Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:24 AM - Re: ramp check (David Maib)
2. 06:21 AM - rear spar caps (JHearnsberger)
3. 06:34 AM - Re: rear spar caps (Tim Olson)
4. 06:35 AM - Re: rear spar caps (Kelly McMullen)
5. 06:45 AM - Re: rear spar caps (Perry, Phil)
6. 07:50 AM - Re: Re: IO 540 motor oil? (Pascal)
7. 09:51 AM - Re: rear spar caps (John Cumins)
8. 10:47 AM - Re: Wing Kit (Brian Steeves)
9. 12:02 PM - Cabin Cover Question (Bob Leffler)
10. 12:13 PM - Re: Cabin Cover Question (Seano)
11. 12:27 PM - Re: Cabin Cover Question (Jeff Carpenter)
12. 12:33 PM - Re: Cabin Cover Question (Bob Leffler)
13. 12:43 PM - Re: Cabin Cover Question (Seano)
14. 01:06 PM - Re: rear spar caps (JHearnsberger)
15. 01:32 PM - Re: rear spar caps (Albert Gardner)
16. 02:32 PM - Re: Re: Wing Kit (Rick Lark)
17. 03:08 PM - Re: rear spar caps (JHearnsberger)
18. 03:23 PM - Re: Re: Wing Kit (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
19. 03:30 PM - Re: Re: rear spar caps (Jeff Carpenter)
20. 03:50 PM - FWF Kit (Jeff Carpenter)
21. 04:09 PM - Re: FWF Kit (Pascal)
22. 04:37 PM - Re: rear spar caps (JHearnsberger)
23. 04:46 PM - Re: FWF Kit (Chris Colohan)
24. 04:57 PM - Re: FWF Kit (Rick)
25. 05:22 PM - Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation (Deems Davis)
26. 05:42 PM - oil adapter spacer (Dave Leikam)
27. 05:52 PM - Re: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation (Don McDonald)
28. 05:59 PM - Re: First Flight (rv10flyer)
29. 06:07 PM - Re: oil adapter spacer (Don McDonald)
30. 06:08 PM - Re: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation (ricksked@cox.net)
31. 06:19 PM - Re: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation (John Cumins)
32. 06:22 PM - Re: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation (John Cumins)
33. 06:39 PM - Re: oil adapter spacer (Rick)
34. 06:40 PM - Re: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation (Rick)
35. 06:53 PM - Re: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation (DLM)
36. 07:13 PM - Re: Re: rear spar caps (Kelly McMullen)
37. 07:38 PM - Re: Re: rear spar caps (Kelly McMullen)
38. 08:17 PM - Re: rear spar caps (JHearnsberger)
39. 08:49 PM - Re: Re: rear spar caps (Kelly McMullen)
40. 09:24 PM - Re: Re: rear spar caps (Seano)
41. 11:11 PM - Re: Re: rear spar caps (Jeff Carpenter)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
My Phase 1 operating limitations state in Para. 1 that the ops lims
must be carried in the aircraft at all times. Then, the first para.
of my Phase II operating limitations list all of the phase 1
limitations that are still in effect for Phase II. This includes
Para. 1 of my phase 1 limitations.
I have a nice POH (plagiarized from others on this list ^_^) but my
DAR told that while it is a good thing to have, it is not required.
David Maib
40559
Flying
On Jan 12, 2010, at 11:28 PM, ricksked@cox.net wrote:
David,
You need the operating limitations after the test period? I swore
that the POH requirement didn't exclude experimentals but seemed
inclusive to all aircraft Now I have to re read the book...and I
don't have to use the restroom!!
Rick S
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
From: David Maib <dmaib@mac.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: ramp check
I don't think there is any requirement for a POH for EAB aircraft.
However, you must have your Operating Limitations that were issued by
the DAR, on board. I don't think that is in the FAR's but should be
in your Operating Limitations.
David Maib
40559
Flying
On Jan 12, 2010, at 9:24 PM, Rick wrote:
Hey Doc,
I was reading the FAR=92s last night about this just for grits and
shins. I understand you need your pilot cert, medical, W&B and a
POH. I could not find anything else. My Weight and Balance is on my
AFS -3500, I don=92t calc one on paper, just plug in the numbers on the
EFIS=85.that may be a good question in the future. I do have W & B info
on paper =85many of them from flight test but the EFIS is my main way
of computing it=85Need to make sure I plug it in on every flight now
too huh?
Rick S.
N246RS
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of pilotdds@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2010 6:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: ramp check
While taxiing up for fuel at DVT I was ramp checked by a FAA rep.He
had me produce my medical, pilot certificate,flight instructor
certificate,registration,airworthiness certificate,weight and balance
info and signed by the FAA flight manual-all was in order in the
SR-22 I was flying.Do are experimentals require an approved manual ?
Must they be signed by the FAA?
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://
www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://forums.matronics.com
style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://
www.matronics.com/contribution
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I clamped, marked, and cut the rear spar caps outside of my line using a band saw.
My cuts had a couple of gradual waves in them. I worked them out with an air belt
sander and file by clamping the two pieces back to back to try to get them
even.
It is not that big of a deal other than I would like to get as much insight as
possible while starting out. The cut is not perfect, but will it be ok? Please
see attached images.
Also, my air belt sander uses 60 to 120 grit belts. Is this fine enough for deburring
aluminum?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281268#281268
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0107_114.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0108_237.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0109_150.jpg
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: rear spar caps |
The cuts are probably straight enough, but 60 and 120 grit is not
fine enough to do good deburring. Run those pieces over a
scotchbrite wheel until you see no nicks at all. They will
look mirror smooth.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
JHearnsberger wrote:
>
> I clamped, marked, and cut the rear spar caps outside of my line using a band
saw.
>
> My cuts had a couple of gradual waves in them. I worked them out with an air
belt sander and file by clamping the two pieces back to back to try to get them
even.
>
> It is not that big of a deal other than I would like to get as much insight as
possible while starting out. The cut is not perfect, but will it be ok? Please
see attached images.
>
> Also, my air belt sander uses 60 to 120 grit belts. Is this fine enough for deburring
aluminum?
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281268#281268
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0107_114.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0108_237.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0109_150.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: rear spar caps |
Follow up your sanding with a pass of the Scotchbrite wheel. It will get you
a nice smooth finish. I wouldn't worry too much about your cut.
Kelly
40866, QB Wings/Fuse
On Wed, Jan 13, 2010 at 7:20 AM, JHearnsberger
<jakehearnsberger@gmail.com>wrote:
> jakehearnsberger@gmail.com>
>
> I clamped, marked, and cut the rear spar caps outside of my line using a
> band saw.
>
> My cuts had a couple of gradual waves in them. I worked them out with an
> air belt sander and file by clamping the two pieces back to back to try to
> get them even.
>
> It is not that big of a deal other than I would like to get as much insight
> as possible while starting out. The cut is not perfect, but will it be ok?
> Please see attached images.
>
> Also, my air belt sander uses 60 to 120 grit belts. Is this fine enough for
> deburring aluminum?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281268#281268
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0107_114.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0108_237.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0109_150.jpg
>
>
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: rear spar caps |
TG9va3MgZ29vZC4gSnVzdCBmaW5pc2ggdGhlbSBvZmYgd2l0aCBhIHNjb3RjaGJyaXRlIHdoZWVs
LiAgDQoNCkkgdXNlIGEgMSIgd2hlZWwgIG9uIGEgZGllIGdyaW5kZXIuIFdvcmtzIGdyZWF0IG9u
IHRob3NlIGVkZ2VzLiANCg0KUGhpbA0KDQoNCg0KLS0tLS0gT3JpZ2luYWwgTWVzc2FnZSAtLS0t
LQ0KRnJvbTogSkhlYXJuc2JlcmdlciA8amFrZWhlYXJuc2JlcmdlckBnbWFpbC5jb20+DQpUbzog
cnYxMC1saXN0QG1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20gPHJ2MTAtbGlzdEBtYXRyb25pY3MuY29tPg0KU2VudDog
V2VkIEphbiAxMyAwNjoyMDo0MCAyMDEwDQpTdWJqZWN0OiBSVjEwLUxpc3Q6IHJlYXIgc3BhciBj
YXBzDQoNCi0tPiBSVjEwLUxpc3QgbWVzc2FnZSBwb3N0ZWQgYnk6ICJKSGVhcm5zYmVyZ2VyIiA8
amFrZWhlYXJuc2JlcmdlckBnbWFpbC5jb20+DQoNCkkgY2xhbXBlZCwgbWFya2VkLCBhbmQgY3V0
IHRoZSByZWFyIHNwYXIgY2FwcyBvdXRzaWRlIG9mIG15IGxpbmUgdXNpbmcgYSBiYW5kIHNhdy4N
Cg0KTXkgY3V0cyBoYWQgYSBjb3VwbGUgb2YgZ3JhZHVhbCB3YXZlcyBpbiB0aGVtLiBJIHdvcmtl
ZCB0aGVtIG91dCB3aXRoIGFuIGFpciBiZWx0IHNhbmRlciBhbmQgZmlsZSBieSBjbGFtcGluZyB0
aGUgdHdvIHBpZWNlcyBiYWNrIHRvIGJhY2sgdG8gdHJ5IHRvIGdldCB0aGVtIGV2ZW4uDQoNCkl0
IGlzIG5vdCB0aGF0IGJpZyBvZiBhIGRlYWwgb3RoZXIgdGhhbiBJIHdvdWxkIGxpa2UgdG8gZ2V0
IGFzIG11Y2ggaW5zaWdodCBhcyBwb3NzaWJsZSB3aGlsZSBzdGFydGluZyBvdXQuIFRoZSBjdXQg
aXMgbm90IHBlcmZlY3QsIGJ1dCB3aWxsIGl0IGJlIG9rPyBQbGVhc2Ugc2VlIGF0dGFjaGVkIGlt
YWdlcy4NCg0KQWxzbywgbXkgYWlyIGJlbHQgc2FuZGVyIHVzZXMgNjAgdG8gMTIwIGdyaXQgYmVs
dHMuIElzIHRoaXMgZmluZSBlbm91Z2ggZm9yIGRlYnVycmluZyBhbHVtaW51bT8NCg0KDQoNCg0K
UmVhZCB0aGlzIHRvcGljIG9ubGluZSBoZXJlOg0KDQpodHRwOi8vZm9ydW1zLm1hdHJvbmljcy5j
b20vdmlld3RvcGljLnBocD9wPTI4MTI2OCMyODEyNjgNCg0KDQoNCg0KQXR0YWNobWVudHM6IA0K
DQpodHRwOi8vZm9ydW1zLm1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20vL2ZpbGVzL2ltZ18wMTA3XzExNC5qcGcNCmh0
dHA6Ly9mb3J1bXMubWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbS8vZmlsZXMvaW1nXzAxMDhfMjM3LmpwZw0KaHR0cDov
L2ZvcnVtcy5tYXRyb25pY3MuY29tLy9maWxlcy9pbWdfMDEwOV8xNTAuanBnDQoNCg0KDQoNCl8t
PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09
PT09DQpfLT0gICAgICAgICAgLSBUaGUgUlYxMC1MaXN0IEVtYWlsIEZvcnVtIC0NCl8tPSBVc2Ug
dGhlIE1hdHJvbmljcyBMaXN0IEZlYXR1cmVzIE5hdmlnYXRvciB0byBicm93c2UNCl8tPSB0aGUg
bWFueSBMaXN0IHV0aWxpdGllcyBzdWNoIGFzIExpc3QgVW4vU3Vic2NyaXB0aW9uLA0KXy09IEFy
Y2hpdmUgU2VhcmNoICYgRG93bmxvYWQsIDctRGF5IEJyb3dzZSwgQ2hhdCwgRkFRLA0KXy09IFBo
b3Rvc2hhcmUsIGFuZCBtdWNoIG11Y2ggbW9yZToNCl8tPQ0KXy09ICAgLS0+IGh0dHA6Ly93d3cu
bWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbS9OYXZpZ2F0b3I/UlYxMC1MaXN0DQpfLT0NCl8tPT09PT09PT09PT09PT09
PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09DQpfLT0gICAgICAg
ICAgICAgICAtIE1BVFJPTklDUyBXRUIgRk9SVU1TIC0NCl8tPSBTYW1lIGdyZWF0IGNvbnRlbnQg
YWxzbyBhdmFpbGFibGUgdmlhIHRoZSBXZWIgRm9ydW1zIQ0KXy09DQpfLT0gICAtLT4gaHR0cDov
L2ZvcnVtcy5tYXRyb25pY3MuY29tDQpfLT0NCl8tPT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09
PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09DQpfLT0gICAgICAgICAgICAgLSBMaXN0
IENvbnRyaWJ1dGlvbiBXZWIgU2l0ZSAtDQpfLT0gIFRoYW5rIHlvdSBmb3IgeW91ciBnZW5lcm91
cyBzdXBwb3J0IQ0KXy09ICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgLU1hdHQgRHJhbGxl
LCBMaXN0IEFkbWluLg0KXy09ICAgLS0+IGh0dHA6Ly93d3cubWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbS9jb250cmli
dXRpb24NCl8tPT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09
PT09PT09PT09PT09DQoNCg0KDQo
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: IO 540 motor oil? |
Finally got out to the Eci page-
http://www.eci.aero/pages/tech.aspx#breakin
From: John Gonzalez
Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2010 12:30 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: IO 540 motor oil?
I spoke to Lycoming's Bart, He then spoke to the tech department. He
said that the Cortec VC1-326 could be added to a 20w-50 mineral engine
oil in a 1 to 10 ratio. I will be using a syringe to fill the two
cylinders that lost the oil whan I removed the lower plugs.
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: IO 540 motor oil?
> From: Mikeabel@Pacbell.net
> Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 11:03:16 -0800
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
>
> Per Ricksked if the engine is new you MUST use straight Mineral Oil
per Lycoming's specs until "the oil consumption stabilizes". Get it from
your local FBO, Spruce, or Chief Aircraft. Be sure to drain all of the
preservative oil from the engine first.
>
> --------
> OSH '10 or Bust
> Q/B - testing phase 1
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281189#281189
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Jake those look just fine. You will find you will get the cut and finish
next to the fine line skills will come back fast. Kind of like coloring
book skills as a kid. What helps me get a nice straight edge is I use a 12
in disk sander that is mounted on my shop smith. With the table 90 degrees
to the sanding disk I get a nice clean straight and square edge on material
I am trying to make.
Check Harbor Freight for a cheap table top 8-10 in disc sander there worth
every penny.
John G. Cumins
40864 Emp in primer mode
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of JHearnsberger
Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 6:21 AM
Subject: RV10-List: rear spar caps
<jakehearnsberger@gmail.com>
I clamped, marked, and cut the rear spar caps outside of my line using a
band saw.
My cuts had a couple of gradual waves in them. I worked them out with an air
belt sander and file by clamping the two pieces back to back to try to get
them even.
It is not that big of a deal other than I would like to get as much insight
as possible while starting out. The cut is not perfect, but will it be ok?
Please see attached images.
Also, my air belt sander uses 60 to 120 grit belts. Is this fine enough for
deburring aluminum?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281268#281268
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0107_114.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0108_237.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0109_150.jpg
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Vans is way behind on the wing kits. I ordered a slow build end of August and
just received a phone call today that it should ship next week.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281305#281305
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Cabin Cover Question |
On 43-7 requires the bending the top portion of the F-1042 bulkhead side
channel. My question is how difficult to take the cabin cover off after
making this bend? I'm not ready to put the cabin cover on for good yet.
There is a reference on 43-10 that states the cover is on for good. It
appears to me that it would be darn impossible to take the cover off once
the bulkhead is bent to conform to the cabin cover. I'm just looking for
conformation or denial of my suspicion.
Thanks,
Bob
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Cover Question |
It's not bad. I've done it a thousand times lately. You just have to
set one side in and pulltje other side around the vended channel. Go
for it!
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 13, 2010, at 13:03, "Bob Leffler" <rv@thelefflers.com> wrote:
> On 43-7 requires the bending the top portion of the F-1042 bulkhead
> side channel. My question is how difficult to take the cabin cover
> off after making this bend? I=99m not ready to put the cabin
cover o
> n for good yet. There is a reference on 43-10 that states the cov
> er is on for good. It appears to me that it would be darn impossib
> le to take the cover off once the bulkhead is bent to conform to the
> cabin cover. I=99m just looking for conformation or denial of
my sus
> picion.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Bob
>
>
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Cover Question |
not difficult Bob. The side of the cover flexes enough to pull it out
past the bend before you lift it up.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Jan 13, 2010, at 12:03 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
> On 43-7 requires the bending the top portion of the F-1042 bulkhead
> side channel. My question is how difficult to take the cabin cover
> off after making this bend? I=92m not ready to put the cabin cover
> on for good yet. There is a reference on 43-10 that states the
> cover is on for good. It appears to me that it would be darn
> impossible to take the cover off once the bulkhead is bent to
> conform to the cabin cover. I=92m just looking for conformation or
> denial of my suspicion.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
>
>
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Cabin Cover Question |
Thanks Sean!
How=99s the overhead console coming along?
bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Seano
Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 3:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Question
It's not bad. I've done it a thousand times lately. You just have to set
one side in and pulltje other side around the vended channel. Go for
it!
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 13, 2010, at 13:03, "Bob Leffler" <rv@thelefflers.com> wrote:
On 43-7 requires the bending the top portion of the F-1042 bulkhead side
channel. My question is how difficult to take the cabin cover off
after making this bend? I=99m not ready to put the cabin cover
on for good yet. There is a reference on 43-10 that states the cover
is on for good. It appears to me that it would be darn impossible to
take the cover off once the bulkhead is bent to conform to the cabin
cover. I=99m just looking for conformation or denial of my
suspicion.
Thanks,
Bob
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
ontribution
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Cover Question |
Great! It fit really well and it's glued on for good. I have been
taking the canopy off and on for the door fitting. It was really hard
for me to figure out the steps of the canopy. I was afraid to mount the
canopy with clecos and fit the doors so I have been bolting and clecoing
the entire canopy for the doors. I then have to take it back off and
sand and fill so I can paint the interior. I am 90 percent sure right
now that I will be painting the canopy instead of using a headliner. I
could do either one with the overhead console. It has been easy to
blend because the lip is so thin. I am doing some stuff with the
aluminum inserts for lighting and I will be taking some pics soon. I
had to work today so I am in BOI and away from my baby. Call me if you
have any questions.
801-580-3737
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Leffler
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 1:35 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Question
Thanks Sean!
How=99s the overhead console coming along?
bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Seano
Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 3:12 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Question
It's not bad. I've done it a thousand times lately. You just have to
set one side in and pulltje other side around the vended channel. Go
for it!
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 13, 2010, at 13:03, "Bob Leffler" <rv@thelefflers.com> wrote:
On 43-7 requires the bending the top portion of the F-1042 bulkhead
side channel. My question is how difficult to take the cabin cover off
after making this bend? I=99m not ready to put the cabin cover
on for good yet. There is a reference on 43-10 that states the cover
is on for good. It appears to me that it would be darn impossible to
take the cover off once the bulkhead is bent to conform to the cabin
cover. I=99m just looking for conformation or denial of my
suspicion.
Thanks,
Bob
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://foru
ms.matronics.comhref="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www
.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comht
tp://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: rear spar caps |
Thank you.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281328#281328
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Early on in building I was advised to get a roll of the 3" wide adhesive
backed sand paper usually sold in auto supply houses. You can stick it to
most anything, a socket for small radis, a section of PVC pipe for larger, a
form you cut from wood for the windshield lower fairing, or a short section
of 2x4. Most useful to me was 80 and 220. A long roll was about $33 as I
recall and I used about half a roll in building. Also you might look at a
vixen file.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Wow, thanks for that info Brian. I think I will order my slow build wings
this week.
Rick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Steeves" <Brian.Steeves@Parkenna.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 1:45 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Wing Kit
> <Brian.Steeves@Parkenna.com>
>
> Vans is way behind on the wing kits. I ordered a slow build end of August
> and just received a phone call today that it should ship next week.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281305#281305
>
>
>
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: rear spar caps |
What type of scotchbrite wheel? Is it the rolec pad? I am looking for something
to attach to my die grinder. Also, what grit?
Sent from my iPhone.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281348#281348
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I have no idea about the current situation but my experience was that
availability from Vans can change rapidly in either direction.
Cancellations, logistics, whatever might play a a part.
I was warned about long lead times for some items and everything ended
up being available pretty much immediately. Be prepared to be faced
with the decision to accept stuff earlier than expected or to pass it up.
What are the tradeoffs? Expense is clearly the big one. Beyond that it
seemed to me that having stuff in house would only motivate and ease the
build process. In retrospect, getting a later, improved version of say
the canopy top would be equally valuable. And taking more time to learn
what aftermarket parts one may want to swap in could save a little $$.
Just my experience, YMMV.
Bill "he who sands green canopy, pink doors and a pink cowling" Watson
do not archive
Rick Lark wrote:
>
> Wow, thanks for that info Brian. I think I will order my slow build
> wings this week.
>
> Rick
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Steeves"
> <Brian.Steeves@Parkenna.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 1:45 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Wing Kit
>
>
>> <Brian.Steeves@Parkenna.com>
>>
>> Vans is way behind on the wing kits. I ordered a slow build end of
>> August and just received a phone call today that it should ship next
>> week.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281305#281305
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: rear spar caps |
3M SCOTCH-BRITE DEBURRING WHEEL from Aircraft Spruce
On Jan 13, 2010, at 3:07 PM, JHearnsberger wrote:
> >
>
> What type of scotchbrite wheel? Is it the rolec pad? I am looking
> for something to attach to my die grinder. Also, what grit?
>
> Sent from my iPhone.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281348#281348
>
>
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I think I'll take the plunge on the FWF kit before the prices go up at
the end of the month. Are there any items to leave out of the Vans
order (other than the hoses) and source somewhere else? Also, what's
the weight penalty and additional install time for the Throttle
Quadrant?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
... seeing the light at the end of the fiberglass tunnel
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Jeff;
Vans now has quality hoses in their kits. I was quite surprised to see
firesleeves on the fluid hoses.
You will need to order the fuel line hose that goes to the fuel injector,
that is not part of the kit.
I ordered mine from Aircraft hoses. they knew what hose I needed.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Jeff Carpenter" <jeff@westcottpress.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 3:49 PM
Subject: RV10-List: FWF Kit
>
> I think I'll take the plunge on the FWF kit before the prices go up at
> the end of the month. Are there any items to leave out of the Vans order
> (other than the hoses) and source somewhere else? Also, what's the
> weight penalty and additional install time for the Throttle Quadrant?
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
> ... seeing the light at the end of the fiberglass tunnel
>
>
>
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: rear spar caps |
I think I would prefer to use it in a bench grinder. Does anyone have any recommendations
for a good bench grinder to use with the scotchbrite wheel?
Thanks,
Jake
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281359#281359
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Ooooh, price increases. (I've been waffling on when to order my tail kit,
this might push me over the edge.)
Any word on what the new prices might look like (how much they will go up)?
Chris
On Wed, Jan 13, 2010 at 3:49 PM, Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>wrote:
>
> I think I'll take the plunge on the FWF kit before the prices go up at the
> end of the month. Are there any items to leave out of the Vans order (other
> than the hoses) and source somewhere else? Also, what's the weight penalty
> and additional install time for the Throttle Quadrant?
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
> ... seeing the light at the end of the fiberglass tunnel
>
>
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
They are on the website by now but usually 3 to 5 percent
Done buying for now, next time I get the repeat offender price!!
Rick Sked
N246RS
Flying
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Colohan
Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 4:45 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: FWF Kit
Ooooh, price increases. (I've been waffling on when to order my tail kit,
this might push me over the edge.)
Any word on what the new prices might look like (how much they will go up)?
Chris
On Wed, Jan 13, 2010 at 3:49 PM, Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
wrote:
I think I'll take the plunge on the FWF kit before the prices go up at the
end of the month. Are there any items to leave out of the Vans order (other
than the hoses) and source somewhere else? Also, what's the weight penalty
and additional install time for the Throttle Quadrant?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
... seeing the light at the end of the fiberglass tunnel
==========
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
==========
http://forums.matronics.com
==========
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation |
I've been watching the tire wear, and after 110 hrs, the left( pilot)
side tire is showing extreme wear on the outside of the tire, the Right
is also showing wear on the outside, but not as extreme.
What have others experienced?
So today, I pulled the wheels off and reversed the tires and tubes to
try and get some more wear out of the tires. When pulling the left tire
off the axel, the brake lining for the inboard brake pad dropped to the
floor! It appears that the shoulder that is supposed to hold the rivet
liner to the pad let go, and the rivet heads were "floating" inside of
the countersunk area. Fortunately there is minimal brake wear, and
therefore little movement in the brake when activated. But, if the brake
wear had been greater, there's a possibility that the pad/liner would
have moved and jammed it self against the brake disc. If this had
happened on landing and braking, I wouldn't have wanted to be along for
that ride. Checking with the locals this is a problem that one person
has seen when the rivets holding the liners are set too tight. since
these were the parts that came with the kit from Cleveland, I would
expect that they should have some quality control in their mfg to
eliminate/minimize this. Upon inspection and comparison with the
inboard rivets to the outboard .liner rivets, it appears that they are
'deeper' into the countersunk area , and possibly the shoulder of the
brake material that holds them was thinner and possibly weaker. Anyway
replacement pads on on there way. Something to keep in mind when you do
your conditionals or change tires.
Deems Davis
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | oil adapter spacer |
For those who have installed the B&C angled oil adapter, what size
spacer did you need if any?
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation |
Deems, You did better than I did.... I switched mine at 90 hours... and the
pilot side was worse than the other side.- At the same time I installed
air stop tubes.- Guess It's getting time to get an order together for tir
es.- Brakes looked good.
Which pads did you order?
Any word on the Alaska trip you hinted about?
Weather here in the SAC area has been terrible... at least for flying.- J
ust enough overcast/fog to keep you on the ground.- Going up tomorrow tho
ugh.
Don McDonald
--- On Wed, 1/13/10, Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net> wrote:
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation
I've been watching the tire wear, and after 110 hrs, the left( pilot) side
tire is showing extreme wear on the outside of the tire, the Right is also
showing wear on the outside, but not as extreme.
What have others experienced?
So today, I pulled the wheels off and reversed the tires and tubes to try a
nd get some more wear out of the tires. When pulling the left tire off the
axel, the brake lining for the inboard brake pad dropped to the floor! It a
ppears that the shoulder that is supposed to hold the rivet liner to the pa
d let go, and the rivet heads were "floating" inside of the countersunk are
a. Fortunately there is minimal brake wear, and therefore little movement i
n the brake when activated. But, if the brake wear had been greater, there'
s a possibility that the pad/liner would have moved and jammed it self agai
nst the brake disc. If this had happened on landing and braking, I wouldn't
have wanted to be along for that ride. Checking with the locals this is a
problem that one person has seen when the rivets holding the liners are set
too tight. since these were the parts that came with the kit from Clevelan
d, I would expect- that they should have some quality control in
their mfg to eliminate/minimize this. Upon inspection and comparison- wi
th the inboard rivets to the outboard .liner rivets, it appears that- the
y are 'deeper' into the countersunk area , and possibly the- shoulder of
the brake material that holds them- was thinner and possibly weaker. Anyw
ay replacement pads on on there way. Something to keep in mind when you do
your conditionals or change tires.
Deems Davis
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
Message 28
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
Congratulations Jay! Can hardly wait to be where you are. I am 75 hrs into my slow
build. It is going to be the same for me...all 172 time except for some flights
with a friend in his -9A.
--------
Wayne Gillispie
A&P 5/93', PP 10/08'
Grayson, KY
Bldr# 40983
Ordered complete kit 8/24/09
DB Schenker delivered 11/20/09
Starting empennage 11/24/09
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281369#281369
Message 29
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: oil adapter spacer |
Dave, I was a real newbie when I ran into this issue.... and I didn't know
the matronics board existed...- Anyway, I made my own adaptor which attat
ched to the engine, and a second, stock, adaptor went on next.- It looked
to me that the mount needed to be both spaced-rearward and offset.- It
appears to have worked.... engine performing beautifully, with all the rig
ht pressures, for over 100 hours.
Don McDonald
--- On Wed, 1/13/10, Dave Leikam <daveleikam@wi.rr.com> wrote:
From: Dave Leikam <daveleikam@wi.rr.com>
Subject: RV10-List: oil adapter spacer
For those who have installed the B&C angled oil adapter, what size spacer d
id you need if any?
-
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
=0A=0A=0A
Message 30
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation |
Same for me Deems.....I called Van's and Ken Scott said you and I need to lose
weight....actually my landings are so sweet that I still have the little nibs
on the tire after almost 80 hours :)
Rick
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation
I've been watching the tire wear, and after 110 hrs, the left( pilot)
side tire is showing extreme wear on the outside of the tire, the Right
is also showing wear on the outside, but not as extreme.
What have others experienced?
So today, I pulled the wheels off and reversed the tires and tubes to
try and get some more wear out of the tires. When pulling the left tire
off the axel, the brake lining for the inboard brake pad dropped to the
floor! It appears that the shoulder that is supposed to hold the rivet
liner to the pad let go, and the rivet heads were "floating" inside of
the countersunk area. Fortunately there is minimal brake wear, and
therefore little movement in the brake when activated. But, if the brake
wear had been greater, there's a possibility that the pad/liner would
have moved and jammed it self against the brake disc. If this had
happened on landing and braking, I wouldn't have wanted to be along for
that ride. Checking with the locals this is a problem that one person
has seen when the rivets holding the liners are set too tight. since
these were the parts that came with the kit from Cleveland, I would
expect that they should have some quality control in their mfg to
eliminate/minimize this. Upon inspection and comparison with the
inboard rivets to the outboard .liner rivets, it appears that they are
'deeper' into the countersunk area , and possibly the shoulder of the
brake material that holds them was thinner and possibly weaker. Anyway
replacement pads on on there way. Something to keep in mind when you do
your conditionals or change tires.
Deems Davis
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
Message 31
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation |
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of ricksked@cox.net
Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 6:05 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation
Same for me Deems.....I called Van's and Ken Scott said you and I need to
lose weight....actually my landings are so sweet that I still have the
little nibs on the tire after almost 80 hours :)
Rick
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation
I've been watching the tire wear, and after 110 hrs, the left( pilot)
side tire is showing extreme wear on the outside of the tire, the Right
is also showing wear on the outside, but not as extreme.
What have others experienced?
So today, I pulled the wheels off and reversed the tires and tubes to
try and get some more wear out of the tires. When pulling the left tire
off the axel, the brake lining for the inboard brake pad dropped to the
floor! It appears that the shoulder that is supposed to hold the rivet
liner to the pad let go, and the rivet heads were "floating" inside of
the countersunk area. Fortunately there is minimal brake wear, and
therefore little movement in the brake when activated. But, if the brake
wear had been greater, there's a possibility that the pad/liner would
have moved and jammed it self against the brake disc. If this had
happened on landing and braking, I wouldn't have wanted to be along for
that ride. Checking with the locals this is a problem that one person
has seen when the rivets holding the liners are set too tight. since
these were the parts that came with the kit from Cleveland, I would
expect that they should have some quality control in their mfg to
eliminate/minimize this. Upon inspection and comparison with the
inboard rivets to the outboard .liner rivets, it appears that they are
'deeper' into the countersunk area , and possibly the shoulder of the
brake material that holds them was thinner and possibly weaker. Anyway
replacement pads on on there way. Something to keep in mind when you do
your conditionals or change tires.
Deems Davis
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
Message 32
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation |
Rick
It is not that you need to loose weight cause if that was the issue the wear
would be in the inside on the outside. Outside wear is very common on
spring steel gear give it time and it might get better as the gear gets more
wear and tare on it. Either that Vans needs to correct the axel angle on
the gear leg it self.
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of ricksked@cox.net
Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 6:05 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation
Same for me Deems.....I called Van's and Ken Scott said you and I need to
lose weight....actually my landings are so sweet that I still have the
little nibs on the tire after almost 80 hours :)
Rick
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation
I've been watching the tire wear, and after 110 hrs, the left( pilot)
side tire is showing extreme wear on the outside of the tire, the Right
is also showing wear on the outside, but not as extreme.
What have others experienced?
So today, I pulled the wheels off and reversed the tires and tubes to
try and get some more wear out of the tires. When pulling the left tire
off the axel, the brake lining for the inboard brake pad dropped to the
floor! It appears that the shoulder that is supposed to hold the rivet
liner to the pad let go, and the rivet heads were "floating" inside of
the countersunk area. Fortunately there is minimal brake wear, and
therefore little movement in the brake when activated. But, if the brake
wear had been greater, there's a possibility that the pad/liner would
have moved and jammed it self against the brake disc. If this had
happened on landing and braking, I wouldn't have wanted to be along for
that ride. Checking with the locals this is a problem that one person
has seen when the rivets holding the liners are set too tight. since
these were the parts that came with the kit from Cleveland, I would
expect that they should have some quality control in their mfg to
eliminate/minimize this. Upon inspection and comparison with the
inboard rivets to the outboard .liner rivets, it appears that they are
'deeper' into the countersunk area , and possibly the shoulder of the
brake material that holds them was thinner and possibly weaker. Anyway
replacement pads on on there way. Something to keep in mind when you do
your conditionals or change tires.
Deems Davis
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
Message 33
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | oil adapter spacer |
Dave you will need the adapter=85here is a link to B & C and I think you
need
the .75 or =BE=94=85I really can=92t remember=85I need to go and measure
if someone
else doesn=92t pipe in.
http://www.bandc.biz/oil-filter-adapter.aspx
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 5:42 PM
Subject: RV10-List: oil adapter spacer
For those who have installed the B&C angled oil adapter, what size
spacer
did you need if any?
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA
Muskego, WI
Message 34
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation |
Not my issue!!!! Ken Scott or aka...the ego deflator..told me that...not
really...just thought it was funny that both Deems and I had tire wear on
the left more than the right...you still coming in on the 20th?
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins
Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 6:20 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation
Rick
It is not that you need to loose weight cause if that was the issue the wear
would be in the inside on the outside. Outside wear is very common on
spring steel gear give it time and it might get better as the gear gets more
wear and tare on it. Either that Vans needs to correct the axel angle on
the gear leg it self.
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of ricksked@cox.net
Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 6:05 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation
Same for me Deems.....I called Van's and Ken Scott said you and I need to
lose weight....actually my landings are so sweet that I still have the
little nibs on the tire after almost 80 hours :)
Rick
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation
I've been watching the tire wear, and after 110 hrs, the left( pilot)
side tire is showing extreme wear on the outside of the tire, the Right
is also showing wear on the outside, but not as extreme.
What have others experienced?
So today, I pulled the wheels off and reversed the tires and tubes to
try and get some more wear out of the tires. When pulling the left tire
off the axel, the brake lining for the inboard brake pad dropped to the
floor! It appears that the shoulder that is supposed to hold the rivet
liner to the pad let go, and the rivet heads were "floating" inside of
the countersunk area. Fortunately there is minimal brake wear, and
therefore little movement in the brake when activated. But, if the brake
wear had been greater, there's a possibility that the pad/liner would
have moved and jammed it self against the brake disc. If this had
happened on landing and braking, I wouldn't have wanted to be along for
that ride. Checking with the locals this is a problem that one person
has seen when the rivets holding the liners are set too tight. since
these were the parts that came with the kit from Cleveland, I would
expect that they should have some quality control in their mfg to
eliminate/minimize this. Upon inspection and comparison with the
inboard rivets to the outboard .liner rivets, it appears that they are
'deeper' into the countersunk area , and possibly the shoulder of the
brake material that holds them was thinner and possibly weaker. Anyway
replacement pads on on there way. Something to keep in mind when you do
your conditionals or change tires.
Deems Davis
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
Message 35
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation |
air stop tubes came with the kit.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 6:52 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation
Deems, You did better than I did.... I switched mine at 90 hours... and the
pilot side was worse than the other side. At the same time I installed air
stop tubes. Guess It's getting time to get an order together for tires.
Brakes looked good.
Which pads did you order?
Any word on the Alaska trip you hinted about?
Weather here in the SAC area has been terrible... at least for flying. Just
enough overcast/fog to keep you on the ground. Going up tomorrow though.
Don McDonald
--- On Wed, 1/13/10, Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net> wrote:
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Uneven tire wear and brake pad separation
<http://us.mc537.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=deemsdavis@cox.net> >
I've been watching the tire wear, and after 110 hrs, the left( pilot) side
tire is showing extreme wear on the outside of the tire, the Right is also
showing wear on the outside, but not as extreme.
What have others experienced?
So today, I pulled the wheels off and reversed the tires and tubes to try
and get some more wear out of the tires. When pulling the left tire off the
axel, the brake lining for the inboard brake pad dropped to the floor! It
appears that the shoulder that is supposed to hold the rivet liner to the
pad let go, and the rivet heads were "floating" inside of the countersunk
area. Fortunately there is minimal brake wear, and therefore little movement
in the brake when activated. But, if the brake wear had been greater,
there's a possibility that the pad/liner would have moved and jammed it self
against the brake disc. If this had happened on landing and braking, I
wouldn't have wanted to be along for that ride. Checking with the locals
this is a problem that one person has seen when the rivets holding the
liners are set too tight. since these were the parts that came with the kit
from Cleveland, I would expect that they should have some quality control
in their mfg to eliminate/minimize this. Upon inspection and comparison
with the inboard rivets to the outboard .liner rivets, it appears that they
are 'deeper' into the countersunk area , and possibly the shoulder of the
brake material that holds them was thinner and possibly weaker. Anyway
replacement pads on on there way. Something to keep in mind when you do your
conditionals or change tires.
Deems atronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"
target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/= - MATRONICS cs.com/"
; -Matt Dralle, List Admin=========
Message 36
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: rear spar caps |
One of the easier ways to use a large Scotchbrite wheel is to mount it in a
drill press, and just run the pieces over it. Leaves both hands free to
manipulate/control the piece being deburred. Easier to install and remove
than in a bench grinder. For large/ long pieces, like skins, a small
scotchbrite wheel in a die grinder or hand drill works fine.
On Wed, Jan 13, 2010 at 5:35 PM, JHearnsberger
<jakehearnsberger@gmail.com>wrote:
> jakehearnsberger@gmail.com>
>
> I think I would prefer to use it in a bench grinder. Does anyone have any
> recommendations for a good bench grinder to use with the scotchbrite wheel?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jake
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281359#281359
>
>
Message 37
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: rear spar caps |
I forgot to mention, generally you will get smoother results if the piece is
parallel to the rotating wheel, not the axis it is rotating about. That is
why the wheel on horizontal axis with shaft vertical works well with long
pieces held horizontal.
On Wed, Jan 13, 2010 at 8:11 PM, Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com> wrote:
> One of the easier ways to use a large Scotchbrite wheel is to mount it in a
> drill press, and just run the pieces over it. Leaves both hands free to
> manipulate/control the piece being deburred. Easier to install and remove
> than in a bench grinder. For large/ long pieces, like skins, a small
> scotchbrite wheel in a die grinder or hand drill works fine.
>
>
> On Wed, Jan 13, 2010 at 5:35 PM, JHearnsberger <jakehearnsberger@gmail.com
> > wrote:
>
>> jakehearnsberger@gmail.com>
>>
>> I think I would prefer to use it in a bench grinder. Does anyone have any
>> recommendations for a good bench grinder to use with the scotchbrite wheel?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Jake
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281359#281359
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
Message 38
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: rear spar caps |
What a great tip! Thank you.
I found the 7a wheels here http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Manufacturing/Industry/Product-Catalog/Online-Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECFTDQGLE0_nid=8ZFZHRFX71beH55CPWS904gl
I am hoping I can find it locally somewhere.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281387#281387
Message 39
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: rear spar caps |
Most of the tool kit suppliers include a large wheel as part of their
kits and sell separately. They aren't cheap, but one should do you for
the entire build process.
On Wed, Jan 13, 2010 at 9:14 PM, JHearnsberger
<jakehearnsberger@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> What a great tip! Thank you.
>
> I found the 7a wheels here http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Manufacturing/Industry/Product-Catalog/Online-Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECFTDQGLE0_nid=8ZFZHRFX71beH55CPWS904gl
>
> I am hoping I can find it locally somewhere.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281387#281387
>
>
Message 40
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: rear spar caps |
They are around 50$ I am 99 percent done with the aluminum parts and
I'm on number three??? I know other builders that just used one or two
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 13, 2010, at 21:46, Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Most of the tool kit suppliers include a large wheel as part of their
> kits and sell separately. They aren't cheap, but one should do you for
> the entire build process.
>
> On Wed, Jan 13, 2010 at 9:14 PM, JHearnsberger
> <jakehearnsberger@gmail.com> wrote:
>> >
>>
>> What a great tip! Thank you.
>>
>> I found the 7a wheels here http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Manufacturing/Industry/Product-Catalog/Online-Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECFTDQGLE0_nid=8ZFZHRFX71beH55CPWS904gl
>>
>> I am hoping I can find it locally somewhere.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281387#281387
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 41
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: rear spar caps |
Though the scotch-brite wheel is very useful, I ultimately found that
skins and long parts that were difficult to get to the wheel were
easily deburred with a large vixen file run a few times along an edge
at different angles. It's also pretty easy to overwork a part with
the scotch-brite wheel
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Yearning for the good old days of metal work... when fiberglass was
far off in the future
On Jan 13, 2010, at 3:29 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote:
> 3M SCOTCH-BRITE DEBURRING WHEEL from Aircraft Spruce
>
>
> On Jan 13, 2010, at 3:07 PM, JHearnsberger wrote:
>
>> >
>>
>> What type of scotchbrite wheel? Is it the rolec pad? I am looking
>> for something to attach to my die grinder. Also, what grit?
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281348#281348
>>
>>
>>
>> - The RV10-List --> &n=======================
>>
>>
>
>
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|