Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:01 AM - Trimming the EGT / CHT sensor cables for AF3500 (Michael Wellenzohn)
2. 04:23 AM - Re: Trimming the EGT / CHT sensor cables for AF3500 (Bob-tcw)
3. 04:53 AM - Re: Computer fan under glare shield (jim@CombsFive.Com)
4. 05:09 AM - Re: Re: Rudder/aileron Gust Lock (Jesse Saint)
5. 09:05 AM - Re: Trimming the EGT / CHT sensor cables for AF3500 (Jim Berry)
6. 12:41 PM - Re: Henderson Airport (Roger Standley)
7. 02:56 PM - Re: Door glass/windows (Don McDonald)
8. 03:11 PM - Re: Door glass/windows (Geoff Combs)
9. 03:14 PM - Re: seat belt counter sink? (Eric_Kallio)
10. 04:36 PM - Re: Henderson Airport (Rene Felker)
11. 05:12 PM - Re: seat belt counter sink? (Ron B.)
12. 06:09 PM - External Power Receptacle in a 10 (johngoodman)
13. 06:46 PM - Re: External Power Receptacle in a 10 (Chuck Weyant)
14. 07:08 PM - Re: stec 55x auto pilot (Chris and Susie)
15. 08:03 PM - Re: Henderson Airport (swrpilot@bellsouth.net)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Trimming the EGT / CHT sensor cables for AF3500 |
I can't find the thread that dealt with this topic. Is it ok to trim the CHT /EGT
cables that connect to the Thermocouple-sensors?
Thanks
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (avionics, wiring)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247261#247261
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Trimming the EGT / CHT sensor cables for AF3500 |
I don't know about any previous thread, but, I've been working with
thermocouples in the lab for almost 25 yrs now and we routinely make up our
own cables to any length necessary. The signals are dc and effectively
zero current so cable length has no effect on accuracy. The one thing
that does effect accuracy is the material used in any connector utilized in
the path. Each of the conductors in the cable is a different type of
metal, the ideal connection (in terms of accuracy) would be the same type of
metal as the conductor. However, your are not going to find standard
connectors made from iron or constantan, so we try to minimize the number of
connections to the absolute minimum.
If want to learn more about thermocouples and the connectors that are
available. www.omega.com
Bob Newman
40176
www.tcwtech.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
Sent: Monday, June 08, 2009 3:59 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Trimming the EGT / CHT sensor cables for AF3500
> <rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
>
> I can't find the thread that dealt with this topic. Is it ok to trim the
> CHT /EGT cables that connect to the Thermocouple-sensors?
>
> Thanks
> Mike
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (avionics, wiring)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247261#247261
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Computer fan under glare shield |
The yellow wire is a speed sensor from the fan. Computer system can
detect if it is turning or not. You don't need it for your
application.
Black - Ground, Red - +12V
Jim C
N312F - AFS EFIS and AFS Autopilot - Sweet!
Do Not Archive
--------------------
After the AZ sun heats up my glare
shield, my Dynon EFIS sometimes
indicates
it's overheated.
I bought a thin computer fan to install figuring it would be both
a
defrost
fan as well as remove
heat from under the
shield. It's 12 V and has 3 wires attached: red,
black,
and
yellow. Are any
of you computer knowledgeable enough to tell me
which wire does what. I
want
to hook it up to
an
on-off switch to 12 V.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder/aileron Gust Lock |
Of course not, but it would be too bad to have the plane rolling down
the hill while you get out to put the chock under it, or while you are
fueling your plane on a non-level ramp.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Jun 7, 2009, at 9:51 PM, David McNeill wrote:
>
> I doubt seriously that one should use this as a substitute for
> chocks or a
> real parking brake in the aircraft. Leaving a $100k + aircraft on an
> incline
> with a tow bar pushed against the toe brakes seems a little chancy
> to me.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Maib
> Sent: Sunday, June 07, 2009 6:39 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rudder/aileron Gust Lock
>
>
> Any photo's?
>
> David Maib
> 40559
>
>
> On Jun 7, 2009, at 7:36 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>
>
> One of the best solutions I have seen so far, IMHO, is a welded tube
> on the
> front of each side of the Bogi Bar that will slide into a hole on
> each of
> the pedals. With the arm extended and up against the back of the
> seat, the
> seat belt can be used to hold it in place. Then you can use the other
> seatbelt to hold the stick back (with the first stick inside the
> middle
> triangle of the towbar) which will lock the elevator and ailerons.
> The
> towbar is good to have with you when traveling anyway, so the added
> weight
> is very small. If on a little bit of a slope, it can push against
> the top
> of the pedals as a parking break. If wind is expected, it can be on
> the
> bottom of the pedals as a more secure gust lock.
>
> do not archive
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse@saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> On Jun 7, 2009, at 11:56 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>>
>> That one is spring loaded as well. With a solid lock I think
>> it would work ok.
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>> Jesse Saint wrote:
>>> No offense meant to whoever makes that lock, but attached is a
>>> picture of a -10 that had one of those locks on and had a visit from
>>> some fairly strong wind.
>>> do not archive.
>>> Jesse Saint
>>> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>>> jesse@saintaviation.com <mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com>
>>> Cell: 352-427-0285
>>> Fax: 815-377-3694
>>> On Jun 6, 2009, at 10:18 AM, Rene Felker wrote:
>>>> Here is the gust lock I am using. Seems to work great. Light and
>>>> small.
>>>> http://www.aviationtechproducts.com/html/products_pics.html
>>>> One or two items down the page. It is getting a workout here in
>>>> Reno as I write this.
>>>> Rene' Felker
>>>> RV-10 N423CF Flying
>>>> 801-721-6080
>>>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com <mailto:owner-rv10-
>>>> list-server@matronics.com> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
>>>> server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Don McDonald
>>>> *Sent:* Saturday, June 06, 2009 12:00 AM
>>>> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>>> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Re: Rudder/aileron Gust Lock It's made of
>>>> aluminum tubing.... the feet are dipped in a plastic bath.... and
>>>> to
>>>> use it as an aileron lock all you need is a short piece (6") of
>>>> velcro.... wrap it around the gust lock and the stick. The spring
>>>> loaded pin is there just so it can be stored as a shorter unit.
>>>> You
>>>> can put as many holes as you'd like, or just one that compresses
>>>> the
>>>> spring all the way. Because I needed one quickly, I also made a pvc
>>>> unit. It worked well, but was heavy, bulky, and uglier than sh%&.
>>>> I installed it today and then went to the back of the plane and
>>>> shook the heck out of the rudder just to see if I could shake it
>>>> loose.... no problem, it hung right in there.
>>>> The other advantage is that you will NEVER be able to take off and
>>>> forget to remove it..... no matter how oblivious you may be.
>>>> Don
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --- On *Fri, 6/5/09, lbgjb10 /<lbgjb@gnt.net
>>>> <mailto:lbgjb@gnt.net>>/* wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> From: lbgjb10 <lbgjb@gnt.net <mailto:lbgjb@gnt.net>>
>>>> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rudder/aileron Gust Lock
>>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>>> Date: Friday, June 5, 2009, 6:22 PM
>>>>
>>>> <http://us.mc05g.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=lbgjb@gnt.net>>
>>>>
>>>> also, what's it made of??
>>>>
>>>> --------
>>>> Larry and Gayle N104LG
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>
>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/vie="http://www.matronics.com/
>>>> Navigator?RV10-List"
>>>> sp;--> <http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?
>>>> p=247030#247030>http://f= - List
>>>> Contributionsp; &bsp;--> <http://
>>>> forums.matronics.com/>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> * *
>>>> * *
>>>> **
>>>> **
>>>> **
>>>> **
>>>> **
>>>> **
>>>> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>>>> **
>>>> **
>>>> **
>>>> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>>>> **
>>>> **
>>>> **
>>>> **
>>>> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>>>> **
>>>> * *
>>>> *
>>>>
>>>> style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://
>>>> www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>> blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://forums.matronics.com
>>>> style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://
>>>> www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>>
>>>> *
>>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Trimming the EGT / CHT sensor cables for AF3500 |
Michael,
There is a thread about this on the Advanced Flight site. It is OK to trim the
leads from the AF3500 to the thermocouples, but do not trim the leads that are
a part of the thermocouple itself.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247308#247308
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Henderson Airport |
You have a question about Henderson Airport?
----- Original Message -----
From: swrpilot@bellsouth.net<mailto:swrpilot@bellsouth.net>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 07, 2009 4:37 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Henderson Airport
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Door glass/windows |
I had one window that had the dimensions that you are talking about.... I s
ent it back to Van's and got a replacement.- Next window, no problem.
Don McDonald
--- On Sat, 6/6/09, aerosport1 <g.combs@aerosportmodeling.com> wrote:
From: aerosport1 <g.combs@aerosportmodeling.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Door glass/windows
m>
I am in the process of installing my windows in the doors and the windows a
re- .165 to .1875 thick and do not fit the window channel. They are almos
t .04 to .060 to thick. It seems that these should be the same thickness as
the rear windows which were .120 to .140. Has anyone else had this issue?
If I try to sand down the shelf the window sits on I will sand almost or wi
ll go through the external door skin. At this thickness
there would be no good way to blend these into the outer door skins.
Geoff
--------
Geoff Combs
RV-10 QB N829GW
Finishing
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247108#247108
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
Message 8
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| Subject: | Door glass/windows |
Thanks for everyone's input.
FYI
I did talk to Scott today at Van's and he gave me the specs for the door
windows and mine are way to big. They are sending me some new ones out
tomorrow.
Scott said they should be .120 to .150. That was there specifications.
The
.150 was on the very high side and could be to thick depending on the
door
frame.
Geoff
Geoff Combs
President
Aerosport Modeling & Design
8090 Howe Industrial Parkway
Canal Winchester, Ohio 43110
614-834-5227p
614-834-5230f
www.aerosportmodeling.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: Monday, June 08, 2009 5:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door glass/windows
I had one window that had the dimensions that you are talking about....
I
sent it back to Van's and got a replacement. Next window, no problem.
Don McDonald
--- On Sat, 6/6/09, aerosport1 <g.combs@aerosportmodeling.com> wrote:
From: aerosport1 <g.combs@aerosportmodeling.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Door glass/windows
<g.combs@aerosportmodeling.com
<http://us.mc05g.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=g.combs@aerosportmodeling
.com>
>
I am in the process of installing my windows in the doors and the
windows
are .165 to .1875 thick and do not fit the window channel. They are
almost
.04 to .060 to thick. It seems that these should be the same thickness
as
the rear windows which were .120 to .140. Has anyone else had this
issue? If
I try to sand down the shelf the window sits on I will sand almost or
will
go through the external door skin. At this thickness
there would be no good way to blend these into the outer door skins.
Geoff
--------
Geoff Combs
RV-10 QB N829GW
Finishing
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247108#24710om/Navigator?RV
10-Li
st" <http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247108#247108>
target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator? -
MATRONICS
WEB FORUM; -Matt Dralle, List
Admin=========
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: seat belt counter sink? |
Lew, put me on the list. Sent you a PM.
Eric Kallio
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247359#247359
Message 10
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| Subject: | Henderson Airport |
What do you want to know? I use it when I go to Vegas. I have been to
North LV and McCarran and find HND to be the easiest.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Standley
Sent: Monday, June 08, 2009 1:41 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Henderson Airport
You have a question about Henderson Airport?
----- Original Message -----
From: swrpilot@bellsouth.net
Sent: Sunday, June 07, 2009 4:37 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Henderson Airport
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: seat belt counter sink? |
We purchased our own countersink and are now finished with it. I'm proposing doing
with it in Canada as what you folks are doing here. Not that customs using
the postal service is such a big deal but it's more costly ant time consuming.
Anyone needing a countersink in Canada, let me know, and like the folks here
only ask for it when your ready for it. This way it will be available for more
people.
Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247370#247370
Message 12
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| Subject: | External Power Receptacle in a 10 |
Well, it took a loooonnngg time, but I finally designed, built, and installed an
External Power Receptacle in my RV-10 project. I'm sure somebody will see flaws
in it, but it doesn't budge a hair!
Basically, it's on the belly with a flap door. Piano hinge at the leading edge
and a Camloc at the closing end. A doubler attached to the skin with a hole "just
smaller" than the opening in the receptacle. 3/4" square tube is used as spacers
for another sheet of metal identical to the first, except the hole is cut
so the receptacle can pass through. The AN3-21A bolts basically hold it down
hard on the skin and prevent side motion. The 1/8" 3003 bracket I had made by
a local metal shop - $45. It is bent "just right" to match the angle of the
bolt holes (7 - the floor and the battery box aren't parallel). It's purpose is
to lock it in, and tie it to the battery box so it can't be pushed up (or down).
The bump out is for the B&C contactor.
The wiring will be according to The Aeroelectric Connection, with a few minor mods
suggested by the folks at Vertical Power. The VP200 can sense it powered.
The bottom door hinge is a little tricky, trying to keep it hidden, but it can
be done. Caution, no more than 5 links - the pin will not clear the J-channel
for removal otherwise.
I'm only posting this because I searched high and low for hints and found them
few and far between. Hopefully, more suggestions will be added. Photos attached.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247378#247378
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dscn1475_191.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dscn1473_977.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dscn1469_463.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dscn1468_585.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dscn1470_188.jpg
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: External Power Receptacle in a 10 |
Put mine in the lower left corner of the aft bulkhead just inside the
baggage door. Easy and out of the way. No doors, no weather/seal problems,
no sweat installation, no bending over to plug in.
Chuck
RV10 in the paint shop
RV9A 360 hours of pure joy
--------------------------------------------------
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
Sent: Monday, June 08, 2009 6:08 PM
Subject: RV10-List: External Power Receptacle in a 10
>
> Well, it took a loooonnngg time, but I finally designed, built, and
> installed an External Power Receptacle in my RV-10 project. I'm sure
> somebody will see flaws in it, but it doesn't budge a hair!
> Basically, it's on the belly with a flap door. Piano hinge at the leading
> edge and a Camloc at the closing end. A doubler attached to the skin with
> a hole "just smaller" than the opening in the receptacle. 3/4" square tube
> is used as spacers for another sheet of metal identical to the first,
> except the hole is cut so the receptacle can pass through. The AN3-21A
> bolts basically hold it down hard on the skin and prevent side motion. The
> 1/8" 3003 bracket I had made by a local metal shop - $45. It is bent "just
> right" to match the angle of the bolt holes (7 - the floor and the
> battery box aren't parallel). It's purpose is to lock it in, and tie it to
> the battery box so it can't be pushed up (or down). The bump out is for
> the B&C contactor.
> The wiring will be according to The Aeroelectric Connection, with a few
> minor mods suggested by the folks at Vertical Power. The VP200 can sense
> it powered. The bottom door hinge is a little tricky, trying to keep it
> hidden, but it can be done. Caution, no more than 5 links - the pin will
> not clear the J-channel for removal otherwise.
> I'm only posting this because I searched high and low for hints and found
> them few and far between. Hopefully, more suggestions will be added.
> Photos attached.
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
> N711JG reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=247378#247378
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dscn1475_191.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dscn1473_977.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dscn1469_463.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dscn1468_585.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dscn1470_188.jpg
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: stec 55x auto pilot |
Thanks Kelly decided not to go ahead. We are coming to the states in
November so will pick something up then and save freight.
chris
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Kelly McMullen
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, June 05, 2009 3:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: stec 55x auto pilot
IMHO, STEC made a very good product, but the company and customer
service have gone down the tubes. They absolutely refuse to allow
transfer of their STC between certified planes, for any amount of money.
Apparently the management changed when Cobham came in, and it isn't a
good picture. Given that even if the autopilot were given to you, you
would have to fab all the interconnects, and any repair or parts would
cost you certified prices, why bother, compared to Trutrack, Dynon and
others available in the OBAM experimental market.
On Thu, Jun 4, 2009 at 9:46 PM, Chris and Susie <vhicy@bigpond.com>
wrote:
Hi guys
I have the chance to get one of these auto pilots very
cheap however I cant get on to Stec (they do not answer there phone ) to
see if they will work on a RV10. I have some numbers and was wondering
if somone on the list new anything about these auto pilots. There is a
picture at the bottom of the numbers.
regards chris
VH-ICY
Computer/Radio
01192-0-53T
0628-10200
01192-0-53T
0703-10976
Roll Servos
0106-7-R2
0731-23347
0106-7-R2
0733-23401
Pitch Servos
0108-10-P2
0529-14952
0108-9-P2
0611-15789
Turn Coordinator
1394T100-14RB
K06-10652
1394T100-14RB
Message 15
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| Subject: | Henderson Airport |
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