Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:37 AM - Re: Old HID, New HID (PJ Seipel)
2. 04:09 AM - Re: Old HID, New HID (darnpilot@aol.com)
3. 06:08 AM - Re: Old HID, New HID (Les Kearney)
4. 07:24 AM - Re: Re: Trimming the cowling (Rick Sked)
5. 07:38 AM - Fw: HID Lights (Pascal)
6. 07:50 AM - Re: Old HID, New HID (Pascal)
7. 08:37 AM - Re: Old HID, New HID (Robin Marks)
8. 09:17 AM - Re: Slick Mags (Roger Standley)
9. 10:18 AM - Garmin 430W current draw? (jayb)
10. 10:49 AM - Re: Garmin 430W current draw? (FLAGSTONE)
11. 11:23 AM - Re: Slick Mags (Bill DeRouchey)
12. 11:38 AM - Re: Garmin 430W current draw? (Kelly McMullen)
13. 11:43 AM - Re: Slick Mags (Bill DeRouchey)
14. 01:36 PM - Re: Slick Mags (McGANN, Ron)
15. 01:36 PM - Re: Slick Mags (McGANN, Ron)
16. 01:39 PM - Re: Corrosion Treatment Primer Suggestions (John Jessen)
17. 02:04 PM - Re: Slick Mags (Roger Standley)
18. 02:12 PM - Re: Corrosion Treatment Primer Suggestions (bruce breckenridge)
19. 02:15 PM - G900X Size (Jesse Saint)
20. 02:49 PM - Re: G900X Size (Robin Marks)
21. 03:04 PM - Re: G900X Size (SteinAir, Inc.)
22. 03:05 PM - Re: G900X Size (John W. Cox)
23. 03:43 PM - Re: G900X Size (SteinAir, Inc.)
24. 03:53 PM - Re: Slick Mags (Bill DeRouchey)
25. 04:38 PM - Re: Corrosion Treatment Primer Suggestions (Kelly McMullen)
26. 05:17 PM - Re: Corrosion Treatment Primer Suggestions (Mike Doble (Home Office))
27. 07:13 PM - Re: Slick Mags (mckervey)
28. 09:26 PM - Re: Slick Mags (Bill DeRouchey)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Old HID, New HID |
Tom,
I'd like copies too if you don't mind.
PJ Seipel
do not archive
tom.on.the.road@juno.com wrote:
>
> Pascal,
>
> I tried to post the photos, but the list wouldn't show them, so I'll send
> them to your email.
>
> Tom
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Old HID, New HID |
Tom:
Please send photos of lights to me too.? Thanks.
Jeff
Darnpilot@aol.com
-----Original Message-----
From: tom.on.the.road@juno.com
Sent: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 11:20 pm
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Old HID, New HID
Pascal,
I tried to post the photos, but the list wouldn't show them, so I'll send
them to your email.
Tom
________________________________________________________________________
Message 3
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| Subject: | Old HID, New HID |
HI Tom
Would you send the photos to me as well?
Many thanks
Les Kearney
#40643
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
tom.on.the.road@juno.com
Sent: February-03-08 6:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Old HID, New HID
Big difference: better case, better airflow, easy to install.
www.dirtlights.com .
Tom
970-420-1798
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Trimming the cowling |
I'll measure it tonight, funny I eyeballed the cut after looking at Wayne's RV-10
at Nellis. I should have been gambling yesterday because I hit it right on
the money. It is about 4 inches from the front of the air intake.I'll make some
.032 panels with nutplates on the cowl to tie it all together and return the
cowl to proper strength on the bottom
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 3, 2008 11:19:30 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Trimming the cowling
Rick,
how long is the cut for the slot that you did. I also have a three blade prop and
I know I need to cut the slot longer. It works right now because the front
gear wheel sits on a box.
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162282#162282
Message 5
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----- Original Message -----
From: <tom.on.the.road@juno.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 8:22 PM
Subject: HID Lights
> Here they are.
>
> Tom
> 970-420-1798
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Old HID, New HID |
I put the photos on my site.
http://rv10builder.net/test.aspx
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: <tom.on.the.road@juno.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 8:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Old HID, New HID
>
> Pascal,
>
> I tried to post the photos, but the list wouldn't show them, so I'll send
> them to your email.
>
> Tom
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Old HID, New HID |
Me too, me too. BTW if you want me to post the photos I would be happy
to do so.
Robin
Do Not Archive
Message 8
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Slick MagsHi Ron,=0A=0AI've been working this subject, also, and
have gathered and crunched data from a number of sources to find what
we need. The best data came from OC Baker on the AeroElectric-List. T
he Slick Service Letter SL2-96 that comes with the SlickStart mostly a
ddresses replacement of existing ignition vibrators, not a fresh new i
nstallation. One of the concerns not clearly addressed in SL2-96 is ho
w to ground out the right mag out while cranking the engine to ensure
that the right mag does not fire at twenty some degrees before top dea
d center (TDC) and create a kick back. Apparently, the grounding out c
an be accomplished either by the way the starting switch wiring is con
nected or by the way the SkickStart is connected to accomplish the nee
ded grounding. =0A=0A =0A=0ALets set the stage: I am usin
g the keyed start switch, IO-540D4A5, SlickStart (SS1001), electrical
and FWF kits, all from Van's. The IO-540 came with a retard breaker Sl
ick mag on the left and a non retard breaker Slick mag on the right. T
he retard terminal is labeled on the left mag. No impulse coupler is o
n either mag.=0A=0A =0A=0APer SL2-96, SlickStart Pin VIN i
s the electrical supply into the unit and is connected to the output s
ide of the starter solenoid through a 5 amp fuse to this pin. Then whe
never you are feeding electricity to the starter you are also feeding
the SlickStart. SlickStart Pin GND is connected to the grounding screw
on the left mag (retard breaker magneto). SlickStart Pin 1 is connec
ted to the P-lead terminal of the left mag. Pin 3 is connected to the
left mag retard breaker terminal. According to OC Baker, the function
of Pin 3 is to tell Pin 1 to fire only when the retard breaker points
are open which will be near top dead center. This provides the retard
ed spark which is desired while the engine is cranking. So far, so goo
d. =0A=0A =0A=0ANow is where SL2-96 and Page OP37-13 of Va
n's RV-10 Wiring Harness Manual become a little unclear. One of the co
nfigurations in SL2-96 says=0A=0ASlickStart Pin 2 gets connected
to the P-lead of the right mag (non-retard breaker magneto). OC Baker
says that the purpose of Pin 2 is to ground out the right magneto so
that it can not fire an advanced (twenty some degrees before TDC) spar
k while the engine is cranking. The diagram on Van's Page OP37-13 impl
ies there should be a jumper between the R terminal and GND terminal o
f the keyed start switch. And that this jumper causes the right mag to
be grounded only while the keyed start switch is in the "start" posit
ion. This seems to be redundant with SlickStart Pin 2 but it also seem
s that doing both would not be harmful. I need some help here.=0A
=0A =0A=0AWell, that is what I have so far. I kick this out t
o the List for helpful review/critique/inputs/help/feedback. Please, n
o flames!=0A=0A=0A=0ARoger Standley=0A=0AN291RV (Res
erved)=0A=0A ----- Original Message ----- =0A From: McGANN,
Ron<mailto:ron.mcgann@baesystems.com> =0A To: rv10-list@matronics
com<mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com> =0A Sent: Sunday, February 03
, 2008 3:09 PM=0A Subject: RV10-List: Slick Mags=0A=0A=0A
=0A=0A Anybody have any technical data for the Slick mags inclu
ded with 540 supplied by Vans? I am installing a Slick Start and the
lack of data on the mags is a PITA. =0A=0A TIA =0A Ron
=0A 187 =0A=0A"Warning:=0AThe information contained in this
email and any attached files is=0Aconfidential to BAE Systems Austr
alia. If you are not the intended=0Arecipient, any use, disclosure
or copying of this email or any=0Aattachments is expressly prohibit
ed. If you have received this email=0Ain error, please notify us i
mmediately. VIRUS: Every care has been=0Ataken to ensure this email
and its attachments are virus free,=0Ahowever, any loss or damage
incurred in using this email is not the=0Asender's responsibility.
It is your responsibility to ensure virus=0Achecks are completed b
efore installing any data sent in this email to=0Ayour computer."
=======================
=======================
=======================
=======================
=======================
=======================
=======================
=======0A=0A
Message 9
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| Subject: | Garmin 430W current draw? |
Does anyone know the specifics of GNS430W max current draw? I poked around the
net and didn't find anything specific enough to do bus planning.
Thanks,
Jay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162351#162351
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin 430W current draw? |
Jay:
For 14volts, Main Connector = 2.5A, Comm Connector = 3.0A(Rec)/6.0A(Trans),
Superflag(????) = 500mA max per output.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 10:13 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Garmin 430W current draw?
>
> Does anyone know the specifics of GNS430W max current draw? I poked around
the net and didn't find anything specific enough to do bus planning.
>
> Thanks,
> Jay
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162351#162351
>
>
Message 11
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Ron-
You have done your homework. This is exactly the setup I am using with both the
Slickstart and the switch grounding the right mag. Only reason for the double
grounding is a backfire can be very expensive and the cost is zero to add protection
for a broken wire.
Bill
N939SB
Roger Standley <taildragon@msn.com> wrote:
Hi Ron,
Ive been working this subject, also, and have gathered and crunched data from
a number of sources to find what we need. The best data came from OC Baker
on the AeroElectric-List. The Slick Service Letter SL2-96 that comes with the
SlickStart mostly addresses replacement of existing ignition vibrators, not a
fresh new installation. One of the concerns not clearly addressed in SL2-96 is
how to ground out the right mag out while cranking the engine to ensure that
the right mag does not fire at twenty some degrees before top dead center (TDC)
and create a kick back. Apparently, the grounding out can be accomplished either
by the way the starting switch wiring is connected or by the way the SkickStart
is connected to accomplish the needed grounding.
Lets set the stage: I am using the keyed start switch, IO-540D4A5, SlickStart
(SS1001), electrical and FWF kits, all from Vans. The IO-540 came with a retard
breaker Slick mag on the left and a non retard breaker Slick mag on the right.
The retard terminal is labeled on the left mag. No impulse coupler is on either
mag.
Per SL2-96, SlickStart Pin VIN is the electrical supply into the unit and is
connected to the output side of the starter solenoid through a 5 amp fuse to this
pin. Then whenever you are feeding electricity to the starter you are also
feeding the SlickStart. SlickStart Pin GND is connected to the grounding screw
on the left mag (retard breaker magneto). SlickStart Pin 1 is connected to
the P-lead terminal of the left mag. Pin 3 is connected to the left mag retard
breaker terminal. According to OC Baker, the function of Pin 3 is to tell Pin
1 to fire only when the retard breaker points are open which will be near top
dead center. This provides the retarded spark which is desired while the engine
is cranking. So far, so good.
Now is where SL2-96 and Page OP37-13 of Vans RV-10 Wiring Harness Manual become
a little unclear. One of the configurations in SL2-96 says
SlickStart Pin 2 gets connected to the P-lead of the right mag (non-retard breaker
magneto). OC Baker says that the purpose of Pin 2 is to ground out the right
magneto so that it can not fire an advanced (twenty some degrees before TDC)
spark while the engine is cranking. The diagram on Vans Page OP37-13 implies
there should be a jumper between the R terminal and GND terminal of the keyed
start switch. And that this jumper causes the right mag to be grounded only
while the keyed start switch is in the start position This seems to be redundant
with SlickStart Pin 2 but it also seems that doing both would not be harmful.
I need some help here
Well, that is what I have so far. I kick this out to the List for helpful review/critique/inputs/help/feedback.
Please, no flames!
Roger Standley
N291RV (Reserved)
----- Original Message -----
From: McGANN, Ron
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 3:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Slick Mags
Anybody have any technical data for the Slick mags included with 540 supplied
by Vans? I am installing a Slick Start and the lack of data on the mags is a
PITA.
TIA
Ron
187
"Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential
to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient,
any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly
prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately.
VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments
are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email
is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to your
computer."
http://ww============================================================================================f="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c=============================================
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin 430W current draw? |
You need the continuous draw figure, not the max draw, which is an
intermittent load, only when you transmit.
On Feb 4, 2008 11:13 AM, jayb <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Does anyone know the specifics of GNS430W max current draw? I poked around
> the net and didn't find anything specific enough to do bus planning.
>
> Thanks,
> Jay
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162351#162351
>
>
Message 13
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|
Additional info re SlickStart:
I had noticed a lot of ringing on the Left magneto P-Lead and am blaming this
on the SlickStart. My engine monitor picks up RPM from the P-Lead. When connected
to the Left mag, once in a while I got strange RPM values. This was immediately
fixed when I moved the pickup to the right mag.
This is not a reason to be cautious of the SlickStart as I believe the SlickStart
and breaker retard mag is a great combination at a good price.
Bill
Roger Standley <taildragon@msn.com> wrote: Hi Ron,
Ive been working this subject, also, and have gathered and crunched data from
a number of sources to find what we need. The best data came from OC Baker
on the AeroElectric-List. The Slick Service Letter SL2-96 that comes with the
SlickStart mostly addresses replacement of existing ignition vibrators, not a
fresh new installation. One of the concerns not clearly addressed in SL2-96 is
how to ground out the right mag out while cranking the engine to ensure that
the right mag does not fire at twenty some degrees before top dead center (TDC)
and create a kick back. Apparently, the grounding out can be accomplished either
by the way the starting switch wiring is connected or by the way the SkickStart
is connected to accomplish the needed grounding.
Lets set the stage: I am using the keyed start switch, IO-540D4A5, SlickStart
(SS1001), electrical and FWF kits, all from Vans. The IO-540 came with a retard
breaker Slick mag on the left and a non retard breaker Slick mag on the right.
The retard terminal is labeled on the left mag. No impulse coupler is on either
mag.
Per SL2-96, SlickStart Pin VIN is the electrical supply into the unit and is
connected to the output side of the starter solenoid through a 5 amp fuse to this
pin. Then whenever you are feeding electricity to the starter you are also
feeding the SlickStart. SlickStart Pin GND is connected to the grounding screw
on the left mag (retard breaker magneto). SlickStart Pin 1 is connected to
the P-lead terminal of the left mag. Pin 3 is connected to the left mag retard
breaker terminal. According to OC Baker, the function of Pin 3 is to tell Pin
1 to fire only when the retard breaker points are open which will be near top
dead center. This provides the retarded spark which is desired while the engine
is cranking. So far, so good.
Now is where SL2-96 and Page OP37-13 of Vans RV-10 Wiring Harness Manual become
a little unclear. One of the configurations in SL2-96 says
SlickStart Pin 2 gets connected to the P-lead of the right mag (non-retard breaker
magneto). OC Baker says that the purpose of Pin 2 is to ground out the right
magneto so that it can not fire an advanced (twenty some degrees before TDC)
spark while the engine is cranking. The diagram on Vans Page OP37-13 implies
there should be a jumper between the R terminal and GND terminal of the keyed
start switch. And that this jumper causes the right mag to be grounded only
while the keyed start switch is in the start position This seems to be redundant
with SlickStart Pin 2 but it also seems that doing both would not be harmful.
I need some help here
Well, that is what I have so far. I kick this out to the List for helpful review/critique/inputs/help/feedback.
Please, no flames!
Roger Standley
N291RV (Reserved)
----- Original Message -----
From: McGANN, Ron
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 3:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Slick Mags
Anybody have any technical data for the Slick mags included with 540 supplied
by Vans? I am installing a Slick Start and the lack of data on the mags is a
PITA.
TIA
Ron
187
"Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential
to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient,
any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly
prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately.
VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments
are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email
is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to your
computer."
http://ww============================================================================================f="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c=============================================
Message 14
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|
Thanks Roger, this is excellent input!
I have a Push button start and have wired the start circuitry such that
the start button will only energise the starter/Slick start when the
Right Mag is grounded. I also have a retard breaker on the left mag
only. No impulse couplers on either mag. Funny, I thought an impulse
coupler on the left mag was standard.
Seems my install will be quite straightforward.
thanks again
Ron
187
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger
Standley
Sent: Tuesday, 5 February 2008 3:43 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Slick Mags
Hi Ron,
I've been working this subject, also, and have gathered and
crunched data from a number of sources to find what we need. The best
data came from OC Baker on the AeroElectric-List. The Slick Service
Letter SL2-96 that comes with the SlickStart mostly addresses
replacement of existing ignition vibrators, not a fresh new
installation. One of the concerns not clearly addressed in SL2-96 is how
to ground out the right mag out while cranking the engine to ensure that
the right mag does not fire at twenty some degrees before top dead
center (TDC) and create a kick back. Apparently, the grounding out can
be accomplished either by the way the starting switch wiring is
connected or by the way the SkickStart is connected to accomplish the
needed grounding.
Lets set the stage: I am using the keyed start switch,
IO-540D4A5, SlickStart (SS1001), electrical and FWF kits, all from
Van's. The IO-540 came with a retard breaker Slick mag on the left and a
non retard breaker Slick mag on the right. The retard terminal is
labeled on the left mag. No impulse coupler is on either mag.
Per SL2-96, SlickStart Pin VIN is the electrical supply into the
unit and is connected to the output side of the starter solenoid through
a 5 amp fuse to this pin. Then whenever you are feeding electricity to
the starter you are also feeding the SlickStart. SlickStart Pin GND is
connected to the grounding screw on the left mag (retard breaker
magneto). SlickStart Pin 1 is connected to the P-lead terminal of the
left mag. Pin 3 is connected to the left mag retard breaker terminal.
According to OC Baker, the function of Pin 3 is to tell Pin 1 to fire
only when the retard breaker points are open which will be near top dead
center. This provides the retarded spark which is desired while the
engine is cranking. So far, so good.
Now is where SL2-96 and Page OP37-13 of Van's RV-10 Wiring
Harness Manual become a little unclear. One of the configurations in
SL2-96 says
SlickStart Pin 2 gets connected to the P-lead of the right mag
(non-retard breaker magneto). OC Baker says that the purpose of Pin 2 is
to ground out the right magneto so that it can not fire an advanced
(twenty some degrees before TDC) spark while the engine is cranking. The
diagram on Van's Page OP37-13 implies there should be a jumper between
the R terminal and GND terminal of the keyed start switch. And that this
jumper causes the right mag to be grounded only while the keyed start
switch is in the "start" position This seems to be redundant with
SlickStart Pin 2 but it also seems that doing both would not be harmful.
I need some help here
Well, that is what I have so far. I kick this out to the List
for helpful review/critique/inputs/help/feedback. Please, no flames!
Roger Standley
N291RV (Reserved)
----- Original Message -----
From: McGANN, Ron <mailto:ron.mcgann@baesystems.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 3:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Slick Mags
Anybody have any technical data for the Slick mags
included with 540 supplied by Vans? I am installing a Slick Start and
the lack of data on the mags is a PITA.
TIA
Ron
187
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached
files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not
the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email
or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have
received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every
care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus
free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email
is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to
ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in
this email to
your computer."
http://ww======================
===============
====f="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">h
ttp://www.matronics.com/c================
===
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
Message 15
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Hi John,
LHS Model 6393 (with retard breaker)
RHS Model 6350
cheers
Ron
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Monday, 4 February 2008 4:08 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Slick Mags
Which model do you want information on?
John Cox
600
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 3:10 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Slick Mags
Anybody have any technical data for the Slick mags included with
540 supplied by Vans? I am installing a Slick Start and the lack of
data on the mags is a PITA.
TIA
Ron
187
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files
is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the
intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this
email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has
been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not
the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure
virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this
email to
your computer."
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
Message 16
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| Subject: | Corrosion Treatment Primer Suggestions |
Chuck, don't listen to a word these poor, misguided "builders" are saying!
Heck, they are so full of the perverbial "bull" that it's hard to walk
through their hangers without, well, you know, getting a little stinky. Let
me set you right.
On the subject of priming, all you have to do is listen to me and you'll be
all set. First you get yourself one of them big windex refill bottles,
which you can get at any store, as long as it's blue, the liquid, not the
bottle. Empty half of it, pour in half a bottle of 409 and mix well. Add a
couple tablespoons of lye. Best stand back a little. Then empty that into
a half gallon container. Add a bottle of liquid wax, any brand will do.
Top off with some denurtured alcohol. Shake. Then get yourself a nice
spray gun and, after scratching off all the aluminum coating with some hand
soap with pumice in it, spray it on! Last forever. Not much weight,
either. Oh, and don't forget to rinse after using the soap before spraying.
I'm very satisfied with this approach and can tell you without hesitation
that it works for me.
John J
40328
do not archive, please
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Henry
Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 8:08 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Corrosion Treatment Primer Suggestions
I have been working on the tail kit with great excitement. I did see the
first of the parts get clecoed together which brought about my question.
Section 5A of our builder's manual has several suggestions for priming the
inside parts of the aircraft structures. When I looked through the archives
I found little in the way of recommendations. Is there a primer system that
is better suited than the others that the group has some agreement on based
upon ease of preparation and application, better protection and costs?
Thanks,
Chuck Henry
#40806 - Vertical Stabilizer
Message 17
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Slick MagsYes, Ron, I expected an impulse coupler on the left mag, too
When I discovered no impulse coupler, I ordered the SlickStart. I st
ill don't know if having redundant right mag grounds is OK. I am leani
ng toward just using the jumper on the ignition switch and leaving Sli
ckStart Pin 2 disconnected. Maybe someone else will chime in here and
set us straight.=0A=0ARoger=0A ----- Original Message -----
=0A From: McGANN, Ron<mailto:ron.mcgann@baesystems.com> =0A To
: rv10-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com> =0A Sent
: Monday, February 04, 2008 1:29 PM=0A Subject: RE: RV10-List: Sli
ck Mags=0A=0A=0A Thanks Roger, this is excellent input!
=0A=0A I have a Push button start and have wired the start circuit
ry such that the start button will only energise the starter/Slick sta
rt when the Right Mag is grounded. I also have a retard breaker on th
e left mag only. No impulse couplers on either mag. Funny, I thought
an impulse coupler on the left mag was standard.=0A=0A Seems m
y install will be quite straightforward.=0A=0A thanks again
=0A Ron =0A 187=0A=0A=0A=0A--------------------------
--------------------------------------------------=0A From: owne
r-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matron
ics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Standley=0A Sent: Tuesday, 5 Februar
y 2008 3:43 AM=0A To: rv10-list@matronics.com=0A Subject:
Re: RV10-List: Slick Mags=0A=0A=0A Hi Ron,=0A=0A
I've been working this subject, also, and have gathered and crunched d
ata from a number of sources to find what we need. The best data came
from OC Baker on the AeroElectric-List. The Slick Service Letter SL2-9
6 that comes with the SlickStart mostly addresses replacement of exist
ing ignition vibrators, not a fresh new installation. One of the conce
rns not clearly addressed in SL2-96 is how to ground out the right mag
out while cranking the engine to ensure that the right mag does not f
ire at twenty some degrees before top dead center (TDC) and create a k
ick back. Apparently, the grounding out can be accomplished either by
the way the starting switch wiring is connected or by the way the Skic
kStart is connected to accomplish the needed grounding. =0A=0A
=0A=0A Lets set the stage: I am using the keyed start swi
tch, IO-540D4A5, SlickStart (SS1001), electrical and FWF kits, all fro
m Van's. The IO-540 came with a retard breaker Slick mag on the left a
nd a non retard breaker Slick mag on the right. The retard terminal is
labeled on the left mag. No impulse coupler is on either mag.=0A
=0A =0A=0A Per SL2-96, SlickStart Pin VIN is the elect
rical supply into the unit and is connected to the output side of the
starter solenoid through a 5 amp fuse to this pin. Then whenever you a
re feeding electricity to the starter you are also feeding the SlickSt
art. SlickStart Pin GND is connected to the grounding screw on the lef
t mag (retard breaker magneto). SlickStart Pin 1 is connected to the
P-lead terminal of the left mag. Pin 3 is connected to the left mag re
tard breaker terminal. According to OC Baker, the function of Pin 3 i
s to tell Pin 1 to fire only when the retard breaker points are open w
hich will be near top dead center. This provides the retarded spark wh
ich is desired while the engine is cranking. So far, so good. =0A
=0A =0A=0A Now is where SL2-96 and Page OP37-13 of Van
's RV-10 Wiring Harness Manual become a little unclear. One of the con
figurations in SL2-96 says=0A=0A SlickStart Pin 2 gets connec
ted to the P-lead of the right mag (non-retard breaker magneto). OC Ba
ker says that the purpose of Pin 2 is to ground out the right magneto
so that it can not fire an advanced (twenty some degrees before TDC) s
park while the engine is cranking. The diagram on Van's Page OP37-13 i
mplies there should be a jumper between the R terminal and GND termina
l of the keyed start switch. And that this jumper causes the right mag
to be grounded only while the keyed start switch is in the "start" po
sition This seems to be redundant with SlickStart Pin 2 but it also se
ems that doing both would not be harmful. I need some help here=0A
=0A =0A=0A Well, that is what I have so far. I kick th
is out to the List for helpful review/critique/inputs/help/feedback. P
lease, no flames!=0A=0A=0A=0A Roger Standley=0A
=0A N291RV (Reserved)=0A=0A ----- Original Message -----
=0A From: McGANN, Ron<mailto:ron.mcgann@baesystems.com>
=0A To: rv10-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
=0A Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 3:09 PM=0A Subject
: RV10-List: Slick Mags=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A Anybody hav
e any technical data for the Slick mags included with 540 supplied by
Vans? I am installing a Slick Start and the lack of data on the mags
is a PITA. =0A=0A TIA =0A Ron =0A 187
=0A=0A"Warning:=0AThe information contained in this email and an
y attached files is=0Aconfidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you
are not the intended=0Arecipient, any use, disclosure or copying o
f this email or any=0Aattachments is expressly prohibited. If you
have received this email=0Ain error, please notify us immediately.
VIRUS: Every care has been=0Ataken to ensure this email and its att
achments are virus free,=0Ahowever, any loss or damage incurred in
using this email is not the=0Asender's responsibility. It is your
responsibility to ensure virus=0Achecks are completed before instal
ling any data sent in this email to=0Ayour computer."=0A=0Aht
tp://ww=================f="http://
www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c====
=================0A=0A=0A
=0Ap://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=0Aics.com=0A.matron
ics.com/contribution=0A=0A"Warning:=0AThe information contain
ed in this email and any attached files is=0Aconfidential to BAE Sy
stems Australia. If you are not the intended=0Arecipient, any use,
disclosure or copying of this email or any=0Aattachments is express
ly prohibited. If you have received this email=0Ain error, please
notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been=0Ataken to ensure
this email and its attachments are virus free,=0Ahowever, any loss
or damage incurred in using this email is not the=0Asender's respo
nsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus=0Achecks are
completed before installing any data sent in this email to=0Ayour c
=======================
=======================
=======================
=======================
=======================
======================0A_
=======================
=======================
==========0A=0A
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Corrosion Treatment Primer Suggestions |
OH MY GOSH! Chuck, you should really see this guy's work. Let's just say,
"I have" and I'll leave it at that. I've never heard of such a technique
before, and, as a Matronics reader since 2003, and an occasional contributo
r
(since I started building) since 2005, I can personally vouch for John and
every word he says. Especially the part about the stinky bull. What I
can't believe is that he spaced on one of the ingredients: Once you're don
e
with the batch, add 1 part per hundred Gorilla Glue. This readily dissolve
s
in the mixture as long as it's above 60 F and adds the extra touch of
adherence we're all looking for.
Good luck
Bruce Breckenridge
40018 Wings
Please, by all means, DO NOT ARCHIVE - it's Monday!
On Mon, Feb 4, 2008 at 1:34 PM, John Jessen <n212pj@gmail.com> wrote:
> Chuck, don't listen to a word these poor, misguided "builders" are
> saying! Heck, they are so full of the perverbial "bull" that it's hard t
o
> walk through their hangers without, well, you know, getting a little
> stinky. Let me set you right.
>
> On the subject of priming, all you have to do is listen to me and you'll
> be all set. First you get yourself one of them big windex refill bottles
,
> which you can get at any store, as long as it's blue, the liquid, not the
> bottle. Empty half of it, pour in half a bottle of 409 and mix well. Ad
d a
> couple tablespoons of lye. Best stand back a little. Then empty that in
to
> a half gallon container. Add a bottle of liquid wax, any brand will do.
> Top off with some denurtured alcohol. Shake. Then get yourself a nice
> spray gun and, after scratching off all the aluminum coating with some ha
nd
> soap with pumice in it, spray it on! Last forever. Not much weight,
> either. Oh, and don't forget to rinse after using the soap before
> spraying.
>
> I'm very satisfied with this approach and can tell you without hesitation
> that it works for me.
>
> John J
> 40328
>
> do not archive, please
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Chuck Henry
> *Sent:* Friday, February 01, 2008 8:08 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Corrosion Treatment Primer Suggestions
>
> I have been working on the tail kit with great excitement. I did see th
e
> first of the parts get clecoed together which brought about my question.
> Section 5A of our builder's manual has several suggestions for priming th
e
> inside parts of the aircraft structures. When I looked through the archi
ves
> I found little in the way of recommendations. Is there a primer system t
hat
> is better suited than the others that the group has some agreement on bas
ed
> upon ease of preparation and application, better protection and costs?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chuck Henry
>
> #40806 ' Vertical Stabilizer
>
>
> *href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matroni
cs.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
*
>
===========
ronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
===========
===========
com/contribution
===========
> *
>
>
Message 19
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Does anybody know if the G900X will fit in the standard size Van's -10
panel. What is the vertical size needed for the G900X screens?
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
Message 20
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Jessie,
We had some debate on making the panel 1" taller but I
THINK we ended up with the standard height panel (big help). Photo on
bottom of page:
http://www.painttheweb.com/rv-10/avionics.htm
Maybe you can eyeball it by looking at the lower left &
right cutout "ears" on the bottom of the panel.
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 2:11 PM
Subject: RV10-List: G900X Size
Does anybody know if the G900X will fit in the standard size Van's -10
panel. What is the vertical size needed for the G900X screens?
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
Message 21
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Hi Jesse,
It will indeed. The easiest way to look at the 900X screens is to take a
sheet of plain ole' office paper (8.5" x 11") and that's about the exact
size of the Garmin Screens. Drop me a line off list if you need more
detailed info.
Cheers,
Stein
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 4:11 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: G900X Size
Does anybody know if the G900X will fit in the standard size Van's -10
panel. What is the vertical size needed for the G900X screens?
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
Message 22
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As I mentioned last week. Stein has done three. See Robin Marks, Team
RV and Dr. Peeler who is yet to surface here. Pacific Coast is looking
to do a fourth. These are all dual G900's with the dual Garmin 530A, 16
watts per output. Columbia (Cessna) drove the decision to do a remote
FMS unit which Team RV is showing at http://steinair.com/panels.htm.
Stein has your dimensions.
John
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 2:11 PM
Subject: RV10-List: G900X Size
Does anybody know if the G900X will fit in the standard size Van's -10
panel. What is the vertical size needed for the G900X screens?
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
Message 23
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In the interest of fair reporting we didn't/aren't doing Robins panel, John
Stark did/is. That being said, Robin's panel is indeed a wee bit taller
and in fact isn't the standard Van's panel. I helped John out on this CAD
for this panel, and in order to get the Sorcerer above the G900X's and still
use the same type of lower switch strip both the upper and lower panels had
to be extended slightly. I don't know what the final measurements for
Robin's panel were (we didn't do it), but both the upper and lower pieces
have been enlarged. You'd have to ask John, but I'm pretty sure this panel
is in fact a bit larger than Van's standard. The standard Van's panel is
only 11.96" top to bottm, and then you remove the area of nutplates and
there is even less space to work with. The 900X's will fit in the upper
piece standard panel, just not with the Sorcerer above it. Also, in order
to get 2 rows of breakers in the lower strip it also has to be enlarged as
it's only about 1.49" from top to bottom. You need at least (or close to)
2.5" on that switch strip to get 2 rows of breakers in there. An easy
giveaway in the pics is the AML rocker switches which themselves are 1.2"
tall and if the lower strip were the same as original there would be less
than .2" above and below, where in Robin's panel there is at least .5"-.75"
above and below.
Anyway, it an be done with Van's panel...just not easily. I haven't seen
anyone use the original panel on the 900X's among the people I know building
them (I think we're on G900X RV-10 Panel #6 or 7 right now and we've not
used the original panel once). We don't always post all pics of all panels
we do on the web, because some people just don't want others to see their N
Number, name or panel on the net. Some of the guys getting 900X's I doubt
we'll hear from on any list or forum....they are just offline type of
people. I know that Avionics Systems as well as Aerotronics also each have
RV-10 G900X builds in progress as well. It's a small community with these
900X's and we were all down at Garmin a few weeks ago for 900X training
again. We get to know each other quite well, and also help each other out
quite a bit working with these things.
I think they are perhaps more popular then many people would realize,
because a lot of the 900X customers aren't actively involved in this or the
VAF community.
Have a great week and happy building,
Cheers,
Stein
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 5:00 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: G900X Size
As I mentioned last week. Stein has done three. See Robin Marks, Team RV
and Dr. Peeler who is yet to surface here. Pacific Coast is looking to do a
fourth. These are all dual G900s with the dual Garmin 530A, 16 watts per
output. Columbia (Cessna) drove the decision to do a remote FMS unit which
Team RV is showing at http://steinair.com/panels.htm.
Stein has your dimensions.
John
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 2:11 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: G900X Size
Does anybody know if the G900X will fit in the standard size Van's -10
panel. What is the vertical size needed for the G900X screens?
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comhtt
p://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 24
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I have the same setup in N939SB and ran the grounding wire from the SlickStart
to the right Mag P-lead and also grounded the right Mag P-lead during start switch
activation. Since a backfire could be very expensive and the cost of running
both wires is zero, I believed this was cheap insurance against a broken wire.
No issues at 160 hours.
Bill
Roger Standley <taildragon@msn.com> wrote:
Yes, Ron, I expected an impulse coupler on the left mag, too. When
I discovered no impulse coupler, I ordered the SlickStart. I still don't know
if having redundant right mag grounds is OK. I am leaning toward just using the
jumper on the ignition switch and leaving SlickStart Pin 2 disconnected. Maybe
someone else will chime in here and set us straight.
Roger
----- Original Message -----
From: McGANN, Ron
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 1:29 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Slick Mags
Thanks Roger, this is excellent input!
I have a Push button start and have wired the start circuitry such that the start
button will only energise the starter/Slick start when the Right Mag is grounded.
I also have a retard breaker on the left mag only. No impulse couplers
on either mag. Funny, I thought an impulse coupler on the left mag was standard.
Seems my install will be quite straightforward.
thanks again
Ron
187
---------------------------------
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Standley
Sent: Tuesday, 5 February 2008 3:43 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Slick Mags
Hi Ron,
I've been working this subject, also, and have gathered and crunched data from
a number of sources to find what we need. The best data came from OC Baker
on the AeroElectric-List. The Slick Service Letter SL2-96 that comes with the
SlickStart mostly addresses replacement of existing ignition vibrators, not a
fresh new installation One of the concerns not clearly addressed in SL2-96 is
how to ground out the right mag out while cranking the engine to ensure that
the right mag does not fire at twenty some degrees before top dead center (TDC)
and create a kick back. Apparently, the grounding out can be accomplished either
by the way the starting switch wiring is connected or by the way the SkickStart
is connected to accomplish the needed grounding.
Lets set the stage: I am using the keyed start switch, IO-540D4A5, SlickStart
(SS1001), electrical and FWF kits, all from Van's. The IO-540 came with a retard
breaker Slick mag on the left and a non retard breaker Slick mag on the right.
The retard terminal is labeled on the left mag. No impulse coupler is on
either mag.
Per SL2-96, SlickStart Pin VIN is the electrical supply into the unit and is
connected to the output side of the starter solenoid through a 5 amp fuse to this
pin. Then whenever you are feeding electricity to the starter you are also
feeding the SlickStart. SlickStart Pin GND is connected to the grounding screw
on the left mag (retard breaker magneto). SlickStart Pin 1 is connected to
the P-lead terminal of the left mag. Pin 3 is connected to the left mag retard
breaker terminal. According to OC Baker, the function of Pin 3 is to tell Pin
1 to fire only when the retard breaker points are open which will be near top
dead center. This provides the retarded spark which is desired while the engine
is cranking. So far, so good.
Now is where SL2-96 and Page OP37-13 of Van's RV-10 Wiring Harness Manual become
a little unclear. One of the configurations in SL2-96 says
SlickStart Pin 2 gets connected to the P-lead of the right mag (non-retard breaker
magneto). OC Baker says that the purpose of Pin 2 is to ground out the right
magneto so that it can not fire an advanced (twenty some degrees before TDC)
spark while the engine is cranking. The diagram on Van's Page OP37-13 implies
there should be a jumper between the R terminal and GND terminal of the keyed
start switch. And that this jumper causes the right mag to be grounded only
while the keyed start switch is in the "start" position This seems to be redundant
with SlickStart Pin 2 but it also seems that doing both would not be harmful.
I need some help here
Well, that is what I have so far. I kick this out to the List for helpful review/critique/inputs/help/feedback.
Please, no flames!
Roger Standley
N291RV (Reserved)
----- Original Message -----
From: McGANN, Ron
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 3:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Slick Mags
Anybody have any technical data for the Slick mags included with 540 supplied
by Vans? I am installing a Slick Start and the lack of data on the mags is a
PITA.
TIA
Ron
187
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| Subject: | Re: Corrosion Treatment Primer Suggestions |
If that mixture is a bit thick to spray, just add a quort of acetone and a
quart of MEK...then it will be thin and stinky and seep into all the seams
for best penetration.
Did someone mix up 4/1/08 with 2/4/08, or just practicing?
Definitely
DO NOT ARCHIVE
On Feb 4, 2008 3:08 PM, bruce breckenridge <bbreckenridge@gmail.com> wrote:
> OH MY GOSH! Chuck, you should really see this guy's work. Let's just
> say, "I have" and I'll leave it at that. I've never heard of such a
> technique before, and, as a Matronics reader since 2003, and an occasional
> contributor (since I started building) since 2005, I can personally vouch
> for John and every word he says. Especially the part about the stinky bull.
> What I can't believe is that he spaced on one of the ingredients: Once
> you're done with the batch, add 1 part per hundred Gorilla Glue. This
> readily dissolves in the mixture as long as it's above 60 F and adds the
> extra touch of adherence we're all looking for.
> Good luck
>
> Bruce Breckenridge
> 40018 Wings
>
> Please, by all means, DO NOT ARCHIVE - it's Monday!
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Corrosion Treatment Primer Suggestions |
I'm will Jesse and am using alodine covered with Akzo Nobel epoxy.
Mike
Do not archive
Mike Doble
Builder 40691
STILL Working on my tail.....
Waukesha, Wisconsin
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 10:38 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Corrosion Treatment Primer Suggestions
Primer war coming right up. I can't imagine there isn't much in the
archives, because there have been so many posts regarding primers in the
past. Now people shy away from primer e-mails like the plague.
In short, there is no agreement as a group as to whether or not to prime,
whether or not to alodine, and what primer to use if you are going to prime.
I have used several primers and am happiest with the Akzo Nobel apoxy primer
that Spruce sells. It is tough as nails when it cures. A lot of people are
quite happy with rattle cans of self-etching primer they get at Sherwin
Williams or your local Auto Parts store. Others won't prime because the
aluminum has the alclad surface. It's all up to you.
The Akzo Nobel stuff is probably one of the more complicated to apply, since
it requires mixing and a spray gun, whereas the rattle can you just shake
and apply. With primer that you have to mix, you will want to prepare as
many parts as you can and then prime them at once, making sure that you mark
them well so as not to confuse which part goes where.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Feb 1, 2008, at 11:07 AM, Chuck Henry wrote:
I have been working on the tail kit with great excitement. I did see the
first of the parts get clecoed together which brought about my question.
Section 5A of our builder's manual has several suggestions for priming the
inside parts of the aircraft structures. When I looked through the archives
I found little in the way of recommendations. Is there a primer system that
is better suited than the others that the group has some agreement on based
upon ease of preparation and application, better protection and costs?
Thanks,
Chuck Henry
#40806 - Vertical Stabilizer
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
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Message 27
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Bill,
The new Slick-Start doesn't have a pin 2.
Joe
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill DeRouchey
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 1:18 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Slick Mags
Ron-
You have done your homework. This is exactly the setup I am using with
both the Slickstart and the switch grounding the right mag. Only reason
for the double grounding is a backfire can be very expensive and the
cost is zero to add protection for a broken wire.
Bill
N939SB
Roger Standley <taildragon@msn.com> wrote:
Hi Ron,
I've been working this subject, also, and have gathered and crunched
data from a number of sources to find what we need. The best data came
from OC Baker on the AeroElectric-List. The Slick Service Letter SL2-96
that comes with the SlickStart mostly addresses replacement of existing
ignition vibrators, not a fresh new installation. One of the concerns
not clearly addressed in SL2-96 is how to ground out the right mag out
while cranking the engine to ensure that the right mag does not fire at
twenty some degrees before top dead center (TDC) and create a kick back.
Apparently, the grounding out can be accomplished either by the way the
starting switch wiring is connected or by the way the SkickStart is
connected to accomplish the needed grounding.
Lets set the stage: I am using the keyed start switch, IO-540D4A5,
SlickStart (SS1001), electrical and FWF kits, all from Van's. The IO-540
came with a retard breaker Slick mag on the left and a non retard
breaker Slick mag on the right. The retard terminal is labeled on the
left mag. No impulse coupler is on either mag.
Per SL2-96, SlickStart Pin VIN is the electrical supply into the
unit and is connected to the output side of the starter solenoid through
a 5 amp fuse to this pin. Then whenever you are feeding electricity to
the starter you are also feeding the SlickStart. SlickStart Pin GND is
connected to the grounding screw on the left mag (retard breaker
magneto). SlickStart Pin 1 is connected to the P-lead terminal of the
left mag. Pin 3 is connected to the left mag retard breaker terminal.
According to OC Baker, the function of Pin 3 is to tell Pin 1 to fire
only when the retard breaker points are open which will be near top dead
center. This provides the retarded spark which is desired while the
engine is cranking. So far, so good.
Now is where SL2-96 and Page OP37-13 of Van's RV-10 Wiring Harness
Manual become a little unclear. One of the configurations in SL2-96 says
SlickStart Pin 2 gets connected to the P-lead of the right mag
(non-retard breaker magneto). OC Baker says that the purpose of Pin 2 is
to ground out the right magneto so that it can not fire an advanced
(twenty some degrees before TDC) spark while the engine is cranking. The
diagram on Van's Page OP37-13 implies there should be a jumper between
the R terminal and GND terminal of the keyed start switch. And that this
jumper causes the right mag to be grounded only while the keyed start
switch is in the "start" position This seems to be redundant with
SlickStart Pin 2 but it also seems that doing both would not be harmful.
I need some help here
Well, that is what I have so far. I kick this out to the List for
helpful review/critique/inputs/help/feedback. Please, no flames!
Roger Standley
N291RV (Reserved)
----- Original Message -----
From: McGANN, Ron
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 3:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Slick Mags
Anybody have any technical data for the Slick mags included with
540 supplied by Vans? I am installing a Slick Start and the lack of
data on the mags is a PITA.
TIA
Ron
187
"Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached
files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the
intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
Message 28
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Joe-
I can't think of a design reason to drop pin 2 functionality except to limit
their liability in lawsuits. I suppose that every kick-back lawsuit will automatically
name Unison as a defendant and they can create uncertainity by blaming
the right mag.
I looked for information on the new version with no joy.
Does anyone have a description of the changes between new/old?
Is the new version now being shipped?
Can anyone send a new wiring diagram?
Thanks,
Bill
mckervey <mckervey@edge.net> wrote:
Bill,
The new Slick-Start doesn't have a pin 2.
Joe
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill DeRouchey
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 1:18 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Slick Mags
Ron-
You have done your homework. This is exactly the setup I am using with both the
Slickstart and the switch grounding the right mag. Only reason for the double
grounding is a backfire can be very expensive and the cost is zero to add protection
for a broken wire.
Bill
N939SB
Roger Standley <taildragon@msn.com> wrote:
Hi Ron,
Ive been working this subject, also, and have gathered and crunched data from
a number of sources to find what we need. The best data came from OC Baker
on the AeroElectric-List. The Slick Service Letter SL2-96 that comes with the
SlickStart mostly addresses replacement of existing ignition vibrators, not a
fresh new installation. One of the concerns not clearly addressed in SL2-96 is
how to ground out the right mag out while cranking the engine to ensure that
the right mag does not fire at twenty some degrees before top dead center (TDC)
and create a kick back. Apparently, the grounding out can be accomplished either
by the way the starting switch wiring is connected or by the way the SkickStart
is connected to accomplish the needed grounding.
Lets set the stage: I am using the keyed start switch, IO-540D4A5, SlickStart
(SS1001), electrical and FWF kits, all from Vans. The IO-540 came with a retard
breaker Slick mag on the left and a non retard breaker Slick mag on the right.
The retard terminal is labeled on the left mag. No impulse coupler is on either
mag.
Per SL2-96, SlickStart Pin VIN is the electrical supply into the unit and is
connected to the output side of the starter solenoid through a 5 amp fuse to this
pin. Then whenever you are feeding electricity to the starter you are also
feeding the SlickStart. SlickStart Pin GND is connected to the grounding screw
on the left mag (retard breaker magneto). SlickStart Pin 1 is connected to
the P-lead terminal of the left mag. Pin 3 is connected to the left mag retard
breaker terminal. According to OC Baker, the function of Pin 3 is to tell Pin
1 to fire only when the retard breaker points are open which will be near top
dead center. This provides the retarded spark which is desired while the engine
is cranking. So far, so good.
Now is where SL2-96 and Page OP37-13 of Vans RV-10 Wiring Harness Manual become
a little unclear. One of the configurations in SL2-96 says
SlickStart Pin 2 gets connected to the P-lead of the right mag (non-retard breaker
magneto). OC Baker says that the purpose of Pin 2 is to ground out the right
magneto so that it can not fire an advanced (twenty some degrees before TDC)
spark while the engine is cranking. The diagram on Vans Page OP37-13 implies
there should be a jumper between the R terminal and GND terminal of the keyed
start switch. And that this jumper causes the right mag to be grounded only
while the keyed start switch is in the start position This seems to be redundant
with SlickStart Pin 2 but it also seems that doing both would not be harmful.
I need some help here
Well, that is what I have so far. I kick this out to the List for helpful review/critique/inputs/help/feedback.
Please, no flames!
Roger Standley
N291RV (Reserved)
----- Original Message -----
From: McGANN, Ron
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2008 3:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Slick Mags
Anybody have any technical data for the Slick mags included with 540 supplied
by Vans? I am installing a Slick Start and the lack of data on the mags is a
PITA.
TIA
Ron
187
"Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential
to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient,
any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly
prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately.
VIRUS: Every care has been
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