Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:51 AM - Van's Tool Kits (Ben Boatright)
2. 06:09 AM - Re: Wheel Fairing/ Plane Leveling with Laser (bill.peyton)
3. 06:31 AM - Re: Van's Tool Kits (Robert Lynch)
4. 06:31 AM - Re: Van's Tool Kits (Jonathan Beasley)
5. 06:43 AM - Re: Van's Tool Kits (Bob Leffler)
6. 07:20 AM - Re: Van's Tool Kits (Pascal)
7. 07:28 AM - Re: Van's Tool Kits (Kelly McMullen)
8. 07:40 AM - Re: Van's Tool Kits (Kelly McMullen)
9. 08:13 AM - Re: Van's Tool Kits (Jack Phillips)
10. 08:13 AM - Re: Wheel Fairing/ Plane Leveling with Laser (Bill Watson)
11. 08:14 AM - Re: Van's Tool Kits (DLM)
12. 08:34 AM - Re: Van's Tool Kits (Ben Boatright)
13. 09:17 AM - Re: Van's Tool Kits (John Cox)
14. 09:17 AM - Re: Van's Tool Kits (Pascal)
15. 09:26 AM - Re: Van's Tool Kits (Bill Watson)
16. 09:32 AM - Re: Van's Tool Kits (Bob Leffler)
17. 09:35 AM - Re: Van's Tool Kits (Jack Phillips)
18. 12:17 PM - Re: Wheel Fairing/ Plane Leveling with Laser (John Gonzalez)
19. 03:17 PM - Re: Van's Tool Kits (Chris Colohan)
20. 04:10 PM - Re: Sold on whiskers (Nick Leonard)
21. 04:40 PM - Re: Van's Tool Kits (Kelly McMullen)
22. 04:49 PM - Re: Re: Sold on whiskers (Sean Stephens)
23. 04:58 PM - Re: Wheel Fairing/ Plane Leveling with Laser (Bill Schlatterer)
24. 06:50 PM - Re: Re: Sold on whiskers (David)
25. 08:17 PM - Re: Sold on whiskers (cjay)
Message 1
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All,
I'm looking to purchase an RV-10 empennage kit within the next month or so.
In the meantime, I'm trying to get my workshop set up. I've looked at many
of the different tool kits on the market (Aircraft Spruce, Avery's, etc.).
There does seem to be some variation with regards to the kit contents and
I'm just wondering which kit might be the "better" kit.
One advantage I do have is that I'm not too far from Aircraft Spruce East,
so I could pickup a kit there (though, I would have to pay sales tax).
I would welcome any feedback that anyone might provide.
Thanks,
Ben
PS: I'm also open to purchasing used tools if anyone has any available or
suggestions for where I might look.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Wheel Fairing/ Plane Leveling with Laser |
Where did you get the laser and what model did you purchase? I can see where this
could really help out with several areas of alignment!
Bill
--------
Bill Peyton
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343035#343035
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Van's Tool Kits |
Ben.
We need to have a conversation. I have every thing you need. Call me
@573 893 2291.
Bob Lynch
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| Subject: | Re: Van's Tool Kits |
Ben,
I went through the tool kit research in February and decided to go with the
Avery Kit-106. The kit components are very good quality and you can modify
components as needed. I removed the 1001 22" Hand Rivet & Dimpling
Tool, 10765 Dimpling Mallet, and the two technical manuals (already had
them) and added the DRDT-2 Dimpling Tool. The Avery folks are very friendly
and responsive. You'll need to add 3/32" Cleco's (500 total) and 1/8" Cleco
s
(300 total), and I also recommend getting additional 1/2" and 1" side grip
clecos as well.
Jonathan Beasley
#41236 =AD Tail Cone (Wings coming in July)
From: Ben Boatright <benboatright@gmail.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Van's Tool Kits
All,
I'm looking to purchase an RV-10 empennage kit within the next month or so.
In the meantime, I'm trying to get my workshop set up. I've looked at many
of the different tool kits on the market (Aircraft Spruce, Avery's, etc.).
There does seem to be some variation with regards to the kit contents and
I'm just wondering which kit might be the "better" kit.
One advantage I do have is that I'm not too far from Aircraft Spruce East,
so I could pickup a kit there (though, I would have to pay sales tax).
I would welcome any feedback that anyone might provide.
Thanks,
Ben
PS: I'm also open to purchasing used tools if anyone has any available or
suggestions for where I might look.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Van's Tool Kits |
It's an exercise in futility..... All the major tool vendors have good kits
.
I've got tools from several of the vendors based upon getting to use them in
a builder's workshop.
As to which are best, it's going to be a personal opinion.
For example:
Drdt2 vs cframe
Pnuematic vs manual squeezed
Then there all all the other tools that aren't in the kits that make your li
fe easier in the build.
It just depends on how frugal you are or are do have to have the best tools a
vailable.
ACS just resells Avery tools. You'll be happy with either the Avery or clea
veland kits. With osh around the corner, there may be show specials from t
he vendors.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 15, 2011, at 8:46 AM, Ben Boatright <benboatright@gmail.com> wrote:
> All,
>
> I'm looking to purchase an RV-10 empennage kit within the next month or so
. In the meantime, I'm trying to get my workshop set up. I've looked at many
of the different tool kits on the market (Aircraft Spruce, Avery's, etc.). T
here does seem to be some variation with regards to the kit contents and I'm
just wondering which kit might be the "better" kit.
>
> One advantage I do have is that I'm not too far from Aircraft Spruce East,
so I could pickup a kit there (though, I would have to pay sales tax).
>
> I would welcome any feedback that anyone might provide.
>
> Thanks,
> Ben
>
> PS: I'm also open to purchasing used tools if anyone has any available or s
uggestions for where I might look.
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Van's Tool Kits |
Ben;
Time is money! If you are willing to take time building your tool kit it
can be done for far less than any kit out there.
To start- my pneumatic drill (Sioux) Brown Tools
2x/3x recoilless riveter- ebay
Pneumatic squeezer- The Yard Store
All other tools was a combo of Brown and Yard Store. Brown gave me a
discount for spending so much with them.
I built my arsenal for less than $1000. Every tool worked without an
issue for the complete build. Chose ebay carefully and you=99ll
get great tools for a great price.
If you need new, find a vendor, call them and ask what you need for a
RV-10.
Last comment- get a tungsten bar or steel, I never used any of the
bucking bars, scrap steel bars worked great for me.
Pascal
From: Ben Boatright
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2011 5:46 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Van's Tool Kits
All,
I'm looking to purchase an RV-10 empennage kit within the next month or
so. In the meantime, I'm trying to get my workshop set up. I've looked
at many of the different tool kits on the market (Aircraft Spruce,
Avery's, etc.). There does seem to be some variation with regards to the
kit contents and I'm just wondering which kit might be the "better" kit.
One advantage I do have is that I'm not too far from Aircraft Spruce
East, so I could pickup a kit there (though, I would have to pay sales
tax).
I would welcome any feedback that anyone might provide.
Thanks,
Ben
PS: I'm also open to purchasing used tools if anyone has any available
or suggestions for where I might look.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Van's Tool Kits |
Bob has summarized the high points. Another good kit is
fromhttp://www.planetools.com/Tool%20Kit.htm
With the majority of the riveting behind me, I would prefer to have both
a pneumatic squeezer and a good hand squeezer that can share dies and
yokes. There are places that the ability to slowly squeeze by hand is
preferable to the rapid squeezing of the pnuematic, and the physical
shape of the pneumatic makes access difficult.
Also consider having both a 3/8s air drill and a 1/4" air drill. The
smaller and lighter drill is nice for the more numerous rivet holes,
while you need the capacity of the 3/8" for drilling things like engine
mount holes in fire wall. For the 1/4" I have been very happy with
http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=7300R Chicago Pneumatic,
which has excellent trigger control, and is very light weight for those
days when you are match drilling a big skin with hundreds of holes.
Most of the good vendors will work with you to add/delete from their
kits to account for what you already have, what extras you want. Avery,
Cleaveland and Isham(Planetools) are top notch in service, etc. You will
find that you will add tools over time. There are some drill bits that
you only get 1, which you need throughout the project and 1 won't stay
sharp enough. (#19 and #12 for example). There will be certain drill
sizes that are only used a couple of times in the project, that a
complete numbered drill set from Harbor Freight is adequate to deal with.
If you want to minimize deburring and have nicer rivet holes, #41 and
#30 chucking reamers will do much nicer job than drill bits. (contrary
to the plans, #41 is a better fit for 3/32" rivets than #40).
Figure you will wind up spending at least 30% more than what the kit
costs, and if you are a tool junkie it could go to double the kit cost..
Have fun.
On 6/15/2011 6:40 AM, Bob Leffler wrote:
> It's an exercise in futility..... All the major tool vendors have
> good kits.
>
> I've got tools from several of the vendors based upon getting to use
> them in a builder's workshop.
>
> As to which are best, it's going to be a personal opinion.
>
> For example:
>
> Drdt2 vs cframe
> Pnuematic vs manual squeezed
>
> Then there all all the other tools that aren't in the kits that make
> your life easier in the build.
>
> It just depends on how frugal you are or are do have to have the best
> tools available.
>
> ACS just resells Avery tools. You'll be happy with either the Avery
> or cleaveland kits. With osh around the corner, there may be show
> specials from the vendors.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 15, 2011, at 8:46 AM, Ben Boatright <benboatright@gmail.com
> <mailto:benboatright@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>> All,
>>
>> I'm looking to purchase an RV-10 empennage kit within the next month
>> or so. In the meantime, I'm trying to get my workshop set up. I've
>> looked at many of the different tool kits on the market (Aircraft
>> Spruce, Avery's, etc.). There does seem to be some variation with
>> regards to the kit contents and I'm just wondering which kit might be
>> the "better" kit.
>>
>> One advantage I do have is that I'm not too far from Aircraft Spruce
>> East, so I could pickup a kit there (though, I would have to pay
>> sales tax).
>>
>> I would welcome any feedback that anyone might provide.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Ben
>>
>> PS: I'm also open to purchasing used tools if anyone has any
>> available or suggestions for where I might look.
>> *
>>
>> ==================================
>> ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ==================================
>> ums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==================================
>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==================================
>>
>> *
> *
>
>
> *
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Van's Tool Kits |
Two more good sources, Brown and Yard store. I wouldn't buy tools off
Ebay unless you really know what you are getting and who you are dealing
with. Warranty is important for the more expensive items. Refurbished is
fine for the expensive items, from reputable source. I had one tool
break, called Bob Avery...said he hadn't seen one break before, but he
would put a new one in the mail, and in a few days I had the replacement.
I would say once you have a tungsten bucking bar, you won't use any
others except where the tungsten won't fit or give correct angle.
Clecos....most are generic and okay, but for a few cents more, high
quality clecos are worth it. IIRC the ones I got from Avery were better
than most of the generic I have. Grip better, smoother action.
On 6/15/2011 7:15 AM, Pascal wrote:
> Ben;
> Time is money! If you are willing to take time building your tool kit
> it can be done for far less than any kit out there.
> To start- my pneumatic drill (Sioux) Brown Tools
> 2x/3x recoilless riveter- ebay
> Pneumatic squeezer- The Yard Store
> All other tools was a combo of Brown and Yard Store. Brown gave me a
> discount for spending so much with them.
> I built my arsenal for less than $1000. Every tool worked without an
> issue for the complete build. Chose ebay carefully and youll get
> great tools for a great price.
> If you need new, find a vendor, call them and ask what you need for a
> RV-10.
> Last comment- get a tungsten bar or steel, I never used any of the
> bucking bars, scrap steel bars worked great for me.
> Pascal
> *From:* Ben Boatright <mailto:benboatright@gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 15, 2011 5:46 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Van's Tool Kits
> All,
>
> I'm looking to purchase an RV-10 empennage kit within the next month
> or so. In the meantime, I'm trying to get my workshop set up. I've
> looked at many of the different tool kits on the market (Aircraft
> Spruce, Avery's, etc.). There does seem to be some variation with
> regards to the kit contents and I'm just wondering which kit might be
> the "better" kit.
>
> One advantage I do have is that I'm not too far from Aircraft Spruce
> East, so I could pickup a kit there (though, I would have to pay sales
> tax).
>
> I would welcome any feedback that anyone might provide.
>
> Thanks,
> Ben
>
> PS: I'm also open to purchasing used tools if anyone has any available
> or suggestions for where I might look.
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
> *
> *
>
>
> *
Message 9
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I agree with everything Kelly said, particularly about buying used tools
from ebay. I bought a used Chicago Pneumatic squeezer for $300, but by the
time I paid to have it overhauled so it would work properly I could have
bought a new one.
I also agree completely about the tungsten bucking bar. It just makes
EVERYTHING easier. If I lost mine, I'd pay another $110 and would not buck
a single rivet until I had it replaced.
Jack Phillips
#40610 Wings (ailerons)
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2011 10:38 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Van's Tool Kits
Two more good sources, Brown and Yard store. I wouldn't buy tools off
Ebay unless you really know what you are getting and who you are dealing
with. Warranty is important for the more expensive items. Refurbished is
fine for the expensive items, from reputable source. I had one tool
break, called Bob Avery...said he hadn't seen one break before, but he
would put a new one in the mail, and in a few days I had the replacement.
I would say once you have a tungsten bucking bar, you won't use any
others except where the tungsten won't fit or give correct angle.
Clecos....most are generic and okay, but for a few cents more, high
quality clecos are worth it. IIRC the ones I got from Avery were better
than most of the generic I have. Grip better, smoother action.
On 6/15/2011 7:15 AM, Pascal wrote:
> Ben;
> Time is money! If you are willing to take time building your tool kit
> it can be done for far less than any kit out there.
> To start- my pneumatic drill (Sioux) Brown Tools
> 2x/3x recoilless riveter- ebay
> Pneumatic squeezer- The Yard Store
> All other tools was a combo of Brown and Yard Store. Brown gave me a
> discount for spending so much with them.
> I built my arsenal for less than $1000. Every tool worked without an
> issue for the complete build. Chose ebay carefully and you'll get
> great tools for a great price.
> If you need new, find a vendor, call them and ask what you need for a
> RV-10.
> Last comment- get a tungsten bar or steel, I never used any of the
> bucking bars, scrap steel bars worked great for me.
> Pascal
> *From:* Ben Boatright <mailto:benboatright@gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 15, 2011 5:46 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Van's Tool Kits
> All,
>
> I'm looking to purchase an RV-10 empennage kit within the next month
> or so. In the meantime, I'm trying to get my workshop set up. I've
> looked at many of the different tool kits on the market (Aircraft
> Spruce, Avery's, etc.). There does seem to be some variation with
> regards to the kit contents and I'm just wondering which kit might be
> the "better" kit.
>
> One advantage I do have is that I'm not too far from Aircraft Spruce
> East, so I could pickup a kit there (though, I would have to pay sales
> tax).
>
> I would welcome any feedback that anyone might provide.
>
> Thanks,
> Ben
>
> PS: I'm also open to purchasing used tools if anyone has any available
> or suggestions for where I might look.
> *
>
>
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
> *
> *
>
>
> *
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Wheel Fairing/ Plane Leveling with Laser |
Nice pics Bill S - that should help many.
Regarding the laser - am I correct in thinking that you only used one
axis of the laser for the wheel alignment?
I chose to get a cheap, 1 axis, non-leveling laser (Sears) because I
just couldn't understand what to do with all the functions. Turned out
I did the hoist off the floor routine with the 1 axis and never wanted
more for that job.
However, I really like the laser now and will definitely be getting a
self leveling 2 axis laser sometime after flying this thing. Wish I had
it for my deck project. So I'm suggesting you can do the wheel
alignment thing, hoisted or not hoisted, with the cheapest unit you can
find. And using it will be a lot better than not having it. But a
nicer unit has a lot of other uses on the plane and elsewhere if you are
into it. Do you agree Bill S?
Anyway, I really struggled with how to hoist the wing-less fuse and
thought long and hard about how to avoid hoisting it. In the end,
someone on the list described using pieces of lumber, vertically, under
the spar stubs. With 1 small hydraulic jack, and some 1.5 x 1.5 oak
sticks, along with a HF engine hoist, I got the whole thing up
single-handed with surprising ease. So, another data point.
Bill " moving the 'finished' plane to the airport Saturday for final
assembly" Watson
Durham NC
On 6/14/2011 10:58 PM, Bill Schlatterer wrote:
> Ok, I also did the unthinkable easy thing and it was on an RV7a. I did NOT
> hoist the airplane up to put the wheel fairings on. I used a laser that
> gives both vertical and horizontal planes to align the wheel centerlines up
> with the fairing and then with a line offset from the centerline of the fuse
> at front and back. I think these pictures will tell the story.
>
> Did both in an afternoon along with the leg fairings. It was possible to
> get them absolutely parallel with the fuse centerline. Granted in flight
> they hang at a slightly different angle but the important thing is that they
> be parallel with the centerline airflow. I have zero rudder trim in cruise
> and the ball is centered.
>
> That is a Stanley Vert/Hor Laser and is self leveling. Lots of uses in
> setting the emp because it allows you to square two surfaces like the vert
> stab and the Hor stab as well as checking for level in Hor mode.
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Van's Tool Kits |
I suggest picking one and then adding as you need; most will easily get you
through the tail kit. But to make your job easier, you will collect and even
make some special tools over the entire build. Having built two aircraft, a
Glastar and RV10, my tool boxes contain hand squeezes, C squeeze, A squeeze,
rivet guns, drill, drill press, hydraulic press, etc. just know that over
the life of the project you will either spend your time or your money. many
jobs that can be done with simple tools take an inordinate amount of time
compared to the right tool which works instantly with good results.
You will even have duplicate tools of selected varieties carried in the
baggage area when you fly, Since your aircraft may need fixing, an FBO may
or may not elect to maintain it, since they have no continued airworthiness
information for it.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2011 7:25 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Van's Tool Kits
>
> Bob has summarized the high points. Another good kit is
> fromhttp://www.planetools.com/Tool%20Kit.htm
> With the majority of the riveting behind me, I would prefer to have both a
> pneumatic squeezer and a good hand squeezer that can share dies and yokes.
> There are places that the ability to slowly squeeze by hand is preferable
> to the rapid squeezing of the pnuematic, and the physical shape of the
> pneumatic makes access difficult.
> Also consider having both a 3/8s air drill and a 1/4" air drill. The
> smaller and lighter drill is nice for the more numerous rivet holes, while
> you need the capacity of the 3/8" for drilling things like engine mount
> holes in fire wall. For the 1/4" I have been very happy with
> http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=7300R Chicago Pneumatic,
> which has excellent trigger control, and is very light weight for those
> days when you are match drilling a big skin with hundreds of holes.
> Most of the good vendors will work with you to add/delete from their kits
> to account for what you already have, what extras you want. Avery,
> Cleaveland and Isham(Planetools) are top notch in service, etc. You will
> find that you will add tools over time. There are some drill bits that you
> only get 1, which you need throughout the project and 1 won't stay sharp
> enough. (#19 and #12 for example). There will be certain drill sizes that
> are only used a couple of times in the project, that a complete numbered
> drill set from Harbor Freight is adequate to deal with.
> If you want to minimize deburring and have nicer rivet holes, #41 and #30
> chucking reamers will do much nicer job than drill bits. (contrary to the
> plans, #41 is a better fit for 3/32" rivets than #40).
> Figure you will wind up spending at least 30% more than what the kit
> costs, and if you are a tool junkie it could go to double the kit cost..
> Have fun.
>
>
> On 6/15/2011 6:40 AM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>> It's an exercise in futility..... All the major tool vendors have good
>> kits.
>>
>> I've got tools from several of the vendors based upon getting to use them
>> in a builder's workshop.
>>
>> As to which are best, it's going to be a personal opinion.
>>
>> For example:
>>
>> Drdt2 vs cframe
>> Pnuematic vs manual squeezed
>>
>> Then there all all the other tools that aren't in the kits that make your
>> life easier in the build.
>>
>> It just depends on how frugal you are or are do have to have the best
>> tools available.
>>
>> ACS just resells Avery tools. You'll be happy with either the Avery or
>> cleaveland kits. With osh around the corner, there may be show specials
>> from the vendors.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Jun 15, 2011, at 8:46 AM, Ben Boatright <benboatright@gmail.com
>> <mailto:benboatright@gmail.com>> wrote:
>>
>>> All,
>>>
>>> I'm looking to purchase an RV-10 empennage kit within the next month or
>>> so. In the meantime, I'm trying to get my workshop set up. I've looked
>>> at many of the different tool kits on the market (Aircraft Spruce,
>>> Avery's, etc.). There does seem to be some variation with regards to the
>>> kit contents and I'm just wondering which kit might be the "better" kit.
>>>
>>> One advantage I do have is that I'm not too far from Aircraft Spruce
>>> East, so I could pickup a kit there (though, I would have to pay sales
>>> tax).
>>>
>>> I would welcome any feedback that anyone might provide.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Ben
>>>
>>> PS: I'm also open to purchasing used tools if anyone has any available
>>> or suggestions for where I might look.
>>> *
>>>
>>> ==================================
>>> ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> ==================================
>>> ums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>>> ==================================
>>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>> ==================================
>>>
>>> *
>> *
>>
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>> *
>
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>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Van's Tool Kits |
Thanks to everyone for the info so far. It has been wonderful. I am curious
(and keep in mind, I've never riveted before) about the tungsten bucking
bar. What makes it so special?
Ben
J. Ben Boatright
-----
benboatright@gmail.com
-----
Member, AOPA and EAA
On Wed, Jun 15, 2011 at 11:06 AM, Jack Phillips <pietflyr@bellsouth.net>wrote:
>
> I agree with everything Kelly said, particularly about buying used tools
> from ebay. I bought a used Chicago Pneumatic squeezer for $300, but by the
> time I paid to have it overhauled so it would work properly I could have
> bought a new one.
>
> I also agree completely about the tungsten bucking bar. It just makes
> EVERYTHING easier. If I lost mine, I'd pay another $110 and would not buck
> a single rivet until I had it replaced.
>
> Jack Phillips
> #40610 Wings (ailerons)
> Raleigh, NC
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
> Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2011 10:38 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Van's Tool Kits
>
>
> Two more good sources, Brown and Yard store. I wouldn't buy tools off
> Ebay unless you really know what you are getting and who you are dealing
> with. Warranty is important for the more expensive items. Refurbished is
> fine for the expensive items, from reputable source. I had one tool
> break, called Bob Avery...said he hadn't seen one break before, but he
> would put a new one in the mail, and in a few days I had the replacement.
> I would say once you have a tungsten bucking bar, you won't use any
> others except where the tungsten won't fit or give correct angle.
> Clecos....most are generic and okay, but for a few cents more, high
> quality clecos are worth it. IIRC the ones I got from Avery were better
> than most of the generic I have. Grip better, smoother action.
>
>
> On 6/15/2011 7:15 AM, Pascal wrote:
> > Ben;
> > Time is money! If you are willing to take time building your tool kit
> > it can be done for far less than any kit out there.
> > To start- my pneumatic drill (Sioux) Brown Tools
> > 2x/3x recoilless riveter- ebay
> > Pneumatic squeezer- The Yard Store
> > All other tools was a combo of Brown and Yard Store. Brown gave me a
> > discount for spending so much with them.
> > I built my arsenal for less than $1000. Every tool worked without an
> > issue for the complete build. Chose ebay carefully and you'll get
> > great tools for a great price.
> > If you need new, find a vendor, call them and ask what you need for a
> > RV-10.
> > Last comment- get a tungsten bar or steel, I never used any of the
> > bucking bars, scrap steel bars worked great for me.
> > Pascal
> > *From:* Ben Boatright <mailto:benboatright@gmail.com>
> > *Sent:* Wednesday, June 15, 2011 5:46 AM
> > *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> > *Subject:* RV10-List: Van's Tool Kits
> > All,
> >
> > I'm looking to purchase an RV-10 empennage kit within the next month
> > or so. In the meantime, I'm trying to get my workshop set up. I've
> > looked at many of the different tool kits on the market (Aircraft
> > Spruce, Avery's, etc.). There does seem to be some variation with
> > regards to the kit contents and I'm just wondering which kit might be
> > the "better" kit.
> >
> > One advantage I do have is that I'm not too far from Aircraft Spruce
> > East, so I could pickup a kit there (though, I would have to pay sales
> > tax).
> >
> > I would welcome any feedback that anyone might provide.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Ben
> >
> > PS: I'm also open to purchasing used tools if anyone has any available
> > or suggestions for where I might look.
> > *
> >
> >
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">
> http://www.matronics.com
> /Navigator?RV10-List
> > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
> > *
> > *
> >
> >
> > *
>
>
Message 13
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For the identical dimensional size, the mass is significantly greater,
leading to reflected energy back into the rivet. The rivet complies
much faster in those hard to reach areas. Repetitive shock impacts can
lead to rivet cracking - from "work hardening".
When you can't get a squeeze into an area, a finger tungsten bar becomes
magic.
John
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Boatright
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2011 8:28 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Van's Tool Kits
Thanks to everyone for the info so far. It has been wonderful. I am
curious (and keep in mind, I've never riveted before) about the tungsten
bucking bar. What makes it so special?
Ben
J. Ben Boatright
-----
benboatright@gmail.com
-----
Member, AOPA and EAA
On Wed, Jun 15, 2011 at 11:06 AM, Jack Phillips <pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
wrote:
<pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
I agree with everything Kelly said, particularly about buying used tools
from ebay. I bought a used Chicago Pneumatic squeezer for $300, but by
the
time I paid to have it overhauled so it would work properly I could have
bought a new one.
I also agree completely about the tungsten bucking bar. It just makes
EVERYTHING easier. If I lost mine, I'd pay another $110 and would not
buck
a single rivet until I had it replaced.
Jack Phillips
#40610 Wings (ailerons)
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly
McMullen
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2011 10:38 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Van's Tool Kits
Two more good sources, Brown and Yard store. I wouldn't buy tools off
Ebay unless you really know what you are getting and who you are dealing
with. Warranty is important for the more expensive items. Refurbished is
fine for the expensive items, from reputable source. I had one tool
break, called Bob Avery...said he hadn't seen one break before, but he
would put a new one in the mail, and in a few days I had the
replacement.
I would say once you have a tungsten bucking bar, you won't use any
others except where the tungsten won't fit or give correct angle.
Clecos....most are generic and okay, but for a few cents more, high
quality clecos are worth it. IIRC the ones I got from Avery were better
than most of the generic I have. Grip better, smoother action.
On 6/15/2011 7:15 AM, Pascal wrote:
> Ben;
> Time is money! If you are willing to take time building your tool kit
> it can be done for far less than any kit out there.
> To start- my pneumatic drill (Sioux) Brown Tools
> 2x/3x recoilless riveter- ebay
> Pneumatic squeezer- The Yard Store
> All other tools was a combo of Brown and Yard Store. Brown gave me a
> discount for spending so much with them.
> I built my arsenal for less than $1000. Every tool worked without an
> issue for the complete build. Chose ebay carefully and you'll get
> great tools for a great price.
> If you need new, find a vendor, call them and ask what you need for a
> RV-10.
> Last comment- get a tungsten bar or steel, I never used any of the
> bucking bars, scrap steel bars worked great for me.
> Pascal
> *From:* Ben Boatright <mailto:benboatright@gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 15, 2011 5:46 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Van's Tool Kits
> All,
>
> I'm looking to purchase an RV-10 empennage kit within the next month
> or so. In the meantime, I'm trying to get my workshop set up. I've
> looked at many of the different tool kits on the market (Aircraft
> Spruce, Avery's, etc.). There does seem to be some variation with
> regards to the kit contents and I'm just wondering which kit might be
> the "better" kit.
>
> One advantage I do have is that I'm not too far from Aircraft Spruce
> East, so I could pickup a kit there (though, I would have to pay sales
> tax).
>
> I would welcome any feedback that anyone might provide.
>
> Thanks,
> Ben
>
> PS: I'm also open to purchasing used tools if anyone has any available
> or suggestions for where I might look.
> *
>
>
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s
.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
> *
> *
>
>
> *
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Van's Tool Kits |
weight!
I don=99t own one, but the weight of steel gets hard on the arms
after a while, with Tungsten you don=99t need to exert much
strength to hold the bar and hence makes for easier riveting.
From: Ben Boatright
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2011 8:28 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Van's Tool Kits
Thanks to everyone for the info so far. It has been wonderful. I am
curious (and keep in mind, I've never riveted before) about the tungsten
bucking bar. What makes it so special?
Ben
J. Ben Boatright
-----
benboatright@gmail.com
-----
Member, AOPA and EAA
On Wed, Jun 15, 2011 at 11:06 AM, Jack Phillips <pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
wrote:
<pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
I agree with everything Kelly said, particularly about buying used
tools
from ebay. I bought a used Chicago Pneumatic squeezer for $300, but
by the
time I paid to have it overhauled so it would work properly I could
have
bought a new one.
I also agree completely about the tungsten bucking bar. It just makes
EVERYTHING easier. If I lost mine, I'd pay another $110 and would not
buck
a single rivet until I had it replaced.
Jack Phillips
#40610 Wings (ailerons)
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly
McMullen
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2011 10:38 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Van's Tool Kits
Two more good sources, Brown and Yard store. I wouldn't buy tools off
Ebay unless you really know what you are getting and who you are
dealing
with. Warranty is important for the more expensive items. Refurbished
is
fine for the expensive items, from reputable source. I had one tool
break, called Bob Avery...said he hadn't seen one break before, but he
would put a new one in the mail, and in a few days I had the
replacement.
I would say once you have a tungsten bucking bar, you won't use any
others except where the tungsten won't fit or give correct angle.
Clecos....most are generic and okay, but for a few cents more, high
quality clecos are worth it. IIRC the ones I got from Avery were
better
than most of the generic I have. Grip better, smoother action.
On 6/15/2011 7:15 AM, Pascal wrote:
> Ben;
> Time is money! If you are willing to take time building your tool
kit
> it can be done for far less than any kit out there.
> To start- my pneumatic drill (Sioux) Brown Tools
> 2x/3x recoilless riveter- ebay
> Pneumatic squeezer- The Yard Store
> All other tools was a combo of Brown and Yard Store. Brown gave me a
> discount for spending so much with them.
> I built my arsenal for less than $1000. Every tool worked without an
> issue for the complete build. Chose ebay carefully and you'll get
> great tools for a great price.
> If you need new, find a vendor, call them and ask what you need for
a
> RV-10.
> Last comment- get a tungsten bar or steel, I never used any of the
> bucking bars, scrap steel bars worked great for me.
> Pascal
> *From:* Ben Boatright <mailto:benboatright@gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 15, 2011 5:46 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Van's Tool Kits
> All,
>
> I'm looking to purchase an RV-10 empennage kit within the next month
> or so. In the meantime, I'm trying to get my workshop set up. I've
> looked at many of the different tool kits on the market (Aircraft
> Spruce, Avery's, etc.). There does seem to be some variation with
> regards to the kit contents and I'm just wondering which kit might
be
> the "better" kit.
>
> One advantage I do have is that I'm not too far from Aircraft Spruce
> East, so I could pickup a kit there (though, I would have to pay
sales
> tax).
>
> I would welcome any feedback that anyone might provide.
>
> Thanks,
> Ben
>
> PS: I'm also open to purchasing used tools if anyone has any
available
> or suggestions for where I might look.
> *
>
>
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
> *
> *
>
>
> *
==========
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
==========
http://forums.matronics.com
==========
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Van's Tool Kits |
Density.... specific gravity (?). Whatever, Tungsten is much heavier
per cubic inch than steel. A small bar is as effective as a larger one
so it fits in small spaces, bucks easier etc.
Having said that, I didn't get one until 1/2 thru my project. It's
great. However, in easy to access areas, a lighter but bigger steel bar
can be nice. Less hand strain, easier to hold, etc.
The real 'danger' with any bar but especially the tungsten is when you
drop it and it hits the skin. Nasty. That's when a more easily gripped
bar can be nice.
Hope you have access to someone who can show you the basics of
riveting... not brain science but lot's of little tricks and just helps
to get some dual time.
Bill
On 6/15/2011 11:28 AM, Ben Boatright wrote:
> Thanks to everyone for the info so far. It has been wonderful. I am
> curious (and keep in mind, I've never riveted before) about the
> tungsten bucking bar. What makes it so special?
>
> Ben
>
> J. Ben Boatright
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Van's Tool Kits |
It is more dense, which makes riveting easier. Most are also smaller in siz
e. With the exception of a handful of rivets, I used my tungsten bar for ev
erything. It's more expensive, but well worth it.
You are starting to see the rat hole tool buying can become......
Next will be:
Adjustable die holder and quick disconnects for you pneumatic squeezed
Quick bit changer replacing the chuck on your drill
Drdt2
Light weight air hoses
Pneumatic cleco gun
Digital torque wrench
The list goes on.......
It's an ailment that affects many an rv'er.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 15, 2011, at 11:28 AM, Ben Boatright <benboatright@gmail.com> wrote:
> Thanks to everyone for the info so far. It has been wonderful. I am curiou
s (and keep in mind, I've never riveted before) about the tungsten bucking b
ar. What makes it so special?
>
> Ben
>
> J. Ben Boatright
> -----
> benboatright@gmail.com
> -----
> Member, AOPA and EAA
>
>
>
> On Wed, Jun 15, 2011 at 11:06 AM, Jack Phillips <pietflyr@bellsouth.net> w
rote:
>
> I agree with everything Kelly said, particularly about buying used tools
> from ebay. I bought a used Chicago Pneumatic squeezer for $300, but by th
e
> time I paid to have it overhauled so it would work properly I could have
> bought a new one.
>
> I also agree completely about the tungsten bucking bar. It just makes
> EVERYTHING easier. If I lost mine, I'd pay another $110 and would not buc
k
> a single rivet until I had it replaced.
>
> Jack Phillips
> #40610 Wings (ailerons)
> Raleigh, NC
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
> Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2011 10:38 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Van's Tool Kits
>
>
> Two more good sources, Brown and Yard store. I wouldn't buy tools off
> Ebay unless you really know what you are getting and who you are dealing
> with. Warranty is important for the more expensive items. Refurbished is
> fine for the expensive items, from reputable source. I had one tool
> break, called Bob Avery...said he hadn't seen one break before, but he
> would put a new one in the mail, and in a few days I had the replacement.
> I would say once you have a tungsten bucking bar, you won't use any
> others except where the tungsten won't fit or give correct angle.
> Clecos....most are generic and okay, but for a few cents more, high
> quality clecos are worth it. IIRC the ones I got from Avery were better
> than most of the generic I have. Grip better, smoother action.
>
>
> On 6/15/2011 7:15 AM, Pascal wrote:
> > Ben;
> > Time is money! If you are willing to take time building your tool kit
> > it can be done for far less than any kit out there.
> > To start- my pneumatic drill (Sioux) Brown Tools
> > 2x/3x recoilless riveter- ebay
> > Pneumatic squeezer- The Yard Store
> > All other tools was a combo of Brown and Yard Store. Brown gave me a
> > discount for spending so much with them.
> > I built my arsenal for less than $1000. Every tool worked without an
> > issue for the complete build. Chose ebay carefully and you'll get
> > great tools for a great price.
> > If you need new, find a vendor, call them and ask what you need for a
> > RV-10.
> > Last comment- get a tungsten bar or steel, I never used any of the
> > bucking bars, scrap steel bars worked great for me.
> > Pascal
> > *From:* Ben Boatright <mailto:benboatright@gmail.com>
> > *Sent:* Wednesday, June 15, 2011 5:46 AM
> > *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> > *Subject:* RV10-List: Van's Tool Kits
> > All,
> >
> > I'm looking to purchase an RV-10 empennage kit within the next month
> > or so. In the meantime, I'm trying to get my workshop set up. I've
> > looked at many of the different tool kits on the market (Aircraft
> > Spruce, Avery's, etc.). There does seem to be some variation with
> > regards to the kit contents and I'm just wondering which kit might be
> > the "better" kit.
> >
> > One advantage I do have is that I'm not too far from Aircraft Spruce
> > East, so I could pickup a kit there (though, I would have to pay sales
> > tax).
> >
> > I would welcome any feedback that anyone might provide.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Ben
> >
> > PS: I'm also open to purchasing used tools if anyone has any available
> > or suggestions for where I might look.
> > *
> >
> >
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics
.com
> /Navigator?RV10-List
> > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/
c
> > *
> > *
> >
> >
> > *
>
>
>
>
>
> ==========
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
>
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
Message 17
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Density and hardness. Tungsten's density is 19.25 g/cm3 (Lead is 11.34
gm/cm3, and steel is 7.86 gm/cm3). More mass means greater ability to upset
the rivet head with fewer blows from the rivet gun. With a 4X gun and my
tungsten bar on a 3/32" rivet, I find it takes about 3 "taps" to fully set
the rivet.
Jack Phillips
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Boatright
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2011 11:28 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Van's Tool Kits
Thanks to everyone for the info so far. It has been wonderful. I am curious
(and keep in mind, I've never riveted before) about the tungsten bucking
bar. What makes it so special?
Ben
J. Ben Boatright
-----
benboatright@gmail.com
-----
Member, AOPA and EAA
On Wed, Jun 15, 2011 at 11:06 AM, Jack Phillips <pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
wrote:
I agree with everything Kelly said, particularly about buying used tools
from ebay. I bought a used Chicago Pneumatic squeezer for $300, but by the
time I paid to have it overhauled so it would work properly I could have
bought a new one.
I also agree completely about the tungsten bucking bar. It just makes
EVERYTHING easier. If I lost mine, I'd pay another $110 and would not buck
a single rivet until I had it replaced.
Jack Phillips
#40610 Wings (ailerons)
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2011 10:38 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Van's Tool Kits
Two more good sources, Brown and Yard store. I wouldn't buy tools off
Ebay unless you really know what you are getting and who you are dealing
with. Warranty is important for the more expensive items. Refurbished is
fine for the expensive items, from reputable source. I had one tool
break, called Bob Avery...said he hadn't seen one break before, but he
would put a new one in the mail, and in a few days I had the replacement.
I would say once you have a tungsten bucking bar, you won't use any
others except where the tungsten won't fit or give correct angle.
Clecos....most are generic and okay, but for a few cents more, high
quality clecos are worth it. IIRC the ones I got from Avery were better
than most of the generic I have. Grip better, smoother action.
On 6/15/2011 7:15 AM, Pascal wrote:
> Ben;
> Time is money! If you are willing to take time building your tool kit
> it can be done for far less than any kit out there.
> To start- my pneumatic drill (Sioux) Brown Tools
> 2x/3x recoilless riveter- ebay
> Pneumatic squeezer- The Yard Store
> All other tools was a combo of Brown and Yard Store. Brown gave me a
> discount for spending so much with them.
> I built my arsenal for less than $1000. Every tool worked without an
> issue for the complete build. Chose ebay carefully and you'll get
> great tools for a great price.
> If you need new, find a vendor, call them and ask what you need for a
> RV-10.
> Last comment- get a tungsten bar or steel, I never used any of the
> bucking bars, scrap steel bars worked great for me.
> Pascal
> *From:* Ben Boatright <mailto:benboatright@gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 15, 2011 5:46 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Van's Tool Kits
> All,
>
> I'm looking to purchase an RV-10 empennage kit within the next month
> or so. In the meantime, I'm trying to get my workshop set up. I've
> looked at many of the different tool kits on the market (Aircraft
> Spruce, Avery's, etc.). There does seem to be some variation with
> regards to the kit contents and I'm just wondering which kit might be
> the "better" kit.
>
> One advantage I do have is that I'm not too far from Aircraft Spruce
> East, so I could pickup a kit there (though, I would have to pay sales
> tax).
>
> I would welcome any feedback that anyone might provide.
>
> Thanks,
> Ben
>
> PS: I'm also open to purchasing used tools if anyone has any available
> or suggestions for where I might look.
> *
>
>
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Message 18
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| Subject: | Wheel Fairing/ Plane Leveling with Laser |
Hoist=2C use a lot of little people or rent some Egyptians the kind that bu
ilt the pyramids.
=0A
RV10-List Wheel Fairing Plane Leveling with Laser=0A
http://cid-cf8c9ba70acf9731.skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?page=browse&resi
d=CF8C9BA70ACF9731!167&type=5&Bpub=SDX.Photos&Bsrc=Photomail&authke
y=84tm4QUAXOQ%24=0A
> Date: Wed=2C 15 Jun 2011 11:05:33 -0400
> From: Mauledriver@nc.rr.com
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wheel Fairing/ Plane Leveling with Laser
>
>
> Nice pics Bill S - that should help many.
>
> Regarding the laser - am I correct in thinking that you only used one
> axis of the laser for the wheel alignment?
>
> I chose to get a cheap=2C 1 axis=2C non-leveling laser (Sears) because I
> just couldn't understand what to do with all the functions. Turned out
> I did the hoist off the floor routine with the 1 axis and never wanted
> more for that job.
>
> However=2C I really like the laser now and will definitely be getting a
> self leveling 2 axis laser sometime after flying this thing. Wish I had
> it for my deck project. So I'm suggesting you can do the wheel
> alignment thing=2C hoisted or not hoisted=2C with the cheapest unit you c
an
> find. And using it will be a lot better than not having it. But a
> nicer unit has a lot of other uses on the plane and elsewhere if you are
> into it. Do you agree Bill S?
>
> Anyway=2C I really struggled with how to hoist the wing-less fuse and
> thought long and hard about how to avoid hoisting it. In the end=2C
> someone on the list described using pieces of lumber=2C vertically=2C und
er
> the spar stubs. With 1 small hydraulic jack=2C and some 1.5 x 1.5 oak
> sticks=2C along with a HF engine hoist=2C I got the whole thing up
> single-handed with surprising ease. So=2C another data point.
>
> Bill " moving the 'finished' plane to the airport Saturday for final
> assembly" Watson
> Durham NC
>
> On 6/14/2011 10:58 PM=2C Bill Schlatterer wrote:
> > Ok=2C I also did the unthinkable easy thing and it was on an RV7a. I di
d NOT
> > hoist the airplane up to put the wheel fairings on. I used a laser that
> > gives both vertical and horizontal planes to align the wheel centerline
s up
> > with the fairing and then with a line offset from the centerline of the
fuse
> > at front and back. I think these pictures will tell the story.
> >
> > Did both in an afternoon along with the leg fairings. It was possible t
o
> > get them absolutely parallel with the fuse centerline. Granted in fligh
t
> > they hang at a slightly different angle but the important thing is that
they
> > be parallel with the centerline airflow. I have zero rudder trim in cru
ise
> > and the ball is centered.
> >
> > That is a Stanley Vert/Hor Laser and is self leveling. Lots of uses in
> > setting the emp because it allows you to square two surfaces like the v
ert
> > stab and the Hor stab as well as checking for level in Hor mode.
> >
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Van's Tool Kits |
I'm still working on my tail kit.
I bought a bunch of tools used off of vansairforce.com -- this was
remarkably useful for getting random pieces of metal, unusual tools, and
bucking bars dirt cheap. Many of the tools I had no idea what to use for
until I hit a problem and noticed "hey, I have something in my box which
works great for this!"
My three favourite "non-standard" tools:
- Cleveland Main Squeeze. Vastly superior to any other hand squeezer I've
used -- it requires much less strength to set rivets, and I'm a wimp. This
also reduces the number of errors you'll have due to manhandling rivets.
(Personally, I tried both this and a pneumatic squeezer, and chose to spend
my limited budget on this tool first. If you have the money, buy both.)
- Tungsten bucking bar. See what everyone else said.
- An MDF box to put the compressor in. That darn thing is _loud_. Building
a box to put it in was a fun project, and also made working in my shop much
more pleasant.
The tool which confuses me most: a "dimpling hammer". I've never figured
out how this is any better than a standard $2 rubber mallet. So that's what
I use.
Chris
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Sold on whiskers |
I'm not an expert on this subject but...when splitting one nav antenna to a 430w
and a SL30, my avionics shop said the triplexer would not work very well.
As I understand it, the standard duplex and triplex splitters are a narrow band
splitters, which will work well for just the 430W but the SL30 needs the broadband
for its internal splitter. Garmin makes a special broadband splitter just
for the SL30 and now the new touch panel units also require it because they
also have an internal splitter (instead of the separate nav and G/S antenna inputs).
>From the broadband duplex splitter with one leg to the SL30, I will be using the
standard duplex splitter to feed the 430W nav and G/S inputs.
--------
Nick Leonard
RV-10 (40015) Finish
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343106#343106
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Van's Tool Kits |
Time to revisit the compressor issue. Absolutely avoid an "oil-less"
compressor. If you are building an RV-10 you can afford an oil bath
compressor, that uses a separate belt driven motor. Get at least a 25 gal-30
gal tank. There is a good Husky model at Home Despot for under $400, or
equivalent Kobalt model at Lowes. They are at least 10-15 db quieter than
the oil-less variety.
If you still need quieter, you can enclose the compressor intake and
exhaust, where most of the noise is located, or the whole motor/compressor
combination, but plan for some cooling air as that compressor will get hot.
On Wed, Jun 15, 2011 at 3:10 PM, Chris Colohan <rv10@colohan.com> wrote:
>
> - An MDF box to put the compressor in. That darn thing is _loud_.
> Building a box to put it in was a fun project, and also made working in my
> shop much more pleasant.
>
>
> Chris
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Sold on whiskers |
Nick, you have part numbers? I am unable to locate the broadband
splitter you mention on Garmin's site. Maybe the Garmin 013-00112-00
(http://www.avionicsmall.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=8183)?
If that is the one, then I assume from one output of that you are using
a standard diplexer such as CI-507
(http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/coupler507.php) to feed
the 430 and the other output direct to the SL-30?
Now I am curious as to David's mention above. David, what part # are
you using?
-Sean #40303
On 6/15/11 6:06 PM, Nick Leonard wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Nick Leonard"<nick@nleonard.com>
>
> I'm not an expert on this subject but...when splitting one nav antenna to a 430w
and a SL30, my avionics shop said the triplexer would not work very well.
>
> As I understand it, the standard duplex and triplex splitters are a narrow band
splitters, which will work well for just the 430W but the SL30 needs the broadband
for its internal splitter. Garmin makes a special broadband splitter
just for the SL30 and now the new touch panel units also require it because they
also have an internal splitter (instead of the separate nav and G/S antenna
inputs).
>
> > From the broadband duplex splitter with one leg to the SL30, I will be using
the standard duplex splitter to feed the 430W nav and G/S inputs.
>
> --------
> Nick Leonard
> RV-10 (40015) Finish
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343106#343106
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Wheel Fairing/ Plane Leveling with Laser |
Yup, only used the vertical on the wheel pants but found lots of uses for
the horizontal as well. While it is obviously a RV builder required tool I
am told you can do stuff like hang pictures, build decks, storage buildings,
etc.... Go figure :-) It is a
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-77-153-FatMax-Cross-Laser/dp/B0007SXI54/ref=pd
_bxgy_hi_text_b
Just Google self leveling laser and you will get a lot of hits. Probably a
lot better for a lot cheaper today!
Bill S
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Watson
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2011 10:06 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wheel Fairing/ Plane Leveling with Laser
Nice pics Bill S - that should help many.
Regarding the laser - am I correct in thinking that you only used one axis
of the laser for the wheel alignment?
I chose to get a cheap, 1 axis, non-leveling laser (Sears) because I just
couldn't understand what to do with all the functions. Turned out I did the
hoist off the floor routine with the 1 axis and never wanted more for that
job.
However, I really like the laser now and will definitely be getting a self
leveling 2 axis laser sometime after flying this thing. Wish I had it for
my deck project. So I'm suggesting you can do the wheel alignment thing,
hoisted or not hoisted, with the cheapest unit you can
find. And using it will be a lot better than not having it. But a
nicer unit has a lot of other uses on the plane and elsewhere if you are
into it. Do you agree Bill S?
Anyway, I really struggled with how to hoist the wing-less fuse and thought
long and hard about how to avoid hoisting it. In the end, someone on the
list described using pieces of lumber, vertically, under the spar stubs.
With 1 small hydraulic jack, and some 1.5 x 1.5 oak sticks, along with a HF
engine hoist, I got the whole thing up single-handed with surprising ease.
So, another data point.
Bill " moving the 'finished' plane to the airport Saturday for final
assembly" Watson Durham NC
On 6/14/2011 10:58 PM, Bill Schlatterer wrote:
> Ok, I also did the unthinkable easy thing and it was on an RV7a. I
> did NOT hoist the airplane up to put the wheel fairings on. I used a
> laser that gives both vertical and horizontal planes to align the
> wheel centerlines up with the fairing and then with a line offset from
> the centerline of the fuse at front and back. I think these pictures will
tell the story.
>
> Did both in an afternoon along with the leg fairings. It was possible
> to get them absolutely parallel with the fuse centerline. Granted in
> flight they hang at a slightly different angle but the important thing
> is that they be parallel with the centerline airflow. I have zero
> rudder trim in cruise and the ball is centered.
>
> That is a Stanley Vert/Hor Laser and is self leveling. Lots of uses
> in setting the emp because it allows you to square two surfaces like
> the vert stab and the Hor stab as well as checking for level in Hor mode.
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Sold on whiskers |
Sean,
I don't have the info on the part I have installed, here at home. The
original triplexer(?) I had installed never worked very well.
Sarasota Avionics did some work for me a couple of years ago and
installed the unit I have now. I will get the info in the next day or
two and post it on this forum.
David Maib
40559
Flying
On Jun 15, 2011, at 7:46 PM, Sean Stephens wrote:
> <sean@stephensville.com>
>
> Nick, you have part numbers? I am unable to locate the broadband
> splitter you mention on Garmin's site. Maybe the Garmin
> 013-00112-00 (http://www.avionicsmall.com/index.php?
> main_page=product_info&products_id=8183)?
>
> If that is the one, then I assume from one output of that you are
> using a standard diplexer such as CI-507 (http://
> www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/coupler507.php) to feed the
> 430 and the other output direct to the SL-30?
>
> Now I am curious as to David's mention above. David, what part #
> are you using?
>
> -Sean #40303
>
> On 6/15/11 6:06 PM, Nick Leonard wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Nick Leonard"<nick@nleonard.com>
>>
>> I'm not an expert on this subject but...when splitting one nav
>> antenna to a 430w and a SL30, my avionics shop said the triplexer
>> would not work very well.
>>
>> As I understand it, the standard duplex and triplex splitters are
>> a narrow band splitters, which will work well for just the 430W
>> but the SL30 needs the broadband for its internal splitter.
>> Garmin makes a special broadband splitter just for the SL30 and
>> now the new touch panel units also require it because they also
>> have an internal splitter (instead of the separate nav and G/S
>> antenna inputs).
>>
>> > From the broadband duplex splitter with one leg to the SL30, I
>> will be using the standard duplex splitter to feed the 430W nav
>> and G/S inputs.
>>
>> --------
>> Nick Leonard
>> RV-10 (40015) Finish
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343106#343106
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Sold on whiskers |
Well if Tim comes up with the part # while flying around the SFRA, I'll truly be
impressed.
cjay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343140#343140
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