Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:07 AM - Cool Tools (Les Kearney)
2. 06:31 AM - Re: Cool Tools (John W. Cox)
3. 06:33 AM - Re: RTV As a sealant (Kelly McMullen)
4. 07:00 AM - Re: Cool Tools (Michael Schipper)
5. 09:45 AM - Flush door latch (RobHickman@aol.com)
6. 10:08 AM - Re: Flush door latch (Deems Davis)
7. 02:18 PM - Re: Flush door latch (Ben Westfall)
8. 07:06 PM - tungsten bucking bar (Dave Leikam)
9. 08:44 PM - Pitot tube connection to tubing (orchidman)
10. 08:55 PM - Re: Pitot tube connection to tubing (Tim Olson)
11. 09:17 PM - Re: tungsten bucking bar (neil)
12. 09:55 PM - Re: tungsten bucking bar (Les Kearney)
13. 11:15 PM - Nose gear (dogsbark@comcast.net)
Message 1
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Hi
While at KOSH I was in the market for a few tools. I did see the Cleaveland
Tools tungsten bucking bar: See
http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=BBT41
This gem weighs 1.7 lbs and is very small. I have spent a few hours riveting
with it and found that it is much more stable than steel bars. I guess this
is because it easier to get more mass behind the rivet. It size lets it get
into some very tight spots. At a $120, it is worth every penny.
Another thing I picked up was the quick change chuck along with the #30, #
40 and Jacobs Chuck adapter. See
http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=QC65 for info. This
is even better
than having two drills has you can change drill bits faster than you change
air lines.
Cheers
Les Kearney
RV10 #40643
Message 2
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Tungsten in raw dimension is going for $3.50 to $4.50 per ounce - on
Ebay. The Yard Store, in their latest catalog has an entire page
devoted to milled "finish dimension" tungsten bucking bars at a
substantial cost increase per ounce. It pays to have a friend with a
mill.
John Cox
#600
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2007 12:04 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Cool Tools
Hi
While at KOSH I was in the market for a few tools. I did see the
Cleaveland Tools tungsten bucking bar: See
http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=BBT41
This gem weighs 1.7 lbs and is very small. I have spent a few hours
riveting with it and found that it is much more stable than steel bars.
I guess this is because it easier to get more mass behind the rivet. It
size lets it get into some very tight spots. At a $120, it is worth
every penny.
Another thing I picked up was the quick change chuck along with the #30,
# 40 and Jacobs Chuck adapter. See
http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=QC65 for info.
This is even better
than having two drills has you can change drill bits faster than you
change air lines.
Cheers
Les Kearney
RV10 #40643
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: RTV As a sealant |
HI Les,
As John explained, the term ProSeal is generic like RTV in that there are
many versions with totally different capabilities. So the instructions are
correct.
They call for ProSeal of the high temperature variety for the fire wall, if
I understand correctly.
Kelly
On 8/10/07, Les Kearney <kearney@shaw.ca> wrote:
>
> John / Vernon
>
>
> Thanks for the advice. I do want to se the right material and thought
> perhaps RTV would be an acceptable substitute. My A&P (AME in Canada) has
> used it in my engine compartment so I thought it might be an easier mater
ial
> to use. It is curious that the plans specify proseal while there is a van
s
> firewall sealer available for just this purpose.
>
>
> Thanks again
>
>
> Les
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *John W. Cox
> *Sent:* August-10-07 3:28 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: RTV As a sealant
>
>
> Pro-Seal is a brand name of DeSoto ' PPG sealant. It comes in over 40
> flavors. Several will and do withstand high temperature on our Air Carri
er
> Fleet the Dash 8/200 turboprop, Q400 turboprop and CRJ-700 Turbines.
> MC-CS-1900 is used for just one specific purpose. RTV has its own
> applications.
>
>
> The use of a Mono-inject syringe is quite commonly used when the smaller
> quantity is less than justifying a Semco pneumatic gun. I have three siz
es
> of guns and still resort to a syringe for really small jobs.
>
>
> Use of the correct material is always better than speculation. But then
> each builder has the right and responsibility as the final Manufacturer t
o
> pick appropriate products or do whatever moves them. VANS just designed
the
> thing and made a bunch of cool products to throw at it. Silicone based
> compounds are a real bitch when a paintable surface is desired. ProSeal
is
> great with primer, paints or au naturale.
>
>
> Knowing your choices and picking wisely is what makes this pastime so muc
h
> fun.
>
>
> John C.
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Vernon Smith
> *Sent:* Friday, August 10, 2007 1:49 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: RTV As a sealant
>
>
> Hi Les,
>
> The plans say Pro-Seal , however the correct material is Firewall Sealant
> Van's part number *MC-CS-1900.*
> Firewall sealant is good to 2000 degrees fuel tank sealant is not.
> Tip for working with Firewall sealant it doesn't have the same consistenc
e
> as fuel tank sealant. more like a juice blub of foam (weird stuff.)
> Anyway put it into a mono-inject or syringe without a needle and "inject
> it" where you need it.
>
> I can't say much about using RTV other than what a Tech counselor told me
> "your building a $100,000+ dollar plane $20 bucks for the right material
> isn't much in the grand scheme of things."
>
> Have fun,
>
> Vern Smith (#324 rudder pedals)
>
> > Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 21:20:01 -0600
> > From: kearney@shaw.ca
> > Subject: RV10-List: RTV As a sealant
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> >
> >
> > Hi
> >
> > As I work through the firewall, I noticed that the plans call for
> Pro-Seal
> > to seal the firewall recess as well as around the air vents.
> >
> > Is there any issue in using RTV 732 as a sealant in this type of
> > application? Aside from fuel tanks, when would use of pro-seal be
> essential
> > versus something like RTV?
> >
> > Inquiring minds need to know...
> >
> > Les Kearney*
> >
> >
> > *
> *
> ------------------------------
> *
>
> *Recharge--play some free games. Win cool prizes too! Play It!<http://clu
b.live.com/home.aspx?icid=CLUB_wlmailtextlink>
> *
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> * *
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> * *
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===========
===========
===========
>
> *
>
>
Message 4
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I have to agree with Les that those tungsten bucking bars are totally
great. And at the stated price of $4.50 per ounce, the $120 being
charged by Cleaveland for a 1.7 pound bucking bar is cheaper than
milling one yourself.
The best thing is that because of the small size, you can fit the
tungsten bucking bar just about everywhere. I use mine almost
exclusively.
Mike Schipper
RV-10 #576 - www.rvten.com
RV-9A - N63MS - Flying
On Aug 11, 2007, at 8:30 AM, John W. Cox wrote:
> Tungsten in raw dimension is going for $3.50 to $4.50 per ounce '
> on Ebay. The Yard Store, in their latest catalog has an entire
> page devoted to milled =93finish dimension=94 tungsten bucking bars at
> a substantial cost increase per ounce. It pays to have a friend
> with a mill.
>
>
> John Cox
>
> #600
>
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
> Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2007 12:04 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Cool Tools
>
>
> Hi
>
>
> While at KOSH I was in the market for a few tools. I did see the
> Cleaveland Tools tungsten bucking bar: Seehttp://
> www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=BBT41
>
>
> This gem weighs 1.7 lbs and is very small. I have spent a few hours
> riveting with it and found that it is much more stable than steel
> bars. I guess this is because it easier to get more mass behind the
> rivet. It size lets it get into some very tight spots. At a $120,
> it is worth every penny.
>
>
> Another thing I picked up was the quick change chuck along with the
> #30, # 40 and Jacobs Chuck adapter. Seehttp://
> www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=QC65 for info. This
> is even better
>
> than having two drills has you can change drill bits faster than
> you change air lines.
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
> Les Kearney
>
> RV10 #40643
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
>
List
> ========================
> ========================
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Flush door latch |
How many people have installed a flush door latch and how did they work?
I have thought about using the Cross Aviation or some from a Glasair
Sportsman?
Thanks,
Rob Hickman
N402RH RV-10
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Flush door latch |
Rob, I installed them, other than being a bit pricey and having to fab
your own linkage ,there's really no issue, They are much improved in
appearance. Here's a link to an album that has 20 + pics of the install.
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2045%20Cabin%20Doors%20and%20Transparancies/slides/DSC03614.html
And here's the log page that contains links to the write ups of all of
the steps that correspond to the plans section
http://deemsrv10.com/cabinwindowslogindex.html
I know that Rivethead (aka Davie Chazowrowski) is working on a new
handle set to replace Van's. it's not flush, but the inside handle is
very attractive by comparison.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
RobHickman@aol.com wrote:
> How many people have installed a flush door latch and how did they work?
>
> I have thought about using the Cross Aviation or some from a Glasair
> Sportsman?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Rob Hickman
> N402RH RV-10
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> <http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour/?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000982>.
> *
>
>
> *
Message 7
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| Subject: | Flush door latch |
Rob,
Check out these too http://www.iflyrv10.com/iflyrv10/index.html. I bought a
set a couple days ago. They are in transit so I don't have them yet. They
are supposed to work with the stock Vans doorlatch assembly and pushrods.
-Ben
PDX
#40579
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
RobHickman@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2007 9:44 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Flush door latch
How many people have installed a flush door latch and how did they work?
I have thought about using the Cross Aviation or some from a Glasair
Sportsman?
Thanks,
Rob Hickman
N402RH RV-10
_____
<http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour/?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000982> .
Message 8
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| Subject: | tungsten bucking bar |
Does anyone recommend purchasing a tungsten bucking bar? They are
pricey little buggers. And what size do you recommend?
Dave Leikam
40496
QB Wings
Message 9
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| Subject: | Pitot tube connection to tubing |
I have checked out several builders sites to try to see what others are using to
connect their heated pitot tube tube that comes out of the unit to the AL tubing
in the wing and so far no avail, so I am asking here.
I plan on running the standard AL tubing through the wing to my Gretz pitot. I
could flare the CU tube but I think I have heard others say that they have used
auto vacume tubing to connect the 2 tubes.
Comments would be appreciated.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N410GB reserved)
do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=128685#128685
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube connection to tubing |
It can be done many ways and be fine, but I just ran the aluminum all
the way to the copper from the root, and looped a coil at the end of the
AL tubing as a strain relief. As long as you don't have something
plastic too close to a heated pitot's element, it doesn't matter much,
but you don't want anything chafing the tubing in the wing.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
orchidman wrote:
>
> I have checked out several builders sites to try to see what others are using
to connect their heated pitot tube tube that comes out of the unit to the AL
tubing in the wing and so far no avail, so I am asking here.
>
> I plan on running the standard AL tubing through the wing to my Gretz pitot.
I could flare the CU tube but I think I have heard others say that they have
used auto vacume tubing to connect the 2 tubes.
>
> Comments would be appreciated.
>
> --------
> Gary Blankenbiller
> RV10 - # 40674
> (N410GB reserved)
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=128685#128685
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: tungsten bucking bar |
Bought mine from Stein.
Wouldn't do without it. But then we didn't have a pneumatic squeezer
either.
Neil.
On 12 Aug 2007, at 15:08, Dave Leikam wrote:
> Does anyone recommend purchasing a tungsten bucking bar?- They are
> pricey little buggers.- And what size do you recommend?
> -
> Dave Leikam
> 40496
> QB Wings
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | tungsten bucking bar |
Dave
I purchased the Cleaveland bar at KOSH. I have just spent the day riveting
the forward fuse bottom skins with it. Actually my friend Larry was on the
bar and I was on the gun. Anyway, we were able to use it to do all but a few
of the rivets. It has a small cross section so it can get into very tight
spaces.
I expect that it is a bit more usable than a bar that is shaped more like a
bar of soap rather than the long thin bar from Cleaveland. It is worth
noting that one end of the Cleaveland bar has a slight bevel which was very
hand in tight spots around flanges etc.
It has made an immense difference in my riveting especially when shooting
AN470 rivets.
Cheers
Les Kearney
RV # 40643
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: August-11-07 9:08 PM
Subject: RV10-List: tungsten bucking bar
Does anyone recommend purchasing a tungsten bucking bar? They are pricey
little buggers. And what size do you recommend?
Dave Leikam
40496
QB Wings
Message 13
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I started putting on the landing gear tonight and noticed the nose gear has a curve
in it. The curve creates a gap of about 3/16th of an inch left to right when
I put a straight edge on it. Has anyone else seen this?
Also, it appears the gear has a slight twist in the longitudinal axis.
I will let Van's know. Just curious of other's experience.
Here's a link to a pic.
http://websites.expercraft.com/seanb/images/149276665146bea29a87a21.jpg
Thanks,
Sean Blair
#40225
<html><body>
<DIV>I started putting on the landing gear tonight and noticed the nose gear has
a curve in it. The curve creates a gap of about 3/16th of an inch left
to right when I put a straight edge on it. Has anyone else seen this?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Also, it appears the gear has a slight twist in the longitudinal axis.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I will let Van's know. Just curious of other's experience.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Here's a link to a pic.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><A href="http://websites.expercraft.com/seanb/images/149276665146bea29a87a21.jpg">http://websites.expercraft.com/seanb/images/149276665146bea29a87a21.jpg</A></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Thanks,</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Sean Blair</DIV>
<DIV>#40225</DIV>
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