridge)
3. 06:41 AM - Garmin finally upgrading to WAAS (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
4. 07:29 AM - Re: Thoughts after 35 hours (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
5. 07:34 AM - Re: Baggage Door Hinge (Niko)
6. 07:59 AM - Re: Thoughts after 35 hours (John Jessen)
7. 08:21 AM - Re: Weathermeister (Jesse Saint)
8. 11:43 AM - Re: Weathermeister (DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com)
9. 12:36 PM - Re: Thoughts after 35 hours (Scott Schmidt)
10. 12:55 PM - Re: glassing rivets into glass (John Jessen)
11. 02:14 PM - Electric Rudder Trim ala Vic Syracuse (Les Kearney)
12. 02:37 PM - Re: Weathermeister (GRANSCOTT@aol.com)
13. 02:42 PM - Re: Electric Rudder Trim ala Vic Syracuse (Tim Olson)
14. 03:01 PM - Re: Electric Rudder Trim ala Vic Syracuse (Les Kearney)
15. 04:03 PM - Vertical Stab - The RV10 Signature Dent (Les Kearney)
16. 04:07 PM - Re: Electric Rudder Trim ala Vic Syracuse (Tim Olson)
17. 04:36 PM - Re: Vertical Stab - The RV10 Signature Dent (John Jessen)
18. 04:54 PM - Re: Baggage Door Hinge (David Maib)
19. 07:30 PM - FW: [LML] FW: turbines (John W. Cox)
20. 08:14 PM - Re: Vertical Stab - The RV10 Signature Dent (John Gonzalez)
21. 10:53 PM - Re: Electric Rudder Trim ala Vic Syracuse (Steven DiNieri)
Message 0
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Dear Listers,
I added a new Wiki web site to the Matronics Email List features earlier this year. What's a Wiki, you ask? Well, here's the Wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wiki) definition:
A wiki (IPA: [ w .ki ] <WICK-ee> or [ wi .ki ] <WEE-kee>) is a type of Web site
that allows the visitors themselves to easily add, remove, and otherwise edit
and change some available content, sometimes without the need for registration.
This ease of interaction and operation makes a wiki an effective tool for
collaborative authoring. The term wiki also can refer to the collaborative software
itself (wiki engine) that facilitates the operation of such a Web site,
or to certain specific wiki sites, including the computer science site (an original
wiki), WikiWikiWeb, and on-line encyclopedias such as Wikipedia.
Under the Matronics Email List Moniker, there is now a very nice List-specific
Wiki available! It a place for Listers to put articles about any aviation topic
that suits them. The purpose is to provide what the mailing lists do not:
structure and persistence. The mailing lists are a fantastic resource to ask
a question and get good (and bad and funny and annoying) answers. But once the
question is asked and answered it is not in front of the List anymore. If a
new person subscribes the next day, he/she does not see that information unless
he/she goes to the trouble to search the archives, a hit or miss proposition.
The result is that the same thread of conversation gets created and/or revisited.
There are several things that happen as a result:
1. The person gets his or her question answered;
2. The information gets better as more people think about and answer the question;
3. The people who have seen the same question asked and answered get annoyed
at seeing the same things over and over and over and ...
So this is where the Wiki comes in. You know what questions you wanted answered.
You may have asked or answered the question. You know the information is useful.
So you put the information here, in the Matronics Email List Wiki!
It doesn't matter that this information is 100% complete or correct. Just writing
something creates a placeholder and makes useful information available immediately.
It has the same immediacy as the mailing list but it has persistence
and structure.
But what if the information is incomplete or incorrect? No problem! Anyone else
coming along can edit the article! If I write something and you discover something
I have left out or stated incorrectly, you can fix it right then!
So let's begin and make this the place for information about building, flying,
maintaining, and understanding our airplanes.
But what about whether something is "appropriate" or not? Don't worry. Write
it down. Let the reader determine whether or not it is appropriate. If it is,
he/she will read it. If it isn't, he/she won't. It's as simple as that.
And when you do write that article you won't have to worry about whether some editor
is going to decide whether or not to print it in a newsletter or whether
the webmaster will have time to put it up on the web page.
The last question I hear brewing out there is: if anyone can post anything, won't
this just become a mass of garbage? Surprisingly, the answer is a resounding
no. If you want proof, go visit the Wikipedia, a free-to-everyone encyclopedia
written by whoever wants to write articles. The articles there are as good
as anything I have read anywhere and anyone can add anything anytime they want
to.
So don't hesitate. Write it down. Put it here. It will never hurt anyone. The
more information we get here, the more useful it will become to other people
and the more information they will put here for YOU to use.
Here's the URL to start (there are lots more bured under this starting place):
http://www.matronics.com/wiki/index.php/Matronics:Community_Portal
But please don't forget that this Wiki and all of the other Matronics Email List
features are supported solely by YOUR Contributions!! November is List Fund
Raiser month and there are lots of Free Gifts to be had with your qualifying
Contribution. Please make a Contribution to support the continued operation and
upgrade of these great services!!! Thank you!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Message 1
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Sorry Deems, Alzheimer's setting in, should read 40299.
-----Original Message-----
From: Deems Davis [mailto:deemsdavis@cox.net]
Sent: Friday, 10 November 2006 1:03 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Turbo 10
Patrick, I noticed that you builder # is listed as 40822. Normally that
would imply Van's has sold at least 822 RV-10 kits. The highest number
that I had seen to date was in the mid to upper 600's. Is there a
special Van's numbering system for OZ?
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
Patrick Pulis wrote:
> Gentlemen, the turbo 10 lives at Goolwa in South Australia and has
> been modified by Jon Johansen, who has flow his RV-4 twice around the
> world and once to Antarctica. As I understand it, the leading edges
> have also been converted to a full span fuel tank, as have the tips.
> Jon's RV has a completely wet wing, which has enabled it to have
> endurance in excess of 16 hours. Jon also recently ferried an RV-8
> across the Pacific from the US. What I am trying to say here guys is
> that there is an incredible amount of RV experience in this project.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick
> Adelaide, South Australia
> RV-10 S/No. 40822
>
>*
>*
>
Message 2
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Times are changing. As I rolled out in my C172 on one of several
landings yesterday afternoon at Aurora's 17. I saw an unusual sight.
Taking the first turn-off, I pulled ahead of an oncoming homebuilt
that I couldn't quite label. I felt I'd seen it before, but didn't
pay a whole lot of attention to it. It had huge numbers on it - THAT
caught my eye. The pilot took off after me and remained in the
pattern. I was on my way back to my home airport, so I didn't get to
learn what it really was until this morning:
http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/rv12_first_flight.htm.
Bruce Breckenridge
40018 Wings
Do Not Archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Garmin finally upgrading to WAAS |
Looks like Garmin is finally coming through......
http://www.garmin.com/pressroom/aviation/110906.html
do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | Thoughts after 35 hours |
I sent my baffle with the oil cooler ring on it to our local airport welder to
weld the ring completely around the perimeter of it. There is no way it is coming
apart now. Van's really needs to have this welded better.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
N519RV Flying with 166 hours and still no paint or wheel pants. Just too much
fun to fly.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 8:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Thoughts after 35 hours
Hey Dean, I was wondering if you were going to catch that. :)
Yeah, it was boring and flat, but I'm not sure if that's what
it's like where you are located. It's close enough though to
make an easy stop, or whatever to meet up with Scott.
Looks like the gas prices are dropping from yours and Jesse's
replies. Gas at my airport only briefly went to $3.90 this
year, but quickly dropped back down to $3.20 where it has been
for a while. It's hard to actually believe you feel *good* when
you're *only* paying $3.20 per gallon....
I like your idea of proseal around that flange. It's not really
structural, but it should could easily help prevent it from
cracking the welds and falling off, so it's probably a great
idea for people to do.
I can't wait to hear when your first flight is coming. Shoot
an email as you have projected dates...if the weather is good
and I'm bored, it might make a good bit of entertainment to
come down there and watch.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
ddddsp1@juno.com wrote:
> NOTHING in Nebraska?...........I usually read these post and blow most
> of the snipes off....but not when you DIG on Nebraska. LOL. I will
> give both your families ROOM and BOARD if you meet in Grand Island,
> Nebraska to check each others planes. It is a 2.5 hour flight for Tim
> and a 3.8 hour flight(tailwind) for Scott to GI, NE. Plus 100LL is down
> to $3.17 per gal.
>
> Scott, I put a nice bead of PROSEAL around the oil cooler flange as I
> did not like the tack welds on it either. I also put Proseal on the
> flange to seal/cushion it to the baffling. I love Proseal!!!!
>
> OK, with Free room and board and cheap gas............is it more
> enticing to come to NE now TIM? :)
>
> You guys still make me envious when you discuss your flying... BUT,
> 805HL will be flying with the best YUGO panel ever .....SOON.
>
> Open invitation,
>
> Dean 40449
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Baggage Door Hinge |
Well , here are the pictures. I am really happy with the way this came ou
t. Its a worthwhile mod.=0A=0ANiko=0A40188=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message
----=0AFrom: David Maib <dmaib@mac.com>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com=0ASen
t: Thursday, November 9, 2006 10:23:32 AM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: Baggage
Door Hinge=0A=0ANiko,=0AI would love to see some photos, if possible.=0A
=0A=0ADavid Maib=0A40559=0A=0A=0AOn Nov 9, 2006, at 9:02 AM, Nikolaos Napol
i wrote:=0A=0A=0AThis morning I drilled out the rivets holding the hinge to
the frame and replaced them with number 6 nutplates and screws. It worked
very well. The two things I did is not to fully countersink the hinge for
the head of the screws as its not very thick and its not necessary as ther
e is some clearance when the door is closed. Second I left out the nutplat
e in the middle of the frame as it inteferes with the longeron. The longer
on could be trimmed slightly at this location and the nutplate added if one
deems this necessary as it ends at this location i.e. there can't be any l
oad in it. Overall it took 2 hrs. Another item that makes is relatively f
ast is that since the nutplate holes are considerably larger than the exist
ing #3 rivet holes drilling out the rivets goes considerably faster as one
does not have to be as carefull.=0A =0ANiko=0A40188=0A=0A=0A=0A----- Origin
al Message ----=0AFrom: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>=0ATo: rv10-list@ma
tronics.com=0ASent: Wednesday, November 8, 2006 10:38:19 AM=0ASubject: Re:
s Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>=0A=0ANiko. I wasn't as smart as Rick, and didn
't think of his options. I =0Afound out that I had a clearance issue after
I recessed the hinge more =0Athan the plans allowed for. I ended up removin
g some of the fuse skin in =0Athe fwd upper corner sufficient to allow for
pin insertion and removal =0Awhen the door is open. As you will see from th
e pic in the link, it =0Aleaves a small gap, that I will close by pro-seali
ng a piece of ,032 to =0Athe top corner of the baggage door, so that when i
t's closed, the gap =0Awill close also.=0A=0Ahttp://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec
%2034%20Baggage%20Door/slides/DSC02782.html=0A=0ADeems Davis # 406=0AFinish
ing - ( A Misnomer ! )=0Ahttp://deemsrv10.com/=0A=0ANikolaos Napoli wrote:
=0A=0A> Well I looked at method number 1 this morning and I don't think its
=0A> such a good idea. The hole would have to be riding the radius of the
=0A> longeron. Thats not such a good thing. I think I will use methond
=0A> #2. Its also possible to remove the door and use method 2 later on by
=0A> simply drilling out the rivets (door frame to hinge) =0A> =0A> Niko
=0A> 40188=0A>=0A> ----- Original Message ----=0A> From: Nikolaos Napoli <o
wl40188@yahoo.com>=0A> To: rv10-list@matronics.com=0A> Sent: Monday, Novemb
er 6, 2006 3:16:10 PM=0A> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge=0A>=0A
> Rick=0A> =0A> Those are good ideas. I will try #1.=0A> =0A> =0A> Do n
ot archive=0A> =0A> Thanks again for all the responses.=0A> =0A>=0A> Niko
=0A>=0A> 40182=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A> ----- Original Message ----=0A> From: Rick G
ray <rickgray@roadrunner.com>=0A> To: rv10-list@matronics.com=0A> Sent: Mon
day, November 6, 2006 1:25:09 PM=0A> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Baggage Door H
inge=0A>=0A> OK....here's 2 options that I came up with that will allow EAS
Y =0A> removal of the door with NO RISK of scratching the paint on the airp
lane:=0A> =0A> 1-install the cabin side of the hinge with platenuts....whe
n/if you =0A> need to remove the door you simply remove the platenut screws
and the =0A> door comes off WITH BOTH SIDES of the hinge....savvy??=0A>
=0A> 2-drill a 3/32 hole in the longeron ABOVE the hinge pin. Make the pin
=0A> longer than it needs to be and you can easily remove the pin from =0A>
INSIDE the airplane. The small portion of the pin inside can be =0A> 'dres
sed up', hidden, or covered by the headliner...your =0A> choice.....savvy??
=0A> =0A> Either option above allows you to recess the hinge more than the
=0A> plans....read: your hinge is NOT hangin' out in the breeze. Again...N
O =0A> CHANCE of scratching airplane paint.=0A> =0A> I chose option 2 and
am very pleased with the result.=0A> =0A> No charge for this one :^).=0A>
=0A> Rick in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm - too many projects to list - RV10
=0A> nearing completion=0A> http://rv6rick.tripod.com/ohiovalleyrvators/=0A
>=0A> ----- Original Message -----=0A> *From:* Nikolaos Napoli <mai
lto:owl40188@yahoo.com>=0A> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-
list@matronics.com>=0A> *Sent:* Monday, November 06, 2006 11:46 AM=0A>
*Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge=0A>=0A> =0A> Jess
e and Rob thanks yor your replies=0A> =0A> It looked like I would
have an easier time inserting the pin from=0A> the bottom rather than t
he top, however, obviously this would not=0A> be acceptable as the pin
could fall out during flight. My=0A> hinge does stick out just a sligh
t bit but it sticks out about the=0A> same amount top and bottom. I di
dn't see anything in the manual=0A> talking about this. Well I can alw
ays cut the hinge if I need to=0A> take it out. Maybe a light thinning
of the diameter and some=0A> lubricating oil would get it in/out. =0A>
=0A> Thanks=0A> =0A>=0A> Niko=0A>=0A> 40188=0A>=0A>
=0A>=0A> ----- Original Message ----=0A> From: Jesse Saint <jesse@i
tecusa.org>=0A> To: rv10-list@matronics.com=0A> Sent: Monday, Novem
ber 6, 2006 10:01:35 AM=0A> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge
=0A>=0A> The design and the plans have it so the top of the hinge stick
s=0A> out just a little bit so you can pull the pin from the top. It i
s=0A> all sits flush, you will have a very hard time removing the pin,
=0A> which is what you are saying, I think. You might want to check=0A
> the plans and make sure you didn=A2t misread the way you were=0A>
supposed to install it.=0A>=0A> =0A>=0A> Jesse Saint=0A>=0A>
I-TEC, Inc.=0A>=0A> jesse@itecusa.org <mailto:jesse@itecusa.org>=0A>=0A
> www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>=0A>=0A> W: 352-465-4545
=0A>=0A> C: 352-427-0285=0A>=0A> ----------------------------------
--------------------------------------=0A>=0A> *From:* owner-rv10-list-
server@matronics.com=0A> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]
*On Behalf Of=0A> *Nikolaos Napoli=0A> *Sent:* Monday, November 06,
2006 9:40 AM=0A> *To:* Matronics=0A> *Subject:* RV10-List: Baggage
Door Hinge=0A>=0A> =0A>=0A> I was going to rivet the Baggage Door
Hinge Frame to the Side=0A> Skins this weekend and noticed that once I
do this it will be=0A> difficult to install the door and get the door
hinge wire in=0A> place. It looks like on my installation once the doo
r is=0A> installed one can't pull out the hinge wire. In fact I need t
o=0A> install the door hinge wire and door prior to riveting the door
=0A> hinge frame. Is this typicall to what other builders experienced?
=0A>=0A> =0A>=0A> thanks=0A> =0A>=0A> Niko=0A>=0A> 40
188=0A>=0A>* *=0A>=0A>* *=0A>=0A>**=0A>=0A>**=0A>=0A>**=0A>=0A>*www.aeroe
lectric.com*=0A>=0A>*www.kitlog.com*=0A>=0A>**=0A>=0A>**=0A>=0A>**=0A>=0A>*
*=0A>=0A>*http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*=0A>=0A>*=0A> *=0A>
=0A> -- Release Date: 11/4/2006=0A>=0A> --=0A> No virus found i
n this outgoing message.=0A> 11/4/2006=0A>=0A>*www.aeroelbuildersbooks.
com/"; target=_blank rel=nofollow>www.buildersbooks.comwwA href="http
://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"; target=_blank rel====
====0A>=0A> <http://www.homebuilthelp.com/>*=0A>=0A>=0A> <http://
www.homebuilthelp.com/>=0A>=0A>*=0A>=0A>href="http://www.aeroelectric.com
">www.aeroelectric.com* <http://www.homebuilthelp.com/>=0A>*href="http://
www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com>=0A>href="http://www.kitlog.
com">www.kitlog.com>=0A>href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilt
help.com>=0A>href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List" target
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matron
ics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=0A>=0A>*=0A>=0A>*www.aeroelectric.com=0A>erowar
e Enterprises www.homebuilthelp./www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"; ta
rget=_blank rel=nofollow>http===0A>=0A> <http://www.kitlog.com/>*
=0A>=0A>=0A> <http://www.kitlog.com/>=0A>=0A>*www.aeroelectric.com< * Aer
oware Enterprises * <http://www.kitlog.com/>*www.homebuilt//www.matronics.c
om/Navigator?RV10-List"; target=_blank rel=nofollow>htt===0A>=0A> <
http://www.kitlog.com/>*=0A&g -- Please Support Your bsp; * The Builder'
s Bookstore www.homebbsp; -Matt Dralle, sp; - T
he RV10-List Email Fom/Navigator?RV10-List" ==========0A
=0A=0A -- Please Support Your Lists (And Get Some AWESOME FRE
E November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click class="Apple-converted
-space"> the Contribution link below to this year's Terrific class="Appl
e-converted-space"> * AeroElectric www.aeroelectric.com * The Bui
lder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com * Aeroware Enterprises www.kitlog.
com * HomebuiltHELP www.homebuilthelp.com --> http://www.matronics.co
m/contribution Thank you for your generous class="Apple-converted-space
"> - The RV10-List Email Forum - class
="Apple-converted-space"> --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Lis
======
Message 6
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| Subject: | Thoughts after 35 hours |
Anyone explain this to Van's?
John J
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R
[NTK]
Sent: Friday, November 10, 2006 7:29 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Thoughts after 35 hours
--> <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
I sent my baffle with the oil cooler ring on it to our local airport
welder to weld the ring completely around the perimeter of it. There is no
way it is coming apart now. Van's really needs to have this welded better.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
N519RV Flying with 166 hours and still no paint or wheel pants. Just too
much fun to fly.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 8:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Thoughts after 35 hours
Hey Dean, I was wondering if you were going to catch that. :) Yeah, it was
boring and flat, but I'm not sure if that's what
it's like where you are located. It's close enough though to
make an easy stop, or whatever to meet up with Scott.
Looks like the gas prices are dropping from yours and Jesse's replies. Gas
at my airport only briefly went to $3.90 this year, but quickly dropped back
down to $3.20 where it has been for a while. It's hard to actually believe
you feel *good* when you're *only* paying $3.20 per gallon....
I like your idea of proseal around that flange. It's not really structural,
but it should could easily help prevent it from cracking the welds and
falling off, so it's probably a great idea for people to do.
I can't wait to hear when your first flight is coming. Shoot an email as
you have projected dates...if the weather is good and I'm bored, it might
make a good bit of entertainment to come down there and watch.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
ddddsp1@juno.com wrote:
> NOTHING in Nebraska?...........I usually read these post and blow most
> of the snipes off....but not when you DIG on Nebraska. LOL. I will
> give both your families ROOM and BOARD if you meet in Grand Island,
> Nebraska to check each others planes. It is a 2.5 hour flight for Tim
> and a 3.8 hour flight(tailwind) for Scott to GI, NE. Plus 100LL is down
> to $3.17 per gal.
>
> Scott, I put a nice bead of PROSEAL around the oil cooler flange as I
> did not like the tack welds on it either. I also put Proseal on the
> flange to seal/cushion it to the baffling. I love Proseal!!!!
>
> OK, with Free room and board and cheap gas............is it more
> enticing to come to NE now TIM? :)
>
> You guys still make me envious when you discuss your flying... BUT,
> 805HL will be flying with the best YUGO panel ever .....SOON.
>
> Open invitation,
>
> Dean 40449
>
--
9:45 AM
Message 7
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Great site. I had never seen it before, but now I am a subscriber. He is
working on upgrades to the aircraft profile info right now to allow for
different cruising speeds/fuel-burns at different altitudes, which will help
a lot in the suggested flight level info.
Do not archive!
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jack Lockamy
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 7:36 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Weathermeister
For those who aren't aware... there is an OUTSTANDING new tool available for
aviation weather info. Check out www.weathermeister.com
This aviation weather website was developed and is maintained by Dan
Checkoway (aka 'Sharpie') who is a SoCAL RV-7 builder/formation pilot and
frequent contributor to Kitplanes Magazine. Many of you have probably
visited his RV-7 website.... www.rvproject.com. Hands down the best RV
builder website on the internet.
Dan has created a MASTERPIECE!!! Weathermeister.com is a FREE web-based
tool that will absolutely change the way you currently get your weather
infomation when flying locally or coast-to-coast in your RV. After
experiencing www.weathermeister.com, you will NEVER go back to DUATS.
Weathermeister.com displays numerous weather charts, winds aloft info, best
economy and best speed altitudes to fly based on up-to-the-minute winds
aloft data, TFRs, forecast weather conditions at your destination and
airports under your flight path, and much, much more.
If you sign up for the premium service ($4.95 monthly or $49.95 yearly...),
you can store your own aircraft info and frequently flown cross-country
routes that will accurately give you fuel burn, ETE, etc. The premium
service is an unbelievable value once you see how powerful, and easy to use
the tools available really are. I encourage everyone to visit
www.weathermeister.com., evaluate it's awesome capabilities, and sign-up for
the premium service to keep the site alive! (NOTE: The Premium service
provides a LOT more info than the free site.)
As a government employee, I still don't understand how a fellow like Dan
Checkoway can single-handedly provide such a useful tool for evaluating
flight weather conditions when the entire government (read FAA...) can not
provide readable or barely understandable weather info to us.
Weathermeister.com displays it all so clearly.
If you haven't checked out www.weathermeister.com, you owe it to yourself to
try it. I use it EVERY time I intend to fly...
Tell a friend about the site. They WILL thank you!!!
Jack Lockamy
RV-7A N174JL 250 hrs.
Camarillo, CA
www.jacklockamy.com
NOTE: Although Dan C. is a friend of mine, he is not aware of this posting
nor did he endorse this message. I am in no way affiliated with
www.weathermeister.com. I'm just a a VERY grateful user that appreciates
the weather tool Dan has created and wanted to share it with my fellow RV
builders/pilots who may not have discovered it yet.
--
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
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| Subject: | Re: Weathermeister |
fltplan.com is free & has some nice features.
Doug Preston
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 9
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| Subject: | Thoughts after 35 hours |
I haven't said anything yet, but I will shoot them an e-mail.
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Friday, November 10, 2006 8:59 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Thoughts after 35 hours
Anyone explain this to Van's?
John J
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R
[NTK]
Sent: Friday, November 10, 2006 7:29 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Thoughts after 35 hours
--> <Ray.R.Doerr@sprint.com>
I sent my baffle with the oil cooler ring on it to our local
airport
welder to weld the ring completely around the perimeter of it. There is
no
way it is coming apart now. Van's really needs to have this welded
better.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
N519RV Flying with 166 hours and still no paint or wheel pants. Just
too
much fun to fly.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 8:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Thoughts after 35 hours
Hey Dean, I was wondering if you were going to catch that. :) Yeah, it
was
boring and flat, but I'm not sure if that's what
it's like where you are located. It's close enough though to
make an easy stop, or whatever to meet up with Scott.
Looks like the gas prices are dropping from yours and Jesse's replies.
Gas
at my airport only briefly went to $3.90 this year, but quickly dropped
back
down to $3.20 where it has been for a while. It's hard to actually
believe
you feel *good* when you're *only* paying $3.20 per gallon....
I like your idea of proseal around that flange. It's not really
structural,
but it should could easily help prevent it from cracking the welds and
falling off, so it's probably a great idea for people to do.
I can't wait to hear when your first flight is coming. Shoot an email
as
you have projected dates...if the weather is good and I'm bored, it
might
make a good bit of entertainment to come down there and watch.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
ddddsp1@juno.com wrote:
> NOTHING in Nebraska?...........I usually read these post and blow most
> of the snipes off....but not when you DIG on Nebraska. LOL. I will
> give both your families ROOM and BOARD if you meet in Grand Island,
> Nebraska to check each others planes. It is a 2.5 hour flight for Tim
> and a 3.8 hour flight(tailwind) for Scott to GI, NE. Plus 100LL is
down
> to $3.17 per gal.
>
> Scott, I put a nice bead of PROSEAL around the oil cooler flange as I
> did not like the tack welds on it either. I also put Proseal on the
> flange to seal/cushion it to the baffling. I love Proseal!!!!
>
> OK, with Free room and board and cheap gas............is it more
> enticing to come to NE now TIM? :)
>
> You guys still make me envious when you discuss your flying... BUT,
> 805HL will be flying with the best YUGO panel ever .....SOON.
>
> Open invitation,
>
> Dean 40449
>
--
9:45 AM
Message 10
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| Subject: | glassing rivets into glass |
Just wondering what the "more revealing" findings were about the shoulder
harness mods and thus the post crash survivability.
John J
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 8:10 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: glassing rivets into glass
Composites, even VANs RV-10 canopies do not set until the matrix reaches
final threshold temperature (Well above 175 degrees). Carbon fiber is
usually cured in an oven under vacuum which aids the matrix to reach target
and the resin to reach SET. Those aircraft which use dissimilar materials
won't see the shrink for one to three annual heat soak cycles. A have
scores of pictures of $25K + Lancair paint jobs which enter the area just
after the builder gets through recovering from their investment. It sneaks
up and bites the big one.
No RV builder is going to see this phenomena for some time, unless their
aircraft is left in the sun of FL, TX or AZ and out in the elements for an
extended period. This is one of the unfortunate truisms of composite
matrix. David's findings were most interesting to view after Copperstate.
His modifications to the shoulder harness mount are even more revealing when
you address the subject of Safety and post crash survivability. Oh yeh, I
forgot, statistically no RV-10s have crashed yet. Only one had an
unfortunate landing in CA.
John C
#600
Do not Archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 3:16 PM
Subject: RV10-List: glassing rivets into glass
Two pictures of my Glastar ; One had the rivets in the cowl seamed over with
a single layer (1") of E glass. The rivets holding the oil access door did
not have a layer of glass. The rivet heads appeared between 100-200 TT.
IMG_0020
IMG_0021
security
Message 11
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| Subject: | Electric Rudder Trim ala Vic Syracuse |
Hi
I have decided to add electric rudder trim before I complete the rudder.
The
theory being that it will be infinitely easier to do this before the
rudder
is completed. That being said, I want to shamelessly copy Vic's design
as
documented on Tim Olson's website (see
http://myrv10.com/tips/mods/RudderTrim/index.html).
The pictures are quire revealing (pun intended)! I see that the access
panel
is has a Ray Allen T2-7A servo and that the access panel sits on a
flange
that was riveted to the rudder skin. What I don't have are the
dimensions
of the access panel as well as its location on the rudder. I can guess
but
would prefer something a bit more accurate if available. Failing that,
is
the T2-7a servo dimensionally the same size as the T3-12A servo that
came
with the tail kit? If so, I can estimate the access panel size.
Inquiring minds need to know ...
Les Kearney
RV10 # 40643 - Vertical Stab
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Weathermeister |
Jack...since your posting is basically advertising...I hope you're sending a
large contribution to Matt...
Patrick Scott
Do not archive
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Electric Rudder Trim ala Vic Syracuse |
Ed Hayden just completed a nearly identical modification on his
rudder using Vic's design concept. He used the following
standard parts:
VA-195C
VA-195D
These I believe are the standard cover plate and doubler that
go in place of the stall warning hole. I don't think it would
really matter what dimensions you use as long as your servo
fits. I don't know for sure if there's a difference in
footprint between servos, but I doubt it....someone else would
have to fill you in on that. If you are doing the mod though,
I'd buy the servo and have it handy for doing the mod.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Les Kearney wrote:
> Hi
>
>
>
> I have decided to add electric rudder trim before I complete the rudder.
> The theory being that it will be infinitely easier to do this before the
> rudder is completed. That being said, I want to shamelessly copy Vics
> design as documented on Tim Olsons website (see
> http://myrv10.com/tips/mods/RudderTrim/index.html).
>
>
>
> The pictures are quire revealing (pun intended)! I see that the access
> panel is has a Ray Allen T2-7A servo and that the access panel sits on a
> flange that was riveted to the rudder skin. What I dont have are the
> dimensions of the access panel as well as its location on the rudder. I
> can guess but would prefer something a bit more accurate if available.
> Failing that, is the T2-7a servo dimensionally the same size as the
> T3-12A servo that came with the tail kit? If so, I can estimate the
> access panel size.
>
>
>
> Inquiring minds need to know ...
>
>
>
> Les Kearney
>
> RV10 # 40643 - Vertical Stab
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 14
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| Subject: | Electric Rudder Trim ala Vic Syracuse |
Hi Tim
Many thanks for the info. I will order the parts directly. Would you happen
to know where Vic got the cover for the servo arm I can't tell if it was
riveted on or if it was plastic (glued?).
Cheers
Les
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Friday, November 10, 2006 3:42 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Electric Rudder Trim ala Vic Syracuse
Ed Hayden just completed a nearly identical modification on his
rudder using Vic's design concept. He used the following
standard parts:
VA-195C
VA-195D
These I believe are the standard cover plate and doubler that
go in place of the stall warning hole. I don't think it would
really matter what dimensions you use as long as your servo
fits. I don't know for sure if there's a difference in
footprint between servos, but I doubt it....someone else would
have to fill you in on that. If you are doing the mod though,
I'd buy the servo and have it handy for doing the mod.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Les Kearney wrote:
> Hi
>
>
>
> I have decided to add electric rudder trim before I complete the rudder.
> The theory being that it will be infinitely easier to do this before the
> rudder is completed. That being said, I want to shamelessly copy Vic's
> design as documented on Tim Olson's website (see
> http://myrv10.com/tips/mods/RudderTrim/index.html).
>
>
>
> The pictures are quire revealing (pun intended)! I see that the access
> panel is has a Ray Allen T2-7A servo and that the access panel sits on a
> flange that was riveted to the rudder skin. What I don't have are the
> dimensions of the access panel as well as its location on the rudder. I
> can guess but would prefer something a bit more accurate if available.
> Failing that, is the T2-7a servo dimensionally the same size as the
> T3-12A servo that came with the tail kit? If so, I can estimate the
> access panel size.
>
>
>
> Inquiring minds need to know ...
>
>
>
> Les Kearney
>
> RV10 # 40643 - Vertical Stab
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 15
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| Subject: | Vertical Stab - The RV10 Signature Dent |
Hi
Whilst waiting my for my tools I spent some time trolling the list and
builder websites for hints, tips & tricks. One =93gotcha=94 that was
well
discussed was the dent that comes from putting on the vertical stab skin
and
how to avoid it. In particular, the recommendation is to radius the
VS1006,
VS1013 and VS1005 vertical stab ribs in a manner similar to the
instructions
for the horizontal stab ribs (page 8-7 of the plans) taking off 1/8=94
or
more.
While attaching the vertical stab skin, I noticed a small dent forming
even
though had followed the instructions and radiused the corners of the
ribs.
The end result was I took the skin off before the dent became too
noticeable
and reworked the ribs. In this case I took considerably more material
off
the rib noses making the nose rounding much more pronounced that
suggested
by the Van=92s plans. The end result was no denting after all (just a
barely
noticeable bump on one side of the skin).
For what it=92s worth, I found that the requirements shown for the
horizontal
stab are insufficient to prevent dents on the vertical stab. I ended up
rounding the nose of each rib such that the side flanges were cut back
by at
least =BC=94.
Les Kearney
RV10 # 40643 - Vertical Stab : Ready to be rivetted!
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Electric Rudder Trim ala Vic Syracuse |
That part I don't know. It looks like a regular rudder cable
exit fairing that you can get from Aircraft spruce or Avery Tools.
I'm sure you could proseal it on if you wanted, or rivet it, either
way. I've had good luck internally using E6000, but I don't know
if I'd use that outside....probably proseal.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Les Kearney wrote:
>
> Hi Tim
>
> Many thanks for the info. I will order the parts directly. Would you happen
> to know where Vic got the cover for the servo arm I can't tell if it was
> riveted on or if it was plastic (glued?).
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Friday, November 10, 2006 3:42 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Electric Rudder Trim ala Vic Syracuse
>
>
> Ed Hayden just completed a nearly identical modification on his
> rudder using Vic's design concept. He used the following
> standard parts:
> VA-195C
> VA-195D
>
> These I believe are the standard cover plate and doubler that
> go in place of the stall warning hole. I don't think it would
> really matter what dimensions you use as long as your servo
> fits. I don't know for sure if there's a difference in
> footprint between servos, but I doubt it....someone else would
> have to fill you in on that. If you are doing the mod though,
> I'd buy the servo and have it handy for doing the mod.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> Les Kearney wrote:
>> Hi
>>
>>
>>
>> I have decided to add electric rudder trim before I complete the rudder.
>> The theory being that it will be infinitely easier to do this before the
>> rudder is completed. That being said, I want to shamelessly copy Vic's
>> design as documented on Tim Olson's website (see
>> http://myrv10.com/tips/mods/RudderTrim/index.html).
>>
>>
>>
>> The pictures are quire revealing (pun intended)! I see that the access
>> panel is has a Ray Allen T2-7A servo and that the access panel sits on a
>> flange that was riveted to the rudder skin. What I don't have are the
>> dimensions of the access panel as well as its location on the rudder. I
>> can guess but would prefer something a bit more accurate if available.
>> Failing that, is the T2-7a servo dimensionally the same size as the
>> T3-12A servo that came with the tail kit? If so, I can estimate the
>> access panel size.
>>
>>
>>
>> Inquiring minds need to know ...
>>
>>
>>
>> Les Kearney
>>
>> RV10 # 40643 - Vertical Stab
>>
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Vertical Stab - The RV10 Signature Dent |
The only issue is how close you came to the rivet hole. Make sure you
have
the correct amount of metal between the rivet hole and the new edge.
1.5 x
the dia, I do believe.
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Friday, November 10, 2006 3:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Vertical Stab - The RV10 Signature Dent
Hi
Whilst waiting my for my tools I spent some time trolling the list and
builder websites for hints, tips & tricks. One =93gotcha=94 that was
well
discussed was the dent that comes from putting on the vertical stab skin
and
how to avoid it. In particular, the recommendation is to radius the
VS1006,
VS1013 and VS1005 vertical stab ribs in a manner similar to the
instructions
for the horizontal stab ribs (page 8-7 of the plans) taking off 1/8=94
or
more.
While attaching the vertical stab skin, I noticed a small dent forming
even
though had followed the instructions and radiused the corners of the
ribs.
The end result was I took the skin off before the dent became too
noticeable
and reworked the ribs. In this case I took considerably more material
off
the rib noses making the nose rounding much more pronounced that
suggested
by the Van=92s plans. The end result was no denting after all (just a
barely
noticeable bump on one side of the skin).
For what it=92s worth, I found that the requirements shown for the
horizontal
stab are insufficient to prevent dents on the vertical stab. I ended up
rounding the nose of each rib such that the side flanges were cut back
by at
least =BC=94.
Les Kearney
RV10 # 40643 - Vertical Stab : Ready to be rivetted!
"http://www.aeroelectric.com"www.aeroelectric.com
"http://www.buildersbooks.com"www.buildersbooks.com
"http://www.kitlog.com"www.kitlog.com
"http://www.homebuilthelp.com"www.homebuilthelp.com
"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribut
ion
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Na
vig
ator?RV10-List
11/10/2006
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
11/10/2006
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Baggage Door Hinge |
Thanks Niko. That really looks good. I plan to do the same thing.
Great job!
David
40559
On Nov 10, 2006, at 9:34 AM, Niko wrote:
Well , here are the pictures. I am really happy with the way this
came out. Its a worthwhile mod.
Niko
40188
----- Original Message ----
From: David Maib <dmaib@mac.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 9, 2006 10:23:32 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge
Niko,
I would love to see some photos, if possible.
David Maib
40559
On Nov 9, 2006, at 9:02 AM, Nikolaos Napoli wrote:
This morning I drilled out the rivets holding the hinge to the frame
and replaced them with number 6 nutplates and screws. It worked very
well. The two things I did is not to fully countersink the hinge for
the head of the screws as its not very thick and its not necessary as
there is some clearance when the door is closed. Second I left out
the nutplate in the middle of the frame as it inteferes with the
longeron. The longeron could be trimmed slightly at this location
and the nutplate added if one deems this necessary as it ends at this
location i.e. there can't be any load in it. Overall it took 2 hrs.
Another item that makes is relatively fast is that since the nutplate
holes are considerably larger than the existing #3 rivet holes
drilling out the rivets goes considerably faster as one does not have
to be as carefull.
Niko
40188
----- Original Message ----
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 8, 2006 10:38:19 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge
Niko. I wasn't as smart as Rick, and didn't think of his options. I
found out that I had a clearance issue after I recessed the hinge more
than the plans allowed for. I ended up removing some of the fuse skin in
the fwd upper corner sufficient to allow for pin insertion and removal
when the door is open. As you will see from the pic in the link, it
leaves a small gap, that I will close by pro-sealing a piece of ,032 to
the top corner of the baggage door, so that when it's closed, the gap
will close also.
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2034%20Baggage%20Door/slides/
DSC02782.html
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
Nikolaos Napoli wrote:
> Well I looked at method number 1 this morning and I don't think its
> such a good idea. The hole would have to be riding the radius of the
> longeron. Thats not such a good thing. I think I will use methond
> #2. Its also possible to remove the door and use method 2 later
on by
> simply drilling out the rivets (door frame to hinge)
>
> Niko
> 40188
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Nikolaos Napoli <owl40188@yahoo.com>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, November 6, 2006 3:16:10 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge
>
> Rick
>
> Those are good ideas. I will try #1.
>
>
> Do not archive
>
> Thanks again for all the responses.
>
>
> Niko
>
> 40182
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Rick Gray <rickgray@roadrunner.com>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, November 6, 2006 1:25:09 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge
>
> OK....here's 2 options that I came up with that will allow EASY
> removal of the door with NO RISK of scratching the paint on the
airplane:
>
> 1-install the cabin side of the hinge with platenuts....when/if you
> need to remove the door you simply remove the platenut screws and the
> door comes off WITH BOTH SIDES of the hinge....savvy??
>
> 2-drill a 3/32 hole in the longeron ABOVE the hinge pin. Make the pin
> longer than it needs to be and you can easily remove the pin from
> INSIDE the airplane. The small portion of the pin inside can be
> 'dressed up', hidden, or covered by the headliner...your
> choice.....savvy??
>
> Either option above allows you to recess the hinge more than the
> plans....read: your hinge is NOT hangin' out in the breeze.
Again...NO
> CHANCE of scratching airplane paint.
>
> I chose option 2 and am very pleased with the result.
>
> No charge for this one :^).
>
> Rick in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm - too many projects to list - RV10
> nearing completion
> http://rv6rick.tripod.com/ohiovalleyrvators/
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Nikolaos Napoli <mailto:owl40188@yahoo.com>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Monday, November 06, 2006 11:46 AM
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge
>
>
> Jesse and Rob thanks yor your replies
>
> It looked like I would have an easier time inserting the pin from
> the bottom rather than the top, however, obviously this would not
> be acceptable as the pin could fall out during flight. My
> hinge does stick out just a slight bit but it sticks out about
the
> same amount top and bottom. I didn't see anything in the manual
> talking about this. Well I can always cut the hinge if I need to
> take it out. Maybe a light thinning of the diameter and some
> lubricating oil would get it in/out.
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Niko
>
> 40188
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Jesse Saint <jesse@itecusa.org>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, November 6, 2006 10:01:35 AM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge
>
> The design and the plans have it so the top of the hinge sticks
> out just a little bit so you can pull the pin from the top.
It is
> all sits flush, you will have a very hard time removing the pin,
> which is what you are saying, I think. You might want to check
> the plans and make sure you didn=92t misread the way you were
> supposed to install it.
>
>
>
> Jesse Saint
>
> I-TEC, Inc.
>
> jesse@itecusa.org <mailto:jesse@itecusa.org>
>
> www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
>
> W: 352-465-4545
>
> C: 352-427-0285
>
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *Nikolaos Napoli
> *Sent:* Monday, November 06, 2006 9:40 AM
> *To:* Matronics
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge
>
>
>
> I was going to rivet the Baggage Door Hinge Frame to the Side
> Skins this weekend and noticed that once I do this it will be
> difficult to install the door and get the door hinge wire in
> place. It looks like on my installation once the door is
> installed one can't pull out the hinge wire. In fact I need to
> install the door hinge wire and door prior to riveting the door
> hinge frame. Is this typicall to what other builders
experienced?
>
>
>
> thanks
>
>
> Niko
>
> 40188
>
>* *
>
>* *
>
>**
>
>**
>
>**
>
>*www.aeroelectric.com*
>
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>
> -- Release Date: 11/4/2006
>
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> 11/4/2006
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<Baggage Door Top.JPG>
<Baggage Door Hinge.JPG>
<Bagge Door Hinge Frame.JPG>
<Baggage Door Hinge Frame 2.JPG>
Message 19
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| Subject: | FW: [LML] FW: turbines |
Many RV-10 builders believe the lessons learned from Lancair aircraft
have little or no bearing on how they build their personal aircraft. I
am clearly vocal on the issues of safety and continued cheap insurance
rates. I regularly participate "on an ongoing and annual basis" with
High Performance Aircraft Training. I commend Rick Sked and Bob for
their efforts to help kit builders seek lower rates.
Just a few days ago, another aircraft was lost with possible Fuel
Starvation at 21,000 feet. The pilot broke through an overcast level at
4,000 and immediately set up for a recoverable landing on a Georgia
Freeway. The aircraft and pilot did not recover. I hope some of you
are listening.
Thanks for the bandwidth.
John Cox
Do not Archive as insurance companies and attorneys use such information
for the benefit of their individual clients.
________________________________
From: Lancair Mailing List [mailto:lml@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of
Joe Bartels
Sent: Friday, November 10, 2006 10:42 AM
Subject: [LML] FW: turbines
Joseph C. Bartels, CEO
Lancair International, Inc.
________________________________
From: Joe Bartels
Sent: Fri 11/10/2006 5:33 AM
Subject: turbines
Marv:
Please post the following:
Listers:
Lancair turbine crashes are as varied as the pilots involved in those
crashes. I am extremely upset by each and every one of those incidents.
We send representatives to virtually all of the crash sites and assist
the FAA and NTSB in the investigations. It is never easy to be part of
that process, but, it does help us all to better understand what
happened so that we can all further learn from the facts of that
incident.
Years ago I began the process of working with the insurance industry to
put forth certain standards that would reduce the number of accidents
involving our aircraft. Those standards include 1) building the
aircraft at Lancair OR following its completion, having it inspected,
for insurance purposes, by one of our Lancair approved inspectors; 2)
that the systems remain stock, that is, that there are no modifications
to the airframe which are not pre-approved by our engineering staff; 3)
that the owner/operator receive training through our Lancair sponsored
flight training program (HPATS). That program includes a) initial
training; b) recurrency training 6 months thereafter; c) recurrency
training 6 months thereafter; and, d) annually thereafter. This was
not a singular system thought of by myself or anyone at Lancair for the
purpose of limiting the experimental enjoyment of the airframe. It was
so that AIG Insurance would provide coverage to a series of aircraft
that, to that point, had not and would not have received airframe
coverage.
While training does not guarantee safe operation of an aircraft, it
greatly improves the chances that the pilot will fly as he has been
trained, and in the face of an emergency will survive.
What happened in Georgia?
Simply put, there was a fuel starvation problem that should have
resulted in a safe landing when following standard training taught by
HPAT.
What caused the fuel starvation problem?
This aircraft had a non-standard fuel system which incorporated two fuel
control valves and a rear mounted auxiliary tank.
Was this system approved by Lancair?
No it was not.
Did the pilot receive HPAT training?
No he did not. It appears that he was in control of the aircraft until
he became too slow and stalled/spun into the ground. While I do not
have all of the information at present, it appears that should he have
not have stalled, he might have survived the accident.
Was his aircraft powered with a factory overhauled or new engine?
No it was not.
While none of these facts could singularly be determined to be the
reason for the crash or the fatality, all of these facts can be
interpreted as supportive of why Lancair and AIG insist on inspection,
training and conformity. It is not to control you or drive you from
experimental aircraft. It is instead to give you the best chance of
continuing to enjoy the finest high performance kit aircraft in the
world!
Joseph C. Bartels, CEO
Lancair International, Inc.
Message 20
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| Subject: | Vertical Stab - The RV10 Signature Dent |
Les,
You might consider bonding those nose ribs in place with a flexible epoxy or
pro seal. I lubed my clecoes which made cleanup of the excess easy. The
idea is to bond the ribs in while everything is clecoed. Then dissasemble
and clean before riveting. Don't use these clecoes again while doing the
fuel tanks, and or be sure to soak them in acetone.
The result on the second VS I made was great. I did the same on the HS.
Look in the archives.
John G. 409
>From: Les Kearney <kearney@shaw.ca>
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Vertical Stab - The RV10 Signature Dent
>Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2006 16:57:48 -0700
>
>Hi
>
>
>Whilst waiting my for my tools I spent some time trolling the list and
>builder websites for hints, tips & tricks. One gotcha that was well
>discussed was the dent that comes from putting on the vertical stab skin
>and
>how to avoid it. In particular, the recommendation is to radius the VS1006,
>VS1013 and VS1005 vertical stab ribs in a manner similar to the
>instructions
>for the horizontal stab ribs (page 8-7 of the plans) taking off 1/8 or
>more.
>
>
>While attaching the vertical stab skin, I noticed a small dent forming even
>though had followed the instructions and radiused the corners of the ribs.
>The end result was I took the skin off before the dent became too
>noticeable
>and reworked the ribs. In this case I took considerably more material off
>the rib noses making the nose rounding much more pronounced that suggested
>by the Vans plans. The end result was no denting after all (just a barely
>noticeable bump on one side of the skin).
>
>
>For what its worth, I found that the requirements shown for the horizontal
>stab are insufficient to prevent dents on the vertical stab. I ended up
>rounding the nose of each rib such that the side flanges were cut back by
>at
>least .
>
>
>Les Kearney
>
>RV10 # 40643 - Vertical Stab : Ready to be rivetted!
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Electric Rudder Trim ala Vic Syracuse |
Just how necessary is this mod?? Has anyone flying their 10 had to put a
wedge on the rudder to correct for an out of trim condition? I think
it=92s a
great idea just need to make sure its needed.
Thinking about rudders=85. I=92m seriously considering mounting the
nav/gs
antenna in the rudder. I can=92t find a certified example with an
external
antenna in a control surface, I=92m not sure if that=92s on purpose.
I=92m
thinking that the rudder is fairly stationary in cruise and approach. So
there shouldn=92t be a problem=85..
Steve
40205
Subject: RV10-List: Electric Rudder Trim ala Vic Syracuse
Hi
I have decided to add electric rudder trim before I complete the rudder.
The
theory being that it will be infinitely easier to do this before the
rudder
is completed. That being said, I want to shamelessly copy Vic=92s design
as
documented on Tim Olson=92s website (see HYPERLINK
"http://myrv10.com/tips/mods/RudderTrim/index.html"http://myrv10.com/tips
/mo
ds/RudderTrim/index.html).
The pictures are quire revealing (pun intended)! I see that the access
panel
is has a Ray Allen T2-7A servo and that the access panel sits on a
flange
that was riveted to the rudder skin. What I don=92t have are the
dimensions
of the access panel as well as its location on the rudder. I can guess
but
would prefer something a bit more accurate if available. Failing that,
is
the T2-7a servo dimensionally the same size as the T3-12A servo that
came
with the tail kit? If so, I can estimate the access panel size.
Inquiring minds need to know ...
Les Kearney
RV10 # 40643 - Vertical Stab
--
11/10/2006
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
11/10/2006
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