Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:22 PM - Re: Primary Comm Radio (johngoodman)
2. 04:41 PM - Re: High EGT readings (Bob Turner)
3. 05:28 PM - Re: Bose A20 Headset - NR Power Button - Panel Power (Tim Olson)
4. 05:52 PM - Re: Re: Primary Comm Radio (David)
5. 06:12 PM - Re: Bose A20 Headset - NR Power Button - Panel Power (Robin Marks)
6. 06:49 PM - Re: Bose A20 Headset - NR Power Button - Panel Power (Matt Dralle)
7. 07:19 PM - Re: FAA and AD notices (Kelly McMullen)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Primary Comm Radio |
Just a quick comment - I have a 430W and an SL-40. Aerotronics put together the
panel and they set up the comm flip flop on the stick to change the PS9000EX,
not the radios. I hadn't thought about it until now, but if you're listening
to two different frequencies, those are most likely the ones you want to transmit
on.
John
--------
#40572 First flight was on 25 June, 2011
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=349052#349052
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: High EGT readings |
I've seen an engine monitor pick up a weak mag or plug that passed the usual runup
check. Full power operation is more demanding.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=349064#349064
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Bose A20 Headset - NR Power Button - Panel Power |
As promised, I'm reporting back...
Let me just say: "Don't try this at home, kids"
Hooo boy what a project! Getting it all apart isn't bad, but
I'd say that this was probably the single toughest soldering
job I've EVER done in my life. I have a very good iron, with a
very long pencil point tip iron that is practically a needle,
so I have the equipment. I tried using some strands of
solid copper from CAT5/Cat6 cable.
It took me many many tries to be able to get in there with a
reliable connection of the wire to the solder pad without
getting near the top silver holdown switch top. Every time
I missed I had to clean it all back up again. Once I got
the wires hooked to the switch, I got the capacitor
soldered in to the wires. Then I assembled it.
...and assembled it, and assembled it. There are many many
steps to getting everything lined up just right so that you
can successfully reassemble things. I forgot the screws
a couple times, didn't line up the wires under the battery
area a couple times. Had both my black and red battery
wires break off the board once, and when I did finally
get it all back together, the external button action wasn't
perfect anymore. This is because now the button doesn't
just push in on the switch anymore, it bottoms out on the
hook-up wire that's near the switch. So, it doesn't make
that nice "click" when you hit it. To make matters worse,
when I put batteries in it and tested it, it would turn on,
stay for about 1 second, and then turn off. I can't for
the life of me see where/how I actually did anything
that caused harm when all was said and done, but it just
plain was so micro-scale that without a very good large
magnifying lens you just plain won't even see the defect
or see to do the job. The task requires something good
to hold the board steady, a good light, and a good
magnifying lens.
So, after messing with ONE of the headsets for at least
2 or more hours, and seeing what happened, I ended up
taking it apart AGAIN and removing all of the stuff,
and doing like 3 more reassembly sessions to get it all
together, and then yes, it still didn't work properly.
So today, I sent it back and they are sending me
a new one.
While I applaud Matt for figuring it out, and showing
how to do it, I personally just can't recommend that
someone do it themselves. If Matt will do it for $100,
that is a real bargain. I spent hours at it, and most
likely was the cause of the damage. I'd be tempted
to try again, knowing all that I know now and
using that to be even more diligent, but my wife who
was right there helping was also saying..."wow,
I don't know if this is worth it..." Had the button
action been perfect, I'd probably try it again. I'm
pretty good with small soldering things, but this one
kind of kicked my butt. :)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 7/10/2011 12:55 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Matt Dralle<dralle@matronics.com>
>
> Very cool! I'm glad to hear others feel that same way and can utilize the procedure.
Let me know how it works for you.
>
> Matt
>
> -
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
> http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
> Status: 170+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
>
>
> At 08:07 PM 7/9/2011 Saturday, you wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson<Tim@myrv10.com>
>>
>> Matt, you rock! That's awesome that you found a way to do
>> this. I'll definitely be taking at least one of mine
>> apart and trying this. If it goes well, I'll do 'em all.
>> It's the single thing I wish they had a dip switch for
>> that you could enable, and you got the answer. Thanks
>> for the great write-up.
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>> On 7/9/2011 8:38 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Matt Dralle<dralle@matronics.com>
>>>
>>>
>>> Dear Listers,
>>>
>>> I bought a couple pairs of the new Bose A20's for the RV-8 and they
>>> are very nice. NR is better than the Bose X's and they seem to fit
>>> my head a little better too.
>>>
>>> But I quickly discovered that with the A20's you now have to hit the
>>> NR Power button *every time* you start the aircraft even if you have
>>> them panel powered. The older Bose X headsets have a slide switch for
>>> the NR power and so you can just put the slide switch in the On
>>> position and not worry about it.
>>>
>>> I really didn't like having to turn the NR on all the time and having
>>> to remind my passengers about it, so I came up with a modification
>>> that will automatically turn the NR on when panel power is applied.
>>> Its pretty simple, but requires some special tools. Its completely
>>> self-contained inside the Control Module and works great. The
>>> modification is generally only for installations that are
>>> panel-powered, but you could do the modification to a unit that is
>>> normally battery powered with no adverse effect. With the
>>> modification, the NR Power button will work normally in battery power
>>> installations.
>>>
>>> I created web page on the procedure including step-by-step photos and
>>> instructions. Feedback is welcome.
>>>
>>> http://www.matronics.com/BoseA20AutoOnModification/
>>>
>>> Matt
>
> -
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
> http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
> Status: 170+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Primary Comm Radio |
Correct. That is a choice you have during the wiring/setup process.
The flip-flop can either switch between radios, or between primary
and standby freqs on one of the radios.
David Maib
40559
Flying
On Aug 9, 2011, at 5:18 PM, johngoodman wrote:
> <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
>
> Just a quick comment - I have a 430W and an SL-40. Aerotronics put
> together the panel and they set up the comm flip flop on the stick
> to change the PS9000EX, not the radios. I hadn't thought about it
> until now, but if you're listening to two different frequencies,
> those are most likely the ones you want to transmit on.
>
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 First flight was on 25 June, 2011
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=349052#349052
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Bose A20 Headset - NR Power Button - Panel Power |
We had a similar experience with the Belkin Bluetooth receiver. I ordered
the first one (clue?) and saw the 12V cigarette adapter and thought ahhhh
this should be easy to hard wire into the ships power. <<SNIP>> only to
discover that there are lots of electronics & brains in the power adapter.
No way to get the unit to work after the "big cut". There was a simple
solution though. Whip out the still warm credit card and order a second unit
for $90.00 and integrate a female power receiver instead. The bulky adapter
and extra cable is hidden in a vertical support structure out of sight.
My new policy is to only modify what I can willingly afford to replace.
Robin
On Tue, Aug 9, 2011 at 5:25 PM, Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com> wrote:
>
> As promised, I'm reporting back...
>
> Let me just say: "Don't try this at home, kids"
>
> Hooo boy what a project! Getting it all apart isn't bad, but
> I'd say that this was probably the single toughest soldering
> job I've EVER done in my life. I have a very good iron, with a
> very long pencil point tip iron that is practically a needle,
> so I have the equipment. I tried using some strands of
> solid copper from CAT5/Cat6 cable.
>
> It took me many many tries to be able to get in there with a
> reliable connection of the wire to the solder pad without
> getting near the top silver holdown switch top. Every time
> I missed I had to clean it all back up again. Once I got
> the wires hooked to the switch, I got the capacitor
> soldered in to the wires. Then I assembled it.
> ...and assembled it, and assembled it. There are many many
> steps to getting everything lined up just right so that you
> can successfully reassemble things. I forgot the screws
> a couple times, didn't line up the wires under the battery
> area a couple times. Had both my black and red battery
> wires break off the board once, and when I did finally
> get it all back together, the external button action wasn't
> perfect anymore. This is because now the button doesn't
> just push in on the switch anymore, it bottoms out on the
> hook-up wire that's near the switch. So, it doesn't make
> that nice "click" when you hit it. To make matters worse,
> when I put batteries in it and tested it, it would turn on,
> stay for about 1 second, and then turn off. I can't for
> the life of me see where/how I actually did anything
> that caused harm when all was said and done, but it just
> plain was so micro-scale that without a very good large
> magnifying lens you just plain won't even see the defect
> or see to do the job. The task requires something good
> to hold the board steady, a good light, and a good
> magnifying lens.
>
> So, after messing with ONE of the headsets for at least
> 2 or more hours, and seeing what happened, I ended up
> taking it apart AGAIN and removing all of the stuff,
> and doing like 3 more reassembly sessions to get it all
> together, and then yes, it still didn't work properly.
> So today, I sent it back and they are sending me
> a new one.
>
> While I applaud Matt for figuring it out, and showing
> how to do it, I personally just can't recommend that
> someone do it themselves. If Matt will do it for $100,
> that is a real bargain. I spent hours at it, and most
> likely was the cause of the damage. I'd be tempted
> to try again, knowing all that I know now and
> using that to be even more diligent, but my wife who
> was right there helping was also saying..."wow,
> I don't know if this is worth it..." Had the button
> action been perfect, I'd probably try it again. I'm
> pretty good with small soldering things, but this one
> kind of kicked my butt. :)
>
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
> do not archive
>
>
> On 7/10/2011 12:55 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Matt Dralle<dralle@matronics.com>
>>
>> Very cool! I'm glad to hear others feel that same way and can utilize the
>> procedure. Let me know how it works for you.
>>
>> Matt
>>
>> -
>> Matt Dralle
>> RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
>> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
>> http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
>> http://www.youtube.com/**MattsRV8 <http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8> -
>> Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
>> Status: 170+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
>>
>>
>> At 08:07 PM 7/9/2011 Saturday, you wrote:
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson<Tim@myrv10.com>
>>>
>>> Matt, you rock! That's awesome that you found a way to do
>>> this. I'll definitely be taking at least one of mine
>>> apart and trying this. If it goes well, I'll do 'em all.
>>> It's the single thing I wish they had a dip switch for
>>> that you could enable, and you got the answer. Thanks
>>> for the great write-up.
>>>
>>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>>> do not archive
>>>
>>>
>>> On 7/9/2011 8:38 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>>>
>>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Matt Dralle<dralle@matronics.com>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Dear Listers,
>>>>
>>>> I bought a couple pairs of the new Bose A20's for the RV-8 and they
>>>> are very nice. NR is better than the Bose X's and they seem to fit
>>>> my head a little better too.
>>>>
>>>> But I quickly discovered that with the A20's you now have to hit the
>>>> NR Power button *every time* you start the aircraft even if you have
>>>> them panel powered. The older Bose X headsets have a slide switch for
>>>> the NR power and so you can just put the slide switch in the On
>>>> position and not worry about it.
>>>>
>>>> I really didn't like having to turn the NR on all the time and having
>>>> to remind my passengers about it, so I came up with a modification
>>>> that will automatically turn the NR on when panel power is applied.
>>>> Its pretty simple, but requires some special tools. Its completely
>>>> self-contained inside the Control Module and works great. The
>>>> modification is generally only for installations that are
>>>> panel-powered, but you could do the modification to a unit that is
>>>> normally battery powered with no adverse effect. With the
>>>> modification, the NR Power button will work normally in battery power
>>>> installations.
>>>>
>>>> I created web page on the procedure including step-by-step photos and
>>>> instructions. Feedback is welcome.
>>>>
>>>> http://www.matronics.com/**BoseA20AutoOnModification/<http://www.matronics.com/BoseA20AutoOnModification/>
>>>>
>>>> Matt
>>>>
>>>
>> -
>> Matt Dralle
>> RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
>> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
>> http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
>> http://www.youtube.com/**MattsRV8 <http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8> -
>> Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
>> Status: 170+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Bose A20 Headset - NR Power Button - Panel Power |
Wow, Tim, that was quite an ordeal... ;-) Sorry to hear you had so many issues.
Both of my buttons still have that "click" feel after the update. You might have
gotten those little metal ears too hot and melted the internals of the push
button.
Did you use insulated wire for the connections between the switch and the capacitor?
That blue wirewrap wire I used is insulated. The Shack has little spools
of it. Perfect for this kind of stuff.
I bet the second time through you could do it perfectly. The second one I did
I think I did in 15 minutes. The first one took a lot longer, though.
My $100 offer is always available. :-)
Matt
At 05:25 PM 8/9/2011 Tuesday, you wrote:
>As promised, I'm reporting back...
>
>Let me just say: "Don't try this at home, kids"
>
>Hooo boy what a project! Getting it all apart isn't bad, but
>I'd say that this was probably the single toughest soldering
>job I've EVER done in my life. I have a very good iron, with a
>very long pencil point tip iron that is practically a needle,
>so I have the equipment. I tried using some strands of
>solid copper from CAT5/Cat6 cable.
>
>It took me many many tries to be able to get in there with a
>reliable connection of the wire to the solder pad without
>getting near the top silver holdown switch top. Every time
>I missed I had to clean it all back up again. Once I got
>the wires hooked to the switch, I got the capacitor
>soldered in to the wires. Then I assembled it.
>...and assembled it, and assembled it. There are many many
>steps to getting everything lined up just right so that you
>can successfully reassemble things. I forgot the screws
>a couple times, didn't line up the wires under the battery
>area a couple times. Had both my black and red battery
>wires break off the board once, and when I did finally
>get it all back together, the external button action wasn't
>perfect anymore. This is because now the button doesn't
>just push in on the switch anymore, it bottoms out on the
>hook-up wire that's near the switch. So, it doesn't make
>that nice "click" when you hit it. To make matters worse,
>when I put batteries in it and tested it, it would turn on,
>stay for about 1 second, and then turn off. I can't for
>the life of me see where/how I actually did anything
>that caused harm when all was said and done, but it just
>plain was so micro-scale that without a very good large
>magnifying lens you just plain won't even see the defect
>or see to do the job. The task requires something good
>to hold the board steady, a good light, and a good
>magnifying lens.
>
>So, after messing with ONE of the headsets for at least
>2 or more hours, and seeing what happened, I ended up
>taking it apart AGAIN and removing all of the stuff,
>and doing like 3 more reassembly sessions to get it all
>together, and then yes, it still didn't work properly.
>So today, I sent it back and they are sending me
>a new one.
>
>While I applaud Matt for figuring it out, and showing
>how to do it, I personally just can't recommend that
>someone do it themselves. If Matt will do it for $100,
>that is a real bargain. I spent hours at it, and most
>likely was the cause of the damage. I'd be tempted
>to try again, knowing all that I know now and
>using that to be even more diligent, but my wife who
>was right there helping was also saying..."wow,
>I don't know if this is worth it..." Had the button
>action been perfect, I'd probably try it again. I'm
>pretty good with small soldering things, but this one
>kind of kicked my butt. :)
>
>
>Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>do not archive
>
>
>On 7/10/2011 12:55 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Matt Dralle<dralle@matronics.com>
>>
>>Very cool! I'm glad to hear others feel that same way and can utilize the procedure.
Let me know how it works for you.
>>
>>Matt
>>
>>-
>>Matt Dralle
>>RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
>>http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
>>http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
>>http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
>>Status: 170+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
>>
>>
>>At 08:07 PM 7/9/2011 Saturday, you wrote:
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson<Tim@myrv10.com>
>>>
>>>Matt, you rock! That's awesome that you found a way to do
>>>this. I'll definitely be taking at least one of mine
>>>apart and trying this. If it goes well, I'll do 'em all.
>>>It's the single thing I wish they had a dip switch for
>>>that you could enable, and you got the answer. Thanks
>>>for the great write-up.
>>>
>>>Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>>>do not archive
>>>
>>>
>>>On 7/9/2011 8:38 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Matt Dralle<dralle@matronics.com>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Dear Listers,
>>>>
>>>>I bought a couple pairs of the new Bose A20's for the RV-8 and they
>>>>are very nice. NR is better than the Bose X's and they seem to fit
>>>>my head a little better too.
>>>>
>>>>But I quickly discovered that with the A20's you now have to hit the
>>>>NR Power button *every time* you start the aircraft even if you have
>>>>them panel powered. The older Bose X headsets have a slide switch for
>>>>the NR power and so you can just put the slide switch in the On
>>>>position and not worry about it.
>>>>
>>>>I really didn't like having to turn the NR on all the time and having
>>>>to remind my passengers about it, so I came up with a modification
>>>>that will automatically turn the NR on when panel power is applied.
>>>>Its pretty simple, but requires some special tools. Its completely
>>>>self-contained inside the Control Module and works great. The
>>>>modification is generally only for installations that are
>>>>panel-powered, but you could do the modification to a unit that is
>>>>normally battery powered with no adverse effect. With the
>>>>modification, the NR Power button will work normally in battery power
>>>>installations.
>>>>
>>>>I created web page on the procedure including step-by-step photos and
>>>>instructions. Feedback is welcome.
>>>>
>>>>http://www.matronics.com/BoseA20AutoOnModification/
>>>>
>>>>Matt
>>
>>-
>>Matt Dralle
>>RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
>>http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
>>http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
>>http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
>>Status: 170+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>Matt G Dralle | Matronics | 581 Jeannie Way | Livermore | CA | 94550
>925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
>http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: FAA and AD notices |
John,
I searched EAA website for anything on this and came up blank. Has anyone
got a link to what was actually said or copy of the announcement??
Kelly
On Thu, Jul 28, 2011 at 5:59 AM, John Cox <johnwcox@pacificnw.com> wrote:
> Some time today, Dorinda Baker from the Head FAA legal office will make a
> formal announcement clarifying the subject of AD notices and whether they
> affect Experimental Builders. The answer has always been under contention.
> The Legal Eagles will retain the right to assert ADs for public safety but
> the answer is going to be official. NO & Yes, No AD notes will not be
> required to be complied with by Experimental Builders. The FAA is staying
> out of the fray. Yes, if that builder installs an Certified Engine and
> wants to keep his/her options open to sell it in the future as a
> "Certified", then owners of certified need to keep & maintain compliance.
>
> For those who wanted to hear NO - "its coming". For others who deal with
> maintaining a Certified Engine/Prop or Appliance.... they will need to read
> between the lines and continue to comply with issued ADs to the Certificated
> Airframe Manufacturers requirements.
>
> Don't ya just love the new and leaner FAA.
>
> John Cox #40600 from the ground & behind the scenes at OSH '11
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
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