Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:11 AM - Re: QB tanks (The McGough Family)
2. 04:20 AM - Re: Wire Book for RV-10 (AirMike)
3. 04:21 AM - Re: QB tanks (AirMike)
4. 04:21 AM - Re: Wire Book for RV-10 (Bob Leffler)
5. 04:50 AM - Re: RV Amphibian (Tim C)
6. 05:03 AM - Re: QB tanks (Jesse Saint)
7. 05:51 AM - Re: Wire Book for RV-10 (John Testement)
8. 05:56 AM - Re: QB tanks (John Testement)
9. 06:27 AM - Re: QB tanks (Jesse Saint)
10. 06:50 AM - Re: Wire Book for RV-10 (John W. Cox)
11. 07:15 AM - Re: Wire Book for RV-10 (orchidman)
12. 07:40 AM - Re: QB tanks (Dave Leikam)
13. 07:44 AM - Re: QB tanks (Dave Leikam)
14. 07:53 AM - check your tire tubes... (Jay Brinkmeyer)
15. 08:01 AM - Rudder Trim (tintopranch)
16. 08:56 AM - Re: check your tire tubes... (Pascal)
17. 10:38 AM - Re: QB tanks (John Testement)
18. 12:22 PM - Re: QB tanks (MauleDriver)
19. 01:55 PM - Re: RV Amphibian (dmaib@mac.com)
20. 02:08 PM - Re: Re: Wire Book for RV-10 (Vernon Smith)
21. 02:39 PM - Re: Re: Wire Book for RV-10 (carlos)
22. 08:13 PM - Re: Starter damage after kick back on hot start (linn Walters)
23. 08:35 PM - Re: Wire Book for RV-10 (orchidman)
24. 09:47 PM - Re: QB tanks (Dave Leikam)
25. 10:13 PM - Re: QB tanks (Jesse Saint)
Message 1
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Dave how did you test them ?
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Leikam
To: RV-10 matronics
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 3:42 PM
Subject: RV10-List: QB tanks
So far so good. Two QB tanks tested, no leaks, never took them off
the wings. The final test will be to fill them with fuel for engine
testing and flight. Hopefully they remain sound.
Just thought I'd let ya all know.
By the way, I simply installed the fuel senders temporarily for the
tests with the included gaskets, no pro-seal, and they did not leak.
Must you use pro-seal for install, or is this just a prudent practice?
I do plan on using the stuff, but the gaskets seem to work well on their
own.
Dave Leikam
40496
About to start putting the guts and wires in my wings.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Wire Book for RV-10 |
I bought the wiring kit from Vans. It is expensive, but it provides the basic wiring
for the RV10 including a pre-cut and rigged harness that covers all of your
basic wiring needs (as they say for a VFR airplane.) It also includes instructions,
but not a description of what & why
It all fit in quite flawlessly. I was quite impressed. :D I do not know didley
about wiring and elecrical stuff, but my IA friend brought me up to speed
on what I was doing and assisted me with the installation. I also rigged my
static line at the same time and threw some conduit in under the rear seats and
baggage area for later additions.
The kit also includes the dreaded #2 wire from the battery to the solenoid
on the firewall. All in all, I probably saved 2 weeks on the electrical system
- time will tell, but my IA friend gave me confidence that the kit did the job.
With some trepidation I have buttoned up the baggage area and moved on to
the control stuff. :? :? Hope to fly to OSH next year
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=121179#121179
Message 3
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Yes - what was your leak test proceedure ???
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=121180#121180
Message 4
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| Subject: | Wire Book for RV-10 |
The link on Bob's site for this is broken. Can you forward a copy off list?
Our EAA Chapter is sponsoring Bob's seminar in December at KOSU. This is on
my to do list, but haven't started activities yet other than to add it to
the myriad of other task yet to be started.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman
Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 10:34 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Wire Book for RV-10
Bob Nuckolls of AeroElectric has a sample wire book for a Lancair. Has
anyone made one for the RV-10? Or 7 or 9?
If anyone knows of one, it sure would help getting me down the road or
runway quicker. [Laughing]
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N410GB reserved)
do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=121152#121152
__________ NOD32 2363 (20070629) Information __________
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: RV Amphibian |
Well Eustace Bowhay (Salmon Arm B.C.) put an RV-6 on floats and made work
years ago. Was on the cover of Kitplanes back then.....He passed away last
year....Some background 20,000hrs Flying time non-Airline or Military>
http://vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=7209
Tim
Cold Lk.
----- Original Message -----
From: "jdalton77" <jdalton77@comcast.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 9:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV Amphibian
>
> Boy, I'd love to do that.
>
> I was looking at the Murphy Moose before I bought the -10 kit, we live on
a
> lake and would love to park the plane at the dock in the summer.
>
> Biggest problem is the drag . . . we want to go fast!
>
> Jeff Dalton
> Wings
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <dmaib@mac.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 9:15 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: RV Amphibian
>
>
> >
> > Mary and I met Trey Johnson last year while we were learning how to
drill,
> > dimple, deburr, rivet, proseal, etc from Wally Anderson at Synergy Air.
> > Trey was finishing his RV-7 on amphibs with Wally. Stephen Reynolds, who
> > is building an RV-7 to take around the world, shot the video and
> > apologizes for the quality, but this is pretty cool. Who is going to do
> > the first -10 on floats? 8)
> >
> > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KXTGNm5k_-I
> >
> > --------
> > David Maib
> > RV-10 #40559
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=121141#121141
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Attachments:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com//files/dscn0013_108.jpg
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 6
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Dave,
Some people are leaving out the gaskets completely and just using proseal
and others are going the other extreme, using no proseal and just the
gaskets. Either way has benefits. With just proseal, you will probably go
longer without leaks, but if/when it becomes time to replace the senders, it
will be more work to do so. Using just the gaskets makes it much easier to
change the senders, but the rubber will most likely dry out and crack and
give you leaks sometime down the road. Many are using the gaskets and
putting anywhere from a little to a lot of proseal around them. We have
started just using the gaskets after putting a little proseal around the
nutplates inside the tank. I just tested a set of tanks and at first test
there was a leak around one of the screws on one tank that was fixed by a
quarter turn with a screwdriver. Maybe a good combination if you are
worried would be just the gaskets and then a bead around the outside of the
gasket with proseal, and maybe a little proseal around the screws (but not
on the head).
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 1:43 AM
Subject: RV10-List: QB tanks
So far so good. Two QB tanks tested, no leaks, never took them off the
wings. The final test will be to fill them with fuel for engine testing and
flight. Hopefully they remain sound.
Just thought I'd let ya all know.
By the way, I simply installed the fuel senders temporarily for the tests
with the included gaskets, no pro-seal, and they did not leak. Must you use
pro-seal for install, or is this just a prudent practice? I do plan on
using the stuff, but the gaskets seem to work well on their own.
Dave Leikam
40496
About to start putting the guts and wires in my wings.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Wire Book for RV-10 |
Here is my wirebook. Feel free to use it as a start.
Take care,
John
_________________________________
John Testement
RoadMaps Consulting / SportsMind
Please visit our website at roadmapscoaching.com
Phone: 804-303-1927
Email: john@roadmapscoaching.com
3204 Long Meadow Cir.
Glen Allen, VA 23059
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman
Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 10:34 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Wire Book for RV-10
Bob Nuckolls of AeroElectric has a sample wire book for a Lancair. Has
anyone made one for the RV-10? Or 7 or 9?
If anyone knows of one, it sure would help getting me down the road or
runway quicker. [Laughing]
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N410GB reserved)
do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=121152#121152
10:56 AM
5:57 PM
Message 8
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Jesse,
I used the gaskets with Fuel Lube. I have tested the tanks (even removed
them to test the back side), and they test ok. I used the balloon and soapy
water method. Do you see any potential problems with the gasket/Fuel Lube
approach?
John Testement
HYPERLINK "mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com"jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Paint prep and LOTS of misc stuff
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 8:03 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: QB tanks
Dave,
Some people are leaving out the gaskets completely and just using proseal
and others are going the other extreme, using no proseal and just the
gaskets. Either way has benefits. With just proseal, you will probably go
longer without leaks, but if/when it becomes time to replace the senders, it
will be more work to do so. Using just the gaskets makes it much easier to
change the senders, but the rubber will most likely dry out and crack and
give you leaks sometime down the road. Many are using the gaskets and
putting anywhere from a little to a lot of proseal around them. We have
started just using the gaskets after putting a little proseal around the
nutplates inside the tank. I just tested a set of tanks and at first test
there was a leak around one of the screws on one tank that was fixed by a
quarter turn with a screwdriver. Maybe a good combination if you are
worried would be just the gaskets and then a bead around the outside of the
gasket with proseal, and maybe a little proseal around the screws (but not
on the head).
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com"jesse@saintaviation.com
HYPERLINK "http://www.saintaviation.com"www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
5:57 PM
Message 9
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Did you use the lube on the threads of the screws or just on the face of the
gasket? I can't say that I see any problem with it, although I am certainly
no expert on Fuel Lube. The main problem with just using the gasket, as I
understand it, is that the rubber can dry out and crack. I don't know the
affect of fuel lube on the rubber. Others would be much more qualified to
answer this.
Do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Testement
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 8:55 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: QB tanks
Jesse,
I used the gaskets with Fuel Lube. I have tested the tanks (even removed
them to test the back side), and they test ok. I used the balloon and soapy
water method. Do you see any potential problems with the gasket/Fuel Lube
approach?
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Paint prep and LOTS of misc stuff
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 8:03 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: QB tanks
Dave,
Some people are leaving out the gaskets completely and just using proseal
and others are going the other extreme, using no proseal and just the
gaskets. Either way has benefits. With just proseal, you will probably go
longer without leaks, but if/when it becomes time to replace the senders, it
will be more work to do so. Using just the gaskets makes it much easier to
change the senders, but the rubber will most likely dry out and crack and
give you leaks sometime down the road. Many are using the gaskets and
putting anywhere from a little to a lot of proseal around them. We have
started just using the gaskets after putting a little proseal around the
nutplates inside the tank. I just tested a set of tanks and at first test
there was a leak around one of the screws on one tank that was fixed by a
quarter turn with a screwdriver. Maybe a good combination if you are
worried would be just the gaskets and then a bead around the outside of the
gasket with proseal, and maybe a little proseal around the screws (but not
on the head).
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
6/28/2007 5:57 PM
Message 10
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| Subject: | Wire Book for RV-10 |
An excellent contribution to the build effort.
Thanks
John Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Testement
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 5:50 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Wire Book for RV-10
Here is my wirebook. Feel free to use it as a start.
Take care,
John
_________________________________
John Testement
RoadMaps Consulting / SportsMind
Please visit our website at roadmapscoaching.com
Phone: 804-303-1927
Email: john@roadmapscoaching.com
3204 Long Meadow Cir.
Glen Allen, VA 23059
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman
Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 10:34 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Wire Book for RV-10
Bob Nuckolls of AeroElectric has a sample wire book for a Lancair. Has
anyone made one for the RV-10? Or 7 or 9?
If anyone knows of one, it sure would help getting me down the road or
runway quicker. [Laughing]
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N410GB reserved)
do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=121152#121152
10:56 AM
5:57 PM
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Wire Book for RV-10 |
Guess I needed to be more specific. There are 2 samples on the AeroElectronic
CD that are labeled Wire Book that are about 30 pages of wiring diagrams. They
are printable into a book form with a basic wiring diagram similar to what we
see from many people plus other detailed diagrams with finer details of each
segment or component.
Has anyone done one of these for the 10? Before you do a complete load analysis
or inventory of all components, you need a complete and detailed wiring diagram.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N410GB reserved)
do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=121205#121205
Message 12
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I installed the senders as I stated, then installed the quickdrain
valves on the bottom of the wings. Purchased a small brass valve and
necessary hardware from local store and installed that in the strainer
fitting. I found a small rubber grommet and pushed that onto the vent
fitting. Then put a balloon over the grommet and SLOWLY added air from
compressor turned way down to almost nothing through the open valve.
Watched the balloon grow to about 14" dia. Close valve. (Ya think?!)
Sprayed dishsoap and water solution on fittings and valve to be sure
nothing was leaking and waited overnight. Balloon still at 14".
Sprayed soap on rivets just for grins and giggles, no bubbles. I am
confident at this time there are no leaks. Down the road is another
story, but I can't think of any more testing to do which would identify
any problem areas.
I did at first have a small leak in the valve, which I tightened and
stopped the leak. Also the balloon over the vent fitting. I just
wrapped electrical tape around the neck tightly and that stopped.
I know some have found leaks in their QB tanks, but I really did not
expect any. I have found the QB kits so far to be of very good quality
and am guessing Van's must test them before install. On to the wing
guts.
Dave Leikam
40496
QB wing guts
----- Original Message -----
From: The McGough Family
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 1:10 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB tanks
Dave how did you test them ?
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Leikam
To: RV-10 matronics
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 3:42 PM
Subject: RV10-List: QB tanks
So far so good. Two QB tanks tested, no leaks, never took them off
the wings. The final test will be to fill them with fuel for engine
testing and flight. Hopefully they remain sound.
Just thought I'd let ya all know.
By the way, I simply installed the fuel senders temporarily for the
tests with the included gaskets, no pro-seal, and they did not leak.
Must you use pro-seal for install, or is this just a prudent practice?
I do plan on using the stuff, but the gaskets seem to work well on their
own.
Dave Leikam
40496
About to start putting the guts and wires in my wings.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 13
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I did not use anything on the screws with the gasket. I know, I thought
they may leak also but they did not.
Dave Leikam
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 7:25 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: QB tanks
Did you use the lube on the threads of the screws or just on the face
of the gasket? I can't say that I see any problem with it, although I
am certainly no expert on Fuel Lube. The main problem with just using
the gasket, as I understand it, is that the rubber can dry out and
crack. I don't know the affect of fuel lube on the rubber. Others
would be much more qualified to answer this.
Do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Testement
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 8:55 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: QB tanks
Jesse,
I used the gaskets with Fuel Lube. I have tested the tanks (even
removed them to test the back side), and they test ok. I used the
balloon and soapy water method. Do you see any potential problems with
the gasket/Fuel Lube approach?
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Paint prep and LOTS of misc stuff
do not archive
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 8:03 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: QB tanks
Dave,
Some people are leaving out the gaskets completely and just using
proseal and others are going the other extreme, using no proseal and
just the gaskets. Either way has benefits. With just proseal, you will
probably go longer without leaks, but if/when it becomes time to replace
the senders, it will be more work to do so. Using just the gaskets
makes it much easier to change the senders, but the rubber will most
likely dry out and crack and give you leaks sometime down the road.
Many are using the gaskets and putting anywhere from a little to a lot
of proseal around them. We have started just using the gaskets after
putting a little proseal around the nutplates inside the tank. I just
tested a set of tanks and at first test there was a leak around one of
the screws on one tank that was fixed by a quarter turn with a
screwdriver. Maybe a good combination if you are worried would be just
the gaskets and then a bead around the outside of the gasket with
proseal, and maybe a little proseal around the screws (but not on the
head).
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
6/28/2007 5:57 PM
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com
Message 14
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| Subject: | check your tire tubes... |
http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 070626X00800&key=1
A fellow RV-8 builder found a defective tube the hard way on his first test
flight. He said inflate the tube and press on the seams to see if it leaks.
The tube came from Vans and says Made In Mexico. Data point Vans was less
than helpful when contacted. :-(
Regards,
Jay
Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search
that gives answers, not web links.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/mobileweb/onesearch?refer=1ONXIC
Message 15
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I appears that no one is using the TT Yaw Damper with Rudder Trim. Price maybe
the a factor, since it cost around $4000. I do not have time to make any major
mods to the rudder, since I go to the paint shop this month. So I will be
using a plastic wedge from ACS for now.
However has anyone looked into using a spring biased system for rudder trim similar
to the vans aileron trim system?
--------
MARK SUTHERLAND
RV-10 40292
Flying since June 07
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=121216#121216
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: check your tire tubes... |
Thanks for the insight, but I question something here. Mentioning the tube
came from Van's and they were less than helpful makes me question who is at
fault. The guy sees the tire is low but inflates it before the flight. Lands
with a flat tire. hmm... did Van's send the tire already mounted with the
"defective" tube? did the tire never lose air before (aka while waiting to
have kit completed/before flight)? how do we know when the builder mounted
the tire he didn't pinch the tube? I have done so with my bike so I could
see this happening with this tire..
Ultimately, it is the pilot who owns the final responsibility for assuring
all issues are resolved. A tire just doesn't go flat when flying, there was
something wrong before it ever took off indicated by the "low right tire"
Maybe Van's was less than helpful for legal reasons, offer to help someone
and they just might blame them and the "fact that you help, indicates you
acknowledge it was your fault".
People replaced WD-415 thinking it inadequate, the builder should have
replaced that tube regardless of where it was built and who sold it to him.
Pascal
Do not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jay Brinkmeyer" <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 7:53 AM
Subject: RV10-List: check your tire tubes...
>
>
> http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 070626X00800&key=1
>
> A fellow RV-8 builder found a defective tube the hard way on his first
> test
> flight. He said. "inflate the tube and press on the seams to see if it
> leaks".
> The tube came from Vans and says "Made In Mexico". Data point. Vans was
> less
> than helpful when contacted. :-(
>
> Regards,
> Jay
>
>
> Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search
> that gives answers, not web links.
> http://mobile.yahoo.com/mobileweb/onesearch?refer=1ONXIC
>
>
>
Message 17
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I just put the Fuel Lube on the gasket, not the screws. We'll see if it
keeps the gasket from drying.
John
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 9:26 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: QB tanks
Did you use the lube on the threads of the screws or just on the face of
the
gasket? I can=92t say that I see any problem with it, although I am
certainly
no expert on Fuel Lube. The main problem with just using the gasket, as
I
understand it, is that the rubber can dry out and crack. I don=92t know
the
affect of fuel lube on the rubber. Others would be much more qualified
to
answer this.
Do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com"jesse@saintaviation.com
HYPERLINK "http://www.saintaviation.com"www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Testement
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 8:55 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: QB tanks
Jesse,
I used the gaskets with Fuel Lube. I have tested the tanks (even removed
them to test the back side), and they test ok. I used the balloon and
soapy
water method. Do you see any potential problems with the gasket/Fuel
Lube
approach?
John Testement
HYPERLINK "mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com"jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Paint prep and LOTS of misc stuff
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 8:03 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: QB tanks
Dave,
Some people are leaving out the gaskets completely and just using
proseal
and others are going the other extreme, using no proseal and just the
gaskets. Either way has benefits. With just proseal, you will probably
go
longer without leaks, but if/when it becomes time to replace the
senders, it
will be more work to do so. Using just the gaskets makes it much easier
to
change the senders, but the rubber will most likely dry out and crack
and
give you leaks sometime down the road. Many are using the gaskets and
putting anywhere from a little to a lot of proseal around them. We have
started just using the gaskets after putting a little proseal around the
nutplates inside the tank. I just tested a set of tanks and at first
test
there was a leak around one of the screws on one tank that was fixed by
a
quarter turn with a screwdriver. Maybe a good combination if you are
worried would be just the gaskets and then a bead around the outside of
the
gasket with proseal, and maybe a little proseal around the screws (but
not
on the head).
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com"jesse@saintaviation.com
HYPERLINK "http://www.saintaviation.com"www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
6/28/2007 5:57 PM
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Na
vig
ator?RV10-List
"http://forums.matronics.com"http://forums.matronics.com
6/28/2007
5:57 PM
6/28/2007
5:57 PM
Message 18
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|
I recently tested my tanks using the balloon and soap and water method.
No leaks found.
I didn't have the nerve or knowledge to blow the balloon up to 14". The
warnings about not using too much pressure got my attention. I just
took up to where it the balloon starts to stretch if that makes any
sense. How much pressure should be used here? how do you measure it?
should I redo it and blow a balloon up to many inches? Your
thoughts/experience welcome.
I didn't use anything on the gasket but I intend to use fuel lube on
both the gasket and the threads. It appears to be what fuel lube if for
- a non-drying, petrochemical resistant sealant for fittings that have
fuel trying to leak out. I guess pro-seal sounds like the samething
except it would seem to get hard over time.
Bill "installing wires for autopilot servo and LED position lights in
wings" Watson
John Testement wrote:
> I just put the Fuel Lube on the gasket, not the screws. We'll see if
> it keeps the gasket from drying.
>
> John
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Jesse Saint
> *Sent:* Friday, June 29, 2007 9:26 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: QB tanks
>
> Did you use the lube on the threads of the screws or just on the face
> of the gasket? I cant say that I see any problem with it, although I
> am certainly no expert on Fuel Lube. The main problem with just using
> the gasket, as I understand it, is that the rubber can dry out and
> crack. I dont know the affect of fuel lube on the rubber. Others
> would be much more qualified to answer this.
>
>
>
> Do not archive
>
>
>
> Jesse Saint
>
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>
> jesse@saintaviation.com <mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com>
>
> www.saintaviation.com <http://www.saintaviation.com>
>
> Cell: 352-427-0285
>
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *John
> Testement
> *Sent:* Friday, June 29, 2007 8:55 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: QB tanks
>
>
>
> Jesse,
>
>
>
> I used the gaskets with Fuel Lube. I have tested the tanks (even
> removed them to test the back side), and they test ok. I used the
> balloon and soapy water method. Do you see any potential problems with
> the gasket/Fuel Lube approach?
>
>
>
> John Testement
> jwt@roadmapscoaching.com <mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
> 40321
>
> Richmond, VA
> Paint prep and LOTS of misc stuff
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Jesse Saint
> *Sent:* Friday, June 29, 2007 8:03 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: QB tanks
>
> Dave,
>
>
>
> Some people are leaving out the gaskets completely and just using
> proseal and others are going the other extreme, using no proseal and
> just the gaskets. Either way has benefits. With just proseal, you
> will probably go longer without leaks, but if/when it becomes time to
> replace the senders, it will be more work to do so. Using just the
> gaskets makes it much easier to change the senders, but the rubber
> will most likely dry out and crack and give you leaks sometime down
> the road. Many are using the gaskets and putting anywhere from a
> little to a lot of proseal around them. We have started just using
> the gaskets after putting a little proseal around the nutplates inside
> the tank. I just tested a set of tanks and at first test there was a
> leak around one of the screws on one tank that was fixed by a quarter
> turn with a screwdriver. Maybe a good combination if you are worried
> would be just the gaskets and then a bead around the outside of the
> gasket with proseal, and maybe a little proseal around the screws (but
> not on the head).
>
>
>
> Jesse Saint
>
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>
> jesse@saintaviation.com <mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com>
>
> www.saintaviation.com <http://www.saintaviation.com>
>
> Cell: 352-427-0285
>
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> 6/28/2007 5:57 PM
>
> * *
> * *
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
> **
> **
> **
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
> **
> * *
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>
> *
> 6/28/2007 5:57 PM
> *
>
>
> *
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: RV Amphibian |
I believe Trey got the plans for his floats from Mr. Bowhay.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=121250#121250
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: Wire Book for RV-10 |
Gary,
There is a downloadable schematic for a RV7A at the following link: http://
www.matronics.com/photoshare/SMITHBKN@aol.com.12.25.2005/ it is under the t
itle "Peer review Electrical.xls"
It's based on a two battery/one alternator system with fuses (but breakers
could be substituted.) It may give you some ideas. The cool thing is it is
all in Excel and still you can manipulate the drawing without a CAD system.
Vern Smith (#324 fuselage)
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Wire Book for RV-10> From: gary@wingscc.com> Dat
e: Fri, 29 Jun 2007 07:14:18 -0700> To: rv10-list@matronics.com> > --> RV10
-List message posted by: "orchidman" <gary@wingscc.com>> > Guess I needed t
o be more specific. There are 2 samples on the AeroElectronic CD that are l
abeled =98Wire Book=99 that are about 30 pages of wiring diagra
ms. They are printable into a book form with a basic wiring diagram similar
to what we see from many people plus other detailed diagrams with finer de
tails of each segment or component.> > Has anyone done one of these for the
=9310? Before you do a complete load analysis or inventory of all co
mponents, you need a complete and detailed wiring diagram.> > --------> Gar
y Blankenbiller> RV10 - # 40674> (N410GB reserved)> do not archive> > > > >
Read this topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?
=====================> > >
_________________________________________________________________
Play free games, earn tickets, get cool prizes! Join Live Search Club.-
http://club.live.com/home.aspx?icid=CLUB_wlmailtextlink
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Wire Book for RV-10 |
Vernon Smith wrote:
> Gary,
>
> There is a downloadable schematic for a RV7A at the following link:
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/SMITHBKN@aol.com.12.25.2005/ it is
> under the title "Peer review Electrical.xls"
>
> It's based on a two battery/one alternator system with fuses (but
> breakers could be substituted.) It may give you some ideas. The cool
> thing is it is all in Excel and still you can manipulate the drawing
> without a CAD system.
>
> Vern Smith (#324 fuselage)
>
>
> > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Wire Book for RV-10
> > From: gary@wingscc.com
> > Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2007 07:14:18 -0700
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> >
> >
> > Guess I needed to be more specific. There are 2 samples on the
> AeroElectronic CD that are labeled Wire Book that are about 30
> pages of wiring diagrams. They are printable into a book form with a
> basic wiring diagram similar to what we see from many people plus
> other detailed diagrams with finer details of each segment or component.
> >
> > Has anyone done one of these for the 10? Before you do a complete
> load analysis or inventory of all components, you need a complete and
> detailed wiring diagram.
> >
> > --------
> > Gary Blankenbiller
> > RV10 - # 40674
> > (N410GB reserved)
> > do not archive
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=121205#121205
> >
> >
> >
> &g=======================
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Play free games, earn tickets, get cool prizes! Join Live Search
> Club. Join Live Search Club!
> <http://club.live.com/home.aspx?icid=CLUB_wlmailtextlink>
> *
>
>
> *
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
Saved that one for later! Thanks Vern!!
Carlos in AZ
RV-7A N174PP-reserved
Do Not Archive
--
Carlos Hernandez <carlosh@sec-engr.com>
Structural Engineers, LLC
2963 W. Elliot Rd. - Suite 3
Chandler, AZ 85224
Phone: 480.968.8600
Fax: 480.968.8608
www.sec-engr.com
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE
The information in this email may be confidential and/or privileged.
This email is intended to be reviewed by only the individual or
organization named above. If you are not the intended recipient or
an authorized representative of the intended recipient, you are hereby
notified that any review, dissemination or copyingof this email and
its attachments, if any, or the information contained herein is
prohibited. If you havereceived this email in error, please
immediately notify the sender by return email and delete this email
from your system.
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: Starter damage after kick back on hot start |
This is all pretty much conjecture since I haven't a clue what really
went on .... but kickback is usually caused by the right (non-impulse)
mag firing at low engine RPM. The only other way for kickback to occur
would be if there was a piece of red-hot carbon still in the offending
cylinder .... and I wouldn't expect it to last the 5-8 minutes you were
shut down. If you don't have a mag switch with a start position and you
started on both ...... especially with the sky-tec starter ..... or the
right mag has a p-lead problem ...... I'd expect to get kickback.
Linn
do not archive
Randy DeBauw wrote:
> We about a week ago I gave a friend a ride in Central Washington. It
> was in the low 90's deg oat. I dropped him off and I was on the
> ground for 5 - 8 min. When I tried my normal hot restart I have been
> using for 2 years experienced a kick back. This was not normal at all
> and to keep it from doing it again I went full rich on mix and ran
> fuel pump for 5 seconds or so to add some cold fuel to the cylinders.
> I knew that it would give me a flooded condition but that was my
> intent. This added cool fuel the intake and I was able to make a
> flooded hot start with no problem. Here is the issue. Immediately
> after the kick back the starter started to make a grinding noise much
> like the old Chevy starters that needed shimming. I pulled apart the
> starter last night and looked it over. It looked fine. I called SkyTec
> this morning and the confirmed that a kick back will almost always
> cause a bent shaft in the starter. They make the starter so that it
> will give way on kick backs and save the ring gear. They said that to
> replace every part in the starter cost 150.00 buck and is a lot
> cheaper than messing with a new flywheel ring gear. I agree!. So be
> aware if a kick back happens to you and a new noise develops. Randy
> 40006
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Wire Book for RV-10 |
planesmith(at)hotmail.com wrote:
> Gary,
>
> There is a downloadable schematic for a RV7A at the following link: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/SMITHBKN@aol.com.12.25.2005/ (http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/SMITHBKN@aol.com.12.25.2005/) it is under the title "Peer review Electrical.xls"
>
> It's based on a two battery/one alternator system with fuses (but breakers could
be substituted.) It may give you some ideas. The cool thing is it is all
in Excel and still you can manipulate the drawing without a CAD system.
>
> Vern Smith (#324 fuselage)
>
Vern,
The link doesn't seem to work for me.
Gary
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N410GB reserved)
do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=121300#121300
Message 24
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|
I blew the balloon up to what I thought would be easy to measure and detect
shrinkage. No special size or pressure. I would think the pressure to
inflate a balloon would not harm the tanks at all and the balloon would
burst way before any damage would be done to the tank. Now I know even a
moderately small amount of vacuum could crush the tanks. I believe sea
level AP is about 14.5 psi?
Dave Leikam
40496
----- Original Message -----
From: "MauleDriver" <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 1:21 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB tanks
>
> I recently tested my tanks using the balloon and soap and water method.
> No leaks found.
>
> I didn't have the nerve or knowledge to blow the balloon up to 14". The
> warnings about not using too much pressure got my attention. I just took
> up to where it the balloon starts to stretch if that makes any sense. How
> much pressure should be used here? how do you measure it? should I redo it
> and blow a balloon up to many inches? Your thoughts/experience welcome.
>
> I didn't use anything on the gasket but I intend to use fuel lube on both
> the gasket and the threads. It appears to be what fuel lube if for - a
> non-drying, petrochemical resistant sealant for fittings that have fuel
> trying to leak out. I guess pro-seal sounds like the samething except it
> would seem to get hard over time.
>
> Bill "installing wires for autopilot servo and LED position lights in
> wings" Watson
>
>
> John Testement wrote:
>> I just put the Fuel Lube on the gasket, not the screws. We'll see if it
>> keeps the gasket from drying.
>> John
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Jesse Saint
>> *Sent:* Friday, June 29, 2007 9:26 AM
>> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
>> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: QB tanks
>>
>> Did you use the lube on the threads of the screws or just on the face of
>> the gasket? I cant say that I see any problem with it, although I am
>> certainly no expert on Fuel Lube. The main problem with just using the
>> gasket, as I understand it, is that the rubber can dry out and crack. I
>> dont know the affect of fuel lube on the rubber. Others would be much
>> more qualified to answer this.
>>
>>
>> Do not archive
>>
>>
>> Jesse Saint
>>
>> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>>
>> jesse@saintaviation.com <mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com>
>>
>> www.saintaviation.com <http://www.saintaviation.com>
>>
>> Cell: 352-427-0285
>>
>> Fax: 815-377-3694
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *John
>> Testement
>> *Sent:* Friday, June 29, 2007 8:55 AM
>> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
>> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: QB tanks
>>
>>
>> Jesse,
>>
>>
>> I used the gaskets with Fuel Lube. I have tested the tanks (even removed
>> them to test the back side), and they test ok. I used the balloon and
>> soapy water method. Do you see any potential problems with the
>> gasket/Fuel Lube approach?
>>
>>
>> John Testement
>> jwt@roadmapscoaching.com <mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
>> 40321
>>
>> Richmond, VA
>> Paint prep and LOTS of misc stuff
>>
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Jesse Saint
>> *Sent:* Friday, June 29, 2007 8:03 AM
>> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
>> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: QB tanks
>>
>> Dave,
>>
>>
>> Some people are leaving out the gaskets completely and just using proseal
>> and others are going the other extreme, using no proseal and just the
>> gaskets. Either way has benefits. With just proseal, you will probably
>> go longer without leaks, but if/when it becomes time to replace the
>> senders, it will be more work to do so. Using just the gaskets makes it
>> much easier to change the senders, but the rubber will most likely dry
>> out and crack and give you leaks sometime down the road. Many are using
>> the gaskets and putting anywhere from a little to a lot of proseal around
>> them. We have started just using the gaskets after putting a little
>> proseal around the nutplates inside the tank. I just tested a set of
>> tanks and at first test there was a leak around one of the screws on one
>> tank that was fixed by a quarter turn with a screwdriver. Maybe a good
>> combination if you are worried would be just the gaskets and then a bead
>> around the outside of the gasket with proseal, and maybe a little proseal
>> around the screws (but not on the head).
>>
>>
>> Jesse Saint
>>
>> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>>
>> jesse@saintaviation.com <mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com>
>>
>> www.saintaviation.com <http://www.saintaviation.com>
>>
>> Cell: 352-427-0285
>>
>> Fax: 815-377-3694
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>> 6/28/2007 5:57 PM
>>
>> * *
>> * *
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>> **
>> * *
>> *
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>>
>> *
>> 6/28/2007 5:57 PM
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
>
Message 25
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|
The size of the balloon can shrink or grow with temperature change. I don't think
the size of the balloon matters as much as it holding its pressure. Just
IMHO. Also, a small balloon will pop before hitting 14". Size doesn't matter
much here, guys, as long as it is consistent.
Do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc
jesse@saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
352-427-0285
Leather interior kit for the RV-10 -
www.saintaviation.com/interior
-----Original Message-----
From: "Dave Leikam" <DAVELEIKAM@wi.rr.com>
Sent: 6/30/2007 1:48 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB tanks
I blew the balloon up to what I thought would be easy to measure and detect
shrinkage. No special size or pressure. I would think the pressure to
inflate a balloon would not harm the tanks at all and the balloon would
burst way before any damage would be done to the tank. Now I know even a
moderately small amount of vacuum could crush the tanks. I believe sea
level AP is about 14.5 psi?
Dave Leikam
40496
----- Original Message -----
From: "MauleDriver" <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 1:21 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB tanks
>
> I recently tested my tanks using the balloon and soap and water method.
> No leaks found.
>
> I didn't have the nerve or knowledge to blow the balloon up to 14". The
> warnings about not using too much pressure got my attention. I just took
> up to where it the balloon starts to stretch if that makes any sense. How
> much pressure should be used here? how do you measure it? should I redo it
> and blow a balloon up to many inches? Your thoughts/experience welcome.
>
> I didn't use anything on the gasket but I intend to use fuel lube on both
> the gasket and the threads. It appears to be what fuel lube if for - a
> non-drying, petrochemical resistant sealant for fittings that have fuel
> trying to leak out. I guess pro-seal sounds like the samething except it
> would seem to get hard over time.
>
> Bill "installing wires for autopilot servo and LED position lights in
> wings" Watson
>
>
> John Testement wrote:
>> I just put the Fuel Lube on the gasket, not the screws. We'll see if it
>> keeps the gasket from drying.
>> John
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Jesse Saint
>> *Sent:* Friday, June 29, 2007 9:26 AM
>> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
>> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: QB tanks
>>
>> Did you use the lube on the threads of the screws or just on the face of
>> the gasket? I cant say that I see any problem with it, although I am
>> certainly no expert on Fuel Lube. The main problem with just using the
>> gasket, as I understand it, is that the rubber can dry out and crack. I
>> dont know the affect of fuel lube on the rubber. Others would be much
>> more qualified to answer this.
>>
>>
>> Do not archive
>>
>>
>> Jesse Saint
>>
>> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>>
>> jesse@saintaviation.com <mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com>
>>
>> www.saintaviation.com <http://www.saintaviation.com>
>>
>> Cell: 352-427-0285
>>
>> Fax: 815-377-3694
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *John
>> Testement
>> *Sent:* Friday, June 29, 2007 8:55 AM
>> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
>> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: QB tanks
>>
>>
>> Jesse,
>>
>>
>> I used the gaskets with Fuel Lube. I have tested the tanks (even removed
>> them to test the back side), and they test ok. I used the balloon and
>> soapy water method. Do you see any potential problems with the
>> gasket/Fuel Lube approach?
>>
>>
>> John Testement
>> jwt@roadmapscoaching.com <mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
>> 40321
>>
>> Richmond, VA
>> Paint prep and LOTS of misc stuff
>>
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Jesse Saint
>> *Sent:* Friday, June 29, 2007 8:03 AM
>> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
>> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: QB tanks
>>
>> Dave,
>>
>>
>> Some people are leaving out the gaskets completely and just using proseal
>> and others are going the other extreme, using no proseal and just the
>> gaskets. Either way has benefits. With just proseal, you will probably
>> go longer without leaks, but if/when it becomes time to replace the
>> senders, it will be more work to do so. Using just the gaskets makes it
>> much easier to change the senders, but the rubber will most likely dry
>> out and crack and give you leaks sometime down the road. Many are using
>> the gaskets and putting anywhere from a little to a lot of proseal around
>> them. We have started just using the gaskets after putting a little
>> proseal around the nutplates inside the tank. I just tested a set of
>> tanks and at first test there was a leak around one of the screws on o
[truncated by sender]
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